Out on a Limb June / July 2011

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Independents facing tough buying decisions

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By Nicola Hyde INDEPENDENT shoe shops face tougher buying decisions as brands are holding less stock due to the recession, claims the Society of Shoe Fitters new president.

Jan Parry, of Parry Shoes, has been an independent retailer since 2001 and she stepped in as society president last month. She says one of the toughest jobs of being an independent in the current climate is buying decisions.

She said: “We put our orders in at the beginning of the season and what we used to find was that if we had a shoe that was an extremely good seller, we could easily go back and order more. We are finding more and more, that now the (wholesalers) just don’t have the stock left – because they aren’t carrying as much stock.

“It makes buying much more difficult and a lot riskier because you have to guess which are going to be the winners before you even get them in the shop. Before, you could buy a few and test the market and if the small range took off you could go

Jan Parry back for many more. That’s just not possible any more.”

Jan is a big advocate of the independent retailer and says she believes they have a lot to offer shoppers. She added: “We have a lot of plus points. Unlike the high street who have to just stick to one or two brands, we can offer all sorts of different makes and styles which is a good job really because we are trying

to sell to lots of different people “It is not an easy time for the independent shoe retailer. Customers seem to be getting more difficult and probably have less to spend, prices are increasing, suppliers are keeping less stock, and we retailers are trying to keep everyone happy.”

Jan says in her time ahead as president of the Society of Shoefitters, she would love to see the government step in to do more about raising awareness of footcare and the importance of well fitting shoes.

She added: “I think the public needs to be educated about feet and just how important they are. The other day I saw a girl, who wasn’t any older than five, wearing a pair of these rubber jelly type shoes that were two sizes too big for her. She was clawing her toes just to keep them on. That is so much damage being done and it was clear her parents hadn’t really got a clue.”

The Parrys have two shops – a large children’s business in Pembroke Dock and a shop in Narberth selling only adult shoes.

Crowds hot-foot it to shop for free socks News

Pure to showcase new designers

A SHOP in Keswick was flooded with over 1,000 customers after it ran a joint promotion with SmartWool.

George Fisher’s made some socks that were free to anyone with a programme for the Keswick Mountain Festival.

Andy Airey, George Fisher director, said: “It was the talk of the town, word spread like wildfire among the locals and festival-goers alike and we had queues outside the door every morning as we opened – on Saturday we went through over 200 pairs in one hour. It was one of those ideas that just worked.”

Richard Codgbrook, for SmartWool, added: “We were completely overwhelmed by the amazing response to the

sock promotion and the fact that so many people actually queued to get into George Fisher’s.”

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A new design of shoe which has interchangeable heels is set to revolutionise the industry. The Bacolte shoe – which originated in Italy – has been designed to be transformed from a 1.5 inch to 3.9 inch high shoe, simply by using the clip on heels.

A spokesman said: “The upper is expertly designed and painstakingly hand-crafted in a way that can easily adapt to the variety of heights. The sole was conceived and tested to coordinate mechanically with different kinds of heels. Bacolte is a new way of thinking about female shoes.”

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Pure to showcase UK’s emerging designers THE British Footwear Association has teamed up with Pure to offer a showcase for the UK’s most up and coming new designers.

‘The Designer Collective’ will launch at the next show in August and will feature a talented line-up of emerging footwear designers, handpicked by a judging panel of industry leaders.

Richard Kottler, chief executive of the BFA, said: “Pure has got a proven record of dealing with young and up and coming designers but because it’s a London show that means it’s an expensive one and some new companies just can’t afford it.

“We felt the best way of handling this was to come up with an area at Pure which gives them a small stand to show their work.

Retailers very rarely get to

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see up and coming designers because of the cost of shows and because it would be impossible to find the time to go see them all individually.

“Unless those brands are at London Fashion Week there is no forum for the designers to stand together as a group - so this was the idea, to get a small group together so they can be seen by retailers in one place.

“Shops always have to offer something different but they don’t have time to see every designer that comes knocking on their door.”

The BFA and Pure have short-listed some designers and six will be chosen to appear in the special showcase area.

Richard added: “We have deliberately shortlisted those designers that have got more than just a bright

idea. Those who are more than just up and coming, they have started to make it but because it’s an expensive business to show they wouldn’t usually be able to afford it.”

Also showing at the next Pure will be British fashion designer, Zandra Rhodes with her exclusive launch of her vintage inspired jewellery. Resulting from a collaboration with jewellery designer, Adele Marie, the collection incorporates the designer’s original textile work, with a focus on the dramatic and unique prints that Zandra Rhodes is renowned for.

Showing for the first time, Scholl from Italy will be showcasing their latest collections along with other newcomers Snipe from Germany, Fidji from Portugal and Salvi from Spain.

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Society bids to swell its numbers

By Nicola Hyde NEW retailers are being invited to join the Society of Shoefitters after declining numbers were recorded at this year’s annual general meeting.

The organisation says the AGM, which was held in March, was a busy meeting – but not one that was greatly attended.

The Earl Of Wessex is presented with a specially made pair of New Balance trainers by one of the longest serving factory workers, Ann Ormond (left) and Tom Ross (centre).

A society spokesman said: “Over the years fewer members have attended the AGM and we receive far fewer ‘apologies for absence’. It’s a great shame as these are recorded for posterity and it is great to look back on names over the past 50 years.

“I am assured it is not just the SSF that has witnessed this malaise as it is a trend with smaller organisations, so I am hoping we can swell the numbers into the thousands over the next few years and see a few more of you.”

The Society says everyone is welcome to join in on ordinary meetings too - but it is aware many retailers may be put off attending as they worry they will be given extra work.

“You may be afraid to attend in case you are ‘drafted’ onto council and ‘given a job’ but naturally the most important thing is to ensure that you have a chance to make a difference and an opportunity to have your say. It is great to have a chance to air your views and meet like-minded people.”

Pictured frpm left, Andy Okolowicz (factory manager), Jon Ramm (managing director, EMEA Region) and Tony Cunningham (MP for Workington) meet the Royal visitor.

The next Society of Shoefitters meeting will be on July 13 at the Start-rite Showroom in central London near Oxford Circus.

Royal visit promotes UK footwear production A ROYAL visit to one of the few remaining footwear manufacturing bases in the UK was held last month to promote UK production in footwear.

His Royal Highness The Earl of Wessex visited New Balance’s Flimby factory in Cumbria, where he was taken on a private tour and introduced to the 200 people that work there.

The four longest-serving members of the workforce – Tom Ross, Mary Graham, Margaret Thompson and Ann Ormond – who all started in 1982, the year the factory began production, presented him

with a handcrafted pair of personalised factory-made shoes.

Jon Ram, New Balance’s managing director said: “All of us at New Balance are justifiably proud of His Royal Highness’ visit to our factory here in Flimby.

“New Balance has been constant in its steadfast commitment to the ideal of domestic production as we move towards the landmark of 30 years of manufacturing in Britain. This guiding principle continues to stand as an important and sustainable contribution, through exports across the world, to the British economy.”

Celebrities like Elton John, Sarah Jessica Parker and Justin Timberlake have donated their shoes for a charity auction to raise money for the Japanese relief effort.

The shoes will be auctioned off through CharityBuzz.co m on behalf of the charity Soles4Souls.

Claim filed for $1million damages against YSL CHRISTIAN Louboutin has filed a claim in the New York Courts against Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) for infringement of a registered US trade mark over his signature redsoled shoes.

In a claim for $1million in damages and an injunction to prevent further production and sale of YSL's redsoled shoe, Louboutin has claimed that YSL's use of the red sole is “likely to cause and is causing

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confusion, mistake and deception among the relevant purchasing public”.

A statement issued by legal firm Harbottle Lewis said: “In order to succeed in the claim, Louboutin will have to prove confusion amongst customers. This is a particularly high water mark to attain given the expense of the product in question, the sophistication of the intended customer and the serious

consideration they will give to parting with so much money prior to purchase. Under US law, Louboutin may be able to argue ‘initial interest confusion’ i.e. that the consumer was confused by YSL's use of the distinctive red sole at the time of interest in the product, rather than a focus on confusion at the time of purchase. Although the legal position on confusion in the US is different to that in the UK, the case

will shed interesting light on the US approach to confusion relating to products manufactured by direct competitors of equally high repute in fashion circles. The case could have serious implications for the protections afforded to owners of trade marks in the US.” Louboutin has also reportedly taken legal action against the French footwear brand Carmen Steffens for their red-sole shoe collection.

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Eleanor has competition win up her sleeve ...

By Nicola Hyde A FOOTWEAR designer who won a competition for her innovative shoes made out of a recycled leather jacket is preparing to launch herself to the industry.

Eleanor Ferry, from De Montfort University, won Moda’s Heritage competition which challenged designers to design around the theme History in the Making last season.

Eleanor’s shoe was created using a vintage leather jacket and a variety of fabrics and material resulting in an authentic looking piece of modern heritage.

She said: “The working title we were given for this project was 'Heritage' – this inspired me to look in to and research the years surrounding and during the second world war. I was fascinated by the 'make do and mend' slogan, used during the propaganda at this time, and primarily the lifestyle of the

Eleanor Ferry

women left behind by the men leaving to go to war.

“I wanted to create a shoe that reflected the traditions of the make do and mend era, whilst also creating a shoe that was marketable and fit in to the current high street trends. I used an old leather jacket I bought from a vintage fair to create my final shoe, by using this leather I felt that it was remaining true to the make do and mend theme.”

Eleanor says the combination of old and new gives the shoe a unique feel to this shoe. She added: “I have developed a real passion for all aspects of footwear design and I would love to continue working within the footwear industry when I graduate.”

Moda zones make it easier for buyers NEW zones will be launched for Moda which will make it easier for buyers to find the brands they are looking for.

A new select zone will feature top UK brands alongside international signings like Rocawear founded by hip-hop megastar Jay Z. The directional boutique zone will debut Lacuzzo Design and its collection of News

contemporary styles for men and women and Spanish brand Buffera Hats will show new season designs of multi-functional headwear known as the Buff. The Moda three-day event takes place on 14-16 August 2011 at the NEC Birmingham and will include free retail-oriented seminar programmes led by a selection of industry experts.

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Love them or loathe them, celebrities have a lot to answer for – but one brand grateful for the paparazzi’s obsession with the stars is footwear label Muks, who claim Kate Moss single-handedly launched their brand. OOAL’s Nicola Hyde reports.

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Kate puts the boot on and helps launch brand TRADITIONALLY worn for hunting in the snow, Mukluk boots are nothing new to Canadian aboriginals who have worn the boots for hundreds of years. But – until 2004 – Muks were something the UK had never heard of.

Jaime Cooke, managing director of Muks, is a native Canadian and has pictures of herself aged three, trotting around her family kitchen in her boots. Even she admits she never imagined a household staple would become a fashion phenomenon.

In 2003, Jaime had been living in

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Treading the red carpet

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London for four years, working as an editor on a spa magazine when – after suffering a twinge of homesickness – her mother sent her a pair of mukluks.

She said: “The moment I started wearing them I had people running up to me in the street, asking where I’d got them from. They got so much attention, it was ridiculous.

I remember thinking to myself, this is crazy ... but there might be an idea there. Something really cool.”

She ordered four pair of mukluks from Canada, convincing her friend to put them for sale in her Notting

Hill boutique to test the reaction.

Jaime said: “Two weeks later my husband called me and said Kate Moss is in the papers wearing those boots. I couldn’t believe it – you can’t pay a celebrity to get that kind of press.”

Armed with only a press photograph of the supermodel in the elusive boots, Jaime went straight on to a manufacturer in Canada to negotiate exclusive distribution rights to the product.

“These boots sold okay in Canada but it just kind of ticked over. I went over there and the manufacturer had no idea who Kate Moss was – he gave me exclusive rights for three years.

“As soon as I’d got that in place I went to all the major boutiques with just this picture of Kate wearing the boots – the response was insane.

People were ordering it without even seeing the product.

“Next thing I know, they are being worn by Beyonce, Kate Hudson, we were making a custom pink pair for Paris Hilton. In the first year, I tripled the business for my manufacturer.”

After the celebrity furore died down, Muks went back to basics – focussing its branding and marketing on the comfort and functionality of the boot. But Muks’ biggest problem was that it was seasonal – chunky winter boots totally eliminated selling in hot climate countries like Australia and even in the UK in summer months.

Now, Muks has a new game plan and – for the first time – is unveiling a Spring Summer collection of traditional mocassins and fringe sandles in pastel colours which will be released to trade in July. The company has also just appointed its first ever UK sales agent.

Jaime has written a feature on this which appears in the Summer edition of the British Footwear Association newsletter.

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Aruna’s shoes tread the red carpet A fascination with the bling of Indian weddings and a family of footwear royalty made Aruna Seth take the leap into launching her own brand three years ago. Nicola Hyde reports ARUNA Seth grew up around footwear design – her dad Guru Seth rode the fitness boom of the 1980s with his multi-million pound international footwear company Ascot, pioneering the pro-white trainer.

Aruna used to sell shoes to her classmates at school – working in the Ascot head office during school holidays, where she helped with everything from design to production and marketing.

She said: “It’s in my blood I suppose, something I’ve always had an interest in. Even my brother is involved in the footwear trade and he has his own brand too.

“I enjoyed working at Ascot but I wanted to design something I could wear. The problem in working for a men’s brand is I can’t feel as passionate about it because I can’t wear it. But when it’s your own brand, that you can wear, that’s when you feel really part of it.”

Aruna stormed onto the scene three years ago and now has over 40 styles in her collection which includes Swarovski embellished evening shoes, chic ballerina pumps and elaborate après ski boots.

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She admits to having a love of all things bling – and said wedding shoes were the way forward for her after witnessing so many ornate family weddings.

She added: “My father is Indian and I think my design eye stems from a lot of that – at an Indian wedding there’s a love of all things sparkly, they love the wow factor. My shoes are definitely for the kind of girl that wants to have a show stopper. At the end of the day, everybody wants to feel like a princess on their wedding day.”

Aruna Seth is stocked in high-end independents like Box Boutique,

Browns and there are plans next year to open its first stand-alone store in London.

They have appeared on hit series Gossip Girl and actress Goldie Hawn wore Aruna’s most expensive £2,500 Cinderella shoes covered in 3,000 Swarovski crystals to the New York premiere of Nine.

Aruna added: “I think that our shoes are very celebrity oriented and they are perfect for getting on the red carpet.

“That’s very important as a new brand we need to push that celebrity line so we can get in magazines.”

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Editor’s comment

Out on a Limb cover story

Nicola Hyde Editor CELEBRITY endorsements can make or break a business – the key is getting the right celebrity to wear your brand.

UK boot brand Muks had an astronomical rise to fame in 2004 when supermodel Kate Moss was ‘papped’ wearing a pair of their MukLuk boots – and it sparked an international phenomenon that saw A-Listers like Kate Hudson and Paris Hilton jumping on the bandwagon.

But the instant buzz captured by the brand came at a price – Muks managing director Jaime Cook says she had ‘a nightmare’ on in 2006 when an Italian company copied the MukLuk boot, having it manufactured in China instead of Canada where the boot originated.

The biggest problem though, she said, was that the company used Muks PR images, magazine coverage and celebrity endorsement and passed it off as its own. Her sales agents were going to retailers to sell the brand, only to discover they had placed orders with another company passing themselves off as the original Mukluks.

Another brand capitalising on celebrity endorsement is Atalanta Weller. The shoe designer who has celeb fans like Agness Deyn and Rihanna has teamed up with Girls Aloud’s Nicola Roberts for a spectacularly blinged-up pair of Swarovski sandals that feature in Nicola’s new music video.

Atalanta gave an interview to Vogue last month, talking about the collaboration and more will be revealed in coming months.

Celebrity endorsements are positive for retailers too – it’s a much easier sell convincing someone to buy a pair of shoes worn by Beyonce after all!

As for trends, macrame and crochet is hitting big for next season. Gucci, Roberto Cavalli and Dior spearheaded crochet on their Spring Summer designs and now that trend has spread to footwear – with macrame ankle boots making a foray into the market.

Brands like Fued London and Bronx are taking advantage of 1970's hippy styling with the woven footwear in neutral colour palettes, ticking the fashion trend box for this season.

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Challenging preconceptions and setting a new standard in fashion SLIPPERS are often considered to be the epitomy of a bad present, and Stasia is set to change this preconception by turning this simple, every day item into a fashion statement.

Established in June 2010, Stasia celebrates its first anniversary of trading this month. In an uncertain market, the brand has grown from strength to strength by bringing a quality and innovative product to the market, excelling in customer service and offering favourable terms to trade customers.

Design and quality are the essence of Stasia and each style is designed to make a lifestyle statement.

The AW11 collection is themed around romance and glamour.

Combining minimalism and warmth in a chic and glamorous way, timeless classics are revisited to create contemporary designs that are sensual and soft. Sleek simplicity is mixed with textured effects to fashion a harmonious collection.

Following last year’s success of Stripedottir and Danish Cosy, Stasia will introduce more styles with fauxfur this winter: Chocolate Truffle, Winter Bloom, Night Burst and the boot, Snowdrop. For brighter alternatives, Dazzle and Evening Starlet are bursting with colours and embellishments.

To complement the range of slippers and to respond to popular demand, Stasia recently expanded its offering by introducing ladies’ outdoor ballerinas and baby booties.

The three ballet pumps – Heritage Glamour, Plum Chic and Midnight

Velvet – are in tune with this winter’s glamorous trend and dark colourings, and will add warmth and style to any outfit.

The pram shoes Mademoiselle and little booties Snuggles are presented in high quality gift boxes and are expected to be best-sellers this Christmas.

Previous collections have been greatly successful with independent boutiques and retailers who look to appeal to their customers with novel products. Slippers have been particularly in demand as seasonal gifts, with outdoor footwear and baby booties being all-year-round purchases.

Stasia will be exhibiting at Top Drawer Autumn, 11-13th September, on stand R28.

For all enquiries, contact Anastasia on 0116 232 5706, email hello@stasia.com or visit www.stasia.com

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Retail review

Quirky shoe displays stop traffic ...

AN independent shoe shop in Fleet that is making waves with its whacky window displays says shoe shops should capitalise on their quirkiness and spend more time on their windows.

Sally Hirzalla, manager of Kristena Shoes, captured the attention of her village with her Royal Weddingthemed window display – which featured the royal wedding balcony scene ... with hand-knitted dolls.

Shoes were displayed in a red, white, and blue theme and the knitted creations were eventually raffled off to customers to raise money for Marie Curie Cancer Care.

Sally said: “We have got a knitter in the shop so we decided we should do a special window. We sent off for this knitting kit of the royal wedding balcony scene and she was say there knitting away in the shop inbetween serving customers and fitting shoes. It created a lot of interest because we were doing something a bit different. It was brilliant – we got lots of people coming in asking about it, and it was really nice.”

The shop won the Fit Flops Shoe

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Retailer Award for its window display – and the prize was tickets to Paris.

Sally added: “We are getting known now locally for doing quirky things with our window, and the Fit Flops one was great.

“The original Fit Flops campaign was for a lady with these really long legs in red pants and fit flops – we managed to track down the lower half of a dummy and we put these same red pants on it so it looked exactly like the model with all the shoes around it.

“It stopped traffic that one – and aside from the wedding, was probably the best window we’d ever done.”

The shop staff are now working hard on the next window display, which will capitalise on the handsewn elements of the new Josef Siebel range with an Elves and The Shoe Maker theme.

It is borrowing tools from a local shoe repair shop and is knitting little elves to be placed around the shoes.

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‘It seems to capture people’s imagination – otherwise they just walk past so you have to do something to make them stop’ Continued from Page 14 Sally added: “People are bored of seeing the same windows in the High Street – every where they go it looks the same. I know independent retailers are short on time but doing a really good window display is time well spent.

“The Fit Flop window was the first one we put any real effort into and literally one hour after it had gone in we had people queuing up at the window. Without a shadow of a doubt it works for us – and anything we put in those windows

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sells. It seems to capture people’s imagination – otherwise they just walk past so you have to do something to make them stop.”

The shoe shop has been open for 20 years and Sally took over two years ago after a successful career as a PR executive to a hotel chain. The shop stocks brands like Birkinstock, Dr Marten, Ecco and Start Rite.

Sally is a member of the Society of Shoefitters and appears in the Summer newsletter.

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Fashion blogger Lucy Nicholls, from Snippets Of Shiny Thoughts (www.shinythoughts.net) reports exclusively for Out On A Limb as to why footwear retailers should keep their eye on the up and comers.

Winning students wear their hearts on their heels ...

QUIRKY footwear brand Irregular Choice has launched a limited edition collection at its Carnaby Street store after teaming up with Cordwainers students from the London College Of Fashion.

Fashion blogger Lucy Nicholls was invited to the launch night last week to see the entries and meet the winning students So-Yeon Sarah Ahn and Rosanna Gault.

The students were mentored by designer Danny Sullivan and were briefed to create footwear with a playful twist that maintains that atypical style that is true to the Brighton-based brand’s ethos.

The winning shoes feature a combination of heart shaped heels, candy cane stripes, ditzy florals as well as oversized bows and feathers – and to celebrate the launch a kitsch tea party was held.

Lucy said: “I was very pleased to have been invited to the sweet little launch of the LCF and Irregular Choice collaboration. My personal favourite design was Rosanna’s which she was stomping the upstairs of the Carnaby Street floor in. I let her know that her adorable heart-

heeled shoes worked because they were cute and certainly quirky yet still wearable for me.

“As well as the sciencedefying heart cutout, I also adored the colourful house design on the sole. So-Yeon Sarah designed a clever shoe which could then be built up on with further accessories.

Packaging was also considered with special bag designs too.

“Both shoe styles went on sale on 25th May and you can buy them online for a fairly large price tag but one that feels well deserved.

“The profits will also go towards future student collaborations which I see as a fantastic scheme for the retailer as they are able to source new talent and cause a buzz about a design, something that really should be seen more

often. It pushes students out of their own personal comfort zones, focusing on the client demands and introduces healthy competition.

“It must be wonderfully encouraging for the girls to see their hard work become a reality where the final product is not only admired by a tutor but holds relevance in the business of fashion. The friendly hosts explained that the students had been inspired by cultures across the globe and architecture which are also core style shapers of the Irregular Choice brand. London should certainly continue keeping in touch with its creative student roots. Footwear retailers should watch out, students may just be the injection of flair you may need for your next collections.”

What do you think? As a footwear retailer, do you see students offering you something different? We’d love to hear your thoughts. Email nl@whpl.net or tweet us on http://twitter.com/OOALmagazine

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product showcase product showcase product showcase incorporating Performance, comfy foot solutions and bridal

Universal traveller CUSHE create travel inspired footwear that fuses versatility with lightweight supreme comfort to meet the demands of today’s globe trotters.

The Universal Traveller range is a rugged, robust and hardwearing range designed for après-outdoor sports, featuring styles in premium waterproof leathers and suede, for stylish and comfortable footwear that’s perfect for active days.

The range also features shock absorbing footbeds with EVA cushioning, and ventilated mesh linings across the range, offering the best in comfort. A selection of styles in the range also feature moulded Vibram soles – highperformance rubber soles targeted to the outdoor, fashion, repair and orthopaedic markets.

The coming AW11 season will also see new styles added to the range, including the After Ride, a men’s

Body Shoe bridges the gap

waterproof shearling boot in Wolverine performance suede, and the Urban Vessel, a stylish hiking boot with d-ring lace detail.

The women’s range will also see new boots in Cushe’s waterproof leather and suedes – including an alternative to Wellington boots.

For more sales information e-mail: Cushe's UK Sales Manager, Wayne Cupid at: wayne.cupid@wwwinc.com, call: +44(0)7827 446603 or visit: www.cushe.com

HUSH Puppies has launched The Body Shoe to bridge the gap between athletic shoes and everyday casuals.

foam in the arch and Poron foam in the heel and ball of the foot provide complete support and enhanced cushioning.

The Body Shoe collection is engineered with a bevelled heel and toe that increases walking efficiency by encouraging an easier, smoother and more natural walking motion.

An advanced climate control system composed of Ortholite foam footbeds features in every Body Shoe which wicks away moisture, reducing heat build up and keeping the foot cool, dry and comfortable.

Multi-density footbeds with Ortholite

Wedding belles THE wedding season is upon us, with family and friends praying for fine weather for their special day.

The reception is booked, guests invited and outfits deliberated over and bought.

But where to get a stylish, comfortable and smart shoe that looks as good as it feels? Choosing the right wedding shoe is a key decision.

Equity are specialists in wide fitting, leather court shoes and have been making ladies footwear for over 100 years and know a thing or two about what women want when choosing wedding shoes.

Product showcase

With a trade price of just £27.45 and a retail of £64.95, Equity shoes won’t greatly add to the expense of a wedding outfit but will guarantee feet feel fine all day long.

Available in an exceptional selection of designs, colours, heel heights and fittings – there is a shoe for any occasion.

Don’t miss out on this fantastic profit opportunity, exceed your customer’s expectations and order your Equity court shoes now.

Contact Padders Sales on 01536 534999 or your Area Manager to place your order now.

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product showcase product showcase Australian kids brand Skeanie are moving into Europe with the appointment of United Brand Management as its exclusive distributor.

Natasha Barber launched Skeanie after becoming frustrated with not being able to find good quality, fashionable shoes – they have made waves in Australia and are endored by podiatry associations.

Natasha said: “I am delighted that United Brand Management has joined us. It certainly is a great step forward for the next stage of our company’s development. We look forward to making our footmark in Europe.”

Product showcase

Kool for Kids

Study looks at child shoe design

A NEW research study from footwear brand Stride Rite has revealed how shoe design affects child development.

The results show how the construction of a shoe can affect gait, stability and plantar loading throughout different stages of learning to walk.

The study was conducted over a two year period in partnership with the Temple University School of Podiatric Medicine and the California College of Podiatric Medicine.

Dr Paul Scherer, lead researcher, said: “The striking results of this study shed light on the very important but under-researched topic of child foot development. When we approached the research, the only available information on child foot development was based on opinions nearly 50 years old.”

Its focus was to understand children’s foot development milestones in order to identify if shoe flexibility should vary for each development stage.

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product showcase product showcase Bridal collection Joana designs with vegan brides in mind ...

FOOTWEAR student Joana Silva has been working on a bridal collection for Beyond Skin as part of her final project.

Joana spent a year working with the brand as a studio assistant and it was suggested that she might like to help develop the brand’s bridal range.

She said: “I did extensive research on the brand, the vegan and wedding market as well as compiling inspirational research.

“This led me to design nine styles for the collection and two of them were hand made by myself.

“The aim of my final major project was to revitalise Beyond Skin’s bridal range and make the brand the first point-of-call for vegan brides to be, those planning an ethical wedding or those who simply like the styles.”

Joana Silva is a student at London College of Fashion completing a BA (Hons) Cordwainers Footwear: Product Design and Development. She graduates in July.

‘Just married’ boot added to collection LUXURY sheepskin boot brand Love From Australia have just announced delivery of a new consignment of its sellout ‘Just Married’ boot.

The boot – originally designed as a limited edition – has proven so popular that LFA has decided to include them in its collection for this year.

The style is based on the brand’s long-running Cupid design, hand-made from velvet-soft sheepskin and tied at the side with satin ribbons.

A spokesman said: “The celebratory words Just and Married are embroidered on the heels – a perfect gift for the bride to slip on underneath the wedding dress after a long night dancing or to shout to the world her happy news on the honeymoon journey.”

Luxury bridal brand Benjamin Adams has launched its 2012 collection with a strong focus on vintage trims and Swarovski crystal elements.

Creative Director Alessandro Pavan’s has developed a collection that encapsulates allure and glamour with 24 styles ranging from peep toes to jewel-encrusted platforms.

The 2012 collection from bridal footwear designer Rachel Simpson features lower heels and a nod towards 1940s elegance.

The brand is already making waves in the industry after being bigged up by famous wedding blogger Kat Williams (Rock N Roll Bride) and the 2012 collection looks set to storm the market.

Inspired by the early 1940s, the collection features satin and leather, soft kid suede with pearlised and metallic leather detailing. The bridal collection is finished with Rose’s signature floral insole.

A spokesman said: “This year the emphasis is on lower heels. In addition to new styles on the popular mid and low round toes, a new ballerina at a lower price point is perfect as an add on purchase or bridesmaid option.”

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product showcase product showcase product showcase Virtual doors open on boutique A NEW online accessories and footwear boutique which has a french twist has opened its virtual doors.

Femme-Enfant.com was founded by Louise Woodhead with a wide spectrum of goods and price points.

Louise said: “I set out to create an independent boutique that is inspired by seasonal trends but dares to differentiate.�

Born and raised in Scotland, Louise spent most of her summer holidays in France as a child.

She studied French at university and

her adult life has been divided between Paris and London.

A former fashion model, Louise followed a career in business and has led marketing efforts for world leading firms such as Lilly, L'Oreal and Goldman Sachs.

Step forward in sock design THE sock is one of the last items of clothing to undergo a revolutionary change in design.

NZ Sock Co., in consultation with expert clinical advisors, has designed a range of socks using advanced technology. Incorporating a unique combination of natural merino wool, renowned for its exceptionally high quality fibre, superior softness, strength and durability and Seacell, an innovative, cellulose and seaweed-based fibre with extensive applications for medical textiles and situations where hygiene and cleanliness are important.

Lifesocks deliver outstanding preventative and protective features and are designed to reduce friction and pressure, effectively manage temperature and moisture, inhibit bacterial growth,

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offer a warm and non-constrictive comfort and adapt to the individual shape of the foot.

They provide an important protective interface between the shoe and the skin, what we call the forgotten interface. Our trademarked Elastic Support System (ESS) locks the sock onto the foot and the lower leg with minimal compression, providing support particularly under the plantar arch region.

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Jewellery Week opens to trade for first time

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THOUSANDS of buyers flocked to London Jewellery Week this month to see the hottest new designers launched to the trade for the first time.

The event – which featured jewellery fashion shows, seminars and meet-themaker days – showcased London’s top emerging and established jewellery designers.

This year was the first time that LJW has been open to trade buyers – it is usually a consumer show.

A spokesman said: “It is no surprise that London is viewed around the world as a major centre for jewellery design and manufacturing as well as a shopping destination without comparison. The range of top-quality jewellery designers and luxury brands available for the connoisseur in London is stunning “This year London Jewellery Week built on its success as a consumer event by opening up to trade buyers as well. The first day of Treasure, the Contemporary Jewellery Show at the heart of London Jewellery Week, was an exclusive trade day for domestic and international retail buyers to view collections and meet jewellers who they may want to stock in the future. As London Jewellery Week evolves, we want to provide even more opportunities for

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Bid to bag UK market Page 24

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jewellers to build their profile with retail buyers and increase their sales though mutually beneficial relationships.”

Top British brands such as Annoushka, David Marshall, Boodles and Theo Fennell and emerging designers Tomasz Donocik, Zeilia Horsely, Joanna Dahdah, Alexander Davis and even international new to the British market such as Bachet, Sharwish and Madhuri Parson featured at the show.

And venue Hatton Garden even hosted a street party on the last day (June 11) with a record breaking finale -- a Guinness World Record jewellery-making attempt featuring 40 master craftspeople.

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Hobo bid to bag the UK market A HANDBAG brand that was founded on a dining room table in Maryland is making a foray into the UK market with a display at the Chic Trade Show.

Hobo was founded in 1991 by Toni Ray in Annapolis, Maryland on her dining room table. Toni had been creating accessories for years as the co-founder of Georgetown Leather Design in Washington, where – during the 60s and 70s – her bags were made in the basement of the shop and selling to the hip crowd.

In 1991, she cashed in her lifesavings, bought a beat-up van and convinced her daughter and future son-in-law, Koren and David, to head to New York to sell the first ‘Hobo’ collection.

Over the years, Hobo’s handbag have earned a loyal following – with Womens Wear Daily branding it as

Orgon has designed a credit card wallet in aluminium and stainless steel. The RFID blocking Credit Card wallet comes in 14 different styles and helps protect your identity from high tech hackers. It is distributed by LondonBelle.

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one of America’s fun and funky accessories labels. Now run by Koren and David Brewer, the brand still stays true to its original design philosophies even still working with Toni – who lives on the same street as the couple and steps in occasionally to help with the brand.

Koren said: “The Hobo brand has come a long way from handbags designed on the dining room table to a multi-million dollar accessory business.

“The true heritage spirit of crafting fashionable, smart accessories in quality materials remains the driving philosophy of the company today.

What built Hobo then and what sets us apart now, is our passion for style and purposeful design.”

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Kids’ event cancelled due to poor response

By Nicola Hyde GERMAN trade show Bread and Butter has cancelled its plans for a kids’ event due to lack of response.

The Youngstars Event has been planned for this July after show organisers said the market seemed to want a fresh look at kids’ products – but it revealed that only 70 smaller brands and labels confirmed, with the bigger players failing to sign up.

Karl-Heinz Müller, managing director, of Bread and Butter, said: “Our offer was the establishment of an independent, contemporary kidswear trade show platform with Bread and Butter as the model.

“With such a small number of participants, an independent and strong event can simply not be realised.

So we could not accomplish our ambitious goals. For this reason, we closed the book on kidswear.

“We believed to have heard very clearly that the kidswear industry wants a change, because many protagonists are not satisfied with the existing situation. Although the planned double usage of the event grounds at the airport Tempelhof enabled us to lower the stand rent more that 30 % compared to the usual price, the stand rent was still too high for many. Some thought the date was inconvenient, a great number of market participants wished for a “Youngstars” taking place parallel to Bread and Butter, preferably also at the Tempelhof airport in order to participate in the vibe and the atmosphere.

Business and technology

“I would very much have liked to realise B&B Youngstars.

We put a lot of our own hearts into this. I had the opportunity to meet a lot of interesting people from the Kidswear industry who understand the lifestyle of today’s kids in all its facets, who are committed to this topic with all their power, passion and a lot of dedication, and that are of course successful. I would have very much liked to work with them.”

The brands who had signed up – along with more than 3,000 registered retailers and buyers – have been notified.

Luxury shoe retailer sold for £215m EUROPE’s largest luxury shoe retailer Kurt Geiger has been acquired by The Jones Group for £215 million.

Equity specialist Graphite Capital announced that it sold its majority shareholding in Kurt Geiger this month, after it backed the £95 million management buy-out of the brand in February 2008.

A spokesman for Graphite said: “The company has grown rapidly to become one of the leading international retailers and distributors of luxury and premium ladies’ and men’s footwear and accessories, selling its own brands and more than 100 third-party brands from Gucci to UGG. “Despite the challenging economic conditions in the retail industry during Graphite’s ownership, turnover increased by over 70 per cent to £205 million at April 2011.”

Since the management buy-out in 2008, Kurt Geiger has opened 24 stand-alone stores in the UK, including a new flagship concept store in Covent Garden. It has also strengthened partnerships with leading UK department store groups, including Harrods, Selfridges, House of Fraser, John Lewis and Liberty, and signed an exclusive UK distribution agreement with Nine West, one of The Jones Group’s own leading brands.

Overseas, the company has opened stores in Dubai, Kuwait, Qatar and Bahrain and signed agreements with franchise partners in Russia and Turkey, opening its first stores in Moscow and Istanbul in the past few months.

Markus Golser, a senior partner who managed the transaction for Graphit said: “Kurt Geiger’s trading record in the toughest of economic climates has been particularly impressive.

“The company has performed extremely well across all distribution channels and is one of very few UK private equity-backed retail companies to have expanded successfully into international territories over the past three years.

Kurt Geiger is now well positioned for further growth as part of an international footwear and apparel group.”

Negotiate better deals at trade shows Exhibitions offer fantastic opportunity Page 27

Kids’ show cancelled due to poor response Page 27

The price of a lady’s shoe habit ...

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By Ian Tomlinson, executive chairman, Cybertill I AM sure most footwear retailers are dusting down their comfy shoes in anticipation for show season – but exhibitions offer retailers a fantastic opportunity to negotiate better deals with their key suppliers.

Retailers that can arm themselves with sales, orders and stock statistics to put themselves in a position to negotiate.

Those retailers with a web based EPoS system (also known as a cloud based EPoS system) can access all their reports from any device that can access the internet.

So whether it is their iPhone, iPad or laptop they can simply log on to their EPoS system and pull up all the relevant data they need for the

Ian Tomlinson

supplier they are with.

I have spoken with several retailers that have used web based EPoS systems to their advantage to negotiate better deals. One retailer

was at a trade show in Orlando, Florida and by borrowing the suppliers’ laptop they accessed their web based EPoS system and were able to negotiate an extra £1,500 discount for their store, as they were showing the supplier their live figures.

It is also critical to get the buying right at the shows, ensuring you order the right type of stock and quantities. Web-based EPoS can show previous months, seasons, year’s sales can be accessed. A Quiksilver franchisee explained to me that their web based system allowed them to get their buying right at the tradeshows they attended in France. They could see if they had could see what were the best colours, sizes etc, so they could break down what sizes they needed.

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A new SCRIPT for Success in this brave new world of retailing

by Dean van Leeuwen, Tomorrow Today Our research undertaken in the TomorrowToday laboratory has identified six new S.C.R.I.P.Ts for Success for retailers and managers.

Strategy at speed: Research consistently shows a hard link between speed and business results. Fast companies grow their revenues on average 40 per cent higher than slow companies, they also average 52 per cent more profits.

Customers: Customers have changed. Retailers need to develop customer experiences and value propositions that appeal to each generation and focus on the wealthy.

Results: We are moving from shareholder capitalism to customer capitalism.

Businesses that offer the best

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returns for their community and their shareholders will be most successful.

Innovation: Leaders in the new world need to nurture and encourage a culture where employees feel safe to think and act differently. Tony Hsieh quit Oracle and in 1999 invested everything he had (and nearly lost it all) to create Zappos, the online shoe retailer.

Ten years later he sold Zappos to Amazon for $1.2 billion.

Partnerships: Going it alone is no longer an option. Future success will depend on the ability to manage win-win collaborative relationships with customers, suppliers and even competitors.

Story-Telling: Every great business has an exciting story to tell. Your customers and employees want stories that inspire them.

The price of a shoe habit NEW research has revealed the average British woman owns nearly £400 worth of shoes that they never – or rarely – wear.

The study, from Co-operative Insurance, reveals that while women in the UK own an average twenty pairs of shoes, eleven of those pairs will remain hardly worn.

Most will continue to fuel their shoe habit, buying eight new pairs a year.

Lee Mooney, head of home insurance at The Co-operative, said the company did the research to encourage women to add their shoe collections to their home insurance.

He added: “It’s staggering to think about how much the average woman’s shoe collection could be worth. The research shows just how much most women will spend on their footwear every year, and not only that, but how much many will

spend on shoes they don’t actually wear. Whereas a few decades ago shoes may have been considered an indulgent purchase, it’s now the norm to spend a considerable amount of money on them every year.

It's easy to forget the value of items.”

According to the survey, a pair of shoes will cost the average British woman £36, meaning they clock up an annual average shoe-spend of £288. And ten per cent of the 3,000 women surveyed will spend at least £600 a year on shoes.

The research also shows that most women will wear a pair of shoes for three years before binning them, although more than a fifth can’t bear to part with their footwear, with 21 per cent admitting that they never throw old shoes away.

Brand sold day after entering administration FOOTWEAR brand Georgina Goodman will cease to exist in its current guise after a traumatic month which saw it enter administration – and sold a day later.

Business recovery specialist Begbies Traynor (Central) LLP completed a sale of the business and assets of Georgina Goodman Limited – the luxury shoe retailer based in the heart of London – which included a retail outlet at Old Bond Street, on June 3.

Spokesman Kirstie Provan said: “Georgina Goodman Limited entered into administration on June 2 and the following day we completed a sale of the name, IP and goodwill of the business to Intercede 2387 Ltd. Unfortunately it has not been possible to continue trading the business in its current form and we are working alongside the new owners to keep the Bond Street store open until late June to maximise recoveries.”

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Trade fair takes great strides in fashion and business WHICH trends can be identified in orders for Spring/Summer 2012? Which innovations will assert themselves on the market and what new distribution channels can be opened up?

Relevant answers to these questions will be given to visitors by GDS as an international sectoral platform at the Düsseldorf Exhibition Centre from September 7-9 2011.

840 exhibitors from around 37 countries are expected to visit the metropolis on the Rhine over the three days of the trade fair.

Systematically grouped into eleven different lifestyle worlds, they will present their shoe, bag and accessory lines for Spring/Summer 2012 to the trade audience. Ranging from progressive, trendsetting premium labels to fast-turning sports and denimwear, from design newcomers to broadly accepted brands not forgetting latest kids’ fashion: GDS offers its visitors the complete range of footwear fashions – at one place and on one date.

This year, in cooperation with the British Footwear Association, there will be a designer’s area including: Northern Cobbler, One True Saxon, Ted Baker Footwear, Po-Zu, Laidback London, Esska Design, Kat Maconie, Michael Lewis London, Cheaney Shoes.

There will be a programme of side events: compact, concentrated, competent.

There is more to the footwear business than just the right choice of exhibitors and presentation of latest trends. With its accompanying

events the trade fair brings special value added to visitors. Fashion shows, trend lectures, seminars and trend installations introduce you to the key trends while providing perfect preparation for your order talks. The side events in Düsseldorf also include numerous technical forums with current topics for industry insiders, events with a “celebrity” and entertainment factor as well as press presentations.

GDS Director Kirstin Deutelmoser said: “GDS has long become a pioneering information and trend platform for the shoe industry proving its worth season after season.”

GLOBAL SHOES: Must-go event for producers and dealers with an interest in volume business Both in terms of time and location GLOBAL SHOES will be held concurrently with GDS; the “sister event” will take place in Halls 8a and 8b of the Düsseldorf Exhibition Centre. Thanks to its wide and varied shoe and leather goods ranges this trade fair for OEMs (Original Equipment Manufacturers) and volume suppliers genuinely reflects the entire spectrum of the international volume market. To the tune of 380 exhibitors from 15 countries will present their products and services to international importers, wholesalers and footwear producers.

Such strong-selling suppliers as Mad Mad, JC Concept, New York Group and Y. Yessi have already confirmed their participation in the autumn event.

‘GDS has long become a pioneering information and trend platform for the shoe industry proving its worth season after season’

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Coming up next time in Out on a Limb In the next issue of OOAL we will be looking at the inventive ways accessories designers are using materials like wood, paper and even old tyres to create wearable items.

We will be taking a look at the new Designer Collective launched by the British Footwear Association to profile the UK's most up and coming designers – and reporting back on who are the ones to watch.

We will also be taking you on a photographic tour of Van Dal's Norwich factory, as they celebrate 75 years of making shoes.

And it’ll be show time with a Moda Preview including Kids at Moda.

A special eco feature will look at all things environmentally-friendly so if you’re interested in featuring your business contact sales manager Beverley Green on 01226 734456

Contacts

TRAINING

Sales Tony Barry – Sales & Marketing Director

Christina Eccles – Reporter Dominic Musgrave – Reporter

(tb@whpl.net) Editorial Contacts Tel: 01226 734694 Email: nl@whpl.net

Beverley Green – Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net)

Design & Production

Advertising Contacts Tel: 01226 734456 Fax: 01226 734477

Stewart Holt – Studio Manager (sth@whpl.net)

Editorial Andrew Harrod – Group Editor Judith Halkerston – Group Deputy Editor Nicola Hyde – Editor

diary dates

Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk

RETAIL SOLUTIONS

Chic - the International Fashion Accessories and Travel Goods Fair (http://www.chicuk.com) July 3 - 5, 2011 The Bread and Butter Supershow (www.breadandbutter.com) 6-8 July 2011, The Outdoor Show, Germany (www.outdoor-show.com) 14 to 17 July 2011 Home & Gift, Harrogate 17-20 July 2011 (www.homeandgift.co.uk) Pure Olympia and Earls Court, London, 7 - 9 August 2011 (www.purelondon.com) Stitch Menswear Earls Court Exhibition Centre, 7 - 9 August 2011 (www.stitchmenswear.com) Moda Footwear NEC, Birmingham, 14 - 16 August 2011 (www.moda-uk.co.uk) GDS Messe Dusseldorf, Germany, 7 - 9 September 2011 (www.gds-online.com)

RETAIL SOLUTIONS

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