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Where Venice n 45 May 2020

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VENICE CITY GUIDE ®

MAY 2020

W W W.WHERE-VENICE.COM

GRAND TOUR

Discover & Enjoy Italy

A selection of the best destinations devoted to beauty and fine dining

吃喝玩乐 尽在这里

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS


BENVENUTI IN ITALIA

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

Siamo qui da secoli. Vi aspettiamo.

www.where-venice.com

Messaggio dal Paese più bello del mondo.

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@proedimedia.com www.where-venice.com

Il settore del turismo ha sofferto più di tutti della recente pandemia. I lockdown, le chiusure Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®

dei confini, il crollo del reddito disponibile, nel momento in cui scrivo potrebbero ispirare solo depressione. Ma stiamo invece parlando dell’Italia.

La meta preferita per secoli dai viaggiatori. Infinite volte sfidata da guerre, carestie, epidemie e infinite volte tornata ad essere il Paese più

PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com COO

Pierfrancesco Coreno pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com MANAGING EDITOR

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com CONTRIBUTORS

desiderato al mondo.

Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli

Dopo ogni notte ci sarà una alba, e a ben guardare i segni possono

Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock

essere già colti anche oggi. L’analisi dei big data di internet mostra l’Italia come prima destinazione ricercata in milioni di interrogazioni online. L’offerta del nostro Paese è immensamente vasta per tesori naturali e culturali. Siamo il Paese con il maggior numero di Siti UNESCO Patrimonio dell’Umanità. Se fossimo un museo saremmo il museo più grande del mondo. Se fossimo un ristorante quello con la cucina più apprezzata. Se fossimo una spiaggia quella meglio attrezzata

ICONOGRAPHY

CARTOGRAPHY

City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 MARKETING & ADVERTISING

Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni advertising@proedimedia.com ADMINISTRATION

Katia Greto amministrazione@proedimedia.com PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT COORDINATOR

al mondo.

Paola Grilli paola.grilli@proedimedia.com

Montagne, foreste e boschi, laghi, colline paesaggi unici contraddistinguono l’Italia. Ma tutto questo poi è reso unico dalla gente. Meglio, dalle genti. Per millenni la penisola fu meta di migrazioni e popoli del nord o del mare si installarono apportando nuove culture che andarono a creare l’Italia. E adesso caro visitatore ti aspettiamo orgogliosi della nostra Italia, accoglienti, e decisi a offrirti una esperienza unica che nei secoli milioni di viaggiatori hanno ricercato. Dopo la pestilenza del Medio Evo arrivò il Rinascimento. Where® è qui per svolgere la sua missione di guidare i viaggiatori

HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER

Maria Granata maria.granata@proedimedia.com CUSTOMER SERVICES

Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

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alla scoperta dell’Italia, anche nel nuovo Rinascimento.

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A presto! L'editore

>> Per verificare i giorni e le modalità di apertura di musei, ristoranti, negozi e outlet: www.wheremilan.com

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Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

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CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris

IV


WELCOME TO ITALY We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you. A message from the most beautiful country in the world. The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the global economy – the tourism industry. The current lockdown, closing of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this editorial could be very depressing, but remember we’re talking about Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world. Every night is followed by a new dawn, and if you look carefully you will see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions

Venice

of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best equipped in the world. Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is

Florence

made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in the creation of Italy. So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember

Turin

the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance! Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance. We look forward to seeing you soon! The Publisher

Rome

>> To check the opening of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com


WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”, Milan

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Virtual Tours of Italian Museums What can you do when at home for the Coronavirus lockdown? Why not visit a museum in a new way, with a virtual tour, for example. We've rounded up a selection of the Milanese and Italian museums virtually opening their doors to the public thanks to their websites and official social media accounts. BY GIULIA MINERO

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ven during these days at home facing the COVID-19 emergency, the culture never stops. Institutions, public and private museums and art galleries are all united to provide their visitors with the chance to explore their collections, the featured exhibitions – which are all closed to the public – and even enjoy site-specific events and special activities. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you'll be spoilt for choice. Enjoy your visit!

Pinacoteca di Brera MILAN

Those who are at home for the safety measures to prevent the spread of COVID-19 or people who just would like to visit a museum and don’t have the chance to do it can take advantage of a new concept of museum visits powered by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery). On the art gallery’s website, lovers of art can discover over 669 works of art thanks to the online collection. Each masterpiece features a caption, a description of the context in which it was created, the used technique and some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and religious images as if they were discovering them inside the museum. >> Check the online collection at pinacotecabrera.org

Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” MILAN

The Museum is still working to share its most precious treasures with its visitors. #storieaportechiuse engages visitors of all ages in behind-the-scenes tours, explorations of the collections and archives, science news, educational lab activities... with videos, pictures and unpublished documents. Most of the contents are published in Italian in order to reach more effectively the local audiences. Yet you can still enjoy the beautiful pictures and fascinating visual material provided in the program. Here is the daily schedule, every week: Monday: Stories from the Museum’s deposits and behindthe-scenes work. Tuesday: Interactive workshops and informal education. Wednesday: Science and technology news. Thursday: Tales from the Museum’s history. Friday: Items from the Museum’s archives and libraries. Saturday: Virtual

Reality stories. Sunday: Leonardo da Vinci. Other online activities are held on the official Facebook, Instagram and YouTube accounts. >> Check the online activities at www.museoscienza.org

Fondazione Prada MILAN

During the lockdown connected to the COVID-19 issue, Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to various online services enabling visitors to fully discover the foundation and its heritage straight from their homes. According to this new concept of multimedia experience, the foundation’s website, as well as the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo and YouTube accounts become the ideal stage to share ideas and explore new ways to experiment with culture. Thanks to the “Glossary” section, for instance, the various projects connected to art, cinema, dance, music, architecture and philosophy w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  3


WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR

Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice

Museo Egizio, Turin

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is still active. Daily at 5pm artists, designers and architects can be seen and heard live on the official Instagram account (@triennalemilano). Moreover, the official website enables visitors to enjoy interviews, podcasts and highlights on the world of art and culture, as well as videos and images from the historical archives of the Triennale. Other online activities are held on the official Facebook and YouTube accounts. >> Check the online activities at www.triennale.org

Museo Egizio The Vatican Museums, Rome

Live streamings Virtually strolling through gardens, discovering historical dwellings and their precious objects is now possibile thanks to FAI – Fondo Ambiente Italiano. The Italian National Trust has indeed powered its brad-new #Italiamimanchi online project enabling visitors to enjoy some of its most widely-appreciated properties thanks to live streamings on the official FAI account on Facebook, Instagram and on the official YouTube channel. >> Read more at https://www.wheremilan.com/news/ italiamimanchi-online-tours-fai/

launched from 1993 up to our days become the protagonists of an ideal dialogue of art thanks to images, videos, texts and extracts from catalogues. Conversely, the Inner Views initiative has been created to substitute a real visit to the spaces of the Fondazione and to enable visitors to discover the three featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, “Storytelling” and “K” – thanks to an online learning method based on interviews, images, videos and focus on the featured masterpieces. A more complete vision of art is provided by the Outer Views section, focusing on the contribution of works of art from the Fondazione Prada on loan to other important Italian and foreign institutions. >> Check the online collection at www.fondazioneprada.org

Triennale Milano MILAN

Though Milan's most known design museum is closed, its Triennale Decameron program 4  W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020

TURIN

The second largest Egyptian Museum in the world after the one in Cairo, the Museo Egizio in Turin can be enjoyed thanks to special guided tours. Led by the museum's director – Mr. Christian Greco – and available for free on the official Youtube account, the 8-minute tours help visitors discover insightful highlights on the featured findings. Other multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account (@museoegizio). >> Check the online activities at museoegizio.it

Galleria degli Uffizi FLORENCE

The MuseoCity association, together with Google Arts&Culture has introduced a new way of visiting the precious museum in Florence and its sections thanks to a selection of high-resolution images of the featured works, which include masterpieces by great Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo,


Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section on the official website allows guests to enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue between art from the past and the various cultures of the world. >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it

Musei Vaticani The Vatican Museums ROME

The various halls of the Vatican Museums in Rome – which include 26 sections and museums-within-the-museum, among which the Stanze di Raffaello (Raffaello's Rooms) and the Sistine Chapel – can be admired thanks to 360-degree virtual tours. The tours are available online on the official website and also enable visitors to enjoy a close-up view of the thousands of works of art part of the Popes' collection gathered through the centuries. Videos and other multimedia contents can be discovered on the official YouTube channel. >> Check the online activities at www.museivaticani.va

Peggy Guggenheim Collection VENICE

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues its educational mission with weekly e-news and social media programs that include innovative content designed to share

anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience the museum through Art Talks dedicated to masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, Instagram @guggenheim_venice, Twitter @GuggenheimPGC >> Check the online collections at www.guggenheim-venice.it

Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte NAPLES

Thanks to the collaboration between MuseoCity and Google Arts&Culture, the cultural and artistic gems of the Capodimonte Museum near Naples can be admired online straight from home. The online Google Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent park. Over 203 paintings can be seen and analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera technology, while the special Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the masterpieces hosted in the museum and in the alleys of the Real Bosco. >> Check the online collections at www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it

PERSONAL STORIES. Drawing inspiration from Giovanni Boccaccio's “The Decameron”, about a group of young people who stayed outside Florence for ten days to escape the Black Plague in 1348 and took turns in telling stories to kill the time, Triennale Milano has invited artists, designers, architects, intellectuals, musicians, singers, writers, directors and journalists to "inhabit" Triennale Milano’s empty spaces in order to develop a personal story.

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 6  W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a


SEE MAP PAGE 42 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10

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LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11

pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7

THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  7


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DUOMO 1 Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. It houses a number of interesting museums 8  W H E R E M V EI N L AI CNE I I MMAY AY 2020 2020

and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Map E4 CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. Map D4 PALAZZO REALE 5 Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently

one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square. Map F5 PIAZZA SCALA 6 The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala. In the center of the square is the monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4


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BRERA DISTRICT 8 This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces. Map F3 AMBROSIANA 9 The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 NAVIGLI 10 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years

ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots. Map E6 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Europe. Off Map SANT’AMBROGIO 12 One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried. Map E5 PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola

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districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi.the new BAMBiblioteca degli Alberi. Map S2 TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. Map D3 CIMITERO MONUMENTALE 15 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras. Map E1 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com  9


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DUOMO AND CUPOLA Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1

CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3

BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the

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square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire

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SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10 MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12

Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7

PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14 SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  11


[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]

Top in Turin 10

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MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 12  W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020

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artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist JeanFrançois Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2

headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4

MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3

PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5

PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the

VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when


SEE MAP PAGE 48 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

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MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 11

ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant-garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

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BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by Umberto Mastroianni. 7

VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  13


[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]

Top in Rome

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COLOSSEUM 1 The Colosseum is the indestructible symbol of the Eternal City and the largest amphitheatre ever built. It was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as mock sea battles, wild animal hunts, executions, and reenactments of famous battles. Map F4

the Four Rivers, which encompasses an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of four river gods. Other two magnificent fountains decorate the piazza: the fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain of the Neptune. Map D3

ROMAN FORUM 2 The heart of Ancient Rome. See the Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, the House of the Vestal Virgins, and more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Map E/F4/5

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4 The most famous staircase in the world, with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei Monti church at the very top. At its feet is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia by Bernini from which begins Via Condotti, the most exclusive shopping street in Rome. Map E2

PIAZZA NAVONA 3 One of the most beautiful squares in Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of

TREVI FOUNTAIN 5 Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, celebrating the triumph of waters

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with the imperious statue of Oceano dominating the scene. Make sure to toss a coin or two into its famous waters to assure your return to Rome. Map E3 SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6 The greatest church in the world with art masterpieces including Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue dome dominates the grandiose scene, while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the solemn entrance to the Vatican and the Christendom. Map B3 VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7 The most important museum of Rome with an incomparable collection of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, Renaissance, and baroque art; works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and


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many more. The Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo is regarded as one of the major artistic accomplishments of human civilization. Map B2 PANTHEON 8 The city only architecturally intact monument from classical times, constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior measures 43.4 m in width and height. Light and air (and even rain) enter through the opening at the top through which the sky pervade the temple. Map D3 CASTEL SANT’ANGELO 9 Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, transformed into a majestic fortress centuries later, now a museum. It is joined to the Vatican by the famous

Passetto, a passageway used to be a secret escape for the popes. Map C2/3 MOUTH OF TRUTH 0 It is a marble mask which stands against the left wall of Santa Maria in Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector from another time, it attracts thousands of visitors who audaciously stick their hand in the mouth. According to legend, a liar who puts his hand in the mouth will have it bitten off. Map D5 CAPITOLINE HILL ! One of the seven hills of Rome, boasting a piazza, designed by Michelangelo with a bronze copy of the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius in the middle. On the highest

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summit of the Campidoglio is located the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, reachable by a steep staircase counting 124 steps. Map D4 PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 12 It is an enormous square architecturally superb and perfectly symmetrical, dominated by an Egyptian obelisk and enriched by important churches such as the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by Caravaggio and Pinturicchio. Map D1 VILLA BORGHESE 13 The most celebrated and easily accessible villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill. Take a walk through its intricate gardens or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del Lago. Map D1 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  15


WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE

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1 January NEW YEAR’S EVE CONCERT AT LA FENICE Traditional concert at the Gran Teatro La Fenice. The concert is broadcasted live and followed by audiences from all over Italy.

May-November THE BIENNALE The Biennale kicks off with a mega event dedicated to art (odd-numbered years) and architecture (even-numbered years). Running alongside the two main events at the Giardini and the Arsenale, are city-wide exhibitions, events and installations. The Dance (June), Theatre (July-August), Film (AugustSeptember) and Music (September-October) Biennali take place from May to November. VOGALONGA A 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs.

6 September REGATA STORICA / HISTORIC REGATTA One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER HOMO FABER. CRAFTING A MORE HUMAN FUTURE (10 September - 11 October 2020) A bi-annual showcase of the finest European craftsmanship at the Fondazione Giorgio Cini (Island of San Giorgio Maggiore). PH © HERMES

JANUARY

JUNE

6 January REGATA DELLE BEFANE Venice celebrates Epiphany with a funfilled regatta, complete with a fleet of men dressed as Father Christmases and Befane (witches). The procession leaves from the Grand Canal, loops around the ‘paleto’ (a stake in the water), and returns to the Rialto Bridge.

FEBRUARY VENICE CARNIVAL Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the world’s most thrilling open-air costume extravaganzas. The next edition will be held from Saturday 30 January 2021 to Tuesday 16 February 2021 (Il Ballo del Doge® on Saturday 13 February).

APRIL VENICE NIGHT TRAIL A 16km competitive night marathon that crosses through the centre of Venice. 25 April FESTA DI SAN MARCO/ FEAST OF ST. MARK In addition to being a national holiday, on this day Venetians also celebrate St. Mark, the patron saint of the city.

SALONE NAUTICO VENEZIA An open-air boat show staged at the Arsenale, the world’s most historic dockyards in the heart of the ‘Serenissima’.

JULY Third Sunday of July FESTA DEL REDENTORE / FEAST OF THE REDEEMER A parade of boats in the Giudecca canal, plus a dazzling fireworks display on Saturday evening.

SEPTEMBER End of August/beginning of September INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION OF CINEMATOGRAPHIC ART The Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale and runs at the Lido di Venezia. Founded in 1932, it is the oldest film festival in the world.

FESTA DELLA SENSA AND SPOSALIZIO DEL MARE Celebrations include regattas, a waterborne pageant and the Sposalizio del Mare (Marriage of the Sea). The event is held on Ascension weekend.

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THE VENICE GLASS WEEK

OCTOBER End of October VENICEMARATHON One of the most unique 42K road races in the world. It leaves from Villa Pisani (Brenta Riviera) and ends in Venice.

21 November FESTA DELLA SALUTE A religious festival dedicated to the Madonna della Salute, whose namesake church is located at Punta della Dogana, and connected to Santa Maria del Giglio via a temporary wooden pontoon bridge set up over the Grand Canal.

THE VENICE GLASS WEEK The most important international festival dedicated to glass art. Highlights include exhibitions, conferences, performances, workshops, themed dinners and guided tours, plus a slew of other events.

MAY

HOMO FABER

NOVEMBER 2020

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NEW YEAR'S EVE AT LA FENICE

End of November TEATRO LA FENICE NEW SEASON Launch of the new season at Venice’s ancient opera house. The new calendar generally opens with an Italian opera.

DECEMBER 2020 CHRISTMAS CONCERT AT ST. MARK’S BASILICA The traditional Christmas Concert of the Fondazione Teatro La Fenice, featuring the Choir of the Marciana Chapel, is staged under the magnificent golden mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica.


WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE Take advantage of a stroll through the picturesque “calli” of Venice to treat yourself to some alluring detail of style. Where® brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends dedicated to colour and light-heartedness!

▼ CA' MACANA The decoration of this “Colombina Rosy 2” eye mask combines the warm tones of antique pink, red, and violet with gold leaf. Different areas are outlined by a raised golden stucco. A perfect item if you’re looking for an effective disguise that is not too flashy. www.camacana.com

▼ GIORGIO ARMANI These pumps in woven satin combine elegance and sensuality in a shoe that responds to the every requirement of today’s modern woman. Crafted in woven satin, they have a matching strap and profile. Available in red or powder pink. www.armani.com

▲ GUCCI This men’s leather belt, designed to be worn at the waist or around the hips, is defined by a Double G silver brass buckle with a shiny finish inspired by an archival design from the 1970s. www.gucci.com

▲ BORSALINO The “Panama Quito Sophie Pattern” in two-tone handwoven Ecuadorian straw tells the younger generations about the 1980s, a decade buzzing with creativity reinterpreted through the archives of the Italian company. www.borsalino.com

▲ CHANEL A solid fragrance in a unique format. The four “Chance” Perfume Pencils, featured in a discovery set, offer a new way to tempt fate. The ideal on-the-go solution for use at any time of day. www.chanel.com

▲ NARDI In Nardi’s beautifully crafted jewelry, diamonds often converse with semi-precious stones or innovatively-shaped metals. These “Mosaico” earrings in pink gold set with amethysts and cabochon cut garnets are an exquisite example of the brand’s classic contemporary designs. www.nardi-venezia.com

► EMILIO PUCCI The coloured prints by the historic Florentine fashion house are continuously imbued with new, colourful patterns. This leather and printed straw bag features a triumph of colours and geometric shapes that interpret the spirit of spring to perfection. www.pucci.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  17


WHERE NOW | UNIQUE

gondola

All about the

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8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century. Private gondolas no longer exist and − the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 − metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending

a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to be − gondoliers. The first female gondolier – or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).

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Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from


WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

The allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver.

Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich.

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BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO

Bassano del Grappa

Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. In terms

Villa del Palladio, Vicenza

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A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY, ART AND NATURE Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. The monumental Villa Cornaro in Piombino Dese, near Padua, is one of the several works by Andrea Palladio (1551-52).


Verona: founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one

Trieste, Castle of Miramare

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One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.

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of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence.

Verona of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: the port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the

late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  21


SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Memories of the ancient Rome In the Castello sestiere, on Ruga Giuffa, you can visit a truly unique ‘palazzo’ whose interior is reminiscent of the splendours of ancient Rome.

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uilt in the 16th century by members of a noble Venetian family, Palazzo Grimani is a testament to its owners’ passion for archaeology. The Grimanis built the palace to house their collection of more than 150 ancient statues, creating a place that harkens back to the time of ancient Rome. For this reason, the ‘palazzo’ differs from the typical architectural style of Venetian residences, even boasting a Roman-style courtyard. The Grimani family, whose ancestors include a Doge and a bishop accused of heresy, hired the best artists of the period to build their ‘home’ and create a unique masterpiece inspired by ancient Rome. Its decorated ceilings recall the frescoes of domus romana: grotesques inspired by those unearthed in the 16th century at Rome’s famous 22  W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020

Domus Aurea and mythological scenes frescoed on the walls. The palace’s most admired space, the Tribuna, has niches where the Grimani’s collection of ancient sculptures used to stand. It was something of a wonder room that was flooded with light from a central lantern. Until May 2021, the must-visit exhibition ‘Domus Grimani 1594-2019. La collezione di sculture classiche a palazzo dopo quattro secoli’ celebrates the temporary return to Palazzo Grimani of the collection of classic statues and furnishings that belonged to Giovanni Grimani, the Patriarch of Aquileia. The exhibition takes visitors through a series of rooms (the Camaron d'Oro, the Sala a Fogliami and the Antitribuna) to the Tribuna, created to host more than 130 of the collection’s most important sculptures.

>> www.palazzogrimani.org Castello, 4858 (Ramo Grimani)


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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.

Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6

Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www. basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.

Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection

of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it

PEGGY GUGGENHEIM IN HER GONDOLA, 1968. PHOTO TONY VACCARO / TONY VACCARO ARCHIVES

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Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www.madonnadellorto. org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2

Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant

increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2

Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the best-known... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4

Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia)

Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)

Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An age-old destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in 1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3

The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4

Where you want, when you want. Valdobbiadene Tour Recently listed as a UNESCO world heritage site, this

region hosts the famous Prosecco vineyards and grapes used to make Prosecco wine. This

excursion is recommended for lovers of food and wine and includes a tour of a

local winery with a wine tasting session.

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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)

Scala Contarini del Bovolo

This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic building. However, what makes it such a popular attraction today, was the addition, by its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo. com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco, 4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop). Map E4

YOUR 1936® YOUR TRAVEL TRAVELING ING COMPANION COMPANION SINCE 1936®

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San Giorgio Maggiore Boasting a monastery and®an adjoining museum

(see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits M AonG the A Z little I N E island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, WHERE ITALIA SRL WHERE SRL and theITALIA entire complex, which holds a number Via ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1. 20154 20154 Milano. Milano. marvelous including a maze, is worth T:of 02 349951 Fax T: 02 349951 -surprises Fax 02 02 33107015 33107015 info@where-venice.com visiting. This small island, that is a part of the info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's PUBLISHER PUBLISHER ANDEDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-IN-CHIEF square, is AND separated from the Giudecca by the Andrea Jarach Andrea island Jarachof La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio lagoon (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5 EDITORIAL EDITORIAL

Scuola Grande dei Carmini Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing and a number of priceless oil paintings

WELCOME VENICE WELCOME TO VENICE

have been preserved intact. The drama builds when entering the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).

Teatro La Fenice Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural

FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.

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AlessandraFinzi Finzi(redazione@where-venice.com) (redazione@where-venice.com) important point, almost directly opposite the Alessandra Piazza SanEDITORIAL Marco, where Grand Canal MAGAZINE STAFF the Carey Bernitz, MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Bernitz,

empties intoRomena the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, ElenaBinda, Binda, Romena Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, Elena Brugnerotto, www.rominvenice.com), P.K.Stefania Daviddi, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it Vida Simona P.K. Daviddi, ElenaSimona Peverata, Elena Peverata, Stefania Vida was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, delivering Venice from the plagueGiudici, of 1630. On MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Joy Lacanlale JoyNovember Lacanlale each year, a popular religious 21 WEB EDITORIALmarking STAFF Chiara Fonzi end (coordination), celebration, the official of the WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) Black Death, is held here. The church is also Fabio Lancini (art direction), Giulia Minero (editor) redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9amICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Dreamstime, 12noon/3pm-5.30pm. ICONOGRAPHY Archivio www.basilicasalutevenezia. Where® Italia, Italia, Shutterstock Shutterstock it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia - 2017 Vaporetto lineCITY 1 (Salute Map E5srl. CARTOGRAPHY MAP: File ©stop). Where Italia srl. - 2017 Original Map by Urban - www.urbanfile.org Original Map by Urban File www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub

Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Rachele Renna, landmark features 17Mailhac, monumental altars and Isa Faleschini, Paola ZannoniMarta Mailhac, Rachele Renna, is theZannoni largest church in the city. This medieval Paola (coordination "Welcome to Italy")

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION,style, SALEShouses, SUPPORTin church in Gothic-Venetian PRODUCTION & Paola CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT Grilli by COORDINATOR addition to two paintings Titian, the tombs COORDINATOR Paola Grilli and funerary monuments of numerous famous ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto people, including Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) chorusvenezia.org. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) 2750462. Vaporetto line 1,Maria 2, N Granata (San Tomà stop). HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Map D4 (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria Granata

(maria.granata@where-venice.com) CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Silvia Maggi Santi Giovanni e Paolo CUSTOMER SERVICES Cristina Garbini, Valentina REG. TRIB. No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 One ofMILANO the city’s most important examples Senatore WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010

of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Paolo isGRAPHICSCALVE considered theNo.Pantheon of Venice PRINTED BY SPAROC WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH because all the Venetian doges, starting from Although publisher has made effort to include copyright credits, in PRINTED BYthe GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every the 13th century, buried here, together with the event of there being anyare errors, oversights or omissions, we would LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published numerous other notable personages. www. in the next issue. Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we Santi would like to basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published e Paolo note: this might inGiovanni theITALY next issue. IN Where® is (Please also published in site Milan by be Where® in Italia, in Rome by Tourist srl on marked Venetian dialect as ‘sanMedia ZaniPolo’ and in Where® Naples by IES Comunicazione srl by IN ITALY in Milan the city’s maps).isT:also 041published 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srlstop). (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS srl and in Naples by IES Comunicazione Map WHERE® F3 VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS GIFT AVAILABLE ONLY IN TOP THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE FROM HOTELS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICEVISITOR IS AVAILABLEPUBLICATIONS ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE MORRIS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.

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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.

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ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.

OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT

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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.

BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION

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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.

It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.

In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.

VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  25

IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your


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heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4

The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46

Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione,

Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several

16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6

Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia

VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5

Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro. visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map

PH © LUCA CERVESATO

Museo di San Marco

A green oasis in San Marco

Commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806 as a green space lying adjacent to the Procuratie Nuove and later embellished with greenhouses and neoclassical buildings, the Royal Gardens have been one of the three public parks located near St. Mark’s Square since 1920. The recent restoration enriched the park’s geometric structure with tall trees, shrubs, herbaceous and bulbous plants and creepers, planted to interact with the ecosystem of the Lagoon and to provide the city with a green lung. The gardens feature a 90-meter pergola which has retained its original shape in cast iron without a roof, a drawbridge to connect the gardens to the Procuratie and a large glass greenhouse. Located on the opposite side of the latter is another small greenhouse consisting of a central pavilion based on a circular plan connected to the ancient Cafehaus and to two other structures, one of which, The Human Garden, will be used for exhibitions and artistic events. www.venicegardensfoundation.org

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The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Museo Ebraico di Venezia

JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between


MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2

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Teatro La Fenice

A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5

Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3

PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA

Palazzo Ducale

Teatro La Fenice during the New Year's Eve concert There never has been such an evocative name. 230 years ago, the Phoenix, a legendary bird who rises from the ashes, gave its name to what is now the bestloved and most famous theatre in Venice. La Fenice’s history is particularly unusual. During the second half of the 18th century, the prestigious Teatro San Benedetto was partially destroyed by a fire, but rebuilt by the ‘Nobile Società dei Palchettisti’, the owners of the property. However, due to a judicial ruling by the Venier family, it was forced to sell the complex. This prompted the Association to build another larger, more luxurious theatre, which they called La Fenice as a tribute to its rebirth. In the 19th century, it staged numerous premieres of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. In 1836, a fire damaged part of the structure which was rebuilt within a year. In 1996, another devastating fire almost destroyed the theatre completely. However, despite the serious damage, La Fenice rose once again from the ashes, more splendid than ever before. If you want additional information about this legendary theatre and its ‘stars’, you can book a tour that allows access to its lavish interiors that are decorated with stuccoes and gilded ornamentation, including a

visit to the rooms hosting a permanent exhibition dedicated to Maria Callas. The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com www.teatrolafenice.it. Campo San Fantin, 1965. T: 041 786654. Map 4E

Maria Callas

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Suspended between fantasy and reality At Il Sogno di Valentina, a women’s boutique dedicated to all things Made in Italy, creations by young emerging artists, shoes and leather accessories take centre stage. By Giulia Minero

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n the heart of Dorsoduro, just steps from the Ponte dell’Accademia, Valentina De Faveri’s dream came true when she opened her boutique/salotto offering selected collections of clothing and accessories by young, emerging designers. Valentina De Faveri worked for several well-known Italian designer labels, but for the Il Sogno di Valentina, her first boutique in the lagoon city, she chose a no-logo approach, opting instead for the creativity and excellence of Made in Italy. At her informal but beautifully curated space, featuring exposed beams, minimalist furnishings and pastel colours, women seeking style tips or a seasonal trend to customize their look, can choose from among either various alternate types of clothing, or clothing designed by emerging designers. 28  W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020

Women of all ages who enjoy enhancing their outfits with unconventional accessories can opt for a selection of high-quality shoes featuring classic or elegant lines, as well as the latest collections signed by Gabs. This is an Italian company, renowned for their contemporary, youthful design, and produces bags with futuristic colours, interpreted in diverse shapes using exclusively Italian leathers. If you need some inspiration, don’t worry! Valentina is always available to help you find a solution that bestsuits you, perhaps over a drink or a cup of coffee? >> Il Sogno di Valentina Dorsoduro, 1053/c (Calle Gambara) T: 347 9512575. Map D5 www.facebook.com/ilsognodivalentina


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

The

Guidelines CLOTHING

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS - Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 42-43. TRANSPORT - References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING - This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 31. Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

»

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge. All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

MEN & WOMEN Al Duca d'Aosta Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, Treviso and Udine. The historical fourstorey Venice location features over 100 top fashion brands for men and women, carefully selected to offer its clientele quality and elegance. These include casual men’s lines for a sporty-chic look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the latest collections, including small leather goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The store offers numerous special facilities and services for its customers, including a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line 1(Rialto stop). Map F4

Pot-Pourrì Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware. Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop. Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www. TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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CA LL E Venini DE LE Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. Chiesa ER BE Damiani C CORTE SECONDA DE AM An artistic space, where you rediscover all the is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction L PIE San Giacomo DEL MILION CARAMPANE A reference SA point LL in the world of high-end NS O ON elegance and sophistication of the exquisite di Rialtoin 1886, the Tiffany® Setting has been known as the I jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable E CA di creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers ultimate symbol of love,Casa paving the way for Tiffany’s RA MP CAMPO styleCAMPIELLO and innovative technical solutions, including AN E Polo RIALTO from Murano. A prime location for passionate legendary collection Marco of engagement rings. Bold, DEL SOL d’illusione’ setting designed Fontego NUOVO to its ‘a lunette collectors, or those whose want to further their modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist dei Tedeschi highlight the brilliance of its stones. O N VA CA knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian RA creations C . D designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightlyLLE Sant’Aponal EL E D L D C www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle FON EL A .M ET TEG O GH Ponte coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made ARTINENGO PIOMBO glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by RU D. P Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 CAL LE G ALL SA di Rialto CORTE E Master craftsmen. Open IA Z Z CAMPO for those seeking N CAMPO Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Tiffany CORTE LIZa destination O spectacular DO TREVISAN ZA CAMPO APONAL DEL (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 ER SAN SAN BORTOLOMIO DA LP DEL VOLTOwww.venini.com. San PRESTRIN PIO Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily DE CAMPO X LE L SAN LIO CA Rialto Other location:CAMPIELLO Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Nardi Venezia LLO San Silvestro CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL IZ2 DE of a love of precious stones and a T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San FORMOSA A D(San Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line A combination A S FONDAMENTA SAN SILVESTRO C AN NI . DE L IO LG DEI PRETI ALIA CA Marco stops). Map F4 Marco-Vallaresso stop). ZZO Map F5 passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s LL Fontego CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

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CAL UL LE R IO LE D I high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, ND TER EL V À BA O LT IS O RB FRU RAMO Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service the epitome of sheer VenetianAelegance. Open TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. DE ORO CAMPIELLO The Merchant of Venice FO DE LA MADONNA Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Ca' Pesaro N The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO AM Santa Sofia entertainment, from the children’s adventure Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5 R eria Internazionale VALMARANA AD DEL PESTRIN CA brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in E A LL C O RT E play area to restaurants and cafés and even an San Lazzaro E NO d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro VA B ATA G I A R Venice’ is housed inCORTE the former, mid-17th century VA IS Salvadori CO dei Mendicanti annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash CORTESE CAMPIELLO apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in STELLA machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, babyCORTE NOVA La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and Venice in 1857.Apostoli A member of the World Federation Santi changing rooms, free parking, store map and CAMPIELLO ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori WIDMANN CAMPIELLO purchases its CAL guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair LE DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro B R IE ZI reflect the typical styleG Aof ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. LI diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on The Merchant of Venice is not Ospedale only a line of products S.Canciano SS. Giovanni by the highest diamond qualityC Acertificates. MPIELLO Chiesa Evangelica request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the N C SAN CANCIANO N D R IO A L L E but a wider which includes a concept store L Eproject Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm.WIDMA Luterana SCU outlet village (admission in stores depending on O LE E LL in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa www.salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: CA the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori CAMPO DELLA CAL and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open LE San Cassiano LAR AN PESCARIA and the World G A of Venice space at the Marco Polo Boutique Rolex: Piazza San 44. T: 041 C A N ZI G. G N Marco, daily 10am-8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via ALL DA SA IN A S A LI ZA Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Santa Maria R 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San IO CAMPO Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from DE Basilica SAN CASSAN dei Miracoli CAMPO DE LA Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 dei I MI 1 or 2 Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line R Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA C A LL Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (Campo San OL LL (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 E DE CAMPO CAMPO ED I L FO Grisostomo CA EC RNO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4 LE C ED MU SANTI GIOVANNI GIÀ A ST E

SCHIA

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORE T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS— Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3

ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINE—www.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4

DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4

The “FURLA Sleek” crossbody bag is made of grained leather with an Arco print. The model is characterized by a rounded shape with a practical zipper closure. Available in light pink, black, talco (white), cognac and fuoco (red).

MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORI—www.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4

JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5

LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695.Map F5

SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4

CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5

SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4

CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3

MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5

TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5

DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5

MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5

TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5

DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5

VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5

CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3

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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4

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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3

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La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON

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DE LE BAN

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

RIT

LE DE CAL

TA

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

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Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani GA RU

E ALL

O

EN

DE LE TOLE

TA EN AM ND FO

TER

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

BI

ZAT

AM

Santa Maria del Pianto

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Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

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N

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

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San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

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Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

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IES

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LLA

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AM

DE

TE

RL

CALLE DEL BASTION

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CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

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LLE

A SC TA

ASCE

CA

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GA

I

EN

BE

NO

l Palaz

LAR

I

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

SE

LIO

TO

IN

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

NE

RTIRI

NL

FONDA MENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

E

O

BO

'AG

I MA

Salute

OTT LE RID

TA

NAN

NT

CAL

CAL LE

C.SA

AM

LL

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FOR

Rio De

CA AN E BI LL CA

VAL

Santa Maria del Giglio

E DEL PISTOR

se Moi San

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CORTE BAROZZI

DIC

CALL

MAR ZO

LE TRE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

A XXII

CAL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

E LARG

HETTO DEL TRAG CALLE

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

L PIO

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ET

San Moisè

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CALL

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

CAMPO PISANI

CA GA BRLLE IEL

LE

G. GA LLI

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MICHIEL

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

ER

GO

NI LO EI BA C.D

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TOR SAR

LI

DE

EN

IA ER EL SS CA

INA

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GA

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ISE

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LI

AG

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RI BB I FA DE

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CA AR

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GR

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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

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RI

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CAL

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CIN

AN

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ZZ

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San Fantin

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MARCO RO

CA

AC

CORTE GRAGOLINA

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VE

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IR

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Santa Maria dei Miracoli

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E LL CA

E ND CA LO LLE CA

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A

RI BB I FA DE

SS

IM

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or

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CA LU

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AS

DE

LA

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lv

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San Salvador

LA

EN

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CAMPO

n

MA

TE

OL

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Sa

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C. DE LE COLONNE

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DE

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CAL

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S

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I LL VA CA

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LL

CAL

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LL

RIO

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DO

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I

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AN TEATRO

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BA FRU

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ES

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CA

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E LL CA

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AN

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CAL

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À BAR

Santajewel-like Maria Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny boutiques del Giglio San Vidal and vintage shops,Palazzo this 'unique' city offers Corner Ca' Giustinian U R O an array of 'unique'Ca’Granda della locations where you Palazzo Ponte Pisani dell'Accademia Gritti canGallerie indulge in an authentic shopping Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo Collezione Peggy Genovese experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di San Gregorio Santa put Maria to and accessories that you'll be hard della Salute find Santa Maria elsewhere. While strolling through its del Rosario Sant’Agnese esa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with Spirito Santo its characteristic vibrancy… BA

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CA

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OS

Santo Stefano

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CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

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Casa di Fontego Marco Polo Ponte dei Tedeschi di Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

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CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

Palazzo Grimani

LL

O

CA

TT

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San Giovanni Grisostomo

CA LL E

O

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LL

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HIV

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San Giacomo di Rialto

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C.

E DE

LE

DE LLE CA

E LL CA

DE

RC

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CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

LE

L’A

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SART ORI

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CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

G

GH

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

LE UE M SA S.

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

Ca' Rezzonico

RU

ON RD SAN L PE DE

LL

nde Canal Gra

VE CC CO HIA RTE LEZZ E

VA

AN

Sant’Aponal

Palazzo Fortuny

DI SAN MARCO

CA

CA LL EC A’

NO

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CAMPIELLO DEL SOL

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PR

Santa Sofia

DA

PA

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LIZ

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CA DE M L PIEL SA NS LO ONI

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

CA ’M UT I

BO TA

I GA

LL

LA

DE

CA

AM

CA FOND .

R

RA

Sant'Angelo

S. Toma' SX

San Barnaba

CA

C.

HET

MPIELLO DE LA VIDA

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LA

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

AG

O

DE

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

a Can

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SE

DE

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Palazzo Querini-Dubois

●

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RA

NZE

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RA

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TE

E LL CA

SE

ND

A

CA

DO

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La Bottega dei Mascareri DEL

RO

O

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EC

RI

RA

LL

ND RE

CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA

CAMPO DE LA BECARIE

LE

CA

L’A GN EL LA

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CAL

talon

DE

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CAMPO DEI FRARI

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I

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I

CORTE DEL TEATRO

R

DE

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PRET

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LL

DEI

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CA LL E

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ALLE

SC

CAMPO SAN CASSAN

NA MADO

ET

EL

ST

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OR

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LE

IN

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TI

CALLE

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E

N

FO

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I

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CA

A

CAMPO SAN BOLDO

RAMO

LL

DE

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

MÀ

Basilica dei Frari

Rocco

LL

E

CAMPO SAN STIN

N TO

. S.A

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LA

SA

TA

E CH RI BB FA

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R

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DE

RÀ

EN

LE

OC

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OC

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CA

GR

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CA

DEL MAGAZEN

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AM

DE

LL

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HE

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

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CALLE DE LA LACA

ND

O EG RT PO TO SO

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CA

TE

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

O

E

A

CA

ON

L

M EZ

R

LA TT

NZ

CALLE

O

FO

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L ME

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DE

TO

LA

VE

AT

CALLE

AC

E TR

AM

E

N

C.

DE

LL

ND

LL

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

TI

TA

I

L

LE

CA RUGA BELA

EL

EN

TT

DE

San Giacomo dall'Orio

RUGA VECCHIA

D

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TR AG HET O

O

GI

O

TEG

FON

ITA

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

SAL

LL

CA

RG

A

C.

LA

O DE LA VID A

E

AM

OLA

LL

ND

AR

L’IS

A

G

A’ DE

C

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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

FO

RI

EN

FO

ST UA

San Felice

S.Stae

CRI ST O

I BA

AM

RAM

CALLE SAVIO

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

A DE

D

TER

AD

RG

N

CALLE CAZZA

LIZ

LA

FO

FO ND

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

TI ET OR EM LL CA

C.

San Simeone Profeta

CA LL E DE L LA

UNIQUE IN VENICE RIO

RI

CA

SA

BA

TA

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

C AL

LI S

I CALLE ORSETT

ON O

VA

EN

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

NO

AM

ND

IO

IN

DA

FO

DI

RI VA

TA

BI AS

FO

AM

RA

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

ST

Riva de Biaso

R

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

DEL REMER

nde l Gra Cana

DE L

San Marcuola

CAMPIELLO

O VECCHIO CALLE TRAGHETT

San Geremia

Eredi Jovon

ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI A

Eredi Jovon's cameo

Mo

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PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca 100 m

ROSINA DELLA STRADA

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Chiesa di San Martino

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ISOLA CARBONERA

SAN FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO Convento di San Francesco del Deserto

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ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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Rio de San Gerolamo

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CALLE

Russia Pavilion

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Japan Pavilion

CAR

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NO

CH

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GEN

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SS

CAL

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United States Pavilion

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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

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Monastero Armeno Mechitarista

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Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia

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DE

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San Francesco di Paola BALD

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Punta della Dogana

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Vergini

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CALLE

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FONDAME

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CALLE

LA TANA

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DEI PRETI

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DE LA

CALLE

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de le

CALLE TERCO

CAMPO

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CALLE

RIO

LE

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PISCINA

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ET RS FA

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E N TA

TA A R SE

CROSERA

FORNACE

SALONI

FONDAMENTA

VIDA

DEI FORNI

AMEN

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

TERRÀ

INCURABILI

LA

FONDAMENTA

Arsenale

100 m

Salute

CATECUMENI

RIO

FONDAMENTA

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

CALLE

CALLE DE

FOND

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

DAM

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

CASTELLO

RIDOTTO

RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI

DEI

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

FON

FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI

DI

CALLE

VALLARESSO

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San Martino

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PIETRO

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Moise

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San

CALLE

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

RIO TERRÀ

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

CALLE

SAN

O

DEGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

RUGA VECCHIA

ASCENSIONE

CALLE

EREMITE

DE CALLE

CROSERA

C. VOLTO

LARGA

SARTOR

CALLE

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CALLE

RI

Palazzo Genovese

San Gregorio

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

ROTONDA

L’ARCO

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

CALLE

C. DEL

DEI CORTELLOTTI

DEL

CALLE

PESARO

LUCIA SANTA NTA

PICCOLO

FONDAME

SIMON SAN

nzera

FONDAMENTA

MEZZO CALLE

DI

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ROCCO

DE C.

SAN

ALBANESI

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DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE

RAGUSEI LARGA CALLE

SESTIERE

I

DORSODURO

DEL NOVA ISOLA

Scome De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO

ima

DIREZIONE

Maritt ne

MAGAZZIN

a

AI DIETRO

CALLE

DE

SALIZADA

DEL PIOVAN

Bacin o Stazio

CALLE

S C H I AV

FONDAMENTA

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BASTION

SCUDI

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DE

R I VA D EGLI

SCHIAVONI RIVA

MARTIN SAN

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

VONI

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

VIN CALLE DEL

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

VERONA

le

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DE

DEL

DEL

Palazzo

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LA

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AM

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DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE DELA CREA

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ND

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

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DE L’OGIO

CALLE

DEGLI

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DE

RC

San Zaccaria

SCHIA

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA

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CORTE DELLE GATE

CALLE

DEI

C.

CALLE

PESTRIN

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

DEL

A N M

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

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CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

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Spirito Santo

BIAGIO

FO

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

ZATTERE

SAN

LAVRANERI

Sant'Eufemia

SAN

SALIZADA

San Giovanni di Malta

San Giorgio dei Greci

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

CALLE

VERONA

Cana

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

C. PIANTON

R I VA

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CALLE BOSELLO

DELL’OROLOGIO

LA

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

VAPORETTO

CALLE

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

CALLE

SPECHIERI

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

DEI

DE

FONDAMENTA

C.

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

TERÀ

SA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

San Lorenzo

DRASI

CALLE

RIO

CALLE

LO

DEL CAFETIER

CALLE

GIUFFA

CASSELERIA

SEVERO

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

Palazzo Ducale

MO

DEI PRETI

GATE

RUGA

SAN

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

O

Museo Correr

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

CORTE NOVA

CALLE

DE LE

SAN

CALLE

RC

LATERANO

ZORZI

SALIZADA

CASTELLO

LIO

CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

LARGA

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

MA

SAN

ZZA

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

SALIZADA

REDIVO

CALLE GOLDONI

CALLE

San Moisè

CORTE

NUOVA

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

PIA

DE

FONDAMENTA

FABBRI

C.DEI CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

BARBARIA

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo

DEL CALLE

DEL FORNO

GALLO CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

Rio San Lorenzo

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

SAN

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

CALLE

FONDAMEN TA

LE VIGNOLE

Santa Maria del Pianto

FORNO

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

TASCA

CORTE

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

ZULIAN

CORTE GRAGOLINA

DELLE

SAN

XXII MARZO

O

MUSSATO

CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

NOVE

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

DEL

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

SALIZADA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA DEI

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

C.

C.

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

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SA

LICINI

MEZO

C.

CARRO

CALLE

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CORTE

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DE

CAPITELLO

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SESTIERE

C. LARGA

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DEL

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BALOTE

FREZZERIA

DEL

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

CALLE

San

CALLE

CALLE

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

CALLE

CASTELLI

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

GIAZZO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

MARZARIA

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE LE

FRUTARIOL

DEL

G. GALLINA

MIRACOLI

CALLE

CALLE

SALIZADA

SAN

Rio

CALLE

DEI

Teatro Malibran

CAMPO SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

CALLE ERIZZO

BEMBO

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

RIO

LARGA

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

SAN CANZIAN

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

San Salvador

FONDAM

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

ORBI

CALLE

MADONA

DEI PUTI

DEL

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA

CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

DEI

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

CALLE

SEBASTIAN

CALLE

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CALLE

CALLE

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DE LA SACA

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VI

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AM

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CC

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ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

REMER

CALLE

DE PISCINA

LA CHIESA

CALLE DEL BASTION

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

O DEL

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

CINQUE

C.

DRIO

Teatro la Fenice

Santa Maria del Giglio

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

NOVE

BERLENDIS

COCCO

DEI

CALLE

CALLE

TOSCANA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

DEL FORNO

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

WIDMANN

MAGAZEN

CALLE

LOCANDE CALLE

CALLE

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

E

CALLE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

BOTERI

CALLE

DE

DONZELA

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin

PATERNIN

ASSASSINI

San Fantin

DELLA

SALIZADA

SPIRITO SANTO

BIAGIO

DEI

S.Canciano

FONTEGO

PIO

LUCA SAN

TERÀ

RIO

RAMO

MORETTI

LA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

MAZZINI

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

TEATRO

DEL

CALLE

MANDOLA

CALLE

CAPPUZZI

ZATTERE ALLO

CALLE

SAN

CALLE

FRUTARIOL

PONTE

SACCA SAN

FONDAMENT

LARGA

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

Rialto

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE

Canal Grande

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

SALIZADA

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

CORTE DEL

CAMPO MANIN

TEATRO

CAOTORTA

San Maurizio

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

DE

TODESCHI

Santo Stefano CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

San Vidal

C.SANT'AGNESE

NANI

AI GESUATI

CAL

TERÀ

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

MARCO

CAFETIER

CALLE

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

DEL PISTOR

CALLE

ZATTERE

Zattere

RAVANO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

Palazzo Loredan

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE

FONDAMENTA

RIO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

LARGA

DEL

VENEZIA

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

CALLE

CALLE

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

CALLE

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The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.

TORCELLO

FONDAME

expect to take you custom-made lamp home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.

FONDAMENTA

Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.

As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t

FONDAMENTA

Artistic Glass in Murano

VI

A

M

AL

AM

O

C

C

O

MALAMOCCO Chiesa S. Maria Assunta R I VA G I O VA N N I D I A C O N O

PIAZZA DELLE ERBE

ERÀ RIO T

PARRI

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© SVIDA_WHEREITALIA

DINING

A tasty break… in a green house! First established to host a traditional greenhouse, this space has been transformed into a unique meeting place dedicated to culture and good cuisine. Welcome to the Serra dei Giardini! By Giulia Minero

W

hen it was first founded who would have thought that the Serra dei Giardini would become a place of cultural exchanges, botanical experiences and even food? This glass and wrought iron tepidarium was built in 1894 to house the palm trees and other decorative plants used for the International Art Exhibition. The building, also known as Serra Margherita, is situated in the heart of the Castello district, just steps from the Giardini della Biennale, and was returned to its ancient splendour in the 1990s. After more than a century, when the “serra” was a workplace for generations of gardeners, and a shelter housing those plants that were particularly sensitive to the cold weather, the ‘serra’ has retained its original appearance 34  W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020

with the addition of some contemporary touches. The space, where large glass windows flood the interior with natural light, was enhanced with the addition of wrought iron furniture and decorative elements in wood to house the Caffè La Serra, the ideal place for breakfast, a cup of coffee or a traditional Venetian aperitivo accompanied by tantalizing snacks. Those who want to indulge in a lunch break, or a snack amidst green surroundings, can choose from a small yet well-curated selection of salads, flans or cold and hot specialties prepared using local, seasonal ingredients, accompanied by freshly squeezed juices, smoothies, herbal teas, traditional Italian sweet treats, and other organically farmed products.

>> Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi, 1254 T: 041 2960360. Map H5 www.serradeigiardini.org


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4

L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4

Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4

Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3

Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an

ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4

Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE 1000 Gourmet

PH © MIRCO TOFFOLO

PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitanstyle cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or glutenfree flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4

A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5

Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4

Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3

Japanese inspiration, Brazilian flavours

The best Japanese cuisine, enhanced with the mellow flavours of Brazilian inspiration, takes centre stage in a light-filled space overlooking the Grand Canal. With its decorated ceilings and contemporary furnishings embellished by panels inlaid with floral motifs typical of the Land of the Rising Sun, Sushi Mirai turns heads before you’ve even looked at the menu. Here, the most refined palates in search of a unique culinary experience can savour the creations of Sushiman Dhirendra, including a selection of sushi and hot fish-based antipasti, served in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. At Sushi Mirai, locally sourced premium-quality produce is enhanced with innovative, unusual pairings, giving life to creations like sea urchin Temaki, Uramaki Ebiten with strawberries, marinated Amaebi, Maki Ureboshi with Japanese plums or tartare seasoned according to customers’ requirements. The menu, available in à la carte or tasting versions, can also be enjoyed in the outdoor area overlooking the lagoon. www.miraivenice.com

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DINING

DINING Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served. Antico Martini

Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!

€€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina. Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its Dorsoduro, 780rooms, (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto elegant dining welcoming atmosphere and line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Martini Map E6serves some of attentive staff, the Antico the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini. La Conca d’Oro com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121. Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5 Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, Antico Pignolo this Venetian institution has been turning out The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its some of the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, The traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 a well-stocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria from all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo. stop). Map F4 com. San Marco, 451(Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4

PH © TIMOLINA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

La Porta d’Acqua Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant Da Fiore

KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.

36  W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020

is housed in a 15th century building and decorated A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topwith original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. conjures upyears the aroma of authentic Neapolitan Thirty-five ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin cuisine, thanks ingredients sourced transformed antoold osteria into one ofexclusively the city’s from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. Sanand most famous restaurants. Impeccable service Polo, 1022/bVenetian (Rio Teràdishes San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. superlative composed of carefully Vaporettoseasonal 1 (San Silvestro stop).have Mapmade E4 Da Fiore selected ingredients a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. Lineadombra www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308. Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Map E3 spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. Gran Canal www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, Here you can taste the typical specialties of 19. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto linethe 5.1purest (Zattere stop) or 1 Venetian tradition, featuring expression (Salute Map E5 The restaurant’s main focus is of tastestop). and harmony. on seafoodCipriani and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on Locanda its terrace: the faces directly Forevocative those who want to berestaurant close to Venice, onto theworlds Grandaway, Canalthe offering diners an excellent yet feel Locanda Cipriani opportunity to combine the pleasures of the is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a palate with a stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic €€€. www.hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map F5

Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www. harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5

Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5

restaurant. A farmhouse fromturning the exterior, it of Venetian institution has been out some has best beenpizza renovated with great charm, the in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ exuding (restaurant). an understated elegance with beautiful www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€.Vaporetto www. SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. locandacipriani.com. Piazzastop). Santa Fosca lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria Map F4 29 (Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12 Lineadombra from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then Perched the Off last Map bridge of the most beautiful take the 9online). promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Taverna al Remerdinner where you can enjoy all spot for a romantic Located near to theof Rialto Bridge, this romantic the typical flavours the Venetian lagoon. €€€. ‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. decor, which lends it an intimate, touch. T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 informal (Zattere stop) Although the menu features or 1 (Salute stop). Map E5 simple, traditional dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual Trattoria Do Forni pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. The ownerCannaregio, Eligio Paties5701. has managed to make this alremer.it. T. 041 5228789. restaurant a sought-after distinguished Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Orodestination, stop). by its F3 wide assortment of Venetian fare, thanks to Map the quality of the dishes and a genuine sense of Trattoria Do Forni typically Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces Theremind owner Eligio has managed make will you ofPaties the carriages of thetolegendary this restaurant a sought-after destination, “Orient Express” and pay tribute to the history distinguished its wide assortment of Venetian of Venice. €€€.by www.doforni.it. San Marco, 468 fare, thanks to the quality of the dishesVaporetto and a (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. genuine typicallyMap Venetian line 1 or 2sense (San of Zaccaria). F4 hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Express” and pay tribute Wildner to the history of Fullin Venice. €€€. in www.doforni.it. San Opened by the family 1960, it is patronized Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 relaxed 5232148. by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, Vaporetto line or 2 (San Zaccaria). F4 atmosphere is 1further enhanced by Map a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly Wildner and serves classic Venetian specialties fish-based Opened by‘Baccalà the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized including Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. by localsonand tourists €€€. alike.c/o Its Pensione tranquil, relaxed Closed Tuesdays. Wildner. atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 view Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly or 5.1over (Santhe Zaccaria stop). Map G4 fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 Dal or 5.1Mas (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 Located just a few minutes from the railway station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3

PASTRY SHOPS

Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3

Pasticceria Rosa Salva

This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. La Conca d’Oro www.rosasalva.it. San Marco (Calle Fiubera), Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, haute cuisine of this signature plays on the creative combinations of5227934. T: 041 5210544. San Marco (Mercerie), T: 041 LaThe Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilianrestaurant brothers Italian specialties traditional Venetian www.kempinski.com/it/venice Castello (Campo San Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 Giuseppe and Giovanniand Costa, the founders of the dishes. 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, this

ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.

Terrazza Danieli

Do Leoni

Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com The restaurant masterfully creates epicurean aquarelles beyond expectations that depict delicacies from the Adriatic Sea, and culinary inspirations of modern Venetian and East Mediterranean origin. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes.

Map E5

Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5

De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes. Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables.

L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6

Map F5

Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5

Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1

Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants

Oro

Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. After being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, it received its second star in November 2019. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this

38  W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020

enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef Mara Martin, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3

Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu by chef Massimiliano Alajmo features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but


Š #PHOTODAVIDEBIANCHET

Il Ridotto

Quadri

Glam

wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281. www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. In a corner of paradise just steps away from the island of Burano, its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the island of Mazzorbo, the Dorona di Venezia wine variety has found a magical equilibrium on land that is constantly threatened by salt and water. Venissa is a wine with true personality that is intrinsically linked to its terroir: there is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced each year. Off Map

Venissa

Rosso Venissa

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Osteria da Fiore


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ESSENTIALS

Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi

I

talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 40  W H E R E V E N I C E I M AY 2020

ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.

Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!


FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM

Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE

all pharmacies.

Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.

Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway

Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.

Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città

Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website

of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)

Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass

that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.

GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates

(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com  41


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ISOLA DI TESSERA

ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE

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see page 6

1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA

12 THE GHETTO

2 PALAZZO DUCALE

8 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO

13 MURANO

3 CANAL GRANDE

9 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE

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CA

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LA

DE

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CALLE

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CALLE DELL’ANGELO

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Punta della Dogana

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CALLE

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CALLE

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LA TANA

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DEI PRETI

CALLE

AMEN

TANA

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CALLE

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CAMPO

CALLE

TERRÀ

VIDA

CALLE FRIZIER

PISCINA

LA

C. LOREDANA

RIO

DE

Museo Storico Navale di Venezia

CALLE

SANT'AGNESE

La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale

ARSENALOTTI

CALLE

DEI FORNI

Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE

CROSERA

BRAGADIN

LA CERTOSA

Vergini

CALLE

PISCINA

de le

CASTELLO

FORNACE

FONDAMENTA

LE

DI

FONDAMENTA

CAMPO DELLA SALUTE

Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute

SALONI

INCURABILI

ENA

MOROSINA

FONDAMENTA

Salute

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TERRÀ

CALLE

ARS

PIETRO

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SAN

DEI CORTELLOTTI

DAM

RUGA VECCHIA

RIO TERRÀ

RIO

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DEI

RI

Palazzo Genovese

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SA

FONDAMENTA

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FON

FONDAMENTA

C. VOLTO

ONI

Giardino delle Vergini

Rio

San Martino

CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO

S C H I AV

La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese

RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA

DEL PIOVAN

R I VA D EGLI

La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale

Arsenale di Venezia

Arsenale di Venezia

PESTRIN

GRITTI CALLE

Palazzo Pisani Gritti

Santa Maria del Giglio

DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO

TA

COSMO

FONDAMENTA

DE

CALLE

CROSERA

CALLE DELA CREA

Giudecca Palanca EN

CONVERTITE

CALLE

MARTIN

PISCINA

PIGNATER

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEL LIBRER

CONVERTITE

VECCHIO GHETTO

CERERIA

CALLE

CALLE

LA

SANTA TA

QUERIN,

CALLE

PESARO

LUCIA PICCOLO

FONDAMEN

SIMON SAN FONDAMENTA

MEZZO CALLE

DI

L’ARCHIVIO DRIO CALLE

F. CONDULMER

FON. DEI TOLENTINI

CERERIA LA

ROCCO

DE C.

SAN

ALBANESI

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DEI

CALLE

SBIACCA LARGA

STRETA

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE RAGUSEI

DORSODURO

CALLE

I

CALLE

DE CALLE

CAMIN DEL

RIELLO CALLE

CALLE

O

TRONCHETT

DEL NOVA ISOLA

zera Scomen De

MARITTIMO

Canale

PORTO DIREZIONE

MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE

Maritt ima

ne

SAN

L’ARCO

BASTION

SCUDI

DEL

MAGAZZIN

DEGLI

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

CALLE

SARTOR

AM

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

CALLE

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

ND

DE

SALIZADA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Spirito Santo

FO

FO

CELESTIA

DONA

DE

CALLE

VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

DE

ZATTERE

BIAGIO

Sant'Eufemia

ANTONIN

Arsenale

LAVRANERI

CALLE

GATE

LARGA

SAN

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

DRASI

SCHIA

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

100 m

FONDAMENT A

CALLE

DE LE

DEGLI

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

O

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

PONTE

CALLE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE

R I VA

SAN

SALIZADA

SALIZADA

AI

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE ERIZZO

CALLE

TODESCHI

RC

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

Stazio

CALLE

San Lorenzo

Rio San Lorenzo

DEI PRETI

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

C. DEI

A N M

CALLE

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

VERONA

nde Canal Gra

SA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

DEL CAFETIER

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

SEVERO

RUGA

SAN

LA

MINELLI

Palazzo Ducale

LO

ZORZI

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

O

MO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

DIETRO

Santa Maria del Pianto

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

SCHIAVONI

DEGLI

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CASTELLO

ORBI

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

SESTIERE

BARBARIA

DEI

FABBRI

DE

RC

Museo Correr

RIVA

CORTE

NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

DEL

LARGA

CALLE

MA

SAN

ZZA

NTA

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAME

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CALLE

DELL’OROLOGIO

C.

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

DEL

DEL

PIA

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

SPECHIERI

C.

PISCINA

VERONA

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CALLE

DEL FORNO

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

LA

CROSERA

CALLE

DE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

C.

DEL

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

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LARGA

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

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CORTE

C.DEI

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

FREZZERIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

ZULIAN

GALLO

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

TERÀ

DEL

RIO

CALLE

DE

MOISE’

XXII MARZO

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

C.

C. DE LE COLONNE

SA PISCINA

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA

DEI

CALLE

REDIVO

CALLE

CALLE GOLDONI

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

DEL

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

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C.

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

REMER

CALLE

FABBRI

CALLE

DE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

CASSELERIA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

San

CALLE

CALLE

Rio

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

DEL

TAGIAPIERA LE

LIO

BEMBO

SAN

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE NOVA

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DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

CALLE

SAN

CALLE

MADONA

San Fantin CALLE

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

VENEZIA

NOVE

CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

LICINI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

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VARISCO

CASTELLI

SALIZADA

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

MARZARIA

C.

C.

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

MAGAZEN

FRUTARIOL

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C. LARGA

CORTE

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

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LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

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Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

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DEI

O

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

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CALLE

DOLERA

DEL

Teatro la Fenice

San Gregorio

DEL FORNO

LUCA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

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SALIZADA

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COCCO

CALLE CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

DEI

GIAZZO

CAMPO

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C. DEL

SABION

San Salvador

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA

SALIZADA

SANTO

DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAPPUZZI

TEATRO

ASSASSINI

CALLE

CAMPO

SAN BORTOLOMIO

X

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

CALLE

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin CALLE

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CALLE

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

DEI PUTI

CALLE

SPIRITO

TERÀ

RIO

MAZZINI

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CAMPO MANIN

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

ZATTERE

CINQUE

C.

SAN CALLE

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

FONDAMENTA ALLO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

CALLE

DEL

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Giudecca Hilton

DEI

Santo Stefano

Accademia

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

AI GESUATI

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

LE

CALLE

DE

VOLTI

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia NANI

nde G ra

SAN

CROSERA

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

TOSCANA

SAMUELE

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli) CALLE

DEL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

DE

S.

San Vidal

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

PRIULI

CALLE

DONZELA

LEZZE

CARROZZE

DEL PISTOR

NOVE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

NOVA

PESCARIA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Fortuny

NARISI

FALIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DELLA

LA

FOND.

CALLE

LONGO

IA

RAVANO

DEL

CALLE

LE

Abazia della Misericordia D

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TRAPOLIN

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DE

enzera

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Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

AM

DE

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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

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Palazzo Querini-Dubois

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Basilica dei Frari

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San Rocco

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Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

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Palazzo Soranzo Capello

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11 San Siro

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4

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Copyright Proedi Comunicazione. © 2020

5

10

LEGENDA

SHOPPING AREAS

A

1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

B

3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 4 Via Dante

C

5 Via Torino 6 Brera-Solferino

D

7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 8 Corso Buenos Aires

10

9 Corso XXII Marzo 10 Navigli-Porta Ticinese

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F

ENTERTAINMENT AREAS

TOP IN TOWN See page 8

G

Navigli (G8-G9) | Brera (H5) | Corso Garibaldi & Corso Como (H3) | Porta Venezia (G3-H3) Arco della Pace-Piazza Sempione (F4-G4) | Isola (H1-I1) | CityLife (C2-C3) | Porta Romana

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Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice Mestre Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) VENIC E CITY GUIDE Villa Barbarich – Via Molino Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Villa Patriarca Hotel – Via Miranese, 25 Mirano - (Ve)

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