Walking through the ruins of history

The viewing area above the Isle of Portland’s Penn’s Weare offers a view that is hard to beat. East, the view is across Weymouth Bay to Purbeck, Worbarrow Tout and St Aldhelm’s Head. South, and you trace the rocky east coast of the island, the undercliff with its many paths, and the dip around into Freshwater Bay, frequently softened by sunlight through spindrift, thrown up by the constant collision between rocks and water. Then, though not so far distant, the Bill of Portland and our iconic lighthouse that has shone out over 117 years to tell passing mariners: ‘We are here!’

The path down to the viewing area is a delight too. Starting at the wonderful museum at the bottom of Wakeham, the lane in front of the museum takes you by a wide path under Penn’s arch by ancient Rufus Castle, the first building known to have been built from Portland stone, and onto the viewing area. Below you will see Church Ope Cove, with its beach huts nestled against the undercliff, a scene you’d expect to find much further west on this coast.

The path down is stepped but steep, but on the right halfway down there’s another path, a rocky ascent between ancient stone walls that brings you to the ruins of St Andrews, Portland’s first parish church. Originally a Saxon chapel that was replaced in the twelfth century and later significantly altered, it was in the 1600s that two landslips brought the building to a point beyond repair. A new church was built, St George’s at Reforne, and old St Andrew’s was largely demolished leaving the romantic ruin we see today. But even now it is under threat. During lockdown it was found that people had removed stones from the wall to build a campfire, splitting some of the stone. Some pieces of carved masonry had been removed altogether and, to make matters worse, the retaining wall built after the last landslip had started to give, threatening the whole site. Concerned that the ruins could be irretrievably damaged, a local group, the Portland Buildings Preservation Trust, called a meeting with Portland Museum, a neighbouring private landowner and the Penn Castle Estate, whose properties border the site. With Historic England, who responded magnificently with detailed surveys, archival studies, and reports to establish ownership, a plan was made to stabilise and conserve the ruins, both as an historic structure and a reserve for wildlife.

Chris Holleyoak, managing director at Penn Castle Estates, said, “Penn Castle Estate values Portland's heritage and we’re glad to be working with Portland Museum, Portland Buildings Preservation Trust and Historic England to conserve and maintain St Andrew’s for residents and visitors, both now and in the future. We have been working with the museum developing a Church Ope Cove trail that is very much valued by our guests and other visitors as they discover Church Ope Cove and its abundant history.”

I’m happy to report that this work has now begun. St Andrews, along with Rufus Castle and the two windmills nearby are the only remaining medieval buildings on the island, so their importance cannot be underestimated. The ruins are still accessible and it is a lovely spring walk from the viewing area to the ruins then, through the arch up through Penn Castle woods to the road.

It is steep and uneven, so you do need to be surefooted and reasonably fit. If you’re feeling more adventurous, a path behind the beach huts at Church Ope takes you on a stunning walk along the undercliff and, with just a short road section at Cheyne Weares, a beautiful cliff walk all the way to the Bill.

Refreshments can be found at Penn Castle’s Hayloft Café or in cafés and pubs at the top of Wakeham in Easton and at the Lobster Pot at the Bill.