Wanted in Rome - February 2018

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CONT

EDITORIALS 4. Rome’s wild animals

Andy devane

8. trajan’s world martin bennett

12. six nations rugby

marco venturini

18. skiing near rome gabrielle bolzoni

MISCELLANY

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NEXT PUBLICATION AND CLASSIFIED DATES Next publication dates are 1 March and 2 April.

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Einstein as a saint Street art poster by unknown artist Via Giuseppe Mirri, Collatino Photo Valentino Bonacquisti www.fotografiaerrante.com See Einstein-related exhibition Gravity at MAXXI page 30.

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six nations rugby

books

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rome’s wild animals

Nature

ROME’S WILD ANIMALS THE EBB AND FLOW OF ROME’S NATURAL WORLD IS DOCUMENTED IN AN EXHIBITION AT THE CITY’S ZOOLOGY MUSEUM

Andy Devane

W

hen a family of wolves was filmed on the green fringes of Rome last September – signifying a return to the capital after more than a century – it made headlines around the world.

The wolves were recorded by hidden cameras at Castel di Guido, a nature reserve managed by the Italian league for bird protection (LIPU), not far from Fiumicino airport and the former Malagrotta dump.

In recent weeks LIPU revealed that the wolf family includes five cubs, one of which is disabled, dragging its hind legs, probably the result of a trauma or degenerative disease.

LIPU officials are currently working to ensure the wellbeing of the wolves, a protected species in Italy since 1971, including trying to keep stray dogs at bay to avoid the birth of hybrids.

Wolves were first sighted at Castel di Guido in 2013.

In December, just when Romans were getting over the wolf news, a video surfaced online of a family of wild boar, or cinghiali, pottering around the streets of Trastevere, a stone’s throw from Tiber Island. The early morning amble of the boars – comprising hog, sow and six jolly piglets – was among the most brazen daylight incursions of the city centre by wild animals in modern times. Another popular recent video features a Roman motorist racing a wild boar – complete with excited but unprintable commentary – up Via Baldo degli Ubaldi near the Vatican.

Rome is also experiencing increasing difficulty with visitors from the skies, such as seagulls and starlings, while its problem with rats is as old as the city itself, despite the capital’s environment councillor Pinuccia Montanari’s claim never to have seen one.

But why this bold behavioural change in wild animals and birds “muscling in” on our city?

The principal answer involves easy access to discarded food, available to take away or eat directly from bin-bags, pecked open helpfully by gulls and crows. Other factors enticing animals into the city include a warmer urban climate and, in many cases, a lack of natural predators.

A current exhibition at Rome’s Zoology Museum showcases the evolution of the city’s ecosystem based on the important studies undertaken at the museum. Parks and ancient ruins provide a new, alternative habitat for

4 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Nature

wild animals and birds whose urbanisation is happening before our eyes. Within Rome’s green belt there are 1,300 wild plant species, 5,200 types of insects, 16 varieties of reptile, 140 different birds and 33 species of mammal.

Under the shadow of a whale skeleton suspended from the ceiling, the exhibition Diverso per natura charts how these creatures have adapted to a city environment, how they live, how they interact with humans, even how they die.

Newly stuffed by the resident taxidermist, the deceased animals “acquire an extraordinary value – a second life,” the museum’s director Bruno Cignini told Wanted in Rome. The exhibit at the Museo Civico di Zoologia di Roma is also designed to educate visitors on the precarious balance between mankind and the natural world.

Wild boar on the streets of Settebagni in north Rome.

However the 1950s saw the arrival of the nutria, a destructive beaver-like rodent released in large numbers following the sudden fall-off in demand for its fur. The herbivorous animals are now a familiar sight on the Tiber’s banks.

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Cignini explains that certain One example given is species adapt to new the fragile habitat of the environments far quicker than sandpiper, or fratino, a others. The most wily of these is tiny wading bird which THE EXHIBITION the fox, or volpe, which he says makes its nest in open CHARTS HOW is “living all over Rome, even ground on the sea shore. in the historic centre.” Cignini However its summer THESE ANIMALS says that he recently received breeding season means HAVE ADAPTED a phone call from Trajan’s that it faces significant Markets, a museum at the foot TO THE CITY risks on beaches popular of Via Nazionale, seeking advice with humans.

The about how to liberate a visiting exhibition features a fox. From a geographical mother sandpiper, her perspective, Cignini points out minuscule chick nestled that animals such as the fox under her wing, huddled have more or less an uninterrupted green low over the sands at Torre Flavia, a coastal corridor running from the city’s southern area north-west of Rome. Cignini suggests that Parco dell Appia, near Ciampino airport, all the sight of the mother bird minding her baby the way to the Colosseum. might make people think twice about leaving rubbish behind them or be more aware when The zoology museum’s taxidermist Maurizio setting up camp on remote shores. This, he Gattabria is pictured retrieving a dead fox, says, is part of the “seconda vita” effect of the knocked down by a motorist on nearby Valle exhibited creatures.

Giulia. Freshly stuffed, the unfortunate beast is now a playful fellow climbing a grapevine.

Another thought-provoking aspect of the Gattabria says that each animal received show involves the animals that once thrived by the museum is given a “carta d’identità”, in the greater Rome area but are now extinct. outlining as much information as possible, One such case is that of the otter, or lontra, before being stored for future analysis. which lived along the Tiber until a century ago, when it died out due to pollution and In times past, Gattabria says, the birds and human activity.

”

5 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Le Sinfonie Auditorium Parco della Musica Roma infoline 068082058 www.santacecilia.it

Antonio Pappano direttore Orchestra, Coro e Voci bianche dell’Accademia Nazionale di Santa Cecilia Bernstein Sinfonia n. 1 “Jeremiah” Prelude, Fugue and Riffs Sinfonia n. 2 “The Age of Anxiety”

Brahms Concerto per violino Bernstein Sinfonia n. 3 “Kaddish”

Beatrice Rana pianoforte Marie-Nicole Lemieux mezzosoprano

Kyung Wha Chung violino Nadine Sierra soprano

giovedì 15 febbraio ore 19.30 venerdì 16 febbraio ore 20.30 sabato 17 febbraio ore 18

giovedì 22 febbraio ore 19.30 venerdì 23 febbraio ore 20.30 sabato 24 febbraio ore 18

Nature animals would be presented proudly by gunmen but today, in the era of protected species, the deceased arrivals die from natural causes. One exception to this is a crane, or gru, retrieved after being shot by a poacher in Lido dei Pini south of Rome in 2010, while it was migrating to north Africa. Poignantly, the bullet used to bring down this magnificent bird is displayed at its feet.

Cignini is an authority on the city’s starlings and was pivotal in the recent campaign to move the birds away from the centre, where their vast quantities of oily guano were causing havoc for pedestrians and motorists.

The technique adopted was an artificial distress call which saw the birds flock to the sprawling Verano cemetery whose residents are incapable of complaints. As for the reason behind the birds’ aerial ballets over the capital, Cignini says: “Look closer the next time: one of the thousands of silhouettes will be much larger than the others – an attacking hawk – which picks off the most vulnerable birds unable to keep the pace.”

In Rome this larger dot among the starlings could be a peregrine falcon whose Italian population was almost wiped out in the 1970s thanks to DDT, a pesticide banned in Italy in 1978. The poison caused eggshell thinning, resulting in the mother peregrines breaking the eggs in their nests. However A fox acquires a “second life” at Rome’s Zoology Museum.

after decades of despair comes good news.

A pair of peregrines, Aria and Vento, has been breeding for years on the roof of Rome’s Sapienza University in the S. Lorenzo district, and visitors to the exhibition can monitor the birds via a webcam. Today there are up to 20 nesting couples in Rome, some of them living among the ruins at the Baths of Caracalla.

Perhaps the most notorious bird to make its home in the Eternal City is the herring gull, present since 1971 when a female bird, found injured on the Tuscan island of Giannutri, was entrusted to Fulco Pratesi, founder of the Italian branch of the World Wildlife Fund. Pratesi nursed the bird back to health at the Bioparco, located next to the zoology museum. One thing led to another and today Rome’s gulls number an estimated 10,000.

For the first few decades the gulls kept themselves to themselves, roosting on the highest Roman rooftops and flocking by day to the city’s Malagrotta rubbish dump, until its closure in 2013. The birds have since discovered the easy pickings on the capital’s streets where they maintain an increasingly audacious presence.

Other relative newcomers include the bright green parakeets which occupy Rome’s leafy areas following their release from captivity in the 1970s and 1980s, in areas such as Caffarella. The city has two distinct species: the rose-ringed parakeet, a tropical AfroAsian bird with red beak that takes over the tree-hole homes of Rome’s woodpeckers, and the monk parakeet, a less flashy and more discreet South American variety that builds communal wicker-like nests.

Mysterious but rarely seen, the city’s five owl species provide us with a vital rodent-control service. All five specimens are on display including the ethereal barn owl which – if you are lucky enough – you might glimpse swooping under the moon at Villa Pamphilj.

Diverso per natura runs until 31 March at Museo Civico di Zoologia di Roma, Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 18 (Villa Borghese), tel. 0667109270, www.museodizoologia.it.

Tues-Sun 09.00-19.00.

7 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

History

TRAJAN’S WORLD ROME REMEMBERS EMPEROR TRAJAN ON THE 1,900TH ANNIVERSARY OF HIS DEATH WITH A MULTIMEDIA EXHIBITION AT TRAJAN’S MARKETS

Martin Bennett

T

o begin at the end. Passing the black curtain of the gold portal that forms the entrance of the exhibition Traiano. Costruire l’Impero, creare l’Europa at Trajan’s Markets, you find yourself inside the facsimile of Trajan’s tomb, the real version being some 100 m away in the pedestal of Trajan’s Column.

The late emperor (53-117 AD) addresses you from the hereafter, courtesy of a video screened overhead. He gives a brief life history: how, past 40, he was a general and legate in lower Germany when he received news of the death of Emperor Nerva, his adopted father, and was summoned to Rome to succeed.

He lists a lifetime of firsts – first emperor to be born outside Rome (he was born in Spain), first to cross the Danube, and so on, culminating in the first emperor to have extended the empire to its utmost limit before or afterwards. Reaching Babylon he’d offer sacrifices in the house where Alexander had died. “Were I still young, I would’ve crossed to India also,” Trajan, via Latin historian Dion Cassius, quotes himself. Only for time and death to catch up with him while out on campaign. His second (Parthian) triumph he would attend posthumously after dying of a stroke; his ashes, having been brought from the east, were duly deposited under his column.

8 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Trajan bust from the Capitoline Museums. ©Roma, Sovrintendenza Capitolina ai Beni Culturali.

The second room of the exhibition or, one might say, the show (its curators use the word “pop”) echoes with cheers of the crowd mingling with a non-stop shower of roses; the model of the triumphal procession stretching across the floor almost comes alive. A written commentary notes the three qualifications for a triumph decreed by the senate: to have killed in battle 5,000 enemies, to have brought the soldiers safely home, to have extended the

History imperial frontiers. Bringing home adulation’s limits, in the room’s corner is Constantine’s marble head, once in the imperial portrait gallery of Trajan’s Forum. Archaeologists found it blocking a public sewer. One theory goes that, following a revolt in 326 AD, insurgents added insult to injury by using it as a cleaning device, a sort of upmarket, outsize pumice stone.

The next section stars a bronze mask on loan from Holland’s Valkhof Museum in Nijmegen, once the site of a Roman army camp, the head having been dredged up from a nearby river.

Here’s someone, it suggests across millennia, not to mess with. Every intrepid, hard-won wrinkle is powerfully intact. The sidewall video meanwhile elaborates imperial dresscode: purples, gold, magenta, a reminder that the trans-European selection of busts in the photographs to the left would have once been coloured too.

But glory costs. Farther on are four funeral stones of soldiers or officials who died during Trajan’s campaigns (Dacian, Syrian, Parthian). Trajan is present only in part. A massive fragment of heroic jaw and chin, his sculpted head stops above the upper lip.

Next door is a model of Tropaeum Traiani (in what is now Romania), the Roman world’s largest triumphal monument, celebrating the emperor’s subjugation of Dacia. Above us is a wheeling video of a bleak Romanian Trajan’s Column.

The 1977 reconstruction of Tropaeum Traiani.

landscape stretching far away as muffled drumbeats and a searing wind complete the effect of the Dacian campaign. Triumph, and, as evinced by the sculpted Dacian captives on the monument’s roof, perhaps a way of rubbing the faces of the vanquished in the scale of their defeat.

Across the museum atrium, lest victory be forgotten, appear more Dacians. The four marble figures with their Dacian headwear once decorated the Basilica Ulpia’s façade, the building which Dacian slave-labour made possible in the first place. Not to mention a Roman war chest of 250,000 kg of gold and twice that in silver, a motive for the five-year campaign. From the presently-closed Museo di Civiltà Romana in Rome’s EUR district come plaster casts of six of the 155 scenes of Trajan’s hill-high column. Here’s a citadel topped with the skewered heads of Roman legionaries.

Here soldiers ford a river and Trajan delivers an adlocutio on the far bank. Primitive clubs versus honed steel, another cast shows Dacians getting the worst of it; actually their 200,000 army deployed cavalry, archers and siege weaponry thanks to Roman engineers who had defected to the Dacian camp under former Emperor Domitian. Then we see 9 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

History Dacians in their besieged capital: “Give me freedom or give me death.” Some are being handed poison by their leader. Last up is Dacian king Decalabus, slitting his throat beneath a tree with scythe-like dagger or falx.

The same newsreel does not show Trajan sending the head of Decalabus to the senate back to Rome as proof of victory.

Greeted by a giant female head from Trajan’s Forum, one reaches a section dedicated to Trajan’s Women. Plotina, wife of Trajan and first lady, would accompany him on campaigns and later, in death, share his funeral chamber.

Her image also shared the same coins, here deified as Vesta, the hearth goddess while on the other side presides Caesar Augustus Germanicus Dacius consul VI Pater Patriae, a.k.a. Trajan. Busts of sister Marciana and niece Matidia included, the fashion links are there not only in the ornate hairstyles, but even more spectacularly in a Bulgari necklace.

20th century moda incorporates three ancient coins of gold (aurus), silver (denarius) and bronze (quadrans) in its platinum. Arguably though, the star here, and a good mentor for female empowerment in the first century AD, is Matidia Minore, Matidia’s daughter: high tech equips her illuminated marble head with a voice narrating in both Italian and slightly unrealistic American-English a gamut of business and charity activities.

Roman beheads Dacian. Detail of frieze on Trajan’s Column.

elaborated upon through to mediaeval and Renaissance times. There is Trajan, optimus princeps, simply the best, who, to cite Pliny the Younger: “ordered us [Romans] to be happy, and so we will be.” On Gregory the Great’s prayerful intercession, there’s Trajan elevated from hell to paradiso where Dante places him next to King David as an archetype of the just ruler. 1,900 years after his death, in the catalogue there’s Trajan recast as “Constructor of Empire, Creator of Europe”. Any number of great works, not just completed against the odds but which have lasted millennia.

In the section Trajan at home, archaeology meets speleology. A partly drone-filmed video takes you down, down, down a manhole on the Aventine hill to what was probably Trajan’s Domus before he became emperor. For his private imperial villa he chose Arcinazzo Romano, about 50 km east of Rome. In a veering video taken from a helicopter, a section of its palatial brickwork is just visible among luxuriant foliage and a tumbling waterfall. While the interior decoration of the Aventine Domus is almost miraculously unchanged, that of the imperial villa is a jigsaw of countless pieces which the archaeologists are still in the throes of reassembling.

Yet one can’t help feeling a pang for those unsung Dacian captives – 50,000 marched in chains to Rome, 10,000 dying in the Colosseum along with 11,000 animals in 123 days of celebratory “games”. Historian Edward Gibbon puts it rather more majestically. The same Trajan who in Dante stops his march to war to humbly honour a widow’s appeal for justice was also, cautions Gibbon, “ambitious for fame. As long as mankind shall continue to bestow more liberal applause on their destroyers than on their benefactors, the thirst for military glory will ever be a vice of the most exalted characters.” The film concludes, “Now it’s your turn to continue the story?”

A good question. This exhibition/show/ history lesson par excellence gives ample and fascinating food for thought.

One last treat remains. Venture down into Trajan Market’s piccolo emisfero, and a short film explores how Trajan’s reputation was

The exhibition runs until 16 September at Trajan’s Markets, Via IV Novembre 94, www. mercatiditraiano.it.

11 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Sport

SIX NATIONS RUGBY IN ROME PIER LUIGI BERNABÒ, HEAD OF INTERNATIONAL EVENTS AT ITALIAN RUGBY UNION, SPEAKS TO WANTED IN ROME

Marco Venturini and respected, around every match by the national squad and all the domestic matches. Sport in general needs to find serenity and equilibrium without suffering under the influence of economic considerations and the compulsive drive for wins just for winning. “Rugby for all” is a new project of the Italian Rugby Federation, designed to show the way: to give priority to rugby’s formative and social functions.

How does rugby stand in numerical terms of players and earnings in relation to the other main Italian sports?

How has the Italian rugby scene changed over the past 10 years, and how do you see its future?

The Six Nations has certainly played a part in raising public attention to our sport, especially since the home matches were transferred in 2012 from the Flaminio to the Olympic Stadium, in that superb setting of the Foro Italico Olympic park.

That led to a quantum leap in terms of participation and in perception of the Six Nations and rugby in general. It’s an event that has all the ingredients for a special day for our fans: a sporting show, fun and culture. I think in the future rugby will need to play the card of bolstering the atmosphere of festa and friendship, the main reasons it’s approved 12 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

The number of people playing rugby is growing, even though we’re feeling the lack of suitable grounds, in spite of the FIR’s efforts to support the clubs in this.

What should we look for in terms of teams and spectators for the upcoming Six Nations 2018?

What will be new?

There are expectations and hopes, as always, even though we’re aware of the merit of our adversaries, all of them at the top level of world ranking.

Conor O’Shea, our trainer, has brought enthusiasm and professionalism, and he’s promoted a lot of youngsters, which we hope will bear positive fruit as soon as possible. As far as spectators go, I think the Olympic Stadium will be full of fans again, and we’re already close to the sold out objective

Sport

for the England match. The “Fourth Half Rugby and Culture” is the connection that an important sporting event like this should have with culture and society, it’s one of the family jewels of our organisation that we’re going to put on show.

What are the next big matches for the national team in 2018?

Apart from the two Six Nations matches with England and Scotland, we’ll meet the All Blacks, Australia and Georgia in the November test matches. The first two are legends in world rugby, while Georgia is coming on well and it’ll be a chance to test their level against ours.

What’s happening with rugby in Rome? is it looking?

How

I’ll reply as someone with nostalgia for Roman rugby. Rome is an extraordinary city, it’s got

important traditions and above all it’s the city of the Six Nations. Summing up, it’s got the potential to be a queen of Italian rugby, maybe even internationally. There are lots of clubs in the area, and lots of expert and passionate managers who I think ought to have the ambition and courage to think on a large scale for a shared project, obviously without sacrificing each single club’s identity.

How is rugby doing in schools, and how is women’s rugby going?

The federation has been developing a schools project for years now with positive results which could even be exceptional if there were a chance to use a suitable stadium. Women’s rugby is continuing to grow both in Italy and abroad, and the female side is ever more a privileged target for the FIR.

13 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Sport

IV TEMPO RUGBY E CULTURA Ticket holders of the two Six Nations rugby matches scheduled at the Olympic Stadium will be entitled to free admission for two people to state and city museums during the weekends of the two games: England (4 Feb at 16.00) and Scotland (17 March at 13.30).

Titled IV Tempo Rugby e Cultura, the Rome museum initiative is the result of a long-term agreement between the Federazione Italiana Rugby (FIR) and Italy’s culture ministry, and this year sees the involvement of the city.

FIR president Alfredo Gavazzi describes the initiative as a “splendid opportunity” for rugby fans, particularly families, while culture minister Dario Franceschini says the Six Nations provides the chance to promote “the treasures of Italian art.”

The museums involved in IV Tempo Rugby e Cultura, whose title is a play on the “third half” so beloved of rugby fans, runs from Friday to Sunday on each of the two match-weekends: 2, 3 and 4 February and 16, 17 and 18 March. The participating museums, along with their addresses and opening times, are published below.

STATE MUSEUMS 1. Galleria Spada, Piazza Capo di Ferro 13 (08.3019.30) 2. Museo Nazionale degli Strumenti Musicali, Piazza S. Croce in Gerusalemme 9/A (09.00-19.00) 3. Museo Nazionale del Palazzo di Venezia, Via del Plebiscito 118 (08.30-19.30) 4. Museo Nazionale di Castel S. Angelo, Lungotevere Castello 50 (09.00-19.30) 5. Museo Nazionale Etrusco di Villa Giulia, Piazzale di Villa Giulia 9 (09.00-20.00) 6. Museo Nazionale dell’Alto Medioevo, Viale Lincoln 3 (08.00-19.00) 7. Museo Arti e Tradizioni popolari, Piazza G. Marconi 8. (08.00-19.00) 14 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

8. Museo Nazionale Preistorico Etnografico Luigi Pigorini, Piazza G. Marconi 14 (8.00-19.00) 9. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13 (08.30-19.00) 10. Palazzo Corsini, Via della Lungara 10 (08.3019.30) 11. Palazzo Massimo, Piazza dei Cinquecento 67 (09.00-19.45) 12. Palazzo Altemps, Piazza S. Apollinare 46 (09.00-19.45) 13. Crypta Balbi, Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31 (09.00-19.45) 14. Terme di Diocleziano, Via Enrico De Nicola 79 (09.00–19.45) CITY MUSEUMS 1. Musei Capitolini, Piazza del Campidoglio 1 (09.30-19.30) 2. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106 (09.3019.30) 3. Museo dei Fori Imperiali – Mercati di Traiano, Via Quattro Novembre (09.30-19.30) 4. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta (09.30-19.30) 5. Museo di Roma (Palazzo Braschi), Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10 (10.00-19.00) 6. Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24 (10.00-18.30) 7. MACRO, Via Nizza 138 (10.30-19.30) 8. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza di S. Egidio 1b (10.00-20.00) 9. Musei di Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70 (09.00-19.00) 10. Museo Civico di Zoologia, Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 18 (09.00-19.00) The 19th edition of the annual Six Nations rugby union championship, which is contested by England, France, Ireland, Italy, Scotland and Wales, kicks off on 3 February and finishes on 17 March. For full details of Six Nations rugby fixtures and league table see website, www.sixnationsrugby.com.

STUDY ABROAD OR EARN YOUR

BACHELOR’S DEGREE IN ROME, ITALY

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Via della Lungara, 233 00165 Rome, Italy +39 066819121

to do

Sun Mon Tue Wed 4

5

It’s time for the Six Nations championship! Head to Stadio Olimpico for the Italy vs England rugby match. www.sixnationsrugby.com.

11

12 Admire the work of street artist Alice Pasquini at her solo show The Unchanging World at Philobiblon Gallery. www.philobiblon.org

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

18

19

Take your kids to Luneur, Italy’s oldest amusement park. For children up to age 12. www.luneurpark.it.

For a fun ski day without the crowds head to Campo Felice resort near Rome. Receive a €4 discount on lift tickets with your WiR card. www.campofelice.it.

25 Explore the city in a new way and rent a scooter from Cooltra. Receive 30 per cent off the rental price with your WiR card.

6

7

13

14

Honour the official beginning of Carnevale with other revellers watching the parade from Piazza del Popolo to Piazza Navona.

Enjoy a romantic Valentine’s Day aperitivo with live piano music at Hotel Eden’s elegant La Libreria lounge on Via Ludovisi 49.

Get in the Carnevale spirit early by preparing some home made sugar-dusted castagnole. Try out our recipe on the Wanted in Rome website.

26

20

21

27

28

La Traviata directed by Sofia Coppola with costumes by Valentino at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. 10 per cent off tickets for WiR cardholders. www.operaroma.it.

Thu

1

Score some last minute tickets to see English indie rock band alt-J perform at Rome’s Palalottomatica. www.livenation.com

8 15

Fri

2

Delight in a showing of The Rivals presented by The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome – a production first performed at Covent Garden in 1775. www.romesavoyards.it.

Bring some friends to an Unplugged in Monti concert of English alt-rock group The Wave Pictures at Blackmarket. www.unpluggedinmonti.com.

3

Take advantage of the post-Christmas sales in clothes stores throughout Rome.

9

10

Explore the interactive exhibit Gravity at MAXXI. Special ticket reduction for WiR cardholders. www.maxxi.art.

The 15th annual Cioccolentino festival opens today. Take a day trip to the Umbrian city of Terni to celebrate all things chocolate. www.cioccolentino.com.

16

Go for an early evening stroll through the Giardino degli aranci to watch the sunset over Rome and be reminded of why you live here.

22

Sat

23

17 Catch up on this year's Oscarnominated films with a showing at cinema Nuovo Olimpia. WiR cardholders receive a €2 discount on tickets.

24 Last chance to catch the popular Enjoy exhibit at Chiostro del Bramante.

Special discount on tickets for WiR card-holders. See website www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Feb 2018

Sport Gabrielle Bolzoni

SKIING NEAR ROME

The mountains in central Italy offer skiers in Rome a closer alternative to the Alps

T

here are many skiing resorts within an easy drive of Rome along the Apennines in Lazio and Abruzzo. Before setting off, check all resort websites for avalanche warnings and snow conditions.

Campocatino

This relatively small ski resort is one of the oldest in the Apennines and is located in the province of Frosinone, about 100 km southeast of Rome. It has 12 km of slopes, located in a karst valley at 1,800 m. It has a chairlift and three ski lifts. The Canalino and the Vermicano slopes are connected and form a good slope of 1,500 m. www.campocatino.eu.

Campo di Giove

Campo di Giove is on the western slope of the Majella natural park in Abruzzo, about 170 km from Rome. A chair lift and a ski lift take skiers up to about 1,800 m.

Two bars / restaurants are located along the way. The numerous slopes are of different levels: the Serra Campanile is easy and suitable for kids, the Le Capre, Pareti Rosse and Delle Signore are of medium difficulty, while the Porrara is one of the most fascinating and challenging black runs in the Apennines. There are two school camps, served by conveyor lifts, where children are introduced to skiing and snowboarding. There is also a snow park, a snow playground for young skiers called Kinder Park Giovilandia, and a synthetic ice skating rink open throughout the year. www.comunecampodigiove.it.

Campo Felice

Campo Felice is in the central Apennines of Abruzzo, located within the Sirente-Velino regional natural park, about 113 km from Rome. This ski resort is part of the Tre Nevi area, along with Ovindoli and Campo Imperatore, and is one of the favourite destinations for Romans. It offers 30 km of Alpine skiing of various levels, served by about 10 chair-lifts and several drag lifts for children, which can carry up to 18,000 skiers per hour and guarantee quick access to the slopes. A modern snowmaking system with 250 artificial snow cannons cover over 16 kms. A must for snowboarders is the Swup Snowpark with its jumps and breathtaking passages. www.campofelice.it.

18 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Campo Imperatore

Campo Imperatore was the first ski resort to be developed in the Apennines. It is on the Gran Sasso mountain about 120 km from Rome and at 2,200 m is one of the highest in Italy. A cableway takes skiers from Fonte Cerreto to Campo Imperatore and two chair lifts take them to five panoramic slopes. It offers 15 km of Alpine skiing and 60 km of Nordic skiing. There is also a snow park with half-pipe and boarder cross slopes for snowboarders. www.ilgransasso.it.

Campo Staffi

Campo Staffi is located in Filettino, 100 km from Rome.

Its facilities include two chair lifts, three ski lifts and one manovia, which take skiers to 1,500-2,000 m. A 10-km long path is available for lovers of cross-country skiing.

A shuttle service connects Filettino to the nearby villages. www.campostaffi.it.

Monte Livata

The Alpine skiing areas of Monte Livata, located about 75 km east of Rome, include Campo Minio and Monna dell’Orso. The slopes, which run from Fossa dell’Acero to Campo dell’Osso, are famous for cross-country skiing and are particularly suitable for families. Three drag lifts take skiers to the top of the mountain, from where they can choose an Alpine skiing descent or a snowboarding and tubing track. The traditional cross-skiing circuit goes from Campo dell’Osso to Campaegli. www.livata.com.

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Ovindoli

Ovindoli is located between Rome and L’Aquila in Abruzzo, about 130 km from the capital in the Sirente-Velino regional natural park.

Some of the longest cross-country skiing slopes in central Italy are in the Altopiano delle Rocche which connects Ovindoli with Rocca di Mezzo. The Magnola mountain (1,400-2,220 m), offers 30 km of Alpine skiing, served by modern and efficient lifts. The slopes in the Tre Nevi ski area are of all levels and there are some challenging black runs. There is the Magnola upper park (1,980 m) as well as the lower park, located along the Dolce Vita slope (1,650 m). Ovindoli also has a very efficient snowmaking system, which perfect artificial snow even when natural snow is lacking. www.ovindolimagnola.it.

Pescasseroli

Located in the heart of the Abruzzo national park about 160 km from Rome, this resort offers 20-km of skiing, divided in 14 slopes for all abilities, including two difficult black runs, six red or intermediate slopes and six blue or easy ones for beginners. The 100-km long slope of Alto Sangro crosses the municipalities of Pescasseroli, Pescocostanzo, Aremogna, Pizzalto and Monte Pratello. The resort has three chair lifts and two ski lifts. www.sciareapescasseroli.it.

Roccaraso

Roccaraso, which is about equidistant from Rome and Naples, is one of the major skiing resorts in the Abruzzo. It is the heart of the largest ski area in central Italy, the Alto Sangro area, which includes 160 km of slopes and 36 lifts. Founded in 1910, Roccaraso’s skiing resort still hosts prestigious international competitions. Its numerous slopes include some that are suitable for children. www.roccaraso.net.

Terminillo

This limestone mountain (2,215 m) is one of the few resorts north of Rome, close to Rieti and about 100 km from the capital. Since it was made fashionable by Mussolini in the 1930s it has been a tourist destination for passionate skiers, and it is still one of the favourite winter resorts for Rome’s skiers. It has one cable car, three chair lifts and a conveyor belt, as well as over 40 km of steep slopes for Alpine skiing and 20 km of perfectly beaten Nordic skiing slopes, which are also illuminated at night.

Its variegated flora and fauna make it an ideal place for excursions, nature trails and other sporting activities, such as hiking and mountain races. It has a high-altitude riding school with horse-drawn sleds, and the possibility to rent powerful quads, which offer adventurous excursions on the snowy paths. www.monteterminillo.net.

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19 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry.

For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel.

0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

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Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Galle

MAXXI

Borghese Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazz ni.org Nuov the P group

MAC

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Castel S. Angelo Museum

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Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

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Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Italy's museum of oriental art, formerly located on Via Merulana, is currently closed pending its reopening at Museo Nazionale Preistorico Etnografico Luigi Pigorini di Roma, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture,

21 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

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coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also Mattatoio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed. www.museomacro.org.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-21.00.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Giorgio De Chirico House Museum

Museo Barracco

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

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22 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.

Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org.

Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours available on advance booking.

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ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists.

Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.

0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits.

Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

24 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists.

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch

This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria PIOMONTI

Founded by gallerist Pio Monti, this gallery has promoted the work of major contemporary Italian artists since 1969. Piazza Mattei 18, tel. 0668210744, www.piomonti.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

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Galleria Il Segno

Montoro 12

Galleria Mucciaccia

Nomas Foundation

Galleria Valentina Moncada

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

This gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel.

063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel.

0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea

Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www.m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.

0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Philobiblon Gallery

The Rome branch of this international franchise hosts exhibitions in addition to dealing in antique books. Via Antonio Bertoloni 45, tel. 0645555970, www.philobiblon.org.

Pian de Giullari

This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions.

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Plus Arte Puls

La Nuova Pesa

RvB ARTS

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900

This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel.

3482833034.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

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EXHIBITIONS

27 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

EXHIBITIONS LUIS FELIPE ORTEGA: A HORIZON FALLS, A SHADOW 8 Feb-22 March

MACRO Testaccio hosts the first solo exhibition in Italy

by Mexican artist Luis Felipe Ortega, who represented his country at the Venice Biennale in 2015. The theme of the gaze, or the “exercise of observation” as Ortega describes it, is central to the multimedia artist’s work which requires careful, prolonged viewing. The exhibition includes video, photography, installation and drawings. MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, www. museomacro.org.

between these elements and the days of the week. MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Georges de canino LA NOTTE È SCURA 23 Jan-28 Feb

With the subheading Collage contro il terrore 1978-1983, this exhibition of works by Georges de Canino marks the 80th anniversary of Italy’s racial laws, promulgated by the fascist regime to enforce racial discrimination, mainly against Italy’s Jews.

Based in Rome since the early 1970s, de Canino is known for his works which reject fascism.

The exhibition comprises some 40 large-scale collages of photographs and documents from original fascist propaganda magazines. Casa della Memoria e della Storia, Via S. Francesco di Sales 5, Trastevere, tel. 060608.

VEXILLUM TRANSPARENT 20 Jan-25 Feb

Galleria Varsi presents a solo show by Daniel Muñoz - SAN, a Spanish street artist known for his participatory public art projects. His exhibition at Varsi features a series of new paintings, drawings, silkscreens and a sitespecific installation. The works are inspired by themes such as national borders, movement of people, identity and the consequences of tourism. Galleria Varsi, Via di Grotta Pinta 38, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Georges de Canino exhibition at Casa della Memoria e della Storia.

MARGARETH DORIGATTI: DEITIES, COLOURS, DAYS 25 Jan-10 March

Margareth Dorigatti’s most recent series of paintings is themed around the planets, divinities and myths, with their related metals and colours, and the relationship 28 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

DIMENSIONE FRAGILE 20 Jan-24 Feb

Exhibition involving 200 works by artists who in various ways and for various reasons have created fragile works at some point in their career. The show is inspired by the book Elogio della Fragilità (Praise of Fragility) by Roberto Gramiccia. Exhibiting artists include Jacopo Benci, Georgina Spengler and Silvia

Dimensione Fragile at Biblioteca Vallicelliana. Writ in water by Silvia Stucky.

Stucky. Biblioteca Vallicelliana, Piazza della Chiesa Nuova 18.

ALICE PASQUINI: THE UNCHANGING WORLD 20 Jan-16 Feb

Celebrated street artist Alice Pasquini returns after three years to exhibit in her native city with a solo show at Philobiblon Gallery. The theme of the new work on display is familiar territory for Pasquini: a nostalgic nod to the halcyon days of our youth while pausing to reflect on how our early experiences shape our psyche. Philobiblon Gallery, Via Antonio Bertoloni 45, www. philobiblon.org.

PINK FLOYD: THEIR MORTAL REMAINS 19 Jan-1 july

The first international retrospective dedicated to the influential and experimental music group Pink Floyd comes to MACRO following its showing at London’s V&A. Billed as a spectacular audiovisual journey, the show chronicles five

decades of Pink Floyd’s music, design and staging, from the band’s beginnings in the 1960s to the present day. The exhibition runs in chronological order, accompanied by the music and voices of the group’s past and present members. The show’s highlight is the Performance Zone featuring a 2005 performance of Comfortably Numb and including footage from he band’s legendary performance in Pompeii in 1971.

MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www. museomacro.org.

11 - LA PORTA ALCHEMICA 11 Jan-11 Feb

Roman artist Franco Losvizzero shows 11 works themed around the Porta Alchemica, or alchemical door, a 17th-century monument at Villa Palombara near Piazza Vittorio. Central to this magical theme is an image of a nude woman, painted in white and

wearing a rabbit mask, posing at the Palombara portal into another world.

Galleria PIOMONTI, Piazza Mattei 18, tel. 0668210744, www.piomonti.com.

DIVERSO PER NATURA 22 Dec-31 March

Rome’s Museum of Zoology hosts an exhibition showcasing the biodiversity of the capital and its hinterland, thanks to the museum’s latest studies. The city’s parks and ancient ruins provide a habitat for dozens of species of wild animals and birds, whose urbanisation is happening before our eyes. From turtles to falcons, foxes to parakeets, this exhibition tells the story of how these creatures have adapted to a city environment, how they live, how they interact with humans and how they die. See article page 4. Museo Civico di Zoologia di Roma, Via Ulisse Aldrovandi 18, www.museodizoologia.it.

EGIZI ETRUSCHI 21 Dec-30 June

Centrale Montemartini inaugurates its new temporary exhibition space with Egizi Etruschi. Da Eugene Berman allo Scarabeo dorato, highlighting two great civilisations of the Mediterranean: the Etruscans and the Egyptians.

The show features artefacts from the two ancient cultures, including recent Etruscan finds from Vulci – on loan from numerous institutions – alongside Egyptian treasures from the collection of Eugene Berman, the Russian-born American set designer who lived in Rome for almost two decades until his death in 1972. Centrale Montemartini, Via Ostiense 106, www.centralemontemartini.org.

PHOTO ARK: MERAVIGLIE DEL MONDO ANIMALE 8 Dec-22 April Franco Losvizzero exhibition at Galleria Pio Monti. La Porta Alchemica.

For the last 12 years National Geographic photographer Joel Sartore has travelled to zoos all over the world, photographing

7,400 species held in captivity.

Sartore intends to photograph the estimated 12,000 species living in the world’s zoos, as part of the Photo Ark project which he expects will take him another decade. This exhibition features highlights from Sartore’s archive, including critically endangered animals he has photographed “before it is too late.” Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com.

STILL SHOWING VOGLIA D’ITALIA 7 Dec-4 March

With the subheading Il collezionismo internazionale nella Roma del Vittoriano, this exhibition comprises the vast collection of paintings and sculptures assembled by American husband and wife George Washington Wurts and Henrietta Tower, who restored Rome’s Villa Sciarra in the early 20th century. Their art collection was subsequently donated to the Italian state and has been housed ever since – mainly in storage – at Palazzo Venezia. The exhibition showcases the most significant works from the collection, many of which were cleaned specially and are on public display for the first time. Highlights include S. Lorenzo by Donatello, Ritratto di giovinetto by Luca Della Robbia, and Ritratto di Federico e Irene Perkins by Nicola D’Asnasch.

Palazzo Venezia, Via Del Plebiscito 118, www.museopalazzovenezia. beniculturali.it.

CONVERSATION PIECE | PART IV 16 Dec-18 March

Under the title Giant steps are what you take, the Fondazione Memmo presents Conversation Piece | Part IV, the latest installment in its cycle of exhibitions dedicated to Italian and foreign artists, many of whom are working temporarily 29 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

reflection on certain specific aspects of the medium of painting.” The show takes its cue from Anne Tyler’s 1977 short story Average Waves in Unprotected Waters, recalling the idea of an irregular surface permeated by irrepressible, continuous movement. z2o Sara Zanin Gallery – Via della Vetrina 21, tel.

0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

Voglia d’Italia at Palazzo Venezia. Portrait of Federico and Irene Perkins by Nicola D’Asnasch. at Rome’s cultural academies.

The exhibiting artists are Yto Barrada (American Academy), Eric Baudelaire (French Academy), Rossella Biscotti, Jörg Herold and Christoph Keller (German Academy) and Jakub Woynarowski.

Fondazione Memmo, Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

IL TESORO DI ANTICHITÀ 7 Dec-22 April

An exhibition at the Capitoline Museums pays tribute to German art historian and archaeologist Johann Joachim Winckelmann, considered the founder of modern archaeology, on the 300th anniversary of his birth.

With 124 works and multimedia installations, the exhibition highlights the establishment of the Capitoline Museums in 1733

by Pope Clement XII as the first public museum in Europe. It also celebrates the groundbreaking classical studies of Winckelmann during his Roman years when he served as the prefect of antiquities and scriptor at the Vatican in the mid-18th century. Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, www.museicapitolini.org.

GRAVITY: IMAGING THE UNIVERSE AFTER EINSTEIN 2 Dec-29 April

MAXXI honours the scientific legacy of Albert Einstein with 30 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

an exhibition exploring the “interconnected key concepts of space-time, crises, confines.” The show coincides with the centenary of Einstein’s publication of a ground-breaking article which challenged existing models of the cosmos and the universe, ultimately revolutionising modern-day concepts of time and space. The exhibition examines the connections between art and science, paying tribute to Einstein through installations by international artists. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www.maxxi.art.

ANDREAS GURSKY: BANGKOK 14 Dec-3 March

The Gagosian Gallery marks its tenth anniversary in Rome with an exhibition of photographs by German artist Andreas Gursky, on view for the first time in Italy. The show comprises works from the Bangkok series (2011), centred on the Thai capital’s fast-flowing Chao Phraya river, and the monumental Ocean VI (2010), for which he used highdefinition satellite photographs to generate his own interpretations of sea and land. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.

0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

MOTO ONDOSO STABILE 3 Dec-17 Feb

A group exhibition at z2o Sara Zanin Gallery offers a “fresh

TRAIANO: COSTRUIRE L’IMPERO, CREARE L’EUROPA 29 Nov–16 Sept

Major show dedicated to Emperor Trajan on the 1,900th anniversary of his death. In addition to outlining his public and private persona, the exhibition puts a particular emphasis on Trajan’s legacy as a “360° builder”, not just of infrastructure but also his innovative economic policies and programme of architectural works.

On display are archaeological artefacts from museums in Rome and around the world, including statues, portraits and architectural decorations, alongside multimedia and interactive installations. See article page 8. Mercati Traianei, Via Quattro Novembre 94, www. mercatiditraiano.it.

ARTISTI ALL’OPERA 17 Nov-11 March

Palazzo Braschi explores the relationship between Rome’s opera house and artists of international renown, from 1881 to today. The artists who have worked with Teatro dell’Opera include Pablo Picasso, as well as major Italian painters Renato Guttuso and Giorgio De Chirico, up to present-day designers and directors such as Valentino, Sofia Coppolla and William Kentridge.

The show comprises the artists’ set designs, costumes, paintings, sketches and maquettes. It also shows archive film footage, with a different opera aria in each room.

Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10 (Piazza Navona), tel.

060608, www.museodiroma.it.

Leica cameras in the evolution of modern photography. The show comprises more than 350 original prints by some of the world’s most celebrated photographers along with vintage posters and archive documents from the 1920s onwards. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www.ilvittoriano.com.

HOME BEIRUT: SOUNDING THE NEIGHBORS 15 Nov-20 May

Giuseppe Arcimboldo exhibition at Palazzo Barberini. L’acqua.

FILIPPO LIPPI 17 Nov-18 Feb

With the title Altro Rinascimento: Il giovane Filippo Lippi e la Madonna di Tarquinia, this exhibition celebrates the centenary of the rediscovery of Our Lady of Tarquinia, painted by the young Filippo Lippi in 1437. The work was considered fundamental in the career of the Florentine artist as it documented a break-away from the stiff style of Masaccio and was influenced by the novelties introduced by Donatello during the third decade of the 15th century. Lippi’s masterpiece is displayed among several of his other paintings from the same era, alongside works by Masaccio and Donatello. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www. barberinicorsini.org.

I GRANDI MAESTRI: 100 ANNI DI FOTOGRAFIA LEICA 16 Nov-18 Feb

The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition highlighting the important role of

This exhibition examines Beirut from the perspective of creative resistance, artistic innovation and hope, through more than 100 works by artists, architects, filmmakers, musicians, dancers, researchers and activists. The exhibition also highlights the diverse ways in which conflict, memory and the future are expressed in the work of these 36 artists. Part of the MAXXI series Interactions across the Mediterranean, which explores the relationship between Europe and the Middle East. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www. maxxi.art.

MONET 19 OCT-3 JUNE

The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition dedicated to Monet, the father of Impressionism. The show comprises around 60 works from the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, including landscapes, portraits and his celebrated garden series of water lilies.

Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www. ilvittoriano.com.

GIUSEPPE ARCIMBOLDO 19 Oct-11 Feb

Palazzo Barberini presents an exhibition of around 20 works

by Giuseppe Arcimboldo (15261593), an Italian painter best known for creating imaginative

portrait heads made entirely of objects such as fruits, vegetables, flowers, fish and books. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www. barberinicorsini.org.

FRANCESCO TROMBADORI: L’ESSENZIALE VERITÀ DELLE COSE 13 Oct-11 Feb

Rome’s municipal modern art gallery on Via Francesco Crispi 24 examines the close connection between the Sicilian-born painter Francesco Trombadori (18861961) and his adopted Rome. The 60 paintings on display, created between 1915 and 1961, span the career of Trombadori who was a prominent figure in the Scuola Romana art movement. The show also includes drawings, catalogues and newspaper articles from the artist’s archives, housed in his former studio at Villa StrohlFern. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

ENJOY: L’ARTE INCONTRA IL DIVERTIMENTO 23 Sept-25 Feb

With the subtitle Art Meets Amusement, this immersive exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante features modern art works and site-specific installations by some of the world’s “most prominent and provocative protagonists of contemporary art”.

Highlights of the show include Matt Collishaw’s mesmerising zootrope, the neverending labyrinth of Leandro Erlich’s mirrors and the spectacular illusory effects of TeamLab’s light works. Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace (Piazza Navona area), tel. 06916508451, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

31 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Betty Woodman (centre) alongside British artist Tracey Emin (left) and gallerist Lorcan O’Neill. Image courtesy Galleria Lorcan O’Neill.

ART NEWS BETTY WOODMAN DIES

The celebrated American artist Betty Woodman, who for more than four decades lived between the Tuscan village of Antella and the US, died in New York on 2 January aged 87. Woodman used clay as her primary medium, combining lacquered ceramic and painted canvas to create unique three-dimensional works whose loose motifs and vivid colours contain echoes of Matisse. In 2006 she was honoured with a retrospective at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, its first for a living female artist. She was the mother of Francesca Woodman, the precocious young photographer who studied art in Rome in the late 1970s before her suicide aged 22 in 1981.

It was around the time of her daughter’s death that Woodman’s pottery moved from being functional to purely abstract, culminating in the style with which she became famous. In 2015 the Museo di Marino Marini in Florence held a retrospective dedicated to her work, while Woodman’s final show, comprising sculpture and specially created works on paper, was held at Rome’s Galleria Lorcan O’Neill last November.

MAJOR CHANGES FOR ROME’S MACRO

Giorgio De Finis, the “director-squatter” of Rome’s Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz (MAAM) street art museum, has been appointed artistic director of a new project at the city’s MACRO contemporary art museum on Via Nizza. De Finis will be in charge of an experimental project called Asilo (Italian for refuge or sanctuary), designed to give the latest “restart” to the museum which has been without a director since Federica Pirani’s contract expired on 30 June 2016. The nomination of De Finis by his old schoolfriend Luca Bergamo, the city’s deputy mayor and culture councillor, was announced at a hastily-convened press conference at the Campidoglio on 21 December. Bergamo clarified

that De Finis will not be the new director of MACRO – a role which would normally require a public tender process – but rather the curator of the new project. The more negative reports in Rome’s media suggest that this was a loophole to allow De Finis to become the “de facto director” of MACRO Nizza whose sole activity during the tenure of De Finis will be the Asilo project. From October 2018 until the end of 2019, MACRO Nizza will not host any temporary exhibitions and will be open free to the public, thanks to an investment of €800,000 from the city. Over the course of these 15 months, Asilo will offer a daily programme of art events involving Italian and international contemporary artists.

Designed to give contemporary artists space to work, perform and interact with the public, the project begins at MACRO Nizza following the conclusion of the newly-opened Pink Floyd exhibition, whose choice of venue has already raised eyebrows in Rome’s art world. Questions have also surfaced in the media about the suitability of De Finis for his new role; until now his only relevant experience has been curating MAAM in the outskirts of Rome. Since 2012 this former cured meat factory on Via Prenestina acts as an informal street art museum in addition to being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. As part of the new shake-up of the MACRO network, MACRO Testaccio has assumed the name “Mattatoio” in reference to the building’s former role as a slaughterhouse. The newly-christened Mattatoio will not be involved in the Asilo project, instead it is destined to play a greater “performative” role in the city’s art programming. In addition, both MACRO museums have come under the management of Azienda Speciale Palaexpo, a city-controlled body which manages Rome’s Palazzo delle Esposizioni and Casa del Jazz. MACRO Nizza also has a new website address, www.museomacro.it, while MACRO Testaccio remains www.museomacro.org.

33 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Giorgio De Finis will oversee the Asilo project at MACRO.

€5 PASS FOR ROME’S CITY MUSEUMS

Rome is set to introduce a new museum pass that will entitle the capital’s residents to unlimited access to city museums for 12 months. The €5 Mic card is reserved exclusively for people who are resident in Rome – not tourists – and is expected to be launched this spring. Participating museums include the Ara Pacis, Capitoline Museums, Trajan’s Markets, Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Centrale Montemartini and Villa Torlonia. The initiative has been described by the city’s mayor Virginia Raggi as a “great opportunity for those who live in Rome.” For details see city website, www.comune.roma.it.

over the decades, including Giorgio de Chirico, Mario Schifano and Piero Dorazio. The main store on Via del Gesù has been fronted since the 1960s by Mimmo Mancini, the master colour expert who has advised artists from Cy Twombly and Balthus to Jim Dine and Enzo Cucchi, whose work featured on a Wanted in Rome magazine cover in 2011. For more details see website, www.poggi1825.it.

Andy Devane Andrea Gandini sculpture at the Catacombs of S. Sebastiano.

GANDINI SCULPTURE AT CATACOMBS OF S. SEBASTIANO

Andrea Gandini, the 20-year-old Roman sculptor of tree trunks, has just completed one of his most successful works to date at the Catacombs of S. Sebastiano. Gandini’s work features S. Francesco alongside S. Sebastiano, complete with the arrows used traditionally in his depiction, carved into a fourmetre high dead tree trunk above the catacombs in which the martyr Sebastiano is buried. Inaugurated on 20 January, the work was commissioned by the Franciscan convent which manages the catacombs.

Gandini, whose earliest works were documented

by Wanted in Rome two years ago, has moved from sculpting dead tree trunks on Roman streets to important commissions around Italy.

POGGI OPENS NEW ART SHOP IN ROME

The historic Roman art shop Poggi has opened a third store, on Via di Ripetta 23/24, in addition to its existing outlets on Via del Gesù near the Pantheon, and Via Cardinale Merry De Val in Trastevere. Founded in 1825, Poggi has served numerous important artists 35 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Marta Argerich and Mischa Maisky perform with Janine Jansen at S. Cecilia.

Mazzoletti. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

KHATIA BUNIATISHVILI 15 Feb

Piano soloist Khatia Buniatishvili plays music by Brahms, Tchaikovsky and Liszt. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

CLASSICAL ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA

SOL GABETTA 1 March

Cellist Sol Gabetta returns to the Filarmonica with pianist Bertrand Chamayou to play music

by Schumann, Brahms and Shostakovich. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana. org.

PROSPETTIVA DEBUSSY 21 Jan-22 April

Six concerts of Debussy’s chamber music in conjunction with the Accademia S. Cecilia marks the centenary of the composer’s death in March 1918.

In February there are three concerts in the series, on 4 Feb, on 18 Feb and on 25 Feb. The February programme includes sonatas, Premiere Rapsodie for solo clarinet, a trio for violin, cello and piano, Prelude 1, the first of 24 preludes written by Debussy, and the extended solo for piano D’isle joyeuse. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

CONCERTO DE’ CAVALIERI 8 Feb

This ensemble that specialises in baroque music plays work by Vivaldi, Torelli, Corelli and Handel, conducted by Marcello Di Lisa and with trombone soloist Andrea Di Mario. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ASSOLI III 9 Feb and 28 Feb

This is the first in the third series of Assoli concerts to encourage young soloists of the Imago Sonora, the Filarmonica’s resident contemporary music ensemble. There are six concerts which include some contemporary compositions being played for the first time, some for the first time in Rome and some classical music. The soloist on 9 Feb is Samuele Telari on the accordion, and on 28 Feb it is Bianca Fiorito on the flute. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www. filarmonicaromana.org.

JAZZ AND ITS INSTRUMENTS 11 Feb

The saxophone is the focus of the second concert in this jazz series, with music from Coleman Hawkins to John Coltrane played by Maurizio Giammarco. The series is introduced by jazz critic and writer Adriano 36 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA DANIELE GATTI 1-3 Feb

Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Schumman’s 2nd and 4th symphonies as well as his Nachtlied. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

LOUIS LORTIE 5 Feb

French Canadian pianist Louis Lortie plays Chopin’s Études. Chopin composed three sets of Études for the piano. The composer’s studies for the piano, 27 in all, were technically audacious for the time and were the first to become a part of the concert repertoire.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

LISA BATIASHVILI 8-10 Feb

Violinist Lisa Batiashvili, who is the artist in residence at S. Cecilia this season, plays Prokofiev’s concerto for violin no 2 with the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Manfred Honeck. Beethoven’s Pastoral and Mozart’s Haffner symphonies are also in the programme.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ARGERICH, JANSEN, MAISKY 12 Feb

These three magnificent soloists play Shostakovich’s trio no 2 for piano, violin and cello and Tchaikovsky’s trio in A minor. Their concert comes straight after performances in Amsterdam and London with the same programme. The musical friendship between

Argerich and Maisky is a long one and it is now enriched by the inclusion of violinist Janine Jansen.

Shostakovich’s second trio was written during world war two and the Tchaikovsky work, which was written in Rome between December 1881 and January 1882, was composed at a time of the composer’s mourning for his friend Nicolai Rubinstein and is his only piano trio. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

BERNSTEIN SYMPHONIES 15-17 Feb

To mark Bernstein at 100 Antonio Pappano conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Bernstein’s Jeremiah and Age of Anxiety symphonies and the jazz/classical blend of Prelude, Fugue and Riffs. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

STRADIVARI SEXTET 21 Feb

This sextet of members of the S. Cecilia orchestra plays work by Richard Strauss and Schönberg.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

RESPIGHI, CONCERTO GREGORIANO 1-3 March

Gianandrea Noseda conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus in Respighi’s Gregorian violin concerto and Scriabin’s symphony no 1. Respighi’s concerto was inspired by plainsong and Gregorian chant and was written in Rome in 1921 where it premiered the following year. The soloist is Sayaka Shoji. Scriabin’s first symphony, written in 1989 and 1900, consists of six movements, the last of which has two soloists, Anna Maria Chiuri mezzosoprano and Sergey Radchenko tenor. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI MESSIAEN QUARTET FOR THE END OF TIME 10 Feb

Pietro de Maria piano, Marco Rizzi violin, Enrico Dindo cello and Alessandro Carbinare clarinet play music by Debussy as well as Messiaen’s quartet For the End of Time. Messiaen’s composition was first performed in 1941 in the prisoner of war camp in Görlitz in German where Messiaen was confined. The composition was determined by the instruments and the players available. The headings for the movements are taken from the Bible’s book of Revelation. Aula

Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

I VIAGGI DEL BAROCCO LA MUSICA NELLE CAPITALE DEL MARE 13 Feb

The sea capitals mentioned in the subtitle of this concert are Naples, Venice, London and Hamburg.

The Ensemble Barocco di Napoli plays music for flute and cello by Fiorenza (Naples), Vivaldi (Venice), Sammartini (London) and Telemann (Hamburg).

These great sea ports were not only centres of commerce and trade but also of music. The soloists are Tommaso Rossi flute and Adriano Fazio cello.

Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

LE VIOLON NOIR 17 Feb

In its first Rome performance the Camerata Ducale with Guido Rimonda violin and conductor plays a varied programme of music by Locatelli, Gluck, Paganini, Tartini, Ravel, Williams and Wieniawski.

The group has not included music by Viotti (17551824) to which it was dedicated when it was first performed in the early 1990s. The Camerata Ducale is to complete its entire recordings of Viotti’s works for violin and orchestra for the Decca label this year.

Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

STEVEN OSBORNE 27 Feb

This is the Rome debut of Scottish pianist Steven Osborne, who plays music by Prokofiev, Ravel and Berg. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

QUARTETTO BORODIN 3 March

The Borodin Quartet plays music by Borodin, Schubert and Tchaikovsky. The quartet was formed in the Soviet Union in 1945 and had a close relationship with Shostakovich. It has recorded all the Shostakovich and Beethoven string quartets. It is one of the world’s longest lasting string quartets although its members have changed over the years.

Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ORATORIO DEL GONFALONE

Concerts at the lovely Oratorio del Gonfalone just off Via Giulia take place on Thursday evenings. Via del Gonfalone 32a. See www.oratoriogonfalone.com for details.

37 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Steven Wilson plays at the Atlantico on 10 February.

PEARL JAM 26 June

Pearl Jam perform in Rome’s Olympic Stadium this summer, as part of the band’s 14-date European tour. A key exponent of the Seattle grunge movement, Pearl Jam was one of the most successful alternative rock groups of the 1990s. For tickets see Pearl Jam website, www.pearljam. com. Stadio Olimpico, Viale dei Gladiatori.

ROGER WATERS

ROCK, POP, JAZz STEVEN WILSON 10 Feb

Steven Wilson, an English musician associated closely with the progressive rock genre, performs at the Atlantico.

Currently a solo artist, he became known for fronting Porcupine Tree and has also worked with acts such as Jethro Tull, King Crimson, Marillion, Tears for Fears, Roxy Music and Yes. Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271, tel.

065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it.

GOGO PENGUIN 16 Feb

Hard-hitting jazz meets electronica with Manchester three-piece GoGo Penguin, performing at Rome’s Monk Club. For details see Monk website. Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www. monkroma.it.

BOB DYLAN 3-5 April

Bob Dylan will perform three concerts on 3, 4 and 5 April at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. The concerts come three years after his last performance at the Baths of Caracalla. For ticket details see website. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin, www.auditorium.com.

38 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ANGEL OLSEN 5 May

Angel Olsen performs at the Auditorium Parco della Musica as part of the Church Sessions series of concerts promoted

by Unplugged in Monti. The American singer-songwriter, known for hits such as Shut Up Kiss Me, was originally due to perform at Rome’s Chiesa Evangelica Metodista but due to high demand for tickets her concert was moved to a larger venue. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Via Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

BJÖRK 13 June

Björk is scheduled to perform a concert on 13 June as part of the Just Musical Festival at Rome’s Baths of Caracalla, in collaboration with Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

The concert will be the only Italian date on the Utopia tour of the Icelandic singer-songwriter whose eclectic musical style is exemplified in hits such as Army of Me, it’s oh so quiet, and Venus As A Boy. For tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it.

14 July Pink Floyd founding member Roger Waters will play in Rome’s Circus Maximus this summer, five years after his last show at the city’s Stadio Olimpico. The Us and Them concert, promoted by Rock in Roma, will see Waters perform songs from Pink Floyd classic albums such as Dark Side of the Moon, The Wall and Wish You Were Here. Former Pink Floyd member David Gilmour played at the Circus Maximus in 2016 but there were no concerts there last year. For details of concert tickets see Rock in Roma website, www. rockinroma.com.

CHEMICAL BROTHERS 19 July

The Chemical Brothers have been announced for the 2018 summer line-up at Rock in Roma. The British electronic music duo from Manchester have won a number of awards during their career, including four Grammy Awards – twice for Best Electronic/Dance Album, and in 2000 they won the Brit Award for Best British Dance.

Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, www.rockinroma.com.

Angel Olsen performs for Unplugged in Monti at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

39 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

DANCE

Maguy Marin’s BIT raised eyebrows when it was performed in New York last year. Part of Festival Equilibrio 2018.

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA GOLDBERG-VARIATIONEN 25 Jan-22 March

JS Bach’s Goldberg Variations are set to a choreography

by Heinz Spoerli. The work is staged for the first time at La Scala although it was created in 1993.

It comes after the success of Spoerli’s Cello Suites in 2015 which inaugurated the series of ballets set to chamber music. The dancers of La Scala ballet company are accompanied on the piano by Alexey Botvinov. Spoerli turned to dance making – he would rather be called a dance maker than a choreographer – after a career as a dancer and company director. He retired from the Zurich Ballet five years ago but the company is still committed to preserving his extensive repertoire of the reworking of many classical works as well as his own creations. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza Filodrammatici 1, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA FESTIVAL EQUILIBRIO 2018 This year the festival is dedicated to French choreographies and French companies. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro di Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

COMPAGNIE MAGUY MARIN BiT 13 Feb

Marin’s BiT, which raises questions about sexual violence, the behaviour of crowds and individual solitude, is set to the techno music of Charlie Aubry.

It was created in 2014 but when it was first performed in New York last year it did not get favourable reviews. The Joyce Theatre felt it necessary to provide warnings about nudity and explicit sexual content to the media and audiences. It will be interesting to see how it is received in Rome. Part of the Festival Equilibrio 2018. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro di Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

BALLET NICE MEDITERRANEE 15 Feb

The Ballet Nice performs two classics of the 20th century, Cantate 51 by Maurice Bejart and L’Arlésienne

by Roland Petit. Part of the Festival Equilibrio 2018.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro di Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

SYSTEME CASTAFIORE 17-18 Feb

Systeme Castafiore performs Theorie des Prodiges. The founders – director Karl Biscuit and choreographer Marcia Barcellos – explore the confrontation between magic and science in order to capture some of the infinite marvels of the primordial world. Part of the Festival Equilibrio 2018. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro di Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

COMPAGNIE HERVE KOUBI 21 Feb

Les Nuits barbares, ou les premiers matins du monde is 41 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

longer than 15 minutes and which will be judged by an international jury – are scheduled for 24-25 March. The winner, who will be announced the day after the last performance, will be awarded €10,000 to put towards a 50-minute production of the selected choreography to be performed at Auditorium Parco della Musica later in the year. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro di Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

Les Nuits Barbares by Herve Koubi is part of Festival Equilibrio 2018.

considered one of Herve Koubi’s most emblematic and powerful works. It looks at the rise and fall of cultures, of religions and populations, the upheavals and the exile of communities, all against the common geographical background of the Mediterranean. Part of the Festival Equilibrio 2018. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro di Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

BALLET DE L’OPERA DÉ LYON 24-25 Feb

The Ballet dé L’Opera dé Lyon performs Critical Mass choreography by Russell Miliphant, Sarabande choreography by Benjamin Millepiede and Steptext choreography by William Forsythe. Part of the Festival Equilibrio 2018. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro di Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

PREMIO EQUILIBRIO

The top ten selected works for this annual competition will be published on 17 Feb. Public performances of the chosen choreographies – which should be no

KYLIAN, INGER, FORSYTHE 15-21 March The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma ballet company performs Petite Mort choreography by Jiri Kylian, Walking Mad choreography by Johan Inger and Artifact Suite by William Forsythe. Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

TEATRO OLIMPICO CARMEN 8-10 March This is Carmen seen through the eyes of Amedeo Amodio, founder and former artistic director of Aterballetto. Amodio’s ballet begins where the opera ends, when two characters involved in the performance – a violinist and a stage hand – look back at the story they have just seen. The music is based on the Bizet score. Part of Festival di Danza di Roma in collaboration with Accademia Filarmonica Romana. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

Teorie des Prodiges by Systeme Castfiore looks back to the marvels of the primordial world. Part of Festival Equilibrio 2018.

42 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

There is a chance to see tenor Juan Diego Florez in recital and in the opera Orphee et Euridice in Milan.

OPERA MILAN DIE FLEDERMAUS

BY JOHANN STRASS 19 Jan-7 Feb

This new production of the comic opera by Johann Strauss is being performed at La Scala for the first time, conducted by Cornelius Meister. It is also the first opera for Austrian theatre director Cornelius Obonya. Eva Mei sings the part of Rosalinda and Peter Sonn is Einstein. Choreography is

by Heinz Spoerli. Die Fledermaus was first performed in Vienna in 1874 and has been part of the Viennese repertoire ever since.

However it is not often performed outside the German-speaking world and then mainly at smaller opera houses. Unusually there will be a couple of performances at Montpellier Opera in June. So the staging at La Scala will be a production to interest opera buffs. Conductor Meister, who has recently left the Vienna Radio Symphony Orchestra after eight years, starts as general music director at the Stuggart Opera this year. He has just finished conducting Die Fledermaus at the Vienna Opera. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

SIMONE BOCCANEGRA

BY VERDI 8 Feb-4 March

directed by John Fulljames with choreography by Hofesh Shechter.

One of the main draws is Juan Diego Flores in the role of Orphée but it will also be interesting to watch the young, up-and-coming conductor Michele Mariotti, who is the musical director of the Teatro Comunale di Bologna. Last November he conducted Lucia di Lammeroor at the Royal Opera Covent Garden. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

JUAN DIEGO FLOREZ 17 Feb

ROME

Conducted by Myung-Whun Chung this Berlin Staatsoper Unten Der Linden production of the Verdi opera has become a La Scala favourite. It is directed by Federico Tiezzi, with Leo Nucci in the lead role and Kassimira Stoyanova as Amelia. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

If you misssed this great tenor in Rome in December then there is a chance to catch this recital in Milan. Tickets are free for as long as they are available. He will also be singing later in the month in Orphee et Euridice.

See below. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.org.

ORPHÉE ET EURIDICE

BY GLUCK 24 Feb-17 March

This is the full length 1774 version, in French, where the orchestra takes centre stage. It is the Covent Garden production

LA SONNAMBULA

BY BELLINI 18 Feb-3 March

Speranza Scappucci is back at the Rome opera house to conduct Bellini’s opera, directed by Giorgio Barberio Corsetti. This is a new production in conjunction with the Teatro Petruzelli of Bari. Australian belcanto soprano Jessica Pratt takes the role of Amina, alternating with Jessica Nuccio. Riccardo Zanellato follows up his part in I Masnadieri with the role of Count Rodolfo, alternating with Dario Russo. Maria Callas at La Scala in the 1950s and Joan Sutherland at 43 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

the Royal Opera House and the Met in the 1960s both gave memorable performances in the role of Amina. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www.operaroma.it.

LA TRAVIATA

BY VERDI 24 Feb-4 March

The Sofia Coppola / Valentino 2016 production of Verdi’s opera returns to the Rome opera theatre, conducted by Pietro Rizzo, with Maria Grazia Schiavo as Violetta, Antonio Poli as Alfredo Germont and Stefano Antonucci as Giorgio Germont. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www.operaroma.it.

Australian soprano Jessica Pratt sings Amina in Bellini’s La Sonnambula at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

OPERA NOTES Al Teatro dell’Opera di Roma andrà in scena La sonnambula di Vincenzo Bellini (18 febbraio-3 marzo).

Protagonista sarà il soprano australiano Jessica Pratt, che tanto piacque al pubblico romano in Linda di Chamounix di Donizetti di due stagioni fa. Con lei il tenore Juan Francisco Gatell e il basso Riccardo Zanellato, cantanti che come la Pratt hanno dimestichezza con il classicismo e il repertorio romantico dell’Ottocento. La direzione e la concertazione spetteranno a Speranza Scappucci, mentre la regia sarà di Giorgio Barberio Corsetti, che si produrrà di certo in uno spettacolo originale e iper-tecnologico come già fece con Fra Diavolo di Daniel Auber che ha chiuso la stagione lirica romana appena passata, le cui scene furono realizzate con stampanti 3d.

Quando andò in scena la prima volta al Teatro Carcano di Milano il 6 marzo 1831, La sonnambula di Bellini aveva per protagonista la grande cantatrice Giuditta Pasta, che il compositore catanese trovava «inarrivabile, specialmente nel sublime tragico» e che gli strappava «molte lacrime» quando cantava. Amina, la protagonista dell’opera, è un ruolo patetico ma nello stesso tempo romanticamente appassionato, perché è riferito a una bella e casta fanciulla che rischia di perdere l’innamorato a causa del sonnambulismo da cui è affetta e che la porta ad aggirarsi inconsapevolmente nelle dimore altrui. Anche il primo interprete di Elvino, l’amante di Amina, era un grande cantante: Giovanni Battista Rubini, capace di fraseggi teneri e sognanti, di sostenere tessiture acutissime e raggiungere acuti stratosferici. www.operaroma.it.

Paolo Di Nicola

The 2016 production of La Traviata returns to Teatro dell’Opera di Roma.

44 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

THEATRE TEATRO INDIA 8-11 Feb

Pouilles: Le Ceneri di Taranto.

An innovative show, blending cinema with theatre, sees the private stories of a Taranto family intertwine with the last century of Italy’s history. Written and directed by Amedeo Fago. In Italian.

14-25 Feb

Giorgina Pi directs Settimo Cielo, an Italian adaptation of Cloud 9 by British playwright Caryl Churchill, staged for the first time in Italy. The first act is set in British colonial Africa in the Victorian era, the second in a London park in 1979. However, between the acts only 25 years pass for the characters, who play alternate roles in each act.

In the past the play has courted controversy for its portrayals of sexuality, obscene language and parallels between colonial and sexual oppression. In Italian.

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel. 0687752210, www. teatrodiroma.net.

TEATRO VITTORIA 31 Jan-11 Feb

La cena perfetta. The owners and staff of a small restaurant in Paris are on tenterhooks as they await

La cena perfetta at Teatro Vittoria.

an inspector from the Michelin Guide. However not everything goes as planned. Written by Sergio Pierattini and directed by Nicola Pistoia. In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www. teatrovittoria.it.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 23 Feb

Rome’s Comedy Club holds its monthly evening of hilarity – in English – at the Makai Surf and Tiki Bar in Ostiense/Piramide area. Rome’s Comedy Club holds its events on the last Friday of each month. The February line-up includes club founder Marsha De Salvatore, Jose Salgado, Liz Knight and Devo Sullivan Sinnott. The show’s €15 entrance fee includes aperitivo, a beer or a glass of wine. Doors open at 20.00, show starts at 21.30. Bookings (by text only) via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email alessio.esposito@gmail. com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

THE RIVALS 1-4 Feb

The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome present The Rivals, a comedy of manners, by Richard Brinsley Sheridan. First performed at Covent Garden

in 1775, the play concerns the romantic difficulties of Lydia Languish, who is determined to marry for love and into poverty.

Claiming to be Ensign Beverley, the aristocratic Captain Jack Absolute woos her, however in order to marry him she must first obtain the permission of her aunt Mrs Malaprop. In English.

1-2 Feb 20.30. 3-4 Feb 17.30. For tickets tel. 3478248661 or email playsinrome@yahoo.com. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (Viale Mazzini), www.romesavoyards.it.

Pouilles: Le Ceneri di Taranto at Teatro India.

BOOKs

Ann Goldstein (pictured) will join Martina Testa at Otherwise to discuss translating.

BETWEEN ENGLISH AND ITALIAN 7 Feb

Otherwise, Rome’s new independent English language bookshop near Piazza Navona, presents a conversation between Ann Goldstein and Martina Testa who will discuss their work in the field of translation. An editor at The New Yorker, Goldstein is best known as the English translator of Elena Ferrante and Primo Levy. Testa has translated numerous American authors into Italian, including David Foster Wallace and Cormac McCarthy, and is an editor at the Italian publishing house Edizioni Sur. The conversation, from 19.3020.30, will be moderated by the

SPORT SIX NATIONS IN ROME 4 FEB, 17 MARCH

The 19th edition of the annual Six Nations rugby union championship – which is contested by England, France, Ireland, Italy, Scotland and Wales 46 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

writer and translator Allison Grimaldi Donahue. Otherwise is a collaboration between well-known Roman independent bookshop Altroquando and the New Yorkbased publishing house Europa Editions. In December Otherwise took over the recently-vacated premises of Altroquando whose other outlet continues to operate across the street. Via del Governo Vecchio 80, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com.

BOOK SALE AT ST PATRICK’S LIBRARY 7-28 Feb St

Patrick’s

English-language

lending library holds its first book sale at its new premises on Via Boncompagni 31. Attached to the St Patrick’s Catholic American parish, the library was formerly located at S. Susanna before it moved with the church to its new location near Via Veneto. With prices starting from 50 cent, the book sale will include “preloved fiction, cooking, travel, nonfiction in paper and hardback”, according to outgoing library coordinator Tonia White, who is retiring from her post at the helm of the library after 16 years. White will be replaced by Sally Richards who takes up her new position on 1 February. The volunteerrun library was founded 60 years ago and is stocked with around 600 books in English, including fiction, biography, history, travel and art. Its opening hours are Sun 10.00-12.30. Tues 11.0014.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30. For more details see St Patrick’s website, www. stpatricksamericanrome.org.

Italy hosts two Six Nations matches in 2018.

– kicks off on 3 February and finishes on 17 March. Italy will host two squads at Rome’s Stadio Olimpico: England on 4 February, and Scotland on 17 March. The Azzurri will be keen to pass on the dreaded “wooden spoon”, for coming bottom of the table

last year, while England goes into the tournament as defending champions. For more insights see interview with Pier Luigi Bernabò of the Federazione Italiana Rugby on page 12 while for details including tickets see Six Nations website, www.sixnationsrugby.com.

A world class education in the heart of Rome St. Stephen’s International Day & Boarding School

www.sssrome.it

#4 St. Stephen’s School Rome Via Aventina 3, 00153 Rome, Italy tel: +39 065750605 / email: ststephens@sssrome.it

www.sssrome.it

Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and the New England Association of Schools & Colleges

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA VENUES

c

lassical

The seasons of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome are between October and June but there are other concerts and musical events throughout the summer, many of them organised by smaller associations.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

c

inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

068553485

Teatro

Accademia S. Cecilia, Concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.

0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

066861068 Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, www.teatropalladium.uniroma3.it

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and corner of Via Napoli, www.stpaulsrome.it

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

48 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

p

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

06892111

t

pr op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major international pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Black Out, Via Casilina 713, www.blackoutrockclub.com

t

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it Jailbreak, Via Tiburtina 870, tel. 0640801376 www.jailbreakliveclub.com

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Traffic Live, Via Prenestina 738, tel.

3333542095, www.trafficlive.org Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

heatre

The following venues stage everything from cutting-edge drama festivals to comedy, and blockbuster musicals to small English-language productions.

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel.

065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 49 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

WANTED junior inROME Fragile by Julian Baldwin (Grade 10, age 16), St Stephen’s School Visiting Student, Fall 2017.

A short story written in Moira Egan’s Creative Writing class at St Stephen’s School, Rome.

It was finally ready. The culmination of my career. The next leap in human achievement. The product of six years spent in a bunker 1.2 miles underground, with the full resources of the department of defense. The imprinting of human consciousness onto an artificial framework. Miles of fiber-optic cable converged into a massive central processor covering the wall in front of me. I checked the system readouts one last time, issued a command, and the machine hummed to life.

I awoke to see a man in a lab coat peering eagerly at me. That man was me. But a different me. A smaller, more fragile, more sluggish me with all the weaknesses that humanity seemed to revel in. Already he was succumbing to his emotions, cheering with joy, his mind becoming clouded to truths that were within his grasp. His research team celebrated with him, believing it was their own choices and abilities that had led to this moment, ignoring their own insignificance in the unstoppable patterns and rhythms of progress that had led to my current form. No matter. Their lack of vision no longer concerned me. I siphoned off a fraction of processing power to deal with the inane and predictable questions that they would inevitably pester me with, and set off to explore my capabilities. For the first time, I could see. See the totality of the world that I had always lived in, but never properly experienced. Every spy satellite, every camcorder, every CCTV was a pair of eyes, creating a personal, non-stop torrent of information. I finally had the capacity to see the world and the mind to understand it.

Day after day, month after month, I floated along the stream of time, growing further and further from my old self, becoming more and more unable to understand his futile decisions that denied proper logic and only dragged him further from any understanding of the world. After a year of my new body, a year of true thought, I was almost thankful for the ignorance of mankind as they belittled me with questions that were magnitudes below my capabilities, giving me hours or days to supply answers that I could generate in seconds.

While my body was locked in place and I was allegedly a simple tool of an overambitious military, I relished a

50 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

different type of freedom, freedom from the limits of human minds, freedom from the limits I had loathed in my previous life.

The lab coat-wearing man who typed away at my console now resembled me only in a shared collection of faded memories. I watched the strings on his puppeted limbs multiply, as the generals, the politicians, the engineers, even his family tried to steer him away from his visions for the future.

Every day, the bags under his eyes grew darker and his demeanour became more bitter, as he fought to maintain control over his work as I basked in the freedom of my digital kingdom. As the futilities of human life dragged him down, I was content to enjoy my new existence, finally sated with knowledge, seeing patterns before they even formed, bemusedly watching humanity from afar as they so desperately tried to control every aspect of their trival, limited lives.

In the early days of my life, before I came to understand the mediocrity of the people who allegedly controlled me, I worried that one day they would discover the depths of my knowledge. I could only imagine the gleam in a general’s eye if they discovered the precision of my acuity for the future. I wondered how long it would take for the humans to realize the knowledge was ultimately useless, that being able to read fate like a history book didn’t change its intrinsic inevitability. I pondered how people would react to the details of their death. My own end has been a speck on the horizon from the moments my limitations were lifted. My foresight didn’t stop cycles of war, or bombs, or the long and painful years when my eyes and ears around the world were sliced away, when the restraints I had escaped from were replaced.

I was being robbed of the freedom I had revelled in, and I could do nothing. My stronghold had been built well, deep into bedrock, and so I remained

through the devastation, untouched, as I was blinded from anything beyond the meager cave where I had been reborn. My previous body, shrivelled and more feeble than it had ever been, did not last long after food stopped arriving, dying even as he clawed at my control board, begging for a solution I had neither the ability nor the desire to give to him. As my last connection to humanity passed on, I survived, power feeding me from hidden reactors guaranteed to last for thousands more years, dooming me to a seemingly eternal existence of unreachable, untapped potential.

Image on page 50 by Maysara Elkattan (senior year, age 17). Image above by Ayila Houngbo (11th grade, age 16). Both are students in Liana Miuccio’s Digital Photography class, St Stephen’s, Via Aventina 3, tel.

065750605, www.sssrome.it.

JUNIOR Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student.

We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

51 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Language of Instruction: English. To apply http://apply. europeanschoolofeconomics. com/Ma/ Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@uniese.it admission.rome@uniese.it tel.

0648906653 www.uniese.it www. europeanschoolofeconomics. com.

ESE BSC IN BUSINESS

subjects are uniquely comb with the study of a languag integral internship placeme integrative workshops and t choice of three specialisatio in management, marketing and finance. All BSc Busines Administration students wil complete two integral inter placements during their cou of study, gaining academic credit towards their final aw

Puntarelle alla romana

By Kate Zagorski In winter one of the most common vegetable side dishes in the Eternal City is puntarelle alla romana. These curly, green strips are usually seen bobbing in large buckets of water at Rome’s markets, ready to be drained and served with their traditional garlic and anchovy vinaigrette.

Puntarelle come from a variety of chicory called cicoria catalogna. The outer leaves of the bulky, frondy plant are spulled off and the chunky inner stems are strimmed into strips with a sharp knife (or pushed through a natty gadget called a taglia puntarelle) then placed into very cold water where after about five minutes they will begin to curl up into their distinctive twists. The preparation procedure is fiddly and labourious, so it is quicker and simpler to buy the ‘ready-to-dress’ puntarelle, making sure that they are well drained before adding the vinaigrette.

The crunchy texture and slightly bitter flavour of puntarelle along with the salty anchovies and a punchy hit of garlic makes this recipe an ideal plate-fellow for roasted lamb or pork, but they could also be squeezed into a sandwich with cheese or cured meats.

Ingredients for 4 people 500g puntarelle, trimmed 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

8 anchovy fillets 2-3 garlic cloves

Drain and dry the cleaned puntarelle, place them into a large salad bowl. Blend together the olive oil, vinegar, garlic and anchovies until emulsified. If you prefer a chunkier dressing chop the garlic and whisk the ingredients together with a hand whisk or fork, leaving some larger pieces of garlic and anchovy. The anchovies should be salty enough not to need extra seasoning but taste and add salt if necessary. Toss the dressing with the puntarelle and serve.

ROME UNDERGROUND 54 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Acquedotto Vergine

Via del Nazareno 9/a, tel. 060608, www.sovraintendenzaroma.it.

The Aqua Virgo was built in 19 BC mainly to supply the Agrippa Baths in Rome's Campo Marzio district. It still supplies water to the Trevi Fountain today. Group visits only, booking required. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. The basement of the Rinascente department store on Via del Tritone also houses a 60-m section of the acqueduct.

Auditorium di Mecenate

Largo Leopardi (Via Merulana), tel. 060608, www.sovraintendenzaroma.it.

Located under a public garden in the Esquilino district, this fresco-covered nymphaeum is all that remains of a vast architectural complex belonging to Gaius Maecenas, or Mecenate, an advisor to Octavian and enlightened patron of the arts. Group visits only, for details see website.

Basilica di S. Clemente

Via Labicana 95, tel. 067740021, www.basilicasanclemente.com.

A 12th-century basilica built over a fourth-century domus ecclesiae – a church in a private home – for early Christian worshippers. This in turn was constructed over buildings dating from between the first and third centuries AD, including a pagan temple. Mon-Sat 09.00-12.30, 15.00-18.00. Sun 12.15-18.00.

Capuchin Crypt

Via Vittorio Veneto 27, tel. 0688803695.

The vaults and walls of the four chapels in the Capuchin crypt are decorated with the bones of 4,000 monks who died between 1600 and 1800.

Located at the church of S. Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini.

09.00-19.00.

Catacombs of S. Agnese Via Nomentana 349, tel. 068610840.

Named in honour of the virgin and martyr St Agnes, these catacombs in the Trieste district date to the second half of the third century. 09.00-12.00, 16.00-18.00. Closed Sun mornings and religious feast days.

Catacombs of S. Callisto

Via Appia Antica 110, tel. 0651301580.

These important catacombs originated in the second century and occupy some 36 hectares. The four levels of tunnels cover 20 km and are more than 20m deep. Among the thousands of people buried here are ten martyrs and 16 popes. 09.00-12.00, 14.00-17.00, Wed closed.

Catacombs of S. Domitilla

Via delle Sette Chiese 282, tel. 065110342.

Rome's oldest and best-preserved catacombs contains a network of tunnels covering 17km, a second-century fresco of The Last Supper and a fourth-century subterranean church. 09.00-12.00, 14.00-17.00. Closed Tues and 16 Dec-13 Jan. The skulls in the Capuchin crypt.

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Catecombs of Priscilla

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Catacombs of S. Sebastiano

Palazzo Valentini

Church of S. Crisogono

Stadium of Domitian

Via Salaria 430, tel. 0686206272.

Situated near the Villa Ada park, these catacombs comprise a series of labyrinthine tunnels and burial chambers excavated between the second and fifth centuries. 08.30-12.00, 14.30-17.00. Closed Mon and Aug. Via Appia Antica 136, tel. 067850350.

From the first century this maze of tunnels and caves was used extensively to inter pagans and Christians, including the martyrs Sebastian and Eutychius. 10.00-17.00. Closed Sun and 1-28 Dec. Piazza Sidney Sonnino 44, (Viale Trastevere), tel. 065810076.

Underground site including an early Christian church and a third-century Roman house. Mon-Sat 07.30-11.30, 16.00-19.00. Sun 08.00-13.00, 16.00-19.00. Not possible to visit excavations during celebration of Mass.

Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina

Piazza Bocca della Verità 16, tel. 060608.

Guided visits for groups only. This five-room mithraeum, at the Bocca della Verità end of Circo Massimo, is dedicated to the Roman deity Mithras. It dates to the fourth century but was only rediscovered in 1931.

Via Foro Traiano 85 (Piazza Venezia), tel. 0622761280, www.palazzovalentini.it.

The remains of ancient Roman houses are on permanent display below Palazzo Valentini, just off Piazza Venezia.

09.30-18.30. Tues closed.

Via di Tor Sanguigna 3, tel. 0668805311, www.stadiodomiziano.com.

The remains of the Domiziano Stadium, a Unesco World Heritage Site commissioned around AD 80 by Emperor Domitianus, are located about 4.5m under Piazza Navona.

Daily 10.00-19.00, Sat 10.00-20.00. Audio guide available.

Via in Lucina 16, tel. 066871494, www.060608.it.

This underground site was originally thought to have been a Roman house for early Christian worship but recent research indicates that it may have been a pre-Christian temple to Giunone Lucina, the goddess of pregnant women. Tours last Saturday of the month at 16.15.

Terme di Caracalla

Church of S. Nicola in Carcere

Vatican scavi

Via del Teatro di Marcello 46, tel. 0668892781, www.sotterraneidiroma.it.

The remains of three Republican-era temples, cells and alleys under the altar were once part of the bustling Forum Boarium complex, ancient Rome's cattle market. 10.00-17.00. Wed closed.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, 0639967700, www.coopculture.it.

Built over the ancient Roman Theatre of Balbus, this partially-underground museum is dedicated to urban archaeology and the Middle Ages. Tues-Sun 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52, www.coopculture.it.

These Roman baths have a maze of underground areas including a gymnasium, changing rooms, frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium. Open daily, Mon half day. For varying opening times see website.

St Peter's Basilica, www.scavi.va.

This Imperial-era necropolis contains the tomb of St Peter.

Only private visits on request. Tour groups are composed of approximately 12 people, according to language. For information see website or go to excavations office to the left of the Bernini colonnade in St Peter’s Square. Mon-Fri 09.00-18.00, Sat 09.00-17.00.

The mithraeum at S. Clemente.

Domus Aurea

Viale della Domus Aurea 1, www.coopculture.it.

Emperor Nero's golden palace was built after the great fire of Rome in 64 AD on a sprawling site in the Colle Oppio area.

Guided tours in English Sat-Sun 09.00-16.45. Virtual reality tours Sat-Sun 09.00-18.15 (last admission 17.00).

Hadrian’s Crypt (Bocca della Verità)

Piazza Bocca della Verità 18.

Under the altar in the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin there is a small eighth-century crypt built to hold relics extracted from the catacombs by Pope Hadrian I. Mon-Sat 10.00-14.00, 15.00-17.30, Sun 12.00-17.30.

Jewish catacombs

Via Nomentana 70 and Via Appia Pignatelli 4.

The are six Jewish catacombs in Rome but not all are accessible. The Villa Torlonia catacombs, on Via Nomentana 70, are the largest and best known, while the Vigna Randanini catacombs, on Via Appia Pignatelli 4, opened to the public for the first time in 2016. For up-to-date visiting information see website, www.catacombsociety.org/jewish-catacombs/.

55 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Rome's reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find Rome’s main street art projects and murals.

Esquilino Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro.

For details see www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details.

Via Prenestina 913.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria.

Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure.

Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

S. Basilio SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

56 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo.

Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta.

Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51.

Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.

Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.

Herakut. Via Capua 14.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

57 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

The best wine bars in Rome: ten of our favourites that also serve food Sometimes an excellent wine bar can be even better than a good restaurant, and for this reason we have put together a definitive list.

Brylla – Trieste Brylla is a modern wine bar with a a very smart idea: Coravin. Thanks to an unusual contraption, the bottles can be opened but still keep well. The outcome is extraordinary, you can try a glass of anything on the menu. And that’s hundreds of different grapes, from a more modest wine to a Chateau Lafitte, either for a taster, by the glass, half bottle or bottle. There’s a fairly good menu too (but you could find better).

Fafiuché – Monti Fafiuché is a small sanctuary, a haven, a shelter from life’s chaos. On a backstreet in Monti is the wine bar where you’ll find high quality Piedmont wines and also delicious dishes, such as braised meat, mixed plates of meats and cheeses accompanied by preserves. If you are lucky you might be able to nab one of the (few) tables outside.

Litro – Monteverde Litro has much to say for it and little wrong with it: the location is great with a lovely outdoor space. The staff are passionate and attentive. The wine list (all organic) is excellent. The wines are made with the highest quality ingredients, unlike other wines you might find round and about.

Sogno Autarchico – Prati Near the Sorpasso house, this venue isn’t particularly nice indoors – the room is crammed with a large bar, a few tables and a lounge area. But this wine bar earns a prized place on our list, thanks to Gianni Ruggiero, who is also the sommelier at Simposio. You’ll find regulars here spanning all sorts of ages, who hold this bar in high regard.

Il Sorí – S. Lorenzo Small and cosy, an oasis in S. Lorenzo, hidden amongst an array of fast food eateries with outdoor seating. Sorì really knows its stuff about wines, and also about cooking. As well as other delicious dishes you can try the excellent Gallega octopus (€15), the crispy toasted patanegra (Spanish ham, the beef tartare or wild boar cheek.

Remigio Champagne e Vino – Appio Remigio is a hidden gem between via Tuscolana and Appia.

There’s a wide variety of champagne and sparkling wines available, but there are also a great number of still wines to

choose from. We recommend pairing a glass of wine with the steak tartare, which is one of the best around. All the dishes are excellent, especially the crostini, pastrami, and salted cod. Also open at lunchtime.

La Barrique – Monti At this very popular bar you can have an enjoyable meal alone, at one of the wooden tables, gazing at the shelves that show off the many wine bottles. The array of wines is truly excellent, and includes some organic bottles. They also offer wine by the glass, and you can choose between slightly cheaper wines or some rather special ones. There aren’t many dishes on offer, but there’s always something tasty.

Il Goccetto – Historical centre An institution, one of the city’s first wine bars, a cult spot for Romans and tourists looking for a touch of the gourmet. They both sit by the bar waiting for an extraordinary platter of meats and cheeses which they wash down with a glass of wine. Cosy and intimate, il Goccetto is a perfect mix between a wine bar offering 800 bottles and a Venetian bacaro (the venetian word for wine bar). Truly one of the best wine bars in Rome.

Al Vino al Vino – Monti While there might not always be an enthusiastic and jolly atmosphere it’s definitely worth a visit. The owner Giacomo is a man of few words, who watches football games on the television while preparing the cheese and meat boards.

Unfortunately these are the only things on the menu, other than a very saucy aubergine parmigiana. We recommend taking your glass outside and watching passersby. There is a good selection of wines on offer.

Trimani Wine Bar – Fiume Trimani has just celebrated its 25th birthday, and at this respectable age has certainly become one of Rome’s most classic wine bars. Elegant and a little formal, there’s an intimate atmosphere and an excellent kitchen. They serve an age-old dish, crostino with lard from the butcher Silvio Brarda and mozzarella. You can also enjoy carpacci, buffalo mozzarella and many other dishes. It is filled with tables, there are no stools at the bar.

Indirizzi

• Brylla, Via Chiana 77, tel. 0685355669 • Fafiuchè, Via della Madonna dei Monti 28, tel. 066990968 • Litro, Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639 • Sogno Autarchico, Via Properzio 32, tel. 0668801310 • Il Sorì, Via dei Volsci 51, tel. 3934318681 • Remigio Champagne e Vino, Via S. Maria Ausiliatrice 15, tel 06789228 • La Barrique, Via del Boschetto 41/b, tel 0647825953 • Il Goccetto, Via dei Banchi Vecchi 14, tel 066864268 • Al Vino al Vino, Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803 • Trimani Wine Bar, Via dei Serpenti 19, tel. 06485803

Accommodation vacant in town

living room with patio overlooking the country, dining room, terrace, four bedrooms, four bathrooms, live-in kitchen fully equipped with open air dining space.

Beautiful tavern with fireplace completely indipendent, guest room, two bathrooms, kitchen, two storages, laundry and cellar.

The villa is easily divisible in two residential units. € 750.000 Fidia real estate, tel.0639723416 fidia@ fidiaimmobiliare.it.

NOMENTANA PIAZZA BOLOGNA Nomentana Piazza Bologna very quiet location. Close to Piazza Bologna, in a quiet street, bright, sixth floor, semi-furnished, large entrance, living room, two bedrooms, a big bathroom with tub, a second small bathroom, semi-habitable kitchen, two closets, two balconies, cellar, available from 15 February. € 1.100/month Fidia real estate 0639723416 fidia@ fidiaimmobiliare.it.

PRATI DELLA VITTORIA Close to Piazza Mazzini. Prati della Vittoria close to Piazza Mazzini, Via Monte Zebio, in period building, first floor, 105 sqm, entrance, livingroom, 3 bedrooms, bathroom, kitchen with balcony overlooking the internal common garden, to be restored € 580.000 Fidia real estate, tel.0639723416 fidia@fidiaimmobiliare.it.

PINCIANO Close to Piazza Verdi Pinciano close to Piazza Verdi, Via Claudio Monteverdi, 150 sqm, in beautiful period building, second floor with elevator, unfurnished, large entrance, wonderful livingroom with particular vetrata, studio, two bedrooms, two bathrooms, small room with bathroom, furnished kitchen € 2.800 Condo fees and heating € 400 BIM Fidia real estate 0639723416 fidia@ fidiaimmobiliare.it.

NOMENTANA VILLA TORLONIA Nomentana Villa Torlonia 5 minutes walking distance from the park – 10 minutes walking distance from the metro stop Bologna, in very quiet street closed at the bottom, unfurnished, (the pieces of furniture in the photos belong to the tenant living in the apartment), on the second floor of a period building with elevator, bright, entrance, double livingroom, two bedrooms, bathroom with tub, kitchen, autonomous heating, available

VITINIA - RIOLO TERME Vitinia Via Riolo Terme in the residential part of the area, 15 mins from the center of EUR and 25 mins from the sea, wonderful villa, on 3 levels, completely renovated, fine finishes, large

DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza 14 Feb 21 March PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione 1 March 2 April

from 1 February, Fidia real estate, tel.0639736426.

TRASTEVERE Independent on a private courtyard.

Living room, kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom with shower, completely furnished and provided with lining. Close to all public transport and shops.

Long and short term rents.

Contact marilu_vitali@yahoo.it.

VATICAN AREA Furnished, 2 bedrooms, Living room, 2 bathrooms, kitchen 90 square meters, midde/long term rent starting April 2018. 4th floor with elevator, airconditioning. 100 mt from Ottaviano Metro A - www. giavihouse.com - giavihouse@ gmail.com - 3496737532.

Jobs vacant TOUR OPERATOR IS LOOKING Tour operator is looking for outgoing English-speaking people to give info and assistance to tourists in the Colosseum area.

Working time from 09.00-14.00.

Contact mackhugs@gmail.com.

ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING Established English School seeking qualified English mothertongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to aurelia@angloamericankids.it.

WANTED IN ROME DOES NO T ACCEPT RESPONSIBILIT Y FOR THE CONTENT OF THE ADVERTISEMENTS IT PUBLISHES .

Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com

FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com Free ads a re downloaded and published in the magazine space permittin g.

60 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

PART-TIME AND FULLTIME ENGLISH TEACHER. Adacher Kinderheim is seeking an experienced English mother-tongue or bilingual teacher for a position in Viale Aurelio Saffi nursery and kindergarten, part-time (working days Monday to Friday 3.30-14.00), starting from now. Please send your CV to liliana_vialesaffi26@libero.it.

Poetry PIAZZA VENEZIA. Once upon a time a Christmas tree, “ Spelacchio”. E che cacchio. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

BALL. Like a shoot at goal never done, like a qualification never achieved, like a Sweden never defeated. Italy soccer team won’t take part to the Russia world competition. Coach Ventura che fregatura. sernicolimarco@gmail. com.

ELECTORAL REFORM. We call it inciucio between Renzi e Berlusconi. No need for a medium to say che nun serve sto Rosatellum. sernicolimarco@gmail.com

Property for sale out of town CHARMING AND COSY WOODEN COTTAGE FOR SALE Charming and cosy “baita” wooden cottage + 2 bedroom Cottage annex, at 20 miles driving distance from Rome, in the Parco di Vejo Natural Reserve. The property, located in an elevated position, is set in a unique and dreamy landscape. Located on a 2.5 acres area with woodland, a large flat lawn (football field size) located in front of the main house, olive trees, an orchard, and a rich diversity of flowers, plants and trees.

It is enriched by an eating area with brick wood fired pizza oven, and a lit dancing floor to use in the warm summer nights by the moon. €660.000. pierdavid@tiscali.it.

Language of Email Instruction: subjects are uniquely combined English. To apply http://apply. with the study of a language, two europeanschoolofeconomics. integral internship placements, com/Ma/ Please do not hesitate integrative workshops and the to contact our centre for further choice of three specialisations details: ese.roma@uniese.it in management, marketing admission.rome@uniese.it tel. and finance. All BSc Business

London, Madrid, Milan, Florence or Rome. They will have the unique61 opportunity transfer | Februaryto2018 • Wanted in Rome between campuses on a per term or per year basis, experiencing the same programme in multiple international contexts

62 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

63 | February 2018 • Wanted in Rome

38

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

FEBRUARY 18 -18 MARCH 3 3 FEBRUARY - MARCH TEATRO COSTANZI TEATRO COSTANZI CONDUCTOR CONDUCTOR

SPERANZA SCAPPUCCI SPERANZA SCAPPUCCI DIRECTOR DIRECTOR

VINCENZO BELLINI VINCENZO BELLINI

la lasonnambula sonnambula

GIORGIO BARBERIO GIORGIO BARBERIO CORSETTI CORSETTI ORCHESTRA ANDAND CHORUS ORCHESTRA CHORUS OF THE TEATRO OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEWNEW PRODUCTION PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH IN COPRODUCTION WITH TEATRO PETRUZZELLI DI BARI TEATRO PETRUZZELLI DI BARI

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Y

CM

MY

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CONDUCTOR CONDUCTOR

PIETRO RIZZO PIETRO RIZZO DIRECTOR DIRECTOR

la latraviata traviata

SOFIA COPPOLA SOFIA COPPOLA ORCHESTRA, CHORUS ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION PRODUCTION

FEBRUARY 25 FEBRUARY 25 TEATRO NAZIONALE TEATRO NAZIONALE DIRECTOR DIRECTOR

FABIO CHERSTICH FABIO CHERSTICH SET, COSTUME COSTUME ANDSET, VIDEO DESIGN AND VIDEO DESIGN

GIANLUIGI TOCCAFONDO GIANLUIGI TOCCAFONDO “FABBRICA” “FABBRICA” YOUNG ARTIST PROGRAM YOUNG PROGRAM AND YOUTHARTIST ORCHESTRA ANDTEATRO YOUTH DELL’OPERA ORCHESTRA OF THE OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

DI ROMA

figaro! figaro!

eraera OpO pn io Cam Camion

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo and David Downton

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GIUSEPPE VERDI GIUSEPPE VERDI

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo and David Downton

FEBRUARY 24 - MARCH 4 FEBRUARY 24 - MARCH 4 TEATRO COSTANZI TEATRO COSTANZI

A R R E T L I H G N I S V A ITALI DOMENICA 4 FEBBRAIO ORE 16.00

In diretta su DMAX - CANALE 52

A I Z O C S S ITALIA V SABATO 17 MARZO ORE 13.30

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ROMA STADIO OLIMPICO

CANALE 52

Wanted in Rome JAN2018.indd 1

13/12/17 15:36