Wanted in Rome - September 2018

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ENTS 4

MAAM: MIGRANTS, MURALS AND MARCHING ORDERS

9

44 taste of roma

AS ROMA PLANS FOR A PROMISING FUTURE

39 Novant’ennio

Humanitarian

MAAM: MIGRANTS, MURALS AND MARCHING ORDERS A FORMER SALAMI FACTORY IN EAST ROME IS A REFUGE FOR SQUATTING MIGRANTS AS WELL AS BEING A PRECARIOUS CATHEDRAL OF STREET ART

O

Andy Devane Eduardo Kobra’s mural of Malala Yousafzai at MAAM.

utside the museum an earthen path skirts a dangerous stretch of road – Via Prenestina – where motorists jostle for access to the multinational sports store opposite. The area’s bins have not been emptied for some time, a reminder of the forgotten nature of Tor Sapienza, a marginalised suburb in Rome’s eastern-most city limits.

This dispiriting urban sprawl of flats, flyovers and factories normally makes the news for the wrong reasons. In November 2014 Pope Francis warned of a “social emergency” after sustained protests outside a local immigration centre stoked tensions between Romans and migrants. Two years later a 20-year-old Chinese student was killed after being struck by a train as she pursued her muggers, three young men living at the Roma camp on Via Salviati, near the Tor Sapienza immigration office.

On 5 July the embattled district made headlines in the Italian art world as well as the national newspapers, thanks to a ruling by the civil courts in Rome. Italy’s interior ministry was fined €27.9 million over the Fiorucci site, an illegally-occupied former salami factory turned street art museum, known as Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz_città meticcia, or MAAM for short.

The state was ordered to pay the massive sum to the owners of the property, the powerful international construction firm Salini. The court also ordered the eviction of the 200 4 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

squatters from the site and condemned the “tolerance of illegal occupation” in Rome, citing the existence of around 100 other similar cases in the capital.

On the same day as the MAAM ruling, police evicted 100 Sudanese migrants, mostly working as hawkers and harvesters, from another building on Via Scorticabove in the neighbouring S. Basilio district. In March hundreds of migrants were removed from privately-owned property on Via di Vannina, also in S. Basilio, just north of MAAM. Many have taken shelter in a former penicillin factory on nearby Via Tiburtina, where around 600 people live in appalling conditions, some in shacks constructed from asbestos panels.

The case of MAAM has also reignited the divisive debates – separate but interconnected – of social housing and asylum seekers, in a city suffering from a chronic public housing shortage.

Humanitarian The Fiorucci factory, which now houses MAAM, ceased to operate in the mid1980s. It was purchased by Salini in 2003 for €6.85 million. The firm intended to transform the 19,000-sqm site into apartment accommodation, part of which would become social housing, with the city’s approval. However the plan became mired in bureaucracy for ten years, only receiving the green light in 2013.

By this stage the Fiorucci site had been occupied illegally for four years, thanks to the efforts of the Blocchi Precari Metropolitani (BPM). This collective of Rome-based activists involved in “property reappropriation” has sourced accommodation for migrants from South America, north Africa and eastern Europe.

The 200 current occupants, including 60 children, live in peaceful coexistence. Their multiethnicity is reflected in the surnames painted on the constellation of post boxes, almost an art installation in itself, as well as the compound’s various place names such as Corridoio dei rom or Piazza Perù.

In 2012 the sprawling site took an experimental artistic direction, assuming the name MAAM, and today is home to more than 500 works of urban art, from murals to installations.

Its exterior wall boasts an eye-catching but fading portrait of the Pakistani activist for female education, Malala Yousafzai, by Brazil’s Eduardo Kobra. This is flanked by more sober figurative works by street art giants, Rome-based duo Sten & Lex and Borondo from Spain (see cover this edition).

Above the former reception area, the old Fiorucci factory sign has been adapted to read “FART”, poking fun at self-important art institutions. Even the acronym MAAM appears to be a gentle dig at the capital’s contemporary art centres MAXXI and MACRO. Three days after the shock court order, it is business as usual at MAAM. Inside the gates an elderly Eritrean lady points to a wooden box suggesting a €2 donation for the museum. It is a Saturday, open day, and visitors marvel at the art in the corrugated halls and stairways, the roofless rooms and dark corners.

The murals are punchy, sometimes disquieting, and invariably carry a social, political or environmental message. Since the project began in 2012 the walls have become a who’s-who of the contemporary art world, from senior figures such as Pablo Echaurren to younger street artists including Lucamaleonte, Alice Pasquini and Giò Pistone (all of whose work has featured on Wanted in Rome covers). MAAM’s rusting hooks and curing tanks – a macabre reminder of its grisly origins – are referenced in the pig production-line mural La cappella porcina – eMAAMcipazione, by Spanish artists Pablo Mesa Capella and Gonzalo Orquín.

The heart of this fascinating complex is a large canteen where a mid-afternoon meeting is underway between residents and activists.

In their midst sits the museum’s founder Giorgio De Finis, an independent curator, documentary filmmaker and respected figure in street art circles. He is the man responsible for encouraging more than 300 artists to

The walls of MAAM are packed with murals by more than 300 artists.

5 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Humanitarian donate their work as a form of “barricade” to defend the occupied premises.

After the meeting a man belts out a joyful tune on a battered piano to the delight of a baby chuckling in its mother’s arms. As De Finis departs with his entourage he pauses in a corridor to encourage an artist as she creates a sign saying Incontro (Meet) with coloured wool, watched by a lean cat.

The next morning De Finis was among activists, artists and journalists who boarded two buses as part of the R/home Tour highlighting the plight of people living in “occupied” buildings around the city. In a highly unusual move, the tour was attended by the city’s deputy mayor with responsibility for culture, Luca Bergamo, a member of the populist Movimento 5 Stelle and old school friend of De Finis.

The first stop on the tour, organised by housing rights associations, was the Ex Caserma on Via del Porto Fluviale in Ostiense.

Here too street art is intertwined with the occupied movement. The vast façade was painted by celebrated Bolognese street artist Blu while he squatted among the residents for two years. Today the building is occupied by around 60, mainly foreign, families as well as some down-on-their-luck Italians. Many tell a similar tale of redundancy, rent arrears and eviction.

The tour ended at MAAM which despite its denigratory label as a “museo abusivo” is considered a socio-cultural success by its supporters. MAAM first welcomed Bergamo in his official capacity as culture councillor in October 2016 – two months before he became deputy mayor. During that visit Bergamo held up the unauthorised museum as a cultural model for Roman contemporary art. Two years later he remains a cheerleader of the project despite the M5S-led city government’s hard line approach to evictions.

On 19 July Bergamo and De Finis presented a high-profile cultural initiative involving a municipal museum and €400,000 in city funding. De Finis isBergamo’s controversial choice as curator of an experimental project known as Asilo (Asylum) at MACRO, the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea on Via Nizza, 6 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Rome deputy mayor Luca Bergamo and Giorgio De Finis at MAAM.

to run from 1 October until the end of next year.

Bergamo clarified that De Finis would be the “curator” of the project, not the director of MACRO, bypassing the requirement of a public tender process. However given the fact that Asilo will be MACRO’s sole activity for 15 months, De Finis is viewed as the museum’s de facto director.

De Finis plans to transform MACRO, wich has been without a director or direction for more than two years, into a “living” museum, granting contemporary artists the space to work, perform and interact with the public who can visit for free. It remains to be seen whether such a subversive figure, who plans to draw on his “anti-institutional experience”, can win over a mistrusting art establishment or whether his appointment will ultimately prove damaging to Bergamo and the M5S. As preparations gather pace for the Asilo opening party on 30 September, the future has never been more precarious for the residents of MAAM who, despite their diverse backgrounds, share their illegal lodgings in harmony amid a treasure trove of world-class street art.

MAAM, on Via Prenestina 913, can be visited (for now) on Saturdays only, from 10.00-17.00.

It can be reached by taking the 508 bus from Ponte Mammolo metro station for 14 stops, getting off at Prenestina-Tiratelli.

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Sport

AS ROMA PLANS FOR A PROMISING FUTURE AS ROMA SEEKS TO CARRY THE SPIRIT OF AN “IMPOSSIBLE DREAM” INTO THE NEW SEASON AS THE CLUB’S POPULARITY SOARS OFF THE FIELD

Ed White Francesco Totti’s emotional farewell at Stadio Olimpico on 28 May 2017.

B

lessed with an impassioned support base and fuelled by a city rivalry among the most ardent in world football, AS Roma football club has a responsibility to push boundaries and strive for ambition. For hundreds of thousands of supporters, the club is not simply a namecheck, it is a culture – and to some fans, almost a religion.

Founded in 1927, AS Roma was based at Campo Testaccio from 1929 until 1940 when the club moved to the present location of what is still called the Stadio Olimpico, which has been through at least two major redesigns, one for the 1960 Rome Olympic Games (hence the stadium’s name) and again for the World Cup Italia ‘90. Campo Testaccio has long since been abandoned but its surrounding neighbourhood remains an AS Roma stronghold.

AS Roma shares the Stadio Olimpico with arch-

rivals Lazio as well as the national rugby team.

Support for the city’s two teams has divided large swathes of the city and the rivalry is referred to as the “Derby della Capitale”.

The teams met for a first time in 1929 and have played 170 official matches – with Roma winning 64.

Over the course of 91 years the Giallorossi, as they are nicknamed, have become a powerhouse of Italian football and recognised as an international brand. However, in recent years one man has done more than most to popularise the club around the world: Francesco Totti. Over a playing career spanning from 1992-2017, Totti made 619 appearances and scored 250 goals – guiding Roma to only its third Serie A title in 2001.

However, football goes on and Roma started life without their former talisman by writing new history last season. For Roma supporters, 9 | Sept • Wanted in Rome

Sport 10 April 2018 is a date that will be etched in their minds for years to come.

The Giallorossi trailed Spanish champions Barcelona following a 4-1 defeat in the opening leg of their Champions League quarterfinal encounter, and the footballing world expected another defeat when the two teams recommenced battle at the Stadio Olimpico.

But football is a funny old game.

Roma’s star striker Edin Dzeko, who had scored a vital consolation goal in Barcelona the previous week, laid the foundations of hope within six minutes of the start. Hope transcended into belief when club captain Daniele De Rossi struck home a penalty kick.

Then came the dreamland. Defender Kostas Manolas scored a header in the final ten minutes to electrify the Stadio Olimpico. The goal, which saw Roma draw 4-4 over the two legs, capped one of Italian football’s greatest club comebacks and saw the Rome side go through to the next round.

Sadly for the Giallorossi, there was no second lightning strike following a similar first leg downfall in the semi-finals against Liverpool – although the special Stadio Olimpico atmosphere helped them return a 4-2 victory off the back of a 5-2 defeat in England.

The run to the last four in one of the world’s greatest club competitions has put Roma back into the global sphere of elite clubs among supporters across the world. However it has not just been on the pitch that Roma has seen significant progress over recent years.

Following the acquisition of the club by Boston billionaire James Pallotta’s parent company Keep Roma Holding, the club has scaled up its interests internationally, promoting supporter engagement from every angle. “We didn’t have a commercial team, we didn’t have a digital team, we didn’t have a TV station, we didn’t have a radio station, we didn’t have studios. Now we have those things,” Pallotta said earlier this year. “If you want to be a consistent top 10 player in the world, you’ve got to have the revenues.”

On social media and online, the club’s media team has worked tirelessly to forge a slice of 10 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Kostas Manolas scored a vital goal for AS Roma in April.

the English-speaking market share, producing a campaign of diverse social posts from the bog-standard to the plain wacky. The infamous “Roma Admin” has delivered on the big stage itself – attracting a new generation of football supporters and helping to increase match attendances by almost 4,000 per game in the last 12 months.

Pallotta has also embodied the outreach programme in person. Not least by his exuberant celebrations jumping into a Rome fountain following the famous night against Barcelona which resulted in an apology to Rome’s mayor Virginia Raggi and a €230,000 donation to repair the Fontana Dei Leoni in Piazza del Popolo. Despite his antics, it was heart-warming for the celebrating supporters to have seen such passion shown by the moneyman heading up the boardroom.

The grandest of expansions in Pallotta’s plan, however, is the proposed construction of a new stadium for the Giallorossi. Plans surfaced in 2014 for the construction of the Stadio della Roma and adjoining entertainment complex in the city’s south-west Tor di Valle suburb – with the club keen on selling naming rights for the stadium in the future. When built, Pallotta has stated that the stadium will be the “most used facility in all of southern Europe.”

Progress has had its hold ups, with Rome’s mayor initially rejecting the proposal in February 2017. However Raggi gave her

Sport support to a scaled-back scheme after AS Roma agreed to a 60 per cent reduction of the proposed surrounding park, which meant dropping plans for three high-rise office towers designed by American architect Daniel Libeskind.

The plans were finally approved last December and an artist’s impression, developed by American architect Dan Meis, revealed the extent of the 52,500 all-seater stadium.

Inspired by the Colosseum, Meis has included a 14,000-seat section designed to maintain the roaring atmosphere of the Curva Sud – the traditional home of hardcore AS Roma fans – at the Stadio Olimpico.

Roma supporters could be settling into their new surroundings as early as 2020, but a police investigation in mid-June threatened to delay the works. Nine high-profile business and political figures were arrested over alleged corruption relating to contracts for the construction of the stadium – although AS Roma has distanced itself from the allegations and nobody at the club is under investigation.

Outlining his vision for the future, Pallotta says: “We know we’re never going to get a Barcelona fan to switch to become a Roma fan, but our goal from day one is that if there are three billion football fans in the world, we aim to be everybody’s second favourite team in the world. So if I can get one per cent of that three AS Roma president James Pallotta has major plans for the club.

billion I’ve got 30 million, and if I could get those 30 million to spend on average just €5, which isn’t even a hat, then that’s €150m of incremental revenues and that’s a lot.”

Such finances are required to consistently match up against the best of Europe with television rights in the English Premier League and Spain’s La Liga sky-rocketing year on year.

As the focus returns to the pitch, the challenge for the 2018/19 season is to topple the dominant force of Juventus in Serie A. Juventus has won the last seven Serie A titles, taking its overall haul to 34. Roma, on the other hand, has been crowned champions on just three occasions.

The last title arrived at the end of the 2000/01 season.

There is a sense, however, that Roma is on the crest of a wave, powered by positive public feeling. Last season’s exploits have already rubbed off on the playing squad members available to head coach Eusebio Di Francesco.

The club cashed in on its Champions League success and secured a multi-million euro shirt sponsorship deal with Qatar Airways – and that has been directed towards adding depth to an already exciting squad – spearheaded by goal machine Edin Dzeko. Ramon Rodriguez Verdejo, commonly known as Monchi – Roma’s director of football – continues to add to his reputation as a “transfer genius” in the convoluted marketplace of footballers with a succession of stellar recruits.

It hasn’t all gone Roma’s way, though. Star player Radja Nainggolan has moved to Inter Milan – although Roma gained Italian international Davide Santon and youth hope Nicolo Zaniolo as part of the deal with Inter.

Looking ahead to the coming season, it will be a difficult task for the young blood of Roma to overcome the dominance of Juventus. But if last year told us anything, it was that nothing is impossible.

11 | Sept • Wanted in Rome

Environment

THE TREES OF ROME A HISTORY OF ROME’S TREES, FROM PRIMEVAL OAKS TO THE TOPPLING PINES OF TODAY

Martin Bennett Plane trees line the embankments along the river Tiber.

goddess of breast-feeding. From earliest times a commemorative tree was a feature in the Roman Forum, the health of its branches portending the city’s fortunes.

I

talo Calvino wrote fancifully how once upon a time “A monkey could leave Rome and, swinging from tree to tree, reach Spain without touching the ground.”

Rome’s hills each had their own sacred grove and protective priest; cutting down trees carried a possible death sentence. With the gradual destruction of the aqueducts after the fall of the empire, Rome’s horti dried up.

Greenery remained scarce up to the 18th century when Grand Tourists lamented the dustiness of the city’s streets, the treeless corsi instead of verdant avenues.

Rome’s sylvan nature rustles in the names of its hills, streets and squares. One etymology derives Esquilino from “aesculus” or “eschi”, a sort of oak that grew there; Viminale stems from “vimini”, the shoots of this former marshland’s willows, the Celio from “quercuetalanus” or “querce”, another oak. Piazza del Popolo evokes the poplar topping the place where Nero was buried, in the Domitii Ahenobarbi mausoleum which was on the Pincio. According to legend devils and witches danced around it, at least until the tree was felled and a chapel, now the famous church of S. Maria del Popolo, built in its place under Pope Paschal II in 1099.

Rome’s most characteristic trees are not originally Roman. Palms are said to have sprung from Julius Caesar’s weakness for dates and thanks to Titus’s legions returning victorious from Judea. As can be proved by a visit to the new S. Giovanni Metro C station, peach-trees appeared after Septimius Severus’s conquest of Persia in the third century AD. “ARRIVANO LE PESCHE”, declares a stretch of station wall. Behold, a glass case displays ancient peach-stones, unearthed 14 metres undergound by archaeologists during the station’s construction. Following the timeline down the escalator to the level beneath, one discovers that millennia before the Neanderthals, and Rome not even a speck on the horizon, truly native trees were, together with the fore-mentioned oaks, the mountain ash, hornbeams, limes and various evergreens.

More etymological thickets surround the name Rome itself, leading to “Ficus Ruminalis”, the fig-tree under which Romulus and Remus were nurtured, and sacred to the Etruscan

The cypress tree has always had a central role in the design of the most important Persian gardens but became associated with death because it was used in cremations as 13 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Environment

Umbrella pines are a ubiquitous feature of Rome’s cityscape, from the centre to the coast.

its strong fragrance kept corpse-stench at bay.

It was also used to drape statues to Pluto, king of the underworld, and became a central theme in many Greek and Roman myths. A notable specimen was supposedly planted by Michelangelo. Guarded by a set of colossal heads from Trajan’s forum, it is the centrepiece of Diocletian’s baths turned Carthusian cloister.

Which brings us to the city’s “arbostar” – “pinus pinea” or more commonly known as the umbrella pines – as celebrated in Resphigi’s symphonic poem Pines of Rome, when the shouts of children playing in Villa Borghese or by moonlight on the Gianicolo compete with the nightingale prerecorded in the American Academy’s courtyard, or with fanfares of triumphant legions marching back along Appia Antica. The pines of Rome – or their distant forebears – were brought to Italy

by Greek immigrants. According to Plutarch, the tree was sacred first to fertility goddess, Cybele, then to Neptune. As Claude Lorraine and Impressionist paintings bear witness, the trees favour coastlines. Finally they were sacred to Dionysius, their resin flavouring wine, as in today’s retsina. Livy relates the trees’ role in ship-building, “pinea” becoming an alternative word for ship. Meanwhile, their seeds – “pignoli” – are a staple of Roman cuisine, modern and ancient.

14 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Due to their sheer good looks, however the trees’ main use is decorative. Search “Roman pine” online and there are more photos than for a Hollywood diva. “The ash is fairest of the wood, in gardens the pine,” states Virgil’s seventh Eclogue. In Fascist times, prompted

by Resphigi’s final march movement, the authorities saw pines as a symbol of “Italianità”.

At Christmas 1937, Mussolini planted one in Piazza Venezia, the first in a row of 2,000 stretching from the Forum to what is now the the southern EUR suburb, centre of what should have been Italy’s showpiece 1942 Esposizione Universale di Roma. The trees would eventually line Via Imperiale (now Cristoforo Colombo) all the way to the sea at Ostia.

Planners in the 1930s also overlooked the fact that, in an urban setting, pines’ natural 180year lifespan is halved. Leading to the recent spate of headlines: “SOS Pini”, “Tree Hits cab / supermarket / rail tracks” or “Montesacro: Fear At Dawn”. Nor is it just a matter of trees toppling. Their roots, undermining the asphalt, caused a young motorcyclist’s death in early May on Via Ostiense. Some 82,000 trees in Rome are monitored by the city’s gardens authority. Yet as its director Rosalba Matassa explained in an interview with Italian daily La Repubblica, monitoring can only be conducted above ground. No instrument can

Environment control the roots. Pruning, another remedy, can be counterproductive as it make the trees grow taller, causing some to become top-heavy.

Also hard-pressed are Rome’s palm-trees, the red – though actually more orange-coloured – weevil, having arrived from north Africa via Sicily to afflict the palms of Rome. It is thought that as many as 30 per cent of those in Lazio may have been infected. The disease is difficult to identify until the top branches begin to droop and die. By then it is almost too late to cure the trees, although extensive early and then annual spraying has saved many around the city, especially in the Orto Botanico between Trastevere and the Janiculum.

Another species making headlines for the wrong reasons is the plane tree. “Rome’s Trees Strike Back”, this time for a plane tree crushing a bus, injuring its driver on Viale delle Milizie in the Prati district. About 15,000 planes, like the equally dense-leafed lime, reduce decibels by up to 30 per cent. They also lower temperatures and absorb ever-rising rates of pollution. Levels of lead in leaves near traffic have been found to be 20-80 times higher than in their rural counterparts. Introduced after the unification of Italy in 1871, planes were the Savoy dynasty’s species of choice, Viale Trastevere and other thouroughfares emulating any Parisian boulevard. Sickly yellow trunks and flaking bark – vegetal eczma – seem to be the price paid for combating whatever Rome’s inexorable traffic (and bus-stop smokers) can dump on them. Eco-barriers. Eco-warriors, heroes even. (One 15 metre-tall tree absorbs up to 10 kg of CO2 an hour.)

Other species are lambasted for growing where they shouldn’t, most notably ailanthus, brought from China by Jesuits in the 18th century.

Despite its other name, Tree of Paradise, one recent article in La Repubblica accused it of undermining the Aurelian wall, comparing it and its innumerable seeds to a time-bomb.

The author then cites its English name “Stink tree”, Neapolitan “cazzipicchio” and Genoese’s “albero di merda”. Rub its pointy leaves in your hand and the smell is acrid and long-lasting.

With a prodigious root system, the infectious species is not difficult to find, engulfing railway embankments and motorways. In Via del Pigneto the trees compete for space, in one stretch outnumbering pines a dozen times over.

As an antidote, enter an indigene of the American South, magnolia grandiflora. Byword for fragrance, between Hard Rock Café and Hotel Excelsior they adorn Via Veneto’s upper reaches, flower-buds readying for June. Only don’t sleep under them: rural myth warns that their scent is so strong it might prove fatal.

More pristinely fragrant perhaps are the Aventino’s orange trees, all from a seed brought in 1220 by St Dominic from his native Spain. Or one could climb Salita del Grillo (up from Trajan’s Forum) to the Angelicum University. In a quiet courtyard close to the students’ entrance, an impressive olive-tree becomes even more so on noticing, as you gaze upward, some unlikely fig-leaves sprouting from its familiar gnarled trunk. It is one of Rome’s lesser-known wonders, olive tree and fig tree in one.

A taxi driver had a miraculous escape after his car was hit by a falling pine in Prati last October.

15 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Beaches TOP 10

BE ACHE S N E A R RO M E For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer.

Sabaudia

S. Marinella

S. MARINELLA

SABAUDIA

The northern-most beach on our list of-fers a small strip of white sandy beach with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers.

Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia.

From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

S. SEVERA Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10 km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spaggia libera.

FREGENE A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

OSTIA/CANCELLI Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome.

Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms. Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome. Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno. The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations.

16 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

S. FELICE CIRCEO Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach.

Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga.

Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the €1.50 bus ticket.

GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www.cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

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18 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Pools TOP 10

OU T DO O R P O O LS I N RO M E Come mid-summer in Rome, most of us are in need of the cool of an outdoor pool to relax by. But Rome isn’t awash with them and most are part of privately- owned swimming and sports clubs or upmarket hotels. Expect to pay upwards of €40 a day per person for entry to exquisitely chic surroundings at the top end of the spectrum, and at least €10 for for perfectly adequate but sometimes crowded and scruffy cheaper pools. We’ve picked ten of Rome’s best, from New York-style rooftop pools with to-die-for views over the city and a nice line in cocktails to family-friendly cheap and cheerful clubs. The € symbols represent ranking by price.

Piscina delle rose

Radisson SAS Hotel

1. ALDROVANDI PALACE

6. GRAND HOTEL GIANICOLO

Small and very select city-centre oasis, La Ranocchia (meaning “little frog”) is shaded by overhanging palms and huge cream parasols. Arrive early as space is limited around this pool. Daily rate Mon-Fri €55, Sat/Sun €60, Mon-Fri weekly pass €350. Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 15 (Parioli), tel. 063223993, www.aldrovandiresidence.it. €€€€

Part of a luxury hotel, this pool is located in elegant surroundings with palm trees and views of Trastevere from the Gianicolo hill.

Lunch and dinner served at pool-side restaurant. 09.00-19.00, weekdays €25, weekend rate €35. Via delle Mura Gianicolensi 107 (Gianicolo), tel. 0658333405, www. grandhotelgianicolo.it. €€

2. BELLE ARTI

Think miles of water slides, wave machines, pools, shops, South-Pacific-style thatched bars, shops and a mini-club. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Daily adult rate €24, kids €19.

Half day rates €19/17. Casal Lumbroso 33 (Aurelio), tel.

0666183183, www.hydromania.it. €€

Well worth a mention for its fantastic cen-tral location tucked behind a church on Via Flaminia. A quiet atmosphere makes it good for those with very young chil-dren. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.00. €15. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €25. Children aged 7-13 accompanied by adult pay €10 week day /15 weekend. Via Flaminia 158 (Flaminio), tel. 063226529, www.circolotennisbellearti.it. €€

3. CAVALIERI HILTON This Olympic-sized outdoor pool with a view is the crème de la crème of Rome’s pools if you like serious swimming. It’s large, luxurious and well worth the trip to Monte Mario. With a separate children’s pool. 08.00-19.00 daily (July weekdays €55, weekends €115. Aug weekdays €40, weekends €80. Sun lounger and towel included, half-price fees for children aged 6-11). Via Alberto Cadlolo 101 (Monte Mario), tel. 0635091, www. cavalieri-hilton.it. €€€€€

4. CIRCOLO VALENTINI Slightly shabby but friendly, family-run pool, used by locals. The adjoining restaurant will make up a lunchtime salad for around €4.

09.00-19.00 (weekdays €10, half-day €7, weekends €14/€10). Via della Marcigliana 597, corner Via Bufalot-ta (Talenti/Prati Fiscali), tel. 0687120207, www.circolovalentini.it. €

5. CLUB LANCIANI

7. HYDROMANIA

8. PISCINA DELLE ROSE Large pool perfect for families, swimming and canoeing lessons.

Mon-Fri 09.00-21.00, weekends 09.00-19.00 (€16 per day, €14 half-day). Viale America 20 (EUR), tel. 065926717, www.piscinadellerose.it. €€

9. RADISSON SAS HOTEL Seriously smart and stunning heated rooftop swimming pool with sections for children and adults and poolside fine dining.

10.00-19.00 (adults €65 Mon-Fri, €90 Sat-Sun). Via Filippo Turati 171 (Esquilino), tel. 06444841, www.radisson-blu.com/eshotel-rome. €€€€

10. S.S.D. VITA Professional, outdoor swimming pool arranges lessons for children and adults and has tennis courts and a gym. Mon-Fri 07.00-21.30. €12 daily. Sat 07.00-20.00. Sun 08.00-20.00. €15 daily rate weekend.

Children aged 10 upwards pay adult rate. Kids aged 5-10 €8, kids under 5 free. Via del Fontanile Arenato 66 (Aurelio), tel. 066634202, www.vitaclub.it. €

A large tennis club with an outdoor pool offering lessons, free swimming and a children’s summer school. Weekdays 09.30-18.30, weekends 09.30-19.30. Adults €10.50/15, kids €7.50/11. Via di Pietralata 135 (Tiburtino), tel. 064181401, www.edenuoto.it. €€

19 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

to do

Mon Tue Wed Thu 3

4

5

Check out the An Wei exhibition of paintings at Studio Volante, part of the Ex Dogana complex in S. Lorenzo.

Explore the city on a scooter from Cooltra. Use your WiR card for a 30 per cent discount.

Celebrate the legacy of Queen frontman Freddie Mercury with live music at Hard Rock Cafè on Via Veneto.

10

11

Tonight Gianicolo in Musica offers free comic improvisational theatre with panoramic views over Rome.

17 ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

12

Book a night in Sperlonga and enjoy two beach days and an evening in the old town, two hours south of Rome.

Check out the veteran American rockers Pere Ubu on their Monkeynet Tour live at Monk Club.

18

19

Enjoy a coffee outdoors at Tram Depot, an old tram converted into a bar, where Aventino meets Testaccio.

If you fancy a cultural trip out of town, travel to the five-sided Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola, north of Rome.

24

25

Pamper yourself with a Walk along the 800m-long relaxing spa treatment at Passetto di Borgo, the papal QC Terme near Fiumicino. escape route linking Castel S. Angelo to the Vatican.

6

Sit in on the monthly session of Old-Time and Bluegrass music at Chakra bar in Trastevere from 21.00-23.45.

13 Watch American singer -songwriter David Crosby perform with friends at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

20

Romaeuropa Festival opens with Kirina, a lively display of dance and music uniting African and western cultures.

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma presents the ballet Sleeping Beauty. WiR cardholders get 10 per cent discount on tickets.

26

27

If delicious cocktails are your thing then stop by Club Apres in Prati. Bring your WiR card for free entry.

Experience the history of the Eternal City with the multimedia Welcome To Rome. Free entry for WiR cardholders.

Fri

Sat 1

7 See the long-lost Donatello bust of S. Lorenzo currently on display at Palazzo Venezia.

Sept Sun 2018 2

If you are a porchetta fan make your way to the Castelli Romani town of Ariccia for the annual Sagra della Porchetta.

Head underground and explore 20 ancient Roman chambers at Case del Celio, a stone's throw from the Colosseum.

8

9

Enjoy one final night of jazz WiR cardholders can enjoy at Village Celimontana a free half-pint of beer at before the festival wraps up Bukowski’s Bar in Borgo Pio. for the summer.

14

15

Marvel at Giudizio Universale: Michelangelo and the Secrets of the Sistine Chapel. WiR cardholders get 10 per cent discount.

Have a drink with friends as the sun sets over the sea at Singita Miracle Beach at Fregene outside Rome.

Catch an Italian version of The Taming of the Shrew at Rome's very own replica of Shakespeare's Globe Theatre.

21

22

Sample the best of Roman haute cuisine and take part in masterclasses with top chefs at Taste of Roma.

23

Update your look at globally renowned hair salon TONI&GUY. WiR cardholders get 15 per cent off salon services.

Choose from a multitude of special cultural events in Rome to mark the annual European Heritage Days.

28

29

30

For a hilarious evening in English check out Rome's Comedy Club at Makai Surf and Tiki Bar in Ostiense.

16

A new site-specific art Grab a bargain at the exhibition dedicated to chaotic Porta Portese dreams opens today at weekly flea market but Chiostro del Bramante. watch out for pickpockets!

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry.

For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel.

0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

STATE MUSEUMS

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Baths of Diocletian

Palazzo Corsini

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry.

For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel.

0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

STATE MUSEUMS

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Baths of Diocletian

Palazzo Corsini

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

24 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Museo Canonica

CITY MUSEUMS

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Centrale Montemartini

Museo Napoleonico

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Casa di Goethe

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-21.00.

MACRO

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

MATTATOIO Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. www.museomacro.org.

Galleria Colonna

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro del Bramante

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Giorgio De Chirico House Museum

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Keats-Shelley House

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.

Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org.

Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours available on advance booking.

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists.

Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.

0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits.

Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

26 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists.

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch

This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria PIOMONTI

Founded by gallerist Pio Monti, this gallery has promoted the work of major contemporary Italian artists since 1969. Piazza Mattei 18, tel. 0668210744, www.piomonti.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Montoro 12

Galleria Mucciaccia

Nomas Foundation

Galleria Valentina Moncada

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

This gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel.

063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel.

0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea

Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www.m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.

0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Philobiblon Gallery

The Rome branch of this international franchise hosts exhibitions in addition to dealing in antique books. Via Antonio Bertoloni 45, tel. 0645555970, www.philobiblon.org.

Pian de Giullari

This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions.

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Plus Arte Puls

La Nuova Pesa

RvB ARTS

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900

This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel.

3482833034.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

27 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

28 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

where to go in Rome

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academies

30 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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EXHIBITIONS

EXHIBITIONS

collection of almost 400 images, both documentary and artistic, capturing destroyed buildings, damaged sculptures and the machinery of war. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, tel. 060608, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

BRIC-à-BRAC | THE JUMBLE OF GROWTH | 17 July – 14 Oct

Eddie Peake at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill. Girlfriends and Boyfriends.

DREAM: L’ARTE INCONTRA I SOGNI 29 Sept-5 May

The Chiostro del Bramante hosts a site-specific exhibition of dream-themed art works, guiding viewers on a “physical, surreal, mental and dreamlike journey.”

The international artists include major names such as Anselm Kiefer, Mario Merz, Christian Boltanski, Kate MccGwire, Anish Kapoor, Bill Viola, Luigi Ontani, Ettore Spalletti and James Turrell.

The exhibition completes the trilogy of shows curated by Danilo Eccher, begun with Love in 2016 and Enjoy last year.

Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

EDDIE PEAKE 22 Sept-17 NOV

Eddie Peake is a young British painter, sculptor and performance artist whose work is concerned with personal identity, interpersonal communication, sexuality, and the complex levels of relationship in modern urban life. His latest show focuses exclusively on the medium of painting, referencing classic themes such as portraiture, self-portraiture and art history.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.

TRIPTYCHS 1-22 Sept

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea holds a group exhibition comprising a series of oil, pencil, and photographic triptychs created by seven international and Italian artists, curated by Daina Maja Titonel. Isabella Ducrot offers portraits of Russian composers from her series Russian Faces while Angelo Titonel presents a triptych featuring Francis Bacon.

Pierre-Yves Le Duc portrays a gigantic, Hokusian wave; Ana Kapor presents evocative and imaginative mediaeval architecture; and Aleksandar Dimitrijevic’s highly colourful canvases play with symbols from “gaming notes.” Gianfranco Toso explores the metaphysical dimensions of geometric shapes while Veronica Della Porta’s close-up photographs of cracking timber recall abstract paintings.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

JOSEK SUDEK: TOPOGRAFIA DELLE MACERIE: PRAGA 1945 19 July-7 Oct

In the immediate aftermath of world war two, the Czech photographer Josef Sudek (18961976), traversed the streets of Prague to document the damage that the war had caused in the city. This gave rise to an unusual

The Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna hosts an exhibition of about 40 works by 26 international artists, curated

by Huang Du from China and Gerardo Mosquera from Cuba.

The show’s multilingual title alludes to the “chaotic and conflictual” growth of emerging national economies, in particular the so-called BRICS nations: Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa. Globalisation and the social consequences of progress are among the themes explored by the artists who hail from Belgium, Brazil, China, Cuba, Iraqi Kurdistan, Mexico, Morocco, Panama, Russia, South Africa, South Korea, Spain and Switzerland. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM), Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

DONATELLO AT PALAZZO VENEZIA 12 July-28 April

Palazzo Venezia displays the precious terracotta bust depicting S. Lorenzo by the early Italian Renaissance sculptor Donato de’ Bardi (c.1386-1466), better known as Donatello. The S. Lorenzo bust was created for the main portal of the church of Pieve di S. Lorenzo in the town of Borgo S. Lorenzo in Mugello, located 40 kilometers north of Florence. It is thought that Donatello made the piece around 1440, the same period as he created the celebrated bronze David. Lost for centuries, the bust was only rediscovered in 2003.

In 1889 it entered the collection of the Princes of Liechtenstein, where it became misattributed.

31 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

I CONFINI DELL’IMPERO ROMANO 6 July-18 Nov

Palazzo Venezia displays S. Lorenzo by Donatello.

The 15th-century masterpiece was sold in 2003 as a “19th-century work in Renaissance style” and is currently in the collection of Paris-based collectors Peter Silverman and Kathleen Onorato.

Palazzo di Venezia, Piazza Venezia 3, tel. 0669994284, www. museopalazzovenezia.beniculturali. it.

GALLERIA VARSI GROUP SHOW 9 July-23 Sept

Galleria Varsi celebrates five years in Rome with a group exhibition featuring a rotating series of works by its stable of street artists.

Exhibiting artists include 108, Borondo, Roberto Ciredz, Daniel Muñoz “San”, Dem, Run, Gomez, Graphic Surgery, SebasVelasco, Sepe, Sten & Lex, Tellas, and Zedz.

Founded in 2013 by Massimo Scrocca, the gallery was based at Via di S. Salvatore in Campo until late 2017 when it moved to its current location. See cover this issue. Galleria Varsi, Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 0668309410, wwww.galleriavarsi.it.

Under the subheading Il Limes danubiano – Da Traiano a Marco Aurelio, this interactive exhibition at Trajan’s Markets focuses on the frontiers of the Roman empire.

The so-called Roman Limes, recognised officially by UNESCO in 2015, represent the fortified borders of the empire at its greatest extent in the second century AD. The exhibition includes video and documents relating to the Roman fortresses, military camps, villages, sanctuaries, burial areas, ports and roads built along the Danubian Limes whose territory corresponds to modern-day Slovakia, Germany, Austria and Hungary.

Trajan’s Markets, Via Quattro Novembre 94, tel.

060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

JOAQUÍN ROCA REY: LE FORME DEL MITO 5 July-4 Nov

Museo Carlo Bilotti shows 25 sculptures by Joaquín Roca Rey (1923-2004), dating from 1956 until 2001. Roca Rey is considered among the most important Peruvian sculptors of the 20th century and his works in iron, steel, bronze and marble show the influence of Henry Moore. Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia, tel. 060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

featured — James Anderson, Tim Benton, Richard Bryant, Ralph Deakin, Ivy and Ivor de Wolfe, Richard Pare, Monica Pidgeon and Edwin Smith — are British.

Their images date from the birth of the medium to the present day.

Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www. ilvittoriano.com.

LA BIBLIOTECA DEL PRINCIPE: LIBRI D’ARTISTA 22 June-30 Sept

This exhibition derives from the concept of recreating a hypothetical library of Prince Giovanni Torlonia Jr, the former resident of the Casina delle Civette, with artist’s books handmade by Vittorio Fava. There are about 20 books displayed around the Casina, made using various materials - from feathers and coins to buttons and seashells - and concerning themes such as music, alchemy and flowers.

Casina delle Civette, Musei di Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, tel.

060608, www.museivillatorlonia. it.

BRIC-à-brac | The Jumble of Growth | at Galleria Nazionale.

A...O ! / A...O ! by Tian Longyu.

ETERNAL CITY 28 June-28 Oct

The Vittoriano hosts Eternal City: Roma nella collezione fotografica del Royal Institute of British Architects, an exhibition organised in collaboration with the British School at Rome. The show, which comprises a selection of Rome images chosen from the many thousands in the collection of the Royal Institute of British Architects (RIBA), is divided into four sections: Antiquity, Modernity, Urban Landscapes and Atmospheres.

The majority of the photographers 33 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

STILL SHOWING

Casino dei Principi and Casino Nobile, the exhibition comprises around 230 works spanning six decades of the artist’s career.

Musei di Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www. museivillatorlonia.it.

MAXXI BULGARI PRIZE 1 june-28 oct

La Biblioteca del Principe: Libri d’Artista exhibition by Vittorio Fava at Villa Torlonia. Libro grande dell’Alchimia.

AFRICAN METROPOLIS. AN IMAGINARY CITY 22 June-4 Nov

Described as a “detailed overview of the artistic and cultural scene of the African continent”, this exhibition comprises the works of around 40 artists reflecting on Africa’s ongoing social and cultural changes. The exhibition includes works by Abdulrazaq Awofeso, Godfried Donkor, Nicholas Hlobo, Adboulaye Konaté, Pascale Marthine Tayou and AminaZoubir.

MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www.maxxi.art.

Peter kim 21 june-4 nov

The Museo Carlo Bilotti dedicates an exhibition to the New-York based Korean artist Peter Kim whose work addresses themes such as memory, time and the relationship between culture and nature. On display are Kim’s vessels and skeins, made from coloured threads, alongside a series of drawings, videos and a site-specific artwork on the terrace.

34 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 6 (Villa Borghese), www.museocarlobilotti.it.

MAURO STACCIOLI 13 june-30 sept

The Baths of Caracalla host the first major retrospective dedicated to the internationally celebrated Italian sculptor Mauro Staccioli who died in January aged 80. The exhibition, which is supported by the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM), includes 26 works placed around the grounds and in underground areas of the baths, with a special itinerary emphasising Staccioli’s desire for a close relationship between sculpture and the environment.

09.00-19.15. Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52.

DUILIO CAMBELLOTTI: MITO, SOGNO E REALTA’ 6 june-11 nov

Villa Torlonia dedicates a comprehensive retrospective to the Roman illustrator, painter, set and costume designer and sculptor Duilio Cambellotti (18761960). Divided between the villa’s

A new partnership between MAXXI and luxury jeweller Bulgari has resulted in the MAXXI Bulgari Prize, designed to nurture the development of young international artists. The prize replaces the former Premio MAXXI and the winner will be announced in London in October.

The three finalists are New York’s Talia Chetrit, who presents the photo and video project Amateur; Invernomuto. composed of Simone Bertuzzi and Simone Trabucchi, who present the film Calendoola; and Paris-based Diego Marcon who has created a sound installation, a sculpture and a perfume. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www. maxxi.art.

ECO E NARCISO 18 May-28 Oct

To celebrate the opening of 11 new rooms at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica at Palazzo Barberini, the museum presents a series of portraits and self-portraits from its collection alongside contemporary works from the MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo. The exhibition, described as a dialogue between ancient and modern, is staged in the museum’s Salone Pietro da Cortona, the Sala Ovale and Sala dei Paesaggi, in addition to the 11 new rooms overlooking the gardens. Comprising 750sqm of exhibition space, the rooms were occupied by the Italian military’s officers club since 1949 when the state purchased the palace.

Galleria Nazionale di Arte Antica di Roma - Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. barberinicorsini.org.

RAFFAELE DE VICO (1881-1969) ARCHITETTO E PAESAGGISTA

arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www.maxxi.art.

16 May-30 Sept

13 june-30 sept

Almost 100 works by Italian architect Raffaele de Vico (18811969) who is best remembered for his designs involving Rome’s public parks and fountains.

The plans, photographs and documents on display, all from Rome’s collections and archives, illustrate the urban and social transformation of Rome in the first half of the 20th century.

Museo di Roma at Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, www.museodiroma.it.

GLI ARCHITETTI DI ZEVI 25 April-16 Sept

Under the subheading History and counter-history of Italian architecture 1944-2000, MAXXI celebrates the legacy of Italian architect Bruno Zevi on the centenary of his birth. The exhibition comprises literature, audio and video footage highlighting Zevi’s multifaceted work as historian, designer, writer, politician, radio and television broadcaster. The show also examines the architects whose work he promoted, from Pier Luigi Nervi to Renzo Piano.

MAXXI Museo nazionale delle

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Fondazione Memmo presents _ Ruine, the first solo show in Rome of German artist Kerstin Brätsch, and _KOVO, the exhibition of the collective KAYA (Kerstin Brätsch and Debo Eilers). A new group of marbling paintings [Psychopompo] made with German master marbler Dirk Lange, is shown alongside stuccomarmo works by Brätsch, created in collaboration with the Roman artisan Walter Cipriani. KAYA’s site-specific _KOVO installation is described as a “violent collision between painting and sculpture” and comprises a series of lamps and skins. Fondazione Memmo, Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

VIAGGIO NEI FORI 21 april-11 nov

Two outdoor shows with music, light projections and historical commentary are held at Rome’s Forum of Caesar and Forum of Augustus every night. The Viaggi nell’antica Roma project uses light, images, film and animation to conjure up portrayals of life in

ETERNAL CITY at the Vittoriano. St Peter’s Square, 1961 by Monica Pidgeon. See page 33.

ancient Rome, with historically accurate commentary available in eight languages. For details see website, www.viaggioneifori.it.

ROMA CITTÀ MODERNA 29 march-28 oct

Two outdoor shows with music, Rome’s municipal gallery of modern art traces the evolution of art in the capital from the time of mayor Ernesto Nathan (19071913) up to 1968, a turbulent year of social and political strife in Europe. The exhibition comprises around 150 paintings, sculptures and prints from the city collection. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

CITAZIONI PRATICHE: FORNASETTI A PALAZZO ALTEMPS 16 Dec-9 Sept

Rome’s Palazzo Altemps celebrates its 20th anniversary by presenting an exhibition in collaboration with the Milan design studio Fornasetti. The installation involves more than 800 objects and designs from the Fornasetti archive, ranging from assemblage to ceramic cats, contrasting with the museum’s magnificent collection of ancient sculpture. Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700.

TRAIANO: COSTRUIRE L’IMPERO, CREARE L’EUROPA 29 Nov–16 Sept

Major show dedicated to Emperor Trajan on the 1,900th anniversary of his death. On display are statues, portraits and architectural decorations, alongside multimedia and interactive installations.

Mercati Traianei, Via Quattro Novembre, www.mercatiditraiano. it.

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

35 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Italy’s culture minister Alberto Bonsoli, Rome mayor Virginia Raggi and deputy mayor Luca Bergamo at the launch of the MIC card.

ART NEWS ROME’s €5 PASS FOR CITY MUSEUMS During the summer Rome introduced a new museum pass entitling the capital’s residents to unlimited access to city-run museums for 12 months from the date of purchase. The €5 MIC card is reserved exclusively for permanent residents of Rome as well as temporary residents such as students, however it is not available to tourists. The card can be purchased at municipal museums and tourist information points or via the Musei in Comune website, www. museiincomuneroma.it, for an additional €1 fee, and then picked up at one of the museums in the city network. The card, which is renewable, features the owner’s name and must be presented with identification when entering museums. The initiative was launched in July by Rome mayor Virginia Raggi and her deputy mayor and culture councillor Luca Bergamo, alongside Italy’s new culture minister, and fellow member of the Movimento 5 Stelle, Alberto Bonsoli. Bergamo, who was behind the idea, stated that the city issued 150,000 cards based on the 75,000 municipal museum tickets sold to Rome residents in 2017. The card also provides access to temporary exhibitions in city museums, with the exception of the Ara Pacis and Palazzo Braschi. For more information see the Musei in Comune website or tel. 060608.

PALATINE EXTENDS AREAS OPEN TO PUBLIC Rome has reopened a walkway leading from the southern slopes of the Palatine hill up to the Roman Forum, after an 18-year closure. The roughly 1-km route spans almost 1,500 years of history and incorporates imperial residences such as the House of Augustus and Domus Severiana. It is the latest development at the Palatine since the December 2017 appointment of Alfonsina Russo as director of the Colosseum archaeological park which includes the Roman Forum, the Domus Aurea and the Palatine, in addition to the Colosseum. In January the hill’s archaeological monuments were illuminated at night, after 13 years of darkness, thanks to a new permanent lighting system, while in March the restored Farnese 36 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Gardens, or Horti Farnesiani, reopened to the public for the first time in more than 30 years. Then in April the Colosseum archaeological park launched a new ticket known as S.U.P.E.R. (Seven Unique Places to Experience in Rome) offering access to seven Palatine sites which until now have been rarely, or never, open to the public. They are the Criptoportico Neroniano, Museo Palatino, Aula Isiaca - Loggia Mattei, Casa di Augusto, Casa di Livia, Tempio di Romolo, S. Maria Antiqua. For details see Coopculture website, www. coopculture.it.

ENCOURAGING START FOR PALAZZO MERULANA Palazzo Merulana, the new museum hosting the important early 20th-century art collection of the Cerasi Foundation, is experiencing a “visitor boom” since opening in Rome’s Esquilino district on 11 May. During its first two months the museum welcomed 9,000 visitors, delighting Claudio Cerasi who, along with his wife Elena, built up the foundation’s collection. Cerasi says he wants the museum to be a place “a bit like my home, a space where you can relax, converse, pass some time without rushing.” For details about the museum and upcoming events see website, www.palazzomerulana.it.

ROME ART WEEK DIRECTORY A directory of the capital’s contemporary art spaces has been published by the organisers of Rome Art Week (RAW), ahead of the third edition of the event which takes place from 22-27 October. The book features 120 venues connected to the annual festival of free cultural events in Roman galleries and art studios. The directory, in both Italian and English, is on sale in bookshops in Rome. For details of upcoming RAW events see website, www.romeartweek.com.

Andy Devane

OF ROMA Where food lovers and chefs feast together AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA 20th > 23 rd SEPTEM BER 2018

Share | Experiment | Enjoy | Taste info & tickets on www.tasteofroma.it in partnership with

media partner

in collaboration with

37 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

a project by

S. Cecilia celebrates the 90th birthday of Ennio Morricone on 27 September.

CLASSICAL MILAN AND TURIN MITO SETTEMBRE MUSICALE 3-19 SEPT This special September music festival involves the two northern cities of Milan and Turin with some 125 concerts of classical and contemporary music. The theme this year is Dance, and will also involve the Torinodanza festival (see Dance section on page 42). The music selected for the concerts, performed in both cities, is a carefully chosen mix of well-known and the less wellknown pieces. The vision of the festival is to bring music to all, not just to a concert-going elite.

The ticket prices are reasonable (from €5-€30) and the locations for the concerts are unusual but easily accessible. There are several concerts each day starting at 17.00 and going on until late. For the full programme in both cities see website, www. mitosettembremusica.it.

38 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ROME ACCADEMIA S.CECILIA NOVANT’ENNIO 27 SEPT

As the title suggests the S. Cecilia orchestra celebrates the 90th birthday of Ennio Morricone.

The great Italian composer will be conducting some of his own music as well as pieces composed specially for the occasion by other great Italian composers of cinema music Nicola Piovani and Dario Marianelli as well as by the contemporary composer Salvatore Sciarrino. There is also music by Petrassi (who was Morricone’s professor of composition), Stravinsky and Bach. Because of the expected popularity of this particular concert (Morricone’s concerts are always a sell-out) the S. Cecilia website specifies that the only authorised ticket dealers are TicketOne, the ticket office at the Auditorium Parco della Musica and S. Cecilia’s head office in Via Vittoria 6. Auditorium Parco della

Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

UGO UGHI 3 OCT

This concert marks the launch of Ughi’s new recording Note d’Europa by Sony Classical. Ughi performs some of the pieces on the new CD togther with the Filarmonici di Roma. Ughi has chosen music from seven European countries, Austria, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Poland and Spain. Sala Sinopoli.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

OTHER VENUES Some of Rome’s English speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio del Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals in September. S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts.

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Kirina will be premiered in Italy at Romaeuropa Festival.

DANCE MILAN

BOLSHOI BALLET TOUR

TEATRO aLLA SCALA

LA BAYADERA BY MINKUS

L’HISTOIRE DU MANON 17 OCT-2 NOV

Svetlana Zakharova and Roberto Bolle dance in La Scala’s production of L’historie du Manon on 17, 19 and 24 Oct. The choreography is by Kenneth MacMillan and dates back to his time in the 1970s as the artistic direct at the Royal Ballet. Although he was inspired by Massenet’s music he did not use the music from the opera but from several of Massenet’s other works, such as Cendrillon, Don Chisciotte and Cleopatre, as well pieces by other composers. In 2011 the music was rearranged and re-orchestrated

by Martin Yates. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

7-10 SEPT

This ballet which was originally choreographed by Minkus is revived in a new version by Yuri Grigorvich who has dominated Russian ballet for the last three decades and has been the choreographer of the Bolshoi’s major innovative ballets since the 1950s. Last year La Scala performed in Moscow and now the Bolshoi is returning the visit. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

THE TAMING OF THE SHREW

BY SHOSTAKOVICH 11-13 SEPT

This work, inspired by Shakespeare’s comedy, was commissioned by the Bolshoi in 2014 and created by JeanChristophe Maillot of the Ballets

du Monte Carlo. The music was selected from scores Shostakovich wrote for the cinema. It is part of the Bolshoi tour at La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA SLEEPING BEAUTY 15-23 SEPT

Tchaikovsky’s popular ballet is the last in the 2017-2018 season and is a Rome opera theatre production, conducted by Nicola Brochot with choreography by Jean-Guillaume Bart. Marianela Nuñez, the principal dancer with the Royal Ballet and Carlo Di Lanno principal at the San Francisco Ballet are the guest artists on 15 and 16 Sept. This 41 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Noetic by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui opens Torinodanza.

version by French choreographer Bart was first performed at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma in February 2017. Bart, who was the etoile at the Paris opera until he became full-time choreographer in 2008, admits that his is a traditional rendering of the Russian work. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 19 sept-25 oct

As usual the festival is a feast for lovers of contemporary dance and there is much here from choreographers and dancers that you won’t have seen elsewhere in Italy. 19-22 Sept is the Italian premiere of Kirina by Serge-AiméCoulibaly (choreographer), Rokia Traoré (musician) Felwine Sarr (author of the book Afrotopia), a cross of African and western imagery. Kirina is the location in today’s Guinea that saw the birth of the Mandinka empire in west Africa. It has profound symbolic significance for the foundation of west African culture, myths and migration stories. 24-26 Sept.

Love Chapter 2 by Sharon Eyal (choreographer with Batsheva Dance), Gai Behar, animator of Israeli night life, Ori Lichtik, founder of Israeli techno rave with the L-E-V dance company. The work explores the themes of love 42 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

impossible. See also Torinodanza below. 29-30 Sept. #minaret is a work by Lebanese choreographer Omar Rajeh inspired by the city of Aleppo, its culture, its mosque and its destruction.

Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina. 4-5 Oct. Eingeweide created by Marco Donnarumma and Margherita Pevere, explores the possibilities when robot and human merge and struggle to form a new hybrid identity. Mattatoio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4. For all details see www.romaeuropa.net.

TURIN TORINODANZA 10 SEPT- 1 DEC

The theme of this year’s contemporary dance festival in Turin is based on Leonard Cohen’s unforgettable song Dance me to the end of love. Torinodanza explores the overlapping disciplines of dance, music, theatre, image and video, all now coalescing in contemporary dance. The festival opens on 10 Sept with two Italian premieres, created by Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, Noetic and Icon with Gotesborgoperans Danscompani and in collaboration with the British sculptor Antony Gormley.

In Noetic, which was premiered

in 2014, Gormley examines ideas about the relationship of the human body to space. He also explores the liberation of his sculpture from space and time thanks to the way the dancers use his works in slightly changing ways during each performance. In Icon Larbi examines the making and breaking of icons and the reconstruction of new ones out of the old. He uses clay, a tough but malleable material, rather like a dancer’s body, as one of the key elements in his choreography to indicate the universal message of constant change. 13-16 Sept.

Famillie Choisie. Four dancers choose to form a family to show that family is something you can choose not just something that you are born into. The dancers work out daily situations that occur in the life of every family.

At La Veneria Reale. 14-15 Sept.

Bach Project is a collaboration between Torinodanza, Mito Settembremusica and Aterballetto.

A new work Domus Aurea, by choreographer Diego Tortelli, and Jiri Kyrilan’s 1990 piece Sarabanda, are danced to re-orchestrated music

by Bach. At Teatro Carignano. 17 Sept. Erodiade, a reworking of the 1993 choreography by Julie Ann Lanzilotti and the artist Alghieri Boetti reinterprets the role of Herodias, the wife of Herod in the beheading of John the Baptist. At Teatro Carignano. 21-22 Sept. The Great Tamer. Greek choreographer Dimitris Papaioannou explores the human search for light and darkness through his own passions and against the background of the ancient myth of Persephone, as well as Renaissance and contemporary art. At Fonderie Limone Moncalier. 29 and 30 Sept. OCD Love, inspired by Neil Hilborn’s slam poem OCD (Obsessive Compulsion Disorder), and Love Chapter Two, see Sharon Eyal in Romaeuropa festival above.

At Fonderie Limone Moncalier, www.torinodanzafestival.it.

The Diary of One who Disappeared for Romaeuropa on 6 October.

the 22-scene song cycle by Czech composer Leoš Janáček (6 Oct).

There are also numerous children’s events, under the umbrella REF Kids, as well as the ninth edition of the parallel futuristic section Digital Life, which examines the interaction between visual arts and technology.

For programme and tickets see website, www.romaeuropa.net.

taste of roma 20-23 Sept

festivals ARTCITY 23 May-22 Sept

The cultural festival ARTCITY comprises more than 150 events incorporating art, architecture, audiovisual, dance, literature, music and theatre, at museums and cultural sites in the Lazio region.

The festival comprises two separate initiatives: Sere d’Arte, a programme of classical and Baroque music at Castel S. Angelo until 13 September; and In Musica features concerts by top-class musicians at museums and archaeological sites in Rome and across the Lazio region until 22 September. For programmes see ARTCITY website, www.art-city.it.

ARTESCIENZA 10-23 Sept

This festival, which explores the connections between science and the contemporary arts, resumes after a summer break. The 2018 programme offers interactive meetings, masterclasses, concerts and performances under the theme Segni d’arte e identità at Auditorium Parco della Musica. For programme see website, www.artescienza.info/it.

ROmaeuropa festival 19 sept-25 nov

The 33rd edition of Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival is a particularly international affair

this year, with 311 artists from 24 countries contributing to the programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music and technology.

Under the title Between Worlds, the festival continues to expand, with 27 venues across Rome hosting 68 projects, 168 shows, 38 national premieres and more than 60 companies of which 40 are collaborating with Romaeuropa for the first time. Artistic director Fabrizio Grifasi describes the 2018 programme as a “World Festival”, crossing themes, generations and borders. Divided into categories Stories, Visions and Sounds, highlights this year include the opening show Kirina by choreographer SergèAime Coulibaly and his Faso Dance Théatre from Burkina Faso (see Dance page 41), The Congo Tribunal film presented by Swiss director Milo Rau and the International Institute of Political Murder (8 Nov), or Minefield in which Argentine director Lola Arias stages a confrontation between Argentine and British veterans of the Falklands / Malvinas war (16-18 Nov). Fans of Englishlanguage theatre will certainly be looking forward to the Italian premiere of The Prisoner by Peter Brook with Marie Hèlène Estienne (11-20 Oct, see Theatre page 48), and there is musical theatre with The diary of One who Disappeared by Dutch director Ivo Van Hove with Toneelgroep Amsterdam, based on

The seventh edition of the Taste of Roma festival takes place once again in the elevated gardens of the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The capital’s answer to Taste, the world’s foremost restaurant festival, the fourday gourmet event showcases the best of Roman haute cuisine. Chefs from 18 of Rome’s top restaurants will provide cooking demonstrations as well as preparing signature dishes, with 70 of them available at affordable prices. Visitors can enjoy wine-tastings with sommeliers and public encounters with noted chefs and food professionals, all within an informal, open-air atmosphere.

There are numerous interactive events and activities, many of which are aimed at children. See website, www.tasteofroma.it.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30.

SPring attitude festival 4-6 oct

Under the billing “Fall is the new Spring”, organisers have moved Martin Scorsese will receive a Lifetime Achievement Award at the Rome Film Fest.

43 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

the Spring Attitude Festival from its usual May schedule to an autumn date. The three-day festival dedicated to electronic music and its emerging sounds returns to Rome with its eighth edition. This year’s festival line-up includes important Italian and international names such as Max Cooper, The Maghreban, Jeremy Underground and Laurel Halo. Events are scheduled to take place at the Mattatoio in Testaccio and the Ex Dogana in S. Lorenzo.

For programme see website, www. springattitude.it.

Rome film fest 18-28 oct

Organisers of the Rome Film Fest have released a sneak preview of the upcoming festival which will be held at the Auditorium Parco della Musica and other venues around the capital. Acclaimed Italian-American director Martin Scorsese will receive the annual festival’s Lifetime Achievement Award and take part in a public discussion dedicated to Italian cinema. Other international figures

from the world of cinema engaging in public conversations include US actress Sigourney Weaver and Italian director Giuseppe Tornatore.

The 2018 programme also features retrospectives dedicated to English actor Peter Sellers and French director Maurice Pialat, and an exhibition on Italian actor Marcello Mastroianni. The festival’s complete line-up will be announced on 5 October. For details see website, www.romacinemafest.it.

Taste of Roma returns to the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

opera

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ALI BABA E I 40 LADRONI

BY CHERUBINI 1-27 sept

The students of La Scala Academy will perform Cherubini’s Ali Baba e i 40 Ladroni which has not been seen at La Scala since the 1960s.

44 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

This production gives the students of La Scala academy a chance to perform an opera under the direction of Liliana Cavani and Paolo Carignani conductor.

Ali Baba has not been staged at La Scala since 1963 and this is a re-working of Cherubini’s final work which was first staged at

the Paris opera in 1833. Berloiz then described it as “one of the feeblest things Cherubini ever wrote.” It was rarely performed until La Scala resurrected it in 1963 but even then it did not have much success. It will therefore be interesting to see what the academy students make of the work under Cavani’s guidance. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ERNANI

BY VERDI 29 sept-25 oct

This is a difficult Verdi opera for conductor and singers alike and although it is not often performed some of its music is said to herald later Verdi operas, such as Rigoletto, Il Trovatore, Un Ballo in Maschera. Adam Fischer conducts Francesco Meli in the part of Ernani, Ailyn Peres as Elvira and Simon Piazzola as Don Carlo and Ildar Abdrazakov as Don Ruy (see Attila right). Director Sven-Eric Bechtolf, who is better known for his Wagner productions, is now taking on his second Verdi work.

Bechtolf works almost exclusively with the Vienna and Zurich opera houses and the Salzburg festival but his direction of the La Scala’s academy students last September for their annual production led to what critics called a “stunning” fairy-tale interpretation of Humperdinck’s Hansel and Gretel. Bechtolf has a close connection with La Scala’s present director Alexander Pereira through their work together at the Salzburg festival. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

la finata giardiniera 8-29 oct

La Scala orchestra will tackle its first Mozart opera on period baroque instruments as part of its project dedicated to the interpretation of 18th-century works on instruments of the time. Diego Fasolis conducts this Glyndebourne festival staging

by Frederic Wake-Walker which will also be broadcast live on RAI Radio 3 on 8 Oct and RAI 5 TV on 11 Oct. Mozart’s La Finata Giardiniera has only been performed once in Milan, in 1970 at La Piccola Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

elektra by strauss 4-29 nov

Elektra will be conducted by Christoph von Dohnányi who at 88 returns to conduct an opera at La Scala for the first since 1977. He will also be conducting Mozart’s Idomeneo at La Scala in May next year. Patrice Chereau’s staging of Elektra is a coproduction with Aix en Provence festival, the Met in New York, Unter Den Linden Berlin, as well as Barcelona and Helsinki opera houses. This was the one of the last works produced by Chereau before he died in 2013. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

attila by verdi 7 dec 11 dec- 8 jan

Verdi’s opera Attila opens the new La Scala season on 7 Dec with Riccardo Chailly conducting and in a new production by David Livermore. Ildar Abdrazakov sings the role of Attila and Saioa Hermandez as Odabella.

Abdrazakov has sung the role many times and has recently performed at La Scala in Ernani (see above) but Hermandez is new to the role and to La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

rome Teatro dell’0pera di roma DIE ZAUberflote 9-17 oct

Mozart’s opera is conducted

by Henrik Nánási and directed

by Barrie Kosky and Suzanne Andrade. This was one of the many new productions that Nánási conducted while he was the general music director of the Komische Oper Berlin for five years from 2012-2017. During that period the opera house won both the Opera House of the Year 2103 award and the Opera Company of the Year 2015. He was one of the alternating conductors of La Boheme at the Teatro dell’Opera in June this year.

LE NOZZE DI FIGARO my mozart 30 oct-11 nov

Mozart’s opera is conducted Morzart’s Marriage of Figaro ends the season at Teatro dell’Opera, with a new production by Graham Vick, conducted by Stefano Montanari. Vick first produced this opera at Glyndebourne in 2000 (and it has since been listed as one of the top ten Glyndebourne productions) so it will be interesting to see what new ideas he has for it nearly two decades later. www.operaroma.it.

Liliana Cavani will direct the students of La Scala Academy in a production of Ali Baba e i 40 Ladroni.

45 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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The Japanese Cultural Institute devotes an exhibition to Fosco Maraini. Geisha, Tokyo, 1985. Fosco Maraini/ Archivio Privato.

ACADEMIES casa di goethe 30 May-23 oct

Casa di Goethe Rome presents an exhibition by contemporary Austrian artist Robert Gschwantner whose work focuses on the intervention of man on natural environments, with a particular focus on water landscapes such as lakes, islands and canals.

Gschwantner’s exhibition is dedicated primarily to two ancient but artificial landscapes: the Marmore Waterfalls near Terni in Umbria and the Portus port (Lago di Traiano) at Fiumicino near Rome.

The artist’s “image objects” are made from transparent plastic tubes, containing water collected on-site, as well as mirrors which reflect landscapes by the classical painter Johann Christian Reinhart. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

japanese cultural institute 30 May-23 oct

The Japanese Cultural Institute dedicates an exhibition to the celebrated Italian photographer,

anthropologist, ethnologist, writer, mountaineer and academic Fosco Maraini (1912-2004) who is best remembered for his work in Japan and Tibet. The exhibition includes more than 40 photographs of Japan, on loan from private collections and the Alinari Archives, alongside personal memories of Maraini by his daughters Dacia and Toni.

Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel.

0694844655, www.jfroma.it.

and which currently celebrates its 145th year in Rome. Real Academia de España a Roma, Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, www.accademiaspagna.org.

Processi 145 at the Spanish Academy.

Sin título by Roberto Coromina.

spanish academy in rome 20 june-16 oct

The Spanish Academy Rome presents Processi 145, an exhibition of projects and works created by the academy’s Spanish, Italian and Latin American artists during their residency in the 2017/2018 season. This year’s 23 resident artists, winners of the annual competition overseen by Spain’s foreign ministry, were tasked with creating a project dedicated to Italy and in particular to Rome, from classical to contemporary.

The exhibition also offers the opportunity to visit the Real Academia de España, which is normally closed to the public 47 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

La Tempesta (The Tempest) at Silvano Toti Globe Theatre from 21 Sept-7 Oct.

THEATRE SHAKESPEARE AT THE GLOBE 27 June-14 Oct

Rome’s Shakespearean festival at the Silvano Toti Globe Theatre celebrates its 15th anniversary and this year for the first time comes under the umbrella of the city’s Teatro di Roma network.

The four-month festival in Villa Borghese is once again under the artistic direction of popular Roman actor Gigi Proietti and includes an English-language performance.

The season continues with La bisbetica domata (The Taming of the Shrew) directed by Loredana Scaramella (31 Aug-16 Sept); La Tempesta (The Tempest) directed

by Daniele Salvo (21 Sept-7 Oct); and concluding with The Merchant of Venice, an original language version by the London-based Bedouin Shakespeare Company, directed by Chris Pickles (10-14 Oct). There are also several poetic and musical projects including Sonetti D’Amore, Playing Shakespeare and William and Elizabeth, as well as a short film competition on the theme Teatro secondo me, overseen by Proietti and selected by an expert panel. Rome’s Globe Theatre is a full-scale timber 48 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

reproduction of Shakespeare’s Globe, copied from the original oak and thatch designs, and is almost identical to the one that stands on London’s South Bank.

The festival attracts around 65,000 spectators each year, and all shows are in Italian with the exception of the final production.

Largo Acqua Felix, Villa Borghese, www.globetheatreroma.com.

short theatre 5-15 sept

Now in its 13th year, this daring initiative is born of a collaboration between festivals, embassies and cultural institutes, and is supported by regional authorities.

Under the title Provocare Realtà, the 2018 programme will comprise avant-garde theatre, dance, music, performance, prose, dj sets and workshops, but details were unavailable at the time of going to press. Short Theatre takes place at several venues this year including La Pelanda (Mattatoio), Biblioteca Vallicelliana, Teatro Argentina and Teatro India. For programme see website, www.shorttheatre. org.

rome’s comedy 28 sept

Rome’s Comedy Club returns after the summer with its tenth season and 85th show. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, with the show starting at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@gmail.com.

Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

the prisoner by peter brook 11-20 oct

Romaeuropa Festival presents the Italian premiere of The Prisoner, the latest creation by celebrated British playwright Peter Brook, at Teatro Vittoria in the Testaccio district of Rome. The play, which revolves around a man sitting alone in front of a giant prison in the desert, examines the concept of redemption and asks what justice means in a world “where prisoners and guards face each other with the same questions.”

The production is in English with Italian surtitles. For details

see Romaeuropa website, www. romaeuropa.net. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065740170.

GIudizio unversale: Michelangelo and the secrets of the sistine chapel

Billed as an “extraordinary journey”, this cutting-edge production immerses the audience in the world of Michelangelo’s masterpiece in the Sistine Chapel, through a mixture of live performances

and spectacular stage effects. The production involves the history of art narrated through a mix of technology and live entertainment.

Created in consultation with the Vatican Museums and with music

by Sting, the 60-minute show features immersive 270-degree 3D projections and is in both Italian and English. The voice of Michelangelo is provided by wellknown Roman actor Pierfrancesco Favino. For details see website, www.giudiziouniversale.com.

Auditorium della Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4.

MARATONA DI PETER PAN 7 OCT

SPort gardens

The Rome-based Peter Pan Onlus association, which provides support for families with children suffering from cancer, is holding its annual Peter Pan marathon on Sunday 7 October at the Villa Pamphilj park. Now in its 20th edition, this year’s event is open to individuals and groups, and there are two runs: a 4.2-km

Romaeuropa stages the Italian premiere of The Prisoner by Peter Brook, in English.

non-competitive run for adults, and children’s races (aged under 11). The event is always a fun day out for all the family, and is particularly geared towards kids, but more importantly the funds raised go towards sustaining the Casa di Peter Pan in Trastevere.

Exact times and meeting place will be published nearer the time on the website, www. maratonadipeterpan.it.

ecumenical garden 8-22 sept

The gardeners behind Rome’s Ecumenical Garden, hidden behind the monastery of S. Gregorio al Celio, are staging open days on Saturdays 8 and 22 September, from 09.00 until midday. The garden, tucked away between the Circus Maximus and Villa Celimontana, has become a tangible symbol of ecumenism in Rome in recent years. Piazza di S. Gregorio al Celio 1, www. ecumenicalgarden.blogspot.com.

49 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city.

There are also concerts in many of the churches and sometimes in the museums.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season starts on 15 Oct Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it. All concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica. The new season starts on 5 Oct Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com RomeConcerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are at Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others are at the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Roma Tre, Via Ostienze 234, www.r30.org There are often concerts, festivals and opera recitals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www.allsaintsrome.org Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com 50 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC THEATR CINEMA VENUES

c

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

c

inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 Barberini, Piazza 0686391361

Barberini

24-26,

tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

068553485 Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

066861068 Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel.

0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel.

065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel.

Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

t

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel.

14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel.

065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel.

PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel.

Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiTeatro stina.it Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. www.teatrovascello.it 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel.

065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

WANTED junior inROME Roman Topography at St Stephen’s School in Rome One of the signature courses offered at St Stephen’s School, Roman Topography is the grade 9 history course in which the history, art, architecture and culture of ancient Rome are studied through literary sources, archaeological remains, artefacts, inscriptions and coins. Since our school is located in the centre of Rome, the lessons are enriched by regular field trips to archaeological sites, museums and monuments. The course encourages students to appreciate the rich environment in which they live and to find out how the ancient city helped form the Rome of today. One of the highlights of the course is a project where the students write a research paper about a monument of their choice and construct a 3D model of the same monument. The teachers who taught the course

52 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

in 2017-2018 are Dr Rebecca Raynor, Ms Marije van der Vorm and Ms Inge Weustink.

Since interdisciplinary collaboration is a major component of the St. Stephen’s curriculum, the various departments often work on joint projects. In Liana Miuccio’s photography class, students are taught how to use the manual functions of the school’s 35mm digital cameras for visual storytelling.

They are also taught how to enhance the images in Photoshop. In the images featured on these pages, the photography students were given the assignment of photographing their fellow students’ Roman Topography 3D models using shallow depth of field to decontextualise the models. This successful collaboration between the Classics, History and Art departments at St Stephen’s teaches students the important connections between the disciplines they study.

Text by teachers Inge Weustink and Liana Miuccio.

The 3D models are made by: Page 52, clockwise from top left: Pietu Pekkarinen: Hadrian’s Wall by Edoardo Brunori Saif Qubain: Cloaca Maxima by Lorenzo Zingone Marcelino Pichon-Marquette: Hadrian’s Wall

by Edoardo Brunori Maximilian Kienzle: Garden of the House of the Vettii in Pompeii by Emilia Caprazli Page 53, top to bottom: Jakia Farazy: Hadrian’s Wall by Brunori Jason Link: Hadrian’s Wall by Brunori Daisy Joy Halliway: aqueduct by Cicco Emilia Caprazli: Hadrian’s Wall by Brunori

Edoardo Edoardo Luca Di Edoardo

St Stephen’s, Via Aventina 3, tel. 065750605, www.sssrome.it

JUNIOR Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

53 | April 2018 • Wanted in Rome

54 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

TONNARELLI CACIO E PEPE

By Kate Zagorski Cacio e Pepe is a classic Roman pasta tradition which, until recently, was somewhat unknown outside of Italy. However, the last couple of years have seen the international food scene embrace this simple dish which was born from humble necessity, giving it a more glamorous lease of life. The dish originated in the Lazio countryside where shepherds would pack food to carry with them on the long journeys to move their flocks. Alongside cured meat products they would also take chunks of the local aged sheep milk cheese (which did not need refrigeration), handmade flour and water pasta that could be eaten dried for carbohydrates, and black pepper to stimulate warmth. These three ingredients eventually involved into the pasta dish we know and love, and the origins underline once and for all that there is no place for butter or oil in the authentic recipe.

Nowadays cacio e pepe is usually served with a long, square-cut, fresh egg pasta called tonnarelli which gives an added richness to the dish and speeds up cooking time, but normal dried spaghetti can also be used. As with most seemingly easy recipes, the trick is in the timing and testing the perfect ratio of ingredients. Sadly, overcooking and not enough mixing will often result in a sticky, unpleasant final dish rather than the silky, creamy cheese sauce with a punch of pepper which constitutes the perfect result. The recipe below utilises a little-known trick of heating the pepper in a pan of water to infuse the flavour before finishing the cooking of the pasta in the peppery liquid. Extra starchy cooking water and continuous mixing of the cheese should ensure the right consistency but, as any Roman will tell you, practice makes perfect.

Ingredients for 2 people 250g fresh tonnarelli 70g pecorino romano, finely grated

190ml cold water 26 twists freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil.

In a separate frying pan, heat 190ml of cold water and twist in the black pepper with a pepper mill. Cook on a medium heat until it just begins to simmer.

Cook the tonnarelli in the saucepan of boiling water as per the packet instructions but drain one minute before the end of the suggested cooking time, keeping aside the starchy pasta water.

Place the tonnarelli in the frying pan of peppery water and cook for the final minute, stirring well. Gradually add in 1-2 cups of the starchy pasta water as you go.

When the pasta is al dente remove the pan from the heat and quickly add the pecorino, stirring immediately. Toss the pan for 30 seconds, building up the creamy sauce. If the mixture is too dry add a little more cooking water and just keep stirring.

Serve immediately with an extra sprinkling of pecorino romano and another good crack of black pepper.

Rome’s reputation reputation as an important toto grow with new murals by important Italian and Rome's importantstreet streetart artcapital capitalcontinues continues grow with new murals by important Italian international street artists appearing all theall time. the works located in the suburbs, often far often from the and international street artists appearing the Most time.of Most of the are works are located in the suburbs, far centre. is where Rome’s main streetmain art projects and projects murals. and murals. from theHere centre.

Hereto is find where to find Rome’s street art Esquilino Esquilino Murals by

by Alice Murals Alice Pasquini, Pasquini, Gio Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa Diamond.

Casa dell’Architettura, dell'Architettura, Piazza MafredoFanti Fanti47.

47.

Piazza Manfredo Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. M.A.G.R. (Museo (Museo Abusivo The Abusivo Gestitodai daiRom), Rom), aa project Gestito project by byFrench French street artist is located in a street artist SethSeth is located in a former former soap on factory on Via Antonio soap factory Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite opposite Ostiense's Ostiense’s landmark Avoga-dro, Gasometro.

For details see landmark Gasometro.

For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove e dell’Altrove Museo dell’Altro di diMetropoliz Metropoliz This former meat meatfactory factory This former in thein the outskirts of Rome now a outskirts of Rome is nowisa street street art museum well home as being art museum as well as as being to home to squatting some 200 squatting some 200 migrants.

The migrants.

The Museo dell’Altro di e Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove dell’Altrove or MAAM, Metropoliz, di or Metropoliz, MAAM, is only open ison Saturdays, only open on Saturdays, and features the work and features the artists work including of more of more than 300 than 300 artists including Edoardo Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Sten&Lex, Pablo Echaurren and Pablo Echaurren and Borondo. See Borondo. See MAAM Facebook page MAAM Facebook page for details. for details. Via Prenestina 913.

Via Prenestina 913.

Ostiense Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Porto Fluviale.

Fluviale.

Fish’n’Kids AgostinoIacurci.

Iacurci.Via Via Fish’n'Kids bybyAgostino del Porto Fluviale. del Porto Fluviale.

WallofofFame FamebybyJBJBRock.

Rock.Via Viadei dei Wall Magazzini Generali.

Magazzini Generali.

Shelley

by Ostiense Ozmo. underpass, Ostiense Shelley

by Ozmo. underpass, Via Ostiense. Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato Blu, Via Palazzo occupato

by Blu, by Via Ostiense.

Ostiense.

Pigneto Pigneto to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Tributes Tributes Pier Paolo Pasolini71.by Maupal, Mr.to Klevra and Omino Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

56 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via Via Fanfulla Fanfulla da da Lodi.

Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Fortebraccio.

2501 mural on Via Blu

by Sten Blu Landscape Landscape by Sten & & Lex. Lex. Via Via Francesco Baracca.

Francesco Baracca.

Prati Prati Anna Magnaniportrait portrait

by Diavù.

Anna Magnani

by Diavù.

Nuovo Nuovo MercatoViaTrionfale, Via Mercato Trionfale, Andrea Doria.

Andrea Doria. theSabotino. bear by Daniza the bear byDaniza ROA. Via ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via The Roadkill

by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.

Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Theseus stabbing the Bembo.

Minotaur by Pixelpancho.

Via Pietro Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Tunnel byMure.

Mr THOMS and Pistone. murals Via Decio Gio Decio Mure. Via del NidoPistone. di Vespe Via

by Lucamaleonte.

Nido didel Vespe

by Lucamaleonte. Via Monte Grano. del Monte Baby Hulkdel byGrano.

Ron English. Via dei Baby PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Murals

by Blu. Via Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Palombini dè Pazzi).

Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia

by Zerocalcare.

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

Metro B station.

S. Basilio S. Basilio SanBa features features large-scale large-scale works works on on SanBa the façades façades of in the of social-housing social-housingblocks blocks the the disadvantaged north-east suburb of in disadvantaged north-east S. Basilio Rebibbia.

TheRebibbia. regenerasuburb ofnear S. Basilio near tion regenera-tion project includesproject works by Italian The includes artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu works

by Italian artists Agostino alongsideHitnes Spain's and Liqen.

Maiolati, Iacurci, BluViaalongside Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Spain’s Liqen.

Via Maiolati, Via Via Treia.

Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

S. Giovanni mural by Lucamaleonte. Via S.Totti Giovanni Apuliamural cornerby of Via Farsalo.

Totti Lucamaleonte.

Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini.

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Via Anton Ludovico.

Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo Lorenzo S. Alice Pasquini.

ViaSabelli. dei Sabelli.

Alice Pasquini.

Via dei Feminicidemural mural Elisa Feminicide

by Elisaby Caracciolo.

Caracciolo.

Via Dei Sardi.

Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo. Via Viadei deiVolsci Volsci159.

159.

Borondo.

Mural by

by Agostino AgostinoIacurci Iacurci on Mural on the the Istituto Superiore di Lattanzio, Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro Pietro S. UmaCabra Cabra Bordalo II. Stazione byby Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Uma di S. Clivo Pietro, Clivo del di Gallo.

Monte del Pietro, di Monte Gallo.

Testaccio Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani.

Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via #KindComments

by Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market.

Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk.

Via Antonio Tempesta.

Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta.

Etnik.

Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51.

Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Pavoni.

Ludovico Tom SawyerPavoni.

by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni.

Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini

by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia

by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante.

Former Cinema Impero, Impero, Acqua Bullicante.

Hostia byVia Nicola Verlato.

Via Galeazzo Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Alessi.

GaleazzoVia Alessi.

Herakut.

Capua 14.

Herakut.Iacurci.

Via Capua 14. Oddi 6.

Agostino Via Muzio Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia Tor Big Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m Themurals Big City Life scheme features tall by 22 Italian and interna14-m street tall artists murals by 22MrItalian tional including Klevra, and Gaia interna-tional street artists Seth, and Jerico. The idea was to including the Mr area's Klevra, Seth, and transform blocks of Gaia flats into Jerico.

The art ideamuseum. was to transform an open-air Via Tor the area’s blocks of flats into openMarancia.

For full details see an website, air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.

For full details see website, www. bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

57 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Osteria delle coppelle Roma, Piazza delle Coppelle 54, tel. 0645502826 Pianostrada Rome, Via delle Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296

Indirizzi

Terrazza S. Pancrazio, Via di Porta S. Pancrazio 32, tel. 0687770139

Trattoria da Teo Roma, Piazza dei Ponziani 7, tel. 065818355 Marzapane al Caffè dell’Opera Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, tel. 0648160504 Madre Roma, Largo Angelicum 1, tel. 066789046 The Corner Marco Martini, Viale Aventino 121, tel. 0645597350 Ristoro degli Angeli Roma, Via Luigi Orlando 2, tel. 0651436020 Osteria Siciliana Rome, Via del Leoncino 28, Tel. 0668805283 Flavio al Velavevodetto, Via di Monte Testaccio 97, tel. 065744194

58 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Eating outside in Rome: the ten best restaurants with terraces and gardens Our favourite restaurants and trattorie with terraces and gardens, where you can eat outdoors in Rome during the warmer months.

GIANICOLO – A COOL HANGOUT Yugo a S. Pancrazio Different plates of fusion cuisine are served on the S. Pancrazio terrace, a little north of Trastevere. With a menu curated by award-winning chef Anthony Genovese, here you can tuck into raw dishes, carpacci, tartare and ceviche, which are all accompanied by refreshing cocktails.

IN THE CENTRE – A TRENDY NIGHT OUT Osteria delle Coppelle Lunch or dinner of traditional but creative first and second courses. There’s saltimbocca alla romana with speck and fried sage, and you can also choose between pizza, bruschette, home made pastries (€6) or a huge salad (from €9 to €12), with the option to eat outside in the piazza.

TRASTEVERE – A GOURMET MEAL Pianostrada An elegantly styled restaurant with a lovely courtyard-garden, a great long bar and an exposed kitchen. You can try anything from fried antipasti (€10-13.50), salads, gourmet panini (€12.50-14.50), and excellent bread that’s made in house. We loved the artichokes alla giudìa, and the fig and sun dried tomato focaccia. Mon closed.

TRASTEVERE – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Trattoria da Teo Serving traditional Roman cuisine, such as excellent amatriciana, broccoli and skate soup, coda alla vaccinara, roast lamb, or even a fresh plate of fish. There are ten tables inside and a beautiful veranda in the piazza. The amatriciana costs €9 while a single courgette flower (which are absolutely excellent) costs €1.50. Sun closed.

CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL Marzapane all’Opera The menu at Marzapane is an array of traditional Italian dishes made with fresh ingredients and is particularly fish-focused. We enjoyed the tomato bread with jamon from Bellota (€13), insalata di lingua (salad with tongue) seasoned with turmeric, capers and mustard, mezze maniche pasta with amatriciana sauce (e19). Mon closed.

MONTI – GOURMET PIZZA AND CEVICHE Madre With a beautiful outdoor space, Madre is one of the coolest hangouts in Monti. Gourmet pizza and ceviche (€18) are the most popular dishes and they are indeed delicious. However prices are quite a bit higher than average – a Margherita with buffalo mozzarella costs €15, while La Roja, with prawns and smoked buffalo mozzarella, costs €26.

AVENTINO – A GOURMET MEAL The Corner Marco Martini At this award-winning restaurant and cocktail bar created by Marco Martini, you can dine in the beautiful terraced garden with a Liberty-style decor and sit yourself down on one of the couches or sink into an armchair. For lunch it is possible to order from one to three dishes costing between €10, €18 and €25; while for dinner there are different tasting menus costing from €95 to €200.

GARBATELLA – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Ristoro degli Angeli All ingredients come from the local Garbatella market and the menu boasts quite a few vegetarian recipes. For the first course there’s the focaccina with lard (made from organic Tuscan pork) for €8 while for your second course, try the rolled rhombus fish filled with ginger-seasoned vegetables (€20). Sun closed.

IN THE CENTRE – A GOURMET MEAL Osteria Siciliana This little piece of Sicily seats around 60 people, half indoors and the rest outside. You could begin with stuffed artichokes (€13), vegetable caponata (€12), or sardines alla beccafico (€15). For your first course we recommend spaghetti with salted tuna and Sicilian lemon peel (€20) or lobster soup with spaghetti (€26).

TESTACCIO – FOR ROMAN CUISINE Flavio al Velavevodetto Great cooking and a very pleasant atmosphere, with both an internal courtyard and a stunning terrace for eating outside. Fish is served on Tuesdays and Fridays, gnocchi on Thursdays, and roast lamb on Saturdays. Try the handmade pasta alla gricia, amatriciana and carbonara (€9) or the meatballs in sauce (€12).

www.puntarellarossa.it

59 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Accommodation vacant in town MANZONI AREA Garden apartment renting, six months minimum at €800 a month. Contact: dellascala4@gmail.com.

VIGNA CLARA - GIOCHI DELFICI 25 sqm studio apartment. Bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, completely furnished. €550 monthly, all included. Please call 346 7882036.

TRASTEVERE Independent on a private courtyard. Living room, kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom with shower, completely furnished and provided with linen. Close to all public transport and shops.

Long and short term rents. Contact marilu_vitali@yahoo.it.

RENT PRESTIGIOUS VILLA CASSIA GROTTAROSSA Grottarossa, in a prestigious compound, near the most important international schools, portion of a single-family villa on three levels, furnished or semi-furnished, entrance, beautiful triple livingroom with fireplace, soppalco-studio, diningroom overlooking the patio equipped with barbecue for outdoor dining, lovely veranda, kitchen, four master bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, large wardrobe room with built-in wardrobes, service apartment, magnificent park of 5,000 sqm With tall trees and olive groves - large heated pool, garage for two cars. €5.500. Fidia real estate, tel. 0639723416 - fidia@ fidiaimmobiliare.it.

TRASTEVERE - ORTI D’ALIBERT Trastevere - Orti d’Alibert (middle of Rome). Very nice, small studio-apartment, fully furnished, free wifi, €900 month. Tel/ Whatsapp. 3334930662. tel. 065803195, millamaria.milli@ gmail.com; anfuso.ale@gmail.com.

TRASTEVERE STATION - MARCONI Fully furnished 70 sqm, hall, 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, kitchen, store room, terrace, concierge. Close to Roma Tre University and Metro B. Wi-Fi. Info pics cuorediroma@ gmail.com, cavallaro_andrea70@hotmail.com, tel. 349 0861468. €1.000.

Accommodation vacant out of town TIVOLI-MANDELA 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

Jobs vacant DIRECTOR OF FINANCE The American University of Rome (AUR) is looking for a Director of Finance to oversee all financial aspects of its activities and drive the university’s financial strategy and planning. This position ensures that there are effective financial and accounting system controls and standards in place, and is responsible for the accounting, financial reporting, budgeting, tax compliance, investments, insurance, and audit functions of the organization. The Director of Finance is a member of the Senior Advisory Council and works closely CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza 19 Sept 17 Oct PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione 1 Oct 1 Nov

60 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

with the President and the Board of Trustees, playing a critical role in strategic decision making and operations as AUR continues to enhance its quality programming and build capacity. Responsibilities. Lead the financial planning of the university by analyzing its data, performance and risks; Prepare, analyze and clearly communicate and review financial, statements and reports for the President, the Board of Trustees and other stakeholders; Support the university’s development strategy and manage relationships with partners and investors; Prepare, communicate and present critical financial matters to the Finance Committee of the Board of Trustees; • Monitor financial progress and changes and keep the President and the Board of Trustees abreast of the organization’s financial status; • Manage organizational cash flow and forecasts; • Oversee students’ billing and collection; • Oversite of all bank accounts and investment vehicles to maintain adequate working capital and return; • Update, document and implement all necessary business policies and accounting practices to improve the finance department’s efficiency and financial controls; • Ensure compliance with Federal, local and any other financial, tax reporting and regulatory requirements; • Provide financial information to meet the needs of managers including producing customized financial reports, costing templates, trend analysis on a regular basis; • Set targets for and supervise accounting and finance personnel; • Oversee all audit and control operations; • Ensure adherence to financial laws and guidelines; • Perform any other duties as assigned Qualifications and Requirements • Advanced degree in Accounting, Finance or Business Administration; • CPA or other relevant qualification a plus; • A minimum of 5-7 years in financial administration with progressive growth in responsibility; • In-depth knowledge of US higher education finance and accounting principles, laws and best practices; • Solid knowledge of financial analysis and forecasting; • Ability to translate financial concepts to and effectively collaborate with programmatic and fundraising colleagues who do not necessarily have finance backgrounds; • Experience working with grants and endowments a plus; • Technology savvy with experience selecting and overseeing software installations and managing relationships with software vendors; • Keen analytic, organization and problem solving skills which support and enable sound decision making; • Able to work extended hours, and travel to the States as needed; • Excellent communication and relationship building skills with an ability to prioritize, negotiate and work with a variety of internal and external stakeholders in a multi- cultural environment; • Personal qualities of integrity, credibility, professionalism, a commitment to lead by example and dedication to the mission of The American University of Rome. ADDITIONAL INFORMATION: • Full time position, with initial 1-year contract • Compensation competitive and based upon experience • Position located in Rome, Italy, with periodical travel to the States • Interviews will start in early September How to Apply: Please email a resume, cover letter (quote re: Director of Finance HR 29/2018) to applications@aur.edu. Please indicate where you learned about the job. AUR is an equal opportunity employer committed to inclusive hiring and dedicated to diversity and inclusion in its work and staff.

TOUR OPERATOR IS LOOKING Tour operator is looking for outgoing English, Spanish, German speaking people to give info and assistance to tourists in the Colosseum area. Working time from 09.0014.00. Contact mackhugs@gmail.com.

ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have

WANTED IN ROME DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENT OF THE ADVERTISEMENTS IT PUBLISHES. Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

valid working documents. Please send your CV to aurelia@ angloamericankids.it.

Lessons FRENCH QUALIFIED TEACHER Need to learn French for fun, business or culture? English, Italian, Spanish speaking. Loves teaching, your house or mine. Please leave telephone number or email. Tel. 3299823826; f.bessoles.rm@gmail.com.

Poetry

LOOK FOR MORE CLASSIFIED ADS ON WWW.WANTEDINROME.COM Free Classified Advertisements. All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted v ia o ur website a t www.wantedinrome.com. Space p ermitting free classified advertisements p laced o n our website w ill be downloaded a nd published i n the magazine, but o nly if t hey include contact d etails. J obs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in o ur office but m ust be p laced d irectly o n our website www.wantedinrome.com.

19 LUGLIO 1992 Need to learn French for fun, business or culture? English, Italian, Spanish speaking. Loves teaching, your house or mine. Please leave telephone number or email. Tel. 3299823826; f.bessoles.rm@gmail.com.

LEGHIAMO CINQUE STELLE Among vexed questions and Mattarella’s rush act is newborn the govern of change. PD as opposition party, Forza Italia standing at the window chissà se va a monte pure er governo Conte. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

CHANGING SONG I don’t want to run after terrorism anymore, I don’t want to run after bad governs anymore. I want just a little stop. Ma guarda un pop. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

POLIZIA LOCALE Once upon a time the eternal city, asphalt, transport, rubbish, public utility, urban decay, unemployment, traffic, cost of living; what to say to Campidoglio? Roma esci dar coma. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

FIRENZE HAS STOPPED Like a gift received from the sky, your aspect, your courtesy, your education, your seriousness and the way you played soccer. We will not forget this. In alto i nostri cuori rivolti a Davide Astori. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

4 MARCH 2018 I should have written more but it doesn’t matter; ladies and gentlemen da Milano a Bari “ oggi so’ cavoli amari.” sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

BALL Like a shoot at goal never done, like a qualification never achieved, like a Sweden never defeated. Italy soccer team won’t take part to the Russia world competition. Coach Ventura che fregatura. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

ELECTORAL REFORM We call it inciucio between Renzi e Berlusconi. No need for a medium to say che nun serve sto Rosatellum. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

Property sale out of town CHARMING AND COSY WOODEN COTTAGE FOR SALE Charming and cosy “baita” wooden cottage + 2 bedroom Cottage annex, at 20 miles driving distance from Rome, in the Parco di Vejo Natural Reserve. The property, located in an elevated position, is set in a unique and dreamy landscape.

It is set on a 2.5 acre area with woodland, a large flat lawn (football field size) located in front of the main house, olive trees, an orchard, and a rich diversity of flowers, plants and trees. It is enriched by an eating area with a brick wood fired pizza oven, and a lit dancing floor to use in the warm summer nights by the moon. €660.000 Mail pierdavid@ tiscali.it.

61 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836924 Anglo America Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S.Lyigi dei Francesi, 23, tel.0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 8.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piaza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish)

62 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Internatuinal Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel, 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel.0642014554. Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18-00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel, 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Chirch Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrwe’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 Patrick's Church Church (Roman (Roman Catholic), StStPatrick’s Catholic), ViaBoncompagni Boncompagni 31, 31, tel. tel. 0688818727, Via 068881827, www.stpatricksamericanrome.org. www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 8.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S.Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel.064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di ROma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victisms of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distredded) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 63 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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Wanted in Rome | December 2017

CONDUCTOR

SPERANZA SCAPPUCCI DIRECTOR

VINCENZO BELLINI

la sonnambula

PëTR IL’Ič čAJkOvSkIJ

GIORGIO BARBERIO CORSETTI ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

TEATRO COSTANZI FIRST PERFORMANCE SAT 15 SEPTEMBER

NEW PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH TEATRO PETRUZZELLI DI BARI

THE REPLICAS

SUN 16 SEPTEMBER

THU 20

8.00 PM F

DIRECTOR

FRI

SUN 23

SOFIA COPPOLA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

FEBRUARY 25 TEATRO NAZIONALE DIRECTOR

FABIO CHERSTICH

figaro!

21

SAT 22

la traviata

4.30 PM E

8.00 PM B 8.00 PM C 8.00 PM

6.00 PM D

CHOREOgRAPHy

NICOLAS BROCHOT JEAN-guILLAuME BART

ORCHESTRA, éTOILE, PRINCIPAL dANCERS, SOLOISTS ANd CORPS dE BALLET OF THE TEATRO dELL’OPERA dI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

4.30 PM

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo and David Downton

CONDUCTOR

PIETRO RIZZO

GIUSEPPE VERDI

CONDUCTOR

TUE 18 WED 19

FEBRUARY 24 - MARCH 4 TEATRO COSTANZI

8.00 PM A

Sleeping Beauty Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

FEBRUARY 18 - MARCH 3 TEATRO COSTANZI

Opera Camion

SET, COSTUME AND VIDEO DESIGN

GIANLUIGI TOCCAFONDO “FABBRICA” YOUNG ARTIST PROGRAM AND YOUTH ORCHESTRA OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA operaroma.it

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