Travel New Zealand Magazine Summer 2013

OFF THE BEATEN

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Summer Edition 2013

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Track

ADRENALINE RUSH ACTION AND EXCITEMENT

BEERS AND BARS BARS THAT BREW THEIR OWN

SOUTHERN GREEN GOLFING IN THE NELSON REGION www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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EDITOR’S CORNER Managing Editor David McEwen Senior Designer Daniel Grey Content Manager Adrienne Zamor-Bongout Account Manager Jeremy Gervais jgervais@acornpublishing.biz Auckland Office Level 2, 14 Viaduct Harbour Avenue Auckland CBD 1010 New Zealand Free call: 0800 226 762 International: +64 9 375 6057 Queenstown Office Level 1, 11-17 Church St, Queenstown, New Zealand New Zealand Free call: 0800 226 762 Published by

ISSN 2200-5021 (Print) ISSN 2200-5013 (Digital)

Kia Ora When it comes to adrenaline sports, few countries can challenge NZ for the sheer range of sports in the most spectacular environments. Brian Butler, who doesn’t rate himself as an adrenalin junkie, forced himself to jump out planes and career down slopes in the interest of first hand experience, and came out the better for it. Read his account in this issue.

For those looking for a slower pace of experience, the stunning Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough beckons, with stunning coastal and ridgeline views and the food, wine and accommodation experiences to be had along the way. One hiker gives his first hand account of this trail.

Central Otago is a great place for cycling, and we review two newly opened trails creating a link from Alexandra to Lawrence, through spectacular scenery.

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We also take a closer look at the specialist beer market, as Jacob Hasler drinks his way through some of the country’s leading craft beer pubs. New Zealand has no shortage of bars and brewers, and yet a number of breweries are finding new beer niches between the existing niches.

Most regions in NZ have something special to offer the traveller. We cover the special traits of many of these regions, and add some surprising facts that even the locals might not know about.

Enjoy!

Hei konā mai David McEwen Managing Editor

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CONTENTS A SHOT OF ADRENALIN 8 IS CYCLING THE NEW GOLF? 13 GOLFING GREATS 16 BEERY NICE 18 THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK 22 REGIONS

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NORTHLAND

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MATAKANA

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WAIHEKE ISLAND

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AUCKLAND

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WAIKATO

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COROMANDEL

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BAY OF PLENTY

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HAWKE’S BAY

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TAUPO

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RUAPEHU

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ROTORUA

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TARANAKI

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WELLINGTON

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BLENHEIM

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NELSON

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KAIKOURA

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WEST COAST

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CHRISTCHURCH

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DUNEDIN

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QUEENSTOWN

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WANAKA

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TEKAPO

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SOUTHLAND

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FIORDLAND

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STEWART ISLAND

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f o T O A SH

Adrenaline

Brian Butler feels the fear and does some adrenaline sports anyway.

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am the sort of person who can’t watch a suspense or horror movie unless it is by peeping through my fingers, so the thought of jumping out of a plane or careering down a slope was enough to give me the jitters.

However, since New Zealand is the unchallenged adrenaline sports centre of the world, I felt I just had to give it a go.

There is a dizzying array of adrenaline and adventure activities in this country.

According to the tourism.net.nz website, the options include:

Bungy Jumping New Zealand is the home of modern bungy jumping. Bungy jumping is one of New Zealand’s most popular tourist attractions; everyone from schoolboys to grandmothers are strapping ‘rubber bands’ to their ankles and jumping off bridges and platforms. Bungy by yourself or tandem with a friend. Bungy with a foot cord or with a harness. You can even choose to get immersed fully in water on some bungy jump locations.

Canyon Swinging and Aerial Obstacle Courses Come and experience the ultimate adrenaline rush on a canyon swing at

the Mokai Gravity Canyon. Or get your blood pumping at the aerial obstacle course and dangle up to 20 metres above the ground.

Climbing and Abseiling Mountains are a dominant feature of the New Zealand landscape with both islands providing excellent climbing and abseiling opportunities. Climbing and abseiling in New Zealand is ideal for adventurers of all abilities, and offers the perfect training ground for overseas adventures as well.

Gliding and Paragliding Paragliding, also known as parapenting, combines hang-gliding and parachuting, where you sore above breathtaking landscapes in perhaps a less intimidating environment than parachuting.

Gliding involves an airplane without a motor, that “glides” through the air.

Jet Boating and Jet Skiing Miles of gorgeous coastline as well as picturesque lakes and rivers make New Zealand a haven for water activities. Jet boating in New Zealand is one of the most popular tourist attractions. Jet skiing is also a fun water activity in which you are towed behind a boat on skis.

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Kart Racing Kart racing in New Zealand is a whole heap of fun for the whole family, as well as a great way for aspiring racers to learn—teaching the art of driving, control and reaction times. Kart racing provides the thrill and excitement of motor racing for all ages in a fun and safe environment.

Rafting With an enormous number of relatively short, fast-flowing rivers, New Zealand offers a range of rafting experiences that can be safely enjoyed by most adult visitors. New Zealand rafting trips range from relaxing blackwater rafting through glowworm-lined tunnels, to adrenaline-pumping whitewater rafting through Grade 5 rapids.

Skiing and Snowboarding New Zealand is a recognised international ski holiday destination, with northern hemisphere skiers in particular appreciating our reverse seasons. New Zealand offers numerous ski areas with a wide range of ski facilities.

Skydiving Take to the clear skydiving skies above New Zealand’s beautiful countryside and jump from the plane, in one of the most exhilarating, adrenaline-pumping thrills you will ever find. Not for the faint-hearted, skydiving offers from 30 seconds of free fall over stunning scenery in picturesque locations throughout New Zealand.

The company has some legendary skydivers in its team and Tandem Master Brad has even had an MTV show made about him!

Skydivers have the option of jumping from two different heights, 12,000 feet (45 seconds freefall) and 15,000 feet (almost a full minute in freefall!) and there are seven different camera packages, to ensure you can record the event.

The ever-popular Freefall camera style is taken by a separate skydiver who will fly around, above and below you, shake your hand and generally perform some crazy antics! Then there is the Handycam style, filmed from a camera on your Tandem Master’s wrist, capturing those hilarious facials and the whole duration of your skydive, including the canopy ride!

TTS is also the only company in Taupo to offer the famous exit photo, an awesome shot that captures the thrilling moment seconds before you fall from the plane!

From 15,000 feet you can see coast to coast views of the amazing North Island, not to mention the snow capped volcanoes of Tongariro National Park and huge expanse of Lake Taupo, the Southern Hemisphere’s biggest lake that spreads out below you.

Skyjumping Skyjumping in New Zealand is a take on bungy jumping where jumpers, attached to a harness and cable, jump from the Auckland Skytower head first. Experience the thrill of falling to the ground below, while taking in the magnificent views across Auckland City.

Skywire Skywire is a kind of flying fox/chairlift combination adventure attraction found just outside of Nelson, in the upper section of the South Island.

Zorbing Zorbing is the latest craze! A Zorb is a large inflated plastic ball, with another ball inside in which you roll down a hill, reaching speeds of up to 50 kilometres per hour! Invented in this country, Zorbing is very safe and offers fun for the whole family.

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I decided to face my ultimate challenge – jumping out of a plane at 15,000 feet!

My first jump was with Taupo Tandem Skydiving.

Taupo is the original tandem drop zone in New Zealand, and Taupo Tandem have been skydiving over the beautiful Lake Taupo region since 1992. They have skydived over 180,000 tandem passengers!

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Skydive from 15,000ft with TTS, NZ’s originals!

After that heartstopping jump – and heartstoppingly beautiful scenery – I headed back to West Auckland to try a different sort of vertigo.

Nestled in the treetops of the beautiful Woodhill Forest, only a short drive from Auckland City, there is an adventure wonderland waiting to be conquered.

Tree Adventures is an exciting new outdoor activity where people can walk along ropes between trees. With 10

From jump altitudes of up to 15,000 feet, I could see 360 degree views of New Zealand’s highest mountains including Aoraki / Mt Cook and Tititea / Mt Aspiring. These tower over the World Heritage Mt Aspiring National Park, where glaciers feed forested river valleys and six lakes (Lakes Wanaka, Hawea, Dunstan, Wakatipu, Pukaki, Tekapo).

My jumpmaster tells me some of the Lord of the Rings movie series was filmed there so I keep my eyes open in case I spot a location.

Surprisingly, the plane flight to altitude is not cold. Once the door is open and during freefall all I felt a bit of a rush of fresh air! Certainly I was too busy thinking about and enjoying their skydive to worry about the temperature!

One thing that surprises a novice skydiver like me is that there is no sense of falling once you are out of the plane.

Freefalling is more like floating on a bed of air – you have no sensation of actually falling.

There is no age limit to skydiving, although those under 18 years of age will need the written consent of a parent or guardian. Skydive Wanaka’s oldest passenger so far has been 92 !!

different courses ranging from three to 14 metres above the ground, there’s something for everyone. Each course has a series of fun and challenging activities that wind their way through the treetops, ending with an exhilarating flying fox ride to bring you swiftly back down to earth.

Suitable for novices through to hardened adrenalin junkies, Tree Adventures provides up to three hours of thrills, laughter and adventure and is an unforgettable experience.

On average a course takes between 20-30 minutes to complete. The length of your climb depends on which adventure option you select.

The whole tandem skydive experience will take around 2-3 hours, not counting repeat views of the video, which is available as soon as we land.

Before you begin climbing you are taken through a 1520 minute safety demonstration led by a Tree Adventures instructor, giving you an opportunity to familiarise yourself with the safety equipment. From this point on you continue unguided, however there are Tree Adventures instructors stationed throughout the forest should you need any assistance or have any questions.

Down we go now to the South Island and it isn’t long before I’m leaping out of planes again, courtesy of Skydive Wanaka.

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Relax in 5 Star luxury vineyard accommodation, close to Airport and Christchurch. relax@clearviewlodge.com www.clearviewlodge.com

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Finally it’s time to try an activity that still gets the heart racing but is quite a bit closer to ground level – a cycle trek organised by Adventure South.

Adventure South has been operating active holidays throughout New Zealand for 20 years and offers a range of cycling, trekking and adventure itineraries.

There’s simply no other collection of New Zealand itineraries that can match the geographic coverage, originality and overall quality of its adventures, it believes.

For many years travellers to New Zealand have come to walk the classic trails like the Milford or Routeburn Tracks or cycle the West Coast roads.

These trails and routes offer a great insight into some awesome regions, but there are many, many more trails and cycling routes that are the new frontiers in adventure tourism - beautiful, scenic, and without the crowds.

Tim de Jong is typical of the motivated and experienced staff at the company. Before joining Adventure South around seven years ago, he had over 10 years on the road as a cycle tour guide, leading tours throughout New Zealand as well as in Australia, Vietnam, Italy and the USA. He has a special passion for Vietnam having traveled and guided there for many years and created Mekong

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Delta & Limestone Landscapes tours in this amazing country. During the busy New Zealand summer season, he coordinates the movements of a fleet of 13 vehicles, 120 bikes and around 15 guides, as well as occasionally being let out of the office to guide tours.

As guiding work is seasonal a tour guide needs to be multi talented and during the off-season our guides are involved in many diverse activities from managing skifields to courier driving to teaching and consulting.

Of course, to be a guide you must be a traveller at heart and many of our guides use the New Zealand winter period to travel, hike and cycle overseas.

Is Cycling the new Golf?

I am an enthusiastic - but decidedly amateurish - golfer and that also applies to my wheel-bound activities.

Therefore, my ears pricked up when I heard cycling described as ‘the new golf’ presumably because it is popular with middle aged people and can involve vast sums of money being spent on equipment. From my perspective, why buy when you can rent and I did just that from cycling specialists Adventure South.

Cycling has boomed in recent years as high profile international events are beamed into our lounges and the babyboomers discover a joy of cycling. Key to growth in New Zealand, says Adventure South Director Geoff Gabites, has been the amazing adoption of the sport by middle-aged kiwi women, as they discovered firstly the Otago Central Rail Trail and now increasingly the network of new trails growing around the country. “These riders would often arrive as a group having left their husbands behind and ride with a group of girlfriends. It’s a social activity that has added to the fitness and life style, and suddenly they realise they have had a great holiday and helped their fitness as well. The obvious question is ...

Whats Next...?”

What’s next is increasingly more cycling on one of the 18 new multi-day trails around New Zealand . Not all of these trails are easy to access or put a trip together with a group, and so operators like Adventure South provide a full support service that allows riders to focus on their enjoyment and a holiday in their own country.

Every weekend around the country, cycle groups meet and ride and then adjourn to their favourite nearby coffee spot. As these weekend rides increase in duration and time, riders increasingly seek out ways to maximise their riding enjoyment. Because the cycling boom is world wide, the opportunities available are endless. Almost every country has quality cycle offerings, and often the key question is how to decide which is the best. With the personal staff experience and international connections, Adventure South have many first hand recommendations to make.

“This year I cycled in Bali with our new itinerary, as well as with a group of 10 from Leh to Manali in India,” says Gabites, “Last year we cycled with a group in Japan which was amazing and then across in France with a self guided trip. Apart from New Zealand we also have trips in Vietnam and Korea. It’s a comfort to be able to talk to someone on the phone who has actually been on these rides”.

Back in New Zealand, up to 18 new cycleways are opening as part of the Governments $50 million spend to encourage more people to cycle. From the backroads of the Motu Coach road down to the Von Valley, which descends into Lake Wakatipu and nearby Queenstown, trails are under construction or now completed. From the fun of the 150 km challenge of the Otago Central Rail Trail, cyclists are now spreading their wings.

With a strong international reputation as a great place to cycle, NZ roads also make a great venue for cycling, especially when the issues of safety have already been worked out before hand. The south island has many stunning roads ideal for group cycling. Added to the cycling attraction, fantastic hikes exist in New Zealand and Adventure South provides for multi-day hikes of all levels of difficulty, which are fully supported and utilise boutique accommodation with private bathrooms through to overnighting under the stars and group cooking.

Age is no longer the barrier it once was as individuals remain healthier and more active than ever. As cyclists push the high 60’s and beyond, guides are inspired at what their clients are achieving. With a population staying active longer, and more opportunities emerging to engage in outdoor activity, the role of tour companies like Adventure South become clearly defined as one of providing the means and support to enable clients to increase their enjoyment, fitness and social interaction, which is part of their active life style.

What a Difference a Guide makes.

Finally it’s time to try an activity that still gets the heart racing but is quite a bit closer to ground level – a cycle trek organized by Adventure South. Adventure South has been operating active holidays throughout New Zealand for 20 years and offers a range of cycling, trekking and adventure Tnz Top Pix itineraries.

There’s simply no other collection of New Zealand itineraries that can match the geographic coverage, originality and www.graftoncottage.co.nz welcome@graftoncottage.co.nz overall quality of our 0064 7 8689971 adventures, it believes.

For many years travellers to New Zealand have come to walk the classic trails like the Milford or Routeburn Tracks or cycle the West Coast roads. These trails and routes offer a great insight into some awesome regions, but there are many, many more trails and cycling routes that are the new frontiers in adventure tourism - beautiful, scenic, and without the crowds.

Thames Coromandel Peninsula accommodation. A piece of paradise in the land of the long white cloud.

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New Zealand’s greatest Forest Adventure Park. www.treeadventures.co.nz

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The Remarkables

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Auckland

GOLFING GREATS James Wilson flexes his swing on the Nelson region’s multi-varied golf courses.

New Zealand has a huge number of golf courses relative to its population and many visitors love to play a round or several as they travel through the country.

This country’s diverse landscapes mean courses can be wildly different from each other.

The Nelson region at the top of the South Island is a good example. Nelson enjoys one of the most favourable climates in New Zealand with high sunshine hours, which helps to explain why Nelson is a popular golfing destination.

In the centre of the Nelson township is the Nelson Golf Club, which has an 18 hole championship links course adjacent to the district’s airport and the picturesque waters of Tasman Bay. This beautiful seaside links course has reputedly the best greens in the country.

The quality of its course has been recognized by the Club being chosen to host the 2014 New Zealand Amateur Championship.

Nelson golf links is only ten minutes from the centre of downtown Nelson and virtually next door to beautiful

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Tahunanui Beach and associated accommodation.

The course recently hosted the 2010 and 2011 New Zealand Mixed Foursomes events, and the 2008 Toro New Zealand Womens Interprovincial championships.

A bit further afield is the Tasman Golf Club, a public 9-hole course around 45 minutes drive from Nelson.

The course is famous for its stunning views across the Tasman Bay and Mt Arthur ranges. It has a small but very friendly membership, which is more than happy to share its course with visitors.

Then there is the Motueka Golf Course, which offers a flat, easy walking 18-hole course characterized by lush, tree lined-fairways, sea views, beautiful vistas and glorious greens, the course layout with its narrow fairways makes it both challenging and interesting, even for the most professional of golfers.

The Greenacres Golf Club offers one of the more challenging courses in the region.

Located on Best Island, 8 kilometres from the town of

Richmond, the scenic links-style layout of the course is in a tree-lined parkland setting, which is a pleasure to enjoy.

There are no steep hills to climb but numerous obstacles to navigate around, including some well placed bunkers, plus plenty of challenging lies that will test and titillate the average golfer.

The Totaradale Golf Club is situated 25 kilometres south of Nelson on the outskirts of the picturesque village of Wakefield. Found in Pigeon Valley Road, this tranquil 9-hole golf course is nestled amongst both native and exotic trees

and boasts an abundance of New Zealand bird-life.

This unassuming golf club extends a warm welcome to members and visitors alike and strives to cater for every golfer irrespective of their playing age or ability.

Then there is the Waahi Taakaro Golf Course, set in the Maitai Valley just out of Nelson.

This nine hole course is in a valley setting alongside a beautiful river surrounded by leafy shade trees where tui, pigeons and kingfishers create an all day chorus.

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Home of the Festival of Golf 03-548-5029 www.nelsongolf.co.nz

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Outstanding views, must play 9 hole course 03 5266819 www.tasmangolfclub.co.nz www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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BEERY NICE! Jacob Hasler puts his elbow to good work at some of the country’s leading craft beer providers.

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am not ashamed to admit that I like a drink now and again and there is something about travelling that particularly makes me want to ‘wet the whistle’.

New Zealand has no shortage of bars and restaurants, which offer a huge array of local and international beers. Thanks to a growing love of craft beer, dozens of craft breweries have sprung up around the country.

There are bars and there are breweries. To me, perfection is to find a brewery inside a bar (or vice versa). Fortunately there are several of these around.

One that stands out for me is Deep Creek Brewing Co, in Brown’s Bay on Auckland’s North Shore.

It aims to be a ‘throw back’ to the days when you could head down to your local village, hang out with great friends, drink exciting brews and eat fantastic food – all in an environment, which exuded the timeless value of fine, hand-crafted quality.

The friendly staff is passionate about producing and serving fantastic, flavour fuelled brews and eats.

At Deep Creek Brews & Eats, they brew onsite in gleaming tanks, which are proudly on display.

If you happen to wander past early in the morning you can catch the team shoveling grain into the mash tun and tipping buckets of hops into the kettle.

In the evening, when you stand at the bar with the sun on your back, holding a fresh, cold beer you will appreciate the journey that a sack of grain and a handful of hops took. The beer is poured from the shiny conditioning tanks behind the bar, straight to your glass.

The Deep Creek concept came out of the travels of two kiwi guys who tried a beer or two in Europe, America and Australia.

Back home, in 2010, a Browns Bay garage was turned in to a home brew base and product was given away to friends and relatives. The positive feedback encouraged them to start Deep Creek.

A little further down the country, in Tauranga, is a company whose name overwhelmingly expresses what it does.

The Brewers Bar is located a stone’s throw from Mount Maunganui and the beautiful Tauranga beachfront.

ATLAS ATLAS BEER BEER CAFE CAFE

STEAMER STEAMERWHARF, WHARF,QUEENSTOWN QUEENSTOWN www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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The bar offers a range of cold, crisp craft beers and hosts a steady stream of quality kiwi musicians and bands.

one brewery or brewing company are the only drinks available to customers.

Head inland from there and down a bit and eventually you will get to Rotorua.

Nelson’s Free House is a true free house that grew out of the activities of two Nelson-based beer drinkers, Mic Dover and Eelco Boswijk.

There it’s worth checking out the Brew bar, which exists to serve the beers of the local Croucher Brewing Co (it also has an outlet in Tauranga).

Brew Rotorua has recently been named Outstanding Bar and won an Outstanding Bartender award at the 2013 Rotorua Hospitality Awards.

Croucher Brewing produces a core range of bottle and keg beers that include Pale Ale, Pilsner, Patriot and Galaxy IPA. On top of these, they produce seasonal brews throughout the year that can only be found on tap around New Zealand (and sometimes Australia).

These all can be found at Brew bar, as well as a menu of affordable and delicious pub meals, an exclusively New Zealand wine list, and Rotorua’s only cafe to roast its own coffee beans.

One of the more intriguing locations for a brewery bar can be found in the town of Frankton – a former church.

The appropriately named Good George came to life after a bunch of friends got together and decided after years in hospitality and brewing it was time to create their own craft beer brand. Their main motivation was they wanted to show people what great beer can be, convert drinkers from the norm and show them how to enjoy fantastic beer.

Their belief was that beer can be so much better and more rewarding. It shouldn’t be bland, full of chemicals, mass produced and boring. Nor should it be hard, pretentious or scary. Exploring and drinking beer should be enjoyable, simple and really rewarding.

The brewery idea gathered momentum in 2011 when a site in the industrial heart of Frankton was discovered that was the perfect mix of location, character and potential.

The former St George’s Church was in need of much love and attention however it provided an awesome space and backdrop for the creation of the brewery and dining hall.

The brewery equipment is fully open to the bar and dining areas and showcased to the expansive garden bar through huge windows.

Brewery tours are available at certain times of the week and the kitchen is open serving brunch, lunch and dinner seven days a week.

Hop over the sea to Nelson in the South Island and you’ll find another converted church with a difference. The Free House is a pub untied to a single brewery, which stands it apart from most others.

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In the early 2000s, Mic and Eelco became increasingly frustrated at living in the heart of New Zealand’s craft brewing region, yet finding themselves living in a city with virtually none of these tasty beers on tap on local outlets.

The immediate solution to this dilemma was the creation of Mic and Eelco’s company Dead Good Beer Events in order to host regular beertasting events at Nelson’s Founders Park.

These quarterly “Beer Fetes”, featuring local and national craft beers, were extremely successful and led quickly to the idea of MarchFest – an annual craft beer and music festival which asks local craft brewers to create a brand new beer each year, especially for the event.

In 2009, a tiny wooden church came on to the property.

Mic and Eelco glanced at it, both having the same thought – “what a great building for a pub.” The thought would not go away, and having had no desire whatsoever in their lives to own or run a pub, Mic and Eelco felt the call of the universe to “set the beers free” and give Nelson beer drinkers their first true free house.

The Free House boasts ten beer taps plus three real ale hand pumps serving an ever-changing menu of craft beers. Since 2009, the pub has served over 500 different beers from nearly 60 independent Kiwi breweries.

Apart from choice, another key characteristic of the beer events had been the importance of ambience and a civilised environment where convivial conversation in a safe and secure environment takes precedence.

The Free House has a tiny kitchen, which made offering in-house cuisine very difficult. The initial solution to this problem was to allow customers to order food in from nearby outlets such as The Indian Café and Stefano’s

Pizzeria.

More recently they have added another food option - the ‘From Our Kitchen’ menu – tasty food dishes prepared by a local restaurant especially for the pub.

The Free House was voted Overall Best Beer Venue in New Zealand in the Beer and Brewer Magazine - People’s Choice - 2012).

In Queenstown, the diminutive Atlas Beer café doesn’t have room for a full brewery but it makes up for this by serving an extensive range of craft beers and delicious food, including its justifiably famous steaks.

It has beautiful views of the lake and an outside seating area for those who want to people watch.

Quality craft beer is a passion at Atlas and for a tiny bar they’ve got a pretty extensive selection.

This is a quirk they’re proud of. The on-tap regulars feature Emerson’s and Coopers, and they carry a diverse range of craft bottled beers.

A ‘guest pump’ pours beers by the likes of Moa, Yeastie Boys and Invercargill Breweries.

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The Queen Charlotte Track Your Way, Your Style

There’s been a lot of talk lately about New Zealand’s Great Walks . . . and let’s face it, New Zealand has a lot of them . . .

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hile the Milford Track is undoubtedly the best known of New Zealand trails with its enviable ‘finest walk in the world’ mantle, there are few that rival the reputation of the Queen Charlotte Track in the Marlborough Sounds for not only the stunning coastal and ridgeline views but the food, wine and accommodation experiences to be had along the way.

Whether it’s a beer and a gourmet burger in the bar or a fine dining experience in an upmarket resort or lodge, there is something to savour for everyone at a budget that appeals along this 70km track located at the north eastern tip of New Zealand’s South Island. The track’s start is just a stone’s throw from the largest wine growing region in New Zealand near Blenheim or a quick jaunt across the Cook Strait by ferry or plane from the capital, Wellington. Alternatively take a scenic train, bus or car ride from Christchurch following the spectacular east coast with its large populations of New Zealand fur seals and snow-capped mountains beyond. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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If you have one day or many, there is a package for you offered seamlessly by an array of quality service providers.

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ith its many entry and exit points, flexible water transport services to carry your bags and variety of quality accommodation options to suit your budget, the Queen Charlotte Track is truly great and utterly unique amongst New Zealand trails. If you have one day or many, there is a package for you offered seamlessly by an array of quality service providers.

Here adventure is waiting for outdoor enthusiasts of any age who visit the shores and traverse the ridgelines of these majestic Marlborough Sounds. Completed by most walkers in four or five days and mountain bikers in just two or three from historic Ship Cove to picturesque Anakiwa, comfort and great climate collide to create this iconic Kiwi track open 365 of the year.

Hike it, bike it or even kayak it – the options are endless. In the summer’s peak, walkers get priority on the northern reaches of the track from Ship Cove to Camp Bay although mountain bikers are able to bike the southern sections.

Outside of the summer months, bikers can complete the whole track from March 1 through to November 30 although it is a challenging ride in parts.

After spending a night at one of the large variety of accommodation options in pretty little seaside port Picton - with its trademark slumbering sleepiness in winter turning to buzzing hyperactivity in summer - most visitors will hop aboard one of the number of water taxi providers based in and around the vibrant waterfront and head straight for Ship Cove.

Some choose to walk just a day and the historic reserve of Ship Cove is a favoured

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Tnz Top Pix “...as New Zealand as...

00 64 3 5734341 www.hopewell.co.nz

Tnz Top Pix Picton House B & B Accommodation at start & finish of QC Track Reservations: 0800 616 429 NZ only pictonhousebandb@xtra.co.nz

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Marlborough’s iconic waterfront lodge.

The first stop on the Queen Charlotte Track.

Phone (03) 579 8259 www.furneauxlodge.co.nz

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stop but day walks are also available where the road meets the track such as at Anakiwa, Torea Bay and Mistletoe Bay. Local providers can help visitors pick the best section of the Queen Charlotte Track to experience – there’s so much choice.

Marlborough Sounds landscape. Truly a ‘Sound’ by definition, this network of sunken river valleys is a unique geological area where the sea level has risen over millions of years and flooded these steepsided plains.

Those starting the trail at Ship Cove can see first-hand the sheltered little bay the English explorer Captain James Cook used as his home base while he explored the South Pacific in 1770 and it has changed little. There he had found fresh water, strong timbers and also investigated the potential medicinal properties of the nearby forest. Cook prepared a drink high in Vitamin C out of the twigs, leaves and bark of the New Zealand rimu tree for his sailors. It was either drink it or be flogged – not so much choice for them . . .

There is rich Maori history here too as many of New Zealand’s indigenous people lived in and around these abundant coastlines. Early Maori knew this place – Queen Charlotte Sound – as Totaranui and believed the main body of the Sound was the trunk of the giant New Zealand native tree of the same name with its various bays and coves the branches of the tree.

Charts of another type are evident now as walkers clutch maps with track gradients when leaving Ship Cove – this is no stroll in a park and there is some work to be done to gain the elevation required to truly appreciate the grandeur of the

You will follow in the footsteps of the first European pioneers on centuries old bridle paths that formed the basis of the Queen Charlotte Track when first established.

Now the great quality of track allows walkers and bikers to pass easily side by side and ongoing development by the Department of Conservation,which maintains the track, ensures a great

Experience the peaceful end of the sounds

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experience in what is a successful joint venture between the department, the local council and almost a dozen private landowners. Visitors are required to have purchased the appropriate pass if crossing the private land sections and these can be purchased in Picton or along the track.

And of course, the accommodation options are endless. You can camp at Department of Conservation campsites or opt for accommodation in backpackers, home stays, retreats and lodges or hotels along the way all while taking advantage of the water transport services which allow your luggage to be transferred each day.

Provide for yourselves for food or take the night off, every night of your hike if staying at the backpackers, lodges, hotels and retreats with restaurants or catering options.

Sleeping options are often less than half a day’s walk apart and for those with a little more time, or seeking something a little different, there are many other activities that can be enjoyed along the way. These include swimming, fishing, sailing, sea kayaking, bird and dolphin watching, diving and historic side trips. Glow-worm grottos add to the nightlife.

There are guided and unguided packaged walking options available too and both can have their packs carried for them from any of the access points along the track by arrangement with transport operators.

The Queen Charlotte Track – truly a great walk offering adventure your way . . . so make it your choice today! For more information on how to book your walking or biking holiday see the official track website at www.qctrack.co.nz 28

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Northland

NORTHLAND’S KAURI MUSEUM GAINS QUALMARK ENVIRO GOLD Northland

The Kauri Museum in Matakohe has been recognised as one of the country’s leading tourism businesses for environmental performance, achieving a Qualmark Enviro Gold rating.

Q system.

ualmark is the tourism industry’s official quality assurance and environmental accreditation

The Kauri Museum has been a Qualmark endorsed visitor activity since 2000.

Businesses that carry the additional Enviro Gold rating have exceeded Qualmark standards for environmental and social responsibility, and demonstrate strong leadership and advocacy in these areas.

The Kauri Museum’s Chief Executive Officer Betty Nelley says achieving this environmental accreditation was a personal goal for her - one that she is extremely proud to have achieved.

“It means so much for our business as we always believed we demonstrated environmental excellence, integrity and best practice, and now that belief has been formally endorsed.”

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“Our philosophy around the environment is that we wish to leave the world a better place for our grandchildren.”

The Kauri Museum is owned by a Charitable Trust and funded entirely by its visitors. It is the largest undercover attraction in Northland and boasts over 4500 sq mtrs of displays depicting the industries of the mighty Kauri tree.

Qualmark General Manager Tim Keeling congratulated the Museum on its achievement.

“In order to earn the Qualmark Enviro Gold rating, The Kauri Museum underwent a comprehensive on-site evaluation, where its performance was evaluated in areas incorporating waste management, energy efficiency, environmental management and community support.”

“To achieve this rating is no mean feat - it takes time, dedication and commitment, things The Kauri Museum has in spades.”

“Each of Qualmark’s quality criteria has been developed in collaboration with the tourism industry making it a quality assurance system by the industry, for the industry.”

“Any business that achieves Qualmark status has made the extra effort to deliver a product that meets superior quality standards and is likely to exceed visitors’ expectations.”

Over 2,100 tourism businesses across New Zealand have been through the evaluation process and are licensed to use the Qualmark star ratings.

The Qualmark Enviro Awards sits alongside the Qualmark quality assurance system which covers accommodation and venues, activities, transport tours and visitor services.

Qualmark is jointly owned by Tourism New Zealand and the New Zealand Automobile Association. It is run as a not-for-profit basis as a service to travellers and the tourism industry.

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A NEW BIRD AT THE KAURI MUSEUM A sculpture of the extinct Moa bird made from driftwood collected from Northland beaches now stands at the entrance of The Kauri Museum. This was made by the very talented Waipu sculptor Greg Maddox from Tapatai Driftwood Creations.

Like the ancient Kauri trees, Moa were on this Northland landscape for millions of years. They would have roamed the giant Kauri forests.

Discover the exciting history of the Mighty Kauri, it’s fascinating gum and pioneering past.

Northland’s largest undercover attraction.

At Matakohe, just off SH 12 on the Twin Coast Discovery Highway.

Approximately 2 hours drive north from Auckland

The Kauri Museum, 5 Church Rd, R.D.1., Matakohe, Northland 0593 Ph: 09 431 7417 www.kaurimuseum.com

Kauri Mill at Kauri Museum www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Matakana

WHITE, GREEN AND BLUE

Northland

Don Jameson experiences the colours and tastes of Matakana.

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eaches to the north of Auckland are understandably popular with locals and tourists alike and many people maintain holiday homes in the Matakana region, just an hour or so away from the city.

Through my fresh eyes, I can certainly see the appeal. The region has a lot to offer with lush green pasture, white sandy beaches and blue sparkling sea.

The land produces an abundance of fresh produce and has encouraged many vineyards to set up over the years.

Matakana Village, once just a blur out of the car window as holidaymakers headed to their baches, has grown and developed into a must-visit regional centre.

It boasts a cinema complex, boutique shopping along with cafes, restaurants and wineries and an extensive farmers market on Saturdays, where you can find stalls are packed with fresh produce, artisan cheeses, homemade spreads, organic foods, craft beer and olive oils.

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In my book of travel secrets, I believe that any opportunity to visit a vineyard to eat and drink local produce must be taken and one particularly popular venue is the Mahurangi River Winery & Restaurant.

This is just seven minutes from Warkworth and is in a beautiful setting.

The restaurant is open for lunch most days and, as you might expect, is a great place to try Mahurangi River wines.

One highlight is a 2013 Albarino described as being a fresh vibrant wine displaying notes of white peach, lemon blossom and floral nuances.

Other offerings are a Pretty in Pink rose, Field of Grace chardonnay and, in the red wine section, Mainly Malbec and Mostly Merlot as well as a syrah and a ‘companions’ wine that mixes syrah and viognier grapes.

The region is also home to a number of attractive places to stay. Those who really want to immerse themselves into the rural delights of Matakana should consider Tangihau Retreat.

A meander down a country road leads you to the front door of this exclusive seaside accommodation, which offers delightful marine views, beautifully appointed guest rooms and the chance to enjoy nature in an unspoilt environment.

The rooms come with all the gear needed for guests to cook for themselves, but there is no shortage of local restaurants available for those who want to delegate.

Activities include peaceful coastal and country walks, swimming, fishing (and barbecuing your own catch!), relaxing in the sun-loungers and log fires for winter cosiness.

Then there’s Tawharanui Lodge, which offers 6.5 acres of bird-filled gardens and lawns to unwind in.

With a privately-owned estuary, guests don’t need to venture too far to explore all the natural bird life, bush and underwater creatures living here.

Guests also can play petanque, swim in a fresh water pool or hit the nearby beach.

Those who want to be a bit more active

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can fish from rocks, go diving for crayfish, go hiking or mountain biking in any number of public reserves and regional parks.

People who are interested in sustainable living might like to stay at Kowhai Glen, a small hidden valley dotted with mature Kowhai trees.

This contains a villa that is built from eco-friendly products with no treated materials other than its footings. The bench tops are Kauri, coming from boards off the old Newmarket Railway Station that was demolished in the 1980s.

The Cottage effluent is serviced by a Vermicomposter for solids and a Horizontal wetland for the mixed grey water, finally to be dispersed into the soils to complete the transpiration cycle.

Staff take great care in source the best available local organic, free-range or spray-free produce.

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“A simply “ gorgeous secret “ ”

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Waiheke Island

THE BEAUTIFUL ISLAND OF WAIHEKE

W

aiheke Island is known internationally as one of the most beautiful islands in the world. Just 35 minutes from downtown Auckland by passenger ferry or 45 minutes by car ferry, Waiheke is often referred to as the Jewel in the Hauraki Gulf.

The island is a unique blend of landscapes from beaches to rolling vineyards with fantastically diverse people from around the world and an everexpanding selection of great wine and good food.

Beaches

There are five white sand beaches on the north side of the island to choose from – Oneroa, Little Oneroa, Sandy Bay, Palm Beach and Onetangi Beach.

The southern side beaches include Surfdale, Blackpool, and Rocky Bay, and the Eastern side of the island is the shell 36

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covered beach at Whakanewha Regional Park – the perfect spot for a kayak and also where the camping ground is located.

Man O’War Bay at the “bottom end” is also well worth a visit (if you have a car) for some wine tasting at the renowned tastingroom”Man O’ War Vineyards tasting room is right on the beach.

Geography

The island is 19.3 km long from west to east and varies in width from half a kilomter to 10 kilometers, and has a surface area of 92 km². The coastline is 133.5 km, including 40 km of beaches. It is very hilly with few flat areas, the highest point being Maunganui at 231 metres.

The climate is slightly warmer than Auckland with less humidity and rain and more sunshine hours.

History

Visit the Stony Batter WWII fortifications, which were built to keep the Japanese forces out. Open to the public they offer both an insight to the extent of defence preparations and wonderful views of the southern end of the Hauraki Gulf. Waiheke was discovered and settled by Maori approximately 1000 years ago and many signs of Maori occupation on Waiheke Island still exist today. Archaeological sites are scattered over the island including more than forty pa sites, cooking pits and terraced areas.

Viticulture

Winegrowers have successfully matched the unique maritime climate and ancient soil structures to the selection of classical grape varieties in order to produce red and white wines with distinctive varietal character. There are over 20 wineries on the island, and during the summer months

most have their cellar doors open to the public. You can visit most wineries via an organised tour, self-drive tour or hop on one of the many local buses.

Walk or Hiking

Over 8 marked walks ranging in difficulty across Waiheke with routes suitable for the very fit as well as easier routes for those just out for a stroll. Walkway maps can be found at the i-Site information center in Oneroa.

Birdlife on the island

There is a successful dotterel breeding programme, oystercatchers (torea-pango), white-faced heron (matukumoana), pied stilts (poaka), Caspian terns (Taranui), paradise ducks (putangitangi) are all found around the island. Godwits (kuaka) are also sometimes spotted on the tidal flats while on the south side of the island where a large wetland is home to bittern (matuku), banded rail (mohopereru) and spotless crake (puweto).

Native bush

Waiheke Island carefully guards its status as a possum free island. The absence of these pests means forests and wildlife are allowed to thrive.

Getting There

Fullers Ferries provide the most regular service to Waiheke Island with ferries departing from downtown Auckland (some via Devonport) to Matiatia, Waiheke. Fullers also service the island with a scheduled bus, which meets and delivers to every ferry sailing.

SeaLink operates car and passenger ferry services to Waiheke Island from Half Premium Accomodation Moon Bay and to/from Auckland city. 360 Discovery provide passenger seasonal ferry services to Orapiu wharf on Waiheke Island from downtown Auckland and on to Coromandel. The ferry departs 0064 9 372 5402 from Pier 4 and stops at Orapiu on the www.staywaiheke.com western end of Waiheke Island. Please Premium Accomodation note there is no bus or taxi service at 09 372 5402 Premium Accomodation Orapiu Wharf.

Ph 372 5402, Email:staywaiheke@gmail.com, Website: www.staywaiheke.com Travel to the island in style with a range of operators. Many vineyards and accommodation providers have helicopter landing facilities. Â Flight time to the island from Auckland is approximately 10 minutes.

Flight Hauraki offers passenger transfers and scenic flights. They typically operate between Waiheke and Auckland Airport, Great Barrier and North Shore. Their scenic flights are based around Waiheke, Auckland CBD and the Coromandel.

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Waiheke Island

PODERI CRISCI BRINGS ITALIAN INFLUENCE TO WAIHEKE Poderi Crisci is a small boutique vineyard located on Waiheke, originally planted in Merlot, although through planting and grafting, the estate now boasts Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Nebbiolo, Syrah, Montepulciano and Arneis varieties to provide a better representation of owner Antonio’s homeland, Italy.

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he vineyard is located 20 minutes from Oneroa and 10 minutes from Onetangi, in Awaawaroa Bay and lies on 7.7 hectares in a north facing slope set in a sheltered amphitheatre valley on a narrow rocky strip, believed to be 30 million set years older than the rest of the Island.

It has an Italian influence in style and a respect of nature with a minimal intervention on the wine making process.

All of the vineyard work is carried out by hand with a focus on quality above all else. With fruit estate grown and selectively hand harvested, the grapes are extensively sorted in the vineyard to ensure that only the very best fruit comes into the winery, a second more intensive sorting process is then carried out prior the crushing, finished with a natural melalactic, and aged in French oak barrique with a 25% of new oak for the red variety.

For four generations the Crisci family

has been immersed in food and wine.

Antonio, born and raised in Napoli, came to NZ in early 1990 and established Toto Restaurant in Nelson Street. With his partner Vivienne Farnell, they opened Non Solo Pizza, an institution in Parnell since 1997 and Bar Vino in 2009.

They have owned the vineyard for 5 years. Antonio, a visionary, has transformed the Waiheke vineyard into a place people will visit to wine, dine and have “layers of experience”.

They have two daughters, Bella and Marilena and a vineyard cat – Filippo Gatto Crisci.

Restaurant and functions manager is James Boyle.

James shares Antonio’s passion of food, wine and Poderi Crisci. He has been in the hospitality industry for many years and previously ran Non Solo Pizza 10 years ago.

Herb Freidl, is the winemaker.

PODERI CRISCI AT AWAAWAROA BAY, WAIHEKE, NEW ZEALAND. QUITE POSSIBLY THE ONLY PLACE ON EARTH YOU’LL NEED TO BE BI-LINGUAL IN ITALIAN AND MAORI.

A well known Waiheke entity in the vineyard community Herb works with Antonio on the Poderi wines. This collaboration brings synergy, passion and vision to the cellar.

Claire Mummery, Head Gardener is a 20 year veteran of gardening, Claire has a passion of providing fresh food for the kitchen The Team at Poderi who all have passion and believe in what we call agro torismo.

Auckland

FINDING AUCKLAND’S URBAN SOUL Northland

There are many great cafes around New Zealand, but your first stop has to be “Urban Soul” in the Southern metropolis of Auckland –Manukau City.

B

oasting many awards for outstanding service and best emerging business in Manukau, this café has to be at the top of your wish list for a visit.

Only 15 minutes from the airport, close to the motorway bypasses and with plenty of parking, it is the travellers dream. With a New York Style of white on white, soft leather couches and an airy garden room, it is the perfect place to unwind, meet up with friends or relax before that next flight.

Urban Soul is passionate about food. Taste and seasonal flavours are the essential ingredients to providing that “wow” experience. Qualified Chefs and Bakers work at an intense pace throughout the day to produce quality food that looks fantastic and tastes great.

A deli cabinet with an ever-changing menu that demands a second visit at least. The most delectable home baked sweets that you will find very hard to resist.

A must try is their famous “cinnamon brioche” that won’t be there after 12pm, so get there early.

There is more, serving over 200 plated meals a day, the popular all day brunch/ lunch menu won’t disappoint. Salmon Eggs benedict, creamy garlic mushrooms and bacon, and a kiwi favourite “fish and Chips” are just some of the items from the extensive selection on offer.

Kiwis love their coffee and the coffee culture has grown into one of the finest in the Western Culture with world class Baristas competing frequently in the world championships.

Great coffee isn’t always a given, there are many components that make that “Perfect Cup of espresso” - the beans, the blend, the milk, the machine, the barista, and of course the passion that has to come with it.

Perfectly combining all these essential ingredients, creates the coffee moment that makes you want to come back again and again. Coffee can be compared to quality wine –once you find it, you remember it, and you keep going back for it!

With full fat creamy milk that is hard to

find anywhere else in the world, added to the sophisticated roasters that are truly passionate about their blends, we are very spoilt for choice in New Zealand.

Urban Soul’s coffee: Ozone Fairtrade Organic is roasted in our local homeland New Plymouth and worth a visit if you are passing by. An artisan coffee blend unique to the café and aptly named “Urban Addiction” has floral and berry fruit notes, is full bodied and has a lingering dark chocolate finish.

Have it any style you like but the most popular is now the flat white with its creamy texture and smooth appearance.

Enjoy a glass of wine or a traditional New Zealand beer, this is the spot this summer to enjoy the best of Café culture while you ponder on the next step in your journey.

Urban Soul comes highly recommended by “Trip Advisor”, is open 7 days a week and closed public holidays. Visit the web site on www.urbansoul.co.nz, or consider joining them on Facebook and really discover what they are all about. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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...what else is there?

652 Great South Road, Manukau, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 262 2435 | cafe@urbansoul.co.nz | www.urbansoul.co.nz 40

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Auckland

ARDMORE FLYING TRAINS PILOTS FOR THE REAL WORLD

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A

ccording to the Boeing 2013 Pilot and Technician Outlook forecast, the airline industry will need more than one million new pilots and technicians to operate and maintain new aircraft due for delivery over the next two decades.

Regardless of where you come from, it has never been a better time to become a pilot and selecting the right school is vital to your success.

Located at Ardmore Airport, Auckland, Ardmore Flying School has been training professional pilots since 1961.

Opportunities are available for NZ citizens, permanent residents as well as international students to take advantage of one of the best training environments worldwide.

Ardmore Flying School has access to student loan funding for eligible domestic students and is heavily focused on the quality of training delivered to ensure high

employment outcomes for their graduates.

This coincides with the launch of their Graduate Program in late 2014 to give students further experience bridging the gap into the workplace.

To be eligible to participate, students need to have completed training at Ardmore Flying School.

Students also have access to a large modern fleet of fixed wing aircraft, the latest in online training materials and instructors with up to 40 years worth of experience.

This combined with training at the busiest aerodrome in the country, access to a major New Zealand city and the various terrain training grounds turns students into experience pilots ready to start working in the real world.

Check out www.ardmore.co.nz for more information.

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Ardmore Flying School

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Ardmore Airport Auckland, New Zealand

For more information, please contact our Enrolments team:

www.ardmore.co.nz 0800 ARDMORE +64 9 298 5055

Waikato

SUMMER OUTDOORS IN HAMILTON & WAIKATO

Waikato

The best way to truly experience a region is to find a city or town and use it as your base for day trips and excursions.

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t this time of year the Hamilton & Waikato region is the perfect place to experience the NZ outdoors especially if you are a passionate cyclist or walker.

Sanctuary Mountain Maungatautari is one of my favourite spots; there are a variety of different walking tracks all varying in length and grade, but exploring the Southern Enclosure always keeps me entertained for hours.

The mountain is an inland ‘island reserve’, surrounded by 42km’s of pest proof fencing, meaning the native birdlife and fauna can flourish without the worry of predators or pests.

Sitting in the clearing during bird feeding times is a guaranteed way to get close with the playful Kaka and I also find the canopy viewing tower a great way to 43

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take in the beauty of the native forest.

I really enjoy the kind of hiking trail that has a spectacular ‘hidden gem’ along the way, and the Wairere Falls is definitely one of those. After ticking Hobbiton Movie Set off your ‘must-do’ list, I recommend heading out to explore the Wairere Falls walk near Matamata.

The rock pools along the river were a welcome way to cool off being the middle of summer, and you always meet some friendly locals along the way.

Reaching the half-way viewing point provides a great view of the falls, but the top is just stunning. With wide spread views out over the country side, it’s well worth the climb. And while we are on the topic of stunning waterfalls the Bridal Veil Falls near Raglan, and Marokopa Falls near Waitomo are also worthy of visits.

The Pirongia Forest Park is another regular walking and hiking spot for locals, with many different trails, some of which provide educational insights into the variety of native fauna that New Zealand is famous for.

As an avid cyclist the region provides many options for my leisurely morning rides or full day trips if I’m feeling energetic. The Waikato River Trails – at 100m long and with each section being a different grade, from beginner to the more advanced, offers something different each time to keep me coming back.

Cycling along the banks of the Waikato River through native bush, along boarded wetlands and over giant suspension bridges is an awesome way to see NZ’s landscapes, and the trail operators there can assist with transport and www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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accommodation for those looking for multi-day trips as well as bike hire for riders travelling from afar.

The Hauraki Rail trail is also great, especially for groups of families or friends as it takes in the gold mining history of the region, travelling through gorges and along with long stretching plains. You can ride the Trail in different sections depending on what takes your fancy and needless to say the natural hot mineral spa are always a welcome relaxing end to the day and there is plenty of ‘bike-friendly’ accommodation in the township of Te Aroha.

One trail I haven’t yet tried but is on the list, is the newly opened The Timber Trail in the Pureora Forest.

The trail follows an old bush tramway providing through native forest and includes long swing bridges and great downhill sections. Definitely one to check out this Summer.

It is hard to pull out the highlights of the walking and cycling trails in this beautiful region, as I know I have only scratched the surface of what is on offer for an outdoorsy person like me.

CLASSIC

CARS

and vintage collectables

1950’s

diner on site

11 Railside Place

Hamilton phone 07 9572230 44

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www.classicsmuseum.co.nz

 HAMILTON ZOO’S EXOTIC ATTRACTIONS

S

et amidst 25ha of lush and tranquil surroundings, Hamilton Zoo is home to over 600 native and exotic animals.

Come and enjoy the wonders of the living world in a wildlife sanctuary renowned for its generous habitats and sympathetic approach to conservation!

Hamilton Zoo boasts the largest free flight aviary in New Zealand dedicated to native birds and plants. Take a stroll through the aviary - cheeky kaka or kakariki may land close by.

Go behind the scenes on a Face2Face encounter and meet our Sumatran tigers, southern white rhinos or ring-tailed lemurs - experiences not to be missed. Form that special bond

that comes from meeting a wild animal face to face, and know that 10% of the encounter fee will help endangered animals in the wild.

Our “Meet the keeper” talks highlight the characters and personalities of our animals, their feeding and enrichment.

Need a break? Swing by the on-site Flavours café and check out the delicious treats, or dine al fresco in one of our scenic picnic areas.

Besides being a tourism and recreation park, Hamilton Zoo has committed to the conservation of animals and the environment by participating in various conservation and research projects, and by contributing to breeding programmes for endangered species.

COME AND EXPLORE AT HAMILTON ZOO

Open every day

(except Christmas Day) 9am-5pm (nal admission 3.30pm).

Brymer Road, Hamilton P 07 838 6720 E info@hamiltonzoo.govt.nz

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GLOWWORMS PUT ON SPECTACULAR SHOW Jack Peterson finds a trip to Waitomo Caves delivers much more than glowing worms.

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efore we got to New Zealand, we had assumed that glowworm caving in the Waikato was a one-company affair, mainly due to rampant black water rafting adverts. Then, looking through the guide books and brochures, it turns out there are so many options to see limestone caves and Glowworms in the small north island village of Waitomo Caves we needed to do some research.

Trip advisor is always a good starting place and soon we selected the Spellbound Glowworm and Cave Tour based on glowing reviews. We definitely wanted to avoid the main commercial options preferring something more personalised and boutique, and secondly, we didn’t want to get wet on the full on Black water rafting or abseiling adventure! Then lastly we wanted to try and photograph the bioluminescence of these creatures with our digital camera, which has low light capabilities.

So, after phoning the company the evening before, and even getting a person to talk to after –hours, directions were provided and we confidently made our way South to Waitomo the next day.

We easily found and checked in at the Spellbound Office which is in the Waitomo Village store. The store is really more of a café than anything else and it was great to discover this charming and friendly country hospitality when we needed it. We appreciated a chance to unwind and have an early lunch after our drive, before our tour departed at 11am

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The trip out to the cave was one of the many surprises of our day. We were immediately engaged by our guide, who chatted to us on the way mentioning the sights of interest. All the photography of this region shows caves and so we had no expectation of just how scenic this drive would be.

There were different types of forest, interspaced with fields of sheep and cows grazing on the way over. There were no dairy farms just here, but we found out that many cows are grazed off farm when they are not being milked in winter. Limestone outcrops, bluffs and gorges were revealed as our guide drove off road and along a farm track. We wondered if this would be an adventure after all.

As we neared the cave our guide pulled up in the middle of a grassy paddock, rather than driving straight to the cave entrance as we had expected, he invited us to get out and take a look around, then he pointed down hill and suggested a walk down to the cave entrance. The meandering path wound down along the side of a gorge and around rocky outcrops and was too irresistible to turn down. Quite quickly we arrived at the stream, which intriguingly disappeared into the hillside.

We continued to walk underground with hard hats and lights, and our guide brought us to a place where we had the opportunity to look at the glowworms up really close. The first thing that is visible is the silk threads that they hang down. We got pictures of these, which look like tiny chains of pearls hanging down. And each

glowworm has up to 30 of these chains, which are acidic because the mucous droplets come actually come from their stomach! And the higher the humidity, the longer the chains, any breeze will dry things out a bit- so much to know!

Our guide was great, this was way more detail than I expected- he also knew every question that was thrown at him. It turns out that they are not actually worms, rather larvae or maggots - but we had forgotten about our own food by then!

We even saw their other lifecycle stages the pupa - like a miniature chrysalis - and a couple of adult glowworm flies, poor things which only live for 4-5 days as they were not blessed with a functioning mouth.

We talked with the guide about how they glow having read that it was their poo, which seemed very efficient, but alas adults don’t do this. The light comes from a branch off their gut, and it is a protein and an enzyme luciferin and luciferase and oxygen that are the magic ingredients.

And the reason they glow is to catch their food, aquatic bugs that live under rocks in the stream and get washed underground, where they emerge as flying insects and are attracted and confused by the blue-green lights. They are snared by the glowworms sticky hanging lines, hauled up and eaten live. We were able to see this happen; a little gruesome but very interesting.

Our guide motioned us forward towards a red raft, it looked suspiciously like a white water raft but he assured us that it would be a gentle drift downstream. He requested we turn off cameras and lights to let our eyes adjust to the darkness.

Boarding the raft was easy and safe, and we were told, the water was just one meter deep . Gradually over time the number of visible lights just kept on increasing, their distribution, mainly on the ceiling, and variation in their brightness really added to the effect.

There really were a starry night amount of glowworms-to sit quietly in the raft, and be able to see dimly in the pitch-black cave purely by the light of the glowworms was an amazing experience! So for glowworms this is the tour, but if you are looking for an adventure, go black water rafting.

We did of course visit a second cave on the tour, after a quick break for tea and biscuits and basic toilets that were ok. A small rocky valley with a track but no stream led away from the grassy area.

We followed it, the trees closed the valley in, the air temperature dropped and we were simply able to turn a corner and walk underground.

We were told that this cave was formed

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by the stream we had just seen- a long time ago, because the valley had been blocked by all the volcanic soils. The smooth concrete footpath wound its way underground, beckoning us to follow it, helped of course by our guide, but this time no helmets. The cave was set up with electric lights powered by a small, quiet generator.

It was amazing how the cave opened up to larger caverns once we were underground, then openings to the surface where there were some glowworms, but nothing like we’d see earlier. The path ended at a point where a particularly large amount of light was coming down.

A light further in revealed more cave – another kilometre we were told, and maybe one day Speleologists could burrow and dig into the Flood Caverns, way downstream of where we were in the Spellbound Glowworm cave.

On the way out, animal bones were the feature, unfortunate creatures that had fallen or been washed in millennia ago. Reputedly, Arthur Thomson, a surgeon with the British forces in the 1840s was shown in 1849 to retrieve Moa bones. The Moa skeleton we saw was half there, its leg bones pelvis, toe and skull being clearly visible.

We retraced our steps, and our last glowworm view in the large cathedral, the light from outside-their food source just being visible.

Then it was lights on again, the green light from the forest, at the exit, beckoning us back to reality and a warm afternoon.

The pictures we took of the glowworm lights came out ok. We didn’t use the tripod, in consideration for the others on the tour as it would have taken too long. Anyway we did sign up for some glowworm pics to be emailed to us, these were much better than ours, and we got our 2 favourite ones sent to us later on in high resolution.

We could have easily travelled on to Rotorua that afternoon, but chose to stay in the highly regarded Waitomo Caves Guest lodge. A place called Abseil inn looked interesting, but was full. The grapes growing under the verandah at the Guest Lodge were so sweet and there were even home made biscuits in our room when we arrived.

Staying overnight we were able to eat across the road at the Huhu restaurant, which was excellent, and the next morning, an early breakfast gave us the opportunity to visit the Natural Bridge and the Marokopa falls, half an hour drive west of Waitomo, before back tracking and heading to Rotorua. Were told the road in Waitomo is to be re-named as Waitomo Village Road!

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SUMMER ADVENTURES IN SUNNY RAGLAN Raglan is a small town that delivers big adventure.

R

aglan is a small, sunny town, 45 minutes from Hamilton and best known for its surf breaks – with a legendary left-hand point break that is ranked 17th in the world. But even though the waves are world-class, there’s much more to experience in this friendly, adventure-filled place than just hitting the surf. My partner Seb and I decide to spend a weekend checking out 6 different ‘must-do’s’.

First thing in the morning we’re out for our first stand-up paddleboard (SUP) experience with Raglan Watersports – who have a dedicated ‘paddleboarding school’. SUP is taking off all around New Zealand; it’s much easier than surfing to get the hang of, provides an amazing core workout, and allows surfers an option for days when the waves aren’t big enough.

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Owners Keith & Justine are passionate about watersports, and even run biweekly yoga classes out in the water on the paddleboards! We head out to the water with Keith, a chatty English bloke who is sports-mad. The signwritng on the back of his truck, ‘Get Up, Stand Up, Paddle for Your Rights’, elicits a grin from us both.

My board is massive, and when I push it out into the Raglan estuary (where the water is flat and calm for learning) and hop on, I’m surprised at how easy it is to balance while paddling. To me it feels like kayaking on a floating island! We paddle along, Keith giving me some helpful tips to move through the water smoother.

“Keep the paddle nice and close to the board,” he tells me. “Pretend you’re pulling yourself towards the paddle.”

It helps, and I start moving a bit faster.

We tour around the estuary, and I quickly realise that my arms have some muscles in them I didn’t know were there!

Seb is trying out some fancier tricks and soon ends up falling in the water. I laugh, until he gets back up and plays bumperboards, knocking me into the water too.

After drying off and thanking Keith for the fun lesson, it’s time for a slightly drier activity – horse trekking.

A scenic 30-minute drive from Raglan is Ruapeke Beach, home to Wayne & Penny Knuiman’s Wild Coast Horse Treks. This family-run business not only runs treks but also has eco-­cottages on site for guest accommodation, so guests can enjoy spending more time at the beach. They introduce us to some of their 15 horses; today I’ll be on Rembrandt, and Jonty is

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all saddled up for Seb. Penny tells me that they love ‘speed dating’. “We’re pretty good match-makers, it’s a fun challenge to pair the right horse with the right person.”

Over the years they’ve also nailed the perfect length for their horse trek, we’ll be out for 2 1⁄2 hours today and it looks like the weather is going to be good.

Our group of 8 sets off through quintessential Kiwi farmland, passing by lambs, cows, through native bush and over gushing streams. The horses occasionally stop to snatch at some juicy green grass, but are very sure-footed going down hills and over rocks – they clearly know what they’re doing!

The views around are stunning, and Wayne comments that for tourists visitng it’s a chance for them to see ‘the real NZ.’ We end up on the sandy beach, and head into the whitewash to let our equine friends dip their hoofs. Now comes the exciting part – Wayne asks who’s up for a gallop down the long stretch of sand. 8 hands are raised in favour, and after a few pointers on keeping our reins short and buts raised, we’re off at high-speeds – it’s a bit bumpy at first until I begin to move with Rembrandt’s rhythm, and then my heart surges with the excitement of riding so fast with the salty wind in my face.

It’s early evening when we leave, both 50

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starving from the combo of fresh air and exercise and ready to eat! On the menu tonight is dinner at The Shack in Raglan town, popular café/restaurant owned and run by married chefs, Justin & Alix Thomson.

The atmosphere is buzzing with locals greeting each other as they take tables (the infamous 2 degrees of separation is more like 1 degree in Raglan!), and the low-­hanging lights provide ambience.

Hungry from our active day, we polish off a fish taco (from the Un Taco $6 snack menu) to start, grilled beef & cerviche mains, and then share two desserts – scrumptious apple & golden rum crumble, and haloumi & salted caramel. With free wi-fi and heaps of tasty fairtrade, vegan, and gluten-free options, we can see why the locals love this place.

We’ve chosen to stay somewhere a little different tonight – in Raglan’s one and only luxury yurt; Nikau Sanctuary. Peter & Robbyn Storey built two yurts nestled amongst a grove of Nikau palms back in 2010, and offer a comfortable stay in the main yurt, with relaxing lomi-lomi massage if desired in the smaller neighbouring yurt. We love the unique roundness of being in a yurt, and are amazed at how well-equipped it is – kitchen, bathroom, outdoor spa and a BBQ are all part of

the experience. The fairy- lights dotted up the cedar roof poles towards the ‘eye of heaven’ offer some magic when we snuggle in to enjoy our peaceful sleep.

It’s action time again in the morning – we’re going to challenge our muscles with Raglan Rock; a rock climbing, abseiling, and caving business run by Gareth Jones.

This adventurer knows how to spin a good yarn, and keeps us entertained on our hike through lush native bush, pointing out herbs and fungus that are good to eat and sharing a bit of his life story; which includes professional motorbike racing, personal training, and engineering.

We pop out of the bush to discover we’re on the top of a cliff with an incredible view – there’s even a waterfall nearby.

Gareth organises the ropes, showing us Italian hitch, alpine butterfly and figure of 8 knots that will be keeping us safe as we abseil down. I’m slightly nervous approaching the edge, but once I get the hang of abseiling down, it’s tons of fun.

The second time I try bouncing off the rocks and getting some good air! Gareth calls out encouragement the whole way, “That’s it! Perfect! You’re doing awesome.”

Seb decides to have a go climbing the cliff, and Gareth shows me how to ‘belay’ (pull in the slack of the rope) as his ground-support partner. Apparently

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if Seb were to fall I’d shoot up in the air, so I tell him falling isn’t an option! I didn’t need to worry – he clambers his way up like a natural, using the tiny crannies and knobs to eventually reach the very top as we cheer from below. We leave determined to try out some of Gareth’s other climbing spots another time – he has locations all over Raglan, including some right on the water like the ‘Stupid Fat Hobbit’ climb, which you reach via kayak.

We grab fishburgers down at the Raglan Wharf, (big and tasty!) to stock up on carbs before setting off to Te Akau, a tiny rural town on the opposite side of the Raglan harbour where a kayaking adventure awaits. JD (Jeffrey Duston; one of many ‘JD’s’ in his family back in the U.S.) greets us on arrival at the Wild West Ranch – his project

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SHAMBALA Farm Stay

Quality Accommodation in Tranquill Surroundings View on AA Website

0064 7 826 3517 shambala3@xtra.co.nz

for the last 4 years, with a range of eco-­‐accommodation, fun American memorabilia, and the biggest private surfboard collections I’ve ever seen!

This is JD’s outlet for his love of kayaking; he ran a kayak tours business in California for years, and brought a number of kayaks to NZ when he made the move over. “Don’t even get me started on getting those bad-boys through customs,” he chuckles. We leave our www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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bags in the ‘Captain’s Quarters’ (our room for the night) and head down to the water. It’s a lovely evening for a paddle, and we marvel as we pass what locals term ‘pancake rocks’; layers of limestone stacked unbelievably high, some standing precariously in the water, which we’re able to navigate our kayaks through.

“Te Akau is Maori for ‘Rocky Coast’,” explains JD. “You can see why!” It’s such a beautiful evening and I find the gentle splash of our paddles cutting through the water a very soothing sound.

We follow JD down the last stretch of our tour, a narrower, shallow stream and are pleasantly surprised to finish up in front of a waterfall! He tells us that the pizza oven is ready to go back at the ranch, and we return to crack some beers and get our chefs hats on for creating our own pizzas from all the yummy ingredients JD’s wife Celeste has prepared. A night spent under the stars swapping travel stories and eating more pizza than I thought my stomach could fit is the perfect end to our Raglan adventure.

This lovely little town sure knows how to dish up fun – for more than just the surfers!

Email: info@thetimbertrail.com • Telephone: 07 878 4997

www.thetimbertrail.com

Book our two day cycling packages online or create your own experience from the various services we have available – bikes, cabins, camping, shuttles and more.

Nestled in the Pureora Forest, between Lake Taupo and Te Kuiti, is the 85km Timber Trail one of New Zealand’s Great Cycle Rides.

Experience a day on the trail or ride it over the recommended two days.

Boasting some of the highest and longest suspension bridges in New Zealand you weave your way through ancient forests, across ancestral lands of local Maori Tribes and along part of the historic Ongarue Tramway.

For more information or to book your Timber Trail experience, including accommodation options, shuttle & bag transfers and bike hire, visit

www.thetimbertrail.com 52

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WILD VALLEY FARM B&B

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RAGLAN FARM B&B ACCOMMODATION

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Independant accommodation within a sunny, spacious country home $100 - $240 per night, No children under 8 years

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A private hideaway, just 2 minutes walk to the beach, peace & tranquillity at its best.

Tents, campervans or caravans, backpackers, cabins or motel units.

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Coromandel

UNSPOILED COROMANDEL

Coromandel

T

he Coromandel Peninsula lies east of Auckland, on the other side of the Hauraki Gulf, and has an estimated population of just under 27,000 people in the combined Thames and Coromandel Districts.

Rustic, relaxed and unspoiled, the Coromandel is one of New Zealand’s best-loved holiday destinations.

The rugged volcanic hills are cloaked in native rainforest, and more than 400 kilometres of spectacular coastline promises you can find the beach of your dreams.

The Coromandel is a place where bush and beach are both easily accessible. In the same day, you can experience the blue dazzle of the Pacific Ocean and

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calming greenness of the kauri forest.

On the west coast, there’s a neverending parade of beaches, coves and harbours lined with pohutukawa trees (a red flowering native of New Zealand).

The eastern side of the Coromandel is furnished with an amazing collection of white sand and surf beaches, and an impressive, heavily forested mountain range runs right up the middle of the peninsula.

Coromandel Highlights The Coromandel’s fascinating history is evident in gold mining relics, logging dams and ancient Maori pa (fortified village) sites. The past can also be found in the charming colonial architecture and

historical buildings preserved in several towns around the region.

The coastal nature of the Coromandel makes it a brilliant choice if you like to fish, surf, dive, swim or wander along beaches. For contrast you can head for the hills and hike the trails in the forest.

Local cuisine could be as simple as fish and chips or as elegant as Crayfish Mornay. Cafes and restaurants make the most of the seafood that can be easily caught in the surrounding waters.

The inspirational natural beauty of the Coromandel has led to the area becoming a haven for artists and crafts people. Take time to discover the many galleries and studios—you’ll gain lasting pleasure when you purchase a piece of art directly from its creator.

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Enjoy stunning views, quality bedrooms with ensuites, Independant accommodation memorable withinbreakfasts a sunny, and hospitality. spacious country home

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Independant accommodation within a sunny, spacious country home Private self-contained one bedroom bach with views

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Bay of Plenty

HAPPY IN HAWKE’S BAY

Bay of Plenty

Sandy Tanner takes a walk on the wild side by visiting a live volcano.

T

he volcano is estimated to be between 100,000 and 200,000 years old. However, the small portion of the island that is visible above sea level has been in its present form for an estimated 16,000 years - evidence of a continually changing landscape.

Walking on White Island is like walking on the moon. Virtually no vegetation survives the harsh acidic environment inside the crater walls. Instead, lush beds of yellow and white sulphur crystals grow amongst hissing, steaming, bubbling fumaroles.

White Island Tours began in 1990 when Peter and Jenny Tait, seeking a change of lifestyle, gave up farming and embarked on a new venture as fishing and diving charter operators.

However, while out fishing near White Island one day, Jenny obliged a request

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by a client to be taken ashore the volcano. This visit not only sparked a curiosity in Jenny about the island, but lead to their operation expanding to include the option of a tour on to the volcano.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Gradually, Peter & Jenny abandoned their fishing and diving operation to focus entirely on tours of White Island and their yacht PeeJay II was replaced in 1995

by PeeJay III which could carry up to 22 passengers.

Today, in order to cater for the growing number of people worldwide who are attracted to this unique destination, White Island Tours operates with two vessels – PeeJay IV with a capacity for 44 passengers and PeeJay V with capacity for 70. They also have a 26-unit motel, a café and a gift shop.

Peter & Jenny’s passion for the volcano, the sea and the natural environment has resulted in thousands of visitors being given the experience of a lifetime on one of the world’s most accessible live volcanoes.

But how has this been achieved without having a severe negative impact on this unique natural wonder?

White Island is privately owned. It is also a scenic reserve and has been since the 1950s. Access on to the volcano is now very restricted but it hasn’t always been this way. When Jenny took her first visitor on to White Island, it was in the days when anyone could visit the island whenever they pleased. As a result, the island was not in the pristine condition that it is today.

The evidence of human presence was obvious.

Conditions improved in 1995 when access to the island was partially controlled by the introduction of permits

which the island’s owners asked Peter & Jenny to take responsibility for issuing each year. Then, in 1997, Peter & Jenny were appointed official guardians of the island and have since been instrumental in bringing about further regulations restricting access.

Now, the only way in which

anyone is permitted to visit the volcano is with one of four designated tourist operators.

In this way, Peter & Jenny’s goal can be achieved – to educate others about this fascinating natural laboratory while, at the same time, preserving it for future generations.

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WILD VALLEY

We are a cruise boat sailing the beautiful harbour in Tauranga

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White Island Volcano Adventure

Z N n i s r u o h The best two 0800 804 354 |

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eVeninG Glow worm KayaK tour - tauranGa

Magical, Enchanting, Surreal, AMAZING! If any of the above words described the activity you are looking for, the Glow-worm Kayak Tour is for you.

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The Glow worm cave and (especially) the thermal pools were extremely enjoyable activities. Highly recommend to everyone; I will be doing this again!”

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Hawke’s Bay

HAPPY IN HAWKE’S BAY

Hawkes Bay

Hawke’s Bay has a varied landscape, including mountains, hill country, coast and flat plains.

David Garner tries them all.

T

he Hawke’s Bay coast can be divided into two sections – the crescent of Hawke Bay between Mahia Peninsula and Cape Kidnappers, and the long, mostly straight, coast between Cape Kidnappers and Cape Turnagain to the south. Both have tall cliffs interspersed with sandy and stony beaches.

Mahia Peninsula was lifted from the sea floor, and was once an island. The tombolo (sand spit) that created the peninsula formed between Mahia Beach and Ōpoutama in the last 10,000 years.

Visitors are attracted by the warm climate, food and wine, and art deco architecture.

There are tramping (hiking) tracks in the mountains, and many rivers for water sports.

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Plants and animals Many native birds live in the region, and there are also native lizards, bats and large land snails.

Māori settlement Maori first settled in Hawke’s Bay around 1250–1300 AD. Ngati Kahungunu people, who became the main iwi (tribe) in the region, arrived during the 1500s. In the 1820s iwi from the north and west invaded parts of Hawke’s Bay, and the local population declined.

European arrival In 1769 Captain James Cook and his crew became the first Europeans to visit Hawke’s Bay. Whalers came, and many married Maori women. Other Europeans came to trade with Maori, and

missionaries visited and set up mission stations.

By the late 1840s pastoral farmers in Wairarapa were pushing north in a quest for more land. The first flock of sheep in Hawke’s Bay arrived in Pourerere in 1849.

From around 1850 European runholders (farmers) set up large sheep stations, mainly in central and northern Hawke’s Bay. Towns such as Napier and Wairoa were founded by the government, while Waipukurau and Hastings were created by farmers and land speculators.

In the 1870s settlers, many from Scandinavia, started clearing forest in southern Hawke’s Bay – an area that was known as the Seventy Mile Bush. They created farms and founded the towns of Dannevirke and Norsewood.

Town founding Early Hawke’s Bay towns grew up after the settlement of the country blocks by pastoral runholders (farmers). Napier (1855), Havelock North (1860) and Wairoa (1865) were founded by government, while Waipawa (1860), Waipukurau (1860s) and Hastings (1873) grew from subdivisions created by pastoralists and land speculators.

Tramping mission Missionary William Colenso was a keen explorer and botanist. When he first heard about the Ruahine Range in 1843, he was determined to cross it and collect botanical specimens, despite Māori chiefs telling him that many had died on its snowy peaks.

After pressing an unwilling guide into service in 1845, he got as far as the Te Atua-o-Mahuru summit near the Makaroro River (500 m up the eastern slope of the Ruahine Range, 5 km north of Waipawa), but had to turn back because his party ran out of food. He didn’t give up though, and successfully crossed the range from the west side in 1847.

Dinosaur lady In 1975 amateur paleontologist Joan Wiffen became the first person to discover and verify dinosaur fossils in New Zealand.

Until then it was believed that dinosaurs never existed in this country, but Wiffen’s work provided clear proof they had. She found the fossils in Mangahouanga Stream in northern Hawke’s Bay (north-west of Kotemāori), which has since proved to be a rich source of prehistoric remains.

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Grade 2 Grade 3 Grade 4/5 or expedition

Experience a world class river Email: norm@mohakarafting.co.nz Phone Land 06 8391808 on water 027 8258539

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TAILOR-MADE TOURS Taking you deep into the Hawke’s Bay countryside to visit special people and places. www.longislandguides.co.nz

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A GLIMPSE OF GISBORNE Peter Sinclair learns more about this jewel of the East Coast.

Gisborne is the first city in the world to see the sun each day and I certainly found there was no shortage of sunshine during my visit.

The Maori name for the district is Tairawhiti which means “The coast upon which the sun shines across the water”. Kaiti Beach,

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near the city, was where the Maori immigrational waka, Horouta, landed; and is also the first European landing place in New Zealand.

Captain Cook first set foot here in 1769. European settlement was established in 1831 and the town which developed was named after Hon. William Gisborne, the Colonial

Secretary, in 1870.

Prior to this the settlement was known as Turanga but confusion with Tauranga, Bay of Plenty, led to the name change. To the early Maori the Poverty Bay area was known as Turanganui-a-Kiwa, “The stopping place of Kiwa”. Gisborne became a borough in 1877 and a city in 1955.

Gisborne

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Taupo

GREAT LAKE TAUPO IN SUMMER

Taupo

Time to breathe in the fresh air and enjoy nature’s playground.

A

visit to Lake Taupo always gives me a reason to really appreciate how good life is in New Zealand. Away from congested roads, noise and the rushed lifestyle of the city, the Great Lake Taupo region gives me time to breathe in the fresh air and enjoy nature’s ultimate playground.

My first day in the region began with one of my favourite pastimes - jumping on my mountain bike and doing an easy ride, and by that I mean really easy. I’m not much of a rider, I just like to take a leisurely ride and look at the scenery, and there are some really nice options here.

The Great Lake Walk is one that can be ridden by everyone, it’s a lovely flat path that stretches from Taupo town ship all the way to 5 Mile Bay, and is super safe with amazing lake views down to the volcanic mountains of the Tongariro National Park.

This time though, I tried the Tongariro River Trail, which begins in Turangi and travels along the Tongariro River for around 9 easy, relatively flat kilometres. I stopped off at the Tongariro National Trout Centre for a break, it’s quite an amazing place to spend some time, there’s some cool interactive displays, the Genesis freshwater native aquarium has plenty of native fish to view and some really big eels kept safely in their tank, and of course 66

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there are thousands of hungry trout to feed in the outdoor pools and rivers.

I stopped here for lunch, parked up my bike by the river and relaxed. The Tongariro River Trail is a shared track, so please give way to walkers. If you don’t have a mountain bike of your own, the friendly team at Tongariro River Rafting have a great selection to hire, and can provide a guide as well if you prefer.

Mountain biking filled up a wonderful half day in Turangi, after this I drove along the Te Ponanga Saddle Road, SH47, towards the Whakapapa ski field and parked at the entrance to the walk around Lake Rotopounamu.

This is a really manageable 5 kilometre loop track around a pretty little lake just inside the Tongariro National Park, and except for the uphill at the beginning of the walk it is really easy. The birdlife and bush is beautiful and there’s a great little beach where you can stop off for a break or a swim in summer.

A leisurely walk around the lake takes about 2 hours, longer if you stop off for a break on the beach. After that, I headed down to the Tokaanu Hot Pools, which is a slice of Kiwiana paradise, for a soothing soak in thermal mineral water, before heading back to my accommodation.

Here’s a hint - if you’ve still got energy left over, there’s a short 10 minute walk

around a geothermal area featuring boiling water, bubbling mud and lots of steam vents, it’s located right next to the Tokaanu Thermal Pools, and what’s more, it’s free!

Just don’t stray from the path.

Arriving back in Taupo, I headed to Vine Eatery for a casual but very stylish dinner.

The menu is served as tasting plates, with a focus on Mediterranean flavours, so after a couple of these tasting plates and a glass of local sauvignon blanc, I was sorted for the evening.

Day two began with a relaxing breakfast at the wonderful French Café, on the outskirts of the CBD in Taupo. This is a truly authentic French experience, with French staff and a French menu. It was a warm morning, so I sat on the deck and watched the world go by whilst sipping my café au lait and eating my pain au chocolat. It was a divine experience, what a way to start the day.

Feeling replete, I wandered the town centre for several hours, exploring the shops and picking up a few bits and bobs. For a small town, Taupo offers a truly great retail experience - boutique not strip mall. With a quirky selection of funky art galleries, boutique clothing and house ware stores, plus some pretty handy outdoor retail outlets, there’s plenty of choice.

I called into several boutiques, and

TAUPO

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BIG LAKE BIG ADVENTURE Kinloch ta

a am ang ay Wh B

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o KaBipay

Western Bay

uta OkBay

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an ang y Wh Ba

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Acacia Bay

ip aka Wh Bay

Mine Bay

e Fiv ile M ay B gaio ton Ro Bay

Waitahanui

wa aka Kaw Bay

Kuratau

llets Ha Bay

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Te Rangiita

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spent a little money at Hi Fashion, a store which specialises in contemporary New Zealand designers. After that I visited Chef’s Complements, home to all things kitchen and food related. What a wonderful store, with gadgets, tools and accessories to suit every budget.

From here I headed out to 2 of the iconic tourism spots, first the Aratiatia Dam opening and then onto Huka Falls.

The Aratiatia Dam opens several times each day and offers a glimpse into how the Waikato River used to flow down through the Aratiatia Rapids, and there are several viewing platforms along the length of the river to watch from. Then it was onto the Hukafalls River Cruise boat, which is a leisurely 1 1⁄2 hour cruise to the base of the Huka Falls. The front of the boat opens up and allows guests to take fantastic photos of the water of the Waikato River thundering over the Huka Falls.

Finally, I grabbed some lunch at L’Arte Café and Mosaic Sculpture Garden, out on the Acacia Bay straight. The food here is delicious and the coffee full of flavour, but what really sets this café apart is the outdoor mosaic lounge and on-site gallery with working artist. After lunch I browsed the gallery and purchased a couple of quirky mosaic pieces. Then it was back into my car for the drive home!

mp

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Kayak from Acacia Bay round to the carvings and return.

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Ruapehu

FUN AND JET BOATS

Ruapehu

Janet Porterson discovers a hidden secret in the King Country.

T

aumarunui is one of the Worlds Greatest hidden secrets lies in the heart of the King-Country the largest Town in the Ruapehu Region. With the Timber Trail to the North, Mountains to the South, the Forgotten World Highway to the West and the mighty Whanganui River through the heart of the area, making Taumarunui pivotal in any travellers and adventurers itinerary.

Rich in colonial and pre-European history, beauty and diverseness, there

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are many ways by which one can absorb the uniqueness of Taumarunui.

Explore the winding waters of the mystic Whanganui River, one of our Countries Top 10 Great walks. Take a thrilling jet boat ride or go by canoe meandering downstream exploring the beauty it beholds at your own pace.

Ski the slopes of our majestic mountains, and walk the Famous Tongiriro Crossing during the summer along with viewing the forgotten world by self-driven rail carts.

The Timber Trail is nestled in the Pureora forest which boasts about some of the highest and longest suspension bridges in New Zealand. It weaves its way through ancient forests and across ancestral lands of local Maori Tribes. The Timber Trail is already the North Islands top Mountain Bike ride and can be experienced by people of all ages.

Taumarunui offers an authentic view into pristine unspoilt New Zealand and is like a forgotten world.

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Rotorua

A GEOTHERMAL SPECTACLE

Rotorua

Rotorua is home to one of the most unique tourism sites in the world. Aside from the breathtaking scenery of this volcanic-shaped wonderland, the 16 beautiful lakes in the region and the lush green of the abundant native flora, Rotorua is a geothermal paradise and the cultural heartland.

J

ourney to the heartland of Maori culture, to the centre of New Zealand’s spectacular geothermal wonderland and discover the spirits of Rotorua.

Located on a volcanic plateau which covers much of the Central North Island, Rotorua sits on an area that has been geologically exciting for millennia.

Geysers, hot mud pools and steaming craters are testament to the incredible earthen forces on display in this diversely 70

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beautiful location. Visit the geothermal areas in Rotorua for a truly magnificent display of the wonders of this region.

A visit to the museum located within the famous Rotorua Bath House will educate and intrigue with its extensive Maori heritage collections.

Be enriched by the Spirit of the Maori people and learn why the Arawa, the Maori of Rotorua, began the tradition of the cultural guides in New Zealand, bestowing the privilege of visiting some

of the natural wonders of their homeland to the first Europeans here.

With its richness in heritage and culture, the magnificent geothermal experience and the astonishing natural beauty of the landscape, Rotorua is a major center for tourism and there is an abundance of activities ranging from spiritually fulfilling to adrenaline charged action. Whatever your desire, be it tame or tempestuous, Rotorua will sweep you away on a journey of discovery and

wonder.

There are five main Geothermal Areas in which a variety of geysers, hot springs, boiling mud pools and hissing craters can be experienced up close.

Whakarewarewa Boasting the largest geyser in the country and approximately 500 hot springs, Whakarewarewa, the living village, is the most visited of Rotorua’s Geothermal Areas.

Tikitere (Hell’s Gate) Hell’s Gate is Rotorua’s most fierce Geothermal Area with boiling whirl pools, the largest hot waterfall in the Southern Hemisphere and many other truly amazing features.

Waimangu 20 minutes South of Rotorua, Waimangu Valley is a breathtaking tribute to the devastating eruption of Mount Tarawera over 100 years ago. The multi-coloured lakes and stunning landscape make this short trip a must.

Waiotapu Including some of the most colourful volcanic features such as the Champagne Pool, Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland is set among gorgeous native bush and is a short 20 minute drive from Rotorua.

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Taranaki

RETRACING THE SURF HIGHWAY

Taranaki

News reports of New Plymouth claiming the title ‘Surf City’ got ANTONY RHODES thinking about a pilgrimage to the Taranaki coastline he made as a considerably younger man. He retraces his steps around Surf Highway 45, and discovers the region has a lot more to offer than just great surf.

E

veryone has a rose-tinted recollection of that great Kiwi tradition – the road trip.

Generally these memories feature an endless summer, a large overloaded station wagon, and a farflung destination with a beach, lake or mountain.

My own was as a young surfer, in an overloaded Mini, along Taranaki’s 105km Surf Highway 45 which loosely follows the coast from Hawera in the south to New

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Plymouth in the north of the province.

Needless to say I jumped at the chance to revisit the journey, albeit in a car now overloaded with the paraphernalia of a young family instead of boards, and excited pre-schoolers in the seats once reserved for long-haired surfer mates.

Beginning early, as all good road trips do, we left Hawera and hit the coast. The mythical peak of Mount Taranaki was in full view, with barely a cloud in the sky on

this spring morning. The first stop in the town of Manaia, where we were welcomed by giant loaves of bread. These lured us into the bakery at the Yarrows bread factory, to load up on baked goodies.

Piling back in the car we head ten minutes along the Surf Highway to Kaupokonui Beach, where riverside picnic tables offer lovely views, and are soon laden with a range of fresh bread products.

A bridge spanning the crystal clear river leads to some sand hills and a long empty

beach, which offers many options for exploration.

Opunake itself is very well serviced, with enough cozy cafes to suggest it would make a great destination for a long weekend. We choose the surf shop above the beach for a caffeine fix, and get a great insight into the day’s surf conditions and local gossip. Of note are the town’s murals, which span everything from local history to the surf culture.

We make the short drive down to the lovely Opunake Beach, where a handful of surfers are enjoying the sheltered spring conditions. On land there’s a watery playground of a different kind, where a network of stainless steel pipes – perhaps a nod to the region’s oil and gas and dairying heritage – forms a changing curtain of water, to the delight of the kids.

About 8 kilometres north of Opunake we stop at one of the few signs of the local oil industry, the Maui Production Station at Oaonui. The visitor centre has a range of

scale models of the Maui A and B offshore platforms, and even of the lifeboats that had both the kids and their parents enthralled.

Back on Surf Highway 45, we notice some interesting geographic features, in addition to the picture-perfect mountain to our left. The hundreds of small round hills, remnants of ancient lahars that flowed from the mountain, punctuate the landscape, many still showing the scars of hand-hewn pa sites.

A detour down Cape Road leads us through more of these almost comical hills to the Cape Egmont Lighthouse, which marks the western-most point of Taranaki.

The lighthouse has a very rich history, from its construction in England in the 1850s to its first home on Wellington’s Mana Island.

It was then a casualty of Taranaki’s land wars – the passive resistance movement based at nearby Parihaka delayed its construction by several years.

A museum to the light has been built at

the end of nearby Bayley Road.

In the town of Okato we stop for lunch at the aptly named Lahar, a fantastically laid back café that clearly also serves as a community hub. The coffee and the food are spot on, and we get our second surf report of the day from the friendly staff.

Well fuelled, we head to the coast at the seaside community of Oakura to run off some energy on the black-sand beach, again with the ever-present backdrop of Mount Taranaki, before exploring the art and craft studios of Oakura village.

The Taranaki coast is home to a vibrant and creative community, who clearly relish the dramatic landscape that spans mountain to surf in only a few kilometres.

In fact, Taranaki is one of the few places in the world where you can ski and surf on the same day.

Approaching New Plymouth, via the scenic coast road above Back Beach, we veer off to the equally attractive Port Taranaki, and its sheltered Breakwater Bay

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precinct. Featuring an impressive array of businesses and cafes, we head to Chaddie’s Charters, for a fantastic journey in a restored English lifeboat to the seal colonies and marine park around the Sugarloaf Islands off New Plymouth’s coast.

We round off our adventure around Surf Highway 45 with dinner at Gusto, a restaurant extending over the water at Breakwater Bay and offering a delicious array of local fare.

From here it’s a short stroll along New Plymouth’s Coastal Walkway to our cliff top cabin at the Belt Road Holiday Park, with views across the front porch that rival anything we’ve seen all day, particularly as the sun goes down on our great Kiwi road trip.

Open 7 Days Monday to Friday 9am - 5pm Saturday & Sunday 10am - 4pm

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Wellington

 CLASSY, CULTURAL WELLINGTON

Wellington

W

For Latesha Randall, Wellington lives up to its accolades.

e’ve just arrived in Wellington; named by Lonely Planet the ‘coolest little capital in the world’.

It also lays claim to a few more titles – New Zealand’s coffee capital (there are over 15 coffee roasteries), the cuisine capital (with apparently more places to eat out per capita than New York!) and, as proudly displayed on the airport, ‘The Middle of Middle Earth’.

Despite the notorious wind, there are plenty of reasons to explore Wellington and I’m excited about what’s ahead. First things first though – it’s time to check into the Cambridge Hotel (fondly known by 78

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locals as the ‘Camby’), right in the CBD on Cambridge Terrace.

This historic building has been around since 1883, and is a popular local haunt, with a pub, bar and bistro below the hotel rooms. I have a chat to manager Finnbarr, who tells me they have a very international team.

“We pretty much cover the globe really – we have around 55 staff with people from Ireland, Canada, Brazil, France, Thailand, Spain ... you name it! This place is for anyone; it’s affordable, central, and always has fun events going on.”

It’s a very cosy place. We use the vintage lifts with its two manual sliding

doors to travel up to our room, and then it’s time to head out for dinner to Muse on Allen, which recently made headlines for taking out the Wellington on a Plate Award for best menu.

I’m stunned to find out that owner and head chef, Samuel North, is a mere 22 years old! “I always knew I wanted my own place,” he tells me. “It’s what I’ve been working towards.” It turns out we came on the right night – it’s the celebration of Muse’s 1 year anniversary, and the team all seem in a particularly good mood.

Were looked after by Nino and Pierre, both gregarious Europeans who are more than happy to pause for a chat in

between serving and clearing. My partner has the pork fillet with home-made pork and fennel sausage, carrot compote and pork crackling, and I select the vegetarianfriendly agria potato gnocchi with porcini mushroom; both cooked and plated beautifully.

Being an undeniable sweet-tooth, its the dessert that really blows me away though.

I have Samuel’s personal favourite, a banana mille-feuille with custard, salted caramel ice cream and the most gorgeous little popcorn cone.

I exclaim with every mouthful about how amazing it is, and neglect to offer even a taste to Seb, leaving him to enjoy his yoghurt and honey panna cotta with pistachio crumble.

Before we leave, I ask Samuel if he follows other chefs to keep inspired. “I don’t really pay attention to trends. I just stay focused on doing my own thing – making traditional-style food with a difference.” I hope he continues doing just that!

The next morning I’m off to an early start – breakfast at Nikau Café with Wellington’s Mayor, Celia Wade-Brown. With the help

of three different friendly Wellingtonians I find my way there, amazed at how eager everyone is to help a slightly lost stranger so early in the morning!

When I tell Celia, she says in her so English accent this is nothing out of the norm. “People here love to help – it’s a very friendly community, despite being a ‘city’. We consider ourselves one of the friendliest places in New Zealand.”

You can tell that she is passionate about the place she’s made home, and knows exactly what’s going on ... when I ask about what’s coming up with summer around the corner, Celia has so much to tell me that it’s a struggle to eat my muesli and take notes at the same time!

There’s the annual‘Summer City’ from the start of January, a 3 month series of free, family-friendly events in parks and public spaces, including Chinese New Year festivities and the Pasifika Festival.

Then of course the Rugby Sevens matches on the 7th and 8th of February and the International Arts Festival from the 21st February to 16th March. Summer is a busy time for Wellington! “It’s fabulous,” says Celia, “I love that I can live on the

South Coast, go kayaking, cycle to work, and be so close to world-class theatre and performances.” As I listen, I begin to understand why people choose to settle in this walkable, artsy city.

Filled with Celia’s suggestions, it’s time to do some walking myself, and we set off to nearby Te Papa – New Zealand’s national museum, the size of 3 rugby fields and packed with creative displays that tell the story of our young, vibrant country.

We see posters everywhere for the ‘Aztecs – Conquest and Glory’ exhibition, which will run from late September to 9th February. It hasn’t arrived yet though, so we wander from floor to floor, learning interesting wildlife facts that we’d never heard before, taking in the 25 years of World of Wearable Arts showcase, and watching a funny doco that follows everyday Kiwis; brilliantly capturing the cheeky sense of humour and love of nature we share as New Zealanders.

Hours fly past, and it’s suddenly time to leave the hanging garments behind in exchange for the real thing – we have tickets to the WOW dress rehearsal, my first experience of this successful event

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that brings lovers of creativity from around the country (and overseas) to see the weird, wacky and wonderful creations that designers have dreamed up.

It doesn’t disappoint – in fact, it’s mindblowing. This is no catwalk runway event, it’s a full-on 2 hour production with circus fantasy, dance, song, and amazing special effects – with outfits you would never have thought possible adorning the models, who are clearly having the time of their lives!

I fall asleep later that night with strange and sparkling creatures roving through my dreams. We head to seaside suburb Miramar the next day, to see for ourselves the film-­‐making hub that has brought millions of dollars into the economy and given people all around the world a desire to experience New Zealand’s beauty.

Location wise it is definitely no Hollywood.

The big warehouses and industrial buildings don’t have glowing signs announcing the role they play, but this is the part of town where Weta Workshops create magic.

Inside the Weta Cave we sign up for the tour to take a little peek behind the scenes.

Our group of 15 follow Weta technician Kim, as she gives us the rundown on the incredible amount of work and dedication it takes to make the props for blockbuster movies like Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit, Avatar, The Chronicles of Narnia, Elysium, and King Kong. She shows us pieces that took untold hours, and never even ended up in the intended film. “You learn not to be precious about props – the film is the final piece of art.”

Theres a proper armory, where all the swords and metal-work are made. For LOTR, two guys were hired specifically to join chain mail links together – over the course of the films, they connected 250 million links, and by the end had worn their fingerprints off! At one point in the tour, the kid in front of me turns to his Mum and says in a stage whisper, “This is AWESOME.” I agree. The attention to detail that goes into creating everything we see here is astounding.

After the tour, Daniel Falconer takes

the time to have a quick chat with us.

He’s been with Weta for the last 16 years – starting out as a conceptual designer, and now flexing his creative muscles on a writing project - developing a series of behind the scenes, coffee-table style books about The Hobbit.

The aim is to release two books per film, taking readers on a journey of how the movies are created. Incredibly articulate and personable, Daniel tells us that he feels lucky to indulge his creativity every day. A self-confessed project magpie, he says it’s a privilege to work with Richard Taylor (co-founder of Weta, alongside partner Tania), who he describes as an astute businessman, who fundamentally “just loves making cool things”. There are definitely plenty of cool things coming out of Weta – just another feather in Wellington’s creative cap.

This is a city filled with colour and life. A place that takes pride in being small but standing tall regardless. I fly home from Wellington thinking that it really has earned the title of coolest little capital in the world.

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0800 TO GO APE

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Blenheim

CHANGING FACE OF BLENHEIM

Nelson Tasman

Blenheim is named after the Battle of Blenheim (1704), where troops led by John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlborough defeated a combined French and Bavarian force.

F

or centuries Blenheim has offered safe harbour to travellers sailing to the spectacular South Island: first the Maori traders and war parties; then explorers like Captain James Cook and Dumont d’Urville; and now, to visitors seeking a retreat from city pressures, as they discover the unspoilt haven and foodie heaven that is Marlborough today.

Blenheim, with a population of 28,200, is the commercial hub of Marlborough

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(population 42,300). Originally a provincial service town to the farming community, it is increasingly geared towards urban lifestyle, visitor needs and the dominant wine industry, a meld of modern sophistication and relaxed ambience.

Blenheim’s attractions include its wine industry, the Marlborough Sounds, gourmet foods and adventure activities.

The area which surrounds the town is well known as a centre of New Zealand’s

wine industry. It enjoys one of New Zealand’s sunniest climates, with hot, relatively dry summers and crisp winters.

The Marlborough region in which Blenheim is situated has a wide range of leisure activities, from swimming with dolphins in the Marlborough Sounds to watching whales in Kaikoura; from walks through the bush and along the rugged coastline, as well as scenic boat cruising, fishing, water-skiing and kayaking.

The annual Wine Marlborough festival

(second Saturday in February each year) is held in Blenheim.

It is a show-case for the region’s bounty and draws people from all over the world to taste Marlborough’s wines.

A number of wineries are located on the towns edges, with many more just a short drive away.

Synonymous internationally for its distinctive, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. It is New Zealand’s largest winemaking region with around 65 wineries and 290 grape growers and over 4000 hectares planted in grapes, mainly Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer.

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Ph 035727948 | Mob 021 359366 Check out our website www.maraqetalodge.co.nz

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Blenheim... Wine country

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Nelson

GIFTED NELSON

Nelson Tasman

A mild, sunny climate year-round and magnificent landscapes, that range from alpine lakes and raging rivers to wide sandy coastlines, provide a backdrop for adventure.

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ational Parks are surrounded by fertile countryside providing fresh produce: berries, olives, apples and pears. Grapes and hops also thrive and are handcrafted into fine wines and thirstquenching brews, and the surrounding bays provide the ocean’s bounty.

Pick your path through rolling hills and coastal landscapes visiting gourmet food producers, boutique wineries and breweries, and the studios of an extraordinary artistic community that 86

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thrives here.

Vibrant coastal towns are full of bustling cafes, charming boutiques and funky art galleries, waiting to be leisurely explored.

Port Nelson is the largest fishing port in Australasia. Fresh fish, scallops, clams and mussels feature on the menus of creative chefs. Nelson winemakers are renowned for aromatic varieties – a perfect match for seafood. Or enjoy a cold ale at the end of day exploring - craft brewers are a plenty with serious pubs

and breweries aplenty.

Abel Tasman National Park is New Zealand’s smallest but most visited national park. It combines lush native bush, golden sands, turquoise waters, rugged limestone cliffs and tidal lagoons.

The Abel Tasman Coast Track, one of the Department of Conservation’s “Great Walks” offers easy to moderate hiking.

Kahurangi National Park is the second largest national park in New Zealand.

Some 570km of incredible tramping tracks span 452,000ha from Golden Bay in the

north, south to Murchison and Tapawera, and to the West Coast of the South Island.

Kahurangi is the home of the largest remaining population of Great Spotted Kiwi. Another designated Department of Conservation “Great Walk “, the Heaphy Track traverses from Golden Bay to Karamea, over craggy ranges, alpine meadows, valleys of native palms, and ruggedly beautiful coastline Maori culture Maori occupation goes back to the 14th century. There are six indigenous iwi of Te Tau Ihu (Nelson Tasman): Ngati Tama, Te Atiawa, Ngati Koata, Ngati Kuia, Ngati Toa and Ngati Rarua.

Dutch explorer, Abel Janszoon Tasman’s 1642 voyage of discovery is the

earliest known contact between Maori and Europeans. A heritage-listed memorial in Golden Bay marks the tragic meeting, which resulted in the death of four sailors and Tasman’s departure from the region now named after him.

European settlement of Nelson occurredin 1842. Evidence of the lifestyles these early settlers lived can be found at Broadgreen Historic House, Isel House or Founders Heritage Park. The historic village of Sarau – originally settled by German immigrants. Now named Upper Moutere, this is a charming village with historic buildings, surrounded by orchards and vineyards.

Artists get inspired and craftsmen get creative in Nelson and its environment.

The region is home to over 300 working artists and supports a thriving creative arts culture.

Prowl the lanes and meet local artisans selling their wares. The World of Wearable Art & Classic Cars Museum showcases a selection of the winning entries from the annual WOW Awards Show.

Studying the intricacies of the garments up close, you gain the impression their creators stitch a little piece of their soul into each masterpiece.

Take your time to also explore the wonderful classic car gallery.

Ceramic pioneers–Christine Boswijk, Katie Gold, Royce McGlashen are names of note. Visit South St Gallery for a selection of works by local potters.

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E-Mail: riverhavencabins@xtra.co.nz

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www.abeltasmankayaks.co.nz

YONDER STAR

EXPLORE Y 19 EST 86

onder Star is an 87’ Ketch and is one of New Zealand’s finest yachts based in the South Island city of Nelson. Yonder Star is available to the discerning traveller and corporate client for ½ day, full day, overnight or week-long day charters in the Abel Tasman region, minimum 3-day charters in the Marlborough Sounds, or minimum 5-day charters in The Bay of Islands.

Wedding and honeymoon packages are also available on request for the Abel Tasman and Marlborough Sound regions, and are specifically designed to meet clients’ requirements exactly.

Yonder Star can cater up to 28 guests for half and full day charters or functions, and up to 8 guests for overnight charters in a total of 4 cabins, each with en-suite bathroom. She comes fully crewed with captain, chef and crew members, and offers a range of on-board activities, ie: full library of CD and books, wakeboard, skiing, fishing, snorkeling, ski-biscuit, two kayaks etc.

The dining experience onboard Yonder Star offers ever-changing views, with guests dining alfresco in the cockpit area or the pilot house, or for a more formal dining experience, in the luxury of the saloon. Yonder Star’s chef has a focus on providing fresh food and beverages from the Nelson/Tasman region.

Yonder Star’s luxurious interior and beautifully appointed cabins provide a sense of effortless warmth and sophistication. From the very moment your enquiries begin, you’ll enjoy the undivided attention of the Yonder Star team.

Call them today to find out more on 0800 YONDER (0800 966 337) (NZ Freephone only), or email yonderstar@yonderstarcharters.co.nz www.yonderstarcharters.co.nz

“We cannot express enough what a perfect wedding day we had - it truly exceeded all of our wildest expectations. The weather was amazing, the boat (of course) unreal, and we cannot speak highly enough of Grant, Hayden and Lynette. Every detail was just spot on.” Rick & Melissa.

“The crew couldn’t have done a better job of showing us a good time and making it a spectacular time regardless of the weather. You can’t get a better crew then Grant, Hayden and Lynette and we felt lucky to be in their competent and friendly hands. With all of the amazing food Lynette served it will be amazing if I can actually fit into my wedding dress on Saturday.” Cynthia, Nelson.

“The blending of Yonder Star and our stunning Nelson haven is a tourism gem that all of Nelson should be so proud of. The level of professionalism and constant communication from Carolyn resulted in a faultless and most memorable evening for all of our team. We assure you that you have created strong advocates for one of the best local specialty events that can be sourced in Nelson.” Haven Realty, Nelson.

Length: 87’ (26.5m) Beam: 22’ (6.7m) Draft: 7’ 8” (2.3m) Designer: Don Brook Building: Thackwray Yachts, New Zealand Launched: 1980 Rebuilt: 1999 Major Refit/Upgrade: 2003 Cabins: 4 (1 x Queen + 3 x Doubles, or 2 Doubles with Single Bunk overhead) each with en-suite

EST 1986

Capacity: 8 overnight and 28 day guests maximum Engine: Gardner 175HP (drives a Hundested variable pitch propeller) Speed: 9.5 knots Accommodation: 28 day guests maximum and 8 overnight in total 4 cabins, each with en-suite bathroom.

Marine Mammal Watching Permit

Freephone 0800 732 529 or 03 527 8022 88

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Equipment: Multi-system TV/VCR/DVD, sound stream stereo system throughout vessel with individual remote controls.

Leisure: AQUAPRO 4.2 metre RIB with a 50HP four stroke Yamaha, wakeboard, water-skis, fishing and snorkelling equipment, a ski biscuit and two kayaks.

Nelson’s exclusive floating residence for the discerning traveller.

Discover Nelson-Tasman’s hidden coves and treasures.

Sophisticated and luxurious.

Yonder Star’s 87’ proportions and interior will enchant.

Yonder Star Limited, PO Box 1242, Nelson 7040, New Zealand Call +64 3 545 7600 | Email: yonderstar@yonderstarcharters.co.nz | Visit: www.yonderstarcharters.co.nz

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89

Kaikoura

KAIKOURA’S FAMOUS FOR DOLPHIN ENCOUNTERS

Kaikoura

Kaikoura, located midway between Christchurch and Pictor, offers a wealth of things to see and do.

K

aikoura is a small coastal village that has an incredible vista; a large mountain range (the Seaward Kaikoura’s) provides a dramatic backdrop to the town centre located on the east side of a small peninsula extending out into the Pacific Ocean. This stunning view alone captivates those who visit Kaikoura.

The village is blessed with natural

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attractions revolving around the ocean and mountains and many of its tourist activities involve these natural assets.

Encounter Kaikoura, which is the headquarters for the Dolphin Encounter operation, also operates the Albatross Encounter with Ocean Wings tour that focuses on the many species of seabird off the Kaikoura Coastline.

The viewing of marine life, namely

whales, dolphins, seals and birds is the main reason visitors come to Kaikoura, but there are many other attractions such as walks, fishing, scuba diving, 4 wheel adventures, Maori Tours, a wonderful golf course and a relaxing day spa with much more on offer.

Dolphin Encounter pioneered dolphin swimming in Kaikoura New Zealand in 1989/90 and have developed the tours for those wishing

to enhance their understanding of dolphins in their natural environment. It is a truly unique experience! Our tours have two options, watching (viewing) or swimming, both these options occur on the same boats.

Watching: The opportunity to go out and watch the dusky dolphins from Dolphin Encounter boats gives visitors wonderful views of these spectacular and acrobatic dolphins. As well as this, there is the opportunity to witness any interaction between the dolphins and swimmers, who are also on the same boat. Â Swimming: The dusky dolphins inhabit the coastal waters off Kaikoura all year round, making Kaikoura a unique place in the world where wild dolphins can be encountered every day, weather permitting. It is this fact that sets our operation apart and its success rate of swimming with dolphins is second to none.

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HOW WHALE WATCHING RESCUED KAIKOURA

Whale Watch is a multiple award winning New Zealand nature tourism company owned and operated by the indigenous Kati Kuri people of Kaikoura, a Maori sub-tribe of the South Island’s larger Ngai Tahu Tribe.

W

ale Watch was formed in 1987 at a time when Maori were casualties of Kaikoura’s declining economy. At this time of difficulty, Kati Kuri leaders like Bill Solomon believed the local Sperm Whales held the answer to the unemployment problems of the Maori community.

They knew their ancestor Paikea had journeyed to a new life in New Zealand on the back of the whale Tohora.

It seemed appropriate for Paikea’s descendants to again ride on the back of the whale to a new life.

And so it proved to be.

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The Kati Kuri founders of Whale Watch mortgaged their houses to secure a loan to start the business. In the early days passengers travelled aboard a small inflatable vessel.

In time, the inflatable was replaced by a larger boat with an upper viewing deck - the Uruao - until today the Whale Watch fleet numbers four modern catamarans each specially designed for whale watching.

The expansion of the Whale Watch fleet required the building of an entire marina in South Bay. It is from here that all whale watching tours now depart.

Due to the phenomenal success of Whale Watch, Kaikoura is now one of New Zealand’s leading tourism experiences offering a diverse range of exciting marine wildlife encounters.

The company has stimulated investment in new accommodation, restaurants and an impressive array of cafes and galleries filled with the work of local artists.

Paikea and Tohora still form the symbolic centre of Whale Watch.

They represent the spiritual bond between the human world and the natural world and speak of the possibilities that reveal themselves when the world of nature is revered rather than exploited.

WHO IS PAIKEA? The Whale Rider According to legend, Paikea came to New Zealand from the Pacific Islands on the back of a whale many centuries ago. His descendants include the Kati Kuri people of Kaikoura.

Paikea was the youngest and favourite son of the chief Uenuku from the island of Mangaia in the present day Cook Islands. This favouritism made Paikea’s elder brothers extremely jealous. They conspired to kill Paikea while fishing offshore and tell Uenuku he drowned. But the night before the trip Paikea feigned sleep and overheard his brothers plotting.

When far out to sea Paikea foiled their plan by deliberately sinking the canoe and drowning his brothers.

Now adrift in a great ocean, Paikea clung to a canoe plank and awaited his own death. It was then that Tohora the whale appeared and lifted Paikea onto his great back. Tohora took Paikea south to New Zealand and the settlement of Whangara just north of present day orne. Here, Paikea began a new and prosperous life.

Many years later one of Paikea’s sons, Tahupotiki, travelled further south and became the founder of the great South Island tribe of Ngai Tahu. It is from Tahupotiki and Paikea that the Ngai Tahu and Kati Kuri of Kaikoura claim descent

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The Whaleway Station, Kaikoura, Email: res@whalewatch.co.nz, book your tour online at www.whalewatch.co.nz FREEPHONE 0800 WHALES (0800 655 121)

Café Encou

nter

Enjoy a delic ious breakf ast, lunch, snack or co ffee at our beachfront Café. There’ s outdoor se ating with beautif ul views an d plenty of pa rking too.

TM

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West Coast

LEARNING TO SURF THE WEST COAST

West Coast

The wild West Coast is a great place to catch some waves.

W

hen backpacking around New Zealand we were drawn to the Buller District by the very reasonable cost of adventure activities and accommodation compared to some of the main centres - not to mention the stunning scenery and variety of experiences. Having recently enjoyed a few surfing lessons in Australia, we decided to head from Nelson to Westport to take another one with West Coast Surf.

It was a beautiful day as we headed out on the 15-minute drive to “the Cape” from Westport and on to Tauranga Bay for 96

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our Surf lesson with West Coast Surf. We pulled up on the grass and were met by Mark Perana (Puke to his friends) who is one of NZ’s longest serving and wellrespected surf coaches (however he’d be the last person to tell you this). Mark is an ex NZ Champ and has been coaching and developing the sport of surfing in New Zealand for over three decades.

We received a friendly West Coast welcome – Mark was very laid back and we immediately felt at ease. We were kitted out with wet suits and boards and made our way down to the beach.

The locations we had surfed in OZ held

nothing to this area. Tauranga Bay is a pretty and intimate little area popular with the locals for surfing, walks etc. Out to the East we could see people walking up to the Seal Colony to view the seals and to visit the lighthouse of Cape Foulwind.

Being beginners we started off on the beach for our lesson. There was a small group of four of us which was ideal as it gave Mark the ability to focus on each of us and really teach us a lot.

We learned about the rips (currents) in the bay and how to come back in to the beach safely, how to paddle out and how to handle our board to avoid taking out our

walk the

treetops

freephone: 0508 TREETOPS phone: 03 755 5052 email: info@treetopsnz.com

www.treetopsnz.com 12 MINUTES SOUTH OF HOKITIKA, WEST COAST, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND

mates. We then went through the trickier bits like standing up and balancing on the board. We were certainly warm in our wetsuits after practicing on the beach and found the water very refreshing.

It was a glorious day and we didn’t mind one bit that we could see locals on the other side of the bay looking like pros while we dawdled around in the shallows.

In no time at all we were all standing up and riding small waves back in. What a rush you get when you ride a wave, managing to balance and not fall off.

We definitely noticed a huge difference between this lesson and the previous ones we had done.

The personal attention we received from Mark, his commitment to safety and level of experience could not be challenged.

He really customised the lesson to suit our abilities, we really felt the lesson was excellent value for money and that our surfing and knowledge of it was a million times better than before we had started.

After we had dried off we headed up to the nearby Bay House for a spot of lunch we had certainly worked up an appetite with all that surfing. After lunch we took a short, relaxing stroll up to the Seal Colony and enjoyed looking down at the Seals and their little babies. I would highly recommend a visit to Westport and Tauranga Bay if you are travelling around the top of the South Island. In fact we enjoyed the area so much and found there were so many hidden gems to visit that we ended up staying an extra two nights to take in some of the other Eco and Heritage experiences of the area. (see www.buller.co.nz and www.wcsurf. co.nz for more details) www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Christchurch

YOU SAY POHATU Canterbury

Damien Hindmarsh takes a plunge by going off-road to visit the Pohatu Marine Reserve and penguin colony.

I

have to admit I’m a city boy, so it always comes as a bit of thrill to feel that I’m really ‘getting away from it all’.

For me, there is no better way to realise that you have left the boundaries of normality than when the tarmac on a sealed road ends and you start driving on gravel, sand or the bare earth.

Therefore, it feels special to know that the Pohatu Marine Reserve, on Banks Peninsula near Christchurch, is normally only accessed by four-wheel drive vehicle.

Pohatu pa or Flea Bay is rich with fish and shellfish.

And where there is fish, there are plenty

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of birds and Pohatu is particularly lucky to have the largest Little Penguin colony on mainland New Zealand.

Because of the sensitive wildlife habitat only guided groups are taken into the breeding colony to view the Whiteflippered Penguins and visitors also can see one of the Yellow Eyed Penguins who frequent the bay.

Francis and Shireen Helps have protected the white-flippered penguins on their sheep farm for more than two and half decades and have won recognition in a number of awards for their work in penguin and habitat conservation.

Their Pohatu Penguins and Pohatu

Plunge businesses offer 4WD and sea kayak tours of the area.

Their 4WD van safaris will take you to see penguins in their natural environment.

These nimble vehicles take you over the highest passes on Banks Peninsula and enables you to experience the spectacular and dramatic scenery from the crater rim of ancient Akaroa Volcano to volcanic coastal cliffs.

Conservation projects for protection of penguins, lizards and insects can be seen as well as the beautiful red beech forest of Tutakakahikura Scenic Reserve with five species of treeferns.

For those who want to get even close to nature, there is the opportunity to take to

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the sea in a kayak.

A large fleet of safe stable doubles and experienced guides enables even the inexperienced to enjoy an unforgettable experience.

The outer coast of Pohatu Marine Reserve is spectacular with towering sea cliffs sculpted through the ages by the sea into rock stacks, reefs, and deep sea caves. Even if the outer coast is too rough for kayaking the sheltered bay has a lot to offer. Pohatu/ Flea Bay is home to seals that can almost always be seen lounging on the rocks or swimming nearby. During the breeding or moulting season penguins are often found sitting in and around rock crevices, or maybe swimming out on the water of the bay.

Often Hectors Dolphins will swim along with the kayaks.

Enjoy the beautiful view over Akaroa Harbour and the endless Pacific Ocean!

Conservation projects for protection of penguins, lizards and insects can be seen as well as the beautiful red beech forest of Tutakakahikura Scenic Reserve with five species of treeferns.

For those who want a total immersion, there is the ‘Pohatu Package’, a 24 hour journey to the reserve, including accommodation overnight.

The package enables you to enjoy all activities Pohatu has to offer and free time to explore or relax.

The package offers a scenic 4WD adventure over one of the highest passes on Banks Peninsula, including on demand photo stops.

Experience the Helps’ conservation projects in action as they monitor penguins and endemic fauna.

Visit the beautiful Beech forest of the Tutakakahikura Scenic Reserve. A two and a half hour valley bush walk can be included along the world famous Banks Peninsula Track past beautiful waterfalls cascading over ancient lava flows to the sea.

At the end of the day, visitors stay the night on a working sheep station and in the middle of the penguin colony in cosy self-catering accommodation within meters from a safe swimming beach. In season, there is an evening penguin tour to view the White-flippered Penguins.

The next day, it’s time to enjoy a great sea kayaking experience along the dramatic coastline of Pohatu Marine Reserve with endemic wildlife viewing opportunities before wending your way back to the city, with a batch of unforgettable memories.

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Pohatu Penguins

4WD Penguin safaris to the largest Little Penguin colony on mainland New Zealand

s n

Accommodation activity packages give more time to enjoy this special sheep farm packed with penguin burrows with Pohatu Marine Reserve on it’s door step.

Pohatu Marine Reserve sea Kayaking

Spend a night in the middle of the penguin colony

Pohatu Penguins/Plunge NZ ltd www.pohatu.co.nz email tours@pohatu.co.nz Phone 03 304 8542 mobile www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com 79 021 246 9556 100

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Dunedin

EXPLORE DUNEDIN LIKE AN INSIDER

Dunedin

When you are planning your stay in Dunedin, my recommendation is to add an extra couple of days onto your itinerary!

Y

ou will need it to explore the Insiders Dunedin secrets that you will find hidden throughout the region. Around each corner and nestled in every bay lies local gems just waiting for you to discover them; here’s a few I uncovered recently: When driving to Larnach Castle, take the incredibly gorgeous high road, with unbelievable views of the peninsula, cliffs, and beaches. Then take in the equally stunning views of the city, on the way back into town by taking the low road.

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Just off the high road is the fabulous Sandfly Bay, pretend that you are in the desert! The dunes are like visiting another planet so high and so vast, with pretty blonde sea lions dotted along the beach or snoozing in the tussock.

Take a detour when arriving from the south, Outram has a collection of tasty wee stores. Take a nosey around and make sure you see the iconic butchery, pub, vintage store and the fab Wobbly Goat cafe. Stop for a real fruit ice-cream and stock up on berry treats McArthurs

Berry Farm.

On the Waikouiti-Waitati Road, 15kms north of Dunedin, be sure to visit Colin Dennison at the award winning Evansdale Cheese factory. The Evansdale Cheese story starts way back in the ’70s when Colin Dennison, a secondary school teacher from Dunedin, had a Jersey cow named Daffodil who produced so much milk it was fast becoming a problem.

You will also find Evansdale at the Otago Farmers Market…see below for details!

Feel like you are in a Victorian novel and

visit the stunning and evocative Tunnel Beach, where in the 1870’s John Cargill, a son of Captain William Cargill, excavated a tunnel down to a secluded beach so that the Cargill families could bathe in privacy.

It has been called the most romantic spot in Dunedin.

Try the duck eggs on the menu at the Good Earth Cafe near the University of Otago’s campus.

Be the early bird and visit the Otago Farmers Market at Dunedin’s stunning Railway Station from 8.00am – 12.30pm every Saturday morning, tarts and breads, Manuka-smoked eggs, coffee, herbs, produce, seafood and community fun are the best way to start your weekend.

Fish and chips at Brighton Beach, because there’s safe swimming and the whole place is family-friendly in a 1950’s/ home-video kind of way.

Historic Port Chalmers has the tasty Port-o-call cafe and the Port Royale Restaurant, Carey’s Bay Hotel has the most delicious seafood platters, perfect for lunch. Box of Birds is a great retro rummaging store. The whole port area is ideal for wandering and dreaming about its fascinating past.

For a great perspective and an ideal photo spot look out to the ocean from the old pier site, on St Clair Beach.

Take the kids out for an airing at the Dinosaur Park at St Kilda, and bring their bikes and scooters! Sometimes the Otago Model Engineering Society next door has an open day which makes it even more exciting.

Tackle the world’s steepest street Baldwin Street, on North Dunedin. Try counting the steps or run a couple laps with local Dave Kernahan, who runs up and down the street 30, yes 30 times a day.

This Summer explore Dunedin’s cultural, sporting, and community diversity through the city’s event-rich calendar. Join in the celebrations and be part of something special whilst you are here.

The Urge 3 Peaks Enduro – 7th December 2013 – Ride Up, Race Down. Enduro racing combines the fun, social side of mountain biking with friends and the adrenalin and excitement of downhill racing.

3 – 7 December BLACKCAPS vs West Indies - Test Match - University Oval t2014 February 8th Feb - Thieves Alley Market Day - Join several thousand treasure hunters at the biggest Market Day of the year 1st Feb - Ride The Rhythm – Equestrian and music event at Forsyth Barr Stadium 1st -9th February NZ Masters Games - 9 day event comprising 70+ different sports Super XV Rugby Competition March 1-2 March Armegeddon Expo – Sci Fi extravaganza 13-23 March - Dunedin Fringe Festival - Enjoy the wild ride that is the Fringe Festival, art, theatre, performance and so much more.

30 March – 6 April iD Dunedin Fashion Week – includes week of fabulous fashion events and International Emerging Designer Awards and fashion shows at the iconic Dunedin Railway Station

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Your only CHANCE TO SEE

...the world’s only mainland breeding colony of the ROYAL ALBATROSS, on the Otago Peninsula, a short scenic drive from Dunedin Guided tours, souvenir shop & superb café.

ϔ

TPU\[L KYP]L MYVT +\ULKPU (PYWVY[ [V [OL SP[[SL [V^U VM 4PS[VU ^L [\YULK VMM [V^HYKZ *HZJHKL *YLLR 9L[YLH[ (Z K\ZR HWWYVHJOLK ^L JV\SK MLLS [OL stresses of life lifting as we drove along the undulating path past lush green ÄLSKZ HUK VU [V [OL UH[P]L I\ZO ]HSSL` ;OLU ^L JH\NO[ ZPNO[ VM V\Y UH[\YHS SVN cabin glowing warmly.

On entering the feeling of homeliness enveloped us, helped by a roaring log ÄYL [OH[ ^HZ YHKPH[PUN [OYV\NOV\[ HUK OVTL IHRLK JHRLZ I` [OL LU[YHUJL What struck us most was the rustic luxury combined with the eco-friendly principles that had been used in the creation of the sturdy log cabin. This romantic, secluded log cabin has been created completely off the grid and is totally solar powered, at one with its surroundings. For our peace of mind, on booking we had opted for a Cascade Creek Classic Basket. That took care of dining. We admired the freshness of the food and meticulous attention to detail that went in to its presentation.

We stepped out on to the verandah. There was a chorus of song echoing from the abundance of native birds within arm’s reach. We enjoyed hearing bell birds, tuis, fantails and wood pigeon. We knew the next morning we would be exploring the native bush tracks in the hope of seeing New Zealand’s rare native falcon.

Dunedin

BOOKINGS FREEPHONE

0800 528 767 www.albatross.org.nz 50 104

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118 High St Dunedin 0800 477 4545 | R20 www.dunedincasino.co.nz www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Queenstown

PLAY STATION

Queenstown

Derek Piper takes a tour of Nokomai Station, a farm that offers visitors a wealth of activities

I

t takes me barely an hour to drive from Queenstown through some stunning scenery before I find myself at one of the country’s largest properties.

Nokomai Station is a high country sheep and cattle station that also offers accommodation and a host of outdoor activities.

Nokomai was first settled in 1857 by Donald Cameron, a Scottish settler, and is currently owned by the Hore family, just the second owners in the property’s history.

One significant feature is the Mataura

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River, a world famous trout fishing river, which winds it’s way through the southern end of the property.

Nokomai Valley Accommodation is a recent addition to the station. This gives visitors the opportunity to come and experience station life as well as take advantage of the great variety of activities. These include fishing, mountain biking, hiking and horse riding. Once those are mastered, visitors can take advantage of Nokomai Helicopters and plan a day excursion back-country fishing or visit Milford Sound or other destinations.

Its location is well described by the original name “Glenfalloch “ given to it by its first settler, meaning “hidden valley” Nokomai is one of the few original runs left intact in the area and has a wealth of history attached through farming and gold mining.

During its 150 years, it has only had two owners, the family of the original Scottish settler, D.A.Cameron and the family of F.L. Hore who farm the station today.

There are four comfortable, spacious one or two bedroom cottages. Guests have the option of self catering or meals in the accommodation’s dining room by

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SOWHAT AREYOUWAITINGFOR ?

To Wanaka

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Lake Dunstan

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Cromwell Clyde Rd

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Queenstown

Water Sport World offers everything families and friends need for a great day out on Lake Wakatipu, Queenstown.

Enjoy adrenalin fuelled jet skis tours and hire to water sports like wakeboarding, water-skiing and biscuits. For the more relaxed experience we offer boat hire, kayak hire and we can even sort out your fishing permits and equipment!

Located just 7 minutes’ drive from central Queenstown at Fisherman’s Pier on Frankton Marina, Water Sport World can tailor make your complete experience on the water.

We also have the added benefit of a fuel station, one of only two on the lake, right on our doorstep for quick and easy service. So if you’re after a day of water sport fun, come down to Fisherman’s Pier!

Water Sport World Fisherman’s Pier, Frankton Marina, Queenstown, New Zealand Phone: +64 3 442 5354 Email: hello@watersportworld.co.nz Web: www.watersportworld.co.nz

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YES! We Stop

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prior arrangement.

The nearest and most important to anglers at Nokomai is the Mataura river, world famous for its brown trout. This river flows through Nokomai for at least 20 kilometres. The closest part is only two minutes’ drive from the accommodation.

Alternatively there are several options to the main rivers when they are not suitable for fishing.

The famous Mataura Rise (Mayfly hatch) can happen at any time, when the water becomes alive with the frenzy of feeding trout.

Most rivers in the area of Northern Southland have relatively easy access to river banks and are reasonable to walk as they are not set midst steep terrain.

Some unique aspects of the rivers in this area include the clear waters, giving excellent sight fishing opportunities for brown and rainbow trout.

Fishermen staying at Nokomai have the option of fishing on their own or with the highly experienced guide.

It is strongly recommended for the angler fishing the area for the first time, to have at least a day with one of the guides to ensure some quality fishing through their local knowledge.

It is also recommended to book your guide in advance to ensure they are available especially from Mid November until mid March.

Guided fishing excursions from Nokomai can be for a full day from 8.30 - 9 am until around 5pm, or a half day.

The maximum number of clients per guide is two. Lunch is included in the full day.

The guides can provide some fishing gear, plus waders with prior notice.

The guides work separately but in conjunction with Nokomai.

Other activies include a mountain cycle trail, one of the new nationwide cycle trails passes through the district, opening in January 2014.

Walking/Hiking Nokomai Station has a great variety of tracks and trails ideal for walking and exploring. Choose from a short stroll through to a full day’s hike.

Farm Activities - Nokomai Station is a

fully operational high country sheep and cattle station. No matter what time of year that you visit there is always something happening and farm demonstrations can be arranged on request.

Nokomai also has a helicopter company that offers a range of activities. These include: Heli Fishing: When available. Nokomai Helicopters can fly you to some of the less accessible fishing spots often set in beautiful remote high country surroundings. Taking a guide essential. Fishing Season goes from October 1st to April 30th.

The fishing guides have plenty of experience of this area, great personalities, and work hard to give their clients a memorable days fishing. All are members of the New Zealand Fishing Guides Association.

Located in Northern Southland, Nokomai Helicopters is owned and operated by James Hore who is well acquainted with both the local area and further a field.

With two generations of mountain flying experience and the highest attainable civil aviation certification along with intimate local knowledge of the stunning local scenery guarantees a safe and totally memorable experience.

Nokomai Helicopters provides meticulously maintained helicopters and vehicles, highly trained friendly pilots with specialist equipment for a diverse range of commercial, agricultural and tourism services.

Its present aircraft included two Hughes 500E helicopters with seating for 4 passengers and a B2 Squirrel with seating for 6 passengers. All are available for general commercial, agricultural and tourism work.

Scenic Flights Discover some of the most stunning and beautiful scenery in New Zealand with a personalised or packaged scenic helicopter flight from Nokomai Helicopters, based at Nokomai Station. Some of its experiences are: Milford Experience Milford Sound is located within one

of the greatest wilderness areas of New Zealand; the World Heritage listed Fiordland National Park. You will get amazing aerial views, flying into the incredible Milford Sound with its sheer ice-carved cliffs rising from the ocean, cascading waterfalls and an abundance of wildlife. Combine a trip to Milford with a flight down the west coast watching seals on the rocks and remote rugged beaches.

The Backyard Fly over Lake Wakatipu with steep bush covered peaks with Queenstown as a backdrop before heading over the Eyre Mountains. The return flight takes you back through the Remarkable Mountain range with unparalleled views of rugged snowy peaks and mountain tarns.

Nokomai Station Take an aerial tour of our high country station. Highlights of Nokomai Station include the Nevis Valley, amazing rock formations and historic gold mining ruins and pipelines.

Champagne Flight Fly to a local mountain top and view the sunset while sipping on champagne or your favourite tipple.

Personalised Heli-Touring Select the destination or areas of your choice then organise your own tour with our pilot.

Heli Skiing Nokomai Helicopters will take you on the adventure of a lifetime with guides who know the best local spots. Untouched areas of the Southland Lakes region, where only a helicopter can take you to find fresh fluffy powder and crystal clear air with views that will take your breath away.

Heli Fishing Indulge yourself with exclusive fishing in the some of the regions best trout fishing in the world. Our remote high country rivers boast some of the most spectacular trout the South Island has to offer. Fishing spots in beautiful remote areas with a local guide can be arranged.

Heli Hiking Fly to one of our mountain tops with a picnic lunch then make your way home admiring the spectacular views of the region. Or they can take you on a guided tour with an experienced guide with extensive knowledge of the area.

Heli Hunting Seasonal hunting with guides on Nokomai Station is not for the faint hearted. An experienced guide will show you some amazing views and help to hunt out a trophy head if that is desired.

Nokomai Helicopters will drop you off nearby where the game is located.

Heli Biking This can be arranged by Nokomai through a commercial operator. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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ooking for locals favourite Queenstown cafes then indulge yourself at Provisions of Arrowtown, and The Boatshed café & bistro on Lake Wakatipu.

Both these cafes are set in charming historic cottages dating back to the gold mining days in Queenstown.

Provisions of Arrowtown is a café, artisan bakery and store set in a miners cottage just a block along from the main street in the picturesque town of Arrowtown about 20 minutes away from downtown Queenstown. Renowned for their “obscenely good” sticky buns, Provisions is open daily offering breakfast, lunch and late afternoon tea, drinks and platters in a delightful cottage garden.

Provisions is operated by Jane Shaw who set up the award winning local Central Otago preserves range of the same name, in Cromwell back in 2003.

In December 2012, Jane opened The Boatshed café & bistro in the former historic shipping office located on the lake’s edge at the marina at Frankton. The Boatshed is set on the Queenstown trail and is the perfect spot to stop for morning tea, lunch or dinner while enjoying a stunning lakeside view.

The menus at both cafes feature seasonal, local fare with great Allpress coffee in casual café/bistro settings.

At Arrowtown there is a daily changing blackboard menu while the Boatshed offers a wider menu with sharing dishes that suit late afternoon and early evening drinks on the deck enjoyed with a Central Otago wine or cold beer.  A range of housemade takeout gourmet picnic food is available at both cafes along with the Provisions range of chutneys and jams made from Central Otago’s renowned stonefruit.

Indulge yourself with gourmet treats without compromising your budget at two of Queenstown’s finest cafes offering spectacular settings and warm local hospitality.

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he Boatshed café & bistro Open daily from 7.30am for breakfast, lunch, drinks & dinner Stunning lakefront setting on the Queenstown cycle trail.

Fully licensed featuring Central Otago wines Turn off Frankton Rd opposite Z petrol station into Sugar Lane Tel: 441 4146 www.boatshedqueenstown.com www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Wanaka

HOW I OVERCAME MY FEAR OF HEIGHTS IN WANAKA

Lake Wanaka

Lyall Hastelow finds that one way to fix your fear of heights is to strap yourself to a beautiful stranger.

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he car’s packed and it’s just turned 5pm. Finally we are on our way. A short drive from Queenstown over the crown range we arrive at Benbrae.

This is a resort where we are staying for our action packed weekend in Wanaka.

After a friendly introduction we make our way up to our villa. Opening the front door, I am engulfed by a cloud of warmth that is like a trance rushing over me, pulling me in. As we explore our new home, the thoughts run through my mind of how I could happily live here forever. Super king sized beds, Spacious lounge with a large

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opened planned kitchen and of course a great view. This place was more than I expected. In no time I was kicked back in front of the fire place relaxing to some tunes. As morning arrives I have no time to waste. I gotta get down to the lake front where I’m getting picked up for my first activity.

It’s about an hour’s drive to the location where the canyon we are doing is situated. This was the perfect opportunity to get to know my guide a little better.

Dave is the founder of Canyoning Wanaka, Setting up the first commercial operation in New Zealand around 20

years ago. Known as the head Honcho, Dave has done it all.

What an amazing location for my first experience. Situated at the foot of Mt Aspiring National Park, surrounded by towering snow capped mountains, It’s here that the Niger stream awaits. In no time I’m suspended over a 10 meter drop by nothing except a rope. What a rush! Blood is pumping through my system so fast that the freezing water doesn’t get the slightest reaction out of me.

Dave takes us down huge waterfalls by way of abseiling, rock slides and ziplines. As a professional, Dave has a very

relaxed manner about him that can make the most hesitant individual jump in the deep end knowing they are in safe hands.

From start to finish, the whole experience was enjoyably challenging. You can’t help but feel an over whelming sense of achievement once you come out at the end.

Being in the canyon for around 5 hours, I was eager to get into a late lunch and enjoy some good conversation with my fellow companions.

Canyoning Wanaka can cater for nearly anyone, young or old, confident or not, they offer a range of different level canyons from beginner to advanced.

Dave, I will see you again soon as I loved every minute and can’t wait for more.

Finally, back to the warmth and comforts of Benbrae completely worn out.

The spa pool looked so inviting, I could not resist a quick dip which ended up being a much needed relaxing two hour soak, preparing myself for what awaited tomorrow.

For someone who has quite the irrational fear of heights, I certainly did not know what I was thinking when I agreed to throw my body from a moving aeroplane 15,000 feet (4575 metres) in the sky (hey that’s halfway up Mount Everest!)...but my goodness, it was one of the most breathtaking (literally) and outstanding things that I have ever experienced.

I’m not sure that you can do anything to prepare yourself for the thrill and shear adrenaline that overwhelms you when moving at 200km/hour soaring through the atmosphere in one of the worlds most pristine and beautiful environments.

After a full minute of adrenaline-packed free-fall, the parachute is released and for the second half of your journey back

down to solid ground, it is so peaceful and serene, you forget that only moments ago you were screaming words into your instructors ear that could only make your Granny turn in her grave....But no one ever seems to re-tell the encounter about the part after the parachute has been released.

Well imagine this: There is no noise - a sense of euphoria becomes overwhelming as you begin to process the fact that you are soaring high above New Zealand’s magnificent Southern Alps. After a few moments you process your surroundings and realise that there are no big cities, no noisy jet planes or busy traffic below, no one but you (and your wonderful tandem instructor making sure you get back to earth in one piece).

Imagine being able to see the Clutha River, the longest river in the South Island extending from Lake Wanaka to the Pacific Ocean as far as the eye can see; The highest peaks of the Southern Alps Aoraki/ Mount Cook and Tititea/Mount Aspiring; The vast mineral-rich vibrancy of Lake Wanaka and over to the Cardrona Valley, whilst directly below you are deep valleys carved by extinct glaciers.

After a gentle landing by the hanger where we last took off, I was completely speechless - the experience quite literally took my breath away. No one could have ever prepared me for such an overwhelming experience of adrenaline, awe and enchantment all rolled up into one big, fat unforgettable ’moment.’ It wasn’t scary, there was no threat of fear, just pure fun and enjoyment.

When asked whether or not I am still afraid of heights? I answer yes. When asked whether I would skydive again?

Again, Yes. With Wanaka Skydiving? I

wouldn’t go anywhere else. ...Go on, do it. Strap yourself to a beautiful stranger.

A trip to Wanaka is not complete without stopping at the iconic Wanaka Puzzling World! Less that an hour’s drive from Queenstown through the glorious Crown Ranges and Cardrona Valley, the unique world attraction is sure to offer you an afternoon filled with wonder and delight.

Prepare to be dazzled, mystified and challenged as you are faced with a series of optical conundrums that will fool even your own basic senses!

I chose first to test my patience and memory in the infamous ’Great Maze.’

I had heard about this, but didn’t quite know what to expect! With 1.5km of passage ways it felt more like an adventure than a labyrinth of winding passages. ’Nope, I definitely haven’t been here’ soon became a recurring ringing in my head. After 50 minutes of power walking and determination, I exited the Great Maze feeling proud and accomplished, and that was just the warm up! I proceeded to snake my way through the Hologram Hall, the Hall of Following Faces, the Ames Room (where I perhaps had a little too much fun pretending I was Alice from Alice In Wonderland), the Sculptillusion Gallery, the Titled House (Hello am I on the Titanic?) and finally ending my mind –boggling miniadventure at the Puzzle Centre and Café.

I highly recommend that you take an afternoon to enjoy the optical and physical phenomenon that Puzzling World have successfully created and compiled into one spectacular complex for the entire family to enjoy, young or old. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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HOSPITALITY After an active day around the Southern Lakes, you will love the cozy atmosphere of our chic, yet beautifully relaxed lodge. · · · · · ·

Uninterrupted Alpine views Gourmet food and wine Luxury accommodation and service Indoor and outdoor fireplace Underfloor heating throughout Drying room

Exclusive Offer for Jet Star Readers: $20/day off every advertised rate on our website.

Use promotional code ‘JET20’ when you make your booking.

Valid for bookings Dec 1 2013 - May 31 2014 Sole use of the lodge possible.

Call: +64 (0)3 443 4995

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The Cardrona Valley is one of New Zealand’s best kept secrets!

Located in the stunning Cardrona, close to the heart of Wanaka and at the foot of some of New Zealand’s most awe-aspiring mountains.

Studio Units, 2 and 3 Bedroom Villas; all situated in beautifully landscaped grounds including an outdoor heated Jacuzzi and swimming pool.

A great location to relax, visit wineries, horsetrekking, skiing. Close to Wanaka & Queenstown.

Benbrae Resort 2326 Cardrona Valley Road, Cardrona, New Zealand ph 03 443 7600 • mobile: 027 437 6520 email stay@benbrae.co.nz • web www.benbrae.co.nz

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Tekapo

LOOK UP, LOOK DOWN

Tekapo /Mt Cook

Lake Tekapo offers a spectacular array of scenery, both on land and in the heavens, as John Dorren discovers.

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ake Tekapo is roughly halfway between Christchurch and Queenstown in the South Island and lies at the foot of the Southern Alps mountain range.

The unusual colour of the water in the area stems from the action of glaciers in the alps, which grind rock to a fine powder as they move down the slopes. That power finds its way into the lakes where it is suspended in the water, giving off this fabulous hue.

Tekapo is famous as a base for seeing the beauty of the region, both on land and in the sky.

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It is a base for both helicopter and fixed wing aircraft, that prove to be the best way of seeing a lot of scenery in short order.

Tekapo Helicopters is a local firm that has been around since 1998. It operates a fleet of modern four and six-seater turbine helicopters.

It offers a variety of tours, including breathtaking views of the Mackenzie Basin, a flight over turquoise lakes, a view of the country’s highest mountain, Mt Cook or the longest glacier, Tasman Glacier.

In some cases, you can even land and

get out of the helicopter for a closer look.

For a different perspective, you can try out the fixed wing aircraft of Air Safaris.

It bills its “Grand Traverse” scenic tour as “the flight of a lifetime”.

This encompasses two world heritage national parks and 200km of New Zealand’s most memorable and breathtaking scenery.

Air Safaris provide a comprehensive in-flight guide translated into a number of languages, so there is no chance of missing out on all the pertinent information.

The highlights of the Grand Traverse flight include:

Beautiful turquoise glacial lakes, golden tussock lands, and the braided river systems of the Mackenzie basin Remote High Country Sheep Stations, glacial valleys, and landforms The Aoraki Mount Cook National Park – a magical world of permanent ice and snow New Zealand’s highest mountains and largest glaciers – including Aoraki Mount Cook and the Tasman Glacier The Westland Tai Poutini National Park encompassing the magnificent Franz Josef and Fox Glaciers spilling down to the rainforests of the west coast Once you have had your fill of looking down, it could be time to start looking up and Lake Tekapo offers the opportunity to do just that through Earth & Sky, a local business that offers guided daytime tours around Mount John Observatory as well as nighttime stargazing tours at Mount John and Cowan’s Observatory.

Located in the Mackenzie District, the region is renowned for the clarity of its sky and freedom from light pollution, which is why the area was declared a gold-level International Dark Sky Reserve in mid2012.

People in their tens of thousands flock here annually to see the southern stars and transient phenomena such as aurorae, meteor showers and the zodiacal light in all their pristine glory.

Drive or hike up to the observatory on the summit of Mount John and treat

yourself to a gorgeous vista and a relaxing escape at the Astro Café some 300 metres above Lake Tekapo.

Day tours will take 30 to 40 minutes, encompassing the history of the observatory, a description of the exciting research done here and a chance to see the professional telescopes.

Be guided through this fully functioning observatory where astronomers from the University of Canterbury (New Zealand) and Nagoya University (Japan) are conducting leading-edge research using a 1.8-metre telescope.

When the sun goes down, the stars come out and that’s the perfect time to take Earth & Sky’s famous stargazing tour.

As conditions permit, astronomy guides help you navigate the southern night sky outdoors using green laser pointers.

You can peer through powerful telescopes (16-inch, 11-inch and 9.25-inch apertures) and binoculars to see amazing sights, both near and far.

Also, if you wish to capture the beauty of the night sky and have a suitably equipped camera, there will even be an experienced astroimager to hand to help!

When stars are hidden from sight by cloud, you can still go on a journey to discover the nocturnal world of an astronomer.

A highlight is the chance to see behind the scenes of Mt. John Observatory, usually out-of-bounds to the general public.

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established Tekapo Flying from LakeLakeTekapo since1970 1970

Experience a spectacular AIR SAFARIS 50 minute “Grand Traverse” flightseeing tour of Aoraki Mount Cook and glaciers.

Covers over 200 km and highlights include: Aoraki Mount Cook and Mount Tasman Tasman & Murchison glaciers - Franz Josef & Fox glaciers plus much more!!

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Ranked 1 Mount Cook/Mackenzie Flightseeing Experience* *Rankers.co.nz - Nov 2013

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OPERATING FOR OVER 40 YEARS

Flights departing hourly from: Lake Tekapo - Mount Cook/Mackenzie Region State Highway 8, Lake Tekapo PH 0800 806 880

Franz Josef - Westland Region

State Highway 6, Franz Josef PH 0800 723 274 122

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sales@airsafaris.co.nz

The most breathtaking way to make the most of your visit to the Southern Alps is with Tekapo Helicopters »

Contact us for the flight of your life » Main Road, Tekapo, South Island, New Zealand Ph 0800 35 98 35 or 03 680 6229 www.tekapohelicopters.co.nz E-mail tekapohelicopters@xtra.co.nz PO Box 145, Lake Tekapo Helicopter Flights NZ, Mt Cook Flights from Tek... http://www.tekapohelicopters.co.nz

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Southland

SOUTHLAND EMERGES FROM THE SHADOWS

Southland

Western Southland has lived in the shadow of its next-door neighbour – the world famous Fiordland National Park – but increasingly it’s coming into its own as a fascinating destination.

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s people look for new experiences – under the ubiquitous “off the beaten track” tag – the region’s quirky nooks and crannies have started to pique visitors’ interest.

State Highway 99 – part of the Southern Scenic Route - winds its way along the wild southern coastline from Riverton to Tuatapere, then inland - eventually arriving at Manapouri and Te Anau.

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Nook, Monkey Island and the Chinese goldmining settlement remnants at Round Hill.

Most peoples’ Western Southland experiences begin in Riverton. Nestled on the south coast, the township boasts spectacular natural beauty and plenty to surprise and delight visitors.

The picturesque location, spanning Jacob’s River Estuary and framed by stunning coastline, is populated by an eclectic mix of about 1900 residents, including a fair smattering of fishermen and artists.

What was once Southland’s secret

holiday spot is fast becoming a Mecca for visitors from around New Zealand and overseas looking for a quiet and peaceful coastal hideaway.

The beaches and estuary are popular with swimmers, kayakers, surfers and families – and even the odd dolphin.

The township is steeped in history – clocking up its 175th celebrations in 2011. The quaint, old fashioned shop fronts of its main street are an attraction in themselves – and many are home to quirky businesses, cafes and art galleries.

A crafts trail of artists’ studios includes weavers, potters, painters, and Maori

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weaving and carving.

Beyond Riverton lies Colac Bay, where ‘The Porridge’ ranks among New Zealand’s top surfing spots. Look carefully from Te Wae Wae Bay and you may just catch a glimpse of New Zealand’s largest pod of Hector’s dolphins – or even a Southern Right Whale.

Chinese miners arrived at nearby Round Hill in the early 1880s and founded Canton village, which boasted a hotel and opium and gambling dens.

The self-guided walk through the area known as Long Hilly (Long Hee Lee) is tranquil and informative with stone embankments, carved out tailraces, old earth dams and rusting water pipes among the fascinating remains.

As you wander alongside the tailraces the mind boggles at the amount of labour which must have been spent on the sturdily constructed waterways.

Further on, old water reservoirs linger on in the undergrowth before the track is enveloped by the native canopy above McCallum’s tram cutting.

Te Hikoi museum in Riverton has some wonderful artefacts and photos of the Chinese settlement on display. Cosy Nook conjures up images of fishing villages in far flung Celtic isles. Rustic cribs (the southern term for a bach or holiday home) cling to the rocky coastline around this tiny inshore haven.

Film-maker Robert Sarkies recently described Cosy Nook as like walking on to a film-set from another time.

Further along State Highway 99, you will discover Monkey Island and a mini lagoon off the southern end of a secluded and delightful beach. The island is accessible during low tide and was a traditional Maori lookout for whales.

The historic township of Tuatapere has a sawmilling past but is also known as the “sausage capital of New Zealand”.

In recent years however, it’s been the Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track which has pulled the visitors in.

Opened in 2001, the track’s reputation as a world-class eco-tourism destination was cemented when it was named a finalist in the British Guild of Travel Writers’ annual tourism awards.

A wonderful sense of solitude on beautiful south coast beaches gives way to spectacular views over Southland and Fiordland on top of the Hump Ridge. The third day of the track descends back to the coast taking in giant wooden viaducts and historic tramways.

Inland from Tuatapere is New Zealand’s deepest lake – Hauroko, which plunges to an astonishing 463m.

As we fly across its deep waters in a jet boat, mystical scenes are conjured up by the imposing mountainous surrounds – which are part of Fiordland. Our guide,

Johan Groters, from Wairaurahiri Jet, cuts the engine and we sit still on the water as he points out a Maori burial cave on Mary Island, with remains dating from about 350 years ago.

Local myth has it that the remains are of a Maori princess.

Beyond the myths lies the reality of the wild Wairaurahiri River – which drops 183m over 34km to sea level. Weaving our way down the wide, rapid water it’s both breath-taking and inspiring. There’s no gimmicks here – just nature in its rawest form.

We pull up on a river bank and Johan takes us on a short walk through the ancient native bush – his knowledge of the flora and fauna is magical and gives us an insight into the rich ecology of this untouched world.

Johan and his partner Joyce Kolk operate a predator control programme alongside the jet- boating operation. In the past seven years they have knocked off about 400 stoats and 300 rats along the Wairaurahiri River – and offer their customers the opportunity to sponsor a trap for a small fee.

Back out on 99 the road winds through forestry blocks and charmingly isolated back country plains to Lakes Manapouri and Te Anau, where travellers can re-join the tourism highway after a deliciously offbeat Western Southland sojourn. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Fiordland

SOUNDS FABULOUS

Fiordland

Deep in the heart of Fiordland National Park, Justine Tyerman explores a lake, an underground power station, an alpine pass and a sound - or fiord.

THE LAKE The weather looked as dubious as the name suggests as we headed for Doubtful Sound early one autumn morning. We sped smoothly across a calm Lake Manapouri in the high-speed catamaran, Titiroa, in misty grey drizzle. Massive, glaciated peaks and ranges peered above the clouds, which filled the steep-sided valleys and cirques, masquerading as glaciers of the last great Fiordland ice age 20,000 years ago.

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- just out of reach due to time, distance or budget. On this occasion however, it was planned and booked well ahead as a post-Milford Track treat. The tramp was magnificent, but after four days and 53 kilometres of lugging packs, we were looking forward to being taken care of on a guided trip, which required minimal use of our legs and involved no carrying of weights.

Halfway across the lake, a hint of pale gold on the horizon heralded sunrise, casting a shimmering path across the water and illuminating the dark clouds,

hopeful signs that the weather might do what Fiordland is so famous for - the unexpected.

One of the world’s wettest regions, Fiordland’s annual rainfall varies from a mere one metre at Manapouri township, to three metres at West Arm, eight metres at Deep Cove, and in 2009 a staggering 16 metres at First Arm on Doubtful Sound.

We were prepared for the worst, wearing our full wet-weather tramping kit (I vaguely thought snorkels might have been a prudent addition to the day pack), but the mist obligingly continued to lift revealing

wonderful wooded islands and a lake shore fringed by dense beech forest.

THE POWER STATION Arriving at West Arm on the far side of the lake, we were ushered into a visitor centre where I could have happily spent the morning, reading about the fascinating history of the area and the Maori legends of creation with their mellifluous place names, which always sound so much more poetic than the English versions.

Manawapore or Manawapouri, meaning Lake of the Sorrowing Heart, was formed by the tears of two sisters, Motorau and Korowae, daughters of an old Maori chief in the region.

I also refreshed my knowledge of the valiant Save Manapouri campaign (1959-72), credited as the birth of New Zealand’s environmental consciousness.

The original Manapouri Hydro Power Station scheme involved raising the lake level by 30 metres, which would have flooded the shoreline beech forests and drowned most of the lake’s 34 islands.

There were huge, widespread protests and in 1972, the government of the day confirmed that, while the power station would go ahead, the lake level would not be raised. An entity called the Guardians of Lake Manapouri, Monowai and Te Anau was created to oversee management of the water levels.

The power scheme at West Arm was extraordinarily audacious. Built inside a mountain 200 metres below lake level in a cavern excavated from solid granite, the station is New Zealand’s biggest. The project took 1800 workers eight years to complete in extremely harsh conditions and 16 men were killed underground or during construction of the road over Wilmot Pass linking West Arm on Lake Manapouri to Deep Cove on Doubtful Sound.

Completed in 1971, the power station was largely built to supply electricity to the Tiwai Point aluminium smelter near Bluff as well as feed into the South Island transmission network.

The word earthquake kept fighting to be heard inside my head as we boarded a bus and headed two kilometres down the dark spiral tunnel to the machine hall deep inside the mountain. I knew the trip involved going to the underground power station but I had somehow pretended it was not really underground.

So I made a deal with my fear. I locked it in a box and said I would let it out at the end of the trip if it didn’t spoil the experience for me. I also reasoned that if 45,000 people were brave enough to visit the power station each year, the majority being overseas tourists, I must not be a wimp.

The bus was driven by our guide,

the delightful Chris Hughes, one of those incredibly capable, multi-talented, Kiwi blokes you instinctively trust with your life. Chris, a born story-teller, had done everything from guiding and DoC (Department of Conservation) rangering on the Milford Track to bridge building.

Had it not been for his calm, jovial manner I might not have been able to focus on the experience of learning about and actually seeing for myself one of New Zealand’s greatest - and most controversial - engineering achievements.

The station utilises the 230-metre drop between the western arm of Lake Manapouri and the Deep Cove end of Doubtful Sound 10 kilometres away to generate electricity.

My fear stayed so well locked up, I was the last to leave the massive 111-metre long, 18-metre wide, 39-metre high cavern with its seven shiny, blue “exciters” which sit on top of the power generators. It was an awesome experience and felt rather like being on the set of a James Bond movie, as Chris suggested.

Turning the bus around in the tight confines of the tunnel was a masterful feat which was loudly applauded, especially by a German lady in the front seat who was quietly freaking out and wanted to be out of there in a big hurry.

Once back above ground I asked Chris

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about earthquakes and he said despite the close proximity to the alpine fault where the Indo-Australian plate dives beneath the Pacific plate - a fact I should have also locked in the box - a powerful 7.8 Fiordland quake in 2009 caused no damage to the power station and was barely felt by the men working underground.

THE PASS The next part of our adventure was the bus trip over Wilmot Pass, another incredible feat of construction. Surveyor Ernest Wilmot gave his name to the pass although the Murrell family from Manapouri, at whose lovely historic Grand View House we stayed the previous night, claims their ancestor Robert Murrell discovered the route in 1888 and helped build the track to Deep Cove in 1901.

The 22-kilometre road between Doubtful Sound and Lake Manapouri, one of New Zealand’s most remote roads, was built in the mid-1960s to provide heavy equipment access for the construction of the power station. Floods, snow, mud and landslides lengthened the project from 12 months to two years. Chris said it was the most expensive gravel road ever to be built in New Zealand, at something like $2 a centimetre.

“Maybe it took so long because half the time the workers would have been swatting sandflies,” he said.

He reminded us that sandflies were technically a protected species in a national park so we were obliged to watch the fiends as they sucked our blood and refrain from killing them - technically.

Fiordland’s legendary sandflies - and rain - got the better of the Jurassic Park film crew when they went to film there a decade ago. They evidently high-tailed it to Hawaii to complete the movie.

To compensate for the fact there was zero visibility over the pass, Chris kept

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us entertained with amusing anecdotes, largely based on fact.

During construction of the power scheme, 300 married men boated to work each day from Manapouri, 900 single men lived at West Arm in a village with a post office, gym, pub and very busy police station, and 500 men lived on the Wanganella, a converted former cruise ship, anchored in 45 metres of water at Deep Cove.

“After the power station was finished, divers found a 40-metre high mountain of beer bottles under the ship so the lads nearly drank themselves aground!”

An English mate of Chris’s pestered him for months to take him tramping in Dusky Sound, even more remote than Doubtful Sound. Chris finally relented so off into the bush they went.

“Within two hours I was carrying half Dave’s pack and after four hours, I had his whole pack and mine. After four days of three-wire bridges and waist-deep mud holes, he succumbed to droopy- bottomlip syndrome and total sense-of-humour failure and wanted out.” Going down the steep pass, Chris pointed out the huge variety of trees including rimu, shrubs and ferns in the temperate podocarp rainforest.

The fuchsia was a personal favourite of his - he had seen many a drunken tui falling out of a tree after drinking the fermenting nectar of the fuchsia flower. He also credits the fuchsia with helping him give up smoking. When he was a ranger on the Milford Track, he had to carry a dead body down from Mackinnon Pass and was desperate for a cigarette that night. He had no tobacco so tried smoking dried fuchsia bark and never smoked again.

He also drew our attention to the AA signs on the steepest part of road which a witty grader driver had amended to read Danger Mice and Trucks Use Low Gear, Buses Free Wheel.

At the foot of the pass at Deep Cove, Chris showed us the bridge he had helped build above where the two 10-kilometre tailrace tunnels discharge their water into Doubtful Sound “at rate of about 500 small elephants a second”.

On a more sombre note, he explained DoC’s heroic campaign to trap vicious predators like stoats and bring birdsong back to our forests.

“Stoats are natural killers and the females have incredible survival mechanisms like reabsorbing embryos to limit their litters if there is not enough food around. Most Kiwis don’t know what they’re missing - waking up to birdsong is magic.”

THE SOUND The cloud was dispersing and the sun was breaking through as we cruised down Doubtful Sound skippered by Russell Dore. Another Fiordlander with encyclopedic knowledge of the region; Russell’s forebears operated the original steamer, Titiroa, on Lake Manapouri in the 1880s.

Deep Cove at the head of the sound is 40 kilometres from the open sea, making Doubtful the second largest of Fiordland National Park’s 14 fiords after Dusky Sound. About then, I experienced a repeat of my fiord/sound confusion. Although Fiordland’s fiords are officially mapped as sounds, strictly speaking, they should be called fiords. A fiord is a glaciated valley typically narrow and steep-sided - that has been flooded by the sea after the glacier’s retreat.

A sound, on the other hand, is a river valley flooded by the sea following a rise in sea levels or depression of the land, or a combination of both. All three arms of Lake Te Anau are called fiords - North Fiord, Middle Fiord and South Fiord - which they are not. Very puzzling.

Adventure Kayak & Cruise 33 Waiau Street P.O. Box 24 Manapouri Fiordland, New Zealand Phone: 64-3-249-6626 Fax: 64-3-249-6923 information@fiordlandadventure.co.nz

www.FiordlandAdventure.co.nz As the clouds cleared, I felt somewhat overwhelmed by the immensity of the landscape unfolding around us and the colossal tectonic and glacial forces that had shaped the fiords and sculpted the towering mountains.

Myriads of waterfalls, replenished by the rain, plummeted straight to the sea from staggeringly-high overhangs or danced down the mountainsides in multiple tiers, disappearing deep into the forest and emerging with greater force further down, finally gushing with great gusto into the sound - or fiord.

Due to the sheerness of the mountain walls, Russell was able to nudge the prow of the Tasman Explorer right under the waterfalls in Crooked Arm giving those at the sharp end a Fiordland shower, and allowing Chris to collect a saucepan full to make waterfall tea. The water held special powers, he said, claiming he was actually 75 years old. I drank some, but obviously not enough.

Rock and tree avalanches scarred the steep mountains, some fresh and raw, some beginning to regenerate, a process taking 150 to 200 years.

Depending on rainfall, a two to 10-metre layer of fresh water floats on top of the sea water, stained brown from the tannins in the forest. The dark tannins make it difficult

for light to penetrate so many deep-sea species such as black coral grow in the comparatively shallow depths of the sound.

The endangered Fiordland crested penguins, one of the world’s rarest penguins, and the resident pod of 60 bottlenose dolphins, were playing hard-toget the day we called by but we cruised very close to a colony of New Zealand fur seals at Nee Islets near the entrance to Doubtful Sound. It was a thrilling sight especially for the overseas tourists on the boat.

As usual, we were the only Kiwis present, just as we had been on the Milford Track and the Kepler and Routeburn before that.

With the weather improving, Russell took us right out to the Tasman Sea where the vastness of the ocean, the power of the surging swell even on this most docile of days, and the knowledge of what fury these elemental forces were capable of unleashing, engendered in me a huge sense of respect and awe.

Captain James Cook was responsible for naming the sound. He sailed by in the Endeavour in 1770, calling it Doubtfull Harbour, after being uncertain whether, if he entered the inlet, there would be sufficient wind to manoeuvre his ship out

of its narrow reaches.

In 1793, Italian explorer Captain Alessandro Malaspina sent cartographer Don Felipe Bauza into the sound in a long boat. Bauza produced a remarkable map resulting in many Spanish place names, including a large island named Bauza.

Doubtful Sound is home to one of two marine reserves in Fiordland, Te Awaatu, the narrow passage between Bauza and Secretary Islands, a popular place for divers.

On our return journey, the cameras were out in force as the sound, the pass and the lake sparkled under a clear blue sky. In the space of 10 hours, we had experienced a great adventure and accomplished, in comfort, what used to take early travellers a week or more in sometimes appalling conditions.

Fiordland smiled on us that day, and despite her moody, mysterious and sometimes inhospitable nature, I just can’t seem to get enough of the place. So entranced by the wild, remote landscape, I went to see the stunning movie, Ata Whenua Fiordland on Film, for a second time in Te Anau.

And once again, we were the only Kiwis in the theatre. We are indeed a rare species in this most beautiful neck of the New Zealand woods. www.travelnewzealandmagazine.com

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Explore Explore

Doubtful Sound

Overnight Overnight Cruise Cruise

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Stewart Island

HISTORY AND NAMING OF STEWART ISLAND

Stewart Island

Anchor yourself in Stewart Island.

T

he more commonly known and used name for Stewart Island is Rakiura.. Translated as “The great and deep blushing of Te Rakitamau” an early Maori Chief, seen today as the glowing sunrises, sunsets and the Aurora Australis or Southern Lights.

Te Rakitamau left his home to ask a high ranking Kati Mamoe family for the hand in marriage of the elder of his two daughters.

To his embarrassment he blushed terribly when he was turned down.

Te Raki Tamau then asked for the hand of the second daughter, but she

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too was already betrothed. It is said that the red skies of Stewart Island reflect the blushing embarrassment of Te Rakitamau.

From this story came Te raki o te uraka o Te Rakitamau, then, Te raki ura o Te Rakitamau. It has been shortened to Rakiura. In memory of the heat of his face the highest peak was named Hananui (the great blush).

In 1809 the ‘Pegasus’, sailing from Port Jackson, Australia, on a sealing expedition had aboard as first officer, William Stewart. While the boat was in the large south eastern harbour (which now

bears its name ‘Pegasus’), William Stewart began charting the southern coasts, and his work is acknowledged by the Island’s present name.

Its Heritage From the 13th century the island’s rich resources of native flora and birds, seafood and that very special delicacy, the titi (Sooty Shearwater/Muttonbird) provided a bountiful harvest for Maori.

Early in the 19th century explorers, sealers, missionaries, miners and settlers from all corners of the world made their mark on the island. Marriage with local

Maori women created strong family and cultural links to Rakiura.

Saw millers, boat builders and fishermen followed. The island’s population grew, stabilized and settled, mainly around the edges of Paterson Inlet and the heads of Halfmoon and Horseshoe Bays, and in short-lived ventures at Port William, Port Pegasus, and Maori Beach.

In the 1920’s new arrivals came from Norway as part of the Rosshavet whaling enterprise. Those who chose to stay permanently added another thread to the interesting tapestry of nationalities living on Stewart Island.

Today, little remains of those wider, scattered settlements and the enterprises which fostered their establishments. Fishing, aquaculture, tourism and conservation are the main pursuits, which now support the islands population of 390 people. This affirms the natural attributes of the island qualities, which first attracted Maori and Europeans to its shores.

Travelling to Stewart Island Transport options to Stewart Island are either by ferry or flight.

Ferry and helicopter services depart from Bluff and fixed-wing aircraft depart from Invercargill Airport.

The ferry crossing takes approximately one hour; flights take approximately 15-20 minutes.

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