VENICE CITY GUIDE ®
DECEMBER 2019
W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE
ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE How to make your Christmas in the city unique ALL YOU CAN DO IN VENICE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
V enice through a lens Top events, treasures and places to be
吃喝玩乐 尽在这里
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
Venice December 2019 38
30
SIGHTSEEING
the guide
DINING
22 SHOPPING
New trends and design meet in St. Mark’s Square at the latest Christian Dior boutique.
BAGARON C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
30 DINING
GIFT GUIDE Pomellato
36 ENTERTAINMENT
Parco San Giuliano
OND ROT
CAN
LA
GA
DE
LAR
LE
LE
CAL
CAL
ITEL
E
A
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ROS
CC
GA
VE
A
E
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RT
LA
DE
CALLE
NA
ERI
i stol ti Apo San
I
DE LA PIETA’
TA
AMEN
FOND
BILI
INCURA
FONDA
MENTA
ZATTER
E ALLO
SPIRIT
O SANTO
FONDAME
VAPOR
CALLE ZUCCHERO
ETTO
E AI GESUA TI
DE LA SACA
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RI
PON
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LAVR
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LLA STE
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ti
LE CAL
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CALL
ANA CALLE
BRESS
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NO
DOSE E DEL CALL
O
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CANONI DE LA
LEONARD O
CALLE RIMPETTO
SAN
CALLE
CA
CALLE DE LE RASSE
LARGA
LA SACRESTIA
DEL
LE
CAL
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
LE CAL
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
EDIO REM
San Giovanni No C. CORONA
IOL
SO
TAR
PAR
FRU
ADI
CORTE
NUOVA
DEL
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NAVE
VOLT
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DEL
C.
LE
CAL
SAN T’AN TON IO
CAL LE
ZULIAN
BALBI CALLE
PISCIN A SAN
BAL OTE LE DE CAL LE
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
LE CAL
C. PIA
O
Palazzo Ducale
LO
SA
A N M
RC
R I VA
O
S. Zaccaria (
VONI SCHIA
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
NI
Punta della Dogana
LO SA AI RE TE ZAT
Chiesa San Giorgio M
TA EN AM ND
S. Giorgio
CALLE DELA CREA
Spirito Santo
NTA ZATTERE
Spirito Santo CALLE
CALLE
DE L MAGAZEN
DON
CALLE
CALLE
COR
dei
C.SAN T’ANT ONIO
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CALLE
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Santa Maria Formosa Pala Grim
BANDE
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FO
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Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
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IEL
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lla O DE L’A M BAZIA iser icor dia
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NESI
LI
ALBA
LIPO
CALL
DURO
RE DORSO
RIO
Moise
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
TERRÀ
CORTE
HIVIO
L’ARC
SESTIE
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
Salute
RIO
SANT'A
DEGLI
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
DEL FORNO
MO
RIVA
C
CORTE TREVISAN
I
Palazzo Genovese
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PISCINA
I MARTIR
San
RIDOTTO
ESSO
TREDIC
Rio
CALLE
VALLAR
CALLE
TA
CA TAS
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
RC
Museo Correr
CALLE
AMEN
MA
SIONE
FOND
O
ASCEN
RIO TERA’ OGNISANTI
LARGA
MENTA
CALLE
OTTI
O SAT MUS
Basilica di San Marco
O
DEI CORTELL
O
ETT
CALLE
LE CAL
I BALON
O PELL CAP
SAN
Osped
Basili Santi Giova
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
o Palazz
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ZZA
CALLE GABRI ELI
A
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
CA
E BIAN CALL
ALL CAV
ORS
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IS
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DEL
DEL TRAGHETTO
DEL
GRAG LE COLONNE DE
NO
ND
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Santa Maria del Giglio
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
CALLE
À
San Moisè
CALLE
CALLE
ZO
MEZ
CALL
E DI
F. CONDULMER
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IA
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CE
LA
DE
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CCA
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CALL
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SE
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MA
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TER
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E
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DEL
Rio Del
AI
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LARGA
DE LE ERBE
San Giuliano
Bacino Orseolo
EN
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CALLE
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IAPIE RA
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DAM
LL
CA
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOL
CALLE DEL C.MAR PIOMB TINEN O GO D. PALLE
CORTE
RUBBI
MEZ O
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CA
CALLE
ND
ERI
ORBI
ZIO
N
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
DE
BOT
CORTE CORTESE
CALLE
E DEI CALL
LE
FON
SARTOR
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
MENTA
FO DEI
E DEI
RE
MAN
ERIA SEL CAS
DEL
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
CORTE BAROZZI
GA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
WID
C. LARGA
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CAMPIELLO STELLA
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DI
LE
I
DE LA FAVA
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CAP
DEI
MOIS
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DEL
XXII MARZO
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
SAN
C.
FRUTAR
OL
CAMPO CALICE
LE CAL
SA
AC
CORTE GRAGOLINA
ERIA
CALLE
LE
VAR ISCO
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
I MIR
GIAZZO
OLINA
C. DE LE COLONNE
NA
GALIAZ ZO
C. DEL
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LE
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NA
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DE
CAMPO SAN LIO
SALVAD OR
LE CAL
I
CALLE
FREZZ
CALLE
ITELL O CORTE C.DE TRAMONTIN L TAG
BRI FAB
VERO
CORTE
MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
A DE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
S.Canciano
RIO
SALIZA
C. DEL
SAN
C.DE
DEI
LA
Santa Maria del Giglio
DEL
MINELL
CALLE
PISCIN
LA CHIESA
Teatro la Fenice
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
CAL LE
C O RT E B ATA G I A
DA
r
DEL
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
MAR ZARI A DEL
LE CAL
CALLE
DRIO
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
X
SABION
do
NDE LOCA
San Fantin
CAL
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CAL
RAMO
O
CORTE DEL
MARZA RIA
lva
DE
R
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R
RIOL
Teatro Malibran
San Salvador Sa
A LUC
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
CALLE
MAZ ZINI
CORTE
n
SAN
CALLE
I
C.
om en
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CANZIAN A SAN
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
Sa
RO TEAT
LE CAL
FONTEG
PIO
Rio
OPIA PISC
SSIN
BON CAR
OLA
ASSA
DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CALLE
Sc
E VENIE
CORTE DEL REMER
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
IZA
BO BEM
DEL
RNIN PATE
MAND
LE CAL
ONA
le
CALL
SARTORI
TERÀ
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LE CAL
E CALL
SAN
TERÀ
LARG A
SAN SALVADOR
TEATRO
VER
na
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CALL
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LA
Ca
PIC
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ON
FO
SIM
SAN
ENT A
DAM
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Sco
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TIM
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MA
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PO
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Chiesa dei Gesuiti
E VOLT
REMER
DI
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O DEL
QUE
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ENTA
COCCO
CIN
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DAM
CALLE
DEI
A
LE
CAN
ion
SI
TOS
C. DEL
MARCO
ETIE
San Gregorio
DEL FORNO
ORE
DE
A
CAF
RTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CALLE DEL NAVARO
HE BRIC FAB
LE
E
RIO
DE
SALIZADA
CATEN
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
RINA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
SALI ZZA DA
CAMPO MANIN
CALLE DEL BASTION
A
VE
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CAL
E CALL
CALL
DEL
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
CHIES
ULI
LE
ON
TEA TR O
C.
UZZI
LE
CAOTO
Canal Grande
DELLA
NO
CALLE
CALL
San Giacomo di Rialto
ANG
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
DE L
DOL
CAPP
LLI CAVA
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
CALLE
CATE
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
CAL LE
E CALL
GO
TA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
San Maurizio
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
PRI
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
NER COR
taz
TE
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
San Silvestro
CAL
CALLE
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
CALLE
NO
E CALL
oS
EN
REA
SALIZAD
N
Santo Stefano
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
E
VA
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GNES
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FOND.
ENT A
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
NT'A
DAM
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
STU
C.SA
NO
DEI
RAVA
DEL
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
SI
CAMPO PISANI
SAN
FON
Santa Sofia
DA
DEL
ETA
Palazzo Grimani
SAN
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia NANI
RA
LE
E STRE
TR
L
LA
ISO
AM
CAL
San Beneto San Luca
BOT EGH E
IER
ENTA
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
CAL
LE CAL
e and l Gr
Palazzo Fortuny
. NARI
DAM
FOND
FON
CAL
RUGH
DON SAN PER
TI OCA
FAL
ST
PAR
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
Sant’Aponal DEL
MAN
DEI LAVRANE
LE
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
Zattere
Giudecca Hilton
FISOLA
LARGA
FOND
DE
FON
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STU A
CAM DEL PIEL SAN LO SON I
AMP ANE
À
CALLE CHIESA
CAR
AVV
DELLA
LE
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
CRO SER A
Accademia
FONDA
CALLE
ND
w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 1
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENT O BEATE GIULIANA CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
SACCA
DE
TER
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
LE
a
DI SAN MARCO
E UEL SAM
San Vidal
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
SACCA
FO
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUT I
CARAMPANE À
LE
LINI
TER
CA’
BOT A
CAMPO SAN BENETO CA LLE
Palazzo Loredan
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
LA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
RIO
BON
LA
CAL
LON
DE
DE
C.
TE
S.
S. Samuele
CAL
CALLE
DEL
ANI GRIM
PON
CHI TODES
E AL
ENTA
DA IZA SAL
OZZE CARR
IN
N
E CALL
CA’
C. DEI
E DE CALL
LE
Ca' Rezzonico
San Trovaso DAM
MI
ZI
CAL LE
VEC CHI CORT A E LEZZE
OL
GALIZ
S. Toma' SX
RAMO
AP
S.Silvestro
SESTIERE
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
I
RIO
Sant'Angelo
LE SAMUE
SANT
CAL LE
CAL LE
RIN PEST
OGNI
L’AG NEL LA
Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CALLE BERNARDO
TR
San Cassiano
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
San Tomà
SERA
. DE
ZI
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
A
San Barnaba
TIOZ
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
CAMPO SAN POLO
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
TA
CAMPO APONAL
A S. PISCIN
O
EN
DEI
SER
DEI
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
CAMPO DEI FRARI
IA
C.
CRO
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
ER
E CRO
TER
INI
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
A
LE
LE
E DEL CALL
L’ASE
FON
ZAT
LET
O
E DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
TI
FOND
NTA
SCA
TOMÀ
Basilica dei Frari
CAL
C.
INI
DEL
CALL
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
AME
C.
O
ZEL
I
CAL
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
CA’BCAL ONVLE DE INC
SAN POLO
DEI PUTI
IAN
FOD S. Basilio
OR
E ZANE
CALLE
AST
DE OGNISAN
NT
HETT
CALL
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TE
DO
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FONDAM
NT AR
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A
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
CALL
TTO
R
FOMO
Chiesa di Ognissanti
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
L
RA
CAL LE
CAMPO SAN STIN
nde Canal Gra
SCOAZZERA DE LA E
LE PAZIENZ
A ENT
IO
DE
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
BOL
TRAG
cin
SAN
E DEL
Ba
C.
CALL
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DEL
CO
San Felice
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
O
ND
AM
IC
DON
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CA
Santa Fosca
MADONA
ORE
DE
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DEL
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TA
ND
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LE
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EN
CALLE
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gh
N
AM
FO
IS
LA
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SAN
ND
NA
M
DE
CAL
MEZ
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Car
Santa Maria dei Carmini
OCHE
DE
GHE
del
TERÀ
TA
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
TRA
I
Rio
DAM
BESAG
RIO
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
CALL
TA
DE
ESI
ne
TALO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
FON
DA SAN
A
LE
DEL
IAT
E
E
LE
NI
DORSODURO
LAC
IA
San Rocco
Mu
PAN
NUOVO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
SALIZA
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
LA
DAR
EN
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
E DOL
N
le
FON
San Pantalon
O
EN
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CAL
BR
CALL
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LE
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A SAN
tini
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CALL
DE LA
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LA
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LE
DE
D
CALL
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de
C.
ALE
RAMO
IZAD
Rio dei Tolen
FONDA
DE LA VIDA
San Giacomo dall'Orio CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
CALLE ORSETTI
ZO
CIM
O
SAL
Ma
C.
CIM
PAZ
O
RIO TERA’
AR
CALLE SAN BASILIO
LA TT
RAMO
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA BELA
O
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
GU
EN
San Sebastiano
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
LA
NZAT
CALLE DELL'OLIO
O
RAM
CANAL RIO TERA’
LLE
AM
C.VE
CALLE DE LA LACA
CAM
LE
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
CA
ND
DE
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
C.
TOR
OTT
en
CAL
SSA
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
TI
TIN
gaz
RO
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
I
TA
NA
FO
DD
La Maddalena
SA
L’ISOLA
DEL
Ma
I
DON
OT
EN
DE
LE
ENT A MIN
CALLE
NTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
LAR
RZ
AM
TERA’
CAL
Del
USE
Angelo Raffaele
O
LE
I
DAM
CALLE CONTARINA
ME
FO
CAL
ND
L
BAR
E
NA
RIO
CALLE CAZZA
RUGA VECCHIA
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
DEI
I
CAL
Rio
Rio
FO
lla
ETTI MOR
GA
CH
URATI
I
DA
’
RIELO
OLO
LORENZ
NIC
C. SAN
LE
LAR
AS
CERER
RE
SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CAL
NE
TA PROC
ERI
DE L’OGIO
L' ARZE
A A MART SANT
LUN
RAG
TA DE
TA
EO
TA RIZZI
FON
AMEN
AMEN
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
LA
E
LE
FOND
FOND
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
SIM
DEI
DE
DEI AMAI
CAL
MENTA
N
AMEN
LA
FONDA
DEI FONTEGH
CALLE
PO
RT
CA
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
A
RAM
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CAZZIO
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A
CALLE
SA
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MENTA
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CO
VE
CAM
FONDA
LA
A OV
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TERÀ
FOND
DE
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San Nicola da Tolentino
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FOND
CALLE
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PENS
C.
LLE
RG
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A
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CO
CAS
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ICA
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DE
TERÀ
VA
TA FABBR
CC
E
NUO
AMEN
VE
RIO
LE
FOND
O
CAL
TRONCHETTO
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA
FO
Soranzo Cappello
I
EA
E
PAPADOPOLI
DR
Palazzo FO Soranzo NDAMEN Capello TA GA
Giardino di Palazzo
NTIN
'AN
OC
TOLE
FONDAMENTA
NT
CR
. LA
. DEI
Sant'Andrea
SA
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Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste. S A N TA C R O C E Real temples of cuisine where tradition, innovation and research meet. Discover the new list of restaurants from the Michelin Guide 2020. DORSODURO I SC
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Follow us on Instagram @where_venice
Several charming destinations in Veneto, infused with nature, history and art.
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34 MICHELIN-STARRED NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
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www.whereitalia.com/venice Download all issues www.magzter.com Digital magazine store
With its markets, osterie and artisanal 'botteghe', this is one of the most authentic sides of Venice.
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Livio Seguso, Il Gioco (1980). Clear glass and stainless steel. On show at Museo del Vetro (Murano) until 12 April 2020.
Information and tips to experience the best that Venice has to offer.
33 TOP HOTEL
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December is the gift-giving month par excellence. Take advantage of the holiday season to purchase special gifts for your loved ones.
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44 ESSENTIALS
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吃喝玩乐 尽在这里
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS
10 GIFT GUIDE
The best fashion designers in Venice for your high-end shopping.
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Top events, treasures and places to be
TOP BRANDS
ROCC
V enice through a lens
art exhibitions, and events.
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P O R T O M A R GThis H Emonth's R A round-up of shows,
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Teatro La Fenice, one of Italy’s most prestigious opera houses, is a symbol of Venice.
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ALL YOU CAN DO IN VENICE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
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ITALIAN-STYLE GIFT GUIDE How to make your Christmas in the city unique
Contents
DELLE
W W W.WHEREITALIA.COM/ VENICE
CALLE
DECEMBER 2019
38 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS
ISOLA CAMPALTO
MENTA
®
FONDA
VENICE CITY GUIDE
ISOLA DI TES
Located just two hours from Venice, the Dolomites are an ideal destination for a weekend getaway, especially in winter.
CALLE DEL
10
Harry's bar is a mustvisit destination, renowned for its sophisticated, oldworld atmosphere.
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WELCOME TO VENICE Welcome to Venice dear visitor. During these autumn months, the Lagoon sometimes makes us remember the nature of this magical city. Suddenly the waters rise and show us a different side of the city. This makes your visit and our lives more difficult. But it’s when the waters cover the city that Venice goes back in Andrea Jarach history to a time when its founding fathers took Publisher refuge in the environment created by the waters Where ® and their magical equilibrium. Despite the huge mobile dams that now exist, nature still performs its eternal job. So, if you’re visiting Venice during these days, in spite of the challenges, you will live the experience that defined the city for centuries. Live the experience and be patient. Venice is water but sometimes water is Venice.
YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®
www.whereitalia.com/venice PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE
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Alessandra Finzi (redazione@whereitalia.com) CONTRIBUTORS
Carey Bernitz, Romena Brugnerotto, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY
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City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2019 MARKETING & ADVERTISING
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Cristina Garbini (cristina.garbini@whereitalia.com) REG. TRIB. MILANO NO. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)
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11 MUSEUMS, 1 TICKET The Museum Pass is a combined ticket that offers access to all the permanent collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated museums. The Pass is valid for 6 months and allows one entry per museum site. Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is valid for: the Museum of St Mark's Square (Doge's Palace, Museo Correr, Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana), Ca' Rezzonico-Museum of 18th-Century Art, Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo and Museum of Textiles and Costumes, Carlo Goldoni's House, Ca' Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art + Oriental Art Museum, Glass Museum in Murano, Lace Museum in Burano and Museum of Natural History.
Doge's Palace
2 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it Call center 848 082000. From abroad +39 041 42730892.
Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.
EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICE IS AVAILABLE ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. VENICE.WHEREITALIA.COM/DISTRIBUTION
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MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP EXECUTIVE CHAIRMAN William S. Morris III PRESIDENT & CEO William S. Morris IV MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE Chris Manning
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[ SIGHTSEEING]
Top in town 1
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 4 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 1 4 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
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CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 6 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its
name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 5 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a
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pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561.
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 2 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 3
SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 7 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
CHRISTMAS CONCERT
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THE GOLD OF ST.MARK’S
Every year it’s customary to stage DECEMBER the traditional Christmas Concert of the Fondazione Teatro La Fenice, under the magnificent golden mosaics of St. Mark’s Basilica. The Choir of the Marciana Chapel, conducted by Maestro Marco Gemmani, will perform evocative sonatas and arias by Giovanni Legrenzi, an Italian composer and organist of the Baroque era. Giovanni Legrenzi - Christmas at St. Mark’s 1670 Basilica di San Marco www.teatrolafenice.it
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DECEMBER
HOT DATES Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating Italian traditions, art and music or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
© MICHELE CROSERA
BY ELENA PEVERATA
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WHERE NOW | HOT DATES EXHIBITION
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FLEMISH TREASURES
► The exhibition titled ‘From Titian to Rubens. SEPTEMBER MARCH 2019 2020 Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections’ at Palazzo Ducale treats visitors to a breathtaking sight: the magnificent Doge’s apartments decorated with the greatest masterpieces from the rich Flemish collections. In addition to canvases of inestimable worth by artists including Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Michiel Sweerts, the exhibition showcases a dazzling array of sophisticated works. These masterpieces from Flemish collections are rarely lent, and some of them are being shown to the public for the first time.
From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections. Palazzo Ducale - Appartamento del Doge, San Marco 1. www.visitmuve.it
HERITAGE
TITIAN, JACOPO PESARO, BISHOP OF PAPHOS, BEING PRESENTED BY POPE ALEXANDER VI TO SAINT PETER (1511-1513 CA.) © ROYAL MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS ANTWERP.
GLASS
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CRYSTAL DREAMS
▼ This exhibition is a major tribute to Livio Seguso, the brilliant master of contemporary glass. A native of Venice, Seguso broke with Murano’s OCTOBER APRIL 2019 2020 traditional heritage to concentrate on pure, iridescent, transparent crystal. His works are an expression of absolute purity, ‘Images of light’ transformed into a series of dream-like shapes. The exhibition also features several large-scale works, in which crystal is combined with steel, stone, marble and wood.
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THE MARVELS OF A MUSEUM REDISCOVERED
▲ After four centuries, this exceptional exhibition celebrates the temporary return to Palazzo Grimani of the collection of classical statues and furniture that once belonged to Patriarch of Aquileia, Giovanni Grimani. The works are displayed in the sequence of rooms (the Camaron d'Oro, Sala a Fogliami and Antitribuna), leading to the Tribuna, which was built to house more than 130 sculptures, amongst the most precious in the collection.
MAY 2019
MAY 2021
Domus Grimani 1594-2019. The collection of classical sculptures reassembled in its original setting after four centuries. Museo di Palazzo Grimani di Santa Maria Formosa. Castello, 4858 polomusealeveneto.beniculturali.it
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LIVIO SEGUSO. In the beginning it was a drop. Museo del Vetro. Murano. museovetro.visitmuve.it LIVIO SEGUSO, DOPPIA ELLISSE (1979). PHOTO © TAKAKO SAKURADA
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29 1 DECEMBER 2019
FERDINANDO SCIANNA, MARPESSA , CALTAGIRONE, 1987 © FERDINANDO SCIANNA
EVENTS NEW YEAR’S EVE IN VENICE ▼ La Fenice’s New Year’s Eve concert is one of the highlights
JANUARY of the festive season. The concert 2020
is broadcast live on the morning of 1 January in numerous countries throughout the world. The 17th edition of this prestigious event, comprising a two-part program, will once again be conducted by Myung-Whun Chung, director of Teatro La Fenice’s Orchestra and Choir (see photo). The first part is purely orchestral and will feature a performance of Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy’s Symphony No. 4 in A major, while the second part, involving the participation of soloists and the Choir, will be dedicated to melodrama. As tradition dictates, the concert will end with the chorus ‘Va’ pensiero’ from Nabucco, and the ‘Libiam ne’ lieti calici’ toast from Giuseppe Verdi’s La traviata. New Year’s Eve Concert Teatro La Fenice. Campo San Fantin, 1965 www.teatrolafenice.it
MYUNG-WHUN CHUNG © SILVIA LELLI
JANUARY 2020 6 January Regata delle Befane A costumed race between members of the Bucintoro. FEBRUARY 2020 8-25 February Carnival of Venice Shows, masked parades and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces. One of the most thrilling open-air costume extravaganzas. APRIL 2020 25 April Festa di San Marco or Feast of St. Mark In addition to being a national holiday, on this day Venetians also celebrate St. Mark, the patron saint of the city. MAY 2020 23-24 May Festa della Sensa or Ascension festivity A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’ ceremony.
PHOTOGRAPHY
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A REPORTER’S LIFE
▲ This retrospective is dedicated to renowned AUGUST FEBRUARY Sicilian photographer 2019 2020 Ferdinando Scianna, a key figure on the contemporary international scene, and the first Italian reporter to become a member of the prestigious Magnum photographic agency. The exhibition traces more than 50 years of the Sicilian photographer’s career through 180 black and white photos, divided into three sections, alongside a series of fashion images that Scianna shot in Venice, testifying to his close relationship with the Lagoon city.
Ferdinando Scianna. Journey Story Memory. Casa dei Tre Oci. Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43 – Giudecca. www.treoci.org
23 May-29 November Biennale Architettura 2020 “How will we live together?” will be the theme of the 17th International Architecture Exhibition. Architect and scholar Hashim Sarkis is the curator of the exhibition. 31 May Vogalonga 45th edition of the 30 km rowing marathon from the Northern lagoon to the islands: a colourful event open to both professionals and amateurs. JUNE 2020 23-28 June Feast of San Piero de Casteo JULY 2020 18 July Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features a parade of boats in the Giudecca canals, and fireworks.
SEPTEMBER 2020 2-12 September International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art The 77th Venice International Film Festival is organized by La Biennale di Venezia, and runs at Lido di Venezia. The Festival also organises retrospectives and tributes to major figures. 6 September Regata Storica /Historic Regatta One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft. 11 September-11 October Homo Faber An unprecedented showcase of the finest European craftsmanship at the Fondazione Giorgio Cini (Isola di San Giorgio): an international cultural event to showcase fine contemporary, traditional and rare craftsmanship and its link to the world of creativity and design. w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
Gift
Guide
▼ CA' MACANA One of the purest expressions of Venetian craftsmanship, this ‘Eye Mask Ketty 3’ in papier-mâché is entirely handmade and decorated according to age-old techniques. www.camacana.com
Take advantage of the holiday season to give a special gift for your loved ones and to make your Christmas in Venice unique. Where® brings you a pick of the best seasonal trends and guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!
▲ BOTTEGA VENETA The ‘Daisey’ bag is created in a new eco-sustainable material produced in Italy and obtained thanks to the recycling of natural fennel fibres and cork processed by hand using a special press to obtain a structured, waterproof material. www.bottegaveneta.com
FOR HER ◄ FURLA The reversible ‘Belvedere’ belt is crafted in smooth, printed calf skin. Embellished with the Furla Shield logo in shiny galvanized bronze, it lends itself to all types of ensembles. www.furla.com
▼ JIMMY CHOO In bubblegum-pink and red leather, this chic ‘Love’ pump is designed with a dramatic pointed toe, and cut higher on the foot, to allow for more coverage. The thin 85mm stiletto heel is suited to both day and nighttime wear. www.jimmychoo.com ► PRADA Prada’s accessories for this season include the Saffiano wallet featuring an elegant, minimalist design, illuminated by logo lettering and a zip. The zipper pull with an enameled metal triangle charm adds a vibrant touch to the whole. www.prada.com
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▼ OTTICA MANTOVANI Not only sun and prescription glasses, advanced and comfortable lenses, and fashionable frames, but also unique models like this pair inspired by one of the brand’s most famous clients and icons of style, Peggy Guggenheim. www.otticamantovani.com
▼ LORO PIANA Gloves in knitted vicuña, with palms in tonal Capibara leather. The combination of these two materials gives the gloves a sporty, sophisticated feel, adding an exclusive touch to more elegant outerwear. it.loropiana.com
FOR HIM
▲ VERSACE Inspired by the anatomy of the great white shark, the outsole of the ‘Squalo’ sneakers evokes the shape of the animal's jaws. Leather details feature signature Versace top-stitching as a celebration of the brand’s heritage. www.versace.com
▼ FRATELLI ROSSETTI Cap toe Oxford shoe made of calfskin. The special artisanal treatment gives the leather a shiny effect. The upper recalls the style of the Anglo-Saxon Oxford shoe with jagged edging and holes. www.fratellirossetti.com
▼ CHURCH'S Original and practical, this folding travel shoe horn with a pouch is available in red, blue, petrol blue, walnut, green, light brown and black. www.church-footwear.com
▲ LOUIS VUITTON The ‘Christopher’ backpack is an ideal everyday accessory. A versatile model, with outdoor appeal, it is characterized by its roomy interior and sophisticated style. it.louisvuitton.com
► GIORGIO ARMANI Elegant, and in perfect Armani style, this Fedora-style hat is made from wool and rabbit fur with a laser-cut brim and contrasting ribbon detail. www.armani.com
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
▲ CAFFÈ FLORIAN Established in 1720, Caffè Florian serves a blend of coffee beans named ‘Venezia 1720’ (pictured here in a beautifully decorated tin) and created exclusively for the brand: 100% Arabica from Brazil and Central America. www.caffeflorian.com
TO TASTE ▲ VIZIOVIRTÙ Renowned for its artisanal creation of chocolates, biscuits, candies, peanut brittle and all types of sweet artistic creations, these soft-centred pralines are one of the prize products sold at this famous Venetian chocolate shop. www.viziovirtu.com
► FERRERO ROCHER A unique specialty offering a multisensory taste experience. A tempting combination of smooth chocolaty cream surrounding a whole hazelnut within a delicate, crisp wafer all enveloped in milk chocolate and finely chopped hazelnuts, wrapped in sparkling gold foil. An elegant box that brings glamour to every occasion. Available at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. www.dfs.com ◄ TORREFAZIONE CANNAREGIO A re-visitation of the classic ‘Bacio di Dama’, enriched with a touch of Cafè Remer which enhances the delicate flavour of the pastry. These ‘Basi in Gondola’ are a delectable specialty that pair perfectly with a cup of coffee. www.torrefazionecannaregio.it
▲ DOLCE&GABBANA This high quality product is based on a collaboration between the creativity of Dolce&Gabbana and the confectionery artistry of Fiasconaro: typical Milanese panettone revisited with the ingredients and flavours of Sicily. A perfect blend of tradition and modernity. www.dolcegabbana.it
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► CA’ DEL BOSCO A Franciacorta Rosé from pinot nero grapes: a meticulous vinification and seven years’ patient refinement in the bottle. ‘Cuvée Annamaria Clementi Rosé’ is dedicated to the woman who founded Ca' del Bosco. Available at T Fondaco dei Tedeschi. www.dfs.com
◄ SWAROVSKI Designed to add a joyful touch of sparkle to your home, this Christmas set includes ‘Santa’s Hat’ – perfect for hanging on the tree – and the traditional star available in a brilliant red version with 90 facets. www.swarovski.com ▲ SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Aptly named ‘Convivio’, this room fragrance celebrates the art of joie de vivre and sharing. The top notes are Calabrian bergamot, grapefruit and carrot seed, followed by sophisticated base notes of cashmere wood, frankincense and ambrox. www.salvatoreferragamo.com
▲ ST ORIGAMI A real ‘work of art’, this reproduction of the Basilica di San Marco has been created to decorate greeting cards. A technique that combines the ancient art of origami with the vibrancy of a pop-up movement. www.storigami.it
▲ TESSITURA LUIGI BEVILACQUA Upholstered in a sophisticated velvet called ‘Fresie’, this lined cushion has a zipper closure. An expression of superb Venetian craftsmanship. www.luigi-bevilacqua.com
HOME
▼ TOD'S Scented candle with Blue Sky fragrance and Tod's logo, embellished by geometric detailing on the lid. To warm the atmosphere, during the cold winter season. www.tods.com
◄ VENINI The vases of the new ‘Tonino Lamborghini’ collection embody the excellence of Italian design, amidst ancient glass working techniques, sculptoral gestures and references to the Toro brand’s heritage of mechanical engineering. venini.com
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
▼ BURBERRY The new ‘Fresh Glow Gel Stick’ is an innovative aloe vera and water gel-based foundation and concealer that provides flawless, medium to high coverage with weightless wear. it.burberry.com
BEAUTY
▼ CHANEL A scented body gel that exudes all the freshness and softness of the notes of N°5. Inspired by the silky harmony of rose and jasmine, ‘Fragments d’Or’ leaves the skin delicately scented. www.chanel.com
▼ THE MERCHANT OF VENICE Together with ‘Venetian Blue’ and ‘Red Potion’, this new ‘Rosa Moceniga’ set, featuring a stylized reproduction of Ca’ d’Oro, is a gift idea for women who enjoy pampering themselves. www.themerchantofvenice.com
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▲ HUGO BOSS Eau de toilette and shower gel from ‘The Scent’ line; a new, attractive men’s perfume. This irresistible fragrance features notes of ginger, exotic maninka and leather. www.hugoboss.com
▲ DIOR This ‘5 Couleurs’ limited edition couture palette, featuring chromatic harmonies to create dazzling party makeup looks, and the Diorific Vernis’ nail enamel, a top coat of colourful glitter, are part of the new ‘Happy 2020’ collection. www.dior.com
► SALVADORI DIAMOND ATELIER A part of the ‘Dolfin’ collection – the Venetian word for prow iron – these white and yellow gold earrings embellished with 87 diamonds are an artistic interpretation of the emblem of Venice’s most iconic boat, the gondola. www.salvadori-venezia.eu
▲ TIFFANY & CO. Inspired by the iconic key ring from 1969, the ’Return to Tiffany’ collection is a classic reinvented. This delicate duo of engraved tags on a simple link chain exudes sophistication and elegance. www.tiffany.it
JEWELS
◄ DAMIANI The bracelets of the ‘Margherita’ collection are intriguing, dazzling masterpieces. A collection featuring a blend of the classic and the modern with an elegant design that reproduces the natural beauty of this flower. www.damiani.it
▲ POMELLATO For 2019, Iconica’s sensual curves are sculpted into daring new items of jewelry that combine gold and put colorful twists on jewelry settings: the rings sparkle with a rainbow of gem colors set into the star, triangle, oval and square shapes that distinguish the collection. www.pomellato.com
▼ NARDI VENEZIA The ‘Moretto’ is an item of jewelry that encapsulates the classical image of Shakespeare’s Othello and the refined goldsmith’s techniques of 18th century Venice. Dressed in characteristic attire, with a turban, the ‘Moretti’ are embellished by stylistic details. www.nardi-venezia.com
▲ CARTIER Roman numerals, blue apple-shaped hands, a winding mechanism crowned with a sapphire and a railtrack minute circle: the ’Ronde Louis Cartier’ watch is a classic timepiece. www.cartier.it
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WHERE NOW | EXPERIENCE
gondola
All about the
16 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
8 different types of wood, gondolas are constructed in boat yards called ‘squeri’ by gondola builders – the ‘squeraroli’ and ‘maestri d’ascia’ (masters of the ax) – who have been in this line of work since the 11th century. Private gondolas no longer exist and − the last person who owned one was art heiress Peggy Guggenheim. Every gondola is 11 metres long, 1.40 − metres wide and 0.65 metres high. The oar is made of beech and the ‘forcola’, the stylized
oarlock, is made of walnut. Eight kinds of different wood are used to build a gondola – oak, elm, lime, larch, fir, cherry, walnut, and mahogany. The only parts in metal are the ‘ferro’ in the front and the ‘risso’ at the back. It’s not easy to become a professional − gondolier. Requirements include attending a special school, passing a public competition set by the ‘Ente Gondola’ and being apprenticed to a professional gondolier for 6 to 12 months. The final step includes passing a rigorous practical exam. Traditionally, only men were allowed to − be gondoliers. The first female gondolier
– or gondoliera – was licensed in 2010. Giorgia Boscolo, the daughter of 40-year gondolier veteran, was the first to pass the requirements and obtain a license. One of the few remaining ‘squeri’ still − operating today in Venice is located in the sestiere of Dorsoduro near San Trovaso (see photo), between the Accademia and the Zattere. The building housing the ‘squero’ resembles a typical mountain chalet because, traditionally, gondola builders came from the Veneto mountains of Cadore. Following its construction, the gondola is lowered into the water via a slide – a celebratory moment (www.squerosantrovaso.com).
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PH © JAVARMAN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
Everyone knows that the gondola is − Venice’s most typical craft: made from
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a wooden bridge in 1181, known as the ‘Ponte della Moneta’ both due to the toll that people had to pay when crossing it and because the city’s mint was located at its easternmost end. In 1250, its wooden piles were replaced by a mobile structure and its name was changed to the Rialto bridge. A dark period followed. In fact, during this time, the bridge collapsed and was damaged several times. It was only in 1588 that the Senate of the Serenissima decided to announce a competition to finally rebuild a stone bridge. Numerous renowned architects submitted their projects, including Sansovino, Vignola and Palladio. However the daring but scenically impact-making design submitted by the aptly named Antonio da Ponte was chosen. His bridge consisted of a single 22 meter stone arch span, supported by a broad rectangular deck carrying two arcades of shops and ‘botteghe’ fronting on three roadways. Legend has it that da Ponte was visited by Satan himself who, in exchange for his help, asked the architect to pledge the soul of the first person crossing the bridge to him. The architect thought that he would trick Satan by having a cock cross the bridge for the first time. However, on learning about this deception, Satan vindicated himself by tricking da Ponte’s pregnant wife into crossing the bridge. Her child was stillborn, and according to legend, his soul wandered haplessly, for years, on the Rialto bridge, until a gondolier finally helped it to cross over to the other side. Even the famous street market boasts a storied past. In fact, historic documents testify to its presence way back in 1097
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS when it was much larger than its current counterpart and sold exotic goods and spices and precious fabrics. THE FAMOUS MARKET. Currently Venice’s market par excellence, it is divided into the Pescaria, where fish caught in the lagoon are sold, and the Erbaria, whose vendors sell only the freshest, seasonal fruit and vegetables. Although a visit to this market means elbowing one’s way among throngs of Venetian shoppers, the market nevertheless boasts two gems of historic and artistic interest: a loggia dating back to 1907 featuring a blaze of maritime and symbolic decorations, including a number of esoteric
elements that are mixed in with the fish, lobsters and octopi sculpted on the capitals of its colonnade. More attentive visitors will also notice a marble plaque embedded in one of its red brick facades, which shows regulations set centuries ago for minimum allowable sizes for lagoon fish. FOR SHOPPING ADDICTS. However, Rialto also means shopping. While strolling through the ‘rione’s’ tiny streets or when crossing its bridge, you’ll come across several unusual shops that are imbued with the atmosphere of a bygone era. These include antique shops, artisans’ workshops, old book binding shops where books are still bound according to time-honoured tradition, and jewelry stores selling original creations made from Murano glass beads. On the other hand, those in search of an amazing experience, should head to the old post office which now houses the T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS, a lavish, high-end department store and a magnificent feat of architecture that has been updated to brilliantly balance the old with new. The building boasts a marvelous terrace offering visitors a 360-degree view over Venice.
A HUB OF COMMERCE The Rialto Bridge is the dividing line between the districts of San Marco and San Polo. It is lined on both sides by shops, and includes 120 steps. Left, the Rialto Market, a one-of-a-kind place crowded with Venetians and tourists. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19
WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN
The allure of the region Veneto is one of the most visited regions in Europe and offers several attractive destinations for a fun, relaxing out-of-town experience. The cities are well connected by train but as an alternative you can either hire a car or a car with a driver. BY ROMENA BRUGNEROTTO
Half an hour by train from Venice Treviso: the city is a small gem, which can be visited entirely on foot. Lying at the heart of the city, Piazza dei Signori is the ideal spot to stop and enjoy either a local Proseccobased aperitivo, or a light lunch. The area’s neighbouring streets are packed with elegant shops, cut across by pretty canals offering lots of fabulous photo opportunities. Both the city’s Casa dei Carraresi and the Santa Caterina museum host important art exhibitions. While in the area, make sure to sample radicchio di Treviso, a homegrown specialty. A go-to destination for a snack is the Osteria dalla Gigia, Via Barberia, 20, whose signature dish is ‘mozzarelle in carrozza’, a type of fried cheese sandwich. Padua: home to one of the oldest universities in the world, Padua is a city deserving an entire day’s sightseeing. Among the list of things to do, top sights include the Scrovegni Chapel, Giotto’s masterpiece, but also the famous Church of Sant’Antonio, a pilgrimage site and the burial place of St Anthony of Padua (1193–1231). The city is also home to the oldest botanical garden in the world, planted in 1545 by Padua’s University medical faculty to study the medicinal properties of rare plants. In terms
Bassano del Grappa
Padua, Scrovegni Chapel 20 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
A UNIQUE BLEND OF HISTORY AND ART Top. The wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a symbol of the small town of Bassano del Grappa. Left, Giotto’s magnificent frescoes, covering the walls of Padua's Scrovegni Chapel, narrate events in the lives of the Virgin Mary and Christ. Above, Juliet’s house, with its famous balcony. Right, the Castle of Miramare in Trieste offering a charming panoramic view and the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza, a Renaissance marvel.
PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK
Verona
of gastronomy, local specialties include a variety of cold cuts and the city’s signature ‘gallina padovana’ which you can taste at the Ai Navigli restaurant. La Folperia in Piazza della Frutta is an absolute must for an aperitivo. It’s a simple kiosk selling local fish specialties and the king of street food par excellence.
Verona: founded by the Romans in the 1st century AD, the city of Verona is dotted with pretty palazzi, elegant squares and medieval gems. Best-known as home to star-crossed lovers Romeo and Juliet, its major attractions include the Arena, an architectural remnant of the Roman era, and a venue for the city’s annual summer opera festival, the beautiful Castelvecchio Museum and piazza delle Erbe. There are so many churches to see that you’ll be spoilt for choice. No visit would be complete without stopping to see San Zeno, a masterpiece of Italian Romanesque style. When you’re tired of sightseeing, indulge in a break at one of the city’s small ‘osterie’ for a glass of Valpolicella, the famous wine produced just a short distance from here. Before leaving Verona, make sure to head to pasticceria Flego in Piazza Borsari 9, to purchase a box of ‘Baci di Giulietta’, the city’s signature sweet treats made from almonds and walnuts. Bassano del Grappa: this picturesque town lying at the foot of the mountains is renowned for its namesake spirit, grappa. Its Palladian covered wooden bridge over the River Brenta is a highlight of the small historic centre. Also known at the Ponte Vecchio or the Ponte Alpini, it serves as a reminder of the events that took place during World War I. While in the area, make sure to book a guided tour of one
Trieste, Castle of Miramare
Vicenza, Teatro Olimpico of the distilleries that produce grappa, Italy’s ‘acquavite’ of choice. One of the most famous is Poli. Located in via Gamba 6, this renowned distillery also boasts a must-visit Grappa Museum. At the end of the tour, guests will be treated to a tasting session, accompanied by sweet or savoury snacks. Opened in December 2010, and located at number 8 Salita Ferracina, Palazzo delle Misture is the ideal spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In addition to an excellent selection of local wines, the venue also features an entire room dedicated to absinth, where you can taste historical brands dating from the late 1800s to the early 1900s. Two hours by train from Venice Trieste: the port and its architecture, reminiscent of central European cities, blend to create an elegant, captivating backdrop. When visiting Trieste you can remain in the centre and stroll through its picturesque alleys, or head to Miramare, the beautiful castle built in the
PHOTO © TRAVELVIEW / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
One hour by train from Venice Vicenza: its main square houses the famous basilica designed by Andrea Palladio, the most important architect of the High Renaissance. The entire life of the city revolves around the Basilica. Palladio also designed the city’s renowned Teatro Olimpico. This Renaissance marvel is well worth a visit or, failing that, a ticket to one of the many live shows performed here. Stop at a restaurant and sample the city’s famous ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ (Vicenza-style codfish) served with polenta. The people of Vicenza are so proud of this dish that the city even has a confraternity dedicated to keeping the 500-year-old recipe of ‘Baccalà alla Vicentina’ alive, and, believe it or not, there is also a codfish ice cream flavour. The go-to address is El Coq in Piazza dei Signori, where the chef enjoys creating innovative dishes using this important ingredient of Veneto cuisine.
late 1850s by Archiduke Maximilian, brother of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph. Sitting on a rocky outcrop overlooking the sea, both the castle – whose interior décor has remained intact – and the park are well worth a visit. A ride on the Opicina tram which connects the centre of Trieste with the village of Villa Opicina in the hills above is definitely unmissable. Inaugurated in 1902, the 'tram de Opicina' climbs up five kilometers, including 800 meters on a 26% incline, across splendid landscapes and with wonderful views of the gulf. Trieste is the Mediterranean's main coffee port, and it's also a hub for the coffee industry. In fact, the city is home to Illy, one of the world’s best-known coffee brands. Countless locales bear witness to the city’s history, and, if you head to Piazza Unità d’Italia you can choose your favourite. The best place for an aperitivo is Urbanis, in Piazza della Borsa 15. In addition to other symbols, the venue’s mosaic flooring features the Bora, the wind that blows over Trieste. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21
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J’aDior Venice New trends and design meet in St. Mark’s Square at the latest Christian Dior boutique. A must-visit destination for men and women’s haute couture. By Giulia Minero
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t’s not surprising that the beating heart of the Serenissima and shopping are home to an exclusive Christian Dior boutique. Located just steps from Palazzo Ducale and its treasures, this elegant space, whose picturesque interiors are reminiscent of the Ville Lumière, encompasses the entire creative world of the Maison of Parisian fashion. It is here that both women’s and men’s collections, designed respectively by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Kim Jones, are displayed. A new, spacious boutique, where the cozy atmosphere of an old-world boudoir, featuring warm colours and soft velvets, are combined with objets d’art and contemporary furniture by Paola Castelli and Belgian designer Ramy Fischler. Cannage, 22 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
the graphic motif that’s reminiscent of the Napoleon III chairs used by Christian Dior to seat guests, embellishes the parquet floor, and is a nod to the city of Paris. Here, in addition to the new prêt-à-porter collections for men and women, shopping enthusiasts can find a wide selection of footwear, sunglasses and small leather goods. As a tribute to the Lagoon city, and to mark the opening of the Venetian boutique, Maison Dior created an exclusive line of limited edition T-shirts bearing the inscription “J'adior Venice”. >> Piazza San Marco, 1255 T: 041 2411636. Map F4 www.dior.com
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE
The
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers. MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 46-47. TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and stops are based on departure from the Santa Lucia railway station. SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from
10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.
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TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund. UnionPay Service Hotline: 00 800 800 95516 e-mail: europe@unionpayintl.com
UnionPay is an international bankcard association based in China and serves the world’s largest cardholder base. With more than 7 billion cards issued worldwide, UnionPay has become the mayor payment method of the outbound Chinese. By March 2018, almost 600,000 merchants in Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among which 7,000 merchants are located in Venice. This allows hundred of thousands of affluent Chinese customers to shop with their favourite cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous retail groups, such as DFS Group, Airport dutyfree shops, to provide special discount or services for UnionPay cardholders. DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums and monuments is checked as carefully as possible. However, opening hours and site accessibility are subject to change depending on the time of the year. Ask your concierge.
Anatema Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves, brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk, handmade ties. Her windows and display cases express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of beauty, the magic of elegance”. Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry. Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it. San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2(San Tomà stop). Map D4
Francis Model Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour. Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano). T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop). Map E3
Giuliana Longo A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic. Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings, original panama hats and handmade headgear. PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Giovanna Zanella For the past ten years, Venetian designercobbler Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of shoes for men and women at her workshop located just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality because they are often enhanced by a surprise element. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm. www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Macrì This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420 (Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco stop) Map F4 • Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
Michele De Fina Highly select leather bags, its owner oversees each stage of the working process from the cutting of the leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian style are the hallmark traits of Venetian bag designer Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm7pm. www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 1822 (Frezzaria). T: 041 5220664. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop).
Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund
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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Top Brands DEPARTMENT STORES T FONDACO DEI TEDESCHI BY DFS— Tfondaco.com Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge) T: 041 3142000. Map F3
ALBERTA FERRETTI—www.albertaferretti.com San Marco, 295/296. T: 041 5220772. Map F4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com San Marco, 1310 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5230806. Map F5 BALLY—www.bally.it San Marco, 4919-4921 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5285839. Map F4 BOGGI MILANO—www.boggi.com San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041 2960321. Map E4 • Stazione Santa Lucia (Fondamenta S. Lucia, 20). T: 041 5246445. Map C3 BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com San Marco, 4822 (Calle del Lovo). T: 041 2411945. Map F4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com San Marco, 1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5228489. Map F5 BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. San Marco, 1494. T: 041 2410553. Map F4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com San Marco, 2308 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 240291. Map E5 CARTIER—www.cartier.it San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041 8842511. Map F4 CELINE—www.celine.com San Marco, 1312 a/b (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201898. Map F4 CHANEL —www.chanel.com San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Map E5 CHANEL FRAGRANCE & BEAUTY San Marco, 1254/1300. T: 041 2708699. Map F3 CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2410147. Map F5 CLARKS— www.clarks.eu. Cannaregio, 5586 (Salizada S. Canzian). T: 041 5229946. Map F3 DAMIANI —www.damiani.com San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Map F5 DIOR— www.dior.com San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de l’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Map F5 24 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
DOLCE&GABBANA— www.dolcegabbana.it San Marco, 2188 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5209991. Map F4 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Bocca di Piazza San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Map F4 ETRO—www.etro.com. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5232599. Map F5 FENDI—www.fendi.com. San Marco, 1582 (Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Map F4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Campo San Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Map F4 • San Marco, 1477 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Map F5 FURLA—www.furla.com. San Marco, 4833 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 2770460.Map F4 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com San Marco, 2282 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 8503048. Map F4 GUCCI—www.gucci.com San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Map F4 • San Marco, 258 (Mercerie dell'Orologio). T: 041 5229119. Map E5 HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com San Marco, 1292 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2410715. Map F5 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com Piazza San Marco, 80 (Bacino Orseolo 1218). T: 041 5224378. Map F4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com San Marco, 1289. T: 041 5224510. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com San Marco Ascensione, 1301. T: 041 2770695. Map F5
The metal closure of this iconic Furla ‘Metropolis’ Ruby bag is decorative yet strongly recognizable. It can be carried as a shoulder or a crossbody bag.
MONCLER—www.moncler.com San Marco, 2088 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2960605. Map E5 PRADA—www.prada.com San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5283966. Map F5 ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com. San Marco, 1314. T: 041 5299020. Map F5 ROCCA 1794— www.rocca1794.com Piazza San Marco, 125. T: 041 5201014. Map F4 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com San Marco, 1302. T: 041 5202211. Map F4 • San marco 2217 (Calle Larga XXII marzo). T: 041 8923010. Map F5 SALVADORI—www.salvadori-venezia.com Diamond Atelier. Piazza S. Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Map F4 • Diamond Atelier Cannaregio. Cannaregio, 2342. T: 041 5243211. Map D2 • Rolex Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Map F4 • Panerai Boutique. Piazza S. Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Map F4 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 2778509. Map E5 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com San Marco, 5039 (Marzarieta 2 aprile). T: 041 5210618. Map F4
LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Piazza San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Map F5
SWATCH—www.swatch.com San Marco, 5022 (Mercerie San Salvador). T: 041 5228532. Map F4
MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com San Marco, 5033 (Rialto). T: 041 5226688. Map F5
TIFFANY & CO.—www.tiffany.it San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Map F5
MISSONI— www.missoni.com San Marco, 1318/A (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5205733. Map F5
TOD’S—www.tods.com San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5206603. Map E5
MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 8106066. Map F5
VERSACE—www.versace.com San Marco, 1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057. Map F5
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CAL R IO DEL 12.30pm/4.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, 2013 ofL Eweaving on original looms thatLEonce belonged ND TER V O LT À BA IS O RBA FRU RAMO (Calle delle Veste, near the Teatro La Fenice). to the Venetian School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri TA R IO DEL M CORTE DEL ORA L POZETO T: 041 5235359. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria 9.30am-4pm DE ORO (Sat-Sun by appointment). Antichi Splendori CAMPIELLO FO DE LA MADONNA del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5 www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa Croce 1320. Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art Ca' Pesaro N ST D CAMPIELLO CAMPIELLO A Santa Sofia T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de Biasio R alleria Internazionale and antiques, the mission of this VALMARANA A D highly qualified DEL PESTRIN CA Le Zoie A LL C O RT E stop). Map D3 San Lazzaro E NO d'Arte Moderna antique dealer is to keep the interest in VA B ATA G I A R VA IS Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with Ca’ D’Oro CO CORTE dei Mendicanti authentic masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based CORTESE CAMPIELLO personality. PASSION TIP This eclectic shop STELLA CORTE NOVA store in Venice offers a careful selection of the showcase antique watches and jewelry but SantirareApostoli city’s artistic treasures, with a particular focus CAMPIELLO also specializes in collections WIDMANN CAMPIELLO that are unlikely to CAL TI OZ GAB LE on antique jewelry, Murano glass from the 11th DELLA CASON Cà d'Oro R IE ZI LI be found elsewhere, including objects inspired to 20th centuries and paintings of Venetian S.Canciano Ospedale SS. Giovann Al Duca d'Aosta by ancient ‘theriaca’, a medical C A M Pconcoction IELLO Chiesa Evangelica N landscapes. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7pm. C SAN CANCIANO D R IO A L L E Originally in Venice in 1902, Al Duca L Eestablished also known as Venice treacle. Open Tues-Sat WIDMAN Luterana SCU O L Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041 5239265. E E LL d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.com. CA CAMPO info@antichisplendori.com. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 S.MARIA NOVA Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre, San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694. CAMPO DELLA CAL LE (Rialto stop). Map F4 San Cassiano LAR PESCARIA G AUdine. The historical four-storey N ZI A N stop). Map E3 Treviso and Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato G. G N CA ALL DA SA IN A S A LI ZA Santa Maria R Venice location features over 100 top fashion Antichità San Samuele IO CAMPO DE Basilica dei SAN CASSAN CAMPO DE LA I M dei Miracoli Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua brands for men and women, carefully selected An antiques dealer since the Seventies, I R BECARIE San Giovanni Santi Giovanni e Paolo AC CA A LL Eclientele quality and elegance. These OL Antique books and priceless prints focusing LL to offer Cits CAMPO Silvana Vianello is renowned for her research CAMPO DEL ED I FO R Grisostomo CA EC NO CESARE BATTISTI CAL LL A’ LE C ED primarily on preservation and authentic for a sporty-chic look, MU SANTIlines GIOVANNI GIÀ A S T include casual men’s and expertise in the field. PASSION TIP San EL ELL TI DELLA I A BO Teatro Malibran PAOLO BELLA VIENNA bookbinding methods. TA Samuele specializes in religious antiques, sartorial designs forEsavvy-style gentlemen and PASSION TIP with CAMPO CA LL E SAN GIACOMETO LE ER Chiesa dell’Ospe Specializes in 18th century illustrated books, women’sDEwear, BE featuring the iconic accessories a particular focus on sculptures dating from the CA CORTE SECONDA DE M L PIE San Giacomo maps and views of Venice and engravings by 18th DEL MILION of the latest collections, including small leather CARAMPANE SA L 18th centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 13th through L NS O ON di3130 Rialtocentury Venetian masters. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am- goods and bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitanBARBARIA DE LE TO DE I 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. San Marco, LE CA Casa di RA 12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am-12.30pm. MP aesthetic. The store offers numerous special O (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041 5204900. Vaporetto CAMPO AN CAMPIELLO E Polo RIALTO www.lineadacqua.it.San Marco 3717/d (Calle facilities and services for its customers, including SOL Samuele stop). Map E4 Fontego Marco NUOVO line 2DEL (San della T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line deiMandola). Tedeschi a Personal Shopping service and Tax Free O AN AV C R ALL Antichità Zanutto L Sant’Aponal DEL 1 or 2C .(Rialto stop). Map E4 ED Shopping. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun DE C .M FON EL TA A RT P IO TEG HE M O G IN BO EN ContinuingRU a longstanding family tradition, Ponte GO 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.com. San Marco, SAN F D. P CAL LE G ALL S GIOOND CAMPO Tessitura Luigi CORTE E IA Z Z AL CAMPO Bevilacqua N in CORTE the 1970s, Vincenzo Zanutto chose San di Rialto VA AM IZZ O DO TREVISAN line 1 NN EN CAMPO 4945. T: 041 5220733. DELVaporetto AD ER SAN APONAL SAN BORTOLOMIO I LA TA P A L DEL VOLTO PRESTRIN TE PIOweavers specializing in the production Artisanal RA Marco to open his workshop specializing in DE CAMPO NO X E (Rialto stop). Map F4 LL A SAN LIOfurnishings C Rialto of exquisite, decorative fabrics for antique paintings, with Silvestro a particular focus on CAMPIELLO PIELLO San CAMPO SANTA MARIA SAL DEI and curtains. A unique place! IZ DE Marina Rinaldi PASSION TIP FORMOSA ADA Venetian artists. Also offers evaluations and FONDAMENTA SAN SAN SILVESTRO C. D LONI EL G DEI PRETI ALIA has practiced theL IOart Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO ZZO certified appraisals. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am- CALL Since 1875, the company
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Eredi Jovon A celebrated Venetian jeweler since 1934, and the owner of one of the few remaining historical shops on the Rialto bridge, Eredi Jovon is famous for its hand-carved Italian shell and blue agate cameos, set in silver or gold, and available at factory prices or on special offer. The shop is also renowned for its beautiful coral, Murano glass and ISOLA LA GRAZIA blackamoor jewelry. High quality, superior craftsmanship and its wide assortment of cameos and customized coral jewelry allow Eredi Jovon to satisfy the individual tastes of even the most discerning customers. WHERE TIP On request, Eredi Jovon creates customized portrait cameos based on photos or digital files. Thanks to an efficient e-commerce service, all creations can be ordered online and shipped worldwide. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.eredijovon.com. Ponte di Rialto, 5325. T: 041 5228979 Map F4
26 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
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Piedàterre Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided byISOLA their customers. Highly original SAN CLEMENTE and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
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La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CALL
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DEI FORNI
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ini
SA
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Verg
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FONDAMENTA
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Arsenale
FON
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San Martino
PIZ
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RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
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de le
Arsenale di Venezia
RIN ST PE
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Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
HIA RUGA VECC
S C H I AV
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
LL E
LL
TE
E LL CA
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
E COLT
SAN GI ACOM
CALLE ALBERO
AS
E DE LL CA
CR OS ER A
CASTELLO
DO NA
L’AN ZO LO
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S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
ZATT ERE
M E N TA
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AN
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EL
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S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
CA
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
O
TA
IA
CH
CA
CAL
NATER PIG
N SA
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
R I VA D EGLI
EN
LE ST
RI
MI
LA
VONI
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
A IN SC PI
CO L’AR
100 m
E
SC UO
COL
SCHIA
AM
CE
CALL
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
RIO TERRÀ
FO
TE PIC
DEGLI
DE
A DE AD SALIZ
CALLE TERAZZ ERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà
LE CAL
NI
LL
FOND
LLE
ENT A PON
San Zaccaria
ANT ONIN
SE ST ND
LL A
SALUT E
CA
CA
DAM
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
SAL IZAD A SAN
DE
CA LL E
CAL LE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the G I dell’Arte’ U D E for C aCtripAback into 18th century ‘Commedia Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered Santissimo Redentore among several of the most established manufacturers Santa Croce of collector’s items. They were the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am-6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. Hundertwasser' Garden T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3 FON
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE DEI FURLANI
San Giorgio dei Greci
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
LL E
GRIMANI CALLE INA DELF CALLE
IA
CALLE
DEL PIOVAN FONDAMENTA
FEM
San Giovanni di Malta
CALLE LION
FO CA
N IO ST BA
RC
CORTE DEL MORION
SALIZAD A SANTA GIUSTINA
CORTE DELLE GATE
IN MAR DE L’OS
VE
L DE
'EU
I PRET
E NUO
E LL CA
NT
E DEI CALL
ENT A CAS
MO SA SE CO GR AD ND O O
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE SACCA CALLE SAN LORENZO
DAM
RA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
I UD I SC GL E DE LL CA
SA
San Lorenzo
San Francesco della Vigna
SCO
E GAT
N TA
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
NCE
ASI DR
A N M
ZON
FRA
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
ENTA FONDAM
C. PIA NTON
R I VA
LE SAN
DE LE
ME
CALLE
FON
CAL
LLE CA
DA
Giudecca Palanca
CAMPO SANTA TIER GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
IZADA SAL
Palazzo Ducale
Spirito Santo
ON
E DEL CAFE
CALLE BOSELLO
O
TO
FON DAM
mia
VE
CALLE ERIZZO
ONI CA
O
A O S
CALL
Rio San Lorenzo
VO HIA
San Giovanni Novo
CO
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
O
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
MAR
LA CAN LE DE
ZI A ZOR IZAD SAL
VIN CALLE DEL
SC
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
GA SAN
CAL
E DE LL CA
O EZ M
NUOVA IO ED M L RE DE
CALLE DEL FIGHER
LE LAR
N
CORTE NOVA
RO VE N SE SA
RC
CORTE
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
ADA DEL FORN
CALLE DEL NAVARO
O SAN
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
CORTE
E LL CA
L MO GLI
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
DE LE BAN
SOTO E CORTE NOVA
RIT
LE DE CAL
TA
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
FFA GIU
O SPI
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani GA RU
E ALL
O
EN
DE LE TOLE
TA EN AM ND FO
TER
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
BI
ZAT
AM
Santa Maria del Pianto
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CORTE TREVISAN
I OR
EN TA
BARBA RIA
DE
SALIZ
FORNAC E
AM
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
Basilica di San Marco
MA
A DE RIV
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Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
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LO EL PP CA
SAN
N
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
ER
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ONI
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San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
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zo
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ESS
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CAL
Museo Correr
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Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
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NSION
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CH
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EN TA
LLA
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AM
DE
TE
RL
CALLE DEL BASTION
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
FO ND
LLE
A SC TA
ASCE
CA
MB O D. PA LLE
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I
EN
BE
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l Palaz
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I
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
SE
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TO
IN
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
NE
RTIRI
NL
FONDA MENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
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O
BO
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Salute
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TA
NAN
NT
CAL
CAL LE
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AM
LL
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FOR
Rio De
CA AN E BI LL CA
VAL
Santa Maria del Giglio
E DEL PISTOR
se Moi San
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
CORTE BAROZZI
DIC
CALL
MAR ZO
LE TRE
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
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CAL
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
E LARG
HETTO DEL TRAG CALLE
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
L PIO
CORTE
ET
San Moisè
Rio
CALL
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
CAMPO PISANI
CA GA BRLLE IEL
LE
G. GA LLI
LE DEL
DEL FORNO
CALLE
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MICHIEL
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
ER
GO
NI LO EI BA C.D
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CORTE DELLE ANCORE
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CAMPO SAN MOISE’
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INA
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CAMPO SAN LIO
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Bacino Orseolo
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Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
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CAMPO
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ID
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AM
San Fantin
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Santa Maria dei Miracoli
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CA LL E MAR DE ZA M RIA EZ O DE L CA PITE LL O CORTE LUC C. ATE DE TRAMONTIN LLO L TA M GI AR C. AP DE ZA IE C. LE RI RA DE A BA SA I PI LO N GN TE ZU OL LIAN I
or
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ad
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lv
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San Salvador
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CAMPO
n
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Accademia
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Santajewel-like Maria Artisanal ‘botteghe’, tiny boutiques del Giglio San Vidal and vintage shops,Palazzo this 'unique' city offers Corner Ca' Giustinian U R O an array of 'unique'Ca’Granda della locations where you Palazzo Ponte Pisani dell'Accademia Gritti canGallerie indulge in an authentic shopping Canal Grande dell'Accademia Palazzo Collezione Peggy Genovese experience and purchase objet d’art, fabrics San Trovaso Guggenheim Punta della Dogana Basilica di San Gregorio Santa put Maria to and accessories that you'll be hard della Salute find Santa Maria elsewhere. While strolling through its del Rosario Sant’Agnese esa di Santa Maria della Visitazione ‘calli’, you will discover how the tradition cultivated by the latter endows this city with Spirito Santo its characteristic vibrancy… BA
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Santo Stefano
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CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
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CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
Palazzo Grimani
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San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
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CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
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CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
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GH
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
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Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
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ON RD SAN L PE DE
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nde Canal Gra
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AN
Sant’Aponal
Palazzo Fortuny
DI SAN MARCO
CA
CA LL EC A’
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CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
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Santa Sofia
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S.Silvestro
SESTIERE
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
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LA
DE
CA
AM
CA FOND .
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Sant'Angelo
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San Barnaba
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Palazzo Giustinian Persico
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DE
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
a Can
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SE
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Palazzo Querini-Dubois
●
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
RA
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Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
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SE
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CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
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CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
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talon
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CAMPO DEI FRARI
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R
DE
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CAMPO SAN ROCCO
ALLE
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CAMPO SAN CASSAN
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San Cassiano
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CA
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CAMPO SAN BOLDO
RAMO
LL
DE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
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Basilica dei Frari
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LL
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CAMPO SAN STIN
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Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
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d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
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DE
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AT
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AC
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DE
LL
ND
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CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO
TI
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San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA VECCHIA
D
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LL
CA
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A
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LA
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AM
OLA
LL
ND
AR
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San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
FO
RI
EN
FO
ST UA
San Felice
S.Stae
CRI ST O
I BA
AM
RAM
CALLE SAVIO
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
A DE
D
TER
AD
RG
N
CALLE CAZZA
LIZ
LA
FO
FO ND
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
TI ET OR EM LL CA
C.
San Simeone Profeta
CA LL E DE L LA
UNIQUE IN VENICE RIO
RI
CA
SA
BA
TA
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
C AL
LI S
I CALLE ORSETT
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VA
EN
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
NO
AM
ND
IO
IN
DA
FO
DI
RI VA
TA
BI AS
FO
AM
RA
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
ST
Riva de Biaso
R
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
nde l Gra Cana
DE L
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
O VECCHIO CALLE TRAGHETT
San Geremia
Eredi Jovon
ISOLA DI SAN LAZZARO DEGLI A
Eredi Jovon's cameo
Mo
LIDO DI V
SHOPPING fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags, accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun and festivities 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. it.marinarinaldi.com. San Marco, 5028 (Merceria San Salvador). T: 041 2770064. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
map and guides, multilingual customer service, wheelchair accessible, free Wi-Fi, personal shopper (on request with extra charge), dogs admitted to the outlet village (admission in stores depending on the store policy), Tax Refund for Non-EU citizens and Currency Exchange on-site agency. Open daily 10am8pm. www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off Map
Pot-Pourrì
Palmanova Outlet Village
Three exclusive boutiques set against the magnificent backdrop of Palazzo Regina Vittoria in the heart of Venice. Pot-Pourrì carries clothing and fashion accessories for him and her, artisanal Made-in-Italy collections and a selection of international brands, skillfully mixed with the flair for which the brand is renowned. Couture dresses, handcrafted accessories and knitwear woven in cashmere, silk and natural fibers. The boutiques also stock a selection of accessories and homeware inspired by a classical contemporary aesthetic including knick-knacks and objet d’art for the home, bathroom and table (also ideal for wedding gift lists). Private boat landing stage. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.potpourri.it. Womenswear: San Marco, 1810 (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 2410990. Menswear: 1811/m (Ramo dei Fuseri) - T: 041 5221332. Homewares: San Marco, 1820/m (Frezzeria) - T: 041 5201996. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 San Marco Vallaresso stop Map E4
Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands discounted by up to 70% and open all year around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini, Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon, Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village makes you discover a land full of history and taste: the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline: T: 0432 837810. Off Map
JEWELRY & WATCHES Audemars Piguet A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces, made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Damiani A reference point in the world of highend jewelry, Damiani is renowned for its unmistakable style and innovative technical solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’ setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
DEPARTMENT STORES T Fondaco dei Tedeschi by DFS The recently renovated 16th century building that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping, food and cultural destination. Surrounding a central courtyard, the store offers the best in leading Italian and international fashion brands, accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially curated cultural program on the 4th floor and the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk when the payment is made by credit card, the first of this kind in Europe. Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.TFondaco.com. Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge). T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
FASHION OUTLETS Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet With more than 150 stores, cafés and restaurants, visitors can find their favourite labels with price reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further discounts at the annual summer and winter sales. From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani, Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels, like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites, like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice via the shuttle service (available twice a day from “Venezia Tronchetto”, Mestre and Marghera), it offers endless entertainment, from the children’s adventure play area to restaurants and cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Facilities: ATM cash machine, cafés, restaurants, kids play area, baby-changing rooms, free parking, store
New gift ideas by The Merchant of Venice
The Merchant of Venice’s new gift ideas are dedicated to the best sellers of its collection, Rosa Moceniga, Venetian Blue and Red Potion, and now include elegant gift sets depicting the façade of Ca’ d’Oro, one of Venice’s most symbolic buildings. Its stylized shapes are imprinted onto their boxes using the gold foil printing technique, and are presented like exquisitely elegant, precious treasure chests. The sets are available in pink, blue and red, the corresponding colours of the fragrances. The Venetian Blue gift set from the Nobil Homo men’s collection (see photo) includes two products: Venetian Blue Eau De Parfum Concentrée (100ml), and Venetian Blue After Shave (100 ml), the latest addition to the family, and a sought-after gift exuding a fresh, all-enveloping scent. This charismatic fragrance based on a modern fougère structure, offers new exhilarating olfactory sensations. Its mossy, smoky base is diffused with patchouli and birch, where fresh, piquant spices meet the energy of citrus. Lime and bergamot blend to present unexpected notes of apple and pineapple, in a vibrant, colourful duo. www.themerchantofvenice.com
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PHOTO © PAWEL HORAZY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ARTISTIC GLASS IN MURANO
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RI
TERRÀ
VAPORETTO
VONI
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
DEGLI
Giardino delle Vergini
Rio
San Martino
MOROSINA
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
Ca' Giustinian
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CALLE
Salute
CATECUMENI
RIO
FONDAMENTA
DELLA FORNACE FONDAMENTA SORANZO
DEL
PESTRIN
GRITTI CALLE
SAN
Moise
DEL TRAGHETTO
MARTIRI
San
CALLE
RIDOTTO
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
TREDICI
Rio
CALLE
VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
SARTOR
CALLE
DE CALLE
CROSERA
Arsenale di Venezia
Arsenale di Venezia
PIGNATER
RUGA VECCHIA
ASCENSIONE
C. DEL
FONDAMENTA
DEL NOVA ISOLA
MARITTIMO PORTO DIREZIONE
MARITTIMO PORTO
ima
DIREZIONE
Maritt ne
MAGAZZIN
a
PISCINA
DE
C. VOLTO
SCHIA
O
NUOVE
CASTELLO
L’ANZOLO
MARTIN
L’ARCO
CALLE
CASTELLO FOND. RIELLO
DEGLI
DE
SALIZADA
DEL PIOVAN
R I VA
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
LARGA
RC
CELESTIA
DONA
DE
BASTION
CALLE
A N M
CASTELLO CASE
DELLA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI
SAN ANTONIN
SCHIAVONI RIVA
SESTIERE
FONDAMENTA CALLE
CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA
DE L’OGIO
CALLE
SCUDI
VERONA
FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN
AM
NUOVE
SECONDO SAGRADO
CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA
CORTE DEL MORION
CORTE DELLE GATE
DEL
LA
MINELLI
VIN CALLE DEL
CAVALLETTO
Palazzo
DE
DEI PUTI
RIO TERRÀ
FO
ND
CASE
RAMO
CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA
CORTE SACCA
SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
CALLE DELA CREA
BIAGIO
FO
San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
SALIZADA
CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà
Spirito Santo
SAN
LAVRANERI
Sant'Eufemia
SAN
SALIZADA
San Giovanni di Malta
DEGLI
AI
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Zaccaria
ZATTERE
FONDAMEN TA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
ZON
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
CALLE
FABBRI
DIETRO
CALLE
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
CALLE
DEI
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
C.
CALLE
ORSEOLO
enzer
CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
San Lorenzo
San Giorgio dei Greci
CAMPO SAN PROVOLO SOTO E CORTE NOVA
Rio Del
CALLE
DEL
CALLE
DEL CAFETIER
CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA
C. PIANTON
CALLE BOSELLO
DELL’OROLOGIO
C.
VERONA
SA
DEI PRETI
GATE
SPECHIERI
SPADARIA
MARZARIA
DEI
LA
LO
CALLE
DRASI
CALLE
DE
FONDAMENTA
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
MO
ZORZI SALIZADA
DE LE
CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO
CALLE
GIUFFA
CASSELERIA
RIO
CALLE
Palazzo Ducale
Museo Correr
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
SEVERO
RUGA
C.
C. DE LE COLONNE
Bacin o Stazio
Santa Maria del Pianto
LATERANO
CORTE NOVA
MEZO
CALLE
SAN
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO
MARCO
CANONICA DE LA
O
SALIZADA
LIO
FABBRI
Scom
NOVE
DE LE TOLE
FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
DE
Rio San Lorenzo
CORTE NUOVA
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
SAN
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
REMEDIO
San Giovanni Novo
DEL
SAN
CALLE
RC
CALLE ERIZZO
SALIZADA
DEI
GRIMANI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CAVALLI
CARBON
Salvador
CALLE
CALLE
DEL
CORNER
San
CALLE
CALLE
Rio
CALLE
SEBASTIAN
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CALLE
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
ORBI
BEMBO
PIA
DEI
CALLE
SAN
CORTE BAROZZI
CALLE
DOLERA
CARRO
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
BARBARIA
SAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
BANDE
CORTE FRUTARIOLI
CALLE
LARGA
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
ENTA
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
REMER
CALLE
DEL CALLE
MOISE’
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
DE LE
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
CALLE
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
BALONI
CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE
SAN ZZA
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE DEL FORNO
C.DEI
O DEL
GALIZZI
STURION
DEI
DEL
CINQUE
C.
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
G. GALLINA
DEL
DE LE ERBE
COCCO
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
TOSCANA
CALLE
Palazzo Genovese
San Gregorio
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
LARGA
CALLE
O MUSSATO CALLE
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAM
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
LIO
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
CALLE DEL BASTION
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
DEL FORNO
FONDAMENTA
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA
CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
SAN
LUCATELLO MARZARIA DEI
BERLENDIS
VARISCO
CALLE
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
LICINI
MEZO
C.
VENEZIA
CALLE
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
SALIZADA
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
DEI
GIAZZO
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
CORTE GRAGOLINA
GALLO
Bacino Orseolo
NOVE
CALLE
DE
DONZELA
le
LA
TODESCHI
Cana
CALLE
DE
C. DEI
BIAGIO
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
WIDMANN
CALLE
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
BALOTE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
E
CASTELLO
C.
nde Canal Gra
S. SAMUELE
PESTRIN
CALLE
CORTE MICHIEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
CALLE DEL NAVARO
SANTO
RAMO
S.Canciano
RIO
Teatro Malibran
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
LE
DELLE
SAN
Teatro la Fenice
DELLA
SALIZADA
SPIRITO
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
SAN CANZIAN
CAMPO SAN LIO
C. DEL
SAN
C.DE
C.
C.
FRUTARIOL
DEL
FREZZERIA
BOTERI
SESTIERE
ORESI
DEL
CAOTORTA
Santa Maria del Giglio
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
CALLE
CALLE CAPPUZZI
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
DE
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
SABION
MAGAZEN
DEL
CALLE
San Fantin
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
Canal Grande
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
ALLO
LUCA SAN CALLE
CALLE
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
San Salvador
TEATRO DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
San Maurizio
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
ZATTERE
DEI
PISCINA
CROSERA
Santo Stefano
FALIER
San Vidal
FONDAMENTA
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
FONTEGO
PIO
TEATRO
CALLE ASSASSINI
PONTE
SACCA SAN
DEI
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
MAZZINI CORTE
SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
FONDAMENT
LARGA
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
LARGA
SAN CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
TRAGHETTO
BOTEGHE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
CAL
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CALLE
TEATRO
MARCO
CAFETIER
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CORTE DEL REMER
RIO
SALIZADA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPO MANIN
DEL
DEL
VENIER
CALLE
RAVANO
San Silvestro
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
AI GESUATI
NOVA
PARANGON
DEL
RUGHETA
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
ZATTERE
Zattere
Giudecca Hilton
PRIULI
Santa Sofia
STRADA
CAMPO DELLA PESCARIA
CAMPO DE LA BECARIE
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO DEL SOL
RUGA
DEL
CARROZZE
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia CALLE
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione FONDAMENTA
VOLTI
CALLE
SARTORI
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
MUTI
BOTA
Sant’Aponal
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
CALLE
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
BONLINI
CA’
ZEN
CALLE
San Beneto San Luca
SAN
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
FABBRICHE
CALLE
LE
LE
CATENE
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
CATERINA
LE
TRAGHETTO
DE
CALLE
DE
S. Samuele
Ca' Rezzonico
FONDAMENTA
LA
DEL CALLE
nde
NARISI FOND.
CROSERA
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
CALLE BERNARDO
Ca' Rezzonico
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
DE DE
CARAMPANE
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
SAMUELE
NOVE
CALLE
SANTA
S.ANDREA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
S. SALIZADA
LONGO
E
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
MORETTI
CALLE CALLE
LE
CAMPO SAN APONAL
DEL
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
DE
A
San Cassiano CAMPO SAN CASSAN
CARAMPANE DE
Gra
Palazzo Fortuny
SESTIERE DI SAN MARCO
VECCHIA
LEZZE
PONTE
Abazia della Misericordia D I
R
TRAPOLIN
STUA
PERDON
CA’ CORTE
Accademia
FOND.
ZATTERE
O
LA
CALLE
TIOZZI
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
Sant'Angelo
CALLE RAMO
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
DE OGNISANTI
AL
DEI
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
al Can Palazzo Giustinian Persico
S. Toma' SX
San Barnaba
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
FODAMENTA
IC
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CALLE
L’AGNELLA
Palazzo Querini-Dubois CALLE
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
CALLE
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
CANAL RIO TERA’
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
ER
San Felice
S.Stae
DE
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
MADONA
ROSSA
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
IS
TA
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
C.
SCALETER
San Tomà
DORSODURO
BESAGIO
M
FONDAMEN
VENDRAMIN
DEL
DE
DEL
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
FONDAMENT
VENEZIA
TA
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
C.
EN
CALLE
DE LA
CAZZIOLA
Rio
SAN
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
AM
DE
FORNO
FONDAMENTA BRIATI
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
San Sebastiano
D
CA'
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
BOLDO
ZANE
CROSERA
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
N
TA
SAN
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
Madonna
MORI
FONDAMEN
RAMO
Rio Nuovo
CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
SALIZADA
CALLE CHIESA
DEI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
DEL
TABACCHI
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
S. Basilio
DELLA
NA
Santa Fosca
CALLE
NUOVA LARDONI
C.
CA
NA
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CALLE
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO
CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
LE
ALE
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
PRETI
L’ASEO
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
NIE
DD
DE
CALLE
TINTORETTO
DEI
CALLE
FOMO
DE
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
TERÀ
SAN
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
RENIER
DEL
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
.DA
MA
TRON
DEL
TENTOR
MEZO
CALLE
RIO
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
CALLE
CALLE
LA
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
PAPADOPOLI
DE L’OGIO
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
C.
DE
CAMPO SAN BOLDO
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
San Pantalon
NUOVO
À D E
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
CALLE DELL'OLIO
LA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
SAN
BASEGO
RIO
FO de Servi N
SOTOPORTEGO
DE
TINTOR
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
SALIZADA
CALLE
Misericordia
FO
CALLE
L’ISOLA
DEL
FON.
CALLE
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
DE
DE LA VIDA
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE
SCHI
NICOLO’ SAN
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
TERA’
RAMO
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
CALLE ORSETTI
TA
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE CALLE
MINOTTO
Magazen
della
TER
CALLE
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
TA GARZOTTI FONDAMEN
CANAL CORTE
LUNA
Rio
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
Rio
La Maddalena
NOVA
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMA
SIMEONE
MARTA SANTA FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
CERERI
IA
RIO
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola RIO
FONDAMEN
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
DEI
RD
R
STRADA
BIASIO
DI
BARI
CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO
DEI
FONDAMENTA
DEI FONTEGHERI
ICO
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
VECCHIO
C.
NUOVA
RIZZI
PROCURATIE
LARGA
PONTE
LA
DEI AMAI
RAMO
Rio
PENSIERI
FONDAMENTA
LISTA
C.
CALLE
LUNGA
DEI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN MICHELE
FONDAMENTA
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
CALLE TRAGHETTO
RIVA FONDAMENTA
San Simeone Profeta
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
San Nicola da Tolentino
FONDAMENTA
TERÀ
MADONA
MIS
E DEL PISTO
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
MUNEGHE
CONVERTITE
VECCHIO GHETTO
CERERIA
CALLE
LA
CALLE
CALLE
CAMIN DEL
RIELLO CALLE
CALLE
NA
Riva de Biaso
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
Palazzo Soranzo Capello
Giardino di Palazzo
CASE CORTE
CALLE
SANT'ANDREA
TABACCHI
RIO
LA
TA
Rio
CALL
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
NUOVE
CROCE
C. LAVADORI TERÀ
CALLE
LA
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
EN
SE
RDIA
CROCE
CALLE
AM
I
A E M
MISERICO
TO
LER
LL
LA
RIO
Ferrovia
San Simeon Piccolo
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
NS
DELL'ORTO
ER LE P
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
San Leonardo
DEI
TERÀ
SE
ND
Museo Ebraico CAL
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
nde l Gra Cana
SCALZI
Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
People Mover Venezia
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
Rio
DE
TI
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
EN
FO
Santa Maria di Nazareth
TRONCHET
AM
CANNAREGIO
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
CALLE
ZZ
SAVORGNAN
CALLE DEI FUSERI
PU
San Girolamo
A
San Geremia
SALONI
CA
C.
FO
LE
O
SPAGNA
AI
DE
AM
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
DI
ZATTERE
TA
OL
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENT
LISTA
FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
EN
LLO
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
AM
N G IR
DEL
ND
SA
CAPITELO
CASE
TA
CALLE
FO EN
TE
TERÀ
DA PONTE
AM
B AT
DOGE
ND
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
CALLE
TA
QUERIN,
BECCARIE
EN
CAVALLET
CA
CALLE
AI
CALLE
LE
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
PRIULI
SEBASTIANO
FORNER
FO
Canale
CAMPO SAFFA
CALLE
BRAGADIN
DEL
DE
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa
COLETTI
ND
FONDAMENTA
SAN
GIOBBE
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
della
CARLO
FO
A
San Giobbe
VENIER FONDAMENTA
NUOVE
Rio
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENT
TO
DEL SABION
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
TRONCHET
FONDAMENTA
LARGA
FONDAMENT
A
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
DEL
CORTE
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
NOVA
FONTEGO
ER
RIO TERÀ CAZZA
B
ISOLA
LA
Parco
LI
People Mover Venezia
SALITA
LA
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
NANI
EL
CANOSSIANE
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FOSCARINI
LE
FONDAMENTA
A
TERRÀ
VI
LE
ER
DE
B
TO
COLORATA
Cimitero Nuovo ORTES CALLE
VENINI
PAOLO
FONDAMENT
LI
O
MURANO CALLE
LA
CALLE DEL CIMITERO
EL
NICOLO’ CALLE SAN
D
del
LE
CALLE
A
Rio
VI
PORTO MARGHERA
CALLE
The art of solidifying silicon to obtain a hard yet delicate transparent material, suitable for countless purposes, is rooted in the ancient past. According to historians, glass was first made in Mesopotamia in the III millennium B.C. However, several archaeological digs suggest that glassmaking was already practiced in Venice in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after the year 1000 A.D., its production had become so important that it was protected by specific laws. There was only one small problem - the presence of glass furnaces in medieval Venice, which was largely built of timber, presented a grave fire hazard.
TORCELLO
FONDAME
home on the same day. Furthermore, each piece is unique, meaning that small imperfections are an integral part of the value of the object. In short, if you come across a shop selling mass-produced items that promises quick delivery times or tempts you with low prices, beware. Apart from some exceptions, it’s better to do your glass shopping in Murano rather than in the city of Venice. Don’t worry if you want to buy an object but don’t have time to wait: the island’s glass factories are now equipped to make safe deliveries anywhere in the world.
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As a result, in 1291, for safety reasons, the Great Council ordered the glass workers to transfer to the Island of Murano, where they created a district that still exists. It was here that in the 13th century eyeglasses were invented, and here, in 1369 that mirrors began to be produced. It was also here, in 1450, that Angelo Barovier invented crystal. Throughout the Renaissance, glass was a rare commodity. It was only in 1827 that glass began to be produced on an industrial level. At that point, blown glass or glass produced by lampworking became a highly prized material used for aesthetic purposes, and achieved the height of its splendor during the Art Nouveau period. Artists including Lalique, Dammouse or Tiffany sought out the glass blowers of Murano to produce their coveted objects. During the midtwentieth century, real masters of the art including Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal began to emerge in Murano. Their works are highly coveted objects, true collectors' items that are often displayed at museums. While strolling through the streets of Murano, you’ll be spoilt for choice. If you want to make a purchase, bear several criteria in mind. Crafting authentic Murano glass is no easy task and isn’t cheap. Large objects require hours of work, so don’t expect to take you custom-made lamp
FONDAMENTA
Venice and glass: a strong, enduring partnership that has lasted for centuries. It’s natural to mention glass when talking about Venice. It’s the same as associating the city with the Lagoon, its colours and the plays of light that have served as inspiration for the most iconic creations by local master glass blowers.
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FAUSTA
Piedàterre Sensual and sophisticated, the new ‘Gilio’ fragrance by SALVATORE FERRAGAMO comes in a blown glass bottle crafted by VENINI. The fragrance is a re-interpretation of the maison’s iconic perfume.
Nardi Venezia A combination of a love of precious stones and a passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily 10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F5
Pomellato Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly sought-after collections featuring a range of stones boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Salvadori
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.salvadori-venezia. eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041 5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Tiffany & Co. Founded in 1837 in New York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller. Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting has been known as the ultimate symbol of love, paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections, including the elegant, minimalist creations designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a destination for those seeking spectacular beauty, style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
PASSION SHOPPING La Bottega dei Mascareri The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian masks, including jesters, elves and characters from the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are considered among several of the most established manufacturers of collector’s items. They were
the first mask makers to embellish their masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80. T: 041 5223857 and San Polo, 2720. T: 041 5242887. Map E3
Ca’ Macana One of the oldest and finest mask making workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre, film production and parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic handmade masks in the same way that Venetian artisans did 800 years ago and each mask is unique. Thanks to their expertise, they also hold conferences and courses on traditional mask-making techniques. Their masks were featured in important film productions including “Eyes Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas including those staged by the Vienna Opera House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215. Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169. T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). Map D4
Ottica Mantovani Sun and prescription glasses, the most technologically advanced lenses and the most comfortable, fashionable frames. Managed by the Carlon family since the ‘40s, it is now run by the third generation of opticians: a reference point for locals requiring either prescription eyewear or sunglasses. In fact, one of the Mantovani’s most famous customers was Peggy Guggenheim. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.otticamantovani.it. San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello). T: 041 5223427. Map F4
Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing selection of handmade slippers, where Alessandra and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’ (slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola. Their creations are available in coloured velvet, brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting, provided by their customers. Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com. San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi). T: 041 5285513. Map E3
The Merchant of Venice The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice is not only a line of products but a wider project which includes a concept store in Murano, the Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Venini An artistic space, where you rediscover all the elegance and sophistication of the exquisite creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers from Murano. A prime location for passionate collectors, or those whose want to further their knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041 2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco stops). Map F4
Tips to purchase Murano glass In order to protect local craftsmanship and guarantee the authenticity of recently purchased products, in 1994 the Region of Veneto has created a trademark to guarantee that products have been made in Murano according to the traditional techniques used by master glassblowers. Management of the registered Vetro Artistico® Murano trademark is entrusted to the Consorzio Promovetro Murano, which boasts a membership of fifty companies, the only ones allowed to mark their products with prestigious label. Depending on the type of working process involved, the adhesive sticker can be either red or blue. It also shows the manufacturer’s identification code on the top. In 2016, a serial number and a data matrix code were added to the sticker. These serve as additional proof that the product purchased is a genuine Murano-made item. (by G.M.) www.muranoglass.com – www.promovetro.com
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DINING
Arrigo Cipriani, owner of Harry's Bar
A legendary location Harry’s Bar is the birthplace of one of the world’s most famous cocktails, and a must-visit destination, renowned for its sophisticated, old-world atmosphere. By Chiara Zaccarelli
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he Bellini, made from peach juice and champagne, is one of the world’s bestloved cocktails. A simple, yet refined recipe, in which the structure and minerality of the champagne is enhanced by the aroma and scent of the peaches. The latter should be white, ripe and pureed on the spot in a strainer, to obtain a pure, delightfully fresh nectar. But where can you find a Bellini of this quality, flawlessly executed according to tradition? At Harry’s Bar of course, which is also the place where this legendary cocktail was invented in 1948. Located in the heart of Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Harry’s Bar was awarded national heritage status thanks to its historic and cultural value. This locale was the favourite haunt of Arturo Toscanini, Georges 30 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
Braque, Truman Capote, Charlie Chaplin, Peggy Guggenheim, Orson Welles, and Ernest Hemingway, who had his own table, and who mentioned the bar several times in his novel Across the River and Into the Trees. In addition to sampling this signature cocktail, you can also dine here. The menu features a variety of traditional Venetian dishes, re-imagined with an international twist. Harry’s Dolci, an oasis of peace located on the island of Giudecca, is the most recent addition to the family. Boasting a breathtaking view over Venice and an elegant, laid-back atmosphere, it’s a peaceful refuge, far removed from the tourist crowds in St. Mark’s Square. The locale is a great place to lunch, dine or simply order a cup of coffee and an ice cream.
>> cipriani.com San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso) T: 041 528 5777. Map F5
Bellini cocktail
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/VENICE
TASTING EXPERIENCE Enoteca Al Volto Excellent wine accompanied by traditional ‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and 6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T: 041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari stop). Map E4
L’Aciugheta Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long “paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons, stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’ topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta One of Venice best-known, most traditional “cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings. Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041 5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map F4
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE
century Palazzo Zorzi, the restaurant is listed as an ‘historical establishment of Venice’ and its dining room still features a vaulted ceiling and a frescoed firedplace. Its menu offers the best of traditional Venetian cuisine: baccalà, Venetianstyle liver, ‘granseola’, polenta with shrimp, a mixed fish fry with artichokes and seafood risotto. The restaurant offers a gluten free menu especially designed for coeliacs. Closed on Thursday. €€€. www.algiardinetto.it. Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332. Vaporetto line 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Al Mercà Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine. Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17. T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2 (Lido stop). Map E3
Alla Madonna Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s most picturesque corners, the Rado family has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www. ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle
della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Antica Carbonera Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor: its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041 5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining. Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest, top quality ingredients is accompanied by an astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Antico Martini Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and
1000 Gourmet PIZZERIA After years of experience in the restaurant business in Naples, 1000 Gourmet has opened its second locale in Venice, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. Its Neapolitan-style cuisine is based on the use of high-quality ingredients (including unrefined or gluten-free flour) and creative pairings, interpreted in numerous, tasty options. Other highlights include traditional Italian and Neapolitan ‘antipasti’, starters and desserts. Open daily, 11am-4pm/6pm-11pm. San Marco, 475/476 (Calle Specchieri). T: 041 3127069. Vaporetto Line 1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
A Beccafico Arte It offers several dining spaces and a small inner courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key, contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio, 2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E5
Acqua Pazza Set against the magical backdrop of Campo Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining experience under the stars. This small corner of Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo A meeting point since 1986 for an international clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer, guests can dine outside under the romantic light of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www. alcolombo.com. San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Al Giardinetto da Severino Set against the magnificent backdrop of the 15th
Contemporary setting
The Fiola at Dopolavoro restaurant on the Island of Roses, an exclusive strip of land covering 16 hectares, has a new chef, and a new concept. It is a tranquil, secluded retreat comprising a series of buildings dating back to the 1920s and 1930s. These have been re-imagined in a contemporary key by renowned architect Matteo Thun, and Venetian materials and neutral colours blend harmoniously with the reflections of the lagoon. A unique gourmet destination that’s very different to the usual tourist itineraries. The restaurant’s new chef, Fabio Trabocchi, a native of the Marche region, has returned home after spending twenty years in the USA, bringing a touch of globalization with him. In spite of Fabio’s USA experience, his culinary offerings are a tribute to the Adriatic and to Italy as a whole. The menu features seasonal ingredients sourced from the Rialto Fish Market, but also from the island’s private vegetable garden. Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Hotel - Isola delle Rose. T: 041 8521300. www.jwvenice.com w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 31
DINING
Kosher in Venice If you are already familiar with Jewish dietary laws, or want to try a new ‘kosher’ gastronomic experience, here are some great addresses that will not disappoint!
DINING Italian labels. also some served. attentive staff,Vegetarian the Antico meals Martiniare serves of €€€.best www.lacalcina.com. La Calcina. the seafood in town.c/o €€€.Hotel www.anticomartini. Dorsoduro, (Zattere). 041 5206466. Vaporetto com. Campo780 Teatro FeniceT:2007. T: 041 5224121. line 2 or 5.1line (Zattere stop). Map Vaporetto 1 (Santa Maria delE6 Giglio stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5
La Conca d’Oro LocatedPignolo just steps from St. Mark’s Square, La Antico
Conca d’Oro was established Sicilian brothers The hand of owner Eligio Paties,by is apparent in its Giuseppe laid andtables Giovanni the founders of beautifully and Costa, impeccable service. The the fi rst pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that time, traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a wellthis Venetian institution has than been900 turning stocked cellar boasting more labelsout from some the best €€€. pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ all overofthe world. www.anticopignolo.com. San (restaurant). www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, Marco, 451(Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123. 4338 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 5229293. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccaria Map F4 stop). Da Fiore A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topLa Porta d’Acqua notch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting. Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, theMartin restaurant Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio is housed in aan15th building and decorated transformed oldcentury osteria into one of the city’s with original dating back to 1700. Its cuisine most famousfrescoes restaurants. Impeccable service and conjures upVenetian the aroma of authentic Neapolitan superlative dishes composed of carefully cuisine, thanks to ingredients exclusively selected seasonal ingredients sourced have made Da Fiore Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San afrom must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€. Polo, 1022/b (Rio San TeràPolo, San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124. www.dafiore.net. 2202. T: 041 721308. Vaporetto line 1 (San Silvestro stop). stop). Map E4 Vaporetto 1 (Rialto-Mercato
Map E3
Lineadombra Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful Gran Canal
KOSHER RESTAURANT GHIMEL GARDEN The restaurant offers kosher specialties and typical fish-based dishes. Halav. Lemehadrin. The menu is accompanied by a great selection of strictly kosher wines. Open daily 9.30am-3.30pm/6.30pm-10pm. Serves Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject to reservation. ghimelgarden.com. Cannaregio, 2873/c (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 041 8226131. KOSHER HOUSE GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI Located just a 10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this is the only kosher residence in Venice. Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto, it is equipped with all the necessary accoutrements for the strict observance of Kasheruth and Halacha. www.pardesrimonim.net. Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131. CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA Indulge in a flavoursome break at the cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum. Situated in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo, the venue is set between two of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav. Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
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promenade Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect Here you canintaste the typical specialties of Venetian spot for afeaturing romanticthe dinner where you canofenjoy tradition, purest expression tasteall and the typical flavours of the main Venetian €€€. harmony. The restaurant’s focuslagoon. is on seafood www.ristorantelineadombra.com. 19. and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinnerDorsoduro, on its evocative T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1 terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand (Saluteoffering stop). Map E5an excellent opportunity Canal diners to combine the pleasures of the palate with a Locanda Cipriani stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch For those who want to be close to Venice, 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www. yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular (San Marco stop). Map F5 among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic
Harry’s Bar Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere. www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, family-run restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com. Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2 (Giardini stop). Map H5
restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it www.concadorovenice.com. Castello, 4338 (Campo hasFilippo been renovated with charm, Vaporetto exuding SS. e Giacomo). T: great 041 5229293. an understated elegance beautiful lines 1, 2 , 5.1 (San Zaccariawith stop). Map F4 country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www. Lineadombra locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29 Perched the last of theVaporetto most beautiful (Torcelloon island). T: bridge 041 730150. line 12 promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then spot take for thea9romantic line). Offdinner Map where you can enjoy all the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€. www. Taverna al Remer ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19. T: 041 Located Vaporetto near to theline Rialto Bridge,stop) this romantic 2411881. 5.1 (Zattere or 1 (Salute ‘taverna’ is E5 distinguished by its open-brick stop). Map decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch. Trattoria Domenu Forni Although the features simple, traditional The owner Eligiosurprises Paties has managed to make this dishes, it often diners with unusual restaurant a sought-after destination, distinguished pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www. by its wide Cannaregio, assortment of5701. Venetian thanks to alremer.it. T. 041fare, 5228789. the quality of the dishes and stop). a genuine sense of Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro typically Map F3Venetian hospitality. The dining spaces will remind you of the carriages of the legendary “Orient Trattoriaand Dopay Forni Express” tribute to the history of Venice. The www.doforni.it. owner Eligio Paties has managed to make €€€. San Marco, 468 (Calle dei this restaurant a sought-after destination, Specchieri). T: 041 5232148. Vaporetto line by its Map wide F4 assortment of Venetian 1distinguished or 2 (San Zaccaria). fare, thanks to the quality of the dishes and a Wildner genuine sense of typically Venetian hospitality. Opened by spaces the Fullin in 1960, it is patronized The dining willfamily remind you of the carriages by locals and tourists alike.Express” Its tranquil, relaxed of the legendary “Orient and pay tribute atmosphere is of further enhanced by a spectacular to the history Venice. €€€. www.doforni.it. San view over the(Calle Basindei of St. Mark’s. ItsT:menu is mainly Marco, 468 Specchieri). 041 5232148. fish-based classic VenetianMap specialties Vaporetto and line serves 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). F4 including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Wildner Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Opened 4161. by the family inVaporetto 1960, it isline patronized Castello, T: Fullin 041 5227463. 4.1 by5.1 locals tourists alike. Its G4 tranquil, relaxed or (Sanand Zaccaria stop). Map atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’. Dal Mas Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner. Located just a few minutes from the railway station, Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1 this pastry shop offers a triumph of traditional or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4 sweet treats for breakfast (in addition to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and ‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate shop where you can find single servings of mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightly-coloured macarons. www. cioccolateriadalmas.com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101. Map D3
PASTRY SHOPS
Pasticceria Italo Didovich Should you find yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041 5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
Pasticceria Rosa Salva
This institution has three separate shops in Venice. The first is in San Marco-Calle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next is in San MarcoMercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks that can be enjoyed in between browsing the shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that connects the La Conca d’Oro Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is in Campo Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it. San La Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders of the (Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo The hauteincuisine ofItaly. thisSince signature restaurant plays on the creative combinations of San first pizzeria Northern that time, this Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 Venetian hasand beentraditional turning out Venetian some of dishes. Italian institution specialties www.kempinski.com/it/venice or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4 the best pizza in town. € (pizzeria) - €€€ (restaurant).
ACQUERELLO RESTAURANT
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DINING
Top hotel restaurants Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite at several top hotels in Venice.
Glam Acquerello c/o S. Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Italian and Venetian tradition with creative and surprising combinations. Its view is as breathtaking as its food: the restaurant boasts a large terrace. Off Map Arva c/o Hotel Aman Venice. www.aman.com Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo). T: 041 2707333. A delightfully unique menu, thanks to several specialties created by Executive Chef Dario Ossola. Map E4 Antinoo’s c/o Centurion Palace Venezia. www.sinahotels.com Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281. In addition to the à la carte menu you can also choose from a selection of typical gourmet Venetian dishes.
Map E5 Aromi c/o Hilton Molino Stucky. www.molinostuckyhilton.it Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723311. Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine. Summer terrace with a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal. Map C6 Canova c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna. www.baglionihotels.com San Marco, 1243. T: 041 5289840. Menus and tastings featuring the best of traditional Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the freshest, high-quality ingredients. Map F5 Club del Doge c/o The Gritti Palace. www.clubdeldoge.com Campo Santa Maria del Giglio. T: 041 794611. A welcoming ambience and authentic upscale cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special one. Map E5
De Pisis c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo. www.bauervenezia.com San Marco, 1413/d. T: 041 5207022. For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the backdrop of the historic Basilica della Salute. Map F5 Do Leoni c/o Hotel Londra Palace. www.londrapalace.com Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni). T: 041 5200533. It combines the traditions of Venetian fare with more creative dishes. Two atmospheric dining spaces: an indoor dining room and its summer Veranda. Map G4 Fiola at Dopolavoro c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa. www.jwvenice.com Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300 The renowned name of Fabio Trabocchi is behind this restaurant housed in a building dating from 1936 on its own private island. Off Map Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. www.palazzovenart.com Santa Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron). T: 041 5233784. Chefs Enrico Bartolini and Donato Ascani offers an interpretation of contemporary Italian cuisine and research-based use of locally-sourced Venetian ingredients. Map E3 Grand Canal c/o Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal San Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. www.hotelmonaco.it A meeting place for gurus of the world of economy and finance, journalists and artists. Here you can enjoy the typical dishes of Venetian tradition, from the delicacies of the sea to the vegetables.
L’Alcova c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel. www.casagredohotel.com Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99. T: 041 2413111. Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over the Grand Canal and in front of the historic Rialto Market, it is ‘the’ temple of traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs. Map E3 La Caravella c/o Hotel Saturnia. www.restaurantlacaravella.com Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399. T: 041 5208901. Opened in 1963, it completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia with a touch of culinary excellence thanks to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. Map E5 Le Maschere c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice. www.starhotels.com San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755. Here you can sample authentic Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly. Map F4 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. www.belmond.com Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. Take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6
Map F5
Pisanino c/o Palazzetto Pisani. www.palazzettopisani.com San Marco, 2814. T: 041 5232550. Here you can savor refined Italian and gourmet food in a typically Venetian ambient. Particular events are often organized in this space. Map E5
Il Giardino Segreto c/o Grand Hotel dei Dogi. www.dahotels.com Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500 (Calle Larga Piave). T: 041 2208110. In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs. Map E1
Terrazza Danieli c/o Hotel Danieli. www.terrazzadanieli.com Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196. T: 041 5226480. A trip to discover traditional flavours. Exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients. Don’t miss the breathtaking view over the lagoon. Map F4
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DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants
Glam
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste! Glam c/o Palazzo Venart. Santa Croce, 1961. T: 041 5235676. www.palazzovenart.com/en/restaurant-bar Set within a secluded corner of Venice and located in a prime position overlooking the Grand Canal, Glam is situated inside Palazzo Venart. After being awarded its first Michelin star in 2017, it received its second star in November 2019. The brainchild behind its menu is Enrico Bartolini, Italy’s youngest chef. Helmed by resident chef Donato Ascani, the restaurant serves traditional Venetian dishes upgraded with a futuristic twist and enriched with contemporary pairings that intensify the fabulous flavours of the Lagoon. Glam can host up to 40 guests indoors or al fresco. Map E3 Oro c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801. www.belmond.com A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani, experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this
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enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling, from which the restaurant draws its name, and try the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6 Osteria da Fiore San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308 www.dafiore.net An Osteria only by name because this is actually an elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented by the chef Mara Martin, intended to be as close to nature as possible thanks to a great selection of highly sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine recommendation from its excellent wine list which also features several international labels. Map E3
Quadri Piazza San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105 www.alajmo.it A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from its decor. The restaurant – with the Quadrino and Grancaffè Quadri on the ground floor – has reopened after a major restoration by Philippe Stark: triumph of stucco, Murano glass and precious fabrics housed in one of the most photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu by chef Massimiliano Alajmo features intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully presented... without forgetting its spectacular view over piazza San Marco. Map F4 Il Ridotto Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509. T: 041 5208280 www.ilridotto.com Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto, 'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu employing traditional elements is revised daily, with the offerings tending toward lighter, but
Š #PHOTODAVIDEBIANCHET
Il Ridotto
Osteria da Fiore
Quadri
wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes. A particular characteristic? It only has 9 tables. Map F4 Venissa Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo) T: 041 5272281. www.venissa.it On the one hand its vegetable gardens and vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. In a corner of paradise just steps away from the island of Burano, its bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh, seasonal ingredients. On the island of Mazzorbo, the Dorona di Venezia wine variety has found a magical equilibrium on land that is constantly threatened by salt and water. Venissa is a wine with true personality that is intrinsically linked to its terroir: there is only one hectare of Dorona di Venezia in the world, and only 3500 bottles are produced each year. Off Map
Venissa
Oro
Rosso Venissa
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PHOTO © DALIU / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
ENTERTAINMENT
A weekend getaway in the Dolomites
W
hat do Venice, the Lagoon city surrounded by seawater and the peaks of the Dolomites have in common? Both destinations are UNESCO World Heritage sites but, above all, most people are unaware that some of the most dramatic and majestic mountain scenery to be found anywhere in the world is located a mere two hours away from Venice. With their breathtaking landscapes, picturesque mountain villages and steep slopes that make them a paradise for winter sports, the Dolomites are one of the Venetians favourite winter holidaying destinations, but not only. The connections between Venice and the locations of Cortina d'Ampezzo, Val di Zoldo, Alleghe, Falcade and Marmolada are increasingly numerous. 36 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
If your ultimate destination is Venice, and you would like to get just a taste of the mountains, several local tour operators offer an array of great tour packages (www.veneziadolomiti.com). In particular, Cortina d’Ampezzo, a famous racing town and a location for the 2026 Winter Olympics, combines the appeal of a ski resort dedicated to Alpine sports with a vibrant day and night life, dedicated to culture and haute cuisine. In addition to winter sports, Cortina is a paradise for shopping with markets where you can purchase local specialties and the boutiques of well-known fashion brands. Alternately, more daring visitors can indulge in a variety of openair sports including climbing, excursions on snow mobiles or horse-drawn sleighs, romantic helicopter flights or hikes, even in summer.
PHOTO © PHOTOSHOOTER2015 / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
On particularly clear days in Venice you can see the mountains of the Dolomites, an ideal destination for a weekend getaway, especially in winter. By Giulia Minero
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CONCERT VENUES & THEATRES Teatro Goldoni The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice. Built by the Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important dramatist at that time. It was renovated several times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. ON SHOW Don’t miss “The Nutcracker” ballet by Pyotr Tchaikovsky on Tuesday 26. The Russian Classical Ballet will perform under the direction of Evgeniya Bespalova and Denis Karakashev. www.teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041 2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco, La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th century it became a focal point for contemporary productions. www.teatrolafenice.it. The theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
1913, it hosts a famous opera festival featuring must-see performances and internationally renowned stars. www.arena.it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off Map
Teatro Olimpico Vicenza One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza, piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map
WELLNESS JW Venice Spa Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa – the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a shell onto the water and has eight treatment
cabins with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. Facilities include a stunning heated indoor vitality pool that extends outdoors through a moveable glass wall, a sauna, bio-sauna, hammam and gym. Non-resident guests are welcome, and there is a dedicated JW Venice Spa dock for water taxis and boats arriving from across the lagoon. c/o JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott every 30 minutes. Off Map
The Merchant of Venice Spa An oasis of luxurious indulgence, where The Merchant of Venice’s fragrant and refined essences blend with Kempinski’s European flair. 380 sq.m. of wellness and fitness, with a unique selection of aromatherapy massages, spoiling beauty treatments and healthy fitness recommendations. Equipped with a hot tub and a state-of-the-art modular system combining sauna, Turkish bath and shower as well as an elegant lounge area for two, the Spa has been nominated the best hotel Spa in Italy and Europe at the "World Spa Awards 2019". c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
GAMBLING & CASINOS Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming house and its charm has remained unaltered over the years. A perfect example of renaissance style stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games and American gaming tables are given over to the best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines provide a more informal way of having fun. For venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041 5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop). • Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino, opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera (5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
VENETO HOT VENUES Arena di Verona The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary openair opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre (115 km from Venice). Each summer, since
© MARCO SARTORI PHOTO
Casinò di Venezia
Glamour and charity In Venice, the Sparkling December Cocktail & Dinner Party is a popular and eagerly awaited Christmas extravaganza. A unique event featuring opulent decorations and unexpected surprises. Held on 14 December in the elegant Hotel Metropole, each year, this dazzling party is characterized by a different, elaborate theme, around which the entire evening revolves. Jugglers, fire eaters, dancers and international performers entertain guests, amidst fancy dress, games, performances and fun. In addition to a buffet curated by the staff of the Met Restaurant, guests are treated to a DJ set and music played by a live band until late at night. The highlight of the evening and its raison d'être is the charity lottery to support the Onlus Foundation for Research on Cystic Fibrosis. www.hotelmetropole.com
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PHOTO © MICHELE CROSERA
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Teatro La Fenice during the New Year's Eve concert
A legendary theatre With a history steeped in tragic events and reconstructions, one of Italy’s most prestigious opera houses and a symbol of Venice, La Fenice, stages a rich roster of opera, ballet and classical music. By Chiara Zaccarelli
T
here never has been such an evocative name. 230 years ago, the Phoenix, a legendary bird who rises from the ashes, gave its name to what is now the best-loved and most famous theatre in Venice. La Fenice’s history is particularly unusual. During the second half of the 18th century, the prestigious Teatro San Benedetto was partially destroyed by a fire, but rebuilt by the ‘Nobile Società dei Palchettisti’, the owners of the property. However, due to a judicial ruling by the Venier family, it was forced to sell the complex. This prompted the Association to build another larger, more luxurious theatre, which they called La Fenice as a tribute to its rebirth. In the 19th century, it staged numerous premieres of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. In 1836, a fire damaged part of the 38 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
structure which was rebuilt within a year. In 1996, another devastating fire almost destroyed the theatre completely. However, despite the serious damage, La Fenice rose once again from the ashes, more splendid than ever before. If you want additional information about this legendary theatre and its ‘stars’, you can book a tour that allows access to its lavish interiors that are decorated with stuccoes and gilded ornamentation, including a visit to the rooms hosting a permanent exhibition dedicated to Maria Callas. This season’s program features operas, ballets and classical music, plus the theatre’s unmissable New Year’s Eve concert. >> www.teatrolafenice.it Campo San Fantin, 1965. T: 041 786654. Map 4E
Maria Callas
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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS Basilica del Redentore
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
© SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION, NEW YORK.
Based on a project by the famous architect Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577 on the island of Giudecca. It contains works by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one third of the population. To commemorate the end of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the church on the third Sunday of July. www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore (Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41 and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
Basilica di San Marco This is the most important Catholic church in the city, and one of the most important monuments in Italy. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. The famous winged lion, a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. You might have to queue for a time to get inside, but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although admission is free, you will have to pay to see several specific sights. In order not to miss your visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening hours, as they are often subject to change. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays) 2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco, 328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower) This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master of the house) because it dominates the city, observing everything that lies below it. Resting lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino, it has a particularly recognizable shape and a rich history. The original medieval bell tower was modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view over the city. Although admission is not free, it is often included in joint tickets. Opening times are subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines 1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal) Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the main waterway of Venice and much more. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has witnessed lavish parties and workshop events, religious processions, capital executions, historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this experience, but because it offers several of the best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It is is almost impossible to list all of them, but
Located on the left-hand side of the Grand Canal, just beyond the Church of the Madonna della Salute, you will come across a building that seems strange and unfinished, but is also elegant and well-tended. The Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, formerly home to the prominent and powerful Venier family, was originally planned to become one of the most sumptuous buildings in Venice. Construction of the palazzo began in or around 1748, but was halted after only one floor was completed. Undeterred by its rather sketchy shape, and upon seeing the palazzo with its beautiful garden, eccentric American heiress Peggy Guggenheim, a lover of modern art, la dolce vita and men, fell in love with it. She purchased Palazzo Venier in 1948, and moved in with her collection of contemporary art, subsequently opening both the palazzo and her extraordinary collection of artworks to the public. In 1980, after her death, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was bequeathed to the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which also manages the Solomon R. Guggenheim in New York and the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao. In 1985, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni was officially converted into a museum. Today, thanks to its 20th century collection
of art, it is considered one of the most important museums in Europe. The collection includes masterpieces of Cubism, Futurism, European Abstractism, American Abstract Surrealism and Expressionism, as well as works by illustrious artists like Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and Dalí. It also hosts prestigious temporary exhibitions. www.guggenheim-venice.it
SOLOMON R. GUGGENHEIM FONDATION. PHOTO ARCHIVIO CAMERAPHOTO EPOCHE. DONAZIONE, CASSA DI RISPARMIO DI VENEZIA, 2005.
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for more information you can visit the www. canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or ask your concierge.
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto This is one of the largest churches in Venice, and, according to popular belief, is named after a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly had miraculous powers. It contains a significant number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger. The complex also houses the smaller church of San Marziale, dating back to before the year 1000. This church can only be visited by booking. Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www. madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041 719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto stop). Map E2
Ghetto di Venezia Although documentation chronicles the presence of a Jewish community in Venice from before the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century, due to political unrest in Europe and a significant increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree stating that the Jewish population should move to a specific part of the city, where they could be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to move to this, then, remote northwestern corner of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14th-century foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect for "foundry," a word that would soon be used throughout Europe and the world to depict an area where isolated minority groups lived. The Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving, vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution, and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi (Casinò di Venezia) Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from both East and West, Venice was the first city in the world to open a gaming house way back in
1683. Today its old-world ambience continues to play host to several of the world’s most classical games. The casino is open to everyone aged 18 and over and proper attire is required. www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square) Known throughout the world, this square is the heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark. It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit integrated with other areas. Measuring 170 metres in length, it faces directly onto the water and is surrounded by several magnificent stately buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes it one of the most widely-photographed places in the world. The best thing to do here is to look around and exult, but don’t forget that the square has a number of specific landmark sites, whose interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing), Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés, the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs) The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge) This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it (shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. Originally built during medieval times as a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to everyone; between upward and downward slopes, it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125 (access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X). Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
San Giorgio Maggiore
When ‘Acqua Alta’ is a bookstore Initially, travelers only learnt about this amazing place in Venice via word of mouth. Later, due to its original setting and picturesque ambiance, it was discovered by photographers and the international media. Today, it’s a social media star, used as a context and backdrop for amateur photographs. It’s the Acqua Alta Libreria, a bookstore located in Campiello del Tintor, in a small courtyard on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, just steps from St. Mark’s Square. With its piles of books, gondola and bath tubs used as floating furniture, stray cats curled up on top of the stacks of books, and the smell of salt water, its name translates to ‘bookstore of high waters’ due to the store being plagued by rising waters, which flood the floors of the shop each winter. Because this is Venice, what else would you expect?
Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum (see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This small island, that is a part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
jewel of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands at a commercially and aesthetically important point, almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon. Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630. On 21 November each year, a popular religious celebration, marking the official end of the Black Death, is held here. The church is also famous for its organ concerts. Open daily 9am12noon/3pm-5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia. it. Fondamenta Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
YOUR ING COMPANION SINCE 1936® 1936® YOUR TRAVEL TRAVEL COMPANION Known by the ING Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this
where Venice
landmark features 17 monumental altars and ® is the largest church in the city. This medieval church in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in M A G A Z I N E addition to two paintings by Titian, the tombs www.where-venice.com www.where-venice.com and funerary monuments of numerous famous WHERE SRL WHEREITALIA ITALIA SRL Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. people, including Via Milano. ViaEzio EzioBiondi, Biondi, 1. 1. 20154 20154 Milano. Campo dei Frari. T: 041 T:chorusvenezia.org. T:02 02349951 349951--Fax Fax 02 02 33107015 33107015 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2, N (San Tomà stop). info@where-venice.com info@where-venice.com www.where-venice.com Map D4 www.where-venice.com
1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
The islands Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still
WELCOME VENICE WELCOME TO VENICE
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display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy tickets for your trip to these magical destinations. Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 46
Scuola Grande di San Rocco The headquarters of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning building, to which hardly any modifications have been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces by artists of the likes of Giorgione,
FOR REAL VENETIAN LOVERS A trip to Venice is a unique experience: to make sure it’s unforgettable, here are some insider tips to make the most of your visit.
PUBLISHER PUBLISHERAND ANDEDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Santi e Paolo Andrea Jarach AndreaGiovanni Jarach One of the city’s most important examples (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) (andrea.jarach@where-venice.com) of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e
EDITORIAL EDITORIAL Paolo is considered the Pantheon of Venice (PROEDICOMUNICAZIONE COMUNICAZIONE SRL) (PROEDI
because all the Venetian doges, starting from the 13th century, are buried here, together with MANAGING DIRECTOR MANAGING DIRECTOR DanieleMisrachi Misrachi numerous other notable personages. www. Daniele basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it. Campo Santi EDITORIALCOORDINATION COORDINATION EDITORIAL Giovanni Paolo (Please note: this site might be AlessandraeFinzi Finzi (redazione@where-venice.com) Alessandra (redazione@where-venice.com) marked in Venetian dialect as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on MAGAZINE EDITORIAL STAFF Carey Carey Bernitz, Bernitz, MAGAZINE STAFF the city’s EDITORIAL maps). T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 ElenaBinda, Binda, Romena Brugnerotto, Brugnerotto (tourist advisor, Elena Romena (Fondamente Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). www.rominvenice.com), P.K.Stefania Daviddi, Simona P.K. Daviddi, ElenaSimona Peverata, Vida ElenaF3 Peverata, Stefania Vida Map
MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Elisabetta Giudici, MAGAZINE ART DIRECTION Scala Contarini delElisabetta Bovolo Giudici, Joy Lacanlale Joy Lacanlale Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic WEB EDITORIAL STAFF Chiara Fonzi (coordination), WEB EDITORIAL STAFFwhat Chiara Fonzi building. However, makes it(coordination), such a (editor) Fabio (art Giulia Minero FabioLancini Lancini (art direction), direction), Minero (editor) popular attraction today, wasGiulia the addition, by redazione@where-venice.com redazione@where-venice.com its architects, in 1499, of an amazing, external ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where® Italia, Dreamstime, ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Where®enclosed Italia, Shutterstock ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell in a Shutterstock cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: © Where Italia srl. - 2017 CARTOGRAPHY CITY MAP: File © Where Italia - 2017 beauty theby stairwell, combined withsrl. the view OriginalofMap Urban - www.urbanfile.org Original by Urban www.urbanfile.org Fast Trains Map by- Dmitry Goloub that canMap beNetwork enjoyed onFile reaching the top, is well Fast Trains Network Map by Dmitry Goloub worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-1.30pm/2pmMARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo, MARKETING & ADVERTISING Sieva Carolo,Renna, 6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com. c/o Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Rachele Isa Faleschini, Marta Renna, Paola Zannoni Palazzo Contarini delMailhac, Bovolo.Rachele San Marco, 4299 Paola Zannoni (coordination "Welcome to Italy")
(Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605. PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT Vaporetto line 1 or 2Grilli (San Marco PRODUCTION & Paola CIRCULATION, SALES Vallaresso SUPPORT stop). COORDINATOR Paola Grilli COORDINATOR Map E4 ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto
ADMINISTRATION Katia Greto Scuola Grande dei Carmini LOCAL MARKETING Stefano Traine (T: 340 3026288) Housed in a 16th Stefano century Traine palazzo, is the seat LOCAL MARKETING (T:it340 3026288) of an ancient brotherhood and Granata all its original HOTEL RELATION MANAGER Maria (maria.granata@where-venice.com) HOTEL RELATION Granata furnishing and aMANAGER number Maria of priceless oil paintings
(maria.granata@where-venice.com) have beenSERVICES preserved intact. The drama builds CUSTOMER Cristina Garbini, Silvia Maggi CUSTOMER SERVICES Valentina when entering theCristina Sala delGarbini, Capitolo, whose REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 Senatore WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL ROC No. 20182 DEL 14canvases SETTEMBRE 2010 ceiling features nine exceptional painted by the brotherhood’s most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it. Dorsoduro, 2616 Although publisher has made PRINTED BYthe GRAPHICSCALVE SPA every effort to include copyright credits, in the eventPONTE of thereFORMELLO, any errors, oversights or omissions, we would LOCALITÀ 1/3/4 Campo 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE BG like to T: (Campo deibeing Carmini, Santa Margherita). apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next Although theissue. publisherVaporetto has made everyline effort to 041 5289420. 1 include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to (Ca’ Rezzonico stop). apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published inIN theITALY next issue. Where® is also published in Milan by Where® Italia, in Rome by Tourist Media srl Teatro La Fenice and in Naples by IES Comunicazione srl IN ITALY Where® is also published in Milan by Twice destroyed by fireby and twiceMedia restored Where® Italia, in Rome Tourist srl to its former splendour (the lastHOTELS time wassrlbetween EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP and in Naples by IES Comunicazione DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 174, 28 JUNE 2016 PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPAROC No. 20182 DEL 14 SETTEMBRE 2010 WHERE® ITALIA SRL, ISCRITTO AL LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH
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STREET RULES Many ‘calli’ (streets) in Venice are narrow. Keep to the right and avoid loitering. Make sure to take quick ‘clicks’ on Venice’s bridges especially when they’re crowded.
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ACQUA ALTA In the event of ‘acqua alta’ (flooding), use the raised walkways provided. Keep to the right and don’t hang around. Don’t step into the water, because it’s dirty.
OBSTRUCTING PUBLIC TRANSPORT
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When travelling on public transport, please respect the other passengers: avoid blocking the entrance or exit, store your bags where the boat staff tells you and remove your backpacks.
BIKES AND OTHERS MEANS OF TRANSPORTATION
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EATING Apart from restaurants, picknicking is forbidden in the area around St. Mark’s Basilica. Website www.where-venice.com features a list of the best restaurants and ‘bacari’ where you can sample delectable Mediterranean cuisine. Please Note: it’s not done to eat ‘gelato’ before lunch and cappuccino is a ‘no no’ in the afternoon.
DRESS It is forbidden to walk around Venice in a bathing costume or bare-chested. Swimming in Venice’s canals is prohibited. The Lido is the go-to place for bathing. Venice is an elegant ‘grand dame’ and a certain dress code is ‘de rigueur’.
In Venice, adults are prohibited from riding bikes or using or carrying kick scooters. Use the parking lots located at the entrance to the city.
VENETIAN SOUVENIR In the midst of its myriad offerings, always make sure to purchase authentic Venetian goods. These include Murano beads, local biscuits, artisanal prints and masks. By purchasing items from local artisans, you’re supporting the Venetian craft industry.
WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO.
WHERE® VENICE IS GIFT AVAILABLE ONLY IN TOP THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE EXCLUSIVE FROM HOTELS
HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO. WHERE® VENICE È DISTRIBUITO SOLO NELLE CAMERE DEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI VENEZIA E DEL VENETO. WHERE® VENICEVISITOR IS AVAILABLEPUBLICATIONS ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE MOST EXCLUSIVE MORRIS HOTELS IN VENICE AND IN VENETO.
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IfIf being your way way of of life, life, an an instinctive instinctivemindset, mindset,being being being aa tourist tourist is is your
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
Tiepolo and Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its establishment represented an important moment in the history of 16th century Venetian art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open daily, 9.30am5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church €8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 5234864. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery of Modern Art Hosts important 19th and 20th century collections of paintings and sculptures, including masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky, Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.capesaro. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia were instituted as an educational adjunct to the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental
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Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951 by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San
Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is housed in the monumental complex of the former Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, a place of inestimable architectural and artistic prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10. www.cini.it.Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio stop). Map G6
complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions. www. gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop). Map D5
Museo Correr The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic collections describing the changing cityscape of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting important masterpieces of Venetian art from its origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at the museum are arranged in chronological order: in addition to the archaeological section featuring Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., you can also find an extensive range of historical objet d’art made from Murano glass, including important pieces produced between the 15th and 20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10. Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum €12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco
A hidden treasure Hidden in a maze of ‘calli’ and canals, just steps from Campo Manin, visitors will find an architectural gem featuring a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The Scala Contarini del Bovolo is a historic building of unmatched beauty that also owes some of its charm to the intrigue surrounding its namesake staircase. According to historic records, it was commissioned by Pietro Contarini towards the end of 1400 to Giovanni Candi, referred to in historical records as a ‘marangon’, meaning a carpenter as opposed to an architect. This would explain the architectural inconsistencies of the building, which are quite noticeable when climbing the staircase. Mysteries aside, those who are not afraid of heights can climb to the top of this 26m ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell, enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace, to admire a rare view of the city.
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The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum, will take you from the historic area above the atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of St. Mark’s Basilica. Particularly noteworthy are the famous gilded bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s ancient fragments of mosaics. The tour takes visitors through various areas of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing attire that is respectful of the religious nature of the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco 328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’; a highly unusual urban complex that includes the museum itself, the Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery. It contains a small but precious collection of artifacts related to the long history of the Jews in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and English), you can visit three of the area’s five historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
LA FENICE OPERA HOUSE
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18th century) in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo. Full price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535. Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop), lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop). Map D2
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Palazzo Ducale A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, the Ducal Palace features a number of different architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doges, it not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’ which leads to the spacious council rooms and then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s Apartment. Other highlights on this route include the prisons and loggias overlooking the square and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041 2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Palazzo Grassi-Punta della Dogana Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation. They host important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection, one of the world’s largest collections of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an action packed calendar of conferences, concerts and screenings of an international scope. Open daily 10am7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price ticket €18 (Punta della Dogana+Palazzo Grassi). www. palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057. Palazzo Grassi San Marco 3231 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 • Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Mocenigo-Centro Studi di Storia del Tessuto e del Costume Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The exhibits on display include opulent garments and olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings have been integrated with a number of works originating from the warehouses of Venice’s civic museums. Open from 1 April to 31 October: 10am-5pm; from 1 November to 31 March: 10am-4pm. Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price ticket €8. www.mocenigo. visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992. T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map E3
■ OPERA 3, 7 December (Opera Season 2019/2020) DON CARLO by Giuseppe Verdi Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Robert Carsen, director Radu Boruzescu, sets Petra Reinhardt, costumes Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master 13, 15, 17, 19, 21 December at Teatro Malibran PINOCCHIO (Pierangelo Valtinoni) Enrico Calasso, conductor Gianmaria Aliverta, director Alessia Colosso, sets La Fenice Orchestra Children Choir Piccoli Cantori Veneziani ■ CONCERT 4 December DIALOGO ANGELICO with Ex Novo Ensemble Music by Wilhelm F. Bach, Aldo Clementi, Louis Andriessen, Stefano Scodanibbio, Goffredo Petrassi, Nino Rota, Giorgio Federico Ghedini, Philip Glass Manuel Zurria and Daniele Ruggieri, flute
19, 20, 22 December Claus Peter Flor Concert Claus Peter Flor, conductor Music by Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy (Symphony No. 4 in A Major, Op. 90 Italian Symphony – Symphony No. 5 in D Major, Op. 107, Reformation) 29, 30, 31 December and 1 January 2020 NEW YEAR’S CONCERT 2020 Myung-Whun Chung, conductor Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master Music by Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy (Symphony No. 4 in A major, Op. 90 Italian) ■ OTHER EVENTS 8 December, 11am Matinée at the Sale Apollinee Concert-Aperitivo La Fenice Soloists will play excerpts from Jacques Ibert, Darius Milhaud, Maurice Ravel, Jean Françaix and Georges Bizet accompanied on the piano by La Fenice Chorus Master Claudio Marino Moretti.
5 and 6 December (Concert Season 2019/2020) Myung-Whun Chung conduct Mahler Music by Gustav Mahler (Symphony No. 9 in D Major)
■ MUSICA CON LE ALI 10 December Matinée at the Sale Apollinee Concert-Aperitivo Music by Johannes Brahms, Robert Schumann Quartetto di Venezia Giulia Rossini, piano
17 and 18 December (St. Mark’s Cathedral) Marco Gemmani Concert Marco Gemmani, conductor Music by Giovanni Legrenzi (Christmas in St. Mark’s 1670)
■ MUSIKAMERA 11 and 12 December (Sale Apollinee) Music by Johannes Brahms Stefania Redaelli and Maria Grazia Bellocchio, piano
The Teatro La Fenice is usually open for tours daily from 9.30am to 6pm, although variations may occur in the schedule for artistic or technical reasons. The Theatre hosts a Maria Callas exhibition focused on her Venetian years. Ticket: 10 euros (including an audio guide, which is available in 5 languages: Italian, English, German, French and Spanish). www.festfenice.com
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ESSENTIALS
Venice, the floating city Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer. By Simona P. K. Daviddi
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talians (at least many of them), may already know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and pavements. In Venice, canals are the only available communication route, bearing in mind that part of the city extends over a handful of beautiful islands that are scattered across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon city can only be crossed on foot or by boat. Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not all. At times Venice may find itself... under water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can cause the water level to rise by as much as a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised plank walkways, or don rain boots (many shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable 44 W H E R E V E N I C E I D E C E M B E R 2019
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli, campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and salizade are Venetian words used to identify streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is the local word indicating the six districts the city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro, Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and Castello. This division dates back to the 12th century and also includes areas such as La Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore (San Marco) and the Island of San Michele, home to the city’s cemetery (Castello). Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1 and often reach four figures, for example, one of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello is 7,000. You need to learn them if you want to find your way through the spectacular, maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public... and private transportation: its vaporetti, real waterbuses, are the most popular craft used by locals, which is why they are often very crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic experience, the famous, distinctive gondola is an absolute must. This elegant, black, one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across the water, while its gondolier sings an entire repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs. It goes without saying that the waters of the canals are not suitable for swimming, and their banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be so focused on your selfie stick that you walk into a canal because you might be in for some rather unpleasant surprises!
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Emergency POLICE T: 113 AMBULANCE T: 118 FIRE BRIGADE T: 115 TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070 LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179 24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM VENICE
all pharmacies.
Airports INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport offers easy access to numerous destinations located in the Veneto region and in Northern Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport (in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes. The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it). Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to the historic centre of Venice (and vice-versa): • Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately €40); • water taxis (fast, private motorboats, approximately €80 ). This service is operative 24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303). • ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma, €3, luggage included); • ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded); • Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with intermediate stops at strategic points throughout the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com. Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia) can be accessed from all main European and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks the lagoon and is located just steps from the stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines. E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto, take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main Italian cities via high-speed trains, including Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento, Italo, Thello, Eurocity.
Tourist Information APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia. it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637. T: 041 5298711. VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation, admission to tourist attractions and cultural events in the city, plus a number of other useful services. You can purchase your card online and customize your Venezia Unica City Pass to suit your individual travel needs (www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers. Open daily 9am-4pm. T: 392 6786628.
GETTING AROUND VENICE Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of interest are situated just a short distance from each other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution. Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes covers the entire city and includes transportation to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing stages are located at central points around the city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San Marco…) . Tickets - Although paper tickets are available at main embarkation points and from authorized resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV: Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are 6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines. TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand Canal to the other costs 2 euro (only cash).You can pre-purchase reducedprice tickets from Venice Connected: www. veniceconnected.com. IMOB smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices. Although they allow you to save on official rates, they are only recommended for long-term visits. Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to experience a view of Venice that is anything but pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days). TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check official rates
(approximately €80 for 45 minutes and €100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges. Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.gondolavenezia.it Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70) and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services operate in Venice. Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis) are available for hire from 16 landing stages, including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis can be costly, they are the fastest and most practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your concierge. Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the ‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to travel to Mestre by car (24hour parking costs approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to Venice by public transport. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45
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ISOLA DI TESSERA
ISOLA SAN GIACOMO IN PALUDE
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Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
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Japan Pavilion
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United States Pavilion
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Scuola Navale Militare "Francesco Morosini"
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CALLE
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CALLE DEL
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CALLE
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CALLE
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ALBANESI DEI
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CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
DORSODURO SESTIERE FOSCARI CALLE
RAGUSEI
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San Giuseppe di Castello
Russia Pavilion
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CALLE
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Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore
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Basilica di San Pietro di Castello CALLE
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EL
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San Francesco di Paola BALD CALLE
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CALLE
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CALLE
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LL
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Santissimo Redentore
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del
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SAN GI ACOM
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CALLE
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DE LA
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Giardino delle Vergini
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DAM
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
CAMPO
ISOLA DI
GIUDECCA FONDA
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CALLE
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LA
CASTELLO
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PALLADA
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DEI
DE
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
DI
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
La Biennale di Venezia Teatro alle Tese
FON
FONDAMENTA ARSENALOTTI
CALLE
CALLE DELA CREA
Zitelle
IA
La Biennale di Venezia Educational Arsenale
Arsenale di Venezia
San Martino
DEI FORNI
PIETRO
FEM
NUOVE
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Arsenale di Venezia RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
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CALLE
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CASTELLO CASE
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CALLE DE
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Spirito Santo
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CALLE
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DE
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Moise
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San
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RIDOTTO
TREDICI
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VALLARESSO
CALLE
CALLE
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CALLE
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Sant'Eufemia
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SAN
CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO
San Giovanni Battista in Bragora
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CALLE
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San Francesco della Vigna
FRANCESCO
SANTA GIUSTINA
CALLE DEI FURLANI
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CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’
Santa Maria della Pietà VONI
100 m
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CALLE
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SALIZADA
DEL
CALLE
SAN
CALLE DEL PESTRIN
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CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA
San Giovanni di Malta
San Giorgio dei Greci
San Zaccaria
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S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
SALUTE
LAVRANERI
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA
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CALLE
ZON
CALLE SAN LORENZO
CALLE LION
DEGLI
DEGLI
CALLE BOSELLO
VERONA
RIO
CALLE
San Lorenzo
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
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Palazzo
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DEL
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Rio Del
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LA
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Canale
De
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CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA
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CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA
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CAMPO SAN PROVOLO
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CALLE
SPECHIERI
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DE
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DEI PRETI
CALLE
CALLE
GATE
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DRASI
DE
CALLE
CAMPO SAN LORENZO
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CALLE
DEI
DEI
C.
CALLE
S. SAMUELE
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Santa Maria del Pianto
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SAN
CALLE
CALLE
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A N M
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MEZO
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CORTE
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San Giovanni Novo
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Palazzo Ducale
LO
P U N TA S A B B I O N I
NOVE
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
CORTE TREVISAN
Palazzo Querini Stampalia
CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA
DEL
SAN
O
SCHIAVONI
DEGLI
LE VIGNOLE
FONDAMENTA
San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti
Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo
Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo
CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO
FORNO
CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani
BANDE
CORTE
CALLE
LARGA
CALLE
RC
CALLE ERIZZO
DE LE
FRUTARIOLI
CALLE DEL FIGHER
CALLE
PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI
Basilica di San Marco
MA
MO
RIVA
Rio San Lorenzo
CALLE
DEL FORNO
BALONI
CAPPELLO
SAN
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
LIO
MARZARIA
REDIVO
CALLE GOLDONI
CALLE
Marittim
G. GALLINA
DEL
CORTE DEL PRESTRIN
TASCA
CORTE
C.DEI
BIANCA CALLE
ZZA
Museo Correr
FONDAMENTA
O MUSSATO CALLE
ZULIAN
CORTE TORRETTA
PIA
CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO
SAN
FABBRI
LARGA
LARGA
DE LE ERBE
FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI
SALIZADA
DEI
CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO DEL VOLTO
LIO
San Giuliano
SAN
PIGNOLI
CORTE DELLE ANCORE
ORBI
LUCATELLO
MARZARIA DEI
BERLENDIS
CORTE NOVA
CALLE GABRIELI
DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE
CALLE
CALLE
LICINI
MEZO
C.
CORTE GRAGOLINA
Bacino Orseolo
DEI
CALLE
PISCOPIA
CARBON
Salvador
DEL
San
CALLE
Rio
LA
CAMPO DELLA SALUTE
Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute
CALLE DEL BASTION
RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO
NOVE
CALLE
CORTE CORTESE
CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN
CASTELLI
PIOMBO
D. PALLE
CORTE
RUBBI
DE
BOTERI
VARISCO
CALLE
CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO
C. LARGA
CORTE
CALLE
CAPITELLO
BALOTE
GALLO
CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO
CALLE
BEMBO
CALLE
DE
DE LA SACA
CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO
CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO
O
CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO
CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN
CALLE
Santa Maria dei Miracoli
MIRACOLI
Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione
CAMPO
DE LA FAVA
CALICE
DEL
TAGIAPIERA
LE
GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE
SAN
FONDAMENTA
Spirito Santo CALLE
DEI LAVRANERI
San Gerardo
BIAGIO
DEI
V O LT
CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA
DEI
SAN
GALIAZZO
C. DEL
SALVADOR
MARZARIA
CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN
C.DE
STRAZZE TERÀ RIO
Ca' Giustinian
Salute
PONTE
SACCA SAN
FONDAMENTE
LARGA
LE D EL
DEL M ORA
C O RT E B ATA G I A
WIDMANN
RIO
GIAZZO
CAMPO
SALIZADA
SAN
DELLE
CARRO
VENEZIA
CALLE
CAMPO DE LA CARITA’
CAL RAMO
S.Canciano
CALLE
SAN LIO
C. DEL
SABION
C.
C.
DEL
PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE
San Moisè
REMER
CALLE
C.
MANDOLA
AVVOCATI
TERÀ
MAGAZZINI
VOLTI
VENIER
CORTE DEL REMER
FRUTARIOL
CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO
Teatro Malibran
CAMPO SAN BORTOLOMIO
X
CORTE DEL
MARZARIA
MAGAZEN
FRUTARIOL
CALLE
CORTE BAROZZI
O DEL
CINQUE
RIO
CALLE
AI
DEI
C.
DEL
FREZZERIA
CAMPO SAN MOISE’
COCCO
TOSCANA
GRIMANI
CAVALLI
DE
MOISE’
CALLE
DE
CALLE
CALLE
CORNER
LUCA
DEL
CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO
SA PISCINA
XXII MARZO
RI
Palazzo Genovese
CASTELLO
CALLE
CALLE
Stazione
ORESI
MADONA
SAN
CALLE
PISCINA
LA CHIESA
DRIO
LARGA
CAMPIELLO CONTARINI
SESTIERE
DEI
PARANGON
RUGA
DE LA
FORNO
RAMO
CALLE
Palazzo Pisani Gritti
Collezione Peggy Guggenheim
DEL FORNO
MAZZINI
San Salvador
TEATRO
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CORTE
MICHIEL
SAN CANZIAN
FONTEGO
PIO
DEL CALLE
LOCANDE
ASSASSINI
San Fantin
CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO
Santa Maria del Giglio
CHIESA
CALLE DEL NAVARO
C. DEL
SALIZZADA
TEATRO
CALLE
CORTE
SAN SALVADOR
CORTE DEL
Palazzo Nervi Scattolin
CAMPO MANIN
PATERNIN
MANDOLA
TERÀ
RIO
Teatro la Fenice Maria del Giglio
CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION
Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto
Rialto
LARGA
DEL
DELLA
SALIZADA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CALLE
BARBA
CAMPIELLO VALMARANA
CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON
CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO
San Giacomo di Rialto
CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO
CALLE
SAN CALLE
MARCO
CAFETIER
CAOTORTA
Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda
FOND. VENIER DAI LEON
CAPPUZZI
SANTO
ZEN
SARTORI
TERÀ
CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA
FABBRICHE
CALLE
DOLERA
SPIRITO
CAMPO DEI GESUITI
FONDAMENTA
FOND.
RIO
SALIZADA
LE
CALLE
zera
CATERINA
CALLE
GALIZZI
RIELO
SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE
LORENZO
FONDAMENTA
C. SAN
SCOAZZERA DE LA
LE PAZIENZE
ALLO
Chiesa dei Gesuiti
SANTA
San Giovanni Grisostomo
CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA
Teatro Carlo Goldoni
CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA
TEATRO
CALLE
DEL
CALLE
CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI
San MaurizioSanta
Canal Grande
CALLE
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
Giudecca Hilton
CATENE
S.ANDREA
PRIULI
NOVA
PESCARIA
Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)
S.Silvestro
DEL
CALLE
CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO
Santo Stefano
CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO
ZATTERE
VAPORETTO
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
Santa Sofia
STRADA
San Silvestro
CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA
Palazzo Grimani
San Beneto San Luca
NARISI
BOTEGHE
CAMPO PISANI
CAMPO DI SAN VIO
CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE
AI GESUATI
Zattere
NOVE
CALLE
CAMPO DELLA
RAVANO
STURION
C. DE
RIO TERA’
L' ARZERE
GUARDIANI
DE
TODESCHI
CALLE
CANAL RIO TERA’
C. DEI
LE
FOND.
CAMPO DE LE ERBE
STUA
BECARIE
DEL
RUGHETA
DEI
DE
CAMPO SANTO STEFANO
CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL
C.SANT'AGNESE
NANI
ZATTERE
DEL
LA
CAMPO DE LA
DEL SOL
DEL
ROSSA
nde Canal Gra
FONDAMENTA
RAGUSEI
FONDAMENTA
CROSERA
CALLE
DEL PISTOR
CALLE
FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTE
Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana
CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI
CAMPIELLO
C.
FOND.
SAN
CROSERA
San Vidal
Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione
CALLE
VENDRAMIN
MUTI
CAMPO SAN APONAL
CALLE
CALLE
CA’
BOTA
Sant’Aponal PERDON
CALLE
de r an
CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE
TRAGHETTO
CAMPO SAN TROVASO
LA
CARAMPANE
DEL
DEL
FONDAMENTA BONLINI
LE
CORTE DELL’ALBERO
SAMUELE
Palazzo Loredan
CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ
LONGO
IA
DE
DE
Palazzo Fortuny
DI SAN MARCO
CALLE
CAZZIOLA
San Trovaso
OGNISANTI
CA'
DEL
DE DE
CARAMPANE
TERÀ
CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI
SESTIERE
S.
CARROZZE
al G
Sant'Angelo
VECCHIA
LEZZE SALIZADA
LE
Abazia della Misericordia D
R
San Cassiano CALLE CALLE
RIO
CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI
TRAGHETTO
DE
O
San Felice
TIOZZI
CAMPO SAN CASSAN
L’AGNELLA
Can
DEL
FOND.
PONTE
IC
CALLE
DEI
DE
Palazzo Querini-Dubois
CA’ CORTE
DE
Accademia
Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia
BEATE GIULIANA
SACCA
FISOLA
LARGA
ER
d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro
CALLE
CORTE DEL TIOZZI
C.
CORTE DEL TEATRO
CAMPO SAN POLO
CALLE RAMO
CALLE
S. Samuele
FALIER
ZATTERE AL
CALLE CHIESA
IS
TRAPOLIN
DE
Santa Fosca
S.Stae
DE
SCALETER
Palazzo Giustinian Persico
S. Toma' SX
Palazzo Grassi San Samuele
CALLE
FODAMENTA
S. Basilio
DELLA
M
FONDAMENTA
San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale
CALLE CA’BONVINCINI
DEL
San Tomà
Ca' Rezzonico
A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA
Giudecca Hilton FONDAMENTO CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO
CALLE
CONTARINI
dell'Orto
TA
NA
La Maddalena
CALLE
TENTOR
BOLDO
C.
EN
TRON
DEL
CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI
SAN
AM
SOTOPORTEGO
C.
Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo
CAMPO SAN TOMÀ CALLE
FONDAMENTA
DIETRO
C.
MEZO
CAMPO
ZANE
Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
CALLE BERNARDO
D
MORETTI
DE
CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO
SAN POLO
CAMPO DEI FRARI
CROSERA
CAMPO DEI SQUELINI
N
FONDAMENTA
CAMPO SAN STIN
TOMÀ
CALLE
Ca' Rezzonico
FONDAMENTA
Madonna
MORI
CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE
L
CALLE
Rio Nuovo
TABACCHI
PRETI
San Barnaba
NA
CALLE
SAN
CAMPO SAN ROCCO
DEI
L’ASEO
CA
DONZELA
NUOVA
TINTORETTO
DE
CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA
LE
ALE
LA
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
CALLE
NIE
DD
DE
PAPADOPOLI
TERÀ
CALLE
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
RIO
Basilica dei Frari
San Rocco
Muneghete
RENIER
FOMO
.DA
MA
SAN BOLDO
CALLE
CALLE DE LA LACA
le
PANTALON
CAMPO SAN PANTALON
DEL
CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA
LA
Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni
CALLE
CALLE
OCHE
LATTE
LACA
FONDARIA
CIMESIN
de
San Pantalon
CALLE
CALLE
INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON
DE OGNISANTI
DEI
FO
À D E
C.
TOLENTINI
FONDAMENTA
DEI
LA
CALLE DELL'OLIO
FON.
DE
LA
RAMO
CIMESIN
NUOVO
Chiesa di Ognissanti
FONDAMENTA
Misericordia
FO de Servi N
TER
Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale
L’ISOLA
OCHE
C.VENZATO
LA
TINTOR
CALLE
DE
DE LA VIDA
DEL
Bacino
TERA’
RAMO
CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO CALLE
DEI
LIBERTÀ
VECCHIO BERGAMASCHI
SIMEONE
Scomen
RIO
BARI
DELLA
SAN
TRAGHETTO CALLE
Canale
CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’
San Giacomo dall'Orio
RUGA BELA
CALLE ORSETTI
DE
CALLE
C. CAMPAZZO DE
CALLE
Rio
BASEGO
RIO
CAMPO DEI CARMINI
della
Rio
RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA
Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola
CALLE CAZZA
CALLE SAVIO
RUGA VECCHIA
DEI
LUNA
RAMO
CALLE
Carmini
Santa Maria dei Carmini
Rio
CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA
DEL REMER
BARI
CAMPO
CANAL CORTE
LA
DEI AMAI
SALIZADA
del
CALLE DE LA CHIESA
CAMPO SAN BESAGIO
IA
CALLE
C.
BESAGIO
RD
R
San Marcuola
CAMPIELLO
BIASIO
DI
RIVA
LISTA
FONDAMENTA
Soranzo Cappello
DE CAMPO
MINOTTO
Magazen
SAN
Rio
SAN
NAZARIO Palazzo FONDAMENTA SAURO Soranzo Capello GARZOTTI
Giardino di Palazzo
NUOVE
San Nicola da Tolentino
Del
Rio dei Tolentini
FONDAMENTA
CALLE CONTARINA
BRIATI
DORSODURO
San Sebastiano SALIZADA
San Simeone Profeta
NUOVA
CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO
CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN
CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO
LARGA
PONTE CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL
C.
Angelo Raffaele
DORSODURO
ICO
RIO
nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso
CALLE
CASE
CALLE
CERERI
FONDAMENTA
LARDONI
della
CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI
ER
VECCHIO
TRONCHETTO
SPAGNA
TERÀ
FONDAMENTA
Ferrovia
LUNGA
PROCURATIE
DEI
CALLE
RIZZI FONDAMENTA
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
CORTE
FONDAMENTA
Rio
PENSIERI
DE L’OGIO
I CALLE ORSETT
DEI
DEI FONTEGHERI
CALLE
MIS
NOVA
MISERICORDIA
DI LISTA RIO
DEI Ponte degli Scalzi
FONDAMENTA
San Simeon Piccolo
CROCE
C. LAVADORI SANT'ANDREA
TABACCHI
FONDAMENTA
CALLE
SAN MICHELE
DELL'ORTO
TA
E DEL PISTO
STRADA
LA
TERÀ
TERÀ
MADONA
Madonna dell'Orto
MADONNA
A
EN
CALL
San Leonardo
San Geremia
DE
RIO
LA
AM
I
CALLE TRAGHETTO
CALLE
LA
Giardino Papadopoli
PIAZZALE ROMA RIO
FABBRICA FONDAMENTA
DE
CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI
LER
NA
CROCE
CALLE
NICOLO’
NS
Rio
ER LE P
EONARDO
SAN LEONARDO
CAMPO SAN GEREMIA
CAVALLETTI
Ferrovia
Ferrovia
Sant'Andrea
SANT'ANDREA
SAN
San Nicolò dei Mendicoli
CALLE
SE
ND
Museo Ebraico CAL
S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO
SCALZI
TERÀ
MARTA
Istituto Universitario Di Architettura
CALLE SAN BASILIO
CAMPIELLO P I AV E
FONDAMENTA
TA
FO
Santa Maria di Nazareth
P.le Roma
Ponte della Costituzione FO.
RIO
People Mover Venezia
SANTA FONDAMENTA
MATTA DI CA’
CALLE CASE NUOVE
EN
CANNAREGIO
SE
AI
People Mover Venezia
S A N TA
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
CALLE
AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO
AM
San Girolamo
CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO
PRIULI
Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
ITTICO MERCATO DIREZIONE
TRONCHETTO
Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo
Sant'Alvise
CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E
ND
INE
CALLE
ZZ
A E M
CALLE
TRONCHETTO
Parcheggio Bus Turistici
VENEZIA
di Sant'Alvise
Sensa FO
PU
SAVORGNAN
FONDAMENTA
CA
DEL
LE
O
CALLE
DE
AM
MATTIA
TA
OL
SAN
EN
LL
NOVA DEL
AM
N G IR
CA
ISOLA
People Mover Venezia
ND
SA
Palazzo Nani FONDAMENTA
L’ARCO
TA
LLO
CALLE
FO
EN
TE
Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo
DOGE
AM
B AT
CALLE
ND
TA
CAMPIELLO TRAGHETTO
FORNER
EN
SEBASTIANO
DEL
AM
CANNAREGIO
di Cannaregio
BRAGADIN
CALLE
ND
della
COLETTI
FO
Canale
GIOBBE
CAMPO SAFFA
DE
Rio
CARLO
FO
FONDAMENTA
SAN
San Giobbe
SAN
Rio
FOND.A
Ponte dei Tre Archi
FONDAMENTA
VENIER FONDAMENTA
PENITENTI
CANNAREGIO
DEL SABION
LARGA
FONDAMENTA
CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO
VECCHIA
Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze
ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI
CALLE
Santa Maria delle Penitenti
CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER
FONDAMENTA
F O N D A M E N TA
TA’
CORTE
ER
RUGA
Parco
B
SANT'AGNESE
LI
BRAGADIN
LA
PISCINA
EL
NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO
ISOLA DELLE TRESSE
FAUSTA
Chiesa di San Michele in Isola
D
FONDAMENTA
LE
INCURABILI
A
CALLE ZUCCHERO
VI
P
O
N
A
SA
TA
M
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ET
TA
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ISA
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Tempio Votivo Della Pace Di Venezia
VIA
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SAN SERVOLO
LU
11
S. Servolo
ISOLA LA GRAZIA
O
VI
A
DE
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VIA
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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia
VI
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CA
ND
IA
SANDRO
LU
NG
OM
AR
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PO
VI
VIA
VIA
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Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'
LIDO DI VENEZIA 100 m
IS
VIA
SANDRO
ISOLA
GALLO
DI LEMNO
LU
Monastero Armeno Mechitarista
ISOLA SAN CLEMENTE
LAZZARETTO VECCHIO
Palazzo del cinema del Lido di Venezia VI
A
M
O
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SI
N
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N
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ISOLA DELLE ROSE
AR
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Hotel Excelsior Venice
LI
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S. Antonio Di Padova
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5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4 Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5 Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5 Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6 Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3 Hotel Danieli, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Venice – Castello, 4196 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • F5 Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Grande Albergo Ausonia & Hungaria – Gran Viale S. M. Elisabetta, 28 (Lido) • Off Map Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto) • E2 Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6 JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna di San Marco) • Off Map Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4 Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4 Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5 San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1 • Off Map SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5 The Gritti Palace – San Marco, 2467 (Campo S. Maria del Giglio) • E5 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4 Ai Cavalieri di Venezia – Castello, 6108 (Calle Borgolocco) • F4 Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2 Ai Reali di Venezia – Castello, 5527 (Campo della Fava) • F4 Best Western Premier Collection CHC Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3 Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map Bisanzio – Riva degli Schiavoni-Calle della Pietà, 3651 • G4 Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4 Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5 Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce, 578 • C3 Carnival Palace – Fondamenta di Cannaregio, 929 • C2 Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del Cavalletto) • F4 Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4 Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4 Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3 Firenze – San Marco, 1490 • F5 Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3 Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map Le Ville del Lido – Via Bragadin, 38 (Lido) • Off Map Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4 L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3 Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4
Maison Venezia | UNA Esperienze – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3 Monaco & Grand Canal – San Marco, 1332 (Calle Vallaresso) • F5 Nani Mocenigo Palace – Dorsoduro, 960 (Fondamenta Nani) • D5 NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A (Corte dell’Albero) • E4 NH Rio Novo – Dorsoduro, 3489/E-C (Calle Larga Ragusei) • C4 Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4 Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5 Palazzo Giovanelli – Santa Croce, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3 Palazzo Guardi – Dorsoduro, 995 • D5 Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5 Palazzo Veneziano – Dorsoduro, 1413 • D5 Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3 Petit Palais Venice – Lungomare Marconi, 54 (Lido) • Off Map Principe – Cannaregio, 146 (Lista di Spagna) • D3 Quattro Fontane – Via Quattro Fontane, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4 Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4 Russo Palace Hotel – Riviera San Nicolò, 11/a (Lido) • Off Map Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4 San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4 Santa Chiara – Santa Croce, 548 • C3 Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4 Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5 SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4 Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco Mercerie) • F4 Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco, 288 • F4 Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map Villa Mabapa – Riviera San Nicolò, 16 (Lido) • Off Map Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map BOUTIQUE & CHARME HOTELS TOP Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta de l'Osmarin) • G5 Aqua Palace – Castello, 5492/a (Calle de la Malvasia) • F4 Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5 Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3 Canal Grande – Santa Croce, 932 • D3 Dei Dragomanni – San Marco, 2711 • E5 Flora – San Marco, 2283/a • E4 Heureka – Cannaregio, 3534 • E2 La Calcina – Dorsoduro, 789 (Zattere) • D6 Moresco – Dorsoduro, 3499 (Fondamenta del Passamonte) • D4 Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 (Calle del Scaleter) • D4 Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 (Ramo Grassi) • D4 Palazzo Abadessa – Cannaregio, 4011 (Calle Priuli) • E3 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4
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Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4 Palazzo Priuli – Fondamenta de l'Osmarin, 4979 • G4 Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3 CLASSIC Ad Place Venice – San Marco, 2557/A (Fondamenta della Fenice) • E5 Al Ponte Antico – Cannaregio, 5768 (Calle dell’Aseo) • F3 Antiche Figure – Santa Croce, 687 • C3 Antico Doge – Cannaregio, 5643 • F3 Arcadia – Cannaregio, 1333 (Rio Terà S. Leonardo) • D2 Belle Arti – Dorsoduro, 912/A (Rio Terrà Foscarini) • D5 Bloom B&B – San Marco, 3470 • E4 Ca’ del Campo – San Marco, 511 (Campo della Guerra) • F4 Ca’ Gottardi – Cannaregio, 2283 • E3 Ca’ Pagan – San Marco, 3268 (Calle delle Carrozze) • D4 Casa Verardo – Castello, 4765 (Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo) • F4 Charming House – Dorsoduro, 724 (San Vio) • E5 Corte di Gabriela – San Marco, 3836 (Calle Avvocati) • E4 Le Isole – Castello, 4661 (Campo San Provolo) • G4 Locanda Ca’ del Brocchi – Dorsoduro, 470 (Rio Terà San Vio) • E5 Locanda de la Spada – San Marco, 2488/a (Campo Santa Maria del Giglio) • E5 Locanda Fiorita – San Marco, 3457/a (Campiello Novo) • E4 Novecento – San Marco, 2683 (Calle Dose) • E5 Oltre il Giardino – San Polo, 2542 (Fondamenta Contarini) • D4 Palazzo Barbarigo sul Canal Grande – San Polo, 2765 (Calle Corner) • E4 OUT OF TOWN 4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve) Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve) Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve) Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino (Ve) Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15 – Mestre (Ve) Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda, 240/244 – Tessera (Ve) Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 – Tessera (Ve) Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1 – Mestre (Ve) Leonardo Royal Hotel Venice VENIC Mestre - Via Ca’ Marcello, 6 – E CITY GUIDE Mestre (Ve) NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve) Villa Barbarich – Via Molino Ronchin, 1 – Mestre (Ve)
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