Wanted in Rome - January 2018

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 10, Numero 1 JANUARY 2018 | € 2,00

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

WHAT'S

ON

WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

december 31 - january 7

Pëtr il’ič čajkovSkij

the Nutcracker

CONDUCTOR

alexei baklan CHOREOGRAPHY

giuliano PeParini orcheStra, PrinciPal dancerS, SoloiStS and corPS de ballet of the teatro dell’oPera di roma

With the ParteciPacion of StudentS at the teatro dell’oPera di roma ballet School

C

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A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

CM

MY

CY

CMY

la sesta di bruckner

january 11 CONDUCTOR

deniS ruSSell davieS

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concert

PhiliP glaSS TIROL CONCERTO anton bruckner SYMPHONY N.6 orcheStra of the teatro dell’oPera di roma

operaroma.it

FOUNDERS

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

AUTOMOTIVE PARTNER

january 21 - february 4 CONDUCTOR

roberto abbado DIRECTOR

giuSePPe verdi

i masnadieri

maSSimo PoPolizio orcheStra and choruS of the teatro dell’oPera di roma NEW PRODUCTION

january 28 - february 3

Suite en blanc

MUSIC BY Édouard lalo CONDUCTOR

carlo donadio

CHOREOGRAPHY Serge lifar REVIVED BY claude beSSy

Pink floyd ballet

MUSIC BY (ON RECORDED BASIS)

the Pink floyd BALLET BY roland Petit REVIVED BY luigi bonino

orcheStra, etoile, PrinciPal dancerS, SoloiStS and corPS de ballet of the teatro dell’oPera di roma A TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA PRODUCTION

Soirée Française

CONT

4. WANTED IN ROME, WHAT’S NEW

MARCO VENTURINI

8. ARTISTS AT

ROME’S OPERA HOUSE Andy Devane

12. DIGGING AND

DEALING: THE LIFE OF ROBERT FAGAN Peter Murray

MISCELLANY

18.

20.

22.

44.

48.

52.

56.

58.

63.

NEXT PUBLICATION AND CLASSIFIED DATES Next publication dates are 1 February and 1 March.

Calssified advertisements placed through our office, Via di Monserrato 49, should arrive not later than 13.00 on 22 January (for 1 February) and 19 February (for 1 March).

However classifieds may be published around the clock on our website www.wantedinrome.com. They will appear in the next available paper edition of the magazine.

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: Marco Venturini EDITRICE: Società della Rotonda Srl, Via delle Coppelle 9 PROGETTO GRAFICO E IMPAGINAZIONE: Dali Studio Srl STAMPA: Graffietti Stampati S.n.c.

DIFFUSIONE: Emilianpress Scrl, Via delle Messi d’Oro 212, tel. 0641734425. Registrazione al Trib. di Roma numero 118 del 30/3/2009 già iscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985.

Finito di stampare il 08/01/2018

WHAT’S ON

MUSEUMS ART GALLERIES IN ROME TO DO CALENDAR WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR ROME UNDERGROUND STREET ART PUNTARELLA ROSSA CLASSIFIED USEFUL NUMBERS

THE ENGLISH LANGUAGE MAGAZINE IN ROME

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 10, Numero 1 JANUARY 2018 | € 2,00

EDITORIALS

APRIL 2017 € 2,00

26.

34.

36.

37.

38.

39.

40.

46.

EXHIBITIONS CLASSICAL POP, ROCK, JAZZ DANCE OPERA THEATRE ACADEMIES CHILDREN

Copies are on sale at: Newsstands in Rome Feltrinelli International, Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878.

Anglo American Bookstore, Via della Vite 102.

Wanted in Rome, Via di Monserrato 49.

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WHAT'S

ON

URE T

WHERE TO GO IN ROME ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS

Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 4

The Unchanging World Exhibition by Alice Pasquini 20 Jan-16 Feb at Philobiblon Gallery See page 27 for details.

ENTS 38 OPERA

36

26 EXHIBITIONS

POP, ROCK, JAZZ

8

ARTISTS AT ROME’S OPERA HOUSE

About us

WANTED IN ROME, WHAT’S NEW WANTED IN ROME CONTINUES TO EXPAND IN PRINT AND DIGITAL MEDIA Marco Venturini

S

ince March 1985 our goal has been to help and inform the expat community in Rome, and in Italy. Our mission is, and has been over the last 30 years, to try to explain the Eternal City to its foreign guests. Not a simple task, it must be said, but for sure a challenging and intriguing one.

Over these three decades our focus has been to find new ways to communicate with our readers and stakeholders; to serve the community with up-to-date news and events; to be a participative hub for our audience. In 1997 we launched our first website, wantedinrome.com, then came wantedinmilan.com, wantedineurope.com and wantedinafrica.com. Our Expat Guides to Rome and Milan, since 2009, have met your favour and so has our most recent product, The Wanted in Rome Card, that allows holders to enjoy special offers at discounted prices in the capital.

Things of course haven’t always been easy.

As well as the serious economic crisis of the last decade and the changes in the demographics of the expat community – it is now much younger and more mobile – there has also been the most far-reaching revolution in the means of communication and the distribution of information since the invention of the printing press. We have had to adapt accordingly.

6 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

However we still believe that the print medium has an important role to play for both readers and advertisers. Although we now publish once a month instead of once every two weeks we have changed the magazine format several times to keep up with modern graphics. At the same time we have also renewed our website content and design at least three times since we launched the first site in the early days of internet at the end of the 1990s.

totally new graphic project. More pages, more content and more sections in an effort to offer you an even better product, at the same price. News, What’s On and Classifieds plus our recipes, a restaurant guide (in collaboration with Puntarella Rossa, one of Italy’s main food blogs) along with our guides for children, street art and underground sites, and our Junior section, two pages dedicated to contributions from students of Rome’s international schools.

In the last few months we have renewed the website once again and hope that you are finding it easier and quicker to use. We use Facebook, Twitter and Instagram and have therefore added a much wider and younger audience than ever before.

Most of all we have retained our passion since we first started publishing and still put all our efforts into giving you the best information and the best service possible, whether in the magazine, on our website, through social media or directly in our office on Via di Monserrato.

That is why we hope you will enjoy this new edition of Wanted in Rome, which has served the expat and English-speaking Italians for more than three decades.

Of course we have no intention of stopping here. This edition of Wanted in Rome, the one you are reading right now, is the result of a

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 7

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Opera

ARTISTS AT ROME’S OPERA HOUSE THE ARTISTIC LEGACY OF TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA IS BROUGHT TO LIFE IN A SUMPTUOUS EXHIBITION AT PALAZZO BRASCHI IN ROME Andy Devane

W

hen he became sovrintendente of Rome’s opera house in 2013, Carlo Fuortes was “astounded” to discover a lavish but little-known story of opera intertwined with major Italian and international artists whose work had enriched the opera house since it opened in 1880. Fuortes vowed that one day the public would be given a look behind the velvet curtain to learn of this rich heritage and the crafts that sustain it.

The result, four years later, is Artisti all’Opera, a sumptuous exhibition at Palazzo Braschi. It features an impressive list of painters, fashion designers and film directors – including Pablo Picasso, Valentino, Sofia Coppella and William Kentridge – who have collaborated with the capital’s opera house over the last 137 years.

The exhibition also tells a tale of modern Rome, a tapestry of prevailing artistic and political trends, a mixture of history and culture played out against some of the most beautiful music the world has ever known. The curators, led by Gian Luca Farinelli, had to choose from the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma archive, a treasure trove boasting 80,000 costumes and 11,000 sketches and maquettes.

Lured by the strains of opera music, which alternates room by room, visitors are confronted immediately with a plaster bust of Domenico Costanzi, the entrepreneur and 10 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

founder of Rome’s opera house, peeping out of a wicker basket of props. His self-financed Teatro Costanzi on the Viminal hill was inaugurated in 1880 with a performance of Rossini’s Semiramide, in the presence of Italy’s king and queen.

A decade later Rome took the opera world by storm when it premiered Pietro Mascagni’s Cavalleria Rusticana, whose runaway success established the theatre’s reputation as a shrine to verismo opera. The exhibition features a highly-ornate painted cart donated by Sicily in 1940 on the 50th anniversary of Mascagni’s masterpiece. Also on display is the costume worn by Daniela Dessì in a 1995 production of Mascagni’s Iris, more than a century after its Rome premiere in 1890.

with a production of Nerone by Arrigo Boito.

The set and costumes for the production were designed by Dulio Cambellotti who was among a handful of artists that conformed to a classical approach as part of the fascist desire to broaden opera’s mass appeal. Paintings on show at Palazzo Braschi include Cambellotti’s small but powerful depiction of Lady Macbeth, from 1933, Felice Casorati’s Ecuba with its sun-baked umber shades, from 1941, and the whimsical 1943 designs by Filippo De Pisis for La Rosa del Sogno.

Next is a room dedicated to Mariano Fortuny and Caramba, the pioneering costume and set designers. Caramba’s peacock-feather cloak for Amneris from Verdi’s Aida is shown alongside the duo’s jester outfit from Verdi’s Un ballo in Maschera, both from 1931.

Another room is devoted to Giacomo Puccini, whose Tosca received its international premiere in Rome on 14 January 1900. Despite eventually becoming one of the world’s most performed opAfter emigrating from the Soviet Union in 1923 eras, Tosca was slated by critics following several years at the of the day, who decried Puccini’s Mariinsky Theatre, Nicola Benradical departure in style. Visiois designed 26 productions for tors to Palazzo Braschi can adthe Rome opera house before asmire Camillo Parravicini’s massuming the role of principal sceTHIS EXHIBITION terful watercolour design for the nographer at La Scala in 1935.

CONSOLIDATES Tosca set, dated 1928, as well as His costumes for Aida were used the red and emerald gown worn during Rome’s summer opera ITALY'S

by Maria Callas in 1948. programme in 1939 at the Baths EXCELLENCE IN of Caracalla. The open-air sumThere are reproductions of mer shows were part of the fascist OPERA Picasso’s original 29 mixedTeatro del popolo campaign, which AND ART media costume designs for Parade, was so successful that seating was staged by Sergei Diaghilev’s increased from 8,000 in 1937 to Ballets Russes in Rome in 1920.

20,000 the following year. The They are shown alongside the annual programme endures, with finished pieces whose zigzag frills, stripes and circles much success, to this day. contain strong cubist elements. Picasso created the designs three years earlier in Rome where he Italian Futurist Enrico Prampolini sought to met his future wife, the ballet’s first dancer Olga modernise scenography; transforming the tradiKhokhlova. Picasso’s immense canvas back-drop tionally static background into a moving strucfor Parade is currently on display at Rome’s Palazzo ture, infused with lighting and sound effects. His Barberini as part of a separate exhibition. designs and paintings for the Rome opera house range from 1931 to 1953 and illustrate his innoIn 1926 the city assumed responsibility for vative theatrical vision.

Teatro Costanzi and, following enlargement and restructuring, the newly-rechristened Teatro Reale One of the exhibition’s more exotic sections is a dell’Opera was inaugurated on 27 February 1928 small corridor occupied by Mirko Basaldella’s

“

”

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 11

Opera painted papier-mâché masks, colourful and wondrous, created for Création du Monde in 1955. On the opposite wall his brother Afro’s costume designs for Memorie dall’Ignoto (1958-59) surge out of a black background, stark and strong.

Next door a grand hall is dominated by a 15-m long canvas of Othello Act I by the metaphysical master Giorgio de Chirico, alongside more than a dozen of his painted designs for stage and costumes, all dating from 1964. A costume highlight is de Chirico’s astrologer outfit for Vittorio Rieti’s ballet Le Bal, evoking the Little Prince illustrations of Saint-Exupéry.

Rome’s opera house, which dropped the “Reale” from its title in 1946 following the end of the monarchy, continued to collaborate with major Italian artists in the post-war era. Renato Guttuso’s 1966 series of paintings for Stravinsky’s The Rite of Spring includes a floral scene with a human skull partially obscured by lush blooms, and a joyous depiction of nudes swirling in a mid-summer dell.

Exhibition organisers pay tribute to the celebrated director Luchino Visconti and his 1965 production of Don Carlo, whose ermine-trimmed cape is on display opposite the hulking antler-affixed outfit for Falstaff, directed by Visconti’s prize pupil Franco Zeffirelli.

Giacomo Manzù’s relatively spare designs for Stravinsky’s Oedipus Rex in 1963 are offset by the red, white and black “props-mobile” by American artist Alexander Calder, part of his experimental 19-minute Work in Progress in 1967, while in 1979 artist Mario Ceroli had fun with Puccini’s western La Fanciulla del West, designing cowboy costumes for a stage furnished with branches and straw.

Since the 1990s the opera house has collaborated with top Italian fashion designers such as Giorgio Armani, reinforcing the Made in Italy brand. An exhibition highlight is the crimson dress designed

by Valentino and worn by Francesca Dotto in her role as Violetta in Verdi's Traviata directed by Sofia Coppola in 2016. Not only was Coppola's debut as an opera director a major coup for Rome; it also generated the highest box office takings in the theatre's history.

The current stable of artists include Gianluca Toccafondo, an animator and illustrator from San Ma-

rino, whose eye-catching Artisti all'Opera posters can be seen around the capital this winter. Toccafondo also has a background in television and advertising, and has created promotional images for Rome's opera house since its 2014 season (see inside cover of this edition).

The exhibition concludes with footage from recent high-profile productions, many of them by foreign directors, including a contemporary reworking of Così fan tutte by Britain's Graham Vick, Benvenuto Cellini with the anarchic touch of American-born Terry Gilliam, and Lulu with more than 500 projected ink drawings by South Africa's William Kentridge.

This exhibition at Palazzo Braschi consolidates Italy's excellence in opera and art, allowing visitors to observe up close everything that is normally seen from far away. It also pays homage to generations of craftspeople who succeeded in interpreting artists' elaborate designs into costumes and stage sets. Today's carpenters and tailors work in a threestorey workshop – a former pasta factory at the Tiber end of Rome's Circus Maximus – where their predecessors have worked since the early 1930s.

Since becoming sovrintendente four years ago, Fuortes has not only managed to increase the audience and balance the budget; he has combined the classical traditions of the past with the innovations of today, raising the profile of the capital's opera house to a new international standing.

Artisti all'Opera runs until 11 March at Palazzo Braschi, Piazza S. Pantaleo 10 (Piazza Navona).

Above. Valentino designed the costume for La Traviata, directed by Sofia Coppella in 2016.

Page 6. Giorgio De Chirico's designs for the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma production of Othello in 1964.

Page 7. Costumes designed by Pablo Picasso were used in a 1954 production of Parade. Photo Yasuko Kageyama.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 13

History

DIGGING AND DEALING: THE LIFE OF ROBERT FAGAN THE COLOURFUL CAREER OF 18TH-CENTURY ARTIST AND ARCHAEOLOGIST ROBERT FAGAN REVOLVED AROUND HIS DISCOVERIES IN ROME Peter Murray

A

lthough described as an "amateur" and "an antiquarian and a great digger", Robert Fagan, who was born in London in 1761 and died in Rome in 1816, produced some very accomplished paintings during his lifetime, most of which was spent in Italy. He painted portraits in a style close to that of Jean Baptiste Greuze, but with a harder, more angular, quality. Although born in England, his family had emigrated from the southern Irish city of Cork to London, where his father Michael ran a bakery at Covent Garden.

After studying at the Royal Academy, in 1781 Fagan travelled to Rome with the painter Charles Grignion. A talented opportunist, with considerable powers of persuasion, Fagan saw there was a living to be made in buying and selling antiquities, and in 1783 he set up lodgings at Casa dei Trinità dei Monti, near the Spanish Steps, with the painter Hugh Robinson. However he was soon travelling, spending time in Naples, and supplying Grand Tourists with genuine – and sometimes not-so-genuine – sculptures and antiquities to take home to Britain and Ireland as souvenirs. Fagan’s lack of scruples did not deny him – and may indeed have attracted – the patronage of Prince Augustus Frederick (brother to the Prince of Wales and later Duke of Sussex), Sir Andrew Corbet Corbet, and Fred14 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

erick Hervey, Earl-Bishop of Derry, among the most influential of the expatriate community in Rome. Notwithstanding his wealth, doors in Rome that were closed to Hervey were open to Fagan, a Roman Catholic with strong Irish connections. Fagan also collaborated with Thomas Jenkins, another impecunious artist, British but Roman-born, who had returned to Italy some 30 years before, and who had built up a successful business as an art dealer and banker to the "milords".

On 12 April 1790 Fagan married 17-year-old Anna Maria Rosa Ferri, daughter of an emFrederick to his brother, the Prince of Wales. ployee of a Roman cardinal. Two years later, Venus was restored and remained in Rome unwhen their daughter Elestina was born, the til 1800, when Pius VII, disregarding local profamily settled in Rome. In two portraits painttests, granted an export license for its transfer ed around this time (one in Tate Britain, the to London. It was displayed at Carlton House, other on loan to the Hunt Museum, Limerick), and is now in the British Museum.

Anna Maria is depicted as a richly dressed and confident young woman. In order to support Fagan also collaborated with Hamilton at a dig his lavish lifestyle and growing family, Fagan at Gabii, while opening other "cave" at differthrew himself into the world of treasure huntent locations. Described as "Maistre di Milord ing, excavating numerous Roman tombs, villas Corbet", Fagan continued excavating and unand temples. In 1792, with financial backing earthed a statue of Diana on Colonna land at from Corbet, Fagan began to excavate the tomb Rocca di Papa near Rome. At Ostia, near Tor of Claudia Semne – whose husband commemoBoacciana, he discovered large statues of Atherated her with a lavish mausona and Hygieia, which he sold leum after her death some time to Thomas Hope, member of the between 120-130 AD – at the Society of Dilettanti, a private Vigna S. Sebastiano on Rome’s London club which sponsors the FAGAN THREW Via Appia. Around the same study of Greek and Roman art. time he joined Gavin Hamilton HIMSELF INTO They were later bought by Wilin excavating Pantano, a site liam Randolph Hearst, the newsTHE WORLD OF owned by Prince Borghese on paper magnate, and are now in TREASURE Via Prenestina, where a sculpthe Los Angeles Museum of Art. ture, Diane, was amongst the HUNTING treasures unearthed. Diane was In the Vatican Museums are sold in 1807 by Borghese to many works unearthed by Fathe French, and is now in the gan, including sculptures of TiLouvre. In 1794, Hervey and berius, Fortuna and a head of Prince Frederick financed Fagan’s archaeologiCommmodus. Fragments from the temple of cal dig at Pratica di Mare near Ostia, a project Mithras are in the Galleria Clementina, while a that continued until 1801 and resulted in the full length Ganymede is in the Galleria dei Candiscovery of an imperial palace and a temple delabri. In the Museo Gregoriano Profano are of Mithras.

Antinous and Hygeieia. Fagan’s acumen and knowledge of the classical world enabled him Aided by his high-level patronage and success to identify the sites of palatial villas likely to in finding antiquities, in 1793 Fagan obtained contain sculptures. It also informed his painting a coveted licence from the Reverenda Camera, style, resulting in increasingly confident Neoformerly known as the papal treasury, to excaClassical portraits. vate wherever he wished in Rome and the Papal States. The following year, working in the If antique sculptures were one formative inCampo Iemini near Torvaianica just south of fluence, another, equally important, was Lady Rome, he discovered a statue of Venus, a valuEmma Hamilton’s theatrical “attitudes”. The able Graeco-Roman work later gifted by Prince subject of many portraits by George Romney

“ ”

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 15

odoroki.it

ROMA • FIRENZE • MILANO • BRESCIA SERRAVALLE (AL) • MONTEBELLO

History and Élizabeth Vigée-Lebrun, Lady Hamilton was famous for her theatrical poses, in which she dressed in a variety of guises, assuming roles that crossed barriers of gender and class. A former model and dancer, her life, as with Fagan’s, was largely defined by self-invention. Fagan was to paint her portrait several times.

William Laffan has described Fagan’s tempestuous personality, and how, as a Catholic and a fierce republican, “he naturally alienated many British Grand Tourists, even refusing to show his pictures to Lady Knight on the grounds that she and her family were ‘enemies of the revolution’.” This nationalist feeling however did not prevent him from entering into profitable dealings with high-ranking British figures, including Emma Hamilton’s older husband Sir William Hamilton, ambassador to the Kingdom of Naples.

By 1796 the invasion of Rome by Napoleon’s armies was fast approaching and British citizens began to leave the city. When French troops finally arrived in Rome two years later, Fagan fled to Naples, his property being impounded by the French occupying forces. However, when things had quietened down, he made his way back to Rome, where his dealing activities were curtailed but not stopped. He was not slow about acquiring two great landscapes by Claude Lorrain, from the Palazzo Altieri, Landscape with the Father of Psyche sacrificing at the Temple of Apollo and Landscape with the Arrival of Aeneas before the City of Pallenteum. In 1799, Joseph Farington recorded that Fagan and Grignion had bought the two paintings from Prince Altieri for about £500, but they were then acquired by William Beckford, the English writer and patron of the arts, for more than ten times that amount. The paintings were smuggled to England under the protection of Lord Nelson, who by now was completely infatuated with his mistress, Emma Hamilton. Fagan was briefly imprisoned by the French for his role in the affair.

Noted for his spendthrift and extravagant way of life, Fagan was constantly in debt. In 1801 his first wife Anna Maria died, and six months later he married again, to another young Italian girl, Maria Ludovica Flajani. In a self-portrait with his second wife (Hunt Museum, Limerick), Fagan depicts himself as aloof and imperious, with

his bride, dressed ‘à la grecque’ by his side, gazing entreatingly at him. They were to have two children, Emilia, born around 1806, and George, born some seven years later.

In 1807 Fagan moved to Sicily, where he continued his excavations. Two years later, he was appointed British consul-general to the island.

Needless to say, his two main interests, dealing and diplomacy, were not easily reconcilable, and his career as a diplomat did not flourish. During this time, he continued to paint portraits, including a lively one of Marianne, Lady Acton, with her children Richard, Charles Januarius and Elizabeth (Ballyfin House, Ireland). He signed it "painted by Robert Fagan, His Britannic Majesty’s Consul General for Sicily 1809”.

The portrait was exhibited at the Royal Academy in 1815. The following year, Fagan, afflicted with melancholia, ended his life by throwing himself out of a window in Rome, leaving his young and impoverished widow obliged to sell his collection to the Vatican. His travel narrative, The Island of Sicily respecting its Antiquities, remained unfinished; the manuscript is now in the British Library. Fagan’s son George lived on in Italy, while George’s son Louis, who died in 1903, was a noted curator at the British Museum.

Peter Murray is an art historian who writes for several publications including The Irish Arts Review, where a longer version of this article was published in winter 2016-17.

Above. Portrait of Lady Emma Hamilton as Neapolitan Peasant, painted by Fagan in 1793.

Page 10. Anna Maria Ferri, the Artist's First Wife, painted

by Robert Fagan c.1790–2.

Page 11. Fagan's self-portrait with his second wife Maria Ludovica Flajani, painted in 1803.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 17

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ROME'S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, www.museivaticani.va.

Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. Mon-Sat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry.

For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel.

0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums

Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS Baths of Diocletian

Crypta Balbi

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed. Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

MAXXI

Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

National Museum of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00. Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Corsini

Borghese Museum

Museo Nazionale d’Arte Orientale

Castel S. Angelo Museum

Palazzo Altemps

Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria.borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paintings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio.

09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111, www.castelsantangelo.com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Colosseum, Roman forum and Palatine

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing). Guided tours in English and Italian.

20 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.30- 19.30. Tues closed.

Italy's museum of oriental art, formerly located on Via Merulana, is currently closed pending its reopening at Museo Nazionale Preistorico Etnografico Luigi Pigorini di Roma, Piazza Guglielmo Marconi 14 (EUR). For details see website, www.pigorini.beniculturali.it.

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Ancient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Palazzo Barberini

Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064824184, www.barberinicorsini.org. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.30- 19.30. Mon closed.

Palazzo Massimo alle Terme

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture,

coins and antiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.00- 19.45. Mon closed.

Villa Farnesina

Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS Centrale Montemartini

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, www.centralemontemartini.org. Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

Capitoline Museums

Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, www.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun.

Galleria Comunale d’Arte Moderna

Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The municipal modern art collection. 10.00- 18.00. Mon closed.

MACRO

Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00. Mon closed.

Museo Canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel. 060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

Museo Napoleonico

Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Guided tours in Italian and English.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS Casa di Goethe

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

Chiostro Del Bramante

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Mon-Fri 10.00-20.00. Sat-Sun 10.00-21.00.

Doria Pamphilj Gallery

Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

Galleria Colonna

Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel. 0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.00- 19.00. Mon closed.

Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it. Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only. Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

Museo di Roma – Palazzo Braschi

Giorgio De Chirico House Museum

Museo Barracco

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

Museo dei Fori Imperiali and Trajan’s Markets

Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, www.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00.

Guided tours in English, advance booking.

Keats-Shelley House

Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www.keats-shelley-house.org.

Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron.

Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00. Guided tours available on advance booking.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 21

ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES

1/9 Unosunove

1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. Architettura

Arte Moderna Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

Ex Elettrofonica

This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists.

Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163, www.exelettrofonica.com.

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

Fondazione Memmo

Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel.

0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

Fondazione Pastificio Cerere

This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits.

Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960, www.pastificiocerere.com.

22 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Fondazione Volume!

The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape. Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel. 06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume.com.

Franz Paludetto

Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

Frutta

This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988, www.fruttagallery.com.

Gagosian Gallery

The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists.

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch

This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper. Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

Galleria Il Segno

Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italia and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

Galleria Mucciaccia

Montoro 12

Giacomo Guidi Arte contemporanea

Nomas Foundation

Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

Galleria Valentina Moncada

This gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel.

063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com.

Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www.m12gallery.com.

Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel.

0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

Operativa Arte Contemporanea

A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

Pian de Giullari

A dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel.

0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions.

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 3397254235, 3663988603, www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com.

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Plus Arte Puls

La Nuova Pesa

RvB ARTS

Galleria Varsi

Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists.

Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

Monitor

This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

Monserrato Arte ‘900

This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel.

3482833034.

Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 3357010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www.rvbarts.com.

Sala 1

This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www.salauno.com.

S.T. Foto libreria galleria

Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art photography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

Studio Sales di Norberto Ruggeri

The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www.galleriasales.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 23

to do

Sun Mon Thu Wed 1

2

8

9

14

15

16

21

22

23

28

29

Kick off the New Year with a yoga or pilates class at one of the RYOGA centres.

Get a 20 per cent discount with your WIR card.

7

Get your carbonara fix at Eggs – a hip, friendly restaurant in Trastevere. www.eggsroma.it.

ART MUSIC FOOD NATURE CINEMA FAMILY THEATRE

Explora Children’s Museum hosts the Knots and Sails event for children aged 6-11. Receive 10 per cent off entry tickets with your WIR card. www.mdbr.it.

24 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Spend a cold afternoon exploring the Keats-Shelley House in Piazza di Spagna. www.keats-shelleyhouse.org.

Discover the spectacular visual journey of Pink Floyd: Their Mortal Remains at MACRO. www.museomacro.org.

Pick up a new book at Otherwise, Rome's newest English bookshop located near Piazza Navona. www.other wisebookshop.com.

3

10

Don't miss the chance to see the Bernini exhibition at the Galleria Borghese.

Reserve in advance. www.galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

17

Commemorate the protector of animals, S. Antonio Abate, and have your pet blessed at the church of S. Eusebio in Piazza Vittorio.

24

Join scholar Nasser Rabbat and designer Nader Tehrani in a discussion about Mediterranean architecture at the American Academy in Rome. www.aarome.org.

Tue

4

Fri

5

Attend a performance of The Nutcracker ballet at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma. 10 per cent off tickets with WIR card. www.operaroma.it.

Check out BeatleStory, a show to commemorate the Beatles' White Album, at Stazione Birra. www.stazionebirra.it.

11

12

18 25

Enjoy a ski day at Campo Felice, one of the easiest resorts to reach from Rome.

Get €4 off the price of your lift ticket with the WIR Card. www.campofelice.it.

19

Immerse yourself in the legacy of Einstein at the interactive Gravity exhibit at MAXXI. www.maxxi.art.

26

Jan Sat 2018 6

13 Bring your children to explore the activities at the Fabbrica Museo Cioccolato at the Fiera di Roma. www.fabbricamuseocioccolato.it.

20

27

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 25

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ALICE PASQUINI: THE UNCHANGING WORLD

CONVERSATION PIECE: PART IV

Celebrated street artist Alice Pasquini returns after three years to exhibit in her native city with a solo show at Philobiblon Gallery.

Her exhibition is described as an “introspective journey along the evolutionary path from childhood to adulthood.” The theme of the new work on display is familiar territory for Pasquini: a nostalgic nod to the halcyon days of our youth while pausing to reflect on how our early experiences shape our psyche. Pasquini is one of the few female exponents of street art working actively in the international arena. See cover of this edition of Wanted in Rome. Philobiblon Gallery, Via Antonio Bertoloni 45, www.philobiblon.org.

Under the title Giant steps are what you take, the Fondazione Memmo presents Conversation Piece | Part IV, the latest installment in its cycle of exhibitions dedicated to Italian and foreign artists, many of whom are working temporarily at Rome’s cultural academies. The exhibiting artists are Yto Barrada (American Academy), Eric Baudelaire (French Academy), Rossella Biscotti, Jörg Herold and Christoph Keller (German Academy) and Jakub Woynarowski. Fondazione Memmo, Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www.fondazionememmo.it.

20 Jan-16 Feb

PINK FLOYD: THEIR MORTAL REMAINS 19 Jan-29 April

The first international retrospective dedicated to the influential and experimental music group Pink Floyd comes to MACRO following its showing at London’s V&A. Billed as a spectacular audiovisual journey, the show chronicles five decades of Pink Floyd’s music, design and staging, from the band’s beginnings in the 1960s to the present day. The exhibition runs in chronological order, accompanied by the music and voices of the group’s past and present members. The show’s highlight is the Performance Zone, where visitors enter an immersive audiovisual space, featuring a 2005 performance of Comfortably Numb and including footage from the band’s legendary performance in Pompeii in 1971. Launching the exhibition in Rome’s city hall late last year, Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason said the band owed a “huge debt of gratitude” to the late David Bowie whose award-winning exhibition David Bowie IS in 2016 prompted the musicians into organising their own multimedia show. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, www.museomacro.org.

16 Dec-18 March

VERONICA DELLA PORTA: NESSUNA PROPRIETÀ PER LA MEMORIA 15 Dec-20 Jan

Veronica Della Porta presents ten works completed between 2009 and 2017 in her first show at MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea.

The exhibition’s title is inspired by the line Memory owns nothing from a 1962 poem by Wislawa Szymborska. Della Porta is a set and costume designer originally from Modena but based in Rome.

She is a photographer but not “in a traditional sense” according to the show’s curator Nora Iosia who says the ten exhibited works “play with memory, calling to mind a single fleeting instant.” MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

IL TESORO DI ANTICHITÀ 7 Dec-22 April

An exhibition at the Capitoline Museums pays tribute to German art historian and archaeologist Johann Joachim Winckelmann, considered the founder of modern archaeology, on the 300th anniversary of his birth. With a selection of 124 works and multimedia installations, the exhibition highlights the establishment of the Capitoline Museums in 1733 by Pope Clement XII as the

The Artisti all'Opera exhibition features reproductions of Picasso's designs for Parade. See article page 6.

first public museum in Europe. It also celebrates the groundbreaking classical studies of Winckelmann during his Roman years when he served as the prefect of antiquities and scriptor at the Vatican in the mid-18th century. The exhibition is in line with other events around Europe celebrating Winckelmann.

Capitoline Museums, Piazza del Campidoglio 1, www.museicapitolini.org.

GRAVITY: IMAGING THE UNIVERSE AFTER EINSTEIN 2 Dec-29 April

MAXXI honours the scientific legacy of Albert Einstein with an exhibition exploring the “interconnected key concepts of space-time, crises, confines.” The show coincides with the centenary of Einstein’s publication of a ground-breaking article which challenged existing models of the cosmos and the universe, ultimately revolutionising modern-day concepts of time and space. The exhibition examines the connections between art and science, paying tribute to Einstein through artistic and scientific installations by international artists.

MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4/a, www.maxxi.art.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 29

STILL SHOWING ANDREAS GURSKY: BANGKOK 14 Dec-3 March

The Gagosian Gallery marks its tenth anniversary in Rome with an exhibition of photographs by German artist Andreas Gursky, on view for the first time in Italy.

The show comprises works from the Bangkok series (2011), centred on the Thai capital’s fast-flowing Chao Phraya at close range, and the monumental Ocean VI (2010), for which he used high-definition satellite photographs to generate his own interpretations of sea and land. Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

MOTO ONDOSO STABILE 3 Dec-17 Feb

A group exhibition at z2o Sara Zanin Gallery offers a “fresh reflection on certain specific aspects of the medium of painting.” The show takes its cue from Anne Tyler’s 1977 short story Average Waves in Unprotected Waters, recalling the idea of an irregular surface permeated by irrepressible, continuous movement. z2o Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, tel.

0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

TRAIANO: COSTRUIRE L’IMPERO, CREARE L’EUROPA 29 Nov–16 Sept

Major show dedicated to Emperor Trajan on the 1,900th anniversary of his death. In addition to outlining his public and private persona, the exhibition puts a particular emphasis on Trajan’s legacy as a “360° builder”, not just of infrastructure but also his innovative economic policies and programme of architectural works. On display are archaeological artefacts from museums in Rome and around the world, including statues, portraits and architectural decorations, alongside multimedia and interactive installations. Mercati Traianei, Via Quattro Novembre, www.mercatiditraiano.it.

30 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

PAX PALOSCIA - ALICE: DOWN TO THE RABBIT HOLE

MASSIMILIANO ALIOTO: GHOSTS?

Galleria Rosso20sette presents an exhibition of recent paintings, drawings, video and photographs

by Roman artist and illustrator Pax Paloscia who is based between Rome and New York. The works on display are themed around the “themes and contradictions of adolescence.” Galleria Rosso20sette, Via del Sudario 39, www.rosso27. com.

The Museo Hendrik Andersen hosts an exhibition of paintings, drawings and installations that suggest “apparitions and appearances between reality and vision, dream and memory, philological reconstruction and imagination.”

The works by Brindisi artist Massimiliano Alioto are exhibited alongside the 200 monumental plaster and bronze sculptures by the Norwegian artist Hendrik Christian Andersen, from whom the museum takes its name. Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini 20, tel.

063219089, www.museoandersen. beniculturali.it.

25 Nov-13 Jan

GIANNI PIACENTINO: WORKS 1966-2017 24 Nov-15 Jan

The 30 works in this exhibition by Gianni Piacentino date from 1966 to the present day, and follow the Turin artist’s most recent shows at the Center d’Art Contemporain in Geneva and the Prada Foundation in Milan. Born in 1945 Piacentino is associated with the Arte Povera and Minimalism movements, and is known for his sculpture and painting inspired by motorcycles, automobiles and planes. Galleria Mucciaccia, Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

ANTONIETTA RAPHAËL MAFAI 23 Nov-21 Jan

Exhibition comprising around 50 works, many of them never shown publicly before, by painter and sculptor Antonietta Raphaël Mafai (1895-1975). The Lithuanian artist is best known for her role in founding the Scuola Romana in 1928, together with her husband Mario Mafai at their home on Via Cavour in Rome. The movement was characterised by expressionist and neo-classical influences, documenting the artists’ daily surroundings, including the fascist demolitions of central Rome. The exhibition presents works by Raphaël Mafai from the 1920s until her death, revealing her prevalent themes: female nudes, portraits, maternity and fertility, as well as her Jewish heritage.

Museo Carlo Bilotti, Aranciera, Viale Fiorello La Guardia 4, tel.

060608, www.museocarlobilotti.it.

23 Nov-4 Feb

ARTISTI ALL’OPERA 17 Nov-11 March

Palazzo Braschi explores the relationship between Rome’s opera house and artists of international renown, from 1881 to today. The artists who have worked with Teatro dell’Opera include Pablo Picasso, as well as major Italian painters Renato Guttuso, Giorgio De Chirico and Giacomo Manzù, up to present-day designers and directors such as Valentino, Sofia Coppolla and William Kentridge. The show comprises the artists’ set designs, costumes, paintings, sketches and maquettes. It also shows ar-

Giuseppe Arcimboldo exhibition at Palazzo Barberini. La Primavera.

chive film footage, with a different opera aria in each room. See article page 2. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10 (Piazza Navona), tel. 060608, www.museodiroma.it.

FILIPPO LIPPI 17 Nov-18 Feb

With the title Altro Rinascimento: Il giovane Filippo Lippi e la Madonna di Tarquinia, this exhibition at Palazzo Barberini celebrates the centenary of the rediscovery of Our Lady of Tarquinia, painted by the young Filippo Lippi in 1437. The work was considered fundamental in the career of the Florentine artist as it documented a break-away from the stiff style of Masaccio and was influenced by the novelties introduced by Donatello during the third decade of the 15th century.

Lippi’s masterpiece is displayed among several of his other pieces from the same era, alongside works

by Masaccio and Donatello. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, www.barberinicorsini. org.

I GRANDI MAESTRI: 100 ANNI DI FOTOGRAFIA LEICA 16 Nov-18 Feb

The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition highlighting the important role of Leica cameras in the evolution of modern photography. The show comprises more than 350 original prints by some of the world’s most celebrated photographers along with vintage posters and archive documents from the 1920s onwards. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www.ilvittoriano.com.

HOME BEIRUT: SOUNDING THE NEIGHBORS 15 Nov-20 May

This exhibition examines Beirut from the perspective of creative resistance, artistic innovation and hope, through more than 100 works by artists, architects, filmmakers, musicians, dancers, researchers and activists. The exhibition also highlights the diverse ways in which conflict, memory

and the future are expressed in the work of these 36 artists. Part of the MAXXI series Interactions across the Mediterranean, which explores the relationship between Europe and the Middle East. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.maxxi.art.

BERNINI

1 Nov-4 Feb

Rome’s Galleria Borghese celebrates the 20th anniversary of its reopening with an exhibition dedicated to Gian Lorenzo Bernini, whose spectacular sculptures are among the highlights of the museum’s collection. The exhibition includes numerous loans of Bernini works from important international collections. Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel.

068413979, www.galleriaborghese. beniculturali.it.

JIM DINE: HOUSE OF WORDS 27 Oct-3 Feb

The prestigious Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca presents House of Words, an exhibition of works by Jim Dine, the American exponent of Pop Art and the Neo-Dada movement.

The exhibition celebrates Dine’s election as an academician by the Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca, joining its ranks of foreign academics. The show comprises the artist’s entire recent series of Black Paintings, created in his Parisian studio in 2015, along with his installation The Flowering Sheets (Poet Singing).

Piazza dell’Accademia di S. Luca 77, www.accademiasanluca.eu/it.

TOTÒ GENIO

20 Oct-18 Feb

The Museo di Roma in Trastevere traces the multi-faceted figure of Antonio de Curtis, better known by his stage name Totò, on the 50th anniversary of his death. The exhibition highlights how this oldstyle entertainer was not only a celebrated comedian and actor of stage and screen but also a poet and song-writer. Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www.museodiromaintrastevere.it.

è solo un inizio: 1968 at GNAM. Italia rovesciata by Luciano Fabro.

GIUSEPPE ARCIMBOLDO 19 Oct-11 Feb

Palazzo Barberini presents an exhibition of more than 70 works by Giuseppe Arcimboldo (1526-1593), an Italian painter best known for creating imaginative portrait heads made entirely of objects such as fruits, vegetables, flowers, fish and books. Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www.barberinicorsini.org.

MONET

19 Oct-28 Jan

The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition devoted to Monet, the father of Impressionism, with some 60 works from the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, including landscapes, portraits and his celebrated garden series of water lilies. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www.ilvittoriano.com.

FRANCESCO TROMBADORI: L’ESSENZIALE VERITÀ DELLE COSE 13 Oct-11 Feb

Rome’s municipal modern art gallery on Via Francesco Crispi examines the close connection between the Sicilian-born painter Francesco Trombadori (18861961) and his adopted Rome. The

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 31

cal context of the era. Curated by Ester Coen, the exhibition features Italian and international artists belonging to movements such as minimalism, conceptualism, land art and arte povera. The artists include Joan Jonas, Jannis Kounellis, Yayoi Kusama, Sol LeWitt, Richard Long, Richard Moore, Luigi Ontani, Christo, Giosetta Fioroni and Andy Warhol. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel.

0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale.com.

Dinosaur Invasion exhibition at the Guido Reni District.

60 paintings on display, painted between 1915 and 1961, span the career of Trombadori who was a prominent figure in the Scuola Romana art movement. The show also includes drawings, catalogues and newspaper articles from the artist’s archives, housed in his former studio at Villa Strohl-Fern.

Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

MANGASIA: WONDERLANDS OF ASIAN COMICS 7 Oct-21 Jan

A comprehensive look at Asian comic books, displaying original cartoons alongside their publications as well as scripts, sketches and layout designs. The works on display come from Japan, North Korea, South Korea, India, China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines and Singapore. The exhibition also includes illustrations from emerging comic book scenes such as Bhutan, Cambodia, East Timor, Mongolia and Vietnam. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel.

0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni.it.

È SOLO UN INIZIO: 1968 3 Oct-14 Jan

On the 50th anniversary of the 1968 protests that shook London, Paris, Berlin and Rome, the Galleria Nazionale examines the role of art within the social and politi-

32 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ENJOY: L’ARTE INCONTRA IL DIVERTIMENTO 23 Sept-25 Feb

With the subtitle Art Meets Amusement, this immersive exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante features modern art works and site-specific installations by some of the world’s “most prominent and provocative protagonists of contemporary art”.

Highlights of the show include the mobiles of Alexander Calder, Michael Lin’s floral floor, Matt Collishaw’s mesmerising zootrope, the neverending labyrinth of Leandro Erlich’s mirrors, the disturbing eye installations of Tony Oursler and the spectacular illusory effects of TeamLab’s light works. The show is a feast for the senses and will appeal to both children and adults.

Visitors will leave wonderfully disorientated. Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace (Piazza Navona area), tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

REAL BODIES

30 Sept-10 Feb

Exhibition dedicated to the human body and its organs, muscles and skeletal system. The highlight of the 350 exhibits is the series of 12 entire bodies immortalised in a variety of sporting positions, such as running and jumping, demonstrating how our muscles and tendons work. There are also four other parallel exhibits at the same venue, aimed primarily at younger visitors, including: Dinosaur Invasion, Cosmos Discovery, Scientopolis, and the Brikmania lego show. Guido Reni District, Via Guido Reni 7, www.realbodies.it.

PICASSO: TRA CUBISMO E CLASSICISMO 1915-1925 22 Sept-21 Jan

The Scuderie del Quirinale presents one of the largest exhibitions ever dedicated to Picasso in Italy, a century after the artist set foot in the country. The show examines Italy’s long-term impact on Picasso’s work – his inspiration from ancient Roman statues and erotic frescoes in Pompeii – and his private life – he met his first wife, the Russian ballet dancer Olga Khokhlova in Rome while he designed the costumes and sets for the ballet Parade.

The 100 works on display range from 1915 to 1925, comprising Cubism to Classicism, with loans from major museums in London, Paris, New York, Berlin and Barcelona. The show includes masterpieces such as Olga in an Armchair (1917), Léonide Massine as Harelquin (1917), Two Women Running on the Beach (1922), and Harlequin with mirror (1923). In addition to the Scuderie, Palazzo Barberini hosts an immense canvas that Picasso painted as the backdrop for Parade, the reason for his arrival in Italy in February 1917. See related article page 2. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0639967500, www.scuderiequirinale.it.

ZAHA HADID AND ITALY 23 June-28 Jan

MAXXI hosts an exhibition dedicated to the Italian projects of the late architect Zaha Hadid, including the recently-opened Terminal Marittimo in Salerno, the Messner Mountain Museum in Plan de Corones, the almost complete City Life project in Milan and the MAXXI building itself. The exhibition comprises plans and threedimensional models designed by the Iraqi architect, who had an intensive and enduring relationship with Italy until her death in March 2016. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www. fondazionemaxxi.it.

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com.

Quadriennale artistic director Sarah Cosulich Canarutto.

Photo Michele D'Ottavio.

ART NEWS PANTHEON TO CHARGE €2 ENTRY FEE

Visitors to Rome's Pantheon will have to pay a €2 entry fee from 2 May. The fee, which has been mooted for the last two years, follows an agreement reached between the Italian culture ministry and the capital's diocesan authorities. As a place of worship, visiting the Pantheon is currently free in line with the custom of the Rome vicariate which does not charge entry fees for churches. Under the new arrangement tourist visits will be suspended during religious services which will not incur an entry fee. Part of the funds raised from ticket sales will go towards maintenance and management costs of the ancient monument which attracts around seven million visitors a year.

NEW HEAD OF COLOSSEUM ARCHAEOGICAL PARK

Italian archaeologist Alfonsina Russo has been named the new head of the Colosseum archaeological park which, in addition to the Colosseum, includes the Roman Forum, the Palatine Hill and the Domus Aurea. Russo beat 77 other candidates, of whom around 15 per cent were non-Italian, to land the four-year post which has an annual salary of €145,000. A specialist in classical archaeology, Russo will be responsible for the overall management of the archaeological park as well as the implementation and development of its cultural and scientific projects. Russo’s appointment comes four months after Italy’s top administrative court overturned a previous regional court ruling against the government’s plan to establish the new archaeological park. Rome mayor Virginia Raggi had opposed the archaeological park on the grounds that it would be “harmful to the interests of Roma Capitale”, referring to the fact that under the new plan the city would only receive 30 per cent of ticket sales proceeds from the Colosseum and Forum. The appointment of Russo is the final chapter in a protracted attempt by the government to push through a decree by Italian culture minister Dario Franceschini, designed to streamline the management of the capital’s archaeological sites, increase visitor numbers and offer better services.

NEW ARTISTIC DIRECTOR AT ROME QUADRIENNALE

Sarah Cosulich Canarutto has been appointed artistic director of the 17th Rome Quadriennale, a major show to promote prevailing trends in contemporary Italian art, taking place in the capital in 2020. Cosulich Canarutto is the former director of Turin’s important contemporary art fair Artissima whose programme she expanded significantly during her five-year tenure from 2012-2016. She will now be tasked with coordinating the planning of the Quadriennale over the next three years. Although the details of the programme are not yet known, the Quadriennale is expected to last a full year and have an international dimension – a major departure for an exhibition that has, traditionally, had Italian art as its focal point.

The Quadriennale was first held in Rome in 1931 and its most recent edition, in late 2016, was held at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni. With a degree in art history from the US and a masters in contemporary art criticism from London, Cosulich Canarutto was selected as the Quadriennale’s artistic director from a list of 116 candidates.

HOMAGE TO CARAVAGGIO AT GEMELLI HOSPITAL

Italian street artist Andrea Ravo Mattoni has recreated The Seven Works of Mercy, painted by Caravaggio circa 1607, in an outdoor mural at Rome’s Gemelli hospital. Inaugurated on 13 December, the 9.5m-high work was painted on the gable end of a residence dedicated to the hospital’s patients and their relatives. The work is the latest in a series of large open-air murals by the Varese artist, known in the art world as Ravo, who uses spray paint to replicate classic works by Caravaggio.

Andy Devane

34 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

38

Wanted in Rome | December 2017

Jazz pianist Enrico Pieranunzi plays music by Scarlatti.

is less well known than his contemporaries. His work is considered fundamental for the development of late 17th-century baroque music in Rome. La Sete di Christo places four protagonists at the foot of the cross, the Virgin Mary, St John, Joseph of Arimathea and Nicodemus. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ENRICO PIERANUNZI 1 Feb

classical ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA #DARKLIGHT FLORALEDA SACCHI

Jazz pianist Enrico Pieranunzi plays ten sonatas by Domenico Scarlatti. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

CONCERTO DE’ CAVALLIERI 8 Feb

This ensemble that specialises in baroque music plays work by Vivaldi, Torelli, Corelli and Handel, conducted

by Marcello Di Lisa and with trombone soloist Andrea Di Mario. Teatro Argentina, Largo Argentina. www. filarmonicaromana.org.

16 Jan

A concert for harp and live electronics. Floraleda Sacchi is considered one of the most exciting international performers of modern electronic harp music, as well as being a composer for the theatre and cinema. Here she plays the pedal harp as well as the Celtic and electro harp. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA

PROSPETTIVA DEBUSSY

Valery Gergiev conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus playing Tchaikovsky’s Iolanthe (on 11, 12, 13 Jan) and then his own Mariinsky Orchestra performing Tchaikovsky’s 1st and 6th symphonies on 14 Jan, his 2nd and 5th on 15 Jan, and his 3rd and 4th on 16 Jan. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

21 Jan-22 April

Six concerts of Debussy’s chamber music in conjunction with the Accademia S. Cecilia. In the first concert on 21 Jan Maddalena Glacopuzzi piano plays two arabesques and the suite Bergamasque, and Axel Trolese piano plays 12 Debussy études. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

LA SETE DI CRISTO

BY BERNARDO PASQUINI 25 Jan

Pasquini’s music had a considerable influence on Stradella, Scarlatti and even Handel although today he

TCHAIKOVSKY FESTIVAL VALERY GERGIEV 11-13 and 14-16 Jan

ROBERTO GONZALES-MONJAS ALEXANDER LONQUICH 17 Jan

Violinist Roberto Gonzales-Monjas and pianist Alexander Lonquich play Beethoven and Mozart sonatas. Sala Sinopoli, Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ANNE SOPHIE MUTTER 18-20 Jan

Anne Sophie Mutter performs Beethoven’s violin concerto conducted by Antonio Pappano. The programme also includes the tone poem Ein Heldenleben by Richard Strauss which contains many references to his previous works, especially Also sprach Zarathustra. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

MAURIZIO BAGLINI BEETHOVEN’S 9TH SYMPHONY 24 Jan

Italian pianist Maurizio Baglini plays Liszt’s arrangeAnne Sophie Mutter is conducted

by Antonio Pappano at S. Cecilia.

36 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

ment of Beethoven’s 9th symphony with the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia conducted by Antonio Pappano. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

DANIELE GATTI 1-3 Feb

Daniele Gatti conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus performing Schumman’s 1st and 4th symphonies as well as his Nachtlied. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

LOUIS LORTIE 5 Feb

French Canadian pianist Louis Lortie plays Chopin’s Études. Chopin composed three sets of études for the piano. The composer’s studies for the piano, 27 in all, were technically audacious for the time and were the first to become a part of the concert repertoire. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI ILIA KIM 13 Jan

South Korean pianist Ilia Kim performs music by Debussy. The concert is subtitled Debussy, Pre-Raphaelite, Impressionist, Symbolist and Abstract. It will be preceded by a discussion forum on the connection between Debussy and the figurative arts. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ISSERLIS-MUSTONEN 16 Jan

Steven Isserlis on the cello and Olli Mustonen on the piano perform music by Schumman, Kabalevski, Prokofiev and the premiere of a sonata for cello and piano composed by postmodernist Mustonen. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

FAZIL SAY 23 Jan

Turkish pianist and composer Fazil Say returns to the IUC to perform music by Chopin, Beethoven and Satie and some of his own works. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

VOCI SACRE TRE FEDI UN SOLO DIO 27 Jan

An evening of music sacred to the three faiths of Judaism, Christianity and Islam to be performed for the first time in Rome. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

Olli Mustonen, Finnish pianist, composer and conductor, plays one of his own compositions at the IUC.

MESSIAEN QUARTET FOR THE END OF TIME 10 Feb

Pietro de Maria piano, Marco Rizzi violin, Enrico Dindo cello and Alessandro Carbinare clarinet play music

by Debussy as well as Messiaen's quartet For the End of Time. Messiaen’s composition was first performed in 1941 in the prisoner of war camp in Görlitz in Germany where Messiaen was confined. The composition was determined by the instruments and the players available. The headings for the movements are taken from the Bible’s Book of Revelation. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it.

ORATORIO DEL GONFALONE MIRIAM PRANDI ALEXANDER GADJIEV 18 Jan

Miriam Prandi cello and Alexander Gadjiev piano play music by Schumann, Bach, Debussy and Brahms. Via del Gonfalone 32/A, www.oratoriogonfalone.com.

ENTRE ITALIA Y ESPAÑA 25 JAN

The music focuses on 16th-early 18th century guitar compositions. Via del Gonfalone 32/A, www.oratoriogonfalone.com.

MUSIC IN ROME CHURCHES There are often concerts and festivals in several churches in Rome.

All Saints’ Anglican Church, Via Babuino 153, www. allsaintsrome.org.

Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church, Ponte S. Angelo, www.methodistchurchrome.com.

St Paul’s Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Napoli, www.stpaulsrome.it.

S. Agnese in Agone, Sagrestia del Borromini, Piazza Navona.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 37

pop, rock, jazz

English indie rock band alt-J plays the Palalottomatica on 1 February.

next year. The concerts come three years after his last performance at the Baths of Caracalla. For ticket deLuca Di Cataldo and Matteo Caminotails see website. Auditorium Parco li front the project whose music is della Musica, Via Pietro de Couknown for its psychedelic sounds bertin, www.auditorium.com. and distorted vocals. Monk, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel. 0664850987, www.monkroma.it.

WEIRD BLOOM 12 Jan

PEARL JAM 26 June

JOANA SERRAT 16 Jan

Unplugged in Monti presents an acoustic performance by Spanish singer-songwriter Joana Serrat at Blackmarket. The folk singer has a “genuine, soft voice capable of opening new horizons”, according to Rolling Stone magazine. As usual there are only 50 tickets which must be reserved in advance. For details see Unplugged in Monti website. BlackMarket, Via Panisperna 101, www. unpluggedinmonti.com.

ALT-J 1 Feb

This English indie rock band, formed ten years ago in Leeds, performs at Rome’s Palalottomatica. The band’s best known hits include Breezeblocks whose controversial but award-winning video has been viewed almost 150 million times on Youtube. Palalottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport, EUR. For tickets see Live Nation website, www.livenation.it.

BOB DYLAN 3-5 April

The Auditorium Parco della Musica has announced its first big name of 2018: Bob Dylan who will perform three concerts on 3, 4 and 5 April

38 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Tickets have gone on sale for Pearl Jam’s concert in Rome’s Olympic Stadium this summer, as part of the band’s 14-date European tour. A key exponent of the Seattle grunge movement, Pearl Jam was one of the most successful alternative rock groups of the 1990s. For tickets see Pearl Jam website, www.pearljam.com. Stadio Olimpico, Viale dei Gladiatori.

Pearl Jam will perform in Rome this summer.

ROGER WATERS 14 July

Pink Floyd founding member Roger Waters will perform in Rome’s Circus Maximus this summer, five years after his last show in the city’s Stadio Olimpico. The Us and Them concert, promoted by Rock in Roma, will see Waters perform songs from Pink Floyd classic albums such as Dark Side of the Moon, The Wall, Animals and Wish You Were Here. Fellow Pink Floyd founding member David Gilmour played at the Circus Maximus in 2016 but there were no concerts there last year. Waters’ performance in Rome will follow the upcoming exhibition Pink Floyd: Their Mortal Remains exhibition at MACRO, see page 23. For full details of concert tickets see Rock in Roma website, www.rockinroma.com.

Roger Waters is to perform at the Circus Maximus on 14 July.

Pink Floyd Ballet is part of the Soiree Francaise programme at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma.

MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA DAME AUX CAMELIAS 17 Dec-13 Jan

The ever-popular stars Svetlana Zakaharova and Roberto Bolle dance in La Dame aux Camelias with choreography by John Neumeier. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza Filodrammatici 1, www.teatroallascala.org.

GOLDBERG-VARIATIONEN 25 Jan-22 March

JS Bach’s Goldberg Variations are set to a choreography by Heinz Spoerli. The work is staged for the first time at La Scala although it was created in 1993.

It comes after the success of Spoerli’s Cello Suites in 2015 which inaugurated the series of ballets set to chamber music. The dancers of La Scala ballet company are accompanied on the piano by Alexey Botvinov. Spoerli turned to dance making – he would rather be called a dance maker than a choreographer – after a career as a dancer and company director. He retired from the Zurich Ballet five years ago but the company is still committed to preserving his extensive repertoire of the reworking of many classical works as well as his own creations. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza Filodrammatici 1, www. teatroallascala.org.

ROME AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA

dance

FESTIVAL DI DANZA SPAGNOLA E FLAMENCO 8-16 Jan

This new festival features some of the best contemporary flamenco dancers and choreographers including Patricia Guerrero, Rafael Campallo Manuel Liñán, the company Nova Galega de Danza, as well as the pianist Alfonso Aroca. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

be no longer than 15 minutes and which will be judged by an international jury – are scheduled for 2425 March. The winner, who will be announced the day after the last performance, will be awarded €10,000 to put towards a 50-minute production of the selected choreography to be performed at Auditorium Parco della Musica later in the year.

TEATRO DELL'OPERA DI ROMA

SOIRÉE FRANÇAISE LES ETOILES 28 Jan-3 Feb GALA INTERNAZIONALE DI DANZA Suite en Blanc with music by Edouard 27-28 Jan

This annual dance event gives Rome’s ballet enthusiasts a chance to see some of the top international stars from the world’s best ballet companies. Jacopo Tissi, the only Italian in the Bolshoi, will appear with two other Bolshoi names, Eughenia Obraztsova and Semyon Chudin; Tiler Peck, who is at present with the New York City Ballet; Marianela Nunez and Vadim Muntagirov who are with the Royal Ballet; Leonore Baulac and Hugo Marchand from the Opera di Parigi.

There will also be a performance by a surprise star, whose name will only be announced at the last moment. The programme features both classical and contemporary works. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

PREMIO EQUILIBRIO

The annual competition to promote young choreographers starts again in January with the deadline for entries on 27 Jan. The top ten selected works will be published on 17 Feb. Public performances of the chosen choreographies – which should

Lalo and choreography by Serge Lifar conducted by Carlo Donadio, with Eleonora Abbagnato, the director of the Teatro dell’Opera ballet company (on 28 Jan), Rebecca Bianchi and Claudio Cocino. Pink Floyd Ballet with music by Pink Floyd and choreography by Roland Petit, with principal dancers and star of the Teatro dell’Opera. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Teatro Costanzi.

Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

TEATRO VASCELLO TRILOGÌA 15-17 Jan

Michele Pogliani and his MP3 Project is back at the Teatro Vascello with his new work Trilogia. Pogliani worked in the United States with the Lucinda Childs Company among others and then back in Italy with the Balletto di Toscana, Balletto del Teatro Nuovo di Torino and with the Balletto di Roma.

He is now immersed in his MP3 Project to train professional dancers and create videos for the world of dance.

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, www.teatrovascello.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 39

opera

ROME I MASNADIERI

BY VERDI 21 Jan-4 Feb

The popular Viennese opera Die Fledermaus

by Johann Strauss will be performed at La Scala for the first time.

MILAN DIE FLEDERMAUS

BY JOHANN STRAUSS 19 Jan-7 Feb

This new production of the comic opera by Johann Strauss is being performed at La Scala for the first time, conducted by Zubin Mehta. It is also the first opera for Austrian theatre director Cornelius Obonya. Eva Mei sings the part of Rosalinda and Peter Sonn is Einstein.

Choreography is by Heinz Spoerli. Die Fledermaus was first performed in Vienna in 1874 and has been part of the Viennese repertoire ever since. However it is not often performed outside the German-speaking world and then mainly at smaller opera houses. Unusually there will be a couple of performances at Montpellier Opera in June. So the staging at La Scala will be a production to interest opera buffs. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

The Teatro dell’Opera di Roma is staging a new production of Verdi’s opera, conducted by Roberto Abbado and directed by Massimo Popolizio. I Masnadieri was first performed in London in 1847 at Her Majesty’s Theatre with Verdi conducting the first two performances. The commission came in the wake of Verdi’s success with Ernani and was reasonably popular for several decades in both Italy and England but then was almost forgotten until its revival in the 1950s. Popolizio is best known as a stage, cinema and television actor and director. The cast, which is almost all Italian, includes Riccardo Zanellato bass as Massimiliano, Stefano Secco tenor as Carlo and Roberta Mantegna soprano as Amelia. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www.operaroma.it.

LA SONNAMBULA

BY BELLINI 18 Feb-3 March

Speranza Scappucci is back at the Rome opera house to conduct Bellini’s opera, directed by Giorgio Barberio Corsetti. This is a new production in conjunction with the Teatro Petruzelli of Bari. Australian belcanto soprano Jessica Pratt takes the role of Amina, alternating with Jessica Nuccio. Riccardo Zanellato follows up his part in I Masnadieri with the role of Count Rodolfo, alternating with Dario Russo. Maria Callas at La Scala in the 1950s and Joan Sutherland at the Royal Opera House and the Met in the 1960s both gave memorable performances in the role of Amina. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www.operaroma.it.

opera notes Il secondo titolo operistico della stagione 2017/18 del Teatro dell’Opera di Roma è I masnadieri di Giuseppe Verdi (21 gennaio-4 febbraio). Una vera rarità per l’Ente Lirico della capitale, visto che l’ultima rappresentazione risale al 1972. Adesso vi torna con un nuovo allestimento firmato da Massimo Popolizio, nome di spicco tra gli attori e i doppiatori italiani. Da poco approdato al teatro di prosa come regista, è adesso al suo debutto nel mondo della lirica. Con Massimo Popolizio a dividere gli oneri e gli eventuali onori di questa edizione romana de I masnadieri ci saranno il direttore d’orchestra Roberto Abbado e come interpreti principali il soprano Roberta Mantegna, il tenore Stefano Secco, il baritono Artur Ruciński e il basso Riccardo Zanellato. I masnadieri ebbe la sua prima all’Her Majesty’s Theatre di Londra il 22 luglio 1847 alla presenza della regina Vittoria e del principe Alberto, con schierati il Parlamento tutto e la più alta società londinese. Fecero «furore - come scrisse Emanuele Muzio allievo e amico di Giuseppe Verdi - Il Maestro fu festeggiato, chiamato nel palco, solo e con gli attori, gli furono gettati dei fiori, e non si udiva altro che: evviva Verdi! bietifol». Vi cantarono due grandi divi dell’epoca: Jenny Lind e Luigi Lablache. Il soprano, detto l’usignolo svedese, aveva una voce sonora, omogenea, dolce, argentina e molto estesa: arrivava fino al FA sopracuto. Sapeva eseguire le agilità più difficili e spettacolari e possedeva dei pianissimi fascinosi, che alternati a suoni più corposi e vibranti producevano sorprendenti e ammirati effetti d’eco. Il basso Lablache fu un celebre e celebrato primo interprete di molte opere di Donizetti e di Bellini. È singolare che avesse interpretato lo stesso ruolo dei Masnadieri ne I briganti di Saverio Mercadante al Théâtre-Italien di Parigi undici anni prima. www.operaroma.it.

Il Teatro Massimo di Palermo inaugura la nuova stagione lirica con Guillaume Tell di Gioachino Rossini (23-31

40 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

opera notes gennaio). L’opera è proposta in occasione del 150° anniversario della morte del suo autore, avvenuta a Passy, nei pressi di Parigi, il 13 novembre 1868. È proposta in un allestimento curato dal regista Damiano Michieletto, già visto alla Royal Opera House, Covert Garden, di Londra due anni fa e clamorosamente contestato dal pubblico per la trasformazione – tra l’altro – delle danze in un’esplicita e dura scena di stupro collettivo.

Vedremo ora come reagirà il pubblico palermitano che, stando a come accolse Carmen di Bizet inscenata da Calixto Bieito nel 2011 e nel 2016, sembra poco incline a scandalizzarsi di fronte a spettacoli provocatori e arditi. La direzione del Guillaume Tell spetterà a Gabriele Ferro (il direttore musicale del Teatro Massimo) mentre i ruoli principali a Roberto Frontali (il protagonista) e a Dmitry Korchak con Nino Machaidze, negli abiti dell’immancabile coppia di innamorati romantici. Guillaume Tell è l’ultima opera composta da Gioachino Rossini che ebbe la sua prima all’Opéra di Parigi il 3 agosto 1829. Il libretto, al pari di quello dei Masnadieri verdiani, fu tratto da un dramma di Friedrich Schiller dallo stesso titolo, e racconta in forma romanzata e leggendaria la nascita della Svizzera come stato federale. www.teatromassimo.it.

Paolo Di Nicola

Giuseppe Cederna in Mozart: Il sogno di un clown for Teatro India.

TheaTRE

TEATRO INDIA

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB

THE RIVALS

Teatro India hosts Mozart: Il sogno di un clown. The success, humiliation, pain and love behind the story of Mozart, whose music is played live to accompany Giuseppe Cederna in his monologue. In Italian. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel.

0687752210, www.teatrodiroma.net.

Rome’s Comedy Club holds its monthly evening of hilarity – in English – at the Makai Surf and Tiki Bar in Ostiense/Piramide area. The January line-up includes club founder Marsha De Salvatore alongside Jose Salgado, Devo Sullivan Sinnott and Francesco De Carlo. Rome’s Comedy Club holds its events every last Friday of the month, with an entrance fee of €15 which includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine and the show. Doors open at 20.00, show starts at 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) should be made via Whatsapp 3397514140 or email: alessio.esposito@gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

The Rome Savoyards and Plays in Rome present The Rivals, a comedy of manners, by Richard Brinsley Sheridan. First performed at Covent Garden in 1775, the play concerns the romantic difficulties of Lydia Languish, who is determined to marry for love and into poverty.

Claiming to be Ensign Beverley, the aristocratic Captain Jack Absolute woos her, however in order to marry him she must first obtain the permission of her aunt Mrs Malaprop. Directed by Sandra Provost. In English. 30 Jan-2 Feb 20.30. 3-4 Feb 17.30. For tickets tel.

3478248661 or email playsinrome@ yahoo.com. Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1 (Viale Mazzini), www. romesavoyards.it.

10-21 Jan

TEATRO VITTORIA 11-28 Jan

Il Diavolo Certamente. Six passengers, all perfect strangers, plus the ticket inspector, meet in the sixth compartment of the sixth carriage on the night train from Palermo to Turin. In Italian. Teatro Vittoria, Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice 10, Testaccio, tel. 065781960, www. teatrovittoria.it.

27 Jan

30 Jan-4 Feb

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 41

ACADEMIES

and on Sat mornings. The visits are free and bookings can only be made by telephone. To reserve your place tel. 0694844655 but bear in mind that there is often strong demand for the tours which are booked up quickly. The institute’s gardens are the work of renowned garden designer Ken Nakajima, who was also responsible for the Japanese section of the botanic gardens in Trastevere. They feature cherry trees, wisteria, irises and dwarf pines, as well as a waterfall, ponds and an ornamental bridge. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, www.jfroma.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 20 Oct-20 Jan

The Swiss Institute of Rome presents From Berlin with Love, an exhibition featuring the work of ten Swiss artists living in the German capital: Tina Braegger, Emilie Ding, Edgars Gluhovs, Swetlana Heger, Charlotte Herzig, Andreas Hochuli, David Hominal, Samuel Jeffery, Flora Klein and Kaspar Müller. Exhibition organisers say the show is designed to “stimulate links between artists who are perhaps still strangers in Berlin, inviting them instead to imagine themselves being together, for a period of time, in Rome.” Istituto Svizzero di Roma, Villa Maraini, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

Collezionare al Corso exhibiton at Casa di Goethe. Pini a Villa Pamphilj by Ferdinand Konrad Bellermann.

AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 11 Jan

Fluidity. A conversation by noted scholar of architecture Nasser Rabbat and cutting-edge designer Nader Tehrani who discuss “fluidity” as a paradigm for understanding the built environment and architecture of the Mediterranean region. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461, www.aarome.org.

CASA DI GOETHE 31 Oct-4 Feb

Collezionare al Corso. The Casa di Goethe celebrates 20 years in Rome by showcasing some highlights of its 30-year-old art collection, including some recent acquisitions. The drawings, prints and sketchbooks on display contain works by Goethe’s friends Johann Heinrich Wilhelm Tischbein, Friedrich Bury, Friedrich Preller the Elder, Philipp Hackert, Albert Christoph Dies and Christoph Heinrich Kniep. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 9-30 Jan

Guided tours of the gardens at Rome’s Japanese Cultural Institute are open to small groups of people during the mornings and afternoons on Tues, Thurs, Fri,

42 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Guided tours of gardens at Japanese Cultural Institute.

A world class education in the heart of Rome St. Stephen’s International Day & Boarding School

www.sssrome.it

#4 St. Stephen’s School Rome Via Aventina 3, 00153 Rome, Italy tel: +39 065750605 / email: ststephens@sssrome.it

www.sssrome.it

Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and the New England Association of Schools & Colleges

MUSIC THEATRE CINEMA VENUES

c

lassical

The seasons of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome are between October and June but there are other concerts and musical events throughout the summer, many of them organised by smaller associations.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it

c

inema

The following cinemas show movies in English or original language, and sometimes foreign film festivals. See Wanted in Rome website for weekly updates.

Adriano, Piazza Cavour 22, tel. 0636767

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com

Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org

Cinema dei Piccoli, Viale della Pineta 15, tel.

068553485

Teatro

Accademia S. Cecilia, Concerts at Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.santacecilia.it Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, Piazzale Aldo Moro 5, www.concertiiuc.it Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone.com Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com

Farnese Persol, Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel.

066864395, www.cinemafarnesepersol.com Greenwich, Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere, Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux, Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini, Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel.

0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia, Via in Lucina 16/g, tel.

066861068 Nuovo Sacher, Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, www.teatropalladium.uniroma3.it

Odeon, Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

St Paul's Within the Walls, Via Nazionale and corner of Via Napoli, www.stpaulsrome.it

Space Parco de’ Medici, Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

44 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Space Moderno, Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel.

06892111

pr op

ock

Concert venues ranging from major international pop and rock groups to jazz and acoustic gigs.

Alexanderplatz, Via Ostia 9, tel. 0683775604 www.alexanderplatzjazzclub.it Angelo Mai Altrove, Via delle Terme di Caracalla 55, www.angelomai.org Atlantico, Viale dell’Oceano Atlantico 271d, tel. 065915727, www.atlanticoroma.it Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.auditorium.com Black Out, Via Casilina 713, www.blackoutrockclub.com

t

Casa del Jazz, Viale di Porta Ardeatina 55, tel.

06704731, www.casajazz.it Jailbreak, Via Tiburtina 870, tel. 0640801376 www.jailbreakliveclub.com

Lanificio 159, Via di Pietralata 159, tel.

0641780081, www.lanificio159.com Live Alcazar, Via Cardinale Merry del Val 14, tel. 065810388, www.livealcazar.com Monk Club, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it PalaLottomatica, Piazzale dello Sport 1, tel.

06540901, www.palalottomatica.it Rock in Roma, Via Appia Nuova 1245, tel.

0654220870 www.rockinroma.com Teatro Quirinetta, Via Marco Minghetti 5, tel.

0669925616, www.quirinetta.com Traffic Live, Via Prenestina 738, tel.

3333542095, www.trafficlive.org Unplugged in Monti, Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com

heatre

The following venues stage everything from cutting-edge drama festivals to comedy, and blockbuster musicals to small English-language productions.

Teatro Argentina, Largo di Torre Argentina 52, tel.

06684000314, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel.

063265991, www.teatroolimpico.it

Teatro Belli, Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875, www.teatrobelli.it

Teatro S. Genesio, Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432, www.teatrosangenesio.it

Teatro Brancaccio, Via Merulana 244, tel. 0680687231 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www.ilsistina.it

Teatro Ghione, Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Teatro Vascello, Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel.

06684000311, www.teatrodiroma.net

Teatro Vittoria, Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel.

065781960, www.teatrovittoria.it Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 45

WANTED junior inROME

Illustration by Chiara Castrovillari (age 17), Y13 IB Visual Arts at St George's.

By Anna Johnson (age 15), Year 11, St George's British International School Panic, collision, the silence of an empty road.

We don’t decide what it is that we remember. From the thousands of finely interconnected events building up and blending together between birth and death, almost all are swallowed into the vagueness of ‘time’, ceasing really to exist as individual moments. They blur; they shift; they are often absorbed or forgotten. But there are some moments which survive, forever entwined in our minds, pristine replicas of the past resting within the haze of memory. We do not choose these moments. We have no say in what our minds select to retain while everything else disappears.

As I lie here, turning over everything in my mind, I can truly think of only one moment in this way. Everything else, before and after, has been altered by my tired mind, or assigned to that great, indistinct mass of ‘past’. No: this event, the very one I tried for so long after to suffocate, has remained inescapable.

Now, when it matters, all I have is this.

The dusk was just setting in, creating an unsure, barely present light which lingered after the sun’s departure and filtered, ever more weakly, over the horizon. The greens of the trees had long faded into grey. Now, as the last of the light drained away, they were transformed into dim silhouettes lining the road, an endless trail of identical figures looming before me as I rounded each curvature of the road. The evidence of the day’s rain surrounded me- the fields to either side were congested with mud, and every so often a drop would fall from the overhead branches and mar the surface of the windscreen with a watery trail. Reflected in the innumerable puddles surrounding the car was the thin grey-white film obscuring the sky.

It was a silent, solitary drive I made, the country road smooth and deserted. I had the window cracked open and the taste of rain on concrete seemed to settle in my lungs as I breathed in the evening.

The darkness gradually sank into the road, imperceptibly to me, whose thoughts drifted lethargically between trivial details of my plans for the next day, and the next, and the next. They stretched ahead of me, a proces46 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

sion of monotony. Perfect, untouched normality certain to remain undisturbed. Until it didn’t.

There she was: a figure, frozen for one perfect instant.

It is her gaze which I recall more vividly than all that rest- her deeply intense, dark eyes which probe me in the same way now. The eyes, standing in the body, standing in the road. Fixed my own, rendering me as immobile as herself.

I saw the child for what must have been less than a second. No headlights, street lights, or moon light were there to illuminate her startled face, or indeed to warn either of us of the other’s presence as the space between us shrank to nothing. Panic, collision, the silence of an empty road.

Tyres skidded still, and we were alone: Me, and the body, and the rest of the silent world. There was a moment of frantic stillness. My fingers were frozen in an unyielding grip, my back rigid, but my mind was reeling, staggering, lurching. I was both gasping for breath and unable to pull the air into my lungs. Everything around me seemed to vibrate, yet nothing moved. I sat enclosed within my protective shell, gazing out at the indistinct shape lying metres in front of me. The figures of the trees now seemed to bend inwards, closer and closer, peering forwards to bear witness to the scene. I felt trapped. The next thing I knew, the door was falling open, and the sharp air colliding with my skin.

What would you do? You’d do the right thing, after stumbling numbly towards her. You’d do the right thing, after staring at the broken form at your feet. You’d do the right thing, numbness overflowing until you no longer existed, until it was you who stared at the wet tarmac, whose last breaths inhaled its scent. Wouldn’t you?

The surroundings became distorted, constricting me slowly as they bent circuitously inwards. I tore my eyes from the child, so small yet growing ever more great within the warped confusion of my mind.

Nothing was going to bring her back, anyway.

What was the point of risking the ruination of my own life? My life, in all its stability, its certainty.

What was it I wanted to preserve? Peace? I should have known, even then, that peace would never be possible. Then, when guilt was already closing its arms around me like a gentle vice. But I didn’t understand it then, that I was not protecting myself when I backed away, or when I drove home, or when I closed my eyes and tried to submerge the memory in dreams.

I slept and got up and carried on. Where I could, I avoided driving; I casually but consistently

avoided listening for long to the news. Lingering for long enough to hear something about an accident, a missing person, was not an option. Perhaps I was more careful, in those subsequent months.

But what I wanted, in the end, was the normality which I would later have recognised to have already shattered.

From that second onwards, I had never been alone and never would be. Whether I saw her or not, she was always with me. My mistake, like every other, had a price. I never avoided it, never cheated whatever it is that determines this price, I only unknowingly decided to pay it differently. I would never erase the image of her invariably youthful face, just as it had looked then, so close in my mind that I could have stretched out my arm and touched its cheek.

I really believed, for a long time, that I would outrun her. And I did believe, at some points, that I had. It is true that as the years passed, I would relive the evening less and less. But whenever it did invade my mind, it felt as tangible and as vibrant as if it were happening in the present. I learnt that time alone often fails to create distance. The memory clung to me like nothing else. I was constantly vulnerable- There she would be, as if having never left, whenever circumstance called her forwards. If I ventured towards happiness, if I dared to feel sad.

I could not bear admiration; I shrank from accusation. She was an extension of myself, a channel of guilt and grief and despair.

Some moments, whether we wish them to be or not, are unforgettable.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 47

ARTandSEEK English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome. For event details tel. 3315524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com, or see website, www.artandseekforkids.com.

Bioparco Rome's Bioparco has over 1,000 animals and offers special activities for children and their families at weekends and during the summer. When little legs get tired, take a ride around the zoo on an electric train. Open daily. Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

48 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/Bravetta), tel.

0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri.com.

Casa del Parco Eco-friendly workshops, in Italian, in which kids can learn about nature and how to care for the environment.

Located in the Valle dei Casali nature park. Via del Casaletto 400, tel. 3475540409, www.valledeicasali.com.

Casina di Raffaello Play centre in Villa Borghese offering a programme of animated lectures, creative workshops, cultural projects and educational activities for children from the age of three. Tues-Fri 14.30, Sat-Sun 11.00 and 17.00. Viale della Casina di Raffaello (Porta Pinciana), tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffaello.it.

Cinecittà World This 25-hectare theme park dedicated to the magic of cinema features high-tech attractions, real and virtual roller coasters, aquatic shows such as Super Splash, giant elephant rides and attractions with cinematic special effects. Located about 10 km from EUR, south of Rome.

Via di Castel Romano, S.S. 148 Pontina, www.cinecittaworld.it.

Climbing Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side. Basic and competitive climbing courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel.

3356525473.

Explora The 2,000-sqm Children’s Museum organises creative workshops for small children in addition to holding regular animated lectures, games and meetings with authors of children’s books. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel.

063613776, www.mdbr.it.

Go-karting Club Kartroma is a circuit with go-karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8.

Closed Mon. For details see website. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.it.

Gymboree This children's centre caters to little people aged from 0-5 years, offering Play and Learn activities, music, art, baby play, school skills and even English theatre arts. Gymboree @ Chiostro del Bramante (Piazza Navona), Via Arco della Pace 5, www.gymbo.it.

Hortis Urbis Association providing hands-on horticultural workshops for children, usually in Italian but sometimes in English, in the Appia Antica park. Weekend activities include sowing seeds, cultivating plants and harvesting vegetables. Junior gardeners must be accompanied by a parent or guardian. Via Appia Antica 42/50, www.hortusurbis.it.

Il Giratempo Designed especially for children, this space in north Rome lets kids enjoy 'books, games and other magic' in a fun, educational and creative environment. Via Giorgio Iannicelli 118 (Cassia), www.ilgiratempo.it.

Il Nido Based in Testaccio, this association supports expectant mothers, parents, babies and small children. It holds regular educational and social events, many of them in English. Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel.

0657300707, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Luneur Located in the southern EUR suburb, Luneur is Italy’s oldest amusement park. Highlights include ferris wheel, roller coaster, carousel horses, bamboo tunnel, maze, giant swing and a Wizard of Oz-style farm. Aimed at children aged up to 12. Entry fee €2.50, payable in person or online. Via delle Tre Fontane 100, www.luneurpark.it.

Melograno This centre in the S. Giovanni area provides creative musical workshops for small children. Via Saturnia 4/a, tel. 0670475606, www.melogranoroma.org.

Rainbow Magicland The 38 attractions at Rome's biggest theme park are divided into three categories: brave, everyone, and kids.

Highlights include down-hill rafting, a water roller coaster through Mayan-style pyramids, and the Shock launch coaster. Located in Valmonte, south-east of the capital.

Via della Pace, 00038 Valmontone, www.rainbowmagicland.it.

Time Elevator A virtual reality, multi-sensorial 5-D cinema experience with a motion-base platform, bringing the history of Rome to life in an accessible and fun way. The time-machine's commentary is available in six languages including English. Daily 11.00-19.30. €12 adults, €9 kids. Via dei SS. Apostoli 20, tel. 0669921823, www.time-elevator.it.

Zoomarine This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via Casablanca 61, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel.

0691534, www.zoomarine.it.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 49

ROME UNDERGROUND 50 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Acquedotto Vergine

Via del Nazareno 9/a, tel. 060608, www.sovraintendenzaroma.it.

The Aqua Virgo was built in 19 BC mainly to supply the Agrippa Baths in Rome's Campo Marzio district. It still supplies water to the Trevi Fountain today. Group visits only, booking required. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. The basement of the Rinascente department store on Via del Tritone also houses a 60-m section of the acqueduct.

Auditorium di Mecenate

Largo Leopardi (Via Merulana), tel. 060608, www.sovraintendenzaroma.it.

Located under a public garden in the Esquilino district, this fresco-covered nymphaeum is all that remains of a vast architectural complex belonging to Gaius Maecenas, or Mecenate, an advisor to Octavian and enlightened patron of the arts. Group visits only, for details see website.

Basilica di S. Clemente

Via Labicana 95, tel. 067740021, www.basilicasanclemente.com.

A 12th-century basilica built over a fourth-century domus ecclesiae – a church in a private home – for early Christian worshippers. This in turn was constructed over buildings dating from between the first and third centuries AD, including a pagan temple. Mon-Sat 09.00-12.30, 15.00-18.00. Sun 12.15-18.00.

Capuchin Crypt

Via Vittorio Veneto 27, tel. 0688803695.

The vaults and walls of the four chapels in the Capuchin crypt are decorated with the bones of 4,000 monks who died between 1600 and 1800.

Located at the church of S. Maria della Concezione dei Cappuccini.

09.00-19.00.

Catacombs of S. Agnese Via Nomentana 349, tel. 068610840.

Named in honour of the virgin and martyr St Agnes, these catacombs in the Trieste district date to the second half of the third century. 09.00-12.00, 16.00-18.00. Closed Sun mornings and religious feast days.

Catacombs of S. Callisto

Via Appia Antica 110, tel. 0651301580.

These important catacombs originated in the second century and occupy some 36 hectares. The four levels of tunnels cover 20 km and are more than 20m deep. Among the thousands of people buried here are ten martyrs and 16 popes. 09.00-12.00, 14.00-17.00, Wed closed.

Catacombs of S. Domitilla

Via delle Sette Chiese 282, tel. 065110342.

Rome's oldest and best-preserved catacombs contains a network of tunnels covering 17km, a second-century fresco of The Last Supper and a fourth-century subterranean church. 09.00-12.00, 14.00-17.00. Closed Tues and 16 Dec-13 Jan.

Catecombs of Priscilla

Mithraeum in Circo Massimo

Catacombs of S. Sebastiano

Palazzo Valentini

Church of S. Crisogono

Stadium of Domitian

Via Salaria 430, tel. 0686206272.

Situated near the Villa Ada park, these catacombs comprise a series of labyrinthine tunnels and burial chambers excavated between the second and fifth centuries. 08.30-12.00, 14.30-17.00. Closed Mon and Aug. Via Appia Antica 136, tel. 067850350.

From the first century this maze of tunnels and caves was used extensively to inter pagans and Christians, including the martyrs Sebastian and Eutychius. 10.00-17.00. Closed Sun and 1-28 Dec. Piazza Sidney Sonnino 44, (Viale Trastevere), tel. 065810076.

Underground site including an early Christian church and a third-century Roman house. Mon-Sat 07.30-11.30, 16.00-19.00. Sun 08.00-13.00, 16.00-19.00. Not possible to visit excavations during celebration of Mass.

Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina

Piazza Bocca della Verità 16, tel. 060608.

Guided visits for groups only. This five-room mithraeum, at the Bocca della Verità end of Circo Massimo, is dedicated to the Roman deity Mithras. It dates to the fourth century but was only rediscovered in 1931.

Via Foro Traiano 85 (Piazza Venezia), tel. 0622761280, www.palazzovalentini.it.

The remains of ancient Roman houses are on permanent display below Palazzo Valentini, just off Piazza Venezia.

09.30-18.30. Tues closed.

Via di Tor Sanguigna 3, tel. 0668805311, www.stadiodomiziano.com.

The remains of the Domiziano Stadium, a Unesco World Heritage Site commissioned around AD 80 by Emperor Domitianus, are located about 4.5m under Piazza Navona.

Daily 10.00-19.00, Sat 10.00-20.00. Audio guide available.

Via in Lucina 16, tel. 066871494, www.060608.it.

This underground site was originally thought to have been a Roman house for early Christian worship but recent research indicates that it may have been a pre-Christian temple to Giunone Lucina, the goddess of pregnant women. Tours last Saturday of the month at 16.15.

Terme di Caracalla

Church of S. Nicola in Carcere

Vatican scavi

Via del Teatro di Marcello 46, tel. 0668892781, www.sotterraneidiroma.it.

The remains of three Republican-era temples, cells and alleys under the altar were once part of the bustling Forum Boarium complex, ancient Rome's cattle market. 10.00-17.00. Wed closed.

Crypta Balbi

Viale delle Terme di Caracalla 52, www.coopculture.it.

These Roman baths have a maze of underground areas including a gymnasium, changing rooms, frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium. Open daily, Mon half day. For varying opening times see website.

St Peter's Basilica, www.scavi.va.

This Imperial-era necropolis contains the tomb of St Peter.

Only private visits on request. Tour groups are composed of approximately 12 people, according to language. For information see website or go to excavations office to the left of the Bernini colonnade in St Peter’s Square. Mon-Fri 09.00-18.00, Sat 09.00-17.00.

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, 0639967700, www.coopculture.it.

Built over the ancient Roman Theatre of Balbus, this partially-underground museum is dedicated to urban archaeology and the Middle Ages. Tues-Sun 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

Domus Aurea

Viale della Domus Aurea 1, www.coopculture.it.

Emperor Nero's golden palace was built after the great fire of Rome in 64 AD on a sprawling site in the Colle Oppio area.

Guided tours in English Sat-Sun 09.00-16.45. Virtual reality tours Sat-Sun 09.00-18.15 (last admission 17.00).

Hadrian’s Crypt (Bocca della Verità)

Piazza Bocca della Verità 18.

Under the altar in the church of S. Maria in Cosmedin there is a small eighth-century crypt built to hold relics extracted from the catacombs by Pope Hadrian I. Mon-Sat 10.00-14.00, 15.00-17.30, Sun 12.00-17.30.

Jewish catacombs

Via Nomentana 70 and Via Appia Pignatelli 4.

The are six Jewish catacombs in Rome but not all are accessible. The Villa Torlonia catacombs, on Via Nomentana 70, are the largest and best known, while the Vigna Randanini catacombs, on Via Appia Pignatelli 4, opened to the public for the first time in 2016. For up-to-date visiting information see website, www.catacombsociety.org/jewish-catacombs/.

Left: The skulls in the Capuchin crypt.

Right: The mithraeum at S. Clemente.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 51

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Rome's reputation as an important street art capital continues to grow with new murals by important Italian and international street artists appearing all the time. Most of the works are located in the suburbs, often far from the centre. Here is where to find the main street art projects and murals around Rome.

Esquilino Murals by Alice Pasquini, Gio Pistone, Nicola Alessandrini, Diamond. Casa dell'Architettura, Piazza Manfredo Fanti 47.

Marconi The M.A.G.R. (Museo Abusivo Gestito dai Rom), a project by French street artist Seth is located in a former soap factory on Via Antonio Avogadro, opposite Ostiense's landmark Gasometro.

For details see www.999contemporary.com.

Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz This former meat factory in the outskirts of Rome is now a street art museum as well as being home to some 200 squatters, many of them migrants. The Museo dell’Altro e dell’Altrove di Metropoliz, or MAAM, is only open on Saturdays, and features the work of more than 300 artists including Edoardo Kobra, Gio Pistone, Sten&Lex and Diamond. See MAAM Facebook page for details.

Via Prenestina 913.

Via Fanfulla da Lodi.

2501 mural on Via Fortebraccio.

Blu Landscape by Sten & Lex. Via Francesco Baracca.

Prati Anna Magnani portrait by Diavù. Nuovo Mercato Trionfale, Via Andrea Doria.

Daniza the bear by ROA. Via Sabotino.

Primavalle The Roadkill by Fintan Magee. Via Cristoforo Numai.

Theseus stabbing the Minotaur by Pixelpancho. Via Pietro Bembo.

Quadraro Tunnel murals by Mr THOMS and Gio Pistone. Via Decio Mure.

Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte. Via del Monte del Grano.

Baby Hulk by Ron English. Via dei Pisoni 89.

Rebibbia Murals by Blu. Via Ciciliano and Via Palombini (Casal dè Pazzi).

Welcome to Rebibbia by Zerocalcare.

Metro B station.

Ostiense Fronte Del Porto by Blu. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Fish’n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci. Via del Porto Fluviale.

Wall of Fame by JB Rock. Via dei Magazzini Generali.

Shelley by Ozmo. Ostiense underpass, Via Ostiense.

Palazzo occupato by Blu, Via Ostiense.

S. Basilio SanBa features large-scale works on the façades of social-housing blocks in the disadvantaged north-east suburb of S. Basilio near Rebibbia. The regeneration project includes works by Italian artists Agostino Iacurci, Hitnes and Blu alongside Spain's Liqen. Via Maiolati, Via Osimo, Via Recanati, Via Arcevia, Via Treia.

Pigneto Tributes to Pier Paolo Pasolini by Maupal, Mr. Klevra and Omino 71.

S. Giovanni Totti mural by Lucamaleonte. Via Apulia corner of Via Farsalo.

54 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

It’s a New Day by Alice Pasquini. Via Anton Ludovico.

S. Lorenzo Alice Pasquini. Via dei Sabelli.

Feminicide mural by Elisa Caracciolo.

Via Dei Sardi.

Borondo. Via dei Volsci 159.

Mural by Agostino Iacurci on the Istituto Superiore di Vittorio Lattanzio, Via Aquilonia.

S. Pietro Uma Cabra by Bordalo II. Stazione di S. Pietro, Clivo di Monte del Gallo.

Testaccio Hunted Wolf by ROA. Via Galvani. #KindComments by Alice Pasquini, Via Volta, Testaccio market.

Tor Pignattara Dulk. Via Antonio Tempesta.

Etnik. Via Bartolomeo Perestrello 51.

Coffee Break by Etam Cru. Via Ludovico Pavoni.

Tom Sawyer by Jef Aerosol. Via Gabrio Serbelloni.

Pasolini by Diavù. Former Cinema Impero, Via Acqua Bullicante.

Hostia by Nicola Verlato. Via Galeazzo Alessi.

Herakut. Via Capua 14.

Agostino Iacurci. Via Muzio Oddi 6.

Tor Marancia The Big City Life scheme features 14-m tall murals by 22 Italian and international street artists including Mr Klevra, Seth, Gaia and Jerico. The idea was to transform the area's blocks of flats into an open-air art museum. Via Tor Marancia. www.bigcity.life.it.

Clockwise from top left: S. Maria di Shanghai by Mr Klevra (Big City Life), Nido di Vespe by Lucamaleonte, El Devinir by Liqen, Fish'n'Kids by Agostino Iacurci, MAGR by Seth.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 55

TONNARELLI CON UVA E SALSICCIA

By Kate Zagorski Autumn in Italy brings the grape harvest and, with it, an invasion of sweet, shiny spheres which can be seen piled up precariously at Rome’s markets and produce stalls. Grapes are popped in the mouth on the go as a speedy snack, adorn cheese platters as a garnish and occasionally, as in this case, crop up in seasonal recipes. Cooking grapes and sausage together as a savoury dish may seem a little unusual but the combination can be traced back to 1891 when Italian gastronome Pellegrino Artusi included a recipe for Salsiccia coll’uva in his famed culinary bible La Scienza in Cucina e l’Arte di Mangiar Bene (The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well). This recipe takes inspiration from the same ingredients for a pasta version which deliciously balances the delectable flavours of rich Italian sausage, sweet grapes and a background hint of salty Pecorino Romano.

Ingredients for 4 people

60 white grapes (seedless if possible) 4 pork sausages Extra virgin olive oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 1 whole garlic clove, peeled

Salt Pepper 400g tonnarelli 6 tablespoons grated Pecorino Romano

- Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil.

- Using a sharp knife carefully cut an X into the base of each grape and then cook in the boiling water for about 2 minutes. Remove the grapes, keeping the water aside to cook the pasta.

- Leave the grapes to cool then, pulling away from the X, peel off the skins and remove any seeds.

- Remove the outer casing of the sausages and roughly chop them into chunks.

- Heat a splash of olive oil in a large frying pan and add the chopped onion and whole garlic clove. After 3 minutes, when the onion begins to soften, add the sausage meat and continue to cook for 10 minutes before stirring in the grapes.

- Cook for another 5 minutes, season with salt and pepper and remove the garlic clove.

In the meantime, bring the saucepan of water back to the boil, add salt, and cook the pasta until al dente.

- Drain the pasta and add to the frying pan, mix together well to coat the pasta then turn off the heat, sprinkle in the Pecorino Romano and stir well, shaking the pan, to thicken up the sauce before serving.

58 | January 2018 • Wanted in Rome

Aperitivi and dinner in Rome A GOURMET DINNER – THE HISTORIC CENTRE

TRENDY APERITIVO – THE COLOSSEUM Caffè Propaganda Other than the lunch and evening menu, Caffè Propaganda, two minutes away from the Colosseum, serves a very trendy aperitivo at the bar with small plates that you can enjoy with a delicious drink, between 18.00 and 23.30 during the week and until half-past midnight at the weekend. You’ll find the cocktail menu under the name Hotel Avanguardia, with creations made

by Patrick Pistolesi. Caffè Propaganda, Via Claudia 15, tel.

0694534255.

Pipero The Pipero restaurant has moved from the Rex Hotel to a new and elegant spot on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, facing Piazza della Chiesa Nuova. The restaurant is modern and beautifully lit, which suits the innovative cuisine, curated by young chef Luciano Monosilio, perfectly. You can choose between two different tasting menus, the Radici and Rami, which are respectively between 6 to 10 dishes (€110-140, wine not included). Or there’s also a variety of dishes to choose from on the main menu.

For antipasti (the chef’s favourite course) there’s lobster with red turnip and bitter orange and mackerel with wasabi mayonnaise and potatoes (€25-40). For starters you should try the prawn risotto (€30) and the rigatoni with broccoli, sausage and pecorino, which is a favourite of the restaurant’s regulars (€30).

For the main course, the joint of pork with potatoes and liquorice is excellent, as is the turbot served with seawood and lettuce (€40) and the tongue and scallops (€40). Pipero, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 246/248, tel. 0668139022.

APERITIVO IN A WINE BAR – MONTEVERDE Litro A winery and bistro in the heart of Monteverde Vecchio, Litro is a refuge for organic wine affacinados and for those who are looking for a spot with a relaxing and refined atmosphere. If you prefer your aperitivo in a wine bar, then this is the place for you.

The selected wines and cuisine are excellent and there’s a great outdoor space. Vineria Litro, Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel.

0645447639.

A TRADITIONAL DINNER – THE HISTORIC CENTRE Matricianella At Matricianella, two minutes from S. Lorenzo in Lucina, you’ll find authentic and honest cooking. Your meal should start with a mountain of fried delicacies, from brain to lamb sweetbreads to anchovies, porcini mushrooms, potatoes (€5.50) to artichoke alla romana (€5.50). Don’t miss their real speciality, the amatriciana (€11) and the rigatoni with pajata d’abbacchio (lamb sweetbreads) (€12). Finish the meal with a Jewish dessert of ricotta and chocolate and Roman trifle. In the summer months you can tuck into your meal in the small outdoor area. Matricianella Roma, Via del Leone 4, tel. 066832100.

DINNER OUTDOORS – HISTORIC CENTRE Pianostrada On Via delle Zoccolette, you’ll find the splendid Pianostrada, an elegantly styled restaurant with a fantastic courtyard-garden, with a great long bar and a kitchen on show. Already hugely successful with Roman foodies, you can try anything from fried antipasti (€10-13.50), salads, gourmet panini (€12.50-14.50), artichokes and excellent bread that’s made in house. We loved the artichokes alla giudìa, the extremely light cod tempura and the fig and sun dried tomato focaccia. Pianostrada, Via delle Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296.

www.puntarellarossa.it

Vineria Litro, Via Fratelli Bonnet 5, tel. 0645447639.

Matricianella Roma, Via del Leone 4, tel. 066832100.

Indirizzi

Caffè Propaganda, Via Claudia 15, tel. 0694534255.

Pipero, Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 246/248, tel. 0668139022.

Pianostrada, Via delle Zoccolette 22, tel. 0689572296.

Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 59

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Wanted in Rome • January 2018 | 65

december 31 - january 7

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