Wanted in Rome - November 2018

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CONT

EDITORIALS

italy in rome ed white

9. italy’s castrati singers

mike dilien

13. palazzo farnese at caprarola philip biss

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WHAT’S ON

cultural academies TO DO CALENDAR MUSEUMS ART GALLERIES CULTURAL VENUES WANTED IN ROMEJUNIOR RECIPE STREET ART guide PUNTARELLA ROSSA CLASSIFIEDs USEFUL NUMBERS

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4. all blacks meet

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MUSEUMS NEWS

Light is Time by Tsuyoshi Tane.

Courtesy of Dorrell. Ghotmeh. Tane / Architects.

Part of the exhibition Dream. L'arte incontra i sogni at Chiostro del Bramante. See review page 36.

ENTS 4

all blacks meet italy in rome

13

18 TO DO CALENDAR

palazzo farnese at caprarola

28 EXHIBITIONS

Rugby

ALL BLACKS MEET ITALY IN ROME THE AZZURRI FACE REIGNING RUGBY WORLD CHAMPIONS NEW ZEALAND IN ROME’S OLYMPIC STADIUM

Ed White The All Blacks performing the Haka in front of the Italian rugby team.

T

he public in Rome is lucky to witness some of the best names in world sport competing in the Eternal City. From Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal at the Italian Open Tennis, to Usain Bolt and Justin Gatlin running at the Diamond League athletics, Chris Froome and Peter Sagan cycling in the Giro D’Italia, not to mention the footballing greats who have taken to the turf at the Stadio Olimpico.

This winter, rugby union supporters will get their chance to see New Zealand All Blacks, the reigning world champions, bring their considerable might to battle against Italy at the Stadio Olimpico on 24 November (with 4 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

kick-off at 15.00) as part of the annual autumn internationals when a string of fixtures bringing the best rugby teams of the southern hemisphere to the north.

The All Blacks, famous for their pre-match Haka, the traditional war dance, as well as their brilliance at mobilising an oval ball, provide the toughest challenge in world rugby. Italy knows that more than most; in 13 official test matches against the All Blacks, and with only one match recognised as a full international, the Azzurri have yet to taste victory. The Italian crowd will be hoping it is a case of 15th time lucky – in a match that will double as a precursor to the two teams’ scheduled meeting in the group stages of the 2019 World Cup in Japan.

Rugby More important than a win, Conor O’Shea, the Irish coach of the Italian team, will want to see a strong performance from his squad following a disappointing Six Nations Championship – where the Italians finished bottom without a win to their name.

The match will be Italy’s fourth and final game of this year’s string of autumn international fixtures. As usual in recent years, the Italian team is using the autumn internationals to showcase rugby across the country and abroad – unlike during the Six Nations where all the matches in Italy are played in Rome.

O’Shea will first take his side to the US to take on Ireland in Chicago on 3 November before returning to Italy seven days later to play upcoming rugby nation Georgia in Florence. Eyes will be locked on the result and performance of the Georgia match, given recent clamour across Europe for the Georgians to replace Italy in the Six Nations Championship – a decision which would devastate the Italians.

Italy will then meet former world champions Australia in Padua on 17 November before returning to the capital for the autumn highlight against the All Blacks. Having finished this year’s Six Nations Championship at the bottom of the table without a win in five matches, Italy will have fingers crossed for a change in fortunes against the elite teams in world rugby, but especially against New Zealand, the 2015 World Cup winners.

In its previous meetings, Italy has failed to score more than 21 points in a single match against the All Blacks – and that was as far back as the 1991 World Cup. In contrast, New Zealand, often regarded as the world’s most exciting team as well as the most efficient, has run up 754 points against the Azzurri at a jaw-dropping average of 58 points per game. In their previous meeting, also staged at the Stadio Olimpico in November 2016, the All Blacks came out winners by a scoreline of 68 points to 10.

The only other time the teams have met at the Olympic venue was in 2012 when the All Blacks completed a 42-10 rout.

Edoardo Padovani on the attack against New Zealand in 2016.

Despite the historical statistics, Italy, which is still considered a relative newcomer on the international stage, can harbour ambitions based on an upturn of form under impressive coach O’Shea.

Even without a victory in the 2018 Six Nations, with imperious captain Sergio Parisse leading the way on the field, the Azzurri produced a number of highly competitive performances and came within two minutes of beating the Scots in their final game of the championships in Rome – eventually losing 29-27 in a heartbreaking defeat.

It was this performance by a young team – including star full-back Matteo Minozzi who was nominated for player of the tournament – that has given O’Shea plenty of encouragement. “We’re coming!” exclaimed the Irishman, who has now been in charge of the Azzurri for two years. “It doesn’t happen overnight, but I think people can now see we’re beginning to galvanise some good young players.”

That positivity was backed up on a June tour of imminent World Cup hosts Japan with two promising performances. O’Shea’s side bounced back from a 34-17 defeat in the opening game to win its first match of 2018 with a final result of 25-22 in Kobe.

And there is further evidence of the Italian team’s progress, despite a record of only four wins from 22 tests. The nation’s under 5 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Rugby 20s side finished among the top eight in the World Cup in 2017, ahead of established big players Argentina and Ireland. And the same side recorded its most successful tournament for more than a decade in this year’s junior Six Nations – ending the tournament with a comprehensive win over Scotland.

Stephen Aboud, Italy’s head of rugby development, has spoken of the bright future. “The results of the under 20s have gone a long way in supporting the mindset of a lot of people in Italian rugby that there is progress,” Aboud said. “In the future the ambition has got to be, in the long term, to win a Six Nations. You have to believe that.”

The autumn internationals have been a source of happy returns in past seasons too. Last year the Azzurri edged out Fiji in Catania, and in 2016 the Italian team produced arguably its finest performance in history to beat South Africa 20-18 in Florence. The New Zealand match will be the first autumn international test match to be played in Rome since 2013, so tickets for the showpiece will be sought keenly.

As usual with the Stadio Olimpico, ticket prices vary depending on the vantage point in the stadium. On the official Italy rugby ticketing website, prices for the All Blacks game range from €30 in the Curva Sud and Curva Nord of the stadium. A top of the range ticket in the Tribuna Monte Mario Top would cost €90. Discounts are offered for under 16s and over 65s with tickets ranging from €24 in the Curva segments, to €72 in the Tribuna Monte Mario Top (see Wanted in Rome’s special ticket offer on page 46).

For those unable to go to watch Italy’s match against the All Blacks, the Azzurri will return to Rome next February for the 2019 Six Nations. Italy will face Wales at Stadio Olimpico on 9 February, one week after starting the tournament against Scotland at Murrayfield in Edinburgh. Ireland, the 2018 champions, will then head to Rome on 24 February and the battle for the Giuseppe Garibaldi Trophy against France will bring the curtain down on the competition on 16 March.

6 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Italy has also recently announced its warmup matches leading up to next year’s World Cup. The Azzurri will play Ireland in Dublin on 10 August before meeting Russia at home on 17 August. Trips to France (30 August) and England (6 September) will finalise the Italians’ preparations before their first Pool C game in Japan against Namibia on 22 September.

Italy is also scheduled to meet a Repechage winner – in which eliminated contestants have another chance to qualify for the next round – on 26 September, before a showdown with South Africa on 4 October and then the clash against New Zealand on 12 October.

Ahead of the trip to Japan next summer, O’Shea said Italy must leave no stone unturned in its preparation over the next 12 months. He said: “We have to be absolutely aware and certain of what awaits us from every point of view because – especially with the first two games in the space of four days – we can’t afford not to be perfectly prepared in every way possible.”

For full information see Italian Federation website, www.federugby.it.

Rugby

Italian captain Sergio Parisse halted by the New Zealand defence in 2016.

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Music

ITALY’S CASTRATI SINGERS “PRIMA LA MUSICA”: WHEN THE HIGHEST NOTES ARISE FROM THE DEEPEST SIGHS

Mike Dilien his predecessor, the castrate singer, Domenico Mustafà, into retirement, so ending a tradition of more than three centuries.

A

lessandro Moreschi, Angelo di Roma, Cantore nella Cappella Sistina 1858-1922 reads a tomb on the upper level of Rome’s Verano cemetery. A black and white photograph shows a man with an impressively large chest and unusually thick hair.

Moreschi was the last of the cantori evirati, Italian castrate singers. He joined the Sistine Chapel choir in 1883. However in 1902 Lorenzo Perosi, appointed to head the choir

by Leo XIII in 1898, convinced the pope not to hire any more castrati. “Those singers who, let us say, are ‘imperfect’ on a physical plane although complete as singers, are totally excluded from the Sistine Chapel,” a local newspaper reported, and concluded: “This is a victory for Maestro Perosi.” At the same time Perosi, who referred to castrate singers as “abnormal men”, finally managed to force

Even after Pope Leo XIII had forbidden the practice, the church kept employing castrate singers. With the operation officially illegal, common excuses for the boy’s unmanned state ranged from his being a natural-born eunuch (or “congenital bilateral anorchia”), to a riding accident, an animal bite or castration for the cure of hernia. When German singing teacher Franz Haböck interviewed the last castrate singers, every single one claimed to have been bitten by an animal at a young age. Both Mustafà and Sebastianelli, for example, were bitten by a pig. Another one claimed to be bitten by a wild swan.

In 1903 the newly-elected pope, Pius X, issued his motu proprio: boys were to replace castrati in church choirs.

Castrate singers evoke both fascination and speculation. But their story is limited to their successes on stage. Little is known about their private lives. And nothing at all about those who failed as singers.

As early as 1550, the Sistine Chapel counted at least one castrate singer, a Spaniard. Since Sixtus V, the Roman Catholic Church followed St Paul, who wrote that women should “remain silent in churches.” At the same time, however, the church needed high voices to sing polyphonic music in its basilicas, cathedrals and churches. The Vatican employed falsetti, male singers who reached high notes using a 9 | Nov • Wanted in Rome

Music voice: castration “to the honour of God”, as Clement VIII proclaimed, in exchange for lodging, food, clothing and an education that would allow them to make a living.

Early in the 17th century, Peri’s Euridice and Monteverdi’s L’Orfeo, the world’s first operas, featured parts for castrati. Soon, the Baroque opera took Europe by storm and new theatres opened all over the continent. When Innocent XI forbade women to perform in the theatre and opera Europe’s stages provided an opportunity for the castrate singers. By 1730 Italy was producing 4,000 castrates per year.

Families offered their sons in the hope of fame and money.

Moreschi was the last of Italy’s castrate singers.

special technique and who were usually from Spain. Because the castrati had a voice that was higher, more voluminous and flexible, they gradually replaced the falsetti. Italy started to produce its own castrate singers.

The surgical operation usually took place when a boy was about eight years old. It was a venture: many boys died, either during the operation, because of too much pressure on their carotid artery or a lethal dose of opium, or afterwards, because of an infection. Despite being a widespread practice, Italians kept a taboo on its who and where. When musicologist Charles Bruney asked for information from the locals, they sent him from pillar to post. All he discovered was that the practitioners were called “norcini”, after Norcia, the Umbrian town famous for its pig slaughterers although there were well-known surgeons in Florence and Bologna as well.

Originally, castrates performed only in churches, singing religious music. The Church offered a package to boys who had a lovely 10 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

However, at the beginning of the 19th century the success of the castrate singers faded.

They had become relics. The Baroque opera and its castrate singers with their wigs and lead powdering symbolised the ancien régime.

Practices like castration were not compatible with the ideas of Enlightenment. And as the musical taste changed, with a preference for male voices, and women reappeared on stage, the theatres no longer offered a role for them.

Composers no longer wrote castrato parts. The castrato singers had to recede to their origins: religious church music. Finally, the Vatican’s Sistine Chapel became their last stronghold, but by 1898 it counted only six castrato singers.

Between 1902 and 1904, Moreschi recorded a series of songs in the Vatican: he is the only Italian castrato singer whose solo voice has been recorded.

Moreschi received his vocal training at Rome’s S. Salvatore at the Lauro. Castrato singers underwent a long and rigid training. Naples’ conservatories – reputedly the world’s best – developed out of orphanages. Almost a fifth of the pupils of the S. Onofrio conservatory were castrates. Yet life inside the institution must have been hard. Despite the conservatory being a boy’s only home and provider of a future, archives reveal that almost every pupil who ran away (“si n’è fuggito”) was a castrate.

As castrato boys grew up, their disrupted hormone levels could turn them into grotesque creatures, freaks even. In his Letters from Italy (1739), historian Charles de Brosses observed: “Most become big and fat like capons, their mouths, their rumps, arms, breasts and neck

Music rounded and chubby like women.” On top of this, they suffered from osteoporosis and cardiovascular problems.

After his retirement, Moreschi, “l’angelo di Roma”, lived anonymously in an apartment near the Vatican. He married a woman, but left her soon after for a man. As admired as the castrates were on stage, they were despised off stage. They received the most vulgar nicknames.

An opera dramaturg investigated the subject for 20 years and came across only 100 singers who had been documented. Remarkably, there are no accounts of castrate singers who failed stardom; it is almost as though they tried to fade into oblivion. Even Farinelli (17051782), the most popular castrato singer ever, refused a biography and described himself as a “despicable creature”. The only castrate who wrote an autobiography was Filippo Balatri, but Balatri was a successful singer as well as something of a cultural ambassador, ending his days as a Cistertian monk.

Moreschi’s family tomb at Campo Verano in Rome.

The surgical intervention changed a boy’s life irrevocably. It condemned him to one single occupation: singing. Yet many boys failed.

And those who failed still had to make a living: boys who were not particularly gifted could join the choir of a small church while those who were apt in music could become a teacher. Others became priests. Boys who ran away from the conservatory, however, had no option but to beg or sing on the streets for money. Or worse.

On stage, castrates interpreted both male and female roles, appealing to both sexes. Casanova fancied one. Even Charles De Brosses admitted a castrate boy to be “as pretty as the prettiest girl.” At the same time, he remarked that “fair ladies … demand their talents, which are limitless, because talents they have.” Whereas opera stars scored with the aristocracy and higher clergy, anonymous castrates had to rely on prostitution. At the beginning of the 18th century, Rome counted at least one brothel of only castrates. Travellers reported that in Rome young castrati offered to serve “equally well as a woman or as a man.”

In 1922, less than ten years after Moreschi retired, the Vatican’s official newspaper, L’Osservatore Romano, did not even publish an obituary on its former singer and director of the soloists. Yet Rome had not forgotten its angel: Moreschi’s funeral became a public event. Surprisingly, maestro Perosi, who had banned all castrate singers from the Sistine Chapel, conducted himself the mass for Moreschi’s funeral.

With Moreschi gone, the “Italian singers” were no more. Moreschi, who had a large family, joined the family vault. A couple of years earlier, he had put his colleague and friend, Domenico Salvatori, another of the last castrati singers in the Sistine Chapel, in this vault.

In 2006, scientists studied the remains of Farinelli. A decade later, the remains of another acclaimed opera star, Gaspare Pachierotti (17401821), were studied. For every 4,000 castrates only Farinelli and Pachierotti reached opera fame. Instead most boys’ lives were marked by poverty, scorn and abuse; they lived and died anonymously and were buried in mass graves.

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PALAZZO FARNESE AT CAPRAROLA THE FARNESE PALACE ABOVE LAGO DI VICO IN NORTH LAZIO IS A MONUMENT TO THE FARNESE FAMILY AND TO THE MANNERIST STYLE

Philip Biss Palazzo Farnese, also known as Villa Farnese, dominates the landscape of Caprarola.

T

he Monti Cimini with their volcanic lakes of Lago di Vico and Lago di Bolsena lie about 50km along the ancient Roman consular road, the Via Cassia, which runs north from Rome towards Florence.

Above Lago di Vico perches Caprarola, on land once occupied by goats, hence its name. Today the goats have vanished, to

be replaced by a stupendous palace, Villa Farnese, on five floors, an outstanding example of Mannerist architecture and decoration, elongating its vertical lines for greater effect and dominating the small town of Caprarola. Cardinal Alessandro Farnese started building Villa Farnese in 1556 on the foundations of an earlier pentagonal fortress planned by his grandfather, an earlier Cardinal Alessandro Farnese, who then became Pope Paul III. 13 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Trips out of town wave of projects saw this new Mannerist style emerge. It was a departure from the classical architectural orders and saw unconventional aspects emerge in artwork such as the posture, positioning, features and facial expression and proportion of those depicted, as well as unusual colour combinations. Palazzo Farnese is a prime example of this style.

The magnificent circular staircase at Palazzo Farnese.

The Farnese family originated in Tuscany, claiming family connections with the Hapsburgs and the Portuguese royal family.

In gratitude for their military intervention in restoring papal property by Pope Urban V in 1368 at Viterbo and Montefiascone, they were granted confirmation of their possessions in northern Lazio and raised to the social status of such famous Roman families as the Orsini, Savelli and Sforza.

Future generations expanded their land in the 1400s, slowly moving closer to Rome, the seat of power and wealth in the Middle Ages, establishing themselves on the shores of Lake Bolsena and increasing their influence by marrying into the baronial Caetani family of Pope Boniface VIII. It was in Bolsena that Alessandro the Younger, also known as Alessandro Farnese, was born in 1520, his grandfather having bought the Caprarola property in 1504, where he started to build a pentagonal fortress about 1528 before abandoning it when he was elected Paul III in 1534, only a few years after the sack of Rome and at the height of the Protestant Reformation.

The sack of Rome in 1527 had seen artists leave the city, and it lost its position as a cultural centre, but under Paul III a new 14 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

It was on the foundations of this unfinished fortress at Caprarola that Alessandro constructed the splendid palace, some seven years after his grandfather’s death in 1549.

He had already risen to power and wealth, helped initially by his grandfather Paul III who made him a cardinal at the age of 14.

Paul III had also been helped to become a cardinal by his sister, the beautiful Giulia Farnese. She married Orsino Orsini in Rome in 1489, but within four years she was living near the Vatican as the mistress of Rodrigo Borgia, by then Pope Alessandro VI. Giulia used her influence to get her elder brother Alessandro Farnese made a cardinal in 1493.

Villa Farnese stands today as a reminder of Paul III’s unprecedented nepotism, of Alessandro Farnese’s patronage of the arts and also as a tribute to the architectural and artistic influences of Mannerism, the style that dominated for some 60 years (1520-80), examples of which can also be seen in the castle at Rocca Sinibalda and in palaces in Mantova and at Palazzo Massimo in Rome. The palace itself is considered an outstanding example of the work of Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola, the leading Mannerist architect who created an innovative circular courtyard within the pentagonal base.

From within the basement a grand circular staircase with frescoed walls and ceiling ascends to the floors above, and it is said that the cardinal rode his horse from here up to his apartments. There are over 14 main rooms with walls and ceilings decorated with frescoes reflecting different themes. The rooms reveal an extraordinary cycle of wall paintings of the period 1560-83 celebrating themes from history, mythology, the seasons and the Bible in celebration of the Farnese family. Vignola painted architectural designs in many rooms to

Trips out of town create the illusion of larger spaces.

The first floor is called the prelates’ floor, which those arriving on foot could also access from an external staircase. It contains the guardroom and a room celebrating the liberation of Malta and the Christian fleet leaving Messina, plus a set of rooms dedicated to each of the four seasons. The royal staircase, with its wide handrail on which weighted bags could be slid, continues upwards to the rooms of the piano nobile, to the summer apartments which are entered through a loggia dedicated to Hercules, who according to mythology formed Lago di Vico in a trial of strength, a theme dear to Cardinal Farnese’s heart.

Originally an unglazed open portico opposite contained a statue of the Greek hero as part of a stucco and mosaic feature with a fountain arrangement to cool the dry summer air. The portico leads to the chapel with its frescoes of Old Testament themes and then to a room dedicated to the Farnese family’s heroic past. The council anteroom is decorated with frescoes exalting Paul III’s achievements in setting up the Council of Trent, his fight against Turkish expansion and his excommunication of Henry VIII in 1538.

The public audience rooms lead to Cardinal Farnese’s private quarters – his bed chamber, his dressing room and his study – all with appropriate frescoed themes such as Minerva introducing early man to the idea of wearing clothes and the making of woollen garments which feature in the The Sala dei fasti Farnesiani is among the palace’s most important rooms.

cardinal’s dressing room. The frescoes in his bedroom show the moon and Mercury bringing in night, while Aurora brings in dawn from the window to chase night away.

The tower room with its stupendous wooden coffered ceiling displays the Farnese coat of arms, while the winter apartments contain frescoes with Biblical scenes such as the Judgement of Solomon, the praise of monasticism and themes of the Counter Reformation.On the floor above, a large airy room contains frescoes of maps of the world as it was known in 1573, and of Italy and the Holy Land. Other rooms such as the cardinal’s winter bedroom feature Biblical dreams and angels delivering messages from God. From this floor it is possible to cross the deep moat and enter the lower gardens, now formal parterres but full of colourful plants in the past. A beautiful grotto with a pond is carved out of the rocks at one end of the garden, while low steps lead into the chestnut wood above and on up to the Pleasure Casino built dominating a water cascade overlooked by reclining stone gods and guarded by large statues of myths.

Since 2015 Palazzo Farnese has been part of the Lazio region’s museum department in the ministry of culture, which has invested some €6 million in maintenance and restoration. The cultural festival ArtCity 2018, organised by the ministry of culture, opened the castle to musical and theatrical events during the summer. In 2017 visitor numbers increased to 71,000 from 57,000 the previous year, with further gains expected this year.

Palazzo Farnese is open Tues-Sun 08.3019.30. The gardens are open Tues-Sat 08.30 to an hour before sunset in good weather. The villa and the gardens are closed Christmas Day, 1 Jan and 1 May. Opening times may vary, so check the culture ministry website www.beniculturali. it. For more information on admission charges, opening times and directions visit the Palazzo Farnese website, www.caprarola.com.

15 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

shortguide guideto tosome some of the A Ashort the most most importantinternational international cultural important Cultural academiesin in Rome Rome representing Academies representing countriesfrom fromaround around the the world countries world in the Eternal City. in the Eternal city.

Cultural Cultural Academies Academies

AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo AMERICAN IN ROME Masina 5,ACADEMY tel. 065810788, www.aarome.org.

The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and AUSTRIANstudy CULTURAL independent in theFORUM arts and humanities. Via Angelo The5,Austrian Cultural www.aarome.org.

Forum hosts events dedicated to the Masina tel. 065810788,

history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel.

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it.

The BELGIAN Austrian ACADEMY Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history culture of Austria.

Bruno Buozzi relations 113, tel.

The and Belgian Academy facilitatesViale scientific and cultural 063608371, betweenwww.austriacult.roma.it.

Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy.ACADEMY Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it.

BELGIAN The BRITISH Belgian Academy COUNCILfacilitates scientific and cultural relations between and Council Belgium by sponsoring and artists The Italy British promotes the researchers English language and appreciation in Italy the UK’s creative ideas and achievemenin Italy.

Via Omero 8, tel.of063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. ts. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it.

BRITISH COUNCIL ROME the English language and The BRITISH British SCHOOL Council AT promotes The British Rome brings scholars, researchers appreciation in School Italy ofatthe UK’s creative ideasartists, and achievemenanddi S. architects from 16, Britain to createwww.britishcouncil.it. a cultural exchange ts. Via Sebastianello tel. 06478141, between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939,

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME www.bsr.ac.uk.

The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects 16 | Novfrom 2018 •Britain Wantedtoincreate Rome a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939,

CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via CASA DI 18, GOETHE del Corso tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

CENTRE CULTURELand SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE offers exhibitions cultural events throughout the year. Via The centre18,offers cultural events such as film screenings, del Corso tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE www.ifcsl.com.

The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings,

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA lectures, theatre.

Largo Toniolo 20, tel.

The centredebates offers and courses of Brazilian Portuguese and066802629, samba www.ifcsl.com. and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian and BRASIL-ITALIA screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza CENTROliterature CULTURAL Navona 18, offers tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/iThe centre courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on DANISH BrazilianACADEMY literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza The Danish18, Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish Navona tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/iartists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

DUTCH DANISHINSTITUTE ACADEMY The offers for students and researchers The Dutch DanishInstitute Academy is ancourses institution that offers support to Danish and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via artists in Rome.

Via Omero 18, tel.

063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk.

Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it.

DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via

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EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org.

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY EGYPTIAN ACADEMY FRENCH ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African TheFrench Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African The Academy at Villa Medici artists from France culture and art to Italy.

Via Omero 4,hosts tel. 063201896, www.accaculture and art to Italy. Via 4, tel.

063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. and provides exhibitions andOmero festivals throughout the year.

Viale demiaegitto.org.

Trinità dei Monti 1, tel.

066761305, www.villamedici.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy at Villa Medici hosts artists from France GERMAN ACADEMY and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout thefrom year.

Viale TheGerman French Academy at Villa Mediciartists, hosts artists France The Academy offers German writers, musicians Trinità dei exhibitions Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. and provides and festivals throughout the year.

Viale and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

GERMAN ACADEMY Massimo 1, tel.

064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de.

The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians GERMAN ACADEMY GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa The institute German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians This research into the history of Germany Massimo 1,conducts tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. and architects the opportunity to in Rome.

Largo di Via Villa and Italy, in particular the relations study between both countries.

GERMAN INSTITUTE Massimo 1, tel.HISTORICAL 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de.

Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it.

This institute conducts research into the history of Germany GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via GOETHE INSTITUT This institute conducts research into the history of Germany Aurelia Antica 391, tel.

066604921, www.dhi-roma.it.

The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries.

Via culture, language and history.

Via Savoia 15, tel.

068440051, GOETHE INSTITUT Aurelia Antica 391, tel.

066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. www.goethe.de.

The Goethe Institut promotes education in Italy about German culture,INSTITUT language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, GOETHE HUNGARIAN ACADEMY www.goethe.de.

The Goethe promotes education in Italy about literary German The AcademyInstitut of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, culture, language and by history.

Via Savoia 068440051, HUNGARIAN ACADEMY events and exhibitions Hungarian artists 15, andtel. scholars.

Via The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary www.goethe.de.

Giulia 1, tel.

066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via HUNGARIAN NSTITUTO Giulia 1, CERVANTES tel. ACADEMY 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

The Academy of Hungary in institution Rome hosts concerts, literary nstituto Cervantes is a cultural created to promote INSTITUTO CERVANTES events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars.

Via he teaching Spanishislanguage culture.created Via di Villa Albani Instituto of Cervantes a culturaland institution to promote Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

6, tel.

068551949, www.cervantes.es. the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani INSTITUTO CERVANTES 16, tel.

068551949, www.cervantes.es.

TALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA Instituto Cervantes is aFOR cultural to into promote The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research the ITALIAN INSTITUTE LATINinstitution AMERICAcreated the The teaching of Spanish language culture.

Via di Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research intoAlbani the cultural, scientific, economic andand social aspects of Villa Italy and 16, tel.

068551949, www.cervantes.es. cultural, scientific, economic social aspects of Italy Latin American countries.

Viaand Giovanni Paisiello 24, and tel.

Latin INSTITUTE American countries.

ViaAMERICA Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel.

06684921, www.iila.org.

ITALIAN FOR LATIN 06684921, www.iila.org.

The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the APANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE CULTURAL INSTITUTE cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and The JAPANESE Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural TheAmerican Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hostsPaisiello regular cultural Latin countries.

Via Giovanni 24, tel. events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel. events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel.

06684921, www.iila.org.

063224754, www.jfroma.it.

063224754, www.jfroma.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel.

063224754, www.jfroma.it.

KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poe – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets Museum to theShelley lives of three Romantic Norwegian in Rome offers undergraduate an –The John Keats,dedicated PercyInstitute Bysshe and LordEnglish Byron.

Piazza di po – John Percy Lordand Byron.

Piazza Spagna 26,Keats, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. graduate courses in artBysshe history,Shelley ancientand studies Italian.

Via Spagna tel.

30 Aprile26, 33,INSTITUTE tel.066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

0658391007, www.hf.uio.no.

NORWEGIAN NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE graduate courses in art history, ancient studies Italian.

The Norwegian Institute in history Rome offers undergraduate a Institution dedicated to Polish and and culture as Viale well as th 30graduate Aprile 33,courses tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. in art history, ancient studies and Italian.

Vi promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittor 30 Aprile 33, 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. tel. INSTITUTE 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no.

POLISH CULTURAL Colonna 1, tel.

Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the POLISHACADEMY CULTURAL INSTITUTE POLISH SCIENCE promotion of dialogue OF between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Institution dedicatedisto Polish history as well asant The Polish a research centreand forculture the humanities Colonna 1, tel.Academy 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. promotion of dialogue between Poland ViaDoria Vitto a scientific exchange between Poland and and Italy.Italy.

Vicolo POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE Colonna 1, tel. www.accademiapolacca.it.

0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. tel.

066792170,

The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and POLISH exchange ACADEMY OF SCIENCE aROMANIAN scientific between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, ACADEMY The Polish Academy is a research centre forpromotes the humanities tel.

066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it.

The Romanian Academy hosts events and cultura

a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria

relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel.Romanian 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. tel.

063201594, www.accadromania.it.

The Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, ROMANIAN ACADEMY RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE tel.The 063201594, www.accadromania.it.

Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultu

The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language an

relations between Romania andAND Italy.LANGUAGE Piazza Josè di S. Martin RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE culture.

Via Farini 62, tel.

064870137.

The Institute provides classes in Russian language and tel.Russian 063201594, www.accadromania.it.

SPANISH ACADEMY culture.

Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

RUSSIAN OF CULTURE The SpanishINSTITUTE Academy hosts artists in AND manyLANGUAGE fields of study an

SPANISH ACADEMY The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language a holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain an The SpanishVia Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and culture.

Farini 62, tel.

064870137.

Italy.events Piazzathat S. Pietro inaMontorio 3, tel.between 065818607, holds provide cultural bridge Spainwww.raer and SPANISH ACADEMY Italy.

Piazza S.INSTITUTE Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it.

SWEDISH OF CLASSICAL STUDIES

The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study a

The Swedish Institute a research STUDIES centre dedicated to scient SWEDISH INSTITUTE OFisCLASSICAL holds events thatart provide aarchaeology. cultural Spain a fic research in Viabetween Omero 14, te The Swedish Institute is a and research centre bridge dedicated to scientiItaly.

Piazzawww.isvroma.it.

Pietro Montorio 3, tel. fic research inS. art andin archaeology.

Via 065818607, Omero 14, www.rae tel.

063201596, 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES SWISS INSTITUTE

The Swiss Swedish Instituteoffers is a research centreevents dedicated scien SWISS INSTITUTE The Institute exhibitions, andtoclasse The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes fic research in art and archaeology.

Via Omero 14, tet dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel.

063201596, www.isvroma.it.

064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and class dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, 064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

19 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

19 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

to do

Sun Mon Thu Wed 4

5

6

7

Visit one of the finest art galleries for free, the Galleria Borghese, thanks to Domenica al Museo.

Book in advance!

Experience Giudizio Universale: Michelangelo and the Secrets of the Sistine Chapel. 10 per cent discount for WiR cardholders.

Bundle up for a nighttime Viaggio nei Fori where you can experience a guided show through the Forum of Julius Caesar.

Get cosy at the book-lined Keats-Shelley House with a fantastic view over Piazza di Spagna.

11

12

13

14

Discover the art of Gather together a team of hand-crafted Venetian friends for a pub quiz in mirrors at Terme di English at Scholars Lounge.

Diocleziano by design firm Zanellato Bortotto. Free entry.

Popular English-language cinema Nuovo Olimpia offers a €2 discount on showings when you present your WiR card.

Spend the afternoon at the Dream art exhibit at Chiostro del Bramante.

Use your WiR card for €2 ticket discount.

19

20

21

Witness the genius of Castroni stocks some 15th-century Renaissance Thanksgiving essentials for master Mantegna with an last-minute recipes. exhibition at the Palazzo Barberini.

Meet some friends at the Drunken Ship pub in Campo de' Fiori. Receive a 20 per cent discount on the final bill with your WiR card.

18 ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Teatro Vascello presents Lola Aria's acclaimed show Minefield for Romaeuropa Festival.

25 Romaeuropa closes with a series of concerts at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. WiR cardholders get 15 per cent off at ticket offices.

26

Visit the Tor Marancia suburb to see Big City Life, Rome's open-air street art museum.

27

28

MACRO Asilo is open to the public for free, so go and explore the “living museum” on Via Nizza.

Take a free guided tour of the gardens at Rome's Japanese Cultural Institute by booking in advance.

Tue

1

Fri 2

Nov Sat 2018 3

In honour of All Saint’s Day The Gospel According to visit the Non-Catholic the Other Mary by John Cemetery in Testaccio.

Adams makes its Italian debut at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

The Rome Savoyards present Major Barbara by George Bernard Shaw, in English, at Teatro di S. Genesio.

9

10

Catch hypnotising LGBT activists and performance artists FAKA for a night of house music at Spin Time Labs.

Head to Mercato Testaccio this morning with your kids to enjoy La parade moderne presented by Romaeuropa Festival.

15

16

17

See the work of “Jack the Dripper” with an exhibition at the Vittoriano dedicated to Jackson Pollock and the New York School.

Kick off the weekend with a free half-pint at Bukowski’s Bar in Borgo Pio. Bring your WiR card!

Spend an hour browsing through the second-hand books at the Open Door Bookshop in Trastevere.

23

24

Celebrate Thanksgiving by British singer Anna Calvi indulging in the buffet performs her new album lunch at the hotel Rome Hunter at Largo Venue.

Cavalieri Waldorf Astoria restaurant.

The journey through Italian modern art continues with a new exhibition at Musia on Via dei Chiavari.

8

Rent a Cooltra scooter and see some sights off the beaten track. Receive a 30 per cent discount with your WiR card.

22 29

30

Immerse yourself in the Take a trip out to Tivoli to ancient Etruscan world at visit the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Villa the Villa Giulia museum.

Adriana or Villa d’Este.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry.

For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel.

0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

STATE MUSEUMS

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Baths of Diocletian

Palazzo Corsini

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome 22 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

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Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Casa di Goethe

Capitoline Museums

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-21.00.

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro del Bramante

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO Asilo

Galleria Colonna

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.

Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org.

Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours available on advance booking.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Museo storico della Liberazione

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.

Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

25 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES 1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www. unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.

Fondazione Memmo

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. com.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, www. contemporarycluster.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www. exelettrofonica.com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists.

Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel.

0645432028, www.federicaschiavo. com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www. fondazionegiuliani.org.

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26 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www. fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto. com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.

0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject. com.

This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel.

0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria PIOMONTI

Founded by gallerist Pio Monti, this gallery has promoted the work of major contemporary Italian artists since 1969. Piazza Mattei 18, tel.

0668210744, www.piomonti.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www. galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel.

066791387, www.galleriailsegno. com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel.

0669923801, www. galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Valentina Moncada This gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www. valentinamoncada.com.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

generations.

Via di Panico 55- 59, tel. 0668801351, www. ilpontecontemporanea.com.

Philobiblon Gallery

Hosts exhibitions the international

representing scene and

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www. nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www. magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel.

0639378024, www.monitoronline. org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900

This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 3482833034.

Montoro 12

Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel.

0668308500, www. m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www. nomasfoundation.com.

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

The Rome branch of this international franchise hosts exhibitions in addition to dealing in antique books. Via Antonio Bertoloni 45, tel.

0645555970, www.philobiblon.org.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www. piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls. com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based

gallery

specialising

young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1 contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography.

Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel.

0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Tralevolte

This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www. tralevolte.org.

Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www. galleriabonomo.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art.

Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, innovative national and international contem-porary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www. z2ogalleria.it.

23 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome

27 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

28 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON Sharon by Bill Viola at Dream: L’arte incontra i sogni at Chiostro del Bramante. See review page 36.

ACADEMIES

30 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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EXHIBITIONS

EXHIBITIONS BALLA A VILLA BORGHESE 29 nov-17 feb

The Carlo Bilotti Museum shows more than 30 works painted in Villa Borghese by Italian artist Giacomo Balla (1871-1958). The paintings, which have never been shown together before, were created before the artist embraced the futurist style for which he became known internationally.

Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 6, tel. 060608, www. museocarlobilotti.it.

ANTONIO FRADDOSIO: LE TUTE E L’ACCIAIO 1 nov-3 feb

Sculptor Antonio Fraddosio presents a site-specific installation described as an “anti-rhetorical monument” to the employees at the controversial ILVA steel plant in Taranto. The ten large works, comprising twisted steel plates, recalling the protective suits worn

by ILVA workers, are on display in the cloister-garden of Rome’s municipal modern art gallery.

Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Via

Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

marcello mastroianni 26 oct-6 jan

The Ara Pacis Museum dedicates an exhibition to one of the greatest stars of Italian cinema: Marcello Mastroianni (19241996). The show traces the actor’s career through photographs, memorabilia, reviews and film footage as well as highlighting his less-well known roles on the stage. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel.

060608, www.arapacis.it.

PICASSO 24 oct-3 feb

The Borghese Gallery presents Italy’s first exhibition dedicated exclusively to the sculpture of Picasso, showing 56 works dating from 1905 to 1964, alongside photographs and videos providing the context in which the sculptures were created. The exhibition also outlines the impact of Picasso’s visit to Rome in 1917

Marcello Mastroianni at Ara Pacis. ©Cineteca di Bologna / Reporters Associati.

when he first viewed ancient Roman and Renaissance sculpture as well as works by Baroque master Bernini at the Borghese Gallery.

Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel. 068413979, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

lisetta carmi: la bellezza della verità 20 oct-3 march

The Museo di Roma in Trastevere hosts the capital’s first public exhibit dedicated to the Genoese photographer Lisetta Carmi. In addition to her best known works, the 150 images on display include three very different themes: the Parisian subway, transvestites, and Sicilian landscapes. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza di S. Egidio 1b, tel. 060608, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.

colore non colore 19 oct-19 nov

The Valentina Bonomo Gallery inaugurates the new season with a group exhibition showcasing the works of 18 artists from different generations and backgrounds.

The exhibited sculptures, paintings, drawings and embroidered canvases, of varying styles and techniques, are united by a black and white theme. The artists whose works are on display include Carla Accardi, Janis Kounellis, Sol LeWitt and Cy Twombly. Galleria Valentina Bonomo, Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

metamorfosi del quotidiano 13 oct-9 dec

The Casina delle Civette at Villa Torlonia displays the Art Deco collection of Roman antique dealer and collector Francesco Principali (1947-1999), an expert in 20th-century decorative arts.

31 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Andreco exhibition at Galleria Varsi.

d’Arte Contemporanea, Piazza di S. Giovanni in Laterano 10, tel.

067008691, www.salauno.com.

JE SUIS L’AUTRE 28 Sept-20 Jan

Part of the Ō Festival (see Festivals page 42) this exhibition is dedicated to Primitivism, a naïve style art movement that originated in the late 19th century.

There are 80 works on display at the Baths of Diocletian by artists including Giacometti and Picasso, as well as masterpieces of ethnic art. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico de Nicola 79.

Among the works on display are important sculptures by Duilio Cambellotti, ceramics by artists such as Giò Ponti, and a collection of Venetian glass from the early 20th-century. Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www. museivillatorlonia.it.

ANDRECO: ADAPTATION 13 Oct-11 Nov

Galleria Varsi presents an exhibition by Andreco, an Italian visual artist with a background in environmental engineering, specialising in sustainable projects in various climatic conditions.

The artist draws on his scientific experience to create graphic art that reflects on the relationships between human beings and nature, and between natural and urban spaces. Galleria Varsi, Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 066865415, www.galleriavarsi.it.

DEADLINE 13 Oct-10 Nov

The Rossoventisette gallery presents an exhibition by wellknown Rome street artists Solo and Diamond, with accompanying catalogue text by Giorgio de Finis, the curator of MACRO Asilo.

There are 28 works on display – 14 by each artist – including

original sketches and canvases relating to their most important murals. Solo was born in 1982 and his artwork is rooted in comics and pop icons, while Diamond was born in 1977 and is known for his Art Nouveaustyle murals.

Rosso20sette ArteContemporarea, Via del Sudario 39, tel. 0664761113, www.rosso27.com.

IL SORPASSO: QUANDO L’ITALIA SI MISE A CORRERE 12 oct-3 feb

Photographic exhibition following Italy’s post-war reconstruction and subsequent economic boom, from 1946 to 1961. Organisers say the 160 photographs and archive footage on display offer a portrait of the collective rebirth of Italy and the Italians in the decades after world war two. Museo di Roma, Piazza S. Pantaleo 10, tel.

060608, www.museodiroma.it.

COLORE, IMMAGINE, SEGNO, OGGETTO, COMPORTAMeNTO 4 Oct-12 Jan

The second in a trilogy of exhibitions exploring the journey of modern Italian art takes place at Musia Living (&) Arts, a multifunctional space opened a year ago by Roman entrepreneur and collector Ovidio Jacorossi. The exhibition comprises around 30 works by artists active in Rome and across Italy during the second half of the 20th century, including Afro, Capogrossi, Fioroni, Fontana, Guttuso, Schifano and Twombly. Via dei Chiavari 7/9, tel.

0668210213, www.musia.it.

Solo exhibits in Deadline with fellow Roman street artist Diamond at Rossoventisette.

LEONARDI CRUDI: BANDIERE 12 Oct-16 Nov

Sala 1 hosts Bandiere, an exhibition by the young Roman artist Leonardo Crudi whose work features key figures from the Bauhaus movement, portrayed in new graphic ways.

SALA 1, Centro Internazionale 33 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

macro asilo 1 Oct-31 dec 2019

MACRO on Via Nizza is free to visitors until the end of 2019 as part of an experimental art project, known as Asilo (meaning refuge), which now enters its second month. Under the direction of curator Giorgio de Finis, the project’s opening month included important names such as Michelangelo Pistoletto, Pablo Il Sorpasso, at Palazzo Braschi. Sophia Echaurren, Fausto delle Chiaie Loren reading about Gagarin, 1961. and Pietro Ruffo. The November Foto Archivio storico Luce. programme was not published at the time of going to press. MACRO Asilo will see the participation of 250 contemporary artists who will be given space to work, perform and interact with the public.

The programme envisages the creation of 400 videoart works, 17 oct – 20 jan 1,000 lessons, 60 Saturday night Under the title Love, myths and concerts and 900 self-portraits. other stories, this exhibition is dedicated to the life, work and The series of 180 lectures will legacy of Ovid. The show explores feature international artists such the central themes of Ovid’s as Claire Bishop, Mary Ann Caws, writings: love, seduction and Don Thompson, Calum Storrie, the relationship between power Sally Price and Paul Werner. De and myth. The display includes Finis, known to many as the more than 200 works including founder of Rome’s MAAM street frescoes and ancient sculptures, art museum, says he is abandoning precious mediaeval manuscripts the traditional exhibition format and paintings of the modern age.

Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV in favour of transforming MACRO Maggio 6, tel. 0681100256, www. into a “living museum” open scuderiequirinale.it. under the tag “il museo di tutti.”

MACRO Asilo, Via Nizza 138, tel.

06696271, www.museomacro.it.

STILL SHOWING ovidio: amori, miti e altre storie

sarah sze

la stanza di mantegna 27 Sept-27 Jan

Palazzo Barberini presents La stanza di Mantegna, six works from the Musée JacquemartAndré, a private museum in Paris. The exhibition includes two masterpieces by the 15th-century Italian Renaissance master Andrea Mantegna as well as four paintings by his contemporaries.

Palazzo Barberini, Via Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www. barberinicorsini.org.

34 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

17 oct – 20 jan

The Gagosian presents an exhibition of new works by the American multimedia artist Sarah Sze who represented the US at the Venice Biennale in 2013 and 2015. Sze’s video installation Half Moon (2018) transforms the gallery space into a monumental magic lantern suspended between the worlds of sculpture and film, while her new series of paintings sees sculptural elements translated into two-dimensional imagery.

Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www. gagosian.com.

POLLOCK AND THE NEW YORK SCHOOL 10 oct – 24 feb

The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition dedicated to American Abstract Expressionist painter Jackson Pollock along with his artist peers such as Willem de Kooning and Franz Kline. The artists belonged to the New York School, an informal movement of avantgarde painters, poets, dancers and musicians active in New York in the 1950s and 1960s. The painters were driven by experimentation and anti-conformism, particularly evident in the action painting of Pollock - known as “Jack the Dripper” - because of his revolutionary way of applying paint to canvas. The Rome exhibition comprises around 50 works including Pollock’s 3-m long Number 27. Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, www. ilvittoriano.com.

PIXAR: 30 YEARS OF ANIMATION 9 Oct-20 Jan

Palazzo delle Esposizioni celebrates three decades of Pixar, the California-based animation company which has combined art and cutting-edge technology to create movies enjoyed by children and adults alike. Described as a “plunge into the creative universe of Pixar”, the exhibition comprises more than 400 drawings, sculptures, sketches, collages, storyboards and video material from the celebrated Pixar studios. The show features muchloved characters from movies such as the ground-breaking Toy Story as well as Cars, Monsters, Inc and Finding Nemo. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www. palazzoesposizioni.it.

FRENCH IMPRESSIONISTS: MONET TO CÉZANNE 5 Oct-9 Jan

Grande Exhibitions present an

immersive exhibition experience inspired by the lives and works of the French Impressionists, at Palazzo degli Esami in Trastevere.

The exhibition uses interactive audiovisual technology to bring the Impressionists’ work to life, and is brought to Rome by the same virtual reality experts behind the recent Van Gogh Alive experience. For tickets see Ticketone website, www. ticketone.it. Palazzo degli Esami, Via Girolamo Induno 4.

ANGELA MARIA PIGA: APPRODO 4 Oct-17 Nov

Under the title Approdo (meaning Haven), the first solo exhibition of Roman sculptor Angela Maria Piga features a series of recently-created ceramics. With a background as an art journalist, Piga observes: “If in the writing the narration creates imaginary forms, in sculpture the form creates its own stories.” The works, glazed and colourful, are inspired mainly from mythology and fairytales.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

andy warhol 3 Oct-3 feb

The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition of more than 170 works by the late Bandiere exhibition by Leonardo Crudi at Sala 1. Kandinskij.

Palazzo Barberini displays works by Mantegna. Ecce Homo, detail.

Pop art supremo Andy Warhol on the 90th anniversary of his birth. The show comes ahead of an unprecedented exhibition dedicated to Warhol’s religiousthemed works scheduled to take place in the Vatican during 2019.

Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, www.ilvittoriano.com.

DREAM: L’ARTE INCONTRA I SOGNI 3 Oct-3 feb

The Chiostro del Bramante hosts a site-specific exhibition of dreamthemed art works. See review page 36. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it

EDDIE PEAKE 22 sept-17 nov

Eddie Peake is a young British painter, sculptor and performance artist whose work is concerned with personal identity, interpersonal communication, sexuality, and the complex levels of relationship in modern urban life. His exhibition at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill focuses exclusively on the medium of painting, referencing classic themes such as portraiture and art history.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.

LA ROMA DEI RE: IL RACCONTO DELL’ARCHEOLOGIA 27 july-27 jan

The Capitoline Museums examine the most ancient stage in Rome’s history: the Roman Kingdom which is traditionally dated from 753 BC with the city’s founding to the overthrow of the monarchy around 509 BC. The exhibition contains over 800 artefacts, dating from the sixth to the tenth centuries BC, including urns, amphorae, sculptures, skeletal remains and necklaces, as well as decorated fragments from tombs and temples. Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, tel.

060608, www.museicapitolini. org.

donatello at palazzo venezia 27 july-27 jan

Palazzo Venezia displays the precious terracotta bust depicting S. Lorenzo by the early Italian Renaissance sculptor Donatello (c.1386-1466). It is thought that Donatello made the bust for a church in the Tuscan town of Borgo S. Lorenzo in Mugello around 1440, the same period as he created his bronze David.

Lost for centuries, the bust was only rediscovered in 2003. Piazza Venezia 3, tel. 0669994284, w w w. m u s e o p a l a z z o v e n e z i a .

35 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Sharon by Bill Viola

EXHIBITION REVIEW Dream-themed exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante The Chiostro del Bramante in Rome presents Dream: L’arte incontra i sogni, an enchanting exhibition of dream-themed art works, guiding viewers on a “physical, surreal, mental and dreamlike journey” through site-specific installations by major international artists. The exhibition completes the trilogy of shows curated by Danilo Eccher, which began with Love in 2016 and Enjoy last year, providing a glimpse into the world of dreams, which Eccher describes as the key to understanding the “vast and profound territories of the soul.”

Dream’s contemporary artists include world heavyweights such as Anselm Kiefer, Mario Merz, Christian Boltanski, Kate MccGwire, Anish Kapoor, Bill Viola, Luigi Ontani and James Turrell. The show’s dreaminess factor is enriched further by an audioguide with mellifluous reflections on the exhibited works.

Entering the museum’s cloister, visitors are confronted with the contemplative Chloe’s World, a monumental work by Spanish artist Jaume Plensa, celebrated for her slender heads of young girls, peaceful in their 36 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

dreams, created from polyester resin and marble dust.

Ducking inside under a black felt curtain, and then another, viewers face Sharon by Bill Viola, widely regarded as a pioneer of new media art. Viola’s “moving portrait” depicts Sharon, eyes closed and fully dressed, while moving slowly under water, as if in a trance. In the same way that even the strangest dreams often make sense at the time, it is clear that Sharon is not in danger of drowning, rather she is at home in this amphibious environment, and the effect is captivating.

Further on, the show delves into the darker side of dreamland with Le Théâtre d’Ombres by French conceptual artist Christian Boltanksi. Two peep holes provide a peek into a tiny room whose back wall is enlivened by the macabre silhouettes of dancing skulls and devilish skeleton-characters. A raised walkway meanders past a tree, suspended eerily in thin air, roots and all, by Swedish artist Henrik Håkansson, while underneath are miniature mounds of rice by Germany’s Wolfgang Laib, like a babbling brook frozen in time.

The adjoining high corridor houses a highlight of the show: Light is Time, the award-winning installation

by Japanese architect Tsuyoshi Tane, featuring thousands of main plates – the basic component of a watch. Visitors walk through countless semi-visible strings of shimmering gold discs, dangling from the ceiling, their sparkling ebb and flow controlled by fluctuating lights.

Another treat awaits in the winding stairwell, now cave-like, its walls padded heavily with soft woven carpets and hand-tufted rugs, brown and green, giving the impression of entering a fairytale forest.

This naturalistic work is What if all is by Argentinian artist Alexandra Kehayoglou, whose rich tapestries recall the grasslands and waterways of Patagonia.

The unexpected nature trail eventually leads into the spirally, doodly universe of Austrian artist Peter Kogler whose mesh of stripes and knotted lines distort space and leave the viewer almost dizzy.

Squeezing through a low door, visitors find themselves in a bedroom by Luigi Ontani; the bed’s headboard contains one glowing eye, the purple walls are dotted with coloured masks. The ceiling in the adjoining room hosts Time Sky, a series of flashing numbers

by Japan’s Tatsuo Miyajima, while the exhibition ends with Sensing Thought, by Californian artist James Turrell, a hypnotic installation which bathes the viewer in deep ultramarine and indigo light. It is a fitting conclusion to this dream-like art experience which visitors will leave as if emerging from a curious and confusing slumber.

Dream: L’arte incontra i sogni until 5 May 2019.

Chiostro del Bramante, Via dell’Arco della Pace 5.

Andy Devane

Daniil Trofonov plays Rachmaninov at Auditorium Parco della Musica and then performs with S. Cecilia in its tournee of South Korea and China.

CLASSICAL ROME ACCADEMIA filarmonica romana don giovanni 9-18 nov

Mozart’s Don Giovanni according to the Orchestra Piazza Vittorio.

The androgynous Don Giovanni leads an orchestra in an imaginary Cotton Club of the 1920s. This is a contemporary rendering of the Mozart classic. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA s. cecilia THE GOSPEL ACCORDING TO THE OTHER MARY

BY JOHN ADAMS 2-4 nov

The Italian premiere of the contemporary oratorio by American composer John Adams is organised in conjunction with Romaeuropa Festival. It takes the theme of the Passion of Christ from the point of view of Mary Magdalene, Martha and Lazarus.

Some of the libretto, in Italian, Spanish and English, is based on texts by the radical Catholic lay woman Dorothy Day, who worked 38 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

among the outcast and homeless in early 20th-century America, as well as writings by Primo Levi.

The action moves backwards and forwards between the Biblical past and contemporary California.

The work, which had its world premiere in Los Angeles in 2012 when it was conducted by Gustavo Dudamel, will be conducted in Rome by the composer himself, who returns to S. Cecilia for the first time in a couple of decades.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

Haydn 2032 addio 7 nov

Haydn’s symphonies 35, 15, 45 and Scenes from Berenice will be performed as part of the project by the Joseph Haydn Foundation to play and record all of the composer’s 107 symphonies before the tri-centenary of his birth. Il Giardino Armonica and the Basel Chamber Orchestra conducted by Giovanni Antonini will perform all the 107 symphonies over a period of 19 concert seasons. This section of the project is called L’Addio, to be performed in Basel, Vienna and Rome. There were two Haydn 2032 concerts at S. Cecilia in the 2017-2018 season and this is the first of the new season. Sala Sinopoli. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

Daniil Trifonov 9-18 nov Daniil Trifonov has a busy programme of concerts in Italy in November. Bologna, Milan, Turin, Milan, Florence and finally S. Cecilia in Rome where he plays Rachmaninov’s concerto no 3.

In Rome he will be conducted

by Antonio Pappano with the S. Cecilia orchestra. He will then be included in the S. Cecilia tournée, conducted by Antonio Pappano, to South Korea and China immediately afterwards, where he will also play the same Rachmaninov concerto. In Rome the programme also includes Glinka’s Ruslan and Ludmilla overture and Tchaikovsky’s symphony No 4. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com.

XIAN SYMPHONY ORCHESTRA VIA DELLA SETA 22 nov To inaugurate the year dedicated to Via della Seta the Xian symphony orchestra performs Rossini’s Gazza Ladra, Tun Dun’s concerto for pipe played by Lan Weiwei and Tchaikovsky’s symphony no 5. Tun Dun the contemporary Chinese composer and conductor wrote the music for the Beijing Olympics medal ceremonies and won an Academy award for the best original film score for the film Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon. In May he conducted the premiere of his new work Buddha Passion in Germany.

Lan Wie is China’s best known player of the pipe and has been a keen promoter of traditional and Chinese folk music in the West.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

ARCADI VOLODOS

miriam batsashvili

26 nov

17 nov

istituzione universitaria dei concerti

orazio sciortino rossini allo specchio

The Russian pianist plays an exacting repertoire of music by Schubert, Rachmaninoff and Scriabin. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

quartetto ebène 6 nov

The French quartet, which plays a variety of genres from classical to jazz and crossover, performs Beethoven, Brahms and Ravel quartets at the IUC. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www. concertiiuc.it.

anna tifu, julien quentin 10 nov

Violinist Anna Tifu has been described by Salvatore Accardo as one of the most extraordinarily talented people he has met.

Accompanied by the French pianist Julien Quentin she will play music by Prokofiev, Chausson, Schumann and Ravel.

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

John Adam’s The Other Mary has its Italian premiere at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Pianist Miriam Batsashvili, who is still in her 20s, plays music by Bach, Chopin, Liszt, Mozart and Schubert. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

20 nov

During this concert, pianist and composer Orazio Sciortino will play the premiere of Fabio Massimo Capogrosso’s Quasi Walzer as well as music by Poulenc, Rossini and Schumann.

Sciortino playing a new work by Capogrosso, one of Italy’s new generation of composers, is an important occasion for followers of the latest in contemporary Italian classical music. In this concert Sciortino also marks the 150th anniversary of the death of Rossini. Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

romaeuropa festival

Romaeuropa presents some of the most intriguing and challenging music in Rome during November.

2-4 Nov. It starts with John Adam’s The Gospel according to the other Mary (see page 38 under S. Cecilia). 3 Nov. Sounds of Silences, music composed for four Charlie Chaplin films. This international competition is organised by Edison Studio and Cineteca di

Bologna. The Mattatoio. 6 Nov. The Zone with Fay Victor, Daniele Del Monaco and Marc Ribot.

Sala Petrassi, Auditorium Parco della Musica. 11 Nov. A concert with Cornelius Cardew and Alvin Curran. MAXXI Galleria 1. Also at MAXXI Galleria 1 is Symphony Device composed to the sounds of domestic appliances, televisions and gramophones. In the MAXXI auditorium there is Edison Studio’s rendering of music from the film La Corazzata Potemkin.

14-17 Nov. Et Manchi Pieta.

Artemisia Gentileschi e le musiche del suo tempo. A mix of video, art and music. Palazzo Barberini.

17 Nov. Curon/Graun inspired by the village of Curon/Graun in Trentino Alto Adige that was submerged in the 1950s against the wishes of its inhabitants to make way for an artificial lake. To the music of Avro Pärt.

Sala Petrassi, Auditorium Parco della Musica. 25 Nov. Intervals I and Intervals II by the Franco D’Andrea Octet. Jazz player and composer D’Andrea somehow manages to combine Schoenberg, African and avantgarde American music into his works. Teatro Studio Borgna, Auditorium Parco della Musica. 25 Nov. Remain in the Light by Talking Heads with Angelique Kidjo. 25 Nov. Matthew Herbert’s Brexit Big Band.

The big band sound of Matthew Herbert goes beyond Brexit to celebrate what unites people and musicians rather than what divides them, culminating in an album to be released as Britain leaves the EU in March 2019.

This two-year project has the support of the British Council.

Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica. For more on the Matthew Herbert Brexit project and ways to participate see www.matthewherbert.com/ brexit-big-band/.

Romaeuropa Festival also includes a number of sophisticated musical events for the young, which are detailed on the Romaeuropa website, www. romaeuropa.net.

39 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

odoroki.it

ROMA • FIRENZE • MILANO • BRESCIA SERRAVALLE (AL) • MONTEBELLO

Brazilian trio Tribalistas at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

ROCK, POP, JAZz DUB FX 2 nov

Dub FX performs at Monk Club alongside his regular collaborator, the Australian saxophonist Mr Woodnote. Dub FX is an Australian street performer and studio recording artist known for his live music using looping and effect pedals combined with his voice. He creates intricate hip hop, reggae and drum and bass rhythms. Monk, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www. monkroma.it.

MORCHEEBA 4 nov

Morcheeba returns to Rome with a concert at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The London band has a unique sound that mixes influences from trip hop, rock and pop, and is best known

for hits Rome wasn’t built in day, Enjoy the Ride and Otherwise. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it.

Auditorium

Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982.

TOMMY EMMANUEL AND JERRY DOUGLAS 6 nov Tommy

Emmanuel,

the

11 nov

The Brazilian trio Tribalistas comes to Rome as part of a European tour to celebrate the 15th anniversary of the band’s first album Tribalistas which has sold over three million copies worldwide. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com.

Australian guitarist and singer-

stefano bollani

songwriter best known for his

12 nov

complex

fingerstyle

technique,

performs in Rome with special guest Jerry Douglas, the American resonator guitar and lap steel guitar

player.

Auditorium

Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www. auditorium.com.

all blacks come to rome 24 nov

SPORT

TRIBALISTAS

The Italian rugby team face the All Blacks, the reigning world champions from New Zealand, on 24 November at Rome’s Stadio Olimpico. The match will be the final test for Italy in the Autumn International fixtures and will be preceded by three international games. Italy play against Ireland in Chicago on 3

Multi-talented Italian jazz pianist Stefano Bollani performs alongside as part of a quintet of Brazilian instrumentalists to promote his new album of Brazilian music, Que Bom. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 892982, www.auditorium.com.

November, Georgia in Florence on 10 November, and Australia in Padua on 17 November. The Roman clash will also be the final test between the two teams before the Rugby World Cup taking place in Japan in 2019: the Azzurri will face the All Blacks on 12 October 2019, in Toyota City in the last match of the RWC Pool B. See feature article page 4.

41 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

The festival Ō / Musica, Danza e Arte hosts an installation and talk by digital photographers Warren Du Preez and Nick Thornton Jones.

festivals Ō / MUSICA, DANZA E ARTE 14 SEP -16 DEC

Rome’s Baths of Diocletian provides the backdrop for Ō / Musica, Danza e Arte, a festival showcasing contemporary and experimental dance, art installations and dj sets, with live music ranging from electronic and alternative to techno, world and soul-pop. The cultural line-up features more than 40 international artists and djs including big names such as Anna Calvi, Matt Elliott, Jan Martens, Seth Troxler, Burnt Friedman and Julian Hargreaves. Organisers say the three-month festival is built around four pillars: experimenting, being open to new experiences,

interaction, and getting to know each other. The festival events take place at the Octagonal Hall (ex Planetarium venue), part of the Baths of Diocletian complex, on Via Giuseppe Romita 8. Entry is free, subject to availability, but reservation is required. For details see website, www.o-termedidiocleziano.com.

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL: BETWEEN WORLDS 19 Sept-25 Nov

The 33rd edition of Rome’s multidisciplinary arts festival is a particularly international affair this year, with 311 artists from 24 countries contributing to the programme of contemporary dance,

theatre, art, music and technology.

Under the title Between Worlds, Romaeuropa continues to expand, with 27 venues across Rome hosting 68 projects, 168 shows, 38 national premieres and more than 60 companies of which 40 are collaborating with Romaeuropa for the first time. Artistic director Fabrizio Grifasi describes the 2018 edition as a “world festival”, crossing themes, generations and borders.

Divided into categories Stories, Visions and Sounds, the programme also has numerous children’s events, under the umbrella REF Kids. See Music page 38, Dance page 43 and Theatre page 47. For full details see www.romaeuropa.net.

ROME RememberS the armistice 9-11 nov

2018 marks the end of a four-year period of reflection on world war one, with commemorative events being held around the world this month. The centenary is being marked in Rome at 10.45 on 9 November with a remembrance ceremony at the Rome War Cemetery, Via Nicola Zabaglia 50. The service will be attended 42 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

by many churches and faith communities in Rome, as well as those representing the embassies and armed services of countries involved in the conflict. Churches Together in Rome, in association with The New Chamber Singers choir, has organised a presentation: Remembrance Day in words and music: Lest we Forget – reflecting on themes from the war

and the hopes for peace which emerged – at All Saints’ Church, Via del Babuino 153, at 18.00 on 11 November. A remembrance resource titled Silence … we will remember them is available through Churches Together in Rome (contact its Chair, Rev. Dr. Tim Macquiban on tmacquiban@ gmail.com for copies) or on www. remembrance100.co.uk.

DANCE

DFS is a mix of Jamaican dance hall with classical and contemporary dance techniques.

MILAN TEATRO aLLA SCALA THE NUTCRACKER 16 DEC-15 JAN

Balanchine’s choreography of this Christmas favourite opens the new ballet season at La Scala with a new production with the participation of the theatre’s ballet school. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.

ROME

reality work with choreographer Gilles Jobin in collaboration with Caecilia Charbonnier and Sylvain Chague of the VR studio Artanim.

Members of the audience (five at a time) become the protagonists of the performance. Istituto Svizzera, Via Ludovisi 48. 23-24 Nov. DFS is a work by Cecilia Bengolea and François Chaignaud which combines Jamaican dancehall traditions and music with classical and contemporary dance techniques.

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78. For more details about this exciting dance programme see www. romaeuropa.net.

turin torinodanza 10 sept-1 dec

The theme of this year’s contemporary dance festival in Turin is based on Leonard Cohen’s unforgettable song Dance me to the end of love. Torinodanza explores the overlapping disciplines of dance, music, theatre, image and video, all now coalescing in contemporary dance. 30 Nov1 Dec. Requiem Pour L by Alain Platel. Inspired by Mozart’s Requiem.

Fonderie Limone Moncalieri. For full details see www.torinodanzafestival.it.

Nudità with Virgilio Sieni’s dance and Mimmo Cuticchio’s puppets.

ROMAEUROPa festival This festival which is a feast for lovers of contemporary dance lives up to its promise right until the end. 15 Nov. Nudità is a mix of dance, theatre and puppetry created by Virgilio Sieni and Mimmo Cuticchio in which Sieni’s dance intermingles with Cuticchio’s puppets. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1.

21-23 Nov. VR-1, which won the prize for innovation at the 2018 Sundance Festival, is a virtual 43 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

44 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Elektra by Ricard Strauss at La Scala in the production by the late Patrice Chereau.

opera MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ELEKTRA

BY STRAUSS

Ildar Abdrazakov sings the role of Attila and Saioa Hermandez as Odabella. Abdrazakov has sung the role many times and has recently performed at La Scala in Ernani but Hermandez is new to the role and to La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

4-29 Nov

Elektra will be conducted by Christoph von Dohnányi who at 88 returns to conduct an opera at La Scala for the first time since 1977. He will also be conducting Mozart’s Idomeneo at La Scala in May next year. Patrice Chereau’s staging of Elektra is a co-production with Aix en Provence festival, the Met in New York, Unter Den Linden Berlin, as well as Barcelona and Helsinki opera houses. This was one of the last works produced by Chereau before he died in 2013. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

Attila by verdi 7 dec 11 dec-8 jan

Verdi’s opera Attila opens the La Scala season on 7 Dec with Riccardo Chailly conducting a new production by David Livermore.

rome TEATRO dell’opera di roma le nozze di figaro by mozart 30 oct-11 Nov

Mozart’s Marriage of Figaro ends the season at Teatro dell’Opera, with a new production by Graham Vick, conducted by Stefano Montanari. Vick first produced this opera at Glyndebourne in 2000 (and it has since been listed as one of the top ten Glyndebourne productions) so it will be interesting to see what new ideas he has for it nearly two decades later. www.operaroma.it.

rigoletto by verdi 30 oct-11 Nov

A new production of Verdi’s opera opens the 2018-2019 season in Rome. Daniele Gatti conducts and the director is Daniele Abbado.

American soprano Lisette Oropesa, who alternates in the part of Gilda with Claudia Pavone, sang in Rigoletto at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma two years ago and at the Arena festival in Verona in August this year. The Peruvian tenor Ivan Ayon Rivas, who takes the part of the Duke of Mantova, sang at the Teatro dell’Opera in June this year as Rodolfo in La bohème. He shares the role with Ismael Jordi who goes on to the Zurich Opera House to sing the Duke of Manova after Rome.

Roberto Frontali as Rigoletto will sing the same part at New York’s Met after his appearance in Rome. Sebastian Catana comes from singing Rigoletto in Belfast and the Berkshire opera festival this summer. He was last seen in Rome when he took the part of Germont in La Traviata in Oct 2017. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

45 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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THEATRE TREND

18 oct-22 dec

The 17th edition of Trend: New frontiers of the British scene takes place at Teatro Belli in Trastevere, with the support of the capital.

The drama festival provides a bridge between established and emerging British and Irish talent, and the programme contains award-winning works from noted playwrights as well as recent plays by younger authors, translated into Italian. The programme continues into November with BU21 by Stuart Slade (2-4 Nov), En Attendant Beckett by Glauco Mauri and Roberto Sturno (7-11 Nov), Not Not Not Not Not Enough Oxygen by Caryl Churchill (13-15 Nov), All the Things I Lied About

by Katie Bonna (16-18 Nov), Killology by Gary Owen (20-24 Nov), A Behanding in Spokane by Martin McDonagh (26-28 Nov), Harrogate by Al Smith (30 Nov3 Dec), Growth by Luke Norris (5-8 Dec), The Bogus Woman by Kay Adshead (10-12 Dec), Yellow Moon by David Greig (14-15 Dec), Conservatory by Michael West (16 Dec), The Prudes by Anthony Neilson (17-19 Dec), and Lungs

by Duncan Macmillan (20-22 Dec). Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it.

THE ROME SAVOYARDS 1-4 nov

The Rome Savoyards present an English-language production of Major Barbara. Considered one of George Bernard Shaw’s most thought-provoking and witty plays, Major Barbara is a bittersweet comedy that highlights the conflict between power and poverty. Set in 1905, the play follows Major Barbara Undershaft, a devoted Salvation Army officer, who becomes disillusioned when her Christian denomination accepts charity money from her armamentsmanufacturing millionaire father. She initially sees the Salvation Army’s acceptance of her father’s money as hypocrisy but eventually comes to the conclusion that people with power are more in need of salvation than converting the hungry in return for food. Shaw himself derided the notion that charities should only accept money from “morally pure” sources, pointing out that donations can always be used for good, whatever their provenance.

1-2 Nov 20.30, 3-4 Nov 17.30.

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (near Piazza Mazzini in Prati), www.romesavoyards.it.

romaeuropa festival until 25 nov

Romaeuropa Festival presents numerous innovative theatrical productions in November. Here is just a taste. With The Repetition.

Paolo Gioli exhibition Anthropolaroid at the American Academy in Rome. Autoanatomie, 1987.

Histoire(s) du Théâtre (I), Swiss director and documentarymaker Milo Rau addresses the relationship between staging and authenticity, and asks how theatre can come to meet and retrace life (9-11 Nov). Minefield sees Argentine director Lola Arias stage a confrontation between Argentine and British veterans of the Falklands / Malvinas war (16-18 Nov). Gretel e Hänsel, created by Emanuela Dall’Aglio with Mirto Baliani for the Teatro delle Briciole in Parma, interprets the classic fairytale through an enormous costume large enough to house the entire fable inside.

Part of the ReF kids + family section (17-18 Nov). Untwasser is a visual and multidisciplinary performance, by all-female Roman crew Out, recounting fairytales through puppets made from glass and metal. For ReF kids + family (23-25 Nov). For details see website, www.romaeuropa.net.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 20 nov

Rome’s Comedy Club is a popular monthly evening of standup in English by Rome-based comics and visiting comedians. The €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00 and show starts at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email makairoma@gmail.com.

Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali 4/a/b/c (Ostiense).

AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 11 Oct-9 DEC

ACADEMIES

The American Academy in Rome hosts Anthorpolaroid, an exhibition of work by Italian artist Paolo Gioli as part of an ongoing series of public events exploring the body as a site of subjectivity and meaning from antiquity 47 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

to the present. Born in 1942, Gioli was among the first artists to master Polaroid transfers in the early 1970s, marrying the process with handmade pinhole cameras to create timeless images centred on the human body and its fragments. Curated by the Academy’s Arts Director, Peter Benson Miller, the exhibition can be visited Fri-Sun 16.00-19.00.

13 NOV

Milton Gendel Centenary. An international panel of speakers will discuss the multifaceted career of the recently-deceased Milton Gendel, the American art critic, photographer, journalist, translator, cultural diplomat, and long-time resident of Rome, on the centenary of his birth. The event will also be the official memorial for Gendel who died in Rome on 11 October, just two months shy of his 100th birthday. The Rome correspondent for both ARTnews and Art in America, Gendel reported on artistic developments and was also involved in the activities of the Rome New York Art Foundation on Tiber Island, which hosted a series of groundbreaking exhibitions from 1957 to 1962. The American Academy in Rome describes Gendel’s photographic archive, comprising 70,000 negatives conserved by Rome’s Fondazione Primoli, as representing an “unparalleled and often witty Joseph Beuys at Casa di Goethe.

48 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

record of international artistic ferment in Italy and the dramatic transformation of the country from 1950 to the present day.”

American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 8 NOV

The natural world: pagans and Christians — animal and vegetable. The noted scholar of ancient history, Robin Lane Fox (University of Oxford) will discuss the natural world in pagan and Christian Rome, examining the practical effects of the writings of Paul and the Gospels on contemporary life up to circa 500 AD. The lecture is co-organised with the American Academy in Rome as part of the 2018 Thomas Spencer Jerome Lectures Series, a prestigious international platform for the presentation of new work on Roman history and culture.

18.00-19.30.

British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel.

063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

CASA DI GOETHE 9 NOV-20 JAN

The Casa di Goethe examines the travels in Italy of Joseph Beuys (1921-1986) through a series of “objects, posters, postcards, photographs, invitations, memories and signs of affection”

relating to the mutifaceted German artist. The material was discovered in antiques fairs and curiosity shops by Giuseppe Garrera, who is behind the project, and relates to Beuy’s exhibitions and happenings in Capri, Naples, Foggia, Rome, Venice and Bolognano. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

GERMAN ACADEMY 11 OCT-5 DEC

Rome’s German Academy at Villa Massimo presents Fotografia 5, an exhibition containing images by photographers and contemporaries Stefan Moses and Bernd & Hilla Becher. Moses is known for his portraiture including projects such as Die großen Alten (1962 - 2000), of which a selection is on display at Villa Massimo. The joint work of Bernd & Hilla Becher, who began collaborating in 1959, includes several noted series on houses, the photographs taken in overcast conditions. This exhibition is the fifth in a series of shows illustrating the evolution of German photography from the 1920s to today by contrasting the images of two photographers working in the same era.

Accademia Tedesca Roma Villa Massimo, Largo di Villa Massimo 1-2, tel. 064425931. www. villamassimo.de.

49 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city.

The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city.

There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums.

Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

All www.filarmonicaromana.org.

The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome. often concerts, and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, festivals Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year.

There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades

by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards.

Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome 50 50 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATR THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

cc

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

c

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.

Seecinemas Wantedshow in Rome website for The following movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello 0686391361 tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068

Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel.

0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel.

065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel.

Coubertin, tel.

06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731, www.casajazz.it

t

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel.

14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel.

065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it

Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel.

PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel.

Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina , Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 |51 Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

WANTED junior inROME Selection of Haibun from students of St. Stephen’s School, Rome A note from Moira Egan, Creative Writing Teacher: The haibun is a traditional Japanese form composed of two interconnected sections: prose poem and haiku. Popularised by the 17th-century Japanese poet Matsuo Bashō, the form has often been used to describe travel. It is a tradition in the Creative Writing class to write haibun based on the students’ school trips. This year, I decided to split the assignment into two parts: a “domestic” haibun and a “trip” haibun. Here is a small selection of their work, based on home or experiences of Rome, with one piece by a student representing each grade level at our school.

The Shelves I Wrote About in Sixth Grade Once

by Cristina Rizzo, Grade, age 17 Top row. Blotches of flower-spurts spawn like rabbits gated by frames. First Schifano’s blues and wipe-whites hide behind a Bali plantation of floating yellow trees like fungus-clouds: artist unknown. Skip one and Cagli’s pond of gold and depth-hues shines in shadow. In the middle there’s Marilyn; she could be a Warhol but is she really? Right right: my dad’s white car: a white chocolate bar in front of a store closed for lunch. Purgatory’s a cluster of glossed boxes: radios from any dot on a timeline. Brown woven cloth to hug voices of a day far from now.

Who knows who’s touched them? I slide my finger on their curve-edged stomachs; it comes up to breathe covered in dust. From here gold plates shine and house knobs and buttons that click and turn like fluid springs. One in particular: a pale cyclops with pearl earrings.

Art in shadow.

It hides its hues from me.

I squint but they blur.

Haibun

by Laura Rizzo, Grade, age 16 “Put this red one behind your ear”, my mother whispered, handing me a tiny red flower she ripped from a bigger one that contained a multitude. It recalled the red of my new tank top and the heavy brown of my eyes. “You! Take the orange one” she reassured my sister, as my father picked up his camera, readily fitting each of us into the screen, one at a time, and the black box let out a squeal. Then she sprinkled some tangerine on my sister’s chocolate hair and then on mine. I could really only see the outstretch of her arm, and her face and chest above me, and thought that if it were to rain, how the rain would pierce her and not me. The only way I was able to tell the flowers were on my head was that each tiny one of them tickled my scalp as it landed between my thick strands of hair with a thump only I could hear. The box squealed 52 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

again and I thought how we’d look like the Greek goddess of harvest with all our leaves and our flowers slightly above our hairlines.

The orange smell of Wet limbs of trees and wine Skins of berries Then I twirled the soft stems between my thumb and my forefinger, dissecting them with my fingernails. First cutting them in half, then in fourths, until all that was left was the flower juice in the space between my nails.

Silky petals the Size of lemon-colored beads And blood orange too.

I shift in my covers; eyes heavy as anvils, cornered to the wall of my room; a pocket of warmth in the gelid air outside. I stare at the pictures in their standsShe looks at me with Heavy brown eyes in a frame, Boasting of her color.

The solution for s(H)ome of your problems

by Luca Di Cicco, Grade, age 15 When you think that your world is falling apart, when even the strongest flowers inside you wither, dropping their silky petals, when you feel cold like it’s snowing, when you think that everything and everyone is against you, there’s only one place to go to. A place where you feel accepted, a place where you feel protected. It is nowhere and everywhere at the same time, it is inside you and outside too, after the beautiful sea’s scent, between the bamboo bark and leaves, tasting cherries and rice on a farm, breathing fresh air; I’m not lying. This special place is called home, which is not only your family or your relatives: it is whatever makes you feel good, it is whatever you keep close to yourself. It’s

the wind whispering, it’s the smell of grass and resin, it’s the fish in the river that, from the high mountains peaks, flows quietly to its death; it’s the white colomb in the sky and it’s the girl who is humming, exploring her hair’s consistency. It’s a utopian place that exists only inside you, like the ink that flows on this paper, which has a secret meaning, too.

Wind whispers to you, The message is confused by birds.

It’s saying: home.

Gelato

by Peter Mayer, Grade, age 14 Gelato. The walk from the dim, dank, dining hall out to street. The door opening and the outside flavors rushing through your nose. So many flavors in just one savory lick, each one finding a place to rest on your tongue.

Every bit melting Cold sweet savory liquid Oozing down your throat.

The rush of pain in your head as the brainfreeze starts, like a thousand icicles all stabbing into your brain via the roof of your mouth.

The icky sticky mess left on your hands, the result of the melting gelato in your hand.

The useless attempt to clean the mess with the brittle, plastic-like napkins. Everyone in a circle under the tree outside, all attentively watching, waiting for someone’s gelato to slide off its cone onto the ground.

JUNIOR Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome.

Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student.

We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

53 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

54 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

RISOTTO RADICCHIO E GORGONZOLA

By Kate Zagorski Winter is a great time for radicchio. Endless versions of the purple and white vegetable can be seen in the markets around Rome including squat, round cabbage-like balls, elegant elongated ovals and the distinctive Treviso variety with its long, deep-violet tendrils. Radicchio is a member of the chicory family and has a bitter tang which softens and sweetens when cooked. This pairs perfectly with blue cheese such as gorgonzola which has a creamy texture, slightly salty flavour and touch of spiciness.

This perfect marriage of radicchio and gorgonzola is right at home in a warming bowl of risotto. Risotto can be tricky to get right, it needs to be cooked enough to create a thick, unctuous sauce from the rice starch but it should at the same time maintain a slight al dente ‘bite’ to avoid a sludgy, soupy or watery texture.

Stirring and tasting is the key so make sure not to take your eye of the stove for too long.

This risotto pairs very well with a fragrant white wine such as a Chardonnay or even a fresh, sparkling rosé.

Ingredients for 2 people 200g radicchio, cut into thin strips 70g gorgonzola piccante, cubed 1 small red onion, finely chopped 30g butter

3 small (espresso) cups of Arborio rice 1 litre of vegetable stock Extra virgin olive oil Half glass of white wine Salt

First prepare the radicchio, in a small pan add 2 spoonfuls of olive oil and gently fry a whole, peeled clove of garlic for a few minutes. Add the radicchio and fry for a further 5 minutes until soft.

In the meantime, in a large pan heat the butter and a splash of olive oil and fry the chopped onion for a few minutes until soft and translucent. Add the rice and a pinch of salt. Lightly toast the rice and then add half a glass of white wine. The rice will release starch at become very compact. Once the alcohol has evaporated add the cooked radicchio and cook together for around 3 minutes. Then add enough stock to cover the rice and continue to stir. Once the liquid is absorbed continue to gradually add stock, all the while stirring, until the rice is cooked, approximately 10-15 minutes. Taste to check that the rice is al dente and the sauce is thick and creamy.

Once the risotto is cooked add the gorgonzola and mix until melted. Serve immediately.

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre.

Here is where to is find Rome’s mainRome’s street art projects from the centre.

Here where to find main streetand artmurals. projects and murals.

Esquilino Esquilino Murals

by Alice Pasquini, Gio Murals byNicola Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Alessandrini, Pistone, Casa Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. dell’Architettura, Diamond.

Casa Piazza Mafredo Fantidell'Architettura, 47.

Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The dai M.A.G.R. (Museoby French Abusivo Gestito Rom), a project Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a street artist Seth is located in a former former soap factory on Via Antonio soap factory on Via Antonio AvogaAvoga-dro, opposite Ostiense’s dro, opposite Ostiense's landmark landmark Gasometro. For details see Gasometro.

For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Ostiense Metropoliz Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto This former meat factory in the Fluviale. outskirts of by Rome is nowIacurci. a street Fish’n'Kids Agostino Via art as well as being home to delmuseum Porto Fluviale. some squatting Wall 200 of Fame

by JBmigrants.

Rock. ViaThe dei Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Magazzini Generali.

Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open Shelley by Ozmo.

Ostiense underpass, onVia Saturdays, Ostiense. and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Pigneto Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Echaurren Tributes to Pablo Pier Paolo Pasoliniand by Borondo. page Maupal, See Mr.MAAM Klevra Facebook and Omino 71. for ViadaPrenestina 913.

Viadetails.

Fanfulla Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Ostiense Francesco Fronte DelBaracca.

Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Prati Fish’n’Kids

by Agostino Iacurci. Via Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo del Porto Fluviale.

Mercato Trionfale, Via Rock.

AndreaVia Doria.

Wall of Fame

by JB dei Daniza the Generali. bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Magazzini Shelley by Ozmo.

Ostiense Penestino Via Ostiense. underpass, This former meat by factory the Palazzo occupato Blu, in Via outskirts of Rome is now a street art Ostiense. museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

56 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via Fanfulla da Lodi. migrants.

Museo dell’Altro e 2501 muralThe on Via Fortebraccio. dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, MAAM, Blu Landscape

by Sten &orLex. Via is only open on Saturdays, and Francesco Baracca. features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Prati Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond.

See Anna Magnani portrait

by Diavù.

MAAM Facebook for details.

Nuovo Mercato page Trionfale, Via Via Prenestina Andrea Doria. 913.

Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Primavalle Cristoforo Numai.

The Roadkill

by Fintan Magee. Via Theseus stabbing Cristoforo Numai. the Minotaur by Pixelpancho.

Via Pietro Theseus stabbing the Bembo.

Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Quadraro Pistone. murals Via Decio Tunnel byMure.

Mr THOMS and NidoPistone. di Vespe Via

by Lucamaleonte.

Gio Decio Mure. Via del Monte Grano.

Nido didel Vespe

by Lucamaleonte. Via Baby Hulkdel byGrano.

Ron English. Via dei del Monte PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Baby Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Rebibbia Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Murals

by Blu. Via Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia

by Zerocalcare.

Palombini dè Pazzi).

Metro B station.

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

S. Basilio features large-scale works on S.SanBa Basilio the façades of social-housing blockson in SanBa features large-scale works the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of the of social-housing blocks S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerain the disadvantaged north-east tion project

by Italian suburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu The regenera-tion project includes alongside Maiolati, works

by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via corner of Via Farsalo.

S.Apulia Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini.

It’s New Day

by Alice Pasquini. Via Via aAnton Ludovico.

Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide

by Sardi.

Elisa Caracciolo.

Caracciolo.mural Via Dei Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo.

Via dei Volsci 159.

Borondo.

Via Agostino dei Volsci 159.

Mural by Iacurci on Mural

by Agostino Iacurci on the the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma

by Bordalo S. di S.Cabra Pietro, Clivo II. diStazione Monte didel Pietro, Gallo. Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Testaccio Testaccio Hunted byby ROA. ViaVia Galvani.

HuntedWolf Wolf ROA. Galvani. #KindComments by by Alice Pasquini, Via #KindComments Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market.

Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Tor Pignattara Pignattara Dulk.

Dulk. Via ViaAntonio AntonioTempesta.

Tempesta.

Etnik.

Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51.

Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello Coffee Break by Etamby Cru. Via Ludovico 51. Coffee Break Etam Cru. Via Pavoni.

Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom

by Jef Via Gabrio TomSawyer Sawyer

by Aerosol.

Jef Aerosol.

Via Serbelloni.

Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini Former Cinema Cinema Pasolini by

by Diavù.

Diavù. Former Impero, Impero,Via ViaAcqua AcquaBullicante.

Bullicante.

Hostia Nicola Verlato.Verlato.

Via Galeazzo Hostiaby by Nicola Via Alessi.

Galeazzo Alessi.

Herakut.

Herakut.Via ViaCapua Capua14.14.

Agostino Muzio Oddi 6. 6.

AgostinoIacurci.

Iacurci.Via Via Muzio Oddi Tor Tor Marancia Marancia The LifeLife scheme features 14-m The Big BigCity City scheme features tall murals by 22 Italian and interna14-m tall murals by 22 Italian tional street artists street includingartists Mr and interna-tional Klevra, Seth, and Jerico.

The idea including MrGaia Klevra, Seth, Gaia and was to The transform thetoarea's blocksthe of Jerico. idea was transform flats into an open-air museum.

Via area’s blocks of flatsartinto an openTor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it. air art museum.

Via Tor Marancia.

For full details see website, www. bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

57 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

• Zia Rosetta, Via Urbana 54, tel. 0631052516.

• Avocado Bar, Via della Madonna dei Monti 103.

• Ami pokè, Via della Madonna dei Monti 38.

• Pizza Trieste, Via Urbana 112/113, tel. 064815319.

• Aromaticus, Via Urbana 134, tel. 064881355.

• Crèpes Galettes, Via Leonina, 21/A, tel. 3896683360.

• Fehu, Via del Boschetto 129, tel. 0694323142.

58 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Indirizzi

• Tacos&Beer, Via del Boschetto 130, tel. 0694375366.

Affordable street food in Rome: eight places to try in Monti Monti is a charming area of Rome, only two minutes from the Colosseum. Loved by both Romans and tourists, it’s full of great places to eat and many fun bars. We’ve put together a list of the best places to enjoy a bite to eat without having to sit down at a formal restaurant and spend a fortune.

Tacos & Beer

Aromaticus

Here you can tuck into tacos, burritos and nachos, washed down with an ice-cold beer or glass of tequila. All the above cost €5 for a portion, a Coca Cola is €2 and a Peroni €2.50. You can also order take out on Just Eat.

This is a lovely spot for some delicious food and for a look at the array of beautiful plants and herbs (which are all for sale). We highly recommend the fassona beef from Piedmont (€10) and the Gravlax (€10). There are also many salads to choose from and a tasty chickpea dish (all €6).

Zia Rosetta At Zia Rossetta you can order one of the ten different gourmet panini on offer. The small panino costs €2-3, the regular between €4.50 and €6. In this tiny eatery you can also try one of the excellent smoothies or juices (€4). You can also order take out via their website, ww.ziarosetta.com.

Avocado Bar The first restaurant to serve a purely avocado-based menu, this place offers a menu of international street food dishes such as the Camaron Wrap (prawns, guacamole, sweet corn and salad) for €6, the summer tartare (avocado, melon and cucumber) for €10; or the avocado toast for €7. You can order take out from Foodora.

Ami Pokè Italy’s first Hawaiian bar Ami Pokè serves fresh diced fish seasoned with salt and anchovies. Appetisers start at €7, the Classic Pokè, with rice, salmon, avocado, edamame and soya beans, costs €10. It’s a small restaurant with a bar and a couple of large tables with five or six stools.

Crèpes Galettes At Crepès Galettes you can be transported all the way from Monti to Brittany. There are several galettes on the menu, as well as savoury crèpes which can be made to order. They are cooked in front of you and made with organic buckwheat. There are four or five (uncomfortable) stools where you can sit if you’d like to eat in. Prices start from €5.

Fehu This little eatery centres its menu around bruschetta. There are many versions to try but our favourite is with stracciatella, ‘Favola’ mortadella and pistachio pesto. You can also order cured meats and cheeses. This is the perfect spot for aperitivo or a quick supper. There are craft beers available and some interesting wines. Open for lunch and dinner until 23.00.

Pizza Trieste This pizza place opened up in Monti straight from Pescara in Abruzzo three years ago and it’s still the talk of the town. The prices depend on what you’re in the mood for but you can have a slice for as little as €2.50. We recommend the pizza with sausage.

www.puntarellarossa.it

59 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Accommodation vacant in town

Rome Central Station, 25 minutes ride €550 monthly. drroversi@gmail.com. Tel. 3477037894.

TRASTEVERE STATION/MARCONI 2 BEDROOMS FOR STUDENTS Via Fermi (Marconi). Quite apartment of 75 sqm, fullyfurnished and equipped. Wide entrance, 2 bedrooms, 1.5 bathrooms, large kitchen, storage room, terrace, caretaker/janitor. Pls email for info or call 3490861468 to view the flat.

TIVOLI-MANDELA 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

WONDERFUL ROOM TO RENT IN TRASTEVERE Wonderful room to rent in Trastevere, near tram H. Garden, English and Italian speaking. €400+expenses (€150). Please call 3683495236 (Italian) and 3318221358 (English) or email: mcristiani@tiscalinet.it.

MANZONI AREA Garden apartment renting, six months minimum at €800 a month. Contact: dellascala4@gmail.com.

VIGNA CLARA - GIOCHI DELFICI 25 sqm studio apartment. Bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, completely furnished. €550 monthly, all included. Please call 3467882036.

TRASTEVERE Independent on a private courtyard. Living room, kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom with shower, completely furnished and provided with linen. Close to all public transport and shops. Long and short term rents. Contact marilu_vitali@yahoo.it.

Accommodation vacant out of town FURNISHED COTTAGE NEAR ROME Attractive furnished cottage 60 sqm, 1 bedroom, 1 sitting room, living kitchen, bathroom, garden, great location in Zagarolo, 20 miles from Rome. Frequent trains to

CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza 14 Nov 19 Dec PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione 3 Dec 7 Jan

Jobs vacant TOUR OPERATOR IS LOOKING Tour operator is looking for outgoing English, Spanish, German speaking people to give info and assistance to tourists in the Colosseum area. Working time from 09.0014.00. Contact mackhugs@gmail.com.

ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to aurelia@angloamericankids.it.

Lessons FRENCH QUALIFIED TEACHER Need to learn French for fun, business or culture?

English, Italian, Spanish speaking. Loves teaching, your house or mine. Please leave telephone number or email.

Tel. 3299823826; f.bessoles.rm@gmail.com.

WANTED IN ROME DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENT OF THE ADVERTISEMENTS IT PUBLISHES. Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

60 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

Poetry IT’S NIGHT It’s night I am alone thinking about mental disease, fuori Corviale. Che ci vuoi fare. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

IMMIGRANTS Immigrants, what do we do? Poor indù. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

Property sale out of town CHARMING AND COSY WOODEN COTTAGE FOR SALE Charming and cosy “baita” wooden cottage + 2 bedroom Cottage annex, at 20 miles driving distance from Rome, in the Parco di Vejo Natural Reserve. The property, located in an elevated position, is set in a unique and dreamy landscape. It is set on a 2.5 acre area with woodland, a large flat lawn (football field size) located in front of the main house, olive trees, an orchard, and a rich diversity of flowers, plants and trees. It is enriched by an eating area with a brick wood fired pizza oven, and a lit dancing floor to use in the warm summer nights by the moon. €660.000. Mail pierdavid@tiscali.it.

Rooms and flat shares WONDERFUL ROOM TO RENT IN TRASTEVERE Wonderful room to rent in Trastevere, near tram H. Included photos. Garden, English and Italian speaking. €400+expenses (€150). Please call 3683495236 (Italian) and 3318221358 (English) or email: mcristiani@ tiscalinet.it

LOOK FOR MORE CLASSIFIED ADS ON WWW.WANTEDINROME.COM Free Classified Advertisements. All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted v ia o ur website a t www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements p laced o n our website w ill be downloaded a nd published i n the magazine, but o nly if t hey include contact d etails. J obs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in o ur office but m ust be p laced d irectly o n our website www.wantedinrome.com.

61 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter Italy info@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com.

Internatuinal Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836924 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S.Lyigi dei Francesi, 23, tel.0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 8.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piaza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) 62 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel, 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel.0642014554. Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18-00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel, 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Chirch Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrwe’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 8.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S.Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel.064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di ROma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victisms of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distredded) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 63 | Sept 2018 • Wanted in Rome

38

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

FEBRUARY 18 - MARCH 3 TEATRO COSTANZI CONDUCTOR

SPERANZA SCAPPUCCI DIRECTOR

VINCENZO BELLINI

STORIES • VISIONS • SOUNDS FROM 19.9 TO 25.11

la sonnambula

GIORGIO BARBERIO CORSETTI

26 LOCATIONS IN ROME

ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

KIDS + FAMILY music

science - media - music - visual art

NEW PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH TEATRO PETRUZZELLI DI BARI

FRANK ZAPPA ACCADEMIA TEATRO ALLA SCALA • PETER RUNDEL

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GIUSEPPE VERDI

Multimedia concerts and performances from 4.10 to 7.10 • MATTATOIO

la traviata

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo and David Downton

FEBRUARY 24 - MARCH 4 TEATRO COSTANZI

SOFIA COPPOLA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

FEBRUARY 25 TEATRO NAZIONALE DIRECTOR

FABIO CHERSTICH SET, COSTUME AND VIDEO DESIGN

GIANLUIGI TOCCAFONDO “FABBRICA” YOUNG ARTIST PROGRAM AND YOUTH ORCHESTRA OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

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The Yellow Shark • 10.10 AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA

theatre • show in English national premiere

11 - 20.10 • TEATRO VITTORIA

PETER BROOK THE PRISONER

dance national premiere

theatre • show in English

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