Simple and delicious: Black loaves matter

The joy of discovering epicurean talent is ever evolving, and I had the pleasure of visiting Chesil Smokery in Bridport.

On an overcast, chilly April day, the sun conspicuous by its absence, I opened the door to the smokery saturating my senses and moving them into overdrive. The charring pungent scent of woodsmoke for me a comforting aroma evoking many childhood memories.

I was born in Essex, famous for its cockle sheds and blackened smokehouses. Cockle shell mounds were my playground and sixpenny bowls of fresh shrimps and cockles a regular treat. Chesil smokery are passionate about their products, evident in the quality and care shown, they are innovative with their many products and ideas from meats to fish, they have embraced the challenges of lockdowns and inflation with an indomitable attitude. I was both impressed and heartened by their dedication. Their smoked salmon is a flawless artwork of perfection. I would recommend a visit.

Black Bread

I first came across black bread in a Auberge in Northern France. We arrived for a late lunch and was presented with seafood platter accompanied with thin slices or delicious black bread, so simple, so delicious. Dense in texture, it has a nutty favour. Serve with pâte, or smoked salmon with creme fraiche, pickles, eggs, horseradish sauce, cucumber, parsley and chopped onion.

Ingredients:

2 x 7 g packets of fast-acting yeast

2 tablespoons dark brown sugar

2 tablespoons treacle

100 g unsalted butter

25 g dark cocoa

300 ml dark stout

350 g rye flour

400 g strong bread flour Salt

Method

Warm the Guinness in a jug, add butter and allow to melt, add the treacle to the warm liquid.

Mix all the dry ingredients together, add the liquid. Draw it all together, it should feel a little sticky, but firm and dense. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead it well.

Pop the dough ball into the bowl, cover with a damp tea towel and leave in a warm place for two hours, or until it has doubled in size. Preheat the oven to 180ºC/Gas 4. On a floured surface, knock back the dough and place in greased loaf tin. Leave to rise in a warm place. When risen, place in the oven for 50 minutes to 1 hour, or until crisp on top and cooked through – it will sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Enjoy with a chilled glass of spicy gewürztraminer.