To The Manor drawn, for a better battered fish

From Swyre on the B3157 a country lane ambles down towards the sea, passing fields of lambs and pasture to the village of West Bexington. The Manor Hotel rests whimsically overlooking the seascape that is Lyme Bay. A warm summer’s evening, the sun still high in the sky, the sea twinkling against a sapphire sky; how lucky we are to live in such a stunning place.

The Manor, always a favourite, has seen some changes of ownership in recent years but has never disappointed. It’s a comfortable place to eat, no matter what time of year or what the elements outside throw at you. In the winter a roaring fire bids you to stay, and the summer draws you outside into a pretty garden. Thursday evening and The Manor House was busy, with the contented murmur of happy diners. I enjoyed one of the best battered fish with chips I have ever had. The fish was moist and a generous portion. Hublet, predictable as always, had the fish pie which, he remarked, is consistently good. We had a lovely, relaxing evening and watched the sun slowly slip into Lyme Bay’s pocket for safe keeping, until another day.

Given our experiences as happy customers at the Manor, and as a former restaurateur, it was a nasty surprise to read a negative review of it in a little local magazine. Unlike some other magazines, the WDM does not publish bad restaurant reviews. We consider them in bad taste. If for some reason I do not enjoy a meal, I just won’t write about it. Food is a personal preference. Hospitality has been hit the hardest in this present economic climate –it’s hard enough without petty, negative comments. Why did this amateurish writer feel it necessary to harangue overworked staff just because he got ice when he didn’t want it, the chips were not hand cut or the peas were frozen? Fresh peas don’t happen to be in season, you know… Unfair censure can destroy morale, and livelihoods –and this writer seems to be making a habit of it, with a review of another local eatery recently bemoaning what they thought was poor ‘signage’. Now, did that really spoil the enjoyment of a meal? Get a grip!

I also read on social media about establishments appealing for people to ‘behave’ and not be rude to staff. This is inexcusable; do people really need to be reminded how to behave? Everyone is trying their best to keep prices down, battling against rising energy bills, food prices and difficulty recruiting staff. I mean, who wants to work in an environment where all you get is abuse? If you want hand cut chips, expect to pay a higher price for that predilection! It’s easy to be a ‘benchwarmer’ critic without experience and knowledge of just how hard work the catering industry these days can be.

Mum’s Kitchen... with Diana Holman

Strawberry and Hazelnut

Streusel Cake

This lovely summer cake is a little more trouble, with three mixtures to prepare for layering, but the results are delicious.

Ingredients:

Cake batter:

100g blanched hazelnuts

200g butter, softened

200g caster sugar

4 medium eggs, whisked

100g self raising flour

2 teaspoon mixed spice

Fruit Mixture:

550g strawberries, hulled and halved

2 teaspoons ground ginger

2 tablespoons castor sugar

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Streusel Mixture:

50g blanched hazelnuts

50g butter

60g self raising flour

1 teaspoon mixed spice

100g jumbo oats, toasted

60g demerara sugar

Method:

Preheat the oven to 200C/180C fan. Grease and line a 20cm springform round cake tin. Line a baking tray with baking paper.

To prepare the fruit mixture, mix the strawberries, ground ginger, caster sugar and lemon juice. Tip onto a lined baking tray and roast in a pre- heated oven for 15 minutes.