Wanderlust October/November 2012

Wanderlust Issue 131 (October/November 2012) Bolivia’s best landscapes • Malawi on safari • New Zealand by bike • Taiwan • Britain’s Dorset Coast • Pocket guides: Buenos Aires, Madeira, Petra

travel I adventure I CULTURE The travel magazine that takes you further

October/November 2012 www.wanderlust.co.uk

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Bolivia at its best Discover salt flats, festivals and flamingos Laos

Explore South-East Asia’s secret gem

Malawi

New Zealand

Spot lions on the new Big 5 safari

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The North Island by bike – it’s easier than you think

Iceland Buenos Aires Taiwan Madeira Petra 12/9/12 12:45:03

Contents October/November 2012 • issue 131

360°

From the road

6 | World in pictures Curious penguins, the thrill of a whitewater kayak ride at night and the steam train in Agra get us snap happy!

12 | Shortcuts A world’s worth of travel news 14 | Go now! Last minute trips – read this first 16 | World Diary Global must-see events – from conker championships to hot air balloon fiestas 18 | Departures Hiking trips you have try now 20 | Hilary Bradt talks... reasons to love rain

35 | Snapshots You make us jealous with photos from all your fantastic escapades!

36 | Letters etc... Emails, blogs, photos and

chat from readers around the world. This issue: Getting rescued by Rastas, sex and the solo traveller, thoughtful tipping talk and Brits abroad

40 | Just Back From… Fresh advice straight from myWanderlust: New York City, The Gambia, Costa Rica, and Singapore – the way you saw it

66 Iceland

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Cover feature

22 Bolivia

© Madeira p135

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Features 22 | Bolivia

Gemma Bowes discovers the flamingos, salt flats and prepares to join the party in the carnival celebrations in Sajama and Uyuni

42 | Malawi

On the trail of lions in Africa’s rising safari destination – now boasting all of the Big 5

56 | Taiwan

Alex Robinson jumps on a motor scooter to check out this stunning but little-visited island

66 | Iceland

We sent Clare Wilson down into a volcano to discover what really lies beneath our feet

82 | Laos

You voted it the best city in the world and Lyn Hughes went to investigate the delights of Luang Prabang along with Laos other hidden gems

98 | New Zealand

Check out the North Island on two wheels to discover its charms – Chris Moss did and loved it!

112 | Dorset Coast

Sarah Baxter stretches her legs on the South West Coast Path for great views and tasty food!

Buenos Aires p133

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THE FUTURE Like this map?

MAPPING To buy a similar wall map, COMPANY visit www.futuremaps.co.uk 004-005_Contents_SO.indd 4

12/9/12 09:12:33

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Navigator

POCKE T GUID ES The bits

Arrivals

73 | How to... dive responsibly, eat Dim Sum,

escape Piranha and read a Chinese Temple 75 | Gear Get the right kit for a cycling trip 76 | Health Dr Jane helps you minimise your risk of contracting an disease around wildlife 78 | Photo tips Don’t miss a thing! Steve Davey advises how to capture a night out 80 | Q&A Your questions answered. This issue: UK winter short break, learning to dive – Caribbean style, the current risk of bird flu

of the guide book you

133 Buenos

Pocket Guides

123 | Books Simon Garfield tells us why maps

are so important to the way we see the world; plus The Worst Journey in the World 125 | Guides Best language apps to help you speak like a local on the road... wherever you are 127 | What’s on: events Wildlife Photo of the year, film festivals, a celebration of whales and dolphins, Wanderlust Guide Awards and more...

128 | What’s on: screen Exclusive interview with On the Road film director Walter Salles

133 | Buenos Aires, Argentina Explore this frenetic city as soon as you get off the plane

really need

aires

P 133 First P 135 Short24 hours Buen os Aires Find your P 137 Trave Break Made feet l Icon Petra ira Enjoy hill walks and in Argentina’s excitin Wander horserides g through on this Portu capital Jordan’ s moun guese isle tain-hewn valley

See31

135 madeira

p1

137 peTra

135 | Madeira, Portugal Venture off the tourist trail in the surprising wild places on this island 137 | Petra, Jordan Check out this classic Wonder of the World, on the 200 year anniversary of its re-discovery

112 Dorset Coast

© Petra p137

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56

Taiwan

82 Laos ©

42 Malawi

98 New

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Zealand

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360 1

I I World in pictures I

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India

Taj and train Photographer Steve McCurry “With the exquisite beauty of the Taj Mahal caught in the golden light of a new day, this antiquated steam engine rolls steadily towards the end of its working life. The warm tones of the rising sun seem to add a patina of dignity to the ponderous engine, an impression that is only accentuated by the timelessness of the building in the distance.”

So said award-winning American photographer Steve McCurry when he took this image back in 1983. This November it will get a well deserved re-airing when it features in a new compilation of his most striking images.

Steve McCurry’s new book, Steve McCurry – The Iconic Photographs, is published by Phaidon (£39.95; phaidon.com )

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planet

party

In Bolivia, both the landscapes and the locals know how to put on a good show. Travel off-beat and off-season for the finest performance

Words Gemma Bowes | Pictures Anna Batchelor Wanderlust October/November 2012 | 23

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Bolivia Footnotes Vital Statistics

Capital: La Paz (commercial); Sucre (judicial) Population: 10 million Time: GMT-4 International dialling code: +591 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: Bolivianos (B$), currently B$11 to the UK£; US dollars are also widely used. ATMs are easy to find in large towns and cities, but not villages.

When to go Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec ■ Summer, but also rainy season. Great to experience Carnival (Feb) and the mirror effect of the salt flats, but getting around can be more difficult as some roads flood. At high altitude it is still very cold.

■ Winter, but dry season, so easier to travel – the most popular time to visit. On the Altiplano it is hot by day, very cold at night.

Health & safety The main problem is altitude sickness, especially if you fly straight into La Paz. Altitude sickness may be felt anywhere over 2,500m; you may feel dizzy and lethargic or, more severely, you may feel or be sick. Don’t do too much on arrival, drink lots of water and avoid alcohol. Locals combat it by drinking coca mate, tea made from coca leaves, or chewing coca leaves. Don’t drink the tap water.

Further reading & information Lonely Planet (2010) and Rough Guide (2012) have good guides to Bolivia.

Bolivia in Focus (Interlink, 2010) by Robert Werner gives a historical and cultural overview.

Marching Powder (Pan, 2004) by Rusty Young tells the tale of Thomas McFadden, a British drug smuggler imprisoned in La Paz’s San Pedro jail; Thomas let tourists visit him, and became infamous as a tour guide.

LATA (www.lata.org) – the Latin America Travel Association

More online Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/131 for links to more content Archive articles

Track jaguar in the Bolivian Amazon – issue 70, Mar 05 Altitude sickness: what you need to know – issue 87, April/May 07 Top sites around Titicaca – online, Jul 12

Planning guides Bolivia guide

Party dresses Women in Sajama village take part in their annual carnival

The trip The author travelled with High Lives (020 8144 2629, www.highlives.co.uk), a new tour operator that specialises in Latin American travel, especially Bolivia. Its 11-day Sublime Summits itinerary, taking in La Paz, Lake Titicaca, Sajama and Uyuni, and including transfers and 4WD trips, costs from £1,450pp, excluding flights.

Getting there There are no direct flights between the UK and Bolivia. LAN (0800 977 6100, www.lan.com) flies Heathrow-La Paz, via Madrid and Lima, from around £900 return. Journey time is around 32-34 hours.

From late November Air Europa (aireuropa.com) will fly from Gatwick to Santa Cruz de la Sierra via Madrid for around £1,000 return.

Getting around Most travellers use buses and coaches. Tourist coaches are slightly better

quality, with reclinable seats; public buses, called camiónes, colectivos or micros depending on size, are slower and not so comfortable but can be more fun (for shorter journeys at least).

For expeditions across Uyuni’s salt flats and into the desert, book a 4WD excursion from Uyuni, or book ahead in La Paz. Taxis are cheap: even a long journey of several hours can cost just £20-30.

Cost of travel Prices are very low in Bolivia; it’s cheaper than neighbouring countries.

In La Paz you could eat out for a few pounds, or spend £20-30 on a top-end meal.

The greatest expenses will be extra excursions such as 4WD adventures; keep costs down by joining other travellers.Tips of a few Bolivianos are very welcome. You can haggle a little in the markets but generally prices don’t come down much and it’s rude to try to drive a hard bargain.

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Snapshots | Letters etc | Experiences | Just Back From…

From The Road Letters, tips, photos & exploits from you, our endlessly adventurous readers

“Dolgellau, Wales – wish I was still there!” Val Yellow

“Cape Fligely at Franz Josef Land, in Russia.”

Louise Markus

“Taking a camel ride across Erg Chebbi sand dunes near Merzouga in Morocco.” Tengku Zahasman

Snapshots

Been somewhere cool?

Send us your snapshots to FromTheRoad@ wanderlust.co.uk

“This peak in Ladakh may have been a difficult drive, but it was like Piccadilly Circus at the top!” Linda Chapple

“Temples at Abu Simbel, Egypt, in temps in excess of 50°C!” Janet and Tony Harvel

“Mt Cotopaxi, Ecuador taken just before hiking up to the refuge.”

Ian Huddart “Feeling rather cold at 7am, about 5,000m high at the Rock Tree in Bolivia.” Lesley and Peter Galvanoni Wanderlust October/November 2012 | 35

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Letters etc

Online at www.wanderlust.co.uk/mywanderlust

8 Email letters & photos to fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk * Mail Wanderlust, 1 Leworth Place, Windsor SL4 1EB Twitter @wanderlustmag Facebook www.facebook.com/wanderlusttravelmagazine

Winear! tg tos, greayour phom ail:

ant s–e We w nd letter ad@ a o s r tale romthe t.co.uk f erlus wand

“Another amazing Zanzibar sunset, from the north-west coast of the main island.” Jamie Buckley

*

Eyes opened to new Indian ideas

>

Thank you for your article ‘Trekking across the Roof of the World’ (September 2012 issue), it has made me completely reconsider my travel plans. My boyfriend and I plan to travel to

India next year to work for six months, we had originally planned to visit the beautiful beaches of Goa during our time off. Martin Symington’s article has convinced me that Darjeeling should be number one on our places to visit.

Trekking in Darjeeling will expose us to such a diverse region with unique, breathtaking scenery and an opportunity to ride on the ‘Toy Train’ – which I’m looking forward to the most!

You’ve opened my eyes to

Winning letter Inspiring tales at Adventure Travel Film Fest!

*

I have just returned from the most inspiring and informative weekend at the Adventure Travel Film Festival. Thank you for supporting them and advising us to attend.

The programme was packed with films and presentations that were so diverse; there was something of interest to everyone.

Being a recycled teenager of 71 years, I was amazed at the number of ladies of middle age and older who are regularly having the most

amazing adventures across the world on bicycles and motorbikes, often travelling alone. Their stories came out around the camp fire or over the dinner table, a bonus on top of the ‘official’ stories... Spread the word – next year’s programme is being planned!

Brenda Boulton, Somerset via email Glad you enjoyed it! Anyone been to events we've recommended? Let us know: email fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk – Ed

a corner of India I had never considered visiting before now.

I can’t wait to go!

Jessica Crisp, Norfolk

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Visa piccy hassles?

I do not know why you say that getting the 50x50mm

Wi

n!

KEEN boots & Wanderlust goodies!

Each issue our favourite contribution wins a haul of Wanderlust gear and KEEN boots. Congrats to Brenda.

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Iceland

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Journey to the centre of the earth Jules Verne fiction becomes reality as Iceland’s newest attraction allows a lucky few to plunge into a volcano...

“

Words by Clare Wilson

elcome to my home.” Árni B Stefánsson’s voice echoed out of the shadows, the sound bouncing loudly off the rocky walls. Despite having just been lowered 120m into the magma chamber of Thrihnukagigur, a volcano 30 minutes from capital Reykjavík, his dry tones greeted us as calmly as if we’d arrived in his front room.

It was midsummer’s eve 1974 when Árni was first lowered into Thrihnukagigur’s unknown depths on a rope held by ten of his friends. Not knowing if he’d choke on lingering carbon dioxide, they’d agreed on a simple ‘three tugs if you’re alive’ signal for him to send up when he reached the bottom.

Once there, he had just ten minutes to explore by headtorch before being dragged back up and out into the midnight sun.

A doctor by profession, Árni is also a mountaineer and Iceland’s most respected speleologist (a person who scientifically studies caves) in his free time. After 17 further descents to survey the chamber, eight years of serious planning, four powerful halogen lamps and one cablelift rigged up over the cavern mouth, Árni made sure my own descent – exactly 38 years after his first – was considerably easier than his.

W

Reaching a peak

Going underground The view from Thrihnukagigur’s floor

Reykjavík’s deserted Blue Mountain ski resort seemed out-of-place in the eerie brightness of the midsummer evening.

However, Bjorn Ólafsson (Everest summiteer, and one of the men that originally held Árni’s rope) fitted the surroundings perfectly. He cut a curiously epic figure as he lead us on the 45-minute tramp to Base Camp – across the craggy basalt outcrops and pillowy thick moss of the lava field, and over the rift where Europe and America divide.

This is the first year visitors have been able to enter Thrihnukagigur, so Base Camp is a temporary affair: a portacabin 50m from the summit and six discretely placed portaloos. As we were given a brief lesson on Iceland’s geological history, a thrill of anticipation spread through me – as warming as the two bowls of the kjötsúpa (Icelandic meat soup); I was eager to don a hard hat and scramble into my safety harness. From there, boot-prints and a flag-marked path led us to the summit. > Wanderlust October/November 2012 | 67

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How to | Skills | Gear | Health | Photo tips | Q&A

Navigator

“Infections passed from wild animals or livestock cause 2.2 million deaths a year” Know your conditions, p76

Travel need-to-knows, from taking party photos to dodging piranhas

Take my advice

How to dive sustainably

Lauren Arthur, Resident Marine Biologist at the new Dusit Thani Maldives, helps you explore the ocean without harming it

1

Avoid sunscreen When protecting yourself against UV rays try to avoid lathering yourself, as chemicals will leak into the ocean. Instead, wear full-length suits or long board-shorts and rash vests. If you feel sunscreen is essential, use biodegradable, eco-friendly ones.

2

Don’t touch anything In the Maldives, we have venomous stonefish, scorpionfish and lionfish, which are often camouflaged. By keeping your hands streamlined by your side, you are helping protect the environment as well as yourself.

3

Learn more When people understand what is below the ocean’s surface, they’re more likely to try to protect it. Divers can work to increase public awareness by using their dives to gather data; try participating in fish-counting or coral-monitoring programmes such as FishWatch or CoralWatch.

4

Dive well Whether you frog kick or dolphin kick, it’s important you swim streamlined and away from the reef to avoid destroying it. If you kick the coral, you can kill it. If you kick the sandy bottom, you can stir up sediment, which smothers coral.

5

Be respectful Avoid standing on coral: it’s a living animal and collectively reefs provide a habitat for a third of marine fishes. Be aware of where your fins are at all times. If you need to rest, lean backwards and rest by floating. Inflate your BCD (buoyancy control device) and you will naturally float on the surface without exerting any energy.

6

Don’t litter There are 18,000 pieces of plastic litter floating on every square km of the ocean, killing one million seabirds and 100,000 turtles and marine mammals each year. Ultimately, six million tonnes of debris enters the world’s oceans annually.

Dusit Thani

For more information on the five-star Dusit Thani, visit www.dusit.com/dusit-thani/maldives

Sinking with style It’s very easy to dive responsibly and still get an amazing experience

Did you know? How long it takes litter to break down in the ocean: ] Paper tickets: 2-4 wks ] Cigarette butts: 1-5yrs ] Plastic bags: 10-20yrs ] Plastic bottles: 450yrs ] Glass bottles: 1 million years Wanderlust October/November 2012 | 73

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Navigator Skills

DANGEROUS 5 most ANIMALS

1. Dogs – can harbour rabies, leishmania, echinococcus, gastroenteritis, Q fever 2. Pigs – can harbour cysticercosis, gastroenteritis 3. Cows – can harbour brucellosis, TB, gastroenteritis, listeria, Q fever 4. Rats – can harbour leptospirosis, gastroenteritis, Q fever, various haemorrhagic fevers 5. Monkeys – can harbour rabies, green monkey disease, ebola

Man’s worst friends?

With 2.2 million deaths a year caused by animal-to-human transmitted diseases, you need to be wary of wildlife, says Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth responsible. Also, zoonoses seem to have a particular talent for causing terrifying outbreaks of supposedly new diseases: the mixing of animal and human microbes can allow genetic shifts that cause physiological havoc – just witness the bird- and swine-flu outbreaks. It is wise to check for outbreak information before any travel: visit www. fitfortravel.nhs.uk, www.nathnac.org and www.cdc.gov/travel.

The report found that 13 zoonoses are responsible for 2.2 million human deaths every year; many of these are diseases of the poor and debilitated. However, of these 13, eight not uncommonly threaten travellers too: some often make travellers ill; others are rare but, if contracted, horrific.

Zoonotic gastroenteritis What is it? Diarrhoea, vomiting and the quease – caused by various microbes.

Salmonella causes explosive painful diarrhoea

for around ten days; giardia induces foul gaseous emissions for many weeks.

Where do you find it? Anywhere animals roam into food preparation areas, or where dogs are allowed to lick plates.

The lowdown: Oh so common – but well-informed travellers don’t need to suffer.

What you can do: Ensure all food you eat is piping hot. Travel with a thermos of hot water, which will allow you to scald plates, cutlery and cups before use. Take only pasteurised milk products.

Leptospirosis What is it? One of those nasty diseases with rather non-specific symptoms, including fever, aches and fatigue; can lead on to jaundice and make people very ill.

Where do you find it? Anywhere there are rats and water.

The lowdown: There have been outbreaks among adventure travellers.

Dreamstime; Simon Howarth

A

new report, commissioned by the Department of International Development, has just examined the extent of zoonotic diseases – infections that pass from livestock or wild animals to humans.

Disease patterns can be erratic and unpredictable, and the majority of infections are ‘gifts’ from other people. However, when disease-causing microbes are passed from an animal to a human, the human is unlikely to have any kind of immunological experience of the disease and may become seriously ill.

Some of us are immune to the microbes that we meet via animals. A good example of this is toxoplasmosis, a disease that is often transmitted to sheep farmers or cat owners, and generally only causes trouble if first acquired in pregnancy.

However, others are more problematic.

Rabies, for instance, is disastrous for both the human victim and the animal

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Laos 1

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secret caves and friendly I Elephants, 1 faces, plus – offically –the world’s Top City I 1

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Fly UK-Luang Prabang via Bangkok or Hanoi; flight time from 18hours 1 1

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Nov-Jan, for the best weather and clear air

The sublime

Slow boating The latte-hued Nam Ou River wends below cliffs opposite the Pak Ou Caves

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to the

ridiculous

Lovely Luang Prabang is rightly popular with travellers, but Laos’ most moving site sees just five visitors a day. Do both urges Lyn Hughes

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New zealand routes for all riders Are you a gentle pedaller? Tough offroader? Somewhere in the middle? The North Island has a super cycle for everyone...

Words Chris Moss

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New Zealand North IslandFootnotes

When to go Jan

Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

■ Southern hemisphere summer: the driest, warmest time to visit – and the most popular: hotels get booked up and prices are higher.

■ Winter is wet and cold, but great for skiing; some bike trails are closed due to snow.

■ The shoulder seasons of spring (Oct-Nov) and autumn (Apr-May) are lovely – the weather is often fair, popular sites are less busy and airfares are lower.

Health & safety Cycling always involves some wear and tear: take a first-aid kit and blister plasters. No special vaccinations required.

The UK NHS has a reciprocal agreement with the NZ health service but it is advisable to take out good health insurance: see www.wanderlustinsurance.co.uk.

Further reading & information www.newzealand.com Official tourism site nzbybike.com Comprehensive bike info www.doc.govt.nz Department of Conservation (for NZ’s National Parks) www.nzcycletrail.com The New Zealand Cycle Trail site Cycling New Zealand (Lonely Planet, 2009)

by Scott Kennedy

More online Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/131 for links to more content: Archive articles

Mt Cook climb – issue 108, Dec 09/Jan 10 The beginner’s guide to cycle touring – issue 106, Oct 09 Milford Sound – issue 92, Dec 07/Jan 08

Planning guides

New Zealand travel guide Cycling & mountain-biking trip guide

The trip The author flew with Cathay Pacific (020 8834 8888, www.cathaypacific.com) from London to Auckland via Hong Kong.

Typical economy returns from Europe cost from £1,205; journey time is 20-30 hours, depending on stopover.

Other flights are available via Opodo (www.opodo.co.uk) from around £1,000.

SOUTH PACIFIC OCEAN

5

Campervans are available, in a range of sizes, from Britz campers (+64 9 255 3910; www.britz.co.nz). Hire costs from NZ$451 (£231) for ten days.

See www.newzealand.com/uk/plan/ holiday-parks for info on campsites.

Snapper Park (Hawke’s Bay; snapperpark. co.nz) is 15 minutes’ bike ride from Napier; pitches from NZ$18 (£9). Whanganui River Top 10 Holiday Park (www.wrivertop10.co. nz) has pitches on the riverbank; powered sites from NZ$42 (£21).

Bike hire & tours To hire a bike in Auckland before you head out to the interior, Natural High (+64 9 257 4673, www.naturalhigh.co.nz) is conveniently close to the airport. Hybrid bikes from NZ$154 (£78) a week; mountain bikes from NZ$280 (£142) a week.

Coastal Wine Cycles in Te Awanga, Hawke’s Bay (+64 6 875 0302, www. winecycles.co.nz), rents out single-speed retro bikes with baskets and comfy seats from NZ$40 (£20) a day (10.30am to dusk).

Fish Bike, in Napier (+64 6 833 6979, www.fishbike.co.nz), rents bikes from NZ$15/50 (£8/25) an hour/day.

Bridge to Nowhere’s (+64 6 385 4622, www.bridgetonowhere.co.nz) two-day Mangapurua Track package, including transfers, food and two nights’ accommodation, costs NZ$285 (£144); day trips NZ$135 (£68). Whanganui River Adventures (whanganuiriveradventures. com) also offers the ride.

1

Auckland land

TASMAN SEA

2 Waitomo aitomo

Getting around

300km

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Bay of Plenty

Hamilton Rotoruaa Rotoru

Pureora Forest Park Whanganui

Taupo TTaup aupo

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6

Lake Taupo Hawke’s Bay

Napier

3 WELLINGTON

North Island Highlights 1. Waiheke Island Full of wineries (some with al fresco restaurants) and small art galleries, Waiheke (waiheke.aucklandnz.com) is just a short boat ride from Auckland, and a great place to wind down after the long flight.

Don’t miss the magnificent sculpture park at Connells Bay (www.connellsbay.co.nz).

2. Waitomo Caves Hike in, float through or abseil into these subterranean, glow-worm-lit chambers; close to the Timber Trail and an easy stopover (www.waitomo.com).

3. Art deco Napier Tour by vintage car or on foot to learn about how Napier was rebuilt after the 1931 earthquake (www.artdeconapier.com).

4. Rotorua Detour to the self-styled Maori cultural capital to learn about indigenous cooking, carving and weaving (www.rotoruanz.com).

5. Auckland Don’t ignore the big city (below): it’s the nation’s yachting hub, cultural centre and there’s fabulous food and coffee; Zest Food tours will open the place up if it’s your first visit (www.zestfoodtours.co.nz).

What to pack Take high-SPF sunblock; durable sporty sunglasses; light, outdoors shoes for biking and walking; cycling shorts and gloves; helmet (take your own rather than hire); a tough, droppable water bottle. ■

Dreamstime

VITAL STATISTICS

Capital: Wellington Population: 4.4 million Language: English, Maori Time: GMT+12 (GMT+13 end Sept-early Apr) International dialling code: +64 Visas: Not required by UK nationals Money: New Zealand dollar (NZ$), currently around NZ$1.95 to the UK£. Foreign credit cards are widely accepted; ATMs available in towns and cities. Tipping is optional; leave 10% for good service.

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1

1

Dorset Coast

I Grand 1 geology, ancient hillforts and comely linked by an epic 138km walk 1 I coves,

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Train to Axminster for bus to Lyme Regis; I Ibuses link Poole-Bournemouth train station 1 I 1 Year-round; best Apr-Jun & Sept-Oct I

Great British Escape

dorset coast

Walking the entire South West Coast Path will see you clocking up nearly four times the ascent of Everest. Sarah Baxter shows us a smaller section that’s still big on views…

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t’s not a good sign when a burly man walking six whippets in the rain warns you that the trail ahead is “a bit interesting”. Indeed, he was not wrong. As we advanced eastwards under glowering skies, the lonesome coastguard cottages on White Nothe headland looming ghostly from the mist, the terrain became more testing – though more dramatic for it.

Bulbous chalky mounds undulated into the murk, an earthy ebb and flow, as daunting as it was spectacular. Our calves screeched on the ups, our knees on the downs, and murderous gusts seemed intent on pushing us over the precipice: it was a long way to fall.

We were bedraggled yet exhilarated as we started our final descent into Lulworth Cove, many tough miles later. Here, the path widened and, for the first time in hours, we had company – streams of unsuitably shod day-trippers toiling up to see the rock arch of Durdle Door. It was here that we overheard a sodden young boy talking to his Mum. “What are they doing?” he asked her, pointing at us in our Gore-Tex armour and hefty backpacks.

“I think they’re walking the whole coast path,” she replied.

He considered this for a moment and, despite the rain and the mud and the howling wind, declared, “One day, I want to do that.”

I

Long way to go The South West Coast Path is Britain’s longest National Trail, hugging the shore from Minehead to Poole for 1,014km. Five years ago, I’d fallen for it: for its untramped wildness between tourist honeypots, its epic oscillations, surf fizz and basking sharks. I’d spent the following years returning to work my way along its length in different stages.

Now my boyfriend and I were walking the >

What goes up...

The calves scream on the haul up Golden Cap, the south coast’s highest point

‘The coast lays bare 185 million years of earth-inthe-making like geologic Vienetta’ Wanderlust October/November 2012 | 113

112-118_SW Coast_SO.indd 113

11/9/12 11:28:31