The West Wind

Kayaking down the Kouga

By RICHARD COWLING

It’s hard to imagine, in this decade of drought, kayaking down fast-flowing rivers on the Kouga coast. But the rains will come again, and there is a bundle of fun out there for those willing to risk the wildness of our rivers.

Our most doable river for white-water kayaking is the Kouga, which rises in the western Kouga Mountains near Uniondale and joins the Gamtoos River below the now near-empty Kouga Dam. From the Stuurmanskraal causeway, west of Joubertina, to Doodsklip campsite, at the head of the dam in the Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve, there is about 100 km of navigable river. Another jump-in spot is Brandekraal causeway, where the Suuranys road from

Kareedouw crosses the river. From there to Doodsklip is 70 km of wild country with no vehicle access.

THE SCENERY IS SPECTACULAR. THE KOUGA RIVER HAS, SINCE THE BREAK- UP OF GONDWANA ABOUT 140 MILLION YEARS AGO, CUT A DEEP CANYON THROUGH THE SOFTER SEDIMENTS OF THE CAPE ROCKS, PRODUCING SPECTACULAR SANDSTONE CLIFFS THAT PLUNGE INTO THE RIVER.

The valley walls are clad in fynbos, grassland or thicket, depending on the aspect, soil and slope – an ever-changing kaleidoscope. The steep rock faces support a rich, cliff-loving flora including several species that grow nowhere else.

© RICHARD COWLING

The 100 million year-old canyon of the Kouga River, incised into the hard, Cape sandstones, is an impressive a piece of wilderness that offers exhilirating kayaking when there is sufficient flow. Looking south with the eastern Tsitsikammas on the horizon.

© RICHARD COWLING

Kouga Flame Lilly (Cyrtanthus flammosus) is a stunning, summer-flowering lilly restricted to the steep rock faces of the lower Kouga valley. While cliffside living may be precarious, it provides a haven from hungry porcupines.

© RICHARD COWLING

White water comprises about half the navigable extent of the Kouga. Most of the rapids are benign but there are some tricky sections especially below Brandekraal. We paddle sit-on, single-person plastic kayaks; others have used sit-in plastics (with a splash cover) or inflatable kayaks (crocs). Whatever the craft, wear a helmet and a life jacket.

DON’T ATTEMPT THE RIVER WITHOUT INCLUDING SOME- ONE EXPERIENCED IN YOUR GROUP. RIVERS CAN BE VERY UNFORGIVING, THREATENING PLACES WHEN THINGS GO WRONG; AND THEY DO GO WRONG.

We have witnessed kayaks wrapped around trees, paddles disappearing into strainers (tangled heaps of woody debris) and life-threating spills in rapids where paddlers are pinned against rocks by their boats. Bear in mind there are no easy escape routes from this wilderness.

MOST IMPORTANTLY, ANY BOUT ON THE RIVER MUST COINCIDE WITH AN ADEQUATE FLOW OF AT LEAST 10 CUMECS (CUBIC METERS OF WATER PER SECOND) PASSING OVER THE STUURMANS WEIR, JUST BELOW THE JUMP-OFF SPOT.

Flow data are beamed from the weir and can be read from a website.

© RICHARD COWLING

Alternatively, the flow can be adjudged from the amount of water flowing over the causeways at Stuurmanskraal and Brandekraal.

ONE OF THE BIGGEST HEADACHE IS CO-ORDINATING THE DROP-OFF AND PICK-UP LOGISTICS.

© RICHARD COWLING

© RICHARD COWLING

© RICHARD COWLING

Thrills and spills on the Kouga River. About half of the 100-km navigable stretch is white water. The paddler in the top-right photo is in a dangerous situation, pinned between boat and rock.

There are no roads that hug the river so one is forced to make long and exhausting detours to ensure a vehicle at the end of the line.

For example, 180 km of mostly poor road separates Doodsklip at the end, from Stuurman’s at the start.

Difficulties aside, kayaking the Kouga River is an exhilarating experience.

© RICHARD COWLING

Quiet water provides opportunities to enjoy the spectacular scenery. But beware when the breeze from the sea picks up in the afternoon as a tormenting head wind.

© RICHARD COWLING

IMAGINE YOURSELF RACING DOWN A BELTWAY OF SPARKLING WATER, AIMING FOR THE PEAKS OF THE EVER-GROWING STANDING WAVES, WHIPPING PAST (AND OVER)SUBMERGED ROCKS, WHILE MOUNTAIN REEDBUCK AND KLIPSPRINGER GAZE ON IN AMAZEMENT FROM THE STRONGHOLDS ON THE VALLEY WALLS.

Come evening, your group finds a sandy beach and grassy bank, and settles into the Zen-like state of preparing camp. And all the time, the river flows on, later lulling you to sleep with its distant roar of rapids.

© RICHARD COWLING

© RICHARD COWLING

The Kouga Dam overflowing, a sight we will see again, and an indicator of a strong-flowing river.

© RICHARD COWLING