Out on a limb (Issue 53)

News

Laura bags fair trade with a difference ...

ACCESSORIES designer Laura Queening has created her latest collection with the aim of bringing something new to the fair trade market.

After being named Drapers Student Accessories Designer of the Year in 2007 she travelled to Nepal to find suppliers and manufacturers to produce her collection.

The Aura Que range is now available in fair trade outlet Equa and Oxfam boutiques in London as well as other retailers around the country.

Laura, pictured above, said: “I am trying to appeal to a different consumer than the traditional fair trade buyer – the products are more high end, the price point is slightly higher and this is reflected in the quality of the materials and the handcrafting.

“I don’t want to compromise on design and it has always been my aim to avoid producing a

stereotypical fair trade product.

“I am trying to promote the Nepalese skills and crafts, but combining that with designs that will appeal to the UK market.”

Her collection is produced in a factory that employs underprivileged workers and the designs incorporate local materials including the Allo Nettle Yarn, produced from a Himalayan plant, traditional Dhaka woven fabric and handmade brass fittings.

She added: “I wanted to start my own business as I like to follow a project all the way through.

“For me it is much more appealing to work with local producers and other small businesses and create something together rather than just sending sketches off to a factory I have never visited and hope for the best.

“I also think it is important that if you are going to put your name to

something, that you know how it has been made and the processes that have gone into it.”

Laura’s latest range features a series of leather shoppers and totes in pale sage and black, with tailoring details combined with contemporary shapes.

She has also received a lot of requests for men’s and unisex bags and now plans to incorporate these into her next collection.

She added: “I hope to end up with a core, classic range of popular designs, which I can then update with new and fresh styles each season.

“I like to keep on top of the latest trends, but it is also important to me that the look of the bags is timeless, so that they can be enjoyed for a long time. It seems that the more I do, the more I learn what is possible – I want to keep expanding because there is so much that can be done.”

Online tool measures up

Robin Akeroyd has been appointed as the new managing director of Crocs Europe.

He takes over from Dick Wijsman who founded the company in Europe and will continue his work at Crocs in a global position.

Robin has been deputy managing director of Crocs Europe for almost four years

and has also worked in the international footwear market for the Deckers Corporation and Hub Footwear. He said: “I look forward to my new position in Crocs. The company has experienced tremendous success and now we have a great range of products which teamed up with our sales and operational structures offer retailers a great mix.”

A NEW online tool for measuring children’s feet has been launched by kids’ footwear brand Start-rite.

The company has commissioned scientists from the University of East Anglia to develop the photographic fitting system, which allows parents to buy fitted shoes over the internet. To use the tool, a measuring grid is downloaded and printed out from the Start-rite website.

Parents then take digital photographs of the child’s feet on the grid, from three different angles.

Once uploaded, these allow the ‘Click’n’Fit’ tool to calculate the sizing information needed to buy

shoes online.

Peter Lamble, chairman and MD, said: “Start-rite has always prided itself on being at the leading edge of developments in children’s fitted footwear and we are really excited about this latest addition to our website. The new tool provides parents who are buying shoes for their children online with the best measuring option currently available. Consumers who shop online are looking for ease and convenience without compromising on quality and that is what we are giving them with out transactional website and the measuring options it offers.”

How sector is fighting back amid difficulties THE industry is gearing up for the summer shows with WSA in Las Vegas, Pure and Moda all approaching fast.

Independent retailers are being advised to ‘buy smart’ to avoid getting left with unwanted stock that just won’t sell and this issue, Out On A Limb talks to the brands and agents on the front line to find out how consumer research and a tailor made offering can increase sales.

Spending money only in the right areas will be more important than ever as new research has suggested that the UK footwear sector is set to face its biggest shake-up since the demise of the British Shoe Corporation.

A study has concluded that the majority of lower and middle price footwear businesses are now facing the risk of collapse and this could lead to many hundreds of empty shops left on the high street.

However, the Society of Shoe Fitters has found that many stores are fighting back, with record numbers signing up for fitting courses in an attempt to offer the customer something extra.

The Society has attributed the increase to the current difficult selling environment and to retailers looking for something that can set them apart from the competition.

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Contents COVER STORY

Issue 53 June/July 09 Show time for shoe company Iconic through the decades

NEWS

4 6

Sales Tony Barry - Sales & Marketing Director Beverley Green - Sales Manager (bg@whpl.net)

Karrie-Anne Nowell - Sales Executive (kn@whpl.net)

SPOTLIGHT

Boost for struggling students

6

Advertising Contacts Tel: 01226 734333 | Fax: 01226 734477

Editorial

NEWS

Brand gets sporty ...

10

KIDS

Busy days for baby firm

11

Andrew Harrod - Group Editor Judith Halkerston - Group Deputy Editor Louise Cordell - Editor Christina Eccles - Reporter Mary Ferguson - Reporter Editorial Contacts Tel: 01226 734694 | Fax: 01226 734705 Email: lcordell@whpl.net

NEWS

Fairies dust new collection

23

NEWS

Forging links

29

Design & Production Stewart Holt - Studio Manager (sth@whpl.net)

Kyle Wilkinson - Design & Production

DIARY DATES

What’s going on and when

30

(kw@whpl.net)

Circulation 01226 734695 (24 hour hotline) Email: circulation@wharncliffepublishing.co.uk

Show time for Phildon ...

PHILDON Footwear Ltd is a fashion led wholesale company with over 20 years’ experience of the industry.

This knowledge and experience helps us to design an extensive range that we feel has something for everyone.

We work with both independent stores and high-street chains, in the UK and overseas, supplying them with our own designs, or developing new and exciting ideas with their buyers and designers.

The close relationship we have with our customers and our factories means we can bring you the latest trends and fashions at competitive prices.

This summer we relaunched our website, www.phildon.co.uk, which will be updated at the start of each season with the new collection.

This also enables us to showcase new styles which are added throughout the season, as at Phildon Footwear Ltd we like to keep our finger firmly on the fashion pulse and offer

you the latest designs as soon as they step off the catwalk. As well as having a new exciting website, this summer also saw the launch of our new comfort footwear brand called Sister Moon which has had an amazingly successful first season.

The range is inspired by nature loving ladies who like their footwear to make a fashionable statement.

All the styles have leather uppers and crepe soles and the future looks very exciting for this brand.

As always we will be exhibiting at both Pure and Moda this August.

Our stands at both events have increased in size over the past few years, as our range becomes larger and more fashion forward.

This year we have a brand

new location at Pure which is situated nearer the brands section, we are also nearer the café. So why not come and get a cup of coffee and view our exciting Autumn/Winter ‘09 collection. Our stand number at Pure is Fo12 and our stand number at Moda is FD19.

In addition to this we are hoping to exhibit at the Micam Shoe Event this September, which is seen within the shoe industry as the number one trend setting exhibition.

Thousands flock to Micam as they know they will find products at the cutting edge of fashion. Micam is the number one shoe fair in the world and it’s one of the places our design team get their inspiration from. So why not check Phildon Footwear Ltd out at any of the above fairs, or the website to see our collection of must have shoes.

Tel: 0208 309 8880 Fax: 0208 309 8801 Email: dispatch@phildon.net

News

Iconic brand through the decades ICONIC British brand Clarks is celebrating its 60th anniversary with a new push on international sales.

Seventies

Fifties

The Clarks Originals range already has more than 95 per cent of sales come from outside the UK and aims to trade even more on its authentic British culture.

The company is based in Somerset – where the first Clarks shoes were made in 1825 – and all its leathers are still sourced from the same tannery in Leeds that have been supplying them for over 60 years.

Brand director Sebastian Edwards said: “Britishness is a fundamental part of the brand culture and our heritage is central to everything that we do. But our appeal really depends on where you go in the world as all of our biggest markets have diverse cultures and different relationships with the UK. “For example, in Japan being British is important, but more important is being the owner of the original version of an iconic fashion profile, but in South Korea the main attraction is our quirkiness and the

Sixties Eighties

fact that the products are different to anything else in the market.”

Despite the difficult financial climate Sebastian also believes that the company is well placed to deal with the downturn, thanks to the brand’s history.

He added: “We feel our clear heritage puts us in a stronger position than many fashion brands, who find themselves continually chasing the latest trends.

“Our plan is to protect the business by staying true to our strategy of combining classic and contemporary design with the best quality materials to produce shoes that are unique, but that never forget their roots.”

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Nineties

Sebastian said: “We felt that the desert boot was timeless because it has never gone out of fashion.

“Instead it has enjoyed a revival in every one of the last six decades, being adopted by new generations each time. So every one of the anniversary shoes has been inspired by the events and fashions we remember from the time.”

Converse has released ‘The Weapon’ as part of its Heritage Basketball collection for spring/summer 2009.

The range has been created to represent iconic moments from basketball history using many of the original team colours including The Chicago Bulls, LA Lakers, New York Nicks and Boston Celtics.

The collection’s styles include re-released Converse silhouettes in a variety of colourways for both men and women.

300m pairs of shoes left unworn OVER 300 million pairs of shoes are being left unworn in the UK because they have been bought even when they don’t fit.

New research from Hush Puppies has revealed that although one in five women in the UK own more than 25 pairs, most are left gathering dust in the bottom of their wardrobes.

Over 70 per cent of women claimed that they don’t wear half of their shoe collection and admitted this was because they had bought a pair of shoes that didn’t fit properly and then never put them on.

The study also revealed that more than half of UK women take a pair of flats on a night out to change into when their heels become too painful, 43 per cent travel to work in flats and only put their heels on when they get in, and 32 per cent keep up to ten pairs under their desk at all times to choose from.

The report stated: “The damage that skyscraper heels can do to women and their bodies has been well reported in the press.

“Women are even putting themselves through painful medical procedures to repair the damage that poorly fitting shoes have done. With 57 per cent of people claiming that comfort is the most important thing to them when buying new shoes, there is clearly a shopping dilemma for the UK’s shoe loving women.”

The brand is to celebrate the anniversary with the launch of a series of special edition products. A desert boot has been created for each decade, including a 50s Harris tweed, a 60s liberty print, a 70s purple suede, an 80s denim design and a 90s Union Jack.

Footwear designer Sophie Gittins has produced a new limited edition shoe to supplement her autumn/winter 09 collection.

The styles are characterised by graphic shapes and spiked stilettos in fabrics including goat suede, silk organza, mohair wool and lamb nappa.

The design was created following the range’s launch during London Fashion Week, as part of the Felicities Designer Exhibition.

Each of the shoes is named after an influential historical figure, with names for A/W09 taken from members of the Austrian Weiner

Werkstatte art movement.

Sophie has previously displayed her designs as part of a touring exhibition with Manolo Blahnik, Jimmy Choo and Gil Cavalho and has been nominated for the Michael Morris Marchpole Accessories Award.

Designer Spotlight Footwear brand T.U.K was born in England and raised in California, but enjoys worldwide notoriety for its individual styles inspired by music, art and fashion. Mary Ferguson spoke to design director Lisa Sanger-Greshko.

Notorious brand inspired by music, art and fashion CREATED out of the English underground rock and roll scene over twenty years ago, the demand for original and creative footwear styles led to T.U.K taking its British craftsmanship and traditional shoemaking techniques to the alternative subculture of Southern California.

from the word go – to create original footwear for men, women, and children who are inspired by music, art, and fashion and who want to represent individuality and expression. This is what T.U.K has always been famed for and why we have become a staple for the music scene.”

What the letters T.U.K stand for is a closely guarded secret, but celebrity fans include U2, Green Day, Avril Lavigne and Blink 182 – and the shoes have even made it on to the runways of London Fashion week.

Styles reference historic music and subculture trends and the brand aims to stand out from the crowd with shoes that are gritty and artistic, but still functionally fashionable and at a price point that enables customers to have fun with the brand.

Lisa said: “It was the mix of the American alternative music scene, its surrounding culture, and our strong roots in the UK which have shaped our past and guide our future.

“T.U.K’s aims have been consistent

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T.U.K is renowned for its Creepers and the company has evolved them to cater for retailers and fans.

Alongside the traditional

stacked Creepers which have been popular with the fashion press, the brand has produced the Sneaker Creeper which has the comfort of a trainer with a more subtle Creeper look, in bright prints.

In the beginning T.U.K was a unisex brand with very few styles made for only men and women, but it now offers stand-alone ranges for men, women and children, with a much broader product scope.

Lisa said the brand is also doing extremely well with women’s heels, with many styles completely selling out each season.

And the Autumn 09 collection will introduce a whole new concept in presentation for T.U.K., filled with ‘mini ranges’ driven by themes.

“Our platforms and super platforms are totally different to anything else available and just seem to be capturing customers imaginations.

“Most of our UK retailers will start with some of T.U.K’s lower heels and maybe just one platform but before long they’re ordering and reordering the super platforms and telling us the positive responses they get from customers.”

Lisa said: “We have a lot of fun here at T.U.K and that’s echoed in our designs and the response we get from our customer.

“Ultimately we hope the future continues to bring us all enjoyment as well as prosperity which has always been – and I’m sure will continue to be – the key to T.U.K’s success.”

News British footwear designer Cleo Barbour has launched her debut collection.

The Cleo B autumn/winter 09 range is made up of 20 different styles including peep toe wedges and heels, classic courts, shoe boots and ankle boot.

All the designs have been inspired by the bird of paradise and feature signature acrylic, Swarovski and fabric detailing.

Cleo was educated at Cordwainer’s College at the London College of Fashion and trained at the Salvatore Ferragamo design studio in Florence.

Before creating her own collection, she worked designing couture shoes for Georgina Goodman and Nicholas Kirkwood’s Avant-Garde collection.

All brands must adapt to stay ahead

By Louise Cordell EVEN successful footwear brands must adapt to stay ahead in the current climate according to Ascot International founder Geoff Seth.

He set up the company in 1972 providing sports shoes to cater for the fitness boom of the 70s and 80s.

For years the brand produced a huge variety of trainers, football boots and squash shoes, but after over 30 years in a competitive market it needed to find a wider audience.

Geoff turned to market research in order to find out exactly what the consumer wanted and came up with three new ranges to attract a new type of buyer.

He said: “I feel we have avoided the main challenges facing established brands at the moment because our products are unique – especially the Azor La Mode range as we use an exclusive last.

“By being different from other shoe companies we manage to avoid suffering many of the headaches.”

The new ranges include a collection of high quality occasions shoes with two price points, a higher cost, hand finished line, and a lower priced, non-leather sole line.

A comfort range with a younger,

more casual look including leather shoes and flip flops in a variety of colours.

Finally, the newest collection, which is an arty, cult brand designed to be worn by a younger generation of DJs, musicians, artists, skaters and dancers.

To publicise this brand it has been affiliated with new movies, including the recent Jason Statham film Crank 2.

Geoff added: “We chose the new concepts by looking at the market and thinking about what shoe offerings we felt were needed.

“For the occasion shoes range we wanted to provide men with high quality shoes that were inspired by Italian design but for the younger range our focus was comfort and style.

“The main challenge when moving into a new area of design and retail is creating a range of shoes that consumers like and which will sell.

“However, there are benefits as well, because if you can come up with styles that are differentiated from other players in the footwear industry, then competition is diminished and you can achieve more success.”

Shoes an ‘untouchable luxury’ WOMEN are still splashing out on new shoes despite the ongoing credit crunch according to a new survey.

instead women were giving up facials and handbags, calling them ‘expendable purchases’.

Nearly a quarter of consumers are refusing to cut back on shoe purchases, describing them as an ‘untouchable luxury’, whatever the financial circumstances.

Phil Rist, executive vice president at BIGresearch, said: “Today’s economy has had an impact on everyone and retailers are dealing with very different shoppers than they were one year ago.

The survey, carried out by BIGresearch and Stores magazine, revealed that shoes were off limits when it came to cutbacks, and

“While many people have opted to trade down, some refuse to sacrifice certain luxuries, cutting items they feel are expendable to compensate.”

News

Brand gets sporty to expand customer base

By Louise Cordell CLARKS is set to launch its first ever sports range in order to expand its customer base.

The collection will be available in stores this summer and includes Sports Life, a line made for specific sporting activities and Sports Style, a sports inspired fashion shoe.

Poltsa is launching a new range of Spanish handmade leather handbags for autumn/ winter 2009. The Artisan range, hand crafted following local traditions, is made from soft leather and combines different textures and seasonal colours. In addition to handbags the collection also includes leather belts, coin purses and handbag hangers.

Schuh welly exchange SCHUH is launching its first ever ‘Welly Exchange’ at festivals this summer, offering visitors the chance to keep their feet dry and contribute to charity at the same time.

The idea is that when festival goers get tired of their muddy and ruined sandals or trainers, they can visit the exchange to swap them for a brand new pair of wellies.

Their discarded shoes will then be collected by the European Recycling Company and shipped to third world countries where they can be cleaned up and sold on – creating a much needed local industry.

All the money made from sales is kept by the local people and it is also a cheap way of providing cheap footwear for those who couldn’t normally afford it. As an added bonus, it will prevent festival organisers from having to deal with piles of shoes normally left behind after events and reduce the tonnes of unwanted shoes that end up on landfill sites once the season is over.

The Schuh Welly Exchange will be appearing at festivals throughout the summer from Rockness in Scotland to Oxegen in Ireland, offering wellies in sizes from three up to 12.

After 30 years on the UK footwear market, Pod is undergoing a retro revival.

As the new brand licensees since 2008, Aegis Shoes are taking the designs back to their summer of 1976 roots.

The campaign will include the relaunch of the Pin-Punch stitch out shoe with original features like the trapezium logo and Pod man swing tags.

The Pin-Punch shoe is part of the Pod Natural range, which also includes the brand’s latest designs such as their natural foot-shaped boat shoes and urban hikers.

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Paul Townsend, Clarks Sport trade marketing manager, said: “We made the decision to introduce a sports range as we recognise how universal the world of sport is in today’s market place.

“We wanted to ensure our business was versatile enough to react to the demands of our consumers.

“While there will always be challenges when launching a new range, particularly in the current economic climate, we are confident that our products will introduce a freshness to the sports market and meet the demands of our consumers.”

The collection includes several new technological innovations developed exclusively for Clarks Sport, including the Atsu massage footbed, which improves blood circulation to invigorate feet, and the Rock outsole, made from an advanced rubber compound to deliver grip, stability and abrasion resistance.

Paul added: “The main challenge in moving into such a specialist area is that of credibility.

Companies venturing into this arena have to ask themselves what they offer that makes them relevant.

“However, we are a trusted brand that has stood the test of time, we are footwear specialists and have an abundance of expertise in how feet move and need protection during physical activity.

“We have initially launched Clarks Sport by focussing on servicing

specific sports categories that we can deliver with credibility.

We will then build our base from here.”

The Sport Life Openair collection features lightweight, protective boots and shoes for hiking, trekking and urban walking.

Also within Sport Life is Studiozone, a range designed exclusively for women, including the Inca Slip, a shoe featuring the Atsu massage footbed and created for general studio training activities and for those who spend an extended amount of time on their feet.

Within Sport Style, the men’s freestyle collection features Plato Lace, a training model built on a running silhouette, while freestyle for women includes Jave Lace, the first women’s shoe to feature Active Air with Airflow System.

ROCCA International offers a high fashion range of sandals, shoes and boots in leather and synthetics.

The company provides wholesale stock during the season as well as a made to order option.

There are three ranges available including Red Girl for the latest styles, Igual for leather Spanish boots and Rocca for leather designs, made in Portugal.

Other styles include Jetty Wave, the classic court shoe updated in stylish leathers complete with leather linings, and Jewel Lace, a contemporary sports fashion look delivered as an elegant classic running silhouette.

Paul added: “Clark Sport is a longterm commitment for the company.

“We are investing heavily in product development and also ensuring the range has the marketing support it needs.

“We have already developed two new and unique fit-for-purpose technologies for our Sport rangeso we are in this for the long term.”

Kool for Kids Podlers’ new Solar collection is set to be launched in stores this summer.

The shoes have been designed to aid the natural development of children’s feet with lightweight, sturdy and flexible rubber soles.

The full range is also made from soft, breathable leather for extra comfort.

Distribution handover THE distribution of Superfit children’s shoes in the UK and Ireland by Bramwell International is set to be handed over to the manufacturer Superfit/Legero in July. The company will employ the existing sales team in the UK and Ireland and co-ordinate both logistic and financial support from their head office in Graz, Austria.

A key part of Superfit’s UK offering is a year round ‘Back to School’ range and, for spring/summer 2010, the company will be launching its first UK adults’ collection.

Baby range features over 40 styles BABYSHOES carries one of the largest in stock ranges of continental baby shoes in the UK. It has over 40 styles and 12 colours.

Established in 1936 by the present owner’s uncles, Trevor – who now runs the company – changed from supplying ladies’ and gents’ shoes to just baby and children’s shoes imported from Spain and Portugal.

It has a next day delivery service free on orders over £250 but does not have a minimum order, so you can order anything from a single pair to a new shop full.

Babyshoes has won numerous awards for its customer service and quality of products, but its finest accolade has been its inclusion in this

year’s Who’s Who of Britain’s Business Elite.

The company has showrooms in Glasgow, Manchester and Birmingham for any customer who wants to view the full range.

For information contact Trevor on 01512 803049, e-mail: babyshoes@blueyonder.co.uk or visit: www.babyshoes.co.uk.

Fly London have launched a kids’ range for autumn/winter 2009. The collection of boots and shoes for girls and boys comes in colours and materials including patents and waxed leathers in red, purple, green and turquoise, with sizes from 28 to 41. The brand are now looking for select kids’ retailers and footwear stores to carry this brand.

Early Days, the Leicester-based baby shoe manufacturers, are enjoying their busiest trading in recent years.

The company attributes its success to the tremendous reaction to their latest collection and the quality of their product and service.

Specialising in baby footwear from birth to three years since 1952 EarlyDays like to think they provide a style for every occasion.

For further information please visit their website: www.earlydays.ltd.uk or if you would like a copy of their latest catalogue please email: sales@earlydays.ltd.uk or call: 01162 716944.

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Accessories

Umbrella company makes a splash with 20m brollies a year THE Susino Umbrella Company was founded in 1995 in Fujian, China.

It produces over 20 million umbrellas which are exported to more than 128 countries and territories including the United States, Italy, Japan, Russia, Lebanon, Brazil and its latest venture saw Susino open in Liverpool in 2007.

Susino has also manufactured garden and event parasols and other packaging solutions for other companies’ products.

More recently the company has begun to manufacture and sell reusable shopping bags in a range of designs and styles to cater for the reduced demand for plastic bags.

Show gives crucial buying opportunity NOW celebrating its 48th anniversary, the Home and Gift show brings together over 11,000 visitors and 950 exhibitors each July.

It presents a crucial buying opportunity for retailers to place orders for Christmas and source new season stock.

Picture Case is launching its unique range of light ABS trolley cases, in 20", 24" and 28" sizes, with distinctive designs and images incorporated on the case.

The launch will include the ‘Design’, ‘Celebration’, ‘National’, ‘Football’ and ‘Travel’ ranges, with more to follow.

12 ISSUE 53 JUNE/JULY 2009

Product categories appearing at the show include general gifts, design led gifts, collectables and traditional gifts, home accessories, greeting cards and stationery, china and glass and fashion accessories and jewellery.

This year’s show is 85 per cent

booked, with key exhibitors One World Trading, Gisela Graham, Jan Constantine, De Montfort Fine Art, India Jane, Coeur De Lion, Libra Company, Rex International, Enesco, Salco Group and many more confirmed.

For 2009, Home and Gift has also attracted 200 new exhibitors such as Cocoon U, Five Dollar Shake, Nour London, Shruti Designs, Owen Barry,Takkoda, Hot Munkey, HHJ Trading and Hunter Gatherer.

Throughout the event there will also be seminars, retail surgeries and product features as well as a range of social events.

News An online vegan boutique that offers ‘killer heels without the kill’ is attracting fans from around the world. Clare Childs launched Neon Collective just six months ago with the aim of providing responsible luxury – Out On A Limb finds out how.

Taking the kill out of killer ...

NEON Collective is the world’s first online retailer dedicated to the best vegan designer shoes, handbags and accessories.

The web-based boutique was launched by Clare Childs in November 2008 in an attempt to provide ethical footwear fans with a one stop shop and to prove to sceptics that vegan fashion can stand up to

mainstream competition.

She said: “As a vegetarian myself, I was always trying to source high end, vegan shoes and though there were lots of smaller designers scattered around, there was nowhere that brought them all together and made things easy for the consumer.

With this site all the leg work has been done, and shoppers can be confident that all the products have been carefully vetted to make sure they are vegan, ethically sourced and from environmentally responsible suppliers.”

The site’s ethical policy means it will not sell any product that contains any animal derived product, that is made in a sweatshop or by children or if its manufacture causes needless pollution. Once the supplier has met these criteria, the styles must then make the cut as a fashion must-have to meet the Neon Collective objective of ‘responsible luxury’.

Brands stocked on the site include Beyond Skin’s luxury line Sui Generis, New York label OIsenHaus, Terra Plana, Po-Zu, a vegan alternative to the sheep skin Ugg boot and exclusive designs from Italian brand Kailia Footwear.

Clare added: “I always think that if people are going to buy vegan shoes on the grounds that they object to animals being

harmed, then they should also avoid anything that causes human or environmental harm too.

“However, it is also very important to me to keep the site’s offering very fashion focussed.

“Vegan shoes have had a bad reputation in the past, but now there are some great new technologies available and new designers emerging who are really pushing the boundaries. At the end of the day it is unrealistic to ask most people to buy based purely on the product’s ethics – they need to fall in love with the design first, and this way people can have both.”

The website is now set to expand with the inclusion of a series of videos showing filming at the factories where the shoes and bags are made, interview with the designers and catwalk shows of the

all the products.

The aim is to give the customer the chance to see the entire chain of production so that they can feel connected to the effort and care that goes into the process.

Clare has also started working with UK firm Jinga Shoes, which produce Brazilian trainers, to release a special edition, Neon Collective style made from recycled truck tarp canvas.

She added: “We are branching out into a lot of new things and I am also keen to expand into men’s and children’s styles as well as women’s.

“It would also be great to have a high street presence at some point – I think that while people are happy to shop for shoes online, as a rule they prefer to be able to try them and I would like to offer that.

“It would be a risk move at the

Retailer invests in ten new UK stores EUROPE’S largest shoe retailer is investing in the UK high street with ten new stores due to open this year.

German company Deichmann, which has more than 2,500 shops in Europe and the US, already has 31 outlets in the Midlands and the North of England.

It now plans to expand into the South East by opening a flagship unit at the Westfield Shopping Centre in London.

The retailing giant expects to invest approximately £4.5m on store development and create 150 new jobs in the UK before the end of the year.

Heinrich Deichmann, the CEO of Deichmann Group, said: “The UK is a key market for us. We see a great deal of opportunity for expansion here across the next ten years.

“Even with the difficult economic environment we see a positive

Heinrich Deichmann

pattern of opportunity and will scaleup our presence accordingly.

“The nature of our business means that we are able to finance our plans organically without the need to raise external capital.”

The retailer has been looking at taking on some of the vacant spaces left by stores including Woolworths and Zavvi, as its ‘self-service’ stores need a much larger floor space than the average footwear outlet.

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New products and accessories

Summer love

Romotion agreement

ORIGINALLY launched in the 80s, the Padders Pedalos brand quickly became a fast-selling value range.

Caught in the doldrums, Pedalos were waiting for a fair wind, in the shape of Debby Cooper, Padders’ design manager to re-float the brand. She said: “I’m really excited about Pedalos and think they have huge potential. I would like the collection to have a younger, fun feel that appeals to a lady who wants to look stylish but doesn’t want to spend a fortune doing so.”

Debby has created a highly commercial collection that has a wonderful holiday feel – think sparkling sunlight glinting off warm azure seas, exotic flowers and sunny,

ROMIKA has announced an agreement with footcare retailer Shuropody to stock their new Romotion range.

The new Romotion range technology aims to support a natural way of walking and can help improve general foot problems including flat feet, arthritis and relief for the Achilles tendon.

Research has shown that the average person makes between 8,000 and 10,000 steps per day, which can weaken the tendons or overload the foot joints leading to the emergence of foot problems.

The Romotion range includes a removable insole that provides a soft foot bed, optimal pressure distribution and an ergonomically formed heel to stabilize the foot.

Martin Ingram, Romika UK and

secluded coves. Offered in an array of styles and warm Mediterranean colours, pretty floral detailing, leather uppers and linings and cushioned, lightweight soles, Pedalos exceed all expectations. And with a retail price of just £39.99 you realise they could be the best thing to wash up on your shore next summer.

For more details contact Mike Rowe on 01536 534976 or e-mail: mike@padders.co.uk

Ireland MD said “Romotion is suitable for everyone in their everyday life and fits perfectly with the Shuropody ethos of holistic foot care. We are delighted that thanks to this new agreement more consumers will be introduced to this exciting new product addressing their foot health concerns. Romotion footwear activates the foot and its muscles leading to a more natural way of walking.”

Ion-mask first for Van Dal team THE Van Dal team has taken delivery of the UK’s first production ion-mask machine.

Van Dal will be only the second consumer brand not just footwear in the world to launch products with this technology, only previously seen on a technical walking product in autumn/winter 2008.

‘Ion Mask’ is used on suede shoes and boots for autumn/winter

14 ISSUE 53 JUNE/JULY 2OO9

where it repels substances like water, oil and red wine to substantially reduce the risk of staining. It also helps to keep feet dry and the shoes/boots looking new for longer. Applied through the use of a plasma the nanotechnology enhances the shoes on a molecular scale.

As a result the ion-masked Van Dal shoes remain lighter, cleaner and are more breathable than conventional untreated footwear.

New Products/accessories

ARE you ready and looking for something truly different and exciting in fashion footwear?

If the answer is 'yes', let us introduce you to Grotesque footwear.

Grotesque, as the name describes, offers extreme beauty and a real alternative to the footwear trade.

The range, aimed at leading independents and boutiques, has just been launched by Blast Footwear based in Northampton.

This exciting range offers both men’s and women’s footwear and boots ranges made from the finest quality leathers and lasts imaginable.

Quality, styling and finish were the keywords when this brand was created by Geert Slaats, a leading footwear designer, two years ago in Holland.

A real labour of love, the range features materials and finishes rarely available or afforded by the trade including hand tumbled vegetable tanned leather and calf linings amongst many other feature leathers.

Grotesque proved very popular at its launch in the UK at February’s Pure show in Olympia, picking up 18 accounts across the UK in its first season.

With prices ranging from £65 to £100 wholesale, it may not be the cheapest but they are a real alternative for any footwear store.

To prove its appeal and the confidence in its design and concept, the brand is offering a no minimums policy to any store looking to carry the brand allowing them to effectively trial the range, making this a bespoke brand.

The brand can be viewed online at :www.grotesque.be and will also be showing this summer at Bread and Butter, Micam and GDS. Appointments to view the range can also be made with Nigel Styles, the UK sales manger, either at your store on at the Northampton showroom.

Nigel is available on 0797 662 8269 or e-mail: nigel_styles@hotmail.com.

To see the latest collection from Grinders call: 01245 465050 or e-mail Gerald@grinders.co.uk

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Advertisers Announcement

A new fashion trend excites all high-heel-addicts all over Europe.

Stiletto Cuffs are fancy and decorative, and they guard everything they get in touch with: shoes, floors, and last but not least the women - whether in Ascot or the streets of London...

Introducing the brand name Heaven on Heels, a young German company called Dreamware just conquers the market. So far, they offer 2 models (called Classic and Diamond Rings) in many colours and various styles. The patented stiletto cuffs are made of elastic material, and a soft inner winding guarantees a perfect fit on thin heels of various shapes.

Shoe brand stores like Stuart Weitzman offer the “Stiletto Cuffs“, and high class fashion boutiques in Germany, Switzerland and Austria just discovere the product line. Heaven on Heels were used as VIP gifts during film award events, and many trend magazines in TV and printed press - such as ELLE, COSMOPOLITAN and ICON provided broad awareness. The manager of the company (and designer of the product) plans to go to U.K. fairs in near future, although “we are extremely busy right now and have to manage rapid growth in our home market - but we look forward to introduce Heaven on Heels to the British customers“. For contact and details: www.heaven-on-heels.com

16 ISSUE 53 JUNE/JULY 2009

News

Anniversary celebration for Chic CHIC is set to celebrate its fifteenth anniversary as the UK’s only trade fair dedicated to fashion accessories and travel goods.

Organiser Michelle Chappell said: “We are proud to be celebrating our 15th anniversary this year.

“More than double our original size and with so many new and exciting products which are either launching their new brands at Chic or showing with us for the first time in the UK. “Antler will be showing all their luggage ranges plus their new Bramble and Brown and Gracie Mae brands, and we have some fabulous jewellery brands as well.

“It is so exciting to see so much enthusiasm and drive from these new brands especially when all the news is about gloom and despair.

“I really hope that our buyers support all the new brands and the companies looking to enter the UK market.

“It is essential for independent fashion stores to be looking out for something new and different, and I hope that the Chic show will give everyone the chance to try something a little different to attract new customers to their stores.”

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Sector set for shake-up says new report

THE UK footwear sector is set to face its biggest shakeup since the demise of the British Shoe Corporation according to a new report.

Verdict Research has concluded that a large part of the lower and middle price footwear business is now facing the risk of collapse, leaving only a few large scale specialists and the more premium companies surviving.

The report warns that this could lead to many hundreds of empty shops left on the high street.

Maureen Hinton, lead analyst, said: “The past year has been especially challenging for footwear specialists.

“Like other retailers they face falling demand allied with rising costs, but the imposition of anti-dumping

import tariffs combined with a weakening British pound worsened an already bad situation.”

The report showed that by the end of 2008, out of ten major footwear chains, four were loss-making and none made an operating margin of over ten per cent.

It also claimed that footwear specialists are set to lose out on even more business to non-specialists, especially clothes stores that are able to easily increase sales with the addition of a small footwear department. It names New Look as an example, which has become so successful in selling shoes that this area now accounts for around 20 per cent of its sales.

Maureen added: “As the specialists

hit financial difficulties, their first response is to shed unprofitable stores. At the current rate we believe at least 350 stores could disappear as companies downsize – but it could be as many as 1,000.”

The report claims that there are only a few key areas left where specialists will be able to capture the market share, including the comfort segment, niche young fashion and premium.

Maureen added: “There could be as much as £600m expenditure up for grabs, but outside these areas, the possibilities for survival of specialist footwear chains will be limited, and only those that can create significant economies of scale are likely to be able to survive.”

Guide offers swollen feet advice to retailers A FREE guide to fitting footwear for swollen feet has been published

by Cosyfeet to help educate retailers.

The guide, by orthopaedic footwear consultant Gwenda Carter, explains what sort of footwear is suitable for swollen

feet as well as advice to give to clients about buying footwear.

It also features a section on socks and hosiery for swollen feet.

David Price, Cosyfeet MD, said: “Healthcare professionals are

increasingly called upon to treat injuries caused by poorly fitting footwear to patients with swollen feet.

“This guide is designed to provide essential information to pass on to patients with potentially vulnerable feet.”

Advertiser’s Announcement

News

Beatrix collection inspired by fairies Beatrix Ong has released a fairy-inspired collection for autumn/winter 2009.

Colours and textures include hot pink and purple, metallic patents and exotic skins like cyber python and holographic lizard.

Classic stilettos, hidden and visible platforms, flat pumps, shoe boots and Victorian inspired, kick flare heel lace up boots are all featured in the range.

Every shoe in the collection has been named after a fairy, including Nixie, a classic stiletto court, Donella, a lack up ankle boot, Gullveig, a high heeled loafer and Shaylee, a perspex and satin sandal.

Beatrix has also created an exclusive limited edition collection of five key styles from the collection which will be available exclusively at Dover Street Market from July 2009.

High quality entry prompts contest extension THIS year’s Cordwainers student design competition has been extended due to the high quality of entries.

London College of Fashion had been collaborating with VivaLaDiva.com to find the most talented student shoe makers on the course.

However, because the judges loved so many of the designs they have decided that they will now choose more than one winner, and offer VivaLaDiva.com customers a range of styles. Rachele Hopkins from VivaLaDiva.com said: “When we saw the final ten students we were so impressed with the quality and standard of the work we were literally spoiled for choice.

“That’s when we thought it would be a great idea to get feedback from our customers to decide which styles we should take into production.

“This could also potentially mean we have more than one winner if several designs prove to be popular.

“So we are currently creating a section on the website where customers will be able to go to see all of the finalists’ designs, preparation and personal profiles.

“This will hopefully give our customers a flavour of each of the student’s style of design and will also help to build the profile of the final ten designers.”

A special section of the website will be dedicated to the Cordwainers project and customers will be able to leave their comments on all the final styles.

Once they have looked at all the feedback, the judges will then make a final decision on which designs will be permanently available to buy.

The collection of spring/summer 10 styles will then be launched in January.

Rachele added: “We are all really excited about the project and we can’t wait to hear from our customers to see what they think.”

Work shoe collection launch CROCS has introduced a new range of anti-static footwear which has been specially designed to be worn in the workplace.

The work shoe collection has been tested to the latest European standards and can help to dissipate electrostatic charge Three new models, Fuse, Fuse Vent and Energy have been created to

be suitable for the medical sector, the food industry and clean rooms and other laboratories.

As well as the anti-static properties, they feature a thicker metatarsal area to protect the top of the foot, are made of odour and bacteria resistant material and can be cleaned and sterilised in bleach and water.

Performance

Investing in training reaps benefits FOOT specialists Anatom, and distributors of performance outdoor products including Superfeet insoles and TEKO technical socks, has been delivering bespoke and in-house training to retail and allied health professionals since 1994.

Anatom Academy training courses take place in the spring and autumn each year and are delivered by fully qualified personnel.

Fergus Paton, northern training manager, said: “In the past month or so I’ve travelled the length of the country visiting retailers and one thing has been made clear to me: those who have invested in a culture of excellent customer service are positively thriving or, at

least, riding out the current economic climate better than those who haven’t.

“One thing they have in common?

They have taken steps to equip their staff with the knowledge and confidence to serve each and every customer who enters their store.

“In other words, they consider staff training as a smart business investment rather than a vague and unnecessary expenditure.

“We know that consumers are savvy and are looking to spend their money wisely.

“With the bewildering range of fabrics, materials, sizes, cuts, fits and applications available to them we also know they’re more likely

Umbro has launched a limited edition range of football boots – the England Speciali.

Only 283 pairs have been produced by the company in order to mark the launch of the new England home shirt.

The Speciali has been developed to display simplicity over modern designs, including integrated technology like covered lacing for ball control.

The boots are made from Italian K leather and feature the new England crest on the outsole.

Each pair has its own number stamped on the presentation box lid and also includes a boot care kit.

to seek out retailers they trust for their product knowledge, credibility and level of service, happy that they are getting the best advice available.

“Quality training inspires and motivates, educates and intrigues and helps distinguish knowledgeable staff as an intellectual asset compared to competitors.

“This culture of training and development has proven itself in the past by helping staff make the most of every customer visit (especially when footfall is in decline) as well as develop customer loyalty at the same time.

“Staff need confidence in themselves as well as excellent

product knowledge in order to approach customers whether it be for an informal greeting or to help the customer find what they’re looking for and, ultimately, ensure that the customer has everything they need – ignore the up-and cross-sell opportunity at your peril.”

BERGHAUS has updated and improved its Explorer boot range for summer 2009.

The designs have been enhanced with new developments and styling and there are now three separate lines – the Ridge, Trek and Light, all available in men’s and women’s specific fit. The boots combine high quality leather with a Gore-Tex membrane to prevent water entry and are well cushioned for comfort on difficult terrain.

The Explorer Trek is a classic fell walking boot with an ergonomic holding system to keep the foot in place for effective performance.

The Explorer Light has been created for warmer climates offering grip and breathability with lighter weight components.

Fila serves up boost for young players FILA has launched its 2009 Wimbledon Footwear collection with the sponsorship of 12 young British Elite tennis players.

The brand will be supporting athletes including Melanie South, Amanda Elliott, Josh Goodall, James Ward and Chris Eaton, all tipped for British tennis success this summer.

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As the official footwear licensee for Wimbledon, Fila has created a full range of dual branded performance and lifestyle footwear ISSUE 53 JUNE/JULY 2009

– including the Fila Alfa Wimbledon performance shoe.

The shoe will be worn by the ball crew for all matches at The Championships, Wimbledon and is available with a hard court and grass court sole unit.

This month Fila will appear as the official apparel and footwear sponsors for The Aegon Championships at the Queens Club, featuring the world’s top male players.

Performance teams up with eco-friendly in new range THE Timberland Company has launched a new range of technical footwear that aims to combine performance with eco-friendly credentials for the first time.

The Mountain Athletics collection is made up of styles suitable for adventure racing and trail running and features soles made from a recycled ‘Green Rubber’ compound.

Designed for high impact, multi-sport activities, every style has an independent suspension network system, stability control frame and platform differentiation.

The All Mountain styles feature added protection in the toe area, while the trail runners are more breathable and flexible.

Performance

Designed with the British consumer in mind ...

By Louise Cordell NEW British brand CÀRN has launched its first outdoor footwear collection for 2009. The range has been specially developed for the UK market and includes styles for on and off road running, walking, trekking and hill climbing.

Richard Dean, founder and director, said: “The shoes were very much designed with the British consumer in mind and are classic, easy to wear and fit for purpose. During our three years of research we found that a lot

of brands do everything they can to publicise the high technical angle.

But while this is important, when we spoke to retailers we found that it was the more traditional styles that were selling best. When we put the designs together we wanted to find a balance between the technical performance and everyday use, so all the technology is concealed inside the shoe – doing its job rather than drawing attention.”

Richard claims that although it is a difficult time to be launching a new product, they have found that the

Performance test: MBTs THE day I thought I would wear a pair of rocking thick soled, sport trainers did not even enter my head until I decided to invest in a pair of MBTs. I was assessed on my posture before even walking out of the door and my initial thoughts were, well I have no time to go to the gym so I will give them a try.

The information pack in the box including the CD was very informative on how to wear them properly and what results I could expect from wearing them on a regular basis, I also needed to know if a previous knee operation I had had would be affected.

I realised that MBT has an academy expert Joshua Wies, chartered

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physiotherapist and MBT Academy director that could advise me and I was pleased to know on calling him and after a discussion that I would be fine wearing my Chapa Sports trainer.

It did feel a little strange with the rocking action of the sole and even within an instant of putting these on I had no option but to stand upright, shoulders back and bottom in.

I initially wore them in the office, I thought this would get me used to the stairs and get a general feel for them, they were exceptionally comfortable and very light, even stood talking to someone my posture was improved upon, although I did get some strange looks from people as they are not the most attractive

outdoor market is still buoyant and outdoor activities are actually increasing in popularity.

Their research also showed that the kind of outdoor footwear being stocked by retailers has not changed much over the last few years, leaving the way open for them to introduce something new. He added: “While the response to the product has been fantastic, there is no doubt that buyers are being cautious. It is easy to understand because if they already have a successful outdoor range on the wall, then taking on a

new product is a gamble, and this is not the time to be gambling.

However, many other retailers believe that having a new product on display draws in the customers – so it can also work in our favour. ”

by Beverley Green, Out on a Limb sales manager some of the claims made by this type of footwear, trying it for myself has convinced me that the claims are correct. Well worth the investment.

The facts:

looking and look a little strange with the rocker bottom.

After wearing them for two months I have noticed a definite improvement in my posture whilst walking and standing, they also seemed to have toned my stomach and buttock muscles, despite scepticism about

Unlike ordinary shoes, MBTS distribute pressure equally across and along the whole foot, with each step we take, pressure acts on the foot, MBTS distribute this load evenly, which prevents ailments that can be caused by the concentration of pressure on individual points.

Masai Barefoot Technology in everyday use can train muscles, burn calories, and protect joints, all while you’re doing something else.

Shopping, in the office, at home.

MBTs act as training equipment, every step of the way.

News

‘Supply chain is everything’

By Cris Stephenson I WAS struck by a comment Sir Philip Green made on Radio 4 recently.

Looking at pressure on retailers to be competitive in a rocky climate, he said that the supply chain is everything. No one would doubt his opinion, but there’s a lot to that seemingly simple statement. In the same programme Sandra Halliday mentioned the importance of fast reaction to opportunity: in fashion, miss a trend and it’s gone forever.

Putting the right product in the right place at the right time is always important, but in a recession it’s absolutely fundamental. Driving efficiency into the supply chain, and driving costs out, has to be a prime focus.

I’m not going to preach about reverse logistics, cross-docking, consolidation and all those other big desirables. Most people know elements like these could make a difference, but between every retailer and the ideal supply chain there is the pain of change. And that preconceived misconception is

trapping retailers between a rock and a hard place. They need to change to remain competitive, but in a depressed market they can’t afford interruption.

But change we must. The winners will be the retailers who can change, and who do it rapidly. Twelve weeks’ stock might simplify the logistics, but you pay for it in flexibility as well as overhead. And pushing the problem down the chain to the supplier is a temporary fix at best: you can’t risk supplier relationships for short term gain. Brands like Jockey have been smart enough to see the opportunities in fast change. We worked with them to rationalise seven warehouses into one – in seven weeks. Hard times demand hard decisions, but rapid change now will ensure survival, bolstering your position throughout the difficult period and positioning you to emerge as a stronger, more competitive business.

I Cris Stephenson is divisional managing director of TNT Fashion Group

Just the ticket for travel ...

TRAVELHARBOUR has been working with the British Footwear Association as preferred travel agent for several years, getting deals for clients in the fashion and footwear trade.

These include flights, accommodation (and car hire) for the various overseas exhibitions they attend but

also long haul trips for sourcing and sales purposes. By utilising the latest technology, along with private airfares and preferred hotel contracts, the company aim to save clients’ money and time. They are currently booking for Bread and Butter, WSA, GDS and Micam.

27 ISSUE 53 JUNE/JULY 2009

News With sales and footfall down further than ever, retailers are increasingly reluctant to get saddled with stock that just won’t sell. Out On A Limb talks to the brands and agents on the front line to find out how consumer research and a tailor-made offering can increase sales without increasing spend.

Forging links between brands and retailers is key BUILDING long term relationships between brands and retailers is the best way for both to succeed in the current economic climate according to industry expert Derek Bowen.

Derek is northern European sales director for CAT, a brand which has introduced a new way of working with stores in order to maximise sales.

He said: “What we have done is divide up our collection very clearly by style, price points

and target consumers.

“We have also put a lot of resources into getting to know the stores we sell to and finding out exactly what kinds of product work well for them.

“This means that when we approach retailers we can do so with a personalised and tailored collection.

“We see it as our responsibility as well as theirs to make sure they have the right stock, and are not left with products that don’t sell.”

The brand offering has been split into four consumer types, ‘Style Seeker’, ‘Open to Influence’, ‘Function First’ and ‘Safety Required’.

This allows buyers to pick and mix what they take on, in order to match their particular selection of consumers and what they think they are looking for.

The brand also spend time

in the stores, observing consumers and price mixes, looking at differences between various branches around the country and drawing conclusions from the findings.

Derek added: “Our aim is to share our business thinking and try and link that in with the retailers’ consumers and business plans – and this has been very well received.

“One retailer said to us – ‘You know more about business than we do – you are very clear on what our business is about’.”

The brand’s aim is to be in regular communication with retailers, rather than just twice a year when new collections become available.

It has found that the process has been well received which in turn has increased trust, both in CAT and its advice.

are working in.

“People are encouraged by fresh thinking and today’s market is all about intervention versus risk.

“We have had to re-educate buyers about what we have to offer – and we do that by understanding their businesses, meaning we are in the best possible position to compete for shelf space.

“Matching up the right product and the right distribution always leads to success.”

Far left: Legendary Raw collection and, left, women’s collection

Derek added: “This approach shouldn’t really be anything new or different – all brands should understand the landscape they

‘Brands and agents should be raising their game’ WHILE retailers face an increasingly tough market, brands and agents should be raising their game to help increase sales, according to Caprice agent Stephen Joseph.

Hard work and cooperation is the advice from Stephen who has worked for a footwear agent for the last seven years.

He said: “Business has changed a lot because in the past there was a degree of blind loyalty and many retailers would use a particular agent just because they had always used them.

“But that is no longer the case, and it is the agents who work harder and offer a better service that get the lion’s share of the budget.

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“These days agents have to be more like business advisors – understanding their price points and ISSUE 53 JUNE/JULY 2009

who their market is, and presenting them with what will work for them.

“Those who don’t adapt will not make it through.”

Stephen has found that many retailers are panicking because of the downturn, and resorting to buying cheaper and cheaper shoes.

However, this just means that they are selling fewer units at a lower price - so profits are sliding further than ever.

Instead, he has found that the successful ones are taking on midrange stock, meaning that they have to sell fewer units to make a profit which makes the best of the lower footfall many are experiencing.

He added: “Retailers are currently experiencing a difficult time and adapting to that with a no nonsense attitude.

Stephen Joseph of Caprice

“If a brand isn’t performing then they won’t be buying it in, they can’t afford to have any stock that isn’t pulling its weight.

“At the end of the day it is a

challenging time, but the strong brands, agents and retailers will come through. Those who are greedy with their margins, who aren’t proactive or who provide bad service will not.”

Retail solutions and technology

Bringing testing services and support to the leather industry BLC offers testing services and support to all branches of the leather industry.

To ensure compliance with legal and social requirements, and ultimately brand protection, BLC has created a comprehensive chemical and physical testing package for footwear testing.

Footwear testing includes fingerprinting, chemical and physical testing.

Fingerprinting is carried out on the leather components only, to determine how the product should be labelled.

Chemical testing mostly consists of the restricted substance list which is built into individual retailer specifications.

The restricted substance list includes routine leather tests such as Chrome VI, PCP, Azo dyes, Formaldehyde, as well as:

Heavy metals testing – in accordance with EN71-3, which can be modified when working with adult footwear, including CPSC lead testing for the US market.

Phthalates – for soling materials, to determine whether any of the six banned phthalates are present.

Dimethyl fumarate (DMF) testing – BLC offers DMF testing in leather, footwear, product or anti-mould sachets. Products containing DMF are banned in Europe.

Organotin compounds – although these are only legislated against in water systems and paints intended

for the maritime industry, they should also be tested for in all materials as a safety measure.

Allergens – BLC can test for potential allergens in leather and footwear.

REACH – BLC can assist with any testing, support or the REACH screening process to meet the requirements of the REACH regulation.

If a failure occurs BLC has the inhouse knowledge and experience to identify the reason behind the failure and make recommendations to resolve it. BLC also offers a comprehensive, technical and commercially focused fit assessment service for both children’s and adult footwear.

For further information visit: www.blcleathertech.com or contact: info@blcleathertech.com.

Website helps industry tackle the recession INDEPENDENT retailer Rachel Parkin has launched a new website aimed at helping the industry tackle the recession.

The site, at www.retailrehab.co.uk, is free to use and offers advice on growing sales, employment and branding, as well as tips on marketing and PR. Rachel said: “At the end of last year, when everyone was panicking about the recession, I started wondering what could be done that would be positive and useful in the current climate.

“I work as both a supplier and a retailer so I felt I could see things from both sides and felt that there was a gap in the market for a site that offered practical advice.

“Independent retailers are part of quite a fragmented industry and when you have a small business you have to be an expert in everything, which is difficult.

“But the principles behind success are the same all over the sector - so I think people could learn a lot from each other. I wanted to provide a place where people could share their different skills and pick up tips on the things they don’t know so much about.”

The site already has over 500 subscribers and has received a positive response from people throughout the industry.

Downloads include tips on everything from search engine optimisation, dealing with staff, how to get free PR and how to use your resources is the most effective way.

Rachel is also hoping to gather submissions from other experts in order to provide a comprehensive guide that can be used by independent retailers of any size and experience.

moment is ‘don’t panic’. It is important to keep making the right choices and not allow yourself to become either complacent or paralysed by fear. In this kind of situation the game is raised, and everyone needs to work harder to keep up.

She added: “I think the most useful advice we can offer to people at the

But this shouldn’t alarm retailers – they need to remember that there

Solving display problems MOVETECH UK (the new name for British Turntable) exhibits at the In Store Show for the very first time, demonstrating its distinctive position as one of the UK’s leaders in PoP and rotary display movement.

Movetech UK’s comprehensive movement portfolio solves many display problems, not least in helping to create cost-effective and eyecatching displays that can save on space and increase sales.

More than 100 standard options are available, from small battery operated pendulum and rotary PoP movement to large carousels and revolving stages, a range that is hard to beat.

And with Movetech UK’s HGV access

turntables speeding up delivery turnaround times, and Hovair air film technology an integral part of the wider Movetech UK portfolio, the company can also provide total turnkey movement solutions for the retail industry.

More information is available from Phil Childs on: 01204 537680, e-mail: display@movetechuk.com or from the website at www.movetechuk.com/display.

are opportunities out there if they are in a position to make the most of them - and hopefully this site will help them do that.”

Rachel now plans to launch an online discussion forum as part of the site when retailers can talk to each other, swap ideas on best practice and share their skills to help keep the sector afloat.

New terminal introduced TOSHIBA Tec has introduced the new WILLPOS B20 modular terminal.

It is designed to reduce environmental impact and perfect for retailers who wish to protect their existing IT investments, minimise downtime and have a cost-efficient upgrade in the future.

Providing flexibility and scalability to meet even the largest retailer’s pointof-sale requirements, the WILLPOS B20 has been designed to include a powerful Intel Celeron M processor 945GME resulting in a highly stable point-of-sale platform.

This faster processing time not only improves customer throughput, but guarantees a future-proofed solution for any potential changes in

application software platforms.

The superior performance of the WILLPOS B20 enables the POS to have the capability of a resilient server, removing the need for a back-office PC. With front and back tool-less ‘slideout’ components and fewer internal cables, servicing the WILLPOS B20 is quick and effortless.

For more information contact 0870 8907200 or visit www.toshibatec-eu.co.uk ISSUE 53 JUNE/JULY 2009

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