The Expat Guide to Rome 2018

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Direttore Responsabile: Marco Venturini Executive editor: Andy Devane Editrice Società della Rotonda srl, Via delle Coppelle 9, 00186 Rome Supplemento al numero 5 Wanted in Rome di Maggio 2018 Registrazione in tribunale 118 del 30/3/2009, già inscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985 Stampa: Stampati snc G Finito di Stampare: April 2018 Graphics: Dali Studio srl www.dalistudio.com Contacts: editorial@wantedinrome.com advertising@wantedinrome.com Website: www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedineurope.com www.wantedinafrica.com www.wantedinmilan.com © Società della Rotonda srl All rights reserved

Wanted in Rome 3

CONT Editorials 6. INTERVIEW WITH CARLO FUORTES 11. rome’s PILGRIM routes 15. exploring the rome of books

MISCELLANY 30. A DAY OUT 71. ROME SECRETS 78. activities for children 85. AREAS 159. useful numbers

19. health care: service or sufferance?

24. RENTING RESIDENTIAL PROPERTIES IN ITALY

Direttore Responsabile: Marco Venturini Executive editor: Andy Devane Editrice Società della Rotonda srl, Via delle Coppelle 9, 00186 Rome Supplemento al numero 5 Wanted in Rome di Maggio 2018 Registrazione in tribunale 118 del 30/3/2009, già inscritta con il numero 131 del 6/3/1985 Stampa: Graffietti Stampati snc Finito di Stampare: Maggio 2018 Graphics: Dali Studio srl www.dalistudio.com Contacts: editorial@wantedinrome.com advertising@wantedinrome.com Website: www.wantedinrome.com www.wantedineurope.com www.wantedinafrica.com www.wantedinmilan.com © Società della Rotonda srl All rights reserved

ENTS 30 A DAY OUT

6

71

Interview with carlo fuortes

ROME SECRETS

78

ACTIVITIES FOR CHILDREN

Wanted in Rome 5

Opera

INTERVIEW WITH CARLO FUORTES Rome’s opera theatre, which has always played second best to Milan’s more famous La Scala, is turning into one the city’s lively new attractions under the guidance of its sovrintendente Carlo Fuortes.

Mary Wilsey Wanted in Rome. Things have changed considerably since you became the sovrintendente of Teatro dell’Opera di Roma three years ago. Could you tell us what achievement makes you most proud?

Carlo Fuortes. What pleases me most is the new public we have managed to attract. Our research shows that 40 per cent of our audiences have been with us for less than two years. Thirty per cent are now under 35 years old, which is the same percentage as those over 60.

Wanted in Rome. How do you manage to attract both an older and a younger audience?

Carlo Fuortes. With a certain amount of intelligent programming – and of course it is not true that the older generation is necessarily more conservative than the younger in its taste. For instance the production of Così fan tutte in January 2017, which was a very contemporary interpretation of Mozart’s opera, was a success with all ages. We have been able

Carlo Fourtes.

to attract new and younger audiences with new and exciting programming.

Wanted in Rome. There has been a resurgence of interest in opera worldwide in the last ten to 15 years.

Could you explain why you think this is?

Opera Carlo Fuortes. It is partly because there is so much more that can be done with opera these days. There is a whole new multimedia language that was not available before. This includes the use of video and digital media which makes for completely different productions. The young are attracted by a number of things but in particular by the multimedia aspects of the opera. There’s so much variety now.

In addition the young appreciate the sheer physicality of opera. In this age of internet and virtual media they like live theatre and the direct impact with the people on stage. It is also important to have new programming, a variety of works and directors of international standing.

Carlo Fuortes. It was certainly a blow for the theatre, but there is no point in looking backwards. We have new conductors and we are especially happy to have Daniele Gatti conducting the opening operas of each season for the next three years exclusively for Teatro dell’Opera. The debut of Speranza Scappucci conducting Così fan tutte was also a special occasion. She was born in Rome and she is already well known for her work abroad, but this was her first time conducting in her home town.

Wanted in Rome. What role does the opera house play within the city; for instance how would you compare it with the role of La Scala in Milan?

Carlo Fuortes. The situation is very different in the two cities for many reasons. In Rome the opera is just one of many cultural resources. Ithas a more difficult role than La Scala Milan because there are so many more attractions in Rome to compete with the opera. I spent 13 years at the Auditorium Parco della Musica, for instance, and I always thought that the role of Teatro dell’Opera was underrated and that there was much more that it could do. We are proving that now because in the last two years we have managed to increase ticket sales from around €7.5 million a year to just under €12 million. I should also point out that this increase has been during a difficult economic moment.

Wanted in Rome. Once conductors and singers were the stars of the opera. Now it seems that the directors are becoming more and more important. Would you comment on this?

Carlo Fuortes. Yes – directors have become increasingly important. Now they are almost as important as the music itself. Once one went to the opera for the singers but now the direction is almost as important.

Wanted in Rome. Have the singers been able to rise to this change?

Carlo Fuortes. Oh yes, absolutely They’re particularly open to working with directors and with new ideas.

Wanted in Rome. How are the relations between the city and the Teatro dell’Opera?

Wanted in Rome. What did you feel about the sudden resignation of Riccardo Muti as musical director of Rome’s opera a few years ago?

Carlo

Wanted in Rome 7

Fuortes. I would say they

OPERA

BALLET

DECEMBER 12 - 23

NOVEMBER 15 - 23

LA dAmnation de FAust

Don Chisciotte

HECTOR BERLIOZ

LUDWIG MINKUS

DECEMBER 31 - JANUARY 7

JANUARY 21 - FEBRUARY 4

PËTR IL’IČ ČAJKOVSKIJ

i mAsnadieri

JANUARY 28 - FEBRUARY 3

The Nutcracker

GIUSEPPE VERDI

FEBRUARY 18 - MARCH 3

VINCENZO BELLINI

LA sonnambula FEBRUARY 24 - MARCH 4

Soirée Française MARCH 15 - 21

GIUSEPPE VERDI

LA traviata

Kylián, Inger, Forsythe

APRIL 5 - 15

MAY 25 - 31

Cavalleria rusticana

Manon

JULES MASSENET

PIETRO MASCAGNI

SEPTEMBER 15 - 23

PËTR IL’IČ ČAJKOVSKIJ

RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO

sleeping beauty

Pagliacci

Roma Opera aperta 2017-18 season ORCHESTRA, CHORUS, AND CORPS DE BALLET OF THE TEATRO DELL’OPERA DI ROMA

APRIL 7 - 17 NOVEMBER 15 - 18

GIACOMO PUCCINI

toscA MAY 8 - 15

BENJAMIN BRITTEN

Billy Budd JUNE 13 - 24

GIACOMO PUCCINI

La bohème OCTOBER 9 - 17

WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART

Die Zauberflöte OCTOBER 30 - NOVEMBER 11

WOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART

Le nozze di Figaro FOUNDERS

PRIVATE SHAREHOLDERS

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Opera

Teatro dell’Opera presented Lulu by Berg, directed by William Kentridge, in May 2016.

are very good. We have just had the confirmation of important financing from the city, €15 million for 2017, which is only slightly less than last year. Our relations with the mayor and the deputy mayor, who are president and vice president of the managing board, are very good.

to attract foreign audiences?

Carlo Fuortes. The production of the Valentino - sponsored La Traviata directed by Sofia Coppola last year was an enormous attraction and a success with our foreign audience. We now have surtitles in English, which is also a help, and of course internet is a invaluable way of boosting our international image. Coproductions with foreign opera companies, as well as internationally known directors, also promote our name abroad. We are working with opera houses in Amsterdam, Barcelona, London, New York and Paris. Sharing productions with prestigious foreign opera companies also helps to keep the costs down.

Wanted in Rome. How much do tourists contribute to sales?

Carlo Fuortes. Tourists make up about 15-20 per cent of the audience at Teatro Costanzi, the city’s opera house. At the Baths of Caracalla, where we hold the summer season, tourists account for about a half. Over the last two years they have increased at both locations by about 20 per cent.

Wanted in Rome. How do you manage

Wanted in Rome 9

Rome for pilgrims

ROME’S PILGRIM ROUTES Much of the layout of Renaissance Rome was dictated by the needs of pilgrims to reach St Peter’s from all parts of the city.

Arianna Farina The layout of Rome n the early 15th century was still determined by its mediaeval shape. It was only thanks to the urban planning policies of the great 15th-century popes that the city began to take on the Renaissance form that is still partly visible today.

There is a close relationship between the main thoroughfares of the Renaissance and the current street plan of Rome’s historic centre. Its very survival is an invitation to explore these streets which still retain their architectural styles, as well as the urban and social functions of that great season of Renaissance Rome, which still influences the daily life and the needs of today’s city.

Rome in 1688.

Borgo, traditionally a pilgrim destination because of the tomb of St Peter, was described in the late 15th century as a devastated and abandoned area. It is said that the very Romans “dared not go to the basilica for fear of being crushed by teetering buildings. Packs of ravenous wolves broke in close to the Vatican in winter.”

Repopulated, saved from degradation and finally connected to the rest of the city, in the first years of the 16th century this zone became a vital residential area of Rome with the creation of a street

It was in the second half of the 15th century that the appearance and concept of Rome changed, beginning with its main centres: Borgo on one side and the planned and new Renaissance quarter on the other. It marked the start of the urban planning which was to shape the historic city that we can recognise today.

Wanted in Rome 11

Rome for pilgrims system of great beauty which remained almost intact up to the the opening of Via della Conciliazione in 20th century, which distorted much of the original street layout.

The Renaissance quarter, particularly in the Ponte and Parione districts, appears today far more faithful to its 16th century splendour. Once the situation in Borgo had been improved, the citadel and its basilica had to be connected to the “historic” city. At that time there was only one bridge connecting this quarter to the other bank of the Tiber: the Ponte degli Angeli. Precisely because it was the only bridge, it played a role in the tragic event of the 1450 Jubilee, when many people were crushed by the crowds or drowned in the Tiber under the great throng of pilgrims and horses. Beyond the bridge, from the street called Canale del Ponte, began the city’s main thoroughfares, Via Peregrinorum, Via Papalis and Via Recta, along with the opening of the new Tor di Nona ordered by Sixtus IV and thus called Sistina di Ponte. These were veritable itineraries which, fanned out from the same point, crossing the Renaissance quarter and its districts: the vital centre of Rome, the city of bankers, arti-sans and merchants.

The expression “Via” had a much wider meaning in the 15th century than it does today: indicating routes made up of several streets or roads.

Thus we can see in today’s Via dei Banchi Vecchi, Via del Pellegrino and Via di Monserrato the outline of the Via

Peregrinorum, the name derived from the pilgrims who trod it. Via del Pellegrino was perhaps the most beautiful. It was lined by splendid palaces and hosted a large number of shops and workshops, especially those of goldsmiths, such that it was still called “Via degli Orefici” as was “Via Florida” up to the 15th century.

This route must have coincided partly with the Via Mercatoria, a particularly important route because it joined Campo dei Fiori with Ponte S. Angelo.

It stretched from today’s Via del Pellegrino to Via dei Giubbonari, a residential zone for foreign legations as well as a commerical area, and crossed Campo de’ Fiori, in those days a vital centre of the city thanks to its important market. As its name suggests, Via Mercatoria followed a a route through Rome’s commercial areas, as far as the districts of S. Angelo, Regola and Parione, whose streets invoke the ancient trades that were once located there: Via dei Leutari, Via dei Cappellari, Via dei Giubbonari, Via dei Chiavari or Via dei Baullari.

The outline of Via dei Banchi Nuovi and Via del Governo Vecchio corresponded to the Via Papalis, so named because it marked the traditional route taken by the pope during festivities and religious ceremonies. The road connected the Lateran to the Vatican, passing

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Wanted in Rome 13

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Rome for pilgrims embankments built along the Tiber after the floods of 1888.

Borgo and St Peter’s before Via della Conciliazione.

through the Canale di Ponte and then through Via del Governo Vecchio, Largo Argentina, the Campidoglio and the Colosseum. Popes did not always follow the same route, but – apart from a few deviations – they would always choose the mercantile streets for ceremonial and also representa-tive purposes. It was here that the market of Piazza Navona was born in 1477 under Sixtus IV, becoming the “third urban pole”.

The Via Recta corresponded to today’s Via dei Coronari, the first straight street in the city guaranteeing direct access to the Vatican for pilgrims. This was also the longest route, as it passed through the Ponte and Campo Marzio districts along Via delle Coppelle, Via del Collegio Capranico and Via di Colonna. The last stretch of the road as far as Via Panico was known as “imago Ponte” for one of Rome’s most important wayside shrines. This street was totally dedicated to crafts, as well as to pilgrimage and the spinoff market it produced. Thanks to the cocentration of sellers of wreaths and religious articles, it was a sales point for sacred wares, as well as being a main thoroughfare. There was also Via di Tordinona or Sistina di Ponte, which is now much narrower because of the

We should not forget the urban utopia of Via Giulia, the well-known architectural feat of Julius II and Bramante, giving pilgrims coming from Trastevere and heading for the Vatican a new and splendid route.

In spite of some demolition work and the opening of Corso Vittorio Emanuele, much of the street system and its original appearance are still visible today. This brief list shows how much of the original layout of the Rome of the popes – much of which still survives today – was dictated by the demands for access by pilgrims.

Rome’s richness is due also to its earlier beauty, but in this case it is not isolated in its ruins or on display in museums. There is instead a fusion of past and present, an continuing function and traffic system a close connection between the urban demands of two societies totally separated by the passage of time, which renders any one of these streets a witness to change, but also to continuity.

Knowing that the same streets were trodden by visitors and Romans centuries ago helps one integrate the ancient with contemporary city and gain a better understanding of the concepts at the origins of its creation. These streets represent far-off memories, ancient and present-day aspects, which make the journey toward St Peter even richer and more precious.

Culture and History

EXPLORING THE ROME OF BOOKS Angelica, Casanatense and Valicelliana.

Arianna Farina Libreria Angelica.

The city of Rome is a book of stone, monuments and ancient artefacts which make up and pass on the intriguing and complex chapters of an endless chronology. A thousand year history to browse with the many vectors of mnemonic restoration. But its museums, which along with the ancient monuments are probably the most visited tourist locations, are not the sole custodians of the heritage of a civilisation. Libraries, too, in the silence and splendour of their spaces hidden from outside view, preserve the history of peoples. These temples of knowledge and institutions with centuries of history should therefore not be ignored in any guide dedicated

to the city of Rome, the cradle not only of art but also of that erudite culture born in the humanistic atmosphere which, together with the invention of printing in the 15th century, led to the birth of a vigorous tradition of libraries and the founding of fascinating places dedicated to reading and the conservation of knowledge. Originally, libraries were simply collections rather than institutions dedicated to the education of the masses, and were also conceived as pure museums where books would be dis played together with ancient objects. In the late 16th century there was a division of the two spheres, and the patrimony of the libraries took on an identity of its own.

Wanted in Rome 15

Culture and History In this way, during the Renaissance, the dream ideal of the Royal Library of Alexandria was united with a new public and universal mission for the institution.

The Angelica Library, founded and dedicated by Angelo Rocca in the S. Agostino Convent in 1604, is remembered as Italy’s third public library, for it was intended for the use not only of the brothers but also of lay people, and the words of its founder, that it should be “for the public good, in particular for that of the poor and of the foreigners who find themselves in Rome without books and without money”, represent a seachange, a concept of the public good born in Germany’s Protestant reformation and imposed on Rome in the climate of Catholic renewal of the 16th century. The books and the readings became important instruments for the salvation of the human soul, and li-braries rapidly became a powerful means of education and redemption.

The public nature of the Angelica library is immedi-ately clear from the dedication at the door, inviting “all those who would care to enter”. Everyone has an equal right to intellectual progress, and everyone is addressed in this new concept of

the library as a cultural arbitrator for the masses. Despite its historical importance and precocious public role, and despite its location along the traditional tourist itineraries, it is often ignored by uninterested passers-by.

To see this splendid example of 16th century libraries, one needs only to pause in Piazza S. Agostino, perhaps after admiring Caravaggio’s Madonna dei Pellegrini, and enter at door No. 8 into the sanctity of the vision of a rich preserved patrimony of printed texts, many of them dedicated to St Augustine and his Order, arranged on antique wooden shelves. A collection which has been enlarged over the centuries by important bequests, and which owes its fascinating name to its founder, showing that libraries in those days were in some way also the biographies of interesting men of the times.

The Valcelliana Library, too, is connected with a famous personality of the 16th century: it was founded on an inherited stock of precious books bequeathed by one of the most influential figures of the Counter-Reformation, St Philip Neri. His Congregation of the Oratory, whose rules decreed that meals be accompanied by readings from religious texts, commissioned the creation of

Culture and History

Wanted in Rome 17

Culture and History

a suitable space to contain a library enjoying constant growth. The genius Francesco Borromini directed the work from 1637 to 1652, although his plan was partly modified by Camillo Arcucci when completing the arrangement of the library in 1667. In Piazza della Chiesa Nuova 8, on the second floor of the Oratory next to the church of S. Maria in Vallicella, this library, open to the public, preserves the memory not only of 17th-century architecture but also of the culture of the period between the Reformation and the Counter-Reformation, safeguarding in its splendid setting some 130,000 books, as well as manuscripts and antique etchings.

We find a third example of the passion for the collection of ancient material and of the biographical value of the institution in the Casanatense library, also numbered among the most beautiful and important libraries of Rome. In Via S. Ignazio 52, in the convent of the S. Maria sopra

Minerva church at a stone’s throw from the Pantheon, Cardinal Girolamo Casanate left his precious collection of theology, law and Roman history to the Domenican fathers in 1701 to found this library as a place of “public benefit”. In part of the basilica’s cloister, an area which has always been dedicated to isolation and study by the devout, the architect Antonio Maria Bodioni built a section destined to hold the 400,000 volumes, 6,000 manuscripts and 2,200 incunabola bequeathed by the cardinal to the library bearing his name.

Libraries are thus not merely dusty places of study but also the expression, perhaps among the least contaminated, of the social and cultural history of the city.

This belief itinerary among important his-torical libraries in the centre of Rome may be seen as an invitation to visit and examine a paper legacy which opens the doors to a collective memory made of histories and of the numberless experiences which give a name, a voice and a sense to the external fascination of the Eternal City.

Health

HEALTH CARE: SERVICE OR SUFFERANCE? A guide to the ins and outs of the Italian health system Studio legale Annino

In the world health organization’s last health care ranking in 2000, italy’s health care system was regarded as the second best in the world after france, and according to the cia world factbook 2004 italy has the 10th highest life expectancy, “thanks to its good healthcare”.

through the co ordination of local health agencies, Azienda Sanitaria Locale (ASL).

Although tourists have access to all emergency services it is advisable to take out travel insurance to cover any prolonged therapy or hospital stays due to any accidents and misfortunes. all foreigners have the right to claim for damages through an italian lawyer for any accidents they suffer while in italy.

Foreigners who are resident in italy with a valid residency permit (permesso di soggiorno) which is obtained at the local

Italy is host to many acclaimed medical professionals and supports a high level of medi-cal and research excellence. unfortunately, as is the case in many countries, spending on health care has been cut over the last couple of years resulting in decreased services, bottlenecks and increases in waiting time for visits to specialists and surgical operations, which often force people to turn to private medical care at their own expense.

The Servizio Sanitario Nazionale (SSN) or na tional health service was established in 1978 to provide italians and foreign residents with tax-funded health care provided by a mixed public / private system. the system is governed by the ministry of health on a national level but is administered on a regional basis

Wanted in Rome 19

Health region to region but is on average â‚Ź150 a year for a student and â‚Ź220 for an au-pair, payable on 1 January each year.

In order to register at your local ASL you require a copy of a valid residency permit (permesso di soggiorno), a residency certificate from the municipality (comune) in which you are resident or auto certification of where you are resident, an italian tax code (codice fiscale) or receipt that you have requested one. In the case of families you need the residency permit (permesso di soggiorno) for each dependent. police station (questura – polizia di stato) are required to register with their local ASL and have the same right as italians to national health care. Foreigners entering Italy on a study visa or a visa to carry out au-pair services, although they are not considered residents, may register with the national health system for the period of their stay, subject to the payment of a fee. the fee varies from

After registration you receive a medical card (tessera sanitaria) which allows you access to national medical services. (this card is also a legal confirmation of your tax code.) at the ASL you will be given a list of available local medical practitioners from which you are required to select a family doctor (medico di famiglia). For children up to six years of age you are allocated a paediatrician. after the age of six,

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Health Pregnant women and the chronically ill or disabled may register with their ASL for exemption from these payments. Any operations or hospital stays recommended by specialists are covered by the national health system.

In italy, dental check-ups and orthodontic services are not covered by the national health service and in almost all cases the costs are borne by the patient. Having outlined how the system is supposed to work it should be said that the national health system is more than adequate if you suffer from the occasional ‘flu, ache or pain.

children may remain with the same paediatrician until the age of 16 or opt to change over to the family doctor. Ff you are dissatisfied with your doctor you have the right to change doctors once a year. Although visits to your family doctor and paediatrician are free there are co-payments (pagamento ticket) for prescribed medicines. If the cost of the medication is less than €5 you pay €2.50 and if the cost exceeds €5 you pay €4. Obligatory vaccinations – namely diphtheria, tetanus, pertussis, polio virus, hepatitis B, haemophilus influenza type b, mumps, measles, rubella (german measles) – are free of charge and are administered by the staff of your local ASL. Specialist visits, scans, examinations and tests prescribed by family doctors are subject to co-payment (pagamento ticket) which, depending on the region and the nature of the visit, ranges between €36-€51.

However, people with an ongoing need for specialist care should be aware that the waiting period for specialist visits on the national health service can take months, and taking into consideration the price of co-payments (pagamento ticket) it is often more efficient to consult a private specialist. in which case you should consider taking out a reasonably priced international health insur-ance or, if allowed, remain on your home country’s national health scheme through which you may be reimbursed for medical services in Italy.

Legal affairs

RENTING RESIDENTIAL PROPERTIES IN ITALY Bonnie Rose-Zanni For many expats, looking for the perfect housing solution may be frustrating and disappointing unless they understand the laws and regulations. Here are some things to keep in mind when looking for a rental. In Italy, there are three types of leases: 1. A 4 year lease + 4 year extension at the same conditions; 2. An 18 month (max) lease; 3. A 3 year lease + 2 year extension at the same conditions.

Most landlords today opt for the 3+2 lease as it has reduced taxes on the rental income.

Residential rentals in Italy are regulated by law no. 431/98, and this must be written on the lease. The tenant (conduttore) has the right to break the lease by giving notice. Italian law stipulates a maximum of six months’ notice, but this should be negotiated. Currently it is common to agree on a three-month break clause. Diplomats can also ask for a diplomatic clause to be included in the lease specifying that they can request a reduced notice period, which is regulated by the specific embassy or organisation and also depends on the position held by the staff. It is usually two months but could also be as little as

one month. The landlord is not obliged to accept, but most do.

The landlord may not break the lease before the renewal period. And the landlord may only be allowed to renew the extension for specific reasons.

Therefore the tenant has little risk of being asked to leave, unless he or she is breaking the conditions described in the lease itself.

The tenant will be asked if the lease will be under the tenant’s name or a company name. This is because the landlord (locatore) will have to pay more taxes on the revenue if the lease is in a company name. The difference between individual and company on a 3+2 lease is often 30 per cent, making it difficult to find landlords willing to rent to a company.

If both parties are individuals the landlord can opt to apply the cedolare secca. This is a flat tax on the revenue generated from the rent and is applicable on all types of leases. Under the cedolare secca option, the lease is not subject to registration fees or government, and the monthly rent must stay the same for the duration of the lease.

A day out

Zanni Immobiliare, a husband-wife (Italian-American) real estate team, is specialized in housing solutions for expats relocating to Rome, Italy. Marco Zanni View of Ariccia withhas Palazzo Chigi and monumental bridge been in sales over the past 30 years, now specialized in real estate, while Bonni Rose-Zanni is a relocation specialist, from Alexandria, Virginia and has been living and working in Rome for over 25 years. She personally understands relocating to a new country, having dealt with the challenge in finding suitable housing solutions while living abroad herself.

ariccia: art city of the castelli We hope to make your Rome housing search easier and hassle-free.

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Legal affairs If, instead, one of the parties is a company and the landlord cannot opt for the cedolare secca, or if the landlord decides not to opt for it for fiscal reasons, there is a yearly registration fee to be paid. This is two per cent of the annual rent, to be divided equally between the landlord and the tenant.

There are also government stamps that must be applied only on the initial registration, which the tenant must pay for entirely. It is usually one €16 stamp for every lease registered. The landlord has the right to increase the rent each year according to the cost of living index (ISTAT). It is usually not more than two per cent maximum. In this case, if the tenant breaks the lease early, he or she will have to sustain a fee of €67 to the registrar’s office.

has to get a quote for the repair and then shares it with the tenant. This is usually done within a week.

In Italy the tenant is responsible for ordinary maintenance and for the items/appliances in the property. This means that if, for instance, the tenant has plumbing issues because they have not been cleaning the filters in the taps (Rome’s water is high in calcium deposits), he or she will be responsible for the cost of the repair.

The tenant is also responsible for ordinary maintenance checks to the gas boilers every year. The landlord is responsible for any extraordinary maintenance. For instance, if the boiler breaks, the landlord has to replace it at his cost. Sometimes there is a fine line to understanding whose responsibility it is to fix household appliances. In the USA and Canada, as well as in some other countries, the landlord pays for any and all repairs. This is not the case in Italy.

The landlord will take care of paying it, but will then seek reimbursment from the tenant. It is customary for the tenant to leave a two-month security deposit with the landlord on the signing of the lease, which will be returned at the end provided no damage has been done to the property and all bills have been paid. If the property is completely furnished, the landlord may ask for a three-month deposit.

If renting a semi-furnished flat, the tenant may be expected to buy electrical fixtures too. Most landlords who are used to dealing with expats will put electrical fixtures in each room, but be aware that this may not be the case for every property.

The lease expressly states that the tenant is not to use the security deposit against the last few months of rent.

Such an arrangement can be made if no damage is present and all bills and rent have been paid, but only if the landlord agrees. Otherwise, a check is done at the end of the lease to see if there has been any damage. The law does not specify how quickly the landlord has to return the deposit, but if there is no damage it usually happens within a day or so.

When damage is involved, the landlord

The tenant has to pay the condominium fee or homeowners fee. This is called le spese di condominio. The landlord should be able to provide the tenant with the previous year’s balance in order to verify the amount to be paid. The fee goes toward paying the condominium administrator, the cleaning and lighting of the common areas, the ordinary maintenance of the lift, the gardening fees and the porter’s salary. If there is

Wanted in Rome 27

Legal affairs no porter and no lift in the building, the amount should be minimal.

The utility contracts should be put in the tenant’s name. The gas and electricity meter readings are taken at the beginning and end of occupancy.

Some utility companies require the lease to be registered before they will put the contract into a tenant’s name.

The tenant can choose which internet/ telephone company to use. Fiber-optic connections are available in major Italian towns but not everywhere.

Before signing the lease the tenant should ask if the flat has been freshly painted and if the landlord expects it to be repainted before it is vacated. Not all landlords request this but they may. If the tenant asks the landlord to repaint the flat, the latter will definitely request a clause to be put in the lease stating that it has to be returned repainted at the tenant’s cost otherwise he will deduct the cost of repainting the property from the security deposit.

When a flat is chosen, it is customary for the tenant to be asked to send an email with a copy of their indentification and either a copy of their work contract or the last two pay slips. This is simply to verify that the tenant is able to afford the rent. Italians usually have to leave a caparra, which is a a deposit to hold

the property during the negotiations period. If the agent or landlord is used to dealing with expats, they may not require a deposit but they will request the documentation.

Once the offer is accepted, the tenant will be expected to send a bank transfer or leave a cheque from an Italian bank covering one month’s rent while the lease is being drafted. Before doing this it is always a good idea to ask for a copy of the visura catastale, which is a document showing ownership. This way you are assured that you are sending the money to the owner of the property. Any responsible agency will make sure the tenant has this document before asking for the deposit.

The deposit to hold the property will be used against the security deposit. At the signing of the lease the tenant will be expected to pay the rest of the security deposit and the first month’s rent. This is also when the tenant will be expected to pay the realtor their commission.

At the handover, it is common to fill out a check-in list called a verbale di consegna and it is wise to take photos of the property to document its condition.

The meter readings will be taken at this time too.

It is recommended to choose a real estate agency that is used to dealing with expats because the entire process will be much easier, run more smoothly and be hassle free.

Zanni Real Estate, Via F. Menzio 30, tel. 0660670581 - 3358418861 3474009753, www.immobiliare.it/ agenzie_immobiliari/Zanni_Roma.html.

A day out

M A RY M O U N T

I N T E R N AT I O N A L S C H O O L R O M E Founded in 1946

A Tradition of Excellence One of the best international schools in Europe, Marymount Rome is a private, Catholic institution and the oldest international school in Italy.

Our strong International Baccalaureate Program complements a quality English-language international and American curriculum offering students the possibility to attend high-ranking universities around the world.

Committed to providing individual care and attention, students in Early Childhood through Grade 12 enjoy enrichment programs and access to a FabLab in addition to state-of-the-art facilities located on the 40-acre campus of protected parkland just 20 minutes from Rome's center.

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A day out

There are spectacular views of the village on arrival.

CALCATA: THE LAND THAT TIME FORGOT Less than an hour north of Rome lies Calcata, a mediaeval village clinging to a volcanic cliff surging out of the mists of the densely-wooded Treja valley. With its rugged tufa walls and steep pathways, entering this mystical, car-free hamlet is like stepping back in time or falling into a dream where Woodstock meets Hansel and Gretel.

Calcata’s story is indeed the stuff of fairytales. Its history dates back almost 3,000 years and the presence of humans in the area can be traced to prehistoric times. However in the 1930s Calcata’s story very nearly came to a shuddering halt.

The Fascist-era government condemned the craggy village due to fears that its foundations were subsiding,

and by the 1960s the inhabitants had either relocated to the newly-built Calcata Nuova nearby or moved south to Rome.

In the 1970s the old village received a new lease of life when Italian and international artists and hippies began squatting in Calcata’s abandoned houses and caves.

They later bought and restoredtheir homes, opened art galleries and cafés, and rescued an ancient village from being consigned to the cobwebs of history. The romantic tale was complete when the new residents succeeded in convincing the Italian authorities to reverse their decision condemning the village. Although only about 40 km from the hustle and bustle of the capital, Calcata feels light-years away.

A day out Those arriving by car will have to leave their vehicles outside the fortified gates of the 13th-century Palazzo Baronale – the village’s only access to the outside world – and once inside it is impossible to withdraw cash from a bank machine or even send a postcard, and forget about relying on mobile phones.

The centre of the action is the main square which is at times a market, a playground, a concert arena, a meeting place, an open-air wine bar. The rambling alleys of the village centre are festooned with artisanal shops selling art work, jewellery, antiquities and the kind of essential retro-vintage items associated with the beautiful people.One of the village’s many artists is Caterina Satta, who has lived and worked in Calcata for three decades. She says the number of residents has gone up and down over the years but now “there are about 60 – one of whom is Belgian, one Spanish, one Dutch, and two English. Many people come here from Rome on day trips or stay for the weekend, but on weekdays and during the summer the village is often empty.”

Some of Calcata’s best known long-term residents include Paolo Portoghesi – the distinguished architect who designed the mosque in the Parioli district of Rome and oversaw the restyling of the capital’s Piazza S. Silvestro – and the painter and ceramicist Simona Weller, whose work has featured on a Wanted in Rome cover.

In 2012 Portoghesi and Weller held a joint exhibition dedicated to Calcata in Palazzo Baronale, which acts as a visitor centre and whose recent restoration was supervised

by Portoghesi. A gallery of Weller’s latest works is located in the middle of the village and is open to visitors.

Throughout the year, cultural association Il Granarone coordinates much of Calcata’s artistic activity, holding concerts, jam

The pace of life is relaxed in Calcata. Photo Anna Madden.

Wanted in Rome 31

A day out sessions, theatre and art exhibitions at its base on the evocative-sounding Via di Porta Segreta. The organisation’s founder is Marijcke van der Maden from Holland, who is celebrated for her marionette puppets. For more than 30 years van der Maden has presented the village with its own personalised nativity scene, displayed at Il Granarone each Christmas. “All the statues are handmade and represent the real people of Calcata. Every year I make a new person and I never tell who it will be,” she says.Most visitors get their photographs taken in the main square, sitting in the three over-sized Etruscanstyle thrones, the work of local sculptor Costantino Morosin. In 1996 Morosin and Anne Demijttenaere, a Belgian actress and painter, founded Opera Bosco, the Museum of Art in Nature. Spread out over two acres in the forests below Calcata, this open-air museum is filled with organic sculptures and art installations and has a soundtrack of streams, birdsong and croaking frogs.

A tea drinker’s paradise can be found at La Sala dei 201 Thè – which boasts over 200 types of tea – while Caffè Kafir, whose Italian owner starred in 1970’s B-movies of the erotic variety, is the most eccentric coffee shop most people are likely to visit anywhere. Meanwhile the rock‘n’rollthemed bar Rockcaffè, just off the central piazza, has a glorious secret. Enquire about sitting outside and you’ll be directed to a tiny private balcony, with a table for four and a breath-taking view of the woods 150m below.

Andy Devane

ACCOMMODATION I Sensi della Terra, Via S. Giovanni 1, tel. 0761587733, www.isensidellaterra. it, rooms and apartments for rent throughout village. Gisa, apartments in historic centre, tel. 0761587989, gisa. federici@libero.it.

FOOD La Piazzetta, Via S. Giovanni 47, tel.

0761588078, honest-to-goodness fare includ-ing hand-made pasta, polenta and sausages. Booking advised.

Il Tugurio, Via Sinibaldi 7, tel.

0761587388, cosy restaurant serving local specialities, open Sat, Sun only.

GETTING THERE The easiest way to reach Calcata is by car. From Rome, take the Cassia bis (SS2); exit at Settevene and follow the signs for Calcata. Alternatively take a 20-minute journey on the light-rail train service from Via Flaminia in Rome to Saxa Rubra, then hop aboard one of the blue Cotral buses (www.cotralspa.it) to Calcata Vecchia. Buses leave regularly, and the trip takes a little over an hour.

THINGS TO DO Simona Weller gallery, Via Garibaldi 4, generally open 11.00-13.00, 16.3019.00. To visit after hours or to confirm the artist’s presence, tel. 0761587239.

Palazzo Baronale visitor centre Mon-Fri 09.00-17.00, Sat 15.00-19.00, Sun 11.0019.00. Bring suitable walking gear when visiting the stunning Monte Gelato waterfalls in Parco de Treja, a few km outside Calcata, near Mazzano Romano.

Open all year round and particularly beautiful in autumn and spring.

A day out

Beaches near Rome S. SEVERA

For all you beach-lovers here is a selection of resorts within easy reach of Rome. Each one, ordered from north to south, offers either stabilimenti (private beaches with entrance fees and changing facilities and refreshments) or spiaggia libera (free beach with the option to rent a lounge chair and/or umbrella), and all have children’s facilities. We have indicated how to get there by public transport, as all these towns suffer from heavy traffic during the summer.

Located about 50 km north of Rome and less than 10km south of S. Marinella. Take one of the regular Civitavecchia trains from Rome and the beach is a ten-minute walk from the station. There are numerous stabilimenti, restaurants and spiaggia libera and it is also known for the Italia Surf Expo which takes place every July.

FREGENE

A former chic hotspot of the 1960s and 1970s, Fregene boasts long stretches of sand with both stabilimenti and spiaggia libera. Along the coast there is also a wide selection of family-oriented restaurants and less expensive tavole calde. Rome’s club scene tends to flock to Fregene and nearby Ostia (see below) in the summer months. Although Fregene isn’t the easiest place to reach by public transport, Cotral buses depart from Rome’s Valle Aurelia metro stop (line A) and the journey takes about one hour.

S. MARINELLA

The northern-most beach on our list offers a small strip of white coastline with the choice of setting up camp at either the stabilimenti or spiaggia libera. There are two trains per hour leaving from Termini station for S. Marinella station and the journey takes about one hour. Popular with wind-surfers, particulary in July for the annual surfing festival.

Wanted in Rome 35

A day out OSTIA/CANCELLI

Ostia and the Cancelli (gates) are along the coast nearest Rome. Ostia is loaded with often pricey and trendy stabilimenti, while the Cancelli offer free beaches equipped with restaurants and bathrooms.

Public transport takes less than an hour and you can use the same metro/bus tickets for public transport in Rome.

Take the 070 express bus from EUR, or the Roma-Lido train from Porta S. Paolo beside the Piramide metro station (line B). To reach the Cancelli get off at the last stop and take the 07 MARE bus until you reach the gates numbered 1, 2, 3 etc.

ANZIO/NETTUNO

These beaches are only ten minutes apart and are easily reached from Rome. One train per hour leaves from Termini station, stopping first at Anzio and then at Nettuno.

The journey takes 60-70 minutes and the beaches are about a 10-minute walk from the respective train stations. Anzio has the Blue flag status given to beaches that meet the international quality standards for cleanliness both on the beach and in the water.

SABAUDIA

Famous for its beauty and spaciousness, this stretch of beach is another Blue Flag area. Although predominantly spiaggia libera, there are a few stabilimenti to choose from. Cotral buses run from Rome’s Laurentina metro stop (line B) to Piazza Oberdan in Sabaudia. From here take the shuttle bus which runs up and down the local coastline. Sabaudia is also known for its Mussolini-era architecture.

S. FELICE CIRCEO

Nearly 100 km south of Rome are the Blue Flag beaches and crystal clear waters of

Circeo. Stabilimenti abound but look for the spiaggia libera nearest the port: it definitely merits the mini-trek. Cotral buses leave for Circeo from the Laurentina metro station in Rome. Get off at the last stop and walk for ten minutes until you reach the beach.

TERRACINA Located just 10 km south of Circeo. From Termini station take the hourly regional train for Naples and get off at Monte S. Biagio. From there, take the bus for about 20 minutes until you reach the beach.

Terracina has as many spiagge libere as stabilimenti and both are well-kept and clean, making it a popular destination for families.

SPERLONGA The stabilimenti dominate this gorgeous getaway with picturesque views and Blue Flag status, leaving only narrow strips for the spiaggia libera. Take the regional train headed to Naples from Termini station and get off at Fondi-Sperlonga. Once there, take the Piazzoli bus for 20 minutes to Sperlonga, alternatively take a private taxi but be warned they are far more expensive than the â‚Ź1.50 bus ticket.

GAETA This Blue Flag area has a quaint mediaeval town to explore and clean beaches. From Termini station take one of the frequent trains headed towards Naples, get off at Formia and take the bus for another 25 minutes until you reach Gaeta. For more information about transportation consult the Cotral and Trenitalia websites www. cotralspa.it, www.trenitalia.it.

A day out

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A day out

Palestrina.

TIVOLI AND PALESTRINA: THESE ANCIENT CITIES ARE WITHIN EASY REACH OF ROME VILLA ADRIANA

Before reaching the hill town of Tivoli stop off at the Roman villa built by the emperor Hadrian in the second century AD. This is an impressive site not only because of its size but also because of its complexity and sophistication. Mosaics, statutes and archaeological remains from the villa can be found in museums the world over. It was here that the emperor and his court relaxed away from the summer heat of Rome and it also became the administrative centre of the Roman empire during the intervals between Hadrian’s long overseas journeys.

There were gardens, courtyards, porticos, a theatre, a stadium, three thermal baths, libraries, banquetting halls with guest accommodation and barracks for the military. There was also a minIature house surrounded by a canal where the emperor retreated from the world around him. Tel. 0639967900, www.villaadriana.com. 09.00 to sunset. €10 entrance fee. In the summer it is the setting for an international festival of drama, dance and music.

TIVOLI

Further on up the hill is Tivoli, the ancient Latin town of Tibur. Here there are still several ancient sites such as the Temple of the Cough and the Sanctuary of Hercules.

There is still an interesting mediaeval part of the town where one of the most typical streets is Via Campitelli. Don’t miss the church of S. Silvestro which is the oldest in town. If you visit Tivoli on the first Sunday in May there is the flower festival dedicated to the Virgin of Quinteliolo, when Via Maggiore is decorated with a carpet of flowers in honour of the Virgin Mary.

VILLA D’ESTE

A visit to Villa d’Este, the renaissance villa of Cardinal Ippolite d’Este and UNESCO World Heritage site, is a must, as well as the frescoed ceilings and rooms. The theatrical waterfalls and fountains were a marvel of the 16th-century world and the organ fountain, devised by the French hydraulic engineer Claude Venard, was so convincing that many visitors thought that there was

A day out an organist playing behind the waterfall.

One of the distinguished guests at the end of the 19th century was Franz Listz who composed music for the giochi d’acqua and firework displays. In summer the gardens are invitingly cool. Piazza Trento 5, tel. 199766166, www.villadestetivoli.info.

Opening hours depend on the season.

In the summer the gardens are open on weekend evenings. €11. Mon closed.

on a base surrounded by Corinthian columns. The Temple of the Sibyl is a second-century BC rectangular Ionic structure. Both were the inspiration for countless painters and garden architects when Tivoli was an essential stop for artists on the 18th-century Grand Tour.

LA SIBILLA RESTAURANT

This resturant, which first opened almost two hundred years ago, is probably the most famous in Tivoli. Here there is homemade pasta, a generous buffet of antipasti and good traditional cook-ing.

But its main attraction is the view from the terrace overlooking Villa Gregoriana from the shadow of two Roman temples.

Via della Sibilla 50, tel. 0774335281, www. ristorantesibilla.com.

VILLA GREGORIANA

This magnificent site has re-opened to the public again thanks to a restoration by Fondo Ambiente Italiano (FAI ) completed in 2007. These wonderful gardens offer walks, steep climbs and magnificent views over the waterfalls of the river Aniene. The villa is named after the 18th-century pope, Gregory XVI, who diverted the course of the Aniene to prevent the frequent flooding of Tivoli. www.fondoambiente.it/beni/parcodi-villagregoriana.asp. Opening hours depend on the season.

After your meal you could buy some excellent olive oil at:

AZIENDA AGRICOLA S. CLEMENTE

This is an organic agro-tourism establishment that produces Fons Olei, one of the best extra-virgin olive oil in Lazio. At harvest time you can also help in the entire production cycle, from picking to pressing the olives. Strada

THE TEMPLES OF VESTA AND THE SYBIL These two temples are the most obvious symbols of the Roman era and dominate an ancient acropolis. The Temple of Vesta dates from the first century BC and stands

Villa d’Este.

Wanted in Rome 39

Rent a scooter and get your 30% off Visit our website cooltra.com and choose your shop in Rome, come visit us with your WIR Card and start enjoying your scooter!

A day out S. Gregorio km 6,800, tel. 0774411068, w w w.agr itur ismosanclemente.com.

century AD polychrome mosaic of the Nile. The museum is located in the 17thcentury Palazzo Colonna Barberini which is built above the site of the ancient sanctuary. Palestrina was the birth place of 16th-century composer Giovanni Pierlugi da Palestrina and at the end of the 19th century the German novelist Thomas Mann visited the town on a couple of occasions using it as the setting for one of the crucial scenes in Doctor Faustus. Piazza Cortina 1, tel. 069538100.

If you still have time, relax at:

TERME ACQUE ALBULE

The mild climate and the beautiful setting have attracted people here from Roman times onwards – Sallustius, Catulus, Maecenas, Horace. There are four thermal pools with natural hydromassage, cascades and water games. There is also a sauna and a health and beauty centre. Via Tiburtina Valeria km 22.7, tel. 077435471, www.termediroma.org.

By now it is probably time for dinner so why not try:

PALESTRINA

Palestina is not far from Tivoli. The ancient town of Praeneste was conquered by the Romans in 338 BC who linked it to the capital along Via Prenestina, which still exists today. The town is famous for the sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Fortuna. But the archaeoligical museum is also worth a visit with its ancient sculpture, Roman epigraphs and its famous second

RISTORANTE ZI RICO Ristorante Zi Rico in the centre of the town, a mix of old-style mediaeval grotto and modern functionality. There is a good choice of food and wine. Via E. Toti 2-4, tel.

0683082532, www.zirico.it. Mon closed.

Azienda Agricola S.Clemente.

Wanted in Rome 41

INDEX

11.

22.

33.

44.

55.

66.

77.

88.

99.

11.

22.

33.

44.

55.

66.

77.

88.

99.

art galleries associations books car parks cinemas cultural centres education golf health museums music organisation parks and gardens religiuous social services support groups theatres rome secrets activities for children

Wanted in Rome 43

Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 06 6476 0105 OPEN Tue - Sun | 4.00pm - 2.00am

Free half pint with the Wanted in Rome Card

ART GALLERIES 1/9 Unosunove

Fondazione Pastifico Cerere

Via degli Specchi 20, tel. 0697613696 www.unosunove.com

Via degli Ausoni 7, tel. 0645422960 www.pastificiocerere.com

A.A.M. Architettura Arte Moderna

Fondazione Volume

Via dei Banchi Vecchi 61, tel. 0668307537 www.ffmaam.it

Associazione Culturale Valentina Moncada Via Margutta 54, tel. 063207956 www.valentinamoncada.com

Via S. Franceso di Sales 86/88, tel. 066892431 www.fondazionevolume.com

Franz Paludetto

Via degli Ausoni 18 www.franzpaludetto.com

Chiostro del Bramante

Frutta

Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it

Via Giovanni Pascoli 21, tel. 06 68210988 www.fruttagallery.com

Contemporary Cluster

Gagosian Gallery

Via dei Barbieri 7 www.contemporarycluster.com

Via Francesco Crispi 16, tel. 0642086498 www.gagosian.com

Dorothy Circus Gallery

Galleria Alessandra Bonomo

Via dei Pettinari 76, tel. 0668805928 www.dorothycircusgallery.com

Via del Gesù 62, tel. 0669925858 www.bonomogallery.com

Ex Elettrofonica

Galleria Extraspazio

Vicolo S. Onofrio 10-11, tel. 0664760163 www.exelettrofonica.com

Via S. Francesco di Sales 16/a, tel. 0668210655 www.extraspazio.it

Federica Schiavo Gallery

Galleria della Tartaruga

Piazza di Montevecchio 16, tel. 0645432028 www.federicaschiavo.com

Via Sistina 85/A, tel. 066788956 www.galleriadellatartaruga.com

Fondazione Giuliani per l’Arte Contemporanea

Galleria Frammenti D’Arte

Via Paola 23, tel. 069357144142 www.fdaproject.com

Via Gustavo Bianchi 1, tel. 0657301091 www.fondazionegiuliani.org

Fondazione Memmo

Via Fontanella Borghese 56b, tel. 0668136598 www.fondazionememmo.it

Galleria Il Segno

Via Capo le Case 4, tel. 066791387 www.galleriailsegno.com

Wanted in Rome 45

Galleria Lorcan O’Neill

Vicolo Dè Catinari 3, tel. 0668892980 www.lorcanoneill.com

Galleria Marie-Laure Fleisch

Via di Pallacorda 15, tel. 0668891936 www.galleriamlf.com

Galleria Monserrato Arte 900

Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 066861767

Galleria Mucciaccia

Largo Fontanella Borghese 89, tel. 0669923801 www.galleriamucciaccia.com

Galleria PIOMONTI

Piazza Mattei 18, tel. 0668210744 www.piomonti.com

Galleria Varsi

Monserrato Arte ‘900

Via di Monserrato 14, tel. 348/2833034

Montoro12

Via di Montoro 12, tel. 0668308500 www.m12gallery.com

Nomas Foundation

Viale Somalia 33, tel. 0686398381 www.nomasfoundation.com

Operativa Arte Contemporanea Via del Consolato 10 www.operativa-arte.com

Philobiblon Gallery

Via Antonio Bertoloni 45, tel. 0645555970 www.philobiblon.org

Pian De’ Giullari

Via di S. Salvatore in Campo 51, tel. 0668309410 www.galleriavarsi.it

Via dei Cappellari 49, tel. 339 / 7254235, 366 / 3988603 www.piandegiullari2.blogspot.com

Il Ponte Contemporanea

Plus Arte Puls

Via di Panico 55-59, tel. 0668801351 www.ilpontecontemporanea.com

Viale Mazzini 1, tel. 335 / 7010795 www.plusartepuls.com

La Nuova Pesa

RvB ARTS

Via del Corso 530, tel. 063610892 www.nuovapesa.it

Via delle Zoccolette 28, tel. 3351633518 www.rvbarts.com

Mac Maja Arte Contemporanea

S.t. foto libreria galleria

Via di Monserrato 30

Magazzino d’Arte Moderna

Via dei Prefetti 17, tel. 066875951 www.magazzinoartemoderna.com

Monitor

Palazzo Sforza Cesarini, Via Sforza Cesarini 43 A tel. 0639378024 www.monitoronline.org

Via degli Ombrellari 25, tel. 0664760105 www.stsenzatitolo.it

Sala S. Rita

Via Montanara 8, tel. 0667105568 www.salasantarita.culturaroma.it

Sala Uno

TraleVolte

Studio Sales

Valentina Bonomo Roma

Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670008691 www.salauno.com

di Norberto Ruggeri Piazza Dante 2, int. 7/A, tel. 0677591122 www.galleriasales.it

Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10, tel. 0670491663 www.tralevolte.org

Via di Portico d’Ottavia 13, tel. 066832766 www.galleriabonomo.com

Wunderkammern

T293

Via Gabrio Serbelloni 124, tel. 0645435662 www.wunderkammern.net

Via G. M. Crescimbeni 11, tel. 0688980475 www.t293.it

Z20 Galleria Sara Zanin

The Gallery Apart

Via della Vetrina 21, tel. 0670452261 www.z2ogalleria.it.

Via Francesco Negri 43, tel. 0668809863 www.thegalleryapart.it

Associations American International Club of Rome

Association of Malaysians in Italy

American Women’s Association of Rome

Canadian Club of Rome

Tel. 0645447625 www.aicrome.org

Tel. 3891162161 malaysiansinitaly@gmail.com

Tel. 064825268 www.awar.org

canadarome@gmail.com

Circolo di cultura Mario Mieli

Association of British Expats in Italy britishexpatsinitaly@gmail.com

Tel. 065413985 www.mariomieli.org

Apicolf (Associazione professionale dei collabo-

Commonwealth Club of Rome

ratori familiari) www.api-colf.it

www.commonwealthclubrome.org

International Women’s Club of Rome

Assindatcolf (Associazione nazionale dei

Tel. 0633267490 www.iwcofrome.it

Datori di lavoro domestico) www.assindatcolf.it

Irish Club of Rome

irishclubrome@gmail.com, www.irishclubofrome.com Wanted in Rome 47

Luncheon Club of Rome Tel. 3385094448

Navy League of the United States www.navyleague.org

Patrons of the Arts in Vatican Museums Tel. 0669881814 www.vatican-patrons.org

Professional Women’s Association Tel. 065827657 www.pwarome.org

United Nations Women’s Guild www.unwg.org

Welcome Neighbor

Tel. 3479313040 www.wnrome-homepage.blogspot.it

BOOKS Almost Corner Bookshop

Via del Moro 45, tel. 065836942

Anglo American Bookshop

Via della Vite 102, tel. 066795222 www.aab.it

Bibliotheque Centre d’Etudes St Louis Largo Toniolo 20/22, tel. 066802637 ww.ifcsl.com

Griot dall’Africa

Via di S. Cecilia 1/a, tel. 0658334116 www.libreriagriot.it

Herder Bookshop

Piazza Papa Pio XII 4, tel. 0669882402 www.herder.it

Il Mare, Libreria Internazionale Via del Vantaggio 19, tel. 063612155 www.ilmare.com

La Librairie Francaise de Rome La Procure Piazza S. Luigi dei Francesi 23, tel. 0668307598 www.librairiefrancaiserome.com

Libreria Feltrinelli International Via V.E. Orlando 84, tel. 064827878 www.lafeltrinelli.it

Libreria Quattro Fontane

Via Quintino Sella 39, tel. 064814484 www.libreriaquattrofontane.it

Libreria Spagnola Sorgente

Via di Monte Brianzo 60, tel. 0668806950 www.libreriaspagnola.it

Open Door Bookshop

Via della Lungaretta 23, tel. 065896478 www.books-in-italy.com

Otherwise

Via del Governo Vecchio 80, tel. 066879825 www.otherwisebookshop.com

St Patrick’s Lending Library

Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0688818727 www.stpatricksamericanrome.org

Borgo Angelico 18

CLUB APRÈS IS A CULTURAL ASSOCIATION THAT HOLDS EXHIBITIONS, COURSES, BOOK PRESENTATIONS, PROJECTIONS, TASTINGS AND DRINKS.

Open until late

Free entry with the Wanted in Rome Card

CAR PARKS ES Park

Parking Villa Borghese - Saba Italia

Parking dell’Auditorium

Piazza Cavour underground car park

Via G. Giolitti 267 (Termini station), tel. 0644704053

Viale Pilsudsky 21 (Flaminio/Parioli), tel. 068081646

Parking Ludovisi

Via Ludovisi 60 (Via Veneto), tel. 064740632

Viale del Muro Torto (Villa Borghese), tel. 063225934

Piazza Cavour

Terminal Gianicolo

Piazza Rovere (Vatican/Aurelio), tel. 066840331

CINEMAS casa del cinema

Largo Mastroianni 1, tel. 06423601 www.casadelcinema.it

Multisala

Cinema dei piccoli

Multisala Barberini

Largo Marcello Mastroianni 15, tel. 068553485

cinema farnese persol

Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 56, tel. 066864395

cinema intrastevere

Vicolo Moroni 3, tel. 065884230

cinema lux

Via Massaciuccoli 31, tel. 0686391361

EURCINE

Via Liszt 32, tel. 0688801283

Giulio cesare

Viale Giulio Cesare, 229, tel. 0688801283

Greenwich

via G. Bodoni 59, tel. 065745825

Via Bissolati 47, tel. 06485526

Piazza Barberini 24-26, tel. 0686391361

Nuovo Olimpia

Via in Lucina 16g, tel. 066861068

Nuovo Sacher

Largo Ascianghi 1, tel. 065818116

Odeon

Piazza Stefano Jacini 22, tel. 0686391361

Space Cinema Moderno

Piazza della Repubblica 44, tel. 06892111

Space Cinema Parco de’ Medici

Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 3-5, tel. 06892111

CULTURAL CENTRES American ACcademy in Rome

Finnish Academy

Via Angelo Masina 5, tel. 0658461 www.aarome.org

Villa Lante, Passeggiata del Gianicolo 10, tel. 0668801674 www.irfrome.org

Austrian Cultural Forum

French Academy

Viale Bruno Buozzi 113, tel. 063608371 www.austria.it

Viale TrinitĂ dei Monti 1, tel. 0667611 www.villamedici.it

Belgian Academy

German Academy

Via Omero 8, tel. 063201889 www.academiabelgica.it

Largo di Villa Massimo 1/2, tel. 064425931 www.deutsche-kultu-international.de

British Council

German Historical Institute

Via di S. Sebastianello 16, tel. 06478141 www.britishcouncil.it

Via Aurelia Antica 391, tel. 066604921 www.dhi-roma.it

British School at Rome

Goethe Institut

Via Gramsci 61, tel. 063264939 www.bsr.ac.uk

Via Savoia 15, tel. 068440051 www.goethe.de

Casa di Goethe

Hungarian Academy

Via del Corso 18, tel. 0632650412 www.casadigoethe.it

Via Giulia 1, tel. 066889671 www.magyarintezet.hn

Centre Culturel Saint-Louis de France

Istituto Cervantes

Largo Toniolo 20/22, tel. 066802629 www.saintlouisdefrance.it

Via di Villa Albani 16, tel. 068551949 www.cervantes.es

Danish Academy

Italian Institute for Africa and the Orient

Via Omero 18, tel. 063265931 www.dkinst-rom.dk

(African section) Via Aldrovandi 16, tel. 063216712 www.isiao.it

Dutch Institute

Via Omero 10/12, tel. 063269621 www.nir-roma.it

Italian Institute for Africa and the Orient (Oriental section) Via Merulana 248, tel. 064874273 www.isiao.it

Egyptian Academy

Via Omero 4, tel. 063201896 www.egyptianacademyinrome.com

Wanted in Rome 51

Italian Institute for Latin America

Polish Cultural Institute

Japanese Cultural Institute

Romanian Academy

Korean Cultural Centre

Russian Institute of Culture and Language

Via Giovanni Paisiello 24, tel. 06684921 www.iila.org

Via Gramsci 74, tel. 063224754 www.jfroma.it

Via Nomentana 12, tel. 06441633201 www.italia.korean-culture.org

Norwegian Institute

Viale XXX Aprile 33, tel. 0658391007 www.hf.uio.no

Polish Academy of Science Vicolo Doria 2, tel. 066792170 www.accademiapolacca.it

Via Vittoria Colonna 1, tel. 0636000723 www.istitutopolacco.it

Piazza Jose di S. Martin 1, tel. 063201594 www.accadromania.it

Via Farini 62, tel. 064870137

Spanish Academy

Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3, tel. 065818607 www.raer.it

Swedish Institute of Classical Studies Via Omero 14, tel. 063201596 www.isvroma.it

Swiss Institute

Via Ludovisi 48, tel. 064814234 www.istitutosvizzero.it

EDUCATION ambrit rome international school Via F. Tajani 50, tel. 065595305/301 www.ambrit-rome.com

american overseas school of rome Via Cassia 811, tel. 06334381 www.aosr.org

american university of rome Via P. Roselli 4, tel. 0658330919 www.aur.edu

Britannia international school of rome Via Ernesto Parisi 11, tel. 0671354252 www.britanniainternationalschool.it

castelli international school

Via degli Scozzesi 13, Grottaferrata, tel. 0694315779 www.castelli-international.it

castelli kindergarten

Via dei Laghi km 8,600, Marino, tel. 0693661311 www.castellikindergarten.com

core international school

Via Crati 19, tel./fax 068411137 www.coreinternationalschool.it

deutsche schule rom

Via Aurelia Antica 397, tel. 066638776 www.dsrom.de

Mater Dei SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. G. Cervelli - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. D0111 del 17-03-03

YOUR PRIVATE HOSPITALS IN ROME

Companies certified with ISO 9001:2008 Quality Management System

Via A. Bertoloni, 34 00197 Rome

+39 06 80220.1 clinicamaterdei.eu Wanted in Rome 53

Via V. Tiberio, 46 00191 Rome

+39 06 33094.1 clinicapaideia.eu

Paideia SpA - Dir. San.: Dr. A. Lamanna - Aut. Reg. Lazio n. 1072 del 10-12-02

Activities for Children

Celebrating 60 Years of British International Education

ST GEORGE’S

BRITISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

• IGCSE & International Baccalaureate program • Entrance to Universities worldwide • Extensive sport facilities & extra curricular activies • Two school locations • Age 3 to 18

www.stgeorge.school.it

greenwood garden school

scuola giapponese

Via Vito Sinisi 5, tel./fax 0633266703 www.greenwoodgardenschool.com

Via della Casetta Mattei 104, tel. 0665670219 www.isbi.com

institut saint dominique

Scuola svizzera

Via Igino Lega 5, tel. 0630310817 www.institutsaintdominique.it

Via Marcello Malpighi 14, tel. 064402109 www.scuolasvizzeradiroma.it

John cabot university

southlands english school in rome

Via della Lungara 233, tel. 066819121 www.johncabot.edu

Via Teleclide 40, tel. 065053932 www.southlands.it

kendale primary international school

st francis international school

Via Gradoli 86, tel. 0633267608 kendaleprimaryschool@libero.it

Via delle Benedettine 50/b, tel. 0635511023 www.stfrancis-school.it

la maisonette

Viale Monte Oppio 7, tel 064873185 Viale dell’ Umanesimo 72/74, tel. 065910339 www.lamaisonnette.net

St George’s British International School

liceo español cervantes

st george’s british international school

(Junior) Via di S. Maria Mediatrice 22G, tel.

063086001, www.stgeorge.school.it

Via di Porta s. Pancrazio 9/10, tel. 065882225 www.educacion.es

(Senior) Via Cassia km 16, tel. 063086001 www.stgeorge.school.it

loyola university

st John’s university

Via Massimi 114, tel. 0635344799 www.luc.edu/romecenter

Via Marcantonio Colonna 21, tel. 06393842 www.stjohns.edu/rome

lycée chateaubriand

st stephen’s school

Via di Villa Patrizi 9, tel. 064402654 www.lycee-chateaubriand.eu

Via Aventina 3, tel. 065750605 www.ststephens-rome.com

marymount international school

temple university rome

Via di Villa Lauchli 180, tel. 063629101 www.marymountrome.org

Lungotevere A. da Brescia 15, tel. 063202808 www.templerome.it

rome international school

the new school

Via Panama 25, tel. 0684482650/51 www.romeinternationalschool.it

Via della Camilluccia 669, tel. 063294269 www.newschoolrome.com Wanted in Rome 55

GOLF castel gandolfo country club (18 holes) Via S. Spirito 13, tel. 069312301 www.countryclubcastelgandolfo.it

circolo del golf fioranello (18 holes) Via della Falcognana 61, tel. 067138080 www.fioranellogolf.it

Circolo del Golf Roma Acquasanta

Oasi Golf Club (18 + 2 holes)

Via Nettunense km. 26,400, Aprilia, tel. 0692746252 www.oasigolf.it

Olgiata Golf Club (18 + 9 holes) Largo Olgiata 15, tel. 0630889141 www.olgiatagolfclub.it

(18 holes) Via Appia Nuova 716/a, tel. 067803407 www.golfroma.it

Parco di Roma Golf Club (18 holes)

Golf Club Arco di Costantino (18 + 9 holes)

Sheraton golf Parco de Medici

Via Flaminia km. 15,800, tel. 0633624440 www.golfarco.it

Via dei due Ponti 110, tel. 0633653396 www.golfparcodiroma.it

(18 + 9 holes) Viale Salvatore Rebecchini 39, tel. 0665287345 www.sheraton.com/golfrome

Golf Club Nazionale (18 + 2 holes)

Via Cassia km. 44,500, LocalitĂ S. Martino, tel. 0761609308 www.golfnazionale.it

HEALTH Clinica Mater Dei

Via Antonio Bertoloni 34, tel. 06802201 www.materdei.it

Clinica Paideia

ospedale oftalmico

Piazzale degli Eroi 11, tel. 0668351

ospedale pediatrico bambinO gesĂš

Via Vincenzo Tiberio 46, tel. 06330941 www.cdcpaideia.com

Piazza S. Onofrio 4, tel. 0668591 (also viale S. Paolo 15) www.ospedalebambinogesu.it

fatebenefratelli

policlinico agostino gemelli

forlanini

Poliambulatorio Nuovo Regina MargheritA

Piazza Fatebenefratelli 2, tel. 0668371 www.fatebenefratelli-isolatiberina.it

Circonvallazione Gianicolense, tel. 060658701 www.scamilloforlanini.rm.it

Largo Agostino Gemelli 8, tel. 0630151 www.policlinicogemelli.it

Via E. Morosini 30, tel. 0677301

policlinico umberto i

s. giovanni addolorata

Viale del Policlinico 155, tel. 0649971 www.policlinicoumberto1.it

Via dell’Amba Aradam 8, tel. 0651001

s. spirito

s. andrea

Lungotevere in Sassia 1, tel. 0668351

Via di Grottarossa 1035, tel. 0633771 www.ospedalesantandrea.it

sandro pertini

Via Monti Tiburtini 385, tel. 06415931

s. camillo

Circ. Gianicolense 87, tel. 0658701 www.scamilloforlanini.rm.it

spallanzani

Via Portuense 292, tel. 06551701

s. eugenio

Piazzale dell’Umanesimo 10, tel. 0651001

MUSEUMS baths of diocletian

colosseum, palatine and roman forum

Viale Enrico De Nicola 78, tel. 0639967700 www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it

Colosseum: Piazza del Colosseo Palatine: Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 and Via di S. Gregorio 30 Roman Forum: Largo Romolo e Remo 5/6 and Piazza di S. Maria Nova 53 tel. 0639967700 www.coopculture.it/colosseo

capitoline museums

Piazza del campidoglio, tel. 060608 en.museicapitolini.org

castel s. angelo museum

crypta balbi

Lungotevere Castello 50, tel. 066819111 www.castelsantangelo.com

Via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, tel. 0639967700 www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it

centrale montemartini art centre

etruscan museum at villa giulia

Via Ostiense 106, tel. 060608 en.centralemontemartini.org

Piazza Villa Giulia 9, tel. 063226571 www.villagiulia.beniculturali.it

chiostro del bramante

galleria colonna

Via Arco della Pace 5, tel. 0668809035 www.chiostrodelbramante.it

Via della Pilotta 17, tel. 066784350 www.galleriacolonna.it

Wanted in Rome 57

galleria doria pamphilj

Via del Corso 305, tel. 066797323 www.doriapamphilj.it

galleria nazionale d’arte moderna (gnam) Viale delle Belle Arti 131, tel. 06322981 www.gnam.beniculturali.it

galleria spada

Piazza Capodiferro 13, tel. 066861158 www.galleriaborghese.it/spada/it

Keats-Shelley house

Piazza di spagna 26, tel. 066784235 www.keats-shelley-house.org

MACRO

Via Nizza, tel. 060608 www.museomacro.it

Mattatoio

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4, tel. 060608 www.museomacro.it

museo carlo bilotti aranciera di villa borghese

Viale Fiorello La Guardia, tel. 060608 www.museocarlobilotti.it

museo della civilta’ romana Piazza G. Agnelli 10, tel. 060608 en.museociviltaromana.it

museo delle arti e tradizioni popolari Piazza G. Marconi 10, tel. 060608 www.popolari.arti.beniculturali.it

museo dei fori imperiali and Trajan’s markets Via IV Novembre 94, tel. 060608 en.mercatiditraiano.it

museo hendrik c. andersen

Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini 20, tel. 063219089 www.museoandersen.beniculturali.it

museo dell’ara pacis

museo napoleonico

museo barracco

museo nazionale d’arte orientale

museo borghese

museo nazionale delle arti del xxi secolo (maxxi)

Lungotevere in augusta, tel. 060608 www.arapacis.it

Corso Vittorio Emanuele ii 166, tel. 0668806848 www.museobarracco.it

Piazzale Scipione Borghese, tel. 06328101 www.galleriaborghese.it

museo canonica

Viale P. Canonica 2, tel. 060608 www.museocanonica.it

Piazza di Ponte umberto 1, tel. 060608 www.museonapoleonico.it

Via Merulana 248, tel. 0646974832 www.museorientale.it

Via Guido Reni 4, tel. 0639967350 www.fondazionemaxxi.it

museo preistorico ed etnografico l. pigorini Piazza G. Marconi 14, tel. 06549521 www.pigorini.beniculturali.it

palazzo altemps

palazzo massimo alle terme

palazzo barberini

palazzo venezia museum

palazzo braschi

scuderie del quirinale

palazzo corsini galleria nazionale d’arte antica

vatican museums

Piazza S. Apollinare 46, tel. 0639967700 archeoroma.beniculturali.it

Largo di Villa Peretti 1, tel. 0639967700 www.archeoroma.beniculturali.it

Via Barberini 13, tel. 064824184 www.barberinicorsini.org

Via del Plebiscito 118, tel. 0632810 www.museopalazzovenezia.beniculturali.it

Via S. Pantaleo 10, tel. 060608 en.museodiroma.it

Via XXIV Maggio 16, tel. 0639967500 www.scuderiequirinale.it

Viale del Vaticano, tel. 0669883860 www.museivaticani.va

Via della Lungara 10, tel. 0668802323 www.barberinicorsini.org

vittoriano

Piazza Aracoeli, tel. 066991718 www.museiincomuneroma.it

palazzo delle esposizioni

Via Nazionale 194, tel. 0639967500 www.palazzoesposizioni.it

Wanted in Rome 59

DENTAL CENTER CAMPUS BIO-MEDICO HOSPITAL Our team of dental health professionals are here to serve you, with 6 dental chairs.

We provide the following services: • Urgent medical attention • Medical imaging

(Panoramic X-ray machine, Cone-Beam-3D)

• Orthodontics • Endodontics • Gnathology • Dental implant • Children’s Dentistry

(+39) 06.22541.1080

WWW.HOSPITALY.IT

Campus Bio-Medico University Hospital - Via Álvaro del Portillo, 200 - Rome

MUSIC ORGANISATIONs accademia filarmonica romana

oratorio del gonfalone

accademia nazionale di s. cecilia

orchestra roma sinfonietta

amici della musica di roma

orchestra sinfonica di roma

auditorium parco della musica

roma tre orchestra

istituzione universitaria dei concerti

teatro dell’opera di roma

Via Flaminia 118, tel. 063201752 www.filarmonicaromana.org

Via del Gonfalone 32/a, tel. 066875952 www.oratoriogonfalone.com

Auditorium Parco della Musica Via P. de Coubertin 30, tel. 068082058 www.santacecilia.it

Sala Giacomo Puccini Lungotevere Thaon de Revel 1, tel. 063236104 www.romasinfonietta.com

Concerts at St Andrew’s Church of Rome Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 3336470115 www.amicimusicaroma.it

Auditorium Conciliazione Via della Conciliazione 4, tel. 800904560 www.orchestrasinfonicadiroma.it

Fondazione Musica per Roma Viale Pietro de Coubertin 30, tel. 0680241281 www.auditorium.com

Teatro Palladium Largo B. Romano 8, tel. 0645553050 www.operaroma.it

Aula Magna Università La Sapienza, tel. 063610051 www.concertiiuc.it

Piazza Beniamino Gigli 7, tel. 0648160255, 064817003 www.operaroma.it

musica per roma

Auditorium Parco della Musica Viale P. de Coubertin, tel. 0680241281, 892982 www.auditorium.com

Wanted in Rome 61

PARKS AND GARDENS botanical gardens of rome

vatican gardens

gardens of ninfa, Fondazione Roffredo Caetani Onlus

villa ada

Largo Cristina di Svezia 24, tel. 0649917106

Via della Fortezza 04010, Sermoneta (LT) tel. 0773695404 www.fondazionecaetani.org

giardini della landriana

Via Campo di Carne 51, Tor S. Lorenzo, Ardea, tel. 0691014140 www.giardinidellalandriana.it

giardini la mortella

Via Francesco Calise 39, Forio d’Ischi (NA), tel. 081986220 www.lamortella.org

roseto comunale

Via di Valle Murcia, tel. 065746810

s. liberato

Via Settevene Palo 33, Bracciano, tel. 0699805460 www.sanliberato.it

la tacita country club

Vocabolo Palombara, Località Miniera, 02040 Roccantica, Rieti, tel. 076563626 www.latacita.it, info@latacita.it

Viale Vaticano www.vatican.va

Via Salaria (Via Ponte Salario for Concerts)

villa borghese

Main entrances at Piazzale Flaminio and Porta Pinciana

villa celimontana

Piazza della Navicella

villa doria pamphilj

Main entrance at Porta S. Pancrazio

villa d’este (tivoli)

tel. 199766166 (call centre) www.villadestetivoli.info

villa gregoriana (tivoli) tel. 063996770 www.villagregoriana.it

RELIGIOUS all saints’ anglican church

Via del Babuino 153/b, tel. 0636001881 Sunday service 08.30 & 10.00 www.allsaintsrome.org

anglican centre

Piazza del Collegio Romano 2, tel. 066780302 anglicancentre.churchinsight.com

beth hillel

(Jewish Progressive community) tel. 389 / 9691486, www.bethhillelroma.org

international christian fellowship

Via Guido Castelnuovo 28, tel. 065594266 Sunday service 11.00

Jewish community

Tempio Maggiore, Lungotevere Cenci, tel. 066840061

lay centre at foyer unitas

Largo della SanitĂ Militare 60, tel. 067726761 www.laycentre.org

lutheran church (german)

bible baptist church

Via S. Giovanni re 1, tel. 334 / 29334593

Via Toscana 7, corner Via Sicilia 70, tel. 064817519 Sunday service 10.00

christian science services

ponte s. angelo methodist church

Via Stresa 41, tel. 0636014425

church of all nations

Lungotevere Michelangelo 7, tel. 069870464

church of sweden (swedish)

Via A. Berolani 1/e, tel. 068080474 Sunday service 11.15

footsteps inter-denominational christian South Rome, tel. 0650917621 - 333 / 2284093 North Rome, tel. 0630894371 akfsmes.styles@tiscali.it

international central gospel church Via XX Settembre 88, tel. 0655282695

Piazza Ponte S. angelo, tel. 066868314 Sunday service 10.30 www.methodistchurchrome.com

pontifical irish college

Via dei Santi Quattro 1, 06772631 www.irishcollege.org

rome baptist church

Piazza S. Lorenzo in Lucina 35, tel. 066876652 Sunday service 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Filipino), 16.00 (Chinese) www.methodistchurchrome.com

rome buddhist centre vihara Via Mandas 2, tel. 0622460091

rome mosque (centro islamico)

st patrick’s church (roman catholic)

Via della Moschea, tel. 068082167 www.centroislamicoculturale.it

Via Boncompagni 31, tel. 0642903787 Sunday service 09.00, 10.30 www.stpatricksamericanrome.org

salvation army

st paul’s within-the-walls (anglican episcopal)

Centro Sociale Virgilio Paglieri, Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

salvation army

Centro Sociale Virgilio Paglieri Via degli Apuli 41, tel. 064451351

Via nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 Sunday service 08.30, 10.30 (English), 13.00 (Spanish) www.stpaulsrome.it

st andrew’s presbyterian church

s. silvestro church (roman catholic)

Via XX Settembre 7, tel. 064827627 Sunday service 11.00 www.presbyterianchurchrome.org

Piazza S. Silvestro 1, tel. 0667977121 Sunday service 10.00, 17.30 www.sansilvestroincapite.com

st francis xavier del caravita (roman catholic)

venerable english college (roman catholic)

Via del Caravita 7 www.caravita.org

Via di Monserrato 45, tel. 066868546 Sunday service 10.00 www.vecrome.org

S. isidoro church (Roman Catholic) Via degli Artisti 41, tel. 064885359 Sunday service 10.00

Wanted in Rome 65

SOCIAL SERVICE associazione centro astalli (Jesuit refugee centre)

Via degli Astalli 14/a, tel. 066781246 www.centroastalli.it

caritas canteen

Via delle Sette Sale, tel. 0688815230 www.caritasroma.it

caritas foreigners support centre

Via Zoccolette 19, tel. 066875228, 066861554 www.caritasroma.it

caritas health centre

Via Marsala 97, tel. 064463282 www.caritasroma.it

caritas hostel

Via Marsala 109, tel. 064457235 www.caritasroma.it

caritas legal assistance

Via Labicana 3, tel. 067003951 www.caritasroma.it

comunità di s. egidio

Piazza di S. Egidio 3/a, tel. 068992234 www.santegidio.org

Joel nafuma refugee centre

St Paul’s Within-the-Walls Via Nazionale, corner Via Napoli, tel. 064883339 www.jnrc.it

SUPPORT GROUPS alcoholics anonymous

Via Napoli 58, tel. 064825714 www.aarome.info

archè - hiv + children and their families tel. 02603603 www.arche.it

astra (anti-stalking risk assessment)

Support for victims of stalking, tel. 066535499

disabled information line tel. 800271027

mason perkins deafness fund

Support for deaf and deaf-blind children, 0577532001 www.mpdfonlus.com

narcotics anonymous tel. 068604788

overeaters anonymous

Via Napoli 58, tel. 065743772, www.overeatersanonymous.it

ryder italia

Support for cancer patients and their families Via Edoardo Jenner 70, tel. 065349622 www.ryderitalia.it

the samaritans onlus

Confidential telephone helpline for the dis-tressed tel. 800860022

support for elderly victims of crime Largo E. Fioritto 2, tel. 0657305104

Activities for Children

READ THE AMAZING REVIEWS!

Wanted in Rome 67

N OT E N T I R E LY B R I T IS H , NOT PRECISELY ITALIAN,

T R U LY R O M A N Tea Room and Restaurant OPEN ALL DAY from 10.00am to 9.15pm

Piazza di Spagna 23 | 00187 Roma | Tel. 06.678.6027

web & shop on-line

www.babingtons.com

THEATRES globe theatre

teatro sistina

quirinetta caffè concerto

Teatro Vascello

teatro argentina

teatro vittoria

Teatro Belli

english theatre in rome

Villa Borghese, tel. 0682059127 www.globetheatreroma.com

Via Sistina 129, tel. 064200711 www.ilsistina.com

Via Marco Minghetti, tel. 0669925616 www.quirinetta.com

Via Giacinto Carini 78, tel. 065898031 www.teatrovascello.it

Torre Argentina 52, tel. 06684000346 www.teatrodiroma.net

Piazza di S. Maria Liberatrice 10, tel. 065781960 www.teatrovittoria.it

Piazza di S. Apollonia 11, tel. 065894875 www.teatrobelli.it

arts in english

This Ostia-based company produces popular song and dance shows. www.artsinenglish.it

teatro brancaccio

Via Merulana 244, tel. 0698264500 www.teatrobrancaccio.it

English theatre of rome

Teatro Ghione

Via delle Fornaci 37, tel. 066372294 www.teatroghione.it

Rome’s busiest English theatre stages diverse productions near Piazza Navona. www.rometheatre.com

teatro india

miracle players

teatro olimpico

rome’s comedy club

Lungotevere Vittorio Gassman 1, tel. 06684000314 www.teatrodiroma.net

Open-air comic adaptations of classics at the Roman Forum every summer. www.miracleplayers.org

Piazza Gentile da Fabriano 17, tel. 063265991 www.teatroolimpico.it

Enjoy stand-up comedy in English at Rome’s monthly comedy night. www.romescomedyclub.tumblr.com

teatro palladium roma 3

the rome savoyards

Piazza Bartolomeo Romano 8, tel. 0657067761 www.teatro-palladium.it

Rome’s longest-running theatre company generally stages comedic productions. www.romesavoyards.it

Teatro S. Genesio

Via Podgora 1, tel. 063223432 www.teatrosangenesio.it Wanted in Rome 69

Rome Secrets

COLLECTORS Villa Glori. September to June. Viale Pilsudsky, tel.

068541461.

Parcheggio Ludovisi There is an antique and craft collectors’ market every first Sunday of the month in the Ludovisi underground car park not far from Via Veneto and Villa Borghese. From October to April. Tel. 0636005345.

Mercato monti Mercato Monti is a design and vintage market with hand-tailored clothes and jewellery at affordable prices. It is held on Saturdays and Sundays, at the conference room of the Hotel Palatino, Via Leonina 46/48. 10.00-20.00, from Sept to June.

For full information check www.mercatomonti. com or email: info@mercatomonti.com.

Villa Glori In the elegant Parioli area of the city there is a collectors’ market every second Sunday of the month. The stalls are close to the pony rides in

curiosities right to the top. The second is from inside the Scuderie del Quirinale, one of Rome’s major art spaces, and the third is from the top of Palazzo Caffarelli on the Campidoglio. Take Via di Villa Caffarelli from Piazza del Campidoglio and half way up on the left there is a small door. Go inside and up the steep steps to the first floor (no lift).

You will find one of the best views ever, as well as a bar and a restaurant.

Best views in Rome There are as many good views of the city as there are hills of Rome. The famous ones are the view from the Pincio, from the Fontanone on the Gianicolo and from the top of St Peter’s dome.

But there are three that are less well-known. The first is from the Victor Emmanuel monument in Piazza Venezia, now reached by a lift that goes

Wanted in Rome 71

Activities for Children

Rome Secrets you can admire a magnificent colonnade with an enormous statue of Mars at the end. This is a clever trick of perspective by Borromini, because the gallery is really only about nine metres long and Mars is less than one metre high. Piazza Capo di Ferro 13.

Cappuccini on Via Veneto In the basement of the Capuchin church in Via Veneto, thereis an unusually artistic cemetery where the bones of 4,000 monks who died between 1600 and 1800 decorate the vaults and walls of four chapels in rather questionable taste.

A touch of the macabre, but it is worth a visit during a holiday in Rome. Via Veneto 27.

Roma underground organises tailor-made guided tours to underground archaeological sites normally closed to the public. Tel. 0654221988, www. romasotterranea.it, attivita@romasotterranea.it.

Caravaggio Start the visit at the church of S. Luigi dei Francesi (Largo Toniolo close to the Pantheon), which hosts the three masterpieces of the St Matthew cycle by Caravaggio.

Then walk round the corner to the church of St Augustine (Piazza S. Agostino) where you will find the Madonna of the Pilgrims. In S. Maria del Popolo (Piazza del Popolo) you can admire two famous paintings depicting the Conversion of St Paul and the Crucifixion of St Peter in the Cerasi Chapel. These are just the masterpieces that you can see in the churches. There are other Caravaggio paintings in the Galleria Borghese, the Galleria Barberini and the Capitoline Museums.

Rome Segway Experience Tour A quicker and more original way of visiting the historic centre of Rome than on foot, from the Colosseum to the Imperial Forums, from the Vatican City to Piazza di Spagna, www. italysegwaytours.com/rometours.asp.

Tram/bus 3 If you want to travel as the Romans do and get a good glimpse of many of the city’s sites, all for a €1.50 tram ride, then jump on Tram 3. You can catch it just outside Trastevere station. It will take you to Porta S. Paolo and the Protestant cemetery, one of the most beautiful graveyards in the world, along the side of the Colosseum, past three basilicas – S. Giovanni, S. Croce in Gerusalemme and S. Lorenzo fuori le Mura – within walking distance of Rome’s La Sapienza University and into Parioli, one of the most fashionable areas in town. The ride ends at the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna (GNAM) and after a visit to this modern art collection you could then continue to Villa Giulia the world’s best museum of Etruscan civilisation. From here you can walk through Villa Borghese into the historic centre of the city. The only site you won’t see is St Peter’s but you can do that on Rome’s other famous (or infamous) bus, the 64. But hang on to your possessions as this is a favourite for pick-pockets.

Contemporary architecture Rome is known for its ancient, Renaissance, Baroque and 19th-century architecture. But don’t forget the contemporary masterpieces. Here is an impressive list of buildings completed within the last decade. The mosque by Paolo Portoghesi (Viale della Moschea), the Auditorium Parco della Musica by Renzo Piano (Viale Piero de Courbertin 30), the Ara Pacis (Piazza Augusto Imperatore) and the Chiesa di Dio Padre Misericordioso (Largo Terzo Millennium8-9, Tor Tre Testa) by Richard Meier, the national museum of art of the 21st century (MAXXI) by Zaha Hadid (Via Guido Reni 4), the Nuvola conference centre by Massimiliano Fuksas (EUR) and the city’s museum of contemporary art, (MACRO) by Odile Decq (Via Nizza 13B). Rome is a modern city too.

Palazzo Spada On the ground floor of the elegant Palazzo Spada

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Rome Secrets

FABULOUS FOOD Taverna Trilussa

Gelateria del Teatro

Real Roman cuisine. The speciality is that most dishes are served straight from the pan. Via del Politeama 23/25, tel. 065818918, 065818918.

has been so successful that it has moved from its small shop close to the theatre from which it takes its name into larger premises onto the corner of Via dei Coronari. As well as the large selection of ice creams there are also water ices and you can watch everything being made. Via di S. Simone 70 (Via dei Coronari, close to Piazza S. Salvatore in Lauro), tel. 0645474880.

Open Baladin Beer and more beer. This is a gastro pub for beer lovers with an extensive choice of Italian and foreign brands, good food and cool surroundings.

Via degli Specchi 5/6, tel. 066838989.

outlets - shopping malls Castel Romano Open Monday to Thursday from 10.00 to 20.00 and Friday to Sunday from 10.00 to 21.00. Take Exit 26 on the Grande Raccordo Anulare (GRA), in the direction of Pomezia or Via Pontina and exit for Castel Romano. Outlet Castel Romano. Info tel. 065050050.

Valmontone This is the bestknown and therefore the most crowded of Rome’s shopping malls. Open Monday to Friday from 10.00 to 20.00. Saturdays

and Sundays from 10.00 to 21.00. To reach Valmontone from Rome take the A1 motorway (Roma-Napoli) and after about 40 km, exit to Valmontone. Info tel. 069599491 website: www.fashiondistrict.it.

Porta di Roma This is a huge shopping mall and includes one of the two branches of Ikea in Rome. There is plenty of well-organised parking. Porta di Roma is easy to reach on the Grande Raccordo Anulare, exit at Bufalotta. Via Alberto Lionello 201, tel.

0687074216, www.galleriaportadiroma.it.

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www.johncabot.edu admissions@johncabot.edu

Via della Lungara, 233 00165 Rome, Italy +39 066819121

Rome Secrets

street markets Viale dei Quattro Venti 77, tel. 065895258. There is also a good website, www.mercatinousato.com where you can browse the items for sale in the shops in your area.

Porta Portese market is held every Sunday from 06.30 to 14.00 in the area between Porta Portese and Trastevere. This flea market is extremely popular with Romans and alsoattracts many foreigners who flock from dawn onwards along the chaotic streets of the market, hoping to pick up bargains.

Piazza di Fontanella Borghese This market specialises in antique prints. It is located in Piazza Fontanella Borghese, between Via del Corso, Piazza in Lucina and Lungotevere.

Open every day except Sunday from 09.00 to 19.00.

Il Mercatino stores have a simple concept; you can sell anything you don’t use any more to someone else who might appreciate it. Ostiense, Via Manfredo Camperio 25, tel. 065748288: Gregorio VII, Via Ludovico Micara 32, tel.0639388832: Marconi, Via Antonio Roiti 46, tel.065530182: Porta Maggiore, Via Sebastiano Grandis 7, tel. 067024299: Eur, Piazza Beata Vergine del Carmelo, tel. 0697603111: AXA, Casal Palocco, Via Carneade 11, tel. 0683606157: Monteverde,

Via Sannio Here you can find clothing and items for camping, fishing and hunting as well as military uniforms and last season’s fashions, all at knockdown prices. From Monday to Friday 08.00 to 13.00.

Saturdays from 08.00 to 18.00. Via Sannio (S. Giovanni).

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Activities for Children

ART Sala 1 Paper, fabrics and photographs are just some of the materials provided by the artist Martina Hass to inspire children aged 4-8 from Oct-May. Piazza di Porta S. Giovanni 10 (S. Giovanni), tel.

067008691, www.salauno.com.

Casina di Raffaello To coincide with exhibitions there are also creative workshops to give kids aged 3-10

some simple pictorial techniques to fire their imagination. Mon closed. Viale della Casina di Raffaello, tel. 060608, www.casinadiraffello.it.

Explora The Children’s Museum organises weekend workshops for children aged 3-12. On Sat at 16.00 it also holds a series of animated lectures for the smallest, as well as meetings with authors of children’s books. Booking required. Via Flaminia 80/86, tel. 063613776, www.mdbr.it.

BOOKS Biblioteca Centrale Ragazzi This library is for children of all ages. It includes a video library and almost 2,000 foreign-language books, as well as a multicultural section on the history and culture of people from around the world. It also organises film screenings for children on Fri and animated lectures for children aged 2-6 on Sat. Sun and Mon closed. Via S. Paolo alla Regola 15/18 (Campo de Fiori), tel.

0645460391, www.bibliotechediroma.it.

Libreria Ponte Ponente

Animated lectures, readers’ workshops, artistic workshops and English classes for children up to 10. Via Mondovì 19-23 (S. Giovanni), tel.

0645426682, www.libreriaponteponente.it.

Il BrucaLibro

Afternoon activities, including creative writing classes, artistic workshops, English courses and animated lectures to explore the world’s best children’s authors. For children aged 3-11. Via Martignano 8/12 (Trieste), tel. 068543931, www. ilbrucalibro.it.

Activities for Children

MUSIC Parco della Musica, Largo Luciano Berio 3 (Flaminio), tel. 068082058, www.santacecilia.it.

Teatro Le Maschere A course, entitled Musicainfasce, for tots up to the age of 3 based on E. E. Gordon’s Music Learning Theory, which helps develop musical aptitude through the expressive use of bodies and instruments. A course for kids aged 3-5 develops their musicality through movement, songs and games. Via Aurelio Saliceti 1/3 (Trastevere), tel.

0658330817, www.teatrolemaschere.it.

Video Ambiente Individual music classes for kids aged 6 and older.

Via Ostiense 193/d (Ostiense), tel. 0697997869.

Il Melograno Courses for kids aged 3-5 to develop their musical aptitude through the expressive use of their bodies and instruments, creative workshops for kids aged 1-4 and English for kids up to the age of 3. Via Saturnia 4/a (S. Giovanni), tel. 0670475606, www.melogranoroma.org.

Accademia Nazionale di S. Cecilia This prestigious music academy offers children a series of concerts and workshops. Consult the academy website for full details. Auditorium

THEATRE olds, Fri for 14-17 year olds; Let’s Play Together is a theatrical workshop in English on Sat for children aged 8-11 and Thurs for 11-13 year olds; iVamos a actuar! is a theatrical workshop in Spanish on Thurs for aged 11-17 year olds. OctMay with an end of year performance. Via Aurelio Saliceti 1/3 (Trastevere), tel. 0658330817, www. teatrolemaschere.it.

Teatro Verde Courses for kids aged 4-6, 7-10 and 11-14 on Mon-Fri. On Thurs there is an English workshop, entitled Polvere di Stars, for kids aged 5-9.

Circonvallazione Gianicolense 10 (Trastevere), tel.065882034. Theatrical workshops to stimulate children’s expressive and communicative skills: Arte Giocando on Weds for 7-11 year olds; Tutti in Scena Allegramente on Mon for 11-13 year

Wanted in Rome 79

FESTA DEL CINEMA DI ROMA 26 Ottobre 5 Novembre

2017

12 Edizione

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Activities for Children

THE GREAT OUTDOORS farm animals and recognise different plants.

There is also a biological cuisine course for kids aged 6-11; an English course for kids aged 3-6 on Tues; a theatrical workshop, entitled Teatro e Natura, for kids aged 4-10 on Thurs. Booking is essential. Via del Casaletto 400 (Monteverde/ Portuense/Gianicolense), tel.0645476909, www. valledeicasali.com.

Agricoltura Nuova Farm Parents and children can have fun on this farm and learn how to grow organic products. It also organises guided tours for schools and workshops for children. There are organic fruit and vegetables on sale at the farm’s store, as well as a picnic space. A cheap and healthy restaurant is open at lunchtime. Sun 08.30-18.00. Via Valle di Perna 315 (Trigoria, near exit 26 of the Grande Raccordo Anulare), tel. 0650828294, 065070453, www.agricolturanuova.it.

Go-Kart Club Kartroma is a circuit with karts for children over 9 and two-seater karts for an adult and a child under 8. Via della Muratella (Ponte Galeria), tel. 0665004962, www.kartroma.com.

Bioparco Over 1,000 animals and special activities for children and their families at weekends. Kids can help feed the macaques, chimpanzees, hippopotami and farm animals, watch reptiles or ride through Villa Borghese on an electric train.

Viale del Giardino Zoologico 20 (Villa Borghese), tel. 063608211, www.bioparco.it.

La Fattorietta On Sun this farm and cultural association on four hectares near St Peter’s basilica offers seasonal workshops and activities for children over 4, including helping with the harvest, learning how to grow vegetables, making bread, jam, fresh pasta and cheese and milking a goat. Vicolo del Gelsomino 68 (S. Pietro), tel. 338/2916918, www. lafattorietta.org.

Bowling Silvestri This sports club has an 18-hole mini golf course, the first in Rome with good facilities for children aged 4 and over, adults and disabled children.

There are also tennis courts, a table tennis room and a pizzeria. Via G. Zoega 6 (Monteverde/ Bravetta), tel. 0666158206, www.bowlingsilvestri. com.

Looney’s Entertainment Centre This mega playground for children aged 0-14 includes frames, trampolines, bouncy castles, etc. Via R. B. Bandinelli 130 (Ciampino), tel.

0679321977, www.newlooney.it.

Casa del Parco

Nella Vecchia Fattoria

This regional nature reserve organises numerous activities during weekends for children aged 4-10 to encourage respect for the environment and recycling. In the spring environmental educators teach kids how to grow vegetables, interact with

During the Christmas and Easter holidays this farm organises kids’ camps with Italian as well as English-speaking teams. Children are entertained with games, sports tournaments,

Wanted in Rome 81

Areas

Activities for Children Dance

ACROBATICA

Insieme Per Fare

Circus Scuola Romana di Circo

This association organises courses in contemporary and modern dance, hip hop, break dance and classical ballet as well as karate and mini-basketball (minimum age 4).

Lessons take place twice a week for an hour. Via Pelagosa 3 (Montesacro), tel. 068185374, www. insiemeperfare.it

This circus school or-ganises courses for children aged 5-7, 7-11, 13-17 includ-ing circus, theatre, acrobatics and dance classes. At the end of the year there is a final per-formance. Oct-May. Mon, Wed, Fri. Via Prenestina 230 (Largo Preneste), tel.

3383552831.

CLIMBING

Associazione Il Fiume

Associazione Sportiva Climbing Side

This yoga centre organises movement courses for tots aged 0-2 and their parents (Mon), dance courses for kids aged 3-12 (Wed, Thurs), yoga classes for kids 6-9 (Tues). There is also day care for babies aged 0-3 (Mon-Fri). Via dei Dalmati 37 (S. Lorenzo), tel. 064451244, www.ilfiume.org.

Basic and competitive courses for 6-18 year olds. Tues, Thurs. Via Cristoforo Colombo 1800 (Torrino/Mostacciano), tel. 3356525473.

football u.s. boreale asd

Mini-volleyball

This foot-ball school, founded in 1946, organises yearly courses for children (minimum age 5) with professional teachers. Viale di Tor di Quinto 57b (Tor di Quinto), tel. 063325470, www. usboreale.it.

ASCR Dilettantistica Kronos Mini-volleyball with professional teachers.

Minimum age 5. Scuola Media Edoardo de Filippo. Via Sesto Miglio 78 (Cassia). Scuola Media Don Morosini. Via di Val Favara 31 (Torre Vecchia), tel.0664202251, 338/ 9011241, www.askronos.it.

martial arts otzuka club

Rid-ing courses for kids aged 4 and older. TuesSun. Via Valle di Perna 315 (Spinaceto), tel.

3892541852, www.circoloip-picolaperna.it.

This martial arts school organises various courses for children, including Junior Bushido for kids aged 3-9 (Tues, Thurs), Kudo for 9-15 year olds (Wed, Sat), Hwa Rang Do for 9-15 year olds (Mon, Fri). Via Baldo degli Ubaldi 147 b, tel. 3476548657, www.otzu-kaclub.com.

TENNIS

sub acqua diving

Circolo Tennis Oasi di Pace

salaria sport village

HORSE RIDING Circolo Ippico La Perna

Un-derwater diving courses for children aged 8-10 with twice-weekly two-hour sessions in the swimming pool or in the sea off Tuscany’s Argentario peninsula. The courses last six weeks and children receive an international diving permit at the end. Via S. Gaggio 5 (Settebagni), tel.

0688561601, www.salariadiving.it.

In the heart of the Appia An-tica park. 18 tennis courts as well as football pitches, a gym, a swimming pool with baby parking, etc. There are separate mini-tennis courses for children aged 5 years and over (Thurs and Sat). Private lessons with professional teachers are also available. Via degli Eugenii 2 (Appia Antica), tel. 067184550, www.oasidipaceroma.it.

Gabrielle Bolzoni Wanted in Rome 83

Activities for Children creative workshops, animated lectures and treasure hunts. Day packages include breakfast, lunch and a snack. Via Casale della Crescenza 12 (Cassia/Due Ponti/Flaminia), tel. 0633220472, 334/6440802, www.scuoladueponti.it, www. asilodueponti.it.

Vivibistrot

Teatro di Pulcinella al Gianicolo

Zoo Marine

This famous open-air puppet theatre on the Gianicolo has seen many genera tions of children grow up. On Sat and Sun it stages several shows

by Pulcinella and Colombina. Entrance free. Show times depend on the weather. Viale del Gianicolo, tel. 065827767.

This bistro, located in the heart of Villa Pamphilj, sells only organic products. It is possible to grab a bite in the cafeteria, organise a last-minute picnic in the park and rent a bike. Via Vitellia 102, tel. 06 5827540, www.vivibistrot.com.

This amusement and aquatic park outside Rome offers performances with dolphins, parrots and other animals for children of all ages. It is also possible to rent little play carts. Children under 10 must be accompanied by an adult. Via dei Romagnoli, Torvaianica, Pomezia, tel. 0691534, www.zoomarine.com.

SPORTS Baby swimming

Movement

Il Melograno

Associazione Culturale Eppursimuove

This association holds courses for kids from 5 months to 3 years on Wed and Sat morning and afternoon. Via Saturnia 4/a (S. Giovanni), tel.

0670475606, www.melogranoroma.org.

This association organises a Baby Moves Group based on Infant Developmental Movement Education (IDME) for babies aged 0-6 to enhance learning potential through touch and natural movement. Piazza S. Giovanni di Dio 4a (Monteverde), tel. 3395037762, Angelica Costa.

Accademia del Nuoto This academy has half-hour sessions for babies (after their first vaccination) and children up to 3 and their parents. Tues, Wed, Fri and Sat. Via Poggio Ameno 61 (EUR/Laurentino), tel.

065940169, www.accademiadelnuoto.it.

Roma Uno This public swimming pool organises baby swimming classes for children aged 0-3 and their mothers. Sat. Largo Ascianghi 4 (Trastevere), tel.

0658332757.

Yoga Associazione Il Nido This maternity centre organises yoga classes for pregnant mothers and children 0-2. Classes focus on the mothers’ posture during the post-natal months, helping the body regain strength, tone and emotional balance. Tues.

Via Marmorata 169 (Testaccio), tel. 065758648, www.associazioneilnido.it.

Areas

Areas AVENTINO - S. SABA FLAMINIO MONTEVERDE PANTHEON CAMPO MARZIO PRATI TESTACCIO

111 333 555 777 999 222

222

Campo de’ Fiori

444

Ghetto

666

Monti

888

Popolo - Spagna

111

St Peter’s

333

Trastevere

Wanted in Rome 85

Areas

AVENTINO - S. SABA A predominantly residential area, the Aventino is ideal for those looking for a quiet spot with plenty of greenery within a stone’s throw of the historic centre. However, the Aventino has few shops; it is therefore essential to have a car even though it is difficult to find parking. Cross over Viale Aventino and you reach S. Saba, a slightly busier version of the Aventino with better shopping facilities. It is a perfect place to live for those working

Areas

at the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, it is close to the sports facilities near the Baths of Caracalla and there is also an international school, St Stephen’s, an American-run secondary school that offers the International Baccalaureate. There are also several embassies and religious houses in this area. The Palatine and the Colosseum are within easy walking distance and it is not far from Testaccio with its markets and shops.

Wanted in Rome 87

Aventino - S. Saba

Parco Savello, better known as the Giardino degli Aranci, was once a monastic orchard containing an orange grove within its enclosed walls. The orange trees are still growing in this romantic park which provides stunning views of the city across the river Tiber below.

The real estate investment group Sorgente is to fund the restoration of the park and its adjoining Clivo di Rocco Savello walkway, linking to the Lungotevere.

Via di S. Sabina

On the eastern slope of the Aventine hill lies the municipal rose garden which is home to 1,200 varieties of rose. The gardens are open from mid-April to mid-June but it is possible to view the roses via an avenue dividing the gardens. This is the site of the annual international rose competition which takes place each May. Via di Valle Murcia 6

Rose garden

GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI

1

2

Aventino - S. Saba

The church of S. Maria del Priorato is owned by the Knights of Malta, an ancient Catholic military order, whose property has extraterritorial status. Peeping through the keyhole of the church’s door provides a magical view of St Peter’s dome, framed by trees, allowing the viewer to see across three states: the sovereign territory owned by the knights, then Italy and in the distance the Holy See. Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta

The National Institute of Roman Studies was founded in 1925 for study into all aspects of Rome, its history, archaeology, art, literature and science. The institute also organises national and interna-tional conferences, study days, visits to monuments, art collections and excavations in Rome, around Italy and abroad.

Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta 2

Wanted in Rome 89

ISTITUTO NAZIONALE DI STUDI ROMANI

s. maria del priorato

3

4

Aventino - S. Saba

APULEIUS

5

Apuleius is on the Aventino surrounded by the magnificence of ancient Rome in a charming and characteristic setting. In the dining room you will find ancient capitals, marble columns and the original wall of the temple of Diana dating from the 6th century BC. Via del Tempio di Diana Tel. tel 0657289229 www.apuleius.it

CALLARELLO A typical trattoria with traditional Italian cuisine. The surroundings are simple, cosy and welcoming but with an eye to detail. The extensive menu offers the traditional meat and fish (“di terra” and “di mare”) dishes of Italian cuisine.

6

Via Salvator Rosa 8 Tel. 065747575

THE CORNER

7

A boutique hotel, restaurant and lounge garden. Its elegant restaurant has an exclusive atmosphere but is quite expensive, serving a mixture of antipasti, pasta and fish dishes.

Viale Aventino 123 Tel. 0645597350 www.thecornerrome.com

CAFE DU PARC Close to the Pyramid at Porta S. Paolo there is a park with a retro-looking cafè where you can sit and have an ice cream, a “cremolato” or a drink.

The British romantic poets Keats and Shelley are buried in the Protestant cemetery nearby.

Piazza di Porta S. Paolo

8

Aventino - S. Saba

hotel s. anselmo

9

Decorations and elegant furnishings blend with a comfortable family atmosphere to create the feeling of being in a private house where you immediately feel at ease.

Piazza di S. Anselmo 2 Tel. 06570057 www.aventinohotels.com

emmepiĂš EmmePiĂš is a supermarket for everyday needs, divided into two neighbouring stores: one stocking food, the other cleaning and household items. Both shops carry an extensive range of products.

10

Viale Aventino 50 Tel. 065754315

c.s. aventino

11

With some 40 years of experience, C.S. Aventino has high professional and international standards. There is a 25-metre swimming pool as well as a sauna and a gym.

Via Marmorata 14 Tel. 065740637 www.csaventino.it

farmacia cestia This pharmacy sells homeopathic, veterinary and dermo-cosmetic items as well as dietary products for coeliacs to order. Extremely helpful staff. MonFri 08.30-19.30, Sat 08.30-13.00.

Viale della Piramide 19 Tel. 065743895 Wanted in Rome 91

12

Areas

CAMPO DE’ FIORI This area is in the heart of the historic centre, sandwiched between Piazza Navona and the meandering narrow streets that lead to the Tiber. There are probably more craft workshops and restorers’ studios, as well as family run neighborhood stores, than in any other part of the city. Campo de’ Fiori is the hub of the area, presided over by the statue of the brooding Giordano Bruno who was burnt at the stake in 1600 for heresy. In the morning it is home to the city’s most colourful, if most expensive, street market. This was once the place for

Areas

the best food at the best prices in the centre but now it is mainly a tourist attraction. At night Campo de’ Fiori is a very active and rowdy nightspot with its square-side cafés, pubs and bars. If you want somewhere quiet, find an apartment away from both Campo de’ Fiori and Piazza Farnese, home of the majestic French embassy. There is limited street parking for residents but public transport is relatively good and the clothes shops along Via dei Giubbonari are a real bonus.

Wanted in Rome 93

Campo de’ Fiori

Giordano Bruno was a 16th century friar, philosopher, mathematician, poet and astrologer. The Roman Inquisition declared his cosmological findings heretical and he was burned at the stake in Campo de’ Fiori in 1600.

Today a bronze, hooded statue of him acts as a popular meeting place in the centre of the square.

In recent years the Vatican has softened its stance against Bruno, falling just short of a full pardon.

Campo de’ Fiori

This historic bridge spans the Tiber, connecting Via dei Pettinari to Piazza Trilussa in Trastevere.

The bridge was formerly the Pons Aurelius but was destroyed during the Middle Ages. Pope Sixtus rebuilt it in its current form in the 15th century, giving his name to the bridge which is now just for pedestrians. In 2015 Ponte Sisto featured in the 24th James Bond movie Spectre.

ponte sisto

giordano bruno statue

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Between Via dei Pettinari and Piazza Trilussa

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Campo de’ Fiori

palazzo farnese

3 Currently the home of the French embassy to Italy, Palazzo Farnese is one of the most important high Renaissance palaces in Rome.

Artists such as Giacomo della Porta, Michelangelo, da Sangallo and Vignola all left their mark on the majestic palace whose Carracci gallery has recently been restored.

Piazza Farnese

Piazza della Cancelleria

Wanted in Rome 95

palazzo della cancelleria

This building, which is a World Heritage Site and is attributed to Bramante, was once the papal chancery and still belongs to the Holy See. It now houses the Romana Rota, the highest ecclesiastical appeal tribunal of the Roman Catholic church. A permanent exhibition of replicas of many of Leonardo Da Vinci’s machines and designs is open to the public.

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Campo de’ Fiori

da francesco

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This used to be a good cheap restaurant frequented mainly by locals, but over the years it has become more expensive and very crowded. It now concentrates mainly on pizzas but you can still get good meal if you wait a bit. In the summer there are tables outside.

Piazza del Fico 29 Tel. 066864009

PIERLUIGI Character, vivacity, courtesy and quality make this restaurant a point of reference for Roman and international diners alike.

Known for its vast choice of fish dishes, as well as pasta and meat, Pierluigi is far from cheap but you won’t regret the experience. Booking is necessary.

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Piazza dé Ricci 144 Tel. 066861302 – 066868717

EX CIRCUS

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Located near Piazza Navona, Ex Circus is a small and eclectic bar. Tea-room, cocktail bar, wine bar and exhibition space, Ex Circus offers wine, cocktails and desserts, as well as themed nights and cultural events.

Via della Vetrina 15 Tel. 0697619258

drunken ship The Drunken Ship is an American owned and managed bar with an international clientele. It is located in Campo de’ Fiori, known for its colourful food market and nightlife. The Drunken Ship is open seven days a week from 15.00-02.00.

Piazza Campo de’ Fiori 21 tel. 0668300535 www.drunkenship.com

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Campo de’ Fiori

D.O.M. hotel

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D.O.M. is a 5-star luxury hotel set in a 17th-century palace with 24 rooms including a suite with large private terrace. The ambience is enriched by numerous works of art and carefully chosen elements of design.

Via Giulia 131 Tel. 066832144 or 3311221427 www.domhotelroma.com

Punto Sma This supermarket carries a vast selection of exclusive brands ensuring the best quality at the lowest price.

Meat and fresh fruit, as well as a variety of detergents and products for animals are also stocked.

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Via Monte della Farina 51 Tel. 0668134070

Farnese fitness

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Tucked behind Campo de’ Fiori, Farnese Fitness caters to locals and tourists.

Perfect if you want to keep in shape while on vacation with a temporary membership or if you are looking for a long term membership.

Vicolo delle Grotte 35 Tel. 066876931

FARNESE This pharmacy sells homeopathic products, cosmetics, veterinary medicines and dietary aids. Mon-Fri 08.30-19.30.

Piazza Farnese 42 Tel. 0668806684 Wanted in Rome 97

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FLAMINIO This is a pleasant district close to the centro storico that has now become the city’s centre of culture. It is the location for the Renzo Piano designed Auditorium Parco della Musica and MAXXI, the national museum of art of the XXI century by Zaha Hadid. The national museum of modern art is also here, the Teatro Olimpico as well as many of the city’s foreign cultural academies and Rome’s main sports stadium. Close to Piazza del Popolo there is an attractive area of three to four-storey buildings, but around the Auditorium there are

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tall, rather anonymous mid-20th century apartment blocks, as well as the 1960s Olympic village now a fashionable place to live. There are parks and tree-lined streets and public transport is excellent. It’s not the best shopping area in town, but you will find everything you need, as well as many good local restaurants. Street parking here is easy and there is a large underground car park at the Auditorium.

Wanted in Rome 99

Flaminio

MAXXI

1 The MAXXI – Museo Nazionale delle Arti del XXI secolo is a national museum dedicated to the 21st-century arts. It offers cuttingedge exhibitions by leading Italian and international artists as well as a programme of events throughout the year. This multidisciplinary space was designed by IraqiBritish architect Zaha Hadid out of an old military barracks and was opened in 2010. It is committed to experimentation and innovation in the arts and architecture.

Via Guido Reni 4

Viale Pietro De Coubertin 30

AUDITORIUM PARCO DELLA MUSICA

The city’s main auditorium is a large multi-use complex dedicated primarily to music but also art, cinema, dance, festivals and literature. It was designed by noted Italian architect Renzo Piano and opened in 2002. Its halls host classical concerts throughout the year while in the summer there are open-air gigs in its Cavea arena. Its gardens are used for horticulture and food festivals. The auditorium is also the base of the annual Rome Film Fest.

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Flaminio

VILLAGGIO OLIMPICO

3 The Olympic Village was built specially for the 1960 Summer Olympic Games in Rome and is situated on the other side of the Tiber from the Foro Italico sports complex. Two-storey buildings on stilts were constructed on the site which then languished for several decades but has now become fashionable. The Flaminio stadium is nearby and traces of the 1960 Olympics are evident throughout the district.

Just off Lungotevere dell’ Acetosa

Between Piazzale Consalvi and Piazza Ponte Milvio Wanted in Rome 101

PONTE MILVIO

This ancient bridge across the Tiber, connecting Piazzale Cardinal Consalvi to the square of Ponte Milvio, dates back the Roman empire. The original Ponte Milvio was built in 206 BC but was demol-ished to make way for a new bridge in 115 AD. Much of the current structure dates from that time. It is best-known as the scene of the battle between Roman emperors Constantine and Maxentius in the year 312.

The bridge was modified over the centuries, most recently after damage caused by Garibaldi’s troops in 1849.

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Flaminio

TIEPOLO

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A small restaurant with salads, excellent dishes of the day, delicious desserts and a good wine list. A friendly and simple environment provides an ideal setting for a romantic dinner by candlelight.

Via G. B. Tiepolo 3 Tel. 063227449

LO SGOBBONE There is one dish above all that makes a visit to this small restaurant on Lungotevere Flaminio a must: the tagliolini al tartufo, with a mountain of truffles. Excellent Roman-style home cooking in general.

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Via Podesti 10 Tel. 063232994

BAR RED

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This is an excellent choice if you have just been to the Auditorium and you are bound to rub shoulders with famous people here. Bar Red prides itself on its elegant design, its cuisine and wine list. It also hosts cultural events.

Viale Petro de Coubertin Tel. 0680691630

TREE BAR The Tree Bar is a welcoming bar, home to a pleasant clientele. Located in the gardens just off Viale Tiziano, near the Flaminio Stadium, it is built entirely in wood and eco-friendly materials.

Via Flaminia 226 Tel. 0632652754

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Flaminio

B&B A VILLA RICCIO

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A cosy bed and breakfast close to Piazza del Popolo, Villa Borghese, the Spanish Steps and the Ara Pacis.

B&B a Villa Riccio is comfortable and inexpensive and is located in a quiet, leafy area.

Viale del Vignola 75 Tel. 0636000426

VF SUPERMERCATI You will find everything you need here, from pasta, meat, vegetables and fruit, to household products such as brooms and detergents. The prices are less expensive than other supermarkets in the centre of Rome.

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Via Flaminia 314 Tel. 063232433

CARPE DIEM

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The perfect synthesis of eastern and western approaches to fitness, where strength, flexibility, balance and control are combined in one discipline.

The objectives are to strengthen the abdominal muscles, the lumbar and pelvic area.

V. L. Signorelli 10 Tel. 06235040

GALLOTTA DR DOMENICO This is a well-stocked pharmacy. It also sells homeopathic, veterinary and dermo-cosmetic products, as well as galenic preparations, food supplements and gluten-free items.

Mon-Fri 08.30-19.30, Sat 08.30-13.00.

Via Fracassini Cesare 26 Tel. 063227507 Wanted in Rome 103

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GHETTO This is the small area that stretches from Largo Argentina to the river. Not much of the original ghetto remains as it was razed to the ground after the unification of Italy when the Jewish inhabitants, once restricted to its confines by the papacy, were allowed to live in other parts of the city. The imposing synagogue, which was built at the end of the 19th century, is still the centre of the area and large apartment blocks of the same era were built around it. The only remaining parts of the old ghetto are around Portico d’Ottavia and

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the narrow lanes that lead to Largo Argentina. Considerable restoration has been done in the area over the last decade and it is now a busy pedestrian precinct with new street restaurants cropping up almost every month. The old feel of the one-time ghetto is disappearing fast under the onslaught of tourists. There is a choice of kosher food, two excellent bakeries, and hardware supermarket. There is some street parking along the river.

Wanted in Rome 105

Ghetto

PALAZZO CENCI

1 Designed by Martino Longhi il Vecchio, this small Renaissance palace is best known as the site of the murder of the abusive aristocrat Francesco Cenci by his family in the 16th century. The role of his daughter Beatrice in the murder led to her public execution and some say her ghost still haunts the palace. A presumed portrait of Beatrice by Guido Reni in Palazzo Barberini has inspired many writers and poets such as Stendhal and Shelley.

Vicolo dei Cenci

BRASS MEMORIAL COBBLESTONES

On 16 October 1943, 1,016 Roman Jews, including 200 children, were rounded up in the Ghetto and sent to Auschwitz on a sealed train. Only 16 of them returned.

Visitors to the Ghetto today will notice cobblestone-sized brass memorials listing the names, dates of birth, deportation and death in the Nazi extermination camps of some of its inhabit-ants.

The plaques are installed on the pavement outside the homes of the Holocaust victims.

Throughout the Ghetto

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Ghetto

PORTICO D’OTTAVIA

3 The Portico d’Ottavia is a group of ancient monuments rebuilt

by Octavian (later the emperor Augustus) around 27 BC and dedicated to his sister Octavia.

Over the centuries it has survived fire, had its marble and artworks pillaged, and was used as a fish market from mediaeval times until the end of the 19th century.

It has undergone numerous reconstructions and remains the largest Roman archaeological attraction in the ghetto.

Largo 16 Ottobre 1943, close to Teatro di Marcello

Lungotevere de’ Cenci

Wanted in Rome 107

SYNAGOGUE

The Great Synagogue is the largest in Rome and one of the largest in Europe. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century to celebrate the opening of the ghetto walls throughout Italy and the emancipation of the Jews after the unification of Italy in 1870. In 1986 Pope John Paul II visited the synagogue, marking the first visit by a pope. In addition to being a place of worship, the synagogue serves as a cultural and organisational centre for the city’s Jewish community and also houses the Jewish Museum of Rome.

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Ghetto

GIGGETTO

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In the heart of ancient Rome, near Portico d’Ottavia is one of the most charming trattorie in Rome. At Giggetto’s you can enjoy the specialties of authentic Roman and Jewish cuisine - but they come at a price.

Via del Portico d’Ottavia 21 Tel. 066861105 www.giggetto.it

Sora Margherita Compact, no-frills trattoria with vintage posters, dishing up Roman pizza & pasta classics. Carbonara and polpette are a real must. Booking in advance is highly recommended. Opens at 20.00.

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Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30 Tel. 066874216

VINAIETTO

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Il Vinaietto is one of Rome’s oldest wine bars. The atmosphere is extremely relaxed, with excellent wines at reasonable prices. This “vineria” is a mix between a store and a wine bar. There isn’t much room for seating, just two or three tables and some stools.

Via del Monte Della Farina 38 Tel. 0668806989

DUCATI CAFFÈ The perfect place for an aperitivo, that classic moment in our modern urban life style. Salami, cheeses and an assortment of wines and teas blend with wonderful flavours and aromas.

Via Botteghe Oscure 35 Tel. 0668891718 www.ducaticafferoma.com

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Ghetto

B&B REGINELLA

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LB&B Reginella is on the 4th floor of a historic building in Rome’s Jewish ghetto, near the famous Turtles’ Fountain. It has large rooms with private bathroom. The Reginella’s rooms are air-conditioned and overlook the rooftops of Rome’s historic centre.

Via Della Reginella 22 www.booking.com

DESPAR Despar is an association of wholesalers and retailers that offers the very best to consumers in terms of goods and services.

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Via S.B. di Vaccinari 74

ACQUAMADRE HAMMAM

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The Hamman, or Turkish bath, has its origins in the Greek and Roman cultures. Here time stands still, and the per-fume of incense and the sound of running water invite inner harmony and tranquility.

Via di S. Ambrogio 17 Tel. 066864272 www.acquamadre.it

ARENULA This pharmacy is one of the few open at night. Just ring the bell and a pharmacist will answer. It is well stocked and you will find all the usual medicines for children.

Via Arenula 73 Tel. 0668803278 Wanted in Rome 109

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MONTEVERDE Monteverde is situated above and beyond Trastevere, on one side of the Gianicolo. It has charming old-fashioned three or four-storey apartment blocks and tree-lined streets. The main attraction of the zone is Villa Pamphili, one of Rome’s largest parks. It is a good place for joggers and fitness freaks and offers a series of attractions, several lakes and plenty of woodland. The district is quiet and relatively traffic-free, except the Via Dandolo area, which links Monteverde to Trastevere, and around Porta di S. Pancrazio. There is a scarcity

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of public transport but it offers a pleasant and seem-ingly unhurried way of life. It is the home of the American Academy and the Spanish Academy and therefore has a turnover of visiting fellows throughout the academic year. There are also various embassies and religious houses and the Spanish Liceo. The Salvador Mundi private clinic, much-favoured by foreigners, is here and the Bambino GesĂš hospital for children is just across the Gianicolo.

Wanted in Rome 111

Monteverde

CULTURAL ACCADEMY

1 The American Academy in Rome, which was opened in 1894, provides a space for US artists, academics, musicians and historians to study in Rome, and to interact with the city’s ancient history and contemporary culture.

Via Angelo Masina 5, www. aarome.org.

The Royal Spanish Academy has hosted Spanish artists in many fields of study since its foundation in 1873, providing a cultural bridge between Spain and Italy.

Piazza S. Pietro in Montorio 3 www.accademiaspagna.org.

FONTANONE

The Fontana dell’Acqua Paola, better known as the Fontanone (literally “big fountain”) is located on the summit of the Janiculum hill. The monumental fountain was built in 1612 to mark the end of the Acqua Paola aqueduct, restored

by Pope Paul V, taking its name from him. In 2015 the fountain the fountain featured prominently in Paolo Sorrentino’s Oscar-winning film La Grande Bellezza.

S. Pietro in Montorio

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Monteverde

GIANICOLO VIEW

3 The view from the Gianicolo hill looks out over Trastevere below, the city, the Castelli Romani and the Apennines in the far distance.

The panorama acts as a popular backdrop for photographs by tourists as well as couples on their wedding day. One of the best viewing points is the terrace directly in front of the Fontanone, which is connected to Trastevere by several steep flights of steps nearby.

Piazzale A Garibaldi

Via di S. Pancrazio

Wanted in Rome 113

VILLA DORIA PAMPHILJ PARK

This 17th century villa is surrounded by 184 hectares of Rome’s largest landscaped public park. The property of the noble Pamphilj family since 1630, part of the park was acquired by the city in 1939 and the remainder by the Italian state in 1957. The park is noted for its fountains, gateways, lake and statues, and is popular for walking, jogging, sports and picnics. The site is divided in two

by Via Leone XIII, with entrances on Via di S. Pancrazio, Via Aurelia Antica, Via Leone XII, Largo Martin Luther King, Via Vitellia and Via della Nocetta.

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Monteverde

IL VASCELLO

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This restaurant offers the possibility to taste typical Sardinian specialties, the classic Mediterranean cuisine and pizza cooked in a wood oven. All in a pleasant environment that puts us within walking distance from the wonderful panorama of Rome visible from the Gianicolo hill.

Via G. Massari 8/10 Tel. 065806517

IL CORTILE Home and friendly atmosphere and many good things to eat, starting with the large choice of different appetizers: fried potatoes, fried broccoli, rice balls and artichokes. When the season is right even porcini mushrooms and truffles.

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Via Alberto Mario 26 Tel. 065803433 www.ristoranteilcortile.it

BAR GIANICOLO

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Very close to the Gianicolo, this bar has a clientele of regulars customers that mix with the many tourists and Americans from the nearby American Academy.

You can have breakfast in the morning, a leisurely lunch or a drink at the end of the day.

Piazzale Aurelio 5

AL GRAMMELOT WINE BAR On the premises of a former grocery shop, the Grammelot is a real jewel.

Located on the Gianicolo overlooking Trastevere, (one of the best and most romantic views in Rome, especially at night) the bar is one of the few options in the area.

Via Giacinto Carini 39 Tel. 065800166

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Monteverde

VILLA MARIA GUEST HOUSE

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Villa Maria is situated near the two parks of Villa Sciarra and Villa Pamphili.

Thanks to its strategic position you can reach the Vatican and Castel S. Angelo in about a 20 minutes’ walk.

Largo B. Berchet 4 Tel. 065852031 www.villamaria.pcn.net

SMA This supermarket carries a vast selection of exclusive brands ensuring the best quality at the lowest price.

Meat and fresh fruit, as well as a variety of detergents and products for animals are also stocked.

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Via Fonteiana 59-73 Tel. 0658332152

Pamphili Fitness Club

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Pamphili Fitness Club’s philosophy is to allow maximum flexibility of the lessons, using the latest machinery, with the guidance of highly qualified personnel.

Via A. Calabrese 7 Tel. 065342233 www.pamphilifitnessclub.it

Farmacia Pamphili It’s a neighborhood pharmacy part of the community of Monte-verde Vecchio. It ‘s an “old” pharmacy, not because of the date of its opening (1975), but for the care and kindness of the staff. Mon - Fri 08.30-13.00, 16.0019.30.

Via F. Bolognesi 27 Tel. 065897083 Wanted in Rome 115

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MONTI Monti, between Termini station and Via dei Fori Imperiali, has a genuine village atmosphere even though it’s close to some of the city’s main tourist sites. There are characteristic centuries-old buildings and a small market, as well as the good-value Piazza Vittorio market on the Esquilino hill. The best thing about Monti is its position: near to everything but at the same time a world of its own. As its name suggests, it is on a hill and the winding roads are steep and narrow. There are plenty of excellent restaurants, good local grocers and artisan

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workshops. Buses run frequently along Via Nazionale to the north and Via Cavour to the south, where there is also a metro stop. The basilica of S. Maria Maggiore, in neighbouring Esquilino, is only minutes away, as are the Imperial Forum and Trajan’s Market. It is also the location of a number of good, recently renovated hotels. Parking in the heart of Monti is impossible although there are garages in the surrounding areas.

Wanted in Rome 117

Monti

Fourth-century paleo-Christian church dedicated to St Pudentiana, a Roman martyr and secondary patron saint of the Philippines.

The church was converted from a second-century Roman bath house, and traces of them are still visible in its apse. Today the church caters to members of the city’s Filipino community.

Via Urbana 160

Trendy market offering a large selection of hand-tailored fashion items by young independent designers, as well as bespoke accessories, vintage clothing, art works and collectibles. Housed in the basement of Hotel Palatino near the Metro Cavour stop, the market is open Sat-Sun 10.0021.00.

Via Leonina 46

MERCATO MONTI

BASILICA DI S. PUDENZIANA

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Monti

This large neoclassical building, known in Rome as the Palaexpo, was constructed as an exhibition space in 1883 by Pio Piacentini. It hosts regular shows, mainly with a foreign focus, and also has a cinema, lecture hall, well-stocked book shop and restaurant. Mon closed.

Via Nazionale 194 www.palazzoesposizioni.it

The focal point of this square is a fountain built in 1587 by Giacomo della Porta, who also designed the nearby Madonna dei Monti church. The fountain acts as a popular meeting place, particularly in the evenings.

Piazza della Madonna dei Monti

Wanted in Rome 119

PIAZZA DELLA MADONNA DEI MONTI

PALAZZO DELLE ESPOSIZIONI

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Monti

HASEKURA

5

Tourists are welcome but most customers are Italian, including many politicians and show-biz stars. There are few but high quality wines. There is a good choice of classic dishes on the menu and you will also find sukiyaki. Jazz plays in the background.

Via dei Serpenti 27 Tel. 06483648

ALLE CARRETTE There is a wide range of pizzas and the fritti are renowned, particularly the fiori di zucchine and supplì. Frequented by a mixture of locals and tourists, tourists, this busy pizzeria is a perfect venue for meeting up with a big group of friends.

Open daily and serves until relatively late.

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Via Madonna dei Monti 95 tel. 066792770

LIBRERIA BOHÈMIEN

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Stairs and shelves, tables and occasional lamps, painted walls and comfortable armchairs create a fascinating and retro atmosphere. Drinks are between 19.00 and 22.00, all for €5… quite cheap for a journey of mind and spirit.

Via degli Zingari 36 Tel. 3281730158

TRE SCALINI A true wine bar, or rather a bottiglieria, whose key features are the wine and the atmosphere. The Bottiglieria Tre Scalini is rustic and informal but well-run and it offers genuine quality products.

Via Panisperna 251 Tel. 0648907495 www.aitrescalini.org

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Monti

IL COVO B&B

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Il Covo features spacious and comfortable guest rooms set in ancient Roman buildings. It has excellent transport links by both metro and bus and is just one stop away from the main station, Termini.

Via Del Boschetto 91 Tel. 064815871 www.bbilcovo.com

CONAD IL BOSCHETTO Conad has built up a good national distribution system and offers a wide range of products and services in tune with the everyday realities of its customers.

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Via del Boschetto 52 Tel. 064880341

MONTI FITNESS

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Monti Fitness is a new gym in Monti. It provides jazz dance, pilates, postural training, hip hop, break-dance, activities for children, boxing exercise, weights room, cardio fitness. Qualified instructors.

Via di S. Agata dei Goti 19 Tel. 064743293

FARMACIA SAVIGNONI This pharmacy was founded in 1740 and in addition to the usual range of products it also sells homeopathic medicines. Mon-Fri 08.30-13.00, 16.0019.30.

Via dei Serpenti 125 Tel. 064882973 Wanted in Rome 121

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PANTHEON - CAMPO MARZIO This is the political centre of the capital. Within a few metres of the massive columns of the Pantheon you can watch most of the country’s politicians go by, to the Senate, the Chamber of Deputies, the government offices or just to the restaurants and bars that crowd the narrow streets. Whereas in other countries the parliament and government buildings shelter behind impenetrable security fencing, in Rome anyone can gaze at them from only a few metres away. Apartments to rent here are scarce and the family-run shops

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and street markets have been squeezed out by supermarkets, night-time drinking places, pizzerie and smart restaurants. The most elegant part of the area is around Piazza in Lucina, which is now a pedestrian precinct, just off the busy Via del Corso. There are probably more baroque churches here than in any other city in the world. Most of the area is now closed to cars, street parking is very limited and the existing garages are always full.

Wanted in Rome 123

Pantheon - Campo Marzio

If you look above the Basilica di S. Eustachio you will see the head of a deer, sculpted by Paolo Morelli in reference to the legend of St Eustace, a general under Emperor Trajan. The story goes that while he was hunting stag in Tivoli Eustace had a vision of a crucifix between a stag’s antlers, leading to his conversion to Christianity.

Via di S. Eustachio

The churches of S. Agostino (in Piazza S. Agostino), and S. Luigi dei Francesi (in Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi) hold works by the 17thcentury artist Michelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio. The Madonna del Loreto was painted in 1609 and can be viewed in S. Agostino, while the St Matthew’s series of three masterpieces is in S. Luigi dei Francesi. a - Piazza S. Agostino b - Piazza di S. Luigi de’ Francesi

caravaggio paintings

basilica di s. eustachio

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Pantheon - Campo Marzio

pantheon

3 The Pantheon was founded in 27 BC by Marcus Agrippa and dedicated to all the gods of ancient Rome but it burnt down in 80 AD. It was then rebuilt by the emperor Hadrian between 120 and 124 AD. The building was converted to a Christian church by Pope Boniface IV in 609. The Pantheon has the world’s largest non-reinforced concrete dome, whose height from floor to the oculus, and diameter of the interior circle, is 43.3m. The Pantheon is also the burial place of 16th-century artist Raphael and two Italian kings, Vittorio Emanuele II and Umberto I. Piazza della Rotonda

Via del Caravita 8

Wanted in Rome 125

chiesa di s. ignazio di loyola

The church of St Ignatius of Loyola is best known for its trompe-l’œil fresco painted in the dome. Funds for the building ran out before the dome over the altar was completed so the painter Andrea Pozzo created the illusion of a tall, ribbed and coffered dome on the flat ceiling.

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Pantheon - Campo Marzio

Maccheroni

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Laid-back restaurant mixing farmstead decor with industrial chic, serving homemade Roman cuisine. Opens at 7 PM. Piazza delle Coppelle 44 Tel. 0668307895

CASA BLEVE Casa Bleve is an extremely elegant venue, considered among Rome’s most beautiful wine bars. Its extensive wine list, both by the bottle and by the glass, is complemented by a buffet offering meats, cheeses, fish and salads.

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Via del Teatro Valle 48 Tel. 0645476337

salotto 42

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An elegant bar furnished in vintage style.

A trendy location facing ancient Roman ruins with a mix of locals and expats. At the weekend brunch and a buffet are served. Voted one of the world’s best bars.

Piazza di Pietra 42 Tel. 066785804

spiriti If you are living or working in the Pantheon area you must stop by and visit this small family-run Enoteca. Here you will be able to taste excellent salads along with very good raw fish. The wine list offers a vast selection. Service is friendly and professional. This Enoteca isn’t exactly cheap but it’s worth a try.

Via S. Eustachio 5 Tel. 066833691

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Pantheon - Campo Marzio

albergo abruzzi

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Set in the heart of the historic centre, this hotel is ideal for those of you who really want to get a feel of Rome.

The historic building was completely renovated in 2006 and features modern facilities.

Piazza della Rotonda 69 Tel. 066792021 www.hotelabruzzi.it

díperdí DíperDí is a chain of supermarkets that provides food, goods and services on your doorstep. It will meet all your daily needs, from fresh and organic food to a complete range of high quality brands.

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Via Giustiniani 18 Tel. 0668891452

moves

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Fitness for women and man in the centre of Rome. Here you will find innovative methods, the latest equipment and competent personal trainers.

Via dei Coronari 46 Tel. 066864989

international CHEMIST One of the most popular pharmacies in the centre thanks partly to its location.

It is often open late at night and you will find almost everything you need, from the most basic medicines to beauty creams and toys for children.

Piazza Capranica 96, Via Colonnelle 1 Tel. 066794680 Wanted in Rome 127

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POPOLO - SPAGNA If you are looking for somewhere to live in this part of town head for the charming Via Margutta nestled under the Pincio hill. It was once a warren of artists’ studios, but is now an up-market area where you will be paying over the odds. There are picturesque apartments on the numerous streets that lead from Via del Babuino to Via del Corso but they are almost inaccessible by car. It is still the best, most fashionable and most expensive shopping area in town and you can wander from Bulgari, to Gucci, Fendi, Max Mara, Armani and plenty

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more in just a few minutes. It is full of restaurants, which are no longer as good as they used to be, but this is the place for the city’s top hotels such as the Hassler, d’Inghilterra, the Plaza and de Russie. Head towards Piazza del Popolo if you are looking for some quiet or up the Spanish Steps to the area around the French Academy at Villa Medici. There is a busy metro stop in Piazza di Spagna and one just off Piazza del Popolo; there are always plenty of taxis but hardly any buses.

Wanted in Rome 129

Popolo - Spagna

barcaccia fountain

1 Set at the bottom of the Spanish Steps, the Barcaccia was commissioned by Pope Urban VIII (1623-1644), allegedly inspired by a boat washed up there during a flood of the river Tiber. The travertine fountain was built in 1626-29 and is accredited to Pietro Bernini, father of the more famous Gian Lorenzo who possibly assisted in creating the monument.

Via di S. Piazza di Spagna, at the bottom of the Spanish Steps

Piazza del Popolo 12

basilica of s. maria del popolo

This church contains works by several famous artists including Bernini, Caravaggio and Raphael.

The basilica was consecrated in 1477, although its origins date back to 1099. In in the mid-17th century Bernini added a baroque façade. The Cerasi Chapel inside the basilica has two of Caravaggio’s most famous works: the Crucifixion of St Peter and Conversion on the Way to Damascus.

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Popolo - Spagna

keats-shelley house

3 This small museum is dedicated to the lives of English Romantic poets John Keats and Percy Bysshe Shelley. Located at the foot of the Spanish Steps, the museum contains one of the world’s largest collections of memorabilia and manuscripts relating to Keats and Shelley, as well as Lord Byron, Wordsworth, Robert Browning, Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Oscar Wilde.

Piazza di Spagna 26 Tel. 066784235 www.keats-shelley-house.it

From Piazza del Popolo to Piazza Venezia

Wanted in Rome 131

Via del Corso

Linking Piazza Venezia with Piazza del Popolo, this is Rome’s main shopping area and most of the city’s luxury shops are located in the narrow streets to the left and right. The 1.5-km thoroughfare also passes close to the Trevi fountain, the chamber of deputies, the Pantheon and Palazzo Doria Pamphilj.

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Popolo - Spagna

gusto

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The pizzeria is on the ground floor, but the dining area extends under the arcade around Piazza Augusto Imperatore. Inside it is a bit like a factory; iron beams are combined with wood but all in inviting neutral tones.

Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9 Tel. 063226273 www.gusto.it

hotel locarno

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settimio All’Arancio Settimio all’Arancio offers traditional Mediterranean cuisine, an extensive wine selection, tables outside, but also an air conditioned area. All major credit cards are accepted and reservations are advisable. The specialties are grilled meat and fish. Good quality at reasonable prices.

Via dell’Arancio 50 Tel. 066876119 www.settimioallarancio.com

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Don’t miss this unusual location in the heart of Rome, especially on warm evenings. Today the Locarno’s prestigious top floor terrace is open to the public for excellent cocktails and dinner. At weekends there is live jazz.

Via della Penna 22 Tel. 063610841 www.hotellocarno.com

buvette Elegant with a very professional service, similar to the old coffee shops. As well as the restaurant, Buvette also has a tearoom. Well prepared dishes, including excellent homemade desserts. It is advisable to book.

Via Vittoria 44 Tel. 066790383

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Popolo - Spagna

hotel forte

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Hotel Forte is situated in a historic building in Via Margutta, a nice little street in Rome’s historic centre, near the Spanish Steps and the Spagna metro station, line A. Via Margutta 61 Tel. 063207625 www.hotelforte.com

superemme A small supermarket in the centre of Rome, but despite its size it provides everything you might need. Frozen food and fresh fruit, household goods and detergents. The prices are higher than in other areas of the city.

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Via Soderini 10 Tel. 0636005377

linea fitness club

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In the historic heart of Rome, near famous designer shops, Linea Fitness Club has offered its clients a highquality professional service for more than 25 years.

Via Bocca di Leone 60 Tel. 066798356 www.lineafitnessclub.it

farmacia trinita’ DEI MONTI This pharmacy offers, among other products, homeopathic, health and dermocosmetics ones. Mon-Sat 08.3020.00.

Piazza di Spagna 30 Tel. 066790626 Wanted in Rome 133

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Areas

PRATI Built at the end of the 19th century, Prati is one of the few examples of rational city planning in Rome. It has wide streets, well-built apartment blocks around internal courtyards and a solid, respectable air. This is a good place for both food and clothes shopping and is much cheaper than the historic centre (the most important streets are Via Trionfale for food and Via Cola di Rienzo for clothes). Prati offers a great variety of attractions, from restaurants to cinemas and night clubs. It is near St Peter’s and not far from the centro storico. Public

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transport is good (both buses and underground) and it’s a good solution for those who want to be close to the centre, but who can’t afford the prices. Apartments are more spacious and cheaper than in more central zones and there is plenty of street parking for residents and off-street parking in private garages. Prati is the home of Rome’s criminal and civil courts and many lawyers have their offices here.

Wanted in Rome 135

Prati

corte di cassazione

1 The Palace of Justice is located between Piazza Cavour and the Lungotevere embankments and is known by Romans as the Palazzaccio. It is the seat of the Supreme Court of Cassation.

Designed by Perugia architect Guglielmo Calderini, the building was one of the largest construction projects carried out in Rome in the late 19th century. It underwent extensive renovations in the 1970s due to its foundations sinking into the alluvial soil below. Prati is also the home of the the civil courts in Via Giulio Cesare and the criminal courts in Piazzale degli Eroi.

Piazza Cavour

Via Ulpiano 29

chiesa sacro cuore del suffragio

The church of the Sacred Heart of Suffrage is sometimes referred to as the little Milan Cathedral thanks to its remarkable neogothic facade. The church also houses the Museum of the Souls of Purgatory whose walls contain the likeness of a human face, dating to a fire in 1897. The priest at the time believed the image was a soul in Purgatory making contact with the living. Located on the Lungotevere near the Corte Costituzionale, the church was designed by Giuseppe Gualandi and completed in 1917.

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Prati

stadio olimpico

3 Rome’s Olympic Stadium was inaugurated in 1953 although its history dates back to 1928 when there was a smaller fascistbuilt stadium on the same site. It hosted the opening and closing ceremonies of the 1960 Summer Olympics. It was almost entirely rebuilt for the 1990 World Cup and then had another minor restyling in 2008. The stadium, which seats more than 70,000 spectators, is home to the Serie A football clubs Lazio and AS Roma, and each year it hosts international matches, the Golden Gala track and field event, and the Coppa Italia final.

Viale dei Gladiatori

From Piazza della LibertĂ to Piazza del Risorgimento

Wanted in Rome 137

via cola di rienzo

Prati’s main shopping street offers a combination of clothing chain stores, boutiques and food shops. Prices here are cheaper than in the historic centre. The thoroughfare is named after the mediaeval politician and tribune of the Roman people who is commemorated with a statue near the Campidoglio, where he was killed in 1354.

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Prati

zen sushi restaurant

5

Inspired by the culture of the Land of the Rising Sun, this restaurant is designed to meet the most demanding customers’ requests with a careful selection of raw seafood and expertly combined vegetables.

Via degli Scipioni 243 Tel. 063213420

dal toscano A fine selection of Tuscan dishes. Tuscan starters, fagioli al fiasco, pappardelle and pici alla toscana, ribollita, all with a good bottle of Chianti and above all the best grilled meat, have made this famous among the capital’s restaurants.

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Via Germanico 58 Tel. 0639725717

il sorpasso

7

A very nice place where you can start with an aperitivo (good choice of wines and cocktails) and continue with dinner. All dishes are good and the staff is pleasant and welcoming. Finally a friendly place in Prati. Just of Piazza Risorgimento.

Via Properzio 31 Tel. 0689024554

La Zanzara Excellent drinks, food and atmosphere.

Great attentions from the staff. The bartenders know what they’re doing and are very creative with the preparation and presentation of cocktails! Opens from 7.30 AM to 02.00 AM. Via Crescenzio 84 Tel. 0668392227

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Prati

hotel metropoliS

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Hotel Metropolis is near the Vatican City and Villa Borghese, 200 metres from Lepanto metro station. The modern rooms have air conditioning, TV and minibar. The Metropolis is just ten minutes’ walk from St Peter’s and the Vatican Museums.

Via delle Milizie 26 Tel. 0637512539 www.hotelmetropolisrome.com

tuo spa This supermarket aims to sell as many products to as many customers as possible for as little as possible, but at the same time guaranteeing both safety and quality.

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Via Ferrari Giuseppe 43 Tel. 0637518144

dabliu

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In the heart of Prati, among the many elegant buildings along Viale Giulio Cesare, the 1,300 sqm of Dabliu Prati, is dedicated to your physical and mental well-being. This is a place to keep fit but also to escape from everyday stress.

Viale Giulio Cesare 43 Tel. 0632110214 www.dabliu.com

giulio cesare This pharmacy was founded in 1838 and sells veterinary products, cosmetics, homeopathic medicines, gluten-free items, galenic preparations and Chinese remedies. Mon-Sat 08.30-19.30.

Viale Giulio Cesare 209-211 Tel. 0639725493 Wanted in Rome 139

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Areas

ST PETER’S Life here centres on St Peter’s and the pilgrim trade but the surrounding “borghi”, as they are known, are an indication of what the area was like before Mussolini knocked most of it down to drive Via della Conciliazione straight through to St Peter’s Square. Full of tourists, pilgrims, priests and Vatican officials, the area is always crowded and is not for anyone with a car. The residential area is Borgo Pio, now a pedestrian precinct, where some Romans

Areas

still live and work. There are a few good and reasonably priced hotels but the restaurants are generally expensive and poor quality. Going towards the Tiber, you will see Castel S. Angelo, once a fortress for the popes, now a museum, surrounded by one of the few green parks in the centre. There is an interesting residential area just behind Castel S. Angelo where the apartment buildings are of solid, late 19th-century construction.

Wanted in Rome 141

St Peter’s

castel s. angelo

1 Initially built as a mausoleum for the emperor Hadrian and his family, Castel S. Angelo was later used as a papal fortress and is connected to the Vatican via an 800-m long escape route called the Passetto di Borgo. It was used as a prison from Renaissance times up to the 19th century and today is a museum.

Lungotevere Castello

Piazza S. Pietro

st peter’s

The original fourth-century church was built over the place where St Peter was thought to have been buried. It soon became the central place of Christian worship and pilgrimage in western Europe but by the end of the 15th century the church buildings were in a bad state of repair and were demolished. Rebuilding started under Pope Julius II and over the next century almost all the great Renaissance architects and artists – Bramante, Bernini, Maderno, Michelangelo, Raphael – had a hand in the new design. The square in front of the basilica is the scene of many papal events.

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St Peter’s

vatican museums

3 The Vatican Museums house not only the Sistine Chapel but also the Etruscan Museum, the Egyptian Museum, the Gallery of Tapestries, the Gallery of Maps and the Pinacoteca. There are also separate tours of the Vatican Gardens. Due to the large number of visitors it is recommended that tickets are bought in advance.

For details see website www. museivaticani.va.

Viale Vaticano

From Castel S. Angelo to St Peter’s

Wanted in Rome 143

via della concilazione

This wide thoroughfare connects St Peter’s Square with Castel S. Angelo and was constructed under Mussolini. The street was controversial from the outset as it required the demolition of whole blocks of houses and moving the displaced residents. During major Vatican events, such as canonisations, papal elections or funerals, the street acts as an extension of St Peter’s Square.

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St Peter’s

da benito e GILBERTO

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Just a few steps from St Peter’s, the restaurant has room for just 30 seats and offers a good variety of fish dishes and wide selection of fresh seafood every day, as well as an excellent wine list.

Via del Falco 19

maxela You will find the meat counter at the entrance, wisely presided over by a butcher who recommends the best cuts, to be prepared in four different ways: raw, grilled, fried or pan-baked.

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Borgo Vittorio 92 Tel. 0668804299 www.maxela.it

Bukowski’s Bar

7

A gallery-cafe-Bistrot and wine and cocktail bar located on Borgo Pio, in the centre of Rome a few steps from St Peter’s.

Friendly and cool environment. It is open every days from 16.00 to 02.00.

Via degli Ombrellari 25 Tel. 0664760105

passaguai A meeting place where you can stop at all times of day to relax in a simple and welcoming environment. It is open for lunch, for dinner and after dinner. This is a place where you can listen to good music and even discover new young artists.

Via Pomponio Leto 1 Tel. 06687451358 www.passaguai.it

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St Peter’s

hotel s. anna

9

The lounge and the enchanting courtyard are pleasant places to meet and relax. Hotel St Anna is an upper 3-star hotel and guarantees its guests a charming and comfortable atmosphere.

Borgo Pio 133 Tel. 0668801602 www.hotelsantanna.com

il vantaggio The supermarket in your neighbourhood. You will find all you need. From food to detergents.

Everything in just a few minutes walk from your apartment. You will also find all your favourite brands.

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Largo di Porta Castello

sporting prati

11

This gym offers a wide range of aerobic activities, including pump, GAG, back exercises and stretching, but also martial arts such as taekwondo, bodybuilding and cardio-vascular activity.

There is also a sauna.

Via Germanico 101 Tel. 063219132

lazzaro raffaella This pharmacy sells homeopathic, veterinary and cosmetic products as well as galenic preparations and gluten-free food. Mon-Fri 08.30-19.30, Sat 08.30-13.00.

Borgo Pio 44/a Tel. 0668802889 Wanted in Rome 145

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Areas

TESTACCIO Built in the 19th century to house the workers in the slaughterhouse and the industrial zone of the Ostiense, today Testaccio is a popular residential area. Just across the river from parts of Trastevere it gives a good idea of the real Roman life, and also offers a variety of night life and excellent restaurants. What was once the slaughterhouse has now been transformed into a cultural complex, Mattatoio, with its restored gallery spaces for contemporary art.

About ten minutes by bus to the historic centre, Testaccio is good value for money. Large

Areas

apartment blocks surround internal courtyards and there is still a village feel about the area. The much-loved street market that was once in Piazza Testaccio is now operating out of its new complex in Via Galvani and the square itself has now been beautifully restored with a fountain in the centre. Both buses and the metro connections are excellent and there is also an electric train to Ostia Lido on the coast.

Wanted in Rome 147

Testaccio

This large complex was once part of Rome’s old slaughterhouse designed by Italian architect Gioacchino Ersoch. Today it hosts social and cultural events and is dedicated to a spirit of fair trade, renewable energy and sustainability. It is best known for its summer music festivals and year-round organic food markets and car boot sales.

Largo Dino Frisullo

This is one of the sites of the municipal museum of contemporary art (the other is in Via Nizza in the Salario district).

Housed in the city’s old abattoir, Mattatoio holds cutting-edge contemporary art exhibitions and also contains La Pelanda, an art centre with studios and workshops. Tues-Sun 14.00-20.00.

Mattatoio

CITTÀ DELL’ALTRA ECONOMIA

1

Piazza Orazio Giustiniani 4

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Testaccio

MONTE DEI COCCI

3 Also known as Monte Testaccio, this man-made mound of ancient, broken Roman amphorae has provided valuable insights into the economy of Imperial Rome.

Its role as a ancient Roman dump ceased around 260 AD and it was later used by the popes for Good Friday ceremonies to symbolise the hill of Golgotha in Jerusalem.

Via del Monte Testaccio

Via Galvani

Wanted in Rome 149

4

MERCATO TESTACCIO

This modern, covered market was opened in 2012 following the demolition of the old openair market in Piazza Testaccio a few blocks away. The 5,000-sqm premises sells fruit and veg, meat and fish, as well as clothes and household items. It is located near MACRO and can be accessed from Via Alessandro Volta, Via Galvani, Via Ghiberti and Via Beniamino Franklin. 06.00-14.00. Sun closed.

Testaccio

DA FELICE

5

A Roman trattoria frequented mainly

by Romans and visitors in the know.

Excellent amatriciana and cacio e pepe.

The abbacchio (lamb) is excellent as well. Don’t forget to try the home-made tiramisù in a glass.

Via Mastro Giorgio 29 Tel. 065746800 www.feliceatestaccio.com

PIZZERIA NUOVO MONDO Here the pizza is bigger and thicker, with standard toppings such as scamorza and speck, aubergine, cherry tomatoes and buffalo mozzarella; you can even personalise the ingredients for no extra cost.

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Via Amerigo Vespucci 15 Tel. 065746004

L’OASI DELLA BIRRA

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You will find rare grain beers and some Scottish brands too. At the Oasis of Beer you can also order all kinds of salami, exceptional local and foreign cheeses plus soups, goulash, pies, sandwiches and salads.

Piazza Testaccio 38 Tel. 065746122

KHETUMBAR For more than 15 years Ketumbar has been at the centre of Rome’s night life.

The atmosphere and the surroundings, the lighting and music are designed to make Ketumbar a special meeting place.

Via Galvani 24 Tel. 0657305338 www.ketumbar.it

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Testaccio

B&B TESTACCIO

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The formula is the classic bed and breakfast with plenty of originality and atmosphere. Unique, welcoming, stylish and clean.

Piazza S. Maria Liberatrice Tel. 0657289562

TESTACCIO MARKET The new covered market offers good quality meat, fish, fruit and vegetables at excellent prices. Also a pastry shop, a kitchen shop, flowers, books and shoe stalls.

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Via Galvani and Via Alessandro Volta

C.S. AVENTINO

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With some 40 years of experience, C.S. Aventino has high professional and international standards. There is a 25-metre swimming pool as well as a sauna and a gym.

Via Marmorata 14 Tel. 065740637 www.csaventino.it

FARMACIA DE ANGELIS This pharmacy has existed for decades and offers gluten-free products, galenic preparations, homeopathy and veterinary products. Also a section dedicated to perfumery and to health care. Mon-Fri 08.30-19.30.

Via Marmorata 133 Tel. 065740941 Wanted in Rome 151

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Areas

TRASTEVERE Trastevere used to be defined as the most Roman of all the districts, but not many real Romans live here any longer. Sandwiched on a narrow strip of land between Monteverde Vecchio and the Tiber, it is as picturesque as the historic centre. Once a favourite location for foreigners living in Rome, recently it has become too expensive and too crowded. There are still numerous good restaurants and night-spots but they are being squeezed out by pizzerie and ice cream parlours. The public transport is good so you could do without a car,

Areas

especially as parking is almost impossible. There are still some street markets, although the one in Piazza S. Cosimato has lost its local charm since it was modernised. Along Porta Portese, which skirts the Tiber, you will find endless accessories for cars, motorbikes and bicycles but there are few real bargains now at the famous Sunday market of the same name.

Wanted in Rome 153

Trastevere

BASILICA S. MARIA IN TRASTEVERE

1 One of the oldest churches in Rome, the basilica’s construction is said to have been ordered

by Pope Callisto I in the fourth century. The church underwent numerous major renovations over the centuries and is most noted for its coffered gold ceiling which is embellished with ornate carvings and paintings.

Piazza S. Maria in Trastevere

Largo Cristina di Svezia 24

ORTO BOTANICO

Located by the prison in Trastevere, this garden was originally established in 1883 when the Corsini family donated its garden to the Italian state. Now run by La Sapienza university, it hosts over 3,500 species of plants and includes Japanese gardens and a “Scent-and-Touch” garden for visually impaired visitors. Sun closed.

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Trastevere

PALAZZO CORSINI

3 The national collection of ancient art is housed in this palace built by Rome’s Corsini family in the mid18th century. The gallery is located on the first floor and contains works by artists such as Carracci, Caravaggio, Poussin, Guido Reni and Rubens. One of Rome’s few museums open on Mondays.

Via della Lungara 10

Via della Lungara 230

Wanted in Rome 155

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VILLA FARNESINA

This 16th-century Renaissance villa was commissioned by Agostino China, the treasurer of Pope Julius II, and designed

by Sienese architect Baldassarre Peruzzi. Towards the end of the 16th century the Farnese family purchased the villa, hence the Farnesina name. It has frescoes by artists including Raphael, Sebastiano del Piombo and Giulio Romano.

Trastevere

DAR POETA

4

Dar Poeta is a popular pizzeria. The environment is lively and the pizzas are made from quality natural ingredients.

The menu includes good bruschette, try the one with the ciauscolo, a soft salami from the Marche, and a wide variety of salads.

Vicolo del Bologna 46 Tel. 065880516

ENOTECA FERRARA

FRENI E FRIZIONI

6

Charming, different from the touristy places in the area. Slightly more classy, but at pretty much same prices as its neighbouring restaurants. Easy to miss but totally worth a visit. Good selection of wines. Italian tapas from the bar. Friendly staff.

Piazza Trilussa 41 Tel. 0658333920 www.enotecaferrara.it

5

FrenieFrizioni is cool. A few steps from Piazza Trilussa, it is simply furnished with salvaged furniture, but is elegant and welcoming with popular aperitivo in the evenings.

Via del Politeama 4 Tel. 0658334210 www.freniefrizioni.com

OMBREROSSE A wine bar and a cafeteria known for its music (live jazz on Friday evening).

Ombre Rosse offers a selection of meats and cheeses, salads and other cold dishes, excellent wine cellar and a large selection of liqueurs and spirits.

Piazza S. Egidio 12 Tel. 0697616676

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Trastevere

RESIDENZA BELLI INN

8

Residenza Belli’s rooms are comfortable and well-kept, with air conditioning, minibars and WiFi. Residenza Belli’s friendly reception staff will give you free tourist maps on arrival.

Via Goffredo Mameli 47 Tel. 0645428696 www.residenzabelli.it

MERCATO RIONALE This market in Trastevere is a busy outdoor food and flower market where customers can buy fresh products or just watch the locals shopping and bargaining with stall owners. The market is open Mon-Sat from 06.0013.00.

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Piazza S. Cosimato

L’ALBERO E LA MANO

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A series of activities and services including shiatsu and massage. Here you can practice various types of yoga and follow related courses.

V. Pelliccia 3 Tel. 065812871 www.lalberoelamano.it

Farmacia Dr Rellecati This pharmacy, founded in 1734, sells homeopathic products, dermocosmetics, galenic preparations and products for coeliacs. The pharmacist speaks good English. Mon-Sat 08.3020.30.

Piazza di S. Maria in Trastevere Tel. 065803776 Wanted in Rome 157

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A world class education in the heart of Rome St. Stephen’s International Day & Boarding School

www.sssrome.it

#4 St. Stephen’s School Rome Via Aventina 3, 00153 Rome, Italy tel: +39 065750605 / email: ststephens@sssrome.it

www.sssrome.it

Fully accredited by the Council of International Schools and the New England Association of Schools & Colleges

USEFUL NUMBERS 118 112 800130336 115 1515 800900999 060606 0667691 113 803116 800867035 0622101

amBuLance CARABINIERI eLectricity and water fauLts (acEA) fire Brigade forestry corPs (forest fires) gas LeaKs (itaLgas-eni) municiPaLity of rome municiPaLity PoLice POLICe road rescue ruBBish (ama) TRAFFIC POLICE

Wanted in Rome 159

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YOUR PRIVATE HOSPITALS IN ROME

Companies certified with ISO 9001:2008 Quality Management System

Via A. Bertoloni, 34 00197 Rome

+39 06 80220.1 Wanted in Rome clinicamaterdei.eu 161

Via V. Tiberio, 46 00191 Rome

+39 06 33094.1 clinicapaideia.eu

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