Go Travel New Zealand Spring 2015

Spring Edition 2015 NZ 9.90 EUR 7.50 USA 12.50 AUS 9.90 INR 450 www.gotravelnewzealand.com

INSIDE THIS ISSUE...

The best of NZ golf ´ Alps 2 Ocean Cruise New Zealand ´ Slice of Heaven

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RE NE LE W A SE

TR O C PHY A LL LA TO N VI D S EW IT ES

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Contact our Reservations team or go online to check availability:

NZ: 0800 800 689

International: +64 3 441 7000

Australia: 1 800 830 352

reservations@millbrook.co.nz

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Go Travel New Zealand • Autumn 2015

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EDITOR’S NOTE Kia Ora It recently came to my attention that golf is the most popular participation sport played by men in New Zealand, and second most popular with women (closely behind netball). Put simply - we love it. Home to a stunning array of courses set in incredible locations (the highest number per capita in the world), we celebrate golf this Spring edition and welcome on board Kiwi golf professional Greg Turner as our golf writer. Join Greg, as he guides us through a virtual golf tour of New Zealand.

NORTHLAND

Approximately 14,000km of coastline makes a charter cruise another fine way to acquaint yourself with this breathtaking country. Boat access affords a different perspective, and entry to stunning and remote locations. Patti Brown explores some of the many ways to enjoy our coastal splendour in Cruise NZ.

Auckland BAY OF PLENTY

Region by region, we journey through New Zealand.

Whether you're seeking thrill or tranquillity, or somewhere in between, it's all here.

WAIKATO

We'd love to interact with you - find us on Facebook or visit our website, it's a fantastic resource to plan your travels to Aotearoa. We hope to see you soon!

EASTLAND

TARANAKI HAWKE’S BAY

Kia pai te haere

TASMAN

Sarah Bell sarahb@waterfordpress.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com

MANAWATU

Wellington MARLBOROUGH WESTCOAST

Christchurch Queenstown

CANTERBURY

Dunedin

FIORDLAND

OTAGO

AN YTI ME !

AN YW HER E! www.gotraveln ewzealand.c o.nz

COVER IMAGE: Over The Top Golf, Queenstown Terms and Conditions: www.waterfordpress.co.nz/contact_us/terms

GTNZ3 SPRING 2015

Operations Manager Scott Homer scott@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 3 983 5519

Publisher James Lynch

Administration Helen Bourne, Jill Holland accounts@waterfordpress.co.nz

PRODUCTION Editor Sarah Bell sarahb@waterfordpress.co.nz Sub Editor Patti Brown patti@waterfordpress.co.nz Designer Michael Parker michael@waterfordpress.co.nz

South Island Marketing Chris McPhee chris.mcphee@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 398 35507 North Island Marketing Alasdair Thomson alasdair@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 3 983 5530

New Zealand Head Office 112 Wrights Road Addington, Christchurch +64 (0) 3 983 5500 Queenstown Office 70 Glenda Drive, Queenstown PO Box 2581, Wakatipu International Distribution Jetstar In-Flight Digital ISSN 2357-2183 Print ISSN 2357-2191 Online

CONTENTS FEATURE STORIES GOLF 10

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REGIONS NORTH ISLAND

The best of NZ golf

by Greg Turner

CRUISE NZ 26 Hidden Treasures Cruise NZ’s shorelines

SLICE OF HEAVEN 36

26

Luxury Charters Embark on a voyage of a lifetime

NORTHLAND 42 BAY OF ISLANDS 48 AUCKLAND 54 COROMANDEL 58 WAIKATO 62 BAY OF PLENTY 66 TAUPO 72 ROTORUA 76 EASTLAND 80 TARANAKI 84

SOUTH ISLAND

HAWKES BAY 88

MARLBOROUGH

92

KAIKOURA

98

CANTERBURY 104 AKAROA 108

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WESTCOAST

112

MACKENZIE & WAITAKI

116

DUNEDIN

124

WANAKA 130

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QUEENSTOWN

136

FIORDLAND

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TravelNZ NZ路 路Spring Spring2015 2015 10 Go Travel

An oasis of world-class golf courses, glacial mountains, unique wildlife and diverse beauty - you could be forgiven for thinking New Zealand was formed with golf in mind. Which makes it a haven for those that love both travel and golf.

Kiwi golf professional, Greg Turner, shares his thoughts and experiences with readers, along with some of his favourite courses.

IMAGE: Wairakei International Golf Course & Sanctuary

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Greg Turner and New Zealand Prime Minister, Rt Hon John Key, at the opening of the new MiLlbrook Coronet 9 golf course in Queenstown.

TOURS PACKAGES TEE TIME BOOKINGS BESPOKE PACKAGES AND TOURS The Queenstown Golf Travel team can provide you with a personalised local service for golfers and golfing groups that will exceed your expectations.

www.QueenstownGolfTravel.com Contact us for other NZ Golf Destinations.

My appreciation of New Zealand golf on offer was not immediate.

Like most kids, I took for granted my surroundings, both from a physical and social sense. That golf was a relatively inexpensive and accessible activity was just normal; and that the many courses that were available to play occupied such stunning surroundings was likewise just “the way it was”.

KR

oll the clock forward to today and that realisation is entirely different.

Having spent much of the last 30 years of my professional life travelling the world playing golf, I am far more appreciative of our own golf landscape. We are blessed with a surplus of golf, spread far and wide and occupying the full range of locations and, just as importantly, open to the public at a very reasonable cost.

The majority of NZ courses are home to local golf clubs and are very welcoming to visitors.

For a generally modest green fee these courses are accessible to all and it is very seldom tee times aren’t available. Understated and unpretentious are the two words that perhaps best communicate golf in NZ. Golf alongside the seashore has become increasingly appreciated across the golfing world. Where the “linksland” upon which golf was founded was once considered ideal for golf because it wasn’t fertile, those marginal strips are now, quite rightly, regarded as precious. In NZ we are fortunate enough to have one of the longest coastlines in the world and therefore, while still precious, golf has been permitted to co-exist in these delicate ecosystems. As a consequence NZ

has more true links golf than anywhere (outside of Great Britain & Ireland of course) almost all of which are publicly accessible and generally inexpensive.

Here there are a group of courses that range from the friendly, member facilities through to the most exclusive resorts and championship layouts.

But variety of topography is perhaps the best explanation of golf in NZ. You needn’t move more than a few hundred metres from the coast in most of the country and you are into the type of countryside which has fostered New Zealand's reputation for primary produce. Parkland golf of one form or another is the bread and butter of the golf experience. Lush grasses and a wide variety of flora characterise most of the golf played near but not on the coast. Whether you are in one of our cities or just passing through small towns and villages, parkland golf exists seemingly everywhere.

The topography of the north has been shaped by very different forces, with volcanoes (both active and extinct) having produced some very distinctive landforms. Indeed in the central north island there are courses where steam rises from below and, in Rotorua, you will even come across boiling mud pools as a very unusual hazard! All and all golf in NZ has something to offer everyone. There has been significant investment in some of our most stunning locations to produce golf of a truly international standard accompanied by the type of facilities and service you would expect in the most exclusive of locations. But far and away the majority of courses are member-run, unprepossessing and brilliant value for money. Seldom will you find more than a few vehicles in the car park nor will you have to wait too long for the tee to clear. You’ll also be more than welcome to share a beer with the locals afterwards and relive golf as it may have been decades ago.

But also we have our inland, alpine golf experiences. In the south island the land has generally been sculptured by ice and water and as a consequence some of our most spectacular courses are surrounded by snowcapped peaks and crystal clear alpine lakes.

New Zealand’s adventure capital (Queenstown) can reasonably also claim the title of our “golf capital” having hosted many of our international events over the past decade.

Pegasus Golf & Sports Club, Canterbury

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Beautiful parklands-style par 72-18 hole championship golf course only a short drive north of Christchurch Renowned as one of the best golf courses in New Zealand. The par 72 Pegasus golf course provides four sets of tees at each hole to offer challenge, enjoyment and a memorable playing experience for all levels of golfers. The course plays approximately 6300m from the championship tees to 5000m from the forward tees.

The course presents bunkers, lakes, and areas of wetland at varying distances from the tee.

Alternate lines of play and greens of varying size and undulation provide opportunities to consider strategy as well as test skill and accuracy - with receptive contouring fairways and greens rewarding successfully placed shots. The course has been designed to create a fantastic experience for every level of golfer.

Play 9 holes or 18 holes. Electric carts are optional. All of our facilities are open to visitors and members.

Everyone is welcome.

A highlight of the facilities available at Pegasus Golf & Sports Club is the state-of-the-art driving range featuring eight covered and eight uncovered bays, the convenience of automated tee-up systems, and a putting and chipping green to help you get the best results.

Additional facilities include, three practice greens, chipping area, retail and pro shop, tennis courts and a well-equipped gym.

The Bunker Cafe & Bar at Pegasus Golf & Sports Club is the perfect place to relax for an aftermatch drink, catch up with friends or simply enjoy the casual dining atmosphere with contemporary New Zealand cuisine.

Tel: +64 3 920 3300 | Fax: +64 3 920 3302 Pegasus Golf & Sports Club | 2 Mapleham Drive, Pegasus | PO Box 78001, Pegasus 7648 Email: golf@pegasus-golfclub.co.nz | Web: www.pegasus-golfclub.co.nz

GREG SAYS: CANTERBURY

Over the Top Queenstown

Pegasus Golf & Sports Club A new resort style layout within a newly developed outer Christchurch suburb. While sand and water abound, undulation is subdued and plenty of space exists for even the most modest player to survive. Modern construction techniques deliver generally excellent turf conditions.

Terrace Downs Golf Resort Located on the terraces above and at the exit of the Rakaia Gorge, Terrace Downs is most memorable for stunning backdrops. When the nor’wester whips down the gorge the course is indeed a stern challenge and recent investment in conditioning is paying dividends.

Absolutely the right description for this helicopter companies “calendar” hole located near the apex of Queenstown’s famous Cecil Peak. Only accessible by helicopter this is a bucket list encounter – the photographs alone will make you the envy of your golfing mates Millbrook Golf Resort Queenstown Multi-international award winning resort, Millbrook, has 27 holes that meander across rolling alpine meadowland and feature stunning mountain views, crystal clear spring streams and rock formations. The associated hotel and residential development is handled tastefully and has little impact on the quality of golf. The original Sir Bob Charles course has been renovated and a new Turner Macpherson 9 added. The result is a world class golfing experience that has recently co-hosted the NZ Open.

Clearwater Golf Club Home of a number of international events, Clearwater is a combination resort and residential facility of the outskirts of Christchurch and only ten minutes from the airport. As the name suggests, spring creeks and crystal clear lakes abound providing plenty of challenge for golfers of even elite standard.

Lydia Ko at Clearwater Golf Club

“One of the best courses I play all year” Lydia Ko Step into the Clearwater recreational oasis just 15 minutes drive from Christchurch International Airport and prepare to walk in the footsteps of champions. Our manicured golf course, crystal clear spring fed lakes and rivers, combined with our legendary local hospitality and service will turn your golf day into a golf dream . All the facilities you’d expect in an international resort at one daily rate.

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www.clearwatergolf.co.nz | play@clearwatergolf.co.nz | phone + 64 3 3602146 Clearwater Golf Club, 40a Clearwater Avenue, Christchurch, New Zealand.

GREG SAYS: HAWKE’S BAY Cape Kidnappers Golf Course Generally regarded as NZ’s highest ranking course. Set on high cliffs above Hawke’s Bay, the course was designed by the internationally acclaimed Tom Doak and features the full range of golf challenges. A wide variety of teeing options ensures you can select the appropriate level of challenge for your ability.

Hawke’s Bay Golf Club The Hawke’s Bay Golf Club (formerly Flaxmere) was designed by Commander John Harris and opened in 1969.

The course is built on free-draining pumice subgrade and provides for easy walking on gentle terrain. Views towards nearby Te Mata Peak to the east, and the Northern Ruahines to the west, add to the casual ambience, as does its abundance of wildlife.

Hawke’s Bay Golf Club, designed by Commander John Harris

A TRANQUIL SURPRISE JUST 10 MINUTES DRIVE SOUTHWEST OF HASTINGS

Designed by Commander John Harris in 1969, this wildlife-rich course set on 142 acres, boasts magnificent views and wide, tree-lined fairways, New players welcome.

www.hawkesbaygolfclub.co.nz - 06 879 8890 - 06 879 8892

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Taupo Golf Club, 5th & 7th fairways

32 Centennial Drive, Taupo Phone: 07 378 6933 www.taupogolf.co.nz

Two great 18 hole courses to test players of all abilities Central location with breathtaking views, open 365 days per year Two practice putting greens & driving ranges.

Pro-Shop & Cafe open 7 days

GREG SAYS: TAUPO Taupo Golf Club A 36 hole complex just minutes from the shores of NZ’s biggest lake, situated amongst thermal activity and under the eye of Mt Tauhara. The Centennial course has hosted a number of national events and presents good variety and a stern challenge while the Tauhara course is more suited to those of modest ability.

Wairakei International Golf Course Set amongst a fully fenced nature reserve close to the tourism centre of Taupo. First class facilities set in abundant native and exotic forest, the course offers internationally rated golf in serene surroundings, with the predator proof fencing delivering a wildlife as well as golf related experience. Fallow deer, birdlife including pheasants, guinea fowl, peking ducks and kiwi, are all free to roam around the course.

Fallow deer, Wairakei International Golf Course

18 HOLE CHAMPIONSHIP GOLF COURSE

Fully stocked golf shop 2 Professional coaches Full fleet of golf carts Hire clubs, shoes & trundlers Fully licensed Clubhouse & Sprig Bar Golf school Corporate golf days

info@wairakeigolf.co.nz • www.wairakeigolf.co.nz • Open 364 days

+64 7 374 8152

GREG SAYS: Welcome to Rotorua Golf Club (Inc) "Arikikapakapa" Enjoy playing a unique thermal golf course in the heart of New Zealand's premier visitor destination.

- All-weather, inland links-style course with easy walking and excellent layout.

- Close to major hotels & motels - Opposite Whakarewarewa Thermal Reserve & NZ Maori Arts & Crafts Institute - Fully licensed bar & restaurant Visitors welcome.

Fenton Street, Rotorua.

Tel +64 7 348 4051

www.rotoruagolfclub.co.nz

ROTORUA Arikikapakapa Golf Club The Arikikapakapa course in Rotorua is easily underestimated for, from the nearby road, it appears like a normal parkland course in suburban Rotorua. But venture onto the course and you soon discover it is far from normal as it sits on a geothermal field giving rise to boiling mud pools and steaming lakes.

This full 18 hole, par 70 course provides variety and challenge with many holes played over and around both dormant and active thermal areas.

Thermal steam rises at Rotorua Arikikapakapa Golf Club

The Dunes, Matarangi

COROMANDEL The Dunes Golf Resort Set in one of the most delightful coastal locations on the Coromandel Peninsula. The 18 hole course has two distinct personalities, from the open lake holes to the charm of those that amble amongst the statuesque pines, flanked by the harbour and the ocean. Originally designed by New Zealand golfing legend Sir Bob Charles, The Dunes has been a must-play course for serious golfers for nearly three decades.

GREG SAYS: AUCKLAND Titirangi Golf Club The only New Zealand course designed by the doyen of golf course architecture Dr Alister MacKenzie, Titirangi features extensive areas of native bush and exotic trees accompanied by strongly undulating greens. This is truly an oasis in suburban Auckland and has the most interesting architecture of the Auckland courses. Titirangi has hosted the New Zealand Open three times and from 1977 to 1991 hosted the Australasian Tour event the Air New Zealand Shell Open.

Formosa Golf Resort As the name would suggest, Formosa was built by a Taiwanese entrepreneur in the early 1990s.

Located in the stunning Pohutakawa Coast, it hosted one New Zealand Open (1998) but then fell into difficult financial times. New local ownership is involved in restoring the course to its former self. Several holes offer great ocean views and the terrain itself provides nice elevation change.

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Titirangi Golf Club, Auckland

Kauri Cliffs A course of true international standing providing some of the most exceptional coastal vistas New Zealand has to offer. Located in the far north of the country, award winning Kauri Cliffs enjoys almost sub-tropical climatic conditions to go with golf of both challenge and variety.

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22 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

Formosa Golf Resort

FORMOSA GOLF RESORT

Just a hop and a skip away from central Auckland is Formosa, a little piece of paradise. As one of Auckland’s best kept secrets, the grounds are situated on the beautiful Pohutukawa coast and has panoramic sea views over the Hauraki Gulf. Formosa have extensive private grounds along with an experienced team of staff to ensure all your needs are met.

When it comes to dining, you don’t have to leave the grounds, you can just head to Formosa’s Cascade Restaurant where you’ll have an experience of a lifetime.

Offering seasonal menus all year round, Cascade has a highly experienced chef and professional waiters to serve conferences, large groups, small groups and walkin bookings. You can also hire out one of our 5 private function rooms, including the restaurant for special occasions, gatherings, business meetings and more.

So when it comes to dining, weddings, accommodation or golf what are you waiting for?

The answer is obvious, Formosa.

www.formosa.co.nz

what are you waiting for?

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26 Go Travel NZ 路 Spring 2015

CRUISE New Zealand

by Patti Brown

Thousands of rivers and approximately 14,000 km of coastline, makes a cruise the ultimate way to relax and take in the stunning scenery and unique wildlife of New Zealand. With so much water in and around this breath-taking country, you will be spoilt for choice by the many quality cruise experiences available.

Let us whet your appetite with a few of the best...

Clear and calm in Milford Sounds with Go Orange IMAGE: Julian Apse

FIORDLAND Fiordland is a must-see on any trip around New Zealand and the best way to experience all the beauty on offer is via a leisurely cruise. The Fiordland National Park is a World Heritage area and the stunning landscape of Milford Sound is internationally renowned. On a cruise you will have all the time in the world to capture some remarkable photographs of wildlife in their natural habitat from dolphins playing in the wake of the boat, seals sunbathing on rocky shores to penguins flying through the clear waters.

Good times with Go Orange

Explore Milford Sound and Dusky and Preservation Inlets from the deck of Fiordland Discovery's luxury catamaran. Powerful waterfalls cascade down the sheer cliff faces into the sound that is home to rare penguins, dolphins, fur seals and the occasional visiting whale.

Along with their scenic cruises, Fiordland Discovery offer fishing and diving charters, overnight charters and shorter heli day-trip cruises with the added excitement of landing on the Discovery's helipad. Their crew have many years' local knowledge and their expertise ensures a first-class experience.

Fiordland Discovery uniquely opens up the underwater world to guests via a remotely operated submarine drone. Its powerful camera and lights attract the abundant marine life that can be viewed from the comfort of the boat lounge.

A moody view from aboard the Fiordland Jewel

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Cruise the full length of the Milford Sound and out to the Tasman Sea with Go Orange.

With an open bridge and mainly Kiwi personnel, enjoy an uncrowded, relaxed and personal experience. Grab a fresh hot espresso and take in the wonderful scenery; the ancient hanging rainforests and towering mountains. Be careful though, as you may get wet when the boat takes a pause under Stirling Falls, Milford Sound's highest waterfall!

Experience a true wilderness day cruise with Go Orange and explore the remote Doubtful Sound. Access to Doubtful Sound is via Lake Manapouri followed by a coach ride over the breathtaking Southern Alps; the isolation of this place is what makes the experience so unique. Take advantage of the spacious viewing deck that provides privileged photo opportunities of the unique flora and fauna including the rare Fiordland Crested Penguin.

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Power OR Paddle. Sit back and cruise either Milford or Doubtful Sound in comfort on one of our day cruises OR into the wilderness on one of our guided sea kayak adventures. www.GoOrange.co.nz

info@GoOrange.co.nz

0800 24 66 72

FIORDLAND DISCOVERY

EXPLORE THIS UNIQUE CORNER OF NZ IN COMFORT AND STYLE GUIDED BY EXPERT CREW WITH YEARS OF LOCAL KNOWLEDGE • Milford overnight cruise January - April • Queenstown / Milford helicopter - day cruise options • Fish, dive, hunt Fiordland charters: 5-7 days, May - October • Scenic Fiordland cruises: 7 days, May - October

Fully catered with all equipment supplied

www.fiordlanddiscovery.co.nz

MARLBOROUGH SOUNDS The Marlborough Sounds is a labyrinth of sea-drowned valleys at the northern tip of the South Island featuring 1500km of stunning coastline, beaches, bays and remote islands surrounded by steep hills covered by native bush, plantings of renewable forests and farmlands. The clear azure waters of the Sounds are home to Hectors and Bottlenose dolphins, many different seabirds and fur seals.

Sit back and enjoy the unspoilt natural wonder of the Marlborough Sounds on an exclusive luxury cruise with Experience the Sounds. Explore this largely untouched region aboard the luxury yacht Aparima. A classic 60ft Salthouse motor yacht, she is one of the premier high-end luxury charters operating from Picton. Embark on an unforgettable journey of discovery, while enjoying the luxury of having a personal executive chef and crew on board to cater to your every whim.

Experience the Sounds’ luxury ‘Aparima’

Aparima is ideal for hosting a corporate or family orientated day, or intimate weekend luxury getaway. As a guest you will experience numerous stunning locations throughout the Queen Charlotte Sound, many places only accessible by boat such as Motuara and Alports islands - predator-free sanctuaries home to abundant native bird life and perfect for a stop off to stretch your legs and take some memorable photographs.

C R U IS ES TA IL O R ED LU X U R Y

MARLBOROUGH SOUNDS The people of the Sounds are as much a part of the area as the unique beauty of the scenery. Many live in remote hideaways accessible only by boat. Join the mail run on board the Pelorus Express Mail Boat and see how the locals live.

The Pelorus Express is one of the last remaining genuine Mail Boats left in the world, still delivering mail and groceries as it has been for almost a century. Visit mussel farms and isolated homesteads nestled in quiet secluded bays; see why Pelorus Sound is the mussel capital of the world. See the local wildlife up close and personal and learn about the rare species in the area.

The Pelorus Mailboat delivering to the locals

Book direct & mention this advert for 10% discount

Email: bookings@themailboat.co.nz www.themailboat.co.nz NZ PH: 03 574 1088 International: +64 3 574 1088

Catch your own lunch, with Cruise and Fish Rotorua

ROTORUA Take a cruise in the North Island and see the natural wonders of Rotorua renowned for its geothermal activity, from soothing hot springs to active geysers. A stress-free and leisurely way to gain unparalleled views of the beautiful lakes in Rotorua is via a cruise. Take a scenic tour of Lake Rotorua and the bird sanctuary of Mokoia Island – a volcanic dome rising out of the clear waters of the lake. Visit Sulphur Bay with its mysterious milky water.

Lake Rotomahana, the deepest lake in the North Island is steam-shrouded and magical.

The natural and unspoilt geothermal activity is visible from the unique vantage point of a boat. Take a soak in the world’s largest hot

water springs and relax against a backdrop of pristine native flora.

Cruise and Fish Rotorua invite you to step aboard their boat ‘Nimue’ sit back, relax and enjoy a trout fishing charter, or a cruise to famous Te Rata Bay and its hot water beaches. Fully equipped with everything you’ll need for chance to catch one of Lake Tarawera’s trophy rainbow trout, try cooking your catch in the geothermal hot sands while you relax in a natural hot pool.

means you can access the isolated hot pools of Manupirua and enjoy a private and relaxing soak in the restorative geothermal waters.

The geothermal activity that has shaped the area is what makes the lakes of Rotorua so unique and a cruise is the best way to explore them.

Native bush-clad hills dive steeply into the clear, sparkling waters of Lake Rotoiti. There is abundant birdlife here and stunning views of numerous hidden bays and beaches; the silence only broken by the calls of the geese and native ducks. Exploring the lake by boat

www.cruiseandfish.co.nz info@cruiseandfish.co.nz Tel: +64 21 951959

• • • •

Cruise or fish the pristine waters of Rotorua’s most scenic lake, Lake Tarawera Try jigging, trolling and fly fishing for a famous Tarawera Rainbow Trout Relax and enjoy a soak in the warm thermal waters of Te Rata Bay Fly fish the central North Island’s rivers & streams for Rainbow and wily Brown Trout

No matter what your experience level, Cruise and Fish Rotorua have the expertise to provide you with a personalised fishing adventure on the legendary rivers, stream and lakes in the Rotorua and Taupo regions.

AUCKLAND Home to a million hectares of sheltered sparkling blue waters dotted with picturesque emerald islands; the Hauraki Gulf is ideally suited for a cruise. Keep a look out for dolphins and you may even have the good fortune to see Orcas. Stop off at Waiheke Island; a haven of beautiful vineyards, olive groves, secluded beaches and art galleries.

Waiheke boasts several boutique vineyards, perfect for sipping, sampling and savouring New Zealand’s fine wines and numerous restaurants and cafes whether you favour a casual meal or an upscale multi-course one. There are plenty of things to do on Waiheke from winery tours to horse trekking and even zip-lining.

Located in the outer Hauraki Gulf, Great Barrier Island is another delightful place to explore on a cruise. Depending upon which side of the island you are on you can experience everything from big surf, long sweeping beaches, windswept sand dunes to calm secluded bays ideal for boating and diving. The island is a nature reserve and home to several biologically diverse wetlands and regenerating native forest making it an ideal place to visit for birdwatchers.

After exploring the delights of the wider Gulf enjoy a luxurious Auckland harbour cruise in style and create great memories on board the Auckland Charter boat Exodus, a luxury 17.7 metre Kingfisher launch. For some added fun and excitement it is also equipped with a 4.1 metre inflatable with a 50hp outboard motor, ideal for waterskiing, wakeboarding, kneeboarding, towing the inflatable tube, diving, exploring the shallow waters and shore visits. Experience the ambience, opulence and sheer fun of being on a beautiful boat on the stunning Waitemata Harbour taking in panoramic views of landmarks such as the Harbour Bridge, city skyline, and Rangitoto Island.

Picture perfect aboard Exodus Charters

Exodus Charters - DISCOVER NZ ABOARD ‘EXODUS’ A LUXURIOUS KINGFISHER 58 PREMIER CHARTER BOAT ENJOY A UNIQUE EXPERIENCE ENTERTAINING YOUR CLIENTS, FAMILY & FRIENDS Wine and dine clients on an evening or day cruise, or match them with exciting fishing! If you want to action pack your day we are equipped for water sports and can take you water skiing, boarding or tube riding! We specialize in customized trips for corporate events, extended charters for coastal cruising and Exodus is fully equipped for in shore and game fishing. Exodus Charters offer you a first class service specifically tailored to your needs.

Call captain Garry Ellicott + 64 21 909 999

www.exodus.co.nz

info@exodus.co.nz

BAY OF ISLANDS The Bay of Islands with 144 undeveloped islands dotted amongst its turquoise waters is a haven for nature lovers and adventure seekers. From the vantage point of a relaxing cruise discover immaculate beaches, virgin native forests and fascinating historic sites. See the unspoilt beauty of nature sanctuaries in this maritime adventure playground.

With an abundance of wildlife including penguins, dolphins, marlin, whales, gannets and more, it’s easy to see why the Bay of Islands is New Zealand’s number one holiday destination.

Come and explore one of the most beautiful cruising grounds in the world on the exclusive, luxury yacht, the Zindabar. Sailing is a relaxing, and fun way to cruise the beautiful Bay of Islands. Spend your days sailing, swimming, fishing and enjoying a huge range of water sports. Sail among the islands; absorbing the scenery with tranquillity and effortless pace. Like all the Zindabar cruises on offer, the itinerary is flexible, so unleash your imagination and select a desirable anchorage to enjoy a pleasant lunch on deck followed by a walk on a secluded beach. With careers spanning many years in the elite super yachting industry, the crew have experience with many different nationalities and cultures enabling them to personalise the catering and cruising activities to meet the needs of all guests.

Luxury performance cruiser based in the Bay Of Islands, New Zealand, available for skippered charters. Day-sailing, overnight or extended cruises with water-sports activities, shore excursions, dolphins, wildlife, great cuisine and atmosphere.

So now you have some great ideas to guide you it is time to get out on the water and experience the magic of a cruise in New Zealand. GTNZ

Zindabar at sunset

www.zindabar.co.nz

+64 21 474 516 | captanthony@hotmail.com

Hand-picked, we showcase two outstanding luxury boat charters, the Great Southern, and Yonder Star.

These sumptuous, fully crewed vessels provide supreme comfort and style on custom, multi-night excursions around some of New Zealand’s most exquisite shorelines.

The 23 meter Great Southern affords a spectacular opportunity to explore the Hauraki Gulf, Waiheke and beyond. Fish, visit wineries, explore the hundreds of islands in the area.

Unwind aboard Yonder Star, a magnificent ketch and one of New Zealand’s finest yachts. Explore the idyllic Nelson region, its marine reserves and national parks - there’s no better way.

Embark on a voyage of a lifetime.

36 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

IMAGE: Rob Suisted / Tourism New Zealand

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BESPOKE CHARTERS NESTLED BETWEEN THREE PRISTINE NATIONAL PARKS AND MARINE RESERVES, THE NELSON REGION IS A YEAR-ROUND DESTINATION OFFERING IDYLLIC CRUISING CONDITIONS DUE TO ITS HIGH SUNSHINE HOURS AND SHELTERED LOCATION. There is no better way to experience this picturesque region than onboard the luxurious Yonder Star as she sails between Port Nelson to the azure waters of Tasman Bay and D'Urville Island. One of New Zealand's finest yachts, this magnificent 87 foot Ketch is available for full day, overnight or week long charters in the stunning Abel Tasman National Park region.

Originally named "Oz" the beautiful steel ketch designed by New Zealander Don Brook was launched in 1980. Spacious, solid and very seaworthy, she is ideally suited to the luxury charter market. In 1982, she was refitted to facilitate the needs of film and dive crews by film producer Peter Guber of Rainman and The Colour Purple fame (to name but a few). In 1999, retired from her career in the film industry she received a full makeover. Purchased by local Nelson owners in Florida 2002 she was brought home by three crew on an epic eight-week adventure from the Panama Canal and via the Galapagos Islands and French Polynesia.

Now, Yonder Star's luxury charters offer the finest sailing and cruising in New Zealand waters, selected for their safe and idyllic weather and calm sea conditions, breath-taking scenery, sheltered anchorages, and abundant fishing and diving opportunities.

Guests are graciously hosted by a full crew including Captain, chef extraordinaire and steward. The dining experience onboard Yonder Star offers ever-changing views with guests either dining alfresco in the cockpit area or, for a more intimate dining experience, in the sumptuous saloon. Her skilled chef has a focus on sourcing fresh food and beverages from the Nelson/Tasman region, each meal tailored to meet your needs.

Sailing out of Nelson’s sheltered port past Haulashore Island into the expanse of Tasman Bay make sure to look out for the rare rock formation the Boulder Bank, dotted with character baches and an historic lighthouse. To the west is Abel Tasman National Park, known for its golden sand beaches, gentle walking track, emerald bush clad hills and native birdlife. Not surprisingly it is one of New Zealand’s most popular tourist destinations. Anchor in secluded coves and enjoy swimming and diving in the sparkling clear waters surrounded by rare wildlife, dolphins and seals.

Your luxury charter experience can be as relaxing or as adventurous as you like. Yonder Star's lush interior provides a sense of effortless warmth and sophistication and a full range of activities are available from a library of books, CDs and games to wakeboarding, skiing, snorkelling, ski-biscuits, kayaking and paddleboarding.

Yonder Star Saloon

An ideal venue for an unforgettable wedding

Yonder Star at full sail NZ Classic Motorcycles: Classic Touring Inspired by your Yonder Star experience, once back on land you will find NZ Classic Motorcycles – Nelson's latest all-weather tourist attraction igniting enthusiasm with motorcycle aficionados, historians and lovers of fine art throughout New Zealand.

The state of the art museum showcases one of the largest, most comprehensive private collections of around 300 classic and vintage motorcycles, sidecars and original works of art in the Southern Hemisphere.

An exciting new venture will be launched this summer season with NZ Classic Motorcycles offering the opportunity for riders to partake in accompanied tours on selected classic motorcycles, riding some of the most scenic back roads of the region. A singular experience and the only classic motorcycle tour available in New Zealand.

NZ Classic Motorcycles Museum

For enquiries and bookings contact: Yonder Star

0800 Yonder +64 546 7488 (outside NZ) ingridpenfold@yonderstar.co.nz www.yonderstarcharters.co.nz NZ Classic Motorcycles

+64 3 546 7488 (outside NZ) ingrid @nzclassicmotorcycles.co.nz www.nzclassicmotorcycles.co.nz Curator of the Britten Motorcycle for a limited time

GREAT SOUTHERN LUXURY CHARTER

Often referred to as the City of Sails, Auckland is ideally positioned on the isthmus between two of the finest harbours in the world – Manukau and Waitemata and is a fabulous starting point to put on your intinerary when visiting New Zealand.

Berthed at the viaduct in central Auckland is the luxurious charter vessel the Great Southern. With a convenient parking building only one block away, she is easily accessible. At 23 metres in length and six and a half metres wide the Great Southern is ideally suited for unforgettable day-trips for up to thirty-five guests or overnighters for up to six. She also offers something special as a location for corporate events, weddings and the perfect holiday accommodation for those discerning explorers seeking a singular experience.

With a top speed of 12 knots this luxury vessel provides a stable ride - a spectacular opportunity to explore the region in comfort and style. All her fittings are of the highest standard and the master stateroom is opulently appointed. Enjoy the views from the vantage point of the large seating area complete with wet bar located behind the top fly bridge.

Anchored 10km from Auckland Docked at the Harbour

With no less than 144 islands scattered across the Hauraki Gulf, you can fish, or just take in the sights and enjoy the commentary provided on board about the landmarks and scenery. From Waitemata Harbour the ultimate island retreat of Waiheke is only a half hour away and yet you will feel another world away! Known for its many wineries and vineyards, a wine tasting or tour is a must. Waiheke has become known as New Zealand's "island of wine," home to a dedicated group of winegrowers who have successfully matched the climate and ancient soil structures to the selection of classical grape varieties to produce red and white wines with distinctive varietal character. Waiheke is an ideal spot to stop off and enjoy the many activities on offer from galleries showcasing the talents of the local artists to ziplining among the trees. Take some time out for a stroll along one of Waiheke's many scenic beaches or hire a kayak and explore the shoreline.

OUR SPECIAL DAY OF LUXURY Our 15th wedding anniversary was on the horizon and Jeff and I were both on the same page with what we wanted. We pictured throwing a party to thank all our friends and family for their love and support over the years and agreed upon a nautical theme. When I contacted Gordon at Great Southern Luxury Charter I was soon caught up in his passion for what he does and booked a four hour in-harbour afternoon cruise. Gordon listened to what we wanted and reassured me he would organize any additional staff and caterers as required. The vessel's capacity of 35 guests meant we were able to invite everyone we wanted and have an intimate celebration. Feeling confident that Gordon had the details under control, Jeff and I concentrated on doing our side of the organizing.

The day of our cruise was a typical mild Spring one with a few scattered clouds in a vibrantly blue sky. We were both excited when we arrived at the harbour and boarded the Great Southern. We were warmly greeted by Sharon, our hostess for the day, who gave us a tour of the vessel; we were blown away by the attention to detail that was evident from the lovely décor to the top quality fittings. Our guests were soon arriving and it was fun to greet them and show them around – everyone was suitably impressed by “our” luxury vessel.

Once the cruise was underway everyone got into the spirit of the occasion – it felt incredibly glamorous to be sight-seeing and socialising, wine glass in hand on board such a sleekly presented vessel. It was a real thrill to get a different perspective on the city we have lived in for over forty years; to see iconic landmarks from the water such as the Harbour Bridge and the Chelsea Sugar Refinery. The four hours absolutely flew by. Both of us were so pleased we had arranged such a memorable and unique celebration; definitely one our friends and family will talk about for years to come.

- Amanda & Jeff, Auckland

For more information please contact us at info@luxurycharter.co.nz or phone 021 229 773

Northland

NORTHLAND

The Kauri Museum DIG A LITTLE DEEPER The Kauri Museum is a regional museum which pays tribute to a national treasure and a symbol of Northland’s identity, Agathis Australis, more commonly known as the Kauri tree.

42 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

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hese towering giants have cultural significance, to Maori and pioneering settlers alike. The Kauri Museum recounts the history and the legacy of our ancient Kauri Forests, and in addition to preserving our past, is playing a role in conserving their future, collaborating to “Save our Trees” by raising public awareness to control the spread of the Kauri Dieback disease.

This spring,the award winning Kauri Museum will embark on a new digital storytelling initiative that gives visitors a glimpse into the personal stories and lives of the people who were raised on the Kauri Coast of Northland, New Zealand.

Many of the stories that will be shared have been passed down from generation to generation and in some cases, may have grown a little taller in the re-telling. These often humorous anecdotes will provide an additional layer of information for the popular permanent galleries throughout the Museum as well as the surrounding heritage buildings. These include the original Paparoa School, Pioneer church and the Matakohe Post and Telegraph office.

Volunteer’s Hall, The Kauri Museum

TO PAGE 46

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Preserved in Kauri gum

The Kauri Museum’s Totara House

44 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

Real New Zealand Heritage EXPERIENCE THE ADVENTURES OF OUR PIONEERING SETTLERS AND APPRECIATE THE LEGACY OF OUR KAURI FORESTS

The award winning Kauri Museum tells the story of New Zealand's pioneering settlers though the lens of the Kauri Industry. The museum specializes in the legacy of our Kauri Forests; specifically the strong durable timber and the highly prized Kauri Gum.

09 431 7417

5 Church Road, RD 1 , Matakohe 0593 Northland, New Zealand

You will be transported back in time listening to the sounds of the blacksmith forge, Ms Strict conducting a school lesson or a group of Gumdiggers clustered around their billy tea at the end of a day’s work. Become acquainted with many of the local identities of Matakohe, including Mavis Smith, the matriarch of Totara House who continued to live in her family home, built in 1896, until she passed away at the age of 102.

A number of Mavis’ memories will be preserved through the retelling of her stories at certain locations both within the Museum which she once helped found and at historic Totara House which can be visited by appointment.

I, Mavis now tired and worn, I’ve lived in this house since I was born Eight children, of Emily and George,

While The Kauri Museum recognises the opportunities that new technologies can bring, it also emphasizes that their introduction will remain unobtrusive to the visual landscape and will be available on an optional basis, to those who wish to use their own devices or hire one from the museum. To achieve this, The Kauri Museum is partnering with PingX to deliver proximity based experiences leveraging low energy Bluetooth technology.

In addition to providing greater accessibility to collections, the experience will continue to develop to improve way-finding and provide language translations in the coming seasons.

Grew and prospered within these walls Now I live all alone at 90 years old And can’t stand the thought of this being sold I can hear my siblings, in their closing days Don’t change anything while I am away Just think of a stranger in mother’s chair

For more information or to download the digital tour for The Kauri Museum visit www.kaurimuseum.com. Stories and information about the Museum will be available prior and post, as well as during your visit.

We all had our places, and then some to share

Mavis Smith (2000)

The Kauri Museum is a must-see for New Zealanders and international visitors alike.

Less than a two hour drive from Auckland and one hour from Whangarei, the Museum makes for a great day-trip or holiday destination on your Northland getaway. GTNZ The Kauri Museum 5 Church Rd, Matakohe 0593, Northland, NZ

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 158, 200 Area - 13, 789 km2 Main reason to visit: Weather and people Top attraction: Amazing beaches Fun fact: Kauri trees can grow to more than 50m tall, their trunks measuring up to 16m around.

Smith Wing, The Kauri Museum

46 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

Ten million years ago a series of violent eruptions created a large land mass off New Zealand’s northeast coast. Constant erosion by wind and wave action, combined with glacial and interglacial sea level changes have created the stunningly dramatic and beautiful cluster of islands and rock stacks that we know as the Poor Knights. Separated from mainland New Zealand for two million years, these densely forested islands are home to some of the country’s most endangered native wildlife.

It was a sunny Tuesday morning with a gentle southerly breeze when we set off to the Poor Knights on a three-day diving adventure. A comfortable boat, great food, excellent company and the prospect of diving at the best dive sites Northland has to offer – what more could we ask for? The first dive site was in the dead calm of Butterfish Bay where we swam through the Maomao Arch and hung out with the big Snapper in the back of the bay. Oculina Point and Crystal Cave were next with a wall of Leather Jackets busy getting their fill. An afternoon dive in The Gardens and El Torito was full of Pink Maomao, a few Stingrays across the sand and a carpet shark too. A fun night spent in the cave rounded off day one.

Next morning we were off to Northern Arch, and a slight current meant that the Arch was full of Pink Maomao, Golden Snapper and even a couple of big Kingfish.

Down to Landing Bay Pinnacle and the walls were covered in Tambjas, Verconis and Marosa, engaging in some Nudi-love! Before the wind swung round, we headed down to South Harbour for a dive at Blue Maomao Arch; the best dive I’ve ever done! Full of Blue Maomao in the arch, schooling Kingfish, Koheru and even some Dolphins in the channel; it was certainly a dive to remember.

With all that excitement, it was amazing that anyone got any sleep that night, but next morning Middle Arch beckoned, and a couple more stingrays, Blue Maomao and Nudis greeted us. A dive at Red Baron Cove was next, the cracks and chimneys glistened in the sunshine and the largest Anemone I’ve ever seen sat in a crack eight metres up on the shelf. To finish off, we dived Rikoriko - the cave we’d slept in the night before last.

The trip back was a chance to relax and take it all in; sheer cliffs plunging into a marine environment that is as unique as the islands themselves. Marine life is abundant within the protected waters of the marine reserve, and the islands are gloriously rich in flora and fauna

How wonderful it was to do a three-day trip midweek, relaxing in the sun and marvelling at The Poor Knights in all their glory. The journey back was sunny too - summer is just around the corner – and long may it last.

A D V E N T U R E S

poor Knights Dive Trips Oceanblue Adventures specializes in liveaboard dive charters offering weekend and extended diving trips to dive Poor Knights Islands.

Combine a comfortable boat, great food, excellent company and diving at the best dive sites New Zealand's Northland has to offer!

Call +64 (0)274 880459 info@oceanblue.co.nz tuTuKAKA, New Zealand

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Bay of Islands

BAY OF ISLANDS

WAITANGI history and beauty in the Bay of Islands

by Vincent Wilder The Waitangi Treaty Grounds is New Zealand’s premier historic site where in 1840 New Zealand’s most significant document was signed by the British Crown and Maori Chiefs: The Treaty of Waitangi.

48 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

“WE WERE INVITED TO STAND ON THE SPOT WHERE NEW ZEALAND’S FOUNDING DOCUMENT - THE TREATY OF WAITANGI - WAS SIGNED ON 6 FEBRUARY 1840

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espite being born and bred in New Zealand, in 33 years I had never made a pilgrimage to this remarkable site. So, in 2015 I resolved to remedy this oversight.

After a little research on the internet , I discovered that the best way to really bring my visit alive was with a Guided Tour followed up by taking in a Cultural Performance and partaking in a traditional Hangi for dinner.

There are a number of ways to experience Waitangi, but to make the most of my time in this incredible place, I chose the Ultimate

Combo pass. Included in this pass is a tour with a knowledgeable guide as well as a traditional welcome and cultural performance from resident group Te Pitowhenua.

The day of my Waitangi experience dawned clear and calm, and I enjoyed the pleasant stroll to Waitangi from my accommodation.

I joined the small group of tourists waiting eagerly at the entrance to the John Scott Visitor Centre. We were greeted by our guide who invited us to stand on the spot where New Zealand's founding document – the Treaty of Waitangi or Te Tiriti o Waitangi – was signed on 6 February 1840.

I learned how this document has influenced the unique land that we now call Aotearoa, New Zealand. Interpretive panels begin the story with ancestral connections to the signatories of the Treaty. Our guide wove a story and made history come alive before me. A truly enlightening experience.

Stepping outside our guide led us along a lush native boardwalk down to the sparkling waters of the beautiful bay, where I was delighted to see Ngatokimatawhaorua, the world’s largest ceremonial war canoe. What an impressive craft! It was a pleasure to relax in the picturesque setting while listening www.gotravelnewzealand.com 49

Welcome to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds New Zealand’s most important historic site where in 1840 New Zealand’s founding document was signed: the Treaty of Waitangi.

Guided Tours Let our guides bring the Treaty to life and enhance your visit with a guided tour of the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and its treasures.

50 minute tours leave every hour on the hour

Cultural Performances Be entertained with a traditional Māori welcome (p whiri) and a high-energy cultural performance inside our carved meeting house.

35 minute performances several times a day

Hāngi & Concert Enjoy an intimate themed evening and a special dining experience. Your evening starts with the unveiling of the Hāngi (earth oven), followed by a cultural performance and a hāngi dinner shared with your Māori hosts.

Tuesday and Thursday evening.

December to April. 6pm – 8.30pm Make the most of your Waitangi experience with an

ULTIMATE COMBO: Admission + Guided Tour + Cultural Performance 1 Tau Henare Drive, Waitangi, Bay of Islands 0800 9248 2644 (Free phone within NZ) +64 9 402 7437

www.waitangi.org.nz

to our guide relate the story of the Maori ancestors’ journey to New Zealand.

The tour continued up a gently sloping track to the flagstaff – the perfect vantage point to take in the incredible vista that is the Bay of Islands. Underneath the flagstaff is the very spot in which the Treaty was signed; magnificent in its beauty, it is also steeped in history and meaning. To hear the history of New Zealand told in the exact spot where it unfolded was an emotional and significant experience.

Our guide encouraged us to explore the grounds and the Treaty House, officially ‘The British Residency' and one of the oldest wooden buildings in New Zealand. Expertly refurbished, it's a step back in time to wander the rooms and gardens, including the room where the Treaty of Waitangi was drawn up in 1840. I appreciated our guide's encouragement to take our time and look around; it would be impossible to do justice to the site if one were hurried along.

Outside the majestic carved meeting house, Te Pitowhenua, the resident Maori Cultural group, issued their challenge; a traditional welcome (our guide explained) that determines whether visitors come in peace. Our group accepted the challenge (which our guide highly recommended!) and we were welcomed into the meeting house to witness a high-energy performance of traditional Maori dance, singing, poi twirling, stick throwing, and haka. I felt transported back in time, first through song and dance, and then, up close as the Maori warriors demon-

strated their agility and skill with traditional weapons. I was lucky enough to be in the front row, and the taiaha (a close-quarters staff weapon) literally whistled past my ear!

The high-energy of the warriors display was followed by the majesty of the poi and the speed and skill of the traditional stick games.

At the conclusion of the performance, we were all invited to take away a memory of the day with a photo with the performers.

I am glad I took advantage of this opportunity as it is such a unique photo and one that I like to look at and reminisce about my Waitangi experience.

I had decided to take in the evening experience too and had built up a healthy appetite in anticipation of a traditional Maori Hangi.

Beginning at the fully licensed Whare Waka Café, the modern earth oven cooks a contemporary hangi. I mixed and mingled with the other guests and enjoyed hearing their reactions to their Waitangi experience – the overwhelming majority were blown-away by their day at Waitangi. Tantalizing aromas wafted from the oven as we moved to Te Whare Runanga to enjoy a themed Cultural Performance. The performance was magical and very moving; I felt proud to be a New

Zealander as I looked at the rapt expressions on the faces of the other guests.

The day was perfectly completed by relaxing and unwinding over a delicious buffet dinner. I felt like my day had been the ultimate way to immerse myself in Maori culture and to learn how Waitangi has helped to shape this country. My journey is one I shall never forget. GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 4, 500 Area - 260 km2 Main reason to visit: The Islands Top attraction: Waitangi Treaty Grounds Fun fact: Russell was NZ’s first capital

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 51

Flagstaff at dawn

WAITANGI MUSEUM A new addition to Waitangi, opening in February 2016, is the museum and education centre. Right on site, this state-of-the-art building will greatly enhance your Waitangi experience. The new museum will reveal the stories and origins of Waitangi in greater depth through high-quality exhibitions and learning spaces, making use of a wide range of media and visuals. Significant taonga (treasures) associated with Waitangi are currently scattered throughout New Zealand, and the new state of the art, secure, climate-controlled building will ensure a safe haven for their return home. GTNZ

TARGET CHARTERS FISHING EXPERIENCE We arrived in the beautiful Bay of Islands in October, and fishing was big on our agenda.

We chose to explore the islands with Target Charters, and from glowing reports, I was very confident we wouldn’t be disappointed.

My wife and I met at the wharf in Paihia by the very friendly hosts Ross and Frances, where we boarded their beautiful boat. A stunning day, the morning sun was bouncing off the wharf as we set off to explore the islands and catch some fish. With over 40 years of fishing experience in Northland, Ross knew exactly where to go, and with the help of the on-board Fish Finder, we steamed for about half an hour before deciding to throw out some rods. I waited patiently for the next twenty minutes or so, getting a few nibbles, then came a huge bite on my line. It took off – reel screaming - I could feel it was big! One epic battle later, I had a Kingfish on board and there were huge cheers all round. What a moment! The best of my short lived fishing career, for sure.

The rest of the trip was just as special, we’d booked the boat for the whole day and continued to motor round the islands.

Simply cruising through the various bays and around the islands was incredible. An encounter with some friendly dolphins jumping around the bow of boat was a real showstopper - they were clearly having a great time, much like us! Ross and his crew provided excellent service throughout the whole trip, ensuring we were comfortable and catered for at all times. The cold drinks went down a treat after lunch and we felt like we were in paradise - certainly living the good life.

With a fading sun, the BBQ was fired up and with Ross filleting the fish properly (as I watched on, learning) we subsequently dined on our own fresh catch. It was exquisite and a perfect end to the day. Target Charters comes hugely recommended, the personalised adventure in the hands of such experts is second to none. We’ll definitely be back.

A Thompson, Queenstown

www.targetcharters.co.nz

Trip Advisor reviews: “A must do; the best activity in New Zealand” “Excellent well run boat” “Outstanding experience” “Great afternoon of family fun, all ages made very welcome”

Auckland

AUCKLAND

IMAGES: Daniel de Jong/Savoy Charters

HAVEN above water

by Robert Brown Explore the breathtaking Hauraki Gulf and beyond in style, with one of Auckland’s leading yacht charter companies. With so much to see and do in this coastal paradise, you’ll want to stay longer...

54 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

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oored at the Viaduct, downtown Auckland, the Savoy is a Luxury Charter Yacht fully equipped to handle half-day and full-day cruises throughout the beautiful Hauraki Gulf. Overnight or multi-day cruises explore further afield for some of the best fishing around Great Barrier Island. Comfortably sleeping six, with a large kitchen and dining area, the Savoy is perfect for entertaining. The wide multi-hull design also makes it incredibly stable and comfortable for those who are normally not so comfortable on the water. Sail into a quiet, secluded bay, and enjoy the tranquillity and relaxation of your own private slice of paradise.

Catering to both corporate needs and individuals Savoy Charters is all about flexibility.

Take clients out on the Harbour to watch the Volvo Ocean Race or for a sight-seeing cruise. For individuals, Savoy provides fishing charters, birthday charters, hen and stag parties. Memorable weddings are completed with stunning photo opportunities.

Popular with celebrities: Miley Cyrus enjoys the Savoy

The Savoy Skippers are, without a doubt, Auckland's best fish whisperers and dolphin diviners. They are locals who are very experienced, and their love of the harbour and the

Whangaparaoa Lodge Redefining Casual Luxury in the Heart of Whangaparaoa

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The latest technology is used to find seabirds, which can result in seeing whales and dolphins

islands is obvious. The Savoy is equipped with Simrad, a leading marine electronics brand for over 60 years. Being powered by the Simrad NSS Evo2 combined with the Simrad Halo Pulse compression radar enables Savoy to track down sea birds with long range detections. This puts you right on spot for some dynamic fishing (and guaranteed to catch large fish) and as a result dolphins and whales are often seen leaping from the water. The deckhands/crew are all fishing fanatics and can assist with all levels of experience, even those that have never cast a rod.

Fishing is the most popular charter, be it for a commercial client or a bunch of guys wanting a weekend away with plenty of photos of large snapper and kingfish to show their mates at work on Monday.

Auckland has a beautiful harbour with easy access and is just a hop skip and jump, or in nautical miles very few, to the handful of islands dotted conveniently in the Hauraki Gulf. Depending on the length of the charter the Savoy can take you to some or all of the islands.

Waiheke Island, about 17.7 km (11.0 mi) from Auckland, is the second-largest island in the Gulf and is home to some of the best vineyards in New Zealand. Head ashore to partake in a premium wine tasting experience and work your way through a selection of wines, under the guidance of a local

56 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

expert. Alternatively, enjoy an intimate wine tasting onboard Savoy with your family and friends, in a gorgeous secluded bay.

Each charter experience is uniquely tailored, with Savoy staff keen to know if there is a particular Waiheke wine that you'd like to try or any other refreshment guaranteed to quench your thirst. The whole experience is about luxury and flexibility.

Take in Rangitoto and Mototapu islands (literally joined at the hip by a causeway).

The Savoy can moor close-by while you go ashore and explore the dormant volcano of Rangitoto – an iconic and highly visible landmark. Home to over 200 species of trees and flowers including several species of orchid, this is a wonderful stop off to have a stroll and capture some lovely photos. Tiritiri Matangi Island, a pest-free bird sanctuary is the only place in Auckland to see a Takahe up close and personal. Take in Kawau (home to native flightless birds the kiwi and weka) and Rotoroa Island, which is undergoing revegetation to restore it to its original beautiful native bush covered state.

If you are feeling even more adventurous, travel to the furthermost island,Great Barrier, 100km north-east of central Auckland. The island is comprised of highly contrasting coastal environments from the long, clear beaches, windswept sand dunes, and heavy surf of the eastern coast to the sheltered and calm western coast; home to hundreds of

tiny, secluded bays offering some of the best diving and boating in the country.

The Savoy’s wonderful chef accompanies most of the catered charters, and the bar is fully stocked with (as you would expect) some of New Zealand's finest wines and boutique beers.

Savoy Charters is one of the supporting partners of Big Angry Fish, a well known fishing show on TV3, and in association, provides tailored fishing packages into remote and untouched locations, for unforgettable fishing with some of the world’s best fisherman.

Right in the heart of the City of Sails, Savoy is one of the busiest and most popular charter boats in the region, their expertise at creating truly memorable experiences second to none. GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Nickname - The City of Sails Population - 1.486 million Area - 4,894 km2 Main reason to visit: West Coast beaches Top attraction: Waiheke Island Fun fact: Auckland has the highest percentage of boat owners in the world per capita

LUXURY YACHT CHARTERS Cruise the Auckland Harbour in luxury or experience fishing in the Hauraki Gulf like never before with the team at Savoy Charters

Savoy takes up to 45 guests

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Savoy uses the latest technology to track birds diving

CORPORATE CHARTERS HARBOUR CRUISES SPORT & GAME FISHING MULTI DAY RETREATS GOURMET CUISINE FREEDIVING & SCUBA DIVING VIP TRANSFERS info@savoy.co.nz 路 021 972 869

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AS A RESULT THIS MAY PUT US RIGHT IN FRONT OF DOLPHINS & WHALES

*Mention this feature to receive 10% discount and free champagne for guests *conditions apply

Coromandel

COROMANDEL

IMAGES: Glass Bottom Boat

THE CALL of the sea

by Lynette Dey Not being a huge boat fan, all of my previous visits to the Cathedral Cove had been on foot. Like thousands of other visitors every year, I have made the short walk down from the car park to spend some time in the cove that is one of New Zealand’s most well recognised scenic wonders. However, the lure of many other spectacular volcanic features to be found along this coast, inaccessible by land, inspired me to take a tour with the Glass Bottom Boat.

58 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

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needn’t have worried about the boat. The characteristic yellow and blue vessel that was waiting for us to embark at the Whitianga wharf was reassuringly solid and very stable, purpose built, with good access and seating.

We sped away from the wharf across the estuary to pick up more passengers waiting at Ferry Landing, and then headed out around the point on our voyage of discovery. First stop Shakespeare Cliff, with our guide explaining how it got its name and pointing out the seabird nests drilled into the high pale bluffs. On we went around a series of tranquil bays and beaches to one of the tour highlights – Cathedral Cove.

The aspect from the water shows off the reflections of the strange coastal shapes, and the boat is able to get in very close. As we drift idly, the floor comes up so that we can see the fish through the glass bottom.

And this is the only time on the entire trip that the passengers get wet – those that don snorkels (provided by the crew as part of the tour) and slip into the silky sea. I am happy to view from the deck, not sure if the glass is magnifying those fish, because they look really big. We can even see crayfish walking on the sea floor, safely inside the cordon of pots set around the perimeter of the marine reserve. These fish are smart as well as big.

The floor comes down again and we are off further east along the dramatic cliffs, past a stunning array of unusual rock formations, evidence of former volcanic activity through this part of The Coromandel. Mark explains the geology and history of the coastline as we travel, and the much-photographed Cathedral Cove is only one of many unique spots that can be viewed from the water.

If you had been gazing up the high white cliffs with their tortuous volcanic cracks and nooks, you may well have missed the tell-tale dorsal fins slicing through the limpid water.

However the presence of two orca doesn’t escape the well-trained eye of the skipper of the Glass Bottom Boat as the giant creatures slide effortlessly by. Large marine animals are a relatively common sight in the sheltered waters of the Mercury Bay, especially around the rich food source that is Te-Whanganui-a-

Hei marine reserve. While Mark and Hayley and their team don’t set out to “dolphin watch”, there are plenty of opportunities to have a close range experience with a stunning array of wildlife as you explore the waters on one of their purpose-built boats.

And they do have a marine mammal watch permit, so that when you encounter one of these magnificent specimens, it is no problem to safely interact in a way that also protects the freedom of these wild itinerants.

sea caves.

Si

DID YOU KNOW? Nickname - The Coro Population - 26, 178 Area - 2, 201 km2 Main reason to visit: Iconic coastline Top attraction: Hot Water Beach / Cathedral Cove Fun fact: Dig your own hot pool on Hot Water Beach at low tide

Hot Water Beach, Coromandel IMAGE: Adam Bryce / Tourism New Zealand

When the tide and sea are right, you can get up close to the massive Big Bay Blowhole, and sneak through the aptly named Washing Machine. At the outer end of our voyage, we stop for a moment by a dark opening in the towering rock face, and as the swell passes, we slip through the craggy entrance and find ourselves in the bell-shaped Orua Sea Cave. The sound of the sea echoes off the arching ceiling, which surprisingly looks quite dry, and is multi-hued with different rock strata and brilliant marine algae. The boat circles easily, and we can see the curved walls of the cave disappearing below us into the depths.

There are many ways to explore this wild and beautiful coast: by kayak, snorkel and boat. What the guided tour with Mark on The Glass Bottom Boat gave me was a real sense of the stories of the place, both in the natural sense, but also in terms of navigators who passed through and early Maori who made it home. You can really understand why this place is so revered by local iwi, and why so many other marauding parties tried to get their hands on the abundance of marine and bird life that still inhabits the bay. Cathedral Cove may be a tourist mecca and the favoured site of film crews and photographers, but there is so much more to be experienced around this icon of The Coromandel if you get out on the water and go adventuring with a local crew. GTNZ

121A Cook Drive, Whitianga 3510 Phone: 07 866 0456 Fax: 07 866 0457 Email us today: magic@thelostspring.co.nz (General enquiries) dayspa@thelostspring.co.nz (Dayspa bookings and enquiries)

Crystal Clear water from 667 meters below the earth’s surface.

Waikato

WAIKATO

Waitomo Cave glowworms (Arachnocampaluminosa) IMAGES: Spellbound Glowworm & Cave Tour

Spellbound by Waitomo’s MAGICAL GLOWWORMS

by Julie Manson

When we planned our trip to New Zealand, one thing we were both in strong agreement over was including exploring the caves of Waitomo and seeing the magical glowworms we had heard so much about.

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rip advisor is always a good starting place and soon we selected the Spellbound Glowworm and Cave Tour based on their ‘glowing’ reviews.

We wanted to have a personalised experience without getting wet as you do black water rafting or abseiling. So after phoning the company the evening before, directions provided, we confidently made our way to the Spellbound office in the Waitomo Village store. The store is really more of a café than anything else and it was great to discover such charming and friendly country hospitality. We took the opportunity to unwind after our drive and to have an early lunch before our tour departed at 11am.

The trip out to the cave was one of the many surprises of our day, we were immediately engaged by our guide who chatted to us pointing out landmarks along the way. The drive was a beautifully scenic one featuring native forest, limestone outcrops, bluffs and gorges.

After driving along a farm track and stopping in a grassy paddock we all got out and followed our guide down a meandering path as it wound along the side of the gorge and around rocky outcrops. Soon we arrived at the stream which intriguingly disappeared into the hillside.

Once fitted with hard hats and lights we continued our walk underground, both excited in anticipation of finally getting to see glowworms up close. The first thing visible in the dark were the silk threads hanging down like tiny chains of pearls.

Our very knowledgeable guide was able to answer every question we threw at him. He told us that each glowworm has up to 30 of these chains, which are acidic because the mucous droplets actually come from their stomach! They glow to catch their food; flying insects attracted and confused by the blue-green lights are snared by the glowworms' sticky hanging lines, hauled up and eaten alive. We got to witness this happening; fascinating and a little gruesome!

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Our guide motioned us forward towards a red raft and we easily and safely board. Then it’s lights off, to let our eyes adjust to the darkness, and we gently drift downstream. The number of glowing lights gradually increases and the variation in their brightness really added to the effect of a starry night sky overhead. It was a unique experience to sit quietly, the subterranean darkness broken only by the magical glow.

After a break for a hot drink and biscuits, we explored a second cave that opened up to larger caverns, once we were further underground.

Then openings to the surface tomo (hole or shaft) appeared, with the path ending at a point where a particularly large shaft of light was beaming down. A light further in revealed more cave – another kilometre we were told. Potentially one day Speleologists could burrow and dig into the Flood Caverns, beyond where we were in the Cave of the Spirit /Te Ana o te Atua.

Reluctantly we re traced our steps, taking in our last views of the magical glowworms. Then it was lights on again, the green light from the forest illuminating the exit and beckoning us back to reality and a warm afternoon.

Our glowworm experience had been a wonderful one and it was capped off by our stay at the highly regarded Waitomo Caves Guest Lodge where, on arrival we were delighted to find some wonderful touches, such as homemade biscuits in our room.

It was time to relax and recharge while we poured over the many photos we had taken. The personalized, intimate and enchanting experience of the caves we had courtesy of Spellbound will be one that we remember forever. GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 430, 800 Area - 25, 000 km2 Main reasons to visit: Surfing and glow worms Top attraction: Raglan’s surf spots and Waitomo Caves Fun fact: The wave at Raglan is the longest left hand point break in the world

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5

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www.gotravelnewzealand.com 65

Bay of Plenty

BAY OF PLENTY

WHITE ISLAND anniversary adventure

by Michael Nolan For our tenth wedding anniversary, my wife and I decided to make a helicopter adventure to White Island our gift to each other. Located just 49 kilometres north of Whakatane, White Island or Te Puia o Whakaari is New Zealand’s most active marine volcano and what sounded to us like an exciting destination.

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“Soon, flying at around 1500 feet, we circled the volcano gazing straight down into the crater.

WHAT AN INCREDIBLE VIEW!

W K

e arrived at Whakatane Airport and checked in at the hangar reception where we received a comprehensive safety briefing about the helicopter and White Island. Soon it was time to board our sleek-looking helicopter. Our pilot, Ross, has been flying out to White Island for over five years and his expertise made us feel very comfortable and able to relax fully and enjoy the flight. Ross provided an informative commentary about the landmarks below us and answered our many questions knowledgeably.

The twenty-minute scenic flight took us over Whale Island (Moutohora), a small dormant volcano declared a wildlife refuge in 1965 and protected by both the Department of Conservation and local Maori, Ngati Awa. In the distance I could see White Island puffing away with its billowing steam cloud reaching high into the sky; a geological wonder.

Soon, flying at around 1500 feet, we circled the volcano gazing straight down into the crater. What an incredible view! Even from the air we could smell the sulphur leeching out of the massive vents or fumaroles. We were both on a high from the flight and

grabbed each other’s hand, squeezing tight as we began the thrilling descent to the crater. As Ross expertly and gently landed on the crater floor the scent of sulphur tickled my nose – a friendly greeting from the volcano itself. As we exited the helicopter, I was surprised to discover that the island doesn’t smell too bad – just a slight sulphurous odour, but nothing like the “egg gone bad” smell I expected after having been to Rotorua. Stepping out into the surreal and eerily lunar landscape felt like being on another planet as we were surrounded by towering red-coated crater walls and steaming vents.

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Orange hard hats firmly in place and gas masks in hand, we headed off to explore the volcano. Ross, who was also our guide for the walking tour, was careful to ensure we all kept together on the weathered track and away from brittle patches of crust.

There are no barriers in place so it was reassuring to have such an experienced guide as Ross to show us the roaring fumaroles and bubbling mud pools.

Frontier Helicopters have been bringing people to White Island and safely guiding them around for over 24 years, and I had every confidence in Ross.

The walk up from the crater floor was exhilarating – never before has the Earth’s crust felt so fragile to me.

Steaming acid brooks hissed stern warnings and mud pools bubbled conspiratorially against a backdrop of rich, vibrant colours and tiny glistening sulphur crystals. As we approached the crater in the middle of the island gas

masks were quickly utilised as we encountered the acrid steam from the milky green acid lake.

White Island’s last eruption was in the evening in 2013 when no one was present.

It was a huge event covering the entire crater floor in a layer of ash and rocks. Ross

DID YOU KNOW? Nickname - BOP Maori name - Te Moana-a-Toi Population - 277, 100 Area - 12, 231 km2 Main reason to visit: 259km of open coastline Top attraction: White Island Fun fact: White Island has been in a near continuous stage of smoking since it was discovered

by James Cook in 1769.

R OF E T A R C E H WALK IN T VE I T C A T S O M

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pointed out the monitoring equipment discretely located at various sites enabling scientists to monitor the volcanic activity at all times.

Winding our way back down the edge of the crater, we took in the vista from the crater floor and out to sea. At the far eastern side of the crater lies the ruins of the abandoned sulphur-mining factory that many years ago stood strong. Sulphur was first mined here in the mid-1880’s and again in the early 1900’s. The operation came to an abrupt halt in 1914 when part of the western crater collapsed resulting in a lahar (or mudslide) which killed all ten workers. Some years later, operations commenced again only to conclude for the final time in the 1930’s. Ross narrates the history of White Island as we navigate our way through old doorways and past rusted cogs and crumbling walls. It is amazing to think that people once lived in this harsh environment that is home now only to seabirds and a few hardy rats.

All too soon it was time to head back to the helicopter. As we lifted off, there was one last opportunity to take in the unique beauty of the volcano. As the island, shrouded in plumes of white steam receded in the distance, my wife and I were in complete agreement that we had experienced the most amazing anniversary ever. GTNZ

IMAGE: Rob Suisted/Tourism New Zealand

Taupo

TAUPO

Mount Ruapehu VISTA

by Leon Harbuck On a recent wonderful road trip around the North Island, my dear Dad was due to have his 65th birthday, and I resolved to give him the best birthday present of his life. Dad is a US Air Force retiree and madly enthusiastic about aircraft. Over the course of his 35-year military service, he has flown in a myriad of military planes and helicopters both landing and taking off at times from aircraft carriers and even the ice at Antarctica.

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espite all his exciting airborne adventures, I knew that in his heart he had always wanted to experience taking off from water in a floatplane. I remember watching an old black and white Hollywood movie and Dad being enthralled by the unusual aircraft.

I had secretly arranged for a flight in Taupo on the second to last day of our adventure.

When I revealed my plan to Neil at Taupo's Floatplane, he was immediately on board and wanted to help make the experience a unique and memorable one. When I told Neil that we were spending the night before at accommodation on the waterfront he generously offered to pick us up from there.

I could hardly wait to see the look on Dad's face when the plane would swoop down onto Lake Taupo to collect us.

stunned disbelief. I just nodded affirmatively and taking Dad by his arm, led him over to meet Neil.

The next day dawned clear and calm with a few white clouds moving slowly across the sky. I had arranged for an early breakfast to start the birthday celebrations, and as Dad tucked into a cooked breakfast, he was none the wiser about our impending adventure.

coffee out onto the deck to enjoy the morning sunshine. Dad's ears pricked up instantly when he heard the drone of the incoming floatplane, and he intently watched as it circled before gently descending to touchdown on the lake. His smile was broad as he continued to watch the plane as it was expertly manoeuvred to the dock closest to us. Neil disembarked and quickly tethered the craft before waving at us.

Neil had told me to keep a look-out for him around 9.00 am so I invited Dad to bring his

"Happy birthday!" I announced as I gestured toward the floatplane. Dad looked at me in

I had chosen the Mt Ruapehu Vista flight that Neil told me was the most popular of

FIND US

Minutes later we were comfortably seated and excitedly anticipating the take-off. What a unique experience it was to go from the sensation of floating like a boat to roaring along skimming the surface of the water, before gently ascending into the sky.

Ferry Road, Boat Wharf, Taupo

the scenic flights on offer. It is a special way to take in the beauty of Tongariro National Park and the volcanoes. We flew south covering the full length of Lake Taupo – a bird's eye view is the only way to really get a perspective on the size of the great lake. Neil pointed out the Horomatangi Reef (which can only be seen from above), and told us how it was formed from Lava domes and is located in the area of the last volcanic eruption from Lake Taupo.

Crater Lake, Mt Ruapehu

Once south of the lake, we entered the Tongariro National Park. Below were the vibrant blues and greens of the crater lakes dotted amongst the moonscape of the volcanic mountains. Neil pointed out the famous Tongariro crossing and seeing it from above really put into perspective the scale of this walk. We passed Mt Ngauruhoe – Mt Doom of Lord of the Rings fame – what a thrill to see the fiercely wild mountain slopes of Mordor. As we continued to climb towards the summit of Mt Ruapehu (at 2800m above sea-level Mt Ruapehu is New Zealand's highest volcano) below us was the milky aquamarine of the steam-shrouded Crater Lake. Neil informed us that the temperature of the lake varies from 15 to 55 degrees Celsius, and it was this lake that was the source of New Zealand's greatest rail disaster – Tangiwai.

I suspect it would take a week of hard-core tramping to see all we got to see in our 60-minute adventure.

It was a great privilege to see from the air landscapes

The Flying Trout Boutique Lodge is superbly elevated, overlooking the stunning waters of Lake Taupo with three beautifully decorated suites providing the ultimate in comfort.

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Ideal for International travellers and New Zealand travellers on holiday. Dabble in a game of tennis or enjoy brunch overlooking the court, with the sun beaming of behind. A private spa room is a superb escape and any time of year, as is the billard room or relax and unwind with a selection of premium wine and beer while enjoying the picturesque views of stunning surrounding mountains and Lake Taupo.

+64 7 56 26 939 theflyingtroutlodge@outlook.co.nz

The Deluxe Tui Suite is a highlight for the Lodge. This top level suite has absolutely stunning mountains and Lake views. Native palms and trees frame the Lodge and grounds, creating a true native Kiwi experience.

The Flying Trout Boutiqe Lodge is privately owned by your kiwi hosts Linaire and Rob Shaw whose aim is to give you a wonderfully comforting and genuine kiwi holiday.

that would otherwise be inaccessible for my father. The floatplane expertly flown by Neil is ideally suited for taking in the scenery; flying slowly and steadily enough to allow time for soaking in the views and taking photographs. It felt like we were close enough to the summit to reach out and touch it – what an exhilarating experience!

Neil was a fantastic pilot and guide, and his local knowledge was abundant as he narrated both Maori folklore and historical facts relating to the landscapes below us. We had been so engrossed by the experience as it unfolded that my dad and I looked at each other in surprise when Neil announced that it was time to head back to Taupo.

The descent back over Lake Taupo afforded another perspective on this beautiful landmark. The water was glassy and a deep, vivid blue as Neil expertly touched down – the spray rushing up around us and adding to the thrill of the landing.

We were both on a high after such an amazing journey and could not thank Neil enough. As he steered us back towards our accommodation, Neil talked enthusiastically

of his passion for sharing the beauty of New Zealand's scenery with everyone he encounters. There is a particular pleasure for Neil in being present when those from different cultures (who may have grown up in "concrete jungles") first experience the vast space and pristine waters of the North Island.

Neil enjoys the hands-on style of flying that floatplanes give; they confirm for him that the romance of flying still exists. Each takeoff and landing on the water is different depending on the weather conditions and the proximity of other water-craft.

"But it is not all about me", insists Neil. "All of our pilots have the same passion".

Neil helped us to disembark, and my dad and I then remained on the jetty and watched as the floatplane effortlessly as-

cended once again into the sky over Taupo, tipping a wing at us in goodbye. I caught Dad's eye, and we did not need to speak.

What an exceptional way to create vivid visual memories of some of New Zealand's most stunning scenery. Unforgettable. GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Nickname - The Great Lake Population - 34,100 Area - 6,970 km2 Main reason to visit: The Lake and outdoor pursuits Top attraction: Did we mention the Lake?

Fun fact: There are hidden thermal pools on the lakeside

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 75

Rotorua

ROTORUA

Rotorua Geothermal Field IMAGE: Chris McLennan / Tourism New Zealand

Travelling in STYLE

by Hector Fraser Having promised my wife that we would be travelling in style I was impressed when our private, sparkling white limousine glided up to us outside Auckland Airport. Hannah was all smiles at the sight of the luxurious transport I had secretly arranged; guess I couldn’t keep my secret any longer!

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quizit Limousines and Tours offer sophisticated and personalised trips, and after reading many outstanding Trip Advisor reviews and seeing enticing images, I had not hesitated to book in. Our first impressions of the limousine were excellent ones; very comfortable and stylish as expected and our driver Anne, was both professional and friendly. Settled into the spacious seating, we relaxed and enjoyed the scenery as we started our journey south.

The highlight of the day was our stop at Hobbiton. My wife, in particular, loves the books, the characters, and the films. I was particularly looking forward to visiting the Green Dragon pub and making the most of not needing to drive. It was a stunning day for wandering around the extensive and fascinating site on a two-hour tour. It felt surreal to be at The Shire, the home of so many beloved characters. We worked up a good thirst and enjoyed the local Southfarthing beer that tasted particularly refreshing in the afternoon sun.

Without feeling rushed or hurried, our limousine was waiting for us as we meandered out of Hobbiton, and we continued our journey. Listening to Anne through the limo's PA system was both interesting and

Relax‌

entertaining. Obviously very knowledgeable about New Zealand, Anne was able to satisfy our curiosity about the surrounding scenery and landmarks. Anne's personality shone through and made her commentary all the more enjoyable.

With some careful consideration and help from our wonderful guide, we finalised our itinerary for the following days, and upon arriving in Rotorua, we checked into the stunning Treetops Lodge and Estate for three nights. We were instantly in love with our surroundings and were happy to chill out for the evening and soak up the atmosphere. It

had been a long day, and remote and peaceful Treetops provided the perfect setting for a relaxing dinner and evening.

The following morning, Brian from Xquizit arrived at the Lodge behind the wheel of a spacious Mercedes Sprinter; we were off for an exciting day of exploring the surrounding area. The weather was beautiful, so our objective was to get outside and visit thermal sites in Rotorua. Te Puia a 60-hectare thermal wonderland was our destination. What an amazing place; boardwalks and walkways threading their way through and around over 500 natural geothermal wonders,

including the world-famous Pohutu Geyser which made its presence known!

Our personal limousine service was ready and waiting to take us on to our next destination: the Polynesian Spa – by all accounts one of the best spas in Australasia.

Hannah and I had booked in for the "Deluxe Package" and anticipated an evening of absolute indulgence. We were impressed by the standard of the treatments we received; a relaxing massage followed by a purifying mud wrap (a unique experience for me!).

We ended our Spa experience by spending a peaceful hour in a private pool. The setting was romantic and it was lovely to have time to rest and relax.

Fully refreshed from our Spa experience we were able to jump straight into "our" patiently waiting limousine to travel the short distance back to Treetops in style. Dinner at Treetops was again excellent; a relaxing meal and good wine were the perfect end to a perfect day in Rotorua.

The Mercedes Sprinter was our vehicle of choice for our short drive to Lake Tarawera

the following morning. I particularly enjoyed being driven as it afforded me the time to appreciate the gorgeous scenery. That afternoon we met John from Cruise and Fish Rotorua, who took us out for a half day's fishing on the lake. Our time on the water was one of the highlights of the trip for me; the sun was shining, and best of all I managed to catch a couple of impressive rainbow trout.

We spent our last night of indulgence at Treetops chatting about the things we had seen and done in the last couple of days; we concluded that there is so much to see and do in and around Rotorua we needed to pay another visit in the near future and Xquizit would be our first choice for getting around.

Xquizit had indeed made our visit a unique and luxurious one. Each day, according to our requirements, our friendly and professional drivers were there for us attending to our every need. Their vehicles are exceptional, and our personally tailored tour was fantastic. As the name of the company suggests, their service and quality is nothing short of 'Xquizit'. GTNZ

The Polynesian Spa, overlooking Lake Rotorua

78 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

DID YOU KNOW? Nickname - NZ’s coolest hot spot Population - 68,900 Area - 2,615 km2 Main reasons to visit:

Geothermal activity, Maori culture and mountain biking Top attraction: Geothermal Parks Fun fact: The International Mountain Biking Association has awarded Rotorua their prestigious goldlevel ride centre status

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FREEFALL XTREME Learn to fly with New Zealand’s only body flying experience! The team will suit you up and give you some training before escorting you out onto our 12m inflated flight deck - with winds powering up at 200kmph you will be held up at 3m for a minute and a half to experience the sensation of a skydive freefall – plenty of time for you to control your flight and have some fun with it. As a bonus you will find out how much skin you really have on your face and we throw in a new hair style free of charge!

AGROJET A little Ferrari on water, Agrojet accelerates from 0 -100 kmph in four seconds!

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Eastland

EASTLAND

Eastern ESCAPE Bags packed - CHECK- togs, towel, sunscreen, hat and jandals packed - CHECK - downloaded the official app - OUT EAST - this works offline so can use this OUT EAST - CHECK. I have decided to take a few days to drive, not as fast as the one hour flight from Auckland or Wellington but certainly well worth the time to do so, once you go OUT EAST you will be planning your next trip.

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y drive through the scenic SH38 takes me to Lake Waikaremoana, a beautiful landlocked fresh water lake set amongst high ranges covered in lush green vegetation, the sounds of birds ringing out from within. My stop here allows me to take one of the walks within these breath-taking surroundings, not quite time to do a spot of fishing for trout but that is planned for a return trip in the future.

Travelling along SH38 towards Wairoa the views are amazing and the farms along the way show rural New Zealand, isolation, interesting characters and plenty of sheep. Wairoa city is a riverside town centrally located between Gisborne and Napier. It is the gateway to the Te Urewera Rainforest Route. I take SH2 towards Gisborne and decide that a turn off to Mahia Peninsula is a good stop for lunch.

Mahia is a unique peninsula joined to the mainland by a sandy isthmus. Stunningly beautiful beaches, plus surf, crayfish, rugged hills, pasture, fishing and holiday baches make it a coastal beach lover’s dream.

Lunch done and I’m back on the road. About 20 minutes from the Mahia Peninsula turnoff, I find Morere Hot Springs - these therapeutic mineral hot springs are just the thing for the body. I decide to walk the Nikau forest trail first (to walk off lunch) and then take a relaxing dip.

The drive towards Gisborne is spectacular and I stop at the lookout to capture the amazing scenery looking out over the city - my destination for the evening. Then a quick stop to check-in at my accommodation for the night at one of the many hotels, motels, B&B’s or backpackers in Gisborne. Then I’m off to enjoy a local wine at the Gisborne Wine Centre located in the Inner Harbour overlooking the waterfront; wine-tasting is available if you are not sure what exactly you want in the first instance. Dinner is a bite to eat at one of the many eateries on offer in the city, all of which are within walking distance of most of the local hotels and motels.

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Dive Tatapouri: Snorkel and swim with stingrays

Getting up early to make the most of the day I head out to Wainui Beach to sit and watch the first sunrise in the world over the ocean. This beach has the most beautiful golden sand, so off with the jandals to walk the beach with a handful of other people and their four legged friends. After working up an appetite it’s a quick stop for a coffee and breakfast before I have to meet up with one of the local surf guides for my surf lesson. Gisborne has seven recognised surf breaks and is home to some famous surf legends who grew up around the area, surfing as youngsters. Easy when it is right on your doorstep! I do not think I will be entering any surf competitions just yet but it is great fun.

The afternoon’s activity is also ocean based.

Dive Tatapouri is located just 15 minutes from Gisborne city on SH35. Here I get to interact with wild stingrays, eagle rays and other reef dwellers. We are given fishing waders to wear, then we walk out over the reef with the guide. Lots of little fish are at our feet in minutes, followed by graceful eagle rays and the big short tailed stingrays. This thrilling activity is a must do and unique in New Zealand. It is great for all ages.

From Tatapouri I decide to continue on SH35 to Tolaga Bay for the night, but if you are pushed for time take SH2 through the Waioeka George to Opotiki. This offers 82 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

scenery at its best and lots of places to stop and see natural waterfalls and historic bridges to break up the drive.

Back to the coast and Tolaga Bay, a coastal rural township with history back to Captain Cook now entwined with Maori history and culture. My morning starts with a walk down the long, 600 metre historic wharf. If I had time I would have liked to have taken the walk to Cooks Cove - this will be on my list for next time. The township has some great little eateries and a petrol station so make sure you gas up here before heading around the coast.

As I drive up the coast I am so glad that I have come off the beaten track - coastal views, history and culture all around me.

Stops that are worth a mention are the historic buildings and wharf at Tokomaru Bay, the Tiki Tiki church built as a tribute to those who fell in WW1 with stained glass windows and a carved altar and pulpit, then out to the most easterly point in the world where the East Cape Lighthouse is situated. This is another great viewing point for a morning sunrise. Amongst all this are the interesting characters that I met along the way – the kids getting to school on a horse bare back, the local Ruatoria pies or just a wave from the guy on the side of the road herding the cattle along the road. The accommodation with locals, sharing their stories and hospitality.

On past the cape and Hicks Bay and past beautiful scenic coves and beaches on the northern side of the cape. My final destination is Opotiki, the northern gateway to the East Cape. This is where the Motu Trails hosts the Pakihi Track a stunningly beautiful mountain bike trail which offers the easy Dunes trail that starts in the centre of Opotiki or the more exciting main trail through the native bush, for those that want more of an adrenaline rush.

As I made the final journey around the coastal SH35 road towards Opotiki, with New Zealand’s largest Pohutukawa tree, magnificent beaches and coves, I truly believed I found one of the most beautiful places in New Zealand – OUT EAST GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Nickname - Gizzy Population - 35,400 Area - 580 km2 Main reason to visit: Surf Beaches Top attraction: Rhythm and Vines festival Fun fact: Gisborne is the first place in the world to see the sunrise

Taranaki

TARANAKI

IMAGE: Patrick Reynolds

TRANSFORMING minds

by Virginia Winder Fat, thin, fat thin, fat, thin. Walking past the soaring shiny façade of New Plymouth’s justopened $11.5 million Len Lye Centre is like coming face to face with a giant fun house mirror.

The ripples of gleaming metal are the appropriate outer skin of a temple to a man fascinated by shiny metal and how it moves and bends.

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ew Zealand’s first gallery dedicated to a single artist is an example of contemporary destination architecture and yet it also reflects the old. Alongside the flattering and not-so-pleasant view of myself is a mirror image of the two-storey Whitehart Hotel, built in 1886.

In the reflection are people with cameras snapping photos of the centre, designed by architect Andrew Patterson. It’s a popular subject and has been popping up in my Facebook feed for weeks now.

Through the front doors, we – I’ve brought my 19-year-old son on this jaunt – get friendly welcomes from staff members wearing shirts covered with what look like scribbles. This pattern is derived from a night of photographing the shapes

made by the 45-metre-tall Lye-designed Wind Wand that graces New Plymouth’s foreshore. The doodles have strong links with some of Lye’s paintings, drawings and direct method film-making for which he drew and scratched on celluloid.

Through the gift shop is an avenue of stunning architecture, with a powerful feeling of entering a cathedral.

The soaring ripples continue on the inside, but are grey concrete with nooks perfect for a child’s game of hide ‘n seek.

A girl wearing a giraffe onesie slips into a concrete fold and jumps out to surprise her family. My teenager is much more dignified, but does feel compelled to explore one of the hideaways and looks through a window that shows a distorted reflection of the Whitehart. We also enter

Experience the Len Lye Centre at the Govett-Brewster New Zealand’s premier example of destination architecture linked to contemporary art

govettbrewster.com

42 Queen Street New Plymouth 4342 Aotearoa New Zealand www.gotravelnewzealand.com 85

IMAGE: Glen Jeffery

the new theatre, a steep affair with 62 red seats. We’ve just missed a showing of Len Lye’s Colour Box, which plays every day at 1pm. It’s appropriate that there’s a cinema at the heart of this new centre because this and the adjoining Govett-Brewster Art Gallery is the site of the old Regent Theatre.

Just before entering the Large Works gallery, we chat with a host about some of the reactions he’s had from people seeing the Four Fountains exhibition for the first time.

“I’ve seen people come around the corner and they’ve gone ‘oh my God’”. It’s the big one that floors people, he says.

The new work created by the Len Lye Foundation is 8 metres tall and its rushing silver steel fronds wouldn’t be out of place in the centre of Pukekura Park’s fountain lake.

There’s a link with that man-made water fountain and the Len Lye Centre; both were venomously opposed by many people in the New Plymouth district. So was the Wind Wand (now an icon), Puke Ariki (the 86 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

city’s awarding-wining library, museum and i-Site), the aquatic centre and even the TSB Community Stadium. The list is long. But visionary leaders in the community and New Plymouth District Council, plus a commitment to raise the entire $11.5 million for the Len Lye Centre from external sources, have made the dream a reality.

Back to Four Fountains, where the kinetic sculptures slow dance for visitors. The smallest, called Fountain I (1 metre tall) is lit in blue; Fountain II (2.74 metres) is illuminated green, and Fountain III (4 metres tall) glows orange-red, resembling the plant cordyline “Red Fountain”. Fountain IV reaches the ceiling and is so big that when standing beneath it we have to bend our whole bodies back to take it all in. Then it’s up another avenue of soaring architecture, past the learning centre for the district’s school children and on to the Main Exhibition gallery – and noise. Len Lye’s Jam Session is aptly named. In the centre of the room are three partitions. The first constantly shows two

movies by the film pioneer – Free Radicals (1958, revised in 1979) and Swinging the Lambeth Walk (1939).

In front of the next partition, the sculpture called Universe bounds and bongs. This oval of steel rolls and bounces, while a wooden ball hanging from elastic hits it at random intervals to create a noise a young boy once described as sounding like the universe.

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 104, 127 Area - 7528 km2 Main reason to visit: Egmont National Park Top attractions: Mount Taranaki & the new Len Lye Centre Fun fact: Mount Taranaki, a near-perfect cone, last erupted in the mid-18th century

Christchurch-born Lye was so taken by this description he gave the sculpture that name. On the other side, in front of a giant photo of the artist with the kinetic sculpture Grass, is the real thing in motion. Delicate tendrils of steel create a quiet tinkling as the plinth they sprout from slowly seesaws.

Lye intended Grass to be played to music, so visitors can join the Jam Session by putting on headphones. One has the Miles Davis Quartet playing My Funny Valentine and the other plays music by Erik Satie from 1888.

On the walls around the room are doodles, sketches, paintings and photograms

by Lye, who first had an exhibition at the adjoining Govett-Brewster Art Gallery in 1977. He called it the “swingiest art gallery of the antipodes”.

Just before his death in 1980, Lye and his supporters established the Len Lye Foundation, to which he gifted his entire collection of works.

Many of his designs have yet to be made, but there is a commitment by the foundation, the University of Canterbury and Lye’s friend and champion, John Matthews, to continue making those artworks.

There are also many artworks not by Len Lye in the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery collection and an exhibition of some of these works has been curated by gallery director Simon Reece and called Our Hearts of Darkness.

On show are Ann Shelton’s photographic work of “lunatic asylum” Seacliff, where Janet Frame was kept; Colin McCahon’s powerful triptych, Parihaka (1972), and Ngahina Hohaia’s symbolic cloak made of metal chains – and more.

The only entity missing from this exhibition is the highly sexual Lye kinetic sculpture Trilogy: A Flip and Two Twisters. The old work has been retired and a revamped version has been playing up, so has gone back to the workshop. It should be back in October. Trilogy was my first-ever introduction to the thrill of Lye’s work back in 1977. It’s twisting, crashing, thrashing steel excited and frightened me in equal parts and so Lye’s work became part of my childhood background.

Same for the teenager, who has grown up visiting the Govett Brewster Art Gallery.

Today, after lunch at the adjoining Monica’s Eatery, he’s quietly taken in everything on offer. “I found it quite interesting – I loved the architecture. I also loved the eclectic art on show”. We’ll both be back. GTNZ

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Hawkes Bay

HAWKES BAY

Bay Heliwork FLIGHT OF FANCY

by Amy Shanks I’m not the biggest fan of heights - climbing a ladder or ascending Te Mata Peak gives me the shivers, so putting my name forward for a helicopter tour seemed, at the time, a little risky…

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week after insisting I was the woman for the job, I found myself standing outside Bay Heliwork in Hill Rd, Hastings. Clambering inelegantly from my ride to the helipad, an anxious feeling rose from the pit of my stomach, mingling uncomfortably with a roll I had scoffed on the way. This was to be my maiden flight in a helicopter, and I was completely unaware of what to expect.

The sky was a blanket of clear blue as far as the eye could see - interrupted only by thin wisps of white cloud drifting lazily by. It was at that moment I realised this "uneasy'' feeling wasn't nervousness but excitement - the kind you feel like a child on Christmas Eve. With that in mind, I stepped confidently through the hangar door where pilot Matt Wilson greeted me with an outstretched hand and 1000-watt smile. He introduced co-pilot Stephen Bryant, who would be joining us for the flight, before gesturing for us to follow him into a cavernous hangar containing two helicopters.

I was escorted into a rear passenger seat where I was eager to get hold of the headphones - for no other reason than I had seen people wear them in films. Turns out, I didn't look quite as fantastic as envisaged. Matt and Stephen slid into their seats bringing the helicopter to life with a shudder, like a giant waking from its slumber. The propellers whirred more vigorously and with that there was lift-off. Steadily we climbed higher and higher over orchards, farmland and houses, where ant-sized people scurried about. This was a whole new perspective on the world; pint-sized clothes were hung out to dry, crystal clear swimming pools dotted the landscape and cattle grazed lazily on the patchwork quilt of paddocks.

Before our eyes, green pastures turned to stretches of sand and cool blue ocean.

We had arrived at Cape Kidnappers, and the view was breath-taking. Waves broke on jagged rocks at the foot of towering cliffs and seaweed made shadows under the surface.

A golf green stood out as an oasis along the changeable coastline. “We took some people out last week and you could see stingrays in the shallows. There were about five or so sharks behind them”, said Matt, his voice cutting through the headset.

Even without the added intrigue of nature, there was so much to take in. We swooped

DID YOU KNOW? Maori name - Heretaunga Population - 159, 783 Area - 14, 111 km2 Main reason to visit: The region’s many award winning wineries Fun fact: Hawke’s Bay is world renown for its 1930’s Art Deco, Spanish Mission and Stripped Classical architecture

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 89

Bay Heliwork

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past Ocean and Waimarama Beaches, where people were haphazardly scattered on bright-coloured beach towels.

Cutting inland we floated over Roy’s Hill and Gimblet Gravels - the area where some of Hawke’s Bay’s finest wines are grown. The meticulously pruned vines were uniform, like rows of tiny green soldiers standing at attention. Our journey back to base offered new excitement - as we hovered lower the picture beneath us came into focus; as though the water colour had become a fine oil painting. I watched as the down draught from the propellers parted the grass for our grand arrival - saddened at being back on solid ground.

As the helicopter cooled down Matt told us a little more about the vast range of services Bay Heliwork could provide from a short, 10-minute scenic experience, to a twin-city adventure, and a Cape Kidnappers coastal special.

“Pretty much anything is possible, within reason”, said Matt,“we can tailor it to people’s needs”.

Bay Heliwork is the only helicopter company in New Zealand that is allowed to land on a working port, which allows them to provide excursions for the many cruise ships that come to the Port of Napier.

What better way to explore spectacular Hawke’s Bay and its surrounds, than with a helicopter flight. A sightseeing flight over the picturesque coastline to a vineyard or over the stunning Kaweka and Kaimanawa Ranges, heli-fishing or heli-hunting... your itinerary is only governed by your imagination. GTNZ

Cape Kidnappers

Marlborough

MARLBOROUGH

IMAGES: Wilderness Guides

QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK Let’s be honest, most people are content to take a walk, go for a bike ride or perhaps enjoy a leisurely kayak; any one of these activities is challenging enough and a great way to spend a day. But we thought, why just choose one of the above when we can do it all!

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n the Marlborough Sounds, at the north eastern tip of New Zealand’s South Island, it’s made very easy for visitors to experience all these adventures along the famous Queen Charlotte Track.

The 70km dual purpose walk and bike trail is accessed by boat from the charming little maritime village of Picton (population around 4800). It traverses the spine of the sunken river valleys of the Marlborough Sounds between two bodies of water – the Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru Sounds – taking in both majestic ridgeline views and picturesque coastal scenes along the way.

We arrived by train, having caught the Tranz Coastal service from Christchurch. Others take the Interislander or BlueBridge ferry service or Soundsair from Wellington across Cook Strait, straight into Picton, which is the starting point for the trip. Or you can fly direct from Auckland to Blenheim, not far from Picton and the home of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

Whichever way you arrive, waiting for you is an adventure in one of New Zealand’s best-loved nature playgrounds. According to Picton locals, some New Zealanders think of it only as the gateway to the South Island.

Gateway it may be – but more importantly it’s the perfect stepping point to the vast waterways of the Marlborough Sounds.

We booked with Picton-based adventure outfitters Wilderness Guides, run by long time locals Juliet and Steve Gibbons, who offer a three-day adventure called the Marlborough Sounds Hike Bike Kayak. They made all our arrangements and briefed us for the trip plus we opted to have a guide with us

for the first day so we could learn about the area before continuing on our own.

After a hearty breakfast (and essential coffee-fix) in Picton, we boarded the boat with our guide and travelled to Ship Cove, starting point for the Queen Charlotte Track. It's a stunning trip, and we were lucky to see a pod of playful dolphins on the way – a good omen, according to the boat’s skipper.

Ship Cove is a pretty special place. As well as being a place of great significance for local Maori, English explorer Captain James Cook used this sheltered little bay as his base while he explored the South Pacific back in the

18th Century. This scenic and historic reserve remains much as it was when Cook sailed in more than 245 years prior. There he found fresh water, strong timbers and also investigated the potential medicinal properties of the nearby forest. History has it that Cook prepared a drink high in Vitamin C out of the twigs, leaves and bark of the New Zealand Rimu tree, to combat scurvy amongst his sailors. It was a case of what didn't kill you, cured you as it was either drink it or receive a flogging.

TO PAGE 97

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 45,600 Area - 12,484km2 Main reason to visit:

The many excellent wineries Top attraction: Marlborough Sounds Fun fact: 75% of New Zealand wine is produced in the Marlborough region

Induction lesson by Wilderness Guides

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Picturesque relaxation at Queen Charlotte Sound

E x p e r i e n c e t h e be a ut y o f t h e

QUEEN CHARLOTTE SOUND in M arlborough Ne w Zeal and

E s cap e to th e nat ural beauty and tranquillity of the M arlborough Sounds and e nj oy the h os pit al it y o f P unga Cove and Fur neax Lodg e. B oth re sor ts of fe r a ra n ge of acco mmodat i o n options to suit all budgets and are on th e route of th e i c o n ic Qu e en Ch arlot t e Track. Hike, m ountain bike, swim with dolph ins, dive s u n ke n ships , or jus t k i ck back and relax with us.

C on t a c t u s today to enq uire about our specials and p ackag es

Fortunately for us, there was no flogging to be done by our guide, but it was time for us to begin! The first day’s walk is around five hours and begins with a steady (steep!) climb out of the bay. At the top, if you pause to admire the view (and to catch your breath), on a clear day you can see all the way to the North Island of New Zealand. The rest of the day's walk is relatively easy through coastal beech forest with glimpses of beautiful blue waters beyond. At day's end, we caught the water taxi from Furneaux Lodge’s jetty across Endeavour Inlet to Punga Cove.

Finally, it was time to rest our feet and enjoy a glass of Marlborough’s finest...

NZ Tui

Our bikes magically arrived the following morning, again by water taxi, and with not too much procrastinating, it was time for us to begin the most challenging day of the trip. Most ride the track between Punga Cove and Portage Bay but thanks to the flexibility of the Queen Charlotte, there is also an easier option to ride the scenic Kenepuru Road.

We steeled our resolve and took the track option – it was tough going but totally exhilarating as well. At one stage I glanced to the left and could see Queen Charlotte Sound with its forest-clad hills and deep blue waters; I glanced to the right, and there were the turquoise tides of the Kenepuru. And here we were riding the ridgeline in between. Awesome, awe-inspiring; the superlatives kept flowing (in between puffing and pushing the bikes up the steepest of hills).

NZ Robin

After a night in Portage Bay at the hotel (we went for the glamping option, but you can also camp or stay in the backpackers), it was time for the final part of our journey. Having had a full safety briefing in Picton before the trip departed, our kayak simply arrived by water taxi with all the required equipment enabling us to paddle independently back to Picton.

There were plenty of sights to see including New Zealand fur seals on a number of the points and even a little blue penguin from a distance. No dolphins today but apparently it's not uncommon to have close encounters with these marine mammals as well. And it was a great change to work out the upper body as my legs had done enough by now.

NZ Fur Seal

Kayaking in the Marlborough Sounds is truly an amazing experience with so many sheltered bays and coves beckoning the paddler to explore – the only trouble is we were left wanting more.

A day just wasn’t enough… So we are now planning our next visit. GTNZ

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 97

Kaikoura

KAIKOURA

White faced heron pied shag, South Bay IMAGES: Ailsa Howard

A remarkable MARINE WONDERLAND

by Teri Sonal Kaikoura – where the mountains meet the sea. As a long-time local, I feel blessed to live here in nature’s paradise. From the time I wake up in the morning till I go to bed at night, I enjoy my life here. The land and ocean is rich in animal life - at times I’m late for work because I have parked up somewhere along the coast, and am watching the dolphins jumping close to shore.

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ut it is not just the whales and dolphins that our town is known for, that intrigue me. First light sees the smaller birds in the trees outside my window, waiting for the day to begin. I like to sit outside to have my breakfast and enjoy their show. After that, I make a beeline to the Kaikoura Peninsula, going from South Bay to do the easy, but sometimes steep walk.

Over the years I have taken my pre-school grandchildren and nieces and nephews up to the top of the hill, and played at being pirates in the imaginary boat. On the way, you can look out over the bay and seen the reef herons, and watch the hustle and bustle of tourists and locals going fishing, or bobbing around on kayaks.

I am always hopeful of seeing a kingfisher when wandering (I've noticed if you find

one, there's always another near by). I just love this bird with its interesting shape and colourful plumage.

As the children get older and I feel I need to tire them out, to get some peace later in the day, we do the whole walk. We take time to look at the predator-proof fence that residents have supported. It brings back for me memories of feeding the Titi Hutton’s Shearwater at the first translocation. This special bird nests only in Kaikoura – nowhere else in the world! We have only two natural sites, both being in the snow-capped mountain area. These last remaining rugged sites are extremely vulnerable to natural disaster (it is only in the last 100 years these birds have retreated so high). Other colonies were wiped out by introduced predators such as pigs, goats, rats and weasels. The predator-proof fence is a future hope for increasing the breeding area of this special bird.

Sometimes we return to South Bay by walking around the tidal area, this shore walk is extremely interesting (check the tides first if you do this). I often come across blue penguin among the rocks as we clamber along.

If you don’t see them then, in the evenings over summer you can join a guided tour.

Visit the Kaikoura i-site to see if there is one going at sunset.

Always, always, we see seals. My grandchildren know not to go between, what seems to them to be a very large animal, and the sea. Be careful, as they look like a rock when sleeping, and it's possible to step on one that’s gone unnoticed.

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 3, 860 Area - 2, 046 km2 Main reason to visit: Fishing and sea life Top attraction: Marine mammals Fun fact: In Maori legend, Maui placed his foot on Kaikoura to steady himself while he “fished-up” the North Island.

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Children are wonderful – they see the hidden-away critters much faster than I do. They naturally rummage among the seaweed and in rock pools. Me, I see the obvious. When we sit to eat, the gulls come flying, hoping for a treat. I encourage the children to see if they can tell the black billed gull from the red billed. I find their different approach to chick rearing intriguing - the black billed gulls are so caring and helpful to each other, while the red billed gulls are indifferent, even callous at times, attacking others’ chicks that stray into their territory.

We return home tired but happy – me, extremely so. The children play outside and stir up the insects for the fantails who maximise their energetic presence. It’s a joy to watch.

Kaikoura is a spectacular place to experience. You can go out with local businesses and view the deep ocean trench and all the wonders it holds. These companies support our local people and workers.

The albatross, expert in gliding in the air’s currents, can be seen offshore, and are a highlight. My favourite Cetacean is the sperm whale, who are found closer to land here, than anywhere else in the world. A close second favourite is the petite Hectors dolphin, which can be seen if you are extremely lucky, when you return inshore. GTNZ

Kingfishers on the Esplanade

Spotted Shags

2014

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Swimming with and watching Kaikoura’s Dusky Dolphins!

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Our café on the beachfront is the perfect setting to enjoy breakfast, lunch, all day snacks and delicious OZONE coffee. There’s Free WiFi and plenty of parking too.

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5 tours in 1 LLAMA TREKKING IN KAIKOURA An unforgettable experience by Mary Westinghouse (UK) Of all the things we did in New Zealand, walking with a llama turned out to be one of the most memorable. Llama are truly amazing creatures. More intelligent than I expected, with a shrewd and clever character.

We chose a Half-Day Kaikoura Bay Llama Trek. At the start, we were introduced to the basics of llama handling; given our own llama (mine was called Legend); then we set off on the most amazing walk I have ever experienced.

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Wacky Stays

Our knowledgeable guide answered all our questions, helped us understand what the llama were thinking and explained why they react to certain situations.

You soon realize that sharing quality time with a completely different animal is an experience in its own right.

But enough of the llama, the trek itself was amazing too. It is described as a ‘five tours in one’ experience and was by far the best value of all the tours we experienced in New Zealand.

The constant view of the Kaikoura mountain ranges was spectacular. The walk follows Kaikoura Bay and its beaches. We stopped at the fascinating Fyffe House Whalers Museum, and enjoyed a picnic with delicious homemade cake and drink. We finished at the Kaikoura Peninsular seal colony where about twenty seals were basking in the sun.

At the end of the trek we were given a souvenir postcard with our llama on it and a voucher for free entry to the Kaikoura Farm Park (which we visited the next day).

I now check if there is Llama Trekking wherever I travel.

Book your own llama trekking experience by visiting www.llamatrekking.co.nz

www.wackystays.co.nz

Canterbury

CANTERBURY

ESCAPE to Terrace Downs Resort

by Sara Litchfield It is known as the High Country, and it is beautiful. My welcome to Terrace Downs Resort, Canterbury’s premier resort, perfectly positioned at the gateway to the South Island, close to majestic Mt Hutt yet only an hour from the city, is unparalleled.

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he warm familiarity with which I'm greeted evokes the sense that I've arrived at a home-away-fromhome; the villa caters to my every comfort and the views are spectacular. Hailing from the Queenstown Lakes region, I'm no stranger to beauty, but the High Country here has an ethereal quality that secures it a spot amongst the country's greatest landscapes.

Once settled in, I'm spoilt for choice regarding how to spend my time. A jetboat ride from Discovery Jet is offered in the nearby Rakaia Gorge, dramatic cliffs and crystal waters making it more than just a thrilling spin. Meanwhile, a range of scenic helicopter flights from Mt Hutt Helicopters can be arranged, with mountain and glacier landings their highlight. There is also more than enough to keep you entertained in the resort itself and I try my hand at clay bird shooting, my first experience with a shotgun made fun and rewarding by my instructor from Newzengland Ltd. I handle a couple of different guns and types of pellet, thrilled to hit my first target and enjoy the fabled beginner's luck.

Archery is next on my agenda, handily enough offered on the clay bird site as a part of Newzengland's repertoire. I receive expert training from Vera in the art of drawing a bow, and if I don't hit a bull’s-eye, at least I come close, and don't have to spend too much time searching for lost arrows in the sun-dappled woods. The setting for the activities steals my breath away; you can easily imagine yourself in another world or an earlier time, expecting Robin Hood to ride by at any moment. On which note, for equestrian lovers and those who want to give it a try, horse riding is also on offer, a trek the perfect way to soak up the surroundings.

I later enjoy a golf lesson with resident expert and coach, Jonathan, who patiently teaches me chipping on the practice green and prevents me from becoming too distracted by the view. A golf cart tour allows me to investigate the grounds, the highlight being the view of the gorge falling away under the mountains from the sixteenth hole. It’s no wonder this place is regarded as a prime wedding destination, with the opportunity for unforgettable moments to be captured in such scenery. There are several lovely ceremony sites allowing for an outdoor service with a difference, but indoors remains an attractive proposition, the handsome Hunter’s Restaurant catering for parties of over a hundred.

At my dinner there, the maitre d’ puts it quite simply. He wants guests to walk

through the doors of Hunter's and think, ‘Wow.' He wants them to leave after their evening with that first impression firmly upheld in every aspect. I can't imagine he's often disappointed. From the branched chandeliers to the centrepiece fireplace, an elegant yet intimate space invites diners to set high expectations for the coming meal.

Custom-made, oak tables are framed by panoramic vistas of the golf course and mountain backdrop, and the menu is the epitome of fine-dining, combining familiar fare with fusion elements that take it to another level. The influence of the Head Chef, from Sri Lanka, and the Resort Manager, from Japan, can be detected in the treatment of the fresh, locally-sourced ingredients. The entire dining experience is designed to delight all five senses, and it succeeds beautifully, with wines hand-picked to complement the cuisine.

Breakfast is as delicious as dinner, and I have the opportunity to chat to some members who have come to play a round. When

asked what they love about Terrace Downs Resort, smiles light their faces. They are quick to joke, but deadly serious about how much they enjoy playing here. The award-winning, championship course is challenging, the wind that gives Windwhistle its name making things interesting at times, and the design is one to delight the most seasoned of golfers. The driving range, located by the rugby pitch, and the practice putting green aren’t aspects you find so well-maintained at other courses around the country, and despite their familiarity with them, the views are still such that they draw comment. It’s obvious why members and visitors alike keep coming back.

Everything is an experience, from coffee in the café, where clubhouse camaraderie is much in evidence, to exploring the powder rooms, where a bride's every wish might be met. The gilded, but not overstated, French décor provides the perfect surroundings for preparation and pictures.

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 105

The dining room, Terrace Downs Resort

While I'm here, I take the chance to delve further into the region and visit Lake Coleridge. The scenic drive takes you through woods and cross country, revealing hidden mountain ranges reflected in small lakes before you reach the remote, wild beach at Coleridge's shore. I'm perfectly alone and capture some brilliant shots of the sunset, but it's a welcome return to the retreat and a seat by the fire in Hunter's, a glass of Marlborough Pinot Noir matched with a delicate venison starter and perfectly-cooked pork belly on a bed of kumara mash. My sweet tooth is appeased by a melt-in-the-mouth tiramisu and my day rounded off with a premium Porto Rosso.

The people who run this resort are passionate about it and it shows. Effort is evident around the clock to ensure guests have nothing to worry about save enjoying themselves and their surroundings. Many of the staff reside at the resort, and are intimate with its inner workings as well as knowledgeable about the local area. It's a joy to talk to employees who have come from all over and find out what's attracted them to this rural paradise, their happiness at having made Terrace Downs Resort their home influencing the mood of the entire resort.

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Despite being easy to reach (only an hour from Christchurch, half an hour from Methven), the surroundings engender the feeling you're a million miles away from any form of hustle and bustle. Regardless of your choice of activity, you can lose yourself in the landscape and relaxation quickly becomes second nature. This serenity is never more in evidence than at the spa, which is housed in its own chalet on the grounds. I'm treated to a two-hour massage and facial with Laura, who's been a masseuse for over ten years, six of them spent at Terrace Downs Resort. The combination of expertly applied pressure and soothing ambience has me floating away.

All too soon, it’s time to leave. A breathtaking drive back south awaits, but I find myself wondering when I can find an excuse to come back. Reflecting on my stay, while you might say that excellence and quality are the hallmarks of any luxury retreat, what raised Terrace Downs Resort above the bar was the consideration and care that coloured my stay. There is an undisguised commitment to making your visit special – whether it be overnight as a chalet guest, during the day as a golf-club member or visiting player, for a weekend as part of a wedding party, or purely for the evening as a diner. Terrace

Downs Resort combines luxury with warmth, character and charm. A dream location for a wedding and my first choice for a weekend away, I know this place will stay with me for a long time to come. Take my advice, and go and discover it for yourself. GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Maori name - Waitaha Population - 539, 436 Area - 45, 346 km2 Main reason to visit: Coast and mountain experiences Top attraction: Vibrant new Christchurch Interesting fact: Christchurch is New Zealand’s fastest changing city, in the midst of an exciting rebuild, post the 2011 earthquake

Mountain Magic at Terrace Downs Resort

Make your next escape one you’ll never forget! Enjoy luxury accommodation with spectacular views, a round of golf on one of New Zealand’s top courses, and a delicious meal in a rustically luxurious clubhouse. Enhance your stay with exciting activities ranging from horseback riding to sky diving, and pamper yourself in the indulgent day spa.

Only one hour from Christchurch, Terrace Downs has so much to offer, and there’s something for everyone! Contact us today to plan your escape.

623 Coleridge Road, Windwhistle, Canterbury PHONE (03) 318 6943 • info@terracedowns.co.nz

www.terracedowns.co.nz

Auckland Only one hour from Christchurch airport.

Terrace Downs

Wellington Christchurch

Akaroa

AKAROA

Peninsula PARADISE

by J Martin In October, our two couple group decided to spend our last four days of a month’s travel in New Zealand on Banks Peninsula.

We soon discovered that we had saved the best for last.

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canning the Akaroa.com website we saw we had a wide selection of activities to choose from and initially could not come to any amicable agreement.

A compromise was reached, and the two guys in our group decided to walk the Banks Peninsula Track while the girls would book in for a 24-hour package with Pohatu Penguins.

Conveniently, some of the tour's activities coincided with the Peninsula walk, and we planned to meet up with the guys on their second day.

Pohatu Penguins POHATU PLUNGE - NEW ZEALAND

Described as New Zealand's French Riviera, Akaroa sounded like a must-see, so we spent our first night in this charming township. The guys had already left on their walking adventure; taking a bus to their first night's accommodation. Our hotel looked out over the beautiful harbour with its backdrop of high peaks. We were not scheduled to leave on the Pohatu Package until midday the next day, so we spent a very enjoyable time the next morning checking out the shops, galleries and cafes of this delightful historic town.

After a relaxing lunch break, we travelled by 4WD van over a steep, narrow road with stunning views. Our guide was French and very friendly and informative. There was time to stop for photos and the views from the Akaroa Heads were dramatic. Dolphins were visible from where we stood on the high cliff tops; they looked miles away from our vantage point so high up above the turquoise sea.

POHATU MARINE RESERVE SEA KAYAKING AND 4WD NATURE SAFARIS Our next stop was a high pass, where overlooking the beautiful harbour our guide spoke knowledgeably of the geography of the area and brought to life the explosive history of the gigantic (extinct) volcano. We headed to the south-eastern bays of Banks Peninsula which are often referred to as the 'conservation bays' or more colloquially as 'the wild side'.

Almost all the residents here either actively participate in or are supportive of a large number of conservation projects to protect the unique biodiversity. We saw endemic insects such as the Banks Peninsula Tree Weta and were lucky enough to see a gecko in the same monitoring station.

Soon we are taken down to the Banks Peninsula Track bush walk. The native bush here is beautiful with its lush tree ferns and plenty of birdsong. A large wood pigeon unseen in a tree above suddenly took off with a whirring of wings to land clumsily in a tree not far away. The sunlight on the bird's plumage transformed it into an iridescent rainbow, and the beauty made us forgive it for the earlier commotion that had caused us to jump!

We were delighted to meet up with the guys at the first waterfall we encountered and enjoyed the rest of the walk down a beautiful steep-sided gully together. Just before we reached the valley floor, we discovered another waterfall and were able to climb in behind its beautiful curtain of water as it cascaded down in front of us.

• Guided Sea Kayaking • Evening 4wd penguin safaris • Scenic nature safaris • Pohatu Package Spend a night in the penguin colony with a 24 or 48 hour package including accommodation in the middle of the penguin colony

021 2469 556 · tours@pohatu.co.nz

WWW.POHATU.CO.NZ

We reached our accommodation to discover we had been given a delightfully cosy two room cottage not far from the beautiful beach. Our evening penguin tour was due to start at 6.30pm, so we decided upon an early dinner. A full electric range made preparing an early meal easy, and we enjoyed dining on the veranda overlooking the sea. After dinner, we strolled over to the landowners' house, where we were greeted by four very hungry lambs. As a van from Akaroa arrived with people for the evening penguin tour, there were sheep coming from all directions in anticipation of some food. We were presented with bottles of warm milk for the lambs and the sheep ate pellets out of our hands, a really neat experience. Up close sheep are inquisitive and friendly creatures.

We were reluctantly drawn away from the sheep by our guide who presented us with camouflage clothing for our penguin encounter. Of course, we just had to have our photo taken in our strange new uniforms.

Our guide continued to impress us with their knowledge as we learned of penguin conservation. The work the landowners and others have done to save the penguin colony is inspiring. The country is rugged and the thought of trapping predators, monitoring the penguins and surveying the population numbers over such terrain is pretty daunt110 Go Travel NZ 路 Spring 2015

ing. It is amazing to think this started as a private attempt to save penguins by just two people, who ultimately proved what was thought to be impossible could be done.

Next stop were the penguin nesting sites where we were allowed to take photos (no flash), of adults and chicks very close up you need to be quick before the nesting box lid goes down again. A yellow-eyed penguin arrived and walked up the hill right past our hide - he was completely oblivious to our presence, and we were spellbound by his.

A short walk along a narrow track found us overlooking little penguins (also known as little blue penguins) preening on the rocks far below. We viewed these through binoculars (supplied by the tour). Back at the hide we waited for the rest of the penguins to swim in, and a group did just before it got too dark to see; scrambling out and climbing onto the rocks to preen. We could hear penguin calls sounding out all around the bay as we walked back towards our accommodation.

The next morning was another glorious day and the guys talked us into sea kayaking.

Being a first timer, I was a bit nervous and was pleasantly surprised at how stable the kayaks were. Our guide pointed out penguins on the rocks we would have missed from any other vantage point. As it was nice

and calm, we kayaked some of the spectacular outer coast and explored several of the caves that were accessible via kayak. A pod of Hectors dolphins amused themselves for awhile by swimming around us. On the return journey, we passed a seal colony and were accompanied for several minutes by two friendly seals rolling and playing around us. To experience wildlife in their natural habitat was a privilege.

On shore, we said our goodbyes to our partners; we would not see them for a couple of days while they continued to walk the track. As we were driven back to Akaroa, we excitedly compared photos of our adventure and re-lived seeing the unique scenery and wildlife of this beautiful peninsula. GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 624 Area - 1, 765 km2 Main reason to visit: The charm of this historic French settlement Top attraction: Penguins & Hectors Dolphins Fun fact: Akaroa is formed in the remnants of an extinct volcano

Akaroa Harbour

NATIONAL WINNER ADNZ ARCHITECTURAL DESIGN

AWARDS 2014 - BEST COMMERCIAL INTERIOR

West Coast

WEST COAST

Whitewater RUSH

by Solana Pettus The Karamea River holds legendary status as one of the best rivers to raft in the world. There are seductive and fascinating tales written describing a place, deep in the wilderness of Kahurangi National Park. A place that is rugged, raw and beautiful, totally removed from the normal day-to-day; this was the adventure and inspiration that I was craving. This time it was my turn. I wanted to see and experience the river for myself.

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As we fly up the Karamea River, we stay low, and I'm totally enchanted by what I can see. It has that uniquely New Zealand landscape of

SUB - TROPICAL BUSH MEETS TOWERING MOUNTAINS AND CLEAR RIVERS

The Roaring Lion, the longest grade 5 river in New Zealand IMAGE: Ultimate Descents

W K

ith the children shipped off to their grandparents, it was time for me to join the rest of the team and travel to the small and remote town of Karamea on the West Coast. The drive up the Coast gives a real sense of how isolated this community is, and yet how that comes to be one of the big things that define the characters found living there. Meeting our chopper pilot and river guides reassured me that we were in good capable hands.

The team is from Ultimate Descents New Zealand (based in Murchison), and they are intimately familiar with the Karamea River and have a flawless safety record. For the

three day journey that lay ahead, both flying up the river and making our way out by river rafting, we were to be guided by some of the most experienced and highly skilled river rats in the country. When the journey that lies ahead includes some of the most technical grade five whitewater rafting in New Zealand, it's important to have confidence in your guides!

It has that uniquely New Zealand landscape of sub-tropical bush meets towering mountains and clear rivers. The river itself incessantly winds and rushes its way to the ocean. I notice that the river guides, scan

the river continuously, looking for any new hazards or changes to the river. This is a totally wild part of the country, and one should never underestimate and assume, or so it appears. It feels good to sit back, relax and enjoy a sensory intake of freedom!

The first day consists of some good training grounds, a few fairly grunty rapids followed by some drifting pools helps to engage my confidence in our team and what to expect. We're building a wonderful sense of camaraderie that occurs on these types of trips. When we aren’t reveling in the amazing landscape, we're laughing and www.gotravelnewzealand.com 113

Great place to set up camp

chatting about anything and everything. The whitewater, teaching us to trust the way we work (or not!), only resulting in laughter – no tears.

Making camp beside the river takes on a whole other pace. Guides get the fire going, and you get to make it as homely as you like, rope washing lines, and driftwood couches included. Yes, time to relax and enjoy a whiskey beside the fire where the evening meal is prepared in this rustic setting, but not without a lot of thought and culinary finesse from the crew. The food is divine, and it is inspiring to see it prepared on the fire, next to the natural beauty of a river.

During the night we hear Kiwi calling and in the morning the Kea wake us; the heartbeat of the river is constant. After a wholesome breakfast and good strong hot coffee, we load the rafts and set out to tackle the longest grade five rapid in New Zealand “The Roaring Lion”. The height of the river on the day dictates how much of this rapid we inevitably have to walk around (portage). I was thankful to not be rafting some of it; not just because it looked dangerous, but walking also gives me the chance to be face to face with the legendary house-sized boulders that have fallen into the river from the mountain range above. Coming out of the Roaring Lion, we know a huge obstacle is behind 114 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

us, but the journey is not over yet. More tributaries flow in, to join in their unrelenting search for the ocean, and along with the boulders from the mountain range, create more rapids to keep us on the job (accompanied by the occasional cuss word).

The last night, we set up camp with our amazing fire at centre stage. It’s the end of a big day, and I am happy to be fed yet another amazing meal followed by an exceptional banoffee pie (made with a good helping of theatrics and laughter). I feel tired and content, enjoying chatting around the fire and watching the stars. The sound of the river has become a constant companion.

The last day we have time to enjoy a cooked breakfast before we move on to what is now a familiar mode of travel. After a stunning stop at a big sweeping sandy beach, and a wee exploration up one of the tributaries, there is the final lower gorge. The river has now reached its full volume, and as it carves

through that last gorge, there is some serious whitewater inspiring me to perform and execute all the moves called for. I feel alive, present, connected and totally grateful to our legendary raft guide.

Wow, what a journey; whitewater, wilderness, laughter, campfires and now off for a well deserved beer. It feels reassuring to know that places like this still exist. There are many adventures to be had in this world, but I feel totally grateful to have had the opportunity to have been on this one. Stories I have read rate the Karamea as one of the best river rafting journeys in the world, and now I am proud to have my own story to share. The team at Ultimate Descents is the real deal, genuine Kiwi adventurers who love what they do, showing true capability and passion. Now I just need to make sure that my turn will come again on another West Coast Heli Rafting adventure! GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 32, 800 Area - 23, 276 km2 Main reason to visit: The Glaciers Top attraction: Franz Josef Glacier Fun fact: One of the only places in the world where rainforest meets glaciers

The smiles say it all

Professionally running rivers in the top of the South Island for over 30 years

Mackenzie & Waitaki

MACKENZIE & WAITAKI

The Alps to Ocean CYCLE TRAIL At a total length of just over 300km, The Alps to Ocean Cycle Trail (A2O) is the longest cycle trail in New Zealand. Winding its way from Aoraki Mt Cook all the way to the ocean and finishing up in the seaside town of Oamaru, an easy to intermediate grade, it is suitable for everyone - from grandparents to grandchildren. It takes an average of four to six days to cycle the trail in its entirety, but with so much to explore and experience on the way why would you rush?

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ore than a cycle trail, the A2O is 300km of stunning scenery, exciting landmarks, dining, shopping and adventure activities. There are plenty of opportunities to get off your bike and discover the region’s attractions. Hot springs, giant waterslides, wine-tastings, boutique shops, penguin tours, stargazing, and concerts are just a sample of the enjoyable diversions along the trail.

One of the greatest things about a cycle tour is that it can be enjoyed on almost any budget; from the basic backpacker level through to five-star luxury lodges. For those on a tight budget a money saver is to purchase your groceries in bulk at the start of your trip and carry them along in a support vehicle. Alternatively, if your budget allows, there are great options for dining out along the way; simply tailor your trail experience to suit your needs.

Another option is to join up on a supported tour run by one of the A2O Official Partner tour companies. These tours can be customized to a client’s particular needs, or simply joined as they are. Some of the companies also offer luggage transfer and pick up/drop off services, thus allowing you to cycle the trail without joining a tour.

For those wishing to experience the trail themselves without engaging the services of a tour company, a handy option is to make Oamaru your first stop. Oamaru is a cycle-friendly town with many businesses catering to the needs of trail riders. You can hire vans, bike trailers, child trailers and such - everything you need to make your tour a pleasure. Another option is to recruit a family member or friend (who’s keen for a holiday but doesn’t want to be on a bike) and make them your support driver. A support vehicle enables you to enjoy your ride knowing all your luggage and supplies will meet you at each stop off.

Taking on the role of support driver is ideal for those who would like to kick back and spend some quiet time fishing, walking the trail or even cycling back to meet the trail riders. With the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail, you’re never too far from a nearby road, so it’s easy for a support vehicle to cruise ahead and park up.

The Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail begins at the bottom of Aoraki Mt Cook, New Zealand’s highest mountain. After 7km of cycling, it is time to board a helicopter for a short and memorable scenic flight across the Tasman River; a large braided river, its source

PO Box 63, 395 Glen Lyon Road, Twizel, New Zealand P : +64 3 435 0144 E : stay@matukaluxurylodge.com F : +64 3 435 0149

www.matukaluxurylodge.com

Experience tranquillity and stunning mountain views at Matuka Lodge, Twizel, New Zealand Witness the staggering beauty of the Southern Alps, Lake Pukaki and the Twizel area. Explore the wonders of the World Heritage listed Mt Cook National Park, the Alps 2 Ocean Cycleway and skiing at Ohau.

But you know what? Nothing beats just sitting back and taking in the view of the Southern Alps from your north-facing deck. Whatever your taste in activities, one thing we can guarantee: you won't want to leave.

PO Box 63, 395 Glen Lyon Rd, Twizel, NZ | P. +64 3 435 0144 | E. matukalodge@xtra.co.nz

PASQUALE VITICULTURA

originating from the glacial terminal lake. There are often large icebergs to be seen floating here! After being dropped off at a remote point on the other side of the river, the only way back to civilization is by bike.

There is now an alternate start to the trail at Lake Tekapo; a handy option for those who don’t wish to pursue the helicopter crossing at Aoraki Mt Cook. It is a total of 56km of flat and easy cycling from Lake Tekapo to Twizel utilising the Tekapo Canal Road (no vehicles - only cycles are permitted access). The bonus of the new addition to the trail is it affords an opportunity to take some time out in Tekapo. Treat yourself to an amazing Earth & Sky Observatory experience and look through the window of the universe. Set your imagination free on one of their night time observatory tours in the heart of the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve.

The Lake Tekapo alternate start links up with the main Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail at the shores of Lake Pukaki. Cycling along the eastern side of Lake Pukaki you reach the Tekapo B Power Station. This utilitarian building sits like a massive brick amongst the surreal turquoise of Lake Pukaki. The vibrant colour of the lake is a result of the glacial “rock flour” - (finely ground particles) refracting the sunlight.

The meandering trail at the bottom of Lake Pukaki is first class, affording panoramic views of the lake with Aoraki Mt Cook towering above all in the distance. The canvas of this landscape is comprised of three main colours: the gold of grass, the pristine white of mountain peaks, and the turquoise of the lake.

Leaving the edge of Lake Pukaki, there is a cross-country trail leading over the Pukaki Flats with undulating golden grasses and not a tree in sight - a wide open expanse typical of the Mackenzie Country, where the town of Twizel awaits. With plenty of accommodation, activities, and dining options Twizel is a popular base for those wanting to take the time to explore the surrounding Mackenzie Country.

STARGAZING TOURS OBSERVATORY TOURS ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY TOURS

Home to the Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve

Let our knowlegeable astronomy guides navigate you around the wonders of our southern sky.

BOOK A TOUR WITH US TODAY:

www.earthandsky.co.nz email: info@earthandsky.co.nz Ph: +64 3 6806 960 LAKE TEKAPO NEW ZEALAND

The trail from Twizel to Lake Ohau Lodge is quite an easy ride. The first portion is along the canal road, followed by a very scenic ride along the Lake Ohau foreshore with isolated, peaceful bays perfect for a lunch stop. This part of the trail is a highlight; a high-grade trail surface, native bush, and the peace and quiet of the lake. Although Ohau means “place of the wind”, when it is not windy the lake is still and mirror-like. Far from the

road, silence and serenity are the prevailing themes of the trail here.

From halfway up the driveway of Lake Ohau Lodge, the trail climbs steadily into the hills.

Crossing over crystal clear mountain streams and winding past native beech forest, this is truly some inspiring terrain. This section has been rated as the top highlight of the trail by the cycling public, and it is easy to see why.

It is also worth noting that this is the steepest section of the trail, featuring a winding 6km uphill climb. Although not excessively steep there are many “false summits” along the way that may leave you thinking “great, the end is near!” only to discover on rounding a corner that the trail stretches onwards and upwards! Remember it is not a race; take breaks and walk a little if needed.

Cresting the summit of the highest point the views are remarkable and well worth the effort it takes to access them. Panoramic scenery abounds, with unparalleled views of

Lake Ohau and the surrounding mountain ranges.

Let the downhill fun begin! From the highest point, a 4WD grass track leads down off the hills. Enjoy the wind in your face as you simply coast along; this is one of best parts of the trail - you really want to get back to the high point so you can coast downhill again! Once back down you can choose to take a 14km return detour to the Clay Cliffs; an absolute must-see landmark. The cliffs are huge sharp pinnacles and ridges separated by deep narrow ravines; a stark and almost alien landscape. You will be taken aback when you round the last corner and see them looming up in front of you - definitely worth the effort.

This section finishes up in Omarama, the gateway to three spectacularly scenic areas the Mackenzie Basin, Lindis Pass and Waitaki Valley. Located at the South Island’s widest point, Omarama was originally an overnight stop for the famous Cobb & Co coaches.

Today Omarama is host to a wide range of shops and services from an eclectic antique shop/movie memorabilia museum to the country’s highest producing vineyard, Omarama continues to surprise. The area is also famous for the fantastic gliding conditions in the nearby mountains. Glide Omarama operate a gliding school here internationally

recognized for its innovative teaching and spectacular soaring opportunities.

Experience the joy of soaring with a Glider Trial Flight and take the controls under the guidance of a fully qualified instructor.

Leaving Omarama on the off-road trail, you reach the top of the Chain Hills.

The trail skims along the Lake Benmore foreshore, with plenty of secluded spots for quiet contemplation. After reaching the town of Otematata, you cycle to the top of Benmore Dam, New Zealand’s largest solid-earth dam. The engineering involved in the hydroelectric scheme is very impressive and on a scale rarely seen these days.

from the tears of aoraki

The trail follows the Te Akatarawa road on the northern side of Lake Aviemore - a popular holiday destination, with plenty of caravans and boats tucked up amongst the trees at the lake’s edge. It is a fantastic section to ride during the autumn with impressive foliage on display and fewer folk around. This section finishes up in Kurow, a town blessed with two local wineries - Pasquale Kurow Winery and Ostler Wines. Both are making ample use of the cool climate, warm summers and long, dry autumn seasons to produce wines with a distinctive min-

“The moon’s last curtain call” taken from Mt.John University Observatory. ©Maki Yanagimachi/Earth&Sky Ltd

Ostler Wines Are Available At Selected Restaurants & Cafes In The Waitaki Region Come And See Us At Our Regional Winetasting Room For Bottle Sales And Tastings The Old Post Office, 45 Bledisloe St, Kurow Ph 03 436 0545 Open From Labour Weekend To Easter Friday – Monday Incl 12 Noon -6pm Private Tastings By Arrangement waitaki valley, north otago

www.ostlerwine.co.nz

Glide Omarama

Burnside Homestead is a heritage experience that matches the grandeur of the scenery of North Otago.

• • •

will feel restored, revived and rested.

Burnside caters for supported groups, freedom cyclists and independent travellers.

Bruce and Alison welcome all travellers with 30 plus years hospitality experience.

Burnside Homestead is a provider on the packaged “An Oasis after riding 100km’s...warm hospitality... delicious home produce.” Aus, January 2015 “Burnside has been a highlight of our A2O journey UK, March 2015 “The best meal I’ve had in NZ at the end my NZ visit....” USA June 2015

Coach House FORWARD BOOKING STRONGLY RECOMMENDED at www.burnsidehomestead.co.nz or Bruce & Alison Albiston Ph: 64 3 4324194

erality and complexity of fruit flavours.

Take a well-deserved break and indulge in a wine-tasting; Ostler welcome private group wine-tastings by prior arrangement.

After Kurow comes the village of Duntroon, long since dormant but now awakening as an influx of business comes into town in the form of cyclists seeking food, drink and a place to sleep. Duntroon is rising to the challenge with new businesses popping up to cater to the requirements of the cyclists.

Just past Duntroon you will encounter the Elephant Rocks, a bizarre collection of large weathered limestone rocks, projecting out of the earth like they were thrust up by a subterranean giant. It is a fun place to wander around, climbing the formations and taking photos.

The trail then meanders amongst verdant green paddocks, onto gravel roads and then back off-road. There is even an historic sandstone tunnel to cycle through. Limestone cliffs rise out of sheep-mown grass, and you begin to see glimpses of the ocean far off in the distance.

The closer one gets to Oamaru the more tangible the pull of the ocean becomes. The ef-

fect is almost tidal, sweeping one away into a zone of complete abstraction, with the only sound that of your wheels as you cruise along the trail. It is a beautiful experience when you reach Friendly Bay and step lightly into the sea foam. Somehow words are not needed for such a moment as this.

Oamaru is an attractive and charmingly eccentric town. The beautifully preserved historic Victorian precinct abounds with interesting arts, crafts and dining establishments. Steampunk HQ is a curious example of “what the past would look like if the future had happened sooner”. Steampunk works are often set in an alternate history of 19th century Victorian England or the American “Wild West”; a vision of a post-apocalyptic future in which steam power is in mainstream use.

Then, of course there are the penguins! At the Blue Penguin colony, you can have the singular privilege of watching the penguins arrive home in the evening from their day’s fishing, swaying jauntily up the stony ramp right in front of you.

The lasting impression of the A2O is the sense of having achieved something remarkable. The great thing is that the achievement

is within easy grasp of anyone with even a moderate level of fitness. The more experienced may want to test themselves by pushing the pace, others may want just to enjoy a leisurely cruise; it is up to you. The A2O is New Zealand in all its colour and beauty from the highest mountain, past great lakes and rivers, down to the ocean. The memory of completing such an epic journey will stay with you always. GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 26, 020 Area - 14, 491 km2 Main reason to visit: Hiking and cycling Top attraction: Aoraki Mount Cook Fun fact: Aoraki Mount Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand

Dunedin

DUNEDIN

ALL ABOARD A world-class scenic excursion

by Denise Warrington I love trains. Who doesn’t? Sitting back, relaxing just watching the countryside glide slowly past the window. It is relaxing, nostalgic, exciting and carries a certain air of romance. So when visiting Dunedin, there is no reason why you should not take a train ride with Dunedin Railways – operators of the famous Taieri Gorge Railway.

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“At Hindon, the train crosses the river on yet another bridge, this time supported by stunning stonework and the scenery begins to get

MORE AND MORE RUGGED AND SPECTACULAR

KT

he Taieri Gorge Railway recently rebranded to the newer and more be-fitting name of Dunedin Railways. Complete with an elegant new logo the name was chosen because it includes the name of the city that is home to the famous icon but also describes the direction the company has taken. Not only does Dunedin Railways run trips through the stunning Taieri Gorge but now reaches further afield - mainly the railway line north of Dunedin with regular trips to Waitati, Palmerston, Moeraki or Oamaru.

However, the Taieri Gorge Railway remains firmly as the company’s jewel in the crown and it is this train that I have had the pleasure of riding.

The trip begins at the splendid Dunedin Railway Station – home to Dunedin Railways. This is rumoured to be the most photographed building in New Zealand and judging by the number of aspirant photographers out the front, it is easy to concur. This outstanding example of Flemish Renaissance architecture was designed by George Troup and completed in 1906.

Once the busiest railway station in New Zealand, the only passenger trains that pass through the station now are those run by Dunedin Railways and the occasional charter rail tour.

I check into the booking office at the station and am directed to the gold train waiting patiently at the main platform. We are welcomed aboard by the train manager over the PA and after a short toot from the locomotive, we glide smoothly out of the station.

As we travel through the south end of the city and into the suburbs the train manager

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 125

Wingatui Viaduct

126 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

begins his informative and entertaining commentary which lasts throughout the trip. At Wingatui, a junction near Mosgiel, the train turns off onto the Taieri branch and sneaks across the fertile Taieri Plains before beginning its ascent into the Taieri Gorge where the spectacular bit kicks in.

The railway has ten tunnels on this branch and I am amazed as the train passes through the first and second with inches to spare. I feel like I must almost hold my

breath as we pass through to help the carriage fit. Safely out we descend slowly upon the fabulous Wingatui Viaduct – a tall, wrought iron structure spanning the valley. At 197.5 metres long and 47 metres high the engineering wonder of this viaduct defies belief that the early railway pioneers could achieve such a masterpiece. On the other side the train slows down and the train manager gives us a photographer’s tip so we can get ready to take a snap of the gorgeous viaduct from the best vantage point. The train carries on and follows the Taieri River which we learn is New Zealand’s forth longest river.

The train manager’s friendly chatter enlightens us not only to the building of the railway line but also the geography of the land, the flora and fauna of the area and some history of the railway line itself and the birth of the company. The higher the train climbs above the meandering river the more appreciation goes

Pukerangi Station

into the engineering genius of this railway line especially once we hit the Flat Stream Viaduct and beyond into the area known as The Notches.

The high, curved wrought iron viaduct known as Flat Stream is a highlight and once over it and around the corner, we are once again directed to look back for that hero shot. The next highlight is The Notches – a series of three short bridges and cuttings through several rocky outcrops. This has to be the most spectacular part of the journey.

A bit further up and we make a stop at the teasingly named Reefs Hotel – formerly a small railway workers hut that doesn’t exactly serve any beer but was named the Reefs Hotel by the staff in jest. This is the second stop of the day and is thoroughly spectacular. It is a vantage point with amazing views over the Taieri River far below and also beyond over the Strath Taieri Plains framed by the Rock and Pillar mountain range.

Back on board and we continue onto Pukerangi – a tiny settlement with a railway station and one or two houses. Once a week in winter and twice a week in summer the train carries on to Middlemarch but for today, Pukerangi is our terminus.

Here we drop off a few passengers who are carrying on to Queenstown by coach and pick up a coach load of tourists. For me, it is off for a coffee and a snack at the café car which has a wide variety of foods including the famous South’s cheese rolls (which are a tasty must) along with teas, coffees and a range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages.

Back in Dunedin we are bid farewell by the friendly crew and invited to try the company’s other exciting train rides to either Waitati, Moeraki or Oamaru which I am plan to do next time. GTNZ

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 127, 500 Area - 3, 314 km2 Main reason to visit: Art and culture Top attraction: Dunedin is home to New Zealand’s only castle; Larnach Castle Fun fact: 25,000 students make Dunedin New Zealand’s most youthful city!

From New Zealand’s old capital Dunedin, we head to the rolling hills of the Otago Peninsula to visit historic Larnach Castle.

For a night’s repose, we pulled over to a charming country house that seemed to be lighting up in luxury. Stepping inside Camp Estate, we are greeted by Nina and Roger, the two attentive and entertaining hosts running this luxurious retreat.

The grand marble staircase, crystal chandeliers and classical furnishing throughout are indeed lavish.

Everything is spotless, shining, and yet at the same time warm, inviting, and calming. Ascending the staircase, we are ushered to one of the five beautiful rooms available at Camp Estate.

Fog was quite heavy in the morning, but as the sun rises further, the full beauty of the property is unveiled.

Located just 500 meters from Larnach Castle, we get to explore the castle and gardens - all with the majestic backdrop of rolling green pastures clashing with the mighty South Pacific.

Our favourite memories while staying at this luxurious estate involve spending the day exploring points of interests in Otago, beautiful cooked breakfast, strolling around the property at dusk, a walk with stunning views behind Camp Estate - all topped off with a dinner in one of Larnach Castle’s dining rooms.

Wanaka

WANAKA

IMAGE: Backcountry Helicopters

Lake Wanaka SIBERIA EXPERIENCE

by Carla Munro I’m going to Siberia. To say I’m excited is a flagrant understatement. My fingers are tapping the steering wheel in staccato anticipation and my left foot stamps along like enthusiastic exclamation marks. I’m flying to Siberia. In a helicopter. And I’ll be back by day’s end, via a glorious hike and exhilarating jet boat trip.

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ou see, the Siberia I'm going to is not in Russia – it's right here in New Zealand and it's one of the most stunning valleys in the magnificent Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Area and Mt Aspiring National Park.

Wilkin River Jets operate the Siberia Wilderness Adventure from Makarora, a wilderness hamlet only 40 minutes' drive from Wanaka. This quaintly rustic village boasts a hearty café, information centre, adventure activities, a camping ground and a luxury lodge or two. At the heart of the action the turquoise waters of the Makarora and Wilkin Rivers weave their way through the native forest and sweeping river valleys.

Now, I have to be honest; I love helicopters. The thrumming of the blades and the butterfly-like swoop as you lift off make you feel like a V.I.P regardless of the fact that you're wearing tramping boots and stripy long johns. Once I arrive in Makarora, after stopping at several spots and lookouts on the road from Wanaka (Lake Hawea should be one of the world’s wonders, its off-the-chart gorgeous!) I check in at the Wilkin River Jets' office on the main road. Danyel, a blonde, bubbly 20-something, and daughter of owners of Wilkin River Jets, Patsy and Harvey Hutton, greets me cheerfully. She tells me the plan for the day – Harvey will drop me into the Siberia Valley after a bit of a scenic flight around the Tolkienesque mountains and valleys of Mt Aspiring National Park.

Lunch is either at Siberia Hut or on the valley floor by the river surrounded by wildflowers, then I'll walk from the valley through native beech forest to the Wilkin River where I'll be meeting Danyel in the jet boat. Wait a minute, Danyel's my jet boat driver? She's so young! It transpires that this down-to-earth young lady is one of the youngest female jet boat drivers in New Zealand (if not the world), and in my humble opinion is Wilkin River Jets' best jet boat driver.

Mount Aspiring IMAGE: Camilla Stoddart

So far, it's all sounding too amazing to be real. But real it is, and this hits home as Harvey arrives to lead us to the heli. Having established Wilkin River Jets and Backcountry Helicopters in 1968, what Harvey and wife Patsy don't know about this region isn't worth knowing. Harvey has spent more years than he'd be happy with me disclosing, flying choppers, hunting, fishing and hiking these mountains, rivers and valleys. I know I am in safe hands as I haul myself aboard the dark blue Hughes 500 helicopter. Headset on, a few safety instructions and we're off! Launching into the sky with the grace of a New Zealand Falcon we bank and soar over the Makarora River, tracking west into the heart of one of the world's most beautiful World Heritage areas.

Spread before me like heaven on a platter are snow-cloaked peaks, sheer gunmetal cliffs and emerald forested slopes. One helicopter trip is not enough to take it all in! Glacial tarns lie like milky blue opals in sheer rock cauldrons so large we fly a circuit within the walls surrounding Lake Lucidus with plenty of room to spare. After the loop around Lake Lucidus, it's a hop, skip and a jump to the neighbouring valley of Siberia.

Landing on the eastern side of the Siberia Stream Harvey bids us farewell after giving us the location of the Siberia Hut, where the track to the Wilkin River starts, and telling us to watch out for the sandflies. Yes, there are sandflies here, but not many and I’m well-covered in organic repellent. But seriously, the sandflies are nothing compared to the view. I’d let a great white sandfly eat me alive just to be here! It is astonishing. I even do a running whooping dance – admittedly I am laughed at, but I care not a jot as this is my kind of paradise and should be celebrated. I’m in a valley of such wild, untouched beauty I want to put it in my pocket and keep it forever. I’m whispering to myself as I take in the verdant native forests adorning the slopes, the craggy rock faces and snowy peaks of the surrounding mountains and the perfectly clear ribbon of glacier-fed stream, “please remember this, please, remember it all…” And I will remember, how could one not, it’s so magical. However, just in case, I snap away with my camera for posterity.

Siberia Valley lake

After a light lunch I decide I need to head off to meet the boat. Wishing I had more time to stay the night in the adorable Siberia Hut – it looks like it’s going to be a fun night and a clear one so my envy for the group of hikers spending the night is tenfold (think of the star shots they’ll get!)

– I head for the track back to the river. It’s the perfect stroll, around two hours or so, depending on how often you stop to take photos, talk to trees, and generally gape at the unbelievable gorgeousness. Up and down through the lush native beech forest the West Coast and Lake Wanaka region are renowned for, and down onto the Wilkin River flat where Danyel is waiting for me with her jet boat.

I'm sad to be leaving Siberia Valley behind.

However, I am cheered by the grin-inciting jet boat sprint back to Makarora. Adrenaline and giggles fizz through my body as Danyel drives the boat like a sleight of hand magician. Where are we going?

Across those rocks!? Oh, no, we're veering that way – that's too shallow, oh my gosh we totally made it! What now? Argh, has she seen that tree? Hahaha! Yep, she sure did, oh, woah, now a spin! I'm breathless!

By the time we're docking at Makarora I've

almost forgotten the peace and calm of my wander through the Siberia Valley, and I'm whooping and laughing and energised. I give Danyel a hug – I can't help it – she's too cool! The only good thing about my Siberia Wilderness Adventure ending is the metallic blue and white Shelby Cobra classic car waiting for me at the information centre. Looks like my ride is here.

Wild Earth Lodge, Makarora

Wild Earth Lodge is a luxury lodge located off the main highway in Makarora.

Situated on the wide Makarora River flat almost at the junction with the Wilkin River, the lodge has the most incredible views down the Wilkin Valley. My host Pete is of New Zealand and French

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 7, 170 Area of Lake - 192 km2 Main reason to visit: Outdoor pursuits Top attraction: Mount Aspiring National Park Fun fact: Lake Wanaka sits below sea level

Luxury accommodation in a stunning NZ setting Wild Earth Lodge B&B is nestled into the Wilkin Valley on the verge of the Mt Aspiring National Park, a remarkable place, where 3 rivers meet to form the Makarora River flowing into Lake Wanaka.

www.wildearthlodge.co.nz Ph: + 64 3 443 4628

E: info@wildearthlodge.co.nz

SH6, Lake Hawea Road, Makarora

h t i w g n i s s Me your head since 1973

Wanaka’s o t e m o c l e W orld wonderful ws. of weirdnes s of illusion

dings, room Bizarre buil baffle your s maze will u o m fa r u o eptions and ge your perc n e ll a ch d n brain a believing! eeing is dis of reality. S

heritage and is as Kiwi as they come. He has created a particularly special lodge incorporating his passions: family, art, sustainability, nature, natural products and darn good food and wine.

For a luxury lodge with all the lavish comforts you'd expect, Wild Earth Lodge is also appealingly down to earth. The rammed earth construction is complemented by natural timber and stone. I feel instantly at home as I relax while Pete makes me a cup of tea and we yarn about Makarora, the Siberia Valley, the Shelby (I’m also a bit of a petrol-head) and many other things like his French heritage, his kids and how proud he is of them, and of course his lovely wife Janine, whom it’s obvious he adores.

I'm staying in the Wilkin Room – fittingly!

Every tiny nuance and detail have been thought of. The bathroom is like a rustic shed King Midas has touched. The view directly up the Wilkin River toward Mt Aeolus

is so peaceful and beautiful there's no need for excessive decoration; the simple, luxurious comfort is perfect.

After a shower that I don't want ever to end, I meet Pete and the other guests in the dining room for a sumptuous home cooked meal that belongs on a five-star restaurant menu.

Accompanying dinner are delectable local wines (Pinot for me all the way) and the best conversation I've had in a while. By the time I'm headed for the opulent cosiness of my bed, I can't wait to get to sleep to dream of this most perfect of perfect days. GTNZ

a 9382 WORLD 84, Wanak y PUZZLING w H te a d.co.nz ka Lugg zzlingworl u 188 Wana p @ fo in : 7489 E P: 03 443

ld.co.nz

zlingwor www.puz ded on

Recommen

Queenstown

QUEENSTOWN

ON TOP OF THE WORLD

by Jess McNaughton 2016 will mark fifty years since Skyline Enterprises used Volkswagen Kombi vans to carry its first visitors up a treacherous mountain road, to a humble timber chalet on Bob’s Peak. From those early days in the 60’s, Skyline has grown to a world-class facility that is an absolute must-see when visiting Queenstown, in New Zealand’s rugged Southern Alps.

136 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

“AS THE GONDOLA ROSE HIGHER,

STUNNING VIEWS OVER QUEENSTOWN, LAKE WAKATIPU AND THE SURROUNDING MOUNTAINS WERE REVEALED

A K

rriving into beautiful Queenstown it’s hard to miss the impressive, and slightly alien structure perched high on the hill, overlooking the town. I am told the local taxi drivers will occasionally spin a tale about it being the Mayor’s house or even a space station, much to the amusement of their passengers.

A quick five-minute walk from the centre of town brought me to the bottom terminal of the Skyline Queenstown complex. Looking up the almost dizzying incline, my mode of transport is revealed – the complex is accessed via a swiftly moving Gondola.

After being greeted by the smiling and helpful staff member at the entrance, I bought my tickets and jumped into the Gondola to start my journey to the top of the mountain - and to a full day of fun!

As the Gondola rose higher, stunning views over Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains were revealed, and before I knew it, I had reached the top and disembarked at the aptly named top terminal. The views are simply breathtaking and of course, the first thing I do is head out to the viewing deck to take it all in and sneak in a quick selfie, with the majestic Remark-

ables mountain range as a backdrop. Next stop is the famous Skyline Luge! The Luge is a non-motorised go-cart that uses gravity to send its riders flying down the specially designed tracks. A quick lesson on how to control the cart and I’m off and racing. The first track is the mellow Blue Track, which is a bit of a warm up so Lugers can get used to the steering and braking systems in the cart – both of which were surprisingly easy to master. TO PAGE 140

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 137

Aerial view of the Queenstown gondola

Platinum Queenstown offers luxury villa accommodation with: • 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, full kitchen, laundry, spacious lounge/dining areas and lock-up garage • private courtyard • stunning views of either lake or surrounding alpine vista • 2 minutes drive from centre of Queenstown • ideal for families, business travellers, couples or groups Relax in pure luxury and experience the best of our alpine and lake wonderland.

Phone: +64 3 746 7700 or visit our website: platinumqueenstown.co.nz

DELICIOUS FRESH FARE WITH STUNNING VIEWS OPEN 7 DAYS FOR LUNCH & DINNER

Bookings essential, please email: skylinequeenstownreservations@skyline.co.nz or phone: +64 3 441 0101 Skyline.co.nz/queenstown

Experience a day to remember Small group, day tour from Queenstown - Te Anau to Milford Sound return We stop where the big buses can’t

When I reach the bottom of the track and jump off, I can’t wipe the smile off my face, and I am straight up to test my skills on the more advanced Red Track.

With some fun twists and turns, I make a speedy descent down the mountain and flash a cheesy grin at the camera on the way.

ALL YEAR ROUND Trademark ‘kiwi style’ barbeque lunch in the Fiordland National Park between Nov - April Barbeque lunch on the cruise boat May - October Cruise in Milford Sound (may see dolphins, fur seals, waterfalls and more) Often see cheeky Kea on the Milford Road Visit website to book online

www.milford.net.nz

A few more laps of the Luge tracks and I have worked up a thirst, so I head to the market kitchen for a late afternoon cuppa. The selection of cakes and treats is to die for, and their freshly made pizza and curry smells amazing! I sit in the afternoon sunshine and watch as the sunset changes the view from breathtaking to simply awe-inspiring... Queenstown is a magical place.

After my coffee, it’s time to experience some Maori culture at the Kiwi Haka show. The performers greet us at the entrance to a custom designed theatre inside the main complex building, and we are then led downstairs to our seats.

The show runs for 30 minutes and is a powerful and impressive display of the traditional Haka and Poi.

The famous Skyline Luge

15% Discount if you mention this advert when booking directly

Contact Us MILFORD SOUND BBQ BUS Freephone 0800 421 045 (NZ only) Tel +64 3 442 1045 140 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015 Email info@milford.net.nz

The Kiwi Haka show finishes and I am starving! Dinner tonight is at Stratosfare Bar and Restaurant which has a mouth-watering selection of dishes and although it’s hard to do, make sure you leave lots of room for dessert! The crème brûlée and chocolate mousse were my favourites, and I must admit… I may have gone back for thirds!

The bar at Stratosfare is an ideal place to relax after dinner with a glass of wine, coffee or one of their signature cocktails while watching the twinkling lights of Queenstown below.

When the stars come out, it’s time for my final and most anticipated activity of the day – stargazing. I am greeted by the tour guide who tells me it’s a very clear night, and our group is in for a treat.

After donning the very luxurious and warm Canada Goose jackets on offer, we head back outside and take a quick walk up the Luge track to the viewing platform, where four impressive telescopes are waiting. The guide is quirky and fun, teaching us about the stars and planets that make up our galaxy while keeping

the vibe light-hearted and entertaining.

The amount of stars we can see is just incredible, and the moonlight on the snowcapped mountains that surround us is like something from a fairy tale. Tonight we are even able to see the Aurora Australis or Southern Lights – very special.

When the tour is over, and we head back inside, I am left feeling humbled and very lucky to be even a tiny part of this amazing universe we live in. We are all given a delicious hot chocolate that is the perfect end to what has been an amazing day.

DID YOU KNOW? Nickname - The adventure capital of the world Population - 28, 224 Area - 8,704 km2 Main reason to visit: Adventure tourism Top attractions: Bungy Jumping and Gondola Fun fact: Lake Wakatipu is New Zealand’s longest lake

As I make my final descent down the Gondola to bustling Queenstown below, I am buzzing and looking forward to what adventures tomorrow will bring. GTNZ

5 Star Apartments on the shores of Lake Wakatipu Hotel Rooms plus 1,2, & 3 Bedroom Apartments Just a 5 Minute Drive from Queenstown Contemporary Apartments with Stunning Lake Views Apartment

Mantra Marina Apartments +64 (3) 450 9096 marina.res@mantragroup.co.nz 875 Frankton Road, Queenstown, New Zealand 9300141 www.gotravelnewzealand.com

Fiordland

FIORDLAND

IMAGES: Warrick Mitchell/Awarua Guides

DISCOVER hidden Fiordland

by Brent Will Meeting a helicopter heading for a remote landing site in New Zealand is usually a good indicator that something exciting is soon to happen. Sure enough, 20 minutes later and we are at 2000m and approaching the east of the main divide.

142 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

“The sheer isolation was daunting initially

K

THE NEAREST ROAD AT LEAST FOUR DAYS’ WALK AWAY

e circle the Fohn Saddle and lakes, before turning and heading down the Rockburn Valley with our pilot, Nick, pointing out the interesting features and assuring us that the weather would be fine to sneak through the passes to the West Coast. Sneak through we did to an enlightening geography lesson out into the Hollyford and down the forested wonderland along the coast.

I’ve known Warrick Mitchell for several years, heard a lot of stories and eaten whitebait from the coast, so going on a Fiordland adventure means a lot to me. Like many special places, it is not always easy to get to, but on this particular day, Bronwyn and I touched down outside Warrick’s family home in a warm West Coast drizzle. Whether by circumstance or design the first 24 hours were an opportunity to simply take in our surroundings. The sheer isolation was slightly daunting initially - the nearest road end at least four days’ walk away. However, any nerves were tempered by the anticipation of

W

GET THE REAL TASTE OF FIORDLAND!

Showcasing innovative N.Z cuisine and local wines in a relaxed atmosphere with friendly service. Using the freshest local produce with meals such as (Fare Game) Fiordland venison, Hare Back Strap & Manuka Smoked Salmon has our restaurant voted Te Anau’s #1 Dining Experience by Trip Adviser & The Lonely Planet.

Recipients of N.Z Beef & Lamb Hallmark of excellence 2005 - 2015

12 Mokonui st , Te Anau redcliff_cafe@xtra.co.nz www.theredcliff.co.nz

(03) 2497431 7 Days - 4pm Till Late

discovering something new that few people ever get to experience - and further calmed by whitebait, blue cod and Veuve Clicquot for dinner! As we talked over a cup of tea, our horizon expanded from the wood fire to the nearby river, on through the West Coast rainforest and onto the long coast itself, and the isolation became almost more comforting than daunting.

Like all good adventure days, the pace and activities are dictated by what is for dinner. Green-lipped mussels, paua, sea-run brown trout, crayfish, blue cod, hapuka, and venison are all on the menu. Warwick not only supplies the means and knowledge to capture your choice, but he also has the skills to turn it into a memorable meal. One day had us traveling south along the beach harvesting a few mussels for lunch and learning how to remove paua from rocks with our bare hands. Seeing Bronwyn get her first paua by sheer determination was impressive and only added to the taste sensation when it was sautéed in garlic and fresh chili that evening. Another day found us along the coast amongst dolphins, mollymawks and albatross as we fished for blue cod. Later I discovered that dining on blue cod, and drinking Central Otago Pinot Noir accompanied by morepork calls underneath the Fiordland stars is a fantastic way to spend the evening.

Bronwyn & Warrick

DID YOU KNOW? Population - 2000 Area - 12,120 km2 Main reason to visit:

Fiords and the great walks Top attraction: Milford Sound Fun fact: Fiordland is home to the largest national park in New Zealand

Experience the wonder of Milford Sound by the air and truly appreciate how the land was formed during ancient times. Treat yourself to one of the most breathtaking scenic flights around - an experience you will never forget! www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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Large Fiordland brown trout

Sunset on the beach after a surf

146 Go Travel NZ · Spring 2015

The longer you spend in this place, the less isolated it seems with locals dropping in – by helicopter or fixed wing - to share their stories and knowledge of the area. We were given the best Fiordland geography lesson ever by our friendly pilot who dropped in for a cup of tea first before giving us a 40-minute tour. We flew inland to the Main Divide, over forests, waterfalls, and lakes accompanied by stories of heroic deer culling and live capture and a long list of intrepid human endeavors.

Mt Tutuko and the Darran Mountains were on the horizon, and forest and coast stretched as far as the eye could see. We dropped into the river’s valley to whet the appetite for a future trout fishing adventure before heading home along the coast.

It seemed all too soon that we found ourselves back in Queenstown having a post-trip gelato. Chinese New Year celebrations were in full swing and I commented to Warrick that those around us had no idea what adventure and untouched landscapes lay just a short flight away. The remote coast of Fiordland is not easy to get to, and the isolation presents challenges but the knowledge imparted and the experience shared will change your outlook on life. GTNZ

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www.gotravelnewzealand.com