Savor the Ches

By Kelsey Casselbury

There’s no doubt that the past 18 months have been devastating for the restaurant industry, and now we’re devastated about the recent closures of some beloved Annapolis eateries, including:

Fado, which had its last on October 30th. “We are immensely proud of our time here and want to recognize the people who have honored us by being part of our team, many of whom have been with us for many years,” said its owners in a social media announcement. “...To all the business plans, weddings, families, short lived ‘romances,’ wakes, schemes, and celebrations that started inside our four walls.” Reportedly, a seafood restaurant, SeaSalt, will open in the Park Place location in the spring.

Sam’s on the Waterfront, which closed on September 26th.

We’re trying to remain optimistic here in the light of these closures, so we’ll wipe away the tears because RAR Brewing announced at the end of September that they’ll be opening a hybrid taproom and restaurant in Mexican Cafe’s former location in West Annapolis. Although details are sparse right now, we do know that RAR already makes some fantastic beer in its Cambridge, Md., brewery. RAR also recently opened a second space, called The Labrartory immediately next door to its original taproom, and trust us when we say that it looks really cool.

There’s a new establishment, Pour Dog House, up in Millersville that opened in mid-September. They serve up hot dogs and sausages, along with wings, salads, and more, plus a huge selection of beers. The restaurant also advertises a charitable initiative where every time someone orders Pour Dog House’s “Dog Beer”—brewed especially for pups—they donate up to 75 cents to the local SPCA. It probably goes without saying that dogs are welcome. Woof! Pour Dog House | 722 Generals

Turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes, green beans...is your stomach rumbling yet? Of course, November is all about Thanksgiving dinner, at least when it comes to gastronomy. After 2020 celebrations, which were most likely more intimate, it’s time to really break out the good China plates for a feast. (Unless you’re fatigued from never-ending Zoom meetings, in which case, get your dinner catered. We won’t judge.)

Google Trends data shows that Marylanders most-often search for sweet potatoes around Thanksgiving, though in 2020, the No. 2 search query nationwide was “Thanksgiving margarita”—to which we say, “yaaasssss.” (Quick recipe: 1 ounce apple cider, 1 teaspoon brown sugar, 1.5 ounces gold tequila, 1 ounce orange liqueur, plus salt for the glass and cinnamon sticks for garnish.)

Let’s go back to those sweet potatoes, though. A marshmallow-topped casserole might be traditional, but maybe it’s time for a change. As long as no one in the family will revolt, a roasted sweet potato salad provides a much more balanced set of flavors (read: not bursting with sugar). Go ahead and dice those sweet potatoes, then roast them in some olive oil. Combine the ‘taters with chopped, toasted pecans or walnuts, dried cranberries, crumbled feta, and chopped parsley. Toss it all together with a Dijon mustard-based vinaigrette. It might just be a new family favorite!

There’s this old yarn that red wine is for winter and white wine is for summer, but why? Sure, rich, full-bodied vinos such as cabernets or syrahs can make you feel warm and cozy, but pale varieties deserve cold-weather love, too.

It’s all about picking the right varietal for the time of year. Creamy white wines can be just as rich as red wine and often pair just as well—or even better—with traditional winter dishes. You want to find a bottle that is high in alcohol and/or acidity and has plenty of flavor. Once selected, you don’t want to serve it chilled like you might in warmer months. (Well, actually, you should never serve any wine chilled to 40°F or below; you’ll lose all the flavor.) Instead, you want it to be between 45 and 55°F, particularly Chardonnay, which should be at the higher end of that range.

So, what should you be looking for? The obvious contender is Chardonnay, especially one that’s creamy and oaky. Other options include Chenin Blanc (it’s light-bodied, but high in acidity), an aged Sauternes, or a bold, creamy Viognier.

Of course, we’re all about buying local, so try out one of these white wines from area wineries*:

GREAT FROGS | GREATFROGS.COM—Vintner’s White. A blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Marsanne, Sauvignon Blanc, and Traminette. “Lively aromas and flavors of lemon zest and bread toast with a supple, soft, dryish full body and a smooth, complex finish with well-integrated tannins.” Viognier. “Stone fruit and perfumed floral aroma. Flavors of apricot, sweet peaches, and honeysuckle. Round smooth finish.”

THANKSGIVING FARM WINERY | THANKSGIVINGFARM.COM—Franc Blanc. “Unique white wine made from the White Juice of Cabernet Franc.” THE VINEYARDS AT DODON | DODONVINEYARDS. COM—Chardonnay. “Exhibits green apple and cinnamon, and offers an elegant palate enhanced by notes of citrus and a lingering mineral finish.”

LOVE POINT VINEYARDS AND WINERY | LOVEPOINTVINEYARDS.COM—Chardonnay. “This aromatic and flavor filled wine was fermented in steel and aged in new Hungarian medium and medium plus (+) toasted oak barrels for four months.”

*These bottles were available as of press time, but call in advance to ensure they’re still around.