Ouse News - Autumn 2023

Great Ouse Branch

Ouse News - Autumn 2023 Newsletter covering the Great Ouse and tributaries Contents: Branch Committee

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Branch News

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Chairman’s Corner

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Middle Level report

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Lock-keeper of year p10 Book Review

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Bucket List Cruise

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The ‘Beez Neez’ in Portishead Marina see page 14

Campaigning for the conservation, use, maintenance, restoration and development of the Inland Waterways.

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the Inland Waterways Association or of the Great Ouse Branch. They are, however, published as being of interest to our members and readers.

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Great Ouse Branch Committee: Chairman: Keith Alderton Tel : 01366 727236 Secretary: John Hodgson Tel : 01234 344884 Treasurer: Enid Hodgson Tel : 01234 344884 Ouse News Editor: Carole Alderton Tel : 01366 727236 Membership Officer: Peter Webb Tel: 01353 658581 Member: Stephen Foote Tel: 01763 838936

Do you have a few hours to spare? We need your help!

We are a small, friendly group and desperately need more committee members to help us organise meetings and events. One committee member has just resigned due to personal circumstances and there is the possibility that two more could retire within the foreseeable future.

Please contact the Chairman.

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Branch News Winter Meetings are at 8.00 pm at the North Lodge Pavilion, North Lodge Park, Milton, CB24 6UD.

T HURSDAY 22 ND F EBRUARY 2024 This will be an illustrated talk by Nick Balmer of RevIvel, a volunteer based community organisation working to save the upper River Ivel.

M ARCH 2024 (DATE TO BE CONFIRMED) This will be our Annual General Meeting, together with an update from the Environment Agency.

T HURSDAY 24 TH O CTOBER 2024 This will be an illustrated talk by our Chairman, Keith Alderton, entitled The Cut-Off Channel - conceived in 1642 and completed in 1964.

We welcome the following new members to the branch. We hope you will introduce yourselves to us when coming to an event or meeting:

Mr & Mrs J Evans, Deeping Gate, Peterborough

Mr & Mrs Evans have transferred from the dormant Peterborough Branch

If anyone is reading this newsletter and would like t o b e c o m e a m e m b e r, please contact Peter Webb, our Membership Officer, on 01353 658581.

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Chairman’s Corner First time boater (The Chairman is going down memory lane!)

Well, here we are again at the end of another boating season! I must say that from our point of view it has been a good year, during which we have enjoyed two prolonged trips, the latter being a very leisurely cruise up the Grand Union to Warwick, staying for several days in the Saltisford Arm. Here, the Saltisford Canal Trust provides full boaters’ facilities set in very pleasant, quiet surroundings, a few minutes walk from the centre of town.

Locally, a series of severe autumn storms has caused the Environment Agency to issue a number of Strong Stream Advice Warnings restricting navigation.

Unfortunately the adverse weather conditions will have curtailed many boaters’ end of season activities prematurely. At the time of writing, we have managed to get off lightly compared to other regions of the country.

Following the decision to cease manning our stand at Ely Aquafest and Reach Fair, the branch committee has proceeded to sell off our gazebos, folding tables, etc. mainly to local charitable organisations. The small payments received have been returned to branch funds. The badge making equipment has been donated to the IWA Wild-Over-Water team and unsold merchandise such as fridge magnets etc. given to the IWA Canal Cavalcade/Crick Boat Show stand organisers.

I am sorry to announce that Gail Mead, our volunteer co-ordinator, has decided not to renew her membership and moved on to pursue other interests. I would like to thank Gail for her valuable contribution to the branch and wish her well for the future. As often stated, the branch committee comprises a dwindling band of dedicated, long serving (and dare I say aging) members. A new contingent of enthusiastic, younger, forward-thinking members will be required if the branch is to survive in future years.

Ouse News Page 5 We kicked-off our series of off-season talks in October with a presentation

by Nicola Oldfield, the recently appointed Chief Engineer of the Middle Level Commissioners. Nicola outlined the history of the MLC and brought us up to date with the recent legislation that enables them to charge boaters fees to navigate their waters. See the full report on page 6. The November meeting comprises a talk by David Partridge, River Patrol Officer of the Conservators of the River Cam. Please note that we have now arranged for Nick Balmer of the Revivel Association to provide a presentation on the 22nd February 2024. The Association is a community organisation with the stated aim of restoring water to the upper Ivel. The river is a little known tributary to the River Great Ouse and as such is on our patch.

You may recall that in the last edition of Ouse News I reported on the planning process for the construction of a major new sewage works beside the River Cam at Waterbeach. It now appears that somewhere in the small print, it says that the navigation will be closed, without stating that this would be temporary. An urgent clarification is being sought.

In October, the branch committee met Howard Osborne of the Great Ouse Rivers Trust to find out what the Trust was about and to explore matters of mutual interest. We have subsequently invited Howard to address the branch membership at one of our future general meetings. Howard explained that he realised the Great Ouse had previously been unrepresented on the Rivers Trust, a national organisation promoting the environmental welfare of some 65 river systems. Howard, along with a small group of enthusiasts subsequently rectified this by forming the Great Ouse Rivers Trust. The Trust describes itself as being ‘an environmental body dedicated to protecting the River Great Ouse and tributaries, lakes, wetlands and wider catchment for the benefit of people and nature’.

Finally, I would like to echo the call from IWA HQ to actively participate in the campaign to ensure that our waterways are adequately funded. The latest severe funding cuts are a body blow to our navigation authorities and could well eventually herald the closure of some navigations.

Keith Alderton

Ouse News Page 6 The Middle Level Commissioners A presentation to IWA Great Ouse branch by Nicola Oldfield Ing.Eng., MIEE, ACIWEM, Chief Engineer In his essay to Charles Ist in 1642 (‘The Discourse’) Sir Cornelius Vermuyden wrote ‘I find it fitt…to divide the Great Level into three parts…the North Level, Middle Level and South Level’.

In her most professional presentation, Nicola explained that the Middle Level Commissioners were formed to manage the drains and waterways in the ‘Middle Level’ following the break-up of the old ‘Bedford Level Corporation’. Numerous parliamentary acts were passed early in the 19th century to enable the formation of the Commissioners.

The statistics are surprising. The Commissioners are responsible for the drainage of 70,000 hectares of land. This involves managing the water levels on 190 km of drainage channels, of which 160 km are officially navigable. The levels must be managed to a tolerance of no more than +/- 20cms.

The Commissioners liaise closely with the numerous Internal Drainage Boards of the area, and have close ties with DEFRA, the Environment Agency and local councils.

The Commissioners are also the area’s navigation authority (and the 4th largest in Britain). With the passing of recent Acts, they are now entitled to charge licence fees and insist that craft using the navigation have Boat Safety Certificates. They may also remove craft which are causing an obstruction or moored illegally. They have powers to prosecute those who flout the regulations and clearly they are prepared to enforce compliance where necessary. (The days when pleasure craft and lighters carrying ‘manures, dungs and fertilisers’ were exempt from charges are now gone!).

Ouse News Page 7 A considerable amount of infrastructure is employed to maintain the system. 5 locks, several sluices, two pumping stations (Bevill’s Leam and St.Germans), three weed-cutting boats and more besides – plus a small department of professional engineers who keep the whole lot working! Bank maintenance is a high priority and whilst the Commissioners don’t actually own the banks, they have a permissive duty to maintain them. On the canals, dredgings must be carefully disposed of - on these navigations the Commissioners use them to continually build up the banks.

Looking forward, the Commissioners are very aware that the facilities available for boaters’ convenience are few and far between and they acknowledge that this situation must and will be improved. Water points, moorings and sanitary facilities are all on their priority list. It will take time of course but everything is moving in the right direction.

The audience asked many questions at the end of the presentation. The situation in regard to Welch’s Dam lock was raised by several; Nicola explained that the 40-foot River beyond the head of Horseway Lock, Welch’s Dam Lock and the Old Bedford river (including the sluice at the entrance to the tidal Great Ouse) are under Environment Agency jurisdiction. However, Horseway Lock is owned by the Commissioners.

Questions continued after the ‘formal’ presentation and the audience left knowing a lot more about the Middle Level Commissioners than they knew when they arrived. We are very grateful to Nicola Oldfield for giving up her time to visit us.

A boat leaving Salters Lode sluice from the tidal Great Ouse onto Well Creek

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A very low bridge on theMiddle Level Navigation

A narrow boat entering Horseway Lock on the 40ft drain

Marmont Priory

Whittlesey

Two boats approaching Horseway Lock ‘stern to stern’ as there is nowhere to turn

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Mullicourt Acqueduct where the Well Creek crosses the Middle Level Main Drain

Two boats leaving Denver Sluice en route to Salters Lode and the MLN

Report and photographs courtesy of Stephen Foote

News & Views Do you have an article, comment or photo you would like to share? We would be very pleased to receive it! Contact the editor: carolealderton@waterways.org.uk

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Ben Di-Giulio Wins British Marine Inland Boating Lock Keeper of the year British Marine Inland Boating Vice Chair, Paula Syred, and Tracey Baxter – both of Fox Narrowboats, recently presented the Lock Keeper of the Year award to Denver Lock lock keeper, Ben DeGiulio, after gaining the most votes at the 2022 Inland Boating Conference.

Ben, who is the first winner from the Anglia Region, had been lock keeper at Denver Lock for seven years before moving on to pastures new, and when asked what he had enjoyed most about the role Ben said: “Talking to the boaters and hearing about their adventures”.

Tracey Baxter from Fox Narrowboats commented: “Ben was liked by all the holiday boaters for his cheerful manner and helpful advice, even going the extra mile and posting photos of them on his Denver Lock Facebook page which the company then shared with the individuals”.

The award was handed over at the Heron Inn, Stowbridge overlooking the Great Ouse Relief Channel.

Paula Syred

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Bridge Boatyard Bridge Road Ely, Cambs CB7 4DY

email info@bridgeboatyard.com Website www.bridgeboatyard.com Telephone 01353 663726

Moorings in marina and on riverside in historic Ely. Close to rail station.

Repairs and servicing Engineering and glassfibre workshops Slipway Suppliers of diesel, gas and coal Authorised Nanni dealership Gas safe engineer

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Book/Game Review

by Stephen Foote

Nine Men’s Morris In a couple of his books, L.T.C.Rolt (author and one of the founding fathers of the IWA) makes an oblique reference to the ‘Nine Men’s Morris’.

I – probably like others – took this to be something obscure connected with the old ritual of Morris Dancing. But having asked a couple of people I know who are Morris Dancers they confessed they’d never heard of it and doubted if it was anything to do with the dances.

Nor is it. The ‘Nine Men’s Morris’ is an ancient board game, not dissimilar to draughts but somewhat more complicated. It is variously thought to have been invented by the Romans, the Egyptians and others, and is said to date back more than a thousand years. Archaeologists have discovered stones, tablets and engravings with the game layout carved on them.

It was very popular in medieval times.

This is a game for two players and is sheer strategy – there is no ‘luck’ involved, just skill. Which is why, when my wife and I play it, I invariably lose!

In the same way as draughts, it involves capturing your opponent’s pieces until he (or she) have none left. Then you’ve won. The rules, however, are curious and quite complicated. Here is not the place to go into them – but it’s a good idea for players to familiarise themselves with the strange ins and outs of the rules of play (because if you don’t, and your opponent has – you’ll lose!).

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What has this to do with boating and waterways? Well, not a lot other than the somewhat tenuous connection with Mr. Rolt. But if you are on your boat with a partner and can’t travel for any reason or are moored up for the night, arm yourself with a decent bottle of wine and settle down to a few games of Nine Men’s Morris. Great fun!

As far as I know, the game is only available in the UK from Brimtoy Ltd. and they only sell through retailers so you can’t buy direct. Amazon is the place to look I think. The game board and tiles are wooden, beautifully made and presented, and not as expensive as you might expect Recommended.

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This is part one of a Bucket List Cruise by Gt Ouse Branch Member Graham Schneider The facts of this cruise are: we travelled 636 miles using 11 canals and 5 rivers. The crew dealt with 299 locks and 52 swing or lift bridges. It took us a total of 11 weeks and to condense it into one article is impossible. We started preparing for this trip in 2015 having purchased a newer boat in the July. The Beez Neez is a 59ft narrowboat made by CJ Reeves and fitted out

by Weltonfield Boats. She has a Lister Canalstar 4 cylinder engine.

In February 2016 we started to prepare the boat and assembled the crew.

So the team was: The Beez Neez (TBN), Sue the mate and Graham the skipper. First action was the crew requirements, the mate said she needed a washing machine so the skipper had to purchase and install it. Next item was to have the diesel fuel polished (cleaned). Then a redundant vent in the hull had to be sealed as it allowed too much water into the engine room and could have caused problems in rough weather. We also decided to have a new cratch cover and what is commonly known as a pram hood fitted at the back end.

From Stafford to Bristol: April 2016 all planning was completed and we set sail from Stafford Boat Club heading south along the Staffs & Worcester Canal.

The first part of the trip was uneventful until we stopped a few miles down the canal at Penkridge. We did a little shopping and on return to the boat none of the onboard electrical services were working.

Not covered by our RCR, the skipper had to start learning about his new boat. Luckily it was a simple problem, the main fuseholder was defective. A replacement from a nearby chandlers soon put us back on track.

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Ouse News Page 16 The trip through to Wolverhampton was through pleasant countryside and uneventful. The weather appeared to be our friend and was warming up.

Having travelled this route before we knew that there were good moorings at Wightwick and there is a nice detour on foot to visit Wightwick Manor.

For followers of William Morris and the Pre-Raphaelites it is a must. The sun continued to shine and every day we stopped at lunchtime for a towpath feast. One of the very interesting set of locks on the Staffs & Worcs Canal is The Bratch Locks.

They are an attractive location with an octagonal toll office and the secret of the three locks is the impossibly short pounds between the bottom gates of the upper lock so close to the top gate of the lower one.

Made possible by the side pond off to the left of this picture beyond the towpath.

The view beyond the towpath at The Bratch The Language of this area makes you proud to be British! Where else would they refer to The Bratch, quickly followed by Bumblehole Lock Bridge and nearby is Giggetty Bridge. Wonderful!

The next part of our cruise takes us through Kidderminster and on towards Stourport-on-Severn. As we entered the port through the upper basin the locks were in use by boats coming off the river, so it would be rude not take part and get ourselves on to the great River Severn.

Ouse News Page 17 Suddenly TBN picks up speed with good water below the keel and we are off towards Worcester. It was a cold but bright day and shows just how beautiful the River Severn is. It did not take us long to go through Lincomb Lock which led us to another one of those lovely named places, The Burf.

Then through Holt Lock, passing the recently re-opened Droitwich Barge Canal and Bevere Lock to arrive in good time for Worcester. There are good visitor moorings near the racecourse but we decided to settle on the visitor mooring pontoon just outside the entrance to the Worcester & Birmingham Canal at Diglis. Only a short walk from the City centre and Cathedral but quiet enough.

The crew decided that TBN had worked hard enough so decided a couple of days visiting the city would be suitable. That and a few hours for the first mate to put the washing machine to good use so that we have clean togs for the next part. Our visit to the city was full of interest and well worth the time.

We had never been further south on the River Severn so the next part and on to the tidal river into Gloucester Docks was to be the start of our new experiences.

It was a lovely Sunday morning. One of those sunny but cold crisp days when everything takes time to wake up including the crew. The boat was up for it and we very quickly got through Diglis Lock and then passing by Tewkesbury to Upper Lode Lock. The skipper had a good chat with the lock keeper who was very helpful and assured us that we would reach Gloucester Lock before the tide went. It was a bit awe inspiring on the tidal river to Upper Parting where the navigation enters a narrow channel and the river carries off to the right (that’s the section of river that causes the bore on certain tides - we don’t want to go that way!). As we enter the east channel the navigation becomes more winding so I was a bit surprised to see a ‘Rib’ coming towards me in full flight. Blue lights on the top and everything! They slowed down on our approach and passed, then I heard the outboards open up again and off they went.

Ouse News Page 18 We were travelling with the tide and probably doing about 6mph. I was concentrating on the river ahead because I was aware that the entrance to Gloucester Lock can be tricky and I wanted to make sure I approached it correctly. Suddenly! The ‘Rib’ was back coming up behind me, no slowing this time he had gone before I had blinked. The purpose of his speed is that of training, for it was a vessel used

by Gloucester Fire Service and was on a training mission. I enjoyed it and made TBN move just like she was at sea which of course may be the next exciting part of the journey.

But for now we sedately enter Gloucester Docks and the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal. Our mooring in Gloucester Docks was just beside the historic Lock Warehouse.

Gloucester is a city that we had not visited before, so yet again TBN was going to have a couple of days off. The weather seemed to be improving so walking around Gloucester was very relaxing. Only one problem was that the Waterways Museum was closed for refurbishment. All that way and we missed it.

Gloucester Docks has been subject to refurbishment and all the warehouses have been converted to shopping areas and posh apartments. It is nice to walk round and there is still a working boatyard specialising in repairing and servicing some of the tall ships.

For those of you who have not yet visited the River Severn and the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal I should let you know that the locks and moveable bridges are all manned and controlled by CRT staff so put the windlasses and muscles away for the time being.

Ouse News Page 19 Before setting sail to explore the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal we had to ensure that we avoided the rush hour 08.20-09.00hrs so that the Llanthony bridge keeper would raise the bridge. We also telephoned him prior to moving within the docks. It all went smoothly. From now until we arrive in Sharpness all the bridge keepers will be watching out for us. The bridges all have traffic lights and when the keeper has seen you the red light starts to flash. When the bridge hole is clear for you to pass the light goes green.

Don’t jump the gun because there may be other boats coming the other way so wait for the green. This is a very sophisticated way to deal with bridges not like other canals on the system! This particular canal is only sixteen and a half miles long and strangely has a higher speed limit than others at 6mph.

Another difference to other canals are the very stylish bridge keepers cottages with Palladian-style fronts (mostly now sold off for private use). Almost halfway along the canal is Saul Junction where the old Stroudwater Canal used to cross taking water traffic from the River Severn towards the Cotswold Canal and on towards the River Thames. Some of it is still in water but lots of it is unavailable for boats. There is a waterways trust making every effort to get some of it reopened but I doubt if it will be in my lifetime.

A few miles on is the village of Frampton on Severn. A very attractive village and boasts the longest village green in the country. The village shop, known as ‘the shop on the green’ does a good trade and homemade victuals including pies/bread to die for.

The Bridge at Shepherds Patch is a very worthwhile stop as it is only a short walk to the Slimbridge Wildfowl Trust Centre. The Centre, founded by Peter Scott, is worth giving up a day for, but do remember to wear good walking shoes. They do cater very well for those with other needs and there are lots of seats all around the site.

Ouse News Page 20 The next stop we had to make was at Purton. Known as the barge graveyard, it is a very interesting place to visit. Unused boats and barges have been purposely run aground on the river side of the canal to protect the canal banking from being scoured by the fast flowing river. At low tide it is easy to walk off the towpath and alongside the river to see the hulks. There are lots of them and an organisation called Friends of Purton have placed plaques on most of the sunken craft just like gravestones.

Our next task was to contact the Gloucester Pilots to ascertain if we would be able to get a pilot to take us on the epic trip from Sharpness to Portishead. We both agreed that we would give one week to get the right weather window. If it didn’t happen in that time frame then we would change our route. I rang on Tuesday morning and they said Thursday was looking good but it would be an early start. I bit the bullet and agreed. I had to book the Sharpness Dock swing bridge with the pier keeper and he told us to be at the bridge at 6.30am and they would swing it. Mustn’t be late!! I also had to ring Portishead Marina to book our use of their lock.

They do two lockings per tide and if you are not there on time you have to sit on the mudbank in the river. Not something I wanted on my record.

Our pilot would let us know by text on Wednesday if the weather was being kind. They did and also told me that the pilot would meet us at Sharpness Lock at 6.45am for a 7.30 am start on the river. CRT had informed them that the swing bridge was booked as was the Sharpness and Portishead locks. Luckily they all talk to one another, very reassuring.

So, 5 am on Thursday, wakeup for an early breakfast and make sure everything is secured down ready for a sea trip. Off to the docks and we wait while the swing bridge is opened. The weather looked good but you can never tell with the sea. We cruised through the dock towards the lock entrance. The gates were already open so straight in and pull on to the side. First thing is, I get a rebuke for getting off the boat but it was only a gentle instruction I think.

At that point we meet our Pilot, Carl. He takes us through all the preparations and requirements for the craft and the crew. They had a ship movement booked after us so wanted us to lock down and sit on a pontoon outside.

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Carl wanted to try the helm of the boat and asked what engine revs I normally run at. He took the boat out of the lock and said that TBN felt strong so he would like to go a little early. Instead of sitting on the pontoon he would take her out beyond the breakwater. If it held its own against the tide or made small progress we would stay out there but if he was not happy he would come back behind the breakwater.

As we rounded the pier with the engine still running at a good rate, the boat just stood still against the incoming tide. Carl increased the engine revs up to 2200 and we moved forward, albeit slowly. Our pilot told us how the trip would be handled. We would sit just off the pier at Sharpness until the incoming tide slowed. Then we would move towards the coastline on our nearside, this would allow us to make better progress as the speed of the incoming tide was less there than in the middle of the river. When the incoming tide stopped, but before it started going out, we would cross the river to the Forest of Dean side. We would then be in a position to head straight down the river towards, and under, the first Severn crossing. We went straight though at 14mph (quite fast for a narrowboat I think).

Between the two bridges we would be subjected to large eddies but they should not cause any problem. (He wasn’t kidding some of them were 30 metres diameter and could have turned TBN round in her own length!)

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Harbour.

I am sorry that the crew got in this picture but it is the best one showing the angle of travel through the navigation arch of the second bridge. All the excitement now diminished we are on the final run down to Portishead Marina where we can sit out low tide before coming out again and retrace our steps to Avonmouth making our way along the Avon to Bristol Floating Harbour.

It was very pleasant to see that our Pilot, the Avonmouth VTS (Vessel Transit Service) and Portishead Lock Master all talk to one another by radio and phone to keep us safe. The journey from Sharpness to Portishead took three and a half hours lock to lock.

For those chuggers who think that filling locks is always done using paddles and sluices I have included the next photograph. How do they fill the lock? Well they open the rotary gates a little bit of course. No windlasses required here either. Whilst we had to pay for the use of the lock (£11.50 each way) there were no charges for waiting in the marina whilst the tide went out and started to come back in; 4 hours and it is a nice place to sit it out. Shops, Cafes etc.

Portishead Lock

Ouse News Page 23 The next part is where the skipper became really brave. As we are only at sea for 16 minutes the decision was made we do not need a pilot.

Whilst the River Avon has a high tidal rise it is also the same as most other gorge rivers and not difficult to keep to the centre. So 3.15pm we are waiting at the lock gate for the first locking down. The Lock Master told us that a large ship and tug were on their way to Royal Portbury Dock and would pass across the front of us so there was no hurry. We came out of the lock and kept alongside the pier then off towards Royal Portbury breakwater which we had to keep 50 metres to our starboard side. We could see the ship and tug just off to our left so we slowed and gave enough time for it to go into the docks. The Portishead Lock Master had told Avonmouth VTS of our route so we knew we were being watched.

Discretion being the better part of valour we decided to let the ship and tug go first. He was just a little bit bigger than us and of course only had certain channels he could use; best keep out of his way.

On the River Avon and under the Clifton Suspension Bridge we are well on our way to Bristol Floating Harbour. We telephoned the lock keeper at Bristol and he informed us that three boats were coming onto the river and heading towards the Severn and the lock would be ready for us. It was the biggest lock we have ever been in and we were alone, but the keepers were very helpful. Bristol Floating Harbour has very little flow on it and is used by all sorts of craft from paddle boards to steamers.

Our chosen mooring was the harbour inlet immediately opposite SS Great Britain. As we tied up on the pontoon I noticed that we were surrounded by restaurants and lots of people. I thought we may have made a mistake and it might be noisy, but I couldn’t have been more wrong. Yes it was lively up until 10pm then everything quiet ened down and it was very peaceful all night long. We decided to stay for three days.

To be continued ...

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The Inland Waterways Association is a non-profit distributing company limited by guarantee.

Registered in England No 612245.

Registered as a charity No 212342. Registered Office: 16B Chiltern Court, Asheridge Rd, Chesham, HP5 2PX. Phone No 01494 783453.