VENICE CITY GUIDE ®
MAY 2020
W W W.WHERE-VENICE.COM
GRAND TOUR
Discover & Enjoy Italy
A selection of the best destinations devoted to beauty and fine dining
吃喝玩乐 尽在这里
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
BENVENUTI IN ITALIA
YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
Siamo qui da secoli. Vi aspettiamo.
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Messaggio dal Paese più bello del mondo.
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Il settore del turismo ha sofferto più di tutti della recente pandemia. I lockdown, le chiusure Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®
dei confini, il crollo del reddito disponibile, nel momento in cui scrivo potrebbero ispirare solo depressione. Ma stiamo invece parlando dell’Italia.
La meta preferita per secoli dai viaggiatori. Infinite volte sfidata da guerre, carestie, epidemie e infinite volte tornata ad essere il Paese più
PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE
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Pierfrancesco Coreno pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com MANAGING EDITOR
Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com CONTRIBUTORS
desiderato al mondo.
Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli
Dopo ogni notte ci sarà una alba, e a ben guardare i segni possono
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essere già colti anche oggi. L’analisi dei big data di internet mostra l’Italia come prima destinazione ricercata in milioni di interrogazioni online. L’offerta del nostro Paese è immensamente vasta per tesori naturali e culturali. Siamo il Paese con il maggior numero di Siti UNESCO Patrimonio dell’Umanità. Se fossimo un museo saremmo il museo più grande del mondo. Se fossimo un ristorante quello con la cucina più apprezzata. Se fossimo una spiaggia quella meglio attrezzata
ICONOGRAPHY
CARTOGRAPHY
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al mondo.
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Montagne, foreste e boschi, laghi, colline paesaggi unici contraddistinguono l’Italia. Ma tutto questo poi è reso unico dalla gente. Meglio, dalle genti. Per millenni la penisola fu meta di migrazioni e popoli del nord o del mare si installarono apportando nuove culture che andarono a creare l’Italia. E adesso caro visitatore ti aspettiamo orgogliosi della nostra Italia, accoglienti, e decisi a offrirti una esperienza unica che nei secoli milioni di viaggiatori hanno ricercato. Dopo la pestilenza del Medio Evo arrivò il Rinascimento. Where® è qui per svolgere la sua missione di guidare i viaggiatori
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Maria Granata maria.granata@proedimedia.com CUSTOMER SERVICES
Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)
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WELCOME TO ITALY We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you. A message from the most beautiful country in the world. The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the global economy – the tourism industry. The current lockdown, closing of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this editorial could be very depressing, but remember we’re talking about Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II
Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world. Every night is followed by a new dawn, and if you look carefully you will see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions
Venice
of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best equipped in the world. Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is
Florence
made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in the creation of Italy. So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember
Turin
the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance! Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance. We look forward to seeing you soon! The Publisher
Rome
>> To check the opening of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com
WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR
Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”, Milan
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Virtual Tours of Italian Museums What can you do when at home for the Coronavirus lockdown? Why not visit a museum in a new way, with a virtual tour, for example. We've rounded up a selection of the Milanese and Italian museums virtually opening their doors to the public thanks to their websites and official social media accounts. BY GIULIA MINERO
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ven during these days at home facing the COVID-19 emergency, the culture never stops. Institutions, public and private museums and art galleries are all united to provide their visitors with the chance to explore their collections, the featured exhibitions – which are all closed to the public – and even enjoy site-specific events and special activities. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you'll be spoilt for choice. Enjoy your visit!
Pinacoteca di Brera MILAN
Those who are at home for the safety measures to prevent the spread of COVID-19 or people who just would like to visit a museum and don’t have the chance to do it can take advantage of a new concept of museum visits powered by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery). On the art gallery’s website, lovers of art can discover over 669 works of art thanks to the online collection. Each masterpiece features a caption, a description of the context in which it was created, the used technique and some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and religious images as if they were discovering them inside the museum. >> Check the online collection at pinacotecabrera.org
Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan
Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” MILAN
The Museum is still working to share its most precious treasures with its visitors. #storieaportechiuse engages visitors of all ages in behind-the-scenes tours, explorations of the collections and archives, science news, educational lab activities... with videos, pictures and unpublished documents. Most of the contents are published in Italian in order to reach more effectively the local audiences. Yet you can still enjoy the beautiful pictures and fascinating visual material provided in the program. Here is the daily schedule, every week: Monday: Stories from the Museum’s deposits and behindthe-scenes work. Tuesday: Interactive workshops and informal education. Wednesday: Science and technology news. Thursday: Tales from the Museum’s history. Friday: Items from the Museum’s archives and libraries. Saturday: Virtual
Reality stories. Sunday: Leonardo da Vinci. Other online activities are held on the official Facebook, Instagram and YouTube accounts. >> Check the online activities at www.museoscienza.org
Fondazione Prada MILAN
During the lockdown connected to the COVID-19 issue, Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to various online services enabling visitors to fully discover the foundation and its heritage straight from their homes. According to this new concept of multimedia experience, the foundation’s website, as well as the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo and YouTube accounts become the ideal stage to share ideas and explore new ways to experiment with culture. Thanks to the “Glossary” section, for instance, the various projects connected to art, cinema, dance, music, architecture and philosophy w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3
WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR
Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice
Museo Egizio, Turin
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is still active. Daily at 5pm artists, designers and architects can be seen and heard live on the official Instagram account (@triennalemilano). Moreover, the official website enables visitors to enjoy interviews, podcasts and highlights on the world of art and culture, as well as videos and images from the historical archives of the Triennale. Other online activities are held on the official Facebook and YouTube accounts. >> Check the online activities at www.triennale.org
Museo Egizio The Vatican Museums, Rome
Live streamings Virtually strolling through gardens, discovering historical dwellings and their precious objects is now possibile thanks to FAI – Fondo Ambiente Italiano. The Italian National Trust has indeed powered its brad-new #Italiamimanchi online project enabling visitors to enjoy some of its most widely-appreciated properties thanks to live streamings on the official FAI account on Facebook, Instagram and on the official YouTube channel. >> Read more at https://www.wheremilan.com/news/ italiamimanchi-online-tours-fai/
launched from 1993 up to our days become the protagonists of an ideal dialogue of art thanks to images, videos, texts and extracts from catalogues. Conversely, the Inner Views initiative has been created to substitute a real visit to the spaces of the Fondazione and to enable visitors to discover the three featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, “Storytelling” and “K” – thanks to an online learning method based on interviews, images, videos and focus on the featured masterpieces. A more complete vision of art is provided by the Outer Views section, focusing on the contribution of works of art from the Fondazione Prada on loan to other important Italian and foreign institutions. >> Check the online collection at www.fondazioneprada.org
Triennale Milano MILAN
Though Milan's most known design museum is closed, its Triennale Decameron program 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
TURIN
The second largest Egyptian Museum in the world after the one in Cairo, the Museo Egizio in Turin can be enjoyed thanks to special guided tours. Led by the museum's director – Mr. Christian Greco – and available for free on the official Youtube account, the 8-minute tours help visitors discover insightful highlights on the featured findings. Other multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account (@museoegizio). >> Check the online activities at museoegizio.it
Galleria degli Uffizi FLORENCE
The MuseoCity association, together with Google Arts&Culture has introduced a new way of visiting the precious museum in Florence and its sections thanks to a selection of high-resolution images of the featured works, which include masterpieces by great Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo,
Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section on the official website allows guests to enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue between art from the past and the various cultures of the world. >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it
Musei Vaticani The Vatican Museums ROME
The various halls of the Vatican Museums in Rome – which include 26 sections and museums-within-the-museum, among which the Stanze di Raffaello (Raffaello's Rooms) and the Sistine Chapel – can be admired thanks to 360-degree virtual tours. The tours are available online on the official website and also enable visitors to enjoy a close-up view of the thousands of works of art part of the Popes' collection gathered through the centuries. Videos and other multimedia contents can be discovered on the official YouTube channel. >> Check the online activities at www.museivaticani.va
Peggy Guggenheim Collection VENICE
The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues its educational mission with weekly e-news and social media programs that include innovative content designed to share
anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience the museum through Art Talks dedicated to masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, Instagram @guggenheim_venice, Twitter @GuggenheimPGC >> Check the online collections at www.guggenheim-venice.it
Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte NAPLES
Thanks to the collaboration between MuseoCity and Google Arts&Culture, the cultural and artistic gems of the Capodimonte Museum near Naples can be admired online straight from home. The online Google Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent park. Over 203 paintings can be seen and analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera technology, while the special Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the masterpieces hosted in the museum and in the alleys of the Real Bosco. >> Check the online collections at www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it
PERSONAL STORIES. Drawing inspiration from Giovanni Boccaccio's “The Decameron”, about a group of young people who stayed outside Florence for ten days to escape the Black Plague in 1348 and took turns in telling stories to kill the time, Triennale Milano has invited artists, designers, architects, intellectuals, musicians, singers, writers, directors and journalists to "inhabit" Triennale Milano’s empty spaces in order to develop a personal story.
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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 6 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its
name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a
SEE MAP PAGE 42 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10
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LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11
pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7
THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9
THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7
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DUOMO 1 Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. It houses a number of interesting museums 8 W H E R E M V EI N L AI CNE I I MMAY AY 2020 2020
and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Map E4 CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. Map D4 PALAZZO REALE 5 Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently
one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square. Map F5 PIAZZA SCALA 6 The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala. In the center of the square is the monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4
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BRERA DISTRICT 8 This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces. Map F3 AMBROSIANA 9 The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 NAVIGLI 10 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years
ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots. Map E6 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Europe. Off Map SANT’AMBROGIO 12 One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried. Map E5 PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola
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districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi.the new BAMBiblioteca degli Alberi. Map S2 TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. Map D3 CIMITERO MONUMENTALE 15 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras. Map E1 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9
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DUOMO AND CUPOLA Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1
CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3
BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2
PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the
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square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire
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SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10 MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12
Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7
PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14 SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11
[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]
Top in Turin 10
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MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 12 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
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artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist JeanFrançois Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2
headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4
MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3
PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5
PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the
VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when
SEE MAP PAGE 48 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10
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MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 11
ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant-garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12
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BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13
King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by Umberto Mastroianni. 7
VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT
REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13
[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]
Top in Rome
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COLOSSEUM 1 The Colosseum is the indestructible symbol of the Eternal City and the largest amphitheatre ever built. It was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as mock sea battles, wild animal hunts, executions, and reenactments of famous battles. Map F4
the Four Rivers, which encompasses an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of four river gods. Other two magnificent fountains decorate the piazza: the fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain of the Neptune. Map D3
ROMAN FORUM 2 The heart of Ancient Rome. See the Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, the House of the Vestal Virgins, and more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Map E/F4/5
PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4 The most famous staircase in the world, with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei Monti church at the very top. At its feet is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia by Bernini from which begins Via Condotti, the most exclusive shopping street in Rome. Map E2
PIAZZA NAVONA 3 One of the most beautiful squares in Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of
TREVI FOUNTAIN 5 Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, celebrating the triumph of waters
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with the imperious statue of Oceano dominating the scene. Make sure to toss a coin or two into its famous waters to assure your return to Rome. Map E3 SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6 The greatest church in the world with art masterpieces including Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue dome dominates the grandiose scene, while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the solemn entrance to the Vatican and the Christendom. Map B3 VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7 The most important museum of Rome with an incomparable collection of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, Renaissance, and baroque art; works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and
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many more. The Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo is regarded as one of the major artistic accomplishments of human civilization. Map B2 PANTHEON 8 The city only architecturally intact monument from classical times, constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior measures 43.4 m in width and height. Light and air (and even rain) enter through the opening at the top through which the sky pervade the temple. Map D3 CASTEL SANT’ANGELO 9 Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, transformed into a majestic fortress centuries later, now a museum. It is joined to the Vatican by the famous
Passetto, a passageway used to be a secret escape for the popes. Map C2/3 MOUTH OF TRUTH 0 It is a marble mask which stands against the left wall of Santa Maria in Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector from another time, it attracts thousands of visitors who audaciously stick their hand in the mouth. According to legend, a liar who puts his hand in the mouth will have it bitten off. Map D5 CAPITOLINE HILL ! One of the seven hills of Rome, boasting a piazza, designed by Michelangelo with a bronze copy of the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius in the middle. On the highest
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summit of the Campidoglio is located the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, reachable by a steep staircase counting 124 steps. Map D4 PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 12 It is an enormous square architecturally superb and perfectly symmetrical, dominated by an Egyptian obelisk and enriched by important churches such as the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by Caravaggio and Pinturicchio. Map D1 VILLA BORGHESE 13 The most celebrated and easily accessible villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill. Take a walk through its intricate gardens or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del Lago. Map D1 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 15
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE
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1 January NEW YEAR’S EVE CONCERT AT LA FENICE Traditional concert at the Gran Teatro La Fenice. The concert is broadcasted live and followed by audiences from all over Italy.
May-November THE BIENNALE The Biennale kicks off with a mega event dedicated to art (odd-numbered years) and architecture (even-numbered years). Running alongside the two main events at the Giardini and the Arsenale, are city-wide exhibitions, events and installations. The Dance (June), Theatre (July-August), Film (AugustSeptember) and Music (September-October) Biennali take place from May to November. VOGALONGA A 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs.
6 September REGATA STORICA / HISTORIC REGATTA One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft.
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER HOMO FABER. CRAFTING A MORE HUMAN FUTURE (10 September - 11 October 2020) A bi-annual showcase of the finest European craftsmanship at the Fondazione Giorgio Cini (Island of San Giorgio Maggiore). PH © HERMES
JANUARY
JUNE
6 January REGATA DELLE BEFANE Venice celebrates Epiphany with a funfilled regatta, complete with a fleet of men dressed as Father Christmases and Befane (witches). The procession leaves from the Grand Canal, loops around the ‘paleto’ (a stake in the water), and returns to the Rialto Bridge.
FEBRUARY VENICE CARNIVAL Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the world’s most thrilling open-air costume extravaganzas. The next edition will be held from Saturday 30 January 2021 to Tuesday 16 February 2021 (Il Ballo del Doge® on Saturday 13 February).
APRIL VENICE NIGHT TRAIL A 16km competitive night marathon that crosses through the centre of Venice. 25 April FESTA DI SAN MARCO/ FEAST OF ST. MARK In addition to being a national holiday, on this day Venetians also celebrate St. Mark, the patron saint of the city.
SALONE NAUTICO VENEZIA An open-air boat show staged at the Arsenale, the world’s most historic dockyards in the heart of the ‘Serenissima’.
JULY Third Sunday of July FESTA DEL REDENTORE / FEAST OF THE REDEEMER A parade of boats in the Giudecca canal, plus a dazzling fireworks display on Saturday evening.
SEPTEMBER End of August/beginning of September INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF CINEMATOGRAPHIC ART The Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale and runs at the Lido di Venezia. Founded in 1932, it is the oldest film festival in the world.
FESTA DELLA SENSA AND SPOSALIZIO DEL MARE Celebrations include regattas, a waterborne pageant and the Sposalizio del Mare (Marriage of the Sea). The event is held on Ascension weekend.
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THE VENICE GLASS WEEK
OCTOBER End of October VENICEMARATHON One of the most unique 42K road races in the world. It leaves from Villa Pisani (Brenta Riviera) and ends in Venice.
21 November FESTA DELLA SALUTE A religious festival dedicated to the Madonna della Salute, whose namesake church is located at Punta della Dogana, and connected to Santa Maria del Giglio via a temporary wooden pontoon bridge set up over the Grand Canal.
THE VENICE GLASS WEEK The most important international festival dedicated to glass art. Highlights include exhibitions, conferences, performances, workshops, themed dinners and guided tours, plus a slew of other events.
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NEW YEAR'S EVE AT LA FENICE
End of November TEATRO LA FENICE NEW SEASON Launch of the new season at Venice’s ancient opera house. The new calendar generally opens with an Italian opera.
DECEMBER 2020 CHRISTMAS CONCERT AT ST. MARK’S BASILICA The traditional Christmas Concert of the Fondazione Teatro La Fenice, featuring the Choir of the Marciana Chapel, is staged under the magnificent golden mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica.
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
GUIDE Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque “calli” of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where® brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends dedicated to colour and light-heartedness!
▼ CA' MACANA The decoration of this “Colombina Rosy 2” eye mask combines the warm tones of antique pink, red, and violet with gold leaf. Different areas are outlined by a raised golden stucco. A perfect item if you’re looking for an effective disguise that is not too flashy. www.camacana.com
▼ GIORGIO ARMANI These pumps in woven satin combine elegance and sensuality in a shoe that responds to the every requirement of today’s modern woman. Crafted in woven satin, they have a matching strap and profile. Available in red or powder pink. www.armani.com
▲ GUCCI This men’s leather belt, designed to be worn at the waist or around the hips, is defined by a Double G silver brass buckle with a shiny finish inspired by an archival design from the 1970s. www.gucci.com
▲ BORSALINO The “Panama Quito Sophie Pattern” in two-tone handwoven Ecuadorian straw tells the younger generations about the 1980s, a decade buzzing with creativity reinterpreted through the archives of the Italian company. www.borsalino.com
▲ CHANEL A solid fragrance in a unique format. The four “Chance” Perfume Pencils, featured in a discovery set, offer a new way to tempt fate. The ideal on-the-go solution for use at any time of day. www.chanel.com
▲ NARDI In Nardi’s beautifully crafted jewelry, diamonds often converse with semi-precious stones or innovatively-shaped metals. These “Mosaico” earrings in pink gold set with amethysts and cabochon cut garnets are an exquisite example of the brand’s classic contemporary designs. www.nardi-venezia.com
► EMILIO PUCCI The coloured prints by the historic Florentine fashion house are continuously imbued with new, colourful patterns. This leather and printed straw bag features a triumph of colours and geometric shapes that interpret the spirit of spring to perfection. www.pucci.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17
WHERE NOW | UNIQUE
gondola
All about the
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8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century. Private gondolas no longer exist and − the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 − metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending
a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to be − gondoliers. The first female gondolier – or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).
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Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from
WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
The allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver.
Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich.
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BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO
Bassano del Grappa
Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. In terms
Villa del Palladio, Vicenza
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A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY, ART AND NATURE Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. The monumental Villa Cornaro in Piombino Dese, near Padua, is one of the several works by Andrea Palladio (1551-52).
Verona: founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one
Trieste, Castle of Miramare
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One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.
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of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence.
Verona of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: the port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the
late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Memories of the ancient Rome In the Castello sestiere, on Ruga Giuffa, you can visit a truly unique ‘palazzo’ whose interior is reminiscent of the splendours of ancient Rome.
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uilt in the 16th century by members of a noble Venetian family, Palazzo Grimani is a testament to its owners’ passion for archaeology. The Grimanis built the palace to house their collection of more than 150 ancient statues, creating a place that harkens back to the time of ancient Rome. For this reason, the ‘palazzo’ differs from the typical architectural style of Venetian residences, even boasting a Roman-style courtyard. The Grimani family, whose ancestors include a Doge and a bishop accused of heresy, hired the best artists of the period to build their ‘home’ and create a unique masterpiece inspired by ancient Rome. Its decorated ceilings recall the frescoes of domus romana: grotesques inspired by those unearthed in the 16th century at Rome’s famous 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
Domus Aurea and mythological scenes frescoed on the walls. The palace’s most admired space, the Tribuna, has niches where the Grimani’s collection of ancient sculptures used to stand. It was something of a wonder room that was flooded with light from a central lantern. Until May 2021, the must-visit exhibition ‘Domus Grimani 1594-2019. La collezione di sculture classiche a palazzo dopo quattro secoli’ celebrates the temporary return to Palazzo Grimani of the collection of classic statues and furnishings that belonged to Giovanni Grimani, the Patriarch of Aquileia. The exhibition takes visitors through a series of rooms (the Camaron d'Oro, the Sala a Fogliami and the Antitribuna) to the Tribuna, created to host more than 130 of the collection’s most important sculptures.
>> www.palazzogrimani.org Castello, 4858 (Ramo Grimani)
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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.
Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection
of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM IN HER GONDOLA, 1968. PHOTO TONY VACCARO / TONY VACCARO ARCHIVES
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Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www.madonnadellorto. org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant
increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)
Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Where you want, when you want. Valdobbiadene Tour Recently listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, this
region hosts the famous Prosecco vineyards and grapes used to make Prosecco wine. This
excursion is recommended for lovers of food and wine and includes a tour of a
local winery with a wine tasting session.
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24 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)
Scala Contarini del Bovolo
This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4
YOUR 1936® YOUR TRAVEL TRAVELING ING COMPANION COMPANION SINCE 1936®
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San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and®an adjoining museum
(see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits M AonG the A Z little I N E island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, WHERE ITALIA SRL WHERE SRL and theITALIA entire complex, which holds a number Via ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1. 20154 20154 Milano. Milano. marvelous including a maze, is worth T:of 02 349951 Fax T: 02 349951 -surprises Fax 02 02 33107015 33107015 info@where-venice.com visiting. This small island, that is a part of the info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's PUBLISHER PUBLISHER ANDEDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-IN-CHIEF square, is AND separated from the Giudecca by the Andrea Jarach Andrea island Jarachof La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio lagoon (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5 EDITORIAL EDITORIAL
Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings
WELCOME VENICE WELCOME TO VENICE
have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).
Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural
FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.
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AlessandraFinzi Finzi(redazione@where-venice.com) (redazione@where-venice.com) important point, almost directly opposite the Alessandra Piazza SanEDITORIAL Marco, where Grand Canal MAGAZINE STAFF the Carey Bernitz, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz,
empties intoRomena the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, ElenaBinda, Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, Elena Brugnerotto, www.rominvenice.com), P.K.Stefania Daviddi, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it Vida Simona P.K. Daviddi, ElenaSimona Peverata, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, delivering Venice from the plagueGiudici, of 1630. On MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Joy Lacanlale JoyNovember Lacanlale each year, a popular religious 21 WEB EDITORIALmarking STAFF Chiara Fonzi end (coordination), celebration, the official of the WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) Black Death, is held here. The church is also Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9amICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Dreamstime, 12noon/3pm-5.30pm. ICONOGRAPHY Archivio www.basilicasalutevenezia. Where® Italia, Italia, Shutterstock Shutterstock it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia - 2017 Vaporetto lineCITY 1 (Salute Map E5srl. CARTOGRAPHY MAP: File ©stop). Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban - www.urbanfile.org Original Map by Urban File www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Rachele Renna, landmark features 17Mailhac, monumental altars and Isa Faleschini, Paola ZannoniMarta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, is theZannoni largest church in the city. This medieval Paola (coordination "Welcome to Italy")
PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,style, SALEShouses, SUPPORTin church in Gothic-Venetian PRODUCTION & Paola CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT Grilli by COORDINATOR addition to two paintings Titian, the tombs COORDINATOR Paola Grilli and funerary monuments of numerous famous ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) 2750462. Vaporetto line 1,Maria 2, N Granata (San Tomà stop). HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Map D4 (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata
(maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Silvia Maggi Santi Giovanni e Paolo CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina REG. TRIB. No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 One ofMILANO the city’s most important examples Senatore WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010
of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Paolo isGRAPHICSCALVE considered theNo.Pantheon of Venice PRINTED BY SPAROC WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH because all the Venetian doges, starting from Although publisher has made effort to include copyright credits, in PRINTED BYthe GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every the 13th century, buried here, together with the event of there being anyare errors, oversights or omissions, we would LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published numerous other notable personages. www. in the next issue. Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we Santi would like to basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published e Paolo note: this might inGiovanni theITALY next issue. IN Where® is (Please also published in site Milan by be Where® in Italia, in Rome by Tourist srl on marked Venetian dialect as ‘sanMedia ZaniPolo’ and in Where® Naples by IES Comunicazione srl by IN ITALY in Milan the city’s maps).isT:also 041published 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srlstop). (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione Map WHERE® F3 VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS GIFT AVAILABLE ONLY IN TOP THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE FROM HOTELS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICEVISITOR IS AVAILABLEPUBLICATIONS ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE MORRIS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.
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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.
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ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.
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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.
BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION
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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.
It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.
In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.
VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 25
IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your
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heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione,
Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several
16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro. visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
PH © LUCA CERVESATO
Museo di San Marco
A green oasis in San Marco
Commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806 as a green space lying adjacent to the Procuratie Nuove and later embellished with greenhouses and neoclassical buildings, the Royal Gardens have been one of the three public parks located near St. Mark’s Square since 1920. The recent restoration enriched the park’s geometric structure with tall trees, shrubs, herbaceous and bulbous plants and creepers, planted to interact with the ecosystem of the Lagoon and to provide the city with a green lung. The gardens feature a 90-meter pergola which has retained its original shape in cast iron without a roof, a drawbridge to connect the gardens to the Procuratie and a large glass greenhouse. Located on the opposite side of the latter is another small greenhouse consisting of a central pavilion based on a circular plan connected to the ancient Cafehaus and to two other structures, one of which, The Human Garden, will be used for exhibitions and artistic events. www.venicegardensfoundation.org
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The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2
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Teatro La Fenice
A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA
Palazzo Ducale
Teatro La Fenice during the New Year's Eve concert There never has been such an evocative name. 230 years ago, the Phoenix, a legendary bird who rises from the ashes, gave its name to what is now the bestloved and most famous theatre in Venice. La Fenice’s history is particularly unusual. During the second half of the 18th century, the prestigious Teatro San Benedetto was partially destroyed by a fire, but rebuilt by the ‘Nobile Società dei Palchettisti’, the owners of the property. However, due to a judicial ruling by the Venier family, it was forced to sell the complex. This prompted the Association to build another larger, more luxurious theatre, which they called La Fenice as a tribute to its rebirth. In the 19th century, it staged numerous premieres of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. In 1836, a fire damaged part of the structure which was rebuilt within a year. In 1996, another devastating fire almost destroyed the theatre completely. However, despite the serious damage, La Fenice rose once again from the ashes, more splendid than ever before. If you want additional information about this legendary theatre and its ‘stars’, you can book a tour that allows access to its lavish interiors that are decorated with stuccoes and gilded ornamentation, including a
visit to the rooms hosting a permanent exhibition dedicated to Maria Callas. The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com www.teatrolafenice.it. Campo San Fantin, 1965. T: 041 786654. Map 4E
Maria Callas
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Suspended between fantasy and reality At Il Sogno di Valentina, a women’s boutique dedicated to all things Made in Italy, creations by young emerging artists, shoes and leather accessories take centre stage. By Giulia Minero
I
n the heart of Dorsoduro, just steps from the Ponte dell’Accademia, Valentina De Faveri’s dream came true when she opened her boutique/salotto offering selected collections of clothing and accessories by young, emerging designers. Valentina De Faveri worked for several well-known Italian designer labels, but for the Il Sogno di Valentina, her first boutique in the lagoon city, she chose a no-logo approach, opting instead for the creativity and excellence of Made in Italy. At her informal but beautifully curated space, featuring exposed beams, minimalist furnishings and pastel colours, women seeking style tips or a seasonal trend to customize their look, can choose from among either various alternate types of clothing, or clothing designed by emerging designers. 28 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
Women of all ages who enjoy enhancing their outfits with unconventional accessories can opt for a selection of high-quality shoes featuring classic or elegant lines, as well as the latest collections signed by Gabs. This is an Italian company, renowned for their contemporary, youthful design, and produces bags with futuristic colours, interpreted in diverse shapes using exclusively Italian leathers. If you need some inspiration, don’t worry! Valentina is always available to help you find a solution that bestsuits you, perhaps over a drink or a cup of coffee? >> Il Sogno di Valentina Dorsoduro, 1053/c (Calle Gambara) T: 347 9512575. Map D5 www.facebook.com/ilsognodivalentina
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
The
Guidelines CLOTHING
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS - Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 42-43. TRANSPORT - References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING - This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 31. Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge. All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.
MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical fourstorey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1(Rialto stop). Map F4
Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware. Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop. Map E4
DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www. TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
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CA LL E Venini DE LE Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. Chiesa ER BE Damiani C CORTE SECONDA DE AM An artistic space, where you rediscover all the is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE A reference SA point LL in the world of high-end NS O ON elegance and sophistication of the exquisite di Rialtoin 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the I jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable E CA di creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers ultimate symbol of love,Casa paving the way for Tiffany’s RA MP CAMPO styleCAMPIELLO and innovative technical solutions, including AN E Polo RIALTO from Murano. A prime location for passionate legendary collection Marco of engagement rings. Bold, DEL SOL d’illusione’ setting designed Fontego NUOVO to its ‘a lunette collectors, or those whose want to further their modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist dei Tedeschi highlight the brilliance of its stones. O N VA CA knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian RA creations C . D designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightlyLLE Sant’Aponal EL E D L D C www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle FON EL A .M ET TEG O GH Ponte coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made ARTINENGO PIOMBO glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by RU D. P Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 CAL LE G ALL SA di Rialto CORTE E Master craftsmen. Open IA Z Z CAMPO for those seeking N CAMPO Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Tiffany CORTE LIZa destination O spectacular DO TREVISAN ZA CAMPO APONAL DEL (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 ER SAN SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LP DEL VOLTOwww.venini.com. San PRESTRIN PIO Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily DE CAMPO X LE L SAN LIO CA Rialto Other location:CAMPIELLO Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Nardi Venezia LLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL IZ2 DE of a love of precious stones and a T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San FORMOSA A D(San Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line A combination A S FONDAMENTA SAN SILVESTRO C AN NI . DE L IO LG DEI PRETI ALIA CA Marco stops). Map F4 Marco-Vallaresso stop). ZZO Map F5 passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s LL Fontego CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
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CAL UL LE R IO LE D I high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, ND TER EL V À BA O LT IS O RB FRU RAMO Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service the epitome of sheer VenetianAelegance. Open TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. DE ORO CAMPIELLO The Merchant of Venice FO DE LA MADONNA Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Ca' Pesaro N The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO AM Santa Sofia entertainment, from the children’s adventure Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5 R eria Internazionale VALMARANA AD DEL PESTRIN CA brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in E A LL C O RT E play area to restaurants and cafés and even an San Lazzaro E NO d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro VA B ATA G I A R Venice’ is housed inCORTE the former, mid-17th century VA IS Salvadori CO dei Mendicanti annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash CORTESE CAMPIELLO apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in STELLA machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, babyCORTE NOVA La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and Venice in 1857.Apostoli A member of the World Federation Santi changing rooms, free parking, store map and CAMPIELLO ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori WIDMANN CAMPIELLO purchases its CAL guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair LE DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro B R IE ZI reflect the typical styleG Aof ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. LI diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on The Merchant of Venice is not Ospedale only a line of products S.Canciano SS. Giovanni by the highest diamond qualityC Acertificates. MPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the N C SAN CANCIANO N D R IO A L L E but a wider which includes a concept store L Eproject Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm.WIDMA Luterana SCU outlet village (admission in stores depending on O LE E LL in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: CA the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori CAMPO DELLA CAL and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open LE San Cassiano LAR AN PESCARIA and the World G A of Venice space at the Marco Polo Boutique Rolex: Piazza San 44. T: 041 C A N ZI G. G N Marco, daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via ALL DA SA IN A S A LI ZA Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Santa Maria R 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San IO CAMPO Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from DE Basilica SAN CASSAN dei Miracoli CAMPO DE LA Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 dei I MI 1 or 2 Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line R Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA C A LL Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (Campo San OL LL (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 E DE CAMPO CAMPO ED I L FO Grisostomo CA EC RNO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 LE C ED MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A ST E
SCHIA
VONI
[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORE T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS— Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3
ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINE—www.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4
DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4
The “FURLA Sleek” crossbody bag is made of grained leather with an Arco print. The model is characterized by a rounded shape with a practical zipper closure. Available in light pink, black, talco (white), cognac and fuoco (red).
MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORI—www.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4
JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5
SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4
CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5
LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5
SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4
CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3
MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5
TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5
DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5
MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5
TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5
DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5
MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5
VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5
CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3
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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4
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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON
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Santa Maria del Giglio
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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
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Palazzo Fortuny
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Palazzo Querini-Dubois
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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
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Eredi Jovon's cameo
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Japan Pavilion
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United States Pavilion
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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
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TR
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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia
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CALLE
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Canale
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DE
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CALLE
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CALLE RIO
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TI
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CALL
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CALLE CORERA
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CALLE
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San Francesco di Paola BALD
CALLE
DE
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
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CALLE ZUCCHERO
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EPPE
CALLE
IUS VIA G
VA
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Punta della Dogana
CALLE DELL’ANGELO
DELFINA
GRIMANI
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LA CERTOSA
Vergini
OLO C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
CALLE
BEATA
FONDAME
CALLE
CALLE
LA TANA
NUOVA
FOSCARINI
RAMO DE
DEI PRETI
VENIER
TANA
COLTRERA
TERRÀ
DE LA
CALLE
PISCINA
de le
CALLE TERCO
CAMPO
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
CALLE
RIO
LE
CALLE FRIZIER
SANT'AGNESE
ENA
C. LOREDANA
BRAGADIN
ARS
NALE
CALLE
PISCINA
PISCINA
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TI,
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DEL
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LARGA
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CALLE
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FONDAMENTA
SALIZADA
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SECONDO
FOSCARI CALLE
E N TA
TA A R SE
CROSERA
FORNACE
SALONI
FONDAMENTA
VIDA
DEI FORNI
AMEN
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
TERRÀ
INCURABILI
LA
FONDAMENTA
Arsenale
100 m
Salute
CATECUMENI
RIO
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
CALLE
CALLE DE
FOND
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CASTELLO
RIDOTTO
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
DEI
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
DI
CALLE
VALLARESSO
SANGIANTOFFETTI
ONI
San Martino
MOROSINA
PIETRO
CALLE
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TREDICI
Rio
RIO TERRÀ
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
SAN
O
DEGLI
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
Arsenale di Venezia
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
RUGA VECCHIA
ASCENSIONE
CALLE
EREMITE
DE CALLE
CROSERA
C. VOLTO
LARGA
SARTOR
CALLE
PISCINA
PIGNATER
CALLE
RI
Palazzo Genovese
San Gregorio
Giudecca Palanca EN
CONVERTITE
ROTONDA
L’ARCO
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
CALLE
C. DEL
DEI CORTELLOTTI
DEL
CALLE
PESARO
LUCIA SANTA NTA
PICCOLO
FONDAME
SIMON SAN
nzera
FONDAMENTA
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE
F. CONDULMER
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CERERIA LA
ROCCO
DE C.
SAN
ALBANESI
LIPOLI
DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
RAGUSEI LARGA CALLE
SESTIERE
I
DORSODURO
DEL NOVA ISOLA
Scome De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO PORTO
ima
DIREZIONE
Maritt ne
MAGAZZIN
a
AI DIETRO
CALLE
DE
SALIZADA
DEL PIOVAN
Bacin o Stazio
CALLE
S C H I AV
FONDAMENTA
Scom enzer
BASTION
SCUDI
ANTONIN
DE
R I VA D EGLI
SCHIAVONI RIVA
MARTIN SAN
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
VONI
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Santa Maria del Giglio
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
SALIZADA
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà
VIN CALLE DEL
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
VERONA
le
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
DEL
DEL
Palazzo
C.
LA
MINELLI
AM
CASTELLO
CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE DELA CREA
FO
ND
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE
DEGLI
FABBRI
DE
RC
San Zaccaria
SCHIA
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
CALLE
DEI
C.
CALLE
PESTRIN
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
DEL
A N M
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
DEGLI
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
Spirito Santo
BIAGIO
FO
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
ZATTERE
SAN
LAVRANERI
Sant'Eufemia
SAN
SALIZADA
San Giovanni di Malta
San Giorgio dei Greci
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA
Rio Del
CALLE
VERONA
Cana
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
C. PIANTON
R I VA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CALLE BOSELLO
DELL’OROLOGIO
LA
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
VAPORETTO
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
CALLE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
MARZARIA
DEI
DE
FONDAMENTA
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
SA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
DRASI
CALLE
RIO
CALLE
LO
DEL CAFETIER
CALLE
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
SEVERO
C.
C. DE LE COLONNE
Palazzo Ducale
MO
DEI PRETI
GATE
RUGA
SAN
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
Museo Correr
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CORTE NOVA
CALLE
DE LE
SAN
CALLE
RC
LATERANO
ZORZI
SALIZADA
CASTELLO
LIO
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
SAN
ZZA
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
MEZO
CALLE
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
SALIZADA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
San Moisè
CORTE
NUOVA
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE
PIA
DE
FONDAMENTA
FABBRI
C.DEI CORTE TORRETTA
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
Bacino Orseolo
BARBARIA
SAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo
DEL CALLE
DEL FORNO
GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
Rio San Lorenzo
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
SAN
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
FONDAMEN TA
LE VIGNOLE
Santa Maria del Pianto
FORNO
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CORTE BAROZZI
ZULIAN
CORTE GRAGOLINA
DELLE
SAN
XXII MARZO
O
MUSSATO
CALLE
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
NOVE
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
DEL
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
SALIZADA
DEI
GRIMANI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CAVALLI
CARBON
CALLE
Salvador
CALLE
CORNER
DEL
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
C.
C.
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
MOISE’
SA
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CARRO
CALLE
PISCINA
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CAPITELLO
ENTA
SESTIERE
C. LARGA
CORTE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
BALOTE
FREZZERIA
DEL
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
LIO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
CALLE
San
CALLE
CALLE
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
CALLE
CASTELLI
CALLE
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
GIAZZO
SAN
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE LE
FRUTARIOL
DEL
G. GALLINA
MIRACOLI
CALLE
CALLE
SALIZADA
SAN
Rio
CALLE
DEI
Teatro Malibran
CAMPO SAN LIO
C. DEL
SABION
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
CALLE ERIZZO
BEMBO
CORTE MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
RIO
LARGA
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
SAN CANZIAN
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
FONDAM
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
ORBI
CALLE
MADONA
DEI PUTI
DEL
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
DEI
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
DEL
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
CALLE
VARISCO
CALLE
CALLE
DOLERA
SAN
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
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VI
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O
CC
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IO
VI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
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CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
REMER
CALLE
DE PISCINA
LA CHIESA
CALLE DEL BASTION
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
O DEL
GALIZZI
STURION
DEI
DEL
CINQUE
C.
DRIO
Teatro la Fenice
Santa Maria del Giglio
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
NOVE
BERLENDIS
COCCO
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
TOSCANA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
WIDMANN
MAGAZEN
CALLE
LOCANDE CALLE
CALLE
CHIESA
CALLE DEL NAVARO
FONDAMENTA
E
CALLE
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
BOTERI
CALLE
DE
DONZELA
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
PATERNIN
ASSASSINI
San Fantin
DELLA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO SANTO
BIAGIO
DEI
S.Canciano
FONTEGO
PIO
LUCA SAN
TERÀ
RIO
RAMO
MORETTI
LA
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
MAZZINI
CORTE
SAN SALVADOR
TEATRO
DEL
CALLE
MANDOLA
CALLE
CAPPUZZI
ZATTERE ALLO
CALLE
SAN
CALLE
FRUTARIOL
PONTE
SACCA SAN
FONDAMENT
LARGA
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
TEATRO
CALLE
CALLE
Canal Grande
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
SALIZADA
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CORTE DEL
CAMPO MANIN
TEATRO
CAOTORTA
San Maurizio
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
DE
TODESCHI
Santo Stefano CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
San Vidal
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
CAL
TERÀ
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
MARCO
CAFETIER
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
ZATTERE
Zattere
RAVANO
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
Palazzo Loredan
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE
FONDAMENTA
RIO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
LARGA
DEL
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
CALLE
CALLE
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
CALLE
DEL
FALIER
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
NOVA
San Silvestro
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
BOTEGHE
CALLE
SARTORI
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
C.
LE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
LONGO
Santa Sofia
STRADA
ORESI
C. DEI
CALLE
DE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
PONTE
DEL
RUGHETA
SAN
S. SAMUELE
DE
AL
PISCINA
RIELO
FOND.
ZATTERE
Giudecca Hilton
PRIULI
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
Palazzo Grimani
Palazzo Fortuny
NARISI
CROSERA
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
ZEN
FOND.
VENEZIA
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
FOND.
SAMUELE
CATENE
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
VOLTI
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
MUTI
NOVE
CALLE
CATERINA
CALLE
San Beneto San Luca
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
CROSERA
Ca' Rezzonico
CARROZZE
Accademia
DE OGNISANTI
E
SANTA
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
S. SALIZADA
LE
FONDAMENT
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
S.Silvestro
DI SAN MARCO
VECCHIA
LEZZE
DE
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal
nde
CALLE
CA’ CORTE
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
FODAMENTA
CALLE CHIESA
LA
CARAMPANE
DEL
SESTIERE
CALLE RAMO
San Barnaba
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
DELLA
LE
Gra
Sant'Angelo
CALLE
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
LE PAZIENZE
BESAGIO
DE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
del
C. DE
Rio
SALIZADA SAN
Palazzo Giustinian Persico S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CALLE BERNARDO
DORSODURO
San Sebastiano
S. Basilio
CALLE
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
DEL
BRIATI
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
CALLE
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
CANAL RIO TERA’
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
A
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
PERDON
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
L’AGNELLA
al Can
CALLE
ROSSA
LARDONI
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
L’ASEO
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
DE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CALLE SAN BASILIO
CALLE
FOMO
CALLE CALLE C.
SCALETER
CAMPO SAN POLO
TRAGHETTO
CAZZIOLA
RENIER
DEL
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
Abazia della Misericordia D I
R
TRAPOLIN
STUA
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
DE
DEL
San Tomà DEL
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CALLE
O
LA
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
TIOZZI
ZANE
CROSERA
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
NUOVO
IC
DEI
Rio Nuovo
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
ER
DEL
San Felice
PARANGON
TABACCHI
San Pantalon
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
IS
RUGA
NUOVA DE L’OGIO
M
FONDAMEN
VENDRAMIN
CALLE
SAN
C.
TA
FABBRICHE
CALLE
NICOLO’ SAN
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
C.
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
EN
CA'
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
DE
LE
PAPADOPOLI
MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
CERERI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
D
TA TA
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
PRETI
N
FONDAMEN
DEI
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
DEI
MADONA
TERÀ
SAN
TINTORETTO
DEI
SAN MICHELE
Madonna
MORI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CALLE
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
CALLE
RIO
Basilica dei Frari
CALLE
CALLE
NA
Santa Fosca
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
San Rocco
Muneghete
CA
NA
DE
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
LA
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
LACA CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
LE
ALE
SOTOPORTEGO
DE
CALLE DELL'OLIO
FON.
LA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
NIE
DD
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
MEZO
TINTOR
SCHI
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SAN
BASEGO
.DA
MA
TRON
DEL
TENTOR
DE
DEL
CALLE ORSETTI
TA
C.
CALLE
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE
SALIZADA
CALLE
LA
S.Stae
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE
L’ISOLA
CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMA
SIMEONE
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
DEI
DE
DE
DE LA VIDA
DEI
FO
À D E
CALLE
C.
NUOVA
PROCURATIE
LARGA
RIZZI FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
TERA’
RAMO
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
MINOTTO
Magazen
Misericordia
FO de Servi N
SAN
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN
CANAL CORTE
LUNA
Rio
Del
della
TER
VECCHIO
C.
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Rio
PENSIERI
Rio
La Maddalena
NOVA
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
I CALLE ORSETT
PONTE
CALLE
DEI
IA
RIO
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
RD
R
STRADA
DI
BARI
FONDAMEN
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE CORTE
CALLE
SANT'ANDREA
TABACCHI
RIO
ICO
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
NUOVE
CROCE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
CALLE TRAGHETTO
RIVA
LISTA
San Simeone Profeta
LUNGA
LA
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
MIS
E DEL PISTO
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
CALLE
CROCE
TA
Rio
CALL
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA LA CALLE
CAMIN DEL
RIELLO CALLE
CALLE
NA
RDIA
Ferrovia
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
EN
SE
MISERICO
TERÀ
People Mover Venezia
AM
I
A E M
LA
TO
LER
LL
DE
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
S A N TA
NS
DELL'ORTO
ER LE P
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
San Leonardo
BIASIO
DEI
TRONCHETTO
SE
ND
Museo Ebraico CAL
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
nde l Gra Cana
SCALZI
Ponte degli Scalzi
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Rio
FONDAMENTA
People Mover Venezia
EN
FO
Santa Maria di Nazareth
TRONCHET
AM
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
CALLE
ZZ
SAVORGNAN
Riva de Biaso
CALLE DEI FUSERI
PU
San Girolamo
A
San Geremia
SALONI
CA
C.
FO
LE
O
SPAGNA
AI
DE
AM
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
DI
ZATTERE
TA
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Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT
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FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
EN
LLO
DEI
FONDAMENTA
AM
N G IR
DEL
ND
SA
CAPITELO
CASE
TA
CALLE
FO EN
TE
RIO
CALLE
AM
B AT
TERÀ
TI
MUNEGHE
ND
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
CAVALLET
CA
CALLE
AI
LE
TA
CALLE
BECCARIE
EN
CALLE
LE
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
PRIULI
DE
FORNER
FO
Canale
CAMPO SAFFA
CALLE
CALLE
DEL
DE
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
ND
FONDAMENTA
SAN
GIOBBE
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
della
CARLO
FO
A
San Giobbe
SEBASTIANO
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENT
TO
BRAGADIN
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
TRONCHET
VENIER FONDAMENTA
LARGA
FONDAMENT
A
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
DEL
FONDAMENTA
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
NOVA
QUERIN,
ER
CALLE
B
ISOLA
LA
Parco
LI
People Mover Venezia
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
LA
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
FONDAMENTA
EL
CANOSSIANE
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
NANI
A
FONDAMENTA
VI
CORTE
ER
ACCADEMIA
B
TO
COLORATA
Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE
VENINI
PAOLO
FONDAMENT
LI
IA
MURANO CALLE
LA
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
EL
NICOLO’ CALLE SAN
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
CALLE
A
CALLE
VI
PORTO MARGHERA
CALLE
The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.
TORCELLO
FONDAME
expect to take you custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.
FONDAMENTA
Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.
As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t
FONDAMENTA
Artistic Glass in Murano
VI
A
M
AL
AM
O
C
C
O
MALAMOCCO Chiesa S. Maria Assunta R I VA G I O VA N N I D I A C O N O
PIAZZA DELLE ERBE
ERÀ RIO T
PARRI
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© SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
DINING
A tasty break… in a green house! First established to host a traditional greenhouse, this space has been transformed into a unique meeting place dedicated to culture and good cuisine. Welcome to the Serra dei Giardini! By Giulia Minero
W
hen it was first founded who would have thought that the Serra dei Giardini would become a place of cultural exchanges, botanical experiences and even food? This glass and wrought iron tepidarium was built in 1894 to house the palm trees and other decorative plants used for the International Art Exhibition. The building, also known as Serra Margherita, is situated in the heart of the Castello district, just steps from the Giardini della Biennale, and was returned to its ancient splendour in the 1990s. After more than a century, when the “serra” was a workplace for generations of gardeners, and a shelter housing those plants that were particularly sensitive to the cold weather, the ‘serra’ has retained its original appearance 34 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
with the addition of some contemporary touches. The space, where large glass windows flood the interior with natural light, was enhanced with the addition of wrought iron furniture and decorative elements in wood to house the Caffè La Serra, the ideal place for breakfast, a cup of coffee or a traditional Venetian aperitivo accompanied by tantalizing snacks. Those who want to indulge in a lunch break, or a snack amidst green surroundings, can choose from a small yet well-curated selection of salads, flans or cold and hot specialties prepared using local, seasonal ingredients, accompanied by freshly squeezed juices, smoothies, herbal teas, traditional Italian sweet treats, and other organically farmed products.
>> Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi, 1254 T: 041 2960360. Map H5 www.serradeigiardini.org
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an
ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE 1000 Gourmet
PH © MIRCO TOFFOLO
PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitanstyle cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or glutenfree flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Japanese inspiration, Brazilian flavours
The best Japanese cuisine, enhanced with the mellow flavours of Brazilian inspiration, takes centre stage in a light-filled space overlooking the Grand Canal. With its decorated ceilings and contemporary furnishings embellished by panels inlaid with floral motifs typical of the Land of the Rising Sun, Sushi Mirai turns heads before you’ve even looked at the menu. Here, the most refined palates in search of a unique culinary experience can savour the creations of Sushiman Dhirendra, including a selection of sushi and hot fish-based antipasti, served in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. At Sushi Mirai, locally sourced premium-quality produce is enhanced with innovative, unusual pairings, giving life to creations like sea urchin Temaki, Uramaki Ebiten with strawberries, marinated Amaebi, Maki Ureboshi with Japanese plums or tartare seasoned according to customers’ requirements. The menu, available in à la carte or tasting versions, can also be enjoyed in the outdoor area overlooking the lagoon. www.miraivenice.com
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DINING
DINING Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. Antico Martini
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!
€€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its Dorsoduro, 780rooms, (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto elegant dining welcoming atmosphere and line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Martini Map E6serves some of attentive staff, the Antico the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. La Conca d’Oro com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, Antico Pignolo this Venetian institution has been turning out The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo. stop). Map F4 com. San Marco, 451(Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
PH © TIMOLINA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant Da Fiore
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
36 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
is housed in a 15th century building and decorated A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topwith original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. conjures upyears the aroma of authentic Neapolitan Thirty-five ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin cuisine, thanks ingredients sourced transformed antoold osteria into one ofexclusively the city’s from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. Sanand most famous restaurants. Impeccable service Polo, 1022/bVenetian (Rio Teràdishes San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. superlative composed of carefully Vaporettoseasonal 1 (San Silvestro stop).have Mapmade E4 Da Fiore selected ingredients a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. Lineadombra www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Map E3 spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. Gran Canal www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, Here you can taste the typical specialties of 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto linethe 5.1purest (Zattere stop) or 1 Venetian tradition, featuring expression (Salute Map E5 The restaurant’s main focus is of tastestop). and harmony. on seafoodCipriani and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on Locanda its terrace: the faces directly Forevocative those who want to berestaurant close to Venice, onto theworlds Grandaway, Canalthe offering diners an excellent yet feel Locanda Cipriani opportunity to combine the pleasures of the is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5
Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
restaurant. A farmhouse fromturning the exterior, it of Venetian institution has been out some has best beenpizza renovated with great charm, the in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ exuding (restaurant). an understated elegance with beautiful www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€.Vaporetto www. SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. locandacipriani.com. Piazzastop). Santa Fosca lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria Map F4 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 Lineadombra from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then Perched the Off last Map bridge of the most beautiful take the 9online). promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Taverna al Remerdinner where you can enjoy all spot for a romantic Located near to theof Rialto Bridge, this romantic the typical flavours the Venetian lagoon. €€€. ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. decor, which lends it an intimate, touch. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 informal (Zattere stop) Although the menu features or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual Trattoria Do Forni pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. The ownerCannaregio, Eligio Paties5701. has managed to make this alremer.it. T. 041 5228789. restaurant a sought-after distinguished Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Orodestination, stop). by its F3 wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to Map the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of Trattoria Do Forni typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces Theremind owner Eligio has managed make will you ofPaties the carriages of thetolegendary this restaurant a sought-after destination, “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history distinguished its wide assortment of Venetian of Venice. €€€.by www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 fare, thanks to the quality of the dishesVaporetto and a (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. genuine typicallyMap Venetian line 1 or 2sense (San of Zaccaria). F4 hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute Wildner to the history of Fullin Venice. €€€. in www.doforni.it. San Opened by the family 1960, it is patronized Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 relaxed 5232148. by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, Vaporetto line or 2 (San Zaccaria). F4 atmosphere is 1further enhanced by Map a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Wildner and serves classic Venetian specialties fish-based Opened by‘Baccalà the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized including Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. by localsonand tourists €€€. alike.c/o Its Pensione tranquil, relaxed Closed Tuesdays. Wildner. atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 view Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly or 5.1over (Santhe Zaccaria stop). Map G4 fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Dal or 5.1Mas (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3
PASTRY SHOPS
Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Pasticceria Rosa Salva
This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. La Conca d’Oro www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, haute cuisine of this signature plays on the creative combinations of5227934. T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 LaThe Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilianrestaurant brothers Italian specialties traditional Venetian www.kempinski.com/it/venice Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 Giuseppe and Giovanniand Costa, the founders of the dishes. 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this
ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT
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DINING
Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.
Terrazza Danieli
Do Leoni
Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com The restaurant masterfully creates epicurean aquarelles beyond expectations that depict delicacies from the Adriatic Sea, and culinary inspirations of modern Venetian and East Mediterranean origin. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes.
Map E5
Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5
De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes. Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables.
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6
Map F5
Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5
Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1
Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4
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DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants
Oro
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. After being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, it received its second star in November 2019. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this
38 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef Mara Martin, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3
Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu by chef Massimiliano Alajmo features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but
Š #PHOTODAVIDEBIANCHET
Il Ridotto
Quadri
Glam
wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281. www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. In a corner of paradise just steps away from the island of Burano, its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the island of Mazzorbo, the Dorona di Venezia wine variety has found a magical equilibrium on land that is constantly threatened by salt and water. Venissa is a wine with true personality that is intrinsically linked to its terroir: there is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced each year. Off Map
Venissa
Rosso Venissa
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Osteria da Fiore
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ESSENTIALS
Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi
I
talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 40 W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.
Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates
(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 41
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MURANO 13
TREPORTI
ISOLA CAMPALTO STRADA
GE
LO
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NI
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Ponte Lungo
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CAL
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FOSC
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BERTOLINI CALLE
FONDAM
CALL
ENT
CO
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Chiesa di San Pietro Martire
CA
CIPRIANO SAN CALLE
O
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Chiesa S. Erasmo
O
Chiesa dei Santi Maria e Donato
CRISTO
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GN
LL
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CAMPO DE LE CASE NOVE
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RADI
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CAMPO SAN BERNARDO
BAROVIER CALLE
PORTO MARGHERA
LL
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Santa Maria degli Angeli
LORENZO
ORTES
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CAL
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SAN
GIANMARIA
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CALLE DEL CIMITERO
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Cimitero Nuovo
A
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CANOSSIANE
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rdia
CORDONI DEI STELLA CALLE
SQUERO DEL CALLE
MENDICANTI
FONDAMENTAMendicanti
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Rio de San Gerolamo
SALIZADA TA
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US
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ISEPO SANT'ANTONIO
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I
NO
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LE
INO
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SS MP
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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
TO
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IA
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ND
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OL
SAN CLEMENTE 16 PALACE KEMPINSKI
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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
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5
San Giuseppe di Castello TERÀ RIO
O EP N IS SA
IO ON 'ANT NT SA
DO PALU LLE CA DO PALU LLE CA
E G
United States Pavilion
EMB E IV NOV
AL IA
CALLE MONT E PA S U B I O
NT E
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NO CH
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see page 6
1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO
7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA
12 THE GHETTO
2 PALAZZO DUCALE
8 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO
13 MURANO
3 CANAL GRANDE
9 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE
14 BURANO
G
CA
E
Teatro Verde
6 PONTE DI RIALTO
GN
F.
PA
ZU
ENA
SS
AR
GEN
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LE
Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo
T'EL ENTA SAN
I
TI
C
SO
BO
CAR
SA
LI
C. D EL
FON DAM
O
BB
Japan Pavilion
CAL
Top in Town
IO
E VIAL E PIAV
U I P
MAGGIORE
XXIV M AGG
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IN
SAN GIORGIO
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Russia Pavilion
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San Giovanni Novo
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Teatro Malibran
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United States Pavilion
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Russia Pavilion
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II
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SANT’ANTONIO
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CALLE BALBI
ZULIAN SAN
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LE DE
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CALLE
CALLE DEL
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CALLE DEL DOSE
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DE
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Santi
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CALLE
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CORTE TREVISAN CALLE
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DEL
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C.
ROSA DEL CALLE
CAMPANIEL DEL
REGINA
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BOTERI
DEI CALLE
CALLE
CALLE STUA
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CALLE
CALLE
DE
LA
DE
DE
MATTIA SAN
L’ARCO
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DOGE DEL
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Apostoli
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FO
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RIO
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POLACCA
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CALLE
CALLE ZUCCHERO
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CALLE DELL’ANGELO
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Punta della Dogana
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San Francesco di Paola
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CALLE
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NALE
FONDAME
CALLE
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TA A R SE
LA TANA
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DEI PRETI
CALLE
AMEN
TANA
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DE LA
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CALLE
TERRÀ
VIDA
CALLE FRIZIER
PISCINA
LA
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RIO
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
CALLE
SANT'AGNESE
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
DEI FORNI
Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
CROSERA
BRAGADIN
LA CERTOSA
Vergini
CALLE
PISCINA
de le
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FORNACE
FONDAMENTA
LE
DI
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
SALONI
INCURABILI
ENA
MOROSINA
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Salute
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TERRÀ
CALLE
ARS
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SAN
DEI CORTELLOTTI
DAM
RUGA VECCHIA
RIO TERRÀ
RIO
ROTONDA
DEI
RI
Palazzo Genovese
FONDAMENTA
SA
FONDAMENTA
ACCADEMIA
CALLE
FON
FONDAMENTA
C. VOLTO
ONI
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
San Martino
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
S C H I AV
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
DEL PIOVAN
R I VA D EGLI
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Santa Maria del Giglio
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
TA
COSMO
FONDAMENTA
DE
CALLE
CROSERA
CALLE DELA CREA
Giudecca Palanca EN
CONVERTITE
CALLE
MARTIN
PISCINA
PIGNATER
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
CALLE
CALLE
LA
SANTA TA
QUERIN,
CALLE
PESARO
LUCIA PICCOLO
FONDAMEN
SIMON SAN FONDAMENTA
MEZZO CALLE
DI
L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE
F. CONDULMER
FON. DEI TOLENTINI
CERERIA LA
ROCCO
DE C.
SAN
ALBANESI
LIPOLI
DEI
CALLE
SBIACCA LARGA
STRETA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE RAGUSEI
DORSODURO
CALLE
I
CALLE
DE CALLE
CAMIN DEL
RIELLO CALLE
CALLE
O
TRONCHETT
DEL NOVA ISOLA
zera Scomen De
MARITTIMO
Canale
PORTO DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE
Maritt ima
ne
SAN
L’ARCO
BASTION
SCUDI
DEL
MAGAZZIN
DEGLI
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
AM
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
CALLE
C. DEL
ASCENSIONE
ND
DE
SALIZADA
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
Spirito Santo
FO
FO
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
CALLE
VONI
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
CALLE
DE
ZATTERE
BIAGIO
Sant'Eufemia
ANTONIN
Arsenale
LAVRANERI
CALLE
GATE
LARGA
SAN
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
DRASI
SCHIA
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
100 m
FONDAMENT A
CALLE
DE LE
DEGLI
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
O
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
SALIZADA
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
PONTE
CALLE
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE
R I VA
SAN
SALIZADA
SALIZADA
AI
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE ERIZZO
CALLE
TODESCHI
RC
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
CALLE BOSELLO
Stazio
CALLE
San Lorenzo
Rio San Lorenzo
DEI PRETI
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
VIN CALLE DEL
Palazzo
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
C. DEI
A N M
CALLE
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
Rio Del
VERONA
nde Canal Gra
SA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
DEL CAFETIER
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
GIUFFA
SEVERO
RUGA
SAN
LA
MINELLI
Palazzo Ducale
LO
ZORZI
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
O
MO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
DIETRO
Santa Maria del Pianto
LATERANO
CORTE NOVA
SALIZADA
C. PIANTON
SCHIAVONI
DEGLI
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
MEZO
DE CALLE
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
CASTELLO
ORBI
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
SESTIERE
BARBARIA
DEI
FABBRI
DE
RC
Museo Correr
RIVA
CORTE
NUOVA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
SAN
SAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
DEL
LARGA
CALLE
MA
SAN
ZZA
NTA
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAME
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CALLE
DELL’OROLOGIO
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
CAVALLETTO
ORSEOLO
DEL
DEL
PIA
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
SPECHIERI
C.
PISCINA
VERONA
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
G. GALLINA
DEL
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
CALLE
DEL FORNO
BALONI
CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
SPADARIA
MARZARIA
LA
CROSERA
CALLE
DE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
C.
DEL
DEI
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
CALLE
LARGA
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
TASCA
CORTE
C.DEI
CORTE TORRETTA
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
Bacino Orseolo
FREZZERIA
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CORTE BAROZZI
ZULIAN
GALLO
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
TERÀ
DEL
RIO
CALLE
DE
MOISE’
XXII MARZO
O MUSSATO CALLE
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
DEI
C.
C. DE LE COLONNE
SA PISCINA
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA
DEI
CALLE
REDIVO
CALLE
CALLE GOLDONI
TRAGHETTO
CALLE
DEL
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
MEZO
C.
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
REMER
CALLE
FABBRI
CALLE
DE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
CASSELERIA
DEI
GRIMANI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CAVALLI
CARBON
CALLE
Salvador
CALLE
CORNER
DEL
San
CALLE
CALLE
Rio
CORTE MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
DEL
TAGIAPIERA LE
LIO
BEMBO
SAN
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
BERLENDIS
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
SAN
CALLE
MADONA
San Fantin CALLE
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
VENEZIA
NOVE
CALLE
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CALLE
LICINI
CORTE GRAGOLINA
DELLE
BOTERI
VARISCO
CASTELLI
SALIZADA
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
DEL
MARZARIA
C.
C.
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CORTE
RUBBI
MAGAZEN
FRUTARIOL
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
C. LARGA
CORTE
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
LIO
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
DEI
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
SAN
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
O DEL
CALLE
DOLERA
DEL
Teatro la Fenice
San Gregorio
DEL FORNO
LUCA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
MARCO
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Santa Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
CALLE DEL NAVARO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
CALLE
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
WIDMANN
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
SALIZADA
SAN
COCCO
CALLE CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
DEI
GIAZZO
CAMPO
SAN LIO
C. DEL
SABION
San Salvador
TEATRO
CALLE
CALLE DEL BASTION
DELLA
SALIZADA
SANTO
DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CAPPUZZI
TEATRO
ASSASSINI
CALLE
CAMPO
SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
CALLE
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin CALLE
RIO
Teatro Malibran
CALLE
GALIZZI
STURION
DEI
DEL
DEI PUTI
CALLE
SPIRITO
TERÀ
RIO
MAZZINI
CORTE
SAN SALVADOR
CAMPO MANIN
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CALLE
ZATTERE
CINQUE
C.
SAN CALLE
Canal Grande
C.SANT'AGNESE
FONDAMENTA ALLO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
CALLE
DEL
San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Giudecca Hilton
DEI
Santo Stefano
Accademia
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
Palazzo Grimani
CALLE
CAL RAMO
S.Canciano
SAN CANZIAN
FONTEGO
PIO
LARGA
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
AI GESUATI
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
LE
CALLE
DE
VOLTI
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
Rialto
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
San Beneto San Luca
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia NANI
nde G ra
SAN
CROSERA
CALLE CALLE
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
TOSCANA
SAMUELE
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli) CALLE
DEL
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
DE
S.
San Vidal
CATENE
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
CATERINA
PRIULI
CALLE
DONZELA
LEZZE
CARROZZE
DEL PISTOR
NOVE
CALLE
SANTA
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
NOVA
PESCARIA
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
Palazzo Fortuny
NARISI
FALIER
CALLE
FONDAMENTE
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
Santa Sofia
STRADA
CAMPO DELLA
LA
FOND.
CALLE
LONGO
IA
RAVANO
DEL
CALLE
LE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
TRAPOLIN
STUA
BECARIE
DE
enzera
O
LA
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Palazzo Loredan
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Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
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Santa Fosca
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Palazzo Querini-Dubois
Palazzo Giustinian Persico
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San Giacomo dall'Orio
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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
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San Leonardo
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San Simeone Profeta
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Santi Apostoli
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Palazzo Soranzo Capello
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Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
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San Girolamo
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People Mover Venezia
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Santa Maria di Nazareth
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San Giobbe
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Parcheggio Bus Turistici
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SANGIANTOFFETTI
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Santa Maria delle Penitenti
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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
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2
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11 San Siro
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3 14
3
4
11
4
12
6
7
Copyright Proedi Comunicazione. © 2020
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10
LEGENDA
SHOPPING AREAS
A
1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II
B
3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 4 Via Dante
C
5 Via Torino 6 Brera-Solferino
D
7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 8 Corso Buenos Aires
10
9 Corso XXII Marzo 10 Navigli-Porta Ticinese
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Linate City Airport (6 km)
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ENTERTAINMENT AREAS
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G
Navigli (G8-G9) | Brera (H5) | Corso Garibaldi & Corso Como (H3) | Porta Venezia (G3-H3) Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione (F4-G4) | Isola (H1-I1) | CityLife (C2-C3) | Porta Romana
H
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Chiesa San Felic
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Chiesa di San Pier Gattolino15 SAN LORENZO
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Palazzo della Missione
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Palazzo Guadagni A
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Museo Salvatore Ferragamo
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Basilica di Santo Spirito
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Palazzo Bartolini Pal Salimbeni Dav
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Palazzo P. DEGLI Strozzi STROZZI
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Palazzo Macchiavelli
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Ponte Santa Trinita
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Palazzo Corsini al Parione
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Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano
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Ex monastero delle Convertite (1330)
6 PONTE VECCHIO
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Chiesa S. Frediano in Cestello
Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine
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PIAZZA O R G O D ELL AS DEL CARMINE T
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Chiesa di San Paolino
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4 PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA
SHOPPING AREAS
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LU NG AR NO
PIAZZA TORQUATO TASSO
see page 10
GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI
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Top in Town
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Amerigo Vespucci (4km)
Chiesa Airport episcopale americana di St. James
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San Jacopo di Ripoli
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Giardino di Palazzo Corsini sul Prato
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Porta San Niccolò
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