Wanted in Rome - December 2018

Passaggio prioritario ai varchi di sicurezza

Parcheggio sicuro e videosorvegliato

Esclusivi menu stellati a condizioni riservate

Accesso ai Terminal veloce e coperto

Tanti servizi per la tua auto e attenzioni per te

SCONTO

15% SCOPRI GLI ESCLUSIVI PARCHEGGI DELL’AEROPORTO DI FIUMICINO.

Scegli il comfort dei parcheggi Executive e presenta la tua WIR Card all’operatore per avere uno sconto del 15%.

Lo sconto del 15% si applica alla tariffa di sosta standard (sono escluse le soste prenotate online, il lavaggio e gli altri servizi a pagamento).

Lo sconto, non cumulabile con altre iniziative e promozioni in corso, è valido fino al 31.12.2018.

Scopri di più su www.wantedinrome.com

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 10, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2018 € 2,00

Accesso e pagamento con Telepass

WHAT'S+

ON

WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

11

Wanted in Rome 2018-19.qxp_Dicembre doppia 2018 15/11/18 10:01 Pagina 1

FEBRUARY 18 - MARCH 3 TEATRO COSTANZI CONDUCTOR

SPERANZA SCAPPUCCI DIRECTOR

GIUSEPPE VERDI

GIORGIO BARBERIO TEATRO COSTANZI CORSETTI DECEMBER 7, 12, 14, 16

i masnadieri

DECEMBER 2, 4, 6, 9, 11, 13, 15, 18

CONDUCTOR

ROBERTO ABBADO DIRECTOR gIusePPe

verdI

la sonnambula

ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO gIacomo PuccINI DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

MASSIMO POPOLIZIO

tosca

Rigoletto

NEW PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH TEATRO PETRUZZELLI DI BARI

ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

CONDUCTOR daNIele gattI

CONDUCTOR stefaNo raNzaNI

DIRECTOR daNIele abbado

DIRECTOR alessaNdro talevI

NEW PRODUCTION

C

NEW PRODUCTION FEBRUARY 1, 3 TEATRO COSTANZI

SOIRÉE FRANÇAISE

ORCHESTRA, ÉTOILE, PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

M

SUITE EN BLANC MUSIC BY

CONDUCTOR CHOREOGRAPHY REVIVED BY WITH

Y

ÉDOUARD LALO EXCERPTS FROM “NAMOUNA” CARLO DONADIO SERGE LIFAR CLAUDE BESSY

ELEONORA ABBAGNATO

MY

CY

CMY

K

PINK flOYD BALLET

la traviata

DIRECTOR A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

SOFIA COPPOLA

ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

TEATRO COSTANZI DECEMBER 28,DI29, 30, 31 - JANUARY 3, 4, 5, 6 A TEATRO DELL’OPERA ROMA PRODUCTION

Pëtr Il’Ič čajkovskIj

THE PINK FLOYD ROLAND PETIT LUIGI BONINO

MUSIC BY (ON RECORDED BASIS) REVIVED BY

PIETRO RIZZO

CM

JANUARY 28, FEBRUARY 3 (8:00 PM)

BALLET BY

orchestra aNd4 chorus FEBRUARY 24 - MARCH of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma TEATRO COSTANZI wIth the PartecIPatIoN of the boys choIr CONDUCTOR of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma

GIUSEPPE VERDI

orchestra aNd chorus of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma

swan lake

FEBRUARY 25 TEATRO NAZIONALE DIRECTOR

FABIO CHERSTICH

figaro!

SET,CONDUCTOR COSTUME AND VIDEO DESIGN

NIr kabarettI CHOREOGRAPHY beNjamIN Pech

GIANLUIGI TOCCAFONDO

orchestra aNd corPs de ballet

operaroma.it operaroma.it

FOUNDERS FOUNDERS

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

PATRONS AUTOMOTIVE PARTNER

MEDIA SPONSOR

“FABBRICA” of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma YOUNG ARTIST PROGRAM AND YOUTH ORCHESTRA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

Opera Camion

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo and David Downton Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations

by Gianluigi Toccafondo

FEBRUARY 2, 4 TEATRO COSTANZI TEATRO COSTANZI

VINCENZO BELLINI

TEATRO COSTANZI DECEMBER 7, 12, 14, 16

gIacomo PuccINI

tosca

CONDUCTOR stefaNo raNzaNI DIRECTOR alessaNdro talevI orchestra aNd chorus of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma

wIth the PartecIPatIoN of the boys choIr of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma

TEATRO COSTANZI DECEMBER 28, 29, 30, 31 - JANUARY 3, 4, 5, 6

Pëtr Il’Ič čajkovskIj

swan lake

CONDUCTOR NIr kabarettI CHOREOGRAPHY beNjamIN Pech orchestra aNd corPs de ballet of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION MEDIA SPONSOR

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo

A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

CONT E

EDITORIALS

4. remembering

milton gendel peter benson miller

9. patrick pistolesi: ROme’s cocKtail king andy devane

13. luke wadding and his rome legacy Mícheál Mac Craith

MISCELLANY

16.

20.

22.

26.

50.

52.

55.

56.

59.

60.

62.

NEXT PUBLICATION AND CLASSIFIED DATES Next publication dates are 7 Jan and 1 Feb. Classified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 19 Dec (for 7 Jan) and 16 Jan (for 1 Feb).

However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425.

Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131del 6/3/1985.

Finito di stampare il 01/12/2018

WHAT’S ON

cultural academies TO DO CALENDAR MUSEUMS ART GALLERIES CULTURAL VENUES WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR RECIPE STREET ART guide PUNTARELLA ROSSA CLASSIFIEDs USEFUL NUMBERS

APRIL 2017 € 2,00

31.

36.

38.

41.

41.

42.

43.

44.

47.

47.

48.

EXHIBITIONS art news CLASSICAL ROCK, pop, JAZZ SPORT festivals DANCE OPERA academies theatre churches

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84 Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102 Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49

Wanted in R Via di Monserrato 49 - tel/fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com editorial@wantedinrome.com www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedinmilan.com URE T

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 4

Vultux Est Index Animi by Seth From the exhibition Range Ta Chambre Until 24 December at Dorothy Circus Gallery Via dei Pettinari 76, www.dorothycircusgallery.it.

See page 31 for details.

T ENTS

ndo 84 a Vite 102 49

967

4

remembering milton gendel

9

20 TO DO CALENDAR

patrick pistolesi: rome’s cocktail king

42 festivals

Art

REMEMBERING MILTON GENDEL THE AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME HELD A TRIBUTE TO MILTON GENDEL IN NOVEMBER

Peter Benson Miller

M

Monica Incisa, Portrait of Milton Gendel, 2018, pencil drawing on rag paper, after a photograph by Enrico Petrelli.

ilton Gendel, who died on 11 October, two months short of his 100th birthday, exerted an indelible impact on the cultural relations between Italy and the United States for almost 70 years, particularly during the post-war period. He called himself an American “outpost” in Rome, but he was perennially closer to the action than this characteristically understated term suggests.

Through perceptive, unbiased art criticism and suave cultural diplomacy, Gendel explained developments in Italian contemporary art to the American readers of ArtNews and Art in America, and introduced American artists, curators, patrons and other visitors to respective counterparts in Italy.

His various well-appointed Roman apartments were lively points of entry for many visitors. The experiences of countless legendary American artists in Rome, including Mark Rothko, Willem De Kooning and Alexander Calder, were marked by Gendel’s hospitality.

Above all, his photographic archive of over 70,000 negatives, now conserved at the Fondazione Primoli in Rome, offers an unparalleled and often witty record of cultural life in Italy and its dramatic transformation in the second half of the 20th century. There are scenes of religious processions, the Tiber flooding its banks, classical sculptures shrouded in plastic in 4 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

the entrance of the Galleria Borghese as the building was undergoing restoration, portraits of vendors at Porta Portese and many other memorable traces of the city and its inhabitants.

Gendel was also a master portraitist, capturing complex personalities, including Salvador Dalí, Leo Castelli, Alighiero Boetti, Iris Origo and Peggy Guggenheim, among others, in nuanced, visually compelling photographs.

Gendel arrived in Italy in late December 1949 as a Fulbright fellow and quickly made his name in advanced Italian cultural circles. Possessed of a good ear for

Art languages, preternatural charm and a mind that distrusted easy answers, Gendel cut a dashing figure in post-war Rome.

One of the first photographs he took with his Rolleiflex after his arrival depicts his own attenuated shadow projected on the ground near the Via Appia Antica. Like many foreign visitors to the Eternal City, he paid his respects to one of Rome’s most famous monuments from antiquity, but the image also evokes the ominous shadows in Giorgio de Chirico’s metaphysical paintings.

Taken up by arts patron and founder of the Galleria La Cometa Maria Laetizia “Mimì” Pecci-Blunt, Gendel gained entrée to the epicentre of international literary and artistic avant-garde activity in the Italian capital. At the same time, novelist Sybille Bedford remembered Gendel in her memoir Quicksands (2005) as both “intelligent… in a laid-back, laconic, self-assured, non-showoff way,” and a quintessentially practicalminded American. When Bedford moved into her antiquated walk-up apartment on the top floor of a commercial building near the Piazza di Spagna in the early 1950s, Gendel, worried about the makeshift electric lights, took charge of the situation. “With coils, plugs, wire and on his part a good deal of manual expertise,” he “managed to create a simple, safe, efficient system of electric light indoors.”

he filled with paintings, furniture and objects, many of them found at the Porta Portese flea market in its heyday. Among his earliest acquaintances were the young international-minded abstract artists, Piero Dorazio, Mino Guerrini and Achille Perilli, founders of Forma I, a group promoting abstract painting and sculpture in the face of considerable opposition mounted by powerful left-wing cultural officials.

Gendel went on to become a key interpreter of their platform and that of several other artists. He helped the American painter Frances McCann found the Rome New York Art Foundation, an unorthodox gallery located in floor below the apartment on the Tiber Island that he shared with his second wife Judy Montagu, who was the link between Gendel and the British Royal family. Through nine exhibitions between 1957 and 1961, critics such as Lionello Venturi, James Johnson Sweeney, Herbert Read and Michel Tapié presented various currents in international abstraction. The exhibitions not only played a decisive role in the diffusion of American art in Europe; they served as catalysts for a universalising spirit in contemporary art.

He showed his pragmatism in other ways as well. In the 1980s, he dedicated considerable effort to creating a Tiber Island History Museum in the Palazzo Pierleoni Caetani, conceiving the project, choosing objects, gathering influential sponsors and working with city officials to establish the institution. Through no fault of Gendel’s, and despite its abundant merits and approval from the municipal government, the museum, which aimed to recount the history of Rome through that of the Tiber Island from antiquity to the present, remains unrealised.

Immediately recognised as a lightning rod for avant-garde ideas and the changes transforming Italian society, the Rome New York Art Foundation was the setting of one of the opening scenes of Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1960 film L’avventura, starring Monica Vitti, Lea Massari and Gabriele Ferzetti. As she waits for her friends dallying in Gendel’s apartment in the floor above, Vitti walks through the exhibition Moments of Vision, overhearing snippets of conversations in American-accented English in the background. While he never produced the single, defining work that many expected of him, Gendel’s career as a photographer, journalist and art critic provides unparalleled insight into a fertile and tumultuous time of artistic and cultural exchange.

In the early years, eschewing the neighbourhoods favoured by other Americans, he found an apartment in Via di Monserrato, the first of a series of grand living spaces and offices that

His emergence as a key Roman “outpost” is all the more extraordinary given that he might never have ended up in Rome at all.

His original intention, when he received the Fulbright, was to go to China, where he had 5 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Art spent the final months of world war two, teaching himself how to take photographs with a borrowed Leica. The Communist government under Mao closed the borders to foreigners, foiling his plans, and Gendel opted instead for Italy. That he remained in Rome the rest of his life was largely the result of a series of coincidences. Thanks to Cipriana Scelba, the president of the Centro Studi Americani, Gendel met the architect Bruno Zevi, who introduced him to Adriano Olivetti. Zevi provided helpful advice as Gendel developed his study about architecture in Rome following the unification of Italy.

techniques to a wide range of artists.

Gendel and Hayter worked together on a project drawing on theories of perception and abstract motifs to develop camouflage systems for wartime defence, another sign of Gendel’s creative pragmatism.

To return the favour, and to improve his Italian, Gendel translated Zevi’s classic Saper Vedere l’Architettura into English (as Architecture as Space). Olivetti, in turn, hired him as his “English-language man” to write speeches and press releases aimed at American circles suspicious of Olivetti’s “socialist” ideas. In the summer of 1954, only a few years after arriving in Italy, Gendel put the finishing touches to the translation of Zevi’s book, turned in an article about Alberto Burri’s new work published later the same year in ArtNews, and consulted with Olivetti on various fronts. To this day, “Burri Makes a Picture,” which traces the evolution of a single work of art, one of the artist’s “Sacchi”, remains an essential text for Burri scholars.

His art criticism, analysed in a recent book

by Barbara Drudi, demonstrates none of the ideological intransigence or nationalistic bias common to the writing of many of his contemporaries on both sides of the Atlantic1. As an agile interpreter of art and society, and chronicler of the cosmopolitan vibrancy in post-war Rome, Gendel personified a universal, humanist spirit that appears all the more important to safeguard today.

Gendel’s outlook owed a great deal to his experience in New York in the early 1940s.

After studying with art historian Meyer Schapiro at Columbia, where his classmate was Robert Motherwell, Gendel gravitated to the group of Surrealist exiles around André Breton, who had been airlifted out of Europe to escape the advance of Hitler’s army.

In volume three of her diary, Anaïs Nin describes parties at Gendel’s apartment on Washington Square and their colourful guests. As they came and went, they would have seen a large painting, Parturition, by the British artist Stanley William Hayter hanging in the main reception room. Hayter moved Atelier 17, the printmaking studio he founded in Paris, to New York where he taught his spontaneous and innovative 6 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

An irreverent Surrealist sense of humour permeates many of Gendel’s photographs.

While he is too often pegged as a society photographer, particularly of the British Royal family, his best work has the formal rigour, wells of feeling, and insight into human nature that are the trademarks of great photography.

Peter Benson Miller is the Andrew Heiskell Arts Director at the American Academy in Rome.

1 Barbara Drudi, Milton Gendel. Uno scatto lungo un secolo.

Gli anni tra New York e Roma, 1940-1962 (Quodlibet, 2017). See also Peter Benson Miller and Barbara Drudi, ed. Milton Gendel. A Surreal Life (Hatje Cantz, 2011).

Judy Montagu in Vincent van Gogh’s Madhouse, Arles, 1964, by Milton Gendel.

History

7 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Entertainment

PATRICK PISTOLESI: ROME’S COCKTAIL KING HOW AN IRISH-ITALIAN IS AT THE FOREFRONT IN THE CHANGING FACE OF ROME’S BAR SCENE

Andy Devane Patrick Pistolesi mixing drinks at Drink Kong. Photos by Leon Perez.

A

ffable and imposing in equal measure, Patrick Pistolesi has a commanding presence.

Just turned 40, he is already a legendary figure in Rome’s burgeoning cocktail scene, as well as being a bartender of international standing. Over the last decade the capital’s nightlife has witnessed a sea-change, evolving from wine bars and Irish pubs to embrace that more discerning creature – the cocktail bar – with Pistolesi recognised as leading the charge.

As his name might suggest, Pistolesi shares his heritage between Italy and Ireland; his father is from Rome, his mother from Dublin. He spent his first 18 summers with family in Midleton, a market town in Ireland’s south-east county of Cork.

Flanked by mischievous older cousins, the teenage Pistolesi would sneak into the

town’s pubs for “the odd glass of beer”.

It proved to be a formative experience, his future lighting up before his eyes. He remembers with nostalgia the admiration he had for Midleton’s bartenders who were “responsible for everyone’s recreation”, fulfilling a role somewhere between a conductor in an orchestra and a ringmaster in a circus.

A quarter of a century later, with numerous accolades and pioneering projects in the drinks industry behind him, Pistolesi is celebrating his recent opening of Drink Kong, a refreshingly original cocktail bar in central Rome. The venue – a former bicycle shop in Piazza S. Martino ai Monti – sits in the shadow of the 12th-century Torre dei Capocci. Minimal and bespoke, the bar’s design evokes the cult science fiction movie Blade Runner merged with elements of Japanese traditional and popular culture.

9 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Entertainment drinks. Despite his international reputation, he instantly shrugs off the “celebrity” tag, stating that he has got to where he is today by hard work and study as well as making mistakes along the way.

It could be in New York, London or Tokyo.

Instead it is in the area of Rome where Monti meets the Esquilino.

Wide open doors lead directly to Drink Kong’s bar whose vast display of glowing coloured bottles against mirrored shelves draws the visitor in like a magnet. The 300-sqm venue is divided into four separate spaces, including a softly-lit lounge fronting onto Via di S. Martino ai Monti, and the Jungle Room, which hosts live rock, jazz and soul music, and faces onto Via Giovanni Lanza. However, it is the little room hidden directly behind the bar that is the most intriguing, and impressive.

Decorated with polished Japanese cherrywood panelling, the silent Omakase Room has a wall containing caged alcoves housing rare whisky and sake, available exclusively to customers holding a key (on prior arrangement with Pistolesi), with ten seats for privately-booked tastings or master classes with a dedicated bartender.

Strategically-placed red, green and purple neon lights illuminate the black and white chequered floor leading to a futuristic bathroom whose mirrors provide infinite reflections. In the corridor along the way are arcade-style pinball machines. But what about the venue’s unusual name? Pistolesi grins. An old King Kong-related moniker attached to the bar’s broad-chested front man.

Pulling up a barstool before launching into the Saturday night “inferno”, Pistolesi sits down to answer questions about his career in mixology, the in-depth study of mixing 10 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

He is candid about his beginnings as a 19-year-old novice who accepted a summer job making cocktails at a festival near Rome’s Stadio Olimpico at short notice. His only bar experience until then had been serving tables at The Shamrock on Via Capo d’Africa. Terrified, he engaged the help of a bartender friend who let him shadow her every move as he scribbled down the recipes for each cocktail to learn by heart.

Two days later a nervous, sleep-deprived Pistolesi showed up for work at the festival’s cocktail bar. “I remember being lost,” he admits. “I thought the gin inside the Bombay Sapphire bottle was blue.” It was baptism by fire. His first cocktail, a Piña Colada, was “terrible” as he was taught to make it with Malibu instead of rum. Staring at the customer, willing him to like the drink, he still recalls the feeling of “flying” on receiving a favourable response.

As Pistolesi chats, he is greeted constantly by customers whose salutations he reciprocates warmly – the consummate barman, even while off duty. When speaking English, his accent is a mixture of Irish, Italian and international but his banter is peppered with Irish colloquialisms. The drinks prepared by his expert team at Drink Kong are elegant and presented with finesse, served with Japanese nibbles on the side. It is a far cry from the Rome of Pistolesi’s youth, when cocktails were generally handed out in plastic cups at discos.

In the internet-free days of the late 1990s, when Pistolesi began to hone his craft seriously, he would ask friends to look out for any cocktail-related books they could find while abroad. He started undertaking master classes in mixology all around the world and to his delight found himself part of a global movement “exploding” around him.

Pistolesi began making a name for himself in Rome while fronting Barnum, which opened on Via del Pellegrino in 2009. On

Entertainment the back of this experience, in 2013 he was pivotal in launching The Gin Corner, Italy’s first bar dedicated solely to gin, at the Hotel Adriano in Rome’s historic centre. Its impact on the Italian bar scene was significant and led to the opening of numerous monobrand or themed bars elsewhere in Italy.

In recent years, Pistolesi and his disciples also galvanised the cult cocktail reputation of Caffè Propaganda, near the Colosseum.

The advent of cocktail culture has shaken up the capital’s nightlife in a similar, albeit classier, way that Irish pubs did in the 1990s. Pistolesi reserves praise for two of Rome’s historic Irish bars – the Fiddler’s Elbow and Druid’s Den – both of which are located a stone’s throw from Drink Kong.

He and his fellow mixologists frequented these establishments growing up, and all “served their time” pulling pints in Irish pubs before ascending to a higher level of bartending.

Over the last decade, Rome has also embraced speakeasies – prohibition-era style “hidden” cocktail bars which require passwords, phone-calls or secret knocks to gain entry. However when Pistolesi opened Drink Kong, alongside his four other ownerpartners, he eschewed the distractions associated with theme bars. “I wanted to create a place that would be a cocktail bar and nothing else.”

More than anything else, Pistolesi says, his multi-faceted venue is an “instinct” bar:

customers are asked if they prefer a bitter, dry or sweet taste. A drink is prepared accordingly, with the additional option of ordering some of the internationallyinspired tapas from chef Marco Morello.

Specialties include Scandinavian smørrebrød (buttered rye bread stuffed with herring, salmon or vegetables), vegan dumplings with bao (steamed Chinese bread) or the more local option of “km-0” salumi e formaggi.

Pistolesi, who over the years has worked as cocktail ambassador for Jameson Irish Whiskey, says he entered the drinks business initially as “the bar equals fun and equals youth – it’s a perfect match.” However, despite all the fun there are disadvantages to orchestrating nightly parties. In addition to the unsociable hours – “we work while people are hanging out” – he says that “mornings don’t exist and Monday-Tuesday is our weekend.”

He is philosophical about the role of the bar in society, describing it as “the least racist space on the planet.” Motioning to the myriad of bottles from all over the world, Pistolesi sees the bar as a great leveller between people. “Bartenders are the last aristocrats of the working class,” he states; “we talk to the prime minister and to the beggar, it’s all the same to me.”

Drink Kong is open every day except Monday from 18.30 until 02.00. Piazza di S. Martino ai Monti 8, tel. 0623488666.

The Omakase Room at Drink Kong.

11 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

History

LUKE WADDING AND HIS ROME LEGACY THE FOUNDER OF ST ISIDORE’S COLLEGE ARRIVED IN ROME 400 YEARS AGO THIS MONTH

L

uke Wadding, an Irish Franciscan priest, arrived in Rome on 17 December 1618.

He came as theological adviser to a royal delegation sent by Philip III of Spain to convince Pope Paul V of the need to define the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception.* Born in the southern Irish city of Waterford in 1588, Wadding departed for Lisbon in 1602. After a short spell in Lisbon’s Irish College, which had been established in

Portrait of Luke Wadding by Carlo Maratta, collection National Gallery of Ireland.

Mícheál Mac Craith 1590 to train diocesan priests, Wadding joined the Franciscans and was ordained a priest in 1613. His arrival in Rome five years later must have seemed like the pinnacle of his career to the young friar. However, Wadding’s career was really only starting.

Though the Spanish royal delegation failed in its mission and its members returned to Spain, Wadding was to remain in Rome for the rest of his life, rendering sterling service to his order, country and the universal church.

Residing in the Spanish Franciscan convent of S. Pietro in Montorio on the Janiculum, Wadding was commissioned in 1619 to undertake a history of the Franciscan order, leading to the publication of eight volumes of the Annales Minorum between 1625 and 1654, a work that covered the history of the order from the birth of St Francis in 1182 until 1540.

Wadding’s interest in Franciscan history went back a long way. During his early years in Spain he had been stung by an account of a sermon where the preacher said that he loved learned saints but had no devotion to simpletons like St Francis of Assisi. Even during Wadding’s novitiate, a well-meaning friend wrote to him deploring the fact that he was burying his talents in an order that had shown no aptitude for scholarship. These misguided comments provoked a powerful reaction in the young Irishman, and he resolved to spend his life demonstrating both the positive attitude of St Francis to learning and the learned tradition developed by his order. Little 13 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

History wonder then that his first major work was a critical edition of the writings of St Francis, published in Antwerp in 1623.

In 1622 a group of Spanish discalced Franciscans founded the convent of S. Isidoro where it still stands, not far from Trinità dei Monti. They encountered a number of difficulties, however, and were soon forced to abandon their uncompleted and debt-ridden home. Wadding stepped into the breach, offering to take over S. Isidoro on condition that he could turn it into a seminary to train young Irish Franciscans for priestly service on the home mission in Ireland. The new community took up residence in 1625. Setting about his new task with energy and enthusiasm, within five years Wadding was able to collect 22,000 scudi from wealthy benefactors, including Pope Urban VIII, the Spanish ambassador and a number of Hispanophile cardinals. This enabled him to pay off the debts accumulated by the previous Spanish incumbents, complete the church and enlarge the original convent from one that housed 12 friars to one that was capable of hosting 60 people.

St Isidore’s remains an international research centre for Franciscan studies.

14 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Wadding also founded the Pontifical Irish College in Rome in 1628 for the training of Irish diocesan clergy. He followed this up in 1656 with the foundation of an Irish Franciscan novitiate in Capranica, about 70kms north-west of Rome, which remained open until 1983. During his historical research, Wadding managed to build up a library of 5,000 volumes, not to mention a great quantity of precious manuscripts. This library at St Isidore’s remains to this day an indispensable tool for researching early Franciscan history.

With the aid of his Spanish patrons, Wadding hired the best Roman artists of the time to decorate the college church. In 1626 he commissioned Andrea Sacchi to paint the altarpiece for the college church.

Giovan Pietro Bellori, the great art theorist of his age, was apostolic syndic (in charge of St Isidore’s financial dealings) from 1653 to 1684 and, encouraged by Wadding, he grasped the opportunity to use the church as a laboratory for putting his aesthetic ideas into practice.

History Yet, despite his patronage of Roman artists, Wadding never forgot his Irish roots. At his insistence, St Patrick was included in the new universal calendar of the Church that was drawn up circa 1630. Henceforth St Patrick was a saint whose feast-day had to be celebrated all over the world.

Francis Harold, Wadding’s nephew and biographer, said that St Patrick’s Day was celebrated with particular solemnity in St Isidore’s and it is scarcely an exaggeration to say that it was here that St Patrick’s Day first became Ireland’s national festival. The distinctive Irish character of St Isidore’s was proclaimed in the portico of the church. On each side of the main entrance there are life-size murals of Patrick and Bridget, Ireland’s principal patron saints.

The presentation of Ireland as a country with its own saints and its own language was a powerful demonstration of national identity, announcing to the citizens of Rome that the Irish had come to town.

Wadding always retained an interest in the subject that brought him to Rome in the first place: the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception. In 1639 he published the complete works of John Duns Scotus in Lyons in 16 volumes. Scotus was the mediaeval Franciscan who first developed the doctrine of the Immaculate Conception.

Under Wadding’s direction, St Isidore’s not only became an important location for the training of young Irish Franciscans, but also the leading European centre for Scotistic studies in the 17th century. By the time of Wadding’s death in 1657, in addition to educating over 200 Irish Franciscans, the college had supplied 70 professors in Scotistic philosophy and theology to universities all over Europe.

When war broke out in Ireland in 1641 between the English and the Irish, the supreme council of the Irish Catholic Confederates appointed Wadding as their agent in Rome, supplying arms and ammunition to aid the struggle against the English administration and military. He also prevailed on Pope Innocent X to send GianBattista Rinuccini to Ireland as papal nuncio (ambassador) in 1645. Rinuccini,

however, was not astute enough to deal with the complex Irish situation.

The nuncio’s mission was little short of a disaster, with Wadding himself taking some of the blame. Seen by Rinuccini’s supporters from Gaelic Ulster as pandering to the interests of anglicised members of the Leinster and Munster elites, Wadding became a source of contention not only in Ireland but also amongst the members of his own Franciscan community in St Isidore’s.

Wadding’s involvement in the French Jansenist controversy about original sin, grace and predestination was to cause him yet him more grief. Determined as he was to ensure that Jansen’s views got a fair hearing in Rome before the pope pronounced on their orthodoxy, Wadding nonetheless acquiesced to the papal condemnation in 1653. Just like the Irish situation in the 1640s, Wadding’s attempts at being evenhanded only drew upon himself the wrath of both sides. These two issues, far removed from the world of scholarship where he felt most at home, blighted the years leading up to his death in 1657.

Four centuries after his arrival in Rome, Wadding would surely be pleased to know that young Irish Franciscans continue to be trained in St Isidore’s. He would equally be pleased to know that the college also functions as an international research centre for Franciscan studies. St Isidore’s also welcomes Irish couples travelling to Rome to get married as well as hosting the St Patrick’s Day Mass for the city’s Irish community.

Fr Mícheál Mac Craith OFM is the former Guardian of St Isidore’s College on Via degli Artisti 18. The church is open for Sunday Mass each week at 10.00. For information see website www.stisidoresrome.com. *The doctrine of the Immaculate Conception was only pronounced as infallible papal dogma two and a half centuries later in 1854. It is still celebrated as an official feast day by the Roman Catholic Church on 8 December.

15 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

shortguide guideto tosome some of the A Ashort the most most importantinternational international cultural important Cultural academiesin in Rome Rome representing Academies representing countriesfrom fromaround around the the world countries world in the Eternal City. in the Eternal city.

Cultural Cultural Academies Academies

AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and independent study in the arts and humanities. Via Angelo AMERICAN IN ROME Masina 5,ACADEMY tel. 065810788, www.aarome.org.

The American Academy in Rome works to promote research and AUSTRIANstudy CULTURAL independent in theFORUM arts and humanities. Via Angelo The5,Austrian Cultural www.aarome.org.

Forum hosts events dedicated to the Masina tel. 065810788,

history and culture of Austria. Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel.

AUSTRIAN CULTURAL FORUM 063608371, www.austriacult.roma.it.

The BELGIAN Austrian ACADEMY Cultural Forum hosts events dedicated to the history culture of Austria.

Bruno Buozzi relations 113, tel.

The and Belgian Academy facilitatesViale scientific and cultural 063608371, betweenwww.austriacult.roma.it.

Italy and Belgium by sponsoring researchers and artists in Italy.ACADEMY Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889, www.academiabelgica.it.

BELGIAN The BRITISH Belgian Academy COUNCILfacilitates scientific and cultural relations between and Council Belgium by sponsoring and artists The Italy British promotes the researchers English language and appreciation in Italy the UK’s creative ideas and achievemenin Italy.

Via Omero 8, tel.of063201889, www.academiabelgica.it. ts. Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141, www.britishcouncil.it.

BRITISH COUNCIL ROME the English language and The BRITISH British SCHOOL Council AT promotes The British Rome brings scholars, researchers appreciation in School Italy ofatthe UK’s creative ideasartists, and achievemenanddi S. architects from 16, Britain to createwww.britishcouncil.it. a cultural exchange ts. Via Sebastianello tel. 06478141, between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939,

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME www.bsr.ac.uk.

The British School at Rome brings scholars, artists, researchers and architects 16 | Decfrom 2018 •Britain Wantedtoincreate Rome a cultural exchange between Britain and Italy. Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

• |4 Wanted Rome 2017 16 |in Oct 2018 • april Wanted in Rome

E T c d

F T a T

G T a M

G T a A

G T c w

H T e G

IN In th 16

CASA DI GOETHE Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe offers exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. Via CASA DI 18, GOETHE del Corso tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

IT T c L 0

CENTRE CULTURELand SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE offers exhibitions cultural events throughout the year. Via The centre18,offers cultural events such as film screenings, del Corso tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it. lectures, debates and theatre. Largo Toniolo 20, tel. 066802629, CENTRE CULTUREL SAINT-LOUIS DE FRANCE www.ifcsl.com.

JA T a 0

Rome’s museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

The centre offers cultural events such as film screenings,

CENTRO CULTURAL BRASIL-ITALIA lectures, theatre.

Largo Toniolo 20, tel.

The centredebates offers and courses of Brazilian Portuguese and066802629, samba www.ifcsl.com. and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on Brazilian and BRASIL-ITALIA screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza CENTROliterature CULTURAL Navona 18, offers tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/iThe centre courses of Brazilian Portuguese and samba t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml. and hosts meetings with writers and filmmakers, conferences on DANISH BrazilianACADEMY literature and screenings of Brazilian movies. Piazza The Danish18, Academy is an institution that offers support to Danish Navona tel. 0668398284, www.roma.itamaraty.gov.br/iartists in Rome. Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk. t/centro_cultural_brasil-italia.xml.

DUTCH DANISHINSTITUTE ACADEMY The offers for students and researchers The Dutch DanishInstitute Academy is ancourses institution that offers support to Danish and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via artists in Rome.

Via Omero 18, tel.

063265931, ww.dkinst-rom.dk.

Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it.

DUTCH INSTITUTE The Dutch Institute offers courses for students and researchers and serves as a bridge between Dutch universities and Italy. Via Omero 10, tel. 063269621, www.knir.it.

STUDY ABROAD OR EARN YOUR

BACHELOR’S DEGREE IN ROME, ITALY

MAJOR FIELDS OF STUDY • ART HISTORY

• HUMANISTIC STUDIES

• BUSINESS ADMINISTRATION • INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS • CLASSICAL STUDIES

• INTERNATIONAL BUSINESS

• COMMUNICATIONS

• ITALIAN STUDIES

• ECONOMICS AND FINANCE

• MARKETING

• ENGLISH LITERATURE

• POLITICAL SCIENCE

• HISTORY

www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

Via della Lungara, 233 00165 Rome, Italy +39 066819121

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African culture and art to Italy. Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org.

EGYPTIAN ACADEMY EGYPTIAN ACADEMY FRENCH ACADEMY The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African The Egyptian Academy brings Arabian, Egyptian and African The French Academy at Villa Medici artists from France culture and art to Italy.

Via Omero 4,hosts tel. 063201896, www.accaculture and art to Italy.

Via Omero 4, tel.

063201896, www.accademiaegitto.org. and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout the year. Viale demiaegitto.org.

Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY FRENCH ACADEMY The French Academy GERMAN ACADEMY at Villa Medici hosts artists from France and provides exhibitions and festivals throughout thefrom year.

Viale TheGerman French Academy at Villa Mediciartists, hosts artists France The Academy offers German writers, musicians Trinità dei exhibitions Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it. and provides and festivals throughout the year.

Viale and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it.

GERMAN ACADEMY Massimo 1, tel.

064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de.

KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE KEATS-SHELLEY MEMORIAL HOUSE NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets Museum to theShelley lives of three Romantic Norwegian in Rome offers undergraduate and –The John Keats,dedicated PercyInstitute Bysshe and LordEnglish Byron.

Piazza di poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Piazza Spagna 26, tel.

066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it. graduate courses in art history, ancient studies and Italian.

Vialedi Spagna tel.

30 Aprile26, 33,INSTITUTE tel.066784235,www.keats-shelley-house.it.

0658391007, www.hf.uio.no.

NORWEGIAN NORWEGIAN INSTITUTE The Norwegian Institute in Rome offers undergraduate and POLISH CULTURAL INSTITUTE graduate courses in art history, ancient studies Italian.

The Norwegian Institute in history Rome offers undergraduate and Institution dedicated to Polish and and culture as Viale well as the 30graduate Aprile 33,courses tel. 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no. in art history, ancient studies and Italian.

Viale promotion of dialogue between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria 30 Aprile 33, 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. tel. INSTITUTE 0658391007, www.hf.uio.no.

POLISH CULTURAL Colonna 1, tel.

The German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians GERMAN ACADEMY GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE and architects the opportunity to study in Rome. Largo di Villa The institute German Academy offers German artists, writers, musicians This research into the history of Germany Massimo 1,conducts tel. 064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de. and architects the opportunity to in Rome.

Largo di Via Villa and Italy, in particular the relations study between both countries.

GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE Massimo 1, tel.

064425931, www.deutsche-kultur-international.de.

Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it.

This institute conducts research into the history of Germany GERMAN HISTORICAL INSTITUTE and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries. Via GOETHE INSTITUT ThisGoethe institute conducts research into the history of Germany Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it.

The Institut promotes education in Italy about German and Italy, in particular the relations between both countries.

Via culture, language and history.

Via Savoia 15, tel.

068440051, GOETHE INSTITUT Aurelia tel. promotes 066604921, www.dhi-roma.it. www.goethe.de.

The Antica Goethe 391, Institut education in Italy about German culture,INSTITUT language and history. Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051, GOETHE HUNGARIAN ACADEMY www.goethe.de.

The Goethe promotes education in Italy about literary German The AcademyInstitut of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, culture, language and history.

Via Savoia 15, tel.

068440051, HUNGARIAN ACADEMY events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via The Academy of Hungary in Rome hosts concerts, literary www.goethe.de.

Giulia 1, tel.

066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu. events and exhibitions by Hungarian artists and scholars. Via HUNGARIAN INSTITUTO Giulia 1, CERVANTES tel. ACADEMY 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

The Academy of Hungary in institution Rome hosts concerts, literary Instituto Cervantes is a cultural created to promote INSTITUTO CERVANTES events and of exhibitions

by Hungarian artistsVia anddischolars.

Via the teaching Spanish language and culture.

Villa Albani Instituto Cervantes is a cultural institution created to promote Giulia 1, tel. 066889671, www.roma.balassiintezet.hu.

16, tel. 068551949, www.cervantes.es.

Institution dedicated to Polish history and culture as well as the POLISHACADEMY CULTURAL INSTITUTE POLISH SCIENCE promotion of dialogue OF between Poland and Italy. Via Vittoria Institution dedicatedisto Polish history as well asand the The Polish a research centreand forculture the humanities Colonna 1, tel.Academy 0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it.

INSTITUTO CERVANTES 16, tel.

068551949, www.cervantes.es.

ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA Instituto Cervantes is aFOR cultural to into promote The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research the ITALIAN INSTITUTE LATINinstitution AMERICAcreated the The teaching of Spanish language culture.

Via di Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research intoAlbani the cultural, scientific, economic andand social aspects of Villa Italy and 16, tel.

068551949, www.cervantes.es. cultural, scientific, economic social aspects of Italy Latin American countries.

Viaand Giovanni Paisiello 24, and tel.

Latin American countries.

Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel.

06684921, www.iila.org.

ITALIAN INSTITUTE FOR LATIN AMERICA 06684921, www.iila.org.

The Italo-Latin American Institute facilitates research into the JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE cultural, scientific, economic and social aspects of Italy and The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural TheAmerican Japanese Cultural Institute hosts regular cultural events Latin countries.

Giovanni tel. events and also offers courses Via in Japanese.

ViaPaisiello Gramsci 24, 74, tel. and alsowww.iila.org. offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel.

06684921, 063224754, www.jfroma.it.

063224754, www.jfroma.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE The Japanese Cultural Institute hosts hosts regular cultural events and also offers courses in Japanese. Via Gramsci 74, tel.

063224754, www.jfroma.it.

The Swedish Institute a research STUDIES centre dedicated to scientiSWEDISH INSTITUTE OFisCLASSICAL holds events thatart provide aarchaeology. cultural Spain and fic research in Viabetween Omero 14, tel.

The Swedish Institute is a and research centre bridge dedicated to scientiItaly.

Piazzawww.isvroma.it.

Pietro Montorio 3, tel. fic research inS. art andin archaeology.

Via 065818607, Omero 14, www.raer.it. tel.

063201596, 063201596, www.isvroma.it.

SWEDISH INSTITUTE OF CLASSICAL STUDIES

the teaching of Spanish language and culture. Via di Villa Albani

of dialogue between Poland ViaDoria Vittoria apromotion scientific exchange between Poland and and Italy.Italy.

Vicolo 2,

POLISH ACADEMY OF SCIENCE Colonna 1, tel. www.accademiapolacca.it.

0636000723,www.istitutopolacco.it. tel.

066792170, The Polish Academy is a research centre for the humanities and POLISH exchange ACADEMY OF SCIENCE aROMANIAN scientific between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2, ACADEMY The Polish Academy is a research centre forpromotes the humanities and tel.

066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it.

The Romanian Academy hosts events and cultural

a scientific exchange between Poland and Italy. Vicolo Doria 2,

relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, ROMANIAN ACADEMY tel.Romanian 066792170, www.accademiapolacca.it. tel.

063201594, www.accadromania.it.

The Academy hosts events and promotes cultural relations between Romania and Italy. Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, ROMANIAN ACADEMY RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE AND LANGUAGE tel.The 063201594, www.accadromania.it.

Romanian Academy hosts events and promotes cultural The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and

relations between Romania andAND Italy.LANGUAGE Piazza Josè di S. Martin 1, RUSSIAN INSTITUTE OF CULTURE culture.

Via Farini 62, tel.

064870137.

The Institute provides classes in Russian language and tel.Russian 063201594, www.accadromania.it.

SPANISH ACADEMY culture.

Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137.

RUSSIAN OF CULTURE The SpanishINSTITUTE Academy hosts artists in AND manyLANGUAGE fields of study and

SPANISH ACADEMY The Russian Institute provides classes in Russian language and holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and The SpanishVia Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and culture.

Farini 62, tel.

064870137.

Italy.

Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel.

065818607, www.raer.it. holds events that provide a cultural bridge between Spain and SPANISH ACADEMY Italy.

Piazza S.INSTITUTE Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607, www.raer.it.

SWEDISH OF CLASSICAL STUDIES

The Spanish Academy hosts artists in many fields of study and

SWISS INSTITUTE

The Swiss Swedish Instituteoffers is a research centreevents dedicated scientiSWISS INSTITUTE The Institute exhibitions, andtoclasses The Institute offersand exhibitions, events and classes48, fic Swiss research art archaeology.

Via Omero 14, tel. tel. dedicated to thein culture of Switzerland.

Via Ludovisi dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel.

063201596, www.isvroma.it.

064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE The Swiss Institute offers exhibitions, events and classes dedicated to the culture of Switzerland. Via Ludovisi 48, tel.

064814234, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

19 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

19 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Wanted in Rome • april 2017 | 4

to do

Sat Sun Mon Tue 1

2

3

4

Stop by The Drunken Ship for food and drinks and get 20 per cent off the total bill with your WiR card.

Bring a visiting relative to the Picasso sculptures exhibited at Galleria Borghese but book in advance.

Venture into the often overlooked Domus Aurea, the buried golden palace of Emperor Nero.

Check out the limited edition street art prints – on sale – by Obey at Galleria Rossoventisette.

8

9

10

11

Go early to see Pope Francis mark the Immaculate Conception at Piazza Mignanelli near the Spanish Steps at 16.00.

Experience one of the most festive events on the expat calendar: the Irish College Advent service at 17.00.

Update your holiday look with salon services at Toni & Guy. WiR cardholders receive 15 per cent off.

Admire Renaissance-era weapons and armour on display at Castel S. Angelo.

15

16

17

18

Visit the exhibit Dream at Chiostro del Bramante. Use your WiR card for €2 ticket discount.

23

Admire Michelangelo's Crouching Boy at the new Fondazione Alda Fendi Esperimenti.

24

25

Look for unique last-minute Extra special Christmas gifts Attend the Christmas gifts at the Mercato Monti are waiting to be found at Midnight Mass at 21.30 in St which celebrates nine years Ponte Milvio antiques fair.

Peter’s Basilica. in business.

Celebrate Christmas Day Mass in English with the St Patrick’s American community at 09.00 or 10.30.

22 ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Kids can enjoy a special Order a Carbonara Sour at guided tour at the Audito- the hip Pigneto cocktail rium Parco Della Musica. bar Co.So. Reserve ahead!

29 Escape Rome and head to the relaxing hot springs of Saturnia in Tuscany.

30 Enjoy bespoke cocktails at Rome's coolest new cocktail bar, Drink Kong in Monti.

31 Ring in the new year in good shape by running through the city with We Run Rome.

W

Ren and wit

Ch illu Zer

See life the

Kid an Pre mo Co

4

d – at

1

ra on o.

8

o's w -

5

ass k’s 00

Wed Thu 5

6

Rent a scooter from Cooltra Sit in on the monthly and receive 30 per cent off Old-Time and Bluegrass with your WiR card. session at Chakra Bar in Trastevere.

12

13

Check out the underground Scholars Lounge Irish pub illustrations by comic artist hosts its annual Christmas Zerocalcare at MAXXI. party with live music until late.

19

20

Dec Fri 2018 7

Enjoy a vin brûlée while shopping in Piazza del Popolo’s Holiday Market this weekend.

14 Be enchanted by the beautifully-decorated Christmas tree in St Peter's Square.

21

See Roman history come to For elegant holiday Campo Felice begins its €4 life with the 3D Ara Come at decorations try Vertecchi, discount on lift tickets for the Ara Pacis museum. at locations around Rome. WiR cardholders.

26

Kids always enjoy the annual crib exhibition 100 Presepi which this year moves to Via della Conciliazione.

27 Catch The Harlem Gospel Choir as part of the Roma Gospel Festival at the Auditorium Parco della Musica.

28 Take a free guided tour of the gardens at Rome's Japanese Cultural Institute by booking in advance.

ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry.

For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel.

0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

STATE MUSEUMS

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Baths of Diocletian

Palazzo Corsini

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Borghese Museum

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

22 | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome 22 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Italy's museum of oriental art. Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Palazzo Altemps

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

170x240_MMI adv 2018_Layout 1 16/11/18 12.14 Pagina 1

ROME

•

PARIS

•

LONDON

•

NEW YORK

•

LOS ANGELES

JOIN US ON YOUR JOURNEY EARLY LEARNING AGES 2-5

ELEMENTARY SCHOOL AGES 6-11

MIDDLE AND HIGH SCHOOL AGES 11-18

TOP UNIVERSITIES A GLOBAL NETWORK

F I R S T I N T E R N AT I O N A L S C H O O L I N I TA LY Via di Villa Lauchli, 180 - 00191 Rome, Italy Tel. +39 06.3629101

www.marymountrome.com

Mater Dei SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. G. Cervelli - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. D0111 del 17-03-03 Companies certified with ISO 9001:2008 Quality Management System

Via A. Bertoloni, 34 00197 Rome

06 80220.1 clinicamaterdei.eu +39

24 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via V. Tiberio, 46 00191 Rome

06 33094.1 clinicapaideia.eu +39

Paideia SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. A. Lamanna - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. 1072 del 10-12-02

YOUR PRIVATE HOSPITALS IN ROME

Paideia SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. A. Lamanna - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. 1072 del 10-12-02

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Casa di Goethe

Capitoline Museums

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-21.00.

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro del Bramante

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

MACRO Asilo

Galleria Colonna

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.it. Programme of free art events at the city’s contemporary art space until the end of 2019. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed.

MATTATOIO Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. www.museomacro.org.

Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Barracco

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Giorgio de Chirico House Museum

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Keats-Shelley House

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org.

Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours available on advance booking.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Museo storico della Liberazione

Museo Canonica

were tortured here during the Nazi occupation of Rome from 1943-1944. 09.00-13.15 / 14.15-20.00.

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Via Tasso 145, tel. 067003866, www.museoliberazione.it.

Housed in the city's former SS prison, the Liberation Museum

Palazzo Merulana

Via Merulana 121, tel. 0639967800, www.palazzomerulana.it.

Museum hosting the early 20th-century Italian art collection, including Scuola Romana paintings, of the Cerasi Foundation. 09.00-20.00. Tues closed.

u 25 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES 1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www. unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.

Fondazione Memmo

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www. lorcanoneill.com.

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. com.

Contemporary Cluster

Visual art, design, architecture, fashion design and beauty apothecary in a 17th-century palace. Via dei Barbieri 7, www. contemporarycluster.com.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www. exelettrofonica.com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists.

Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel.

0645432028, www.federicaschiavo. com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www. fondazionegiuliani.org.

22 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome

26 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome 26 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www. fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto. com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.

0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject. com.

This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel.

0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria PIOMONTI

Founded by gallerist Pio Monti, this gallery has promoted the work of major contemporary Italian artists since 1969. Piazza Mattei 18, tel.

0668210744, www.piomonti.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www. galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel.

066791387, www.galleriailsegno. com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel.

0669923801, www. galleriamucciaccia.com.

Galleria Valentina Moncada This gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www. valentinamoncada.com.

Galleria Varsi

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

generations.

Via di Panico 55- 59, tel. 0668801351, www. ilpontecontemporanea.com.

Philobiblon Gallery

Hosts exhibitions the international

representing scene and

La Nuova Pesa

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www. nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www. magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel.

0639378024, www.monitoronline. org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900

This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 3482833034.

Montoro 12

Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel.

0668308500, www. m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www. nomasfoundation.com.

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

The Rome branch of this international franchise hosts exhibitions in addition to dealing in antique books. Via Antonio Bertoloni 45, tel.

0645555970, www.philobiblon.org.

Pian de Giullari

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www. piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Plus Arte Puls

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls. com.

RvB ARTS

Rome-based

gallery

specialising

young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1 contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography.

Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel.

0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

T293

The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

The Gallery Apart

This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

Tralevolte

This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www. tralevolte.org.

Valentina Bonomo

Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www. galleriabonomo.com.

Wunderkammern

This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art.

Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

Started by art historian Sara Zanin, innovative national and international contem-porary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261, www. z2ogalleria.it.

23 | June 2018 • Wanted in Rome

27 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome 27 | Nov 2018 • Wanted in Rome

28 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

where to go in Rome

WHAT’S ON Isabella by Alice Pasquini. See Art News page 36.

ec

5d

9-2

Ro an me’ d sE Ch n ris gli tm sh as -la re ngu ch lig a io ge urc us A h se dv es rv en ice t s.

31 c

de

e Ru eig n pl R hth ac o e e me di w on m tio e r N ar n o un ew a f th th ro Ye on e m ar t W e ’s ak e Ev es e.

Th

c

30 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

de

sport

1-9

CT -20

9O

JAN

P a h ala r an igh zzo fo im lig de h r al atio ts lle l t n 30 E he , w y sp fa ith ear osiz m ily an s of ion . ex Pi i hi xa bi r tio n

pix

c

de

a

6-8

Churches of r ts, de igh . un R ia fo an ecil i, in m . C gr Hu t S ilia lle or a ec io A s f orn s. c less ician e h A us s th M lay p

THEATRE

b fe

En g D lish on Qu The ixo atr tes e o d at f R on Te om q u at ro e p ixo A res te rc en s ili ut ts o.

0 t-1 oc

Th e

30

l

FESTIVALS

ll s te nt ro rese lian a. mo le p o Ita otell mimiona ted t o R az a m N dic im ria de t M lle on tis Ga iti ar e ib Th exh an

c de

Rock, pop, jazz

-31

CLASSICAL

21

a tiv the l fes ar, iva el ye est um . sp rd F ori ica go 23 spel dit us ma its Go Au a M ro in ma the dell ow o to co R r s rn Pa tu N

re

EXHIBITIONS

EXHIBITIONS

artists including Giovanni Battista Calandra, Pietro Paolo Cristofari and Agostino Masucci. Galleria Corsini, Via della Lungara 10, www.barberinicorsini.org.

Giacomo Balla at Museo Carlo Bilotti. Alberi e siepe a Villa Borghese, 1905 circa, Collezione della Fondazione Cariverona.

ZEROCALCARE 10 Nov-10 Mar

bi

tio r n

MAXXI presents the works of Zerocalcare, an Italian comic artist linked to the underground scene. The exhibition traces the artist’s career and is divided into three central themes: Pop and Tribe, Resistance and Politics, NonReportage. On display are posters, illustrations, record covers, original illustrated pages from his nine books, and a site-specific work designed by the artist specially for MAXXI. Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

BALLA A VILLA BORGHESE 29 nov-17 feb

76, tel. 0668805928, dorothycircusgallery.it.

www.

The Carlo Bilotti Museum shows more than 30 works painted in Villa Borghese by Italian artist Giacomo Balla (1871-1958). The paintings, which have never been shown together before, were created before the artist embraced the futurist style for which he became known internationally.

See Lost Balla Mural in Art News page 36. Museo Carlo Bilotti, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 6, tel.

060608, www.museocarlobilotti. it.

OBEY: MAKE ART NOT WAR

SETH: RANGE TA CHAMBRE

GUIDO RENI, I BARBERINI E I CORSINI

24 Nov-24 Dec

Dorothy Circus Gallery presents the first double solo show by French street artist Seth at its Rome and London galleries. The works on display celebrate the surreal, imaginative world of Seth who made his mark on Rome in 2016 with the M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Getsito dai Rom), an underground project overseen by Stefano Antonelli who curates the Dorothy Circus exhibition. See cover this issue. Via dei Pettinari

24 Nov-22 Dec

Galleria Rossoventisette presents an exhibition of 55 limited edition prints by celebrated American graphic artist and social activist Shepard Fairey, better known as Obey. The works by the artist, who shot to fame in 2008 with his Hope poster of Barack Obama, are on sale. Galleria Rossoventisette, Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27. com.

16 Nov-17 feb

Under the title “History and fortune of a masterpiece”, Galleria Corsini showcases one of the most important paintings in its collection: the Vision of S. Andrea Corsini by Guido Reni, commissioned by the Corsini family to mark the canonisation of their saintly relative. The exhibition is compared with some works by Reni and other

PAOLO PELLEGRIN: UN’ANTOLOGIA 7 Nov-10 Mar

MAXXI presents more than 200 photographs highlighting the creative journey of the celebrated Italian photographer Paolo Pellegrin who for over two decades has combined the documentary style of a reporter with the visual intensity of an artist. The recipient of 10 World Press Photo awards and a member of Magnum agency since 2005, Pellegrin’s work is examined under two central themes: the human condition and the natural world. As part of the exhibition, MAXXI has asked the photographer to create a piece dedicated to L’Aquila and its rebuilding following the earthquake that devastated the town almost a decade ago. Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www. maxxi.art.

MIMMO ROTELLA MANIFESTO 30 OCT-10 FEB

The Galleria Nazionale marks the 100th anniversary of the birth of Italian artist Mimmo Rotella (1918-2006) with an exhibition in collaboration with the Fondazione 31 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

T H E M A P O F A R T I N I TA LY

Mimmo Rotella and the Mimmo Rotella Institute in Milan. The 160 works on display in the gallery’s Salone Centrale are exhibited in six poster-ensembles, each of which examines the various techniques used by the artist as he experimented during his long career. An important figure in post-war European art, Rotella is best known for his décollage works made from torn advertising posters. Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

LOW FORM 20 OCT-24 FEB

MAXXI presents a multisensory display exploring the technological and surreal imagination of contemporary artists, “from computer-generated dreams to creative algorithms and avatars that question the meaning of existence.” The exhibition presents the visions of 16 international artists whose works question the limits between man and machine in a rapidlyevolving technological era.

MAXXI, Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4A, www.maxxi.art.

MARCEL DUCHAMP 20 OCT-24 FEB

The newly-opened Galleria Casoli De Luca presents By or Of Marcel Duchamp or Rrose Sélavy, an exhibition dedicated to the avantgarde artist Marcel Duchamp (1887-1968).

The exhibition features over 100 pieces by the French artist, including drawings, brochures, invitations, posters, books and the only ready-made (ordinary manufactured objects modified by Duchamp) not to have had subsequent editions, the Porta: 11, rue Larrey (1927), exhibited in Rome for the first time. Casoli De Luca, Piazza di Campitelli 2, tel. 066991188, www.casolideluca.com.

Zerocalcare exhibition at MAXXI. Fedeli alla tribù, 2010, Courtesy Zerocalcare.

STILL SHOWING ANTONIO FRADDOSIO: LE TUTE E L’ACCIAIO 1 nov-3 mar

Sculptor Antonio Fraddosio presents a site-specific installation described as an “anti-rhetorical monument” to the workers at the controversial ILVA steel plant in Taranto. The ten large works, comprising twisted steel plates, recalling the protective suits worn

by ILVA workers, are on display in the cloister-garden of Rome’s municipal modern art gallery.

Galleria d’Arte Moderna, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

marcello mastroianni 26 oct-6 jan

The Ara Pacis Museum dedicates an exhibition to one of the greatest stars of Italian cinema: Marcello Mastroianni (19241996). The show traces the actor’s career through photographs, memorabilia, reviews and film footage as well as highlighting his less-well known roles on the stage. Museo dell’Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel.

060608, www.arapacis.it.

picasso 24 Oct-3 Feb

Italy’s first exhibition dedicated exclusively to the sculpture of Picasso features 56 works dating from 1905 to 1964, alongside photographs and videos providing the context in which the sculptures

were created. The exhibition also outlines the impact of Picasso’s visit to Rome in 1917 when he first viewed ancient Roman and Renaissance sculpture. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel. 068413979, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

lisetta carmi: la bellezza della verità 20 Oct-3 mar

The Museo di Roma in Trastevere hosts the capital’s first public exhibit dedicated to the Genoese photographer Lisetta Carmi. In addition to her best known works, the 150 images on display include three very different themes: the Parisian subway, transvestites, and Sicilian landscapes. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza di S. Egidio 1b, tel. 060608, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.

metamorfosi del quotidiano 13 Oct-9 dec

The Casina delle Civette at Villa Torlonia displays the Art Deco collection of Roman antique dealer and collector Francesco Principali (1947-1999), an expert in 20th-century decorative arts.

Among the works on display are important sculptures by Duilio Cambellotti, ceramics by artists such as Giò Ponti, and a collection of Venetian glass from the early 20th-century. Villa Torlonia, Via Nomentana 70, tel. 060608, www. museivillatorlonia.it.

33 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

at Musia Living (&) Arts, a multifunctional space opened a year ago by Roman entrepreneur and collector Ovidio Jacorossi. The exhibition comprises around 30 works by artists active in Rome and across Italy during the second half of the 20th century, including Afro, Capogrossi, Fioroni, Fontana, Guttuso, Schifano and Twombly. Via dei Chiavari 7/9, tel.

0668210213, www.musia.it.

macro asilo Obey at Galleria Rossoventisette.

Rise Above Rebel, 2011. See page 31.

il sorpasso: quando l’italia si mise a correre 12 OCT-3 FEB

Photographic exhibition following Italy’s post-war reconstruction and subsequent economic boom, from 1946 to 1961. Organisers say the 160 photographs and archive footage on display offer a portrait of the collective rebirth of Italy and the Italians in the decades after world war two. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma. it.

JE SUIS L’AUTRE 28 Sept-20 Jan

Part of the Ō Festival (see Festivals page 42) this exhibition is dedicated to Primitivism, a naïve style art movement that originated in the late 19th century.

There are 80 works on display at the Baths of Diocletian by artists including Giacometti and Picasso, as well as masterpieces of ethnic art. Terme di Diocleziano, Viale Enrico de Nicola 79.

COLORE, IMMAGINE, SEGNO, OGGETTO, COMPORTAMENTO 4 Oct-12 Jan

The second in a trilogy of exhibitions exploring the journey of modern Italian art takes place 34 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

1 oct-31 dec 2019

MACRO on Via Nizza is free to visitors until the end of 2019 as part of an experimental art project, known as Asilo (meaning refuge). MACRO Asilo will see the participation of 250 contemporary artists who will be given space to work, perform and interact with the public. For details of December programme see website. MACRO Asilo, Via Nizza 138, tel. 06696271, www. museomacro.it.

la stanza di mantegna 27 sept-27 jan

Palazzo Barberini presents La stanza di Mantegna, six works from the Musée JacquemartAndré, a private museum in Paris. The exhibition includes two masterpieces by the 15th-century Italian Renaissance master Andrea Mantegna as well as four paintings by his contemporaries.

Palazzo Barberini, Via Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www. barberinicorsini.org.

ovidio: amori, miti e altre storie 17 oct-20 jan

Under the title Love, myths and other stories, this exhibition is dedicated to the life, work and legacy of Ovid. The show explores the central themes of Ovid’s writings: love, seduction and the relationship between power and myth. The display includes more than 200 works including frescoes, sculptures,

manuscripts and paintings.

Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 6, tel. 0681100256, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

sarah sze 13 oct-12 jan

The Gagosian shows new works by the American multimedia artist Sarah Sze who represented the US at the Venice Biennale in 2013 and 2015. Sze’s video installation Half Moon (2018) transforms the gallery space into a monumental magic lantern suspended between the worlds of sculpture and film, while her new series of paintings sees sculptural elements translated into two-dimensional imagery.

Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www. gagosian.com.

POLLOCK AND THE NEW YORK SCHOOL 10 Oct-24 Feb

The Vittoriano dedicates an exhibition to American Abstract Expressionist painter Jackson Pollock along with his peers such as Willem de Kooning and Franz Kline. The artists belonged to the New York School, an informal movement of avantGuido Reni at Galleria Corsini.

S. Andrea Corsini, 1629-30, Uffizi collection. See page 31.

garde painters, poets, dancers and musicians active in New York in the 1950s and 1960s. The painters were driven by experimentation and anti-conformism, particularly evident in the action painting of Pollock - known as “Jack the Dripper” - because of his revolutionary way of applying paint to canvas. The Rome exhibition comprises around 50 works including Pollock’s 3-m long Number 27. Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, www. ilvittoriano.com.

PIXAR: 30 YEARS OF ANIMATION 9 oct-20 jan

Palazzo delle Esposizioni celebrates three decades of Pixar, the Californian animation company which combines art and cutting-edge technology to create movies enjoyed by children and adults. Described as a “plunge into the creative universe of Pixar”, the exhibition comprises more than 400 drawings, sculptures, sketches, collages, storyboards and video material from the celebrated Pixar studios.

The show features much-loved characters from movies such as the ground-breaking Toy Story as well as Cars and Finding Nemo.

Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via

Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

FRENCH IMPRESSIONISTS: MONET TO CÉZANNE 5 oct-9 jan

Grande Exhibitions present an immersive exhibition experience inspired by the lives and works of the French Impressionists, at Palazzo degli Esami in Trastevere.

The exhibition uses interactive audiovisual technology to bring the Impressionists’ work to life, and is brought to Rome by the same virtual reality experts behind the recent Van Gogh Alive experience. For tickets see Ticketone website, www. ticketone.it. Palazzo degli Esami, Via Girolamo Induno 4.

andy Warhol 3 oct-3 feb

The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition of more than 170 works by the late Pop art supremo Andy Warhol on the 90th anniversary of his birth. The show comes ahead of an unprecedented exhibition dedicated to Warhol’s religiousthemed works scheduled to take place in the Vatican during 2019.

Vittoriano, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere, www.ilvittoriano.com.

Pixar: 30 anni di animazione at Palazzo delle Esposizioni.

Finding Nemo pastel sketch by Ralph Eggleston.

Lisetta Carmi exhibition at Museo di Roma in Trastevere. I Travestiti, La Gitana, 1968. ©Lisetta Carmi, courtesy Martini & Ronchetti. See page 33.

DREAM: l’arte incontra i sogni 29 sept-5 may

The Chiostro del Bramante hosts a site-specific exhibition of dream-themed art works, guiding viewers on a “physical, surreal, mental and dreamlike journey.”

The international artists include major names such as Anselm Kiefer, Christian Boltanski, Anish Kapoor, Bill Viola, Luigi Ontani and James Turrell. Chiostro del Bramante, Arco della Pace 5, tel.

0668809035, www. chiostrodelbramante.it.

donatello at palazzo venezia 12 july-28 april

Palazzo Venezia displays the precious terracotta bust depicting S. Lorenzo by the early Italian Renaissance sculptor Donatello (c.1386-1466). It is thought that Donatello made the bust for a church in the Tuscan town of Borgo S. Lorenzo in Mugello around 1440, the same period as he created his bronze David.

Lost for centuries, the bust was only rediscovered in 2003. Piazza Venezia 3, tel. 0669994284, w w w. m u s e o p a l a z z o v e n e z i a . beniculturali.it.

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

35 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Rome street artist Alice Pasquini was behind the visual campaign for the 2018-19 opera season at Teatro Comunale di Bologna. Isabella.

art news FONDAZIONE ALDA FENDI OPENS IN ROME In early October a lifesize rhinoceros sculpture appeared in front of the Arch of Janus, close to the Basilica di S. Giorgio in Velabro. It heralded the arrival of Rhinoceros, Alda Fendi’s new arts foundation on Via del Velabro 9. The six-storey structure is an amalgamation of existing buildings, parts of which date to the 17th-century, now transformed into 24 exclusive apartments along with cutting-edge exhibition and performance spaces, designed by French architect Jean Nouvel. Spanish entrepreneur Kike Sarasola is entrusted with the rental of the private apartments, known as the Rooms of Rome, and the rooftop restaurant, Caviar Kaspia Roma, serving Russian-inspired specialties and Italian cuisine. The foundation’s art gallery is open to the public every day from 10.00 to 19.00. Its inaugural exhibition is a collection of Michelangelo drawings and designs relating to the Tomb of Julius II, on loan from the Casa Buonarroti in Florence, until 9 December. This will be followed by the display of Michelangelo’s Crouching Boy sculpture from the Hermitage in St Petersburg. Alda Fendi is the latest Roman entrepreneur to enrich the capital with a privately-owned centre of art, following Claudio and Elena Cerasi’s opening of Palazzo Merulana in May and last year’s launch of Musia living (&) arts

by Ovidio Jacorossi. For details see website www. fondazionealdafendi-esperimenti.it.

LOST BALLA MURALS UNCOVERED IN ROME Murals painted by leading Italian Futurist artist Giacomo Balla (1871-1958) have been rediscovered in a Rome building owned by the Bank of Italy. The boldly-painted murals, which cover about 80 sqm of 36 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

walls and ceiling, once decorated the Bal Tic Tac, a popular jazz and cabaret club in the 1920s. The original murals, long believed lost, survived under wallpaper and wooden panels at the city-centre building, located at the corner of Via Milano and Via Nazionale. The building’s owners have engaged specialists to uncover Balla’s artwork which will be visible to the public as part of the Bank of Italy’s new museum, scheduled to open in 2021.

ARTIST ANGELO TITONEL DIES The painter Angelo Titonel has died, aged 80.

Originally from Italy’s northern Treviso province, Titonel moved to Rome where, during the 1970s, he gained recognition as a leading figure in Italian Magic Realism. In addition to exhibiting in important art museums in Italy and abroad, Titonel undertook prestigious commissions including portraits of Italian presidents and key historical figures for the Quirinal Palace. He was also commissioned by the Vatican to paint the official portrait of then Pope Benedict XVI and was invited by the Uffizi Gallery to create a selfportrait for the gallery’s Artist Self-Portraits collection.

SMOG EATING MURAL IN OSTIENSE A mural covering 1,000 sqm of the façade of a seven-storey building in Rome’s Ostiense district has become Europe’s largest mural created with “smog eating” paint. Hunting Pollution, by New York-based Milanese artist Iena Cruz, features the tricoloured heron, an endangered species native to the Americas.

The Airlite paint used in the mural, above a busy traffic junction on Via del Porto Fluviale, is produced

by London-based company AM Technology and cleans the pollution in the air to the same extent as a 30-tree wood. Yourban2030, a female non-profit group, was behind the mural which is part of the “regenerative street art” movement.

OPERA THROUGH THE EYES OF ALICE PASQUINI Alice Pasquini, the Rome street artist of international renown, has created a stunning visual campaign for the 2019 season of the Teatro Comunale di Bologna in conjunction with CHEAP, the street art poster festival. Her eye-catching portrait series of “ten strong women” include characters such as Isabella (An Italian in Algiers), Mrs Lovett (Sweeney Todd), Gilda (Rigoletto) and Rosina (The Barber of Seville). www.tcbo.it.

Andy Devane

READ THE AMAZING REVIEWS!

A unique experience through the history of rome

+39 06 879 11 691 info@welcometo-rome.it

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 203 www.welcometo-rome.it

Martha Argerich and Antonio Pappano, both on piano, perform at S. Cecilia on 16 December.

CLASSICAL ROME ACCADEMIA filarmonica romana concerto napolide 20 dec

Mozart’s Don Giovanni according to the Orchestra Piazza Vittorio.

The androgynous Don Giovanni leads an orchestra in an imaginary Cotton Club of the 1920s. This is a contemporary rendering of the Mozart classic. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

accademia bizzantina l’arte in fuga 17 jan

The Accademia Bizantina is considered one of the best Italian ensembles playing Italian 17th- and 18th-century Italian music. However in this concert it plays music by Bach. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA s. cecilia BRUCKNER’S 6th SYMPHONY 6-8 dec

Leonidas Kavakos conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra. The programme 38 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

includes the overture of Mozart’s Magic Flute and his horn concerto no 2 played by Alessio Allegrini.

Allegrini founded Musicians for Human Rights, which is a network of musicians worldwide who work to promote human rights and justice. There is also a Human Rights Orchestra.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

MOZART AND BEETHOVEN QUINTETS 12 dec

The soloists of S. Cecilia play the Mozart and Beethoven quintet for piano and wind. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

HAYDN’S MASS IN TIME OF WAR 13-15 dec

The Paukenmesse is one of the best known of Haydn’s 14 mass settings. It was written in 1796 in the wake of the French Revolution when all of Europe was at war. Manfred Honeck conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus. Mozart’s Exultate and Beethoven’s concerto for piano no 3 are also on the programme.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

MARTHA ARGERICH MEETING POINT MUSIC FESTIVAL 16 dec

The concert with Martha Argerich, Antonio Pappano (piano), Koyko Takezawa and Yasushi Toyoshima (violin) and Mischa Maisky (cello) celebrates relations between Rome and the Japanese city of Oita on the 20th anniversary of the first Argerich Meeting Point Festival in Beppu, Japan. The music is by Leclair, Schumann, Schostakovich, Heidrich and Saint-Saëns.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

FESTIVAL STAGIONI RUSSE THE NUTCRACKER RUSSIAN MASTERPIECES 18-19 Dec

Vladimir Fedoseev conducts the Tchaikovsky Symphony Orhcestra playing works by Tchaikovsky. On 18 Dec there is also a showing of the cartoon film of The Nutcracker with live music. In collaboration with the Russian ministry of culture. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

a box at the opera 20-22 dec

Manfred Honeck conducts the

S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Dvorak’s Rusalka, Strauss’s ballet Whipped Cream and the suite from his comic opera Rosenkavalier. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com.

ANDREAS SCHIFF 7 jan

Andreas Schiff is playing a magnificent programme of music by Mendelssohn, Beethoven, Brahms and Bach. Sala S. Cecilia, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

YURI TEMIRKANOV RACHEL HARNISCH

here by Rachel Harnish. To get a preview there is a YouTube recording of her singing the work conducted by the late Claudio Abbado with the Lucerne Festival Orchestra. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

istituzione universitario dei concerti orchestra sinfonia siciliana 4 Dec

To celebrate its 60th anniversary the Orchestra Sinfonica Siciliana 10-12 Jan plays music by Stockhausen, Yuri Termirkanov conducts the Debussy and Mahler. This S. Cecilia orchestra performing reworking of the Stockhausen Haydn’s London symphony and work Punkte in 1962 was Mahler’s symphony no 4, known intended for a concert in Palermo as the Heavenly Life (La Vita by the Sicilian orchestra. However Celestiale) composed around the the work was not finished in central song of a child’s vision of life in heaven, originally composed time and was only performed a several years previously and sung year later at the Donaueschingen festival. The Mahler Lieder are Alessio Allegrini, founder of Musicians for Human sung by baritone Otto Katzameier.

Rights, plays the horn at S. Cecilia on 6-8 Dec. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

RUMBACH 15 dec Rumba with Bach is the subtitle for this concert with Veronika Eberle violin, Edicson Ruiz double bass and Gonsalo Grau percussion.

The programme includes two Italian premieres, one by Oscher composed in 2018 and one by Grau, called RumBach, composed in 2017. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

AROUND BERNSTEIN 18 dec As the title suggests there is plenty of other music as well as the Bernstein pieces such as Gershwin, Ellington/Sciarrino, Shaw and a jazz rendering of a composition by C.P.E Bach, the fifth child and second son of Johann Sebastian. Played by the Ials Jazz Big Band and Alessandro Carbonare clarinet.

Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www.concertiiuc.it.

BACH UNLIMITED 15 jan Pianist Lise de la Sale plays plenty of Bach but also three works by her contemporary and fellow national, the French composer and pianist Enhco. She also performs pieces by Liszt, Kempff, Poulenc and Busoni. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna Università la Sapienza, Piazza Aldo Moro, www. concertiiuc.it.

other venues

Some of Rome’s English-speaking churches, such as St Paul’s within the Walls, All Saints’, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist church and the Oratorio Caravita also have concerts and opera recitals.

S. Agnese in Agone in Piazza Navona and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj are two other places that often offer concerts. The Oratorio del Gonfalone (www. oratoriogonfalone.eu) schedules unusual concerts (often to encourage young musicians and ensembles) every Thursday in the delightful small church off Via Giulia. It also has Sunday concerts at 11.00 followed by an aperitivo.

39 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

A world class education in the heart of Rome St. Stephen’s International Day & Boarding School

www.sssrome.it

#4 St. Stephen’s School Rome Via Aventina 3, 00153 Rome, Italy tel: +39 065750605 / email: ststephens@sssrome.it

www.sssrome.it

Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and the New England Association of Schools & Colleges

Massive Attack perform at Palalottomatica on 8 February.

ROCK, POP, JAZz orchestraccia 14 DEC

Orchestraccia performs at Teatro Europa in Aprilia, south of the capital, on 14 December. This travelling Roman folk-rock group is a collective of singersongwriters, actors and musicians, producing an innovative medley

SPORT

of songs, music poetry and theatre. Corso Giovanni XXIII 32, tel. 0697650344, www.teatroeuropadiaprilia.com.

MASSIVE ATTACK 8 FEB

Tickets have gone on sale for a concert by Massive Attack,

the

award-winning

musical

group

British

known

for

its so-called trip hop sound, scheduled for 8 February at Palalottomatica

in

EUR.

For

tickets see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Palalottomatica, Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi 1, www. palalottomatica.it.

we run rome 31 dec The eighth edition of the We Run Rome marathon takes place in the capital on New Year’s Eve, from 14.00-18.00. There are both competitive and non-competitive versions of the 10-km course, which starts and finishes near the Baths of Caracalla, as well as 5-km fun run at 14.15. Runners can register in advance, either online or in person at the We Run Rome offices on Via dei Monti della Farnesina 77.

We Run Rome on New Year’s Eve.

For details

see website www.werunrome.com.

41 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

The Harlem Gospel Choir will perform at this year’s Roma Gospel Festival.

festivals Ō / MUSICA, DANZA E ARTE 14 SEP -16 DEC

The Baths of Diocletian provides the backdrop for Ō / Musica, Danza e Arte, a festival showcasing contemporary and experimental dance, art installations and dj sets, with live music ranging from electronic and alternative to techno, world and soul-pop by international artists and djs. Events take place at the Octagonal Hall, part of the Baths of Diocletian complex, on Via Giuseppe Romita 8. Entry is free, subject to availability, but reservation is required. For details see website, www.o-termedidiocleziano.com.

OMNIA FLUMINA ROMAM DUCUNT 23 Oct-13 Jan

Alvin Curran’s sound installation Omnia Flumina Romam Ducunt (All Rivers Lead to Rome) fills the Baths of Caracalla from 09.00-18.30, every day except Sunday. The installation 42 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

features long-lost sounds of rivers and running water, fragments of voices speaking in Latin, texts from Ancient Roman poets as well as the noises of exotic wild animals, all projected from 20 speakers hidden among the ruined bath complex.

Curran, a pioneer of Sound Art, is a long-term Rome resident. For full details of his installation see the Italian culture ministry website, www.beniculturali.it. Viale delle Terme di Caracalla.

più libri più liberi 5-9 dec

The 16th edition of the national fair for small and medium Italian book publishing houses takes place for the second year at the Nuvola conference centre in EUR. Piú libri piú liberi offers a five-day literary programme of conferences, lectures, readings, theatre workshops, performances and presentations.

Supported by the Italian culture ministry, the annual event was founded in 2002 by Italy’s small

publishers’ association to give smaller publishing houses much needed visibility. Roma Convention Center - Nuvola, Viale Asia, www. plpl.it.

roma gospel festival 21-31 dec

Billed as the most important festival of its genre in Europe, the Roma Gospel Festival celebrates its 23rd anniversary this year. Directed by Mario Ciampà the festival features numerous choirs, often from the US. This year’s programme includes Walt Whitman & The Soul Children of Chicago (21-23 Dec), New Direction Tennessee State Gospel (25 Dec), Laura Wilson & Nù Movement (26 Dec), Harlem Gospel Choir (27-29 Dec), Vincent Bohanan & The Sound of Victory (30 Dec) and the South Carolina Mass Choir (31 Dec). Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

The Ballanchine choreography of The Nutcracker at La Scala opens the new season.

DANCE MILAN TEATRO aLLA SCALA THE NUTCRACKER 16 DEC-15 JAN

Balanchine’s choreography of this Christmas favourite opens the ballet season at La Scala with a new production with the participation of the theatre’s ballet school. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www. teatroallascala.com.

ROME the nutcracker by tchaikovsky 4-16 dec

No Christmas season would be complete without The Nutcracker in one of its many interpretations.

This version is choreographed by one of the greats of the Cuban ballet, Ofelia Gonzalez with Pablo

Moret and the students of the Teatro dell’Opera ballet school.

Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

SWAN LAKE

BY TCHAIKOVSKY 28 Dec-6 Jan

Choreography by Benjamin Pech from the Paris Opera and Ballet.

Pech is one of the many members of the Paris Opera brought in to work with the Rome ballet corp

by Eleonora Abbagnato, the Paris etoile and now head of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma ballet corp.

On 28, 29, 31 Dec there will be two guest stars from the Bolshoi Ballet, Anna Nikulina and Semyon Chudin. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

TEATRO olimpico THE NUTCRACKER 7-9 jan

Tchaikovsky’s Christmas favourite

with the Classical Russian Ballet, which was formed in 2004 with dancers from Moscow’s Bolshoi and the St Petersburg Vaganova academies. In collaboration with the Accademia Filarmonica for the 2019 Festival Internazionale della Danza di Roma. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.teatroolimpico.it.

MUMMENSCHANZ YOU&ME 15-20 jan

The popular mask and mime company returns to Rome with a new work You&Me where the five characters create an illusionary world with their fantasy and the clever use of lighting, costumes and movement. You&Me was created by the founding member of Mummenschanz, Floriana Frassetto, in 2016. In collaboration with the Accademia Filarmonica for the 2019 Festival Internazionale della Danza di Roma. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www. teatroolimpico.it.

43 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

44 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Davide Livermore directs Verdi’s Attila for the opening of the La Scala season.

opera MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA ATTILA

BY VERDI 7 DEC 11 DEC-8 JAN

Verdi’s opera Attila opens the La Scala season on 7 Dec with Riccardo Chailly conducting a new production by Davide Livermore.

Ildar Abdrazakov sings the role of Attila and Saioa Hermandez as Odabella. Abdrazakov has sung the role many times and has recently performed at La Scala in Ernani but Hermandez is new to the role and to La Scala. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

LA TRAVIATA

BY VERDI 11 JAN-17 MAR

Conducted by Myung-Whun Chung and staged by Liliana Cavani with a top-class cast of Marina Rebeka alternating with Sonya Yoncheva as Violetta, Francesco Meli and rising French

the part of the Duke of Mantova, sang at the Teatro dell’Opera in June this year as Rodolfo in La bohème. He shares the role with Ismael Jordi who goes on to the Zurich Opera House to sing the Duke of Manova after Rome.

Roberto Frontali as Rigoletto will sing the same part at New York’s Met after his appearance in Rome. Sebastian Catana comes from singing Rigoletto in Belfast and the Berkshire opera festival this summer. He was last seen in Rome when he took the part of Germont in La Traviata in Oct 2017. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www. operaroma.it.

LA TRAVIATA

by VERDI tenor Benjamin Bernheim as Alfredo Germont and Leo Nucci and Placido Domingo as Giorgio Germont. Bernheim debuted in Verdi’s Requiem at the Royal Opera House conducted by Antonio Pappano in October 2018 to excellent reviews. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

rome TEATRO dell’opera di roma

12-26 JAN

Conducted by Pietro Rizzo this is another re-run of Sofia Coppola’s sumptuous but traditional direction of Verdi’s La Traviata with Valentino costumes which was first staged at the Rome opera house in May 2016. There is nothing new here other than the ever-changing cast many of whom are from the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma young artist programme. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

Lisette Oropesa in Rigoletto at Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. Photo Jason Homa.

RIgOLETTO

by VERDI 2-18 DEC

A new production of Verdi’s opera opens the 2018-2019 season in Rome. Daniele Gatti conducts and the director is Daniele Abbado.

American soprano Lisette Oropesa, who alternates in the part of Gilda with Claudia Pavone, sang in Rigoletto at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma two years ago and at the Arena festival in Verona in August this year. The Peruvian tenor Ivan Ayon Rivas, who takes 45 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 11 Oct-9 DEC

The American Academy in Rome hosts Anthorpolaroid, an exhibition of work by Italian artist Paolo Gioli as part of an ongoing series of public events exploring the body as a site of subjectivity and meaning from antiquity to the present. Born in 1942, Gioli was among the first artists to master Polaroid transfers in the early 1970s, marrying the process with handmade pinhole cameras to create timeless images centred on the human body and its fragments. Curated by the Academy’s Arts Director, Peter Benson Miller, the exhibition can be visited Fri-Sun 16.00-19.00.

American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

BRITISH SCHOOL AT ROME 6 dec

Pattern and chaos in the labyrinth. A talk by Charlotte Higgins, the chief culture writer of The Guardian, who will look at the twin characteristics of the labyrinth – its pattern, its chaos – as reflected in art and literature. 18.00–19.30.

10-11 dec

The Roman Art World in the 18th Century and the Birth of the Art Academy in Britain. The British School at Rome hosts the first day of a two-day conference to conclude a series of events celebrating the 250th anniversary of the foundation of the Royal Academy of Arts, London. Day two of the conference will be held at Rome’s Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca.

14-22 Dec

December Mostra. An exhibition of works by current Fine Arts award-holders at the BSR: Anna Brass, Simon Callery, Ann Debono, Samuel Hasler, Holly Hendry, Jade Ching-yuk Ng, Soheila Sokhanvari. The inauguration is 18.30-21.00 on 14 Dec. The show

theatre

The English Theatre of Rome presents Don Quixotes at Teatro Arciliuto.

can be visited Mon–Sat 16.3019.00. British School at Rome, Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939, www.bsr.ac.uk.

casa di goethe 9 NOV-20 jan

The Casa di Goethe examines the travels in Italy of Joseph Beuys (1921-1986) through a series of “objects, posters, postcards, photographs, invitations, memories and signs of affection” relating to the mutifaceted German artist.

Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it.

japanese cultural institute 7 NOV-19 jan

The Japanese Cultural Institute celebrates the varied role of the kimono in Japanese society with a colourful exhibition of costumes dating from the first half of the 20th century, exhibited in four sections: religion, childhood, tradition and nature. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 0694844655, www.jfroma.it.

trend

18 oct-22 dec

The 17th edition of Trend: New frontiers of the British scene takes place at Teatro Belli in Trastevere, with the support of the British Council. The drama festival provides a bridge between established and emerging British and Irish talent, and the programme contains awardwinning works from noted playwrights as well as recent plays by younger authors. Translated from their original language into Italian, the programme continues into December with Harrogate by Al Smith (30 Nov-3 Dec), Growth

by Luke Norris (5-8 Dec), Shining City by Conor McPherson (1047 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

12 Dec), Yellow Moon by David Greig (14-15 Dec), Conservatory by Michael West (16 Dec), The Prudes

by Anthony Neilson (17-19 Dec), and Lungs by Duncan Macmillan (20-22 Dec). Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it.

english theatre of rome 1-9 dec

The English Theatre of Rome presents Don Quixotes, an interactive comedy version of Cervantes’ classic story for all ages, St Francis Xavier del Caravita.

written and directed by Glyka Stoiou. Described as an “explosion of energy”, the production sees the audience taken on a trip to 16th-century Spain to follow the adventures of Don Quixote. Fun for all the family, with audience participation. Shows 20.00 on 5 Dec, 16.00 on 8 Dec, 16.00 and 20.00 on 9 Dec. Tickets €15, reduced €12. To reserve, email rometheatre@gmail.com or rometheatre@yahoo.com. Teatro Arciliuto, Piazza di Montevecchio 5 (Piazza Navona).

arts in english

Pontifical Irish College (roman catholic)

St Paul’s Within-theWalls (Episcopal Church)

Via dei SS. 06772631.

9 Dec. Advent

17.00.

Quattro

1,

tel.

and Carol Service,

S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel.

066876652-066876211.

Dec. Christmas programme. 10.30.

24 Dec. 19.00.

music

Christmas Eve Service,

25 Dec. Christmas Service, 10.30.

St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 064827627.

churches All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 0636001881.

153/b,

tel.

24 Dec.

Crib Service for children 17.00, First Eucharist of Christmas 23.30.

25 Dec. Said Eucharist 08.30; Sung Eucharist 10.30.

48 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

7,

Rome cultural association Arts in English presents Do Re Mi, its family-friendly version of the hit musical Sound of Music, at Teatro in Portico in the Garbatella district. Performances take place on at 21.00 on 7 Dec, 17.30 and 21.00 on 8 Dec, and 17.30 on 9 Dec. Tickets €15. To reserve email artsinenglishtickets@protonmail. com with preferred date and time.

Teatro in Portico, Circonvallazione Ostiense 195.

Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339.

24 Dec.

Musical prelude 22.30.

Holy Eucharist, 23.00.

Rome Baptist Church 16

7-9 dec

tel.

S. Isidoro (Roman Catholic) Via

degli

Artisti

41,

tel.

064885359.

24 Dec. Midnight Mass 21.00.

25 Dec. Mass 10.00.

S. Silvestro in Capite (Roman Catholic)

24 Dec.

Christmas Eve Service,

Piazza di S. Silvestro 1, tel.

25 Dec.

Christmas Day Service,

24 Dec. Mass at 19.30 25 Dec. Christmas Mass

18.30.

10.30.

St Patrick’s American Community (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 0688818727.

31,

066977121. at 10.00

and 17.30.

tel.

Caravita (Roman Catholic)

24 Dec.

St Francis Xavier del Caravita

25 Dec.

24 Dec. Mass at 19.30 25 Dec. Christmas Mass

Children’s Christmas Pageant Mass 16.30. Concert and Carols 19.00. Midnight Mass 19.30.

Christmas 09.00, 10.30.

Day

Mass

Via della Caravita 7.

and 17.30.

at 10.00

lassical lassical

The following is a list of the main musical associations in Rome but it is not a definitive list of all the music that is available in the city.

The following is a list of the main musical There are also concerts in many of the associations in Rome but it is not a definitive churches and sometimes in the museums. list of all the music that is available in the city.

There are also concerts in many of the Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della churches and sometimes in the museums.

Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Auditorium Conciliazione, ViaP. de della Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it Accademia Filarmonica Teatro Auditorium Parco della Romana, Musica, Viale P. de Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com www.filarmonicaromana.org. The new season Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro starts on 15 Oct Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia.it.

All www.filarmonicaromana.org.

The new season concerts Parco della Musica. The startsat onAuditorium 15 Oct newAccademia season startsS. on 5Cecilia, Oct www.santacecilia.it. All concerts Universitaria at Auditorium Parco della Musica.

Istituzione dei Concerti, AulaThe newUniversità season starts on 5 Oct www.concertiiuc.it Magna, la Sapienza,

Istituzione Universitaria deiGonfalone Concerti,32a, Aula Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it www.oratoriogonfalone.com Oratorio delMethodist Gonfalone, Via delPiazza Gonfalone 32a, RomeConcerts, Church, Ponte www.oratoriogonfalone.com S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it RomeConcerts, Piazza Ponte Roma Sinfonietta, Methodist AuditoriumChurch, Ennio Morricone, S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

Roma Auditorium Roma Tre Sinfonietta, Orchestra, some concertsEnnio are atMorricone, Teatro Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, while others at Roma Tre Orchestra, some concerts are are at Teatro the Aula Magna, Piazza Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, 8, Palladium, Bartolomeo Romano Universita Roma Tre, Via while Ostienze teatropalladium.uniroma3.it, others234, are at www.r30.org the Aula Magna, Scuola Lettere Filosofia Lingue, Universita Tre,festivals Via Ostienze 234, There are oftenRoma concerts, and opera www.r30.org recitals in several churches in Rome.

often concerts, festivals and153, opera All There Saints' are Anglican Church, Via Babuino recitals in several churches in Rome. www.allsaintsrome.org All Saints' Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. www.allsaintsrome.org Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Oratorio del Caravita, Via della Caravita 7 Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com

Oratorio del Caravita, Caravita St Paul's Within the Walls,Via Viadella Nazionale and7 the corner of Via Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the S. Agnese Sagrestia del Borromini, corner ofin ViaAgone, Nazionale, www.stpaulsrome.it Piazza Navona S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Palazzo PiazzaDoria NavonaPamphilj hosts a series called Opera Serenades by Night with Dinner throughout Palazzo Doria Pamphilj hosts a series called the year.

There is a concert, a tour of the museum Serenades

by Night Dinner throughout and Opera dinner afterwards.

Viawith del Corso 305, the year. There is a concert, a tour of the museum www.doriapamphilj.com and dinner afterwards. Via del Corso 305, www.doriapamphilj.com | Dec • Wanted in Rome 50 |50 Oct 20182018 • Wanted in Rome

MUSIC MUSIC THEATRE THEATRE CINEMA CINEMA VENUES VENUES

cc

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA DANCE OPERA

c

dd p p

inema inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals.

See Wantedshow in Rome website for The following cinemas movies in English weekly updates. or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for Adriano, Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 weeklyPiazza updates.

Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767 0686391361 Barberini, Piazza BarberiniMastroianni 24-26, 1, tel.

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello tel.0686391361 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel. tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it 068553485 Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

068553485 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 066861068 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 066861068 Odeon, Piazza Stefano 22, tel.

Nuovo Sacher, LargoJacini Ascianghi 1, 0686391361 tel. 065818116

Space Moderno, Piazza della 44, tel.

Odeon, Piazza Stefano JaciniRepubblica 22, tel. 0686391361 06892111 Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebec06892111 chini 3-5, tel. 06892111 Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

t

Te 06 T Te 0 ww T Tew ww T Tew ww T Tew 06 T 0

h n or

l.

1,

l.

l.

l.

16

1

l.

c-

ddance oopera p pop r ock r ance

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, 17, www.teatroolimpico.it Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano www.teatrovascello.it 17, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it

pera

Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it Teatro Costanzi, Teatro dell'Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it

op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Concert venues ranging from major pop and Alexanderplatz, 9, tel. 0683775604 rock groups to Via jazzOstia and acoustic gigs. www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel.

0683775604 Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Angelo Mai Via Atlantico delle Terme di Atlantico, VialeAltrove, dell’Oceano 271d, Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org tel.

065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it

Atlantico, Viale Atlantico Auditorium Parcodell’Oceano della Musica, Viale 271d, P. de tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Auditorium della Viale de Casa del Jazz, Parco Viale di PortaMusica, Ardeatina 55,P.tel.

Coubertin,www.casajazz.it tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com 06704731,

t

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it

heatre heatre

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, 06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net www.teatrobelli.it Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobelli.it www.teatrobrancaccio.it Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatrobrancaccio.it www.teatroghione.it Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. www.teatroghione.it 06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Lanificio 159,ViaVia di Pietralata 159, Live Alcazar, Cardinale Merry del Valtel.

14, 0641780081, www.lanificio159.com tel.

065810388, www.livealcazar.com Live Alcazar, Merry del 35, Val 14, Monk Club, Via ViaCardinale Giuseppe Mirri tel. tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com 0664850987, www.monkroma.it Monk Club, ViaPiazzale Giuseppe Mirri 35,1, tel.

PalaLottomatica, dello Sport tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it 06540901, www.palalottomatica.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale Sport 1, tel.

Rock in Roma, Via Appiadello Nuova 1245, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it 0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via 0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, tel. 063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it www.teatrosangenesio.it Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsiwww.teatrosangenesio.it stina.it Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.ilsistina.it www.teatrovascello.it Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, Teatro Vittoria,www.teatrovascello.it Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. tel. 065898031, 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it 51 |51Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome | Oct 2018 • Wanted in Rome

WANTED junior inROME

Africa Book Week 2018 St George’s British International School, Rome, City Centre

Each year St George’s British International School dedicates its love of reading through the organisation of a Book Week. This year the celebration took place from 22-26 October. We always choose a theme and this year it was “Africa”. The decision was easy as it linked perfectly with the arrival of two extremely special guests to our school: Mr Kamandete Chuma and Mr Phil Shaw. We enjoyed a magical Africa Book Week which allowed us to enthusiastically share our love of reading as well as educate, fundraise and support our Zambian Orphanage Appeal.

If you would like to help us in our endeavours and change the lives of 25 children, find out more at www.justgiving.com/soa.

Elena Horowitz, Year 4, age 8 St George’s was very excited to welcome our extremely special guests. Mr Kamandete Chuma is the general manager at SOCH (Serenje Orphan Children’s Home), an orphanage in Serenje, Zambia which is supported by St George’s British International School through our ZOA (Zambian Orphanage Appeal) committee. SOCH is also supported through the SOA (Serenje Orphanage Appeal) committee at College du Leman, Geneva, Switzerland. This is led by our other special guest, Mr Phil Shaw.

Hadrian Dunn, Year 4, age 8 Together, St George’s and College du Leman support a total of 25 children who live at SOCH. Currently at the orphanage, the youngest child is 5 years old and the oldest is 15. Sadly, some of these children have no mother or no father and some have neither, so together we work hard to fundraise for SOCH so that we can provide the children with clothes, food and a beautiful home to live in as well as an education. We feel that all of this is extremely important. The ZOA Committee even organised a wonderful gift of good quality socks and underwear for every child as well as a gift for each of the men and women who help to look after them at SOCH.

52 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Amelia Magaletti (8), Costanza BarbieriHermitte (8), Kira Pentassuglia (9) and William Ochendorf (9), Year 4 During our Africa Book Week, St George’s engaged in lots of exciting activities. These included: reading different stories from the continent of Africa; shared reading, for example, Year 1 read their incredible African Animal Counting Stories to Year 4; an African themed poster competition; Book Alarm (every day the Book Alarm randomly went off – whenever this happened, we would stop everything we were doing and just enjoy reading for 20 minutes – sometimes we were enjoying it so much that our teacher forgot to stop us! She was reading Harry Potter and The Half-Blood Prince); we had very interesting assemblies with Mr Kamandete Chuma and Mr Phil Shaw to find out about the progress happening at SOCH and how the children are. We were so happy to hear that some of the older children are now about to start college. One of the girls is going to study to become a nurse and one of the boys is going to study to become a teacher. It’s fantastic!

Finally, we had our first ZOA Committee Fundraiser which was a delicious, Africathemed bake sale. We managed to raise an astounding €400. There was even a surprise flash mob to an African song. It was a great surprise for our guests. We also had a stall for the ZOA Sewing Project. This included a variety of beautifully hand-stitched items, such as pillow cases, shoulder bags, table mats and purses, made by some of the children and adults at SOCH. This raised a further €450. We can’t wait to see more items from the ZOA Sewing Project at our upcoming Christmas Fair on 17 December.

Africa Book Week Sunmin Maria Kim, Age 10, Year 6 Children at St George’s Year 6 took part in Africa Book Week to improve their reading and their understanding. The

money they raise goes to poor orphans who do not have a home. In preparation, the first thing Year 6 children did was to learn an African fable. This was to help develop their confidence in sharing and speaking aloud to the class. The activity also helped everyone in the class to come up with ideas for pop-up books to make and send to the orphans in one of the orphanages in Zambia.

After that, their teacher in the library gave them the opportunity to learn a few African words, and to understand what they meant, read the children an African picture book. It was a very interesting book, showing how it is like to live in Africa and have an African family. The next day, when the children had physical education, their gym teacher taught them how to dance an African dance, which was full of energy and fun. This also helped with their creativity and teamwork, as they had to make up their own dance with their team. Then the children had a visitor from Africa, Mr Kamandete, the manager of the Zambian Orphanage, who thanked the school for its support. Later in the day, the school had a Zambian bake sale (and had a craft stall where students and teacher sold purses and bags made by the orphanage children, with a little help from the adults). The children in Year 6 had a fabulous time, having fun and learning at the same time. It was a wonderful week to raise money for our ZOA appeal and to meet the orphanage’s manager.

St George’s City Centre, Junior School, Via di S. Maria Mediatrice 22G, tel. 0644230486, www. stgeorge.school.it.

JUNIOR Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers. The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

53 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

54 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

LASAGNE CON BROCCOLI E SALSICCIA

By Kate Zagorski Some ingredients go together so well that they can work in any form. The classic Roman combo of 'broccoli e salsiccia' is one such pairing. Whether on a pizza, thrown together with pasta or simply fried together in a pan, the contrast of hearty sausage meat and garlicky greens always seems to satisfy.

This recipe revisits this idea but in lasagne form, taking the concept of a lasagne 'in bianco' (without tomato) to fully celebrate the sausage and broccoli flavours. The addition of bechamel and mozzarella makes this a filling, comforting dish which will warm you up on a winter's day.

This recipe is a great vehicle for the pointy romanesco broccoli so abundant at this time of year, and which gives a delightfully sweet, nutty tang to the dish, but you could also use the darker 'broccolo siciliano' for a similar result. If possible use thin, fresh pasta sheets which do not need pre-cooking but if you only have dried or thicker lasagne sheets to hand (or prefer a less 'al dente' taste) boil them for a couple of minutes in the leftover broccoli water to soften them slightly. If you prefer you can make your own bechamel but the shop-bought besciamella works perfectly fine for this recipe, as well as saving time and washing up.

Ingredients for 6 people

8-10 sheets of lasagne 1 medium-sized head of broccoli 4 pork sausages 500ml bechamel sauce 3 x 125g balls of mozzarella, cut into 1cm cubes

50g Parmigiano Reggiano, grated 1 clove garlic, finely sliced 2 dried red chillis, chopped Extra virgin olive oil Salt and Pepper

Cut the broccoli into small florets and cook in salted boiling water until just beginning to soften. Add a generous splash of olive oil to a frying pan, add the garlic, chilli and a little salt then cook over a low heat for a couple of minutes to infuse the oil. Be careful not to brown the garlic.

Drain the broccoli and add to the frying pan. Toss it well in the oil and cook for about 5 minutes over a medium flame until it is soft and has absorbed the flavours. Set aside and leave to cool a little.

Cut the mozzarella balls into cubes of about 1cm. Squeeze the uncooked sausage meat out of its casing and tear into small pieces.

Now begin to compile the lasagne. Spread a little bechamel sauce on the base of a baking dish. Add a layer of lasagne sheets on top and then spread more bechamel over the top before adding half of the broccoli mixture and half of the sausage meat distributed evenly. Add a third of the mozzarella cubes in between the pieces of broccoli and sausage, drizzle with a bit more bechamel and then cover with another layer of pasta sheets and repeat the whole procedure.

Add a final layer of lasagne sheets and cover with the remaining bechamel and mozzarella. Sprinkle with the grated parmesan and season the top with salt and black pepper.

At this point you can cover the lasagne and keep it in the fridge until you are ready to bake it. To cook the lasagne pre-heat the oven to 180°C and then bake for about 30 minutes until the cheese has melted and the top is golden and crispy.

Rome’s artart capital continues to to grow with newnew murals by important Italian and Rome'sreputation reputationasasananimportant importantstreet street capital continues grow with murals by important Italian international streetstreet artistsartists appearing all the all time. the works located the suburbs, often far often from the and international appearing theMost time.ofMost of theare works are in located in the suburbs, far centre.

Here is where to is find Rome’s mainRome’s street art projects from the centre.

Here where to find main streetand artmurals. projects and murals.

Esquilino Esquilino Murals

by Alice Pasquini, Gio Murals byNicola Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Alessandrini, Pistone, Casa Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. dell’Architettura, Diamond.

Casa Piazza Mafredo Fantidell'Architettura, 47.

Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo The dai M.A.G.R. (Museoby French Abusivo Gestito Rom), a project Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a street artist Seth is located in a former former soap factory on Via Antonio soap factory on Via Antonio AvogaAvogadro, opposite Ostiense’s dro, opposite Ostiense's landmark landmark Gasometro. For details see Gasometro.

For details see www.999contemporary.com. www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Ostiense Metropoliz Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto This former meat factory in the Fluviale. outskirts of by Rome is nowIacurci. a street Fish’n'Kids Agostino Via art as well as being home to delmuseum Porto Fluviale. some squatting Wall 200 of Fame

by JBmigrants.

Rock. ViaThe dei Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Magazzini Generali.

Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open Shelley by Ozmo.

Ostiense underpass, onVia Saturdays, Ostiense. and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Pigneto Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex, Echaurren Tributes to Pablo Pier Paolo Pasoliniand by Borondo. page Maupal, See Mr.MAAM Klevra Facebook and Omino 71. for ViadaPrenestina 913.

Viadetails.

Fanfulla Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Ostiense Francesco Fronte DelBaracca.

Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Prati Fish’n’Kids

by Agostino Iacurci. Via Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo del Porto Fluviale.

Mercato Trionfale, Via Rock.

AndreaVia Doria.

Wall of Fame

by JB dei Daniza the Generali. bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Magazzini Shelley by Ozmo.

Ostiense Penestino Via Ostiense. underpass, This former meat by factory the Palazzo occupato Blu, in Via outskirts of Rome is now a street art Ostiense. museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

56 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via Fanfulla da Lodi. migrants.

Museo dell’Altro e 2501 muralThe on Via Fortebraccio. dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, MAAM, Blu Landscape

by Sten &orLex. Via is only open on Saturdays, and Francesco Baracca. features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Prati Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond.

See Anna Magnani portrait

by Diavù.

MAAM Facebook for details.

Nuovo Mercato page Trionfale, Via Via Prenestina Andrea Doria. 913.

Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Primavalle Cristoforo Numai.

The Roadkill

by Fintan Magee. Via Theseus stabbing Cristoforo Numai. the Minotaur by Pixelpancho.

Via Pietro Theseus stabbing the Bembo.

Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Quadraro Pistone. murals Via Decio Tunnel byMure.

Mr THOMS and NidoPistone. di Vespe Via

by Lucamaleonte.

Gio Decio Mure. Via del Monte Grano.

Nido didel Vespe

by Lucamaleonte. Via Baby Hulk byGrano.

Ron English. Via dei del Monte del PisoniHulk 89. by Ron English. Via dei Baby Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Rebibbia Palombini (Casal dèCiciliano Pazzi). and Via Murals

by Blu. Via Welcome to(Casal Rebibbia

by Zerocalcare.

Palombini dè Pazzi).

Metro B station.

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

S. Basilio features large-scale works on S.SanBa Basilio the façades of social-housing blockson in SanBa features large-scale works the façades disadvantaged north-east suburb of the of social-housing blocks S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regenerain the disadvantaged north-east tion project

by Italian suburb of S.includes Basilio works near Rebibbia. artistsregeneration Agostino Iacurci, Hitnesincludes and Blu The project alongside Maiolati, works

by Spain's ItalianLiqen. artistsViaAgostino Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Arcevia, Iacurci, Hitnes and BluVia alongside Via Treia.Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Spain’s Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, S. Giovanni Via Treia.

Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via corner of Via Farsalo.

S.Apulia Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini.

It’s New Day

by Alice Pasquini. Via Via aAnton Ludovico.

Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Feminicide mural by Elisa Feminicide

by Sardi.

Elisa Caracciolo.

Caracciolo.mural Via Dei Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo.

Via dei Volsci 159.

Borondo.

Via Agostino dei Volsci 159.

Mural by Iacurci on Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Gallo.

Testaccio Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani.

Hunted Wolf bybyROA. Galvani. #KindComments AliceVia Pasquini, Via #KindComments

by Alice Pasquini, Volta, Testaccio market.

Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara Tor Pignattara Dulk.

Via Antonio Tempesta.

Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta.

Etnik.

Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51.

Etnik.Break ViabyBartolomeo Perestrello Coffee Etam Cru. Via Ludovico 51. Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Pavoni.

Ludovico Tom SawyerPavoni.

by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Serbelloni.

Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini

by Diavù. Former Cinema PasoliniVia

by Acqua Diavù.Bullicante.

Former Cinema Impero, Hostia byVia Nicola Verlato.

Via Galeazzo Impero, Acqua Bullicante.

Alessi.

Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Herakut.

Capua 14.

GaleazzoVia Alessi.

Agostino Via Muzio Herakut.Iacurci.

Via Capua 14. Oddi 6.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia The City Life scheme features 14-m Tor Big Marancia tall by 22 Italian and features internaThemurals Big City Life scheme tional street artists including Mr 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico.

The idea international street artists including was to transform area's of Mr Klevra, Seth,the Gaia andblocks Jerico. flats open-air art museum.

Via The into ideaan was to transform the area’s Tor Marancia. blocks of flatswww.bigcity.life.it. into an open-air art

museum. Via Tor Marancia. For full details see website, www.bigcity.life.it.

Cl Fi

n ar talian en far

a

ni. Via

o.

cciolo. he o, n the anzio,

S.

e di S.

a i. ni, Via

o o 51. dovico o

Gabrio a

inema o

leazzo

i 6.

m aMr14-m ternaa gof Mr e idea a cks of m. Via

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

57 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

• SS. Sebastiano e Valentino, Via Tirso 107/109, tel. 0687568048.

• Brown & Co, Via Tacito 20, tel. 0632306838.

• Coromandel, Via Monte Giordano 60/61, tel. 0668802461.

• Roscioli Caffè Roma, Via Benedetto Cairoli 16, tel. 0689165330.

• Le Levain, Via Luigi Santini 22-23, tel. 0664562880.

• Cristalli di Zucchero, Via di Val Tellina 114, tel. 0658230323.

58 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Indirizzi

• Le Carrè Français, Via Vittoria Colonna 30, tel. 3206422558.

The best croissants in Rome Do you prefer an Italian cornetto or a French croissant? Made with butter or margarine? Filled with Italian crema or chocolate? Here are our favourite cafes and bakeries in Rome serving the tastiest croissants.

Le Carrè Français A bistrot, patisserie, boulangerie, boucherie, fromagerie, epicerie and wineshop. You can choose from a Croissant Nature (traditional croissant costing €1.30), a Croissant aux amandes filled with almond cream (€1.40), a Pain au chocolat with Valrhona chocolate (€1.40), Chausson aux pommes (apple turnover, €1.90) or even Pain aux raisins (€1.50).

SS. Sebastiano e Valentino This bakery uses the best ingredients: Corman butter, organic eggs from farm shop Cupidi and brown organic sugar. You can choose between a traditional Italian cornetto made fresh to order, filled with jam, crema or hazelnut cream with olive oil and cocoa, or even a wholewheat French croissant made with honey and toasted sunflower seeds in the dough.

Brown & Co The puff pastry here is crisp on the outside and soft in the middle, and the outer layer is painted with egg yolk or glazed with sugar. You can choose from classic cornetti (€1) or cornetti filled with crema, jam or chocolate (€1.20). There are also wholewheat varieties, Venetian whirls, danish pastries with raisins or chocolate, twists with crema or lemon, orange turnovers, and chocolate and pine nut whirls.

Coromandel Coromandel’s croissants are the result of many years of experimenting to find the perfect recipe. They are all made by hand with butter from Normandy, and are half way between a French croissant and a classic Italian cornetto.

Their creation requires two days of leavening and then one day for folding the butter and dough together. The result is a croissant that is crispy, buttery (perhaps a little too much) and full of flavour (€3).

Roscioli Caffè Here you can try one of the mini fruit pastries, pain au chocolat, sweet buns and croissants (there’s a choice between Italian and French versions). The raw dough is left to leaven for hours in water so that it rises as much as possible, which brings out the croissants full flavour, and then vanilla, honey, orange rind, butter and lemon can be added.

The croissants cost €1.20 (€1 for mini one), while the sweet buns (maritozzi) cost €1 to €2.20.

Le Levain This small French bakery pays great attention to its ingredients: organic flour, natural yeast, Pamplie butter and Callebaut chocolate. The croissants are crunchy on the outside but soft in the middle. You can order a sweet or salty variety (€1.20) and they are made to order. You can also order a loaf of brioche, an enormous croissant to share between friends (€8).

Cristalli di Zucchero There are pastries made of puff pastry, others made of short crust pastry (€2.30) – la Veneziana sprinkled with sugar, la Kranzella (a raisin twist), la Romanella (a ricotta and chocolate filled cornetto), la Parigina (a puff pastry pizza, often filled with ham), il Ventaglio (a sweet pastry whirl), the vanilla cream twist or the Danish pastries. The traditional cornetti cost €1 and can be filled with chocolate or Italian crema, or there are wholeweat varieties made with honey that can be made to order.

www.puntarellarossa.it

59 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Accommodation vacant in town

Accommodation vacant out of town

ROOM TO RENT Room to rent for one student (female), €400 plus bills (€150 aprox) compelte kitchen, washing machine and bathroom to share. Documents needed. 100 mt from tram 8 terminus and 150 mt from bus H terminus Wi-Fi. Tel. + 39 3683495236 Italiano + 39 3318221358 English.

FURNISHED COTTAGE NEAR ROME Attractive furnished cottage 60 sqm, 1 bedroom, 1 sitting room, living kitchen, bathroom, garden, great location in Zagarolo, 20 miles from Rome. Frequent trains to Rome Central Station, 25 minutes ride €550 monthly. drroversi@ gmail.com. Tel. 3477037894.

COSY ROOM IN CAMPO DE’ FIORI AREA Bright, lovely, cosy room available in the heart of Rome.

Fully furnished with private bathroom and shower, wifi, tv, mini-fridge and shared kitchen. Excellent location. 2 steps from Campo de’ Fiori. Contact globi@tiscali.it.

TIVOLI-MANDELA 19th century tower, completely restored 90 sqm furnished / unfurnished apartment with entrance, 2 bedrooms, living room, bathroom, kitchen, €350 + €40 condominium. 50 km from Rome, two apartments in old castle, completely restored, living room, 2 bedrooms. Unfurnished. €310 + 40 condominium. Other: 3 bedrooms, living room, dining room, 2 fireplaces, 2 bathrooms, balcony, terrace. €450 + 40 condominium. Tel. 066786400. fedel@email.it.

TRASTEVERE STATION/MARCONI - 2 BEDROOMS VIA FERMI (Marconi) Close and well connected to Roma Tre and The American University. Quiet apartment, 70 sqm, fully-furnished and equipped. Wide entrance, 2 bedrooms, 1.5 bedrooms, large kitchen, storage room, terrace, caretaker/ janitor. Email or call/WhatsApp 3496554782. No agencies.

WONDERFUL ROOM TO RENT IN TRASTEVERE Wonderful room to rent in Trastevere, near tram H. Garden, English and Italian speaking. €400+expenses (€150). Please call 3683495236 (Italian) and 3318221358 (English) or email: mcristiani@tiscalinet.it.

MANZONI GIOLITTI AREA Manzoni/Giolitti area: furnished studio for single person, there is a 3 quarter sized bed; renting for 6 months minimum, at €500 per month. Contact: dellascala4@gmail.com.

MANZONI AREA Garden apartment renting, six months minimum at €800 a month. Contact: dellascala4@gmail.com.

VIGNA CLARA - GIOCHI DELFICI 25 sqm studio apartment. Bedroom, kitchen, bathroom, completely furnished. €550 monthly, all included. Please call 3467882036.

TRASTEVERE Independent on a private courtyard. Living room, kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom with shower, completely furnished and provided with linen. Close to all public transport and shops.

Long and short term rents. Contact marilu_vitali@yahoo.it.

VIGNA CLARA. NEAR PONTE MILVIO Vigna Clara. Near Ponte Milvio. Delicious mini apartment, about 25sqm, completely furnished, bedroom-kitchen, bathroom, €500 monthly, all included. Tel. 346788203.

CLASSIFIED DEADLINE DATES Date di scadenza 19 Dec 16 Jan PUBLICATION DATES Giorno di pubblicazione 7 Jan 1 Feb

60 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Jobs vacant ADJUNCT FACULTY IN MANAGERIAL ACCOUNTING The American University of Rome’s Business Administration program seeks applications from qualified candidates for a part-time, non-tenure-track Adjunct Faculty teaching opportunity in 2019, to teach “Managerial Accounting” (Accounting II), with possible additional courses in future semesters. This is a core course in the Business program and is currently scheduled for Tuesdays and Thursdays 6:40-8:15 pm. The ideal candidate(s) will hold an advanced degree in accounting, finance or a related field. Recent teaching experience in the US higher education system is desirable. English fluency is mandatory; Mother tongue English preferred. Adjunct faculty are expected to teach to the designated syllabus, provide support and guidance to students; and develop strategies to teach the course for the entire semester, using the course syllabus, objectives, and curriculum. To apply, please send: cover letter (Quote HR 38/2018 “Accounting” in the subject line), rèsumè and the names of two references to applications@aur.edu Italian working papers are essential. Interviews will start as soon as possible and will be on-going. AUR is an equal opportunity employer.

DEVELOPMENT AND ALUMNI RELATIONS ASSISTANT The American University of Rome is looking for a Development and Alumni Relations Assistant The selected candidate will provide administrative support to the Alumni and Development Coordinator and the Director of Development as they work to increase contributed revenue, build relationships with donors and prospects, and increase

WANTED IN ROME DOES NOT ACCEPT RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CONTENT OF THE ADVERTISEMENTS IT PUBLISHES. Wanted in Rome does not accept jobs vacant ads that discriminate on the basis of age, race, nationality, gender or religion. Via di Monserrato 49, 00186 Roma – Tel./fax 066867967 advertising@wantedinrome.com - www.wantedinrome.com The Wanted in Rome offices will be closed for the Christmas break from 24 Dec to 6 Jan. FREE CLASSIFIEDS must be submitted on our website, www.wantedinrome.com Free ads are downloaded and published in the magazine space permitting.

engagement with alumni and the entire AUR community.

Main Responsibilities: • Management of the Constituent Database, including: Data and gift entry. Contact reporting, Constituent management, Prospect Research o Running and creating reports • Stewardship, Donor correspondence, Donor acknowledgments, Assistance in compiling donor reports and annual reports • Communications, Web and electronic communications including: Donor appeals, Event invitations and correspondence. Newsletters, Mailing list management • Special Events o Assist in the arranging and management of special events including guest list management, communications with venues, reserving locations, assisting with event related travel reservations, etc. • Other administrative duties as needed Qualifications and Requirements: • Bachelor’s degree or equivalent • Prior experience in fundraising (in education or in an NGO) • Native English language skills; Italian language proficiency a plus • High level of proficiency with the following: Database applications like Jenzabar, Raiser’s Edge, DonorPro or similar, including report writing with applications like Infomaker o Microsoft Office, Constant Contact or other similar applications • Basic proficiency with Adobe programs • Prospect research experience desired but not compulsory • Ability and willingness to work evenings and weekends when required • Italian working papers are essential. • Term employment contract. Full time position. Please send a resume with 3 reference contacts by email to applications@ aur.edu. Quote HR 37/2018. Interviews will begin as soon as possible and will be ongoing until the position is filled. This search is addressed to all candidates regardless of gender, race or religion. AUR is an equal opportunity employer.

ADJUNCT FACULTY IN ENVIRONMENTAL SCIENCE (SPRING 2019) The General Education program at The American University of Rome seeks applications from qualified candidates for parttime, non-tenure-track Adjunct Faculty teaching opportunity in the Spring 2019 semester, with possible additional courses in future semesters. The successful candidate will teach ENV 103: Environmental Science, an introductory-level laboratory course in science for liberal arts students. The course is currently scheduled for Mondays and Wednesdays 5:157:05pm and enrolls 12-15 students. The ideal candidate(s) will hold an advanced degree in Biology or Environmental Science and will have experience in teaching laboratory courses. Recent teaching experience in the US higher education system is desirable. English fluency mandatory; Mother tongue English preferred. To apply, please send: Cover letter (quote re: Adjunct Faculty in Environmental Science HR36/2018), resume and three references are to be submitted by e-mail to applications@aur.edu Italian working papers are essential. Interviews will start as soon as possible and will be on-going. AUR is an equal opportunity employer.

TOUR OPERATOR IS LOOKING Tour operator is looking for outgoing English, German speaking people to give info and assistance to tourists in the Colosseum area. Working time from 09.00-14.00. Contact mackhugs@gmail.com.

ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents. Please send your CV to aurelia@ angloamericankids.it.

Lessons FRENCH QUALIFIED TEACHER Need to learn French for fun, business or culture? English, Italian, Spanish speaking. Loves teaching, your house or mine. Please leave telephone number or email. Tel. 3299823826; f.bessoles.rm@gmail.com.

Poetry IT’S NIGHT It’s night I am alone thinking about mental disease, fuori Corviale. Che ci vuoi fare. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

IMMIGRANTS Immigrants, what do we do? Poor indù. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

Property sale out of town CHARMING AND COSY WOODEN COTTAGE FOR SALE Charming and cosy “baita” wooden cottage + 2 bedroom Cottage annex, at 20 miles driving distance from Rome, in the Parco di Vejo Natural Reserve. The property, located in an elevated position, is set in a unique and dreamy landscape.

It is set on a 2.5 acre area with woodland, a large flat lawn (football field size) located in front of the main house, olive trees, an orchard, and a rich diversity of flowers, plants and trees. It is enriched by an eating area with a brick wood fired pizza oven, and a lit dancing floor to use in the warm summer nights by the moon. €660.000. Mail pierdavid@ tiscali.it.

Rooms and flat shares WONDERFUL ROOM TO RENT IN TRASTEVERE Wonderful room to rent in Trastevere, near tram H. Included photos. Garden, English and Italian speaking. €400+expenses (€150). Please call 3683495236 (Italian) and 3318221358 (English) or email: mcristiani@tiscalinet.it

LOOK FOR MORE CLASSIFIED ADS ON WWW.WANTEDINROME.COM Free Classified Advertisements. All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted v ia o ur website a t www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements p laced o n our website w ill be downloaded a nd published i n the magazine, but o nly if t hey include contact d etails. J obs Wanted classifieds will no longer be accepted in o ur office but m ust be p laced d irectly o n our website www.wantedinrome.com.

61 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Associations American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, www.mariomieli.net Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com Daughters of the American Revolution Pax Romana Chapter NSDAR paxromana@daritaly.com, www.daritaly.com

International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490, www.iwcofrome.it Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 3338466820 Patrons of Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Woman’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 3479313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wntome-homepage.blogspot.com

Books The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836924 Anglo American Bookshop Via delle Vite 102, tel. 066795222 Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637 www.saintlouisdefrance.it La librerie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.libreriefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it

Religious All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 3899691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 3342934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroli 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) 62 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484 Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com Otherwise Via del Governo Vecchio, tel. 066879825, www.otherwisebookshop.com St Patrick’s English-Language Lending Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727, Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30 Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 3332284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday Service 10.30

Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei SS. Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Roma Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652, 066876211, Suday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Roma Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic) Via Caravita 7, www.caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00

Support groups Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/06582045580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen (Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via delle Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 06681554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel. 0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 3381675680

Transport • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel.06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609-065551-063570-068822-064157066645-064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel. 892021, www.trenitalia.it

St Isidore College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic), Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 068881827, www.stpatricksamericaninrome.org Weekday Masses in English 18.00, Saturday Vigil 18.00, Sunday 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel. 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 06444234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri” Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022

Chiamaroma 24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Emergency numbers • • • • • • •

Ambulance tel. 118 Carabinieri tel. 112 Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 Fire brigade tel. 115 Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel. 800900999 Police tel. 113 Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 63 | Dec 2018 • Wanted in Rome

38

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Wanted in Rome 2018-19.qxp_Dicembre doppia 2018 15/11/18 10:01 Pagina 1

FEBRUARY 18 - MARCH 3 TEATRO COSTANZI CONDUCTOR

SPERANZA SCAPPUCCI DIRECTOR

GIUSEPPE VERDI

GIORGIO BARBERIO TEATRO COSTANZI CORSETTI DECEMBER 7, 12, 14, 16

i masnadieri

DECEMBER 2, 4, 6, 9, 11, 13, 15, 18

CONDUCTOR

ROBERTO ABBADO DIRECTOR gIusePPe

verdI

la sonnambula

ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO gIacomo PuccINI DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

MASSIMO POPOLIZIO

tosca

Rigoletto

NEW PRODUCTION IN COPRODUCTION WITH TEATRO PETRUZZELLI DI BARI

ORCHESTRA AND CHORUS OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

CONDUCTOR daNIele gattI

CONDUCTOR stefaNo raNzaNI

DIRECTOR daNIele abbado

DIRECTOR alessaNdro talevI

NEW PRODUCTION

C

NEW PRODUCTION FEBRUARY 1, 3 TEATRO COSTANZI

SOIRÉE FRANÇAISE

ORCHESTRA, ÉTOILE, PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

M

SUITE EN BLANC MUSIC BY

CONDUCTOR CHOREOGRAPHY REVIVED BY WITH

Y

ÉDOUARD LALO EXCERPTS FROM “NAMOUNA” CARLO DONADIO SERGE LIFAR CLAUDE BESSY

ELEONORA ABBAGNATO

MY

CY

CMY

K

PINK flOYD BALLET

la traviata

DIRECTOR A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

SOFIA COPPOLA

ORCHESTRA, CHORUS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

TEATRO COSTANZI DECEMBER 28,DI29, 30, 31 - JANUARY 3, 4, 5, 6 A TEATRO DELL’OPERA ROMA PRODUCTION

Pëtr Il’Ič čajkovskIj

THE PINK FLOYD ROLAND PETIT LUIGI BONINO

MUSIC BY (ON RECORDED BASIS) REVIVED BY

PIETRO RIZZO

CM

JANUARY 28, FEBRUARY 3 (8:00 PM)

BALLET BY

orchestra aNd4 chorus FEBRUARY 24 - MARCH of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma TEATRO COSTANZI wIth the PartecIPatIoN of the boys choIr CONDUCTOR of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma

GIUSEPPE VERDI

orchestra aNd chorus of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma

swan lake

FEBRUARY 25 TEATRO NAZIONALE DIRECTOR

FABIO CHERSTICH

figaro!

SET,CONDUCTOR COSTUME AND VIDEO DESIGN

NIr kabarettI CHOREOGRAPHY beNjamIN Pech

GIANLUIGI TOCCAFONDO

orchestra aNd corPs de ballet

operaroma.it operaroma.it

FOUNDERS FOUNDERS

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

PATRONS AUTOMOTIVE PARTNER

MEDIA SPONSOR

“FABBRICA” of the teatro dell’oPera dI roma YOUNG ARTIST PROGRAM AND YOUTH ORCHESTRA A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

Opera Camion

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations by Gianluigi Toccafondo and David Downton Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustrations

by Gianluigi Toccafondo

FEBRUARY 2, 4 TEATRO COSTANZI TEATRO COSTANZI

VINCENZO BELLINI

Passaggio prioritario ai varchi di sicurezza

Parcheggio sicuro e videosorvegliato

Esclusivi menu stellati a condizioni riservate

Accesso ai Terminal veloce e coperto

Tanti servizi per la tua auto e attenzioni per te

SCONTO

15% SCOPRI GLI ESCLUSIVI PARCHEGGI DELL’AEROPORTO DI FIUMICINO.

Scegli il comfort dei parcheggi Executive e presenta la tua WIR Card all’operatore per avere uno sconto del 15%.

Lo sconto del 15% si applica alla tariffa di sosta standard (sono escluse le soste prenotate online, il lavaggio e gli altri servizi a pagamento).

Lo sconto, non cumulabile con altre iniziative e promozioni in corso, è valido fino al 31.12.2018.

Scopri di più su www.wantedinrome.com

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 10, Numero 11 DECEMBER 2018 € 2,00

Accesso e pagamento con Telepass

WHAT'S+

ON

WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

11