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MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

JUNE 2020

GRAND TOUR

Discover & Enjoy Italy

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NOW READY TO WELCOME YOU! BEST DESTINATIONS BEAUTY AND DINING ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

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W W W. T H E M E R C H A N T O F V E N I C E . C O M

Milan June 2020 Sant'Ambrogio

the guide

Como

30 SHOPPING

High-quality dining has found an ideal home at Eataly Smeraldo in the Porta Nuova district, a crossroads of open-air locales and futuristic architecture.

WINE EXPERIENCE

54 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS

MILAN CITY GUIDE ®

W W W.WHEREMIL AN.COM

JUNE 2020

GRAND TOUR

Discover & Enjoy Italy

Contents

NOW READY TO WELCOME YOU! BEST DESTINATIONS BEAUTY AND DINING ALL YOU CAN DO IN THE CITY

4 TOP IN TOWN

20 WINE EXPERIENCE

Discover the city, starting from its main landmark attractions and several not to be missed events.

Travelling from north to south, Where® presents a review of wines produced by VIPs who have decides to invest in the wine sector…

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COVER IMAGE CASTELLO SFORZESCO

www.wheremilan.com www.magzter.com Digital magazine store www.pressreader.com Digital magazines issuu.com/where-italia Digital magazines Follow us on Twitter @WhereMilan Like us on facebook.com/WhereMilan Follow us on Instagram @where_milan Watch us on YouTube

10 NOW OPEN! Where® has selected for you several of the most important (and unique) locations in the city, just opened to the public.

12 DISCOVERING

ITALIAN LANDSCAPE The variery and beauty of its landscape is what makes Italy unique: a combination of nature and art that delights the eye and the heart.

The best fashion designers for your high-end shopping, while browsing the boutiques in the centre of Milan and enjoying its beauties.

38 THE WORLD OF ARMANI In Milan, Giorgio Armani is not simple a fashion brand but rather an integral part of the city life.

16 VIRTUAL TOURS

45 FASHION AND DESIGN

There are many ways to discover the cultural offer in Italy: online, of course!

Don’t miss a trip to the city’s outlying fashion outlets, just a few kilometres from Milan.

OF ITALIAN MUSEUMS

With its gilded altars, priceless relics, mysterious legends and archaeological finds, the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio never ceases to amaze. 56 ESSENTIALS

Information and tips to get around the city and to experience the best that Milan has to offer.

37 TOP BRANDS

OUTLETS

LAK OF

50 DINING

VIA

» MAP PAGE 58-59 Isola Chinatown & Porta Paolo Sarpi San Siro Nuova

CityLife

Sempione & Castello

Brera

Centrale Buenos Aires Lambrate Porta

Venezia

Fashion Quad Vercelli & San Babila Belfiore Duomo 5 Giornate Sant'Ambrogio 5 Vie Università degli Studi Porta Romana Navigli Tortona Lodi ZZA

GRAND TOUR

VIA PORL E

Il Bisonte opens its doors to lovers of the highest-quality leather goods, revealing its summer 2020 collection.

DISCOVER

ENJOY

CITY GUIDE www.whereitalia.com

YOUR TRAVEL ING COMPANION SINCE 1936®

where Milan ®

WELCOME TO ITALY

M A G A Z I N E

We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you. Now, we’re ready to show you the most beautiful country in the world.

www.wheremilan.com PROEDI MEDIA - WHERE

Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano. T: 02 349951 - Fax 02 33107015 info@proedimedia.com www.wheremilan.com PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

The recent pandemic has severely affected one of

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com

Recommended by

COO

Pierfrancesco Coreno pierfrancesco.coreno@proedimedia.com

MILANO LOVES YOU

Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®

MANAGING EDITOR

Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY

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for centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world. Every night is followed by a new dawn, and you can already see some

CARTOGRAPHY

City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Metro Map and Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2020, Mario Camerini MARKETING & ADVERTISING

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signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best equipped in the world.

PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, SALES SUPPORT MANAGER

Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are

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only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is

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made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was

Maria Granata maria.granata@proedimedia.com

a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth,

CUSTOMER SERVICES

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settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in

REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 453, 19 JULY 2010 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG)

Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

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Where® magazine and the where® logo are registered trademarks of Morris Visitor Publications.

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and drop in available revenue at the time of

remember we’re talking about Italy: a favourite destination of travelers

CONTRIBUTORS

Morris Visitor Publications

industry. The current lockdown, closing of borders writing this editorial could be very depressing, but

Alessandra Finzi redazione@proedimedia.com

MVP

the linchpins of the global economy – the tourism

the creation of Italy. So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance! Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance. We look forward to seeing you soon! The Publisher

>> To check the opening of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com

[ SIGHTSEEING]

Top in Town 15 12

DUOMO 1 Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. It houses a number of interesting museums 4 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Map E4 CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. Map D4 PALAZZO REALE 5 Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently

one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square. Map F5 PIAZZA SCALA 6 The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala. In the center of the square is the monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4

SEE MAP PAGE 58

BRERA DISTRICT 8 This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces. Map F3 AMBROSIANA 9 The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 NAVIGLI 10 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years

ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots. Map E6 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Europe. Off Map SANT’AMBROGIO 12 One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried. Map E5 PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola

districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi. Map S2 TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. Map D3 CIMITERO MONUMENTALE 15 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras. Map E1 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 5

LANDMARK | CLASSIC

DUOMO DI MILANO A PREMIER SYMBOL OF THE CITY

6 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

− After crossing the threshold of its 18th century façade in Candoglia marble, the interior of the Cathedral is revealed in all its majesty. One of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church, constructed over a period of 450 years (begun 1386), is the symbol of Milan. Built in the shape of a Latin cross, the cathedral is divided by soaring pillars into five naves, the largest of which measures 45 metres in height. Its inside columns measure 3 and a half metres in diameter. The interior boasts an apse with a large rose − window, stained glass windows decorated with episodes from the Bible, chapels and high marble columns with capitals featuring statues of saints. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic − you must ascend to the roof (either by elevator or by steps) where you will be surrounded by an outburst of pinnacles, turrets and marble statuary and, naturally, the city’s famed golden “Madonnina”. Here you can wander among 135 spires and 3,400 statues. Guided tours for small groups help visitors − learn about the secrets behind the Duomo’s construction. The tour starts from the back of the choir which leads to the Crypt housing the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo, and then moves on to the Archaeological Area where you’ll find the remains of the Battistero di San Giovanni alle Fonti, dating back to 397 A.D. This is where Sant’Ambrogio christened St. Augustine. Next is the old Basilica of Santa Tecla (4th century). Before accessing the Cathedral and its treasures, − visit the nearby Museo del Duomo, located inside Palazzo Reale. The museum houses more than 150 masterpieces from the 15th century to the present time, including statues, architectural models, plaster casts, terracottas and paintings. If you’re on a tight schedule but want to learn − more about the secrets of the Duomo, you can take advantage of the new Duomo Milano App for smartphones, featuring images and content in 9 languages including Italian, English, French, German, Spanish, Russian, Chinese, Japanese and Portuguese. www.duomomilano.it PH © VENERANDA FABBRICA DEL DUOMO

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LANDMARK | NEWCOMER

PORTA NUOVA

AN UPWARD SPIRALING CITY

8 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

Porta Nuova is a sprawling − area, the result of a project of urban and architectural redevelopment involving the area that leads from the Porta Garibaldi railway station to Piazza della Repubblica, up to Palazzo Lombardia. In 2005, an architectural − project curated by American real estate developer Hines focused on transforming the area into a technological hub comprising more than twenty buildings including skyscrapers, offices, cultural centres and urban residences. Several of Milan and Italy’s − highest and most innovative skyscrapers, including the futuristic CityLife complex (visible in the background), are located in the Porta Nuova district. Among these, the Torre UniCredit –housed in the vibrant Piazza Gae Aulenti -,

the Torre Solaria – the highest residential skyscraper in Italy-, the Torre Diamante and the green complex of the Bosco Verticale featuring hanging gardens designed by Stefano Boeri. The large public − park in the middle of the neighbourhood, known as the BAM Biblioteca degli Alberi, extending over an area of 90,000 sq.m., was designed to provide a vast number of interconnecting pedestrian paths and to create a real botanical library. The park features over 450 trees and 90,000 different plant species, plus recreational areas, themed circular forests, teaching paths and pedestrian and bike paths. In summer, the park is also used to host outdoor concerts and events. www.porta-nuova.com

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[ INSIDER TIPS]

Now Open! After a long lockdown, some of the most important museums, cultural hubs and shopping destinations in the city have finally re-opened their doors to their guests. Check our insider tips to help you plan your visit.

Leonardo3 Museum

Pettinaroli

UNIQUE The boutique in the heart of Brera boasts a wide selection of maps and globes, an assortment of exclusive Italian handcrafted leather, writing paper, business cards and printed documents: the ideal location for a souvenir or collector's item. www.fpettinaroli.it

The discovery of Leonardo da Vinci, the artist and inventor, with working models of his machines and digitalized restorations of his paintings. A worldwide first. www.leonardo3.net Sat-Sun and holidays, 11am-7pm.

Rinascente Pinacoteca Ambrosiana

The picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. Don’t miss the Raphael’s cartoon of “The School of Athens” and the “Codex Atlanticus” by Leonardo. www.ambrosiana.it Sat-Sun, 10am-6pm.

ALL IN ONE 10 storeys featuring a refined, contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Constant new arrivals from the most prestigious brands and emerging talents. www.rinascente.it

Vigna di Leonardo

The Casa degli Atellani house museum with a private urban park and a raw of vines: maybe the original strain of the vineyard Leonardo da Vinci received as a gift from Ludovico Sforza... www.vignadileonardo.com Wed and Sat 12.30am-2.30pm/6.30pm-8.30pm.

Pisa Orologeria

PASSION A watch lover’s paradise for over 70 years. 1,000 square metres dedicated to forty brands that have made the history of Haute Horlogerie. Prestigious timepieces with particular attention to the latest innovations. www.pisaorologeria.com

Museo Poldi Pezzoli

The House Museum houses a remarkable collection of Italian Renaissance masters and displays weapons, ceramics, glass textiles and jewellery. www.museopoldipezzoli.it Wed-Mon 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm. 10 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

Palazzo Reale

One of the most important cultural centres in the city. Don’t miss the “Georges de La Tour” exhibition until 27 September. www.palazzorealemilano.it Thurs 11am-10.30pm; Fri-Sat-Sun, 11am-7.30pm.

Gallerie d'Italia

Three historic buildings hosting masterpieces of 19th century Italian art and 20th century masterpieces from the Intesa Sanpaolo collections. Don’t miss the “Canova and Thorvaldsen” exhibition until 28 June. www.gallerieditalia.com. Tues-Sun, 11am-7pm.

Villa Necchi Campiglio

An icon of the art déco constructed by Milanese architect Piero Portaluppi in the heart of the city. necchicampiglio.it Wed-Sun, 10am-6pm.

THE WORLD OF LEONARDO DA VINCI EXCLUSIVE WORLD PREMIERE EXHIBITION WITH NEW DISCOVERIES, CODICES, MACHINES AND PAINTINGS

Milan, Piazza della Scala at the entrance of Galleria temporary opening hours: saturdays, sundays and holidays

11 am - 7 pm

Audio guide in Chinese, English, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, Russian and Spanish info:

www.leonardo3.net

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

Discovering Italian Landscape The variety and beauty of its “landscape” is what makes Italy unique. This term is not always easily translatable but relates to the environment and the many ways in which man has transformed it, during its multifaceted history. The result is a combination of nature and art that delights the eye and the heart.

12 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

The Italian ‘Lake district’

Over the past few years, due to the influx of Hollywood celebrities, Lake Como has become the most famous of all the lakes. An almost uninterrupted sequence of villas, each with its own landing stage, decorates the banks of this idyllic lakeside resort. However, Northern Italy also has two other famous lakes that attract visitors from far and wide: Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda. The former is more tranquil and shadier, while the latter, so vast that it looks like a still sea, is more vibrant and windier. Its expanse of water and the diversity of the countryside make the area a real outdoor recreation ground. Como, Maggiore and Garda combine to form one of the most enchanting splashes of scenery in Northern Italy. Garda, in particular, is renowned for its fabulous citrus fruits and DOP olive oil.

Mantua, the city of the Gonzagas

Though less well-known than Venice or Florence, Mantua, a charming city situated in Northern Italy on the banks of the River Mincio, is packed with art treasures. Governed by the Gonzaga family for four centuries, from circa 1300 to 1700, this Lombard city experienced its maximum period of splendour during the Renaissance, when its most famous masterpieces were executed. A renowned patron of the arts, Isabella d’Este, the Marchesa of Mantua and the wife of Federico Gonzaga, summoned

artists like Titian, Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci and Correggio to her court. Inspired by his mother’s passion for collecting art, Federico II invited Raphael’s pupil Giulio

Bologna, the university of Italy

Built in 1088, most historians agree that the University of Bologna is the oldest university in the world. Thanks to the continuous turnover of students from all over the world, from medieval times to the present day, this university has made Bologna a vibrant city from many aspects; cultural, creative, artistic and social. It is therefore not surprising that many people relate to the words of Giosuè Carducci, one of the most important Italian poets, who wrote in 1888: “I love Bologna; for the faults, the mistakes, the follies of my youth which I committed here, and which I cannot regret, but I love it more because it’s beautiful.” Must-visit sights include the historic centre with its porticoes and towers, streets and markets, and main square with the enormous Basilica di San Petronio. Its hilly surroundings are also breathtaking.

Portofino, home to the ‘piazzetta’ and mysterious villas

With its narrow streets leading down to the sea, pastel-washed houses and crystal clear waters, Portofino is the ideal harbor. It is therefore no surprise that since ancient

Taormina Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como PH © STEFANO VALERI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olives groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence.

Tuscan

Portofino

Matera

times, this beautiful coastal village has been a highly sought-after holiday destination. And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino is a reference point for international tourism. Although its hotels are astronomically priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, or a stroll around its designer shops can be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are many anecdotes about the town which was used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after the tomb was opened and his villa became a site of sinister, inexplicable happenings…

Tuscany, the Italy that everyone dreams about

There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent works of Michelangelo and his marble statues. 14 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square. There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique throughout the world. Ultimately, there are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians and foreigners. There are gently rolling hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding streets and stone houses scattered around the countryside. The Tuscan experience is bound to win over your heart. However, if you haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof! Ah, the wonders of Tuscany!

northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts are located. The summer getaway for the rich and famous including financiers, big names in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to defend the shipment of the precious marble quarried from the nearby town of Carrara, thus making it an important crossroads for trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury shopping.

Forte dei Marmi: the sea of Tuscany

“See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic and neglected. People are friendly and ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee

In addition to being the birthplace of a queen (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of

Naples and then…

are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee for yourself, and then purchasing another one for someone else who doesn’t have the money to pay for it. Naples is the ideal starting point to explore the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one of the most incredible archaeological sites in the world.

Matera, the hidden pearl of the South

When it becomes the European capital of culture in 2019, Materia will get the visibility it deserves. Matera was founded in the dark ages, and is one of the most intriguing places in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the other, they overhang a gorge to create an incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia, the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist track, Matera has often been used as a film set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The Passion of Christ’.

The Kingdom of Baroque

Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the names of Sicily’s magical Baroque towns. Protected by UNESCO, and located in southeastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your heart and leave you awestruck. Although almost all of these towns existed during medieval times, they were razed to the ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693. However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle of beauty: architecture, urban planning and the ornamentation of buildings constitute the crowning achievement of one of the last periods of the flourishing Baroque movement in Europe. An absolute marvel!

STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY originally covered the Colosseum. They were ‘recycled’ to build several historic Roman buildings including the Basilica of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini.

Florence

Venice

With canals in the place of streets, and boats instead of cars, Venice, the city of a thousand bridges, spectacular facades, and breathtaking views, offers a dreamlike vision. This romantic city par excellence, has a wealth of historic and artistic treasures that would be difficult to find in any country other than Italy. To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze wander over the lagoon.

How can one describe a city which originated in the Renaissance in just a few words? It’s impossible! The only solution is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria, Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It is really no surprise that the entire city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since there is not one centimeter that is not worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that you make time to lose yourself amidst its art and architecture, its history and its landscapes. There’s just one thing that you need to remember: this is the place where Stendhal experienced what was later to become known as the Stendhal syndrome…

Rome

Fifteen square kilometers and twentyfive-thousand attractions: Rome’s historic centre has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1980. A symbol among symbols and the most widely photographed monument in the world, the Colosseum is considered one of the 7 wonders of the modern world. The memory of its performances – gladiators, wild animals and naval battles – re-enacted in the arena have always fueled the fantasy of history and film buffs. However, everyone is aware of what happened to the 100,000 cubic metres of shining white marble that

Rome

Florence

Turin

A Roman colony, the first capital of Italy and an industrial city. From its origins to the present time, Turin has had several different incarnations, each of which has left profound traces in its architecture and urban layout. Extending over a surface area of less than 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes getting your bearings easy. One of the city’s most distinctive architectural features is its 18km of porticoes which house shops and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant squares have given Turin the nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city.

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WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”, Milan

16 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

Virtual Tours of ITALIAN Museums Though some of the major museums in Italy are now open upon reservation, there are many other ways to discover their cultural offer without the need to book your seat. Where? Online, of course! We've rounded up a selection of the Italian museums offering virtual tours and online activities to satisfy your cultural whims. BY GIULIA MINERO

ven now that the COVID-19 lockdown has come to an end, institutions, public and private museums and art galleries are providing their visitors with the chance to explore their collections, the featured exhibitions and even enjoy special activities comfortably from home. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you'll be spoilt for choice.

Pinacoteca di Brera MILAN

Those who would like to visit a museum and don’t have the chance to do it can take advantage of a new concept of museum visits powered by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery). On the art gallery’s website, lovers of art can discover over 669 works of art thanks to the online collection. Each masterpiece features a caption, a description of the context in which it was created, the used technique and some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and religious images as if they were discovering them inside the museum. >> Check the online collection at pinacotecabrera.org

Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”

Reality stories. Sunday: Leonardo da Vinci. Other online activities are held on the official Facebook, Instagram and YouTube accounts.

The Museum is still working to share its most precious treasures with its visitors. #storieaportechiuse engages visitors of all ages in behind-the-scenes tours, explorations of the collections and archives, science news, educational lab activities... with videos, pictures and unpublished documents. Most of the contents are published in Italian in order to reach more effectively the local audiences. Yet you can still enjoy the beautiful pictures and fascinating visual material provided in the program. Here is the daily schedule, every week: Monday: Stories from the Museum’s deposits and behindthe-scenes work. Tuesday: Interactive workshops and informal education. Wednesday: Science and technology news. Thursday: Tales from the Museum’s history. Friday: Items from the Museum’s archives and libraries. Saturday: Virtual

Fondazione Prada

MILAN

>> Check the online activities at www.museoscienza.org

MILAN

Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to various online services enabling visitors to fully discover the foundation and its heritage straight from their homes. According to this new concept of multimedia experience, the foundation’s website, as well as the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo and YouTube accounts become the ideal stage to share ideas and explore new ways to experiment with culture. A new online section, for example, enables visitors to discover the three featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, “Storytelling” and “K” – and their artworks online. “Percorsi Possibili” is the w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17

WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice

Museo Egizio, Turin Other online activities are held on the official Facebook and YouTube accounts. >> Check the online activities at www.triennale.org

Museo Egizio TURIN

The Vatican Museums, Rome

Live streamings Virtually strolling through gardens, discovering historical dwellings and their precious objects is now possibile thanks to FAI – Fondo Ambiente Italiano. The Italian National Trust has indeed powered its brad-new #Italiamimanchi online project enabling visitors to enjoy some of its most widely-appreciated properties thanks to live streamings on the official FAI account on Facebook, Instagram and on the official YouTube channel. >> Read more at https://www.wheremilan.com/news/ italiamimanchi-online-tours-fai/

18 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

virtual space gathering texts and readings by artists and journalists who have powered an art dialogue with the recently departed art critic Germano Celant through over 40 projects created by Fondazione Prada from 1995. Conversely, on Instagram the online project “Love Stories – A Sentimental Survey by Francesco Vezzoli”, explores the emotional, love and psychological status of a vast online comminuty thanks to the new language of social media. >> Check the online collection at www.fondazioneprada.org

Triennale Milano MILAN

The official website of the Milanese hub for design enables visitors to enjoy interviews, podcasts and highlights on the world of art and culture, as well as videos and images from the historical archives of the Triennale.

The second largest Egyptian Museum in the world after the one in Cairo, the Museo Egizio in Turin can be enjoyed thanks to special guided tours. Led by the museum's director – Mr. Christian Greco – and available for free on the official Youtube account, the 8-minute tours help visitors discover insightful highlights on the featured findings. Other multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account (@museoegizio). >> Check the online activities at museoegizio.it

Galleria degli Uffizi FLORENCE

The MuseoCity association, together with Google Arts&Culture has introduced a new way of visiting the precious museum in Florence and its sections thanks to a selection of high-resolution images of the featured works, which include masterpieces by great Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section on the official website allows guests to enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue between art from the past and the various cultures of the world. >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it

Musei Vaticani The Vatican Museums ROME

The various halls of the Vatican Museums in Rome – which include 26 sections and museums-within-the-museum, among which the Stanze di Raffaello (Raffaello's Rooms) and the Sistine Chapel – can be admired thanks to 360-degree virtual tours. The tours are available online on the official website and also enable visitors to enjoy a close-up view of the thousands of works of art part of the Popes' collection gathered through the centuries. Videos and other multimedia contents can be discovered on the official YouTube channel. >> Check the online activities at www.museivaticani.va

Peggy Guggenheim Collection VENICE

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues its educational mission with weekly e-news and social media programs that include innovative content designed to share anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience the museum through Art Talks dedicated to masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials that bring Kids Days directly

to your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, Instagram @guggenheim_venice, Twitter @GuggenheimPGC >> Check the online collections at www.guggenheim-venice.it

Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte NAPLES

Thanks to the collaboration between MuseoCity and Google Arts&Culture, the cultural and artistic gems of the Capodimonte Museum near Naples can be admired online straight from home. The online Google Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent park. Over 203 paintings can be seen and analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera technology, while the special Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the masterpieces hosted in the museum and in the alleys of the Real Bosco. >> Check the online collections at www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it

AN ITALIAN HISTORY A rich online program powered by Galleria Campari tells of the the contents that are part of the brand’s Historical Archive, as well as the the museum and the space hosting it. Some of the most iconic advertising campaigns by artists such as Marcello Dudovich, Fortunato Depero and Bruno Munari and modern and vintage objects created in the over 160 years of Campari can be discovered thanks to online guided tours powered with the 3D technology. Book your tour by writing to galleria@campari.com

Galleria degli Uffizi, Florence w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 19

WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

W ine Experience Welcome to Italy! The Italy of taste, fashion, art and design, known as a gastronomic paradise for lovers of good food and wine. The latter, allied with the famous “Mediterranean diet” which since 2011 has been recognised by UNESCO as 20 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

part of the “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity”. In this country there are endless combinations of wine and food, since there are so many types of wine and just as many dishes in Italian cuisine. BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER

social “lubricant”, able to help break the ice, seal friendships and win hearts, giving a feeling of relaxation, improved mood and sensory pleasure. The nectar of Bacchus is truly magical; it involves all our five senses in tasting, to enable us to appraise it and appreciate it. Knowing how to recognise a good wine and to taste it correctly is certainly an emerging trend today, and it is also a much appreciated skill. Wine, in fact, has always been considered a mirror of society, and it is no coincidence that we have the saying: “Tell me what you drink and I’ll tell you who you are”. Having a good wine culture, knowing how to recognise quality, knowing its history and territorial associations, fascinates and captivates increasing numbers of people. Those visiting this country can take advantage of countless opportunities to get to know Italian culture thanks to wine, by visiting wine cellars, restaurants and wine bars, by participating in tastings, wine tours and wine events. Where® is by your side, ready to suggest plenty of initiatives, both online and offline.

Andrea Boccelli and his brother Alberto at Il Poggioncino estate, near Pisa (Tuscany).

ine is passion, associated with the territory, with tradition, but also with innovation. From the land where it grows, with its enchanting places, incredibly diverse, from the long plains, gentle valleys, elegant hills and difficult terrains, where “heroic viticulture” is practised in vineyards that are located over 500m above sea level and on over 30% slopes. In Italy there are over 350 official grape varietals and all 20 regions are also wine production zones. Travelling from north to south, in every part of the country we can

find a heritage of autochthonous grapes, of consolidated tradition or else rediscovered by the many producers who go in search of their origins to offer a product rich in personality. Alongside all these Italian riches, over the years numerous “international” varietals have also become established and rooted, as they have found their ideal habitat. If consumed in moderated quantities, wine is good for you. Certain elements, present particularly in red wine, such as polyphenols, tannins and resveratrol, provide significant benefits for our bodies. Among its other benefits, I would also like to cite its role as a

CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER Certified Wine Expert and Owner of Milano Wine Affair Board member of FISAR Milan Delegation Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption for many years now. With a passion for wine in her blood, she has found her vocation in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, approaching both companies and visitors to Milan, creating multisensory experiences in the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, teambuilding, entertainment and travel w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 21

WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR This month Where® presents a review of wines produced by VIPs: actors, singers, sportspeople, stylists, politicians and celebrities who have decided to invest in the wine sector, successfully venturing into the art of wine production in Italy.

Umbria

Massimo D’Alema (politician) Former Prime Minister, former secretary of the PDS-DS party. A 15-hectare estate, 6.5 planted as vineyards, between Narni and Otricoli, in the Province of Terni (Umbria). www.cantinalamadeleine.it NarnOT 2016 Rosso Umbria IGT Cabernet Franc 100% aged in oak barrels for 18 months, refined in the bottle for at least 12 months 14% ABV.

Tuscany

Roberto Cavalli (stylist) A well-known Italian stylist who, together with his son Tommaso, has a genuine passion for the world of wine and has launched a project called “Tenuta degli Dei” [Estate of the Gods], a 12-hectare property located at Panzano in Chianti (Tuscany) that also includes a horse breeding farm. www.deglidei.it Cavalli 2015 Rosso Toscana IGT Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot aged in oak barrels for 18 months, refined in the bottle for at least 12 months 14% ABV.

TrentinoAlto Adige

Francesco Moser (cyclist) Former cyclist and winner of the “Giro d’Italia”, to this day he is still the Italian cyclist with the highest number of successes. Together with his children Carlo, Francesca and Ignazio, he looks after a 25-hectare wine-growing estate. www.mosertrento.com 22 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

51.151 (celebrates the hour record set by Francesco Moser in Mexico City in 1984) Trento DOC (classic method sparkling white wine) Chardonnay 100%. 12.5% ABV.

Tuscany

Andrea Bocelli (singer) Defined by the New York Times as “the most popular opera singer of all time”, he has a family inheritance, the passion for wine. Together with his brother Alberto he is involved in the production of prestige wines thanks to the historic wine cellars of Il Poggioncino (Tuscany), stretching over 140 hectares of land, of which only 8 are used for wine cultivation. www.bocelli1831.com Terre di Sandro 2014 Toscana IGT Sangiovese 100% 18 months in oak barrels, 12 months in the bottle. 14% ABV.

FriuliVenezia Giulia

Joe Bastianich (entrepreneur, TV personality) He is a US entrepreneur, singer and television personality, of Italian origin, who became famous thanks to his participation as a judge in various editions of Masterchef Italia and Italia's Got Talent. In 2013 he decided to open a restaurant in Italy too, together with his mother Lidia, as well as various wine cellars. www.bastianich.com Plus 2015 Venezia Giulia IGT Friulano 100% 16 months in steel barrels, 8 of which on the lees – 10% of grapes from late harvest and drying. 14% ABV.

Do you like this subject? If you are in Milan, Cornelia G. Hassmüller offers a wine tasting experience entitled “I Vini dei VIP”, which involves the tasting of 8 wines by famous personalities, including sparkling, white and red wines. Booking https://milanowineaffair.com

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23

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PICK UP YOUR TOURIST CARD AT THE INFO POINT AND ENJOY A 10% DISCOUNT. 150 exclusive shops up to 70% off outlet price.

S13

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scalomilano.it

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion and design outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Just a few kilometres from Milan, the nec plus ultra for the fashion addicted are the city’s outlying fashion outlets. Don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations!

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

FoxTown

BERGAMO BRESCIA ?

Torino Outlet Village

VENEZIA

Mantova PIACENZA Serravalle Outlet Village Designer Outlet

FERRARA

Mondovicino Outlet Village

Designer Outlet

? ALESSANDRIA

GENOVA The Mall Sanremo

Fidenza Village

MAR LIGURE

MAR ADRIATICO

Castel Guelfo BOLOGNA ? The Style Outlets

PISA

VENTIMIGLIA

? TRIESTE ? Noventa di Piave

VERONA

Franciacorta Outlet Village

MILANO Scalo Milano Outlet & More

TORINO?

Palmanova Outlet Village

? Factory Stores

W NOE N P O

Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet

FIRENZE The Mall Firenze

LIVORNO

Valdichiana

? Outlet Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA

FIDENZA VILLAGE One of the 11 Villages of “The Bicester Village Shopping Collection” by Value Retail in Europe and China, the Village offers its guests a complete ‘360-degree’ experience and a new concept in shopping and hospitality, combining the finest expressions of fashion and luxury, entertainment and tourism. • WHERE: in the heart of the Food Valley and the Land of Verdi, just 60 minutes from Milan. Daily shuttle service from Milan city centre (pick up point from Piazza della Repubblica).

• WHAT: guests can find a selection of Italian

FOXTOWN FACTORY STORES and international brands at prices reduced A haven of luxury and elegance where by up to 70% off the recommended retail 160 stores offer the very best fashion PESCARA CORSICA price – seven days a week, all year round. labels discounted from 30% to More than 120 boutiques: Missoni, Jil Sander, 70% all year round. Le Silla, New Balance, P.A.R.O.S.H., Sergio • WHERE: in Switzerland (on the Swiss border), ROMA Rossi, The Bridge, Vivienne Westwood just 20 km from Lugano and 50 km from and many more. Milan. Take the Milano-Lugano motorway • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village’s selectionMAR andTIRRENO exit at Mendrisio. Daily shuttle service of restaurants offers local products based is available from Milan. on Italian DOC-classified ingredients of the • WHAT: 160 exclusive stores, more than NAPOLI highest quality, prepared as seasonal dishes 250 top brands (including Armani, Burberry, or tasty snacks for a relaxing break. Dolce&Gabbana, Coach, Gucci, Guess, www.fidenzavillage.com Jimmy Choo, Michael Kors, Montblanc, Nike, SARDEGNA

Fidenza Village 26 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

FoxTown Factory Stores

How to get there with the Shuttle bus

FIDENZA VILLAGE

Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada and Valentino and many more), 1 casino, 7 bars and restaurants, an exchange office, free wi-fi, a touristic info point and various Tax Free refund points. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: exclusive services make FoxTown the perfect place for those seeking a luxury shopping experience in a unique environment.

For any further information regarding the shuttle bus service from Milan, please send an email to iatcomunedifidenza@fidenzavillage.com or by phone + 39 0524 33551.

www.foxtown.com

A daily shuttle bus service runs from Largo Cairoli. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/11 – 0-3 years: free.

FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE Nestled between Lakes Garda and Iseo, less than an hour from Milan, Franciacorta is not only the home to the region’s famous Docg wines but also offers a unique shopping experience with top international brands and discounts of up to 70% year-round. • WHERE: take the A4 Milan-Venice motorway and exit at Ospitaletto or the A35 Bre-Be-Mi and exit at the A4 junction. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan. • WHAT: visit the Land of Fashion: over 190 stores of Italian and international brands for up to 30-70% less all year round: Adidas, Baldinini, Beretta, Billionaire, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Cavalli Class, Fratelli Rossetti, Loriblu, Nike, Pinko, Plein Sport, Pal Zileri, Richard Ginori, Twin-Set, Trussardi, Under Armour and many more. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: discover a land full of taste and visit the famous Franciacorta wineries with a daily shuttle service.

>> Departure from Largo Cairoli by Zani Viaggi - www.zaniviaggi.it

Arrival at FoxTown Mendrisio Return from FoxTown to Milan with a stopover at the Customs office to have TaxFree forms stamped Arrival in Milan

10am

1pm

11.15am

2.15pm

4pm

7.15pm

5.15pm

8.45pm

FRANCIACORTA OUTLET VILLAGE

>> Departure from Largo Cairoli by Zani Viaggi - www.zaniviaggi.it Largo Cairoli

Piazza della Repubblica 3, corner of Via Turati (+intermediate stops 15 min. later)

Departure from Scalo Milano

10.30am (10.45am)

12.30am

2pm (2.15pm)

3.15pm

5pm (5.15pm)

7pm

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET

A daily shuttle bus service runs from Duomo, Central Station, Corso Buenos Aires and Largo Cairoli. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/12 – 0-3 years: free. >> Departure from Central Station and Largo Cairoli by Zani Viaggi www.zaniviaggi.it

A daily shuttle bus service runs from Largo Cairoli. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/11 – 0-3 years: free.

www.franciacortaoutlet.it

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE Established in 2016, Scalo Milano Outlet & More is a metropolitan outlet village (31,000 sq.m.) located just 15 minutes from downtown Milan. • WHERE: located in Locate Triulzi (via Milano, 5), it can be accessed via a daily shuttle bus from downtown Milan (Piazza della Repubblica, 3 corner of via Turati) and straight to Scalo Milano in a few minutes. • WHAT: it hosts 150 fashion and design brands, including Cavalli Class, Twinset, Fratelli Rossetti, A. Testoni, Puma, a Ferrari store and 15 showrooms of leading interior décor and home furnishing brands (Alessi, Kartell, Calligaris...) and

A shuttle service runs from Piazza della Repubblica with 3 daily departures with intermediate stops (to and from Scalo Milano) in Piazza Medaglie d’Oro corner of Corso Lodi (M3 Porta Romana). Booking scalomilano.it >> Departure from Piazza della Repubblica by Frigerio Viaggi www.scalomilano.it

FOXTOWN FACTORY STORES

Largo Cairoli

SCALO MILANO OUTLET & MORE

11am

Arrival at Franciacorta Outlet Village

12.15am

Return from Franciacorta Outlet to Milan

6.30pm

VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS

Take advantage of the daily Shuttle Bus connecting the centre of Milan (and Turin on Sat and Sun) with Vicolungo The Style Outlets. Return ticket €20 adults €10 children 4/11 – 0-3 years: free. >> Departure from Largo Cairoli by Zani Viaggi - www.zaniviaggi.it Largo Cairoli

Departure from Vicolungo

10.30am

4.30pm

Central Station

Largo Cairoli

Departure from Serravalle

9am

9.30am

4.15pm

9.30am

10am

5pm

10.30am

11am

7.30pm

1pm

1.30pm

8.15pm

>> Departure from Central Station, Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires by Autostradale – www.autostradale.it Central Station and Piazza Duomo

Corso Buenos Aires

Departure from Serravalle

10am

10.05am

4.30pm

12am

12.05am

6.30pm

12.30

7.30pm

8.30pm

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FASHION AND DESIGN OUTLETS | DAILY TOURS © MAURIZIO CAMAGNA

Franciacorta Outlet Village

discounted products from 30% to 70% all year round. Incredible entertainment program through the year with concerts, events and exhibitions. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: other highlights include accessories, cosmetics and sporting goods, 14 restaurants and cafés. Non-EU residents can reclaim any VAT paid on items purchased here. Open daily: Design and Fashion: MonFri 11am-8pm and Sat-Sun 10am-8pm. Food: Mon-Fri 11am-10pm and Sat-Sun 10am-10pm. scalomilano.it

SERRAVALLE DESIGNER OUTLET The largest Designer Outlet in Europe, McArthurGlen Serravalle is located just 50 minutes away from Milan’s city center. Its beautiful setting combines all the appeal of luxury designer brands with the beauties of the surrounding Piedmont countryside and the Ligurian Riviera. McArthurGlen also boasts “Barberino” near Florence, “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples

Serravalle Designer Outlet 28 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

Scalo Milano Outlet & More

and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. • WHERE: take the A7 Milano-Genova motorway and exit Serravalle Scrivia. From the railway stations of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Scrivia and Novi Ligure, you can catch a shuttle bus running every day from 9am to 8.20pm. A convenient shuttle bus service runs 7 times a day from 4 locations in Milan: Central Station and Foro Bonaparte, from Piazza Duomo and Corso Buenos Aires. Buy your ticket on line at McArthurglen/Serravalle. • WHAT: a unique shopping experience with 300 of your favourite designer brands – Gucci, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti, Casadei and many more… – for up to 30-70% less all year round. Serravalle combines an easy-to-reach location with a relaxing atmosphere and multiple services, including free Wifi, multilingual staff, a children’s playground, café and restaurants McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle

VICOLUNGO THE STYLE OUTLETS Situated just 30 minutes from Milan and the Malpensa Airport, in the province of Novara, this is one of the closest outlet to Milan and the ideal place to spend an exciting day shopping. • WHERE: take the A4 Milano-Torino motorway and exit at Biandrate Vicolungo. Daily shuttle service is available from Milan. • WHAT: 150 prestigious designer stores – including Armani, Missoni, Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Calvin Klein and Twin Set – offering clothing for the whole family, homeware and beauty products at discounted prices up to 70%. The shopping experience will appeal also to outdoor sports enthusiasts who will find a selection of several of the world’s most coveted sports brands. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: Vicolungo The Style Outlets also hosts art exhibitions, events and other initiatives for a enjoyable day’s outing. www.vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

Vicolungo The Style Outlets

Il Bisonte, timeless appeal Il Bisonte opens its doors to lovers of the highest-quality leather goods, revealing its summer 2020 collection. BY GIULIA MINERO

hapes, colors and materials evoking a relaxed and joyful lifestyle are the protagonists of the summer 2020 collection inspired by the beauty of simplicity. Il Bisonte’s favored material, vegetabletanned cowhide, is tinged with a new color palette featuring intense spring hues: deep Rosemary green, delicate pale mint pastel, fun gazpacho red, and vibrantly bold "blueberry". The materials used are all obviously strictly made in Italy, as always, but there is a novelty: a special jacquard fabric depicts a series of 30 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

stylized bison that seem to sway in the air; a soft suede, worked with a water repellant treatment, is used for the softer and more deconstructed shapes. Classic Il Bisonte mini bags, sophisticated but casual, have been reworked with details and finishes that make them modern and stylish, simple yet sophisticated. Shoulder bags in linear shapes boast quality metal accessories, weaves, fringes and attention to every detail. For men, minimal design and sporty-luxe appeal are offered up with a twist of urban, modern flavor for all day, every day, short trips or long. For the first time Il Bisonte presents an entire shoe collection called "Easy-Breezy" for both men and women. It’s inspired by breeziness and a leisurely, colorful, contemporary lifestyle. The line includes two styles of sneakers, two slip-ons and a braided leather sandal in true indie style.

>> Il Bisonte www.ilbisonte.com Via Santo Spirito, 14. T: 02 76003014. Map F4

Shopping

.C E T R R A V E L E

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

The

Guidelines ACCESSORIES

INDEX TO ABBREVIATIONS

T: Telephone number M1, M2…: Underground lines MAP LOCATIONS

Note that references in bold at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to the coordinates on the street maps on pages 58-59. SHOPPING This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 29 Sevelar unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections.

Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Milan) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge. ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Several places like the Duomo, The Last Supper or the Teatro alla Scala are symbols of Milan, hence our decision to list them under a separate category. All details are correct at the time of going to oress but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

Angela Caputi Giuggiù

The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. A dream well worth the wearing. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/2.30pm7.30pm. www.angelacaputi.com. Via Madonnina, 11.T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Borsalino Historic Italian company synonymous with “hats” the world over. Each piece is an unrepeatable masterpiece, created with an artisan touch, the result of in-depth research that harmonizes fabrics, materials and colours. Open Mon-Tues 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Wed-Sun 10am-7pm. www.borsalino.it. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 92. T: 02 89015436. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Saragiunti In Corso Matteotti, just a short distance from Piazza San Babila, Sara Giunti’s standalone store offers a range of handbags distinguished by clean-cut geometric shapes, Made in Italy craftsmanship and painstaking attention to the quality of materials. All Saragiunti bags feature LED lights that illuminate the interior. An ideal combination of aesthetics and practicality. www.saragiunti.it. Corso G. Matteotti, 1. T: 02 39198016. M1 San Babila. Map G4

CLOTHING MEN & WOMEN Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “nofrills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.aspesi.it. Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Eddy Monetti Eddy Monetti’s story began in Naples in 1887 and more than 130 years later it is still a family-run business. In Milan, the brand recently relocated to via San Pietro all’Orto, in the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda. Spread over three floors, the new boutique has retained the intimate, welcoming atmosphere that distinguishes all the brand’s standalone stores. Highlights include a bar, a corner featuring a grand piano, books by Taschen, and a charming terrace on the first floor, where you can enjoy a cup of coffee accompanied by typical Neapolitan pastry. It’s the ideal setting to host the brand’s wide assortment of chic, high-end men and women’s apparel. All items are handmade and flanked by a chic, seasonal collection of leisurewear. Open Mon-Sat 10am8pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. eddymonetti.com. Via San Pietro all'Orto, 22. T: 02 76000940. M1 San Babila. Map G4

The emotion of a jewel

Salvadori established its first store in the magical city of Venice in 1857. At that time, it only carried watches, period bedside and travel alarm clocks, grandfather clocks and wall clocks. However, it was only thanks to Gabriele Pendini, the company’s longtime president who had a passion for gemstones, that Salvadori became a tangible expression of high-class, sought-after jewelry. Today, Salvadori Diamond Atelier interprets every desire with style and experience, offering women emotions that go straight to the heart. Don’t miss the new Sospiri collection, inspired by the Bridge of Sighs in Venice, a symbol of love and romance. The collection was designed and created by designer Marzia Pendini, who was inspired by the history of the bridge and fascinated by the structure of the small windows with its unique geometries. All the jewellery pieces - rings, earrings and pendants - are made of white or pink gold and are each set with 5 diamonds that mark the junction points of the intertwining design. NEW ONLINE SALES

Salvadori Diamond Atelier - Venice Piazza San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609 www.salvadoridiamondatelier.com

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SHOPPING Duomo district

Gobbi 1842 ● Gobbi 1842 ●

Gobbi 1842 Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a reference point for luxury watch and refined jewelry lovers. Timepieces such as Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor are placed side by side with the two Serena Gobbi Milano jewelry collections, “Fairytale” and "Rainbow", the new stylish and contemporary capsules inspired by Gobbi family DNA. The upperfloor laboratory provides quick, top quality maintenance service. www.gobbi1842.com Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: +39 02 76020536

O F F I C I A L R E TA I L E R

Fedeli The company’s passion for top quality, elegant design and its devotion to individual customer preferences since its early production days during the 1930’s, has consolidated the brand as symbol of pure, high-class fashion. Scarves, cashmere pullovers, knitwear, shirts, swimwear and polos and outerwear all crafted using only the finest, “Made-in-Italy” yarns processed according to time-honoured artisan techniques. Via San Pietro all’Orto, 26. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. T: 02 76023392. M1 San Babila. Map F4

Manzoni 24 A stylish location in the heart of the city where customers can discover all the elegance of its uber-luxe fur collections. Sophisticated creations for those who appreciate modern style and traditional Italian craftsmanship. Its specialized staff is on-hand to suggest the look best suited to each and every customer’s individual requirements. Open 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.manzoni24.it. Via Manzoni, 24. T: 02 76001395. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Uniqlo The Japanese giant of fast fashion has made its debut in Italy with a 1,500 sq.m threelevel megastore, hosting its men’s, women’s and children’s collections. The Italian Uniqlo also focuses on the philosophy of Lifewear: a minimalist but elegant design, sophisticated production techniques and affordable prices, In addition to classic apparel, as an exclusive 32 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

for Milan, the Piazza Cordusio store offers an assortment of cashmere sweaters in 50 different colours and one of the largest collection of printed T-shirts of all the Uniqlo stores in Europe, including several styles created in collaboration with museums and local designers. www.uniqlo. com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Via Cordusio, 2. M1 Cordusio. Map E4

DEPARTMENT STORES & SHOPPING CENTERS 12 The Brian&Barry Building San Babila A 12-floor “vertical dream”, starting from the basement and spiralling upwards to the 9th floor, hosting the ASOLA | Cucina Sartoriale restaurant helmed by chef Matteo Torretta, and the 10th floor featuring a terrace/lounge space. The megastore will host a series of different highend products and services including clothing, food, cosmetics, design objects, jewellery and watches. Open daily 10am-10pm. www. thebrianebarrybuilding.it. Via Durini, 28. T: 02 76005582. M1 San Babila. Map G4

CityLife Shopping District The new CityLife Shopping district, the largest urban shopping centre in Italy, is located in a redeveloped urban area that once housed Milan’s historic fairgrounds. Developed in collaboration with archistars like Zaha Hadid, Arata isozaki and Daniel Libeskind, CityLife is one

of the largest urban redevelopment projects ever conceived in Europe. In addition to integrating residences, offices, public parks, outdoor spaces and service facilities, the district hosts 100 shops and eateries: fashion, accessories, cosmetics, wellness, home décor and high-tech are the star players of its exclusive commercial offer. Open daily 9am-9pm. www.citylifeshoppingdistrict.it. Piazza Tre Torri. M5 Tre Torri. Map C2

Il Centro One of the largest shopping mall in Europe (two rich floors in commercial proposals), Il Centro boasts over 200 shops and boutiques - devoted to fashion, accessories, gifts, homeware, high-tech, leisure, beauty and wellness – 25 restaurants and bars, a diagnostic centre, a sports centre and few play areas for kids, free wi-fi, tax free, dog sitting and grooming. It has launched for the first time in Italy several flagship stores of international brands as Primark, Lego, Bath&Body Works, H&M Home, Mi Store). Designed by the internationally renowned architect Michele de Lucchi, it has been inspired by the ancient Lombard courts. Located just 30 minutes from the centre of Milan, it is easily accessible from the Stazione Centrale via a convenient shuttle service (pick up point Central Station-Piazza Duca d’Aosta – ticket 5€ return or www.zaniviaggi.it) or by car sharing DriveNow Carsharing (download the app). Open daily 9am-10pm. www.centroilcentro.it. Via Luraghi, 11 – Arese (MI). Off Map

Illustration Illustrationcopyright copyright©©2020. 2019.All Allrights rightsreserved. reserved.Whilst Whilstevery everycare carehas hasbeen beentaken takentotocheck checkthe theaccuracy accuracyofofthe theinformation informationininthis thismap, map,the thepublishers publisherscannot cannotaccept acceptresponsibility responsibilityfor forerrors errorsororomissions omissionsororthe theconsequences consequences thereof. thereof.No Nopart partofofthis thismap mapmay maybe bereproduced reproducedwithout withoutthe thepermission permissionofofthe thepublishers. publishers.This Thismap mapisisoriginally originallydesigned designedand andproduced producedby byMario MarioCamerini Camerini

Luxury shopping

SHOPPING Rinascente

MUST-SEE A fabulous department store overlooking the Duomo, a real part of Milan’s history. 10 storeys with a refined and contemporary ambience where shoppers can find an exclusive selection of fashion for men, women and kids, accessories, beauty, lingerie, home interiors, food and design. Rinascente Food & Restaurants on the 7th floor features a Food Market brimming with rare delicacies, all origin controlled. It also offers visitors a choice of as many as nine bars and restaurants designed to cover the entire spectrum of taste (open 7 days a week until midnight; dedicated entrances also on via Santa Radegonda, 1 and via San Raffaele, 2. T: 02 8852471). Open seven days a week: from Mon-Thurs 9am-9pm; Fri-Sat 9.30am-10pm; Sun

10am-9pm. www.rinascente.it.Piazza Duomo, 10. T: 02 88521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Scalo Milano Outlet & More Located approximately 15 minutes from downtown Milan, this is a hub of fashion, food, design and much more. Boasting approximately 130 stores on one level (with the exception of the Food Court which has been designed as an arena below the street level) this outlet village promises a unique shopping experience. It can be quickly reached by car or via the S13 Railway link (‘Locate Triulzi’ station). Free shuttle bus from Milan Central Railway Station and piazza Cairoli. Check the website for opening hours. www.scalomilano. it. Via Milano, 5 (Locate Triulzi). T: 02 90470350. Off map

The VIBRAM FiveFingers “V-Soul” model is ideal for indoor training, functional fitness, yoga and pilates. Available now in the new lavender colour.

DESIGNER STORES 10 Corso Como A unique and ever-expanding mix of selling spaces grouped around a beautiful courtyard in Corso Como’s pedestrian area. Worth particular note are the Galleria Carla Sozzani, a book store stocking design books, boutiques, must-have luxury goods, a café and a restaurant. Open Mon-Tues-Fri-Sat-Sun 10.30am-7.30pm; WedThurs 10.30am-9pm. www.10corsocomo.com. Corso Como, 10. T: 02 653531. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Alessi An “art factory” which offers utensils and accessories signed by some of the most renowned names in international design. Open Mon-Sun 10am-70pm. www.alessi.com. Via A. Manzoni, 14/16. T: 02 795726. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Armani/Casa

Full-on summer shopping at Vicolungo The Style Outlets We like safe shopping! Vicolungo The Style Outlets has reopened and put safety measures in place for visitors and is now ready to welcome you in a safe, calm and protected environment. Boasting 150 boutiques and more than 300 Italian and international brands (including Armani, Cavalli Class, Trussardi, Patrizia Pepe, Borbonese, Twin-set, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Guess), the centre offers the ideal mixture of style, quality and value-formoney, with year-round discounts of from 30 to 70% off the retail price. A selection of several of the best-known sports brands is available, including Colmar, The North Face, Napapijri, Salomon, Timberland, Kappa, Dolomite and Under Armour. Located just 30 minutes from Milan and the Malpensa airport, the centre is easily accessible by car (A4 Milano-Torino motorway, Biandrate-Vicolungo exit). The centre offers numerous services, including tax-free shopping, fast refund and free Wi-Fi. For a relaxing end to your day’s shopping, visit one of the many bars and restaurants where you can sample the finest dishes of traditional Italian cuisine. Never as much as now has the pleasure of shopping begun when still at home, so for this reason it will be possible to plan your visit not only via the website but also using social media and The Style Outlets app, so you can gain the maximum enjoyment from a moment of relaxation and a carefree shopping experience. By presenting this page at the Info Point, you can collect your shopping card which entitles you to an additional discount of 10% on the outlet price of participating stores. For more information and updates, visit http://vicolungo.thestyleoutlets.it

34 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

In the many years since its lauch, Armani/Casa has established a pure, modern tradition where pragmatism becomes poetry. A precise aesthetic sense pervades every collection by Giorgio Armani. Open Mon-Sat 10am-19pm. www.armanicasa.com. Corso Venezia, 14. T: 02 76260230. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Galleria Rossana Orlandi Opened in 2002 in a former tie Factory in the Magenta neighbor, it has been forecasting along the years new and upcoming designers and establishing the premise as one of the most revered platform for avant-garde Design and Lifestyle. The space is articulated in a not traditional way mixing together, showroom, a retail store, offices and a courtyard for events and meeting. Galleria Rossana Orlandi has also revolutionized the way to present design art pieces, showing them always in real ambiances. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.rossanaorlandi. com. Via M. Bandello, 14/16. T: 02 4674471. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Poltrona Frau A symbol of Italian artisan elegance. In addition to its cult leather armchairs, it also stocks a rich collection of sofas, beds, tables, desks and accessories. Open Mon 2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.poltronafrau.com. Via Durini, 1. T: 02 6570626. M1 San Babila. Map G5 • Via A. Manzoni, 30. T: 02 97070170. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Villeroy & Boch The company boasts years of experience in the field of product design and interior design. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.villeroy-boch.com. Via Montebello, 35. T: 02 65584928. M3 Turati. Map F3

SHOPPING Luxury shopping

Rocca 1794

Milano Malpensa Airport (45km)

● Pisa Orologeria Rolex Boutique

Luigi Verga Orologi ●

● Gobbi 1842 ● Rocca 1794

● Orologeria Luigi Verga

● Ronchi

Official Retailers in Milan ◗ Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique Via Montenapoleone, 24 T: 02 76317726

◗ Orologeria Luigi Verga Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo) T: 02 8056521

◗ Gobbi 1842 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15 T: 02 76020536

◗ Luigi Verga Orologi Corso Vercelli, 19 T: 02 48198656

36 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

◗ Rocca 1794 Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447 Milano Malpensa Airport-Terminal 1 T: 02 74867578 ◗ Ronchi Via Gonzaga, 5 T: 02 877449

Illustration copyright © 2020. All rights reserved. Whilst every care has been taken to check the accuracy of the information in this map, the publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions or the consequences thereof. No part of this map may be reproduced without the permission of the publishers. This map is originally designed and produced by Mario Camerini

This map is kindly sponsored by the Rolex Official Retailers in Milan

[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com Via Montanapoleone, 18. T: 02 76003095. M3 Montenapoleone, Map G4

EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76318356. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

ASPESI—www.aspesi.com Via San Pietro all'Orto, 24. T: 02 76022478. M1 San Babila. Map G4

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA— www.zegna.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/E. T: 02 76006437. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com. Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 760841. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta. com. Via Montenapoleone, 27/a. T: 02 76024495 • Maison Bottega Veneta, Via Sant’Andrea, 15. T: 02 77878115. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com Via Montenapoleone, 27/c. T: 02 76015982. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G3 CHANEL—www.chanel.com Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A. T: 02 77886999. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 CHURCH’S— www.church-footwear.com Via Sant’Andrea, 11. T: 02 76318794. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 84. T: 02 72094454. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 DIOR—www.dior.com Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76317801. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Via Montenapoleone, 4. T: 02 77123711. Map F4 • Corso Venezia, 15 (Man). T: 02 76028485. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • via della Spiga, 2 (Accessories). T: 02 795747. M1 San Babila. Map G4

ETRO—www.etro.com Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 76005049. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 FRATELLI ROSSETTI— www.fratellirossetti.com Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

The new version of the iconic “Brera” by FRATELLI ROSSETTI takes on the sophisticated Vienna Straw effect.

MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com Corso Vittorio Emanuele II corner of Galleria San Carlo, 12. T: 02 76341378. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 8. T: 02 76341381. M3 Montenapoleone, M1 San Babila. Map G4 MISSONI—www.missoni.it Via Sant’Andrea corner of via Bagutta. T: 02 76003555. M1 San Babila. Map G4

GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Via Montenapoleone, 2 (and in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 76003234. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • One stop shop for Armani Lifestyle, from food to home accessories. Via A. Manzoni, 31. T: 02 72318600. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Via Sant’Andrea, 21. T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via Sant’Andrea, 21 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 76001799. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • c/o la Rinascente, Piazza Duomo. T: 02 55028800. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

GUCCI—www.gucci.com Via Montenapoleone, 5/7. T: 02 771271. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 8597991. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

PRADA—www. prada.com Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63/65 (Woman). T: 02 876979. • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 (Man). T: 02 87211450. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Via Montenapoleone, 8 (Woman). T: 02 7771771. Via Montenapoleone, 6 (Man). T: 02 76020273. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Via della Spiga, 18 (Woman Accessories). T: 02 780465. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Via Montenapoleone, 12. T: 02 76003495. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 HOGAN—www.hogan.com Via Montenapoleone, 23. T: 02 76011174. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 ISSEY MIYAKE—www.isseymiyake.com Via Bagutta, 12. T: 02 781040. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4 JIMMY CHOO—www.jimmychoo.com Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A. T: 02 45481770. M1 San Babila. Map G4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 7772901. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com Via Montenapoleone, 2. T: 02 7771711. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 72147011. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Practical and sophisticated, the small tote bag by GIORGIO ARMANI in palmellato leather is one of the accessories from the “la Prima” series. Available in light blue, nude, black and red.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com (Woman) Via Montenapoleone, 3. T: 02 76000054. M1 San Babila. Map G4 • (Man) Via Montenapoleone, 20/4. T: 02 76006660. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TOD’S—www.tods.com Via della Spiga, 22. T: 02 76002423. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II (Sun 10.30am7pm). T: 02 877997. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com Via Gesù, 3. T: 02 798588. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 TRUSSARDI—www.trussardi.it Concept Store: Piazza della Scala, 5. T: 02 80688242. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com Via Montenapoleone, 20. T: 02 76006182. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 VERSACE—www.versace.com Via Montenapoleone, 11. T: 02 76008528. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4 • Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 89011479. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 37

SHOPPING

PH © BEPPE RASO

THE WORLD OF ARMANI

Giorgio Armani boutique

In Milan, Armani is not simply a fashion brand but rather an integral part of city life, deeply rooted in the city’s history. Starting from the Giorgio Armani boutique in via Sant’Andrea, in the same location where in 1983 “King Giorgio” opened his first boutique: 1200 sq.m. where the past “is woven with the future” (www.armani.com. Via Sant’Andrea, 9. T: 02 76003234. M1 San Babila. Map G4) and in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II for the accessories (T: 02 49483060. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4). Don’t forget the Emporio Armani Uomo at Rinascente (2nd Floor), where you can find clothing and accessories for him (corner at Rinascente, Corso Vittorio

Armani/Casa

38 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

Emanuele II. T: 02 8852489. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4). At the Armani/Manzoni31 you can also find the following Armani lines: Armani/Dolci by Guido Gobino, Armani/ Fiori, Emporio Armani man and woman, junior collection of Emporio Armani, EA7, Armani/Libri, Armani beauty (via Manzoni 31, T: 02 72318600. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4). The Armani/Casa flagship store in Corso Venezia 14, with 16 display windows showcasing the brand's collection, is a reference point for interior decor, from furniture to lighting; from accessories to textiles (www.armanicasa.com).

Armani/Dolci

In Milan, a number of the coolest locations also carry the Armani signature. These include the new Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante open from morning until late evening (via Croce Rossa 2, T: 02 72318680. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4); on the ground floor, you can find the new large café, where one can sample and purchase fresh pastries made in-house or Armani/ Dolci by Guido Gobino products. On the first floor, there is the restaurant, open for lunch and dinner, with a luxurious champagne bar reception area at the entrance. Nobu Milano, the sushi restaurant (www.noburestaurants.com/milan. Via Pisoni 1, T: 02 62312645. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4) and Armani Privé (via Manzoni 31, T: 02 62312655. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4), where the VIPs and captains of industry who enliven Milan’s “dolce vita” can be spotted enjoying a drink or dancing until the late hours of the night. Don’t miss the new delivery service at Emporio Armani Ristorante and at Nobu Milano. The interior architecture of the new boutique has been inspired by style elements of the 1930s, the period to which the building dates back, but these influences have been used in order to develop a completely contemporary design.

The Armani/Silos exhibition space, opened in 2015, gathers over 40 years of the Armani universe, showcasing the designer's unique aesthetic. Four floors of innovative space host the permanent collection alongside temporary exhibitions, (www.armanisilos. com. Via Bergognone, 40. Map D6). Armani dominates the centre of Milan with a large billboard at the junction between

Nobu Milano

PH © DAVIDE LOVATTI

Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante

via Cusani and via Broletto (Map F4), for years one of the symbols of the city. And, since 2011, Armani is also a hotel: 95 rooms, a haute cuisine restaurant, a luxurious SPA and magnificent panoramic views over the city (Armani Hotel Milano, via Manzoni 31. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4. www.armanihotelmilano.com).

PH © DAVIDE LOVATTI

Armani/Silos

PH © DAVIDE LOVATTI

LIFESTYLE SHOPPING

The bond between Giorgio Armani and Milan is a relationship made up of powerful feelings, which has generated important initiatives that have enriched the city time after time.

Armani/Spa

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SHOPPING

For football lovers For all football enthusiasts, but not only, we suggest several “must-visit” locations to satisfy your passion for sport. A.C. MILAN The official sales point of the Milan Store is located at the club’s headquarters of Casa Milan (Portello district). Directly accessible from either the museum or the square, it carries all the best A.C. Milan merchandise including the team’s official jerseys and technical gear. It also features a bookshop, selling books dedicated to the Club, its history and its stars. Don't miss the Mondo Milan Museum, an exhibition experience that presents A.C. Milan trophies in a unique way, and narrates the club's 121 years of history through an innovative combination of rare historic memorabilia with the most advanced interactive technologies. A restaurant, Casa Milan Bistrot dello Sport, boasting 100 seats and catering to all tastes and ages, offers a complete food service including breakfast, lunch, aperitivi and dinner. Open daily 8am-8pm. Milan Store. Piazza Aldo Rossi, 8. Portello district. M1 Lotto, M5 Portello. T: 02 62285613. Off Map casamilanstore.acmilan.com

F.C. INTER In Milan’s Galleria Passarella 2, just steps from the city’s highly central San Babila, the Inter Store Milano is a real haven for football aficionados where fans can find a vast selection of official F.C. Inter items including jerseys, sportswear and shoes signed by Nike. In addition to selling gadgets and official merchandise, the venue also offers a Ticketing Area. Besides this store, Milan boasts another official Inter shop in San Siro which also sells A.C. Milan merchandise. Open daily 10am-8pm. Galleria Passarella, 2. M1 San Babila. T: 02 76016297.Map G4. store.inter.it JUVENTUS The Juventus Store is an ideal venue for “Bianconeri” enthusiasts: two floors featuring the entire range of Nike clothing, accessories, gadgets, gift ideas, plus an exclusive area where Juve fans can have their team shirts customized. Open Mon-Sun 10am-8pm. Juventus Flagship Store. Corso Matteotti, 8. M1 San Babila. Map G4. store.juventus.com

SAN SIRO STADIUM Named after the famous Milanese footballer Giuseppe Meazza (one of the greatest Italian soccer players who has worn the colors of both Inter and Milan and twice World Champion with the National team), the San Siro Stadium with its 75,0923 seats is today the largest stadium in Italy and the third in Europe. On the occasion of the 1990 World Cup, the City of Milan has decided to begin a profound renewal of the stadium and an architecturally striking solution consisting of a third level was implemented. The four corner towers stand out beyond the bleachers reaching the roof level. San Siro is the home stadium of two of the three most successful Italian Football League clubs: A.C. Milan and F.C. Internazionale (Inter). The stadium also has a Store (T: 02 4046430) and a Museum (T: 02 4042432) displaying all kinds of historic items from both Milan and Inter’s past. San Siro Stadium. Piazzale A. Moratti. M5 San Siro. Off Map. www.sansiro.net

PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The Milan Store is an innovative store offering “Rossoneri” supporters everything they could wish for: match and training kits, football equipment, leisure wear and accessories, home equipment, gadgets and other gifts. Open daily 10am-8pm. Milan Store. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II (Galleria San Carlo), Duomo district. M1 San Babila. T: 02 49580176. Map G4. store.acmilan.com

San Siro Stadium

40 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

SHOPPING FASHION OUTLETS

JEWELLERY & WATCHES

Il Salvagente

Audemars Piguet

Established in 1978, Il Salvagente is among Milan’s best-known and longest established outlets: a comprehensive offering of high-end fashion in the city of fashion. Clothing, accessories and shoes, for him and for her, at up to 70% off. This landmark Milanese outlet is located just a few minutes from the airport of Linate and the Central station and is easily accessible from the centre of the city. Enjoy all the perks of city shopping but with far more palatable price tags! Via Fratelli Bronzetti, 16. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-2pm/3pm-7pm. T: 02 76110328. www.salvagente.com. Map H4

The boutique welcomes customers into a warm, elegant atmosphere where they can savour the spirit of the Maison of Le Brassus, the oldest makers of Haute Horlogerie still owned by the founding family. Though this is one of the brand’s smallest venues it nevertheless showcases the four collections of Audemars Piguet: Royal Oak, Royal Oak Offshore, Millenary and Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet. Here visitors can also admire the special editions created for Audemars Piguet boutiques throughout the world together with several complicated pieces. Upon request, the boutique offers a worldwide delivery service. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. www.audemarspiguet.com.Via Montenapoleone, 6. T: 02 76003115. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with the innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of the Damiani jewelry reproposed in a flagship store designed by Antonio Citterio. A well-lighted space displays all the Maison’s jewelry collections, which are admired throughout the world for their jewelry to be realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.damiani.it. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 76028088. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Gobbi 1842 Founded in 1842, Gobbi is a reference point for luxury watch and refined jewelry lovers. Timepieces such as Patek Philippe, Rolex and Tudor are placed side by side with the two Serena Gobbi Milano jewelry collections, “Fairytale” and "Rainbow", the new stylish and contemporary capsules inspired by the perfect mechanism of time flowing and Gobbi family DNA. The upperfloor laboratory provides quick, top quality watch repair and maintenance service. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.gobbi1842.com. Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 15. T: 02 76020536. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Luigi Verga Orologi A large selection of some of the most desirable watch brands available on the market, including Rolex, Tudor, Baume&Mercier, Montblanc, Panerai, Tag Heuer, Dietrich, TCM, Pomellato and Pomellato 67. Luigi Verga Orologi also prides itself on its after-sales service and boasts an on-premises UNI EN ISO 9001: EDITION 2008 certified repair workshop. www.vergaorologi.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-6pm. Corso Vercelli, 19. T: 02 48198656. M1 ConciliazioneM1 Pagano. Map C4

Orologeria Luigi Verga A point of reference for high-end watchmaking collectors and lovers managed by the Verga Family since 1947. The store carries the most prestigious Swiss brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Tudor, Girard Perregaux and Pomellato to name a few. Its certified upper-floor workshop provides high-qualified watch repair and maintenance services. www.luigiverga.it. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/2pm-6pm (in June). Tues-Fri 10am-

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

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1pm/2pm-6pm and Sat 10am-3pm (in July). Via G. Mazzini (Piazza Duomo). T: 02 8056521. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5 • Via V. Capelli, 6 (Piazza Gae Aulenti). The store carries the most prestigious brands such as Patek Philippe, Cartier, Tudor and Montblanc. T: 02 6595775. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Pasquale Bruni The historic Italian company of fine jewelry has its flagship store in via Montenapoleone. The space was designed by Eugenia Bruni, Pasquale’s daughter and the company’s Creative Director, with the aim of celebrating elegance and femininity. The brand’s lines pay homage to flowers. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. pasqualebruni.com Via Montenapoleone, 5. T: 02 784118. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Patek Philippe Boutique by Pisa Orologeria The boutique represents further proof of the perfect harmony between the Pisa Family and the Patek Philippe brand, as well as their common determination to offer clients an environment of excellence for the Geneva masterpieces. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Mon

10.30am-7pm. www.patek.com. Via Verri, 9. T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria Flagship Store A watch lover’s paradise for over 70 years. A ground-breaking expansion project involving the addition of 1,000 square metres dedicated to forty brands that have made the history of Haute Horlogerie, from the A of Audemars Piguet to the Z of Zenith. Prestigious timepieces with particular attention to the latest innovations. Assistance centre and specialized workshop. Unique gift packaging with delivery guaranteed to any part of the world. Open Mon-Sat 11am1.30pm/2.30pm-6pm. www.pisaorologeria. com. Via P. Verri, 7. T: 02 762081. M1 San Babila, M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Pisa Orologeria - Rolex Boutique The Pisa family has always been a forerunner in the world watch sector and now hosts the Rolex Boutique. The collaboration between the Pisa family and the Rolex brand goes back over 70 years. Open Mon-Sat 11am1.30pm/2.30pm-6pm. www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Montenapoleone, 24. T: 02 76317726. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

With the “Mimosa” collection, DAMIANI offers an exquisite reinterpretation of one of the flowers that best symbolizes femininity. 42 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

Rocca 1794 Master jewellers and watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca rates among the first importers of luxury Swiss watches. A selection among the most

prestigious brands: Damiani, Rolex, Cartier, Omega, Vacheron Constantin, Panerai, JaegerLeCoultre, Breguet, Breitling, Tudor, Ulysse Nardin, Roger Dubuis, Piaget, Venini. Rocca guarantees outstanding levels of competence and expert skillfull consultancy. www.rocca1794. com. • Open daily 10.30am-6.30pm. Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Under renovation Milano Malpensa Airport - Terminal 1 (Piazza del Lusso). T: 02 74867578. Off Map

Ronchi Opened in 1929, it has become a prestigious reference point for watch lovers the world over, always combining a passion for high-end watchmaking with a love for refined jewellery and ongoing research on fashion-forward and classic trends. Among the most prestigious brands: Rolex, Tudor, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Franck Muller. Open Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3pm6pm. www.ronchigioielli.com. Via Gonzaga, 5. T: 02 877449. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Tiffany & Co. This world-renowned jeweller has ten boutiques in Italy: Milan, Rome, Venice, Verona, Florence and Bologna. Located in the heart of Milan, it carries an exclusive selection of classically simple jewellery and gift items in perfect keeping with the tradition of its famous New York counterpart founded in 1837. www.tiffany.it. Open Mon-Sun 9.30am-8.30pm. Piazza Duomo Flagship Store. T: 02 89094202. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am-7.30pm. Via della Spiga, 19/A.

SHOPPING T: 02 76022321.M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open Mon-Sun 10am 8.30pm. Shop in Shop c/o Excelsior Milano. Galleria del Corso, 4. T: 02 76280561. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Vacheron Constantin Boutique The two-level boutique is a universe that combines elegance, modernity and refinement in a perfect equilibrium which shed a new light on the DNA of the Maison. A vital and living space that originates with the intention to open the world of high-end watchmaking of Vacheron Constantin to a cosmopolitan public of connoisseurs. The boutique carries the manufacturer’s entire range of watches, displayed on the ground floor, with a private room giving the right privacy to discover the most fascinating complications of the brand. On the upper floor lies an elegant space inspired by the art de vivre

Sizing Women clothes IT EUR US UK 36 32 1 4 38 34 2 6 40 36 4 8 42 38 6 10 44 40 8 12 46 42 10 14 48 44 12 16 Women shoes IT EUR US UK 36 36 6 3 37 37 6.5 4 38 38 7.5 5 39 39 8.5 6 40 40 9 7 41 41 9.5 8 Men clothes IT EUR US UK 50 46 36 36 52 48 38 38 54 50 40 40 56 52 42 42 58 54 44 44 60 56 46 46 Men shoes IT EUR US UK 40 40 7.5 6 41 41 8 7 42 42 8.5 8 43 43 9 9 44 44 10.5 10 45 45 11.5 11 46 46 12 12

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Vacheron Constantin and a refined American Bar. Open Mon 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sun 11am1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.vacheron-constantin. com – www.pisaorologeria.com. Via Verri, 9. T: 02 762081. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Van Cleef & Arpels Since its foundation in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels has always remained faithful to the values of creation, expertise and transmission. Inspired by the Maison’s unique identity and heritage, each jewelry and watch collection tells a story with universal meaning to express a poetic view of life. A timeless recognizable style defined by elegance, femininity and creativity are the hallmark features found in all the collections of this historic brand. For over a century Van Cleef & Arpels has been fusing inspiration and technical prowess into creations embodying expertise, ingenuity and modernity. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.vancleefarpels.com. Via Montenapoleone, 10. T: 02 7767951. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

LEATHER & LUGGAGE Giosa Milano

level, there is the boutique, where customers can try the different perfumes in a pleasurable, amicable space, and, on the first floor, an area conceived and designed to be versatile, a perfect venue for meetings and events. Open Sun-Tues 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am7.30pm. www.culti.com Corso Venezia, 53. T: 02 83986600. M1 Palestro. Map G3

KitcheN Milano A reference point on the Milanese scene for cooking enthusiasts. Within its welcoming and modern space, KitcheN offers a wide range of top-quality utensils and gadgets in sought-after designs, as well as a selection of gourmet foods and cookery books. This concept stems from a partnership with knIndustrie which curated its restyling and artistic direction, repositioning the brand and introducing new products and new ‘stories’ dedicated to contemporary and professional cuisine, with a focus on versatility, experience and accessibility. This multi-functional space also hosts a rich events calendar including cookery courses, seminars, cultural meetings, exhibitions and tastings. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. www.kitchenmilano.it. Via E. De Amicis, 45. T: 02 58102849. M2 Sant’Ambrogio.Map E5

UNIQUE An atelier combined with a showroom in the Brera district, where the particular way to work the crocodile leather is, before being a business, a family history for about 50 years. The atelier merges the traditional working techniques of how to handle the most precious leathers with the modern and innovative way to transform them. Today Giosa Milano has become a reality bringing the finest craftsmanship and producing unique pieces intended to satisfy each costumer’s necessity, from the choice of colors to the most sophisticated finish. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm. Sun by appointment. www.giosamilano.com. Vicolo Ciovasso, 1. T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza Map F4

Lego® Store

Il Bisonte

Ottica Chierichetti

At its boutique in via Santo Spirito, Florentine leather goods house Il Bisonte offers customers its full range of luxury items. Its beautifully handcraft bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomize the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly sought-after vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. Located in the heart of the Quadrilatero della moda, in addition to exquisite wood, the brand’s trademark cowhide leather has been used to upholster the furniture and as a decorative element of the store’s interior décor. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.ilbisonte.com. Via Santo Spirito, 14. T:02 76003014. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

PASSION SHOPPING Culti Milano The boutique at 53 Corso Venezia is a multisensory space where cultural, communication and business activities take place in a pleasant and welcoming atmosphere. The store stocks the entire range of the House’s signature: from home fragrances and scented candles, to personal care products. The showroom extends over ca. 287sq.m., distributed over two floors: at ground

A unique ‘playground’ for old and young alike, the new store offers a wealth of innovative options including tables full of Lego brics in all shapes and sizes and an ‘immersion portal’ consisting of a large transparent display case that children can enter in order to get a close-up view of unique scale models created with the famous bricks. It also feature new digital elements including the Lego ‘Minifigures Scanner’, the ‘Digibox’, the largest ‘Pick a Brick’ in Italy and the monthly ‘Mini Model Build’ event. Then, a preview of Lego creator Expert sets. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.lego.com. Corso Monforte, 2 corner of piazza San Babila. T: 02 76001670. M1 San Babila. Map G4 Established in 1914 in Milan, this ‘Bottega Storica’ (Historic Workshop) has been run by the Chierichetti family for three generations. Ottica Chierichetti is a landmark institution for eye care in the city. It offers personalized, highly professional services using the latest, most advanced technology and techniques. From eye tests, all the way to the study of facial features, the shop’s expert team of staff goes out of its way to help customers find the perfect pair of glasses. Ottica Chierichetti also offers repairing and maintenance services, carried out by hand with artisanal attention to detail. Other services include prescription customization and sunglass lenses of the best, high –quality brands from all over the world. www.chierichetti.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9am-1pm/3pm-7pm; Corso di Porta Romana, 74. * Open Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Largo alla Crocetta, 1. T: 02 58314024. Map F6

The Merchant of Venice A historic brand epitomizing the Venetian art of perfume-making, has an elegant, store in Brera. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation reflect the typical style of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. Venetian red, the color used for the shelves and counter, is its dominant chromatic element. The Merchant of Venice carries a luxury line comprising a wide range of exclusive

SHOPPING

Beauty in the City

Chanel

Top addresses where you can find the most exclusive cosmetics and the most sought-after fragrances… for ‘readyto-wear’ beauty! exclusive perfumes for men and women, body-care products, home fragrances and accessories contained in elegant bottles inspired by the tradition of the city’s famous hand-blown Murano glass (via Brera 4, www.merchantofvenice.com). Set within a truly ‘futuristic’ ambience, the Diego dalla Palma make-up studio offers the entire range of the Milanese guru’s products dedicated to professional makeup and beauty treatments (via Madonnina, www.diegodallapalma.com). And, for connoisseurs only, L’Officina Profumo – Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, whose name conjures up the scents of times gone by, still sells traditional elixirs, along with more contemporary skin-care products, oils and perfumes (www.smnovella.it).

Rinascente THE FRAGRANCES OF THE QUADRILATERO It’s no secret that countless big fashion labels have branched out into beauty. The striking boutiques of the Quadrilatero della Moda are packed with the latest collections of designer fragrances and beauty products for him and her. Get on the bandwagon and be seduced by the stunning designer packaging covering beauty products created by Chanel, Hermès, Burberry, Gucci, Fendi and Valentino, and don’t forget the products of Giorgio Armani that are characterized by his sought-after aesthetic and quality, and are on sale at his boutique at number 31 via Manzoni (Armani beauty presso Armani/Manzoni 31 - www.armani.com). There are also many monobrand stores like the Acqua di Parma boutique in via

Diego dalla Palma

Gesù, an ideal location to rediscover the innate values of Italian excellence and artisanship (www.acquadiparma.com). 1989 saw the birth of Etro’s ‘fragrance library’: a universe, consisting of fragrances bottled in the brand’s signature packaging, that uses colour to spark the desire for a perfume and images to play with the imagination. Etro’s fragrances can be purchased at the brand’s centrally located standalone boutique in via Montenapoleone 5 (www.etro.com). The eye-catching boutiques of historic perfumer Jo Malone London are located in via Manzoni 18 and at no. 13 via Santa Maria alla Porta. This is a world dedicated to the rarest fragrances steeped in British culture, where heritage pieces of furniture in shades of beige and black are juxtaposed with more contemporary elements, creating an environment where shopping becomes an intimate, luxurious experience (www.jomalone.com). AMIDST THE PERFUMES OF BRERA If you happen to find yourself in the heart of Brera, the new district of Artistic Perfumery, we recommend three go-to addresses for the beauty addict. First of all, the new boutique of The Merchant of Venice, an historic perfumery epitomizing the art of Venetian perfume-making. It offers a luxury line encompassing a wide range of

ALL IN ONE Rinascente in piazza Duomo is another reference point, where all the most exclusive brands in the sector are found under one roof. After crossing this threshold, you will be welcomed by an entire floor devoted to fragrances and make-up, with dedicated corners where you can treat yourself to a customized make-up experience executed by a highly qualified staff member (www.rinascente.it). Finally, Sephora, with numerous boutiques scattered across the city, is a top spot for the latest pampering products. Here, you can lose yourself amidst thousands of fragrances for him and her, skincare products, and the brightly-coloured cosmetics of some of the most celebrated brands in the sector (www.sephora.it).

Hermès

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SHOPPING Venini The art of glass-making. The new collections and the historic pieces of this brand founded in 1921 are showcased against a neutral, minimalist background. Via Montenapoleone, 10. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.venini.com. T: 02 76000539. M1 San Babila. Map F4

SHOES Alfonso Garlando

OTTICA CHIERICHETTI See page 44.

fragrances for men and women, bath and body collections, home fragrances and accessories in elegant flacons based on the ancient designs of renowned Murano glass blowers. www. themerchantofvenice.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 80581268. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda Valli Tessuti Alta Moda has opened its boutique in the famed Quadrilatero della Moda, just steps

VIBRAM See this page.

away from Teatro alla Scala. A Milanese reference point that, since 1907, has offered its clientele the best Made-in-Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-a-porter and ceremony attire both for men and women but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-7pm. Via G. Verdi, 2. vallitessuti.com. T: 02 782124. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Tailor-made, Italian-style shoes are the protagonists at this charming boutique in the Brera district, which offers made-to-measure shoes for ladies and brides available in hundreds of different styles and a wide array of materials. Open Mon 12.30am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm. www.alfonsogarlando.it. Via Madonnina, 1. T: 02 874665. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Fratelli Rossetti Renowned throughout the world for their comfort and fit. These beautifully handcrafted shoes are a perfect mix of luxury and tradition, with an added touch of originality. Beautiful and stylish to boot. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.fratellirossetti.com. Via Montenapoleone, 1. T: 02 76021650. M1 San Babila. Map G4

Sergio Rossi Sergio Rossi awakens the femme fatale in every woman. Beautifully crafted, comfortable, eye-catching footwear designed for women in search of an iconic symbol of style. Each pair of shoes is checked for quality at least 120 times. Sergio Rossi also stocks handbags. Open MonSat 10am-7pm. www.sergiorossi.com. Via Montenapoleone, 27. T: 02 76006140. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Vibram Milan’s first and unique Vibram ® store represents a benchmark for amateurs and professionals who are looking for products of high quality and performance. The store displays the entire range of Vibram FiveFingers ® offering customers the possibility of feeling the ground without giving up on protection, together with Vibram Furoshiki and other finished good products, plus a big variety of shoes produced by other brand partners, all characterized by a Vibram ® sole. Shop online available Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm. vibram.com. Via R. Sanzio, 6. T: 02 36528461. M1 Buonarroti. Map B4

STATIONERY

A new glass “jewel” by Damiani The Damiani Group recently became the sole owner of Venini, the historic Venetian artistic glass brand founded in 1921, thanks to the acquisition of the final block of shares. Damiani, the Italian luxury jewelry brand is distinguished by and embodies the same values of excellence, creativity and Made in Italy craftsmanship as the renowned glassmaker. Venini is one of the prestigious brands that are offered by Rocca 1794, the only Italian chain of high-end jewelry and watches, epitomizing a world of luxury and exclusivity, in which the value of every object is the result of passion, dedication and know-how. Piazza Duomo, 25. T: 02 8057447. M1-M3 Duomo. www.rocca1794.com

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Pettinaroli Founded in 1881 and now run by the fourth generation, since its inseption Pettinaroli has been considered a reference point for funs and collectors of luxury stationery, period prints and gifts items. Its boutique in the heart of Brera boasts a wide selection of maps and globes, an assortment of exclusive Italian handcrafted leather, writing paper, business cards and printed documents: the ideal location for a souvenir or collector's item. Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Fri 10am-7pm; Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.fpettinaroli.it. Via Brera, 4. T: 02 864646421875. M2 Lanza. Map F4

Tiffany&Co

SHOPPING

DUOMO DISTRICT & MORE Piazza Duomo is also home to the largest Tiffany & Co. boutique in Europe.

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Milan’s historic centre is contained within a relatively small area which is now mostly closed to traffic, meaning that it’s easy to explore on foot. There’s no need to choose between planning a ‘cultural’ itinerary or a ‘shopping’ itinerary because you can combine the two and get the most out of both. In addition to being packed with several of Milan’s most famous attractions, this area is home to myriad shops, including big-name fashion brands, historic ‘botteghe’ and some of the city’s most sought-after cafés, bars and eateries. In the space of just a few kilometers you’ll find the Duomo, the Galleria, Teatro Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

alla Scala, the Castle, the ancient Basilica di Sant’Ambrogio, as well as sporadic traces of ‘Roman Milan’, the first settlement and the predecessor of present-day Milan. AROUND THE DUOMO For the ultimate one-stop shopping experience look no further than the Rinascente flagship store (under the arcades): an amazing array of fashion items under just one roof! Just a little further on, the window displays of Rocca 1794 will seduce you with their collections of several of the world’s most desirable jewellery and watch brands.

TOWARDS TEATRO ALLA SCALA: THE GALLERIA Known as the ‘living room’ of Milan, the Galleria links Piazza del Duomo to piazza della Scala. For the past 150 years, it has been a meeting place for the Milanese and their guests. In the Galleria, haute couture takes centre stage. In addition to Prada and Versace, other standouts include Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Armani, Borsalino, Luisa Spagnoli, Bric’s, Tod’s, Stefanel and Massimo Dutti alternated with historic workshops (whose signs serve as an indication of their storied past). A reference point in Milan for the best Made in Italy cuts is Valli Tessuti Alta Moda, with the perfect fabrics to make elegant outfits. You say ‘aperitivo’ and you immediately think of Camparino in Galleria, a landmark location and a reference point where Milan’s elite meet to partake in one of Italy’s oldest social traditions! Carlo Cracco’s new locale is spread over four floors and focuses on opulent aesthetic and culinary offerings, from breakfast to post-theatre dining. For those in search of a taste of tradition, located just nearby is Luini (renowned for its one-of-a-kind “panzerotti”). Conversely, those favouring a more sought-after gourmet experience can either opt to eat at Ristorante Galleria where you enjoy a taste of Milanese food and hospitality (for generations, the Galli family has defined Milanese hospitality in the Galleria!) or at Ristorante Savini, one of Milan’s most iconic landmark restaurants, or at the Marchesi alla Scala restaurant. Don’t miss the Lavazza flagship store, a space where coffee lovers can sample an authentic espresso and innovative coffee-based recipes.

Camparino in Galleria

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Dr. Vranjes

SHOPPING

BRERA DISTRICT & MORE amidst the heady scents of “brioches” and “cappuccino”, you'll have a chance to begin your day on a high note. A reference point for antique lovers, Brera boasts numerous antique shops and art galleries. Among these, Pettinaroli, just relocated from its historic headquarters near the Duomo to no. 4 via Brera, offers a wide selection of maps and antique prints. As an aside, those interested in bargains or bric à brac should definitely make time to visit the Mercatino di antiquariato e brocantage, held on the third Sunday of each month. The array of boutiques continues with the elegant artisan footwear sold by Iliprandi or the tailor-made, Italian-style shoes by Alfonso Garlando. Other points of interest include the elegant womenswear boutique Rosso35 and Misani's artisanal jewels for him and for her.

Angela Caputi Giuggiù ● Giosa Milano ●

Brera is synonymous with the artistic heart of the city. As you stroll along the streets of this ancient district, you cannot help but be enchanted by its almost surreal atmosphere boasting small artisans’ workshops or quaint stores selling canvases and paints.

historic Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense (Braidense National Library), the Museo Astronomico (The Astronomical Museum), the oldest scientific research institute in the city and the Giardino Botanico (Botanical Gardens).

EDITOR'S TIP Additionally, Brera is home to the impressive Accademia di Belle Arti, where visitors can admire Milan’s famous painting collection at the Pinacoteca di Brera (the Brera Picture Gallery), the

ART AND PASSION SHOPPING To start your sightseeing tour on the right foot, we suggest stopping for a cup of coffee at Princi, not just an ordinary bakery, but a meeting point where,

Since the very beginning, elegance, flair and femininity have represented the three underlying values of each collection signed by Angela Caputi Giuggiù. Angela Caputi’s bijoux are distinguished by the use of synthetic resins highlighted by rigorously handcrafted working and construction techniques. These creations, definable as truly unique pieces, are undeniably precious and sophisticated; an expression of art known throughout the world as a symbol of unadulterated Made-in-Italy excellence (www.angelacaputi.com). Specializing for generations in the working of crocodile skins, Giòsa Milano at no. 1 via Ciovasso manufactures precious pieces which though crafted according to the classic canons of precious skins are nevertheless developed with an innovative, contemporary twist. The history of Giòsa Milano dates back to 1950s and reflects

GIOSA MILANO Surrounded by art galleries and goldsmiths’ workshops, at their atelier in via Ciovasso, Giorgio Santamaria and his son Gioele continue to write the history of high-end Milanese craftsmanship working with exclusive crocodile skins. Giosa offers customers a chance to become the designers of their creations, allowing them to choose from a wide range of precious crocodile skins, available in a remarkable array of colours and finishes. Customers can create their own unique, custom-made accessory inside the atelier’s historic vault under the guidance of expert artisans. www.giosamilano.com Via Ciovasso, 6 - T: 02 86997441. M1 Cairoli, M2 Lanza

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THE BEST OF BRERA DISTRICT ADVERTORIAL

Pinacoteca di Brera the company’s passion and commitment to tradition, a perfect example of Made in Italy artisan luxury. Nestling in the heart of the picturesque Brera district, its workshop fashions a vast range of bespoke creations designed to suit individual tastes, real made-to-measure items ranging from clothing for men and women to accessories such as bags, briefcases, wallets, belts, watch cases, desk-tops and just about anything that can be created using only the finest crocodile skin, including more unusual, contemporary items like Iphone or Ipad covers (www.giosamilano.com). THE PERFUME DISTRICT Considered one of Milan’s quaintest districts, in addition to its picturesque artisanal workshops, Brera is slowly becoming populated with small yet delectable shops carrying only the most sought-after fragrances, transforming the area into a ‘district of Artistic Perfumery’. For both lovers of signature fragrances and for neophytes who are eager to delve deeper into this desirable universe, we suggest a short tour to experience the enchantment of ‘Haute Parfumerie’.

Ristorante Daniel At no. 4 via Brera, we find the The Merchant of Venice boutique, an historic perfumery epitomizing the art of Venetian perfumemaking offering a luxury line encompassing a wide range of exclusive perfumes for men and women contained in elegant bottles inspired by the tradition of the city’s famous hand-blown Murano glass (www.themerchantofvenice.com). At no. 5, we find the Olfattorio Bar-àParfums, dedicated to specialty perfumery, and boasting a truly unique range of artistic perfumes, niche cosmetics and luxury make-up (www.olfattorio.it). The space also has a corner dedicated to Penhaligon’s, the luxury British perfume house established in 1870. The Olfattorio is also present in Milan, at no. 23 via Brera, with the Dyptyque boutique, purveyors of the famous and uber trendy Dyptyque candles (wwwdiptyqueparis.eu), the L’Artisan Parfumeur in via Bagutta 8, renowned for its pioneering spirit and contemporary fragrances for more than 40 years, and a space at Rinascente in piazza Duomo. Other must-visits while in the area include Profumo (via Brera 6, www.profumomilano.

com), the Amouage boutique (via Fiori Chiari 7, www.amouage.com), Dr.Vranjes (via Fiori Chiari 24, http://drvranjes.it), Officina Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (via Madonnina 11, www.smnovella.com), Creed (via Madonnina 17, creed.cale.it), 9Nine (via Ponte Vetero 22, www.beautysanspa.com) and Fragonard (via Solferino 2, www.fragonard.com). TASTING SUGGESTIONS Between visiting one shop and another, you might be surprised to suddenly discover that it’s time for lunch. Try the typical Parma-based charcuterie specialities at Parma & Co, or the famed sandwiches sold by Panino Giusto. The afternoon is likely to pass by in a flash until you suddenly realize that it’s aperitivo time: there’s no doubt that you’ll be captivated by the purely Art Déco-style atmosphere of El Tombon de San Marc, the trendier atmosphere of Fashion Café in via San Marco; another option is Ristorante Daniel offering contemporary Italian cuisine and the chance to enjoy something new from day to day.

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ The precious collections designed by Angela Caputi are a meld of fashion and art. Angela Caputi first established her exclusive workshop in Florence, in 1975, where she personally designs all her collections under the “Angela Caputi Giuggiù” brand name. Renowned throughout the world, her bijoux, made entirely by hand using synthetic resins, are an authentic expression of “Made-in-Italy” elegance. Sophisticated, original creations combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www.angelacaputi.com Via Madonnina, 11 - T: 02 86461080. M2 Lanza

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Dining

The myriad faces of Eataly The Porta Nuova district is a crossroads of open-air locales, futuristic architecture and shopping spaces. Here, highquality dining has found an ideal home at Eataly Smeraldo. BY GIULIA MINERO

f you’re hungry after a stroll through the key places of the ‘new high-rise Milan’, amongst skyscrapers, lush urban parks and shops, you’re in luck. Eataly Smeraldo is located in the heart of piazza XXV Aprile, just steps from Corso Como and the vibrant Moscova neighbourhood. It offers a multi-faceted array of dining options with areas dedicated to the most diverse local delicacies, where you can sample or purchase typical Italian 50 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

and regional products, and gourmet restaurants. Breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus aperitivi in the outdoor area overlooking the square, are all distinguished by the quality of their ingredients. Lovers of seafood specialties can choose from various dishes, featuring raw fish from the Mediterranean at the ’Crudo di pesce’ restaurant, while those who love pizza can sample a special slow-rise version made with organic flour and sourdough, baked in a wood-fired oven. Authentic Italian ingredients and toppings from Slow Food Presidia complete the experience. Tasty offerings featuring meat, cooked fish and seasonal vegetables, accompanied by a rich selection of Italian wines and beers, are prepared daily in the open-plan kitchens, allowing even the most discerning foodies to interact with the chefs, satisfy their curiosity about the dishes on the menu and choose the option they like best.

>> Eataly Smeraldo Piazza XXV Aprile, 10. T: 02 49497301. Open daily 8.30am-midnight. M2-M5 Porta Garibaldi FS. Map F2 www.eataly.net

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

TRADITIONAL ITALIAN CUISINE Cantina Piemontese A top-level “trattoria” with a welcoming atmosphere situated in a beautiful corner of Milan just a short distance from the Duomo. Originally a winery with a prestigious tradition, this charming bistrot furnished in 1930s style offers diners a choice of classic regional cuisine from all over Italy. Certified by the Italian association for celiac disease. Closed on Sun. €€. www.cantina-piemontese.it. Via Laghetto, 2. T: 02 784618. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G5

Don Lisander For more than sixty years, a fashionable restaurant situated right in the heart of Milan, just a short distance from the Teatro alla Scala. An elegant atmosphere and impeccable service. The menu features traditional Lombardy and regional Italian cuisine. The speciality of the house is risotto. For dessert, also try the chestnut semifreddo with persimmon sauce. €€€. www.ristorantedonlisander.it. Via A.Manzoni, 12/A. T: 02 76020130. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Galleria Situated halfway between the Duomo and La Scala, Galleria offers elegant inside and outside dining, the perfect place to enjoy Italian style hospitality, from a simple espresso to the cuisine or mouth watering. Established as a mid twentieth century café, today Galleria is also a stylish restaurant and pizzeria featuring a traditional wood-fired pizza oven. Open 365 days a year from 8am to 1am. Live music after 7. €€. www.ristorantegalleria.it Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 75. T: 02 86464912. M1-M3 Duomo. Map G4

Savini Spread out over three floors in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, for the past 150 years Savini has been one of Milan’s most iconic, landmark restaurants. A favourite haunt of several of the world’s most legendary figures, it continues to be the place where the local elite gather after a night at the opera. Credit for its enduring reputation goes to its blend of tradition and innovation, exemplified by the contemporary cuisine of Executive Chef Giovanni Bon. Its wine cellar, boasting more than 800 labels from all over the world, deserves a special mention. Open Mon-Fri 12-noon to 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm and Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€€€. www.savinimilano.it. Via U. Foscolo, 5 (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II). T: 02 72003433. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

Mieru Mieru All the warmth of a typical Puglia welcome awaits you in Milan’s Navigli district. A sort of ‘protected culinary area’ where, thanks to the hospitality offered by it owners (restaurateurs for generations), diners will feel completely at home. It offers a menu infused with the ‘aromas of the sea and the land’, sourcing what they have to offer on a daily basis. An ideal location for those who love fresh flavours in a warm, welcoming atmosphere. Those wishing to enjoy the ‘scent of the sea’ and a taste of Puglia before dinner can do so while sampling a glass of good wine accompanied by a tantalizing assortment of seafood snacks. Special gluten free menu. Open

Mon-Sat 7pm-midnight. Reservation for lunch. €€. www.mierumieru.it. Via Magolfa, 14. T: 02 89406320. M2 Porta Genova FS. Map E7

Torre The panoramic restaurant, designed to accommodate up to 84 diners, is arranged on three levels of the Torre, inside the Fondazione Prada complex. The decorative elements and artworks covering the walls are by several of the world’s best-known contemporary artists, while the top floor features original furnishings from the Four Seasons Restaurant in New York, designed by Philip Johnson in 1958. The outdoor terrace echoes the porphyry flooring and metal grids characterizing the Foundation’s exteriors, which extend over a surface area of 125 square metres. The seventh floor also hosts a Chef’s table, a private area with a view of the kitchens and a private terrace. The restaurant’s gastronomic concept is based on an Italian menu and traditional regional cuisine, accompanied by a prestigious selection of wines. €€€. www.fondazioneprada.org. Via G. Lorenzini, 14. T: 02 23323910. M3 Lodi. Map G7

Valentino Vintage Restaurant Situated inside a historic 17th century building in the heart of Milan, just steps from the Quadrilatero della Moda, this restaurant offers traditional Italian cuisine in a warm, elegant setting. Its atmosphere, inspired by movie icon Rodolfo Valentino, is infused with an old-world charm reminiscent of the Belle Epoque. Its cuisine is deeply rooted in Italy’s culinary traditions and melds typical Mediterranean dishes, created thanks to the use of only the highest-quality ingredients, with innovative flavours, resulting from creative experimentation. The restaurant also boasts an impressive wine list. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon-3pm/7pm-11pm; Sat 7pm-11pm. Closed on Sun. €€. www.valentinovintage.it. Corso Monforte, 16. T: 02 76394369. M1 San Babila. Map G4

INTERNATIONAL & ETHNIC CUISINE Denzel One of the few truly Kosher restaurants in Milan, serving an international fish and meat menu of delicate contrast. Traditions of the Middle East, America, Asia and South America are combined in delectable, tasty dishes, in a welcoming ambience. It uses only the finest ingredients and rigorously follows the rules of Kashrut. Closed on Friday evening and on Sat. €€. www.denzel.it. Via G. Washington, 9. T: 02 48519326. M1 Wagner. Map C4

El Porteño Possibly the best Argentinean restaurant in Milan, El Porteño is renowned for its succulent meat and churrasco cuts. Exquisite dishes offered by chefs focusing primarily on tradition and high-quality ingredients, house specialities inc asado criollo, grilled beef, pork and veal, empanadas and pollo en escabeche. Also offers a fabulous selection of important wines including Argentinean specialities such as Malbec and Torrontes. Open for dinner. €€€. www.elporteno.it. Viale G. Galeazzo, 25. T: 02 58437593. Map F6 • viale Elvezia, 4. T: 02 34537275. Map E3

Starred flavours Boasting a total of 61 restaurants, Lombardy has reconfirmed its ranking as the Italian region with the highest number of starred restaurants, 19 of which are located in the city of Milan and its outskirts. Real temples of taste where tradition, innovation and research meet thanks to the creative flair of famous chefs. The big news in the Michelin Guide 2020 is the return of a three-star restaurant in the shadow of the Madonnina. By Giulia Minero Enrico Bartolini (Mudec - Museo delle Culture, via Tortona, 56. Map C6) Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia (via Montecuccoli, 6. Off Map) Seta (Mandarin Oriental Milan, via Monte di Pietà, 18. Map F4) Vun (Park Hyatt, via Silvio Pellico, 3. Map F4) L’Alchimia (viale Premuda, 34. Map H4) Berton (via Mike Bongiorno, 13. Map F2) Contraste (via Meda, 2. Map F7) Cracco (Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Map F4) Innocenti Evasioni (via privata della Bindellina. Off Map) IT Milano (via Fiori Chiari, 32. Map F3) Iyo (via Piero della Francesca, 74. Map C1) Joia (via Panfilo Castaldi, 18. Map G3) Lume (via Watt, 37. Off Map) (Il) Ristorante Trussardi alla Scala (piazza della Scala, 5. Map F4) Sadler (via Ascanio Sforza, 77. Off Map) Tano Passami l'Olio (via Petrarca, 4. Map D4) Tokuyoshi (via San Calocero, 3. Map E5) Viva Viviana Varese (Eataly Milano Smeraldo, piazza XXV Aprile, 10. Map F2) D’O (piazza della Chiesa, 14 – Cornaredo. Off Map) More on www.wheremilan.com/guide w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 51

DINING

Pizza in Milan Whether your ideal pizza is a thin-crust slice or a puffy Neapolitan-inspired round, find the best pizza in the city.

TASTING EXPERIENCE Armani/Dolci Via Manzoni 31 is possibly the most glamorous address for Milanese patisserie: Armani/Dolci is a location dedicated by world-renowned designer Giorgio Armani to the world of chocolate and not only. Here you can find elegant pralines, chocolate bars, assorted dragées or fruit preserves, delightful gifts that are perfect for any occasion, also thanks to the store’s elegant, unmistakable packaging. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.armanidolci.com. Via Manzoni, 31. T: 02 62312686. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4

Cova Pasticceria STARITA A gourmand destination where you can either sample real ‘Neapolitan pizza’ or gourmet creations featuring burrata, truffles and typical Made in Campania products. www.pizzeriestarita.it. Via G. Gherardini, 1 (Sempione district). DA RITA E ANTONIO The ideal spot to savour a light, puffy, pillowy crust, prepared according to time-honoured Campanian traditions and crowned with endless topping options. www.daritaeantonio.it. Via G. Puccini, 2/a c/o Teatro dal Verme (Duomo district). SORBILLO A mouth watering combination of sour dough, organic extra virgin olive oil and controlled origin tomatoes and mozzarella. www.sorbillo.it. Lievito Madre al Duomo: Largo Corsia dei Servi, 11 (San Babila district). Pizzeria Gino Sorbillo: via Montevideo 2, corner of via Savona (Navigli district). PIZZIUM High-quality ingredients in an informal atmosphere. In addition to traditional Neapolitan pizza, the venue also serves numerous other regional options. www.pizzium.com. Via Procaccini, 30 (Sempione district) - Via Anfossi, 1 (Corso XXII Marzo district) Viale Tunisia, 6 (Centrale district). BERBERÈ At Berberè, the focus is on the dough without a chemical yeast. The pizza is made from living sourdough, using organic, stone ground, semi-whole wheat flou and is topped with delicious ingredients. www.berberepizza.it Via Sebenico, 21 (Isola district) - Via Vigevano, 8 (Navigli district) - Via Cappellini, 18/A (Centrale district) – NEW Corso di Porta Ticinese, 1 (Porta Ticinese district). SPONTINI A reference point in Milan for pizza slices, Spontini turns out thick, chewy crusts topped with delicious local ingredients. www.pizzeriaspontini.it. Several locations. More on www.wheremilan.com/guide 52 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

Founded in 1817, by none other than one of Napoleon’s soldiers, this is one of the Milan’s oldest pasticceria, an iconic place where tradition meets elegance and style. On the occasion of the 200th anniversary, the venue has recently re-opened following a careful renovation preserving the original Cova signature look. Established as a pasticceria, it also offers a morning espresso, a Milanese-style risotto, an afternoon tea with artisanal pasticcini and pralines or an evening aperitivo. The famous handmade Panettone, signature product of Cova and a jealousy-guarded recipe, is available all year long. Open Mon-Sat 7.45am-8.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. www.covamilano.com. Via Montenapoleone, 8. T: 02 76005599. M3 Montenapoleone. Map G4

Eataly Smeraldo A cult destination dedicated to highclass Italian gastronomy: 5,000 sq.m. devoted to food and the best, locally sourced products spread out over 4 floors hosting not only 19 eateries and a starred restaurant (Alice) but also rooms for food workshops and a convention centre. Eataly has opened in the theatre space of Milan’s former legendary Teatro Smeraldo and hosts a huge stage and offers a totally free season of music. www.eataly.net. Piazza XXV Aprile, 10. T: 02 49497301. M2-M5 Garibaldi FS. Map F2

Marchesi 1824 Pralines and homemade pastries, biscuits and panettone, “veneziana”, chocolates, sweets and over thirty different types of cream cakes, cannoncini and éclairs. Marchesi has recently opened two new shops in Milan, located in the exclusive settings of Via Monte Napoleone and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. A truly tantalizing experience! Open Tues-Sat 7.30am-8pm; Sun 8.30am-1pm. www.pasticceriamarchesi.it. Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/a. T: 02 876730. M1 Cairoli. Map E4 • Open daily 7.30am-9pm. Via Montenapoleone, 9. T: 02 76008238. M3 Montenapoleone. Map F4 • Open daily 7.30am9pm. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. T: 02 94181710. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F4

VALENTINO VINTAGE See page 51.

more than 100 varieties that arrive fresh, each week, from Belgium – are displayed in cases like precious jewels, alongside bars with dried fruits, characteristic letters of the alphabet and greeting cards, all made exclusively from chocolate. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.neuhaus-cioccolato.it. Via San Vittore, 6. T: 02 72000096. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Noberasco 1908 King of dry fruit Noberasco 1908 instantly sealed its success as a reference point for discerning palates and lovers of natural tastes: its products are sourced from all over the world and include a flotilla of the rarest, most delicious culinary delights. Open Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Mon 11am-7.30pm. www.noberasco.it. Via Spadari. T: 02 99201022. M1 Cordusio, M1-M3 Duomo. Map F2

Peck A paradise for food lovers. At this high-class delicatessen, for years an authentic temple of Milanese taste, you will find the best of Italian excellence, from cured meats to sauces, from wines to liqueurs, from cheeses to olive oil. Spread out over three floors, Peck is also a great place for an unforgettable stopover. The search for quality is Peck’s primary aim, achieved through a careful selection of products from all over the world. Don’t miss the “Piccolo Peck”, a gastronomic café at the ground floor reminding a Viennese café of the 30s, where you can relax and taste several specialties. Open Mon 3pm-8pm; Tues-Fri 9am-8pm; Sat 9am-8pm; Sun 10am-5pm. www.peck.it. Via Spadari, 9. T: 02 8023161. M1-M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Neuhaus Maître Chocolatier In Milan, the famous school of Belgium chocolate boasts one of its most famous brands: the Neuhaus shop is a small treasure trove where pralines –

LA VIA DEL TÈ takes customers on a sensory-filled journey of discovery with a green tea blend, with a sweet, fruity strawberry flavour, dedicated to the symbol of Florence. www.laviadelte.it

Milano

FELICE A TESTACCIO Roman cuisine since 1936

Via del Torchio, 4 - Milan PHONE +39 0280506690

Sightseeing

With its gilded altars, priceless relics, mysterious legends and archaeological finds, the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio never ceases to amaze. A landmark attraction for anyone visiting Milan. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

he second most important church after the Duomo, and a unique artistic testament to the early Christian and medieval eras. This is the Basilica of Sant’Ambrogio, located in the same-name square. Built between 379 and 386 A.D. at the behest of the bishop of Milan, Ambrogio, who later became the patron saint of the city, it was restored and enlarged several times over the centuries. The Basilica is fronted by a large four-sided portico, offering a clear 54 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

view of the large hut-shaped façade and its two bell towers. Located on the left side of the four-sided portico, you’ll find the so-called “Devil’s Column”. According to legend, during a struggle with Sant’Ambrogio, the devil ended up with his horns stuck in the column. If you look closely, you can actually see the indent of two holes. On your wanderings through its interior, you’ll come across the iconic Gold Altar, a masterpiece of the Carolingian era, created between 824 and 859. The altar has a wooden base layered with sheets of gold and silver, precious stones and enamels. It was built to signify the presence of the remains of St. Ambrose, St. Gervasus and St. Protasus, which are located beneath the altar and still visible through a small window in the crypt. In 2005, archaeological research resulted in the discovery of ninety tombs of martyrs, dating back to the 4th and 5th centuries A.D. >> Piazza Sant'Ambrogio, 15. M2 Sant'Ambrogio. Map E5

Sant’Ambrogio, the treasure of Milan

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Pinacoteca di Brera

The city of Milan is an important cultural, artistic, design and fashion center. Ambrosiana Picture Gallery The Ambrosiana picture gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries and includes “The Musician”, attributed to Leonardo, Raphael’s cartoon for the “School of Athens” fresco and Caravaggio’s “Basket of Fruit”. Don't miss the "Leonardo da Vinci tour" organized by Zani Viaggi (www.zaniviaggi.it). Open Tues-Sun 9am-7pm. Admission fee €15, €10 for the adjacent Bramante Sacristy, €20 for group tickets. www. ambrosiana.it. Piazza Pio XI, 2. T: 02 806921. M1M3 Duomo, M1 Cordusio. Map F5

Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala The Gallerie d’Italia-Piazza Scala are housed in three historic buildings overlooking Milan’s elegant via Manzoni, piazza della Scala and via Morone. Two buildings host masterpieces of 19th century Italian art from the collections of Fondazione Cariplo and Intesa Sanpaolo: the opulent Neo-classical rooms of Palazzo Anguissola and the 19th century Palazzo Brentani. A new section features 20th century masterpieces from the Intesa Sanpaolo collections. Open: Tues-Sun 9.30am-7.30pm. Thurs 9.30am-10.30pm. Closed on Monday. Full price ticket €10. www. gallerieditalia.com. Piazza della Scala, 6. T: 800.167619. M1-M3 Duomo, M3 Montenapoleone.

in use in the Duomo, linked to its history and construction. Comprising 2,000 square metres of space, twenty seven rooms and thirteen thematic areas, the museum hosts more than two hundred sculptures and over seven hundred gypsum models and then again paintings, stained glass windows, tapestries and architectural models ranging from the 15th century to the present day. Worthy of particular note are the rooms of the Tesoro, Tintoretto’s “Jesus Among the Doctors”, the imposing wooden model of the cathedral built in 1519 and the tiles of the fifth door of the Duomo by Lucio Fontana and Luciano Minguzzi. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Closed on Wednesday and 1 January, 1 May, 25 December. Full price ticket €6. Cumulative ticket 15€ (Terraces of the Duomo by lift, Museum and Tesoro and the Baptistery of San Giovanni alle Fonti). http://museo.duomomilano.it. Palazzo Reale, piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 72022656. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Leonardo da Vinci Housed in a 16th century monastery, this is one of the most important museums of science and technology in the world. Its collections explore the relationship between men and machines starting from the ingenious inventions of the world famous Leonardo da Vinci. Open Tues-Fri 9.30am-5.00pm; Sat, Sun and Holidays 9.30am-6.30pm. Full ticket €10 + Guided tour inside the Enrico Toti submarine

Museo del Design Italiano

€8. www.museoscienza.org. Via San Vittore, 21. T: 02 48555558. M2 Sant’Ambrogio. Map D5

Palazzo Reale Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed-Fri-Sun 9.30am7.30pm; Thurs and Sat 9.30am-10.30pm. www.comune.milano.it/palazzoreale. Piazza Duomo, 12. T: 02 88465230. M1-M3 Duomo. Map F5

Pinacoteca di Brera Opened to the public in 1809, the Pinacoteca di Brera is located in the Neo-classical building of the same name which also houses other cultural institutions including the Braidense Library, the Astronomical Observatory, the Botanical Gardens, the Istituto Lombardo Accademia di Scienze e Lettere and the Academy of Fine Arts. The Pinacoteca hosts one of the most spectacular collections of art in Italy. Don't miss the new layouts of its rooms. Open Tues-Sun 8.30am7.15pm (Thurs 8.30am-10.15pm, the entrance price is 2 euro starting from 6pm until 10.15pm - ticket office closure at 9.40pm). Full ticket price €10. pinacotecabrera.org. Via Brera, 28. T: 02 722631. M2 Lanza, M3 Montenapoleone. Map F3

Map F4

Museo del Design Italiano Located on the ground floor of the Triennale Milano, the Museo del Design Italiano, hosts a selection of the most representative pieces of Italian design from 1946 to 1981. Spread over a surface of 1,300 sq.m, the over 200 works on exhibit are part of the Triennale collection and are displayed in chronological order to provide insights into the history, creative period and context in which each work was designed, as well as the influence they had on daily life objects. Open Tue-Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Full ticket price €18 (exhibition XXII Triennale di Milano Broken Nature included). www.triennale.org. Viale E. Alemagna, 6. T: 02 724341. M1-M2 Cadorna FN. Off Map

Museo del Duomo Totally refurbished in 2013, the museum houses and highlights all the material not presently

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ESSENTIALS Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

S7 S8 S9 S11 S7 S8 S9 S11

Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

PEA

S2 S4 Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4

Cusano Milanino

S1 S3

Cusano Milanino

S1 S3 Bresso Cormano

Vimodrone

Bollate

Novate Milanese RHO Fieramilano

RHO S5-S6 S11 Fieramilano

Novate Milanese COMASINA

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Settimo Milanese

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Urban passes fare limit

S5-S6 -S11

Urban passes fare limit

Villapizzone Certosa S5-S6 -S11 S5-S6 -S11

S2-S4

ISTRIA AFFORI CENTRO AFFORI CENTRO DERGANO MARCHE Bovisa Politecnico DERGANO S1-S2-S3-S4

MACIACHINI

BONOLA TRE TORRI URUGUAY

URUGUAY

SAN SIRO

Stadio Settimo Milanese

BICOCCA Greco Bicocca S7-S8 CA’ GRANDA S9-S11 ISTRIA MARCHE

ZARA MACIACHINI

ZARA

SESTO 1° MAGGIO FS 1° MAGGIO S9-S11 SESTO FS SESTO RONDÒ

ISOLA Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

Lancetti S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

MONUMENTALE GERUSALEMME

ISOLA

SONDRIO

GIOIA MONUMENTALE

CENISIOGARIBALDI FS

TRE TORRI CENISIO

INGANNI

Buccinasco Cesano Boscone

Cesano Boscone

VILLA SAN GIOVANNI COLOGNO NORD COLOGNO NORD VILLA SAN GIOVANNI VILLA FIORITA

Greco Bicocca PRECOTTO S7-S8 S9-S11

Corsico

S1-S2-S5-S6

MOSCOVA S11-S12-S13

LANZA TURATI

CAIAZZO GIOIA CENTRALE GARIBALDIFS FS

Tariff 5 zone

Tariff 4 zone

TURRO

Vimodrone

ROVERETO

S1-S2-S5-S6

CRESCENZAGO CRESCENZAGO

ROVERETO

PASTEUR SONDRIO

CIMIANO

PASTEUR

LORETO CAIAZZO

LORETO

PIOLA CENTRALE FS

UDINE

CIMIANO UDINE

LAMBRATE FS S9 PIOLA

LAMBRATE FS

LIMA S1-S2-S5

S1-S2-S5

S11-S12-S13 REPUBBLICA

P.TA VENEZIA S6-S12-S13 REPUBBLICA P.TA VENEZIA S6-S12-S13 S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

TURATI PALESTRO

PALESTRO Dateo S1-S2

Dateo S1-S2 S5-S6 S12-S13 P. Vittoria Forlanini S1-S2-S5 S5-S6-S9 S6-S12-S14

Forlanini S5-S6-S9

Segrate

ROMOLO

P. Romana FS S9

FAMAGOSTA

S5 S6

BRENTA

CORVETTO CORVETTO ASSAGO MilanofioriASSAGO Nord Milanofiori Nord Buccinasco P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO P.ZA ABBIATEGRASSO PORTO DI MARE PORTO DI MARE Chiesa Rossa Chiesa Rossa ASSAGO ASSAGO Milanofiori Forum Milanofiori Forum

Assago

S1-S12-S13

ROGOREDO FS S1-S12-S13

S. DONATO

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

Rozzano

Opera

S. DONATO

Peschiera Borromeo Peschiera Borromeo

San Donato Milanese San Donato Milanese

S9 Limite tariffa / Fare limitLimite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019

S13

Limite tariff a abbonamenti urbani METROPOLITANA LINEA 1Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani METROPOLITANA LINEA 1 Tariffa / Fare Urban passes fare limit UNDERGROUND LINE 1 Urban passes fare limit UNDERGROUND LINE 1 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 Limite tariff a / Fare limit METROPOLITANA LINEA 2 Limite tariffa / Fare limit UNDERGROUND LINE 2 UNDERGROUND LINE 2 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 Tariffa / Fare METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 METROPOLITANA LINEA 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3 UNDERGROUND LINE 3 Tariffa / Fare METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5 METROPOLITANA LINEA 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4 UNDERGROUND LINE 4 Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

GETTING AROUND MILAN ATM - Azienda Trasporti Milanesi – Local Public Transport Company Open daily 7.30am-7.30pm. www.atm.it. T: 02 48607607 (7.30am-7.30pm). Lost and Found on ATM Vehicles: Mon-Fri 8.30am-4pm. Via Friuli, 30. T: 02 88453900. Ordinary ticket (2€) Valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or the metro Day ticket (7€) Valid 24h. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Three-day ticket (12€) Valid for 3 consecutive days from the day of the first validation until the end of the service on the third day. Unlimited travel on buses, trams and the metro. Check rates for the extra-urban subway. https://nuovosistematariffario.atm.it/en/ Where to buy your ticket: from all authorized ticket sellers, ATM POINTs (Duomo M1-M3, Centrale M2-M3, Cadorna M1-M2, Garibaldi M2-M5, Loreto M1-M2, Romolo M2). and automatic ticket vendors. 56 W H E R E M I L A N I J U N E 2020

Tariffa / Fare 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4

VILLA FIORITA

COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA COLOGNO CENTRO CASCINA BURRONA GORLA COLOGNO SUD VIMODRONE COLOGNO SUD VIMODRONE Vimodrone TURRO

S1-S2-S5 S6-S12-S13

ROMOLO

io al Serio rio Airports

Tariffa / Fare 5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

CERNUSCO S.N. CERNUSCO S.N. Cologno MonzeseCologno Monzese PRECOTTO

GORLA

ROGOREDO FS Corsico

BUSSERO BUSSERO CASSINA DE’ PECCHI CASSINA DE’ PECCHI

SESTO MARELLI SESTO MARELLI

BISCEGLIE

GORGONZOLA

Tariff 6 zone

VILLA POMPEA VILLA POMPEA

SAN BABILA SAN BABILA S5-S6 MONTENAPOLEONE MONTENAPOLEONE BUONARROTI BUONARROTI PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE PAGANO CONCILIAZIONE S12-S13 DUOMO DUOMO P. Vittoria CADORNA FN WAGNER CADORNA FN WAGNER S1-S2-S5 CAIROLI CORDUSIO CAIROLI CORDUSIO S6-S12-S14 MISSORI MISSORI DE ANGELI DE ANGELI S. AMBROGIO S. AMBROGIO CROCETTA CROCETTA GAMBARA GAMBARA S. AGOSTINO S. AGOSTINO P.TA ROMANA P.TA ROMANA BANDE NERE BANDE NERE P. Romana FS P.TA GENOVA FS P.TA GENOVA FS S9 TIBB LODI PRIMATICCIO S. Cristoforo LODI TIBB PRIMATICCIO S. Cristoforo INGANNI

CASCINA ANTONIETTA

GORGONZOLA

SESTO RONDÒ

LIMA

LAMPUGNANO LAMPUGNANO PORTELLO PORTELLO QT8 QT8 MOSCOVA SAN SIRO LOTTO LOTTO Stadio LANZA SAN SIRO SEGESTA SAN SIRO SEGESTA Ippodromo Ippodromo AMENDOLA AMENDOLA

Peschiera Borromeo

Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6

GESSATE

S7-S8 S9-S11 CASCINA ANTONIETTA

Metro automatico per S. Raffaele Metro automatico per S. Raffaele Automatic train to S. Raffaele CASCINA Automatic train to S. Raffaele GOBBA CASCINA GOBBA

Villapizzone S5-S6 -S11

MOLINO DORINO MOLINO DORINO GERUSALEMME S. LEONARDO S. LEONARDO DOMODOSSOLA FNDOMODOSSOLA FN BONOLA

BIGNAMI Parco Nord PONALE

BICOCCA AFFORI FN S2-S4 CA’ GRANDA

AFFORI FN

Quarto Oggiaro S1-S3

S1-S2-S3-S4

PERO

BIGNAMI Parco Nord PONALE

Baranzate Bovisa Politecnico

Certosa S5Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

Baranzate

Pero PERO

Bruzzano S2-S4

COMASINA

S5-S6 S11

Quarto Oggiaro S1-S3

Pero

Cormano

GESSATE

S7-S8

Bresso

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit Urban passes fare limit

Bruzzano S2-S4

Sesto San Giovanni Sesto San Giovanni

Cinisello Balsamo Cinisello Balsamo

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

RONA

Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

S2 S4

Limite tariffa / Fare limit Limite tariffa / Fare limit 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3

UNDERGROUND NETWORK & URBAN RAILWAY SYSTEM

PECCHI

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

OLA

Limite tariffa abbonamenti urbani Urban passes fare limit

ANTONIETTA

S13 S1 S12

S1 S12

Stazione accessibile (ascensori) Stazione accessibile (ascensori) Tariffa / Fare Step-free station (lifts) 3 zone Mi1 - Mi3Step-free station (lifts) Stazione accessibile (montascale) Stazione accessibile (montascale) Step-free station (stairlifts) Step-free station (stairlifts) Tariffa / Fare

Linea 73 Aeroporto di Linate Linea 73 per Aeroporto diper Linate Line 73 to Linate Airport Line 73 to Linate Airport

5 zone Mi1 - Mi5

Terminal bus lunga percorrenza Terminal bus lunga percorrenza distance bus terminal Long distance busLong terminal

Bus Aeroporto di Linate, Bus per Aeroporto diper Linate, Malpensa e Orio Malpensa al Serio e Orio al Serio Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio Airports Bus service to Linate, Malpensa and Orio al Serio Airports 4 zone Mi1 - Mi4 ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita ATM Point: informazioni e punto vendita Malpensa Express Malpensa Express ATM Point: information ATM Point: information and sales point and sales point Tariffa / Fare ferroviarie regionali Linee ferroviarie Linee regionali Regional railways Regional railways Tariffa / Fare 6 zone Mi1 - Mi6 con rete ferroviaria Interscambio conInterscambio rete ferroviaria Connection with railway system Connection with railway system

CITYSIGHTSEEING MILANO HOP ON-HOP OFF

Hallmark red double-decker bus. 7 days a week, all year around. 48 hours: ticket valid for 4 lines, over 40 stops. 10 language commentary. Prices: Adults (1 day) € 22 - (48 hours) € 25 – (72 hours) € 28 - reduced € 10. Departure: Foro Bonaparte 12, in front of Zani Viaggi/Milan Visitor Center (M1 Cairoli). T: 02 867131. You can join the tour from any stop. Tickets on board, in hotels and authorized agencies or on internet. A new electric bus is available. A Line: Castello, Cenacolo, Sant'Ambrogio, Navigli, Università Statale, Duomo, La Scala, Arena. B Line: Castello, Triennale, Corso Como, Stazione Centrale, Buenos Aires, San Babila, Brera. C Line: Castello, Garibaldi, Monumentale, Fieramilanocity, Stadio San Siro, Parco Sempione. D Line: Castello, Cadorna, Navigli. Purchase your Combo tickets for top attractions on board at special prices. www.milano.city-sightseeing.it Map E4

Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM Parcheggio di corrispondenza ATM ATM car park ATM car park

Courtesy ATM – Update Courtesy ATM – Updated on 15 July 2019

Tourist Information INFOPOINT - TOURIST OFFICE OF MILAN Piazza Duomo, 14 Multilingual tourist assistance and information; free distribution of maps and brochures. Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 10am-1pm. T: 02 88455555 - www.yesmilano.it infotourist@comune.milano.it You can also find tourist information in the brand new office: YESMILANO TOURISM SPACE-CAMERA DI COMMERCIO & COMUNE DI MILANO Palazzo Giureconsulti - Via dei Mercanti 8 A highly-digital environment created to "immerse" visitors into a multi-sensory and technological experience. Open Mon-Fri 9am6.30pm; Sat-Sun and holidays 1.30pm-5.30pm T: 02 85155931 - www.yesmilano.it infotourismspace@mi.camcom.it

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREMILAN.COM

Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM MILAN

• EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER. 112

112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. • PASSPORTS Questura di Milano, via Fatebenefratelli, 11. T: 02 62261

4h 01m

3h 40m

48m

Street markets (see map pages 58-59) 1. FIERA DI SINIGAGLIA STREET MARKET– The only “flea market” in Milan, it attracts a varied public ranging from collectors to bargain hunters. Saturdays. www.fieradisinigaglia.it Ripa di Porta Ticinese (from via Paoli to via Bersanti)

37m

2. NAVIGLIO GRANDE ANTIQUE MARKET – A “not-to-be-missed” date for collectors the world over. Last Sunday of every month. Naviglio Grande, from the Darsena to the bridge in via Valenza. M2 Porta Genova FS. 3. MERCATINO FILATELICO (STAMPS AND COINS) – A historic market and the third largest in Europe. Open on Sundays and weekdays. Via Armorari, Via Cordusio, Via C. Cantù, Galleria Cordusio. M1 Cordusio, M1- M3 Duomo. 4. VIALE PAPINIANO STREET MARKET – Held twice-weekly, this is Milan’s largest street market. Tuesdays and Saturdays. Viale Papiniano. M2 Sant’Agostino. 5. ANTIQUE AND SECOND-HAND BOOK MARKET – A monthly appointment for booksellers from all over the world. Every second Sunday of the month (excluding the months of July and August). Piazza Diaz. M1-M3 Duomo. 6. CASCINA CUCCAGNA – A 17th century farmhouse in Milan hosting a farmers’ food market. Every Tuesday, from 3.30pm to 8pm. www.cuccagna.org. Via Cuccagna, corner of via Muratori. 7. EAST MARKET – A pure East London-inspired market boasting vintage or second-hand clothes and accessories, as well as street food. Every third Sunday of the month, 10am-9pm. www.eastmarketmilano.com. Via Mecenate, 84 8. MERCATINO ANTIQUARIATO E BROCANTAGE DI BRERA Every third Sunday of the month

in the charming Brera district, from 9am to 6pm. Via Fiori Chiari-via Madonnina – via Formentini. M2 Lanza. 9. VIA FAUCHÉ STREET MARKET– Very appreciated

by the fashionistas. You can find discounted clothes and shoes of the most prestigious Italian stylists. Twice a week, every Tuesday (7.30am-1pm) and Saturday (7.30am-5pm). 10. MERCATO DEL SUFFRAGIO – Municipal market

in corso XXII Marzo. From Tuesday to Saturday (7.30am-11pm) and Sunday (7.30am-4pm).

ITALO - High Speed Rail. Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance

T: 892020. www.italotreno.it TRENORD - Malpensa Express - Regional & Suburban Railway . Info T: 02 72494949. Mon-Sun 7am-9pm. www.trenord.it. The MALPENSA EXPRESS (www.malpensaexpress.it) links the centre of Milan with the intercontinental hub at Malpensa Airport (Terminal 1 & Terminal 2) with 146 trains a day, between 4.27am and 00.20am. 68 trips to and from Milano Centrale (also stopping at Milano Porta Garibaldi) and 78 to and from Milano Cadorna.

Trains

Airports

TRENITALIA - National Railway Company

MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) (45 km from the centre of Milan - A8 direction Varese). Flight and bus info T: 02 232323. www.milanomalpensa-airport.com • Connection to Milano Malpensa Bus > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza IV Novembre). Travel time 50’. Air Pullman (www.malpensashuttle.com) Ticket € 10. T: 02 58583185; Terravision

Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com Milan offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains. • Turin: 55 min • Bologna: 1 hour • Florence: 1 hour 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 35 min • Rome: 2 hours 55 min • Naples: 4 hours 15 min For more info about the Italy-Switzerland railway connections: www.trenitalia.com or www.ffs.ch.

(www.terravision.eu) € 8; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it) Ticket € 8. T: 02 72001304. Train > from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale). Travel time 50’ ca. It is possible to reach Malpensa also from the Garibaldi FS Station. Ticket € 13. www.trenitalia.com Train > from Cadorna Station. Travel time 40' ca. Trenord (www.malpensaexpress.it). Ticket € 13. (www.trenord.it). T: 02 72494949. MILANO LINATE (LIN) - (6 km from the centre of Milan). Flight information 24h-24h T: 02 232323 (call center). www.milanolinate-airport.com ORIO AL SERIO (BGY) (45 km from the centre of Milan – A4 direction Bergamo). Flights and bus info 24h-24h. T: 035 326323. www.orioaeroporto.it. • Connection to Orio al Serio-Bergamo Bus from the Central Station (Stazione Centrale, corner Piazza Luigi di Savoia). Travel time 60’. Orioshuttle (www.orioshuttle.com). T: 035 330706; Autostradale (www.autostradale.it). T: 035 322915; Terravision (www.terravision.eu) Ticket € 5. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 57

Milano Map CENTRAL MAP at page 36



Malpensa Airport (45km)

Rho Fairgrounds 12

11 San Siro

Stadium

3 14

LEGENDA

SHOPPING AREAS

1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 4 Via Dante

5 Via Torino 6 Brera-Solferino

7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 8 Corso Buenos Aires

9 Corso XXII Marzo 10 Navigli-Porta Ticinese

8 3

6 4

2 1

9 5

ď ‘

Linate City Airport (6 km)

7 11 Vercelli-Belfiore-Marghera 12 CityLife Shopping District

ENTERTAINMENT AREAS

TOP IN TOWN See page 4

LEONARDO DISTRICT

ONLY IN THE ROOMS OF THE BEST HOTELS and online

[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]

Where Milan Magazine

5 STARS DELUXE (L) & 5 STARS Armani Hotel (L) – Via Manzoni, 31 • F4 Baglioni Hotel Carlton Milano – Via Senato, 5 • G4 Bulgari Hotels & Resorts (L) – Via Privata Fratelli Gabba, 7/b • F4 Château Monfort – Corso Concordia, 1 • H4 Excelsior Hotel Gallia (L) – Piazza Duca d'Aosta, 9 • G2 Fifty House – Via B. Cellini, 14 • H5 Fifty House Soho – Via E. Cornalia, 7 • G2 Four Seasons Hotel Milano (L) – Via Gesù, 6/8 • G4 Galleria Vik Milano (L) – Via S. Pellico, 8 • F5 Grand Hotel et de Milan (L) – Via A. Manzoni, 29 • F4 Magna Pars Suites – Via Forcella, 6 • D6 Mandarin Oriental Milan – Via Andegari, 9 • F4 ME Milan Il Duca (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 13 • G2 Meliá – Via Masaccio, 19 • B2 NH Collection Milano President – Largo Augusto, 10 • G5 Palazzo Parigi (L) – Corso di Porta Nuova, 1 • F2 Park Hyatt (L) – Via T. Grossi, 1 • F4 Pierre – Via De Amicis, 32 • E5 Principe di Savoia (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 17• G2 SINA The Gray – Via San Raffaele, 6 • F4 Style – Via delle Erbe • E3 The Westin Palace (L) – Piazza della Repubblica, 20 • G2 TownHouse Duomo (L) – Via S. Pellico, 2 • F5 Viu Milan – Via Fioravanti, 6 • E2

4 STARS & LUXURY RESIDENCES AC Hotel Milano by Marriott – Via E. Tazzoli, 2 • E1 Acca Palace – Via G. Nicotera, 9 • OFF MAP Accursio – Viale Certosa, 88 • OFF MAP Admiral – Via Domodossola, 16 • C2 Andreola Central – Via D. Scarlatti, 24 • H2 Antares Accademia – Viale Certosa, 68 • OFF MAP Antares Rubens – Via P. P. Rubens, 21 • A4 Antica Locanda dei Mercanti – Via San Tomaso, 6 • F4 Arcimboldi – Viale Sarca, 336 • OFF MAP AS Cambiago – Viale delle Industrie - Cambiago (MI) • OFF MAP AS Hotel dei Giovi – Via Manzoni, 99 - Cesano Maderno (MB) • OFF MAP AS Limbiate Fiera – Corso Como, 52 - Limbiate (MB) • OFF MAP AS Monza – Viale Lombardia, 76/78 – Monza (MB) • OFF MAP AS Sempione Fiera – S.S. del Sempione, 320 – San Vittore Olona (MI) • OFF MAP Ascot – Via Lentasio, 3 • F5 Auriga – Via G.B. Pirelli, 7 • G2 Barceló Milan – Via Stephenson, 55 • OFF MAP Baviera Mokinba – Via P. Castaldi, 7 • G3 Berna – Via N. Torriani, 18 • G2 Best Western Antares Concorde – Viale Monza, 132 • OFF MAP Best Western Astoria – Viale Murillo, 9 • A3 Best Western Goldenmile Milan – Viale Cristoforo Colombo, 33 • D6 Best Western Madison – Via L. Gasparotto, 8 • G1 Best Western Major – Viale Isonzo, 2 • MAP H7 Best Western Mirage – Viale Certosa, 104/106 • OFF MAP Best Western Plus Felice Casati – Via F. Casati, 18 • G2 Best Western Plus Hotel Galles – Piazza Lima, 2 • H2 Best Western St. George – Viale Tunisia, 9 • H3 Bianca Maria Palace Hotel – Viale Bianca Maria, 4 • H5 Bristol – Via D. Scarlatti, 32 • H2 Brunelleschi – Via F. Baracchini, 12 • F5 c-hotels Atlantic – Via N. Torriani, 24 • G2 Ca' Bianca Hotel Corte del Naviglio –Via Lodovico il Moro, 117 • OFF MAP Camperio House Suite & Apartments – Via M. Camperio, 9 • E4 Capitol World Class – Via D. Cimarosa, 6 • C4 Carlyle Brera – Corso G. Garibaldi, 84 • E3 Carrobbio – Via Medici, 3 • E5 Cavour – Via Fatebenefratelli, 21 • F3 Citylife Hotel Poliziano – Via A. Poliziano, 11 • D2 Colombia – Via R. Lepetit, 15 • G2 Corvetto Residence – Via Osimo, 10 • OFF MAP Crivi’s – Corso di Porta Vigentina, 46 • G6 Crowne Plaza Milan City – Via M. Gioia, 73 • G1

Da Vinci Milano – Via Senigallia, 6 • OFF MAP De la Ville – Viale Regina Margherita di Savoia, 15 - Monza (MI) • OFF MAP Del Corso – Via G. Pecchio, 2 • I1 Domina Milano Fiera Hotel & Congress – Via G. di Vittorio, 66 – Novate Milanese (MI) • OFF MAP Doria Grand Hotel – Via A. Doria, 22 • H1 Double Tree by Hilton – Via Ludovico di Breme, 77 • OFF MAP Enterprise – Corso Sempione, 91 • C1 First Hotel Malpensa – Via Baracca, 34 - Case Nuove (Somma Lombardo) Malpensa Airport• OFF MAP Four Points by Sheraton Milan Center – Via G. Cardano, 1 • G1 Galileo – Corso Europa, 9 • G4 Glam Hotel – Piazza Duca d’Aosta, 4/6 • G2 Grand Hotel Barone Di Sassj – Via V. Padovani, 38 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP Grand Visconti Palace – Viale Isonzo, 14 • H7 H2C Milanofiori – Via R. Bartolomea, 5 - Assago (MI) • OFF MAP Hilton – Via L. Galvani, 12• G1 Hilton Garden Inn Milan North – Via Columella, 36 • OFF MAP Holiday Inn Garibaldi – Via U. Bassi, 1/A • F1 Hotel dei Cavalieri – Piazza Missori, 1 • F5 Hyatt Centric Milano Centrale – Via G.B. Pirelli, 20 • MAP G1 IH ApartHotel Milano Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 – MAP L4 IH Hotels Lorenteggio – Via Lorenteggio, 278 • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Ambasciatori – Galleria Del Corso, 3 • G4 IH Hotels Milano Gioia – Via della Giustizia, 10/d • OFF MAP IH Hotels Milano Watt 13 – Via G. Watt, 13 • MAP B7 IH Hotels Residence Argonne Park – Via E. Paladini, 7 • OFF MAP Il Castelletto – Via dell’Ecologia, 7/9 – Casarile (MI) • OFF MAP International Residence – Via G. Modena, 4 • H4 Just – Via N. Torriani, 29 • MAP G2 J24 – Viale Jenner, 24 • OFF MAP King Mokinba – Corso Magenta, 19 • D4 Klima – Via Venezia Giulia, 8 • OFF MAP Lancaster – Via A. Sangiorgio, 16 • D3 Leonardo Hotel Milan City Center – Via Messina, 10 • E2 LHP Napoleon – Via F. Ozanam 12 • H2 Lloyd – Corso di Porta Romana, 48 • F5 M89 – Via Mecenate, 89 • OFF MAP Maison Borella – Alzaia Naviglio Grande, 8 • E6 Maison Milano | UNA Esperienze – Via G. Mazzini, 4 • F5 Manin – Via Manin, 7 • G3 Manzoni – Via Santo Spirito, 20 • G4 Marriott – Via G. Washington, 66 • B5 Matilde Boutique Hotel – Via Spadari, 1 • F5 Mediolanum – Via M. Macchi, 1 • G2 Mercure Milano Centro – Piazza G. Oberdan, 12 • H3 Mercure Milano Regency – Via G. Arimondi, 12 • C1 Metrò – Corso Vercelli, 61 • C4 Michelangelo – Piazza Luigi di Savoia, 6 • H1 MiHotel – Via dei Fontanili, 56 • OFF MAP Milan Suite Hotel – Via Varesina, 124 • OFF MAP Milano Castello – Via San Tomaso, 2 • MAP F4 Milano Palmanova – Via Palmanova, 153 • OFF MAP Milano Scala – Via dell’Orso, 7 • F4 Mini Hotel La Spezia – Via Spezia, 25 • OFF MAP Mini Hotel Portello – Via G. Silva, 12 • B2 Mini Hotel Tiziano – Via Tiziano, 6 • C4 Monforte 27 – Corso Monforte, 27 • G4 Montebianco Mokinba – Via Monte Rosa, 90 • A2 Montenapoleone Suites – Via Santa Cecilia, 4 • G4 Mozart – Piazza Gerusalemme, 6 • D2 My Bed Montenapoleone – Piazza San Babila, 3 • Map G4 My Bed – Corso di Porta Ticinese, 24 • Map E5 Mythos – Via C. Tenca, 21 • Map G2 NH Collection Milano Porta Nuova – Via M. Gioia, 6 • F2 NH Hotel Milano Fiera – Viale degli Alberghi - Rho (Milano) • OFF MAP NH Milano Concordia – Via Lama, 10 - Sesto San Giovanni (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Linate – Via A.Grandi, 12 – Peschiera Borromeo (MI) • OFF MAP NH Milano Machiavelli – Via Lazzaretto, 5 • G3 NH Milano Congress Centre – 2a Strada – Assago (MI) • OFF MAP