TransIndus customer magazine

JOURNEYS The newsletter of

Kerala

Highlights of the south

Michael Palin

–The India Travel Company | Issue

India’s best festivals

Diwali and beyond

Talks exclusively about his recent trip to Orissa

Travel in style

Slow boat down the Ganges, luxury train through Rajasthan

01_TransIndus_thv4.indd 1

28/1/11 12:55:36

JOURNEYS The newsletter of

Welcome

to the very first TransIndus Newsletter.

We aim to give you a taste of the latest travel opportunities in-and-around India and Asia – possibilities which are growing at an exhilarating pace. Regions that were once difficult to access are opening up with the help of ambitious new railway and cruise journeys, as well as an exponential growth in air travel. New hotels are springing up and roads that were once considered unusable are looking a tad different.

While the traditional holiday spots of Rajasthan and Goa flourish, newer destinations like Kerala, and the wildlife parks of central India have established themselves in the 21 years that TransIndus has been operating. Many new regions still await exploration, such as Orissa, where we had the pleasure of sending Michael Palin (turn the page to read about his experiences).

Further afield, Bhutan, the last Shangri La, and the Golden Land of Burma are now opening.

Considering that these are two of our personal favourite destinations, we can’t wait to share these special places with you.

Venturing into newer regions comes with the responsibility of ensuring that the local community benefits while their culture and ecosystem remains unaffected. We do our bit by supporting local schools, water and community projects in association with The Travel Foundation, Tourism Concern, Jeevika Trust and Jaipur Virasat.

We hope you enjoy reading this newsletter as much as we’ve enjoyed putting it together for you!

Amrit & Hayi Singh Amrit & Harji Singh Company Directors

Journeys Issue 1 | Published February 2011 For TransIndus: Anthony Ryan Editor: Dan Linstead Art director: Graham Berridge Editorial team: Sarah Baxter, Tom Hawker, Hazel Plush A TransIndus/Wanderlust collaboration 75 St Mary’s Road and the Old Fire Station, Ealing, London W5 5RH ABTA V0705, ATOL 3429, AITO 5131 For changes of address call 020 8566 3739 Design: © Wanderlust Publications Ltd, 2011.

PO Box 1832, Windsor SL4 1YT 01753 620426, www.wanderlust.co.uk Photos: TransIndus; Chris Caldicott/Getty; Christopher Pillitz/Getty Kerala illustration: Scott Jessop Printing: Woodford Litho Ltd, Freebournes Rd, Witham, Essex CM8 3UH All rights reserved. Reproduction in any manner is strictly forbidden without prior written consent of the publishers. No responsibility for incorrect information will be accepted.

The views expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the publishers.

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 02-03_TransIndus_thv6.indd 2

28/1/11 16:49:18

Hidden gems

For over 13 centuries, the sandstone walls of Gwalior Fort have loomed over the undulating, history-rich local countryside. One of the biggest strongholds in India, its imposing walls are matched only by its formidable splendour, leading it to be described as ‘the pearl in the necklace of the forts of Hind’.

Gwalior is one of the many jewels in TransIndus’ Hidden Gems of Central India tour, a 16-day journey personally overseen by company-founder Harji Singh. Priced at £3,995, the tour includes: direct international flights on Jet Airways; the accommodation on full board basis; internal travel; local escorts; monument fees and tips.

For more details, head to www.transindus.co.uk

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 02-03_TransIndus_thv6.indd 3

28/1/11 11:08:27

The doyen of TV travellers chose TransIndus for his recent trip to India – but it wasn’t just a holiday, he tells Amrit Singh

04-05_TransIndus_thv6.indd 4

Photograph: Rankin

Palin’s India

28/1/11 11:59:36

INTERVIEW

I

“

’ve enjoyed writing my travel books enormously, but I feel it’s time to give the imagination a bit of exercise.” So said Michael Palin – TV traveller, Royal Geographical Society President, national treasure – when news emerged in 2009 that he was working on his second novel (his first, Hemingway’s Chair, appeared in 1995).

This time around, Palin’s famous, Python-esque imagination has taken him to India. Following on from last year’s sold-out Q&A conducted in conjuction with TransIndus at the Nehru Centre, we helped send Palin on a visit to the east Indian state of Orissa, a region where ancient Adivasi (indigenous) cultures are rubbing up against major industry.

Some months later, trip completed, Michael sat down with us to tell us about his Indian experience.

Was it the novel that took you to India?

Yes, I completed the first draft just before Christmas, and now I’ll be looking at it with the help of my editor – so far reactions have been positive, and I’m pleased with the section that involves my trip to India.

I visited Orissa, and that’s made an impression on the book’s location – I was interested in the impact of the Vedanta aluminium plant there, on both the environment and the local people.

The story isn’t directly about that, but it was a good area to research and a base on which to work the story.

What kind of novel is it?

It’s a modern tale about the search for the truth. It bobs around between London, Scotland and India, so it was important for me to understand the locations. Without the input from my trip to Orissa, the book wouldn’t be anything like it is now.

“We camped in the village, with cows and sheep brushing the side of the tent. It was the best way to understand village life” How much research have you had to do?

I became really quite interested in the Niyamgiri Hills area [where Vedanta planned to mine bauxite] and the interior of Orissa, which I knew virtually nothing about.

Fortunately, I had an excellent guide, who had lots of friends in the villages, so we were able to get a great insight into the original Adivasi tribes like the Dongria Kondh, and how they lived. Not an easy thing to do, because there’s a lot of suspicion around foreigners and their involvement in the mines and with industry.

It became clear to me that India would form a large part of the story.

Orissa is a little bit off the tourist trail – which parts did you enjoy the most?

Bhubaneswar has a lovely welcoming feel to it, right from when you arrive at the airport, and the quality and beauty of the carvings on the temples there was astounding.

I didn’t know a great deal about Hindu temples; I’d never seen them up close. The history went right back to [Indian emperor] Ashoka, and the first unified India 2,000 years ago. It shows the evolution of design – from the simple temples of the 5th century to the 13th century

So would you encourage others to go to Orissa?

There’s a lot to see, certainly, but if you’re just after a feast of Indian architecture it’s probably best to stay in Bhubaneswar.

They have these big ceremonies there – I’d love to be a fly on the wall at one of those. At Konark they have these huge great chariots and extraordinary ceremonies. And I’d love to go back to Chilika Lake when the bird migration is in full flow – that would be fantastic. temple of Konark that’s designed as a chariot. I’ve never seen anything like it.

We saw some spectacular stretches of coastline and camped in the Niyamgiri hills for three nights – right off the beaten track – which was fantastic. Village life starts at 3.30am and by 4.30am everyone was up and going out to the fields, so we didn’t have a great deal of sleep! It was right in the heart of the village, with the cows and sheep brushing the side of the tent. It was the best way to understand village life.

Is it hard adapting to village life?

The first night is very disorientating, the second is quite enjoyable as you get used to it, and by the third night you sleep like a log. I’d say go for it.

The hospitality was wonderful.

What’s your favourite place in India?

I loved Calcutta – it had such a buzz to it. It’s very beautiful in its way. I walked through the city – I wouldn’t drive! It can be hard to understand the nuances of India, you need a good guide.

I’ve no doubt that I’ll return at some point. I still haven’t visited Kerala yet, either.

What about other parts of Asia?

South-west China is interesting to me. I’ve filmed in Vietnam, and I enjoyed the bustle of the cities, especially Hanoi. But my next project will take me to South America; I’m going to be doing a series in Brazil.

The Truth, by Michael Palin is published by Weidenfeld and Nicholson in April 2011

Discover Orissa for yourself You can follow in Michael Palin’s footsteps on TransIndus’ Tribals of Orissa itinerary (14 days, from £2,495). Highlights include an exploration of the Sun Temple at Konark, a World Heritage monument, and Jagannath Temple

in Puri, whose massive chariots gave us the word ‘juggernaut’.

You’ll also visit historic Kolkata, encounter colourful hill tribes and markets around Jeypore and Rayagada, and relax on the wide beaches of Gopalpur-on-Sea.

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 04-05_TransIndus_thv6.indd 5

28/1/11 12:00:01

NEW & NOTED

Stars in stripes F

NEWS BITES TAKE TO THE SKIES

or once, Indian wildlife lovers have something to celebrate: new tiger cubs have been born in Madhya Pradesh’s Pench and Panna National Parks.

In Pench, five cubs were born in the Alikatta range area in late 2010. A local vet has confirmed that the tigress and her little ones are all in good health. This good news follows the birth of a cub in the summer.

In addition, Satpura Tiger Reserve, Three cubs were spotted in Panna fours hours’ drive from Bhopal, is TIGER in mid-2010, though one later went offering tiger lovers a new option.

SPOTTING missing. However, it was news of Newly opened and set against the Call Robin to arrange two more cub births later in the dreamy backdrop of the Pachmari a tiger safari to any of India’s year that provoked the most Hills, the park is home to leopard, game reserves, staying in comfortable lodges with excitement, as they were born sloth bear, gaur, wild dogs, experienced naturalists. to a tigress relocated from porcupine – and tiger.

Call 020 8566 3739 Bandhavgarh National Park.

It is the only park in India to allow for details.

This is first time a translocated walking safaris, allowing for truly wild tiger has given birth at Panna, giving encounters. Two high-quality lodges – a boost to the the country’s tiger revival plan Forsyth Lodge and the Reni Pani Jungle Lodge – and strengthening calls for further tiger relocation. ensure you can wildlife-track in comfort.

Water: less is more Tourism can be a massive drain on local resources – especially where hotels are concerned – so TransIndus has joined forces with the Travel Foundation and Tourism Concern to help increase local understanding of consumption issues. The aim is to develop a framework for water reduction in hotels all along the Kerala coast, and ultimately reduce local hotel water consumption by up to 10%.

One way we’re trying to help is by advising travellers about water scarcity and how they can reduce their impact. Tourism Concern is currently working on a set of water-saving tips for travellers.

See www.tourismconcern.org.uk for more details.

TRANSINDUS WINS ‘OSCAR’

TransIndus was named winner of the silver award in the Best Tour Operator to Southern Asia category in the British Travel Awards 2010.

British Travel Awards’ chief executive Lorraine Barnes Burton commented: “The British Travel Awards are widely considered to be the Oscars of the travel industry. It’s the largest awards programme in the UK, created to reward travel companies, and it’s the

Hover above the highlights of Rajasthan in a hot air balloon: Sky Waltz is now offering intimate, hour-long floats above Jaipur, Udaipur, Ranthambore, Pushkar and Neemrana.

Captained by an experienced crew, you’ll feel you have the skies to yourself as your eight-man balloon glides over Jaipur’s pink palaces or the 50,000-strong camel gathering that is the Pushkar Fair. It’s truly spectacular.

INDIAN VISA NEWS The Indian Government has changed its visa procedures, moving towards an easy-to-use online electronic system.

All visa applications have to be completed using an online form, available at http://in.vfsglobal.co.uk/ onlineapplication.html Alternatively, head to www.transindus.co.uk for more information and advice on how to fill in your form.

AIRPORT UPGRADE

benchmark for excellence when it comes to finding out who really is the best in the business of travel for the UK consumer. This year, more than any, the competition was fierce and TransIndus is to be congratulated on its achievement.”

Companies were nominated by travel industry professionals before being voted for by the British public; in 2009 over 100,000 votes were cast.

Good news for travellers eyeing up a visit to India: July 2010 saw the opening of Terminal 3 at Delhi’s Indira Gandhi International (IGI) Airport, making it South Asia’s largest and most important aviation hub – 34 million passengers can pass through its doors every year.

The spanking-new two-tier building – the lower floor dedicated to arrivals, the upper for departures – now handles both international and domestic flights. There are 168 check-in counters for speedy processing, plus a wealth of duty free shops, lounges and restaurants.

T3 also offers WiFi and snooze pods – it’s nearly worth the journey on its own.

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 06-07_TransIndus_thv7.indd 6

28/1/11 17:10:03

NEW & NOTED

Fast train or slow boat?

Who needs roads? Satyan Bhalla boarded the new Maharajas’ Express, while Francesca Hodgkinson spent a birthday afloat on the Ganges Mumbai-Delhi on The Maharajas’ Express

U

ntil five years ago, India had only one luxury train: the very popular Palace on Wheels. Now though, you can choose from half a dozen: the Deccan Odyssey (in Maharashtra), the Golden Chariot (Karnataka), the Indian Maharaja (Mumbai to Delhi), and the latest and most lavish: the Maharajas’ Express.

Launched in early 2010, the Express travels between Delhi and Mumbai or Delhi and Varanasi, journeying through the night. Every morning brings a new destination – a fresh set of treats for your eyes to feast on. The sun’s rays fill you with renewed energy – and you feel even more elated when welcomed by turbaned men on camel-back and smiling women in brilliant saris.

Our 10-day ride from Mumbai to Delhi opened with a visit to the world heritage site of Champaner, and a meal with the local royal family at their home.

This set the tone for the rest of the week, during which we visited forts and palaces in Udaipur, Jodhpur and Bikaner.

“Every morning brings a new destination – a fresh set of treats for your eyes to feast on” Once the royal circuit was over, a morning safari at Ranthambore National Park introduced us to the lifestyle of the tiger. We were thankful to a six-year-old tiger who emerged and posed for us on cue! Next was an early morning visit to the Taj Mahal, before ending the journey in Delhi. My only wish?

Another day on board…

Cruising with Assam Bengal Navigation

W

hat a way to spend a milestone birthday!

School geography lessons had fired my enthusiasm for the great Ganges and its long meanderings from the snows of the Himalaya to the Bay of Bengal, but I never dreamt I would cruise on it – and in such memorable style: on the elegant riverboat ABN Sukapha.

On the Great Day I woke FIND YOUR early to a spectacular OWN GREAT sunrise over the INDIAN JOURNEY Rajmahal hills – Call Satyan for more a forceful portent of information on The a wonderful decade to Maharajas’ Express or come, I felt. Then, clad Ganges cruises with in our bright orange Assam Bengal life jackets, we chugged Navigation to a hamlet nestling below a little temple backed by a hillside of luscious greenery,

to which we climbed. The holy man beckoned us inside, where I placed flowers and some holy Ganges water on the shrine.

We had the place to ourselves.

The day continued with a series of memorable gems: huge mounds of colourful bangles glinting in the sunshine on a stall; a winding drive along Bengali country lanes; chugging against the current in a fruitless attempt to reach the island shrine of Colganj; presentopening on the sun-deck with my new friends, interspersed with excited cries of “Dolphin!” as we cruised upstream.

We celebrated with Indian champagne and birthday cake in the evening, carried in by one of our ever-smiling crew, a Naga girl in traditional costume.

It was a day to savour forever.

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 06-07_TransIndus_thv7.indd 7

28/1/11 11:27:47

Kerala

All mapped out

Periyar Raft with ex-poachers

Lush and teeming, Periyar Tiger Reserve is an ecotourism success story. Locals who once made a living from poaching in the park’s biodiverse forests have since become its protectors, now responsible for surveillance in the reserve’s most vulnerable reaches. And now you can join them: the ranger-led, armed-guarded Bamboo Rafting trip is the best way to experience this tropical jungle.

Start at dawn, hiking through some of Periyar’s richest woodland, a-twitter with birdlife plus giant squirrel and Nilgiri langur monkeys.

Transfer to tribal bamboo rafts and float until dusk, keeping close to the lake’s edges to watch sambar deer and elephant come to drink.

Wayanad Live like a local

Homestays are booming in India. In Kerala alone, you can bed down in rustic backwater villages or live like a local in Cochin. But one of the best – and most off-beat – options is the Tranquil Plantation Hideaway. Set amid a 400-acre private plantation within the remote Wayanad rainforest, Tranquil is the home of Victor, Ranjini, Ajay and Nisha, and you’ll feel like part of the family.

What can you do in Wayanad? Well, you can go on one of the many walks that riddle the estate, passing the family’s spice and coffee crops; and relaxation – in the pool or via a spot of Ayurvedic massage – is positively encouraged.

Bekal Unwind on quiet beaches

While most visitors head for Kerala’s south, the far north actually boasts the state’s most impressive beaches, including the idyllic, palm-backed sweeps of sand at Bekal.

This former coastal stronghold, hard on the Karnataka border, is home to an imposing fort and some exceptional hotels. The Neeleshwar Hermitage is a luxurious eco-retreat arranged around 12 individual cottages, where you can explore the quiet local backwaters and learn about Keralan life from resident expert Alistair Shearer.

Meanwhile, the nearby Lalit Resort and Spa is a sumptuous wellbeing destination, with 13 treatment rooms offering Ayurveda and Western therapies for true connoisseurs of relaxation.

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 08-09_TransIndus_dlv5.indd 8

28/1/11 17:15:07

KERALA

India’s south-west state of Kerala conjures images of languid waterways and sandy beaches fringed with fishing nets – but there’s far more to this laid-back region, from paddling with ex-poachers to producing your own tea…

KERALA WITH A DIFFERENCE You can experience many of the highlights below on TransIndus’ Kerala With A Difference tour (16 days from £2,795pp).

Call for details.

Tellicherry Cook up a Keralan storm

Learn how to make your own flavour-rich delicacies during a very special homestay: Faiza and Moosa, owners of a vast 19th-century mansion, are famed for their Mopalah food – cuisine with a distinctly Arabian influence.

Under their guidance, you’ll select spices and ingredients from the local market, then return to the kitchen to conjure delicious concoctions – with any time off spent roaming Tellicherry’s forts and watching ritual dances at the nearby temples.

Munnar Take tea in style

In the 1870s, British civil servants visited the misty hills of the High Range on hunting expeditions.

They experimented with many crops before discovering that these slopes were best suited to tea.

Leafy plantations still coat the Range, with many of the original bungalows converted into stylish guesthouses, where butlers fetch you frequent cuppas, chefs serve up feasts and you can personally pick and process your own leaves from the estate – and be drinking them by sundown.

Alleppey Cruise the backwaters

Alleppey is the ‘Venice of the East’, a verdant district riddled with lakes, lagoons and meandering rivers. All this water shelters unique animal and birdlife – and human life too.

Watch rural life glide by from the deck of a traditional rice barge; many of these graceful vessels have been restored for travellers. Hop aboard for a day sail, or sleep overnight in a luxurious cabin for a full backwater immersion.

Ayurveda Practice the ‘science of life’

Kerala has long been synonymous with the traditional medicine methodology of Ayurveda, and there’s nowhere better to detox your body and soul than Ayurveda Mana, the ancestral home of the Poomully family for 500 years.

Authentic Ayurveda treatments coupled with a strictly vegetarian and alcohol-free diet help rejuvenation. The best time to visit is during the monsoon, when it’s believed the body heals best.

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 08-09_TransIndus_dlv5.indd 9

28/1/11 12:19:48

FESTIVALS

Let there be light Diwali illuminates India like no other festival – join a billion people for one of the world’s greatest celebrations

Join the party

TOP 5 FESTIVAL TRIPS FOR 2011 HOLI For a paint-splattered spectacular Where? North India & Nepal When? 20 March What? Sing, dance and be dowsed in paint at the amazing festival of colours. A lively, fun atmosphere is guaranteed; old clothes are essential.

POORAM For Dumbo-sized fun Where? Kerala When? 12 May What? Musical instruments and elaborately decorated elephants celebrate the summer harvest.

ESALA PERAHERA For Kandy-coloured celebrations Where? Sri Lanka When? 31 July-14 August What? The festival of the Buddha’s tooth in Kandy is celebrated with dance, parade and caparisoned elephants in an OTT spectacular.

A

s every Indian child can no doubt recount, ‘darkness reigned across the world and evil permeated every inch in the four directions’. The epic mythological text, The Ramayana, goes on to tell how King Rama returns after his long exile and lights up the world, defeating the demon-king Ravana; evil is banished, darkness replaced by light, and hope and joy restored across the land. Think Lord Of The Rings, subcontinental style.

Commonly known as the ‘festival of lights’, it is in celebration of these mythical events that the origins of Diwali can be traced. The whole of India – particularly in the north – symbolically brings light to an otherwise dark evening sky and once again defeats evil, paving the way for a prosperous, bright and spiritually rewarding year ahead.

You could be forgiven for likening this festival to Bonfire Night – fireworks are used unsparingly over the five-day Diwali period; the air is filled with the thwack of firecrackers and the flicker of oil lamps.

But the two cannot be compared, for it is the saving of humanity and the rebirth of the world that Indians celebrate and

THIMPHU TSECHU rejoice, in a manner to which the West is simply not accustomed.

The energy and excitement is tangible: there’s a real sense that this country of one billion people is celebrating in unison in every village and on every street corner.

Do Diwali

Witnessing Diwali is an India eye-opener: from the colourful hurly-burly of streets packed with people in their Sunday best, to the quieter gatherings where families make their own offerings, it’s a unique time to visit.

TransIndus offers a range of group tours over Diwali (October) specifically designed to put you in a prime location: Amritsar, Jaipur and Udaipur are particular favourites. Among the highlights is seeing how families celebrate Diwali and adorn their houses with oil lamps. Traditional Diwali sweets are, of course, a must.

Alternatively, a tailor-made trip can be designed with Diwali in mind – perhaps to spend this special time in the hills or on a quiet beach for a more subdued but no less enchanting experience. However you choose to enjoy Diwali, it will light up your India holiday.

For masked mayhem Where? Bhutan When? 5-15 October What? Commemorating the second Buddha, this biggest of Bhutanese celebrations sees masked dances and revelry overtake the capital’s Tashichho Dzong.

PUSHKAR FAIR For a big, hairy bargain Where? Rajastan When? 2-10 November What? A whole lot of camels crash the banks of the Pushkar Lake – see tens of thousands of the humped beasts traded in an extraordinary animal gathering.

To arrange a trip to include any of these festivals or numerous others, call Chinmay on 020 8566 3739.

A Brahmin priest prepares himself for the Diwali celebrations in Varanasi

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 10-11_TransIndus_thv4.indd 10

28/1/11 10:59:05

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 10-11_TransIndus_thv4.indd 11

28/1/11 10:59:24

Kutch My kind of trip

India’s far west is home to eerie saltpans, vibrant tribes – and few tourists.

TransIndus’ clients Michael and Jean Thomas explore off-beat Gujarat

“I

ndia is addictive. We have visited many parts, but always return wanting to explore further.” So say Michael and Jean Thomas, which is why, in 2010, they found themselves on their fourth trip: to the little-known region of Kutch.

Few travellers make it out that far. Jutting out into the Arabian Sea off India’s northwest coast, this chunk of Gujarat is topped

by Pakistan and surrounded on its land-sides by the Great and Little Ranns. These vast salt pans flood during the monsoon, cutting the region off entirely – a seasonal island. Even in the dry months, you can sense the isolation as

you make your way across the plains, barren save for plucky grasses and rare wild ass.

Eye-popping sights

“We met many interesting people from quite different origins,” say Michael and Jean. “Migrants from the Middle East and Central Asia brought with them remarkable dress and traditions. Kutch is now worldfamous for its unusual textiles and jewellery.”

Kutch’s island origins have put shipping at its heart. At one extreme sits Mundra Port, where gargantuan tankers dock; at the other is Mandvi, where Muslim timber dhows (sailing vessels) have been built for 400 years.

“These are almost entirely made by hand as decked hulls,” explain Michael and Jean.

“The sight of about 60 boats just propped on the riverbanks is eye-popping.”

Access to Kutch is easiest via Ahmedabad, Gujarat’s largest city – which is not without charms of its own: “We spent time admiring the impressive timber-framed houses of the Old Town, and then drove out to Modhera’s Sun Temple and the 11th-century baoli (step well) at Patan, embellished with astonishing carvings,” recall Michael and Jean.

“We stayed in a decorated bhunga (mud hut) at Rann Riders in Dasada, where the vegetarian food was superb. At dawn, our

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 12-14_TransIndus_thv8.indd 12

28/1/11 12:45:51

my kind of trip Clockwise from left: the old Aina Mahal Palace walls in Bhuj; traditional Jats at a pakora (fritter) stall in Nakhtrana; two of the many hand-crafted dhows on the Mandvi riverbank; Michael and Jean Thomas

Your photos TransIndus clients are a talented bunch of photographers, as these shots demonstrate. To share yours, email Anthony@transindus.com

Tiger in northern India Phil Martin & Brenda Miles India’s iconic big cat is desperately threatened, but sightings – when carefully handled – remain electrifying

Painted Stork attempts landing on a crocodile Michael Clark A brave – or stupid – stork risks losing more than a foot at Ranganthittu Bird Sanctuary

.

Late afternoon in Coonoor guide took us out to see the variety of birds that flock to the nearby lake – pure magic.”

Tragedy strikes

While Kutch is an inspiring land, it’s also a fractured one: a geological fault line runs through the district. In 2001, a huge earthquake struck close to Bhuj, the regional capital; thousands of lives were lost.

“We heard many stories, both tragic and miraculous,” say Michael and Jean.

But restoration is already under way. Bhuj’s Aina Mahal has been partially rebuilt and is worth a visit if only to pick up some insider knowledge. “The museum’s curator made us

a list of ‘must-see’ places. Our rickshaw driver whizzed up the backstreets until we’d ticked them all off. It was great fun.”

As well as the ancient – such as the 4,500year-old ruins at Dholavira – Kutch is home to more modern marvels. Bhuj’s vast Swaminarayan Temple only opened in May 2010. “The carving from Makrana marble is superb,” reflect Michael and Jean. “However, it’s hard to reconcile this extravagance with the overt poverty in many parts of Kutch.

As usual, India makes you think.”

For more information about this journey, call TransIndus on 020 8566 3739

Peter Woodburn This quiet little town in Tamil Nadu is full of exciting trails that offer you splendid views of the lush landscape

Dhobi women in Varanasi David Penfold A traditional dhobi (washer) woman plies her trade on the banks of the Ganges

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 12-14_TransIndus_thv8.indd 13

28/1/11 12:46:12

spas

Spa Spotting

Looking for the very best of traditional Asian luxury and the latest in modern spa treatments? Relax with these three Eastern stars

Devi Spa by L’Occitane

Serene Pavilions

Relax in a traditional Indian palace while enjoying the best in French pampering.

Set deep within Rajasthan’s Aravali hills, the magnificent Devi Garh Palace now houses one of India’s most luxurious spa retreats within its 39 marbled suites.

Discover French beauty-brand L’Occitane en Provence’s unique take on treating yourself, specially designed for Devi Resorts using a combination of local flowers and fruits from north India, and complemented by personalised service.

You’ll quickly find out that the Serene Pavilions is aptly named. Nestling in picturesque landscape gardens within a coconut grove and kissed by the rolling Indian Ocean, it’s the ideal beach-side location for total indulgence.

You can experience divine bliss at the hands of well-trained Ayurveda therapists who will pamper you with a variety of treatments specially created to suit your every mood, without you even having to leave your stylish pavilion. And when it’s kitted out with a private open-air Jacuzzi, why would you want to?

Devi Garh Palace, Udaipur, India

Wadduwa, Sri Lanka

Uma Paro Paro, Bhutan

Soothe the mind, body and soul with Uma Paro’s understated mix of quiet comfort, fun activities and traditional medicine, set within the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan – a dramatic landscape of pine-clad valleys and snow-tipped ranges.

Here you can choose whether to take fascinating inland treks through Buddhist Bhutan or to improve your wellbeing with Asian-inspired treatments, including massage and Ayurveda. Or you can just take advantage of the resort’s many luxury facilities, including steam rooms, yoga studio and hot-stone bathhouse.

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 12-14_TransIndus_thv8.indd 14

28/1/11 12:46:56

KnowHow

From India to Bhutan, the team from TransIndus reveal a few secrets for smart travellers

A perfect day in…

Calcutta How to get beyond the hustle-bustle in India’s cultural capital

7am Dalhousie Square Head to Calcutta’s Unescolisted square at 7am for a fascinating and traffic-free walk with local expert HusnaTara Prakash. Start at the site of the infamous ‘Black Hole’, walking past the Writers’ Building, the former HQ of the East India Company, the glorious Governor’s House and the almost forgotten Charnock Mausoleum.

10am Breakfast at Bomti’s Catch a glimpse of old-school Calcutta (Kolkata): art collector and socialite Mr Surojit ‘Bomti’ Iyenger welcomes visitors to his home in the most interesting building on historic Chowringhee.

Authentic Bengali cuisine is dished up with Darjeeling tea and art insights.

Morning North Calcutta Plunge into the narrow alleys of ‘Black Town’, where pioneering Bengali families once built their mansions. The area is awash with treasures and tales; don’t miss the grand Marble Palace

and the home of Bengali Nobel Laureate, Rabindranath Tagore.

Lunch Calcutta Races The Royal Calcutta Turf Club is one of the oldest and grandest in India – a real taste of the old ‘Raj’. Meet the jockeys and their horses, enjoy lunch in a Member’s Box and place a bet.

Afternoon Textile studio At Rangeen, watch artisans weaving at their looms and printing and dying silks and cotton using a range of techniques. There is also a textile library and museum with a collection of antique fabric from around the globe.

Dusk Hooghly cruise Board a boat on the River Hooghly for a close-up view of Calcutta’s bustling ghats. Sail past Belur Math – headquarters of Ramakrishna Mission – and under the vast Howrah and Vidyasagar Setu bridges while sumptuous snacks are served.

TransIndus can arrange 1-3 day Calcutta tours. Call for details.

TIPS & ADVICE

3 SECRETS THE CROWDS DON’T KNOW ABOUT...

1

BHUTAN’S HIDDEN VALLEY

One of the most beautiful spots in Bhutan, the wide and sweeping Gangtey Valley is home to two meandering rivers, the hilltopperched Nyingmapa monastery and legends galore – but no electricity.

In winter it plays host to flocks of black-necked crane, which descend to escape the harsher conditions at higher altitudes. TransIndus’ 16-day The Bhutan Journey includes an overnight stay in Gangtey.

2

A WINDOW ON THE HIMALAYA, NEPAL

Located midway between Kathmandu and Pokhara, the village of Bandipur sits on a ridge-top. From it, a spectacular panorama unfurls, including the entire Annapurna Range, the 8,000m-plus peaks of Dhaulagiri and Manaslu and the lowlaying Marsyangdi Valley.

Overnight at a homestay and explore: visit Bandipur Bazaar, take in the temples, hike down to Siddha Cave, learn about local Newari culture and amble along the wildlife-rich Orchid Trail.

3

AN ECO-LODGE FOR THE SOUL, KANHA, INDIA

For a unique wildlife experience, stay at Flame Of The Forest in Kanha National Park. Tastefully done up

by Karan and his girlfriend Isabelle, the property comprises just four cottages, perched on a hillside overlooking the Banjar River.

A jeep safari with Karan is special indeed – as is the varied homegrown cuisine – while Yoga classes by Isabelle help tone the body and mind.

Take a photo like this TAJ MAHAL While the Taj Mahal’s beautiful marble shimmers all day long, changing colour with the changing sunlight, it is best photographed at sunrise or sunset, when it glows in hues of pink and red. For a more unusual perspective, which few visitors discover, head to the Mehtab Bagh. These gardens to the north of the Taj, on the opposite bank of the Yamuna River, are away from the crowds; seen from here, across the water, the monument is even more breathtaking. www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8566 3739 15_TransIndus_thv3.indd 15

28/1/11 10:53:21

www.transindus.co.uk | Enquiry Line: 020 8231 0580 OBC_TransIndus_gbv2.indd 16

28/1/11 10:26:29