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FLORENCE CITY GUIDE Â®

MAY 2020

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M A G A Z I N E

www.whereitalia.com/florence

Siamo qui da secoli. Vi aspettiamo. Messaggio dal Paese più bello del mondo. Il settore del turismo ha sofferto più di tutti

Andrea Jarach Publisher Where ®

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della recente pandemia. I lockdown, le chiusure

PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

dei confini, il crollo del reddito disponibile, nel

Andrea Jarach andrea.jarach@proedimedia.com

momento in cui scrivo potrebbero ispirare solo depressione. Ma stiamo invece parlando dell’Italia.

La meta preferita per secoli dai viaggiatori. Infinite volte sfidata da guerre, carestie, epidemie e infinite volte tornata ad essere il Paese più

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desiderato al mondo. Dopo ogni notte ci sarà una alba, e a ben guardare i segni possono essere già colti anche oggi. L’analisi dei big data di internet mostra l’Italia come prima destinazione ricercata in milioni di interrogazioni online. L’offerta del nostro Paese è immensamente vasta per tesori

Carey Bernitz, Floriana di Maio, Elisabetta Giudici, Joy Lacanlale, Fabio Lancini, Language Consulting Congressi, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli ICONOGRAPHY Archivio Proedi Media, Shutterstock CARTOGRAPHY

City Map: © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 Fast Trains Network Map: Dmitry Goloub © Proedi Comunicazione 2020 MARKETING & ADVERTISING

naturali e culturali. Siamo il Paese con il maggior numero di Siti UNESCO Patrimonio dell’Umanità. Se fossimo un museo saremmo il museo più grande del mondo. Se fossimo un ristorante quello con la

Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Marta Mailhac, Daniele Misrachi, Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni advertising@proedimedia.com ADMINISTRATION

cucina più apprezzata. Se fossimo una spiaggia quella meglio attrezzata

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al mondo.

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Montagne, foreste e boschi, laghi, colline paesaggi unici contraddistinguono l’Italia. Ma tutto questo poi è reso unico dalla gente. Meglio, dalle genti. Per millenni la penisola fu meta di migrazioni e popoli del nord o del mare si installarono apportando nuove culture che andarono a creare l’Italia. E adesso caro visitatore ti aspettiamo orgogliosi della nostra Italia, accoglienti, e decisi a offrirti una esperienza unica che nei secoli milioni di viaggiatori hanno ricercato. Dopo la pestilenza del Medio Evo arrivò il Rinascimento. Where® è qui per svolgere la sua missione di guidare i viaggiatori alla scoperta dell’Italia, anche nel nuovo Rinascimento.

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Cristina Garbini cristina.garbini@proedimedia.com REG. TRIB. MILANO No.156 DEL 10/05/2018 EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N.2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) Although the publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published in the next issue. Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.

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WELCOME TO ITALY We’ve been here for centuries. We’re waiting for you. A message from the most beautiful country in the world. The recent pandemic has severely affected one of the linchpins of the global economy – the tourism industry. The current lockdown, closing of borders and drop in available revenue at the time of writing this editorial could be very depressing, but remember we’re talking about Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

Italy: a favourite destination of travelers for centuries. Throughout history, our country has been affected by war, famine and epidemics, and each time it has risen from the ashes to once again become the most desirable tourist destination in the world. Every night is followed by a new dawn, and if you look carefully you will see some signs of this. An analysis of the Internet’s Big Data sets shows that Italy is the first holiday destination in searches by millions

Venice

of Internet users. Italy’s wealth of natural and cultural treasures is unrivalled. Our country boasts the highest number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites. If Italy were a museum, it would be the largest museum in the world, if it were a restaurant it would be notable for having the world’s most-widely appreciated cuisine, and if Italy were a beach, it would be the best equipped in the world. Mountains, forests and woods, lakes, hills and unique landscapes are only some of Italy’s most distinctive features. However, all of this is

Florence

made even more unique by its people. For millennia, the peninsula was a destination for migrants, and people, from all corners of the earth, settled here bringing with them the different cultures that resulted in the creation of Italy. So dear visitor, it is with pride that we have met the enormous challenge of the pandemic, and are now, once again, waiting to show you our Italy. We are here to welcome you with open arms to offer you a unique experience that millions of visitors have enjoyed for centuries. Remember

Turin

the plague in the Middle Ages was followed by the Renaissance! Where® is here to fulfill its mission of guiding travelers on a voyage to discover Italy, especially during this new Renaissance. We look forward to seeing you soon! The Publisher

Rome

>> To check the opening of museums, restaurants, stores and outlets stay tuned on www.wheremilan.com

WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci”, Milan

2 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

Virtual Tours of Italian Museums What can you do when at home for the Coronavirus lockdown? Why not visit a museum in a new way, with a virtual tour, for example. We've rounded up a selection of the Milanese and Italian museums virtually opening their doors to the public thanks to their websites and official social media accounts. BY GIULIA MINERO

ven during these days at home facing the COVID-19 emergency, the culture never stops. Institutions, public and private museums and art galleries are all united to provide their visitors with the chance to explore their collections, the featured exhibitions – which are all closed to the public – and even enjoy site-specific events and special activities. From podcasts to virtual tours, up to videos, playlists, themed focuses on art, architecture and more, you’ll be spoilt for choice. Enjoy your visit!

Pinacoteca di Brera MILAN

Those who are at home for the safety measures to prevent the spread of COVID-19 or people who just would like to visit a museum and don’t have the chance to do it can take advantage of a new concept of museum visits powered by Pinacoteca di Brera (Brera Art Gallery). On the art gallery’s website, lovers of art can discover over 669 works of art thanks to the online collection. Each masterpiece features a caption, a description of the context in which it was created, the used technique and some additional details. Moreover, thanks to a magnifying lens tool, the most curious visitors can get a close up of paintings, altar pieces and religious images as if they were discovering them inside the museum. >> Check the online collection at pinacotecabrera.org

Pinacoteca di Brera, Milan

Museo della Scienza e della Tecnologia “Leonardo da Vinci” MILAN

The Museum is still working to share its most precious treasures with its visitors. #storieaportechiuse engages visitors of all ages in behind-the-scenes tours, explorations of the collections and archives, science news, educational lab activities... with videos, pictures and unpublished documents. Most of the contents are published in Italian in order to reach more effectively the local audiences. Yet you can still enjoy the beautiful pictures and fascinating visual material provided in the program. Here is the daily schedule, every week: Monday: Stories from the Museum’s deposits and behindthe-scenes work. Tuesday: Interactive workshops and informal education. Wednesday: Science and technology news. Thursday: Tales from the Museum’s history. Friday: Items from the Museum’s archives and libraries. Saturday: Virtual

Reality stories. Sunday: Leonardo da Vinci. Other online activities are held on the official Facebook, Instagram and YouTube accounts. >> Check the online activities at www.museoscienza.org

Fondazione Prada MILAN

During the lockdown connected to the COVID-19 issue, Milan’s Fondazione Prada has reimagined its cultural offer thanks to various online services enabling visitors to fully discover the foundation and its heritage straight from their homes. According to this new concept of multimedia experience, the foundation’s website, as well as the official Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Vimeo and YouTube accounts become the ideal stage to share ideas and explore new ways to experiment with culture. Thanks to the “Glossary” section, for instance, the various projects connected to art, cinema, dance, music, architecture and philosophy w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 3

WHERE NOW | ITALIAN GRAND TOUR

Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Venice

Museo Egizio, Turin

is still active. Daily at 5pm artists, designers and architects can be seen and heard live on the official Instagram account (@triennalemilano). Moreover, the official website enables visitors to enjoy interviews, podcasts and highlights on the world of art and culture, as well as videos and images from the historical archives of the Triennale. Other online activities are held on the official Facebook and YouTube accounts. >> Check the online activities at www.triennale.org

Museo Egizio The Vatican Museums, Rome

Live streamings Virtually strolling through gardens, discovering historical dwellings and their precious objects is now possibile thanks to FAI – Fondo Ambiente Italiano. The Italian National Trust has indeed powered its brad-new #Italiamimanchi online project enabling visitors to enjoy some of its most widely-appreciated properties thanks to live streamings on the official FAI account on Facebook, Instagram and on the official YouTube channel. >> Read more at https://www.wheremilan.com/news/ italiamimanchi-online-tours-fai/

launched from 1993 up to our days become the protagonists of an ideal dialogue of art thanks to images, videos, texts and extracts from catalogues. Conversely, the Inner Views initiative has been created to substitute a real visit to the spaces of the Fondazione and to enable visitors to discover the three featured exhibitions – “The Porcelain Room”, “Storytelling” and “K” – thanks to an online learning method based on interviews, images, videos and focus on the featured masterpieces. A more complete vision of art is provided by the Outer Views section, focusing on the contribution of works of art from the Fondazione Prada on loan to other important Italian and foreign institutions. >> Check the online collection at www.fondazioneprada.org

Triennale Milano MILAN

Though Milan’s most known design museum is closed, its Triennale Decameron program 4 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

TURIN

The second largest Egyptian Museum in the world after the one in Cairo, the Museo Egizio in Turin can be enjoyed thanks to special guided tours. Led by the museum’s director – Mr. Christian Greco – and available for free on the official Youtube account, the 8-minute tours help visitors discover insightful highlights on the featured findings. Other multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account (@museoegizio). >> Check the online activities at museoegizio.it

Galleria degli Uffizi FLORENCE

The MuseoCity association, together with Google Arts&Culture has introduced a new way of visiting the precious museum in Florence and its sections thanks to a selection of high-resolution images of the featured works, which include masterpieces by great Italian masters such as Giotto, Simone Martini, Piero della Francesca, Beato Angelico, Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Mantegna, Correggio, Leonardo,

Raffaello and Michelangelo. Moreover, the brand-new IperVisioni (HyperVisions) section on the official website allows guests to enjoy special ad hoc exhibitions creating a dialogue between art from the past and the various cultures of the world. >> Check the online activities at www.uffizi.it

Musei Vaticani The Vatican Museums ROME

The various halls of the Vatican Museums in Rome – which include 26 sections and museums-within-the-museum, among which the Stanze di Raffaello (Raffaello’s Rooms) and the Sistine Chapel – can be admired thanks to 360-degree virtual tours. The tours are available online on the official website and also enable visitors to enjoy a close-up view of the thousands of works of art part of the Popes’ collection gathered through the centuries. Videos and other multimedia contents can be discovered on the official YouTube channel. >> Check the online activities at www.museivaticani.va

Peggy Guggenheim Collection VENICE

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection continues its educational mission with weekly e-news and social media programs that include innovative content designed to share

anecdotes, ideas, and inspiration. Experience the museum through Art Talks dedicated to masterpieces in the collection, short tutorials that bring Kids Days directly to your homes, podcasts on the life of Peggy Guggenheim, Art Quizzes to test your knowledge of art history, and highlights of works art chosen by the public. The multimedia contents can be found on the official Instagram account: Facebook ThePeggyGuggenheimCollection, Instagram @guggenheim_venice, Twitter @GuggenheimPGC >> Check the online collections at www.guggenheim-venice.it

Museo e Real Bosco di Capodimonte NAPLES

Thanks to the collaboration between MuseoCity and Google Arts&Culture, the cultural and artistic gems of the Capodimonte Museum near Naples can be admired online straight from home. The online Google Art&Culture platform gathers over 536 works of art hosted in the museum and on its adjacent park. Over 203 paintings can be seen and analysed close-up thanks to the Art Camera technology, while the special Street View tool enables visitors to enjoy 14 themed stories and virtual tours of the masterpieces hosted in the museum and in the alleys of the Real Bosco. >> Check the online collections at www.museocapodimonte.beniculturali.it

PERSONAL STORIES. Drawing inspiration from Giovanni Boccaccio's “The Decameron”, about a group of young people who stayed outside Florence for ten days to escape the Black Plague in 1348 and took turns in telling stories to kill the time, Triennale Milano has invited artists, designers, architects, intellectuals, musicians, singers, writers, directors and journalists to "inhabit" Triennale Milano’s empty spaces in order to develop a personal story.

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PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK

DUOMO AND CUPOLA Completed in 1436, at the time the Duomo in Florence was the largest Christian church in the world. Today the religious building, the official name of which is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St. Paul’s Cathedral in London. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world. 1

CAMPANILE DI GIOTTO 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore. Lined with white, red and green marble, the majestic square-based bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. 3

BATTISTERO The Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. 2

PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA AND PALAZZO VECCHIO This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. Facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the

6 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David (this is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia). 4 GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI One of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings (from the Middle Ages to the modern age). The Gallery occupies the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari 5 PONTE VECCHIO The official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire

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SAN MINIATO AL MONTE The Abbey of San Miniato al Monte is a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps. The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while the interior, which is unusual and of great beauty, boasts one of the city’s best conserved original floors. 10 MERCATO CENTRALE Built at the end of the 19th century, the Central Market is a building of a certain architectural merit. The project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Today, a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. 11 SANTA CROCE One of the “great basilicas” in Florence, a point of reference of the Franciscan order. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. 12

Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. 6 CORRIDOIO VASARIANO The Vasari Corridor is a raised walkway connecting Ponte Vecchio with Palazzo Pitti. It is a rather narrow passage the entrance to which is at the beginning of the second corridor of the Uffizi Gallery; it then stretches along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, finally arriving at Palazzo Pitti. It was built in 1565 by the great Florentine architect Giorgio Vasari. On display along the Corridor are over 1000 paintings. 7

PALAZZO PITTI AND GIARDINO DI BOBOLI The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the Habsburg-Lorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located Oltrarno, at the foot of Boboli Hill. The Boboli Gardens are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world. 8 PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO This is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. The design of the square dates back to 1869, when Florence was capital of Italy. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. 9

SANTA MARIA NOVELLA A point of reference of the Dominican order, the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. It hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. 13 SANTO SPIRITO A point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. 14 SAN LORENZO One of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the 4th century AD. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. 15 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 7

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DUOMO 1 Among one of the most important Gothic buildings in the world, the church constructed over a period of 450 years is the symbol of Milan. To experience the Duomo at its most majestic you must ascend to the roof. Map F4 GALLERIA VITTORIO EMANUELE II 2 Sometimes known as “the living-room of the Milanese”, this elegant, four-storey arcade, housing luxury cafés and famous designer shops, is covered by a glass barrel vault and a beautiful glass cupola. Map F4 CASTELLO SFORZESCO 3 The ancient seat of the ruling Visconti, it was later rebuilt by Francesco Sforza and is now simply known by the Milanese as “Il Castello”. It houses a number of interesting museums 8 W H E R E M F LO I L AR N E NI CM E AY I M2020 AY 2020

and libraries. Its park is a favourite with old and young alike. Map E4 CENACOLO VINCIANO 4 One of the most famous attractions in the world, “The Last Supper” by Leonardo da Vinci is a 15th century large mural painting representing the scene of the last supper of Jesus narrated in the Gospel. This fragile masterpiece was painted by Leonardo using a technique that was chemically imperfect and by the early 16th century it has started to flake and decay, resulting in numerous restorations. Map D4 PALAZZO REALE 5 Formerly the residence of all those who governed Milan, from Napoleon to the Royal House of Savoy, the Royal Palace is currently

one of the most important cultural centres in the city, hosting exhibitions of international renown. Near the Duomo, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowds of the Duomo’s square. Map F5 PIAZZA SCALA 6 The perfect location for the Gallerie d’Italia Museum and the opera house Teatro alla Scala. In the center of the square is the monument dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci. Map F4 MONTENAPOLEONE DISTRICT 7 Milan is known as one of the shopping capitals of the world and via Montenapoleone, together with the Golden Quad, is entirely given over to luxury shopping. Here the most important fashion designers offer their creations. Map F4-G4

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BRERA DISTRICT 8 This is an artsy neighbourhood which really comes to life at night. The Pinacoteca di Brera is one of the most important museums in Milan. Its permanent collections offer a wealth of exceptionally good Italian and foreign masterpieces. Map F3 AMBROSIANA 9 The Picture Gallery contains several exquisite works of art from the 15th through 17th centuries. The Biblioteca Federiciana has on show Leonardo’s Codex Atlanticus. the Pinacoteca is exhibiting the preparatory Cartoon for The ‘School of Athens’, one of the best-known paintings by Raphael. Map F5 NAVIGLI 10 The Navigli are artificial canals built 800 years

ago to ferry people and merchandise to Milan. This network was perfected in 1457 by Leonardo da Vinci. Today, the area is bursting with trendy dining and nightlife spots. Map E6 SAN SIRO STADIUM 11 With a capacity of 80,000 seats, it is the largest stadium in Italy and the 4th in Europe. Off Map SANT’AMBROGIO 12 One of the most ancient churches in Milan, it was built in 379-386 A.D., in an area where martyrs had been buried. Map E5 PORTA NUOVA DISTRICT 13 A vibrant, futuristic district overlooking two neighbourhoods: the Garibaldi and Isola

districts. The heart of the area is the large raised square dedicated to architect and designer Gae Aulenti. Just a little further on you will encounter the Bosco Verticale with the new Biblioteca degli Alberi.the new BAMBiblioteca degli Alberi. Map S2 TRIENNALE MILANO 14 Since 1923 this is an international institution which organises exhibitions and events about arts, designs, architecture, fashion, cinema, photography and theatre. Map D3 CIMITERO MONUMENTALE 15 A real outdoor museum catering, on the one hand to the whims of the elite of Milan’s society, and on the other to works of art by famous sculptors of various eras. Map E1 w w w.wh e re t rave l e r. com 9

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BASILICA DI SAN MARCO This is the most important catholic church in the city. The original church dates back to before the year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade, embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a 13th century addition. Inside, a triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics and gold, marble and numerous other treasures. 1 PALAZZO DUCALE A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository of innumerable art treasures, it features a number of different and intricate architectural and ornamental details, dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence and government centre of the Doge sit not only houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian, Tiepolo and Tintoretto. 2 10 W H E R E VF LO E NR I CEEN C I EM AY I M 2020 AY 2020

CANAL GRANDE Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful street in the world’, the Grand Canal is the main waterway of Venice. Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces, churches, hotels and other public buildings, it offers a journey back into history, evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient Serenissima. Almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco, where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon, the Punta della Dogana former harbour stands at an important point. Today it hosts important collective or monographic exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault Collection. 3 PONTE DEI SOSPIRI A Baroque bridge that, by crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from which its

name derives are not those of lovers, but those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. 4 TEATRO LA FENICE Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its former splendour (the last time was between 1996 and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it is also a stunning feat of architecture. 5 PONTE DI RIALTO This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Originally built during medieval times as a

SEE MAP PAGE 46 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE This small island is part of the panorama that can be enjoyed from St. Mark’s square and is part of the San Marco sestiere. The church of San Giorgio Maggiore is one of the masterpieces of Andrea Palladio. The monumental complex of the former Benedectine monastery (founded in the 10th century) is now home to the Cini Foundation arts centre hosting ‘Le Stanze del Vetro’ cultural project, devoted to the study and appreciation of 20th century Venetian glass art. 10

LIDO DI VENEZIA The narrow strip of land that extends for a dozen kilometres in front of Venice, dividing the Lagoon from the Adriatic sea, is an island, a town with its own history and a natural reserve, but also a jet-setters’ paradise, with luxury hotels, the Palazzo del Cinema and exclusive Art Nouveau villas. The Lido offers beach lovers 15 km of fine sandy beaches, from the lighthouse of Punta Sabbioni to the picturesque town of Cavallino. In September, it becomes the world capital of cinema. 11

pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market, it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both sides by shops. It includes as many as 120 steps. Witness to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it, but even more spectacular when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a gondola. 6 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA They host the most important collection of Venetian and Veneto artworks dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo and works by several important landscape artists including Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental complex hosting these works occupies the ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità and a complex designed by Andrea Palladio in 1561. 7

THE GHETTO The Jewish ghetto of Venice, the first ever, was established in 1516. It is located in a secluded sestiere of Cannaregio. A walk through ‘calli’, ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’’ allows visitors to soak up a magical, cocoon-like atmosphere that brings to mind Shakespeare’s play the ‘Merchant of Venice’. Here you can admire ancient synagogues, the ‘tower houses’, the ‘schole’ and the workshops. 12 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO A rare gem of Venetian architecture, just steps from Campo San Manin: a combination of Renaissance, Gothic and Byzantine elements. The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of Palazzo Contarini is enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the top, is well worth a visit. 8 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the plague-stricken population of Venice during the 15th century. The interiors are filled with numerous treasures, including an impressive number of works by Tintoretto as well those by Tiepolo and Giorgione. 9

THE ISLANDS Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago, an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of Murano, Torcello or Burano, three charming, small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semi-rural island with only 17 permanent residents and two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past glories. Burano is one of the most photographed sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses reflected in its canals. It is also famous for its artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit, which also resembles lace. 13 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 11

[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]

Top in Turin 10

MOLE ANTONELLIANA A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it was purchased by the municipality who decided to make it a monument to Italian unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the time of its construction it was the highest brick building in Europe. Built in an eclectic style, the Mole has a squat square base topped by a large dome with a spire. You can ascend to the panoramic observation platform either by elevator or on foot by climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 MUSEO EGIZIO Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian museum in the world and the second in terms of the value and quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more than 37,000 12 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

artifacts, from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Egyptologist JeanFrançois Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes passes through Turin’. 2

headquarters of the first Subalpine Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ Christine of France, who took up residence here in 1600. The view of the city from the Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4

MUSEI REALI The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is now owned by the Italian government. The museum tour comprises a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of a major urban transformation and the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which now include artifacts from the prehistoric era to the present time. 3

PARCO DEL VALENTINO Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s most popular park. Its interior houses numerous treasures including the Castello del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). 5

PALAZZO MADAMA Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has always been a reference point in the city, from Roman times to 1848, when it became the

VILLA DELLA REGINA The summer country residence of the House of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the 17th century as a court vineyard. It became known as Villa della Regina (literally the Queen’s Villa) when

SEE MAP PAGE 48 factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10

MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 and is one of the oldest car museums in the world. The semi-circular building overlooking the River Po acts as a prelude to the three floors of the collection featuring a spectacular layout designed by François Confinio, who also designed the exhibition space of the Museum of Cinema. 11 11

ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned by the Juventus Football Club whose home matches have been played here since 2011. An architectural symbol, it is one of the most avant-garde facilities in the world. The J-Museum, the official football museum of the ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. 12

BASILICA DI SUPERGA Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13

King Vittorio Amedeo II gifted it to his future bride in 1714. Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent residence, distinguished by the remains of its original 18th century decorations and furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa della Regina is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 TEATRO REGIO The Regio is one of the most important Italian theatres on the European scene, offering an action-packed program of opera and ballet. It was designed by Filippo Juvarra and inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original building that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is by Umberto Mastroianni. 7

VIA PO PROMENADE A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an absolute must. From here, you can access Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I bridge, which connects it to the square of the church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), renowned for its imposing pantheon-like shape. 8 PIAZZA SAN CARLO Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it was commissioned by Marie Christine of France in true Parisian style with seemingly endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre. 9 LINGOTTO This complex of buildings built in 1916, based on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT

REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Built in Baroque style in 1729, and only 10km from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place for celebrations and events. At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy took up permanent residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became the headquarters of the Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 15 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 13

[ I TA L I A N G R A N D T O U R]

Top in Rome

COLOSSEUM 1 The Colosseum is the indestructible symbol of the Eternal City and the largest amphitheatre ever built. It was used for gladiatorial contests and public spectacles such as mock sea battles, wild animal hunts, executions, and reenactments of famous battles. Map F4

the Four Rivers, which encompasses an Egyptian obelisk and a sculpture of four river gods. Other two magnificent fountains decorate the piazza: the fountain of the Moor, and the Fountain of the Neptune. Map D3

ROMAN FORUM 2 The heart of Ancient Rome. See the Arch of Titus, the Temple of Saturn, the House of the Vestal Virgins, and more. Climb the Palatine Hill to find the Domus Flavia and the Museo Palatino. Map E/F4/5

PIAZZA DI SPAGNA 4 The most famous staircase in the world, with its sinuous flight of steps (1772). Climb the stairs for a fantastic view of the city and visit the stunning Trinità dei Monti church at the very top. At its feet is the graceful Fountain of the Barcaccia by Bernini from which begins Via Condotti, the most exclusive shopping street in Rome. Map E2

PIAZZA NAVONA 3 One of the most beautiful squares in Rome, it boasts Bernini’s Fountain of

TREVI FOUNTAIN 5 Architect Nicola Salvi’s iconic fountain, celebrating the triumph of waters

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with the imperious statue of Oceano dominating the scene. Make sure to toss a coin or two into its famous waters to assure your return to Rome. Map E3 SAINT PETER’S BASILICA 6 The greatest church in the world with art masterpieces including Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s Baldacchino. Michelangelo’s mighty silver-blue dome dominates the grandiose scene, while Bernini’s Colonnade forms the solemn entrance to the Vatican and the Christendom. Map B3 VATICAN MUSEUMS/SISTINE CHAPEL 7 The most important museum of Rome with an incomparable collection of Egyptian, Etruscan, Roman, Renaissance, and baroque art; works by Raphael, Caravaggio, Canova, and

SEE MAP PAGE 50

many more. The Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo is regarded as one of the major artistic accomplishments of human civilization. Map B2 PANTHEON 8 The city only architecturally intact monument from classical times, constructed by Agrippa in 27 BC and rebuilt by Hadrian. The interior measures 43.4 m in width and height. Light and air (and even rain) enter through the opening at the top through which the sky pervade the temple. Map D3 CASTEL SANT’ANGELO 9 Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, transformed into a majestic fortress centuries later, now a museum. It is joined to the Vatican by the famous

Passetto, a passageway used to be a secret escape for the popes. Map C2/3 MOUTH OF TRUTH 0 It is a marble mask which stands against the left wall of Santa Maria in Cosmedin church. As a lie-detector from another time, it attracts thousands of visitors who audaciously stick their hand in the mouth. According to legend, a liar who puts his hand in the mouth will have it bitten off. Map D5 CAPITOLINE HILL ! One of the seven hills of Rome, boasting a piazza, designed by Michelangelo with a bronze copy of the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius in the middle. On the highest

summit of the Campidoglio is located the Basilica of Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, reachable by a steep staircase counting 124 steps. Map D4 PIAZZA DEL POPOLO 12 It is an enormous square architecturally superb and perfectly symmetrical, dominated by an Egyptian obelisk and enriched by important churches such as the church of Santa Maria del Popolo, which boasts masterpieces by Caravaggio and Pinturicchio. Map D1 VILLA BORGHESE 13 The most celebrated and easily accessible villa is Villa Borghese on the Pincian hill. Take a walk through its intricate gardens or go rowing at the romantic Giardino del Lago. Map D1 w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 15

TRADITIONAL EVENTS IN FLORENCE 6 JANUARY

1 MAY

26 JULY

CAVALCATA DEI MAGI A historical re-enactment of the Epiphany when Three Wise Men brought gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the Baby Jesus. A celebration that takes place wearing splendid fifteenth-century costumes.

TROFEO MARZOCCO-SBANDIERATORI A contest between historical groups of flag-wavers organized by the “Bandierai degli Uffizi di Firenze”, which takes place in Piazza della Signoria.

FESTA DI SANT’ANNA A secular and religious festival held near the church of Orsanmichele, in which the figure of Saint Anne, co-patron saint of the city, is venerated.

THIRD SUNDAY IN MAY

10 AUGUST

PALIO DEL BALUARDO A crossbow shooting competition to commemorate the birth of the Florentine Republic on 16th May 1527, the date when the Medici were expelled from Florence. The competition is held at the Bastione known as the Fonte della Ginevra.

FESTA DI SAN LORENZO It takes place in the morning with a “Historical Procession of the Florentine Republic” from the Piazzetta di Parte Guelfa through the streets of the historic centre to the Basilica di San Lorenzo. In the evening, in Piazza San Lorenzo.

23 MAY

END OF SEPTEMBER

LA FIORITA A Florentine tradition celebrating the burning at the stake of Dominican preacher Fra Girolamo Savonarola, a controversial figure in the city’s history. A wreath of flowers is laid on the plaque dedicated to him in Piazza della Signoria, after which rose petals are thrown into the Arno from Ponte Vecchio.

BACCO ARTIGIANO A traditional Festival of Wine and the outstanding products of the territory. Concomitant entertainment events are also held to mark the occasion.

ANNA MARIA LUISA DE’ MEDICI

18 FEBRUARY ANNIVERSARY OF THE DEATH OF THE ELECTRESS OF THE PALATINATE Celebration of the last heir of the Medici dynasty, Anna Maria Luisa: the presence in Florence of extraordinary artistic treasures including the Uffizi Gallery, the Palatine Gallery and the Gallery of the Academy is all due to her. To mark the occasion, some municipal museums allow access free of charge.

25 MARCH CAPODANNO FIORENTINO The Florentine “Old New Year”, celebrated since before the advent of the Gregorian Calendar (1582), with a parade through the central streets of the city in historical costumes.

24 JUNE FESTA DI SAN GIOVANNI and FINALE DEL CALCIO STORICO A contest that has taken place in Piazza Santa Croce for 600 years on the day of St. John the Baptist, the patron saint of the city. Highly competitive, it combines football, rugby and wrestling and is held as the culmination of a tournament between teams from the city’s neighbourhoods: White from Santo Spirito, Red from Santa Maria Novella, Green from San Giovanni and Blue from Santa Croce.

EASTER SCOPPIO DEL CARRO A popular secular and religious tradition that dates back to the time of the Crusades. A procession with percussionists and flag-wavers in historical costumes, city officials and representatives of the clergy, accompanies a cart with a pyrotechnic tower from the church of SS. Apostoli to Santa Maria del Fiore, where it is set alight.

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PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

RITRATTO DI ANNA MARIA LUISA CON I FIORI, OPERA DI ANTONIO FRANCHI, C. 1682–1683.

WHERE NOW | HOT DATES

FESTA DI SAN LORENZO

8 OCTOBER FESTA DI SANTA REPARATA At Santa Maria del Fiore each year the ceremony is held of the offering of candles in the crypt. According to the legend it was thanks to the miraculous intercession of Saint Reparata that the Florentines succeeded in repelling the siege of the Ostrogoths in 406 AD, an event that marked the triumph of Christianity in Florence.

END OF DECEMBER

BACCO ARTIGIANO

FESTA DEGLI OMAGGI An ancient folkloristic event in which the “Procession of the Florentine Republic” addresses the civil and religious authorities to wish them good luck during the festivities.

WHERE NOW | SHOPPING

GIFT

GUIDE We’ve compiled a short guide offering ideas for this season. A great opportunity to spend some pleasant moments browsing the essential destinations for luxury shopping in the centre of Florence, while enjoying its beauties. Where® guarantees that you won’t leave empty-handed!

◄ TIFFANY & CO. From the combination of stylised angles and sleek lines comes the marvellous purity of the “Tiffany T” collection. This splendid yellow gold and corniola pendant framed by sparkling diamonds, with an intense brightness and an extraordinary lustre, is very modern. www.tiffany.it

► GREVI A 1920s shape with raised brim and hand-made grosgrain flower trim: this is just one of the models by the historic company that has been working since 1875 to create women’s, men’s and children’s collections using age-old workmanship techniques implemented by highly specialist personnel. www.grevi.it

▼ L’IPPOGRIFO The charm and tradition of a unique art that can only be found in the shops and laboratories of the Oltrarno: “Ponte Vecchio seen from the rooftops” uses the etching technique, which enables original limited edition numbered graphic works to be created, from etching to printing. www.ippogrifostampedarte.com

▼ BRANDIMARTE From the silver jewellery collection, these silvered, gilded and pink “spring bracelets” are the result of artisan workmanship Made in Tuscany. Like silverware for the table, jewellery too has the aim of enabling the noble metal to be used in daily life so that its beauty and special characteristics can be appreciated. www.brandimarte.com

▲ SAVINI TARTUFI “Il Tartufato” is part of a line of packs designed to give (and give yourself ) inviting truffle products as gifts. Included in this composition are Peschiole with summer truffle, Tagliolini with truffle, Cream with Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and truffle, Butter with summer truffle and Cream of fig, honey and truffle. www.savinitartufi.it w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 17

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN

Siena city panoramic skyline, countryside and rolling hills in a misty day.

Nature and art If Florence offers tourists an unrivalled cultural and historical heritage, its surrounding area no less so. Here are some suggestions for trips outside the city that are able to satisfy any need. For more details ask your concierge. BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI

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f you choose Florence as your base, the good news is that around an hour away by train, bus or car you will find UNESCO heritage cities of art, dreamy countryside, natural thermal springs, medieval towns and abbeys and kilometres of coastline for bathers. CITIES OF ART If you love cities of art then you’ve chosen the right region. Indeed, within an hour’s range from the Tuscan regional capital there are architectural wonders that will catapult you into medieval and Renaissance Tuscany. About an hour by train from Florence is Lucca, one of Tuscany’s most fascinating historic centres, surrounded by ancient 16th-century walls, today still practically fully intact and walkable in their entirely. You can cycle along the tree-lined walls, stop for a tasty ice cream or simply cool down on the benches. The picturesque historic centre has remained almost intact, including countless medieval churches, which have earned Lucca

the nickname of “city of the 100 churches”, Renaissance squares and buildings and Roman amphitheatres. The famous Leaning Tower of Pisa can also be easily reached from Florence in about an hour by train. Loved by tourists from all over the world for its peculiar tilt, the Tower of Pisa is in reality the bell tower of the Cathedral, which stands in a unique monumental context, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site: Piazza dei Miracoli. Once you’ve completed your visit to this unbelievable square, if you have a little time left, you can relax with a walk along the Arno to the historic centre and Piazza dei Cavalieri, the political fulcrum of medieval Pisa. Facing onto the square is Palazzo della Carovana, with graffiti by Giorgio Vasari, which today houses the Scuola Normale Superiore, one of the most prestigious universities in the world. With a brief trip by coach from Florence you reach Siena, one of the most loved medieval centres in Italy, which is also included on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city’s nerve centre is Piazza del Campo, which is renowned for its unique shell shape, for its architectural integrity, and because twice a year (2 July and 16 August) it holds the Palio di Siena, a horse race that is of fundamental importance for the Sienese, which sees the

Fiesole, Roman Theatre

PHOTO © SONGQUAN DENG / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

and convents, you can enjoy beautiful views of Florence and the Florentine countryside. If you love panoramas, another unmissable spot is the small town of Settignano. The very famous Chianti zone, renowned for its vineyards, verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, olive groves, towns and abbeys built on hilltops, is around half an hour by car from the centre of Florence. If you are lucky enough to be there between September and November you can witness two key events for the economy and culture of the territory: the harvesting of grapes and olives. Let’s now leave this idyllic setting and move towards a wilder, more barren territory, that of the Crete Senesi. Located in the area southeast of Siena, the crete are clay hills, the result of the continuous erosion of the sea sediments. These bare, softly undulating hills, with their characteristic grey-blue colour and almost lunar appearance, are dotted with cypresses and farmhouses and still encapsulate the essence of the most authentic Tuscany; they are far

removed from the tourist routes, rich in traces and remains of ancient civilisations, picturesque medieval towns and culinary festivals. TUSCANY BIKING Would you like to discover the area around Florence from a different perspective, more on a human scale and in contact with nature? Then you can opt for a bicycle tour. Pedalling along the romantic olive groves, vineyards, medieval town and Medici villas, taking in the perfumes and colours of the Tuscan countryside in ways that would otherwise be impossible. After the effort of pedalling, almost all the tours envisage rest and refreshment with visits to wine cellars and the tasting of wines, olive oils and local specialities. If you are not particularly sporty but would still like to visit the outskirts of Florence from this unique perspective, then you can choose a tour by Vespa, with that irresistible vintage touch that is undoubtedly less tiring. Ask your concierge.

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

NATURALISTIC ITINERARIES Florence is surrounded by hills, gentle valleys and luxuriant vineyards. Climbing them is easy, both on foot and on the numerous buses departing from the city centre. Over the years the hill of Fiesole has been the source of inspiration for artists, spiritual figures, noble families, writers and entrepreneurs. From this privileged observatory, dotted with villas, museums, archaeological excavations, churches

Lucca, Piazza dell’Anfiteatro

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

seventeen historic districts that comprise the city compete against each other. The square is dominated by a series of buildings of inestimable historical and architectural value, including the 14th-century Palazzo Pubblico and the attached Torre del Mangia, with its characteristic red colour, the Cappella di Piazza, the Loggia della Mercanzia and Palazzo Sansedoni. But Siena is not just Piazza del Campo: lose yourself along the picturesque medieval alleys, where you can purchase the local hand-crafted goods or taste the traditional panforte, the typical Sienese spiced bread with almonds, candied fruit and pepper. And a few kilometres from Siena, another town declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO awaits you with its towers and its characteristic medieval architecture. It is the unmissable San Gimignano, situated in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. Walking round this small town, the 13th/14th-century appearance of which is still practically unchanged, is almost like going back in time. San Gimignano is famous above all for its medieval towers, which were as many as 72 at one time and today are just fifteen, including some in ruins and without their tops but still visible as part of the urban fabric.

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.C E T R R A V E L E

PHOTOS © EGON IPSE

SHOPPING

Glasses with retro charm A little gem for vintage glasses enthusiasts, but also for lovers of models with contemporary designs created using quality materials such as leather, precious metals, gemstones, horn and wood. By Chiara Zaccarelli

ot far from the Fortezza da Basso and the Museum of San Marco, yet away from the crowds of tourists in the historic centre, the Antica Occhialeria retains its charm as an authentic location fully intact. This historic shop, with its interiors in which dark red tones predominate, in contrast with the pale wood furniture and finishes, with its vintage objects and bygone models of glasses, so entering it is like taking a leap back in time. It was 1956, in fact, when Lucio Enrico Di Nardo, an expert collector and art lover, began his activity as an optician. More than 60 years later, the Antica Occhialeria is an artisan concern that is favoured by numerous connoisseurs and lovers of the genre, with a production capable of combining 20 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

aesthetics and visual functionality. Each pair, created using high-quality hand-finished materials fully respecting the tradition of products “Made in Italy”, is inspired by the huge historical collection to which the Di Nardo family and their collaborators are lucky enough to have access. The models, in fact, maintain a characteristic and fascinating retro style, though also standing out on account of the extreme particularity of their design and the use of different, even unusual materials, such as wood, horn, hide, leather and 18kt gold. The Antica Occhialeria also has a vast selection of authentic vintage glasses and designs and manufactures exclusive made-tomeasure models.

>> www.anticaocchialeria.com Via San Gallo, 130/r-134/r T: 055 473055. Off Map

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

The

Guidelines CLOTHING &

MAP LOCATIONS Note that references in bold

at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the coordinates on the street map (pages 42-43). SHOPPING

This directory, grouped by category, is a list of establishments recommended by the editors of Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. Based on statistical evidence, the most popular luxury brands are grouped under the separate category “Top Brands”, which be found on page 22. Several unusual shops, stocking items and rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific product categories, are listed under “Passion Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping sections. Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is generally included in the price of goods.

TAX-FREE SHOPPING

By law, non-EU residents are entitled to reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased and exported from the EU: before finalizing a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant whether they are eligible for a tax refund.

ACCESSORIES Angela Caputi Giuggiù The boutique offers an extraordinary selection of clothing items for every type of woman. In addition, hats, bags and other accessories from all over the world enrich these collections. Stylist and designer Angela Caputi chooses these articles personally to combine with and complete her exclusive resin jewellery with its unique, elegant design. www.angelacaputi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44-46/r. T: 055 292993. Map E4

Anichini

CHILDREN A traditional tailor’s shop for children where skilled artisan hands create elegant items for newborns, children and youngsters using the best Italian fabrics. For each model it is possible to vary the choice of fabrics, colours and details. A century-old workshop of hand-crafting culture, located in 15th-century Palazzo Ricasoli. www. anichini.net. Open Mon 3.30pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via del Parione, 59/r. T: 055 284977. Map D3

Aspesi The cult brand, created in 1969 by fashion veteran Alberto Aspesi, features quirky, tailored lines, elegant details and natural materials. His current collections are still based on the original “no frills” philosophy and will appeal to all those who like their outerwear without flashy labels. www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85/r. T: 055 287987. Men. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4

Brunello Cucinelli The world of Brunello Cucinelli can be summed up as a compendium of art, traditions and Italian craftsmanship. The brand, which came about in Umbria forty years ago from an idea by founder Brunello Cucinelli, represents excellence in the production of high-quality cashmere knitwear and today boasts top-level production with total look men’s and women’s collections. Today it is seen as a model enterprise all over the world for its support for the dignity of work and craftsmanship, defining itself as “a humanistic company”. www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3

Shopping hours are generally from 10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on Sundays (except those located in central Florence) and on Monday mornings. Ask your Concierge. DINING

Reservations for most restaurants are strongly advised. In Italy, service is included in the price meaning that although tipping is not compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is usually considered de rigeur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. Set meals: prices are per person and usually refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. SIGHTSEEING

Several places like the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria are symbols of Florence, hence our decision to list them under a separate category. The information provided on museums and monuments is verified as meticulously as possible. However, data such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices and the accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration work, museum loans or changes of management. Ask your concierge ENTERTAINMENT

Several venues offering food are included in this section. These are considered as meeting places rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain our decision to list them here rather than under “Dining”. All details are correct at the time of going to press but several details can change: ask your concierge to double-check all information.

Il Bisonte, timeless appeal

Enter the Il Bisonte boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno to discover a world dedicated to style and craftsmanship. Since 1970, the Florentine brand of leather goods and accessories founded by Wanny Di Filippo has been distinguished by the originality of its creations, handcrafted by skilled artisans using high-quality materials such as cowhide, leather and all-natural vegetable-tanned leather. In addition to bearing the Made in Italy merchandise mark, Il Bisonte’s bags, document holders, suitcases, travel accessories and small leather goods share the same attention to detail, as regards both their design and the various stages involved in the production process. From leather cutting to splitting and hand-sewn details, each stage of the process is carried out following methods handed down from generation to generation like a precious artwork to be safeguarded. The use of natural materials guarantees the uniqueness of each product, a characteristic that has always been dear to Il Bisonte. Using a traditional Tuscan process of vegetable tanning, an Il Bisonte bag only improves with time, embracing the unique qualities impressed on it with each wear. www.ilbisonte.com. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4

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[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]

Top Brands ALBERTA FERRETTI PHILOSOPHY— www.albertaferretti.com. c/o Spazio A. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 107/r. T: 055 212995. Map E4 ASPESI—www.aspesi.com. Women. Open Mon-Fri 10am2pm/3pm-7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 85. T: 055 287987. Men Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm/3pm7pm; Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm7pm. Via di Porta Rossa, 51/r. T: 055 287931. Map E4 BALENCIAGA— www.balenciaga.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza Santa Trinita, 1/r. T: 055 9040090. Map E4 BOGGI MILANO— www.boggi.com. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm7.30pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 27/r. T: 055 219179. Map E3 BORSALINO— www.borsalino.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Porta Rossa, 40/r. T: 055 218275. Map F4

CARTIER— www.cartier.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 36/r. T: 055 292347. Map E4 CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 2989699. Map F4. Fragrance & Beauty. Open Mon-Sat 10am7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 47-49/r. T: 055 298181. Map F3 CHOPARD— www.chopard.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32/r. T: 055 2670157. Map E4 DAMIANI— www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E3 DIOR— www.dior.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15/r. T: 055 2669101. Map E3 DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 12-18/r. T: 055 281003. Map E4. Baby. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18/r. T: 055 2399909. Map E4 EMILIO PUCCI—www.emiliopucci.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22/r. T: 055 2658082. Map E4

BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 6n. T: 055 284735. Map E3

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.it Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3/r. T: 055 264254. Map E3

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— www.brunellocucinelli.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via dei Pecori, 16/r. T: 055 285832. Map F3

ETRO—www.etro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Palazzo Rucellai-via della Vigna Nuova, 50/r. T: 055 2670086. Map D3

BULGARI—www.bulgari.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 56/r. T: 055 2396786. Map E4 BURBERRY—it.burberry.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 29/r. T: 055 293811. Map E4

FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40/r. T: 055 212305 Map E3 FURLA—www.furla.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30. Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 10/r (corner of piazza della Signoria). T: 055 2382883. Map F4

One of the delightful outfits for this season proposed by CHANEL: ecru tweed and multicolour dress on white silk georgette top, pale grey suede and black grosgrain shoes. To complete the look, a metal, strass, gold and crystal glass necklace. 22 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

Cat-eye sunglasses by MAX MARA with ultra-light acetate frame. A bold, feminine design, inspired by the Punk allure of the late ‘80s. GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am2pm/3pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83/r. T: 055 219041. Map E3 GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 73-81/r. T: 055 264011. Map E3 • Duomo. Open daily 10-19. Via Roma, 32/r. T: 055 75923803. Map F3 • Garden. Open daily 10-19.30. Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927010. Map F4 HERMÈS—www.hermes.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.15am-7pm. Piazza degli Antinori, 6/r. T: 055 2381004. Map E3

LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Piazza degli Strozzi, 10/r. T: 055 266981. Map E3 MAX MARA—it.maxmara.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66-68-70/r. T: 055 214133. Map E3 • Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Pecori, 23/r. T: 055 287761. Map F3 MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, 43. T: 055 290284. Map F3 MISSONI—www.misson.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Porta Rossa, 77-79/r. T: 055 215774. Map F4 MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30; Sun 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 8/r. T: 055 2608931. Map F3 MONCLER—www.moncler.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7; Sun 11am-7pm. Via degli Strozzi, 3/r. T: 055 2657583. Map E3 MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63/r. T: 055 292050. Map E3 POMELLATO—www. pomellato.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 1pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91/r. T: 055 288539. Map E3

Polished calfskin with rounded flap, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI interprets the backpack in a modern, sophisticated style. HOGAN—www.hogan.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97/r. T: 055 2741013. Map E3 HUGO BOSS—www.hugoboss.com. Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72/r. T: 055 294909. Map F4 LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36/r. T: 055 2398688. Map E4

Pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds: from the “D.Side” collection by DAMIANI, this necklace is hand-made with the utmost care devoted to the details.

STEFANO RICCI—www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni - Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map F3 SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10am7.30pm. Via dei Calzaiuoli, 43/r. T: 055 216227. Map F3 TOD’S—www.tods.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60/r. T: 055 219423. Map E3 VALENTINO—www.valentino.com. Women. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23/r. T: 055 293142. Map E4

PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via Roma, 27/r. T: 055 286035. • Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67/r. T: 055 267471 Map E3 SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-45/r. T: 055 9040100. Map E3 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4

Practical and elegant, the FURLA timepiece from the “Giada” line has a 33mm round silvered metal case with smooth leather strap, available in the colours Sand, Violet, Onyx. The accessory is embellished with the Furla logo inside the dial. w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 23

SHOPPING FINE ART Antico Setificio Fiorentino The Antico Setificio Fiorentino is the heir to a great tradition of Renaissance textile art and history, thanks also to its famous warping machine based on a design by Leonardo da Vinci. Since 1786 the workshop has been producing some of the most sumptuous silk brocades, damask, taffeta, and lampas in the world, 100% made in Italy. www. anticosetificiofiorentino.com. Open Mon-Fri 10am-6pm (by appointment only). Via L. Bartolini, 4. T: 055 213861. Map B3

Pitti Mosaici

OFFICINA PROFUMO-FARMACEUTICA DI SANTA MARIA NOVELLA See page 26.

ANTICO SETIFICIO FIORENTINO See this page.

Elena Mirò

Société Anonyme

An Italian prêt-à-porter brand dedicated to curvy women, for over 30 years Elena Mirò has been synonymous with perfect-fit clothing items that enhance every woman’s look with a contemporary, refined and ever new style. From dresses to outerwear, from trousers to accessories, to beachwear, the brand expresses the pleasure of dressing a woman’s shape with style. www.elenamiro.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via dei Tosinghi, 8/r. T: 055 2657725. Map F3

An independent shop of North-European conception inspired by the underground atmospheres of the hot-lazy neighbourhoods of London, Berlin and New York (the name is a homage to Marcel Duchamp and Peggy Guggenheim, who founded an avant-garde art gallery in New York called Société Anonyme in the 1920s). Located in the literary artistic district of Sant’Ambrogio, it offers labels of international renown and niche brands, as well as its own men’s and women’s collection that is only sold in-store and online. www.societeanonyme.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via G.B. Niccolini, 3/f corner of via della Mattonaia, 24/a/b/c/d. (Sant’Ambrogio District).T: 055 3860084. Map L3

Giovanni Raspini In the beating heart of the fashion district, the boutique of the Tuscan jewellery brand based in Valdichiana (between Siena, Arezzo and Florence) is a genuine concept store that boasts a personalized layout design where a 15th-century tapestry stands out. Fine jewellery - with a unique personality, often animal-themed, sometimes oversized or limited edition - silverware, objects for the home, handcrafted white bronze creations, always having a style that is midway between minimalism and classicism as the common denominator. From the design to the wax model to “lost-wax” casting, to diamond-setting, each piece is entirely hand worked. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.giovanniraspini.com. Via Porta Rossa, 82/r. T: 055 2741501. Map E4

Luisaviaroma

MULTIBRAND STORE Founded in the early 1930s by Luisa Jaquin, today Luisaviaroma is a landmark for lovers of fashion and luxury the world over. A global powerhouse of e-commerce with 5 million visitors a month, its Florence store also offers a digitalized purchasing experience: instead of displaying the garments, they have been replaced with interactive installations. Don’t miss the elegant terrace designed by Patricia Urquiola. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. www.luisaviaroma.com. Via Roma, 19-21/r. T: 055 9064116. Map F3

Marina Rinaldi Renowned for its tasteful, plus-size apparel for fashionable women, Marina Rinaldi offers a wide range of collections, featuring both contemporary and classic lines that are updated on a seasonal basis. These include dresses, jackets, coats, bags and accessories for a total look that exudes class and elegance. it.marinarinaldi.com. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm c/o Rinascente-Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3 24 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

Stefano Ricci Tailoring and Italian tradition “Made in Florence”, with the purest male elegance as the watchword. These, in short, are the values of the company founded in 1972 by Stefano Ricci and his wife Claudia, which, now in its second generation, has become a successful international group. From clothing (jackets, suits and high-fashion sports items, but also shirts and ties) to jewellery, from leatherwear to perfumes and the SR Home and SR Junior collections, Stefano Ricci represents Italian excellence all over the world, making production entirely hand-made by qualified Italian craftsmen its strong point. Faithful to the values of the manufacturing tradition and the roots of the territory, in 2010 the firm acquired the Antico Setificio Fiorentino, a historic silk factory in the San Frediano district that has produced precious fabrics since 1786 and today still uses the original ancient hand looms. www.stefanoricci.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Palazzo Tornabuoni-Via dei Pescioni, 1. T: 055 210856. Map E3

DEPARTMENT STORES Rinascente In the heart of the city, Rinascente is the ideal place to discover the best of fashion, accessories, beauty, home and design items. For women, proposals of the best Italian and international brands range from the classic to the contemporary and for men from formal to smart casual. Rinascente is a point of reference for luxury shopping and for new brands, exclusive products and the unveiling of innovations. www.rinascente.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am-9pm; Sun 10.30am-8.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica. T: 055 219113. Map F3

Since the early 1980s this studio right opposite Palazzo Pitti keeps alive the ancient Florentine tradition of marquetry with marble, hard and semi-precious stones. Unique hand-made items to provide coverings for walls, framed items and furnishings recalling the atmospheres and style of the Renaissance. Today the art studio creates entire made-to-measure residential projects all over the world. www.pittimosaici.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-8pm. Piazza de’ Pitti, 23/24. T: 055 282127. Map E6

Torchio (Il) Inspired by the ancient Florentine hand crafting tradition, Il Torchio creates bookbinding products with refined materials such as Florentine leather, hand-marbled paper and coloured cloths, also devising new artisan articles with contemporary materials and techniques. www.legatoriailtorchio. com.Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7pm; Sat 10am-1pm. Via de’ Bardi, 17. T: 055 2342862. Map G6

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Angela Caputi Giuggiù

COSTUME JEWELLERY The brand is renowned throughout the world. Sophisticated, original creations made from unusual materials such as plastic and resin, combined to create unique objects both in terms of colour and shape. Her creations have been used as accessories by famous television and film producers. The accessory as a focal point, capable of creating a look or dressing up any type of garment. A magical blend of contemporary and classical taste. www. angelacaputi.com. Shop and workshop: Open TuesSat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4 • Boutique: Open Mon-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 4446/r. T: 055 292993. Map F4

Annamaria Cammilli A Florentine brand of reference in design jewellery, it has been present with its creations in shop windows and display cases all over the world for over 30 years and is synonymous with a unique, unmistakable Italian style. Attention to detail for rings, necklaces, bracelets and brooches, often drawing inspiration from nature and the floral world. www.annamariacammilli.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 11am-7pm; Sun 3pm7pm. Via Vacchereccia, 12/r. T: 055 2608617. Map F4

Aprosio Aprosio came about as a workshop in 1993 and creates jewellery accessories and products for decorating interiors, with glass beads from Murano and Bohemia crystal glass. www.aprosio.it. Open Mon-Sat 10.30am7pm. Via del Moro 75-77/r, 12/r. T: 055 210127. Map E2

Cassetti 1926 In the spectacular context of Ponte Vecchio, the Cassetti multibrand boutique is known for both fine watchmaking and haute joaillerie, and has a studio

SHOPPING the past it produces unique, rigorously hand-made pieces and is a point of reference for Florentines and others besides. EDITOR’S TIP A visit to the workshop is a unique experience: on the top floor of a 16th-century tower house, for over 200 years master goldsmiths have practised the ancient fretworking, carving and engraving traditions typical of the Florentine goldsmithery art. www.massaiorafi.it. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via delle Terme, 13. T: 055 294800. Map F4

From IL BISONTE’s spring-summer 2020 collection, this woman’s crossbody bag “Salina” in cowhide leather (milk/mint colour) evokes a joyful lifestyle.

that develops innovative projects with its own artisan collection. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 54/r. T: 055 287361. Map F5

Damiani Master craftsmen since 1924, Damiani has a long goldsmithing tradition which it has always interpreted with innovative spirit. Line purity, a refined, elegant classic as well as contemporary spirit, are the distinctive values of Damiani jewellery. Their collections are realized by master goldsmiths in full accordance with the best Italian tradition and admired throughout the world. www.damiani.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 7/r. T: 055 290208. Map E4

Dodo The gold Dodo jewellery line, created in 1995 by Pomellato, is by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes. It sells an array of animal charm pieces, each of which has a particular meaning. www. dodo.it. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11.30am-7pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni, 39-41/r. T: 055 2741573. Map E4

Fani Gioielli Starting out as a family-run shop over 50 years ago, Fani Gioielli is now an established fine jewellery and luxury watchmaking firm, with two points of sale, in Florence and Siena. An extensive range of prestigious jewellery brands, including Pomellato, Dodo and Vhernier; it is also an official Rolex and Tudor retailer. www.fanishops.it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 3pm-7pm. Via de’Tornabuoni, 72/r. T: 055 212075. Map E3

Massai Orafi Founded in 1950 by Florentine master goldsmith Franco Massai, it boasts over 60 years in the field of Florentine fine goldsmithery. With the techniques of

Officine Panerai Situated in the centre of Florence, birthplace of the fine watchmaking trade, this historic boutique boasts a unique design and a strong identity that Spanish designer Patricia Urquiola has enhanced by working with the idea of the “art workshop”. A space on the first floor is devoted to special sales and another is reserved for periodic exhibitions of watches from the historical Museum; on the ground floor, a watchmaker is at customers’ disposal to carry out repairs and share his passion with Panerai enthusiasts. www.panerai.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. Piazza San Giovanni, 14/r. T: 055 9040013. Map F2

Rolex Boutique-Cassetti 1926 In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, the Rolex boutique has three storeys: the ground floor is dedicated to sales, with three display tables; the first floor has two rooms for reserved sales; the second floor has a fully equipped customer care centre, where qualified Rolex technicians are available to look after the precious timepieces. www.cassetti.it. Open daily 10am7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 29/r. T: 055 2741044. Map F5

Tiffany & Co. Located in the luxury shopping street par excellence, the Tiffany & Co. boutique is housed in one of the most beautiful Palazzi in the city. There is plenty of space inside for gold and silver fashion collections, such as ’Tiffany City HardWear’ and ’Tiffany T’, jewels with purest diamonds, the iconic engagement rings, design creations by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso and rigorously Swiss-made men’s and women’s watches. www.tiffany.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via de’ Tornabuoni 37/r. T: 055 215506. Map C4

Vacheron Constantin Boutique In the unique and exclusive setting that is Ponte Vecchio, this boutique is the oldest fine watchmaking design house in the world, founded in 1755 in Geneva. The façade of the boutique is also known for the tabernacle with a painting of the Madonna with Child and Saint John that marked the presence of an ancient oratory of

the Holy Sepulchre, which came under the control of the Knights of Malta in the early 14th century. www.cassetti. it. Open daily 10am-7pm. Ponte Vecchio, 52/r. T: 055 2396028. Map F5

LEATHER Cuoieria Fiorentina From the famous ancient hand-crafting tradition of the Florentine “pellai” [leather craftsmen], typical of this area of Tuscany, here unique, inimitable products are created with extreme care and top-quality natural materials. A vast range of leather handbags, travel bags and accessories (belts, wallets, briefcases…), for him and for her, offering excellent value for money. Another strong point is the personalization of the products, organised to satisfy the tastes and requirements of customers, who can count Michelle Obama among their number. www.cuoieriafiorentina.it. Open Mon-Sat 9am1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via de’ Nicola, 11. T: 055 6505091. Off Map

Gianni Chiarini Established in the 1990s, this brand is the expression of ancient artisan wisdom in the creation of contemporary bags and accessories, with an idea of pure design. A fresh, modern and cosmopolitan brand, but at the same time sophisticated, which has its roots in the heart of Florentine beauty. giannichiarini.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 2pm-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 52/r. T: 055 2654306. Map D3

Il Bisonte Florentine leather goods brand Il Bisonte came about in 1970 thanks to Wanny Di Filippo’s passion for leather objects. Housed in the boutique in Palazzo Corsini on the Lungarno are its beautifully hand-crafted bags, travel bags, briefcases, wallets, diaries, belts and other accessories epitomising the best of Tuscan workmanship. The brand’s key focus is on materials, including its iconic cowhide: a natural, highly soughtafter vegetable tanned leather which has the advantage of improving with age. www.ilbisonte.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm: Sun 11.30am-6.30pm. Via del Parione, 31-33/r. T: 055 215722. Map E4

PASSION SHOPPING AquaFlor A perfume shop with the charm of past times, dedicated to the hand-crafted manufacture of perfumes made using natural and rare raw materials, personalisable through the choice of fragrances. A studio run impeccably by maître parfumier Sileno Cheloni. www. aquaflor.it. - www.aquaflorfirenze.com Open daily

ANGELA CAPUTI GIUGGIÙ In the centre of Florence, in an old 17th-century building known as “Palazzetto Medici”, a few steps from the Ponte Vecchio, are the boutique and the creative heart of Florentine designer Angela Caputi’s brand Giuggiù. Her imaginative plastic jewellery items, much loved by international customers, are genuinely unique pieces of fine craftsmanship. In the Borgo SS. Apostoli boutique it is also possible to purchase a selection of clothing items and accessories that complete the brand’s collections. www.angelacaputi.com Borgo SS. Apostoli, 44/46. T: 055 292993. Map F4 Via S. Spirito, 58/r. T: 055 212972. Map D4

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SHOPPING and chocolates) are sold all over the world in 75 single brand stores and represent a production par excellence on account of their quality raw materials and centuriesold handicraft techniques, with the aid of modern technologies. The frescoed monumental environments - Sales Room, Green Room, Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy - have been returned to their former splendour thanks to restoration work. www.smnovella.com. Open daily 9am-8pm. Via della Scala, 16. T: 055 216276. Map D2

Tax Free Refund Guide 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and services, and is part of the European Union’s value added tax system. 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. This refund does not cover the services supplied by hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: • you are a non-EU resident; • the goods purchased are intended for personal or family use only and are carried in your luggage; • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 Euro (VAT included); • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice should include a description of the goods purchased, your personal information as well as the details of your passport or any other equivalent document; • the goods leave EU territory by the end of the third month after the month that you bought them; • several specific customs formalities are complied with; • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within four months after the purchase was made. 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE checking in). 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be returned within four months from the date when the document was issued. 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” sign in its window). 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating the passenger from having to return the invoice to the retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major international airports or main border crossings. Most major department stores have Tax Free Refund offices. 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the payment of a small administrative sum which is directly deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the traveller. 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re-contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned companies. 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly by customs offices. Source: www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/vta-refund

26 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

The Merchant of Venice

SOCIÉTÉ ANONYME See page 24.

10am-1pm/2pm-7pm. Borgo Santa Croce, 6. T: 055 2343471. Map H5

Dr. Vranjes Home fragrances and elegant furnishing accessories made by hand in Florence for more than 30 years. Florence is home to the laboratories and the headquarters of the Florentine home fragrance company founded and managed by the “nose”, the perfumer, namely chemist and cosmetologist Dr. Paolo Vranjes and his wife Anna Maria. In addition to the traditional production of ambient diffusers and “lamparfum” items, the brand has diversified its production with linen, cosmetics, perfumes and gift boxes, also giving a strong Florentine identity to the packaging, inspired by Brunelleschi’s Dome. drvranjes. it. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3pm7pm. Via San Gallo, 63/r. T: 055 494537 Off Map • Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7.30pm. Via della Spada, 9/r. T: 055 288796. Map E3 • Open Mon 3.30pm7.30pm; Tues-Fri 10am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 10am-7.30pm. Borgo La Croce, 44/r. T: 055 241748. Map l3

Marioluca Giusti A Florentine Maison producing practical, elegant design objects for the table and more besides, in a style between fusion and pop. Its synthetic crystal glass and melamine collections are enhanced every year with new models with colour shades ranging from white to black to transparent, to brighter colours such as fluo. Its products are particularly appreciated by important international personalities such as the Princes of Monaco, King Mohammed VI of Morocco, Steven Spielberg, Valentino and the Missoni family. Its boutiques are characterized by total white walls with niches where the accessories are exhibited, as in a museum. It has several sites in Florence: Por Santa Maria, 16/r (open daily 11am-7pm); Via della Spada, 16-20 (Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm/2pm-7.30pm; Sun 11am7.30pm). Flagship Store: Via della Vigna Nuova 88/r. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. T: 055 2399527. Map D3

NEW The new boutique is structured into a vast range of Eaux de Parfum and Eaux de Toilette, completed by products for personal care, for the environment and accessories. The essences are contained in packaging with designs inspired by the glassmaking tradition of Murano. Furthermore, the single-brand store provides a personalized layering service. www.themerchantofvenice.com. Open MonThurs 10.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm; Wed-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via degli Strozzi, 28/r. T: 055 216559. Map E3

Valli Tessuti Alta Moda A reference point in Florence that offers its clientele the best made in Italy fabrics inspired by the most beautiful haute couture collections. The store carries a vast assortment of precious, sought-after cuts to make elegant dresses, prêt-à-porter and ceremonial attire both for men and women, but also coats, shirts and bridal gowns. vallitessuti.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. Via della Vigna Nuova, 81/r. T: 055 282485. Map D3

SHOES Aquazzura Created in Florence in 2011 and inspired by the luxury hand-crafting tradition, the brand combines a typically European refined aesthetic sensibility with modern Latin American elegance. Aquazzura shoes have been worn by trendsetters, Hollywood stars, European royalty and fashion insiders around the globe. www.aquazzura. com. Open daily 10am-7pm. Palazzo Corsini-Lungarno Corsini, 42. T: 055 291242. Map D4

Salvatore Ferragamo Situated in Florence’s main street for shopping, inside the medieval Palazzo Spini Feroni (the company’s historic workshop since 1938 and the site of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum), the Ferragamo boutique hosts all its fashion men’s, women’s, accessories and perfume collections. The brand represents Italian quality, contemporary elegance, innovation and tradition. The boutique occupies the entire ground floor of the building, inside large spaces decorated with 18th-century frescoes. The wing of the store that faces onto Piazza Santa Trinita hosts the “Ferragamo’s Creations” corner with the exclusive footwear line that revisits some of the brand’s iconic models. www.ferragamo.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. Palazzo Spini Feroni-Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4/r. T: 055 292123. Map E4

UGG

First single-brand boutique in Italy of the Californian lifestyle brand specialising in footwear. A brightly lit space with colours and themes taking up the decorative UNIQUE The oldest historical pharmacy in Europe elements of the UGG 2019 campaign, in the heart (established in 1221), the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica of historic piazza della Repubblica. Inside, the more is housed in a part of the Dominican convent complex of traditional models stands alonside new footwear. Santa Maria Novella and has been open to the public for www. ugg.com. Open 3pm-7.30pm: Tues-Sat 10-30amover four centuries (since 1612). Its products (perfumes, 7.30pm; Sun 11.30am-7.30pm. Piazza della Repubblica, beauty products, medicinal herbs, herbal teas, sweets 30/r. T: 055 0945430. Map F3

Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella

[ D A I LY T O U R S ]

Fashion outlets LUGANO MENDRISIO

Not far from Florence, in Tuscany but also in nearby EmiliaRomagna, don’t miss a trip to these shopping destinations offering discounts year-round.

BERGAMO BRESCIA

NOVARA

TRIESTE

MILANO

ALESSANDRIA TORINO

PIACENZA? Fidenza Village GENOVA

The Mall Sanremo

MAR LIGURE

VENTIMIGLIA

FORTE DEI MARMI

FERRARA

MAR

BOLOGNA ?

LUCCA

PISA

Castel Guelfo ADRIATICO The Style Outlets

Barberino RIMINI ? Designer Outlet THE APPENNINI MOUNTAIN RIDGE

FIRENZE SAN GIMIGNANO ? The Mall Firenze

LIVORNO

SIENA

Valdichiana

? Outlet Village

ANCONA

PERUGIA

BARBERINO DESIGNER OUTLET McArthurGlen Barberino is conveniently located adjacent to the A1 motorway, for easy access from Florence (just 30 minutes from the city centre). McArthurGlen also boasts “Serravalle” near Milan (the largest Designer Outlet in Europe), “Castel Romano” near Rome, “La Reggia” near Naples and “Noventa di Piave” close to Venice. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Bologna and exit at Barberino. Daily shuttle bus service from Florence Santa Maria Novella train station (4 times a day). Meeting point: City Sightseeing Firenze Line A Stop No.1, Florence SMN Train Station, left-luggage office side. • WHAT: the perfect location to find your favourite designer brands at up to 70% off, all year round. With more than 120 boutiques, cafés and restaurants, children’s play area and free parking, surrounded by wonderful Tuscany countryside and architecture, Barberino Designer Outlet offers something for everyone. McArthurGlen.it/Barberino CASTEL GUELFO THE STYLE OUTLETS The point where quality, style and convenience meet: men’s, women’s and children’s clothes, sportswear, accessories and cosmetics with discounts of between 30% and 70% all year round. Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets is located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 1.5 hours from Florence. Open Mon-Fri 10am-8pm; Sat and Sun 10am-8.30pm. • WHERE: take the A1 Bologna-Ancona and exit at Castel San Pietro Terme. A free shuttle service is available daily from Castel San Pietro Terme railway station. 28 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

• WHAT: 110 boutiques by prestigious brands – THE MALL FIRENZE such as Baldinini, K-way, Flavio Castellani, Guess, The luxury outlet centre The Mall Firenze is a Pepe Jeans, Timberland, Trussardi and Vans – of gallery of the world’s most exclusive designers clothing and accessories for the whole family, at truly advantageous prices, offeringPESCARA customers CORSICA sportswear, items for the home and beauty a unique shopping experience. It is set in the products, with discounts of up to 70% on the heart of the Tuscan countryside, just 30 minutes retail price. from Florence. Open daily 10am-7pm (in June, ROMA • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: to make the day of July, August 10am-8pm). shopping even more enjoyable, the centre also • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the TIRRENO hosts art exhibitions, lots of eventsMAR and initiatives direction of Rome. Leave the motorway at the designed to involve the whole family. “Incisa-Reggello” exit and proceed on the right www.thestyleoutlets.it towards Pontassieve, as far as Leccio. Direct bus NAPOLI service from central Florence (Busitalia/Sita bus FIDENZA VILLAGE station-Via S. Caterina da Siena, near the central This is one of the 11 Villages in Europe and China railway station, €7). Exclusive door-to-door of The Bicester Village Shopping Collection® by minivan service from centrally located hotels in Value Retail: a place where hospitality makes the Florence (€35 round trip). Ask your concierge. SARDEGNA shopping experience memorable. The Village is • WHAT: over 40 luxury stores (fashion, fragrance located in the Emilia-Romagna region, 2 hours and footwear) featuring your favourite brands from Florence. Open daily 10am-8pm. with discounts of up to 70% year-round: Gucci, • WHERE: halfway between Bologna and Milan, Fendi, Salvatore Ferragamo, Dolce&Gabbana, near Parma. Take the A1-E35 motorway and exit Jimmy Choo, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and at Fidenza/Salsomaggiore Terme. Chloé (June 2018 Opening). • WHAT: an exclusive shopping experience with • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Gucci Caffè unique hospitality at the core of the services Restaurant, on the top floor of the Gucci store, and with over 120 boutiques of the world’s is the perfect spot for a lunch break or just to leading fashion and lifestyle brands at reduced savour a moment of relaxation after a day’s prices (up to 70% off ), including Missoni, shopping. www.themall.it Jil Sander, Sergio Rossi, Marni, Vivienne Westwood and many more. VALDICHIANA OUTLET VILLAGE • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: the Village pays An authentic “Shopping Village” in the province homage to the region’s rich cultural and of Arezzo (1 hour from Florence), offering a gastronomic heritage. After your day of pleasant, relaxing atmosphere and a unique shopping, visit one of its restaurants to indulge shopping experience characterised by quality in delicious homemade pasta with fresh and convenience. It has several facilities and Parmesan cheese from nearby Parma. services, such as a beauty centre, a playground, www.fidenzavillage.com the library and several food courts where the

best local food and wines are on offer. Open daily 10am-8pm. • WHERE: take the A1-E35 motorway in the direction of Rome and exit at Valdichiana Bettolle. • WHAT: 140 designer and brand shops characterized by quality and convenience offering 30% to 70% discounts all year round and further discounts during sale periods: Adidas, Baldinini, Brooks Brothers, Calvin Klein, Diadora, Geox, Guess, Levi’s, Massimo Rebecchi, Samsonite, Tommy Hilfiger, Under Armour and many others. • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: ample choice of the restaurants and refreshments, a modern playground, the possibility of recharging your electric car, free wi-fi, mobile phone recharge and, in the event of rain, the possibility of walking in the dry beneath the porticoes. www.valdichianaoutlet.it

Valdichiana Outlet Village

Castel Guelfo The Style Outlets

The Mall Firenze

Fidenza Village

Barberino Designer Outlet w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 29

DINING

Traditional cuisine in a historic venue Past and present, culinary art and culture meet here. Within its 17th century walls you can taste the typical cuisine of the territory, accompanied by an interesting selection of wines. By Chiara Zaccarelli

n Florence it may often happen that you find yourself dining “inside history”. This is no less true in the case of the Buca Niccolini restaurant: it came about as a typical Florentine “buca”, that is a tavern located in a building’s wine cellar. The building in question is none other than the adjacent Teatro Niccolini, a space of great historical and architectural interest, the oldest in Florence and among the first “modern” theatres in Europe, the origins of which date back to 1650. After years of abandonment, today the theatre has returned to full activity. It is not uncommon, in fact, after a show, for spectators and artists to stop to dine here. In a central position, a few yards from the Duomo, Buca Niccolini is a pleasant, familyoriented venue, all organised around a 30 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

traditional, sincere and genuine cuisine. Here you will find the great evergreen Tuscan classics, such as “Pappa al Pomodoro”, “Ribollita” and “Pici del Chianti al Cinghiale” (but the selection of first courses is truly endless), then there is “Trippa alla Fiorentina” and, obviously, “Bistecca alla Fiorentina”. And for pizza lovers, there is also a selection of pizzas, from the classics to the most appetising variations, also meeting the requirements of the gluten intolerant. The venue, in fact, possesses a separate area for the preparation of gluten-free pizza. The wine cellar boasts around 80 Italian labels, with particular attention devoted to Tuscan wines. >> www.bucaniccolini.it Via Ricasoli 5/7r. T: 055 292124. Map G2

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

TUSCAN CUISINE Benedicta

EDITOR’S TIP The Benedicta restaurant, to which the Michelin Guide 2017 assigned 3 forks, is a pearl hidden away in a side street near Santa Maria Novella, inside the Rivoli Boutique Hotel. Italian and Tuscan cuisine revisited in a contemporary vein, with a menu based on locally sourced ingredients that changes every two months depending on the season. Open 7.30pm-11pm; closed on Sun. From late April to October you can dine in the romantic flower garden. €€. www.ristorantebenedicta.it. Via Benedetta 12/r. T:055 2645429. Map D2

Bordino Trattoria High up in a little street just a stone’s throw from the Ponte Vecchio, the Trattoria Bordino is always crowded with both locals and tourists because of its quality food at very affordable prices. The dishes are traditional, with bistecca alla fiorentina grilled directly on wood charcoal the speciality. A wide selection of Italian wines accompanies the dishes in a pleasant, relaxed environment. €€. www.trattoriabordino.it. Via Stracciatella, 9/r. T: 055 213048. Map F5

Cammillo A historic Florentine trattoria not far from Ponte Vecchio. Inside it is as if time stood still: the (very long) menu has practically all the classic Tuscan recipes, plus a few you wouldn’t expect like prawn curry with pilaf rice, actually one of Cammillo’s signature dishes. Also very good are the croutons with chicken livers, the ribollita, tripe, bistecca alla fiorentina and stuffed rabbit. €€. Borgo San Jacopo, 57/r. T: 055 212427. Map E5

Cibrèo Ristorante In Florence and in the area near the Market of Sant’Ambrogio, Cibrèo is a trademark for eating well. The Cibrèo Restaurant offers territorial and regional cuisine that is sincere and vigorous, with no fear of strong ingredients such as olive oil, garlic or Tuscan kale, drenched in personality, in the image of its founder Fabio Picchi. The products are strictly seasonal and arrive from rigorously selected farm, fisheries, sheep and cattle breeders. €€€. www.cibreo. com/ristorante. Via Andrea del Verrocchio, 8/r. T: 055 2341100. Map L3

Da Burde The menu changes with the mood of the kitchen, and the seasons. Here you’ll find croutons with chicken livers, fiorentina, pappa col pomodoro, and ribollita. Highlighted by the Michelin Guide as excellent value for money, the atmosphere has remained that of the early 1900’s, as has the food, simple but rich in flavour. A well-stocked cantina, with Tuscan and Piedmontese wines but also French, including some fine champagne. €€€. www.vinodaburde.com. Via Pistoiese, 154. T: 055 317206. Off Map

IO Osteria Personale In the neighbourhood of San Frediano, which still conserves the charm of the most authentic Florence, surrounded by wooden ceilings and brick walls, a modern tavern that has a preference for the products of the territory, reinterpreting them in an innovative way. Among the titbits are crispy vitel toné, ravioli of wild salmon, whipped cream, ginger, herring caviar and dill or tagliatelle with raw red shrimps and seasonal mushrooms. €€. www.io-osteriapersonale.it. Borgo San Frediano 167/r. T: 055 9331341. Map B4

La Ménagère A concept restaurant not far from Battistero, combining restaurant, bistrot, florist and design

store. In an ambiance of industrial design, the restaurant offers a high quality menu at affordable prices, combining traditional dishes based strictly on seasonal products, with a penchant for experimentation in the mix of flavours and textures. €€. www.lamenagere.it. Via De’ Ginori, 8/r. T: 055 0750600. Map F1

Tuscan food

Latini (Il) Historic trattoria near Santa Maria Novella highlighted in the Michelin Guide. Besides bistecca alla fiorentina, there are pork chops and ribs on the Il Latini grill, as well as roast beef or lamb. Also available are Florentine tripe and peposo (peppery Tuscan beef stew), depending on the season. The cantina is well stocked with the best Tuscan wines, autochthonous and non, as well as the big French labels. €€€. www.illatini.com Via dei Palchetti, 6. T: 055 210916. Map D3

Locale Firenze A restaurant steeped in history, in an ancient building where by just descending a few steps you can travel - like in a time machine - from the Renaissance to 13thcentury Florence, to the wine cellars that conserve Roman remains. It is possible to stop for just an aperitif with sophisticated cocktails or stay for dinner with dishes from the tradition revisited in a contemporary vein. €€€. www.localefirenze.it. Via delle Seggiole, 12/r. T: 055 9067188. Map H3

Lungarno23 In the splendid setting of Lungarno Torrigiani, this restaurant is famous for its Chianina meat hamburgers, which are certified with the I.G.P. mark and come from small local farms. Forget the image of fast food, because here the hamburger is accompanied by fresh ingredients, hand-made sesame seed bread, freshly fried potatoes and browned onions. €€. www. lungarno23.it. Lungarno Torrigiani, 23. T: 055 2345957. Map G6

L’Ortone Situated in the emerging San Ambrogio foodie district, opposite the charming street market, the menu is based on typical Tuscan dishes, with a focus on traditional first courses and grilled specialities, including of course the fiorentina. If you want to try something more adventurous you can’t go wrong with the pork liver confit with kale and Boretto onions. €€. www.lortone.it. Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti 87/r. T: 055 234 0804. Map L4

Marione Trattoria The atmosphere of an old-fashioned trattoria in the historic centre of Florence. Here it is possible to taste the typical dishes of Tuscan cuisine surrounded by barrel vaults and baked brick floors. Ribollita, taglierini with truffle, bistecca alla fiorentina and Tuscan cured meats are among the most popular dishes. If you go at the weekend it is advisable to book in advance, because there is usually a long queue of people waiting outside. €€. www.casatrattoria.com/trattoriamarione. Via della Spada 27/r. T: 055 214756. Map E3

Opera Situated inside the Grand Hotel Adriatico, a few steps from the coolest “Oltrarno” district, the Opera restaurant offers dishes from both the Italian and the typical Florentine and Tuscan culinary traditions. In a relaxed and elegant atmosphere, with a music background of the most important operas, you can taste tortelli,tagliata, steak alla Fiorentina and the traditional Florentine dessert ’zuccotto’. Its wine cellar deserves a special mention. Open 7.30pm-10.30pm; closed on Sun. €€. www.hoteladriatico.it. Via Maso Finiguerra, 9. T: 055 294447. Map C2

Pappa col pomodoro

CANTUCCI. The finger-shaped almond biscuits are made by slicing up a long roll of baked dough while still hot. The dough is made with flour, sugar, eggs, butter and raw almonds. Tuscans normally dunk their ’cantucci’ in a fortified local wine called Vin Santo. CIBREO. Dish for strong stomachs, Cibreo is a typical main course of Florentine “poor cuisine” containing liver, chicken hearts, crests, eggs, lemon juice and onion. LAMPREDOTTO. This is Florentine street food par excellence. It’s a cow’s fourth stomach, known as the ’abomaso’, cooked in a herb broth and most commonly served in a panino soaked in the broth or topped with the local parsley-based green sauce. PAPPA COL POMODORO. Soup made of stale bread (unsalted), tomatoes, garlic, basil, extra virgin Tuscan olive oil, salt and pepper. RIBOLLITA. Soup made of stale bread, kale and beans (borlotti, toscanelli or cannellini). ‘Ribollita’ - literally means boiled several times - derives from the fact that in the old days peasants used to make a large pot and serve it, heated up, over a number of days, each time tastier than before. SCHIACCIATA. In Florence you’ll find this simple focaccia baked in a wood oven and dressed with olive oil and salt at any baker’s, but of course everyone has their own preference: soft and well oiled, crisp and salty, or made with ancient grains. (C.Z.)

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DINING

Michelin-starred restaurants Giovannini. A breathtaking view over Florence and across vineyards at the rear, these are just the cherry on the cake of a creative culinary proposal, which in this case too draws its inspiration from the local tradition, with a propensity for quality meat (the boiled sausages and ’soppressata’ are self-produced), but also for vegetables picked directly from the restaurant’s own vegetable and herb garden and for the hand-made bread using flour from ancient grains.

In addition to the historic and well established Enoteca Pinchiorri, with its prestigious three Michelin stars, there are six other Florentine restaurants that have been awarded one star. Let’s enjoy them together. Enoteca Pinchiorri Via Ghibellina, 87. T: 055 242757 enotecapinchiorri.it How do you manage to be honoured with three Michelin stars, the highest recognition, which is only achieved by a hundred restaurants worldwide? In the case of the Enoteca Pinchiorri, it comes from the winning combination of prime quality raw materials, the search for innovation, yet without forgetting the territory’s (great) culinary tradition, obsessive attention to every detail and an unrivalled wine menu, which includes highly prized labels, along with others that are little known but equally interesting. Then we can add the fact that the restaurant is located inside the 18thcentury Palazzo Jacometti-Ciofi and that its desserts are a delight for the senses. Borgo San Jacopo c /o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/r. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com Overlooking the banks of the Arno, with a picture postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the restaurant Borgo San Jacopo is perfect for a romantic evening. In this case the winning recipe is one that blends creativity, tradition and quality ingredients (lamb in sea water or Bresse rooster and octopus are an example of this), all washed down with wines chosen from a cellar of 900 labels. You can opt for the tasting menu (the potatobased one is unmissable) or à la carte. La Bottega del Buon Caffè Lungarno Benvenuto Cellini, 69/r. T: 055 5535677 www.borgointhecity.com/it/la-bottegadel-buon-caffe Zero food miles products gathered from the organic

32 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

vegetable garden that the restaurant possesses in the Florentine countryside, meat reared by local farms and fresh fish. These are the strong points of the Bottega del Buon Caffè. On the Lungarno, in the shadow of the medieval Tower of San Niccolò, chef Erez Ohayon proposes a cuisine based on the use of seasonal ingredients, with a predilection for herbs and spices to bring out the flavours. The seasonal tasting menus include gems such as amberjack served in three ways (tartare, ’ventresca’, fillet) or home-made cappelletti with pigeon, butter and thyme. Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura Piazza della Signoria, 10. T: 055 75927038 www.gucci.com/it/it/store/osteria-bottura Located inside inside the Gucci Garden, the creative liaison between Gucci and Bottura celebrates two things Italy is renowned for: fashion and fine cuisine. Head of the team is Mexican chef Karime Lopez Kondo. The menu is an explosive blend of flavours ranging from Italy to the Orient and offers cosmopolitan titbits such as the “Taka-ban”, the classic Japanese steamed bun with pork belly and spicy sauce, or marinated Adriatic palamita with tortilla or fried aubergines in shiso sauce. In a very intimate setting, the bistro plays around the tones of green and pistachio and can welcome up t o 35 diners indoors. La Leggenda dei Frati c/o Villa Bardini Costa S. Giorgio, 6/a. T: 055 0680545 www.laleggendadeifrati.it Inside the Villa Bardini museum complex in Costa San Giorgio is the one-star restaurant La Leggenda dei Frati helmed by chef Filippo Saporito and his wife Ombretta

Il Palagio Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it Inside the Hotel Four Seasons, in a sophisticated environment with tables both indoors and outdoors, Il Palagio bases itself on a culinary proposal that looks to the Italian and regional tradition with a touch of modernity, as in the terrine of foie gras with Vin Santo gelée or cheese and pepper cavatelli with red shrimps and baby squid. Chef Vito Mollica offers a menu that is a symphony of flavours, raw materials and colours, at times venturing far beyond the confines of Tuscany with dishes based on truffle, wagyu beef or three kinds of caviar. The wine menu includes more than 400 labels, 50 of which also served by the glass.

Borgo San Jacopo Ribollita calssica..e croccante

Ora d’Aria

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Bottega del Buon Caffè

Ora d ’Aria Via dei Georgofili 11/r. T: 055 200169 www.oradariaristorante.com An hour of air to escape from culinary boredom. We don’t know if the owner had this in mind when he gave this name to his restaurant, just a stone’s throw from Ponte Vecchio, but it certainly gives that impression. Tuscan chef Marco Stabile is playing at home with dishes that are a reminder of granny’s recipes but tending towards a more creative contemporary style. Lovers of strong flavours can delight in dishes such as soft-crisp piglet or pigeon cooked in three ways. For lunch the choice of the “tapas” formula allows you to try a selection of small portions of gourmet dishes. The wine cellar boasts Tuscan wines, but also prized Italian and French labels and a highly select menu of beers.

DINING Osteria Badalì Located in the heart of a rather quiet district, San Niccolò. A culinary proposal that revisits the traditions of the past, all about long cooking times and essentials, starting with the study of old cooking texts found on the second-hand book stalls and based above all on homemade pasta and traditional soups, as well as pork products. €€. www.badaliosteria.it. Via dei Renai 11/r. T: 055 2264422. Map H6

Touch Bistrò Toscano Three young entrepreneurs who met over the hobs of the hotelier institute have made their dream a reality by opening this bistro that favours the use of seasonal ingredients selected from the nearby market of Sant’Ambrogio in the neighbourhood of the same name. The menu, which gives a touch of freshness to the Tuscan tradition, proposes, among other things, ravioli di ossobuco, fried egg and fagioli all’uccelletto, but also monkfish and squid. €€. touchflorence.com. Via di Mezzo 42/r. T:055 2466150. Map I3

cuisine (although you can still request a private room for up to ten people in classic 16th-century Florentine style). The bistecca alla fiorentina is excellent, as is the ribollita or pappardelle with Maremma boar ragù. €€. www.bucamario.com. Piazza degli Ottaviani, 16/r. T: 055 214179. Map D3

Buca Poldo A few yards from Piazza della Signoria and Ponte Vecchio, Buca Poldo serves characteristic Tuscan dishes including ribollita, pappa al pomodoro, fiorentina and boar stew, as well as a few forays into other regional cuisines. Although the majority of the courses are meat based, some fish dishes are also available. The kitchen is open on two sides, so that diners can watch the chefs at work. www.bucapoldo. com. Chiasso degli Armagnati, 2/r. T: 055.239.6578. Map F4

Buca San Giovanni

If you love “ciccia” (which is what Tuscans call red meat), you must not miss this steakhouse and delicatessen that is very famous in the city. Located in the heart of the historic centre, a few steps from Piazza della Repubblica, it obviously offers the typical bistecca alla fiorentina but also selections of Tuscan pork, cured meat boards or steak tartare and hamburger made rigorously with Chianina meat. €€. http://ituscani3.com.Via Dante Alighieri 18/r.T: 055 285356. Map F4

Buca San Giovanni is another of Italy’s historic restaurants. Originally the sacristy of the nearby Baptistery of Saint John opposite Florence cathedral, it was also the Rosicrucian masons’ secret initiation venue and countless notables from Florence and elsewhere have enjoyed a meal under its ancient vaults. There is no lack of classic dishes such as ossobuco alla Fiorentina (oxtail) and stracotto al Chianti (beef braised in Chianti), but the cuisine also stretches to other Italian regional specialities, such as bucatini all’amatriciana, spaghetti alla carbonara or linguine al pesto. www.bucasangiovanni.it. Piazza San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 287612 Map F

Zeb

Fiaschetteria Nuvoli

Just moments away from Piazzale Michelangelo and the Giardino delle Rose, Zeb - highlighted by the Michelin Guide - serves a host of traditional Tuscan dishes such as cappellacci, tripe, lampredotto, meat balls and stuffed rabbit. A tiny place, the diners eat at the bar, like a delicatessen (actually, its former identity). There is a large selection of Italian wines, with a special focus on small local producers. €€. www.zebgastronomia.com. Via San Miniato, 2. T: 055 2342864. Map H6

Just a few steps from Piazza Duomo is an obligatory destination for anyone who has ever wondered what Florence’s old wine cellars were really like in the past. Open from 8.30 in the morning until evening, it serves typical Tuscan specialities such as chicken liver croutons, cold cuts, tagliatelle al ragù, fried chicken or brains, ribollita, pappa col pomodoro and roast porchetta. There is also a vast choice of Tuscan wines, also available for aperitifs. Piazza dell’Olio, 15/r. T: 055 239 6616. Map F2

CANTINE

PIZZA

Antica Mescita San Niccolò

Pizza Man

Tuscani 3 (I)

Ever wanted to eat lunch in a 1000 AD Romanesque crypt? In Florence you can, at the Antica Mescita San Niccolò, which also used to serve as a customs post for wine originating from Chianti. Naturally, the wine is excellent and predominately Tuscan and the food also reflects the season and the local territory, with dishes such as cold cuts and mixed cheeses, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina and lampredotto, to name just a few. €€. www.osteriasanniccolo.it. Via San Niccolò, 60/r. T: 055 2342836. Map H6

Buca Lapi This is one of Florence’s oldest eating places. Crafted out of the wine cellars of the Renaissance Palazzo Antinori, it still preserves traces of over a century of history thanks to the meticulous restoration of the internal frescoes. Buca Lapi is particularly popular with lovers of the real fiorentina, but the other local Tuscan dishes are worth trying too, such as croutons, ribollita or wild boar with polenta. €€€. www.bucalapi.com. Via del Trebbio 1/r. T: 055 213768. Map E3

Buca Mario For years ordinary folk have rubbed shoulders with famous names beneath the bare brick ceilings of Buca Mario to enjoy simple, genuine Florentine

The “fiorentina”

Right in the city centre, this colourful Neapolitan school pizzeria with a fun atmosphere does glutenfree and 100% vegan pizzas as well as the traditional variety. Now those with a food intolerance or special dietary needs don’t have to go without a tasty pizza. €. www.pizzaman.it. Via dell’Agnolo 105/107r. T: 055 2480200. Map H4

Pizzaiuolo (Il) Just steps from the Sant’Ambrogio market, this is one of Florence’s oldest pizzerias. Here again the pizza is Neapolitan: wood oven cooked, with quality in-season toppings, mostly sourced from Campania. The rest of the menu also follows Neapolitan tradition, with first courses of fish and local desserts such as babà and pastiera. €. www.ilpizzaiuolo.it. Via dei Macci, 113/r. T: 055 241171. Map I3

Santarpia In a room with blue and brown tiles, the wood oven turns out pizzas made with choice, slow-rising flours, tomatoes from Vesuvius and mozzarella from Campania cheese makers. All accompanied by craft beers or wines from small producers. €. www.santarpia.biz. Largo Pietro Annigoni, 9/c. T: 055245829. Map L3

Buca Mario

Bistecca alla fiorentina is one of the most iconic dishes in Florence cuisine. But be careful: to recognize the original and tell it apart from the hundreds of impostors, there are a few tips you need to know. Cooking a “fiorentina” is a genuine ritual with unwritten rules that the visitor needs to know to avoid falling foul of the restaurant owner, paying over the odds and to make sure they get the real thing. WHAT. This succulent steak is obtained from a specific cut of a young Chianina cow, a part of the loin near the backbone which has a T-bone in the middle. It should be grilled at a very high temperature, so that a fine crust forms rapidly on the meat. All the flavour of this dish depends on the cooking: the meat must be brown on the outside but red, soft and juicy on the inside, hot, but not cooked through. This is the first vital rule: a fiorentina must be eaten rare. HOW. It should also be at least 3 or 4 cms thick, and weigh between 1.2 kg and 1.5 kgs, although bigger steaks are easily available. And here is another sore point. At a restaurant you pay for a fiorentina by weight. An average price to be sure of getting the real thing is around 50 euros a kilo. WITH. The traditional accompaniment is usually cannellini beans, washed down with a glass of Chianti. WHERE. Here are four restaurants where you can’t go wrong: Il Latini (www. illatini.com), Buca Lapi (www.bucalapi. com), Da Burde (www.vinodaburde.com) and Perseus (www.casatrattoria.com/ ristorante-perseus-firenze). (C.Z.)

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DINING

Top hotel restaurants Il Conventino a Marignolle c/o Villa Tolomei Hotel & Resort wVia di Santa Maria a Marignolle, 10. T: 055 3920425 www.ilconventinoamarignolle.com A very romantic view and frescoed rooms in a wonderful 12th-century villa surrounded by a vast estate comprising 20 hectares of olive groves, vineyards and orchards. The kitchen proposes traditional Tuscan and Italian dishes, prepared with seasonal products from the estate or the nearby countryside. Regional specialities typical of Tuscany, as well as the favourites of Italian cuisine.

Bristol Winter Garden

Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Florence. Borgo San Jacopo c/o Hotel Lungarno Borgo San Jacopo, 62/R. T: 055 281661 www.borgosanjacopo.com On the banks of the Arno, with a postcard view of Ponte Vecchio, the Borgo San Jacopo restaurant is the perfect place for a romantic evening. The traditional Italian dishes are reinterpreted using fine quality ingredients by Michelin-starred chef Claudio Mengoni, accompanied by collector wines from a cantina of 900 labels. Bristol Winter Garden c/o Helvetia & Bristol Via dei Pescioni, 8/r. T: 055 2665620 www.starhotelscollezione.com The restaurant is located inside the evocative Winter Garden, covered by the historic Libertystyle glass ceiling. A versatile ambience with classic motifs of 18th-century chinoiserie. Among the proposals of Chef Pasquale D’Ambrosio the inimitable roasted rock octopus and the most traditional Chianina tenderloin, a true tribute to the Tuscan land. The Winter Garden opens into the Tinello, the beating heart of the hotel, designed by Riccardo Barthel, that hosts a variety of gastronomic appointments in different moments of the day. Capriccio Restaurant c/o Hotel Montebello Splendid Via G. Garibaldi, 14. T: 055 27471 www.montebellosplendid.com The restaurant is designed to ensure tranquility, out of the tourist circuit, and to satisfy you with class service and haute cuisine dishes. Quality products and absolute freshness for a couple’s candlelight dinner or a special event.

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Flora & Fauno c/o Hotel Ville sull’Arno Lungarno Cristoforo Colombo 3/5. T: 055 670971 www.hotelvillesullarno.com Facing the river and immersed in the lovely garden of the Hotel Ville sull’Arno, Flora & Fauno offers a peaceful spot with a vintage country feel in which to explore the flavours and aromas of Tuscany. Classic traditional recipes revisited in a contemporary accent. The protagonists on the menu are the local ingredients, juxtaposed sometimes in new and unexpected ways, at other times sticking to tradition. Golden Restaurant c/o Golden Tower Hotel & SPA Piazza Strozzi 11/r. T: 055 287860 www.goldentowerhotel.it The cuisine is based on the authentic flavours of Florentine and Italian wine and food, whose trump card is the guaranteed freshness and quality of the ingredients, chosen personally by the chef. Intimate and refined atmosphere, with high class furnishings and fittings. Il Giardino Restaurant c/o Sina Villa Medici Via Il Prato, 42. T: 055 2771891 www.sinahotels.com A temple of flavours in the sophisticated ambiance of the Sina Hotel Villa Medici, an aristocratic 18th-century palace, recently renovated and restored to its former splendour. The restaurant, with its winter garden which can be opened during the summer months, has been studied in every detail with an exclusive design. Seasonality and territoriality are the basis for Il Giardino’s cuisine, interpreted by chef Luigi Incrocci. The menu presents interesting creations of the best Italian and international tradition, revisited in a modern mood. The philosophy behind the restaurant’s cuisine is to amaze the guests dish after dish. The wine cellar has 60 wine labels.

Il Palagio c/o Four Seasons Hotel Firenze Borgo Pinti, 99. T: 055 2626450 www.ilpalagioristorante.it A sophisticated ambiance with tables both inside and outside, Il Palagio is a Michelin-starred restaurant whose culinary offering looks to Italian and regional tradition with a modern touch. Chef Vito Mollica ventures far beyond the confines of Tuscan cuisine with dishes based on truffles, wagyu beef and three types of caviar. The wine list comprises more than 400 labels, of which 50 are also served by the glass. The hotel also has two other restaurants: La Magnolia and Trattoria al fresco. Irene c/o Hotel Savoy Piazza della Repubblica, 7. T: 055 273 5891 www.roccofortehotels.com Inside the Hotel Savoy, a sumptuous fin-de-siècle building with an extraordinary collection of art works, the restaurant boasts a menu inspired by chef Fulvio Pierangelini, who together with head chef Giovanni Cosmai has designed a series of classic and new versions of Tuscan tradition, using the best local and seasonal products. J.K. Lounge Restaurant & Bar c/o JK Place Firenze Piazza di Santa Maria Novella, 7. T: 055 5321910 www.jkplace.com Here are Tuscan and Italian specialities made with local and seasonal ingredients, preferably organically farmed. In the summer months the elegant dining room, styled as a cosy living room, opens onto the terrace in the marvellous Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. La Cucina del Salviatino c/o Il Salviatino Via del Salviatino, 21- Fiesole (FI). T: 055 9041111 www.salviatino.com Majestic 15th-century villa in the hills of Fiesole, with a captivating view of Florence. Cuisine with strong links to the local territory and the seasons, with a prevalence of meat courses, though there is no shortage of fish and vegetarian dishes. The historic orchard and organic vegetable garden ensure zero food miles.

DINING

Il Conventino a Marignolle

Il Palagio of truffles. Truffles are served all year round: from antipasto to dessert, savour the best varieties of fresh Tuscan truffles, from the Black Truffle and Tuber Borchii, to the more expensive White Truffle and Tuber magnatum Pico. Classic truffle items are flanked by other sophisticated dishes: tagliolino, egg, tartare. The menu also includes classic Tuscan dishes. Se•Sto on Arno c/o The Westin Excelsior Florence Piazza Ognissanti 3. T: 055 27152783 www.westinflorence.com Local flavours and seasonal products for a Tuscan cuisine with a touch of innovation and an unforgettable view of Florence. On the sixth floor of The Westin Excelsior, SE•STO on Arno combines a restaurant, lounge, bar and garden enclosed by sweeping picture windows that make the most of the unique position and breathtaking view over the city.

La Loggia Le Bistrot c/o Villa Cora Viale Machiavelli, 18. T: 055 22 87 90 www.villacora.it The location in itself is extraordinary: an ancient park that dominates the Boboli Gardens, the aristocratic residence that once hosted princess Eugenia, wife of Napoleon III, and the French pianist Claude Debussy, among others. The menu, created by Executive Chef Alessandro Liberatore, offers traditional Tuscan dishes made exclusively with seasonal and for the most part locally sourced products. In winter the restaurant occupies the exquisite oriental Sala Moresca with its frescoed cupola ceiling, while in the summer it moves poolside to the winter garden. Relais Le Jardin c/o Hotel Regency Piazza M. D’Azeglio, 3. T: 055 245247 www.regency-hotel.com Located in the elegant Sala Zodiaco, amidst huge mirrors, candles and a veranda that in summer opens onto the private garden, the restaurant’s chef Sandro Baldini proposes a rich array of Italian and Tuscan dishes (home-made pasta and regional specialities such as truffles, porcini mushrooms, costolette alla fiorentina and others besides) that vary depending on the season’s ingredients, always fresh and of the highest quality.

Ristorante La Chiostrina c/o Bernini Palace Piazza San Firenze, 29 (Piazza della Signoria). T: 055 288621 hotelbernini.duetorrihotels.com One of the most elegant and sophisticated restaurants in the historic centre, housed under a 16th-century portico. The menu draws on the most genuine local flavours, such as the celebrated pappa al pomodoro, for a sensory journey through Tuscan cuisine. Besides regional specialities, the menu also offers international dishes. Ristorante La Loggia c/o Belmond Villa San Michele Via Doccia, 4 - Fiesole (FI). T: 055 5678200 www.belmond.com This imposing 15th-century loggia is worth the visit even just for its magnificent position looking over Florence. Regional Tuscan specialities revisited in a contemporary accent by Executive Chef Alessandro Cozzolino. Savini Tartufi Truffle Restaurant c/o NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa Via Porta Rossa, 19. T: 055 3995913 www.savinitartufi.it/restaurants/savini-firenze Palazzo Bartolini houses one of the three restaurants in Italy run by Savini Tartufi, a family-owned business famed for nearly 100 years for its exclusive selection

Villa La Vedetta c/o Villa La Vedetta Viale Michelangiolo, 78. T: 055 681631 www.villalavedettahotel.com Just moments away from the Piazzale Michelangelo belvedere, with a breathtaking view over Florence, is this discreet and elegant restaurant with a rich wine list, mainly focused on fine Tuscan reds. Local cuisine, with products and recipes typical of the region, so with meat, though there are plenty of vegan and vegetarian options too. Winter Garden by Caino c/o The Saint Regis Florence Piazza Ognissanti, 1. T: 055 27163770 www.wintergardenbycaino.com Immersed in the fin-de-siècle atmosphere of the Hotel Saint Regis Florence, the Michelin-starred restaurant Winter Garden by Caino, was born out of a creative liaison between chef Valeria Piccini and executive chef Gentian Shehi. Their menu shines an innovative spotlight on the wonderful local cuisine, with suggestions from all parts of the globe. It ranges from the classic Tuscan dishes for strong stomachs such as tripe and lampredotto to more refined proposals like lobster tail on cream of topinambour and mandarin. The desserts, too, are a joy for both eyes and palate, in particular their original take on tiramisù.

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PHOTO © TOMASZ KORYL / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Florence at your feet

iazzale Michelangelo is one of the most charming belvederes in Florence, an unmissable terrace on the city; “a not-to-be-missed” for visitors, but also very popular among Florentines. From there your gaze can take in Santa Croce, the Lungarnos, Ponte Vecchio, the Duomo with its dome, Giotto’s Bell Tower, Palazzo Vecchio and, beyond, the hills surrounding Florence. Standing out in the piazza, dedicated to Michelangelo, are bronze reproductions of his famous works: the David and the four allegories from the Medici Chapels of San Lorenzo, the originals of which are conserved in the city. The construction of the square dates back to 1869, as part of the urban planning renewal 36 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

on the occasion of the election of Florence as the capital of Italy. In the design by architect Giuseppe Poggi it was to become a monument to Michelangelo (see photo) and the loggia in Neoclassical style was to act as a museum to gather together all the works by the great artist. In reality this idea was very soon rejected and in 1876 the loggia was turned into a restaurant and a panoramic coffee bar, which are still in operation. For a guaranteed wow effect, or if you are feeling in a romantic mood, go there at sunset. You can reach it by bus or on foot, walking along the Lungarno, or from Piazza Poggi, in the district of San Niccolò, climbing up the charming Rampe del Poggi, a series of flights of steps, grottos and fountains.

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Piazzale Michelangelo, an obligatory destination for tourists visiting the city, but also much loved by Florentines, is the most famous place to observe the city’s panorama. By Chiara Zaccarelli

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ATTRACTIONS & MONUMENTS

www.museicivicifiorentini.comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4

Duomo and Cupola

There has been a bridge at this point of the River Arno ever since before the year one thousand; yet, between floods and reconstructions, the official date of foundation of the current Ponte Vecchio is given as 1345. For the entire Middle Ages the bridge hosted greengrocers’, fishmongers’ and butchers’ shops, who used the river to dispose of their waste in a hurry. At the end of the 16th century, however, when it became the “noble” zone of the city, the goldsmiths and jewellers started to arrive, and they have been there uninterruptedly to this day. To celebrate this history, on prominent display on the bridge is a bust of Benvenuto Cellini, the greatest goldsmith of the Renaissance. Access is gained to the bridge between via Por Santa Maria and Lungarno degli Archibusieri and between Borgo San Jacopo and via de’ Guicciardini. Map F5

Completed in 1436, the religious building, whose official name is “Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore”, is third in terms of dimensions after St. Peter’s in Rome and St Paul’s Cathedral in London. The most important artists of the period participated in its creation (the bell tower is by Giotto), while the famous multi-coloured marble façade dates back to the 19th century. Brunelleschi’s Dome, still the tallest construction in the city, is a symbol known all over the world: it is possible to climb to the top (exclusively on foot) up its 463 steps. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. it. Piazza del Duomo, 3/5-6. T: 055 2302885. Map F2

Battistero Located opposite the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the Baptistery of St. John the Baptist is the building that completes the considerably striking appearance of the square. Its origins are uncertain, but its first official dating is at least in the 12th century. It is characterised by an octagonal plan, lined with a dome of eight segments, covered by a pyramid roof. The outside is decorated with white marble from Carrara and green marble from Prato, characteristics of the Florentine architecture of the Romanesque period. It has three famous doors, sumptuously decorated, and an interior that, with its marble and mosaics, is reminiscent of that of the Pantheon. Used in antiquity for the investiture of knights and poets, its praises are sung by Dante in the Divine Comedy. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza di San Giovanni, 8. T: 055 2302885. Map F2

Campanile di Giotto 84.70 metres high and around 15 wide, a manifestation of 14th-century Florentine Gothic architecture, the Giotto’s bell tower is one of the four main components of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, in piazza del Duomo. Lined with white, red and green marble, like that adorning the Cathedral, the majestic squarebased bell tower, designed by Giotto in 1334, can be visited by climbing no less than 414 stairs up to the top, from where you can enjoy extraordinary views of Brunelleschi’s Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo. it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map F3

Ponte Vecchio

Palazzo Pitti and Giardino di Boboli The symbol of wealth and power, the building was inhabited by the Medici, then by the HabsburgLorraines and, after the Unity of Italy, by the Savoy family. The original architecture dates back to the 15th century and “Pitti” is the surname of its first owner. The building is located on the left bank of the river, at the foot of Boboli Hill. They are one of the most important examples of Italian-style gardens in the world and are considered a genuine open-air museum. Currently they are the site of four different museums: the Treasury of the Grand Dukes, the Palatine Gallery and the Royal Apartments, the Gallery of Modern Art and the Museum of Fashion and Costume. They are connected to Forte di Belvedere. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. T: 055 294883. Map E6

Piazzale Michelangelo Piazzale Michelangelo is the most famous and appreciated panoramic point in Florence, with its views seen all over the world in million of postcards and reproductions. Dedicated to the city’s most famous artist, the square has bronze copies of some of Michelangelo’s most famous sculptures. Access to the Piazzale can be gained by car, along the treelined Viale Michelangelo, or on foot, by climbing the monumental flight of steps known as the “Rampe del Poggi”. Map I7

San Miniato al Monte Not far from Piazzale Michelangelo, stands the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, a medieval religious building situated at one of the highest panoramic points in Florence. The most spectacular access is gained via the monumental flight of steps (which is not advisable, however, for those with problems walking). The outside of the church is decorated with green and white marble, typical of Florentine Romanesque, while a 12th-century mosaic decorates the central part of the façade. www. sanminiatoalmonte.it. Via delle Porte Sante, 34. T: 055 234 2731. Off Map

Mercato Centrale Built at the end of the 19th century, the project was entrusted to Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, who was inspired by Les Halles in Paris. Since 2014, on the first floor of the historic covered market there has been a complex containing dozens of small restaurants, leisure activities and street food options, and this has now become a point of reference for informal but good quality cuisine for both Florentines and tourists. www.mercatocentrale.it. Piazza del Mercato Centrale/Via dell’Ariento. T: 055 2399798. Map F1

Piazza della Signoria This is the central square of Florence, the seat of civil power and social heart of the city. L-shaped, it is located at the centre of medieval Florence south of the Cathedral. Already important in the Roman Age, the square has been gradually enhanced over the centuries; facing onto it are Palazzo Vecchio (see entry), the splendid Loggia della Signoria, the Tribunale della Mercanzia, Palazzo Uguccioni and Palazzo delle Assicurazioni Generali. Also prominent in the square are the Fountain of Neptune and a series of statues of Renaissance origin, representing one of the most important sculptural cycles in the world. The most famous is certainly Michelangelo’s David: the one on display in its original position is a copy, whereas the original is conserved in the Galleria dell’Accademia. Map F4-G4

Palazzo Vecchio Located in piazza della Signoria, today it is the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. It is the finest synthesis of 14th-century civil architecture and is one of the best known civic buildings in the world. Its imposing façade, abounding in history, the charm of its magnificent courtyards and its precious interiors make it a site visited daily by hundreds of people.

Palazzo Pitti and its dynasties

A palace for three dynasties, Palazzo Pitti is an extraordinary building located in the Oltrarno district, at the foot of ther Boboli Hill. The famous Boboli Gardens, which are the park of the palace, take their name from this hill. Palazzo Pitti contains four different museums: the Treasures of the Grand Dukes (ground flloor and mezzanine) with vases made of semi-precious stones, rock crystals, ambers and ivories and an exceptional collection of Oriental porcelains; the Palatine Gallery and Monumental Apartments (noble floor) with the world’s largest concentration of works by Raphael, the Gallery of Modern Art (second floor) hosting an important group of paintings by the Macchiaioli school; the Musem of Fashion and Costume (Palazzina della Meridiana) with 6,000 items from the 18th century to today. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. www.uffizi.it/palazzo-pitti. Piazza de’ Pitti, 1. Map E6

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SIGHTSEEING |

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

Santa Croce Together with Santa Maria Novella, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Franciscan order: a radiant example of Tuscan Gothic, it owes its sober appearance of wooden trusses and terracotta floors to Franciscan charisma. Giotto painted some of his great masterpieces here and the French writer Stendhal experienced that profound artistic agitation that has been known since then as the “Stendhal syndrome”. The basilica contains the monumental sepulchres of Michelangelo, Galileo and Machiavelli. www. santacroceopera.it. Piazza Santa Croce, 16. T: 055 2466105. Map H4

FIRENZECARD

www.firenzecard.it

Santa Maria Novella Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santo Spirito, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Dominican order. Its foundation dates back to the end of the 13th century but work on it continued for centuries, so the church, with its elegant façade by Leon Battista Alberti, is a harmonious synthesis of Gothic and Renaissance styles. The church of Santa Maria Novella hosts exceptional works of art by Masaccio, Giotto, Brunelleschi, Filippino Lippi, Domenico Ghirlandaio and Paolo Uccello. www.smn. it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257. Map D2-E2

Santo Spirito Together with Santa Croce, San Lorenzo and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas”, a point of reference of the Augustinian order. The church has given its name to the entire surrounding neighbourhood, “Borgo Santo Spirito”, located “Oltrarno”, that is on the left bank of the river. A jewel of Renaissance architecture, the church was the last great project by Filippo Brunelleschi. www. basilicasantospirito.it. Piazza Santo Spirito, 30. T: 055 210030. Map D5

San Lorenzo Together with Santa Croce, Santo Spirito and Santa Maria Novella, it is one of the “great basilicas” of Florence, founded, according to the tradition, by Saint Ambrose, the first bishop of Milan, in the fourth century AD: it is therefore one of the oldest churches in the city. Its current appearance, however, is the result of the last major reconstruction work that took place in the 15th century at the wishes of the Medici and under the direction of the great architect Filippo Brunelleschi. Its bare stone façade was intended to receive a rich marble decoration designed by Michelangelo, which unfortunately was never executed. The interior is a masterpiece, also embellished by sculptures by Donatello of rare expressive intensity. www. operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 216634-055 214042. Map F2

MUSEUMS & EXHIBITION SITES Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana Part of the museum complex of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, it is one of the finest examples of the architecture of Michelangelo. Commissioned by Pope Clement VII (a Medici) and completed at the wishes of Grand Duke Cosimo I in 1571, entry is gained by ascending the monumental staircase designed by Michelangelo and built by Bartolomeo Ammannati in 1559. The Library conserves approx. 11,000 Greek, Latin and Oriental manuscripts, often richly miniated, dating from the 5th to the 19th century, in addition to papyruses and rare print editions. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-1.30pm. Full ticket price: Basilica + Medici 38 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

Firenzecard costs €85, allows access to 78 museums and is valid for 72 hours from the initial entry to a museum on the Circuit. It can be purchased online or from one of the authorised sales points in Florence. It includes: • 1 entry ticket + 1 exhibition supplement + 1 priority ticket for each museum on the Firenzecard circuit • Priority access to museums without booking, except for the Dome, Galleria degli Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia, where the booking is required but free. Library €8.50. www.bmlonline.it. Piazza di San Lorenzo, 9. T: 055 2937911. Map F2

Cappella Brancacci The Church and the Convent of Santa Maria del Carmine, dating back to the mid-13th century, house the Brancacci Chapel, a masterpiece that is universally renowned for the frescos of the cycle of Scenes from the Life of St. Peter by Masaccio and Masolino da Panicale. Executed in 1425-1427, they were left unfinished and were eventually completed by Filippino Lippi between 1481 and 1482. You are advised to book (T: 055 2768224-8558). Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun and holidays: 1pm-5pm. Full ticket price: Wed-Fri €6; Sat-Sun-Mon: Brancacci Chapel+Fondazione Salvatore Romano €7. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza del Carmine, 14. T: 055 2768224558-2382195. Map C5

Cappelle Medicee Since 1869 the Medici Chapels have been a state museum, but their history is closely associated with that of the Basilica di San Lorenzo, of which they are part. The museum consists of the New Sacristy, designed and conceived as regards its sculptural furniture by Michelangelo, the Chapel of the Princes, a monumental mausoleum built using semi-precious stones, the Crypt, where the Medici Grand Dukes and their relatives are buried, and the Lorenese Crypt, which contains the funeral monument to Cosimo the Elder. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Closed: 1st, 3rd, 5th Monday and 2nd, 4th Sunday of the month,. Full ticket price: €8. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/2/ medicee | www.operamedicealaurenziana.org. Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 6. T: 055 282984. Map F2

Fondazione Palazzo Strozzi Palazzo Strozzi is one of the finest examples of private architecture of the Renaissance and a dynamic cultural centre that hosts international level exhibitions, ranging from ancient art to the Renaissance, to contemporary art. Always present are an exhibition devoted to Palazzo Strozzi, the café and the museum shop, which looks out onto the Renaissance courtyard, where concerts, performances, contemporary art installations and theatrical plays are organised. Open daily and holidays 10am-8pm, Thurs 10am-11pm. Museum full ticket price: €12. www.palazzostrozzi.org. Piazza Strozzi. T: 055 2645155. Map E3

Forte di Belvedere At the end of the 16th century, Ferdinando de’ Medici commissioned Bernardo Buontalenti to design a fortress on the top of Boboli Hil. The fort currently hosts top-level events and exhibitions. Open exclusively on the occasion of temporary exhibitions. Full ticket price: €3. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. fi.it. Via San Leonardo, 1. Map F7

Galleria degli Uffizi The Gallery occupies the whole of the first and second floors of the large building erected between 1560 and 1580 based on a project by Giorgio Vasari; it is one of the most famous museums in the world on account of its extraordinary collections of ancient sculptures and paintings. The collections of paintings from the 14th century and the Renaissance contain a number of absolute masterpieces: from Giotto to Botticelli, from Leonardo to Canaletto. There are also important collections by German, Dutch and Flemish painters, including Dürer, Rembrandt and Rubens. Open TuesSun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €20. www.uffizi.it. Piazzale degli Uffizi, 6. T: 055 23885.Map F5

Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze The Galleria owes its vast popularity to the presence of a number of sculptures by Michelangelo: the Prisoners, St. Matthew, but above the famous David, transported here from Piazza della Signoria (where it was replaced by a faithful copy) in August 1873. Housed in the adjacent premises are works coming from the Academy of Design, the Academy of Fine Arts and the convents themselves, which were abolished in the Napoleonic Age. And also, the Gipsoteca, or Hall of Models, the collection of Russian icons and musical instruments of the courts of the Medici and Lorena families. Open Tues-Sun 8.15am-6.50pm. Closed on Mondays. Museum full ticket price: €12. www. galleriaaccademiafirenze.beniculturali.it. Via Ricasoli , 58/60. T: 055 2388609/612. Map G2

Museo degli Innocenti The Museum is located in the ancient Spedale degli Innocenti, designed by Brunelleschi. Opened in 1445 as a refuge for abandoned children, today it continues its function as the “Institute of the Innocents”. The museum itinerary combines the documentary and historical-artistic heritage, and in its Gallery hosts

MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS

precious artworks by Sandro Botticelli, Domenico Ghirlandaio, Bartolomeo di Giovanni, Piero di Cosimo, Neri di Bicci and Luca and Andrea della Robbia. EDITOR’S TIP On the terrace the elegant Caffè del Verone offers beautiful panoramic views. Open daily 10am-7pm. www.istitutodeglinnocenti. it. Piazza Santissima Annunziata, 13. T: 055 2037308. Map H1

Museo dell’Opificio delle Pietre Dure An elegant collection of works made of semiprecious stones and multi-coloured marble and scagliola, paintings on stone and oil paintings, instruments, plus an extensive collection of stone samples. The works are displayed in chronological order from the early 17th century to the 1880s. Open Mon-Sat 8.15am-2pm. Closed on Sundays and holidays. www.opificiodellepietredure.it. Via degli Alfani, 78. T: 055 218709. Map H1

Museo di Palazzo Vecchio For over seven centuries Palazzo della Signoria, or Palazzo Vecchio, has been the symbol of the city’s civil power, and today it is still the seat of the Municipal Council of Florence. Built in 1299, over time it has undergone numerous enlargement and transformation projects. Along its labyrinthine routes are rooms and private environments sumptuously decorated by some of the most famous artists of the Florentine Renaissance, with period furnishings and exceptional masterpieces. Open daily, 9am-11pm; Thursdays throughout the year: 9am-2pm. Museum full ticket price: €10. www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza della Signoria. T: 055 2768325. Map G4

Museo di Santa Maria Novella

Museo Giardini di Boboli Stretching out behind Pitti Palace are the marvellous Boboli Gardens. It was the Medici who were first responsible for designing their layout, creating the model of the Italian-style garden that was to become an example for many European courts. Populated by ancient and Renaissance statues, adorned with grottos - including the famous Buontalenti Grotto and large fountains, such as those of Neptune and the Ocean, they are a genuine open-air museum. The terraced area includes the Rococò pavilion known as the Kaffeehaus and the Limonaia, the Lemon House. At the centre of the Rose Garden is the Palazzina del Cavaliere, which houses the Porcelain Museum. Closed first and last Monday of the month. Full ticket price: €10. www.uffizi.it. Piazza Pitti, 1. T: 055 23885. Map E6

Museo Nazionale del Bargello This imposing building, built between the 13th and 14th centuries as the seat of the Podestà and the Council of Justice, was a lowly prison between 1574 and 1858. The Museum conserves a highly important collection of Renaissance sculptures, with masterpieces by Donatello, Luca della Robbia, Verrocchio, Michelangelo, Cellini and Giambologna, and prestigious collections of “lesser arts”. Open daily 8.15am-1.50pm. Museum full ticket price: €9. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/1/bargello. Via del Proconsolo, 4. T: 055 282902. Map G4

Museo Salvatore Ferragamo This is a museum devoted to the history of the Ferragamo company, to the life of its founder, Salvatore Ferragamo, and to his creations. Every year it organises exhibitions that investigate the

PHOTO © STOCKPHOTOVIDEO / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

The complex of Santa Maria Novella includes the 13th-century Dominican Basilica and the monumental cloisters. The church contains extraordinary works such as Giotto’s Crucifix, Masaccio’s Holy Trinity, Brunelleschi’s Crucifix, the Tornabuoni Chapel by Ghirlandaio and his workshop and the Strozzi

Chapel by Filippino Lippi. The cloisters present rare examples of the Florentine painting of the 14th and 15th centuries. Open: Mon-Thurs 9am-7pm. Full ticket price: €7.50. www.smn.it, www.museicivicifiorentini. comune.fi.it. Piazza Stazione, 4 - piazza Santa Maria Novella, 18. T: 055 219257- 055 282187. Map E3

| SIGHTSEEING

relationship between fashion and art. The museum is situated in Palazzo Spini Feroni (1289) – which was purchased by Ferragamo in 1938 to make it the headquarters for his company and his workshop – and in its rooms it displays masterpieces of Florentine art from the 17th and 18th centuries. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Full ticket price €6. www.ferragamo. com/museo. Palazzo Spini Feroni, Piazza Santa Trinita, 5/r. T: 055 3562-846/466. Map E4

Museo Stefano Bardini A connoisseur of art and an unbridled merchant in antiquities, Stefano Bardini (1836-1922) donated his private collection to Florence, where it was displayed in the Neo-Renaissance building that housed his antiquarian gallery. There are over 2000 items there, including sculptures, paintings and objects of applied arts, from ancient art to that of the 18th century, with a major presence of works from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Open Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon 11am-5pm. Full ticket price €6. www.museicivicifiorentini.comune. fi.it. Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie). T: 055 2342427.Map G6

Orsanmichele A unique, extraordinary monument, in which civil and religious functions are combined. Built as a granary, in the mid-14th century it was consecrated for Christian worship. On the ground floor the Church houses a grandiose marble tabernacle by Orcagna. The originals of the numerous sculptures (works by famous Florentine artists from the 15th and 16th centuries) that adorned the niches outside on the four sides of the imposing stone cube are conserved in the museum on the first floor. On the second floor you can enjoy a fine panoramic view of Santa Maria del Fiore. Classical music concerts are held here. Church (ground floor): open daily 10am-4.50pm. Free entry. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it/musei/3/ orsanmichele. Via dell’Arte della Lana, 1. T: 055 2388606. Map F4

Santa Maria del Fiore The monuments of the complex of Santa Maria del Fiore, the symbol in Florence throughout the world, are a single large open-air museum, a unique combination of art, faith and history located in the city’s main square, the religious, historical and artistic centre of Florence. The Duomo (Santa Maria del Fiore), Brunelleschi’s Dome, the Baptistery of Saint John, Giotto’s Bell tower , together with the Crypt of Santa Reparata and the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo are all visitable with a single ticket that can be purchased online (full price €18), with prior booking necessary for the Dome. www.ilgrandemuseodelduomo.it. Piazza del Duomo. T: 055 2302885. Map G2-G3

Villa Bardini and Gardens

MUSEO DEL BARGELLO The National Museum of the Bargello is located inside the Palazzo of the same name from the 13th century, the oldest public building in Florence. Its collection of Renaissance statues is considered among the most significant at world level: it in fact includes masterpieces by Michelangelo, Donatello, Ghiberti, Cellini, Giambologna, Ammannati and other important sculptors, in addition to a large applied arts collection. www.bargellomusei.beniculturali.it

The most beautiful view of Florence earned it the name “Villa Belvedere”. Today Villa Bardini, a place rich in history, art and culture, has become an exhibition centre, which, along with temporary exhibitions, also hosts the Pietro Annigoni Museum (www.museoannigoni.it), dedicated to the great realist painter, and the Roberto Capucci Museum (www.fondazionerobertocapucci.com, currently being restructured). In addition, there is also a Michelinstarred restaurant inside it, La leggenda dei Frati (see “Dining”), and surrounding it are four hectares of woodland, an Italian-style garden and a kitchen garden and orchard. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on Mondays. Full ticket price €8. Full ticket price €10 (with Boboli Gardens and the Porcelain Museum). www.villabardini.it. Costa San Giorgio, 2 Via dei Bardi, 1/r. T: 055 20066233. Map G6-G w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 39

PHOTO © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ESSENTIALS

The museum city Within its historic centre (declared a “UNESCO world heritage site” en bloc) Florence contains a unique concentration of historical and artistic attractions. Here is some guidance for you to enjoy it.

lorence’s labyrinthine plan, made up of alleyways and sidestreets, derives from its medieval origins. Yet the city’s period of maximum splendour was undoubtedly the Renaissance, of which countless masterpieces remain. With less than four hundred thousand inhabitants and covering an area of little more than a hundred square kilometres, Florence is practically impossible to tour by car, and in fact the centre is to a large extent prohibited to vehicle traffic. We suggest, if possible, that you tour it on foot, to best enjoy its beauties, but you can also count on quite an efficient public transport network (which, however, is severely limited during the nighttime hours, so take care after midnight). Taxis and bikes can reach all the strategic points, whereas private cars are usually 40 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

only allowed into the centre to load and unload your luggage at your hotel (but always ask your concierge, also so you can receive indications of where the car parks are located in the centre). To find your way around the city, it is a good idea to keep well in mind that Florence is developed along the two banks of the River Arno. All the roads that run alongside the river, on both sides, are called “Lungarno” and it is only the second part of the name that changes. Lungarno degli Archibugieri, for example, is right in the centre: it is there that the Vasari Corridor passes and the Uffizi looks out over it. The whole area on the other side of the river, to the south, is called “Oltrarno” by the Florentines. It was originally outside the historic centre, but today it contains important attractions, such as Pitti Palace, the

Boboli Gardens and Borgo Santo Spirito, the city’s most bohemian neighbourhood. For decades the Florentine naming system has had a peculiarity that is gradually disappearing, but some traces of it can still be found: the civic numbers, in fact, were divided between “black”, which denoted he residences, and “red”, for businesses. Some red numbers still remain, so bear that in mind. Finally, some suggestion for improving your visit. The Tuscan regional capital is one of the cities with the highest tourist density on the entire planet: wherever you wish to visit, book in advance (or have them book for you at your hotel). You should also bear in mind that the serious overcrowding takes place around mid-morning, so if you are an early bird then that could give you a significant advantage.

FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/FLORENCE

Emergency

UNIQUE | FAST TRAINS NETWORK FROM FLORENCE

AMBULANCE – T: 118 POLICE – T: 055 3285 FIRE SERVICE – T: 115 PASSPORTS Questura di Firenze, Via Zara, 2.

T: 055 49771.

Taxi TAXI FIRENZE 4242.IT T: 055 4242 - www.4242.it TAXI FIRENZE 4390 T: 055 4390 - www.4390.it

www.apptaxi.it/firenze: available for iOS and Android, it has more than 4045 licensed taxi drivers. Fixed taxi fares to airports From Amerigo Vespucci Airport to Florence (city centre): €22 (plus baggage supplements and extra fee for night or holiday travel). From Florence (city centre) to Pisa: €140 / Bologna: €180 / Rome Fiumicino: €550 / Milan Linate: €550 / Milan Malpensa: €650

Trains The most important railway station is Santa Maria Novella (SMN), in the central Piazza della Stazione, and regional, interregional, high-speed and international trains arrive at and depart from there. Florence offers fast-track access to major cities across Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Bologna: 35 min • Rome: 1 hour 20 min • Milan: 1 h 40 min • Venice: 2 hours 5 min • Naples: 2 hours 52 min • Turin: 2 hours 55 min TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021.

www.trenitalia.com. ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020.

www.italotreno.it.

Airports AEROPORTO DI FIRENZE PERETOLA “AMERIGO VESPUCCI” (FLR) (4 km from the centre of Florence). The airport, to the North-West of Florence, lies between the “Firenze Nord” exit from the freeway and Florence’s industrial area near Prato. Call centre T: 055 30615. www.aeroporto.firenze.it • Connections to the airport VolaInBus Shuttle Service (www.fsbusitalia.it) from S.M. Novella Station (Piazza della Stazione). Every 30 min, travel time approx. 30’ (5am-8pm) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). Tickets can be purchased on board, at the BusItalia-Sita Nord ticket office near the S.M. Novella Station (Via S. Caterina da Siena) or at ATAF ticket offices (www.ataf.net). One-way ticket: €6 - round trip ticket: €10. AEROPORTO DI PISA “GALILEO GALILEI” (PSA) - (80 km from the centre of Florence). Call centre T: 050 849300. www.pisa-airport.com • Connections to Florence-S.M. Novella Station and Aeroporto di Firenze Peretola Shuttle Services: 1) Terravision – One-way ticket: €4.99 - round trip ticket: €9.98. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.terravision.eu 2) Autostradale – T: 02 30089000. One-way ticket: €7.50 - round trip ticket: €13.50. Every 30 or 60 min, travel time approx. 70’ (9am-midnight) and approx. 1 h (10pm-midnight). www.autostradale.it

Getting around Florence ATAF - Azienda Trasporti dell’area Fiorentina/ Local Public Transport Company - www.ataf.net Infoline daily 6am-9pm. Green Line T: 800 424500; from mobile: T: 199 104245. ATAF Point-Customer Care Railway Station Firenze S.M. Novella – Offices no. 8 and no. 9. Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-8pm. Lost and Found on ATAF vehicles: Mon-Wed-Fri 9am12.30pm; Tues-Thurs 2.30pm-4pm. Via Veracini, 5 (int. 5). T: 055 334802. Ordinary ticket (€1.20) valid for 90 minutes. Can be used on buses, trams or trains. Ticket 2x90’ (€2.40). Ticket 4x90’ (€4.70). Daily ticket: 24-hour ticket (€5). 3-day ticket (€12). 7-day ticket (€18). Daily Family: one-day ticket for one family of 4 (€6). Nottetempo Ticket: one-day ticket from 10pm to 3am). NEW A further step in the digital transformation of Florence’s public transport: today you can travel on buses (ATAF, Volainbus and The Mall) by paying fast and safe with your debit/credit/pre-paid contactless cards. The Tramway T1 “Leonardo” connects S.M. Novella Station in Florence to Scandicci (www.gestramvia.com). The new line Tramway T2 “Vespucci” connecting the Airport with S.M. Novella Station has been activated on February 2019. Electric buses move around the historic centre and also reach the pedestrian areas (C1-C2-C3-D lines). WHERE TIP Route C1 is convenient for visiting the most important museums in Florence.The entire historic centre

of Florence (which is approximately the part located within the 19th- century ring-roads or viali, which is a protected UNESCO heritage site) is a “Zona a Traffico Limitato” (ZTL), or restricted traffic zone. Bicycles, electric vehicles, motorcycles and scooters are allowed to enter.

Tourist Information INFOPOINT FIRENZE TURISMO www.firenzeturismo.it 1. Train Station Infopoint > Piazza della Stazione, 4. T: 055 212245. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Multilingual tourist information and sales point for Firenzecard. 2. Tourist Information Office > Via C. Cavour, 1/R. T: 055 290832. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm. Free brochures and complaints service. Sales point for Firenzecard. 3. Bigallo Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 288496. Open Mon-Sat 9am-7pm; Sun and holidays 9am-2pm. Quick information service. 4. Airport Infopoint > Piazza San Giovanni, 1. T: 055 315874. Open daily 9am-7pm. TOURIST CONTACT CENTRE – T: 055 000 Info about services for tourists, exhibitions, events, opening times of museums, how to move around the city. Available daily 9am-7pm in Italian, English, French, German and Spanish. Via email (touristinfo@comune.fi.it) you can ask for information in any language, including Portuguese, Chinese, Japanese, Russian and Arabic (answers within 24 hours). w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 41

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Università degli Studi di Firenze

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Museo dell'Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore

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Centro Lingustico Rotonda del Brunelleschi

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V.B ON IZ

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Cimitero degli Inglesi

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Galleria dell’Accademia

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Camping w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 43

Milano Map



Malpensa Airport (45km)

Rho Fairgrounds 12

11 San Siro

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3 14

LEGENDA

SHOPPING AREAS

1 Duomo-Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 2 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II

44 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

3 Via Montenapoleone - Quadrilatero 4 Via Dante

5 Via Torino 6 Brera-Solferino

7 Garibaldi-Corso Como 8 Corso Buenos Aires

9 Corso XXII Marzo 10 Navigli-Porta Ticinese

8 3

6 4

2 1



Linate City Airport (6 km)

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LEONARDO DISTRICT

w w w.wh e re t ravel e r. com 45

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Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli)

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Palazzo Querini-Dubois

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10 MINUTE HOTEL’S CO BOATS FRO 46 W H E R E F LO R E N C E I M AY 2020

I 15

AEROPORTO MARCO POLO

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Museo Di Torcello Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta Chiesa di Santa Fosca

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rdia

CORDONI DEI STELLA CALLE

SQUERO DEL CALLE

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INO

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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

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Festival Danza Orientale e Danza del Ventre Venezia

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Hotel Excelsior Venice

LI MB

VIA

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Sant'Elena VI A

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see page10

1 BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

7 GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA

12 THE GHETTO

2 PALAZZO DUCALE

8 SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO

13 MURANO

3 CANAL GRANDE

9 CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE

14 BURANO

Teatro Verde

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Stadio Pier Luigi Penzo

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CAR

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DEL

MAGAZZIN

DEGLI

Moise

DEL TRAGHETTO

MARTIRI

San

CALLE

RIDOTTO

CALLE DEL PESTRIN

TREDICI

Rio

CALLE

VALLARESSO

CALLE

SARTOR

NUOVE

CASTELLO

L’ANZOLO

CALLE

C. DEL

ASCENSIONE

SALIZADA

S. Zaccaria (Pieta')

Spirito Santo

CELESTIA

DONA

CALLE

VONI

S. Zaccaria (Danieli)

CASTELLO CASE

DELLA

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DUE POZZI

CALLE

ZATTERE

BIAGIO

Sant'Eufemia

ANTONIN

Arsenale

LAVRANERI

CALLE

GATE

LARGA

SAN

SESTIERE

FONDAMENTA CALLE

CORTE CAMPO DE LA VIDA SANTA TERNITA

DE L’OGIO

DRASI

SCHIA

SAN

CAMPO BANDIERA E MORO

San Giovanni Battista in Bragora

100 m

FONDAMENT A

CALLE

DE LE

DEGLI

NUOVE

SECONDO SAGRADO

CAMPO DELLA CELESTIA CORTE DEL MORION

CORTE DELLE GATE

CASE

RAMO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CONFRATERNITA

CORTE SACCA

CALLE DEI FURLANI

SALIZADA

CALLE TERAZZERA CALLE DE LA PIETA’

Santa Maria della Pietà

S. Marco (Vallaresso)

Ca' Giustinian

PONTE

CALLE

San Francesco della Vigna

FRANCESCO

SANTA GIUSTINA

San Giovanni di Malta

CALLE

R I VA

SAN

SALIZADA

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA

CALLE ERIZZO

CALLE

TODESCHI

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

ZON

CALLE SAN LORENZO

CALLE LION

CAMPOIELLO DE LA FRATERNA

San Giorgio dei Greci

San Zaccaria

CALLE BOSELLO

Stazio

CALLE

San Lorenzo

Rio San Lorenzo

DEI PRETI

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

VIN CALLE DEL

Palazzo

FONDAMENTA DEL VIN

C. DEI

A N M

CALLE

DE L’OSMARIN FONDAMENTA

SOTO E CORTE NOVA

Rio Del

VERONA

nde Canal Gra

CAMPO SANTA GIUSTINA DETTO DE BARBARIA

DEL CAFETIER

FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO

GIUFFA

SEVERO

RUGA

SAN

MINELLI

Palazzo Ducale

ZORZI

CAMPO SAN PROVOLO

CALLE

CAMPO SAN LORENZO

FONDAMENTA

DIETRO

Santa Maria del Pianto

LATERANO

CORTE NOVA

SALIZADA

C. PIANTON

SCHIAVONI

DEGLI

P U N TA S A B B I O N I

NOVE

DE LE TOLE

FONDAMENTA GIOVANNI

CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO

BORGOLOCO SAN LORENZO

MEZO

DE CALLE

CORTE DEL POZZO ROVERSO

CASTELLO

ORBI

MARCO

CANONICA DE LA

SESTIERE

BARBARIA

DEI

FABBRI

Museo Correr

RIVA

CORTE

NUOVA

REMEDIO

San Giovanni Novo CAMPO SAN ZUANE NOVO

SAN

Palazzo Querini Stampalia

CAMPIELLO QUERINI STAMPALIA

DEL

LARGA

CALLE

SAN

ZZA

NTA

Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto

CORTE TREVISAN

CAMPIELLO SANTA MARIA FORMOSA

Santa Maria Formosa Palazzo Grimani

BANDE

CORTE

CALLE DEL FIGHER

CALLE

PIAZZETTA DEI LEONCINI

Basilica di San Marco

LE VIGNOLE

FONDAME

San Lazzaro dei Mendicanti

Ospedale SS. Giovanni e Paolo

Basilica dei Santi Giovanni e Paolo

CAMPO SANTI GIOVANNI E PAOLO

FORNO

CALLE

DELL’OROLOGIO

CALLE

S. SAMUELE

PESTRIN

CAVALLETTO

ORSEOLO

DEL

PIA

DE LE

FRUTARIOLI

CALLE

SPECHIERI

PISCINA

VERONA

DE LA SACA

CAMPIELLO SAN CATALDO

CAMPIELLO SAN GERARDO

G. GALLINA

DEL

CORTE DEL PRESTRIN

CALLE

DEL FORNO

BALONI

CAPPELLO BIANCA CALLE

CARRO

PRIMO RAMOCONTARINA CORTE

San Moisè

SPADARIA

MARZARIA

CROSERA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

DEL

DEI

MANDOLA

AVVOCATI

CALLE

LARGA

DE LE ERBE

FONDAMENTA DEI PRETI

CORTE DEL MONDO NUOVO

TASCA

CORTE

C.DEI

CORTE TORRETTA

CORTE DELLE ANCORE

Bacino Orseolo

FREZZERIA

CAMPO SAN MOISE’

CORTE BAROZZI

ZULIAN

GALLO

CALLE

TRAGHETTO

TERÀ

DEL

RIO

CALLE

MOISE’

XXII MARZO

O MUSSATO CALLE

San Giuliano

SAN

PIGNOLI

DEI

C. DE LE COLONNE

SA PISCINA

LUCATELLO

MARZARIA

DEI

CALLE

REDIVO

CALLE

CALLE GOLDONI

TRAGHETTO

CALLE

DEL

PISCINA

LA CHIESA

DRIO

LARGA

CAMPIELLO CONTARINI

MEZO

GRAGOLINA LE COLONNE DE

REMER

CALLE

FABBRI

CALLE

CAPITELLO

BALOTE

CASSELERIA

DEI

GRIMANI

CALLE

PISCOPIA

CAVALLI

CARBON

CALLE

Salvador

CALLE

CORNER

DEL

San

CALLE

Rio

CORTE MICHIEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA DEL GIGLIO

DEL

TAGIAPIERA LE

LIO

BEMBO

SAN

CALLE CAMPO SAN GALLO

BERLENDIS

CORTE NOVA

CALLE GABRIELI

DRIO CALLE LE SCUOLE

CALLE

SAN

CALLE

MADONA

San Fantin CALLE

RIO TERRÀ SAN VIO

STRAZZE TERÀ RIO

VENEZIA

NOVE

CALLE

CORTE CORTESE

CAMPIELLO STELLA CAMPIELLO WIDMANN

CALLE

LICINI

CORTE GRAGOLINA

DELLE

BOTERI

VARISCO

CASTELLI

SALIZADA

DE LA

FORNO

RAMO

DEL

MARZARIA

PIOMBO

D. PALLE

CORTE

RUBBI

MAGAZEN

FRUTARIOL

CAMPO DEL VOLTO

C. LARGA

CORTE

CORTE C.DEL TRAMONTIN

C.DE

LIO

Santa Maria della Fava o della Consolazione

CAMPO

DE LA FAVA

CALICE

Spirito Santo CALLE

DEI LAVRANERI

San Gerardo

BIAGIO

DEI

CORTE DEL POZETO DE ORO

CAMPIELLO DEL PESTRIN

CALLE

CALLE DEL C.MARTINENGO

SAN

GALIAZZO

C. DEL

SALVADOR

O DEL

CALLE

DOLERA

DEL

Teatro la Fenice

San Gregorio

DEL FORNO

LUCA

DEL

CORTE DEL FORNO VECCHIO

MARCO

CAFETIER

CAOTORTA

Santa Maria del Giglio

CHIESA

CALLE DEL NAVARO

FONDAMENTA

SAN

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

LARGA

V O LT

CAMPIELLO DE LA MADONNA

WIDMANN

Santa Maria dei Miracoli

MIRACOLI

SALIZADA

SAN

COCCO

CALLE CALLE

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA CARITA’

LE D EL

DEL M ORA

C O RT E B ATA G I A

DEI

GIAZZO

CAMPO

SAN LIO

C. DEL

SABION

San Salvador

TEATRO

CALLE

CALLE DEL BASTION

DELLA

SALIZADA

SANTO

DEL CALLE

LOCANDE

CALLE

CAMPIELLO DEI CALEGHERI

Palazzo Corner della Ca’Granda

FOND. VENIER DAI LEON

CAPPUZZI

TEATRO

ASSASSINI

CALLE

CAMPO

SAN BORTOLOMIO

CORTE DEL

MARZARIA

CALLE

CORTE DEL

Palazzo Nervi Scattolin CALLE

RIO

Teatro Malibran

CALLE

GALIZZI

STURION

DEI

DEL

DEI PUTI

CALLE

SPIRITO

TERÀ

RIO

MAZZINI

CORTE

SAN SALVADOR

CAMPO MANIN

PATERNIN

MANDOLA

Collezione Peggy Guggenheim

CAMPO DI SAN VIO

CALLE

ZATTERE

CINQUE

SAN CALLE

Canal Grande

C.SANT'AGNESE

FONDAMENTA ALLO

CAMPIELLO DELLA CHIESA

TEATRO

CALLE

DEL

San Maurizio CAMPO SAN MAURIZIO

Giudecca Hilton

DEI

Santo Stefano

Accademia

CAMPO DI SANT'AGNESE

Palazzo Grimani

CALLE

CAL RAMO

S.Canciano

SAN CANZIAN

FONTEGO

PIO

LARGA

CAMPO SANT’ANZOLO

BOTEGHE

CAMPO PISANI

CAMPO DELLA CARITÀ

AI GESUATI

CALLE

CALLE DEL MAGAZEN

CALLE

VOLTI

VENIER

CORTE DEL REMER

FRUTARIOL

CAMPIELLO SAN CANCIANO

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

C. DEL

SALIZZADA

Rialto

Teatro Carlo Goldoni

San Beneto San Luca

CAMPO SANTO STEFANO

Ponte dell'Accademia Gallerie dell'Accademia NANI

nde G ra

SAN

CROSERA

CALLE CALLE

BARBA

CAMPIELLO VALMARANA

CORTE SECONDA DEL MILION

Casa di Fontego Marco Polo dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto

TOSCANA

SAMUELE

ZEN

SARTORI

TERÀ

CAMPIELLO DELLA CASON

CAMPO SAN GIACOMETO

San Giacomo di Rialto

CAMPO RIALTO NUOVO

Fontego Dolfin Manin Palazzo Rialto Rava (Palazzo Cavalli) CALLE

DEL

CAMPIELLO SAN VIDAL

CAMPO DEI GESUITI

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

RIO

SALIZADA

San Giovanni Grisostomo

CAMPO CESARE BATTISTI GIÀ DELLA BELLA VIENNA

San Vidal

CATENE

Chiesa dei Gesuiti

CATERINA

PRIULI

CALLE

DONZELA

LEZZE

CARROZZE

DEL PISTOR

NOVE

CALLE

SANTA

S.ANDREA

FONDAMENTA

NOVA

PESCARIA

San Silvestro

CAMPO DE SAN SILVESTRO

Palazzo Fortuny

NARISI

FALIER

CALLE

FONDAMENTE

FONDAMENTA

FOND.

CAMPO DE LE ERBE

Santa Sofia

STRADA

CAMPO DELLA

FOND.

CALLE

LONGO

RAVANO

DEL

CALLE

Abazia della Misericordia D

TRAPOLIN

STUA

BECARIE

enzera

CALLE

CAMPO DE LA

ORESI

Bacino

DEL

RUGHETA

DEI

e Scom

Ca Santi Apostoli na l G Cà d'Oro ra nd Chiesa Evangelica e Luterana

DEL SOL

PARANGON

CALLE DELL'OLIO

Canal

FONDAMENT

VENDRAMIN

CAMPIELLO DEL SANSONI

CAMPIELLO

CAMPOIELLO DE LA PASINA

CORTE DELL’ALBERO

Palazzo Loredan

Zattere

VAPORETTO

MUTI

RUGA

ZATTERE

DEL

CA'

San Felice

CA’

BOTA

Sant’Aponal PERDON

CALLE

CAMPO SAN BENETO CALLE

SALIZADA

CALLE

Santa Maria del Rosario Sant’Agnese Chiesa di Santa Maria della Visitazione

CALLE

DE LA

CARAMPANE

S.Silvestro

SESTIERE

S. Samuele

FONDAMENTA

CA LLE

A A

San Cassiano CALLE DE

DEL

DI SAN MARCO

VECCHIA

Palazzo Grassi San Samuele

CALLE

FONDAMENT

CAMPO

CALLE

al Can

CA’ CORTE

Ca' Rezzonico

San Trovaso

dell'Orto

MORI

CAMPIELLO SAN MARZIALE

CARAMPANE

TERÀ

Sant'Angelo

CALLE

CAMPO SAN TROVASO

Santa Fosca

d'Arte Moderna Ca’ D’Oro

RIO

Palazzo Querini-Dubois

Palazzo Giustinian Persico

RAMO

CAMPO DEI SQUELINI

BONLINI

TIOZZI

SAN CASSAN

S. Toma' SX

CALLE BERNARDO

OGNISANTI

ALE

DEI

San Tomà

CALLE

NIE

L’AGNELLA

CAMPIELLO DEI MELONI

CAMPO SAN TOMÀ

FONDAMENTA

PONTE

.DA

CALLE

FABBRICHE

SPORCA CALLE PAZIENZE DE LE

FOND.

S.Stae

CORTE DEL TIOZZI

Palazzo Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo

Ca' Rezzonico

ZATTERE

DEI

À D E

SCOAZZERA DE LA

LE PAZIENZE

DE OGNISANTI

Misericordia

FO de Servi N

TER

CORTE DEL TEATRO

CAMPO SAN APONAL

BEATE GIULIANA

SACCA

FISOLA

LARGA

della

Rio

San Stae Ca' Pesaro Galleria Internazionale

A AB RN BA AN A S NG LU LLE CA

FONDAMENTA

Rio

CALLE CA’BONVINCINI

CAMPIELLO ALBRIZZI

CROSERA

San Barnaba

INI ARD HER A G ENT DAM FON

La Maddalena

SCALETER

CAMPO SAN POLO

CALLE

L’ASEO

FODAMENTA

CALLE CHIESA

CALLE

DEL

TINTOR

C. DE

SE NA

DEL

CAMPIELLO DE LA VIDA

Chiesa di Ognissanti

CALLE DE LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN BESAGIO

S. Basilio

DELLA

ICO

TENTOR

BOLDO

CONTARINI

CAMPO FONDAMENTA DEI MORI

TRON

DEL

CAMPO SANTA MARIA MATER DOMINI

SAN

SOTOPORTEGO

CALLE

RIO TERA’

BARI

PRETI

RENIER

FOMO

CANAL RIO TERA’

FOND. SAN SEBASTIAN

DEI

TOLENTINI

SEBASTIAN

LARGA

Chiesa Rettoriale di S. Polo

CAMPO DEI FRARI

MORETTI

DEI

SAN

se A ric or dia

Santa Maria Mater Domini Palazzo Grioni

MEZO

CAMPO

SAN BOLDO

CAMPO SANT’AGOSTINO

ZANE

CAMPO SAN STIN

TOMÀ

CALLE

I CALLE ORSETT

VECCHIO

CHI DEL

CAMPO DEI CARMINI

FONDAMENTA BESAGIO

MIS

E DEL PISTO

Casino S.Marcuola di Venezia Museo Civico Di Storia Naturale

L’ISOLA

OCHE CALLE

SAN POLO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Madonna

NOVA

DEI

VECCHIO BERGAMAS

SIMEONE

SAN

della

STRADA

DE LA VIDA

CALLE

TERÀ

CALLE TRAGHETTO

SAN

TRAGHETTO CALLE

GUARDIANI

Carmini

Santa Maria dei Carmini

DEI

CAMPO SAN PANTALON

CALLE

CAMPO DI SANTA MARGHERITA

ISOLA SAN GIORGIO IN ALGA

Marco Polo 6 deiFontego Tedeschi

NUOVA

CALLE SAN

PANTALON

San Pantalon

NUOVO

CALLE

del

CALLE

LUNGA

RIO

ROSSA

SALIZADA

DORSODURO

TINTORETTO

DORSODURO

San Sebastiano CALLE DIETRO AI MAGAZZINI

A E M

CALLE

BASEGO

Rio dei Tolentini

RAGUSEI

FONDAMENTA

Rio

TERA’

RAMO

CAMPO SAN GIACOMO DALL’ORIO

CALLE

RIO

Basilica dei Frari

CALLE

RIO

CAMPO SAN ZAN DEGOLA’

San Giacomo dall'Orio

OCHE

LATTE

San Rocco

Muneghete

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

BRIATI

CAMPO DRIO IL CIMITERO

CAMPO SAN SEBASTIAN

DIA

CAZZIOLA

CAMPO DE L’ANZOLO RAFAEL

CALL

RIO DIETRO TERÀ LA CHIESA

CAMPO SAN MARCUOLA

Palazzo San Zan Gidoni Degola

RUGA BELA

C.VENZATO

LACA CALLE DE LA LACA

CAMPO SAN ROCCO SAN

FONDAMENTA

RIELO

LORENZO

METO

Angelo Raffaele

LARDONI

San Marcuola

DEL REMER

RIO

FONDARIA

CIMESIN

Giudecca Hilton

CALLE

SACCA SAN

CAMPO S.MARIA NOVA

i ia e

CALLE

LER

EONARDO

CAMPIELLO

CALLE CAZZA

CALLE SAVIO

RUGA VECCHIA

CAMPO NAZARIO SAURO

A GARZOTTI FONDAMENTA CALLE ORSETTI

RAMO

CIMESIN

SALIZADA

SAN MICHELE

DELL'ORTO

SAN LEONARDO

San Leonardo

BARI LISTA

FONDAMENT

CALLE

C. CAMPAZZO DE

CALLE

RAMO

MINOTTO

Magazen

CALLE CONTARINA

FONDAMENTA

C. SAN

SAL IZAD

DE L’OGIO

S. L R I O T E R À CAMPO

BIASIO

RIVA FONDAMENTA

San Simeone Profeta

CANAL CORTE

LUNA

Rio

Madonna dell'Orto

MADONNA

Hundertwasser' Garden

San Giovanni Grisostomo

DEI FONTEGHERI

CALLE

CALLE SAN BASILIO

FONDAMENTO

C AL

LA RG A

CALLE

AI MAGAZZINI CALLE DIETRO

CAMPIELLO DEL VAPORETTO

Santi Apostoli

NICOLO’

San Nicolò dei Mendicoli

CALLE

Istituto Universitario Di Architettura

CALLE ORTI

angelica ana

te alto

SAN

MATTA DI CA’

CALLE CASE NUOVE

Convento Delle Figlie Del Cuore Di Gesu'

. S.A

MARTA

SANTA FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO LONGHI

CALLE

CERERI

L' ARZERE

Rio Nuovo RIZZI

PROCURATIE

DEI FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO P I AV E

FONDAMENTA

nde l Gra Cana Riva de Biaso

CAMPO SAN SIMON GRANDO

Palazzo Soranzo Capello

Soranzo Cappello

San Nicola da Tolentino

PENSIERI

MADONA

FO ND

DEI

FONDAMENTA

TERÀ

FONDAMENTA

SPAGNA

TERÀ

Giardino di Palazzo

DEI AMAI

CALLE

Del

NUOVE

CAMPO

PAPADOPOLI

TABACCHI

FONDAMENTA

NUOVA

FON.

CALLE

VENEZIA

RIO

CALLE

CASE CORTE

FONDAMENTA

Rio

ER LE P

SAVORGNAN

San Geremia DI LISTA RIO

SCALZI

Ferrovia

CROCE

C. LAVADORI SANT'ANDREA

TABACCHI

CAL

FONDAMENTA

MISERICOR

LIBERTÀ

TERÀ

Museo Ebraico

Palazzo Nani

Palazzo Labia Parco Savorgnan Salone del Tiepolo

DELLA

Giardino Papadopoli

PIAZZALE ROMA RIO

FONDAMENTA

INE

Rio

PONTE

CROCE FABBRICA

CANNAREGIO

FONDAMENTA

San Simeon Piccolo

Ferrovia

Sant'Andrea

SANT'ANDREA

Sant'Alvise

CAMPO S A N T ' A LV I S E

Sensa FO

San Girolamo

Ponte degli Scalzi DEI

TERÀ

CAMPO DI GHETTO NUOVO

CAVALLETT

P.le Roma

Ponte della Costituzione FO.

RIO

People Mover Venezia

Santa Maria di Nazareth

People Mover Venezia

S A N TA

CALLE

Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia

ITTICO

CAMPO SAN GEREMIA

PRIULI

MERCATO

CANNAREGIO

CALLE

TRONCHETT

DIREZIONE

N G IR

di Cannaregio

CAMPO SAFFA

NOVA DEL

LLO

RIO TERÀ CAZZA

Canale

GIOBBE

San Giobbe

ISOLA

TRONCHETTO

di Sant'Alvise

CASE

CALLE

FO EN

DEI

B AT

CALLE

MUNEGHE

FORNER

DEL

FONDAMENTA

SAN

CAMPIELLO DE LA LAVANDER

NUOVA ISOLA DEL TRONCHETTO People Mover Venezia

Parcheggio Bus Turistici

della

COLETTI FO

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

Rio

CARLO

SEBASTIANO

NUOVE

Rio

FOND.A

Ponte dei Tre Archi

FONDAMENTA

BRAGADIN

PENITENTI

VENIER FONDAMENTA

LARGA

CANNAREGIO

FONDAMENTA

CALLE

FONDAMENTA

CAMPIELLO DEL SCARLATTO

SESTIERE

TA’

FOSCARI

CALLE

Ospedale Fatebenefratelli San Raffaele Arcangelo

RUGA

Parco

Monastero "Villa Groggia" Carmelitane Scalze

ROLAMO SACCA SAN GI F O N D A M E N TA

SANGIANTOFFETTI

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FONDAMENTA

Santa Maria delle Penitenti

ISOLA DELLE TRESSE

FAUSTA

Chiesa di San Michele in Isola

FONDAMENTA

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FONDAMENTA

DI SAN ROCCO

10 SAN GIORGIO MAGGIORE

15 TORCELLO 16 SAN CLEMENTE

PALACE KEMPINSKI

11 LIDO DI VENEZIA

S. Servolo

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