Wanted in Rome - November 2017

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WHERE TO GO IN ROME

ART AND CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT GALLERIES MUSEUMS NEWS Poste Italiane S.p.a. Sped. in abb. post. DL 353/2003 (Conv. in L 27/02/2004 N.46) art. 1 comma 1 Aut. C/RM/04/2013 - Anno 9, Numero 11

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CONTENTS

TITOLO

NO. 11 / NOVEMBER 2017 EDITORIALS

AT HOME IN ROME Mary Wilsey. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 PAINTING IN THE CONTACT ZONE: AMERICAN ARTISTS IN POSTWAR ROME Peter Benson Miller . . . 6 ROME’S UNDERAGE PICKPOCKETS Mike Dilien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

WHAT’S ON

EXHIBITIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 CLASSICAL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 POP, ROCK, JAZZ. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 DANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 FESTIVALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 OPERA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 OPERA NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 THEATRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 ACADEMIES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 CHILDREN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

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CLASSIFIED COLUMNS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 MISCELLANY

MUSEUMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 ART GALLERIES IN ROME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 ROME’S CULTURAL ACADEMIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 USEFUL NUMBERS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 NOVEMBER 2017 € 2,00

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34 November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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TOURISM

Mary Wilsey

AT HOME IN ROME Tourists seem less interested in Roma Caput Mundi and are spending less time and money in the city

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There is one point which cannot be sufficiently impressed upon those who wish to take away more than a surface impression of Rome; it is never to see too much; never try to ‘do’ Rome. Nothing can be more depressing to those who really value Rome than to meet Englishmen hunting in couples through the Vatican galleries, one looking for the number of a statue in the guide book, the other not finding it; than to hear Americans describing the Forum as the dustiest heap of old ruins they have ever looked upon; or say of the Colosseum that ‘it will be handsome building when it is finished’; than to encounter a husband who boasts of having seen everything in Rome in three days while the wife laments that, in recollection, she cannot distinguish the Vatican from the Capitol, or St Peter’s from St Paul’s.”

These comments were not written today, although most of us could probably tell similar tales from our own experience. They were written a century and a half ago by Augustus Hare in his Walks in Rome. Hare was born in Rome, clearly loved his birthplace even though he moved back to England, and his guide to the city became the blueprint for the “new” and much less formal travel writing that was to follow

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

The Colosseum knows no peace as tourists continue to leave their mark on the ancient monument.

in the 20th century, Georgina Masson’s Companion Guide to Rome being only one of many examples. Even today Hare is a wonderful companion for those who want to do more than just ‘do’ Rome and his classic guide is still in print.

Another of his observations in the introduction to the first edition published in 1871 – the year after the unification of Italy – is even more astute. “When

travellers arrive at Verona, for instance, or Arles, they generally go to the amphitheatres with a curiosity to know what they are like; but when they arrive at Rome and go to the Colosseum, it is to visit an object whose appearance has been familiar to them from childhood... as regards St Peter’s, who is not familiar with the aspect of the dome, of the wide-spreading piazza and the foaming fountains, for long years before they come to gaze upon the reality?”

TOURISM Precisely. We all think we know Rome even before we arrive. Rome is a sort of home. There is something so very familiar about the city that even the first-time visitor to the Colosseum or St Peter’s feels as though it is “theirs”.

Perhaps this explains the behaviour of some of today’s tourists? Perhaps this is why they have an itch to take home a stone from the Forum, to sign their names on a column in the Colosseum, to leave their left-overs under Bernini’s colonnade or to strip off and swim in the fountains? But to be fair, behind the vandalism and lack of respect there is also something else: the sheer Dolce Vita exuberance of being in Rome, the feel-like-Anita-Ekberg exhilaration of plunging into the Trevi Fountain in the heat of a summer evening. That, of course, was another age and anyone who does it today will face hefty fines and a trip to the police station.

Rome is now full of tourists trying to ‘do’ Rome more quickly and cheaply than ever before. Never mind the Colosseum and St Peter’s; any resident will know that the Trevi Fountain to Piazza Navona route is now a tough struggle.

Even though there are several ways to go – one of the endless joys of Rome is how many little streets connect the same two places – it is now crammed with lines of often bored-looking tourists strung out behind an equally bored-looking guide holding a flag or umbrella.

Is Rome getting to a saturation point? According to the numerous available figures it looks as though this could be the case.

The head of Rome’s retail organisation, Confesercenti, confessed to the daily newspaper La Repubblica in the summer that retails sales from the beginning of the year until July were down 20 per cent on the same period

These tourists made headlines last year after cooling off in the waters of the Fontanone on Rome’s Janiculum hill.

the previous year. Part of the decrease is due to the still-sluggish economy but part also to low-cost tourism, to those who typically “eat a sandwich for lunch, pizza for dinner and spend their money on cheap souvenirs.” Confesercenti chief Valter Giammaria might have added that they also spend much less on accommodation, preferring very short self-rentals rather than what were only a few years ago exaggeratedly expensive hotels. As with Ryanair, the likes of Airbnb have brought the prices down.

According to Bank of Italy figures foreign tourists spent €5.6 billion in Rome in 2016, which was €600 million less than the previous year. However over the same period spending in the rest of Italy was up by 8.7 per cent, a warning indeed for Rome. Even Milan, in the wake of the crowd-pulling Expo2015, now claims that it has a higher hotel occupancy than Rome, something that would have been unheard of several years ago. According to the city’s chamber of commerce Milan’s hotels are 68 per cent full compared with Rome’s 55.6 per cent.

There are so many figures available that it is difficult to know which to take.

The Bank of Italy tracks tourism to calculate the balance of payments; ISTAT, the national statistics institute, because the sector is a weather-vane for the economy; the ministry of culture because it is also the ministry of tourism; ENIT, Ente Nazionale Italiano per il Turismo, because its job is to promote tourism to Italy abroad, the Coldiretti farmers’ association because of food and agritourism. The list goes on and on, which all goes to show the importance of tourism to the economy. Tourism accounts for about 11.1 per cent of Italy’s GDP and employs some 2.5 million people, which explains in part why the figures are examined with the interest of ancient Romans looking for omens in the entrails of a sacrificial bull.

This summer the figures were considered so satisfactory that they have been highlighted on the ministry of culture’s website. The delight is probably because tourism’s percentage of GDP is finally up from the nine per cent of ten years ago. However it is still not back to the 13 per cent seen November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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TOURISM

A room in an albergo diffuso in Picinisco in the province of Frosinone.

in 2000 when the government and the city made a big effort to get Rome in the best possible condition for the bimillenium Holy Year.

Both the economic crisis and terrorism have clearly had an effect. Anyone who was in Rome immediately after the Bataclan killings in Paris in November 2015 will remember how the streets, tourist sites and shops suddenly emptied overnight. Another of the problems is that Italy is so obviously full of tourist attractions – whether beaches, mountains or cultural cities – that there has been no pressing need to guide visitors in any particular direction.

There now seems to be a change and the ministry of culture and tourism is making more of an effort to decentralise and de-seasonalise the tourist trade, in other words to move people away from the obvious art cities and from the main seasons. 2016 was themed as the year of walks; this year it is the turn of the borghi, or little villages, as part of the ministry’s 20172022 strategic plan for tourism.

Just as agritourism was one of the fashionable ideas a few years ago now it is the turn of the alberghi diffusi. These are pre-existing premises in small villages – whether rooms or apartments – which are restored to the same standard as a hotel. They are scattered throughout the village or hamlet but are within 200m of a existing central restaurant and refreshment area, which also acts as the administrative hub. These alberghi diffusi are ideally suited to the economy of small and still-viable historic centres (abandoned borghi are excluded from the scheme), and are producing a new form of sustainable, or slow, tourism designed both to give visitors a different flavour of Italian life and to prevent the depopulation of historically important areas.

The idea was born during the reconstruction in the wake of the 1976 earthquake in Friuli and has since been taken up all over Italy. It is thought that the concept will be ideally suited to the redevelopment of the central Apennines areas hit by the 2016 and 2017 earthquakes.

For those who already know and love Italy these hotels are undoubtedly a different and attractive way of seeing the country, but for those who are coming for the first time, who wouldn’t choose Rome or Florence or Venice? Venice suffers from much the same overcrowding as Rome and this year the city started a Respect Venice campaign to prevent visitors diving off its bridges into the canals, picnicking in public places and wearing beach wear around the city.

Maybe Rome should start a Respect Rome campaign too. But if its streets are dirty, its hospitality services are unhelpful, public transport and taxis are unreliable and if the mayor is unable to project a better image of the city she governs that could be why many tourists no longer care.

For more details about alberghi diffusi see the association’s website www.alberghidiffusi.it. Airbnb has also recently launched a project in collaboration with the ministry of culture to promote alberghi diffusi, see www.italy.airbnbcitizen.com.

November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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ART

Peter Benson Miller

PAINTING IN THE CONTACT ZONE: AMERICAN ARTISTS IN POSTWAR ROME American artists chose Rome over Paris in the immediate postwar years

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fter world war two, Rome lured several American artists whose work became more abstract as they assimilated into the city’s creative community. Piero Dorazio, the internationally-minded Italian artist, recalled that “Americans were no longer going to Paris – that had been in the 1920s and 1930s. In the 1950s, Rome was full of artists.”

The image of Rome as a “second Paris” and an important catalyst for a postwar avant-garde was broadcast in 1952 by an article in Life, “Americans in Italy,” which declared that “artists from all over the US have swarmed the hillsides and made Rome the rival of Paris as art headquarters.” The city provoked unexpected innovative pictorial approaches: “Though inspired by the same historic scenes, which their predecessors recorded with realistic vigor, the artists of today have presented, in highly personal abstract styles, a poetic new view of ancient Italy.”

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

Conrad Marca-Relli, Moonlight, c. 1947, oil and collage on canvas.

To be sure, Rome is rarely perceived as a catalyst in the same period that New York generated Jackson Pollock’s breakthrough all-over drip paintings.

Nonetheless, the international mix of artists and partisan politics in Rome

combined to mark the careers of several American artists.

The Roman art world was enmeshed in a web of political allegiances, which Life caricatured in an earlier article pub-

ART lished in 1949. After years of Fascism, which isolated the city from the rest of world, Italian artists, often banding together in associations, such as Il Fronte Nuovo delle Arti, attempted to renew the avant-garde and establish productive links with artistic movements elsewhere.

Their efforts faltered in 1948, when Palmiro Togliatti, head of the Partito Communista Italiano (PCI), denounced an exhibition of abstract paintings in Bologna as “monstrous things.” This broadside created major faults in the Italian art world, essentially forbidding Communist artists from painting in an abstract idiom.

Philip Guston spent a year at the American Academy in Rome in 1948-49.

In an annual report, Academy director Laurance Roberts noted that “in painting [Guston] produced little, but on his return to America he was able to sort out and translate onto canvas his experiences and impressions.” Roberts intimates that Guston’s subsequent output resulted from his experience in Europe, more than it did from his attentiveness to developments in New York.

This period was one of transition for Guston; a photograph of the artist in his studio at the Academy (on right of this page) pictures him standing in front of a painting that might be the unfinished Tormentors, a painting that he revised repeatedly as he pared down his figurative language.

The Italian-American artist Conrad Marca-Relli also saw his work shift from figurative to abstract after he opted for Rome over Paris in 1947. He noticed an “odd thing was happening. I found it impossible to continue painting the streets and piazzas I was doing while in New York. I was in Rome for about a year. My work had changed, it was much more abstract.”

Art historian Adrian Duran cautions against reducing “postwar Italian paint-

ing into a Manichean battle between the two stylistic categories of realism and abstraction.” Despite Togliatti’s strictures, Italian artists navigated between the two modes, which remained fluid, and attempted to reconcile them.

Duran proposes a model of “simultaneity and oscillation, rather than singularity or binarist mutual exclusivity.” Pietro Consagra, for example, a sculptor and a militant for the PCI, attempted to remain true to the ideals of the party while continuing to pursue his exploration of abstract forms. According to his friend Ugo Pirro, Consagra believed that “a revolutionary party should promote a revolutionary art.”

These ideological tensions permeated even the relative calm of the American Academy in Rome where Guston was not alone in experimenting with abstraction. Italian-American artist and former G.I. Salvatore Scarpitta worked in a studio for three years after the war.

Accused of “getting a little too involved in Italian internal politics,” he was asked to vacate his studio at the Academy. He was guilty only of trying to solidify his standing with left-leaning friends, who were suspicious of him simply because of his American passport.

Salvatore Meo, too, found himself pigeonholed for being American. Art critic Cesare Vivaldi remembered an occasion in which the Italian painter Giulio Turcato, having mistaken Meo for a reactionary American, harassed him with sarcastic and polemical barbs.

While these artists pursued abstraction on shaky ground, within a matrix of conflicting loyalties, Scarpitta, despite his difficulties, remembers a porous, fluid atmosphere of exchange.

“The American Academy was a survival space. On the outside, or shall we say on the inside, was Italy, humanity, politics, the competition, let’s say competition; and that’s where I began with the

Philip Guston in his studio, American Academy in Rome, 1948. Photograph by Herman Cherry.

abstract movement in Italy. The Communist Party didn’t like our attitude toward art, but accepted us because we had a certain crescendo, a certain popularity. We also made friends among leaders of the Communist Party who were not that sectarian about their approach to art.”

Dorazio was part of a group of younger Italian artists who banded together as Forma 1, publishing a manifesto in 1947 declaring that they were “formalists and Marxists convinced that the terms Marxism and formalism are not irreconcilable.”

They proposed to mediate between abstraction and realism.

Guston, who met Dorazio in 1948, was no stranger to art in the service of leftist social and political agendas. His enthusiasm for the Mexican muralists was tied up in the activities of the Los Angeles branch of the John Reed Club, a Marxist study group, which encouraged artists to abandon the idea November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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ART their commitment to Marxism with their ongoing exploration of abstraction, Guston may have recognised there a way to create a similar balance in his own work.

Nicholas Carone, Untitled, 1948, oil on canvas. Courtesy Christian Carone.

Nicholas Carone lived in Rome from 1947 to 1951 thanks to a deferred Rome Prize and a Fulbright scholarship, and set up a studio on Via Margutta, where his closest neighbour was Italian sculptor Pericle Fazzini. There, Carone attempted to assimilate in abstract paintings the techniques and processes of the artists he befriended in Rome: “Well, I lived not as an American; I lived with the Italians. I wasn’t just a tourist. I set up a studio and lived there. I associated with most of the Italian artists. I knew them all: Afro [Basaldella] and Mirko [Basaldella] and [Renato] Guttuso.”

that art can exist for art’s sake. The fragmentary motifs in Tormentors – echoes of shoe soles, two by fours, the hoods worn by the Ku Klux Klan – hark back to earlier figurative paintings depicting social and political injustice. In the year before he came to Rome, Guston painted Porch II, in which he broke down figures and compressed pictorial space to convey the horror of the Nazi death camps.

In Rome, Guston continued this process of dismantling, stripping away the form and piling on paint, obscuring or erasing shapes with gestural brushstrokes.

despite mutual admiration, Americans and Italians faced off and exchanged ideas in a relationship shaped by postwar reconstruction and the Cold War. The move to abstraction betrays signs of “transculturation,” one of the strategies identified by Pratt in the “contact zone.”

First defined by Cuban anthropologist Fernando Ortiz in 1947, transculturation describes the process whereby members of subordinated or marginal groups select and invent from materials transmitted by a dominant metropolitan culture.

Carone had his first show in Rome sponsored by these Italian artists. Guttuso wrote the preface for the accompanying catalogue. Carone later underlined the benefits of that “aesthetic climate, working with the Italian painters,” and his attentiveness to their fluid, non-doctrinaire strategies. In championing Carone’s abstract work, Guttuso, the most prominent artist to remain faithful to the party line, broke ranks with PCI diktats. In his text, Guttuso insisted that all the paintings in the exhibition were “profoundly Italian in character.”

The cultural historian Mary Louise Pratt offers a useful framework to explain the complexity of American experience in Rome after the war. She has coined the term “contact zones” to describe “social spaces where cultures meet, inform each other in uneven ways, and where they clash and grapple with each other, often in contexts of highly asymmetrical relations of power.” A “contact zone” allows for interaction, so that cultural boundaries can be broken and transgressed. We might consider postwar Rome a “contact zone” in which,

Inured to the artistic hegemony of New York, we usually assume that the transmission of abstraction must have flowed only in one direction across the Atlantic. Yet, despite its newfound superpower status after the war and the growing authority of its modern art, the United States remained a cultural upstart with respect to the august traditions of old Europe. Guston, an admirer of Piero della Francesca and Giorgio de Chirico, arrived in Rome in awe of Italy’s cultural preeminence. Impressed by the way in which Dorazio and others reconciled

In restoring Rome to its rightful place as an artistic centre after the war, we can begin to unpack a more complete picture of the productive exchanges between American and Italian artists and their enduring impact on abstraction in both countries.

This is a shortened version of a recent talk at the American Academy in Rome by Peter Benson Miller, the Andrew Heiskell Arts Director at the American Academy in Rome, www.aarome.org.

November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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CRIME

Mike Dilien

ROME’S UNDERAGE PICKPOCKETS The murky world of Rome’s underage pickpockets, their pimps and the laws that fail to protect them

Security guards on Rome’s underground network deal with underage pickpockets on a daily basis.

Rome, mid July. In Barberini underground station, a nine-year-old boy knocked over Maria Assunta Devoti.

The gang of pickpockets to whom the child belonged, left the woman lying on the platform in a pool of blood. The child hit 63-year-old Devoti because she had shouted – in English – “Beware of pickpockets” in order to warn her fellow passengers, many of them tourists.

Devoti subsequently embarked on a personal crusade against the un-

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

derage pickpockets in Rome’s underground until she was informed by an employee of ATAC, the city company that manages the public transport network, that the clan was after her.

She also conducted press interviews and media websites streamed videos showing the thieves in action.

According to TripAdvisor, the Eternal City occupied the number two spot on the 2016 list of the world’s worst cities for pick-pocketing, after Barcelona. Fur-

ther down the list are other European cities like Athens, Florence, Madrid, Paris and Prague – all tourist hotspots.

Whether it is in the airport, on the bus or in the underground, in front of a monument or inside a museum, one single, short moment of inattention can turn a carefree holiday into a nightmare. Losing your ID, driver’s licence, credit cards and/or cash is difficult at the best of times and even more inconvenient when you are abroad.

CRIME

A distracted tourist in Paris is robbed by a gang of underage pickpockets.

In Milan early in July police arrested a Bosnian woman. The woman had spent a lifetime teaching children how to pickpocket in tourist attractions and railway and underground stations. Remember the handheld videos shot in Milano Centrale showing tiny kids with their hands shamelessly in tourists’ backpacks?

Pick-pocketing, especially pickpocketing tourists, is a multi-million euro business. Milan police commander Francesco Messina calculated the monthly proceedings of a gang of 50 pickpockets: “One child makes €300 a day. That’s €2,100 a week. Multiply by four and then by 50.” In Venice, an association called Cittadini non distratti rallied against the gang of underage pickpockets that is causing havoc in their city. And the business is dominated by networks that operate transnationally – genuine multinationals.

The Dutch police, in collaboration with their Spanish colleagues, identified six networks of pickpockets operating across Europe. Barcelona, where pick-

pocketing accounts for 80 per cent of reported crimes, tops TripAdvisor’s list.

Besides operating in traditional tourist attractions, these networks also flock to tourist events like San Fermín in Pamplona and Geneva’s annual car show.

Less than a week after the Barberini metro assault made local headlines, the nine-year-old pickpocket was back in action. Criminal law states that children below the age of 14 cannot be held responsible for the crimes they commit. Even when the authorities catch an underage pickpocket redhanded, all they can do is escort the minor to a detention centre. Within 20 minutes, the minor will walk free.

Underage pickpockets are invariably controlled by adults. According to Rome police, about 280 minors living in the city’s Roma camps dedicate themselves to pick-pocketing.

There are also many apparently pregnant girls among the thieves. Girls who are visibly over 13 and not pregnant often carry an ultrasound scan

that proves they are expecting: the police cannot detain a pregnant woman or the mother of a one-year-old.

85 per cent of the pupils are girls.

Boys are destined to become topi d’appartamento: they burgle houses and apartments. The few boys who accompany the pickpockets commute between the central tourist areas and the camp so that, when the police catch the thieves, the loot is not lost entirely. These children operate in squads. A leader, often an older, experienced thief, accompanies them. They receive incessant telephone calls. “Don’t come home if you haven’t made enough money. If you come back, Bebo [the father] will beat you up.” Police recorded a mother in a Rome gypsy camp warning her nine children, the eldest being 13, while they were raiding the historic centre.

None of Rome’s authorities – ATAC, the police, the military or the city council – has a coherent, joint approach to tackling the problem. A culture that considers a 13-year-old to be an adult November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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CRIME

Pickpockets often operate around ticket machines at train stations such as Milan's Stazione Centrale (pictured) and Rome's Stazione Termini.

and a potential parent is taking advantage of another culture that declares that person is still an innocent child. But how fast can politicians change legislation that clearly is ineffective? And, in the meantime, what can judges do against those who obviously exploit the loopholes in the law?

“I live in an abandoned farmhouse.

I’ve been taken to Italy by a husband and wife, both of them compatriots of mine,” a 12-year old Romanian pickpocket told the Milan police. On a foggy morning, Francesco Messina and 200 police officers, backed up with a helicopter, raided a farm. In a shed they discovered 30 children aged between 8 and 13 years locked up and chained to the wall: the kids who in Milano Centrale had their hands in tourists’ backpacks. “I’ve bought a leash,” police recorded a woman saying when she referred to a boy that was stubborn.

Yet, it soon turned out that Milan has little power to protect these children. Barely a few hours after their arrest the police had to hand the children back to the extortionists.

In 2010, a network of pickpockets that was managed from Rome was put

on trial in Paris. The court hearings revealed the girls suffered beatings, cigarette burns and rape if they did not make €300 per day. Unsurprisingly, none of the girls showed up at the trial. Another clan boss had simply ”liberated” them.

lights are shining on sets of flat screen televisions, old computers, various kitchen apparel and even bottled and canned food. There is a hustle and bustle. An hour later, by early daylight, everything and everyone will be gone.

Whereas the children find it difficult to escape a life of crime, those who force them into criminality get away with light punishment.

Clan heads invariably turn out to be pluri-convicted in several European countries. After each arrest, Milan’s Bosnian maestra returned to Bosnia or France and then came back to Italy with a new identity. When Dutch police traced another Bosnian couple in the outskirts of Barcelona, they discovered that, for several decades, the husband had been trafficking children in order to turn them into pickpockets. In Austria, a couple who forced 12 kids to steal for ten hours a day was sentenced to three years.

Less than three years later, however, French police discovered the couple was leading an international network of hundreds of underage pickpockets.

On Saturdays, in the centre of Rome, near places like the gasometro in the Ostiense district – in quite an isolated area down by the river – people appraise mobile phones, tablets, digital cameras, handbags that are laid out on blankets. People haggle. People buy. Nobody asks questions about the origin of the wares on display. Nor does anyone ask when spotting a bargain on an e-commerce platform. Do we?

Before dawn, in an open field somewhere in Rome’s periphery, car head-

TRAFFICKING OF MINORS The large numbers of unaccompanied underage migrants arriving in Italy, estimated at 17,373 in 2016, are easy prey for traffickers. But the Italian parliament has recently passed new laws that should offer them more protection. See Laura Clarke’s article in the May edition of Wanted in Rome and on our website.

November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

15

ROME’S MAJOR

MUSEUMS VATICAN MUSEUMS

FOR MORE DETAILS SEE WWW.MUSEIINCOMUNEROMA.IT AND WWW.BENICULTURALI.IT.

Below is a list of the major museums and archaeological sites in Rome. Book tickets for many Rome museums and archaeological sites on tel. 060608 or online at www.060608.it. Book tickets for the Borghese Museum, Etruscan Museum at Villa Giulia, Palazzo Barberini and Palazzo Corsini online at www.beniculturali.it.

Vatican Museums

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860, mv.vatican.va. Not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Egyptian and Etruscan collections and the Pinacoteca. MonSat 09.00-18.00. Sun (and bank holidays) closed except last Sun of month (free entry, 08.30-12.30). All times refer to last entry. For group tours of the museums and Vatican gardens tel.

0669884667. For private tours (museum only) tel. 0669884947. Closed 26 December and 6 January, Easter Sunday and Monday. Advance booking online: www.biglietteriamusei.vatican.va.

PATRONS OF THE ARTS IN THE VATICAN MUSEUMS Tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons. org. For private behind-the-scenes tours in the Vatican Museums.

STATE MUSEUMS BATHS OF DIOCLETIAN Viale Enrico de Nicola 78, tel.

0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Part of the protohistorical section of the Museo Nazionale Romano in the Baths of Diocletian plus the restored cloister by Michelangelo.

09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

BORGHESE MUSEUM Piazzale Scipione Borghese (Villa Borghese), tel. 06328101, www.galleria. borghese.it. Sculptures by Bernini and Canova, paint­ings by Titian, Caravaggio, Raphael, Correggio. 09.00-19.30.

Mon closed. Entry times at 09.00, 11.00, 13.00 15.00, 17.00. Guided tours in English and Italian.

CASTEL S. ANGELO MUSEUM Lungotevere Castello 50, tel.

066819111, www.castelsantangelo. com. Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum used by the popes as a fortress, prison and palace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

COLOSSEUM, ROMAN FORUM AND PALATINE Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo. Palatine: entrances at Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30.

Roman Forum: entrances at Largo Romolo e Remo 5-6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53, tel. 0639967700, www.colosseo-roma.it. 08.30-19.15. Single ticket gives entry to the Colosseum and the Palatine (including the Museo Palatino; last entry one hour before closing).

Guided tours in English and Italian.

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

CRYPTA BALBI Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel.

0639967700, www.archeologia.beniculturali.it. Museum dedicated to the Middle Ages on the site of the ancient ruins of the Roman Theatre of Balbus.

09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian.

ETRUSCAN MUSEUM AT VILLA GIULIA Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571, villagiulia.beniculturali.it. National museum of Etruscan civilisation. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

of 21st-century art, designed by Zaha Hadid. Tues-Sun 11.00-19.00, Thurs and Sat 11.00-22.00. Mon closed.

PALAZZO CORSINI Via della Lungara, 10, tel. 0668802323, www.galleriaborghese.it/corsini/en.

National collection of ancient art, begun by Rome’s Corsini family. 08.3019.30. Tues closed.

GALLERIA NAZIONALE D’ARTE MODERNA Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981, www.gnam.beniculturali.it.

08.3019.30. Mon closed.

MUSEO NAZIONALE D’ARTE ORIENTALE Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832, www.museorientale.it. Interesting national collection of oriental art with some special exhibitions from its own collection and special loans. Tues, Wed, and Fri. 09.00-14.00. Thurs, Sat, Sun. 09.00-19.30. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian on Sun (11.00 and 17.00).

MAXXI Via Guido Reni 6, tel. 063210181, www. fondazionemaxxi.it. National Museum

PALAZZO ALTEMPS Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. An-

Castel S. Angelo

Roman Forum

cient sculpture from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Ludovisi collection. 09.00-19.45. Mon closed.

PALAZZO BARBERINI Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel.

064824184, www.galleriabarberini. beniculturali.it. National collection of 13th- to 16th-century paintings. 08.3019.30. Mon closed.

PALAZZO MASSIMO ALLE TERME Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700, www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it. Important Roman paintings, mosaics, sculpture, coins and an­tiquities from the Museo Nazionale Romano, including the Kircherian collection. 09.0019.45. Mon closed.

VILLA FARNESINA Via della Lungara 230, tel. 0668027268, www.villafarnesina.it. A 16th-century Renaissance villa with important frescoes by Raphael. Mon-Sat 9.00-14.00 excluding holidays.

CITY MUSEUMS CENTRALE MONTEMARTINI Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608, en.centralemontemartini.org.

Over 400 pieces of ancient sculpture from the Capitoline Museums are on show in a former power plant. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in English for groups if reserved in advance.

CAPITOLINE MUSEUMS Piazza del Campidoglio, tel. 060608, en.museicapitolini.org. The city’s collection of ancient sculpture in Palazzo Nuovo and Palazzo dei Conservatori, plus the Tabularium and the Pinacoteca. 09.00-20.00. Mon closed. Guided tours for groups in English and Italian on Sat and Sun. GALLERIA COMUNALE D’ARTE MODERNA Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www.museiincomuneroma.it. The mu-

nicipal modern art collection. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

MACRO Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www. en.museomacro.org. The city’s collection of contemporary art, plus temporary exhibition space. 10.30-19.00. Mon closed. Also MACRO Testaccio, Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608. Open for temporary exhibitions 14.00-20.00.

Mon closed.

MUSEO BARRACCO Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 166, tel.

0668806848, www.mdbr.it. A collection of mainly pre-Roman sculpture. 09.0019.00. Mon closed.

MUSEO CANONICA Viale P. Canonica 2 (Villa Borghese), tel.

060608, www.museocanonica.it. The collection, private apartment and studio of the sculptor and musician Pietro Canonica who died in 1959. 09.00-19.00.

Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English (book ten days in advance).

MUSEO DEI FORI IMPERIALI AND TRAJAN’S MARKETS Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608, en.mercatiditraiano.it. Museum dedicated to the forums of Caesar, Augustus, Nerva and Trajan and the Temple of Peace. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed.

MUSEO NAPOLEONICO Piazza di Ponte Umberto 1, tel. 060608, www.museonapoleonico.it. Paintings, sculptures and jewellery related to Napoleon and the Bonaparte family. 09.0019.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in Italian and English.

MUSEO DI ROMA – PALAZZO BRASCHI Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608, en.museodiroma.it. The city’s collection of paintings, etchings, photographs, furniture and clothes from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. 09.00-19.00. Mon closed. Guided tours in English and Italian on prior booking tel. 0682059127.

PRIVATE MUSEUMS CASA DI GOETHE Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www. casadigoethe.it. Museum dedicated to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. 10.0018.00. Mon closed.

CHIOSTRO DEL BRAMANTE Bramante’s Renaissance building near Piazza Navona stages exhibitions by important Italian and international artists. Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

DORIA PAMPHILJ GALLERY Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323, www.doriapamphilj.it. Residence of the Doria Pamphilj family, it contains the family’s private art collection, which includes a portrait by Velasquez, a sculpture by Bernini, plus works by Raphael, Titian, Tintoretto and Caravaggio. 09.00-19.00.

GALLERIA COLONNA Palazzo Colonna, Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350, www.galleriacolonna.it.

Private collection of works by Veronese, Guido Reni, Pietro di Cortona and Annibale Caracci. Sat 09.00-13.00 only.

Private group tours are available seven days a week on request. For wheelchair access contact the gallery to arrange alternative entrance.

GIORGIO DE CHIRICO HOUSE MUSEUM Piazza di Spagna 31, tel. 066796546, www.fondazionedechirico.org. Museum dedicated to the Metaphysical painter Giorgio de Chirico. Tues-Sat, first Sun of month, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00. Guided tours in English, advance booking.

KEATS-SHELLEY HOUSE Piazza di Spagna 26, tel. 066784235, www. keats-shelley-house.it. Museum dedicated to the lives of three English Romantic poets – John Keats, Percy Bysshe Shelley and Lord Byron. Mon-Sat 10.00-13.00, 14.00-18.00.

Guided tours on prior booking.

November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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ROME’S MOST ACTIVE AND CONTEMPORARY

ART GALLERIES 1/9 UNOSUNOVE 1/9 Unosunove focuses on emerging national and international contemporary artists and explores various media including paintings, sculpture and photography. Via degli Specchi 20, tel.

0697613696, www.unosunove.com.

A.A.M. ARCHITETTURA ARTE MODERNA Gallery housing numerous works of contemporary design, photography, drawings and architecture projects. Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537, www.ffmaam.it.

ASSOCIAZIONE CULTURALE VALENTINA MONCADA Gallery holds exhibitions of international artists who are active in the international scene today. Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956, www.valentinamoncada.com.

DOROTHY CIRCUS GALLERY Prominent gallery specialising in international pop-surrealist art. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www.dorothycircusgallery.com.

EX ELETTROFONICA This architecturally unique contemporary art gallery promotes and supports the work of young international artists. Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel.

0664760163, www.exelettrofonica. com.

FEDERICA SCHIAVO GALLERY Hosts large solo and group shows of well-known contemporary artists. Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028, www.federicaschiavo.com.

FONDAZIONE GIULIANI PER L’ARTE CONTEMPORANEA The Giuliani Foundation for Contemporary Art is a private non-profit foundation that produces three contemporary art exhibitions each year. Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091, www.fondazionegiuliani.org.

FONDAZIONE PASTIFICO CERERE This non-profit foundation develops and promotes educational projects and residencies for young artists and curators, as well as a programme of exhibitions, lectures, workshops and studio visits. Via degli Ausoni 7, tel.

0645422960, www.pastificiocerere. com.

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

FONDAZIONE MEMMO Contemporary art space that hosts established foreign artists for sitespecific exhibitions. Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598, www. fondazionememmo.it.

GALLERIA FRAMMENTI D’ARTE Gallery promoting painting, design and photography by emerging and established Italian and international artists. Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142, www.fdaproject.com.

FONDAZIONE VOLUME! The Volume Foundation exhibits works created specifically for the gallery with the goal of fusing art and landscape.

Via di S. Francesco di Sales 86-88, tel.

06 6892431, www.fondazionevolume. com.

GALLERIA LORCAN O’NEILL High-profile international artists regularly exhibit at this gallery located near Campo de’ Fiori. Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

FRANZ PALUDETTO Gallery in S. Lorenzo that promotes the work of Italian and international contemporary artists. Via degli Ausoni 18, www.franzpaludetto.com.

FRUTTA GALLERY This contemporary art gallery supports international and local artists in its unique space. Via dei Salumi 53, tel.

0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

GAGOSIAN GALLERY The Rome branch of this international contemporary art gallery hosts some of the biggest names in modern art. Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.

0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

Galleria della Tartaruga

GALLERIA MARIE-LAURE FLEISCH This contemporary art space is dedicated to exhibiting works on paper.

Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936, www.galleriamlf.com.

GALLERIA DELLA TARTARUGA Well-established gallery that has promoted important Italian and foreign artists since 1975. Via Sistina 85/A, tel.

066788956, www.galleriadellatartaruga.com.

GALLERIA IL SEGNO Prestigious gallery showing work by major Italian and international artists since 1957. Via Capo le Case 4, tel.

066791387, www.galleriailsegno.com.

GALLERIA MUCCIACCIA Gallery near Piazza del Popolo promoting established contemporary artists and emerging talents. Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801, www.galleriamucciaccia.com.

GIACOMO GUIDI ARTE CONTEMPORANEA This contemporary art gallery presents exhibitions from a diverse group of Italian and foreign artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Corso V. Emanuele II 282-284, tel. 0668801038, www.giacomoguidi.it.

November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea

GALLERIA VARSI A small but dynamic gallery near Campo de’ Fiori, known for its stable of street artists. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, tel. 0668309410, www.galleriavarsi.it.

NOMAS FOUNDATION Nomas Foundation promotes contemporary research in art and experimental exhibitions. Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381, www.nomasfoundation.com.

IL PONTE CONTEMPORANEA Hosts exhibitions representing the international scene and contemporary artists of different generations. Via di Panico 5559, tel. 0668801351, www.ilpontecontemporanea.com.

OPERATIVA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA A new space oriented towards younger artists. Via del Consolato 10, www.operativa-arte.com.

LA NUOVA PESA Well-established gallery showing work by prominent Italian artists. Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892, www.nuovapesa.it.

MAC MAJA ARTE CONTEMPORANEA Gallery devoted to exhibitions by prominent Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 30, www.majartecontemporanea.com.

MAGAZZINO D’ARTE MODERNA Contemporary art galley that focuses on young and emerging artists. Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951, www.magazzinoartemoderna.com.

MATÈRIA Matèria specialises in contemporary photographic practice and visual culture. Via Tiburtina 149, www.materiagallery.com.

MONITOR This contemporary art gallery offers an experimental space for a new generation of artists. Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A, tel. 0639378024, www.monitoronline.org.

MONSERRATO ARTE ‘900 This gallery in the Campo de’ Fiori area represents a range of contemporary Italian artists. Via di Monserrato 14, tel.

348/2833034.

MONTORO12 Gallery promoting work by contemporary Italian and international artists. Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500, www. m12gallery.com.

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

PIAN DE’ GIULLARI Art studio-gallery in the house of Carlina and Andrea Bottai showing works by contemporary artists from Rome, Naples and Florence capable of transmitting empathy and emotions. Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603, www.piandegiullari2. blogspot.com.

PLUS ARTE PULS Cultural association and gallery showing work by important contemporary Italian and international artists. Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795, www.plusartepuls.com.

RvB ARTS Rome-based gallery specialising in affordable contemporary art by young, emerging Italian artists. Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518, www. rvbarts.com.

SALA 1 This internationally known non-profit contemporary art gallery provides an experimental research centre for contemporary art, architecture, performance and music. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 067008691, www. salauno.com.

SPAZIO NUOVO Gallery featuring international photographers who create dialogue between classical and contemporary art. Via d’Ascanio 20, tel. 0689572855, www. spazionuovo.net.

S.T. FOTO LIBRERIA GALLERIA Gallery in Borgo Pio representing a diverse range of contemporary art pho-

tography. Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel.

0664760105, www.stsenzatitolo.it.

STUDIO SALES DI NORBERTO RUGGERI The gallery exhibits pieces by both Italian and international contemporary artists particularly minimalist, postmodern and abstract work. Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122, www. galleriasales.it.

T293 The Rome branch of this contemporary art gallery presents national and international artists and hosts multiple solo exhibitions. Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475, www.t293.it.

THE GALLERY APART This contemporary art gallery supports young artists in their research and assists them in their projects to help them emerge into the international art world. Via Francesco Negri 43, tel.

0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

TRALEVOLTE This contemporary art gallery focuses on the relationship between art and architecture and hosts many solo and group shows of Italian and international artists. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663, www.tralevolte.org.

VALENTINA BONOMO Located in a former convent, this gallery hosts both internationally recognised and emerging artists who create works specifically for the gallery space. Via del Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766, www.galleriabonomo.com.

WUNDERKAMMERN This gallery promotes innovative research of contemporary art. Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662, www. wunderkammern.net.

Z20 GALLERIA SARA ZANIN Started by art historian Sara Zanin, Z2o Galleria offers a range of innovative national and international contemporary artists. Via della Vetrina 21, tel.

0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

WHERE TO GO IN ROME

EXHIBITIONS DOROTHY CIRCUS GALLERY 11 Nov-15 Dec Rome’s Dorothy Circus Gallery, which specialises in international popsurrealist art, celebrates its 10th anniversary by holding a special group exhibition entitled Pages From Mind Travellers Diaries. The show features a selection of the gallery’s stable of pop surrealists from around the world including Britain, Canada, Italy, Russia and the US. The exhibition also coincides with the launch of a new Dorothy Circus Gallery in London. Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928, www. dorothycircusgallery.it.

a set of three canvases titled Bandiera.

MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea, Via di Monserrato 30, tel. 0668804621, www. majartecontemporanea.com.

VIDEORLAN: TECHNOLOGY 25 Oct-3 Dec MACRO celebrates the career of veteran French artist and performer ORLAN who is best known for her work with plastic surgery in the early to mid1990s. This exhibition showcases her early photographic sculptures, video performances and her latest works incorporating augmented reality and 3D, including her recent interactive installation Expériente Mise en jeu. See cover of this edition. MACRO, Via Nizza 138, tel. 060608, www.museomacro. org.

BERNINI 1 Nov-Feb Rome’s Galleria Borghese celebrates the 20th anniversary of its reopening with an exhibition dedicated to Gian Lorenzo Bernini, whose spectacular sculptures are among the highlights of the museum’s collection. The exhibition includes numerous loans of Bernini works from important international collections.

Galleria Borghese, Piazzale Scipione Borghese 5, tel. 068413979, www. galleriaborghese.beniculturali.it.

BETTY WOODMAN 20 Oct-18 Nov Galleria Lorcan O’Neill shows a special group of works by celebrated American artist Betty Woodman, one year on from her joint exhibition with Kiki Smith.

Woodman, who for the past 40 years has been based between Tuscany and New York, combines lacquered ceramic and painted canvas to make colourful three-dimensional works. Galleria Lorcan O’Neill, Vicolo dei Catinari, tel.

0668892980, www.lorcanoneill.com.

PIERRE-YVES LE DUC: HANDLE WITH CARE 27 Oct-9 Dec MAC Maja Arte Contemporanea shows the work of French artist Pierre-Yves Le Duc in Rome for the first time. Le Duc is known for his monumental sitespecific installations featuring light boxes, canvases and anthropomorphic symbols. Curated by Daina Maja Titonel, the exhibition includes 12 works selected from the artist’s GU series, four included in the Cosmic whore series, and

TOTÒ GENIO 20 Oct-18 Feb The Museo di Roma in Trastevere traces the multi-faceted figure of Antonio de Curtis, better known by his stage name Totò, on the 50th anniversary of his death. The exhibition highlights how this old-style entertainer was not only a comedian and actor of stage and screen but also a poet and song-writer.

Museo di Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1B, tel. 065816563, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.

GIUSEPPE ARCIMBOLDO 19 Oct-11 Feb Palazzo Barberini presents an exhibition of more than 70 works by Giuseppe Arcimboldo (1526-1593), an Italian painter best known for creating imaginative portrait heads made entirely of objects such as fruits, vegetables, flowers, fish and books.

Palazzo Barberini, Via delle Quattro Fontane 13, tel. 064814591, www. barberinicorsini.org.

Betty Woodman at Galleria Lorcan O’Neill.

Shy Girl.

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

MONET 19 Oct-28 Jan The Vittoriano hosts an exhibition devoted to Monet, the father of Impressionism, with some 60 works from the Musée Marmottan Monet in Paris, including landscapes, portraits

Dorothy Circus Gallery celebrates its tenth anniversary in Rome with a group show.

Untamed Thoughts by Naoto Hattori.

and his celebrated garden series of water lilies. Complesso del Vittoriano - Ala Brasini di Roma, Via di S. Pietro in Carcere (Piazza Venezia), www. ilvittoriano.com.

FRANCESCO TROMBADORI: L’ESSENZIALE VERITÀ DELLE COSE 13 Oct-11 Feb Rome’s municipal modern art gallery on Via Francesco Crispi examines the close connection between the Sicilianborn painter Francesco Trombadori (1886-1961) and his adopted Rome.

The 60 paintings on display, painted between 1915 and 1961, span the career of Trombadori who was a prominent figure in the Scuola Romana art movement. The exhibition also includes drawings, catalogues and newspaper articles from the artist’s archives, housed in his former studio at Villa Strohl-Fern. Galleria d’Arte Moderna di Roma Capitale, Via Francesco Crispi 24, tel. 060608, www. galleriaartemodernaroma.it.

HOKUSAI: SULLE ORME DEL MAESTRO 12 Oct-14 Jan The Ara Pacis displays more than 200 works by Katsushika Hokusai (17601849) including The Great Wave and One Hundred Views of Mount Fuji. The exhibition comprises Hokusai’s entire collected drawings and paintings, displayed in two phases to protect the most fragile works, including two different versions of The Great Wave.

Ara Pacis, Lungotevere in Augusta, tel.

06820771, www.arapacis.it.

KONRÄD MAGI 10 Oct-28 Jan This exhibition at the Galleria Nazionale is the first major show in Europe dedicated to the work of

important Italian artists such as Alberto Savinio, Giacomo Manzù and Giorgio Morandi, alongside works by foreign artists including Henry Moore and Cy Twombly. Renato Guttuso. Un uomo innamorato highlights the career of the Sicilian neorealist, including 23 works as well as archive photographs and film. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www. lagallerianazionale.com.

STILL SHOWING

Konrad Mägi exhibition at Galleria Nazionale. Landscape with a red cloud.

important Estonian artist Konrad Mägi (1878-1925) known primarily for his vibrant, expressionistic landscapes.

Mägi’s travels in Europe saw his style influenced by Art Nouveau, Impressionism, Fauvism and finally Expressionism. The show has been organised in collaboration with the Estonian national art museum, the Eesti Kunstimuuseum, to mark Estonia’s centenary as a republic and its current presidency of the Council of the European Union. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel.

0632298221, www.lagallerianazionale. com.

Francesco Trombadori exhibition at the municipal art gallery. Fanciulla nuda che legge.

L’ICONA RUSSA: PREGHIERA E MISERICORDIA 10 Oct-3 Dec Through the display of 36 icons from the 17th-18th centuries, this exhibition highlights the traditional Russian genre which combines spirituality with figurative art, uniting both the Catholic and Orthodox churches. Palazzo Braschi, Piazza di S. Pantaleo 10 (Piazza Navona), www.museodiroma.it.

PATRIZIA COMAND: LA NAVE DEI FOLLI 10 Oct-12 Nov Museo di Palazzo Cipolla presents an exhibition of recent work by Patrizia Comand inspired by the 15thcentury poem Das Narrenschiff (The Ship of Fools) by Sebastian Brant.

The exhibition is centred around a large-scale painting, featuring floating and dancing figures, alongside 20 preparatory drawings and designs.

Palazzo Cipolla, Fondazione Roma Museo, Via del Corso 320, tel. 066786209, www. fondazioneromamuseo.it.

PALMA BUCARELLI / RENATO GUTTUSO 3 Oct-26 Nov The Galleria Nazionale holds two parallel exhibitions: one dedicated to the gallery’s former director Palma Bucarelli (1910-1998), the other to painter Renato Guttuso on the 30th anniversary of his death. Palma Bucarelli. La sua collezione features 43 works from the collection of the legendary director who headed the gallery from 1941 to 1976. The exhibition comprises paintings by

MANGASIA: WONDERLANDS OF ASIAN COMICS 7 Oct-21 Jan A comprehensive look at Asian comic books, displaying original cartoons alongside their publications as well as scripts, sketches and layout designs.

The works on display come from Japan, North Korea, South Korea, India, China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines and Singapore. The exhibition also includes illustrations from emerging comic book scenes such as Bhutan, Cambodia, East Timor, Mongolia and Vietnam. Palazzo delle Esposizioni, Via Nazionale 194, tel.

0639967500, www.palazzoesposizioni. it.

Giuseppe Arcimboldo at Palazzo Barberini.

Priapo (Ortolano).

È SOLO UN INIZIO: 1968 3 Oct-14 Jan On the 50th anniversary of the 1968 protests that shook London, Paris, Berlin and Rome, the Galleria Nazionale examines the role of art within the social and political context of the era. Curated

by Ester Coen, the exhibition features important Italian and international artists belonging to movements such as minimalism, conceptualism, November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

23

land art and arte povera. The artists include Joan Jonas, Jannis Kounellis, Yayoi Kusama, Sol LeWitt, Richard Long, Richard Moore, Luigi Ontani, Christo, Giosetta Fioroni and Andy Warhol. Galleria Nazionale, Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 0632298221, www. lagallerianazionale.com.

SEPE: SLEEPING THROUGH THE WAR 29 Sept-12 Nov Galleria Varsi launches its new larger permises with a solo show by Polish urban artist Sepe. The Warsawbased artist is known for his pictorial style reflecting a critical vision of contemporary society, distorting the human figure with spray, acrylic, ink, pencil and markers. The Varsi exhibition comprises reflections on the nature of war, drawn from Sepe’s interaction with local cultures during his art travels around the world. Via di Grotta Pinta 38, www.galleriavarsi.it.

KEMANG WA LEHULERE: BIRD SONG 27 Sept-26 Nov The MAXXI presents Italy’s first solo show dedicated to the work of Kemang Wa Lehulere, the Deutsche Bank’s Artist of the Year 2017. Featuring installations, videos, paintings, drawings and music, the exhibition focuses on the dialogue between the works of Cape Town’s Kemang Wa Lehulere and those of Gladys Mgudlandlu (1917-1979).

Wa Lehulere draws inspiration from Mgudlandlu who in the 1960s became one of the first black artists to exhibit in a gallery in South Africa. Birds were a

L’Icona russa at Palazzo Braschi. Madre di Dio Odigitria (di Šuja) con santi sullo sfondo.

frequent motif in her work, earning her the moniker Bird Lady. Wa Lehulere, who grew up in the same Gugulethu township as Mgudlandlu, uses this project to tackle themes such as history and time, memory and the artist’s role in society. MAXXI Museo nazionale delle arti del XXI secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0632810, www.maxxi.art.

‘77 23 Sept-14 Jan The works of photographer Tano D’Amico and artist Pablo Echaurren recall the turbulent events in Italy in 1977, a period of social and political turmoil during the so-called Years of Lead, an era fuelled by left-wing and right-wing terrorism.

Picasso: Tra Cubismo e Classicismo 1915-1925 exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale. Two women running on the beach. © Succession Picasso, by SIAE 2017. See page 23.

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Renato Guttuso exhibition at the Galleria Nazionale. Self portrait. See page 21.

Museo Roma in Trastevere, Piazza S. Egidio 1/b, tel. 065816563, www. museodiromaintrastevere.it.

ROWENA HARRIS: SOFT BOUNDARIES 23 Sept-22 Dec The Gallery Apart presents its second solo show by Rowena Harris whose exhibition illustrates the ever-blurring boundaries between real and virtual, material and digital. The Gallery Apart, Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863, www.thegalleryapart.it.

SILENTLY CLOSE ARE SOME PARTICLES 20 Sept-11 Nov Curated by Marinella Paderni, this group show explores the subtle changes and silent transformations in our everyday lives, examining the role played by art in providing insights into what is otherwise invisible or imperceptible. The exhibition features the work of three visual artists: Letizia Cariello, Silvia Camporesi and Jakub Woynarowski, whose diverse creations are united by the study of slowly-developing events. z2o Sara Zanin Gallery, Via della Vetrina 21, tel.

0670452261, www.z2ogalleria.it.

BEDWYR WILLIAMS: HUUUUUUGE THANKS! 16 Sept-11 Nov Welsh multimedia artist Bedwyr Williams, whose work combines quirky installations and stand-up comedy, presents a show at Rome’s Frutta Gallery. His exhibition takes as its starting-point the line: “A best man takes Ecstasy at a Wedding and Dies.”

Frutta Gallery, Via dei Salumi 53, tel.

0645508934, www.fruttagallery.com.

everyday life, blending reality with fiction. AlbumArte, Via Flaminia 122, tel. 063243882, www.albumarte.org.

Kemang Wa Lehulere exhibition at MAXXI. My Apologies to Time. See page 22.

GIUSEPPE DE MATTIA 15 Sept-17 Nov Matèria Gallery presents Dispositivo per non vedere bene (Device to impede a good view), an experimental artwork by Giuseppe De Mattia. The installation, showcased in the gallery’s two rooms and courtyard, questions the role of photography as a tool for documenting reality, with a particular focus on Rome whose historic beauty is sometimes offset by its less photogenic contemporary state. Matèria Gallery, Via Tiburtina 149, www.materiagallery. com.

PICASSO: TRA CUBISMO E CLASSICISMO 1915-1925 22 Sept-21 Jan The Scuderie del Quirinale presents one of the largest exhibitions ever dedicated to Picasso in Italy, a century after the artist set foot in the country. The show examines Italy’s long-term impact on Picasso’s work – his inspiration from ancient Roman statues and erotic frescoes in Pompeii

Visioni geometriche at MACRO. Operazione spaziocromatica by Lia Drei.

– and his private life – he met his first wife, the Russian ballet dancer Olga Khokhlova in Rome while he designed the costumes and sets for the ballet Parade. The 100 works on display range from 1915 to 1925, comprising Cubism to Classicism, with loans from major museums in London, Paris, New York, Berlin and Barcelona. The show includes masterpieces such as Olga in an Armchair (1917), Léonide Massine as Harelquin (1917), Two Women Running on the Beach (1922), and Harelquin with mirror (1923). In addition to the Scuderie, Palazzo Barberini hosts an immense canvas that Picasso painted as the backdrop for Parade, the reason for his arrival in Italy in February 1917. Scuderie del Quirinale, Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0639967500, www. scuderiequirinale.it.

DAVIDE BALULA: IRON LEVELS 21 Sept-18 Nov The Gagosian shows new works by French artist Davide Balula who is known for his paintings, sculptures, photographs, performances, and sitespecific installations that combine elements of natural matter with man-made structures. Balula’s Rome exhibition comprises an “experiential journey, intimately connected with the architecture of the space.” Gagosian Gallery, Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel.

0642086498, www.gagosian.com.

TRA CIGLIA E PENSIERO 18 Sept-11 Nov AlbumArte presents an exhibition by the Lithuanian artist Eglė Budvytytė whose video works are shown in Italy for the first time. The selection of performance videos reflect on the social and economic aspects of

ZAHA HADID AND ITALY 23 June-28 Jan MAXXI hosts an exhibition dedicated to the Italian projects of the late architect Zaha Hadid, including the recently-opened Terminal Marittimo in Salerno, the Messner Mountain Museum in Plan de Corones, the almost complete City Life project in Milan and the MAXXI building itself.

The exhibition comprises plans and three-dimensional models designed by the Iraqi architect, who had an intensive and enduring relationship with Italy until her death in March last year. MAXXI Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI Secolo, Via Guido Reni 4, tel.

0632810, www.fondazionemaxxi.it.

VISIONI GEOMETRICHE 23 June-26 Nov MACRO presents the fifth installment in the series of exhibitions comprising works from its collection. The show includes around 25 paintings and sculptures, dating from the early 1960s onwards, by Italian artists whose work is linked by geometric themes. MACRO, Via Nizza, 138, www.museomacro.org.

Giuseppe De Mattia exhibition at Matèria Gallery. Lupa.

LUIGI ONTANI 17 May-25 Nov The prestigious Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca presents a retrospective of the work of Luigi Ontani, considered one of Italy’s most innovative contemporary artists. The exhibition comprises 60 works, ranging from November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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large performance photographs of the early 1970s to his distinctive ceramic sculptures. Since the late 1960s Ontani has experimented with an array of media to explore historical, allegorical and mythological themes, and in 2011 his Lapsus Lupus featured on a Wanted in Rome cover. Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca, Piazza dell’Accademia di S. Luca 77, www.accademiasanluca.eu/it.

EXHIBITION REVIEW ENJOY: L’ARTE INCONTRA IL DIVERTIMENTO 23 Sept-25 Feb With the subtitle Art Meets Amusement, this immersive exhibition at Chiostro del Bramante features modern art works and site-specific installations by some of the world’s “most prominent and provocative protagonists of contemporary art”.

Visitors participate immediately in the show, walking across the courtyard whose boldly-coloured floral floor is the work of Taiwan-born artist Michael Lin. Indoors a classic red mobile by Alexander Calder dangles from the ceiling, before the exhibition dives head first into the mesmerising world of English artist Mat Collishaw whose Centrifugal Soul surges out of the darkness. Collishaw’s stunning work is centred around a spinning zootrope, a Victorian-era optical device, which features the mating rituals of birds of paradise and flowers blooming magically.

The Centrifugal Soul (detail) by Mat Collishaw. Photo courtesy Peter Mallet.

Luigi Ontani at Accademia Nazionale di S. Luca. ElectricThrone, Serie AnamorPose.

Courtesy Luigi Ontani.

COLOSSEO: UN’ICONA 8 March-7 Jan This exhibition uses installations, models and artefacts to shed light on how the Colosseum was used in the centuries after the fall of the Roman empire. The show includes recentlydiscovered evidence of a 12th-century fortress, which was built into the arena’s ruins by the powerful Frangipane family but collapsed in the 1349 earthquake. The exhibition recounts how the amphitheatre was pillaged for stone, how it was used for stables, slaughterhouses and workshops during the mediaeval era, and how the monument was completely overgrown by the time the Grand Tourists arrived in the 18th century. Colosseum, www. coopculture.it.

See other exhibitions on our website www.wantedinrome.com. For more What’s On listings see page 26.

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The next room contains the bizarre sculptures and moving contraptions of Swiss surrealist master Jean Tinguely but – depending on the timing – be prepared for a glorious fright.

The exhibition then leads into a disconcerting labyrinth of mirrored changing rooms by Buenos Aires artist Leandro Erlich. Stepping in and out of these pannelled cubicles, visitors quickly lose all sense of direction and – despite the room being fully lit – inevitably end up feeling their way forward by hand. Perhaps this is what the exhibition’s curator Danilo Eccher had in mind when he said that the “public itself becomes a work of art.” In the corridor guests mingle between eyeball orbs, large, blinking and suspended low, by New York artist Tony Oursler; steel abstract sculpture complete with welcoming hammock by Brasil’s Ernesto Neto; and the Prismo meccanico rotating disks – which resemble spinning coloured lollipops – by Turin’s Piero Fogliati.

The maniacal canned laughter of controversial Rome artist Gino De Domincis (1947-1998) echoes around the winding staircase to the next floor which begins with Austrian Erwn Wurm’s giant police hat. Visitors are encouraged to duck under the cap to become a “one minute sculpture” as well as have themselves photographed in the out-sized polka dot armchair by Italy’s Study 65. Photos can be posted on social media with the hashtag #Enjoychiostro.

Bottles of Scotch and Japanese sake form part of Wurm’s selection of “furniture for drinkers” next door to a room jammed full of red balloons by English artist Martin Creed, courtesy of Rome’s Galleria Lorcan O’Neill. Outside a sculpture by Belgian Hans Op De Beck comprises three slices of an enormous gooey cake, topped with fruit and candles, while opposite, up a couple of steps, the exhibition ends on a high note.

Sealed inside a pitch-black room, visitors are entranced by Flowers and people, a digital installation by Japan’s teamLab, featuring plants surging to life before dispersing into minuscule petals, as if handfuls of hundreds-and-thousands were thrown into outer space in slow motion.

The show is a feast for the senses and will appeal to both children and adults. Visitors will leave exhilarated if slightly disorientated. Enjoy.

Andy Devane Chiostro del Bramante, Via della Pace, tel. 06916508451, www.chiostrodelbramante.it.

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Via della Lungara, 233 00165 Rome, Italy +39 066819121

CLASSICAL The seasons of the main musical associations and auditoriums in Rome are now in full swing and there are also excellent concerts in some of the city’s churches.

Auditorium Conciliazione, Via della Conciliazione 4, www.auditoriumconciliazione.it.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

Accademia Filarmonica Romana, Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

The new season started on 15 Oct. Accademia S. Cecilia, www.santacecilia. it. All the concerts take place at the Auditorium Parco della Musica (see address above). The new season started on 5 Oct. Istituzione Universitaria dei Concerti, Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

Oratorio del Gonfalone, Via del Gonfalone 32a, www.oratoriogonfalone. com. Usually starts in Nov. Rome Concerts, Methodist Church, Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, www.romeconcerts.it.

Roma Sinfonietta, Auditorium Ennio Morricone, Torvergata, www.romasinfonietta.com.

Roma Tre Orchestra, Teatro Palladium, teatropalladium.uniroma3.it.

ACCADEMIA FILARMONICA BEETHOVENKLAVIER II 15-Oct-17 Dec This series is the follow-up to the programme which started last year to perform all of Beethoven’s 32 piano sonatas. In some performances the Beethoven piece is combined with a new contemporary piece of music. The third evening on 19 Nov sees two young pianists, Bruno Mereu and Ludovica Vincenti play opus 10 and 14. They are followed by Mariangela Vacatello and Marco Momi on 3 Dec. Vacatello plays three Beethoven sonatas, including the Pathetic, and Momi performs his own 2015 composition called Almost Close. Beethoven’s piano sonatas were written between 1795 and 1822 and are considered an important bridge between private performances for a small audience and public ones in a concert hall. Sala Casella, Via Flaminia 118, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

CONCERTO BAROCCO 5 Nov This concert at the Rome Cavalieri Hilton is subtitled Passeggiata musicale romana da Caravaggio a Bernini. It is a mix of arias, sonatas, sacred and profane music, by

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known and lesser-known composers.

Terrazza degli Aranci, Rome Cavalieri, www.filarmonicaromana.org.

DON GIOVANNI 9-26 Nov This new work by the Orchestra di Piazza Vittorio, which was commissioned by the Accademia Fillarmonica Romana for this year’s Nuits de Fourviere festival in Lyon, transforms Don Giovanni into an androgynous character, sung by a female voice, who seduces both sexes. The work is set in a contemporary framework of a 1920s nightclub. Teatro Olimpico, Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, www. teatroolimpico.it.

ACCADEMIA S. CECILIA MARIO BRUNELLO 2-4 Nov Italian cellist Mario Brunello plays music by Brahms, Schumman and Mendelssohn with the S. Cecilia orchestra conducted by Vasily Petrenko. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

MENDELSSOHN AND BEETHOVEN 9-11 Nov Andrés Orozco-Estrada conducts the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus playing Mendelssohn’s Midsummer Night’s Dream and Beethoven’s 5th symphony.

Orozco-Estrada is the principal guest conductor of the London Philarmonica and the music director of the Houston Symphony. The incidental music of Mendelssohn’s Midsummer Night’s Dream was written in 1842, well after the overture of the same name which Mendelssohn wrote when he was 17.

In this concert Maura Menghini sings the first elf and Francesca Calò the second elf. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www. auditorium.com.

ALINA POGOSTKINA 16-18 Nov Violinist Alina Pogostkina debuts at S. Cecilia with Prokofiev’s concerto number 1. Pogostkina is conducted by the Mikko Frank with the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus. The programme also includes Rautavaara’s Angel and Visitations and Mussorgsky Pictures at an Exhibition in the arrangement by Ravel. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

RAFAL BLECHACZ 20 Nov As part of the chamber music season pianist Rafal Blechacz returns to S. Cecilia playing music by Bach, Beethoven and

Ramin Bahrami and Danilo Rea perform Bach is in the Air at the IUC.

Chopin. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium. com.

AN EVENING OF FRENCH MUSIC 24-26 Nov French conductor Stėfane Denève and French pianist Jean-Yves Thibaudet perform a programme of 19th-century French music by Ibert, Saint-Saens, Debussy and Ravel with the orchestra and chorus of S. Cecilia. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

LITTLE RUSSIA SEYMON BYCHKOV 30 Nov-2 Dec Conductor Symon Bychkov leads the S. Cecilia orchestra and chorus in a programme of Russian music

by Mussorgsky, Tchaikovsky and Rachmaninov. With Evelina Dobraceva soprano, Sergey Radchenko tenor and Dimitry Ivashchenko bass. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

MAURIZIO POLLINI 4 Dec Maurizio Pollini plays Chopin nocturnes, ballads and sonata opus 58 as part of the S. Cecilia chamber music season.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin 30, www.auditorium.com.

ISTITUZIONE UNIVERSITARIA DEI CONCERTI ISABELLE FAUST AND KRISTIAN BEZUIDENHOUT 4 Nov Isabelle Faust, violin, and Kristian Bezuidenhout, harpsichord, play five Bach sonatas. The Guardian has written of Faust: “Where other violinists dazzle, Faust is a thinker,” and conductor Daniel

S. Cecilia academy and has a wide repertoire of classical and modern works. Kancheli, who now lives in Belgium, has writen seven symphonies.

He uses minor melodies, dischordants and dramatic climaxes. The music in this programme comes from his book of piano pieces Simple Music for Piano and his 12 miniatures for voice and piano is being performed for the first time in Italy. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

Alina Pogostkina debuts with the S. Cecilia orchestra.

Harding has described the quality of her playing as “uncluttered honesty”.

Bezuidenhout is an early keyboard specialist. He is equally at home on the harpsichord, the fortepiano and the modern piano and is very eloquent at explaining the differences. Their programme at the IUC is similar to one they performed at the Wigmore Hall in London in 2016. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

BAHRAMI AND REA BACH IS IN THE AIR 7 Nov This is the Rome premiere of Bach is in the Air. Ramin Bahrami, who was given a scholarship in Italy after his family fled Iran after the fall of the Shah, is passionate about Bach. Danilo Rea is a jazz pianist, so the combination should make for a memorable evening with plenty of improvisation but with rigourous respect for what Bach composed. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

ALEXANDER MALOFEEV 11 Nov This is the Russian pianist’s Italian debut, at the age of 17. He is performing a programme of music by Chopin, Prokiev, Ravel and Rachmaninov. He has been called Valery Gergiev’s latest protégé and is a pupil of Gergiev’s sister. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www.concertiiuc.it.

SPIRA MIRABILIS 21 Nov Spira Mirabilis has a new concept of the orchestra. Its members work without a conductor, learning from each other and disregarding the hectic routine of concert performances. They offer the audience an in-depth interpretation

of a single, probably familiar work, and engage with the audience.

The Times reviewer described their performance of Beethoven’s Pastoral symphony in London in 2012 as “one of the most glorious interpretations I have ever heard.” Here Spira Miralbilis plays Brahms’ first symphony. Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www. concertiiuc.it.

DANIEL MELINGO 25 Nov Daniel Melingo’s quintet explores the tango. Melingo comes from a background of Argentinian rock music but turned to tango in the late 1990s when he was “feeling musically restless.”

Melingo explains that Argentina’s rock nacional, where he first started, is part of his country’s musical tradition and grew out of tango, with the same sort of melanchology, urban images and humour. He in turn has brought a new influence from rock to modern tango.

He has been described as the “man who made tango seriously cool.” Aula Magna, Università la Sapienza, www. concertiiuc.it.

HOMAGE TO GIYA KANCHELI 5 Dec The first complete performance of two pieces by Georgian composer by Giya Kancheli with Nino Surguladze mezzosoprano and Alessandro Stella piano. Tbilisi-born Surguladze, who is often referred to as the Penelope Cruise of opera, won a scholarship to La Scala Academy and has sung in the top opera houses around the world and in Italy. For her promotion of GeorgianItalian relations she has been awarded the Cavaliere della Stella d’Italia by Italy’s president, Sergio Mattarella.

Pianist Stella graduated from the

CONCERTS IN ROME CHURCHES There are various concerts and festivals in several churches in Rome this autumn.

S. Agnese in Agone Liszt and Friends concerts every Fri until 22 Dec, in the Sagrestia del Borromini.

S. Angelo Methodist Church Italian Bel Canto and Romantic piano every Fri at Ponte S. Angelo.

St Paul’s Within the Walls Luminaria: Music by candlelight every Sun, Via Nazionale and the corner of Via Napoli, www.stpaulsrome.it.

POP, ROCK, JAZZ UNPLUGGED IN MONTI 7, 22 Nov Unplugged in Monti presents two separate acoustic performances in November at the intimate setting of Blackmarket in the capital’s Monti district. On 7 Nov the haunting vocals of Californian folk singer Haley Heynderickx are coupled with This Frontier Needs Heroes, an American group known for its powerful ballads and harmonies. On 22 Nov it is the turn of Elle Mary And The Bad Men, a Manchester group whose stirring folk-noir rhythms are built around the soulful lyrics of Welsh singer Elle Mary. As usual there is a limited amount of tickets which must be reserved in advance. For details see Unplugged in Monti website. Blackmarket, Via Panisperna 101, www.unpluggedinmonti.com.

NICK CAVE AND THE BAD SEEDS 8 Nov Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds return to Rome, four years after their last concert here, as part of their eight-week European tour. Best known for hits such as Red Right Hand and The Mercy Song, the Australian alternative rock band comes to Rome’s Palalottomatica to promote songs from their latest album Skeleton Tree. For tickets see Ticketone website, www.ticketone.it. Palalottomatica, Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi 1.

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whose sound incorporates elements of art rock, indie rock, electronica and dance-punk and whose live performances are normally augmented by light shows. Monk, Via Giuseppe Mirri 35, tel.

0664850987, www.monkroma.it.

Elle Mary & The Bad Men perform for Unplugged in Monti on 22 November.

JAMES BLUNT 12 Nov James Blunt returns to Rome with a concert at the Palalottomatica on 12 Nov. The English singer-songwriter is in Italy as part of The Afterlove world tour to promote his fifth album of the same name. Blunt is best known for his massive hit You’re Beautiful from his debut album Back to Bedlam which sold 11 million copies worldwide. For ticket details see TicketOne website, www.ticketone.it. Palalottomatica, Piazzale Pier Luigi Nervi 1.

THE DARKNESS 9 Nov The Darkness perform a concert at Rome’s Orion club. The British glam rock band came to prominence in 2003 with the release of their debut album, Permission to Land, which spawned a number of hit singles, notably I Believe in a Thing Called Love. Orion Club, Viale Kennedy 52, Ciampino, tel. 0689013645, www.orionliveclub.com.

THE FUREYS 7 Dec Tickets are on sale for a concert at Rome’s Scholars Lounge by veteran Irish folk band The Fureys. The group has been performing for almost four decades and is best known for ballads such as I will love you, When you were sweet 16, and The Green fields of France. For tickets contact Scholars Lounge, Via del Plebiscito 101b, tel. 0669202208, www.scholarsloungerome.com.

LAMB 10 Nov Electronic music duo from Manchester, comprising producer Andy Barlow and singer-songwriter Lou Rhodes. Known for hit singles Górecki and Gabriel, the group’s sound is influenced by trip hop, drum and bass and jazz. Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel.

06892982, www.auditorium.com.

PUBLIC SERVICE BROADCASTING 10 Nov Rome’s Monk Club presents a concert by this alternative London-based band

DANCE MILAN TEATRO ALLA SCALA LA DAME AUX CAMELIAS 17 Dec-13 Jan The new ballet season at La Scala begins with La Dame aux Camelias with choreography by John Neumeier and danced by the ever-popular stars Svetlana Za-

The Darkness perform at the Orion on 9 November.

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Popular stars Svetlana Zakaharova and Roberto Bolle will dance in La Dame aux Camelias at La Scala.

kaharova and Roberto Bolle. Teatro alla Scala, Piazza Filodrammatici 1, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 20 Sept-2 Dec This year the dance section of this avantgarde multi-disciplinary autumn festival continues with the cutting-edge of dance and choreography. After Sasha Waltz and Guests, Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, Dada Masilo, who opened the dance section of the festival in September, the programme continues in November with a quick succession of what are labelled as dancing days (2-4 Nov), eight choreographies in all, at La Pelanda MACRO Testaccio. They are programmed to follow one another each evening so it is possible to take them all in – an exciting binge of modern dance from European choreographers and dance companies. Details of times and locations of the Romaeuropa Festival dance events are on the website, www.romaeuropa.net.

TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA DON CHISCIOTTE DELLA MANCIA 15-23 Nov This new production of an old favourite opens the 2017-2018 season. The new choreography is by Laurent Hilaire inspired by the Mikhail Baryshnikov version for the American Ballet Theatre. It is hoped that Baryshnikov will be in Rome during rehearsals. With dancers Iana Salenko (Berlin’s Staadtsoper and the Royal Ballet) alternating with Susanna Salvi (one of the up-and-coming dancers of the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma), Isaac Hernández (English National Ballet) alternating with Angelo Greco (San Francisco Ballet) and Alessio Rezza (a bright new star of Italian ballet at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma after a spell with Paris Opera). Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Gigli 1, www.operaroma.it.

Alessio Rezza, one of the promising dancers at Teatro dell’Opera, dances in Don Chisciotte.

TURIN FESTIVAL TORINODANZA 12 Sept-1 Dec The programme for this year’s Turin’s dance festival includes many of the founding names of contemporary dance and choreography – Angelin Preljocal, Jiri Kylian, Lucinda Childs, Nacho Duato, Emio Greco as well as two new works from the company Aterballetto. This is the last year for the festival’s artistic director, Gigi Cristoforetti, who has always placed considerable emphasis on links between the festival and the city. He will hand over next year to Anna Cremonini, the present artistic consultant. See website for details, www.torinodanzafestival.it.

FESTIVALS ROMA JAZZ FESTIVAL 5-30 Nov Under the theme Jazz is My Religion, Rome’s annual rendezvous with jazz returns with an impressive line-up of Italian and international acts. This year the Roma Jazz Festival celebrates its 41st anniversary with

Cuban jazz singer Daymé Arocena performs at Alcazar Live for the Roma Jazz Festival on 7 November.

a longer than usual concert programme at the Auditorium Parco della Musica and various other venues around town. Festival highlights include Chick Corea, Steve Gadd Sextet (5 Nov), Mulatu Astatke & Steps Ahead Band (12 Nov), A Tribute to Louis Armstrong (18 Nov), Omar Sosa & Seckou Keita Trio (23 Nov), and Cory Henry & The Funk Apostles (28 Nov). The programme also commemorates a series of significant dates in the history of jazz: the centenary since the release of the first jazz album and the birth of jazz greats Thelonious Monk, Ella Fitzgerald and Dizzy Gillespie, and the 50th anniversary since the passing of John Coltrane. For details see festival website.

Auditorium Parco della Musica, Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 06892982, www.romajazzfestival.it.

She She Pop for Romaeuropa Festival.

ROMAEUROPA FESTIVAL 20 Sept-2 Decv The multidisciplinary Romaeuropa Festival returns with a much-increased programme of contemporary dance, theatre, art, music and technology, under the title “Where are we now?” The 32nd edition of the prestigious arts festival takes place in 24 locations around Rome and features more than 300 artists from 32 nations. This year’s line-up includes big names such as Julien Gosselin, Dorothée Munyaneza, Jan Fabre, Sasha Waltz, Dada Masilo, Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui, Jeff Mills and Tony Allen.

November highlights include Dreams & Nightmares, a sensory journery by musician and performer Dimitri de Perrot at the Swiss Institute (17-20 Nov); Rule of Three by Belgian choreographer Jan Martens, a musical collaboration with American producer and drummer NAH whose compositions range from punk to hip-hop, at Teatro Vascello (22-23 Nov); and The ocean is closed by German music and performance collective She She Pop at Teatro Vascello (25-26 Nov). There are numerous children’s events built around dance, music, theatre and new circus, under the umbrella REF

American filmmaker David Lynch partakes in a public chat at the Rome Film Fest on 4 Nov.

ROME FILM FEST 26 Oct-5 Nov The 12th edition of the Rome Film Fest features screenings, master classes, tributes, retrospectives, panels and special events, with most of the action centred at the Auditorium Parco della Musica. This year’s crowd-pleasing programme features numerous Hollywood heavyweights as special guests while highlights among the films include Detroit directed by Kathryn Bigelow; I, Tonya by Craig Gillespie, Mudbound by Dee Rees; Logan Lucky by Steven Soderbergh; Stronger by David Gordon Green; The Only Living Boy in New York by Marc Webb; and Borg vs. McEnroe

by Janus Metz. American filmmaker David Lynch, whose career ranges from Mulholland Drive to Twin Peaks, will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award and meet the audience. Other leading cinema figures taking part in the Close Encounters section include Hollywood stars Jake Gyllenhaal (Brokeback Mountain) and Christoph Waltz (Django Unchained); Shakespearean actor Ian McKellen – known to many as Gandalf in the Lord of the Rings saga; Canadian director Xavier Dolan; and British composer Michael Nyman who created the soundtrack to The Piano. In addition the guest list includes British actress Vanessa Redgrave whose 50-year career on the stage and screen includes Blowup, Julia, and Driving Miss Daisy; and Nanni Moretti who retraces his career as director, actor and producer. The festival’s artistic director Antonio Monda, who was has just been confirmed in his role for a further three years, is credited with helping the event increase its ticket sales by 18 per cent in 2016.

The programme includes movies from 31 countries. For full details, in English, see website, www.romacinemafest.it.

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one contemporary work a year, usually a world premiere. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala. org.

Digital Life for Romaeuropa Festival. AES+F: still from Allegoria Sacra , third part of The Liminal Space Trilogy.

Kids, from 10-26 Nov. Children will also enjoy the eighth edition of the festival’s parallel futuristic section Digital Life, which examines the interaction between visual arts and technology, at Palazzo delle Esposizioni until 7 Jan. This year’s Digital Life features six installations, talks and performances as well as the KizArt platform for children and a selection of video works from Geneva’s Biennale de l’Image en Mouvement. See also Dance section. For programme details in English see Romaeuropa website, www.romaeuropa. net/en.

OPERA MILAN NABUCCO

BY VERDI 24 Oct-19 Nov Nello Santi conducts the Daniele Abbado staging of Verdi’s opera. Leo Nucci plays Nabucco with Martina Serafina and Anna Pirozzi singing the part of Abigaille.

Mikhail Petrenko makes his debut at La Scala as Zaccaria. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

TI VEDO, TI SENTO, MI PERDO

BY SALVATORE SCIARRINO 14-26 Nov To end the 2016-2017 season La Scala has commissioned this new opera by Salvatore Sciarrino together with Berlin’s Staadtsoper. The work by one of Italy’s foremost living composers is inspired by the life of the composer Alessandro Stradella (1639-1682). It is conducted by Maxime Pascal, one of Europe’s top young conductors, and is directed by Jürgen Flimm. La Scala has a policy of producing

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

ANDREA CHENIER

BY UMBERTO GIORDANO 10 Dec-7 Jan To open the 2017-2018 season and to mark the 50th anniversary of the death of Victor de Sabata, principal conductor at La Scala from 1929-1957, Riccardo Chailly conducts a new staging of Umberto Giordano’s opera Andrea Chenier, directed by Mario Martone. Yusif Eyvazov makes his debut at La Scala, in the part of Andrea Chenier, with his wife Anna Netrebko in the part of Maddalena di Coigny. The Azerbaijan tenor is on the up-and-up, appearing for the first time last year at the Los Angeles opera and the Met as well as making his debut at the Paris Opera, the Berlin Staatsoper and the Marinsky. He made his debut in Rome as Des Grieux in Puccini’s Manon Lascaut at the Teatro dell’Opera di Roma in 2014 along with Netrebko in the lead role, conducted by Riccardo Muti. Giordano’s opera, which was inspired by the French Revolution, was an outstanding success when it was first staged at La Scala in March 1896. Teatro alla Scala, Via Filodrammatici 2, www.teatroallascala.org.

ROME LA TRAVIATA

BY VERDI 29 Oct-4 Nov If you missed Sofia Coppolla’s sumptuous traditional production of La Traviata, sponsored by Valentino, last autumn here it is again, conducted by Stefano Ranzani and Carlo Donadio.

Two Italian sopranos take the part of Violetta, Maria Grazia Schiavo and Valentina Varriale (from the Teatro dell’Opera young artists’ programme).

Auturo Chacón-Cruz, a protégé of Placido Domingo, sings Alfredo Germont and Sebastian Catan Giorgio. There will also be a chance to hear Varriale next season in La Sonnambula (18 Feb-3 March 2018) and Le Nozze di Figaro (30 Oct-11 Nov 2018). Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio 1, www. operaroma.it/en.

THE DAMNATION OF FAUST

BY BERLIOZ 12-23 Dec The new season opens on 12 Dec with Daniele Gatti conducting Berlioz’s Damnation of Faust directed by Damiano Michieletto in a new joint production with Turin’s Teatro Regio and Palua de les Art Reina Sofia di Valencia. Teatro dell’Opera di Roma, Piazza Beniamino Giglio1, www.operaroma.it/en.

Salvatore Sciarrino has composed a new opera Ti Vedo, Ti Sento, Mi Perdo for La Scala.

OPERA NOTES BERGAMO DONIZETTI FESTIVAL 24 Nov-2 Dec The programme of the second Donizetti opera festival in Bergamo features an intruiging selection of his lesser known works. Pigmalione was dashed off in just a few days when the composer was only 19 but was never performed until 1960 when it was staged at the Teatro Donizetti in Bergamo. The Messa da Requiem for Donizetti’s fellow composer Vincenzo Bellini was also only performed after Donizetti’s death. Parts of it, especially the final Libera me, are considered a forerunner of Verdi’s Requiem. A highlight of the festival is the closing concert by tenor Juan Diego Flores singing arias from Donizetti and Rossini operas.

Al Teatro Sociale di Bergamo la seconda edizione del Festival Donizetti Opera. Si comincia con Il borgomastro di Saardam (24, 26 novembre e 2 dicembre) un titolo di rara esecuzione che Gaetano Donizetti presentò per la prima volta al Teatro del Fondo di Napoli nel 1827, l’attuale proposizione invece prevede l’edizione (revisionata sull’autografo) che fu rivista dall’autore per le recite alla Scala di Milano del 1828. Ha per protagonista lo zar Pietro il Grande, che si finge carpentiere nei cantieri navali di Saardam in Olanda. Sebbene scritta di fretta non si può non apprezzare la facilità e l’abilità del compositore nel profondervi una musica più che gradevole. Sarà cantata da protagonista da Giorgio Caoduro e negli altri ruoli che ruotano intorno a Pietro da Irina Dubrovskaya, Aya Wakizono, Juan Francisco Gatell, Andrea Concetti e Pietro Di Bianco. Dirigerà Roberto Rizzi Brignoli e la regia sarà del regista di cinema Davide Ferrario, al suo debutto nel mondo della lirica.

Cont. page 31

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ObicĂ Parlamento Via dei Prefetti 26a, Roma Ph. +39 06 6832630 parlamento@obica.com ObicĂ Campo dei Fiori Piazza Campo dei Fiori 16, Roma Ph. +39 06 68802366 campodeifiori@obica.com www.obica.com

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

Il 25 novembre e il 1 e il 3 dicembre vanno in scena insieme due brevi opere. Una è Pigmalione, la prima composizione “scenica” che Donizetti realizzò nel 1816, in soli quindici giorni, quando a Bologna era allievo di Padre Mattei, celebre maestro di contrappunto con il quale studiò anche Rossini.

Questa “scena lirica” in un atto è a due personaggi: lo scultore Pigmalione, innamorato della statua di Galatea che sta scolpendo, chiede alla dea Venere e ottiene di vedere animarsi l’oggetto del proprio desiderio. È stata rappresentata postuma al Teatro Donizetti di Bergamo il 13 ottobre 1960, adesso tornerà al Teatro Sociale per l’interpretazione del tenore Antonino Siragusa e del soprano Aya Wakizono. L’altra opera che va in scena con Pigmalione è Che originali! Una farsa data a Venezia nel 1798 con musica di Giovanni Simone Mayr, maestro di Donizetti dal 1806 al 1815 prima della partenza da Bergamo a Bologna per proseguire gli studi con Padre Mattei.

Specialisti della musica dell’Ottocento italiano gli interpreti, tra cui Bruno De Simone, Chiara Amarù, Angela Nisi, Leonardo Cortellazzi e Omar Montanari. Entrambe le opere saranno dirette da Gianluca Capuano e messe in scena da Roberto Catalano.

Nel 1835 Gaetano Donizetti compone di getto una Messa da Requiem per la morte di Vincenzo Bellini, che tuttavia restò privata del Sanctus, del Benedictus e dell’Agnus Dei. Anche questo lavoro fu eseguito postumo nella Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore a Bergamo il 28 aprile 1870. Donizetti lo concepisce con una musica austera ma gravida di dolore, che tuttavia alla fine lascia intravedere una luce di speranza e di felicità per una serena vita dopo la morte. Diretta da Corrado Rovaris la Messa da Requiem sarà eseguita il 29 novembre (giorno in cui ricorre la nascita di Gaetano Donizetti avvenuta 220 anni fa) nella chiesa dove fu data la prima volta.

La seconda edizione del Festival Donizetti Opera si chiuderà sempre al Teatro Sociale di Bergamo con un concerto del celebre tenore Juan Diego Flórez accompagnato al pianoforte da Vincenzo Scalera (4 dicembre) con liriche da camera e arie d’opera di Gioachino Rossini e di Gaetano Donizetti, di quest’ultimo in programma estratti da melodrammi noti (Lucia di Lammermoor, La Favorite e Roberto Devereux) e da altri poco conosciuti (Rita) www.donizettiorg.

Paolo Di Nicola

Marsha De Salvatore at Rome’s Comedy Club. Photo Violetta Canitano.

THEATRE TEATRI DI VETRO 10 Sept-12 Nov The 11th edition of this two-month contemporary arts festival features more than 40 performances of theatre, dance and music, distributed in nine different venues around Rome. Recognised as an open space for interesting theatrical trends, the 2017 programme incorporates new, multidisciplinary works in the fields of drama, dance, music and the performing arts.

November highlights include reRality, an investigation into humanity based on the daily commutes of Parisian train passengers (4 Nov); and Fields, featuring musical compositions played on improvised instruments made with discarded materials (11 Nov). For programme see website, www.teatridivetro.it.

TEATRO SISTINA 31 Oct-12 Nov An Italian adaptation of Neil Simon’s classic 1965 comedy The Odd Couple. Claudia Cardinale and Ottavia Fusco star as two mismatched roommates in this production by Pasquale Squitieri. Teatro Sistina, Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711, www. ilsistina.it.

TEATRO INDIA 11 Nov-10 Dec Teatro India hosts several productions during November. Highlights include Unwanted, starring Dorothée Munyaneza, for Romaeuropa Festival (11-12 Nov). Munyaneza, who combines theatre, music and poetry, tells the stories of women affected by the genocide in her native Rwanda, giving voice to the women “whose bodies have been the battlefield in men’s thirst for power and sexual violence.”

Il ritorno di Casanova (28 Nov-10 Dec) is described as a “real tragic comedy of modern consciousness”. This theatrical adaptation of Arthur Schnitzler’s 1918 novel stars Federico Tiezzi as an ageing

Casanova keen to retire from the erotic escapades of his younger days. However poor Casanova’s retirement plans are thrown into disarray upon the arrival of the young Marcolina. In Italian. Teatro India, Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman, tel.

0687752210, www.teatrodiroma.net.

Teatro India presents Unwanted, by Dorothée Munyaneza, for Romaeuropa Festival.

ROME’S COMEDY CLUB 24 Nov Rome’s Comedy Club continues its ninth season at its new venue: the Makai Surf and Tiki Bar in Ostiense/Piramide area.

The November edition of this monthly comedy evening – in English – comprises regulars Liz Knight, Mark Hannan, Jose Salgado and club founder Marsha De Salvatore. Rome’s Comedy Club holds its events every last Friday of the month, with an entrance of €15 which includes aperitivo, a beer or glass of wine and the show. Doors open 20.00, show starts 21.30. Bookings (by text only, no calls) via Whatsapp 339 / 7514140 or email: alessio.esposito@gmail.com. Makai Surf and Tiki bar, Via dei Magazzini Generali, 4/a/b/c.

ACADEMIES AMERICAN ACADEMY IN ROME 12 Oct-26 Nov Matera Imagined/Matera Immaginata: Photography and a Southern Italian Town. Exhibition highlighting how photography has framed modern perceptions of Matera, a city in the Basilicata November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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region noted for its millennia-old cave dwellings. The show charts Matera’s recent evolution from the ancient backwater made famous in Carlo Levi’s bestselling memoir Christ Stopped at Eboli to its designation as Europe’s Capital of Culture in 2019. Offering a new narrative about Matera’s ancient heritage, the exhibition features works by celebrated photographers such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Esther Bubley, Luigi Ghirri, Emmet Gowin, David Seymour and Carrie Mae Weems. American Academy in Rome, Via Angelo Masina 5, tel.

0658461, www.aarome.org.

BELGIAN ACADEMY 7 Sept-8 Nov The Belgian Academy of Rome presents an exhibition by father and son artists Antonio Máro e Rafael Máro Ramírez, originally from Peru but long-term residents of Belgium. The pair work in close collaboration, creating work inspired by preColumbian art and Peruvian culture. The exhibition can be visited Mon-Fri 15.0018.00. Academia Belgica, Via Omero 8, www.academiabelgica.it.

David Seymour. Basilicata. Matera. A troglodyte village. A peasant girl leading her family’s horse back from the fields to her cave home. Italy. 1948 © David Seymour/Magnum Photos.

CASA DI GOETHE 31 Oct-18 Jan Collezionare al Corso. The Casa di Goethe celebrates 20 years in Rome by showcasing some highlights of its 30-year-old art collection, including some recent acquisitions. The drawings, prints and sketchbooks on display contain works

by Goethe’s friends Johann Heinrich Wilhelm Tischbein, Friedrich Bury, Friedrich Preller the Elder, Philipp Hackert, Albert Christoph Dies and Christoph Heinrich Kniep. Casa di Goethe, Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412, www.casadigoethe.it.

FRENCH ACADEMY IN ROME 13 Oct-7 Jan The French Academy in Rome – Villa Medici presents Eternal Idol, an exhibition comprising paintings, drawings and prints by contemporary American artist Elizabeth Peyton and sculptures

by French artist Camille Claudel (1864– 1943), one of the greatest sculptors of

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Samuel Jeffery, Flora Klein and Kaspar Müller. Exhibition organisers say the show is designed to “stimulate links between artists who are perhaps still strangers in Berlin, inviting them instead to imagine themselves being together, for a period of time, in Rome.” Istituto Svizzero di Roma, Villa Maraini, Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 06420421, www.istitutosvizzero.it.

Elizabeth Peyton at the French Academy.

Portrait at the Opera (Elizabeth).

her time. The exhibition highlights both artists’ distinct approaches to portraiture, displayed alongside several works

by Auguste Rodin on the centenary of his death. Claudel was known for her powerful sculptures, created from materials ranging from plaster to marble to bronze, while Peyton is celebrated for her painted portraits of subjects as diverse as David Bowie, Napoleon and Queen Elizabeth II. Villa Medici, Viale Trinità dei Monti 1, tel. 066761305, www.villamedici.it/en.

GERMAN ACADEMY OF ROME 5 Oct-24 Nov Rome’s German Academy at Villa Massimo stages an exhibition containing images by photographers and contemporaries Lotte Jacobi (1896-1990) and Alfred Eisenstaedt (1898-1995). Both photographers were Jewish and left Germany for the US in 1935. Their work on display, mainly from the 1930s to the 1950s, includes internationally recognised images. This exhibition is the fourth in a series of shows illustrating the evolution of German photography from the 1920s to today. German Academy, Villa Massimo, Largo di Villa Massimo 1-2, tel. 0644259340, www. villamassimo.de.

JAPANESE CULTURAL INSTITUTE 3 Oct-30 Nov The Japanese Cultural Institute presents Cinecomedy, a programme of seven recent Japanese films, all of which have a humourous theme. Each movie is screened in its original Japanese version, with subtitles in Italian and in some cases also in English.

Free entry until all seats are taken, and no need to reserve. For programme details see website. Istituto Giapponese di Cultura, Via Antonio Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754, www. jfroma.it.

SWISS INSTITUTE OF ROME 20 Oct-20 Jan The Swiss Institute of Rome presents From Berlin with Love, an exhibition featuring the work of ten Swiss artists living in the German capital: Tina Braegger, Emilie Ding, Edgars Gluhovs, Swetlana Heger, Charlotte Herzig, Andreas Hochuli, David Hominal,

German Academy of Rome. V-J Day in Times Square, New York City, 1945 by Alfred Eisenstaedt, © The LIFE Picture Collection_ Getty Images.

CHILDREN EXPLORA CHILDREN’S MUSEUM From 21 Oct The Explora children’s museum presents Economiamo, a new playful journey highlighting economics for children over six.

Earning and saving, donating and investing, economics has never been such fun! TuesSun 10.00, 12.00, 15.00 and 17.00. Explora, Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www. mdbr.it.

ARTandSEEK 12-26 Nov ARTandSEEK organises English-language cultural workshops and visits to museums and exhibitions for children in Rome.

ARTandSEEK plans two English-language workshops, Fantastic creatures: the circus, as part of the Kids section of the ongoing Romaeuropa Festival (see page 30), on 12 and 19 November. Also, on the weekend of 25-26 Nov there are children’s activities centred around the Hokusai exhibition at the Ara Pacis, on 25 Nov in Italian for English learners, and in English on 26 Nov, at 10.30 both days. For details see website, www. artandseekforkids.com. Children who are ARTandSEEK members pay €10, nonmembers pay additional €5 for membership. For event details tel. 331 / 5524440, email artandseekforkids@gmail.com.

A world class education in the heart of Rome St. Stephen’s International Day & Boarding School

www.sssrome.it

#4 St. Stephen’s School Rome Via Aventina 3, 00153 Rome, Italy tel: +39 065750605 / email: ststephens@sssrome.it

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Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and the New England Association of Schools & Colleges

THIS PAGE IS OPEN TO YOUNG WRITERS AND ARTISTS

WANTED IN ROME Junior

Grade 3L students at Ambrit International School have been studying various literary devices and styles to make their writing more expressive.

The students are aged 8 or 9 and their teacher is Miss Anne-Marie Loguercio.

My Apple I’m crunching.

I’m munching.

I’m eating an apple.

I’m crunching.

I’m munching.

I’m crunching once more.

But whoops! Oh no.

I’ve gotten to the core.

PINK PINK is a pig munching PINK tastes like delicious strawberries PINK smells like roses PINK sounds like a piano playing jazz PINK feels like fluffy cotton candy PINK looks like awesome shoes PINK makes me happy and excited PINK is a beautiful butterfly

By Hannah Herzman

By Viola Heinemann

Mushrooms mushrooms big, horrible smelling, disliking, rotting life is disgusting with mushrooms evil

By Gianmarco Rossi Red Red is precious stones Red tastes like roasted beef Red smells like smoke Red looks like blood Red sounds like war Red makes me feel like facing monsters

By Alexander Comerci

Cheese and Ham Toastie cheese and ham toastie warm, delicious devouring, eating, toasting completely perfect Lunch

By Ze Hassid

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

Beijing Beijing lovely, warm dancing, laughing, working my hometown China

Red Red is the eternal city Red tastes like sweet tomatoes Red smells like delicious strawberries Rest looks like war Red sounds like loud rock music Red makes me feel violent Red is blood Red is the best colour

By Adriano Polito

By Yinying Xu I am…

I am as fast as a cheetah I am as slow as a snail I am as small as a germ I am as big as an elephant I am as angry as a shark I am as happy as a puppy I am as scared as a lizard I am as brave as a hippopotamus I am as ugly as an alien I am as cute as a kitten I am as not perfect as Horrid Henry I am as perfect as Perfect Peter

By Giulio Pratesi Urquhart

Ninja Tongue Twister Ginger ninja ate a ninja, then he met a giant ninja. When ginger ninja ate the giant ninja, ginger ninja became giant ginger ninja. Then giant ginger ninja ate another ninga and giant ginger ninja popped. Giant ginger ninja went back to being ginger ninja.

By Tommaso Harris Dreams I keep my dreams in my head, but if I awake they’re all dead.

Once I dreamed of the number eleven, now that dream is up in heaven.

I dreamt of the same thing but the number seven, now that seven is dead in heaven.

By Abyssinia Thompson

Red Red is the fire of the barbeque Red is a gigantic sun Red is a subnurnt man Red tastes like a hot dog Red tastes like strawberry gelato Red smells like the delicious smells of sweets Red smells sweet like candies Red sounds hyper like Usain Bolt Red sounds like when my mom is angry Red sounds as exciting as a soccer match Red looks like Rome Red looks like Manchester United Red looks like Francesco Totti Red feels hot Red feels happy Red feels soft

By Thomas Hayashi

Marbles Marbles, marbles, everywhere Tripping me And making me slip These little balls are magic, amazing and cool So don’t judge them though they may be small.

By Martha McGuire

Green Green is the colour of peace Green tastes like nature Green smells like leaves Green looks like the earth Green sounds like liberty Green makes me feel invincible

Traveling traveling amazing, quiet running, sleeping, watching flying through the sky airport

By Lulu Al-Mohatresh

Ulcer ulcer painful, yucky hurting, swelling, burning sometimes I want to eat but I can’t hate

Animals are loud Living free and in the wild Smart

By Charlotte Grant Logan

Red Red is roses Red tastes like strawberries Red smells like fire Red looks like the sun Red sounds like the end of the world Red makes me feel like I’m in hell

By Claudio Mozzetti

By Sofia Pagano Ambrit International School, Via Filippo Tajani 50, www.ambrit-rome.com.

Fox I had a little fox and her name was Little Ox, I know she loved her bone like a farmer with his stone.

By Flaminia Danese

Soccer my favourite sport incredible, fun running, scoring, kicking sportsmanship is important soccer

By Edoardo Presta

Animals Amazing creature Nice to us Interesting Menacing

WANTED IN ROME JUNIOR For young writers and artists Wanted in Rome is accepting creative contributions from students in all international schools in Rome. Articles on topics related to either the student’s life in Rome or their school projects can be submitted by their class teachers.

The work should be no more than 1,000 words and all contributions should contain the name, age and school of the student. We also accept illustrations. Any class teachers who would like to propose a project please contact editorial@wantedinrome.com.

By Tiago Avella

Leaf A leaf is lined with lots of life.

It falls like a feather as gentle as the letter g.

By Ruby Giuliani November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

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PARIOLI NICE ATTICO. Parioli, close to Via Bertoloni, delightful penthouse perfectly and finely restored, empty, entrance, living room with fireplace, two bedrooms, a large bathroom with tub, furnished kitchen, serviced veranda, terrace, autonomous heating €2.000. fidia@ fidiaimmobiliare.it.

Free Classified Advertisements All classified advertisements in the free categories must be submitted via our website at www.wantedinrome.com. Space permitting free classified advertisements placed on our website will be downloaded and published in the magazine, but only if they include contact details. Jobs Wanted classifieds are no longer accepted in our office but must be placed directly on our website www.wantedinrome.com

TRASTEVERE. Independent in a private courtyard. Living room, kitchenette, bedroom, bathroom with shower, completely furnished and provided with linen. Close to all public transport and shops.

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PROPERTY FOR SALE OUT OF TOWN

Apartment in Borgo 10 mins from Todi. 100 sqm, 12 sqm loggia, 2 balconies and cellar. Large living room with fire-place, 2 bedrooms, small laundry. Full size

LOVELY APARTMENT IN S. LORENZO. Centre, S. Lorenzo, Via degli Umbri, lovely newly renovated apartment, beautiful vaulted ceilings with bricks, fully furnished, entrance, living room with open kitchen, one bedroom, bathroom with shower, storage / laundry. €950 Fidia real estate 0639723416.

SMALL FURNISHED APARTMENT IN TESTACCIO. Testaccio. Small furnished apartment, 39 sqm, fourth floor, air con. €700 per month plus bills and condominio.

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VIA MERULANA - S. MARIA MAGGIORE. One single room to rent for 1 person. Shared bathroom, kitchen and washing machine. Metro A & B. Tel. 338 / 7911289, 335 / 6803908. romachm@gmail.com.

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November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

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swimming pool in condominium, parking area, caretaker 24 hrs.

Beautiful views, fully furnished and equipped. 1st class material.

Perugia airport 20 mins away.

Contact jacquelinescholes@ hotmail.it, tel. 329 / 1319044.

JOBS VACANT

TOUR OPERATOR IS LOOKING. Tour operator is looking for outgoing English-speaking people to give info and assistance to tourists in the Colosseum area.

Working time from 09.00-14.00.

Contact mackhugs@gmail.com.

ESTABLISHED ENGLISH SCHOOL SEEKING. Established English School seeking qualified English mother-tongue teachers for children aged 3-12. Must have valid working documents.

Please send your CV to aurelia@ angloamericankids.it.

LESSONS

ITALIAN LESSONS OR CONVERSATION. Qualified and experienced teacher for Italian lessons and conversations (one to one, group, skype). Emma. livingitalialanguage@gmail.com, www.livingitalianlanguage.com.

POETRY

WHAT A STRANGE SUMMER. The Ramblas in Barcelona, the violence of carabeneers in Florence, the rape in Rimini. Questi se chiamano crimini. sernicolimarco@ gmail.com.

ELECTORAL REFORM. We call it inciucio between Renzi e Berlusconi. No needs a medium to say che nun serve sto Rosatellum. sernicolimarco@gmail.com.

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

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analysis. Practical, theoretical and strategic expertise will be provided within a challenging environment in order for students to succeed within this dynamic field. After successful completion of the programme, students will be prepared for employment opportunities in areas such as: organization of fashion & celebrity events, fashion shows, film awards, road shows, corporate events & seminars, conventions, exhibitions and trade fairs, art galleries, museums, event agencies, social and charity events, NGO events, wedding celebrations, concerts & festivals, product launches, public relation agencies and the hotel & tourism industry, among many others.

Internship Programme: Upon

successful completion of the programme participants may opt to take a 3-months internship fitted to their profile and career objectives. An assessment with the ESE Placement Officer will determine their eligibility for a placement. Intake Dates: 8 January 2018 Courses Duration: 3-month in class course + minimum 3-month internship (optional) 12 in-class hours per week (Monday-Friday) Language of Instruction: English. Please do not hesitate to contact our centre for further details: ese.roma@ uniese.it +390648906653, www. uniese.it, www.europeanschool ofeconomics.com.

ESE SHORT COURSE EVENTS MANAGEMENT_INTAKE JANUARY 2018. Dreaming about being a professional in the Events Management field? The Professional Programme in Events Management at the European School of Economics aims to equip students with essential knowledge and skills needed to excel within each stage of the event management process.

The course covers such topics as conceptualisation, planning, marketing, budget forecasting, event execution and post-event

November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

43

M A RY M O U N T

I N T E R N AT I O N A L S C H O O L R O M E Founded in 1946

A Tradition of Excellence One of the best international schools in Europe, Marymount Rome is a private, Catholic institution and the oldest international school in Italy.

Our strong International Baccalaureate Program complements a quality English-language international and American curriculum offering students the possibility to attend high-ranking universities around the world.

Committed to providing individual care and attention, students in Early Childhood through Grade 12 enjoy enrichment programs and access to a FabLab in addition to state-of-the-art facilities located on the 40-acre campus of protected parkland just 20 minutes from Rome's center.

Via di Villa Lauchli 180 - 00191 Rome, Italy +39 06.3629101 - marymount@marymountrome.com

www.marymountrome.org

PART OF THE GLOBAL NETWORK OF MARYMOUNT SCHOOLS London • New York • Paris • Los Angeles

FESTA DEL CINEMA DI ROMA 26 Ottobre 5 Novembre

2017

12 Edizione

“Audrey Hepburn TM -Trademark, © 2012 and Likeness - Property of Sean Hepburn Ferrer and Luca Dotti, ALL RIGHTS RESERVED” © David Seymour/Magnum/Contrasto

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NUMBERS ASSOCIATIONS American International Club of Rome tel. 0645447625, www.aicrome.org American Women’s Association of Rome tel. 064825268, www.awar.org Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com Association of Malaysians in Italy tel. 389 / 1162161, malaysiansinitaly@ gmail.com Canadian Club of Rome canadarome@gmail.com Circolo di Cultura Mario Mieli Gay and lesbian international contact group, tel. 065413985, fax 065413971 Commonwealth Club of Rome ccrome08@gmail.com International Women’s Club of Rome tel. 0633267490. www.pwarome.org Irish Club of Rome irishclubofrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.org Luncheon Club of Rome tel. 333 / 8466820 Patrons of the Arts in the Vatican Museums tel. 0669881814, www.vatican-patrons.org Professional Women’s Association www.pwarome.org United Nations Women’s Guild tel. 0657053628, unwg@fao.org, www.unwgrome.multiply.com Welcome Neighbor tel. 347 / 9313040, dearprome@tele2.it, www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.com

Bibliothèque Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France (French) Largo Toniolo 20-22, tel. 066802637, www.saintlouisdefrance.it La Librairie Française de Rome La Procure (French) Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598, www.librairiefrancaiserome.com Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V. E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878, www.lafeltrinelli.it Libreria Quattro Fontane (international) Via delle Quattro Fontane 20/a, tel. 064814484, Libreria Spagnola Sorgente (Spanish) Piazza Navona 90, tel. 0668806950, www.libreriaspagnola.it Open Door Bookshop (second hand books – English, French, German, Italian) Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478, www.books-in-italy.com St Patrick’s English-Language Library Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642014554 Opening times: Sun 10.00-12.30, Tues 10.00-14.00, Wed 15.00-18.00, Thurs 11.00-15.30

The following cinemas show films in English or original language when available – see Wanted in Rome website for details.

Casa del Cinema Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, Villa Borghese, tel. 06423601, www.casadelcinema.it Cinema dei Piccoli Viale della Pineta 15, Villa Borghese, tel. 068553485 Cinema Doria Via Andrea Doria 52, tel. 0639721446.

Farnese Persol Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395 Filmstudio Via degli Orti d’Alibert 1/c, tel.

334 / 1780632, www.filmstudioroma.com Greenwich Via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825 Intrastevere Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230 Lux Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361 Multisala Barberini Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361 Nuovo Olimpia Via in Lucina 16/g, tel. 066861068 Nuovo Sacher Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116 Odeon Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

BOOKS

CHIAMAROMA

The following bookshops and libraries have books in English and other languages as specified.

24-hour, multilingual information line for services in Rome, run by the city council, tel. 060606

Almost Corner Bookshop Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942 Anglo American Bookshop Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222

CINEMAS

• Ambulance tel. 118 • Carabinieri tel. 112 • Electricity and water faults (Acea) tel. 800130336 • Fire brigade tel. 115 • Gas leaks (Italgas-Eni) tel.

800900999 • Police tel. 113 • Rubbish (Ama) tel. 8008670355 November 2017 | Wanted in Rome

49

RELIGIOUS All Saints’ Anglican Church Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881, Sunday service 08.30 and 10.30 Anglican Centre Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302, www.anglicancentreinrome.com Beth Hillel (Jewish Progressive Community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org Bible Baptist Church Via di Castel di Leva 326, tel. 334 / 2934593, www.bbcroma.org, Sunday 11.00 Christian Science Services Via Stresa 41, tel. 063014425 Church of All Nations Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464 Church of Sweden Via A. Beroloni 1/e, tel. 068080474, Sunday service 11.15 (Swedish) Footsteps Inter-Denominational Christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621, 333 / 2284093, North Rome, tel. 0630894371, akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it International Central Gospel Church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695 International Christian Fellowship Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266, Sunday service 11.00 Jewish Community Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061 Lay Centre at Foyer Unitas Largo della Sanità Militare 60, tel. 067726761 Lutheran Church Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519, Sunday service 10.00 (German) Ponte S. Angelo Methodist Church Piazza Ponte S. Angelo, tel. 066868314, Sunday service 10.30 Pontifical Irish College (Roman Catholic) Via dei Santi Quattro 1, tel. 06772631. Sunday service 10.00 Rome Baptist Church Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35,

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Wanted in Rome | November 2017

tel. 066876652, 066876211, Sunday service 10.30, 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) Rome Buddhist Centre Vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091 Rome International Church Via Cassia km 16, www.romeinternational.org Rome Mosque (Centro Islamico) Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167, 068082258 St Andrew’s Presbyterian Church Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627, Sunday service 11.00 St Francis Xavier del Caravita (Roman Catholic), Via del Caravita 7, www. caravita.org, Sunday service 11.00 St Isidore’s College (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359, Sunday service 10.00 St Patrick’s Church (Roman Catholic) Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642014554, Saturday service 18.00. Sunday service 09.00 and 10.30 St Paul’s within-the-Walls (Anglican Episcopal) Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339, Sunday service 08.30,10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) St Silvestro Church (Roman Catholic) Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 066977121, Sunday service 10.00 and 17.30 Venerable English College (Roman Catholic), Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546, Sunday service 10.00 SUPPORT GROUPS Alcoholics Anonymous tel. 064742913, www.aarome.info Archè (HIV+ children and their families) tel. 0677250350, www.arche.it Associazione Centro Astalli (Jesuit refugee centre) Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 0669700306 Associazione Ryder Italia (Support for cancer patients and their families) tel. 065349622/0658204580, www.ryderitalia.it Astra (Anti-stalking risk assessment) tel. 066535499, www.differenzadonna.it Caritas soup kitchen

(Mensa Giovanni Paolo II) Via delle Sette Sale 30, tel. 0647821098, 11.00-13.30 daily Caritas foreigners’ support centre Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 Caritas hostel Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 Caritas legal assistance Piazza S. Giovanni in Laterano 6/a, tel.

0669886369 Celebrate Recovery Christian group tel. 338 / 1675680 Comunità di S. Egidio Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 Comunità di S. Egidio soup kitchen Via Dandolo 10, tel 065894327, 17.00-19.30 Wed, Fri, Sat Information line for the disabled tel. 800271027 Joel Nafuma Refugee Centre St Paul’s within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Mason Perkins Deafness Fund (Support for deaf and deaf-blind children), tel. 0644234511, masonperkins@gmail.com, www.mpds.it Overeaters Anonymous tel. 064743772 Salvation Army (Esercito della Salvezza) Centro Sociale di Roma “Virgilio Paglieri”, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351 Support for elderly victims of crime (Italian only) Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104 The Samaritans Onlus (Confidential telephone helpline for the distressed) tel. 800860022 TRANSPORT • Atac (Rome bus, metro and tram) tel. 800431784, www.atac.roma.it • Ciampino airport tel. 06794941, www.adr.it • Fiumicino airport tel. 0665951, www.adr.it • Taxi tel. 060609 – 065551 – 063570 – 068822 – 064157 – 066645 – 064994 • Traffic info tel. 1518 • Trenitalia (national railways) tel.

892021, www.trenitalia.it

LUDWIG MINKUS

Don Chisciotte CONDUCTOR DAVID GARFORTH

CHOREOGRAPHY LAURENT HILAIRE INSPIRED BY ORIGINAL VERSION FOR THE AMERICAN BALLET THEATRE BY MIKHAIL BARYSHNIKOV AFTER MARIUS PETIPA AND ALEXANDER GORSKY

TEATRO COSTANZI FIRST PERFORMANCE WED

15 NOVEMBER

7.00 PM

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THE REPLICAS

ORCHESTRA, PRINCIPAL DANCERS, SOLOISTS AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA NEW PRODUCTION

16 NOVEMBER

8.00 PM

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FRI

17

8.00 PM

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SAT

18

3.00 PM 8.00 PM

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SUN

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4.30 PM

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TUE

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8.00 PM

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WED

22

8.00 PM

THU

23

8.00 PM

Ettore Festa, HaunagDesign - Illustration by Gianluigi Toccafondo

THU

operaroma.it

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