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Taking The Road Less Travelled Since 1993

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SRIFromLANKA every angle DISCOVER NEW RAIL ADVENTURES

Chilean Tierra del Fuego Wild Florida Keys Thuringia Ancient Rhodes Sucre Pembrokeshire Coast Switzerland Norfolk Colonia

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The Baroque bell tower of St Sophia’s Cathedral, the oldest standing church in Kyiv, was the first part of it to be completed in stone, after fire destroyed the old wooden monastery in the late 17th century. Having survived over 300 years, the idea that it could be wiped out in the blink of an eye reminds us just how precious our living history really is

SUBS ART PRODUCTION CLIENT Cover image: Aerial view of Galle Fort, Sri Lanka, by Tuul and Bruno Morandi/Alamy; cover wrap & this page: AWL Images

ack in 2008, when the horrors of what is currently unfolding in Ukraine seemed unimaginable, I had the privilege of witnessing one of the most memorable views I’ve ever encountered, gazing out from an upper floor of Kyiv’s Hotel Ukrayina. As I checked in, Ksenia, the dezhurnaya (the floor’s housekeeper), gave me a mini tour of the city from the room’s balcony. Facing Independence Square, I followed her gaze to the National Academy of Music, where her daughter taught piano. Beyond shone the golden domes of St Sophia’s Cathedral to one side and St Michael’s Monastery to the other. The square beneath us was buzzing with young Kyivans meeting under the Independence Monument. This week, I saw that same view on my TV screen. But now the square was deserted except for the barricades and military equipment that stood next to the Academy. It was a bitter discovery made all the more distressing by the appalling revelations of the news cycle. It also caused me to pause and think. I’d recently returned from a two-week trip across Sri Lanka, a country that was, until not too long ago, off-limits due to a protracted civil war (not a foreign invasion, as in Ukraine’s case). I couldn’t see any visible remnants of conflict in the extraordinary places I’d visited, where I encountered some of the most hospitable and friendly people I’ve met. War has undoubtedly left deep scars in the hearts and minds of Sri Lankans, but I witnessed how far the country had come and it gave me hope. It brought home yet again the impact of travel. These trips had given me an insight into the identity of both countries and an understanding of their backstories. They had introduced me to local people as living, breathing individuals, with whom I would retain a lifelong connection. Like all of us in this Wanderlust community, I hope that Ukrainians will soon be able to cherish peace and freedom once more and reclaim their livelihoods in their homeland. Until then, my thoughts, and the thoughts of everyone at Wanderlust, are with the people of Ukraine.

FOR OUR WANDERLUST CLUB MEMBERS

Every year, we offer Wanderlust Club Members one free gift, and 2022 is no exception. However, this year you can not only pick from five gifts, but you can choose to turn your gift into a charitable donation instead. We’ll donate to a critical cause or special project on your behalf, with options including a £10 donation to the British Red Cross Ukraine Crisis Appeal, to help get critical care to those who need it the most. See p136 for more details

George Kipouros Editor in Chief @georgiostravels

WANDERLUST: ‘The wish to travel far away and to many different places’ – Cambridge Dictionary

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Contributors

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Wanderlust is brought to life by people from all over the planet. Here are some of the award-winning writers and photographers who have crafted this issue – plus, we asked: what rail journey would you most like to experience in 2022?

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PAUL WADE

VICKY SMITH

MIKE UNWIN

CAROL CAIN

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Thuringia

Pembrokeshire

Nature in Sri Lanka

New York State

Paul has been exploring Germany since childhood and loves the historic cities of Thuringia (p188), which he believes have not only top-class hiking and biking trails, but the country’s best sausages. What rail journey would you most like to try in 2022? “Riding the USA’s longest narrowgauge steam railway, the 103km Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad from Antonito, Colorado to Chama, New Mexico.”

Vicky is a travel photographer and journalist who has visited all seven continents. She is fluent in Spanish, though it proved little help in exploring the coastal joys of Pembrokeshire in Wales (p180). What rail journey would you most like to try in 2022? “I’d love to experience the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, spiritual successor to its namesake. It even features restored vintage carriages from the original train.”

Travel and nature writer Mike has written over 38 books and was voted “UK Travel Writer of the Year 2013” (British Guild of Travel Writers). He is never happier than when spotting birds and beasties, as he demonstrates in his look at the wildlife of Sri Lanka (p84). What rail journey would you most like to try in 2022? “Cape Town to Victoria Falls. I would hop on in the shadow of Table Mountain and hop off into the spray of the great cataract.”

Brooklyn native Carol is the founder of Brave World Media marketing agency and the creator of GirlGoneTravel.com. She lives, works and plays in New York State, a region she tells us all about in this month’s issue (p170). What rail journey would you most like to try in 2022? “My dream trips are the Bernina Express, going from eastern Switzerland to Northern Italy, and riding The Jacobite steam train through Scotland.”

GARETH CLARK

JULIET RIX

SHAFIK MEGHJI

EMMA THOMSON

Rail journeys for 2022

Rhodes

Tierra del Fuego & Sucre

Sri Lankan rail journeys

Guidebook author (Luxembourg, Greece, Malta, Belgium, China), writer and Wanderlust sub editor Gareth indulges his love of trains this month, looking for this year’s top new rail adventures (p102). What rail journey would you most like to try in 2022? “I’ve always wanted to ride from Canada’s Winnipeg to polar-bear capital Churchill, watching the aurora ripple overhead as I barrel across the silent tundra to the frozen shore of Hudson Bay.”

A journalist, author and editor, Juliet has travelled in 60 countries on seven continents. For this issue, she has chosen to stay a little closer to home, exploring one of her favourite places in Europe, peeling back layer upon layer of history on the Greek island of Rhodes (p148). What rail journey would you most like to try in 2022? “Exploring the Canadian Rocky Mountains from the comfort of a panoramic viewing carriage.”

Award-winning travel writer and journalist Shafik specialises in Latin America and is the author of Crossed off the Map: Travels in Bolivia, which inspired his piece on Sucre (p184). He also takes us to Patagonia’s southern tip (p58). What rail journey would you most like to try in 2022? “It’s got to be a toss-up between the Copper Canyon railway in Mexico, the Andean Explorer in Peru and the Reunification Express in Vietnam.”

Emma is a journalist, author and speaker specialising in countries recovering from natural disasters, political upheaval or COVID-19. Sri Lanka was hit hard by the latter, and one of the best ways to put rupees back into its economy is by travelling its railways (p90). What rail journey would you most like to try in 2022? “I’m planning an Arctic rail odyssey across Norway, Sweden and Finland – keep your eyes peeled for it in an issue of Wanderlust.”

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DISCOVER OUR NEWLY RE-LAUNCHED WEBSITE wanderlustmagazine.com

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Wanderlust is the UK’s leading independent travel magazine, taking the road less travelled since 1993. Paul Morrison and Lyn Hughes schemed the project on a flight to Ecuador, aspiring to produce a publication that combined the right mix of wildlife, activities and cultural insight. Twenty-nine years later, Wanderlust is the oldest UK travel magazine still in circulation, and it continues to inspire through impartial information and fresh ideas alongside original creative writing and astonishing photography. It has a distinct focus on highlighting off-the-beaten-path experiences and bringing to light the most exciting destinations. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel has been its modus operandi for the last three decades. It is always upfront about whether its writers have travelled independently or with a tour company and will never guarantee positive coverage to any of our advertisers. With a strong and rapidly growing digital presence, wanderlustmagazine.com delivers thousands of articles and attracts over 12 million visitors a year, alongside 150,000+ social media followers. ‘The Wanderlust Club’ maintains a community of serious travellers engaged 24/7. Wanderlust leads the way in the production of intelligent, inspirational travel stories. Its blend of exclusive features, practical reviews, unique insights, tips and ideas has won awards from respected travel and media industry bodies across the planet.

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General enquiries +44 (0)20 3771 7190, info@wanderlust.co.uk EDITORIAL CONTENT Editor-in-Chief George Kipouros @georgiostravels Founding Editor Lyn Hughes @wanderlust.lyn Sub Editor Gareth Clark Special Features Editor Rosie Fitzgerald @rosiefitzgerald Contributing Editors Sarah Baxter, Mark Carwardine, Paul Goldstein & William Gray DESIGN Art Director Graham Berridge Assisted by Scott Jessop (maps) DIGITAL Digital Creative Director Anil Karwal Digital Editor Jessica Reid COMMERCIAL PARTNERSHIPS Partnerships Director Adam Lloyds (adam.lloyds@wanderlust.co.uk) Senior Creative Partnerships Manager Simon Bryson @_bryos Creative Partnerships Manager Lucy Bairstow PUBLISHING Chief Executive George Kipouros Chief Operating Officer Elliot Wellsteed-Crook Marketing & Social Media Manager Christina Wildman Mullett Wanderlust Club Manager Maria Manta WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO Hashan Cooray, David Ezra, Beth Harvey, Phoebe Oliver, Mark Wright

In memory of Co-founder & Publisher Paul Morrison

Recent Awards

© Wanderlust Travel Media Ltd, 2022, ISSN 1351-4733 Published by Wanderlust Travel Media, Capital House, 25 Chapel St, Marylebone, London NW1 5DH. All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any manner, in whole or in part, is strictly forbidden without the prior written consent of the publishers. All prices are correct at time of press. No responsibility for incorrect information can be accepted. Views expressed in articles are those of the authors, and not necessarily the publishers. Wanderlust is a registered trademark. US distribution Wanderlust, ISSN 1351-4733, is published bi-monthly and is distributed in the USA by Pitney Bowes International Mailing Services Inc as mailing agent. Periodicals postage paid at Kearny, NJ and additional mailing offices. Contributions & work experience For details, please go to www.wanderlustmagazine.com/about-us Printing Walstead Roche, Victoria Business Park Roche, St Austell, Cornwall PL26 8LX Newstrade distribution Marketforce (UK) Ltd: 0203 787 9001 Circulation marketing Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd: 01293 312001

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ABOUT US

THIS ISSUE MAPPED VERSION

Contents

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34 ART

170 PRODUCTION

174

CHECK IN

34 Arts & Crafts: East Germany

We stand with Ukraine. War threatens not only its people, but its history and heritage too

The East German craft scene isn’t about souvenirs, it’s about stories

12 Viewfinder

19 Letters

You tell us about your Antarctic struggles, most memorable flights, Africa’s best parks and more

21 Your Photos

You send us your best shots

22 Just Back From…

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How Australia’s “new” culinary trend for using Indigenous ingredients draws on 65,000 years of history

38 Sustainable Travel

Why “transformational travel” is about more than just escaping – it’s about using travel to grow

A reader’s road trip to wild Scotland

40 Dispatches: Norfolk

JOURNAL

27 Grapevine

Norfolk’s wherry boats were once the toast of the Broads; now they’re making a heroic comeback

Serbia’s first new national park in 40 years, London goes cultural this spring and all the latest travel news

46 Gear

Improve your travels with our pick of the gadgets for a spring break

New books and TV shows to fuel your adventures, plus the arrival of Wanderlust’s brand new podcast

From hill-country hideaways to lush eco-resorts, find your perfect Sri Lankan getaway

32 Armchair Travel

10 April/May 2022

36 World Food: Australia

48 WanderSleeps: Sri Lanka

184

Map illustration: Scott Jessop

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Contents 220 120

102

FEATURES

148

168

58 Tierra del Fuego It’s the end of the world – or at least it is geographically. Find out why Chile’s far-flung outpost, home to the planet’s southernmost city and trail, is your next remote escape

174 Indigenous Culture How “Living Villages” are restoring the traditions of Namibia’s peoples

176 World Heritage

Uruguay’s much coveted Colonia del Sacramento has a wild history – and it’s written all over its streets

180 British Break

74 Sri Lanka

The history of Sri Lanka is writ large across the architectural and cultural treasures of its ancient royal capitals and forts – but only if you know what you’re looking for PLUS: How a Sri Lankan eco-resort is helping bring back local wildlife AND: Why the Teardrop Isle is best seen from a moving train

102 Back on Track

Hit the rails this springs as we line up the best new train routes for 2022, plus the year’s top rail tours

120 Florida Keys

When do you know you’re somewhere special? Dolphins,

As Pembrokeshire’s national park turns 70, we discover there’s plenty to celebrate on the Welsh coast

184 Off The Grid

turtles, Hemingway and sunsets all combine in our imagination as we find the Florida Keys’ natural side

148 Rhodes

Medieval Crusader knights built one of the great citadels of Europe on Rhodes, but there is more to the island than its historic capital

Bolivia’s original capital, Sucre, is filled with colonial wonders, fairytale palaces and silver museums – and don’t forget the dinosaurs

DISCOVER

188 European Short Break

168 Double Bill

France’s finest – Rennes and Nantes – share a similar past and great food. But which is for you?

Germany’s home of Bauhaus is more than an exhibit – we savour history, heritage and the finest sausages in scenic Thuringia

Discover the wine country and wild forests of New York’s Finger Lakes

You can see the story of Mexico’s Guanajuato in just one glimpse

194 The View From Above

170 Hidden USA

22 Scotland 102 Stockholm 102 Calgary Utah 102

Pembrokeshire 180

12 Ukraine 188 Thuringia 102 Uzbekistan Rennes & Nantes 168 Rhodes 102 Azerbaijan 148 170 New York State 120 Florida Keys Sri Lanka 74

CLUB MEMBERS!

Map illustration: Scott Jessop

102 Kyushu Laos 102

Guanajuato 194

Claim your free gift, or choose to donate it to a good cause. See p136 for details

102 China

Namibia 174 Sucre 184 176 Colonia del Sacramento

Australia 102

New Zealand 102

Tierra del Fuego 58

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Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra, Kyiv, Ukraine

Atop the forested hillsides of central Kyiv, the golden domes of the cathedral of Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra glint in the sun-streaked skies. Since the 11th century, when this complex was founded as a cave monastery (“pecherska” means “of the caves”), the site has been a beacon to pilgrims. Much later, travellers arrived, eager to peer through the murk of its catacombs and explore tombs, cave churches and important religious art. Together with the nearby St Sophia’s Cathedral, the city’s oldest standing church, this UNESCO-listed complex makes up one of Europe’s most important Orthodox Christian sites. They’re not just impressive on the outside; inside, their frescoes and art point to a time when this was the intellectual heart of the region. Along with people and hope, these are the things that war strips away: the cultural soul of a place. With reports of Russian troops destroying historical and artistic artefacts, as countless invaders have done in the past, it’s important that we remember and celebrate these sites. © Olga Tarasyuk / Alamy

#StandWithUkraine

VIEWFINDER

#StandWithUkraine

VIEWFINDER

Synevyr National Nature Park, Zakarpattia Oblast, Ukraine

The Carpathian Mountains crumple their way across Eastern and Central Europe for over 1,500km, crossing borders without papers or fuss. They only briefly flit in and out of Ukraine’s little-populated west, but among these outer foothills lies the quiet, lush expanse of Synevyr National Nature Park. While the park may only have been formed in 1989, and expanded a few years ago, this is an old, storied land. Its name comes from the legend of a pair of tragic lovers (Syn and Vyr), and across much of the area runs a transnational UNESCO-listed stretch of ancient and primeval beech forest that spans 18 nations. In the golden sheen of dawn, the meadows and forests look the embodiment of peace: empty hills for miles, iris-blue lakes, great spoils of spruce and beech bristling the land. Reality may be very different, but between its Gorgany peaks, birdfilled wetlands and vast mountain lakes, Synevyr looks and feels a world apart. Sooner or later, we hope to return. © Myron Standret / Alamy

Lviv National Opera, Lviv, Ukraine

There are those cities that you love and just can’t fathom why they’re not better known – but, at the same time, you’re secretly delighted. That’s how we’ve always felt about Lviv, which has long rewarded anyone with the patience to just wander. Its UNESCO-listed centre sees relics of Habsburg largesse dot every corner. Buildings such as the opulent Lviv National Opera theatre – dripping in Neo-Renaissance flourishes and winged bronze figures – speak to an era when Austro-Hungarian influence extended beyond politics and the city’s many Viennese-style cafés; it seeped into the very buildings. Out by the university, the House of Scientists, a 19th-century Neo-Baroque former casino, and the whitefronted Potocki Palace are fine examples. But marvels are everywhere here. Strolling Rynok Square is a feast as you spy the Renaissance-era palazzo of Korniakt and the city’s 18th-century former apothecary. To think that war threatens all this makes us even more determined to see the city once again during happier days – and this time spread the word. © Mauritius Images GmbH / Alamy

#StandWithUkraine

VIEWFINDER

Letters 220 VERSION

Your Letters

SOCIAL TALK “My most memorable plane ride was 30+ years ago on a 20-ish seater plane in Scotland during a thunderstorm. Seriously thought I wouldn’t make it. Being allowed in the cockpit of an Air New Zealand jet as we landed in LAX in the dark was memorable for better reasons – will never forget the view!” @Robertonjimbob

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You’ve been getting in touch about making it to the Antarctic, our exclusive Wanderlust Club members’ events and much more…

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“I was in Madeira two weeks ago, and will go back again in another two weeks. A great place for those of us who like to put on hiking boots.” Travelling Claus “#Namibia’s Etosha National Park has got to be one of the best destinations in the world for self-drive #safari.”@undertourists

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Never give up

Wanderlust reserves the right to edit all submissions; image: Alex Hinton

A big birthday to a traveller means only one thing: a big trip. Having explored six continents already, there was one left to discover: Antarctica. After failing to get there twice due to COVID-19-related issues, I was eager to succeed. I bagged a deal on a new cruise sailing from Ushuaia, packed my bags and tried to wade through the many rules and regs. For those daunted by this, my advice is to keep at it. The Government website (www.gov.uk) was excellent in advising what forms had to be filled in, and provided links to them. It was straightforward and updated often, whereas the cruise company

You are loving our Club Member events! Here’s what you said about our …online Georgia & the Caucasus (with Wild Frontiers) event

“Excellent evening – really must go there now! Thank you.” Pamela “Georgia and Armenia booked for October. Can’t wait after this.” Alex

fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk

wasn’t so useful – probably due to dealing with so many nationalities, meaning the onus was on us. There was frustration over sourcing the cost for various tests, and my language skills were examined when Argentina’s mandatory health form hesitated in giving me an English version. Some of it refused to translate, so I had to ask for help from a fellow passenger. But the point is that it was worth it. The more obstacles thrown in my path, the more determined I was to fulfil my dream. And having survived two days crossing the Drake Passage, the sight of penguins greeting me was reward for every inconvenience. Alex Hinton, via email

“The food, drink and hospitality looked amazing. Sounds like my kind of place.” Simon “Thank you. Very interesting. It’s definitely on my wish list now” Ann “I loved that legend about the creation of Georgia. It made me want to go even more!” Dean “Thank you. It was very interesting – and worth getting up at 4am

@wanderlustmag

“[My favourite place to see wildlife is] Londolozi Concession, Sabi Sands Game Reserve in South Africa. Second would be the polar regions, namely South Georgia Island and Svalbard. Third would be Brooks Falls in Alaska’s Katmai National Park during the summer sockeye salmon run.” Phil Schultz “One thing I’ve learned from our road trip in Iceland is that the drive takes way longer than expected, mainly due to constantly pulling over to take pictures of mountain ranges, waterfalls or Icelandic horses.” @bengmars “On the morning I [went ballooning in Cappadocia] there were more than 60 balloons in the air, with 24 people in each basket plus the pilot. It’s amazing.” Alan Mitchell

for way over here in Queensland, Australia.” Annette “It sounds like a fascinating place, and I cannot wait to visit.” Kerry “Thank you, Lyn, Jonny and Marc. This has been very informative.”Graham “Great webinar! I really hadn’t considered Georgia and Armenia before.” Sarah

@wanderlustmag

“Azerbaijan has very unique architecture. India offers a panorama of blended styles over centuries of civilisation. Japan and Dubai offer some of the most innovative design solutions. Take your pick.” @kunal_klicks

wanderlusttravelmagazine

Drop us a line with your pics, thoughts, tips and travel suggestions, and help other travellers find their way

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You’ve been sending us images of your latest trips and favourite adventures – tag us at #wanderlustmag on Instagram or email them to us at fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk

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“The beautiful Grand Master’s Palace in Valletta has the history of Malta painted across all of its walls.” Laura Di Stefano

“Fort Warwick is where pirate Henry Morgan made his base on Santa Catalina, Colombia, in the 17th century.” Xavi Navarro

“After three months of lockdown last year, I got to appreciate Vietnam’s Ho Chi Minh City from a different perspective.” Catalin Chitu

“This was taken near the end of our hike in South Africa’s South Drakensberg region, when a group of wild horses appeared.” Katy Gullon

”Trekking the El Caminito del Rey, an aerial walkway pinned to the steep walls of a narrow gorge in El Chorro, Málaga.” Monica Velte

“This was taken last summer at Cauldron Falls in North Yorkshire. I’m an avid waterfall chaser, so it was a must for me.” Scott Antcliffe

“There are over 100 pepper farms in the Bogura district of Bangladesh, where traders dry peppers in the sun.” Shafiul Islam Shaikot

“I took this from a minaret overlooking the Sher Dor Medressa on Samarkand’s Registan in Uzbekistan.” Sarah Hewat Jaboor

CLIENT

“On a trip to County Donegal, Ireland, we were rewarded with this view in the Derryveagh mountains.” Rhonda and Roger Vaughan

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YOUR PHOTOS

Just Back From 220

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YOUR TALES OF... Memorable train journeys

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Scotland the green (clockwise from top) The lush hills of the Affric-Kintail Way; the track up to Scoraig, a peninsular settlement near Ullapool; the family celebrates conquering Bealach na Bà; the serene waters of Loch Affric

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Scotland

Nandini Chakraborty recalls her road-trip adventure through Northern Scotland and its wild and remote stays and trails The highlight: An 18km loop around Loch Affric. This route takes in parts of the Affric-Kintail Way, and we were blessed with a perfect combination of dry weather and a partially overcast sky, which made for good walking without us being too hot or dehydrated. The views were expansive, stretching out ahead like a giant map, while the trail had just enough scramble points and crossings (burns without bridges) to give a sense of achievement but without being too technically difficult. Must see: The drive through Bealach na Bà is a winding single-track road through the mountains of the Applecross Peninsula, connecting Shieldaig and Applecross.This can be a driving challenge but is well worth the views and the bragging rights of having negotiated the many passing points. Top tip: Be sure to use the Walk Highlands website (www.walkhighlands.co.uk) to research walks in whatever area you are crossing. It has elaborately detailed stage-by-stage descriptions of many trails, downloadable maps and a number of suggestions to suit all levels and tastes of hiking.

Cautionary tale: Take an insect repellent. I had underestimated tales of just how bad the midges here can be. I’m still nursing the many bites. I wish I had known: I would have liked to have been able to predict the weather better, and to do so far ahead of time. Hiking the Quiraing in the fog was pretty frustrating, offering only a hint of the views – a bit like smelling the aroma of a feast but only being passed morsels through a hole in the wall! Anything else: Out of the many picturesque accommodations we stayed in, Garvault House, Sutherland, took my eye. Its claim to be the “most remote hotel on the British mainland” is not unfounded.You could stay a week and walk in many directions to numerous lonely hills and lochs. The hospitality of owners Eva and Adrian was impeccable, as were their sit-down three-course dinners, ornate tea sets, dark-wood library and living room that basked in the rays of the setting sun as you took afternoon tea. I am glad, at least, that the lack of travel over the last year has taught me so much about what the British Isles has to offer.

“We boarded in Cape Town (South Africa) and rode to Ceres and back. I spent the first part chatting to the conductor, who later returned with permission to access the footplate. I was escorted to the front where the heat of the engine burnt the tips of my hair as we departed. I only wish 10 year old me could’ve been there to see it.” Eleanor McBrien “I remember the first day waking up on Via Rail’s The Canadian and gazing out of my window at what looked like Narnia: snowy trees and frozen lakes with beaver dams.” Katherine Clifford Go online to share your tales on next issue’s topic: surprising ancient sites

Just got back from somewhere amazing? Email us at fromtheroad@ wanderlust.co.uk or visit us at wanderlustmagazine.com

Wanderlust reserves the right to edit all submissions; Alamy; Debashis Dass

SUBS

“Colombia’s steam train from Bogotá to Zipaquirá’s Salt Cathedral had carriages as old as its puffing engine, and grand leather seats. The journey passed in a flash as we were entertained by jazz bands, who strolled the train while vendors offered leaf-wrapped tamales, tinto (coffee) and white merengó desserts.” Helen Jackson

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Into the wild (clockwise from this) The jungle-lined shores of Manuel Antonio NP; over half of Costa Rica is covered by rainforest; Cornwall’s Eden Project is home to about 16,000 sq m of indoor rainforest; sloth sightings in Costa Rica are almost guaranteed; the vivid blue waters of Rio Celeste waterfall

SUBS ART PRODUCTION

Find your sanctuary and win a Costa Rica adventure for two

CLIENT

osta Rica is the definition of biodiversity, with its wildlife and landscapes offering thrilling natural adventures. Here’s how you can win a dream trip there for two, plus Family Membership to the Eden Project in Cornwall, England.

BIODIVERSE ESCAPES

local communities and respect the land by leaving no trace. Learn more at: costarica-sanctuary.com

CLOSER TO HOME

Across the Atlantic, another kind of sanctuary can be found in Cornwall, where a barren china clay quarry was transformed 21 years ago into a beautiful global garden called the Eden Project. Today, Eden is a popular visitor destination and cultural venue where you can enjoy trekking through a vast indoor rainforest and extensive outdoor gardens while picking up plenty of tips on caring for the planet. The project has even extended to Costa Rica, where it aims to restore a biological corridor of dry tropical forest while supporting local communities on the Nicoya

ENTER NOW

The Eden Project, Visit Costa Rica and Journey Latin America are offering the chance to win a trip for two to Costa Rica (includes return flights), plus Family Membership to the Eden Project. To enter, go to: edenproject.com/ costa-rica-comp For full terms, conditions and data policies, go to: edenproject. com/costa-rica-comp Closing date is 1 June 2022.

Costa Rica Tourism Board; The Eden Project

Your journey to Costa Rica with Journey Latin America, the UK’s number one specialist in travel to Central and South America, will start in the cultural capital San José. From here, you’ll head to the Central Valley to see coffee farms in towns such as Heredia, where traditional methods are used to ensure top-quality coffee. Costa Rica is home to some 6.5% of the world’s biodiversity, and you’ll have a chance to see

plenty of it at the Arenal Volcano National Park. Admire the perfect cone of its eponymous volcano and walk the hanging bridges above the forest canopy to learn about the native flora and fauna. Finish at Manuel Antonio National Park to relax on the beach and seek out the monkeys, sloths and some 950 species of bird in the forest. From riding rapids to wellness retreats and meeting sabaneros (Costa Rican cowboys), to watching turtles nest, there’s so much to do. But before you set off, bear in mind the “Pura Vida Pledge”, a four-step plan for sustainable travel in Costa Rica. First, choose to book with a UK tour operator such as Journey Latin America, who are working with sustainable hotels and excursions in Costa Rica. Next, offset your carbon. Lastly, support

Peninsula. It is working with the Matambú Forest Reserve, an area left damaged by overfarming and logging. Today, it’s being transformed back into lush forest where birdsong fills the air and rejuvenated rivers flow freely. Back at Cornwall’s Eden, get a taste of Costa Rica this April in the new Eco Lodge exhibit in the Rainforest Biome, which puts the country’s commitment to eco-tourism on full show. The lodge will be built with natural materials and will tell the story of Costa Rica’s biodiversity and reforestation work. And that’s just the start, with more exciting Costa Rica projects coming to the Cornwall site later this year. Whether exploring Project Eden or Costa Rica, with this prize, you’re bound to find your sanctuary amid so much natural wonder.

For more information, go to: costarica-sanctuary.com, journeylatinamerica.co.uk and edenproject.com

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Costa Rica/Eden Ad 220

COMPETITION

Podcast House Ad 220

WANDERLUST READER EVENTS VERSION REPRO OP

It’s finally here... Wanderlust’s very own podcast

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FIRST SERIES INCLUDES… • Wanderlust Hot List 2022 with George, Lyn & Rosie • Rocky Mountain National Park (partner special) • Well-being in Austria with Helen Moat • Easter Island with Shafik Meghji

LISTEN HERE:

Wanderlustmagazine.com/podcast

Alamy; Shutterstock

COMING SOON… • Vietnam by rail with Alex Robinson

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Australia’s Indigenous eats, the fate of Norfolk’s wherries, transforming yourself through travel and more in this issue’s news and advice section...

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Grapevine

Armchair travel

Arts & crafts: East Germany

World food: Australia

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Sustainable travel

Dispatches: Norfolk

Gear

WanderSleeps: Sri Lanka

Aman Resorts

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Standing the test of time The Amangalla hotel building in Fort Galle has lived many lives since it was built in the 17th century. It’s just one of many historic and innovative stays – from eco-resorts to hill-country hideaways – we uncover in Sri Lanka this month; p48

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What’s New

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All the latest cultural attractions, incredible stays and brand new wild escapes on Wanderlust’s radar

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London calling… This spring, London sees a wealth of cultural days out to savour…

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First up is Courtauld Gallery’s Van Gogh Self Portraits, an exhibition that reunites around half of all the self portraits painted by the Dutch master throughout his career, from his formative days in Paris up until his final one, created at the asylum in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence before he died. Until 8 May; courtauld.ac.uk

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Lost and found

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One of the world’s most iconic shipwrecks has finally been found in Antarctica, about 6.5km from where it was recorded before it was crushed by ice. Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Endurance, lost more than a century ago, was discovered 3km beneath the Weddell Sea and is still remarkably intact. Coincidentally, the ship was found on the 100th anniversary of Shackleton’s funeral, according to the Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust. Keep an eye out for a future issue of Wanderlust where our own Mark Stratton will be marking the centenary on a trip to the sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia.

Alamy; © The National Gallery, London

NEW HORIZONS For the first time in four decades, Serbia is getting a new national park – in fact, it’s getting two of them. Later this year, the Serbian part of Stara Planina, a mountainous area of rolling meadows, wild lakes and hidden waterfalls spanning the border with Bulgaria, joins the eastern mountains of Kučaj-Beljanica, the largest limestone massif in the country, in being raised to national park status. The former is already firmly on hiker’s radars, with Midžor peak (2,170m) a worthy challenge to walkers and climbers alike. Kučaj-Beljanica is less well known, though makes a wild side-trip from the nearby city of Niš and its impressive Ottoman fort.

One of the many cultural victims of the lockdown was the National Gallery’s Raphael exhibition (pictured), originally planned for 2020 to mark 500 years since the death of the Renaissance master. Now it’s finally here, exploring the career of an artist whose influence belies the fact that he died at just 37. 9 April-31 July; nationalgallery.org.uk In these often bizarre times, the stage is set for the Tate Modern’s new Surrealism Beyond Borders exhibition, which charts the birth of the movement from Paris in 1924, looking at how it remained, at its core, a way for artists to interrogate the world around them. Look out for works by Magritte, Picasso, Dali and Miro. Until 29 August; tate.org.uk Last up is The Royal Academy’s Kyōsai: The Israel Goldman Collection, which brings together the works of Japanese painter Kawanabe Kyōsai (1831–89), who remains a hugely influential figure in everything from Manga to tattoo art. His ability to bridge pop culture and high art comes under scrutiny in what looks an intriguing show. Until 19 June; royalacademy.org.uk

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Hero guide rescues Ukrainian families

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Insight Vacations’ Tim Pendlebury (pictured, far left), who was highly commended at the Wanderlust Guide Awards in 2019, has been helping Ukrainian refugees and welcoming them into his home in Poland. The awardwinning guide has been travelling back and forth from the Ukrainian border to drop off supplies and pick up numerous families who have been fleeing the country for safety. Tim said: “We will offer our help at the border in whatever capacity we can.” He has also been spreading awareness and has raised more than £10,000 for a charity providing much-needed assistance in Ukraine. Offer your support to Tim on Facebook (InsightTim)

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The National Trust has obtained 420 acres of land surrounding Stonehenge, saving the natural area before it’s destroyed by modern agriculture. The two sites acquired, including part of the Avenue, a pathway from the River Avon up to the Stonehenge circle, will be returned to their natural chalk grassland state and eventually opened to the public. Also, if you want to learn more about the history of this monument, pay a visit to the World of Stonehenge (until 17 July) at the British Museum (britishmuseum.org) in London, which follows the story of Neolithic Britain. nationaltrust.org.uk

Shutterstock; Tim Pendlebury

Back to nature at Stonehenge

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Officially opening in late 2022 is the eleventh, and newest, Great Walk in New Zealand. The Tuatapere Hump Ridge Track lies in the southernmost reaches of the South Island and traverses spectacular coastline and ancient forests, ascending alpine mountains and fording historic viaducts. The three-day trekking route, which crosses parts of Fiordland National Park, has been both conserved and upgraded, and is now ready to welcome back hikers from around the world, offering an escape into one of the wildest landscapes on Earth. newzealand.com

Gaze out across an unspoilt African landscape at a new luxury camp opening in Kenya this June. Sanctuary Tambarare is set within the 364 sq km Ol Pejeta Conservancy. The camp has ten magnificent guest tents, providing the perfect retreat for those who wish to relax after spending their days out searching for the Big Five – including the last two northern white rhinos on Earth. sanctuaryretreats.com

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Getting over the hump

Treehotel in Sweden has a small collection of eight treetop rooms, all individually designed by Scandinavia’s most exciting architects. The latest instalment is a sight to behold. Biosphere by BIG (pictured) is suspended from the forest pines and surrounded by 340 birdhouses. This beautiful structure has been carefully designed to help facilitate the local bird population and fully immerse guests within nature. Bookings from May 2022. treehotel.se/en

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GIRL POWER Women are leading the way in travel at the moment. The Trans Bhutan Trail, reopening after 60 years this spring, has launched an all-female 12-day tour that follows in the footsteps of remarkable Bhutanese women. Elsewhere, tour operator G Adventures has announced that it now has female tour leaders across all its regions in the Middle East and North Africa. And finally, group travel company Intrepid has reintroduced its women-only expeditions in Peru, India and Iran, allowing groups led by female guides to gain insight into the lives and challenges of women in other countries.

Once a Federal bank, the USA’s Langham Boston has had a two-year, multi-million pound transformation into a classic American hotel, complete with stylish ballroom. The suites have New-England décor and marble bathroom floors, and guests can partake in a complimentary tour to learn about the building’s fascinating heritage and impressive art collection. langhamhotels.com Sleep inside the walls of a Renaissanceera castle in scenic Bolzano, Italy. Castel Hörtenberg is the first five-star hotel in the town and located just a few minutes’ walk from the enchanting centre. Its 21 suites are spread across four floors, with a tranquil garden providing the ideal spot for a sundowner as the light fades behind the towering Dolomites. castel-hoertenberg.com

Alamy; Intrepid Travel; BIG Bjarke Ingels Group

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ARMCHAIR TRAVEL VERSION

The cat pack (top–bottom) The lions of Botswana’s Okavango Delta are some of the largest around; actor and all-round good guy Stanley Tucci is charming company as he goes in search of his culinary heritage

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It’s wall-to-wall glitz this month, as the red carpet rolls out for the greats of small-screen travel, plus the arrival of some big new wildlife shows

here’s lots of star power on the telly this issue, with some old friends, fresh faces, new shows and returning favourites to catch up with. Firstly, book into some of the most exciting – and expensive – accommodation options on the planet with the fourth season of Amazing Hotels: Life Beyond the Lobby (BBC iPlayer), which sees chef Monica Galetti and journalist Giles Coren snoop behind the scenes of remarkable rooms in Iceland, Croatia and the Middle East, culminating with a rare gander at what’s reputed to be London’s most expensive and exclusive hotel, The Lanesborough. For those on a (slightly) smaller budget, Sandi Toksvig brings a celebrity guest to six equally characterful, often-remote UK stays, from Cornwall up to East Scotland, for the second season of her Extraordinary Escapes (All 4). Joanna Lumley also returns to lavish affection on Europe’s big hitters with her three-part Great Cities of the World (ITV Hub) series, exploring Berlin, Paris and Rome. She might not stray too far off-the-beaten-rues, yet it’s a timely reminder why these dense capitals continue to draw our attention. But even La Lumley can’t compete with the charisma of Stanley Tucci, who gets to indulge his culinary expertise and passion for Italian cuisine in the first season of Searching for Italy (BBC

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iPlayer): a history, culture and food lesson in one ridiculously charming and flavoursome bundle. Lending even more charisma to the screen this month are the wildlife offerings from Netflix and the BBC. They each boast some mega-wattage superstars, with the former’s movie-length Surviving Paradise giving top billing to the lions, painted wolves, elephants and birdlife of Botswana’s Okavango Delta as the region faces some of the most extreme seasonal changes on the planet.The four-part Dynasties II (BBC Player) also has one eye on the impact of climate change as it takes viewers from Mount Kilimanjaro to the Zambezi River. Narrated by a certain silver-haired TV legend (Sir David Attenborough), each episode follows a different pack – elephant, cheetah, puma, hyena – focusing on the family’s leaders as they steer their group to survival. And yes, you’re going to get something in your eye by the time both shows have finished.

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Smiling for the cameras

Read this! The Slow Road to Tehran By Rebecca Lowe

£19; September Publishing Figuring that the best way to discover the truth about a place is to experience it yourself, Rebecca Lowe grabbed her bicycle to wind 11,000km through the Middle East. Taking her from Europe to Iran via Turkey, Lebanon, Jordan, Egypt, Sudan and the Gulf, the novice cyclist’s oft-punctured journey allows her to see the human faces behind the headlines. Illuminating, gripping and often funny.

The Saviour Fish: Life and Death on Africa’s Greatest Lake By Mark Weston

£12; Earth Books Once one of the most biodiverse places on the planet, Lake Victoria and the communities that rely on it are grappling with the devastating results of climate change. Mark Weston goes to live on an island on the Tanzanian side of the lake, and paints a vivid picture of a way of life under man-made threat.

Wanderlust Himalaya

Edited by Cam Honan

£35; Gestalten Get a widescreen dose of trekking inspiration with this glossy guide that’s part coffee-table read, part practical advice. Taking you through Nepal, Bhutan, India, Tibet and Pakistan via maps, alternative itineraries and tips from those who have done it, this book will still look sharp on your shelf while you’re out wandering the roof of the world.

Walking with Nomads By Alice Morrison

£20; Simon & Schuster Adventurer Alice Morrison’s passion for her adopted homeland of Morocco takes her on three expeditions across it, centred on the Draa River, the Sahara

NEW BOOKS FOR YOUR BEDSIDE TABLE – OR YOUR TRAVEL BAG

and the Atlas mountains. But she doesn’t just shine a fascinating, intimate light on the life and culture outside of the cities – as well as on the sex lives of camels – but also the threat that climate change poses to this already challenging landscape.

The Green Traveller By Richard Hammond

£19; Pavillion Books It’s something of an understatement to say that green considerations are a major concern for travellers and tour operators alike these days. It’s certainly a reality that the founder of greentraveller.co.uk, Richard Hammond (not the guy from Top Gear), takes very seriously. Here he provides handy tips on helping you plan an eco-conscious trip, including ways to see through “greenwashing” and how to be a more thoughtful visitor, as well as lists for destination inspiration.

Riding Out

WANDERLUST: OFF THE PAGE It’s finally here… Wanderlust’s very own podcast. The spring series of Wanderlust: Off the Page features episodes on our “2022 Travel Hot List”, Rapa Nui (Easter Island), wellbeing in Austria and Vietnam by rail. Each episode in the first series ties in with articles that have run in the magazine and on the website, and features Wanderlust’s brilliant, awardwinning writers reading excerpts from their work and giving further insight into the destination. We’ll also be including guest and partner specials too, which have been carefully selected and will run with the same editorial values. Wanderlust: Off the Page is available from the Wanderlust website and on all the usual podcast platforms.

By Simon Parker £17; Summersdale People travel for all sorts of reasons. In Simon Parker’s case, it’s to heal. With a close friend dying and COVID-19 looming large – sparking a suppressed anxiety disorder – he sets off on a 5,500km journey around Britain on a bicycle. Along the way he discovers a new sense of hope and optimism, not just in himself but in a country blearily emerging from lockdown.

Galapagos Crusoes: A Year Alone with the Birds By Bryan & June Nelson

£12; Bradt Guides Imagine spending a whole year on the Galápagos Islands. The late zoologist Bryan Nelson’s 1968 ornithological classic gets updated with the input of his wife, June. Having undertaken the isolated, wild study with him, she further fleshes out the experience of living alone (and often roughly) in this wildlife paradise.

MAMBO MAN Fans of seeing Cuba and Cuban music on film are in for a treat with Mambo Man. Originally released in 2020, and based on a true story, it has won numerous awards despite limited distribution and is due to premiere in the UK on April 28 at the Ritzy Cinema in Brixton, London. Filmed in Cuba, the soundtrack features a stellar line-up of musicians, including Eliades Ochoa (Buena Vista Social Club), Juan de Marcos Gonzalez (Afro-Cuban All Stars), Candido Fabre, David Alvarez and others. mambomanfilm.com

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Armchair Travel 220, 1

JOURNAL Travel From Home

Art & Crafts 220

ARTS & CRAFTS

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The best souvenirs tell a tale, and if you peel back the layers of East Germany’s contemporary craft scene you’ll get a glimpse into its past – and come home with a story to share

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1 SCREEN PRINTS

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The East German city of Leipzig established a printing industry in 1650, and by the mid-19th century it had garnered a reputation worldwide. Learn more on a guided tour of Leipzig Museum of Printing Arts, which is housed in a former print works. druckkunst-museum.de

2 PORCELAIN PRODUCTION

The town of Rudolstadt has long been known for its porcelain, as the surrounding region of Thuringia is naturally rich in its key ingredients – kaolin, quarzsand and feldspat. Volkstedter Porzellanmanufaktur was founded in the town in 1762, and has since joined forces with four other companies to form Die Porzellanmanufakturen.

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BRASS INSTRUMENTS

As the birthplace of the composer Wagner and the resting place of Bach, Leipzig has a strong connection with the music world. Today, visitors to the ‘city of music’ can explore the Museum of

Musical Instruments and play brass instruments in Vogt Instruments. uni-leipzig.de

PLAYING CARDS

While the first mention of playing cards was in 1377 in Florence, Italy, the earliest known card is said to come from Germany’s Altenburg, and was dated 1509. Playing cards were originally a luxury, and the city’s middle classes are credited with inventing the game of Skat around 1810. The game soon spread across the country, and is still played today.

5 CRYSTAL

The town of Arnstadt, near Erfurt, has been associated with crystal since 1947, when the master engraver Heinrich Arlt founded Arnstadt Kristall to keep alive the traditions of his homeland – what is now the Czech Republic. The company has since produced tableware for Germany’s Federal Chancellor, the Sultans of Oman and Brunei and the Cocktail World Champion Mario Hofferer.

WHERE TO BUY… Screen prints

Take a screen-printing class at Thaler Originalgrafik, a gallery in Hall 14 of Spinnerei, a former cotton mill in Leipzig that’s now home to a hip creative community. thaler-originalgrafik.de

Porcelain

Tour Rudolstadt’s factory to learn how porcelain sculptures are made. You can create your own masterpiece and browse the shop, and buy contemporary pieces from Claudia Biehne in Spinnerei in Leipzig. Tour £8.50; tour and workshop £12.80. die-porzellanmanufakturen. de; Claudia Biehne – biehne-porzellan.de

Brass instruments

Matthias Vogt opened Vogt Instruments in 2007. Tour the shop to watch how brass instruments are made and repaired and have a go at making parts for a trumpet. Free. vogt-instruments.com

Playing cards

Altenburg Castle has been home to a playing card museum since 1923. Take a tour to see rare, miniature and triangular cards. You can also print your own set. Tour £6.80; tour and workshop £9.40. residenzschlossaltenburg.de

Crystal

Tour Arnstadt Kristall to learn how crystal is cut by diamond then polished, engraved and painted. You can attempt to engrave a flower on a glass – which is harder than it looks – then browse items in the shop. Free. arnstadt-kristall.com

Words: Sarah Riches; images: Sarah Riches; Museum fÅr Druckkunst Leipzig

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crafts to try and buy in Germany

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ALBERTA

How to go beyond the icons of this incredible part of Canada SUBS

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lberta is home to some of Canada’s most iconic sights including Banff, Lake Louise, the Columbia Icefields and Jasper National Park. But hiring a car and driving beyond the well-travelled road will reveal some lesser-known experiences...

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Start in Calgary, a culturally-rich city that makes a great gateway to Alberta’s wild places. Atop Calgary’s Nose Hill Park sits Siksikaitsitapi Medicine Wheel, a sacred Blackfoot collection of stones. Check out Studio Bell, home of the National Music Centre to see the Rolling Stones Mobile Recording Studio. Next, stroll Music Mile from East Village to Inglewood to hear local, live music. More culture can be soaked up at the Central Library where you can join the Elder’s Guidance Circle to ask an indigenous elder about their history and traditions.

Drive three hours north to Edmonton to learn of First Nations’ and Métis peoples’ histories at the Indigenous Peoples Experience in Fort Edmonton Park. After, tour the city’s Arts District before perusing the Art Gallery of Alberta.

MEET THE LOCALS

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Descendants of Alberta’s earliest residents welcome visitors to several sights including the recently opened Métis Crossing, 90 minutes north of Edmonton, which offers storytelling, crafts and exhibits about the Métis people. See herds of white bison and stay in a luxury lodge under the stars. Further south, at Blackfoot Crossing Historical Park – where Treaty 7 was signed – you can learn about Siksika language, culture and traditions. Further south again at the UNESCO-listed Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump World Heritage Site over 6,000 years of Plains Buffalo culture is preserved.

Albertans are also proud of their western heritage. Step onto one of the country’s most famous ranches at the Bar U Ranch National Historic Site to learn about traditional cowboy lifestyles. If visiting in July, why not visit the thrilling Calgary Stampede to meet modern-day cowboys and visit the Indigenous Village?

Paul Zizka

ESCAPE THE CROWDS IN NATURE

Alberta adventures (clockwise from this) Every autumn, Alberta’s larch trees turn the landscape golden; Edmonton is the capital of Alberta; HeadSmashed-In Buffalo Jump was designated a National Historic Site in 1968

For more information, go to: canadaasyoulikeit.com/alberta

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As well as its world-famous national parks, seek out Alberta’s lesser known natural spots to escape from the crowds. Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park in the south is home to elk, white-tailed deer and moose. Spend your days hiking, paddling and biking before bedding down at the Elkwater Lake Lodge and Resort. Around 30 minutes east of Edmonton is Elk Island National Park where you can search for the park’s moniker as well as bison and more than 250 species of birds, before sleeping at a nearby Edmonton hotel. Or why not spend a night under the stars in one of Elk Island Retreat’s geodomes? Tiny Waterton Lakes National Park is a haven for black and grizzly bears as well as cougars and wolves. In summer, the park is an explosion of wildflowers, making for a picture-perfect ending to your Alberta adventure.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

WORLD FOOD

Rising stars Ingredients that were staples of Indigenous cooking have seen a mainstream renaissance in Australia, prompted by fresh interest in sustainable food and an abundance of farmers’ markets, as well as the emergence of restaurants run by up-and-coming Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander chefs, such as Nornie Bero (pictured), who draw inspiration from their cultural and culinary heritage

A taste from the past

Native ingredients are all the rage in Australian dining. But Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people have been using them for over 65,000 years Words Sarah Reid

“W

hen I opened my first cafe, a customer said to me: ‘I didn’t know Indigenous people had a cuisine’,” says Torres Strait Islander chef Nornie Bero, whose second Melbourne eatery, Big Esso, recently opened in the city to rave reviews from critics. “We’re here to showcase that food is actually a really important part of our culture.” From spicy pepperberry to tender wallaby meat, native ingredients have become an increasingly familiar sight on Australian menus over the past decade. Now a new generation of Indigenous chefs, including Bero, a Meriam woman, are making traditional Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander dishes – once rarely available commercially – more accessible. Indigenous cuisine marries seasonal, sustainably harvested endemic proteins with a mixture of Australia’s 6,500-odd

36 April/May 2022

documented native edible plants. But it isn’t so different to other, non-Indigenous styles of cooking that have developed here. Bero explains it is similar to modern Australian cuisine in that it incorporates influences from other cultures, such as the Macassans (Indonesian trepangers), who were trading with Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people as early as 1451. “It’s part of our culture to embrace everyone, and our cuisine has evolved – and continues to evolve – from that,” says Bero, who has built a reputation for showcasing sustainable native produce in dishes that interpret traditional recipes and flavours for the modern palate. “Kangaroo meat, for example, lends well to tartare,” she says. “I serve it with taro chips, incorporating the root vegetables I grew up with.”

JOURNAL Australia

5 DISHES TO TRY (AND WHERE TO SAMPLE THEM)

1 Damper

A 65,000-year-old seed-grinding stone found in the Northern Territory indicates that Aboriginal people were baking bread tens of throusands of years before the ancient Egyptians. Traditionally made with flour harvested from the seeds of native grasses and other crops, then cooked on hot coals, the rustic bread known as "damper" was later popularised by drovers (following the introduction of wheat flour), as it could be carried on long journeys without spoiling. Commonly served on Aboriginal tours, and also at mod-Oz restaurants, it is now often made with wheat flour, with wattleseed mixed into the dough.

2 Namas

A light and refreshing cevichelike dish made from freshly caught local fish cured in a fragrant citrus and coconut cream mixture, namas was born out of the Torres Strait’s

pearling era, which attracted a wave of Japanese emigrants from the late 1800s onwards, who would consume fish raw as sashimi. A popular starter in the Torres Strait Islands, namas also features on Big Esso’s current menu.

3 Paperbark fish

Cooking a whole white fish wrapped in paperbark – a type of melaleuca plant found north of Sydney – infuses the flesh with a deliciously smoky flavour. Traditionally cooked in a ground oven by Aboriginal communities in northern Australia, this fish dish is now found on modern restaurant menus across the country and is typically flavoured with Indigenous herbs such as native thyme, lemon myrtle and saltbush.

4 Kangaroo

Lean, tasty and sustainable, kangaroo meat is still one of the most important proteins for Aboriginal

communities. Traditionally, the entire animal would be gutted and placed on hot coals (or in a ground oven) to cook slowly, which helps to tenderise the muscly tail, a delicacy. Today, kangaroo – available at Australian supermarkets – is eaten in everything from burgers to steaks. Just be mindful that its low fat content means it can dry out if cooked for too long.

5 Steamed pipis

Endemic to Australia, pipis are small bivalve molluscs hand-harvested from intertidal zones from southern Queensland down to the beginning of the Great Australian Bight. A staple for coastal Aboriginal communities, pipis are traditionally steamed on hot coals and slurped straight out of the shell. They are commonly served in a broth (similar to mussels and cockles) infused with the likes of kelp and macadamia. Look out for pipi dishes on upscale bistro menus.

TRY THIS... Wardandi Bibbulmun woman and native foods expert Dale Tilbrook (daletilbrookexperiences.com.au) hosts bushtucker talks and tastings on her property in Western Australia’s Swan Valley, 30 minutes’ drive from central Perth. Tilbrook also offers a bush-tucker and wellbeing experience, which focuses on the nutritional value and healing properties of Australian native foods and medicinal plants, from Kakadu plum to native river mint.

Alamy; Mabu Mabu; Shutterstock

WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Warndu Mai (Good Food), by Damien Coulthard and Rebecca Sullivan (warndu.com; £24). This fully illustrated cookbook features more than 80 accessible recipes showcasing native foods.

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SUSTAINABLE TRAVEL

Transformed by travel Amid certifications and carbon measurement, it’s easy to lose sight of how the essence of travel can itself be a powerful force for good. Holly Tuppen explores the rising trend in transformational travel

hen we pack our bags and leave the daily Having cottoned on to this and the rising trend in experienroutine behind, we’re often embarking on tial travel, some tour operators and experience providers now a personal journey as much as a physical one. incorporate a more profound sense of learning and change We don’t voice it much (what we’ve seen or into itineraries.The sincerest seek long-term change for clients. tasted is much more palatable small talk than Amid the shifting sands and glowing grasses of the Namiour spiritual state of mind), but this voyage of inner discovery bRand Nature Reserve in Namibia, conservation-led lodge Wolwedans reinvented its ethos during COVID-19’s pause, is what makes travel so compulsive and life-affirming. It’s also why travel has the potential to generate long-term emphasising consciousness and “the state of being aware and change, whether that’s creating a deeper connection with responsive to one’s surroundings”. New experiences include nature, seeing beyond cultural stereotypes or gaining fresh a Home and Heart tour, which explores their back-of-house perspective on our place in the world. sustainability ethos and activities such It’s an age-old concept. Our ancesas laying a stone circle or gardening at tors were nomadic, so getting from the onsite community-run nursery. “If we prepare our A to B wasn’t just an opportunity for Black Tomato’s Bring it Back trips imagination as carefully help renewal but an essential part of survival. travellers answer big questions, In the UK, it’s believed that people as we pack our bags, we including “How do I find a more travelled for self-renewal or reflection will experience, learn, sustainable lifestyle?”. In this case, the as far back as 5,000 years ago, given tour operator sends clients to Peru to the processional pathways along The and remember far more” learn about its indigenous and sustainRidgeway and other ancient trails to able food culture. By going with a quesand from Avebury’s stone circle. tion in mind, travellers are more likely A new term has helped refine the concept: transformational to take something important away with them. travel. According to the Transformational Travel Council For other specialists, the concept of transformation comes (TTC), this means to “intentionally travel to stretch, learn more naturally.The British Pilgrimage Trust invite people from and grow into new ways of being and engaging with the world”. all backgrounds and beliefs to “walk with intention” along Several years ago,TTC co-founders Michael Bennett and Jake local pilgrim routes. Co-founder Guy Hayward explains: Haupert combined their travel industry knowledge with ideas “A pilgrimage is walking with purpose, going on an outer jourCommunity from Joseph Campbell’s book The Hero’s Journey to create the ney to find a new inner direction.” He points out that we often centred HERO Travel Framework – to travel with Heart, fully Engaged, turn to yoga or silent retreats for a spiritual or personal journey, Spending time among indigenous practising Resolve, and Open to the unknown. In basic terms, but you can access those things through movement, too. communities and it means transformation can only happen when a traveller is At its simplest, transformational travel is about thinking joining them in open to learning before, during and after their journey. deeper and being open – a mindset critical to exploring respon- tasks that are part Of course, anyone who’s been backpacking or deliberately sibly. Pilgrim-travel author Phil Cousineau perhaps puts it best of their everyday life is one way to get headed into the unknown knows transformation is par for in his foreword to the Transformational Travel Journal: “The dirty another perspective the course. It’s not something you sign up to or tick off, but secret of travel is that so many go so far to feel so little. It does not have on the world and your a lingering aura that infiltrates your heart and mind every time to be this way. If we prepare our imagination as carefully as we pack consider place within it the senses are tickled or full-blown knocked off their feet. our bags, then we will experience, learn and remember far more.” As wonderful as the freedom of the open road is, our travels are often restricted by time. Spontaneity and open-mindedness can be sidelined for rigid plans and ambitious schedules. REALITY CHECK: EMPOWERMENT, NOT EXPLOITATION It’s important for travellers to be mindful. Make sure any community or The lure of social media doesn’t help. Travellers soon lose the indigenous group you visit has control over what experiences they host, and ability, time and space needed to transform – the reason most they do so willingly. If you’re unsure, quiz tour operators before booking. Look of us are drawn to adventure in the first place. Eric Rupp, the author of the Transformational Travel Journal, for an ethical tourism policy that outlines how they work with indigenous and explains: “The places we go, the activities we do, the people local groups or ask how they avoid exploitation and how tourism benefits we meet all matter and can have a deeply profound influence the host community. Responsible travel is a two-way exchange, and ideally, on us, but transformation is created from within. Travellers experiences should be as transformative for the host as they are for the guest. themselves create transformation.”

38 April/May 2022

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TRY THESE The Old Way, UK

The British Pilgrimage Trust (BPT) offer guided walks on this 402km walking trail, which was rediscovered by BPT co-founder William Parsons while researching old maps. Churches along the Way offer pilgrims a bed for the night at a low cost.

Eremito, Italy

Deep in the rolling emerald folds of Umbria, this carefully restored monastery is a hotel like no other. Most guests come alone, phones are forbidden, candlelit dinners are taken in silence and days drift between yoga, chanting and walking.

Alamy

Embercombe, UK

Mona Lewicka is Brand Ambassador & Head of Partnerships at the Transformational Travel Council. She recounts an unexpected moment of transformation during her travels in Bolivia…

“My companion and I were driving a motorcycle through remote Bolivian mountains. A storm was brewing and night falling. We had no choice but to look for somewhere to camp. There was not much around but this small, ruined house, which we thought was abandoned. While we were putting our tent up, someone appeared. We had been particularly fearful about being vulnerable women in the middle of nowhere throughout the trip. We feared the worst as the man approached. However, as he came closer, we realised that he was bringing us a basket full of mandarins. He hardly spoke Spanish, but hospitality doesn’t need a language. After a quiet night, the man insisted we meet his mother, who was bed-bound and very elderly. On seeing us, her face lit up and she offered us potatoes and bread. This is exactly why I keep travelling the world: to see that we only fear the things we don’t know and that life lessons are everywhere. Travelling can transform our approach to people and life and connect us to them in the deepest of ways. Let’s allow ourselves to be vulnerable and to go with an open mind and heart so that we can connect, engage and eventually transform.”

This 50-acre valley in rural Devon helps guests transform heart, mind, and soul by connecting more deeply with nature on The Journey, a five-day initiation ritual encouraging participants to embrace their gifts and passions.

Re.connect, Nepal & Switzerland

Monika Schaffner’s bespoke transformational trekking tours take clients on a conscious journey through the Himalaya or the Swiss Alps. Expeditions aim to facilitate a closer connection to nature and a change in perspective.

Tierra del Volcán, Ecuador

Tierra del Volcán’s Inner Vision Quest, one of its Signature Journeys, is a 12-day trip where visitors embark on a voyage of selfdiscovery along with biking, indigenous community visits, horseriding and camping.

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DISPATCHES

JOURNAL Norfolk

Back from the brink

The wherry boats of Norfolk had their day and almost passed into history; now they’re bringing old-fashioned pleasure cruising back to the Broads, discovers Lyn Hughes

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ou can just imagine the parties UK, but when the Victorians discovered the that were held here,” said Broads as a leisure destination at the turn of Andrew Scull as I gazed around the 20th century, some wherries were converted in wonder at the saloon of the into pleasure craft; others were purpose-built for Ardea, its teak-panelled walls the task. The Ardea was the last of the pleasure so highly varnished that I could almost see my wherries to hit the water. reflection. A small piano sat invitingly in the Today there are only eight wherries left in corner, and a wall-mounted brass ship’s bell was existence, of which five are managed by the just crying out to be used. WYCCT. They are used for day sails and charThe Ardea dates back to 1927 and was the ters, to pay for their restoration and upkeep, and also to spread the word on last of Norfolk’s pleasure wherries to be built. I could this unique historic craft. “Today there just picture elegant women Joined by some other in flapper dresses pouting guests, we drank Norfolk gin are only eight and posing in this very and tonic while Andrew told wherries left spot, perhaps spending the colourful tales of Ardea’s night here as I was about history. In 1947, she had in existence” been bought by Lady Flora to. Oh, the stories that the Ardea could tell. Conway-Cutcliffe, who, Andrew is her owner, and also chairman of according to the craft’s former skipper, hosted the Wherry Yacht Charter Charitable Trust wild weekends on her with a host of celebrities (WYCCT). He filled me in on the history of in tow. Film star and ukulele virtuoso George Norfolk’s historic sailing crafts, designed to navi- Formby, who had fallen deeply in love with this gate the network of shallow rivers and lakes that part of the world and had even bought a house make up the 300sq km area known as the Norfolk here, was known to be a regular. and Suffolk Broads. In the late 1950s, after a couple more changes Wherries date back to the early 17th century, of ownership, the Ardea was taken to Paris to be when they were used as trading craft to ferry used as a houseboat. By the mid 1960s, she had cargo across the area. They were made redun- been bought by a Parisian madame and was being dant when the railways reached this part of the used by her “girls” for somewhere to rest. She ⊲

WHAT TO SPOT Bittern You’ll hear one long before you ever see it. The bittern (or “butterbump” as it’s known in Norfolk) has a sonic-boom of a mating call, which can be heard up to 2km away (March–June). It’s one of the rarest breeding birds in the UK, so a sighting is special. Chinese water deer This tiny, shy deer was brought to the UK in the 19th century. Today it is faring better in the British wilds than back in its native Asia. It hides among the tall plants in the fens and is a powerful swimmer when required.

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Swallowtail The pale-yellow and black swallowtail is one of the UK’s most exotic butterflies, yet it’s increasingly rare since the 19th century. Look out for them flitting around the milkweed blooms.

Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy; Wherry Yacht Charter

Otter Otters were in danger of disappearing from the Broads in the 1970s. Habitat loss threatened their very existence, and were it not for conservation bodies stepping in, they might have been lost. Now they’re thriving and can be spotted on riverbanks across the area, usually at dawn or dusk.

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Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy; Wherry Yacht Charter

Mast from the past (clockwise from top left) The White Moth was the last wherry yacht to be built and was a sister vessel to two others of a similar design – it had to be saved from destruction in 1985 and took four years to restore; the Albion was originally built for a firm of Bungay maltsters, and her first job was hauling coal – now she carries visitors; day-trippers aboard the White Moth; the Hathor lies moored on the River Ant by How Hill; otters can often be spotted on the Broads; you know the Ardea is no ordinary vessel when you notice that there’s a piano in the corner of her lower deck; (previous spread) almost time for sundowners on the White Moth

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JOURNAL Norfolk

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was then owned by a Frenchman for nearly 40 drinks. A slightly raised area may have been years and used as a charter vessel around the where a cot lay, or a dog bed. canals of France, Belgium, the Netherlands and After breakfast, we transferred to a yacht wherry, Germany, before being brought back to Norfolk the White Moth. Dating back to 1915, she would in 2005 and restored to her former glory. have been built with racing in mind, and was the It was a warm August evening, so after dinner last yacht wherry to take to the water. After a cheqat a local pub, we headed back to the Ardea and uered history of mixed fortunes – as a charter, sat on her roof. A few swans and ducks had milled a houseboat, being sunk and then neglected – she around the boat earlier in the evening, but now was restored to her former glory in the late 1980s. a bevy of swans was glidWe headed off along the ing by – I lost count after River Bure, and skipper Dean 40 or so. I then realised Howard instructed two of our “A shape arced party to get on the winch at that they were following into view and a kayak that had stopped the bow of the boat and wind I grabbed my further up to throw out until the sail was raised. We all food for them. smiled at the sight of the large binoculars. It was It was then time to lie white sail standing proud as an otter fishing by Dean tacked along the river. back on the sloping roof and look to the skies. The Our route was lined with the banks” Perseid meteor shower holiday homes and desirable houses, most with characterwas already at its peak, and shooting stars were leaving trails across the istic thatched roofs made from local reeds. We heavens. With little light pollution, and the only even passed the mansion that belonged to the late sound that of lapping water, we each sank into George Formby. Pleasure boats went by, some a spellbound reverie. with smiling passengers waving at us or taking a Reluctantly deciding it was time for bed, I slept photograph; one or two impatiently tried to pass well in my wood-panelled state room, which us despite the 4mph limit. Then the banks on each was like a museum piece with its brass fittings, side got wilder and more natural, and we started original wardrobe and cupboard. A hatch at one to see herons, butterflies, wildflowers and dragonend would have been used for passing through flies rather than other boats.

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Life on the Broads (this page; clockwise from bottom left) the original brass bell from the Ardea; forget the 1920s celeb parties, pleasure cruising has become a family day out; swans cruise the Broads like gangs of pale delinquents; the lost art of quanting; you can see how streamlined the White Moth is when compared with the larger Ardea; (right page; clockwise from top left) the Egyptian-themed marquetry of the Hathor recalls the sad story of the Colman family; volunteers man the White Moth; the Hathor’s interior has inlaid lotus flowers of teak and dyed sycamore in the saloon, while animals and other symbols adorn the door; the Hathor can be visited at How Hill House

Wherry Yacht Charter

NEED TO KNOW

We turned onto Wroxham Broad, a lively wind blowing across its vast expanse. While people refer to the whole area as the Broads, a broad is the name given to the shallow lakes that pepper the area. It was finally proved in the 1960s that these were man-made rather than naturally occuring, and that they began as pits that had been dug for peat to provide fuel during medieval times. In one area, dozens of children were having dinghy sailing lessons. In the distance, we could see another wherry, the privately-owned Solace. I found myself nodding to her. Dean manoeuvred the White Moth around the broad, using the wind to give us a taste of her speed under sail, and I marvelled at his handling of her as he stood braced against the tiller and seemed to be part of the wherry itself. We headed to one side of the Broad and stopped for lunch in a secluded spot. As we munched on sandwiches, I kept watching the water between a fallen tree and the bank, curious at the ripples. A shape arced into view and I grabbed my binoculars. It was an otter, presumably fishing, and we all traced its progress for a while as the fish in its path jumped out of the water in an effort to get away. We headed back to base but my weekend of wherries wasn’t yet over as I drove a few miles to How Hill, site of an educational trust and where another very special pleasure wherry was based

for the summer. Dating back to 1905, the Hathor, named after the Egyptian goddess of love and beauty, was commissioned by the Colman family (of mustard fame). I hadn’t read up on her before my visit and, on boarding, I was startled by her dazzling interior, her sycamore-panelled walls embellished with Egyptian hieroglyphs formed by the use of inlaid teak. The Hathor had been built in memory of Alan Colman, son of Jeremiah Colman, an MP and owner of the family company. In 1897, suffering from tuberculosis, he went to Egypt in an attempt to improve his health. The family chartered a dahabiyah, a traditional sailing barge, for a Nile cruise from Cairo to Luxor. Alan sadly passed away a few days afterwards but his sisters, knowing how much he had loved the dahabiyah journey, commissioned the Hathor a few years later. Its interior was designed by prominent architect Edward Boardman, who married into the Colman family and lived in How Hill House, its Egyptian-themed symbols and fittings copied from originals on display in the British museum. That night, I dreamt of young Alan Colman and his Nile cruise. And then the dream morphed into a sparkling party aboard the Ardea. I don't think I was in a flapper dress, but I will certainly make more of an effort to look the part next time I have the privilege of staying on her.

Wherry Yacht Charter (wherryyachtcharter.org) offers a programme of day sailings and also private charters. The season for both is May to September but trips depend on skipper and crew availability. Up to ten passengers can be taken on day sailings and they cost £50 per person. Private day charters (up to 12 people) are £425 on weekdays, £450 at weekends. A weekend charter from Friday to Sunday evening costs £995 for a maximum of ten people. The wherries are offered on a self-catering basis and facilities include a fully equipped galley with hob, oven and fridge, a toilet, washbasins and a shower (White Moth only). Each saloon provides both daytime living space and four berths, and features a yacht piano. For overnight charters you need to provide your own bedding. The Hathor (pictured below) is in residence at How Hill (howhilltrust.org. uk) for the summer (June to September), with staffed viewings from 10am to 5pm whenever volunteers are available and if she is not in use for sailing. Please contact the Trust to confirm availability if you are making a special trip. Viewings are always free, but donations are more than appreciated.

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Gear 220

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Niko Camera Sling 3.0, £130 This bag’s cross-body strap with quick release buckle and top zip opening means your camera gear is always accessible at speed. Its fully customisable main compartment and pockets (to organise cables, cards, film) even have room for a full DSLR with 70–200mm lens. chromeindustries.com

JET CANDY

Travel Essence, £14.99 Now that we are travelling long-haul and crossing time zones again, it helps to keep your body clock in check. This 100% natural remedy claims to work on your jet lag and ease anxiety. Made from the essences of five flowers, it is said to also help with ailments from sea, road or rail travel. jet-candy.com

NIKON

Monarch M7+ 8x30, £499 Going on safari? These new binoculars from Nikon are aimed at bird watchers and wildlife lovers, working well at either dawn or dusk. With an extraordinarily wide 60.3° apparent field of view, they have outstanding clarity and are lightweight, robust and waterproof (up to 1m). nikon.com

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POCKETALK

Pocketalk Plus, £299 We were already fans of the Pocketalk, a portable, AI-powered instant voice-translator that can translate 82 languages at the touch of a button. Its new Plus device has a 40% larger display and a longer battery life (192 hours). It also comes with a complimentary two-year mobile data plan that can be used in 130 countries and regions. uk.pocketalk.com

TENTBOX

Cargo roof tent, £2,495 A Tentbox allows you to convert any car into a campervan by adding a sleeping pod onto the roof, and now the company’s flagship model has just had an upgrade that includes space-savvy storage for your bedding. Taking just 45 seconds to set up, the TentBox Cargo includes ladder, mattress and fixing kit. tentbox.com

PEAK DESIGN

30L Travel Backpack, £199 Small but mighty, this expandable bag meets international carry-on requirements and is suitable as a day pack or weekender. Made with travel in mind, it has a waterproof shell, stowable shoulder straps, handy organiser pockets, a laptop sleeve and works with Peak Design’s packing and camera cubes and pouches. peakdesign.com

6 ways to set you up for spring Flowers are blooming, wildlife is stirring and it’s time to get back on the road again, so check out our gear tips for how to make your spring escape even easier 46 April/May 2022

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The Wanderlust Club has a great range of exclusive offers, competitions and events for our members – here are just a few. Already a member? Head to wanderlustmagazine. com/your-wanderlust to find out more. Missing out? To join the Club, turn to page 136

WIN! A Pocketalk S

Keen photographers will have no excuse to ever miss a shot again with this easy-to-access new camera bag by Chrome. It’s big enough to fit a full DSLR with a 70-200mm lens, and it has multiple pockets for your cables and cards. We have two of these extremely handy bags to give away to lucky winners.

Pocketalk is a portable, AI-powered instant two-way voice translation device that has the ability to translate 82 languages in over 130 countries and regions. It also translates text and signs, and can convert currency, length, width and temperature. We have two of the Pocketalk S devices to give away.

VIRTUAL EVENT: Alice Morrison – Walking with Nomads (date tbc)

FREE GIFT: Claim your free gift! Or choose to donate

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WIN! A Niko Camera Sling 3.0

15% OFF! All purchases on the Stanfords website Stanfords is the UK’s leading specialist retailer of maps, travel books and accessories. Established in 1853, it has become an essential first port of call for adventurers and armchair travellers alike, including such luminaries as Captain Scott, Ernest Shackleton, Florence Nightingale, Ranulph Fiennes and Michael Palin.

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We go live to the Atlas Mountains, Morocco, where adventurer and broadcaster Alice Morrison will talk about her new book, Walking with Nomads, a story of trekking the Sahara with camels, discovering lost cities and dinosaur footprints, and the joy of the wilderness.

Calling all Wanderlust Club members! Every year, you get to claim one free gift. It’s a little surprise from us to you. This year, however, you can not only choose from five gift options, but you can also make your gift a gift, meaning we’ll instead make a donation on your behalf to a critical cause or special project. See page 136 for further information

91WLMAPR22267.pgs 25.03.2022 08:56

WANDERSLEEPS

Sri Lanka Dream Stays

From hill-country escapes and colonial mansions to sustainable eco-stays nestled within their own reserve – find your perfect Sri Lankan hideaway… Reviewed by Emma Boyle & George Kipouros

48 April/May 2022

JOURNAL Sri Lanka

AMANGALLA

One of Sri Lanka’s oldest surviving hotels occupies an imposing 17th-century Dutch colonial building in storied Galle. For centuries, before Aman Resorts reimagined the site, it was known as the New Oriental Hotel, an institution woven into the rich tapestry of Asia’s best-preserved fortified city.With its double-height ceilings, original polished-teak floors, period furniture and 19th- and early-20th-century memorabilia dating from the building’s former lives, stays invite guests to experience a bygone era. It’s an atmospheric insight into the many chapters of UNESCO-listed Galle, and it’s not short of perks. All the rooms here enjoy king-size four-poster antique beds, freestanding baths and come with the exceptional, highly-personalised service Aman is known for.There’s no better place to experience Galle’s many layers of history than at Amangalla. Rooms from £340 per night (room only); amangalla.com

The Zaal (Great Hall) Amangalla’s imposing entrance hall, with its high ceilings, overhead fans and chandeliers, is known for its silver-stand afternoon tea

Aman Resorts; Karpaha Sands

KARPAHA SANDS

The 15km-long Kalkudah Beach, on Sri Lanka’s east coast, is blissfully raw and undeveloped. Swathes of coconut palms sway gently overhead and dominate the white-sand coastline as far as the eye can see. Aside from net-wielding fisher families and fellow hotel guests, there’s barely another soul to be seen at this high-end glamping resort, which has been designed to be as low-impact as possible and blend discreetly into the serene setting. The 17 pared-back canvas suites have grand four-poster beds and outdoor showers, while vivid wall-art captures colourful scenes from Sri Lanka.The resort’s enduring appeal is its privacy and seclusion, not to mention the beachfront setting, 30-metre infinity pool and indulgent Ayurveda spa.When night falls, opt for a private beach BBQ followed by stargazing under a pitch-black sky. The perfect finale. Doubles from ⊲ £155 per night, including breakfast; karpahasands.com

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This ingenious boutique property was opened in January 2020 by sustainability-first Sri Lankan hoteliers Jetwing. The result is an eco-focused luxury escape that puts hill-country capital Kandy on your doorstep. It has 26 modern rooms yet is spread across a lush expanse of almost four acres, all overlooking the tranquil river Mahaweli. Just as exciting is what they do with this land. A roof-mounted solar photovoltaic system provides more than half of the hotel’s daily electricity, while an on-site effluent treatment plant recycles 100% of wastewater generated by the hotel to irrigate the gardens. Food waste is turned into bio-gas for cooking and plant clippings are processed into a nutrient-rich soil enhancer for use on the organic garden. Weaving together Kandyan hospitality with modern sustainability and community involvement, this is a beautiful and unique stay just a few minutes from historic Kandy. Rooms from £220 per night, including breakfast; jetwinghotels.com/jetwingkandygallery

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Jetwing Hotels and Resorts; Living Heritage Koslanda; Teardrop Hotels

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JETWING LIGHTHOUSE

Sri Lanka’s most innovative architect, Geoffrey Bawa, was the driving force behind Tropical Modernism, described by him as “an architectural style of wide open spaces connected to sprawling outdoors”. Galle’s Jetwing Lighthouse is a fine example of this. Observe the rich timber design of the hotel’s Cinnamon Room restaurant, where you’ll also find Sri Lankan fine dining with a focus on sustainable seafood. Don’t leave before paying a visit to the Cetacean Information Center, dedicated to raising awareness about whales and dolphins off Sri Lanka’s southern coast. And while the opalescent waters offshore are too rough for most swimmers, a walk on the beach is the best way to end your day – especially if you time it right for a magical sunset. Rooms from £150 per night, including breakfast; jetwinghotels.com/jetwinglighthouse

Jetwing Hotels and Resorts; Living Heritage Koslanda; Teardrop Hotels

NINE SKIES

This refurbished plantation-era bungalow hotel, near Ella, surveys wooded hills, distant stupas and the Demodara Estate’s manicured tea gardens. There’s just five rooms, and its contemporary makeover feels delightfully indulgent. It is also enhanced by spoiling butlers, superb food (included in the rate) and cosy rooms. Spend your days beside the pool or picnicking at secret viewpoints, with long evenings beside a crackling log fire (nights can get chilly in the hills). Ella is an adventurer’s playground – we love its 500m zipline and variety of walks along self-guided sections of the new 300km Tea Country Trail, which aims to preserve the tea heritage of Sri Lanka. Guests can even arrive into nearby Demodara Station (known for its 360-degree sub-station loop) after journeying through the terrace-lined hills by train. Rooms from £486 per night on an all-inclusive basis; teardrop-hotels.com

LIVING HERITAGE KOSLANDA

Tucked into the foothills of the southern hill country, the intricate architecture, artisan craftsmanship, nourishing food and genuine hospitality of this forest retreat never ceases to amaze. The hotel sits in 80 acres of woodland, lawns, kitchen gardens and pepper plantations. There are just nine guest rooms, flicking between courtyard-endowed villa suites (with emperor-sized beds) and open-sided forest pavilions cantilevered over the verdant canopy. Hike up to the serene hilltop swimming pool where views reveal paddy fields and rubber plantations, or wander down through ancient woodland to the hotel’s private waterfall for wild swims and Champagne picnics. Nearby, the 10km descent from Pilkington Point’s lofty viewpoint ends with a swim in the upper pools of 220m-high Diyaluma Falls, one of Sri Lanka’s highest cascades. Rooms from £157 per night, including breakfast; koslanda.com

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Sri Lanka’s foremost architect, Geoffrey Bawa, was involved in the design of this five-bedroom beach sanctuary near Tangalle. It was his last private commission and bears many hallmarks of his iconic Tropical Modernism style, including wide colonnaded verandas, natural ventilation and open-air “rooms”. At its heart is a courtyard swimming pool flecked with the fragrant blossoms of frangipani trees. A double-storey building houses the upper floor suite Cinnamon Hill Room and the ground floor living and dining areas, while more rooms lead off from a long saffron-hued passageway. Food is a mix of western and Sri Lankan flavours, and hours-fresh seafood is often delivered to the villa by village fishermen. Beyond the villa’s turquoise gate lies Mawella’s 2km-long beach, an idyllic coastal stretch that feels largely (and joyfully) undiscovered. Rooms from £205 per night, including breakfast; manorhouseconcepts.com

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GAL OYA LODGE

This blissfully isolated boutique lodge is buried deep within the jungle of easterly Gal Oya National Park. The lodge’s nine timber-framed bungalows (plus one two-bedroom villa) are well-spaced amid the 20 acres of wooded grounds. Guests are assigned a naturalist on arrival and spend their days cycling and hiking (the sunrise walk up Monkey Mountain rewards with 360-degree views), or exploring Gal Oya National Park by jeep and navigating Sri Lanka’s largest freshwater lake by boat in the hope of spying elephants swimming between rocky islands. Many of the experiences include picnics or afternoon tea set up in scenic locations. The lodge is also currently rewilding local farmland in an effort to protect threatened wildlife, including endangered fishing cats. Rooms from £191 per night, including breakfast; galoyalodge.com

Gal Oya Lodge; Jetwing Hotels and Resorts; The Last House

JETWING COLOMBO SEVEN

Towering over Colombo’s lively cityscape is the Jetwing Colombo Seven, a stately address in the city’s namesake district. Surrounded by some of the best shopping and dining in town, it is an excellent base from which to explore the often-bypassed Sri Lankan capital. The National Museum, one of Asia’s finest institutions, is a short drive away, as is Colombo Fort where grandiose colonial mansions meet trendy bars and restaurants. The minimal yet spacious rooms feature subtle touches of Sri Lankan art, while those staying in can soak up views over the city when visiting the rooftop bar/restaurant. Indeed, the hotel’s star attraction is its roof where a photogenic infinity pool with a bird’s eye view of the city takes centre stage. Rooms from £68 per night; jetwinghotels.com/jetwingcolomboseven

Gal Oya Lodge; Jetwing Hotels and Resorts; The Last House

JETWING VIL UYANA

This outstanding eco-lodge was the first to construct its own wetland system with lakes and reedbeds, forming a private nature reserve within its grounds. This allowed the architects to integrate guest accommodation seamlessly into the paddy fields, forests, marshlands and surrounding gardens.Their design has been inspired by local rural traditions, lending stays here a strong “back to nature” theme. The hotel is located within minutes of iconic Sigiriya Rock and within easy driving distance of the ruins at Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa; it’s an ideal base from which to experience Sri Lanka’s “Cultural Triangle”. When you return, the stunning Kandyan Kingdom-inspired fresco wall at Apsara Restaurant gives an atmospheric backdrop to chef Gunasiri’s legendary culinary creations. This is a truly memorable escape that embodies the ultimate in Sri Lankan eco-friendly luxury. Rooms from £350 per night, including breakfast; jetwinghotels.com/jetwingviluyana

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The coast with the most (clockwise from this) The island of Korčula is known as “Little Dubrovnik” due to its medieval squares, churches and palaces; a bike ride up to Trsat Castle in Rijeka offers views over the town and bay; the ancient wine-producing region of Istria is best explored by bike on its Wine Trail

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

CROATIA’S CAPTIVATING COAST

With diverse culture, creative cuisine and untouched nature, it’s no wonder Croatia is on our must-visit list for 2022. Here are five places to explore along the Croatian coast…

Korcula (Zoran Jelaca); Rijeka (Ivan Sardi); Gastronomy (Ivo Biocina)

1. ISTRIA: Best for a true taste of local life

Think Roman and Venetian history; think pristine sands; think of the best bits of all three swirled together on one bijou peninsula in Croatia. In short: think of Istria, a land where you can become one with the slow pace of local life. It’s a dramatically scenic region where foodies, history lovers and adventurers alike swoon. This is a coastline alive with history, from Pula’s arrow-straight Roman roads to the city’s amphitheatre, which is so fine that the Venetians considered shipping it brick by brick to Italy. Istria also boasts one of the most charming fishing ports anywhere in the Adriatic – Rovinj. This city is bursting with historical intrigue (don’t miss the St Euphemia Cathedral with its 61m-high church tower) and cobbled streets where you’ll savour superb seafood. That great gastronomy continues in the hinterlands where terracottaroofed hilltop towns are awash

For more information, go to: croatia.hr

not only with heritage but also great local dishes, such as seafood enlivened with truffles. It’s easy to get around, too. Cycle the Aphrodisiac Trail around Livade (home of the world’s largest ever truffle), stopping en route at local restaurants to fill up on truffle pasta. Or follow the Olives Trail to explore the olive groves of Vabriga and Laterna. If it’s wine you’re after, then the 54km Istrian Wine Trail awaits in Poreč, passing some of the region’s largest vineyards.

2. KVARNER: For the best of all worlds

Eclectic Kvarner is one of the most dramatic destinations in Europe in terms of its setting. This oasis of big sky, tall mountains and shimmering islands entices along with the Austro-Hungarian opulence of the Opatija Riviera, where grand mansions, cafés and waterfront boulevards transport you back to the golden age of 19th century spa tourism. Less than

a half-hour’s drive east along the coast also brings you to the port city of Rijeka, the European Capital of Culture in 2020. Further along the coast, the charming town of Crikvenica is also worth exploring, as is nearby Novi Vinodolski, before setting sail to discover the islands of Kvarner Bay, scattered amid twinkling cobalt waters. Wildlife lovers should head inland to mountainous Gorski Kotar to walk forest trails in search of birds such as woodpeckers, owls and bullfinches. You may even be lucky enough to spot a rare wolf, or even a brown bear. After, head back to the coast to Lošinj for a boat trip to see wild bottlenose dolphins splashing in the water. Wherever you are in Kvarner, you certainly won’t go hungry. Local dishes are fresh and delicious, and include suckling pig roasted in front of you, dry-cured pršut ham and Adriatic seafood cooked in local olive oil, best paired with a glass of local wine.

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Cultural coast (clockwise from this) At almost 100 square kilometres, Paklenica National Park offers space for adventure in the Velebit mountains; the Mljet National Park is the oldest marine protected area in the Mediterranean; the Church of St Donata, in Zadar, is located on the ruins of an ancient forum; learn about and admire the Roman statues at the Narona Archaeological Museum in Vid; Šibenik’s UNESCO-listed St James Cathedral

3. ZADAR: Best for an adventure

With its art-stuffed streets, pine forest-fringed islands, rugged mountains and numerous natural parks, Zadar makes a perfect destination for the adventurous. The largely pedestrianised old core spreads across a peninsula filled with Roman heritage as well as the rich legacies of medieval Croatia, such as the vaulting Church of St Donatus, which sits by the Roman Forum. Stroll grand streets and admire sunsets that the film director Alfred Hitchcock thought were the finest he’d ever seen. The public art here is both exceptional and interactive. Hear the Adriatic sing at the Sea Organ, marvel at the Greeting to the Sun solar light show, then enjoy a

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shot of local Maraschino cherry liquor at an al fresco seafood feast in one of the Old Town’s welcoming konobas (inns). Beyond the city, the striking peaks of the Velebit Mountains soar more than a kilometre high and beckon adventurous souls. Hike to the mountain huts of the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Paklenica National Park to soar with golden eagles. Alternatively, try the world-class climbing in the park, or cycle along its quiet trails. For the ultimate thrill, throw yourself off Maslenica Bridge on Croatia’s highest bungee jump. A trio of nature parks – Telašćica, Vrana Lake and Velebit – also await in a region filled with opportunities for adventure. You’ll explore local culture, taste

the flavours of land and sea in its abundant restaurants and revel in seemingly endless unspoilt nature.

4. ŠIBENIK: Best for getting well off-thebeaten-track

The UNESCO World Heritagelisted delights of Split’s Diocletian’s Palace can be hard to leave behind, as are the myriad charms of this sultry Adriatic port city and its offshore islands. But the effort is worth it to venture north-west in search of lesser-known Šibenik. This laidback waterfront city boasts an impressive history, while the Cathedral of St James is one of Europe’s more awe-inspiring religious sights, with a level of intricacy and detail you can lose yourself in. Explore the rest of the

city sights using the Šibenik Card to appreciate the sheer drama that made it a frequent filming location for the TV series Game of Thrones. The gastronomy of the city and its surrounds has been influenced by the Venetians, Ottomans and French over the years, and one restaurant, Pelegrini, has rightfully earned its Michelin star. From food stalls to fine dining, you’ll eat well. Outside of the city, you can hear nature calling. Splash around in the Skradinski Buk waterfall, take a boat to the Visovac Island Monastery and hike around the watery oasis of the Krka National Park, or head offshore into the Kornati National Park. Kornati’s string of sparkling islands offers a real Robinson Crusoe experience, and easing out on

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CAN YOU KEEP A

SECRET?

5 hidden islands worth exploring in Croatia

1 ŽUT

George Bernard Shaw reckoned God created the Kornati archipelago out of “tears, stars and breath”, and Žut is certainly heavenly. Those who visit while exploring this string of islands seldom want to leave – not with the seafood being so good. Dine on fresh fish while gazing out at the waters it came from.

2 KRAPANJ

This remarkable little isle – the smallest inhabited island in the Adriatic – hides just a short sail away from the city of Sibenik. It’s an oasis best enjoyed from the water, whether you fancy wild swimming or diving. You’ll certainly eat well here – try fish and octopus grilled over dried vine leaves and delicious squid-ink risotto, all washed down with a glass of the dry local white wine.

3 PALAGRUŽA

This far-flung archipelago hides Croatia’s most remote islands, and there is something of the Holy Grail about it for locals. Its most distinctive feature is the Palagruža Lighthouse, but there are plenty of beaches to enjoy as well as archaeological sites. Its walking trails and tall tales beguile, too. ‘Pope’s Field’ is named after Pope Alexander III, who was so entranced by Palagruža that he diverted course to venture out here.

4 LASTOVO

Paklenica (Zoran Jelaca); Mljet (Ivo Biocina); Zadar (Milan Sabic); Narona (Domagoj Blazevic); Sibenik (Zoran Jelaca)

a boat trip into this archipelago is a life-affirming journey.

5. BEYOND DUBROVNIK: Best for culture

You could spend a lifetime exploring within Dubrovnik’s UNESCO World Heritage-listed Old Town walls, but beyond the “city of Game of Thrones” lies a wealth of cultural and natural delights in the surrounding region. To the north, Vid’s Narona Archaeological Museum is the star. It’s a modern architectural marvel built around a Roman Augusteum, a temple dedicated to the cult of the Roman Emperors, with 17 statues depicting them. It’s a literal window into the Roman world. Delving again back in time takes you to the mysterious Stećci stones, medieval

tombstones that were listed by UNESCO in 2016. Some of the most impressive lie in the Konavje region, south of Dubrovnik, in the Church of St Barbara in Dubravka. North of Dubravka, Korčula is, in many ways, a miniature Dubrovnik. It’s easy to see why its most famous citizen, Marco Polo, chose to return after his travels. Relaxing within its ancient walls, between the mountains and the sea, is a delight. Offshore, the green Mljet National Park, set on its eponymous island, is a natural paradise. The world of Ancient myth comes alive here at the Odysseus Cave, where our epic hero was said to be seduced by the nymph Calypso and waylaid for seven years. Visit and you’ll see exactly why he stayed.

For more information, go to: croatia.hr

Having been shut off as a military base during the Yugoslav era, today you can delve beyond the curtain and enjoy a unique, remote island, whether hiking or cycling. Alternatively, just take it easy by relaxing on the pebbles at Skrivena Luka. The locals will tell you that Lastovo boasts the best lobster pasta in the Adriatic. You’ll enjoy finding out.

5 CRES

If you love your islands wild, remote and pristine, then this is the Kvarner Bay escape for you. Hide away in an off-the-beaten-track campsite, recline on a secret beach and seek out villages where time has stood still. There are also griffon vultures, whose breeding grounds have been protected here since 1986. A local guide can escort you into this natural paradise as you leave the modern world and all its cares behind.

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A journey to the end of the world

Chilean Tierra del Fuego is a wild, remote and storied land, home to the southernmost city and trek on the planet Words Shafik Meghji

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igh above the glinting rooftops of Puerto dissolving completely into the Southern Ocean. Divided Williams, the summit of Cerro Bandera between Chile and Argentina, Tierra del Fuego (‘Land of – ‘Flag Hill’ – was dusted with snow, Fire’) is one of the world’s last surviving wildernesses. racked by gale-force winds and utterly Most travellers only visit the Argentine section of the archideserted. Still puffing from a precip- pelago, flying in and out of the port city of Ushuaia. Once itous hike through a forest of beech a missionary settlement, then a notorious penal colony trees, I sheltered behind a half-col- dubbed the ‘Siberia of the South’, Ushuaia is the starting point for most Antarctic cruises. lapsed cair n But to really experience life in this and watched “Tierra del Fuego’s a faded Chilean flag thrash at its pole far-flung region, you need to continue turbulent history south across the Beagle Channel to like a fish on a hook. Nearby, a stream of snow-melt trickled over the stony the Chilean island of Navarino. Its encompasses terrain, which was chequered with little-visited capital, Puerto Williams, missionaries, gold moss, the only plant hardy enough to was upgraded to city status by the rushes, epidemics, Chilean authorities in 2019, despite grow in the sub-polar tundra. To the north, on the opposite having a population of barely 3,000. polar explorers and shore of the Beagle Channel, was the This redesignation allowed it to claim devastating rodents” the coveted title of most southerly Argentine side of Tierra del Fuego, the southernmost tip of South America. city on Earth from its far larger, and I snapped a few photos before turning 180 degrees to face the now rather miffed, rival Ushuaia. Dientes de Navarino, a range of fang-like mountains, the last But while I was initially drawn to Puerto Williams by gasp of the Andes. Aside from a few Chilean naval officers on its sense of isolation, during my three-night stay I found Cape Horn and a handful of scientists at Antarctic research I became increasingly captivated by Tierra del Fuego’s stations, there was nobody between me and the South Pole. turbulent history, which encompasses scientific expeBeneath Patagonia, across the choppy Strait of Magellan, ditions, missionaries, gold rushes, ranchers, epidemics, South America crumbles into a labyrinth of sparsely popu- repression, polar explorers and devastating rodents. At the lated islands, rocky outcrops and serpentine channels before heart of these tales are the region’s often overlooked ⊲

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The long road to Puerto Williams (clockwise from top left) The Puerto Williams lighthouse, guiding ships through the Beagle Channel; the architecture of Punta Arenas highlights the fortunes made by Patagonian sheep ranchers in the 19th and 20th centuries; the direction sign outside the hillside Mirador Del Estrecho cafe in Punta Arenas, which boasts views over the city from its patio; boats anchor alongside Puerto Williams’ yacht club, which is housed inside an old wrecked ship; (left page) beaver-damaged trees on Laguna Hermosa, along the Dientes de Navarino Circuit; (previous spread) the Dientes de Navarino mountain range on Navarino Island

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TIERRA DEL FUEGO Indigenous communities. The more I learned about them, the further I wanted to explore.

FIN DEL MUNDO

Hazardous waters The wreck of a boat lies on the shore of the Beagle Channel, near the small Chilean border post of Puerto Navarino

Unless you fly, getting to Puerto Williams takes time, patience and a degree of luck. The first stage of my convoluted journey – made before the pandemic – started in Punta Arenas, a Chilean Patagonian city whose stately architecture is testament to the wealth generated by the sheep-farming boom of the 19th and early 20th centuries. I caught a bus east to Punta Delgada, where we joined a motorcycle club for the ferry ride across the Strait of Magellan to the Chilean section of Isla Grande, Tierra del Fuego’s largest island. The landscape resembled the steppe that spans much of southern Patagonia: solitary estancias, flocks of sheep, shallow grey lakes and the occasional skittish guanaco, a wild cousin of the llama. After crossing into Argentina at the San Sebastián border post, the bus bore south along Ruta Nacional 3, the final leg of the Pan-American Highway. We pulled into Ushuaia in the early evening, 11 hours after setting off from Punta Arenas. A sign at the port announced we had reached the ‘Fin del Mundo’ – End of the World. After a bout of stormy weather – not uncommon in Tierra del Fuego, even in the summer – the next morning was sunny and still. For the first time in a week, the Beagle Channel was calm enough for the Cruz del Sur motorboat to make the 45-minute crossing to Isla Navarino. En route we spotted colonies of sea lions sprawled along the uninhabited islets dotting the waterway. I was the first foreign arrival at the Puerto Navarino border post for nine days. As the immigration officer checked my passport, a fisherman hauled a net of writhing centollas – king crabs – onto the slippery dock. It was a one-hour drive to Puerto Williams along a gravel road. Hugging the shoreline, Argentina’s snowy peaks still visible across the water, we passed empty coves, clumps of orangey-red Chilean fire bushes, and trees leaning at 45-degree angles, sculpted by the near-constant winds. Ancient middens – mounds of mollusc shells discarded by Indigenous communities over the centuries and then gradually overgrown – formed a series of gently undulating hills. Thick forest lined the road, but patches appeared to have been struck by a hurricane. These tangles of broken branches and denuded trunks were actually the work of the descendants of 20 Canadian beavers introduced to Tierra del Fuego in the 1940s by the Argentine government in an attempt to develop a profitable fur trade. It was a catastrophic mistake: the industry floundered and the beavers took advantage of the lack of predators, reproduced prodigiously and spread across the archipelago. Despite eradication efforts, they now number around 200,000 and are estimated to have damaged a quarter of the region’s forests. Periodically, we passed lonely houses, but didn’t see another vehicle on the road until Puerto Williams. Overlooking a shallow bay, the city was shielded by the looming Dientes – “Teeth” – of Navarino, their dark flanks streaked with snow.

1,000KM NORTH OF ANTARCTICA

Founded in 1953 to serve as a naval base, Puerto Williams is less than 1,000km north of Antarctica; Santiago, by contrast, is more than 2,400km away. Although officially classed ⊲

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Lonesome views (this page, clockwise from top left) A hiker tackles the Dientes de Navarino Circuit, the world’s southernmost trek, which takes hardy walkers through the Dientes de Navarino mountains; beavers were introduced to Tierra del Fuego from North America in 1946 to create a profitable fur industry, but their effect on its forests has been devastating and their numbers have been spiralling for decades; having been upgraded to city status in 2019, the world’s southernmost city (not even 1,000km from the Antarctic) is a base for most Chilean activity on the White Continent; (right page) the Dientes de Navarino mountains reflected in Laguna de los Dientes

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Night falls over Navarino (clockwise from top left) The Puerto Williams lights reflect off the water of the often tempestuous Beagle Channel – the city was founded in 1953 and named after John Williams Wilson, a prominent British-Chilean commander in the fledgling Chilean navy and a politician in the 19th century; a Yagán woman with a child in Puerto Williams – the Yagán’s 19th-century predecessors were decimated by the infectious diseases introduced by European colonists; a lone hiker gazes out from above Laguna del Salto on the dramatic Dientes de Navarino Circuit, which fords the southernmost reaches of Patagonia

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as both a city and the capital of Chile’s Antarctic province, home to around 50 Yagán residents, a community centre and the Kipa-Akar, a replica of a traditional Yagán dwelling it resembles a small frontier town. The naval officers and their families, the majority of the that sells arts and crafts. Villa Ukika’s most famous resident population, live in a grid of identikit houses with white walls, is Cristina Calderón, who Ogden described as a “grandpicket fences, well-tended lawns, Chilean flags and, more often mother figure for the whole community”. As we chatted in than not, a dog house. Beyond them is a jumble of one- and her living room, Calderón showed me a book about her life two-storey homes with corrugated iron roofs, oversized satellite and some of the items – socks, gloves, scarves – she had dishes and piles of firewood, interspersed with a few A-frame knitted. “Puerto Williams is a very beautiful place,” she said. churches, some simple guesthouses and a dozen shops and “Now there is lots of work going on, and they are building restaurants. Stray horses roam the streets, pausing to nibble new things. There’s lots of change.” at daisies poking out of the dirt. Passersby invariably say hello. TheYagán community has long been overlooked, but aware“This is a tranquil place,” said the owner of the Minimar- ness has grown in recent years, thanks to a successful campaign ket Yagán. “We have no delinquency – people leave their to prevent the opening of a huge, and potentially destructive, keys in their cars and their front doors salmon farm near Puerto Williams. unlocked. It’s a real community.” This attracted widespread media Puerto Williams is also more cosmoattention, as did the 2021 election of “From the summit of politan than you might expect. Over daughter, Lidia González Cerro Bandera, the view Calderón’s a lunch of grilled chicken and salad Calderón, to represent the Yagán provided a snapshot at a Colombian-run cafe, I chatted people in the citizens’ assembly that with Laura Ogden, a cultural anthrowill draft a new Chilean constitution. of sloping scree, pologist at Dartmouth College in the dark-green moorland, DEVELOPING FAST USA. A regular visitor to the city, she was working on a research project crystalline lakes and the Beyond its striking history and with the Indigenous Yagán commusheer remoteness, Puerto Williams Dientes mountains” nity and writing a book about Tierra is surrounded by some of South del Fuego. I later met an Estonian America’s most dramatic landscapes. researcher who was studying the geopolitics of Antarctica. On my final day, I hiked the first section of the Dientes de Nearby, guarding the entrance to the naval base, was Navarino circuit, one of the continent’s most challenging another link with the wider world: the grey-and-black prow treks, following a woodland trail scattered with dandelions, of the Yelcho. This Chilean naval tug played a key role in passing a cascading river and patches of beaver destrucone of the famous stories of polar exploration of the 20th tion. From the summit of Cerro Bandera, the view south century. In 1916, it rescued 22 members of Ernest Shackle- provided a snapshot of the trek as a whole: sloping scree, ton’s ill-fated Endurance expedition, who had been stranded dark-green moorland, dense forests, crystalline lakes and on desolate Elephant Island for four and a half months. the sight of the Dientes themselves. As the sun set, a flotilla of fishing boats – which, alongside I only saw one other hiker, but back in Puerto Williams the navy and tourism, provide most of the jobs in Puerto the streets were unexpectedly crowded. A cruise ship headWilliams – cast long shadows on the pebble beach. A pod of ing to Cape Horn had docked for the afternoon, disgorging dolphins skimmed across the Beagle Channel, while petrels, a stream of red-jacketed passengers. It was a reminder that, gulls and oystercatchers flashed through the darkening sky. although neglected by the Chilean authorities for much of its existence, Puerto Williams is developing fast. A GRANDMOTHER FIGURE The waterfront hummed with construction work, there The next morning, I visited the Museo Antropológico was a new elevated boardwalk, and a health clinic was in Martín Gusinde to learn about the history of Tierra del the pipeline. This is just the start. Over a dinner of centolla Fuego. Through exhibits such as a Yagán canoe and a set gratin, I read in a local newspaper about plans for a large, of finely worked bone harpoons, it shows how Indigenous modern dock to allow bigger ships – including touristic and peoples have lived in the region for more than 10,000 years, scientific vessels bound for Antarctica – to visit the city. creating flourishing societies in some of the harshest environAlthough tourism was slowly increasing before the ments imaginable. The first European settlers were British pandemic, Puerto Williams still feels like the end of the Anglican missionaries, who arrived in the mid-19th century. world. But as I waited for my flight back to Punta Arenas, Some of them lived in Casa Stirling, a prefab cast-iron house I learned there is actually another settlement slightly further that now sits in the museum’s grounds. They were followed south. At the one-room airport, I scanned a map until by waves of Europeans and South Americans eager to make I found Puerto Toro, wedged into an inlet on Navarino’s their fortunes from sheep ranching and gold mining. This south-east coast. Only accessible by boat – though a road devastated the Indigenous population: many died of diseases to Puerto Williams is currently being built – the hamlet’s such as measles and smallpox brought over by the settlers; population hovers around 50, though can double during the others were killed or displaced by ranchers and bounty hunt- lucrative centolla-fishing season. ers. It is often described as a genocide. I briefly entertained the idea of skipping the flight and Today, only small Indigenous communities remain chartering a boat to visit, before the boarding announcement in Tierra del Fuego, notably Villa Ukika on the eastern ended my reverie. It was probably for the best. No matter outskirts of Puerto Williams. Founded in the 1960s, it is how far you travel, there’s always further to go. ⊲

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THE TRIP

Map illustration: Scott Jessop; images: Alamy

The author’s accommodation in Ushuaia was provided by Arakur Ushuaia Resort & Spa (www.arakur.com; +54 2901 44 2900) and in Punta Arenas by Chimu Adventures (www.chimuadventures.com; 020 7403 8265). He did the rest of the trip independently.

Vital statistics

Capital: Santiago Population: 19.1 million Language: Spanish Time: GMT-4 (summer GMT-3); Southern Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego GMT-3 year round International dialling code: +56 Visas: Not required by UK nationals (in Chile or Argentina) for stays of up to 90 days. Money: Chilean peso (CLP), currently around CLP1,087 to the UK£. There is an ATM in Puerto Williams but it sometimes runs out of money, so bring a steady supply of cash with you. Punta Arenas and Ushuaia, on the other hand, have plenty of banks and ATMs.

When to go

Puerto Williams (pictured left) is at its best – and typically most accessible – during the summer months. November to March: The warmest period of

the year. Daytime temperatures range from 5°C to 21°C, though can fall to below zero at night. January–March is peak tourist season. April to October: Daytime temperatures drop to between -1°C and 19°C, with June, July and August the coldest months. Snow, rain, wind and erratic transport connections can make travel a challenge.

Health & safety

Foreign nationals entering Chile must have a negative PCR test performed 72 hours before departure, be fully vaccinated, fill out an online “Traveller’s Affidavit” form, have health insurance covering COVID19, then complete a PCR test on arrival and quarantine until a negative result is obtained. Visit https://chile.travel/en/ traveltochileplan for more information. Visitors entering Argentina must be fully vaccinated, have a negative PCR test performed within 72 hours of departure

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TIERRA DEL FUEGO FOOTNOTES

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Getting there

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British Airways (0344 493 0787; britishairways.com) flies direct from London Heathrow to Chilean capital Santiago. Flight time is roughly 14 and a half hours; return fares start at around £660. There are regular local flights and longdistance buses from Santiago to Punta Arenas, from where travellers have three options for reaching Puerto Williams: DAP (+56 61 222 9936; dapairline.com) flies six times a week during the summer; TABSA (+56 61 272 8100; tabsa.cl) runs one-to-two ferries a week during the summer; and several bus companies travel to Ushuaia (Argentina), from where agencies such as PiraTour (+54 02901 435557; piratour. net) offer boat and minibus connections to Puerto Williams. Transport services are severely restricted during the winter.

Getting around

Puerto Williams is easy to explore independently on foot. SIM Expeditions (simexpeditions.com) organises guided Dientes de Navarino circuit hikes and activities such as kayaking, horseriding and fishing, as well as sailing trips around Cape Horn. Hostal Akainij (+56 61 262 1173; turismoakainij.cl) offers trekking, horseriding, and excursions focused on Yagán culture and history.

Cost of travel

Puerto Williams is more expensive than equivalent cities and towns in Chilean Patagonia, but accommodation and food costs are generally lower than in Western Europe or North America. Lunch or dinner costs around £7–17 per person, and it is possible to self cater.

Accommodation

Puerto Williams has limited accommodation options. The smartest and most comfortable place to stay is Lakutaia Lodge (+56 61 262 1721; lakutaia.com), where doubles cost around £200. There are also several basic

but welcoming and centrally located guesthouses with doubles in the £40–65 bracket, including Residencial Pusaki (+56 61 262 1116) and Hostal Akainij (see ‘Getting Around’). Ushuaia and Punta Arenas have scores of hotels, hostels and guesthouses for all budgets.

Food & drink

Sampling the locally caught centolla, also known as Chilean king crab, is a particular highlight on any visit to Puerto Williams. Measuring up to a metre from the tip of one leg to another, these monster-sized crustaceans are often served in a gratin or as part of a pasta dish. Other fish and seafood options are available, alongside Patagonian lamb, steaks and pizza.

Further reading & information

Chile and Easter Island (DK Eyewitness, 2020) co-written by Shafik Meghji, author of this article. Chile & Easter Island (Rough Guides, 2018) co-written by Shafik Meghji Loss and Wonder at the World’s End by Laura A Ogden (Duke University Press, 2021) Memorias de Mi Abuela Yagan Cristina Calderón (Memories of My Yagan Grandmother Cristina Calderón) by Cristina Zárraga (Ediciones Pix, 2017; only available in Spanish) www.chile.travel – for official tourist information on Chile www.argentina.travel – for official tourist information on Argentina Caught in the breeze The Chilean flag flies high atop Cerro Bandera, where views gaze over the Beagle Channel below

SOUTHERN PATAGONIA HIGHLIGHTS

1 Beagle Channel

Stretching for more than 240km through Tierra del Fuego, this channel teems with marine life, including sea lions, fur seals, dolphins, penguins and several species of whale.

2 Cerro Bandera

After a steep climb up to the summit of Cerro Bandera, hikers are rewarded with superb views of Puerto Williams, the Dientes de Navarino, Beagle Channel and the snow-covered mountains that line the Argentine coast of Isla Grande.

Museo Antropológico 3 Martín Gusinde

This modern museum provides an insight into the history of Tierra del Fuego and the societies and cultures of its indigenous peoples.

4 Villa Ukika

On the eastern edge of Puerto Williams, this small Yagán community is home to the KipaAkar, a replica of a traditional house that sells arts and crafts.

5 Puerto Toro

Founded in 1892 during the Tierra del Fuego gold rush, tiny Puerto Toro is the most southerly permanent settlement on Earth. Home to a handful of centolla fishermen and their families, it is only reachable by boat.

6 Ushuaia

As well as having excellent restaurants and a fine museum, this Argentine city is the gateway to Tierra del Fuego NP and the Tren del Fin del Mundo, the world’s southernmost railway.

WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Chile: Wanderlust Travel Guide – https://www.wanderlust.co.uk/ destinations/chile Argentina: Wanderlust Travel Guide – https://www.wanderlust.co.uk/ destinations/argentina

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or an antigen test taken in the country of origin 48 hours prior to travel. They must also fill out an online “Sworn Statement” and have medical insurance covering COVID-19. Visit www.argentina.travel for more information. Travellers should also be up to date with all the routine boosters and immunisations required in the UK, including diphtheria, hepatitis A and tetanus.

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Dazzling diversity (clockwise from this)The active Licancabur volcano near San Pedro de Atacama; Grey Glacier in Torres del Paine National Park is more than 30m high; sample world-class wines in central Chile; the view of Torres del Paine from Hotel Rio Serrano

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viticulture, offering informative tours and tasting sessions. There are options here for both novices and oenophiles alike, and some enviably dramatic settings in which to learn. Spend a night at a historic hacienda before trekking the rolling hills on horseback with a guide, or help out with the local grape harvest.

FORESTS, LAKES AND VOLCANOES

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Chile: Where the impossible is possible

CLIENT

4 adventures from north to south…

ith its wild blend of deserts, rainforests, beaches and volcanoes, this diverse country offers an eclectic mix of lifeaffirming experiences and thrilling activities. Here’s what to expect...

THE DESERT

LANDS OF ICE AND SNOW

In the far south of Chile, Torres del Paine National Park has some of the most dramatic scenery imaginable. Its jagged massif of snowy mountains, creaking ice-blue glaciers and shimmering turquoise lagoons hides an abundance of wildlife, including pumas, littleseen huemul deer and herds of guanacos, relatives of the llama. Located in southern Patagonia, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is the trekking capital of Chile, with a multitude of trails ranging from easy one-day walks to epic expeditions and adrenaline-charged ice hikes, not to mention some sublime views. Whichever part of Chile you explore, you’ll be in for the adventure of a lifetime.

VINEYARDS AND VALLEYS

Thanks to its enviably long summers, dry climate and fertile soils, central Chile has the perfect conditions for producing world-class wine. Its emerald-green valleys are ribboned with vineyards; some date back several centuries, others are at the cutting edge of

France Valle; Mike Hayward; SERNATUR; Shutterstock

As one of the driest places on Earth, the vast Atacama Desert is home to an array of mesmerising landscapes, from gleaming salt flats and high-pressure geysers to windsculpted sand dunes and azure lagoons dotted with flamingos. By night, it is blessed with some of the world’s darkest skies and has become

a celebrated astro-tourism hotspot, offering magnificently clear views of the Milky Way. By day, its otherworldly scenery gives way to hot springs, ancient ruins and oasis villages rich in Andean traditions. Add to all this a seemingly never-ending coastline, celebrated for its surfing and paragliding, and it makes for a wild escape.

The crystalline lakes, smouldering volcanoes and dense forests of southern Chile offer a far wilder take on the country. Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park – which encompasses thundering waterfalls and soaring peaks – is a magnet for hikers, climbers and skiers. Cyclists, meanwhile, can test their mettle on the Carretera Austral, a 1,200km-plus highway across northern Patagonia. And for a wetter escape, the Futaleufú River offers unparalleled whitewater rafting and kayaking. Over in Alerce Andino National Park, you can even explore temperate rainforests home to the last surviving alerce trees, some dating back over 3,500 years.

For more information, go to: chile.travel

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SRI LANKA

Beyond The Sea

With over 2,500 years of recorded history, those in search of archaeological and cultural treasures in Sri Lanka soon learn the Pearl of the Indian Ocean more than lives up to its name Words & Photographs George Kipouros

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“It’s a little louder than usual with the use of speakers, but et ready to experience Sri it really does help with meditation,” Viraj affirmed, acknowlLanka’s version of a full edging my surprise at the scene. moon party,” warned Viraj, “It wouldn’t be a party without loudspeakers, after my story-loving guide, as we all,” I smiled back at him. headed deep into the ancient While the scale of Anuradhapura’s ancient citadel is extraorcitadel of the island’s first capidinary, nothing prepares you for that first view of the colossal tal, Anuradhapura. Founded dagoba of Jetavanaramaya, taking over a gargantuan square in the 4th century BC, the city continued for 1,300 years as Sri platform of over 233,000 square metres. Erected in the 3rd century AD, it is still the largest brick-built monument in the Lanka’s foremost urban centre, and my gaze was pulled in world and a highly revered site by Buddhists everywhere. every direction as we drove the remains of one of the largest A dagoba, also known as a stupa, is a dome-shaped monastic citadels the world has ever seen on a busy holy day. shrine containing relics of the Buddha or a Buddhist saint. This was just the start for me. I was on a journey that would Anuradhapura boasts several fine take me to some of Sri Lanka’s finest examples, including the first built in Sri treasures, on a route navigating the “The Jetavanaramaya Lanka, the Thuparama dagoba. Cultural Triangle linking the ancient “After the Giza Pyramids in Egypt, capitals of Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa was the third the Jetavanaramaya was the third tallest and Kandy, ending at the island’s tallest building in the building in the ancient world, originally historic commercial gateway, Galle. “You’re very lucky to be visiting reaching a height of 122m,” announced ancient world” Viraj, “yet our own pyramids, our Anuradhapura, one of the holiest places for Buddhists on the island, on dagobas, are nowhere near as famous!” a Duruthu full moon Poya,” said Viraj as we drove past dagobas Today, the monument stands at just 71m high and has perhaps and palaces. Every full moon in January, Buddhists commem- lost some of the pristine glory that its former glowing-white orate the first visit of the Buddha to Sri Lanka (around 528 stucco-painted exterior once afforded. Regardless, for the BC), and I’d arrived in time to see the festivities. pilgrims celebrating this full moon Poya, the Jetavanaramaya We headed first to Mahavihara, the oldest of the city’s remains an essential stop, and I left them circling the circummonasteries. It was thronged by thousands of worshippers ference of this great remnant of Anuradhapura’s heyday. drawn to the holy Sri Maha Bodhi tree, said to be grown from a cutting of the original tree under which the Buddha attained THE SECOND APOGEE enlightenment. Dressed in all-white, pilgrims carried colourful In the 11th century AD, Anuradhapura succumbed to invadexotic flowers as offerings while loudspeakers blasted pirith ers from Southern India, forcing the city’s royalty to flee to chanting, to help with their quest for spiritual contentment. Polonnaruwa, which later became the new royal capital. ⊲

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Rock of ages (clockwise from top left) Anuradhapura’s enormous Jetavanaramaya dagoba is said to have taken as many as 90 million bricks to build; the holy Sri Maha Bodhi tree is surrounded by Buddhist pilgrims; while the rock-topped fort of Sigiriya takes up much of the attention of visitors, spare time for the exquisite pleasure gardens and complex water system of pools, fountains and streams at its foot, which forms one of the best preserved water gardens in South Asia; (previous spread) the Jetavanaramaya dagoba takes the eye, but around it lies the ruins of a monastery that is thought to have housed some 3,000 monks at its peak

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Its peak would arrive during the 12th century when, under I could identify, and I promised Viraj a visit to Stonehenge the reign of kings Vijayabahu I and Parakramabahu, striking when he was next in the UK, so he could see for himself. monuments, both religious and secular, and exceptionally advanced irrigation schemes were built. THE LARGEST PICTURE GALLERY This ancient city, as well as the surrounding plains, IN THE ANCIENT WORLD were watered by a unique irrigation network known as the As the most iconic of all Sri Lanka’s heritage sites, Sigiriya Parakrama Samudra (Sea of Parakrama). This allowed for doesn’t fail to impress. Surrounded by a lush expanse of significant agricultural development, enabling Polonnaruwa jungle, a sheer rock rises almost 200 metres upwards. Atop to export rice to many countries across Southern Asia. the summit lie the remains of a royal palace and citadel, while “Thanks to this ancient system, this region of Sri Lanka beautiful pleasure gardens nestle at its foot. still produces plenty of rice and other farming products, too,” “It’s a bit like Sri Lanka’s own Acropolis, isn’t it?” said Viraj, pointing towards the lake-like Parakrama Samudra Viraj teased me with a smile. that survives to this day. Well, the myth behind its short-lived rise and fall is certainly During the Anuradhapura era, stone became the primary worthy of a Greek tragedy: Kasyapa, the son of a king, building material, whereas brick was murders his father, whereupon a power mostly used in the construction of struggle between him and his brother Polonnaruwa, enabling the erection of leads to him building an impregnable “The exquisite many large-scale edifices in a comparfort, Sigiriya. Spoiler alert: it does not stone carvings atively short period of time. Among the end well for Kasyapa, who only had a city’s palatial and well-preserved few years to enjoy his new capital. Along of the Vatadage with a gift for megalomania, he did have medieval buildings, an architectural stole the show” tour de force stands out: the Vatadage. an eye for beauty and artistic excellence, It is a type of building that is unique though. Sigiriya was as much an artistic to ancient Sri Lanka, with only ten examples remain- masterpiece as it was a forbidding fortress. ing in existence today – and the best-preserved is found Indeed, Viraj was eager for me to see the true highlight of right here in Polonnaruwa. Sigiriya. “It’s not the rock itself nor the views from the top Vatadages were built to encircle small stupas for their that make this a genuine cultural treasure,” he explained, “but protection, and had multiple levels. The example I saw in the incredible 5th-century paintings we visit on the descent.” Polonnaruwa was built of both brick and stone, with the We stopped in front of a smallish gallery, seemingly full of latter more visible in the ornate columns supporting what uniformed minders yelling, “No photo!”. was once a wooden roof. I found the exquisite stone carvings “John Still, a British archaeologist who did major research stole the show, specifically the sandakada pahana (moon- here in Sigiriya in the early 1900s, called this the largest picture stones) on the doorways and the two muragalas (guard gallery in the ancient world,” exclaimed Viraj as he pointed to stones) which were located on the eastern façade. These what remained. “This is but a small fragment of an ancient were some of the most intricate, life-like examples of stone band of paintings that once extended to the whole corner of this rock.” Indeed, Sri Lankan archaeologists have found the craftsmanship I’d encountered anywhere in Asia. “Does it remind you a bit of Stonehenge?” asked Viraj, original painted area was about 150m long and up to 40m high. adding that a British couple who recently visited had found The Sigiriya frescoes are widely regarded as some of the it quite similar. The circular shape was the only similarity most captivating examples of South-Asian apsara painting. Affectionally nicknamed the Sigiriya ladies, these sensational creations most likely represent celestial nymphs, divine beings and goddesses. Some archaeologists built on the uniqueness of each painting’s facial and bodily features to ascertain that they formed part of a “royal gallery” of queens and princesses dominating Kasyapa’s court. Aesthetically pleasing, highly sensual – some would even say erotically charged – the unique painting style of the Sigiriya ladies is a crowning achievement of ancient Sri Lankan artists. “We are very lucky that these paintings survive to show the level of artistic excellence in Sigiriya,” said Viraj. “And that Lord Elgin never visited your Acropolis,” I added with a wry smile. Heading south from Sigiriya, I couldn’t leave without a visit to the spectacular cave temples of Dambulla, hewn into a 160m-high granite outcrop. The transformation of the five caves into masterpieces of Buddhist art started when they allegedly provided shelter to a Sri Lankan king fleeing invasion back in the 1st century BC. King Valagamba of Anuradhapura later had temples built in the caves, initiating a tradition of fresco painting that would continue for many ⊲

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A work of art (clockwise from top) Theories on the origins of who the “Sigiriya Ladies” were abound, and while they are ostensibly images of celetial nymphs, known as apsara, it has been speculated that their likenesses came from those women within the royal court of Sigiriya, whether queens, princesses or maids of King Kasyapa; the ruined temples of Polonnaruwa; pilgrims dressed in all-white approach the Thuparamaya, the oldest dagoba in Sri Lanka; more than 80 caves pock the hills above Dambulla but only five of them hold treasures, including some magnificent art and reclining Buddha statues measuring as long as 15m

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Paying homage (this page; clockwise from top left) Kandy’s Temple of the Tooth is a pilgrimage site for Buddhists; Buddha statues in Dambulla cave; Kandy’s citycenter traffic; the silver door and ivory gate at the Temple of the Tooth; Galle Fort’s 18th-century Groote Kerk (or Dutch Reformed Church); Dambulla cave’s frescoes; Chef Gunasiri at the Vil Uyana restaurant stands in front of a Kandyan-style mural; a giant Buddha sculpture at Polonnaruwa; artist Janaka de Silva holds a mask-carving workshop in Galle Fort; (far page; top–bottom) the Vatadage and its sculptures and moonstones; aerial view of the Temple of the Tooth, palace complex and Kandy Lake

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The ageless coast (top–bottom) The sunset view over the rooftops of Galle Fort, taken from the top-floor veranda of the Amangalla Hotel, reminds you that there is a living, breathing city here, not just an historical relic to be admired; the early-20th-century lighthouse and the Mosque of Galle Fort (aka Al Mereen Mosque) stand over the coast alongside a small stretch of beach that lies outside the old walls – a map from the late 18th century shows evidence of a mosque on this site even then, though the present white-fronted incarnation wasn’t completed until 1902, and has since stood as the fort’s main place of worship for local Muslims

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centuries, creating the island’s – and one of the world’s – finest Buddhist viharas (temples/monasteries). Yet, it was Kandyan artists who were primarily responsible for the look and feel of this splendid vihara today. The five main temples were mostly repainted in the post-classical style of the Kandyan School of the late 18th century. Fittingly, my next stop would bring me to the capital of Sri Lanka’s last surviving kingdom, Kandy.

locals, the city is a symbol of foreign invasion, hegemony and the occupation of their land; first by the Portuguese, then the Dutch, and finally the British Empire. As I entered, I couldn’t help but be taken by its size. Galle Fort is the largest and best-preserved sea fort not only in Sri Lanka but all of South Asia. UNESCO recognised its world heritage value as early as 1988, and its urban fabric is a testament to the productivity and craftsmanship of Sri Lankan society throughout the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, as well as the THE LAST ROYAL BASTION I was expecting to be mesmerised by this final stronghold of many artisans and expert builders involved in its construction. I was staying at the city’s historic Amangalla Hotel, which Sri Lanka’s indigenous royalty, a place that many locals I met spoke of with respect and admiration. “European visitors love once served as a residence for the Dutch Governor. Mithuru, Kandy,” confirmed Viraj as we waited in traffic to enter the city. who worked in guest relations, suggested a walk over to Galle’s Instead, I experienced a crowded, traffic-laden urban chaos bastions, originally built in 1620 by the Portuguese. “It was these stone defenses that protected the old town from that gravitated around an artificial lake, with the imposing Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Tooth of Buddha) attracting many perils, all the way up to the 2004 tsunami that devastated the region,” Mithuru explained, pointing to the city’s restored a hive of pilgrim activity at one end. The hypnotic murmur of Buddhist invocations provided rooftops from the hotel’s veranda. “Look at how different and the soundtrack as we entered the temple complex, following varied the buildings are – their colours, their frames.” As we walked around the pedestrian-friendly fort, I came airport-style security checks. The pilgrim numbers were so significant that we decided to skip the relic chamber that held across a unique amalgam of Dutch, Portuguese, British colothe revered tooth of the Buddha – Viraj added that this is possi- nial and South Asian forms. Nonetheless, the most remarkable bly the single most important pilgrimage site on the island. surviving buildings were predominantly remnants of activity I would instead shift my focus to the artisanship of the temple by the Dutch East India Company. and surrounding royal edifices, with The architectural diversity here is matched only by that of the population, most surviving structures here dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. “Kandyan artists were Mithuru explained: “We have churches In truth, Kandyan architecture multiple denominations, a mosque trailblazers, and there of cannot be compared with the magnifand a Buddhist temple in this tiny speck are some excellent icent achievements of Anuradhapura of land, and people of many ethnicities or Polonnaruwa. Its primarily wooden surviving examples of still call this home today.” buildings – of a simpler appearance and I met the fort’s artist-in-residence, more measured scale – reflected the frescoes, lacquerware Janaka De Silva, curator of The Galle different needs of the smaller, mostly and wooden carvings” Fort Art Gallery and a 100% Sri Lankan, agricultural community that made up as he proudly pointed out, despite his the Kingdom of Kandy. Kandyan artists, Portuguese-sounding surname. however, were far more trailblazing, and there are some excel“Galle Fort has always been Sri Lanka’s gateway to the lent surviving examples of exquisite frescoes, fine lacquerware world,” he told me, “with people coming and trading goods and wooden carvings with ornate decorative patterns. and artworks – a tradition that in many ways continues today.” “Kandy is the mecca of Sri Lankan craftsmen,” explained I agreed that it was certainly popular, though mostly filled Viraj as we walked past the many craft stores in town, “and it with day-trippers from the beach resorts that skirt the country’s is here that you will find some of the best-quality mementos southern coast. I was curious how locals viewed this. to bring back home from our island.” “It’s a good thing many people are coming here,” Janaka The impact of royal artistic traditions on the area is particu- assured me. “They are helping to fund further restoration work larly evident in modern examples of weaving, brass and silver- and support a growing arts scene in town.” His own unique painting style was a fusion of Asian and smithing, as well as painting. I was starting to see its influence everywhere.That night, as I returned to Vil Uyana, the eco-re- European primitivism, with Galle Fort and its rich history sort that served as my base for exploring the Cultural Triangle, prominent among his subjects. “This pearl of a town is an my eye was suddenly drawn to the impressive mural adorning endless source of inspiration,” Janaka elaborated before invitits restaurant wall. Even here, the peculiar style of Kandyan ing me back for a longer stay, so we could visit the underwater painting worked its seductive charm. gallery that he’s developing off the coast of the fort. I assured him I’d return, for I too had fallen for the island’s magic, which has captivated visitors and conqueror-wannabes SOUTH-ASIA’S BEST-PRESERVED SEA FORT for centuries. I told him that the Ancient Greeks, at the time of The historic southern port city of Galle was the final stop on Alexander the Great, called this island Palaesimoundu, meanmy cultural treasure hunt. The island’s most cosmopolitan ing “beyond the sea”, and wrote of its mythical riches. “Ah, there is so much more to Sri Lanka than most visioutpost, with its naturally sheltered harbour, had been the prime channel for Sri Lanka’s contact with the world for the tors see, and it’s true that many more treasures lie inland,” he better part of the last four centuries, serving as a major hub of smiled as he handed over one of his Galle landscape paintings, Indian Ocean sea lanes. But its past is complicated. For many which would soon hang back at Wanderlust HQ in London. ⊲

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Return of the

WILD Since Sri Lanka’s Jetwing Vil Uyana resort opened, its rewilded lands have lured native birds and animals back to the area, offering guests front-row seats, writes Mike Unwin Photographs Mike Unwin

SRI LANKA

A King of the old world (left–right) A toque macaque admires the rock fortress of Sigiriya, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was the seat of Sri Lanka’s capital more than 1,500 years ago – today, monkeys are among a host of wildlife to be seen among the island’s ruins; the nocturnal grey slender loris is difficult to spot, even in the forests around Vil Uyana

s early evening arrives in central Sri Lanka, I find myself searching a dark forest for a small animal. The idea is to sweep the beam of my headtorch across the foliage to catch its reflected eyeshine. In truth, my focus is as much on avoiding the snaking roots along the trail. “There!” I hiss, spotting a twinkle in the dark tangle. “Fireflies,” says my more experienced companion. We move on. Naturalist Chaminda Jayasekara has trodden this trail hundreds of times, so it’s hardly surprising that he’s seeing wildlife at every turn. First up: an Asian palm civet scuttling through the canopy; then a roosting Indian pitta on its perch, puffed up into an exquisite ball. Next, he spies a green vine snake suspended like a noose from – gratifyingly – a vine, its head mimicking a flower bud. Chaminda soon spots what we’re looking for. I peer down his torch beam, its glare softened by a red filter, and see two saucer eyes staring back. Binoculars reveal a small, furry, squirrel-sized animal peering at us suspiciously from a tree fork. I make out skinny limbs, a tailless rear and dexterous little fingers, in which it clutches a struggling cicada. Bingo! A grey slender loris. This appealing nocturnal primate is endemic to southern India and Sri Lanka, with its sister species, the red slender loris, found only on this island. Related to Africa’s bush babies, both are threatened by habitat loss. A close encounter is thus a serious privilege, and my eyes are glued to the animal as it takes one more bite from the unfortunate insect then clambers quickly away through the branches. As we emerge from the trail onto a gravel path, I’m taken aback by the lights shimmering on the ⊲

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lake. Back in the forest, it was easy to imagine that Beyond the fence, the buzz and beep of passing we were exploring some remote wilderness rather scooters and tuk-tuks is a reminder that we’re not in some national park; that a busy community than strolling the grounds of an upmarket hotel. But Jetwing Vil Uyana is not any hotel. Located surrounds Vil Uyana, with farmers and fisherin the centre of Sri Lanka, just 15 minutes from men working the paddy fields and lakes. But the the celebrated World Heritage Site of Sigiriya, this resort’s wildlife is impressive proof of how biodieco-resort has undertaken an ambitious rewild- versity can flourish alongside people when farming project, converting abandoned paddy fields ing is kept small-scale, waterways are unpolluted into a wetland mosaic fed by irrigation channels and pockets of natural habitat are left to flourish. from the surrounding farmland, and planting A case in point is the resident two-metre-long thousands of indigenous trees. This suite of natu- female marsh (or mugger) crocodile that found its rally regenerating habitats has produced prolific way here via an irrigation canal. Last July, she laid biodiversity across its modest 24 acres. A 2005 a clutch of eggs just 50 metres from reception. baseline survey revealed 12 species of mammal, In November, Chaminda managed to film the three of reptile and amphibian, and 29 of bird. babies hatching, even capturing the formidable Since rewilding, these figures have now risen to reptile ferrying the brood to water in her massive an amazing 27, 44 and 157 respectively. yet tender jaws. At breakfast, from the restaurant, “All these animals have chosen to make Vil I spy her cruising the lake. Uyana their home,” says Chaminda, vindicatAmid such a profusion of nature, it is tempting ing the resort’s ‘build it and they will come’ to stay put. Such is the dilemma for the wildlife approach. He has been integral to this success traveller: hang out in paradise and enjoy what story, monitoring the wildlife, advising on ecology comes along or chase around to tick off the “must and liaising with the local community. It was he sees” further afield. Sri Lanka certainly has plenty of the latter. A typiwho, in 2010, first spotted a slender loris here, immedical wildlife tour might take “Over my week at ately persuading the owners in the rainforests of Sinhato shelve further building raja, with its endemic birds; Vil Uyana, I notch the highlands of Horton plans. Since then, he has up 60-plus bird become an authority on the Plains, with its herds of species, recording 23 births sambar deer; or the coast, species from my over 11 years and advising with its blue whales and chalet alone” the BBC when they arrived spinner dolphins. Even for to film lorises for their the casual tourist, the counblockbuster Primates series. try’s big game is high on the agenda. Leopards Lorises are not the only stars of this show. As and sloth bears have put the south-eastern reserve we return to our chalet, Chaminda plays his beam of Yala firmly on the wildlife map, while Minnerialong the water’s edge, looking for one of Vil ya’s famous dry-season “Gathering” sees punters Uyana’s resident fishing cats. Camera-trap ID has arrive just in time for Asia’s largest congregahelped him identify seven of these elusive, semi- tion of elephants. aquatic felines that roam the property. There’s It is with these larger mammals in mind that no luck tonight, but his vigilance rewards us with we set out north-west to Wilpattu National Park. a brown fish owl hunting for frogs in a ditch. The This is Sri Lanka’s biggest reserve, and was the hefty bird puffs out its white throat, utters a deep jewel in the nation’s wildlife crown before three hoot, then takes flight into the darkness. decades of civil conflict placed it off-limits until Over my week at Vil Uyana the wildlife keeps 2009. Today, visitors are returning to find the coming. I notch up 60-plus bird species from place has lost none of its appeal. The star attracmy chalet alone: exquisite sunbirds zip over the tion here is the leopard, Sri Lanka’s largest predabalcony, dazzling kingfishers (three species) hunt tor. To my amazement, we encounter three in one the paddy field below; barbets and bee-eaters day, something you’d be lucky to achieve in any perch atop a thicket opposite. Each morning, African park. Two sightings, admittedly, are brief, the dawn chorus awakens me with whistling with the big cats padding quickly away into the magpie-robins and the rather less melodic yowl- forest, and the third is just a spotted tail hanging ing of peacocks. And every stroll around the from a tree. But hey: they’re leopards! resort brings something new: a water monitor News travels fast at Wilpattu. So when a scrum swaggering along a path or a giant squirrel on an of vehicles materialises, bristling with cameras, overhead branch. In the midst of all this, leggy we move away to quieter corners, finding crested grey langur monkeys crash through the canopy, serpent eagles hunting the forest tracks and while bejewelled dragonflies dodge pond herons crimson rose butterflies dancing in sunlit glades. stalking the lily pads. It’s like leafing through Emerging at one lake, we watch a testostera children’s wildlife colouring book. one-charged wild boar causing mayhem as ⊲

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Searching high and low (clockwise from top left) Sri Lankan water monitors can measure over three metres in length; the male crimson rose butterfly is identified by its black colouring broken by a white band and crimson spots; a common kingfisher surveys the prospect of a meal; Sri Lanka’s giant tree squirrels are huge, and can often be quite curious when it comes to visitors; an Indian pitta puffs itself up into a ball while roosting; the perfect peacock display; a dragonfly lands on a broken reed; brown fish owls hunt even during the day; this baby macaque finally gets the attention it deserves

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Welcome to the jungle (this page; clockwise from top left) The ruddy mongoose is native to Sri Lanka but can be tricky to spot; the Sri Lankan elephant is the largest of three subspecies of Asian elephant, distinguished from their African counterparts by their smaller ears; a jungle cat hunts in the dark; “mugger” crocodiles are known for burrowing into sandbanks to bury their eggs; a crested serpent eagle on the hunt; wild boars fighting; barking deer are a common sight in the island’s forests; grey langurs relaxing in the ruins of a temple; (right page) leopards are among the trickier creatures to spot, though Wilpattu NP is a good place to start

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SIX OF THE BEST: SRI LANKA WILDLIFE SUPERSTARS LEOPARD

Sri Lanka’s leopard belongs to an endemic subspecies. They occur in all regions and habitats here, but Yala and Wilpattu national parks offer excellent sightings.

ASIAN ELEPHANT

Some 7,500 Sri Lankan elephants roam the wider countryside and reserves of the island. Hundreds can be seen gathering during the dry season at Minneriya NP.

he chases after females, who snort and squeal jackals trotting along the verge, and coming the other way at dusk, a wild bull elephant sauntering like steam trains. Closer to Vil Uyana, we also visit the less- down the middle of the road. The beauty of this prolifically biodiverse island, er-known Wasgamuwa National Park. Large mammals are more elusive here, but so are tour- I’m discovering, is that wildlife is everywhere, and ists, and we have the wildlife all to ourselves at every scale. It’s not just about the big hitters – including a beady-eyed ruddy mongoose chap- in the national parks. Bird, butterfly or lizard, eroning its youngster along the roadside. As the there’s always something to hold your attenafternoon shadows lengthen, we also meet the tion. And as a visitor, you needn’t make tricky largest mammal of all: elephants. A small breed- choices between nature and culture: any village ing herd emerges from the forest, trailing a reti- tour or historical excursion warrants bringing binoculars along. Even nue of egrets, and we watch a luxury resort, sustainably an old bull nearby, who shakes the soil from bunches “Two sightings are of managed, can house a mini of grass before stuffing them menagerie. cats padding quickly wild On my final night at Vil down his pink gullet. away; the third is a With Vil Uyana sitting Uyana, we set out by Jeep at the heart of Sri Lanka’s spotted tail hanging in search of more neighbourhood nocturnals. We “Cultural Triangle” – an from a tree. But hey: don’t go far, trundling area connecting a trio of slowly around the sleepancient capitals, includthey’re leopards!” ing local community, past ing Anuradhapura, Kandy lakes, temples and paddy and Polonnaruwa – it’s no surprise these are high on most visitor agen- fields. But Chaminda’s spotlight keeps striking das. But in Sri Lanka, I discover, nature follows gold: a diminutive mouse-deer; a foraging ringyou around. Thus, exploring the stupas of tailed civet; a retreating pair of Indian porcupines, Anuradhapura, the ancient capital, I find Malabar quills raised like the sails of a galleon. With fishing pied hornbills gorging on the fruit of sacred ficus cats on my mind, my pulse quickens when I spot trees and toque macaques cavorting among the a telltale feline form crouched in a paddy field. ruins. And climbing the breathtaking rock cita- But it’s a different species entirely: a jungle cat. del of Sigiriya, I watch Indian paradise flycatch- The elegant animal blinks in our light, revealers trailing their tail ribbons and spy a troop of ing a white muzzle and slightly tufted ears, endemic purple-faced leaf monkeys in the forest then stretches its long limbs and stalks away canopy below. Even en route, we keep our eyes along the bank. Another furry gift from the peeled. Driving to Sigiriya at dawn brings golden Sri Lankan night.

SLOTH BEAR

This small, black, shaggy bear inhabits the island’s northern and eastern lowlands. It is unique among bears for feeding largely upon ants and termites.

BLUE WHALE

Found off Sri Lanka’s eastern and southern coasts, this huge cetacean is commonly spied in the waters off Mirissa in February and March, when krill is at its most abundant.

FISHING CAT

This shy, nocturnal feline is patterned with spots and stripes. It frequents wetland habitats where it feeds on fish, wading in to capture its prey. Found across southern Asia, it is nowhere more easily seen than in Sri Lanka.

SLENDER LORIS

Slender lorises are prosimians: small primates that predate the evolution of monkeys. Two species occur in the forests around Sri Lanka: the more common grey slender loris and the endemic red slender loris. ⊲

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ADVENTURE Sri Lanka’s historic railways chug golden shores, wild highlands and lush jungle, offering a ride every bit as compelling as the destination, writes Emma Thomson

BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN

Alamy; Emma Thomson

A platform for

Alamy; Emma Thomson

he bright skin-browning mid-afternoon coconut, rubber and tea from the plantations around sun drove me and a gaggle of locals Kandy to Colombo on the coast for export. For more than toward the cool shaded entrance of a century its locomotives rarely carried a single passenger. Galle Railway Station. In the open hall When Sri Lanka gained independence in 1948, however, there was no chattering split-flap desti- train use rose dramatically for a short period until the econnation displays, just a large chestnut omy flipped from agriculture to industry, and rails were board with the stations hand-painted suddenly eclipsed by roads. For sixty years, the railways fell neatly in yellow. A quaint hand-wound into decline. Diesel didn’t replace the old steam trains until analogue clock hung beside each one to the 1970s. But in 2010, a major reinvigoration project was denote the departure time. White-sneakered schoolgirls launched and the Sri Lankan rail network enjoyed a rebirth. Lovers of locomotives will be agog at with book-heavy backpacks shuffled the shabby-chic crowded carriages. forward in the ticket line like turtles. Back on the platform, our the train I booked a third-class ticket to Balapi“Diesel didn’t replace was 25 minutes late. We waited on tiya. The vendor handed me a purple the old steam trains benches, beside a salt-and-pepperchit – like an old movie stub – printed here until the 1970s. haired lady, bags corralled around with calligraphic Sinhalese. It cost 70 rupees, roughly 25 pence. “Hurry, But in 2010, a major her sandalled feet. Sari-robed mothers paraded up and down the plathurry,” ushered our guide, Richreinvigoration project form hand-in-hand with their young ard. “We only have four minutes daughters to keep them entertained. until the train arrives!” saw the Sri Lankan noticed grass growing between the If rail travel conjures images of rail network reborn” Itracks, a reminder that life often moves airless cabins crammed with glum more slowly here and that there’s commuters buried in their phones or trapped in their own sphere of stress, let Sri Lanka redefine an enduring beauty in that truth. The voice of the announcer crackled over the speaker – first the experience. Home to some of the most scenic rail routes in the world, the “Teardrop of India” offers views of tower- in Sinhalese, then in English – and soon after, a burnt-oring tiers of neon-green tea fields wrapped around curva- ange locomotive chugged into view. The driver nodded at ceous hillsides, cascading waterfalls, cloud-shrouded pine me as I joined the queue, grabbed the handle and levered forests and cerulean seas curling onto white-sand beaches. myself up into the carriage. Inside, the corners of the brownForget stuffy rules. Here you can swap seats to natter with leather benches were dog-eared and the floor had worn thin your neighbour, hang freely out of windows and open doors in places. Small fans positioned above the aisles spun relentlessly in their cages, and the toilet was spotless. I noticed the to catch the cooling breeze (though be careful). The idea of building railways here was first explored by seats at the end of each cabin were reserved not for women the British in 1842, with the aim of transporting coffee, and children, or indeed for the elderly, but “For Clergy”. ⊲

Golden age of travel (clockwise from far left) Colombo Fort Railway Station was opened to the public in 1917 and is itself an attraction, such is its bustle and the heady scents from the vendors’ carts; a train pulls into Galle Railway Station – it was designed to be the terminus of the Coastal Line but this was later extended, meaning trains have to perform elaborate manoeuvres to continue onwards; forget digital displays, Galle’s wooden timetables conjure train travel from yesteryear

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As we started to pull out of the station, I took a contem- palm tree-shaded homes that occasionally parted to offer plative walk through the train. Teenagers, sprightly now that tantalising glimpses of the azure Laccadive Sea and its surfschool had ended for the day, hooked their elbows out of the er-studded waves. And then, as we passed through Hikkaglassless window frames. Schoolgirls with long oiled braids duwa, a 30m-high cream-coloured Buddha loomed into and red headbands sat with their legs crossed demurely, view, a replica of one of the Buddhas of Bamiyan, destroyed watching the antics of the blue-shorted boys, mismatched by the Taliban in Afghanistan 21 years ago. The statue was socks sprouting from their scuffed black-leather shoes, as erected in memory of the 1,700 lives lost when the 2004 they giddily tickled each other across the aisle. tsunami struck the Queen of the Sea train at this point as it A young girl sat on her mothtravelled south from Colombo. It was er’s lap, her head resting gently on a moment of peaceful remembrance the window ledge as she watched “A 30m-high cream- before we rumbled on. the world spool by. I took a seat and Soon after, an older boy in a white coloured Buddha noticed it had been too long a day for Adidas T-shirt and red Nike baseball loomed into view, a some: a young boy lay horizontal on cap tapped me boldly on the shoulder. the bench, his school bag serving as replica of one that had “iPhone 13 Pro,” he announced, pointa pillow. He didn’t move an inch when ing to my hand that was filming out a pair of lads chased each other down been destroyed by the the door. I nodded. “Selfie?” he asked, the aisle, their white uniforms spat- Taliban in Afghanistan” slinging his arm around my shoulder tered with purple ink. “What’s going and effecting a model’s pout. on?” I asked with a grin. “It’s a dare!” We snapped a picture, and at the they laughed. “We have to see if we can escape getting hit.” next stop he and his friends jumped eagerly from the I pictured the look on their mothers’ faces when they sheep- train and waved at me animatedly until the slow-movishly returned home with tie-dye shirts and trousers. ing carriages inched away from the platform. It was the The bodies only served to amplify the humid air, so perfect reminder that train journeys offer an immerI moved towards the door at the end of the carriage. Kids sion in local life that can’t be bettered, and that riding parted to let me lean out of the train, the wind whipping Sri Lanka’s railways, in particular, have a hazy, bygonemy hair and drying the sweat on my skin. We rattled past era romance that is rare to track down nowadays. ⊲

Alamy; Emma Thomson

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Alamy; Emma Thomson

Life on the rails (clockwise from top left) The train, filled with local children returning after a day at school, pulls into Galle Railway Station; it’s all been too much for one boy, who takes a much-deserved nap after a hard day in class; the author hangs out of the carriage door for unencumbered forest views on the Coastal Line route – it’s a common activity on railways around Sri Lanka; a young girl watches on as a group of schoolboys engage in a spirited ink fight; the train departs capital Colombo and cruises beneath the Lotus Tower, which became South Asia’s tallest building (350m) when it was first unveiled in 2019; the author takes in the leafy views

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PLANNING A TRIP Sri Lankan trains have three carriage classes: first, second and third. Third class – or “sardine class” as it could be nicknamed – is a buy-a-ticket-on-the-day crowded affair that offers unforgettable immersion in local life. Second class has both unreserved and reserved seating and fans. And lastly, a first-class ticket buys quieter cabins, softer seats and air conditioning, but windows and doors tend to be shut, so you’ll miss out on the whole joy and freedom of dangling out of the train as it goes, which often characterises Sri Lankan rail travel. Tickets for first- and reserved second-class seats can be purchased up to a month in advance from stations and local booking agencies, and it’s worth doing so during the high season (Dec–Apr). Outside of these months, you can often just turn up. Note that vendors at stations proffer parcels of curry and rice, but if you don’t like spicy food, pack your own snacks. It’s also never a bad idea to have a few spare sheets of toilet paper/tissues handy.

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SRI LANKA’S BEST RAIL ROUTES KANDY TO BADULLA

Distance: 165km All aboard for one of the most scenic rail rides in the world. Once used for the transportation of tea, this British-built line curls for seven-toeight hours around hillsides tiered with neon-green tea bushes, their rows punctuated by the bright saris of the tea pickers, who wear baskets slung from their foreheads. Be sure to hold your nose to the air to catch occasional wafts of lemongrass, and hold your breath as the train traverses steep ravines and valleys. Look out too for the iconic Nine Arch Bridge, a colonial viaduct on the outskirts of Demodara nicknamed the “Bridge in the Sky” because it hovers above the jungle below. At Ella, be sure to hike back to the bridge later for unforgettable photos – it’s at its best (and quietest) at sunrise.

NUWARA ELIYA TO ELLA

Distance: 55km If the above seems like too long to spend on a train, you can abbreviate it by just doing part of the route. The three-to-four-hour section that snakes its way out of Nanu Oya Station, on the outskirts of Nuwara Eliya (Central Province), to the backpacker town of Ella (Uva Province) is magical. By road it would only take 90 minutes, but this route crosses steep mountain ranges, hence the extended travel time. It is home to the epic Ella Gap panorama, so snag a seat on the left-hand side for the best views and watch tiers of tea terraces – Nuwara Eliya sits at the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea production region – and ethereal cloud forests spool past.

COLOMBO TO KANDY

Alamy; Emma Thomson

Distance: 125km Ride the rails of history. This classic journey traces a section of the country’s first major route, from Colombo to Ambepussa, which opened in December 1864. Trundle away from the tuk-tuk-crowded streets and high rises of the Sri Lankan

capital and travel inland, past the serene greens of paddy fields and palm trees, to the leafy sacred city of Kandy that centres around a bird-rich lake and is home to the Temple of the Tooth, said to protect the Buddha’s left canine. You’ll be swapping dusty dry coastal air for the cool breezes of the highlands; the journey takes approximately 2.5 hours, with daily departures every three hours.

COLOMBO TO GALLE

Distance: 120km This two-to-2.5-hour coastal locomotive snakes down the western edge of the island from the capital to the southern Portuguese-founded city of Galle, which is also rich in Dutch colonial architecture. As you ride the line, tall buildings shrink to corrugated iron-roof shacks festooned with laundry, parting to reveal glimpses of the sandy beaches and clear-blue sea. In places, the tracks almost run parallel with the shore, so sit on the right-hand side for the best views of these unending seascapes, beachside towns and gaggles of wave-chasing surfers. As each minute passes, you’ll feel the stress of city life melting away.

ANURADHAPURA TO JAFFNA

Distance: 195km UNESCO-listed Anuradhapura is Sri Lanka’s ancient capital, characterised by giant stupas and temples, and is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The route from there to Jaffna, in the lesservisited Hindu north of the island, was severed during Sri Lanka’s 26-year-long civil war. Rail travel came to a standstill, with this route only reopening in 2014. Travellers embarking on the 3.5-hour-long journey today will see flatter landscapes, salt pans and rattle through the Elephant Pass that controls entry to the Jaffna peninsula. The north boasts far fewer visitors and some of Sri Lanka’s best unspoilt beaches, making it a worthy escape. ⊲

Above the arches (right–left) The train from Demodara to Ella passes over Nine Arch Bridge, which rises 24m out of the jungle scrub and tiered tea terraces below – it has become a popular tourist attraction in recent years, with travellers hiking the 45 minutes from Ella (or taking a tuk-tuk) just to get a shot of it as a train goes by; a Sri Lankan train ticket

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Vital statistics

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Capital: Colombo Population: 21.9 million Language: Sinhala, Tamil Time: GMT+3.5 International dialling code: +94 Visas: An Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA) e-visa is required by all visitors and should be applied for online (eta.gov.lk/slvisa) prior to departure; it costs $35 (£26.50) for a double-entry visa for 30 days. Money: Sri Lankan rupee (LKR), currently around LKR370 to the UK£. Sri Lanka has a closed currency, meaning you are only able to purchase it within the country. Multiple ATMs and currency exchanges are found at Bandaranaike International Airport.

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When to go

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Two monsoon seasons affect the island’s climate: the north-east monsoon (Oct–Jan), which can affect the whole island but brings strong wind and rain to the northern and eastern coasts, and the south-west monsoon (May–Sept), which is more regional and far milder. December to April: This is peak season, especially in the south. In January, Duruthu Poya festival marks the first of the Buddha’s three legendary visits to Sri Lanka. It also sees the start of pilgrimage season at Adam’s Peak, as the chilly hill country warms up. Meanwhile, temperatures in the south-west can reach 30ºC. It’s a good time for whalewatching, with blue whales best sighted in February and March off the coast of Mirissa. May to September: The monsoon season has subsided up in the eastern and northern regions, where the beaches of Trincomalee and the lesser-visited far northern city of Jaffna offer a quiet escape. It’s a particularly good time to visit the Cultural Triangle, as humidity is at its lowest, though this area stays dry throughout much of the year. October to mid-November: Low season. The inter-monsoonal period is unpredictable and often sees heavy rains across the island.

CLIENT Map illustration: Scott Jessop

THE TRIP George Kipouros was a guest of Sri Lanka Tailor-Made (+94 11 462 7739; www.srilankatailormade.com), which curated a bespoke journey focusing on Sri Lankan culture, history and archaeology. They offer tailor-made authentic travel experiences created by a team of specialists and guides. For guests looking for cultural inspiration, their private tours utilise renowned Sri Lankan artists, chefs, historians, archaeologists and architects.

Mike Unwin was a guest of Jetwing Vil Uyana eco-resort (www.jetwinghotels. com/jetwingviluyana), which offers 10 days (9 nights) full-board from £2,790 per person sharing, including all accommodation, meals, airport transfers, day excursions and on-site activities. Emma Thomson was a guest of Cox & Kings (coxandkings.co.uk), which has a 12-night tour of Sri Lanka from £1,895pp (B&B), including flights, transfers and guiding.

Health & safety

At the time of writing, all visitors must fill in an online health declaration form prior to travel and upload any relevant documentation; visit airport.lk/ health_declaration/index for information. Fully vaccinated travellers require neither quarantine nor a PCR test on arrival and can stay at any type of accommodation. This can change quickly, so do check before travel. A yellow fever certificate may be required ⊲ if you’re arriving from, or have transited

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SRI LANKA FOOTNOTES

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SRI LANKA FOOTNOTES

1 Sigiriya

Getting there

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The palace of an unstable king who murdered his father and built a fortress around him atop a 200m-high rock (pictured) is every bit as dramatic as it sounds – and the artwork found here is exquisite.

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SriLankan Airlines (srilankan.com) offer direct flights from London Heathrow to Colombo’s Bandaranaike International Airport from around £660 return. From there, the Colombo Express Bus (LKR110/30p) connects the airport in Negombo to the capital’s Central Bus Station and Colombo Fort Station (railway).

2 Anuradhapura

Sri Lanka’s original royal capital is easily explored by tuk-tuk or bicycle, as you flit between 1,500-year-old ruins and grand dagobas that still attract Buddhist pilgrims by the thousands.

Getting around

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Rail is not only the best way to travel around Sri Lanka, but to experience it as well. Tickets are cheap (a few pence for a third class ticket bought on the day), but for more comfort, or to bag a spot in an observation car, you’ll need to book in advance (railway.gov.lk). Colombo is the heart of the rail network. Trains from the capital’s Fort Railway Station can take you deep into the hill country (Colombo–Badulla line), down to the historic fort at Galle (Colombo– Matara line), or out to the island’s eastern (Trincomalee) and northern (Jaffna) tips via Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura respectively. Bus services are more comprehensive, though aren’t nearly as fun. You can buy a ticket on board, with most fares less than £1; they also mostly connect via Colombo.

Cost of travel

Massive inflation over the past few years means Sri Lanka isn’t as cheap as it used to be, though public transport is still a bargain. A meal can range from a few pounds in a cheap local cafe to Western prices in hotels and at the more upmarket fort area of Colombo. The cost of a half-day safari can range upwards of £70 for two people, including pick-up and entry fee, but this depends on your starting point.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Sri Lanka ranges from small B&B stays to plush beachside and jungle resorts. The authors stayed at: Amangalla (amangalla.com), Galle, is a beautiful heritage stay inside the fort, dating from the 17th century; rooms from £340pn. Jetwing Kandy Gallery (jetwinghotels.com) offers an eco-focused retreat in the lush hill country of Kandy; rooms from £220pn. Jetwing Lighthouse (jetwinghotels.com) is a coastal slice of “Tropical Modernism” set on the shores near Galle; rooms from £150pn.

Jetwing Colombo Seven (jetwinghotels. com) offers a slick stay in the capital and an indulgent rooftop pool; rooms from £68pn. Jetwing Vil Uyana (jetwinghotels.com) sits deep in the Cultural Triangle, not far from Sigiriya. Its rewilded land makes it a hotspot for wildlife watchers; rooms from £350pn.

Food & drink

One of the delights of Sri Lanka is its cuisine. Breakfasts typically include a hopper, a lacy, crepe-like Sri Lankan take on the pancake that is cooked in a small wok, meaning it takes on a bowl shape. An egg is cracked into its centre and this is served with a side of sambol, a ubiquitous coconut relish (grated coconut, chillies, onion and ground Maldive fish) that is highly addictive. Dhal curries and kottu roti (sliced pieces of roti bread fried up with egg, meat or prawns) are common, while the country’s Dutch influence is seen in its lamprais, popular among the Burgher community, which typically includes sides of eggplant, meatballs, egg and sambol all wrapped up with rice in a banana leaf. Be warned that the spice factor is high in Sri Lankan cooking, and that anything “devilled” is no mere boast; it will blow the roof off your mouth.

Further reading & information

Sri Lanka (Lonely Planet, 2021) co-written by Joe Bindloss, Stuart Butler and Bradley Mayhew – a comprehensive guide Elephant Complex (Quercus Publishing) by John Gimlette – a superb unravelling of the historical and cultural quirks of the island www.srilanka.travel – for official tourist information on Sri Lanka

3 Galle Fort

Galle’s Dutch fort may have a chequered history, but there’s no shaking how joyful it is to wander its streets, gazing on 17th-century buildings and exploring the local artisanal shops and galleries.

4 Wilpattu NP

Along with Yala NP, this is your best chance to see a leopard in the wild here. There’s no guarantee, and safaris start at the crack of dawn, but it’s worth it. Plus, the consolation of spying any of the park’s water buffalo, elephants and sloth bears is just as tempting.

5 Ride the rails to Ella

This hill-country rail route is arguably the most beautiful in Sri Lanka, as you wind up into tea country from Nuwara Eliya, crossing the Nine Arch Bridge – which you can walk to afterwards.

6 Spot a blue whale

Between February and March, the chances of seeing a blue whale off the shores of Mirissa are at their highest. Boats depart around 7am, though it’s worth getting a private charter to escape the crowded decks.

WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Sri Lanka: Wanderlust Travel Guide – https://www.wanderlust.co.uk/ destinations/sri-lanka Sri Lanka trip planner – https://www. wanderlust.co.uk/content/sri-lankabest-trip-planner/

Alamy

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through, a county with risk of transmission. Recommended jabs include hepatitis A, hepatitis B, rabies, typhoid and tetanus.

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Walk on the wild side (clockwise from this) Asturias boasts 400km of protected coastline; a deer in the Cantabrian mountains; almost 400 species of birds can be seen in Asturias; the 606km Nature Trail of the Cantabrian Mountains crosses Asturias from east to west and beyond; the most well-known mountain in Picos de Europa National Park is the 2,519m Naranjo de Bulnes, also called the Picu Urriellu; an estimated 30 packs of Iberian wolves live in this part of Spain; Asturias is home to some 300 Cantabrian brown bears

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5 wildlife sightings in the Spanish natural paradise

reen Spain is a place that has earned its name. With its huge swathes of lush emerald forests and its undulating verdant mountains, this is a pocket of true natural wilderness. And the region has its own natural paradise, Asturias. This is the country’s beating green heart, home to its first national park, Picos de Europa, and a mosaic of limestone mountains, oak forests and 400km of protected coastline, the best preserved seaside in all of Spain. These all knit together to form seven UNESCO biosphere reserves, home to a huge diversity of wildlife. Here are just five animals to look out for...

1 BROWN BEARS

Among Asturias’ forests and mountains prowl some 300 Cantabrian brown bears, the

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region’s wildlife icon. However, at one point in the 1990s, only 80 to 90 bears remained and it was feared that they’d become extinct. Conservationists duly stepped in and their numbers have been growing ever since. Somiedo Natural Park was created in the process and it, along with neighbouring Fuentes del Narcea, Degaña e Ibias, remains the best place to spot them. Hiring a guide will boost your odds of a sighting, as will visiting

from April to late May when mother bears emerge from dens with their cubs. Late August and September are also good for sightings, with bilberry season luring hungry bears out to feast on fruit before winter’s hibernation.

2 IBERIAN WOLVES

Wolves can be found across northwestern Spain, and you can spy them stalking the forests and rugged wilds of the Asturian

Alamy; Turismo de Asturias; Miguel A Martin Piris; Shutterstock

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ASTURIAS: INTO THE WILD

mountains. It is estimated that there are around 2,000 Iberian wolves in north-western Spain, with a large number of this population found in Asturias. These creatures are elusive but your best bet for sightings is to look for them when they are at their most active, between August and September, or during the mating season which runs from December to February. Those who are eager to learn more should visit La Casa Del Lobo (House of the Wolf) in Belmonte, a museum dedicated to the Iberian wolf and the landscapes it patrols.

Alamy; Turismo de Asturias; Miguel A Martin Piris; Shutterstock

3 DEER AND IBEX

While bears and wolves often receive top billing in these parts, deer and ibex provide Asturias with one of its finest wildlife sightings – and both are much easier to spot. Often found roaming the upper slopes of mountains, such as Ponga and Aller, and Redes Nature Park, the guttural bellows of red deer reverberate around these rocky wildernesses during rutting season (between mid-September and mid-October). It’s a spinetingling, cathedral-like noise. This autumnal groaning is matched only by the fallow deer in the Sueve Mountains – the only place in Asturias you can spot them – while diminutive roe deer are seen pacing the thick forests and craggy plains of the Cantabrian Mountains. Asturias is also home to the Cantabrian ibexes, the majority of which love to stride the rocky highlands of Picos de Europa National Park’s western massif and the verdant limestone peaks of Redes Natural Park.

WHALES

Life-affirming wildlife encounters don’t only exist on land in Asturias; there’s a bounty of them offshore, too. The Bay of Biscay boasts some of the most diverse sightings

of cetaceans in the world, and Asturias is at the heart of it all. To give you a flavour of its busy waters, seven of the world’s 20 species of beaked whale are found here, including the Cuvier’s beaked, northern bottlenose and Sowerby’s beaked whale. They are tricky to spot because they can spend over an hour submerged underwater, but guided whalewatching tours from Gijón/ Xixón and Llastres heighten your chances of encounters (as does visiting in spring or summer). They’re also not the only whales you can spy here: minke, fin and pilot whales are among the others, and you might also be lucky enough to see dolphins, porpoises, seals and turtles, too.

5 BIRDS

sightings of ospreys, cormorants and grebes, while shearwaters, Atlantic puffins and oystercatchers can be seen on a winter stroll among the plains and craggy cliffs around Gijón’s shores. Inland, wooded areas such as Somiedo Natural Park and Las Ubiñas-La Mesa Natural Park hide woodpeckers, goshawks, peregrine falcons and the threatened Cantabrian capercaillie. Asturias reserves some of its finest birdlife for the mountains, though; nowhere more so than the La Reina lookout in Picos de Europa National Park. You and your binoculars can track three different types of vulture (griffon, bearded and Egyptian), golden eagles and red kites, all while enjoying the panorama of the mountains – a memorable end to a truly wild adventure in this natural paradise.

Asturias’ tapestry of landscapes makes it a welcoming place for birds, and nearly 400 species roost here, around 70% of Spain’s total number of species. On the coast, the Villaviciosa and Eo estuaries serve up

For more information, go to: turismoasturias.es

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

BACK ON TRACK NEW RAIL ROUTES FOR 2022

This year sees a bounty of new rail adventures emerge, along with the return of some old favourites. As travel restrictions drop off, it’s time to hit the tracks once more

DENVER–MOAB Board the Rocky Mountaineer as it hits the Southwest USA Since 1990, Rocky Mountaineer trains have wound between the lakes and summits of Alberta and British Columbia. They’ve become a Canadian icon, celebrated for the glass-domed observation cars that seem to beam in visions of another world. In August 2021 the company entered the US for the first time with the launch of its ‘Rockies to the Red Rocks’ route, between Denver and Moab; this year it will run its first full six-month schedule (April-October). It’s a wild two-day ride from the cold slab-granite and snowy tops of the Colorado mountains to the Mars-like landscapes of Utah, which are carved into arches and curves only a Surrealist painter could predict. Make a stop: Overnight stays at Denver, the mid-way resort town of Glenwood Springs and Salt Lake City (which can be added on) all appeal, but Moab is what truly raises the hairs on our necks, an ideal outdoorsy base from which to explore the buttes, mesas, whitewater and rock art of Canyonlands and Arches national parks. ⊲

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Enjoy the slow route through Austria One of the more intriguing new lines to open in Europe is ÖBB’s service between Slovenian capital Ljubljana and Hungarian capital Budapest. What makes it unusual is that it’s actually longer than lines that already exist (journey time is just less than nine hours). The reason for this – and our delight – is that it takes what is very much the pretty way round, via Graz (Austria), dipping into Styria, a region of thick forests, sparkling pools, green valleys, rocky escarpments and hilltop castles. It’s a magical journey, with views along the Sava River and a route that weaves the foothills of the Southern Limestone Alps and beyond. Sometimes it just pays to take the slow route. Make a stop: Graz makes a fine halfway stopover. Admire the city’s grand and avantgarde architecture – from the bold and original Kunsthaus museum to the Baroque Eggenberg Palace – and enjoy the views from the fortress-topped Schlossberg.

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Previous spread: Rocky Mountaineer; this spread: Alamy; Journey Beyond

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ADELAIDE–BRISBANE Finally ride The Great Southern across Australia In December 2019, before lockdowns curtailed our plans, we were looking forward to the inaugural run of The Great Southern, Australia’s newest luxury expedition train, set to sit alongside The Ghan and the Indian Pacific in terms of excellent Australian rail adventures. However, less than four months later the country closed its borders. Two years on, Australia is finally open again, though The Great Southern’s short season (December–January) means we’ll have to wait until the end of the year to ride it – but what’s a few more months? Across three days the train connects the country’s east and south coasts, running between laid-back Brisbane, the beaches of Coffs Harbour, the museums and fine-dining of capital Canberra and green Adelaide (recently declared a National Park City), with rugged ranges in between. We reckon it will be worth the wait. Make a stop: Nights are spent on board the train, but of all the excursions, the highlight is surely the Grampians National Park, a wilderness of sandstone summits, rich in wildlife and walking trails. Around 200 rock-art sites scatter the park, some dating back 20,000 years.

ZIMBABWE–ANGOLA

Previous spread: Rocky Mountaineer; this spread: Alamy; Journey Beyond

Take a safari train across 3,100km of Southern Africa

From city streets to wild savannah (clockwise from far left) Slovenian capital Ljubljana is dominated by a hilltop castle that has overlooked the city for around 900 years; Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park has one of the world’s highest naturally occurring leopard populations, with an average of one animal per 2.5 sq km – roughly twice the density of leopard recorded in Kruger National Park; as it ploughs from Queensland to South Australia, The Great Southern covers a distance of 2,885km, while the average length of the train itself is more than 700m; (previous page) the Rocky Mountaineer hurtles through Ruby Canyon

Rovos Rail – a tour operator with its own train – is unlike any other sleeper experience.Yes, it’s plush, with Edwardian-style dining cars, formal costume de rigueur expected in the evenings and a wine list to savour, but that’s just window dressing. Where it goes is the clincher. Shorter safari routes in South Africa usually take a few days, but it’s the continent-spanning rail adventures that catch the eye, inching through wilderness you just wouldn’t see otherwise. New for 2022 is its Copper Trail journey, which rolls through Zimbabwe, Zambia, the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) and Angola in July. It takes 15 days, including side trips to an elephant sanctuary in Lusaka, historic copper mines in remote corners of the DRC, the Kafue River (for a boat trip) and thunderous Victoria Falls, as well as sundowners in the dining car each night. It’s truly wild, truly luxe rail. Make a stop: The stand-out is the three-day stopover in South Luangwa National Park, where game drives will likely reveal a profusion of life, from elephant herds and lolloping giraffes to stalking leopards and crashes of hippos basking in ⊲ the Luangwa River.

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AUCKLAND–WELLINGTON & PICTON–CHRISTCHURCH See old New Zealand routes in new ways

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PARIS–MILAN Find Renaissance art and mighty mountains on this France-Italy route Launched at the end of 2021, the Trenitalia alternative to the old French SNCF route, which also connects Paris and Milan, is now in service. Use it in conjunction with the London–Paris Eurostar and you can journey from the English capital to Milan in a day (albeit not on one ticket). But far better to take your time. The route fords dizzying mountain country, with some enticing cultural stops en route. For instance, disembark at Lyon, capital of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, where you can see the Roman amphitheatre and Renaissance-era mansions scattering the Old Town. Or jump off at the Savoie commune of Modane, on the edge of Vanoise National Park. On the Italian side, make a pit-stop in Turin for art-nouveau cafes and mouthwatering markets, before arriving amid the galleries, shopping plazas and palazzos of Milan. Make a stop: Also launched recently is the Italo high-speed Genoa–Naples service, which runs the length of the country, via Milan. Genoa isn’t especially well connected by rail, so take the chance to stop here and enjoy the port city’s frescoed cathedral and strong food heritage.

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There’s nothing new about New Zealand’s Northern Explorer (Auckland–Wellington) and Coastal Pacific (Picton–Christchurch) trains. They have long plied the rails of the North and South Islands respectively. Or at least they did until recently – the economic impact of COVID19 has seen their operator withdraw both these services. But the good news for travellers is that tentative plans have been announced to revive them in 2022 as new multi-day adventures. Slowly trundling the wine country, mountains and whalerich coast of the South Island or threading the length of the North past moody volcanic peaks and historic viaducts offers a Cliff’s Notes take on the country that few other experiences rival. Let’s hope they start again soon. Make a stop: There are so many places to choose from on both routes. But perhaps top pick is Kaikoura (South Island), a pit-stop on the old Coastal Pacific, where you have the chance to swim alongside wild fur seals and spy dolphins and sperm, blue and humpback whales playing in the waters offshore.

KUNMING–VIENTIANE See China and Laos on one giant train journey China has expanded its high-speed rail network at a lightning pace. Some 40,000km of high-speed track has materialised since 2008, half of it built in the past five years. It was only a matter of time before its ambition started connecting it with neighbours. Laos is first: a new 1,035km route linking Kunming, in China’s Yunnan Province, with Vientiane, the capital of Laos, opened to freight last December; when COVID-19 curbs end, the first passengers will be able to board. This will make it easy to flit between the hills, karst formations, rice terraces and rainforests of south-western China and the elegant colonial streets of Vientiane via some of South-East Asia’s lushest, most captivating countryside. Make a stop: The southernmost reaches of Yunnan are often missed by travellers, who typically head north to pretty Lijiang and backpacker favourite Dali. But Xishuangbanna, home to the Dai minority, makes for a lush escape; here you can take guided treks across rainforest wilder that anything else you’ll see in China, swim under the crashing waters of Mandian falls and visit remote traditional villages.

BRUSSELS–PRAGUE

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Do Northern Europe in your sleep

Ravishing by rail (clockwise from far left) Kekeno (fur seals) are the most common seals in New Zealand, distinguishable by their visible external ear flaps and forward-rotating hind flippers; Turin’s Mole Antonelliana tower was completed in 1889 and now houses the National Museum of Cinema; Hanover’s New Town Hall is home to an unusual diagonal lift, which zips visitors up to the dome for views over the city and the Harz mountains; Xishuangbanna district is home to many Dai minority villages where you might see folk dances and water splashing (a traditional Dai blessing)

This summer should see the launch of European Sleeper’s Brussels–Prague overnight train. It’s a real old-school Grand Tour, skipping between an array of handsome, historic cities. Obviously, as this is a night train, you’ll miss most of them. But should you choose to stretch the journey out over a few days, potential stops include classy Antwerp and canal-riddled Amsterdam, the half-timbered houses and elegant palace gardens of Hanover in Lower Saxony, the museums and nightlife of Berlin and the spa town of Bad Schandau. Waking up among the historic streets of Prague is the perfect finale, with the chance to stroll Charles Bridge beneath the stately Gothic spires of Prague Castle as the morning mists clear. Make a stop: This train, provisionally set to depart Brussels at around 7.30pm, links up neatly with the London–Brussels Eurostar. But don’t dash off – the Belgian capital is one of Europe’s more underrated cities. Allow time to wander around its gilded Grand-Place, the narrow streets of Lower Town, the art nouveau triumphs of architect Victor Horta and the magnificent ⊲ Neoclassical Parc du Cinquantenaire.

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Hop aboard Switzerland’s “impossible” train

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The idea of linking Lake Geneva, Gstaad and the lakes of Thun and Brienz in a single train journey has been a dream since 1873. The only thing standing in the way was that it was impossible. The railway connecting Montreux and Interlaken comprises two different gauge sizes, so no one locomotive has been able to make the trip; instead, three different operators run what is known as the GoldenPass line, with passengers having to change at Interlaken and Zweisimmen. However, December 2022 sees the launch of the GoldenPass Express, a new service able to run on both standard and narrowgauge track. For the first time you’ll be able ride this scenic route in one seamless trip. Make a stop: It defeats the purpose to get off en route, so make the most of what lies at either end. Elegant Montreux, tucked between the Alps and Lake Geneva, bursts with literary and musical heritage and fine wine. Interlaken, in the Bernese Oberland, facing the Jungfrau, provides access to some of the country’s best hiking trails.

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STOCKHOLM–HAMBURG Link art, culture and water in Sweden and Germany The launch of a Stockholm–Hamburg night train by Swedish rail network SJ this August promises much. Details were still hazy at the time of writing, but reports claim that it will run via Copenhagen, using the part-tunnel, part-bridge Øresund Line to cross the strait separating Malmo (Sweden) and the Danish capital. It’s one of the great rail crossings and a majestic sight to wake up to or, indeed, bid goodnight. Certainly, there’s plenty to explore at either end of this new route. Sweden’s capital, spread across a magical archipelago, offers outdoor activities as well as churches and palaces by the score, such as the UNESCO-listed Drottningholm. Hamburg, meanwhile, is not only laced with canals and the tendrils of the River Elbe but is filled with music and art venues. Together, they make for a cultured pairing and an intriguing new route. Make a stop: From Stockholm it’s easy to extend your rail adventure. Hop on a northbound night service from the capital to Kiruna to pick up the Arctic Circle Train; this service from Kiruna to the Norwegian coastal town of Narvik offers a chance to witness the midnight sun or the aurora from your seat, depending on the season.

NAGASAKI–TAKEO-ONSEN/ FUKUOKA

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Discover the south of Japan at speed

Routes for all seasons (clockwise from far left) At 1,322m above sea level, the Harder Kulm lookout gazes over Interlaken to the iconic peaks of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau – a tantalising landscape for summer hikes; nearly 1,000 cherry trees have been planted across the grounds of Kumamoto Castle and in the adjacent parks, making it popular for spring-time hanami (blossom viewing); the Øresund bridge, which connects Sweden’s Malmo with Danish capital Copenhagen is a truly remarkable piece of engineering, which required the building of an underwater tunnel and artificial peninsula as well as a bridge accommodating road and rail

Japan’s first shinkansen (bullet train) was launched back in 1964, but the country is still being linked up at high speed to this day. The latest route – the Nishi Kyushu line – is being built deep in the west of Kyushu Island and is due to open this autumn, connecting the coastal city of Nagasaki to Takeo-Onsen, a steamy town whose thermal waters have drawn visitors for 1,300 years. You could combine it with a trip on Kyushu’s newest sightseeing train, 36+3, which ran its first full season (January–August) last year. Designed by the same team behind the Kyushu Seven Stars, the island’s uber-luxurious and extremely popular sleeper, the 36+3 offers five island-wide itineraries, including a route linking Nagasaki and Fukuoka (Hakata), via the Ariake Sea coast. Together, they’re the perfect combination of fast and slow. Make a stop: From Hakata you can take the 36+3 down to Kagoshima-Chuo, stopping in at Kumamoto.The city is known for its reconstructed hilltop castle and makes a cultured jumping-off point for discovering the volcanic hills around Aso-Kuju National Park. ⊲

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AMSTERDAM–ZÜRICH Wake up among the Swiss Alps

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The rise of new sleeper train services – so long an endangered species – has been gathering apace in Europe in recent years, as travellers look for more carbon-friendly ways to explore. Last May, ÖBB launched a Nightjet train from Amsterdam (Netherlands) to Vienna (Austria); in December its latest Amsterdam–Zürich service began, ready for 2022. The newer route follows the countryside curves of the old Rhine Valley line, so as you blearily pull up the blinds in the morning, you should catch a glimpse of the sweeping hills and gorges of the Upper Middle Rhine – still one of Germany’s most wonderful natural sights. Once you’ve arrived in Zürich, the options are many and dramatic; for instance, hop on a train to Lucerne to explore the lake and connect to some of Europe’s most coveted mountain-rail adventures. Make a stop: The Amsterdam connection is a real boon for UK travellers. Easy access via the Eurostar lets you arrive early, store your luggage at Central Station and explore the canals, museums, gabled townhouses and cycleways of the Dutch capital before returning in the evening. It’s the perfect break within a break.

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Make full use Uzbekistan’s high-speed links The extension of the Tashkent–Samarkand highspeed line to Khiva was completed in 2018. The following year, Uzbekistan introduced visa-free travel for UK visitors. But we barely had a chance to take advantage of either before COVID-19 restrictions took hold. Now, a decade after the first daily bullet-train services first began here, and with news of another major high-speed rail connection being mooted (Tashkent–Turkmenistan), 2022 seems like the year to finally see Uzbekistan by rail. In just two hours travellers can flit from the modern capital to the more architecturally toothsome Samarkand, where the elegant Registan Square and the blue tilework of the Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis await. Beyond lie Bukhara, Urgench and, the icing on the cake, the ancient city of Khiva, once a long road trip and now just a few hours away by rail. How times have changed. Make a stop: The Silk Road city of Bukhara might be small but it’s well worth an overnight stop. Explore the old fortress of the emir, admire the exquisitely carved Kalon Minaret, then haggle your heart out in the old trading halls where Bukhara-style silk carpets are hard-won.

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Go offbeat, go quicker (clockwise from top left) Khiva’s Itchan Kala (inner city) is packed with historic monuments, including the turquoise-tiled Kalta Minor Minaret and the extravagantly decorated Tash Khauli Palace; the Galician city of Ourense lies on the Via de la Plata, the camino route to Santiago that starts in Seville; now UNESCO-listed, Sheki was a key trade hub on the Silk Road and its exquisite architecture displays Safavid, Qadjar and Russian influences; arrive by train, explore by boat – Amsterdam has 165 canals, with 100km of waterways within the city limits

Alamy; Shutterstock

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TASHKENT–KHIVA

BAKU-GABALA See Azerbaijan open up to high-speed travel As Azerbaijan wrestles with modernising its ancient railways – first laid by the Russian Empire in 1878 – new routes are opening up some of the country’s hardest-to-reach spots. Last year saw the arrival of a new Laki-Gabala connection, which became the final link in a three-hour route from capital Baku to Gabala, a city nestled snugly at the foot of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. It has become particularly popular with skiers in recent years, but there are plenty of hiking opportunities in summer. Nearby, you’ll discover the ruins of Old Gabala, the former capital of Caucasian Albania, a state that covered most of this region for more than a millennia. Also go there to visit traditional Udi villages, take a dip in thermal springs and go boating on the crystal-clear waters of Nohur Lake, which lies peacefully amid a serene backdrop of crumpled green hills. Make a stop: From Gabala it’s a 90-minute drive to Sheki, one of Azerbaijan’s most far-flung wonders. This UNESCO-listed city was once a vibrant Silk Road hub, and the legacy of those days is writ large in streets filled with the remains ⊲ of exquisite palaces and caravanserai.

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Alamy; Shutterstock

Day-trip to the pilgrim city from the Spanish capital For a region synonymous with slow travel – thanks to 1,000 years of pilgrims following the Way of St James – the arrival of a new high-speed rail link between Galicia and Madrid seems almost wrong. The 500km-odd journey from the capital to Spain’s quiet, lush north-west corner used to take seven hours by train; now it’s less than half that. The route is quite a mood change, as inner-city Madrid gives way to pine-forested mountain valleys scored with rivers before a fine finish in Santiago de Compostela. Here, narrow, atmospheric streets wrap a central cathedral whose Romanesque origins have been supplemented over the years with Gothic and Baroque flourishes. It remains one of the grandest sights in Spain as well as an important pilgrim spot. It might even inspire you to explore some sections of the Way of St James. Make a stop: Get off at Ourense, a pretty town on the banks of the Minho River with a historic centre and thermal springs. It’s also a jumping-off point for the Ribeira Sacra, a Biosphere Reserve dotted with medieval monasteries, vineyards and views over the 500m-deep Sil Canyon.

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Revealing rail rides (clockwise from this) Bordeaux’s UNESCO-listed Mirroir d’Eau (water mirror) reflects the 18thcentury Place de la Bourse; sample superb port in Porto; Copenhagen’s colourful Nyhavn canal

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TAKE YOUR TIME ON THE TRACKS 3 slow and sustainable train journeys through Europe

elax to the rhythm of the rails and take your time to discover some fascinating places on a rail journey linking a variety of European cities. We’ve teamed up with the rail experts at Inntravel to bring you three selfguided train journeys across the continent…

FLAVOURS OF BILBAO, SAN SEBASTIÁN & BORDEAUX

Spend your time browsing Bilbao’s Mercado de la Ribera, the largest indoor food market in Europe, and exploring San Sebastián’s Parte Vieja (Old Town), skipping from one pintxos (Basque-style tapas) bar to another, on a six-night rail trip with Inntravel. At each stop, self-guided city walking tours reveal lesser-known sites, such as the medieval suburb of Portugalete, near Bilbao, where you can cross the world’s oldest transporter bridge before walking the winding alleys of Getxo fishing village. In San Sebastián, ride the century-old funicular to the top of Monte Igueldo for views of the Belle Époque architecture, then head back to the train to finish in Bordeaux, France, home to some of

the world’s finest wines and the chance to learn more about them at the Cité du Vin museum.

NORDIC CITIES EXPLORER

Visit three of northern Europe’s most colourful capitals by train and boat over seven nights. In Copenhagen, swap rails for pedals to cycle the Nyhavn canal and visit the city’s galleries. Next, ride the train across the Øresund Bridge and on to Stockholm where the medieval lanes of Gamla Stan and the world’s original open-air museum, the Skansen, await. Finish your week in style by cruising to Helsinki to browse the boutiques of the

CITIES, PALACES & WINE

Inntravel’s ten-night Cities, Palaces & Wine tour unpicks historic Portugal. In Porto, make your way through a maze of museums and churches before crossing the river to the port wine lodges of Vila Nova de Gaia. Then bag a window seat on the train from Porto to Pinhão – one of Europe’s most scenic rail trips – to tour the old wineries of the Douro valley. Next is the historic university city of Coimbra where pastel-hued houses jostle shoulders with Baroque palaces and churches. Afterwards, head to the hills of Sintra to see its magnificent Moorish castelo and the colourful Pena Palace. Finish on the steep streets of Lisbon, riding its yellow trams, marvelling at the ornate Jerónimos Monastery and gazing out from atop the 11thcentury Castelo de São Jorge – the perfect finale.

THE RAIL EXPERTS

Inntravel was named the only Which? Recommended Provider for self-guided tours in 2021, and you can trust its expert team to sort everything from the rail timetables to well-located stays. Its holidays feature family-run hotels, offering an authentic experience that benefits the local economy. Using Inntravel’s detailed notes for selfguided city walking tours, you’ll see iconic sites as well as many lesserknown treasures, all at your own pace.

To find out more about Inntravel’s selfguided journeys by train, visit inntravel. co.uk/wanderlust or call 01653 617092 to speak to their expert team.

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Design District, sample local food in a bustling kauppahalli (market hall) and to admire the elegant Uspenski Cathedral, said to be the largest Orthodox church in Western Europe.

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Why not let someone else take care of the bookings, transfers and logistics of your next great rail escape?

LONDON TO ISTANBUL

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If you had to point to one rail route that revolutionised UK travel in the late 20th century, it would be Eurostar. The freedom to zip across a continent from London is almost taken for granted these days. But not so with Explore’s new London2 Rail Adventures, four trips that set off from the British capital for Athens, Marrakech, the Basque Country and Istanbul. The latter takes full advantage of Europe’s fluid rail links, dipping into the lagoons of Venice and the wetlands and wineries of the Balkans before piling into the Turkish city for visits to the bustling Grand Bazaar and the sixth-century Hagia Sophia. London–Istanbul from £2,375pp for 15 days; explore.co.uk

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COPENHAGEN, STOCKHOLM & HELSINKI

Taking it slow is the joy of Inntravel’s Nordic Cities Explorer, which combines train rides and an overnight boat trip to navigate between the capitals of Denmark, Sweden and Finland. Enjoy the views along the way and, once in each city, immerse yourself in the laid-back Nordic lifestyle. Wander Copenhagen’s colourful Nyhavn waterfront, browse the boutiques of Helsinki’s Design District and cruise around Stockholm’s many islands or stroll the medieval lanes of Gamla Stan, taking your time to explore. One of the highlights is riding the train across the Øresund Strait between Copenhagen and Malmo, first along an 8km-long bridge that spans part of the waterway before reaching a manmade island and plunging into a tunnel beneath the waves. From £1,230pp for seven nights; inntravel.co.uk

HIJAZ RAILWAY

The Hijaz Railway was one of the last great engineering feats of the Ottomans, who wanted to establish a direct line between Istanbul and Mecca. However, during the Arab Revolt (1916-1918) it became a target for raids by TE Lawrence and the Bedouins; it closed a few years later, as the Ottoman Empire fell into decline. Corinthian Travel’s Saudi Arabia & the Hijaz Railway trip delves into this history, visiting the abandoned stations and derailed locomotives that lie along the route as well as the railway museum in Medina. You’ll also make use of Saudi Arabia’s new high-speed railways, taking in sites such as the Nabataean tombs of Hegra and the Tuwaiq escarpment where you can watch the sun set over the “Edge of the World”. ⊲ From £4,980pp for ten days; corinthiantravel.co.uk

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CALGARY TO VANCOUVER

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The near-endless wildernesses of Canada were almost made to be seen from a railway carriage or boat deck – somehow these vantages make the vastness easier to comprehend. Canada As You Like It’s Western Canada Train & Ferry tour takes on this grand scenery in both ways. After hitting the road in the Rockies, exploring the ice fields and hot springs of Banff National Park, you’ll head west from Jasper by train, travelling over the mountains and through frontier territory dotted with old sawmills, forests and lakes. At Prince Rupert, a port rich in First Nations history, swap the train for the ferry, to sail slowly down the majestic Inside Passage, looking for whales and seabirds. Disembark at outdoorsy Port Hardy, where a flight to Vancouver awaits. From £2,525pp for 16 nights; canadaasyoulikeit.com

LONDON TO SPAIN & MOROCCO

On Great Rail Journeys’ Magnificent Morocco & Moorish Spain tour you’ll step onto a train in London and step off in some of Iberia and North Africa’s greatest cities. First stop is Barcelona, where relics of the Moors are few and far between but Gaudí’s Sagrada Familia and the old Gothic Quarter are ample compensation. In Seville, Mudéjar styles are far more evident in the exquisite arches and mosaics of the Alcázar, built atop a Moorish castle. Then, after a ferry ride across the Strait of Gibraltar, it’s onward by rail to the coastal cities of Casablanca and Rabat, inland to labyrinthine Fez, Imperial Meknes, the Roman ruins of Volubilis and bustling Marrakech, exploring medieval medinas en route, and finishing with the Berber in the High Atlas range. From £3,495pp for 13 days; greatrail.com

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Europe’s smaller nations are so easily overlooked, yet most of them pack in as much history and appeal as countries many times their size. Europe’s Tiny Countries by Rail trip with Discover the World puts this theory to the test as it departs London for the rock-top castle of Lichtenstein’s capital Vaduz, then meanders its way by rail to the world’s oldest surviving sovereign state, San Marino. From there it heads for the Renaissance wonders and frescoes of the Vatican City (Rome’s world within a world) before hitting the tracks one last time for glamorous Monaco and the flâneurs of the French Riviera – an extremely stylish finish. From £2,198pp for 14 days; discover-the-world.com

LONDON TO LAKE GARDA

Citalia’s eight-day London to Garda by Rail trip browses some of Europe’s most cultured streets without an airport in sight, recreating an enlightening Grand Tour for the modern day. From London you’ll take the train to Paris, to overnight amid its boulevards, bistros and art galleries. Continue on, via Milan, to Venice, to amble alongside the canals, cross the Bridge of Sighs, visit the ornate Doge’s Palace and pause for aperitifs and people-watching in the piazzas. Then take the fast train to Desenzano del Garda for a few days by the lake: lap up views of the pastel-hued mansions, gorge on gelato and take a boat across to the rugged north shore. To get home, take a quick train to Verona – or, better, add on a few days in this romantic city. From 1,679pp for eight days; citalia.com

Citalia; Michele Bitetto/Unsplash; Shutterstock; Via Rail

LONDON TO LICHTENSTEIN, SAN MARINO, VATICAN & MONACO

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Rails in the wild (clockwise from this) The Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad offers an authentic ride through history; the Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway reaches 4,302m; go back to the 1880s aboard the Georgetown Loop Railroad; it’s not unusual to find snow on the tracks on the Leadville Colorado & Southern Railroad in late summer; an abandoned mine near Cripple Creek; the Rocky Mountaineer passing through Eagle County

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6 HISTORIC AND SCENIC RAIL ROUTES IN COLORADO

ince they were first built in the 19th century to connect gold and silver mining camps, Colorado’s railroads are the best – and sometimes only – way to get an intimate brush with the state’s cloud-baiting mountains, sweeping river valleys and forest wildernesses. Here are six grand train journeys to hop aboard in Colorado…

& Silverton 1 Durango Narrow Gauge Railroad

You probably thought the golden age of US rail travel was consigned to the history books, or sepia-toned photographs, but the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad proves it’s still very much alive. This is a true time-frozen train journey, where you’ll not only follow the

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same 72.5km route that the miners, settlers and cowboys rode in the 1880s, but also travel on the same train they did: a vintage steam locomotive. As much as the route was chosen for its practicality, the scenery outside must have had miners glued to the windows, as the track hugs craggy peaks and chugs through pine-carpeted valleys and the raw backcountry of San Juan National Forest. Even back then, its passengers must have thought they’d struck gold long before they had reached the mines.

the Southern Front Range once inspired poet Katharine Lee Bates to pen the patriotic anthem America the Beautiful. But for years it was only accessible on muleback. A more civilised ascent was needed, and in 1891 the Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway was born. Today, it remains the highest cog railway in the world, taking an hour to make the 14.5km journey from Manitou Springs, and the train’s route through canyons and wild forests to the summit of Pikes Peak is as captivating as ever.

Broadmoor Manitou Georgetown Loop Railroad 2 The and Pikes Peak Cog Railway 3 Reopening in 2021 after a huge renovation, the Cog Railway is a must-ride, and is now faster, safer and more comfortable than ever before. The views from atop Pikes Peak (4,302m) of

They broke the mould when they built the Georgetown Loop Railroad. Several remarkable feats of engineering were required during its construction, with its hairpin turns, a 30-degree horseshoe curve and four bridges – including

Alamy; The Broadmoor Manitou and Pikes Peak Cog Railway; Dan and Zora Avila; Georgetown Loop Railroad; @j9inthewildwildwest; Rocky Mountaineer; Salvador Lopez

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the cloud-grazing Devil’s Gate High Bridge – all testing the technology of its era. This narrowgauge railway, measuring less than a metre, promptly became one of Colorado’s earliest tourist attractions when it opened in 1884. It still serves up widescreen views of Clear Creek Canyon’s pine-wrapped peaks as it chugs between the mining towns of Georgetown and Silver Plume. It also proves that not all scenic train rides have to be epic journeys. At just 10km long, taking 75 minutes to complete, this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it trip is a quick but satisfying dip into Colorado’s wilderness, with the chance to explore an historic silver mine before the return ride.

you’ll spy as you pick your way through Colorado’s backcountry on the Cripple Creek & Victor Narrow Gauge Railroad. This steam train transports you back to the State’s goldrush pomp, taking you on a coal-fired chug through steep forested hills and passing several long-abandoned mines, including the camp complex of Anaconda. The open-sided carriages mean the 45-minute journey along the historic railroad is as much a multi-sensory experience as it is a trip through time, so be prepared to feel the pine-scented breeze on your face, smell the steam plumes and maybe even hear the growl of a black bear. It’s a wild journey into the untamed heart of Colorado.

Colorado 4 Leadville & Southern Railroad

Mountaineer 6 Rocky Rockies to the Red Rocks

Ever since gold was discovered here in 1860, Leadville has had a rich prospecting history, and during the 19th century it became a happy hunting ground for miners of gold, silver and lead. It was during this boom that a railroad was built to shuttle the precious metals across Colorado. The Leadville, Colorado & Southern Railroad now traces that line – and it’s an eye-popping journey at that. Trains climb the jade-hued wilds of San Isabel National Forest, where vistas unfold to reveal the Rocky Mountains, including Colorado’s two highest peaks, Elbert and Massive. Along the way, hear tales of Leadville’s eclectic former residents, including gambler Doc Holliday and rags-toriches-to-rags-again couple Horace and Baby Doe Tabor. Ride the railroad in summer when the wildflowers are in bloom, or autumn when the trees turn fiery shades of orange and gold.

Creek & Victor 5 Cripple Narrow Gauge Railroad

This locomotive’s sky-blue paintwork only serves to tantalise the wide-open horizons

For more information, go to: colorado.com

The Rocky Mountaineer is more readily known for exploring the snow-dusted ruggedness of British Columbia, but since 2021, it has also rolled through the rust-red mountainscapes between Denver and Moab (and vice versa) on a two-day route. Wind through canyons carved by the Colorado River, keeping your eyes peeled for mountain lions, deer and eagles among other wildlife, before pit-stopping in Glenwood Springs for the night. Pick up where you left off the next day, tucking into a hearty breakfast as you soak up a patchwork of ochrehued cliffs, the crimson-coloured Ruby Canyon and the vertiginous peaks of mounts Garfield (2,062m) and Peale (the highest point of the La Sal Mountains at 3,879m), all brought to life with legendary tales of the Wild West. As you creep towards Moab, the startling sandstone formations of Arches National Park awaits, peering above the burnt-orange landscape – a definitive vista of the American South-West served up in the perfect package. Whichever railroad you decide to ride, you’re in for a scenic and slow journey like no other.

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THE FLORIDA KEYS OF MY IMAGINATION

The Florida Keys might be the road well taken, but its wild coral waters, mangrove-covered islands and fiery sunsets reveal a more natural side Words Lyn Hughes

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here’s a magical moment on every sporting exploits of the likes of Hemingway and others, but trip when I think: “This is it! This is the these days it is about celebrating what is here more than what place I crossed the Earth for and it’s you can take from it. I’d come in search of the islands’ natural everything I imagined it to be.” side; one that can often be lost on first-timers. My first few days in the Florida Keys had been very enjoyable but I’d yet to IN BOATS WE TRUST have that moment. In Key Largo, I spent “You know the Overseas Highway? Well, think of this as the a couple of nights on a houseboat, getting fish highway,” said Captain Brady as he pointed to the Northup before sunrise to sup coffee on the west Channel on a map, explaining the route we were going upper deck while to take. “We have dolphins year-round pelicans passed overhead. My first here because there is plenty of shallow warm water around the Keys, plus lots night had involved a meal of excep“I turned and saw tional seafood while I marvelled at just of food via the channel, too.” a grey shape crest how many of the silver-bearded diners It was a sunny but breezy morning, around me resembled the writer Ernest and I was on-board SQUID, Key West’s the ocean just metres Hemingway. And on an eco-boat trip, first electric-powered charter boat, for from the boat. I had seen manatees and birdlife galore. a dolphin-watching trip. There were But that moment – the one when “Dolphin!” I squealed” seven of us on the tour, plus the captain I had to pinch myself and think, “Hey, and Jaclyn, both marine biologists. I’m here, really here in the Florida The wind had curtailed plans to go Keys” – didn’t arrive until I was driving the Overseas Highway out too far; instead we headed to the Key West National Wildacross Seven Mile Bridge.This is one of the longest causeways life Refuge.This was established by former US president Theoin the world, yet just one of 42 bridges that link the 182km dore “Teddy” Roosevelt in 1908, to protect a crucial habitat island chain. With aquamarine water shimmering on both and breeding ground for birds, turtles and other wildlife. sides, I found myself in wonder at the geography of the Keys We motored along for an hour or so, rarely seeing another and how being surrounded by so much ocean had defined life boat. Entering an area called the Pearl Basin, Captain Brady here and given it the unique flavour that is now its draw. dropped our speed and shouted to keep an eye out for dolphins. The Florida Keys has these moments that creep up on you. I turned and almost immediately saw a grey shape crest the Its bountiful waters once stocked the fisheries and fuelled the ocean just metres from the boat. “Dolphin!” I squealed. ⊲

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Clear waters (left–right) Snorkelling around Key Largo, which is home to the first undersea park in the US, John Pennenkamp Coral Reef State Park, established in 1963; Captain Sam of KeyZ Charters is one of the Stewards of the Keys; an osprey makes its nest on a channel marker in Blackwater Sound, in sight of the Overseas Highway; (previous spread) the road connecting the islands was forever changed by the 1935 hurricane, which destroyed the old railroad and allowed the state to buy the land and build over the rail bed – it now extends for 182km

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I expressed surprise that a dolphin could recognise boats. It was a mother and baby, and they were almost close enough to reach out and touch. “They are coastal Atlantic “Definitely,” he smiled. “In two ways: visually, when we’re close enough, and by our sound.This boat makes a unique noise, so bottlenose dolphins, just like Flipper,” said Brady. Jaclyn was busy taking photos, ready to upload to a database. they will have known it’s us. They’re very relaxed and haven’t She had been collecting data and studying these creatures for changed their natural behaviour. That’s our goal. It’s a good two years. “We’ve been able to identify 125 individuals just here sign that they feel so comfortable with us, especially moms and in Key West,” she told me. “We note their dorsal fins and add babies. That shows trust… It’s really special to see.” the data to the Whale & Dolphin Tracker – an app that anyone can download.We use it to piece together the life stories of the REEF ENCOUNTERS dolphins we are watching every day. It’s kinda cool to get to We eventually left the dolphins and carried on to a quiet spot. know them on a personal level and tell people their stories.” Those who wanted to snorkel donned wetsuits and slipped into It turns out the Keys is a safe place the relatively shallow water. Below us, for dolphins. “The population is not just the sandy ocean floor was scattered “Several schools of stable but growing,” said Jaclyn. “There’s with large sponges almost a metre a lack of predators, such as sharks, and in breadth. Sheltering beneath them grey snapper swam plenty of fish to eat, so it’s a paradise for was an array of fish of different shapes by, whereas the redand sizes. The most dazzling were them. They can stay their whole lives.” the porkfish, coloured bright yellow A couple more appeared and seemed and-black groupers in a playful mood as they circled the with black stripes. Several schools of hung out on their boat. Brady explained: “We’re in a little grey snapper swam by, whereas the own, ignoring us.” bowl area, about ten football fields in red-and-black groupers hung out on their own, ignoring us. size, and we’re over a kind of underThe weather conditions that day were not suitable for water hill. The dolphins are just checking out that slope. I thought we would see them fishing – they drive the fish to going to the Florida Reef, the world’s third-largest barrier reef the shallow water, as they’re easy to catch there – but we have system. It is 579km long and, along with the mangroves and a mom and a baby here and they just seem to be curious about remaining native forest, provides important protection to the us. They know the boat.” ⊲ Keys from storms, flooding and erosion.

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Alamy; Beth Higham; Tim Grollimund, Florida Keys News Bureau; Simon Chubb

Guarding the ocean (clockwise from top left) If you spot one Atlantic bottlenose dolphin, chances are that there are others around, as they tend to travel in pods; a diver for the Coral Restoration Foundation tends to one of the “trees” they use for growing corals; the Keys’ mangrove-covered islands are an important nesting and feeding site for brown pelicans and roseate spoonbills; a resident at the Marathon Turtle Hospital, which began life as a motel before its owner converted it into a turtle rehab centre, with the adjoining strip club becoming a treatment area; greedy pelicans gather at the marina at Robbie’s of Islamorada hoping for scraps from the fishing boats

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The old man and the house It was on the advice of John Dos Passos, one of Ernest Hemingway’s contemporaries and also part of the “Lost Generation”, a group of writers who came of age during the First World War and found themselves wandering Europe in the 1920s, that Hemingway first came to Florida Keys, and it was here that he settled, taking over and restoring a Spanish-Colonial-style house originally built in 1851; (right page) slow-moving West Indian manatees are drawn to Florida’s warm, shallow coastal waters where they can graze peacefully on marine plantlife and are often spotted close to shore, even around the marinas of Key West

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Writers’ retreat (clockwise from top left) Hairy Truman the cat is descended from the many polydactl (six-toed) felines Ernest Hemingway used to own, after being gifted one by a local sailor – as the author once wrote, “one cat just leads to another”, and today nearly 60 live in his old house; the wooden homes of Key West’s old town have charming verandahs and picket fences; the winter base of former president Harry S Truman; his 1950s Lincoln Cosmopolitan car; Capt Tony’s Saloon is a dive bar with a past, and back when it was known as Sloppy Joe’s, the cream of US literati drank here, from Truman Capote to Tennessee Williams, and of course, Hemingway

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However, like other coral reefs around the world, it faces a resurgence over the last five decades. From the late 18th threats ranging from climate change to pollution, to agricul- century onwards, the meat of green turtles was much in tural runoff, overfishing and damage from anchors and irre- demand in Europe, as the prime ingredient of turtle soup. sponsible snorkellers and divers. Chemicals in sunscreen can A lucrative industry grew in Key West, processing turtles kept in even harm corals. In Key Largo, I visited the Coral Restoration water-filled pens, called “kraals”, for export. Even when trade Foundation (CRF) to meet Roxane Boonstra, who filled me in was past its peak, it continued into the 1970s until protection on the scary statistics of just what had been lost. was afforded to local turtles under the Endangered Species Act. The good news was that the CRF has a successful At the Turtle Hospital in Marathon, I met with manager programme raising corals in nurseries.They grow 20 different Bette Zirkelbach, another Steward, who explained that I was species on “trees”, with each of them standing in the only dedicated turtle home to up to 60 corals. The foundahospital in the world. Upon my arrival, tion currently has eight nurseries but the reception area had thronged with “The Florida Keys is has plans for 45 in total.The corals are families checking in for its 90-minute then planted on the reef by volunteers, tour, of which it does several a day. home to five of the with Roxane working with local dive Such is the interest now in turtles that world’s seven operators on a programme that allows it gets over 100,000 visitors a year. species of sea turtle, The site was a motel and nightthe public to get involved for a day. Roxane was one of few local resiclub before being bought by founder but they face dents to have been designated a “StewRichie Moretti in the 1980s. He hadn’t many dangers” ard of the Keys”; she wouldn’t be the intended to open a turtle hospital but last I’d meet. In Islamorada, I joined fate led him down a different path. another Steward, Captain Sam Zeher, The Florida Keys is home to five of the one of the few female business owners here, on an eco-tour world’s seven species of sea turtle, and they face many dangers through the mangroves.We searched in vain for a crocodile that here; they often end up getting hit by boats or entangled in had been recently spotted; they are rare in North America but a nets, or swallow something indigestible, such as plastic bags. small population does live here.We had more success with peliBette also explained that green turtles can suffer from cans, boobies, egrets and an osprey, as well as several manatees. a condition called fibropapillomatosis, an aggressive herpeslike virus that causes tumours to grow. These can be treated THE SHELL GAME with chemotherapy and surgically removed. Research is still While the future of the region’s coral remains in the balance, being conducted but she pointed out that the condition is only things are brighter for its turtle population, which has had found around developed coastlines. ⊲

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The hospital had taken in 20 juvenile turtles from New England that were suffering from hypothermia and pneumonia. Bette took me to see some cuties hooked up to makeshift nebulisers; it was almost too adorable to describe. At the other end of the scale, size-wise, was the hospital’s latest arrival, Sheldon, a mature loggerhead turtle “Look at the size of his head,” Bette pointed, “he’s in his prime.We think he could be 50 years old.” Sheldon had come in a few days earlier having had his leg caught in a crab-trap line, but it was not badly damaged, so he would soon be returned to the sea. Bette’s passion for turtles shone through, and I asked her why she was so drawn to them: “They are one of the oldest species known to man; they’ve been around since dinosaurs walked the Earth – and they’re just really cool animals!”

held my room, it struck me that the only soundtrack here was one of cicadas, calling into the night like a million clicking typewriters hammering out page after page.

THE SUN ALSO SETS

Simon Chubb

The next morning, the soundtrack had changed to crowing roosters. Descended from jungle fowl from Cuba and the Caribbean, the local chooks were originally brought here as food and for cock fighting. They now freely roam the town, weaving in and out of the traffic. Locals call them “gypsy chickens”. “This is the only rooster-free zone in town,” said a guide at Hemingway House, pointing to some of the 58 cats that lived there. They are supposedly all descended from a feline called Snow White that Ernest Hemingway was given when he lived here in the 1930s. She had six toes on each foot (known as a polydactyl), a genetic mutation that many ships’ cats once LITERARY PURSUITS possessed and was considered good luck. Hemingway named Turtles were only one of several lucrative industries that Snow White’s progeny after famous people, and that tradition 19th-century Key West was known for. In the early 1800s, it’s carries on. A purring ginger tom called Buster Keaton curled said that the city was the wealthiest per capita in the United up on my lap as I took a quick break on a garden bench. States. However, its fortunes have waxed and waned since; now Hemingway spent nine years here in what is often considered tourism is by far the most important industry today. his most productive period, writing To Have and Have Not, Indeed, arriving in Key West, it all seemed a bit too touristy at Islands in the Stream and a couple of well-known short stories. first, as I walked to Mallory Square for the daily celebration of He had lived here with his second wife, Pauline Pfeiffer, having sunset. Stalls were selling souvenirs and been drawn to Key West by the laidstreet performers were doing their thing back lifestyle and deep-sea fishing. All – it was like a cross between Covent went well until he met the journalist “As the schooner Garden and Marrakech’s Djemaa El who was to become his third wife, Fna. Then the evening turned cold turned and crossed the Martha Gellhorn, in Sloppy Joe’s. Hemingway House is arguably the and windy, as a leaden grey cloud horizon, the clouds completely obscured the sun. I would best known of Key West’s sights, but cleared and the sky have to wait for my perfect sunset. the island is still crammed with things The disappointed crowd dispersed, to see and do, from the “Little White changed colour to many heading for the lively bars and House”, in which former president a flame orange” Harry S Truman used to take “workarestaurants of Greene and Duval Streets, the tourist hub. I stopped for tions”, to the fascinating Museum of a beer at Captain Tony’s Saloon, a Art & History. But there was one legendary spot that was the site of the original Sloppy Joe’s bar, quintessential Florida Keys experience that I was yet to have synonymous with Ernest Hemingway. A tree grows through its – seeing one of its legendary sunsets. interior, though only its trunk is visible. Stories abound that it The evening weather had been against me all week. My last was once used for hangings, and the bar is said to be haunted by chance was a private sunset sail, but the omens did not look a woman hanged for killing her husband and sons.Today, most good upon my arrival at the marina where a catamaran called drinkers are too busy perusing the ceiling, with its thousands Rogue Angel awaited me under a thick grey wall of cloud. “You wait! Captain Tyler’s smile will bring the sun out,” was of hanging bras, to notice if a Lady in Blue wafted by them. This wasn’t the Key West of my imagination just yet. But, the bold claim of one of the directors of Blue Sail Charters. after strolling a few of blocks, I entered a more timeless world. Once into open water, Captain Tyler pulled up the sail and The streets of the old town were lined with picket fences, behind it felt exhilarating to follow the coast of Key West while sipping which stood pastel-coloured wooden houses with “gingerbread” on prosecco and nibbling on a variety of cheeses. We passed trims and louvre shutters. I wondered at their inhabitants over Mallory Square, where the crowds were gathered in hope of seeing a sunset, and then turned away, rounding Sunset Key the years and the sights they had seen from their verandahs. I could see the appeal to writers and artists. Key West has and heading back to Stock Island.The only other vessel in sight been graced by literary titans such as Tennessee Williams, was a solitary schooner, the America 2, modelled on the winner Ernest Hemingway and the poet Robert Frost. Even today, it is of the first ever America’s Cup. As she turned and crossed the said that a disproportionate number of writers are based here. horizon, silhouetted against the skyline, the clouds miracuThe streets were hushed as I reached my hotel, Winslow’s lously cleared, the sky changed colour to a flame orange ... and Bungalows, which consisted of a collection of historic houses it was one of the best sunsets I had ever seen. converted into guestrooms. When I located the building that Yes, the Florida Keys of my imagination really does exist. ⊲ At the end of the day… (left) Florida Keys sunsets are coveted – even 19th-century writer Mark Twain was said to have made the trip to see the sun sink over Mallory Square, which now fills with a nightly carnival. Some choose to watch from a bar, others head to the southernmost point of continental USA (its marker lists the distance to Cuba – just 90 miles!), but by boat is the only way to bag lonely waters and unobstructed views

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A similar itinerary from America As You Like It (020 8742 8299; americaasyoulikeit.com) costs from £2,579 per person, including return flights with Virgin Atlantic from London Heathrow to Miami, seven days fully inclusive car hire, two nights at the Mangrove Marina & Resort, Key Largo, three nights at Winslow’s Bungalows by Kimpton, Key West, and two nights at Tranquillity Bay Beach House Resort, Marathon. Based on travel in November 2022.

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Vital statistics

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County Seat: Key West Population: 82,874 (Monroe County) Time: GMT-5 (GMT-4 Mar–Nov) International Dialling Code: +1 Visas: A visa or ESTA visa waiver (£10.60; valid for two years) is required by British nationals for stays of up to 90 days. Money: US Dollars (US$), currently around $1.33 to the UK £.

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When to go

November–March: Sunny and dry although you may still want to

wear a wetsuit when snorkelling due to the temperature of the water. High season is from December onwards. April–June: Shoulder season; fewer visitors. July–October: Hot and humid although tempered by sea breezes. There is a chance of rain showers and occasional hurricanes. It’s low season, so there’s lower prices and more availability.

Health & safety

Check the UK FCDO guidelines for the most up to date information on travel and entry requirements. At the time of writing, only travellers with proof of full vaccination may enter the US; they do not need to quarantine on arrival. The Florida Keys has a relatively low crime rate, but take the usual common-sense precautions.

Getting there

Miami is the main entry point. Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com) flies direct between London Heathrow and Miami, with return economy fares starting from around £401, including complimentary food, drink and in-flight entertainment. This fare is available for selected departures from May 2022 through to March 2023.

Getting around

Given the USA’s car culture, a rental car is the most flexible option, with all the usual brands found at the airport. Once out of Greater Miami and onto the Overseas Highway, driving is a breeze. Alternatively, Flixbus (flixbus.com) is a new coach service that runs six days a week, with stops in Islamorada, Marathon and Key West, with additional stops in Key Largo and Big Pine Key planned for the future. The Keys Shuttle (keysshuttle.com) runs from Miami Airport and makes several stops on the way down. It can also be booked as a taxi service within the Keys. Once in Key West, it’s easy to explore on foot or two wheels. Cycling is only allowed on the Overseas Highway if you make use of the paved 170km Overseas Heritage Trail, which runs parallel to the road (Route 1) in many places.

Accommodation

Mangrove Marina & Resort (mangrovemarina.com), Tavernier, offers “AquaVillas” (houseboats) equipped with a kitchenette, bathroom and complimentary high-speed wi-fi. Protected by the mangrove trees surrounding the marina, this basin is a natural “hurricane hole

Map illustration: Scott Jessop

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FLORIDA KEYS HIGHLIGHTS Dolphin Watch & Snorkel Tour with 5 Honest Eco, Key West

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Small group tours with marine biologists. Enjoy dolphin watching and snorkelling on an electricpowered boat. honesteco.org

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Sail with Blue Sail Charters 6 Sunset Excellent charter company offering sunset cruises, eco trips and multi-day charters to the Marquesas Keys and Dry Tortugas National Park. bluesailcharter.com

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Harry S. Truman Little White House, 7 Key West

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Thanks to the Keys’ bountiful ocean, seafood lovers are in for a treat. Grouper is the most popular fish, while snapper and mahi mahi are ubiquitous. From October to May look out for stone crab and spiny lobster. But the most famous dish of all is key lime pie, available everywhere. The Fish House (fishhouse.com), Key Largo, has plenty of fresh seafood, including lobster and stone crab, served in a friendly, casual (no wine list!) “Keys style” atmosphere. Chef Michael’s (foodtotalkabout.com) in Islamorada serves a choice of less common “fish of the day” options, such as tilefish or hogfish, in a host of different preparations. Hungry Tarpon at Robbie’s of Islamorada (robbies.com) overlooks a marina where you can spot opportunistic pelicans, tarpon fish and possibly manatees. It’s a busy spot. Café Marquesa (marquesa.com), Key West, is a top-end restaurant offering contemporary American fine dining; it’s popular with discerning locals and visitors. Matt’s Stock Island (perrykeywest.com) dishes up “American coastal comfort food” by the marina at Key West’s The Perry Hotel. Blue Heaven (blueheavenkw.com), Key West, does decadent breakfasts. Lobster eggs benedict and key lime pie are served in the garden while roosters peck around your feet. It used to host Friday-night boxing matches refereed by Ernest Hemingway.

Further reading & information

www.fla-keys.co.uk – the official Florida Keys website is packed with useful info Miami & the Keys (Lonely Planet, 2021) – reliable travel guide to the area

There be treasures The archipelago of Dry Tortugas National Park has a rugged history filled with pirates and wreckage hunters preying on 17th-century Spanish galleons. When the US finally got their hands on it, after buying Florida from the Spanish in 1819, Fort Jefferson (pictured) was built and used to house Civil War deserters and prisoners. Today, visitors to one of the USA’s most remote national parks, 113km off Key West, arrive to hear tales of its colourful past, spot birds and turtles, and explore wild, coral-filled waters

Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park, 1KeyJohn Largo The first underwater park in the USA. Take a glass-bottomed boat tour or go snorkelling, diving or kayaking. On the shore you can walk the designated nature trails. pennekamppark.com

In 1946, this historic building first served as the winter White House for President Harry S Truman, and was later used by other presidents. trumanlittlewhitehouse.org

The Key West Butterfly & Nature 8 Conservatory

Stroll an exotic land of flowering plants, waterfalls, flamingos and thousands of fluttering butterflies. keywestbutterfly.com

Turtle Hospital, Marathon 2 The The Hemingway Home & Museum, 9 Key West Ninety-minute educational experiences provide a behindthe-scenes look at the hospital facilities and rehabilitation area, plus there’s an opportunity to feed the permanent residents. turtlehospital.org

Coral Restoration Foundation, 3 Key Largo

The CRFs one-day dive programs, run in conjunction with local operators, let you help plant sea coral. coralrestoration.org

tour with KeyZ Charters, Islamorada 4 Eco Founded by Captain Samantha Zeher, a typical one-hour eco tour with KeyZ Charters guides visitors through narrow mangrove channels to experience the Keys’ natural wildlife. keyzcharters.com

Go early to avoid the queues, and do take one of the free guided tours. hemingwayhome.com

Tortugas National Park 10 Dry

The US’s least accessible national park, 113km off Key West, can be reached by ferry, seaplane or charter. Visit for its 19th century fort, snorkelling and marine and bird life. Day trips and overnight camping generally need booking far in advance. nps.gov/drto

WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Discover the Florida Keys – https://www.wanderlust.co.uk/ discover/florida-keys-travel/ Key Largo – The classic 1948 thriller, starring Humphry Bogart and Lauren Bacall, is known more for its tense plot than its scenery, but it hits the spot

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and very tranquil. Houseboats from around £200pn (minimum two-night stay). Marathon’s Tranquility Bay Beach House Resort (tranquilitybay.com) overlooks the sparkling waters of the Gulf of Mexico, has its own private beach, three pools and is next door to the Turtle Hospital. There is a choice of beautiful beach houses or smaller tropical garden guestrooms. A wide range of activities is offered, and its Butterfly Café serves excellent dinners. Rooms from £151pn. Winslow’s Bungalows by Kimpton (kimptonkeywest.com), Key West, offers rooms in several historic buildings at the quiet end of the Old Town, and is within walking distance of Key West’s main sights. It also has daily complimentary continental breakfast, a bike share program and three pools. Doubles from £250pn.

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

SUMMER IN SWITZERLAND

YOUR FULL GUIDE TO A NATURE-FILLED SUMMER IN BERNESE OBERLAND

Whether you want to paraglide, hike, bike, climb, or simply cruise on a glacier-fed lake, Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland, south of the country’s capital, Bern, is a natural outdoor playground catering to your every whim – and some you didn’t even know you had. Where to start? Try one of these adventurous areas…

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A centre for hiking and biking, as well as home to a famously challenging Ski World Cup giant slalom race in winter, the mountain village of Adelboden thrives on the nature it inhabits. The village comprises a clutch of traditional wooden chalets spreading from the bowl of the valley up the flowerstrewn slopes that surround it. Above are the high peaks of the Wildstrubel massif, still sprinkled with snow even in high summer, whose meltwater runs tumbling down over cliffs to form the mighty Engstligen Falls. Take the bus or drive to the base of the falls to see them up close via an easy woodland hiking path. Or view them from the Engstligenbahn cable car, which rises alongside the falls to the high alpine pasture above, known as the Engstligenalp. More intrepid visitors can don a helmet and harness and ascend using the Chäligang via ferrata, a steep but simple climb along a fixed rope in view of the falls. Or follow in the hoof-steps of local cows on the mountain trail from Unter dem Birg to Engstligenalp, which the cattle tackle every year to spend summer on the Alps. Their descent in the autumn – known as the Alpabzug – is a real spectacle and, pre-COVID-19, was a popular day out. The Engstligenalp is a satisfying place to spend time and the starting point for many hiking trails. Surrounded by a semi-circle of peaks, the Engstligenalp’s flat plateau makes for an easy walk (in winter, it’s ideal for cross-country skiing), while a more undulating hiking loop leads down to the cliff where the water drops sharply over the edge. Those looking for something more demanding can take the high alpine trail from here all the way over the Chindbettipass and eventually to Leukerbad. Or why not take the Gemmipass from Leukerbad to the Gemmi region for views over the Daubensee lake? Whatever exertion you choose, fortify yourself first with a hearty portion of Älplermagronen (Swiss macaroni cheese) in the mountain restaurant.

Keen mountain bikers should head to one of the other peaks surrounding Adelboden. Tschentenalp sits on the opposite side of the valley facing Engstligenalp and is accessed by another cable car or by bike along a trail that winds its way up from the village through the Tschent forest. At the top, channel your inner child on the giant swing, which stands on a ridge looking out over the valley and village below. Taking in the view as you swing, to the right you’ll see the Chuenisbärgli mountain, where the Ski World Cup slalom and giant slalom races have been held every year since 1956. Also visible is the Sillerenbühl, from where you can reach the heart of Trottiland, the name given to the 45km of trails designed for trotti-bikes (stand-up scooters), which can be hired on site. Whizzing down the mountain roads past grazing cattle and alpine flowers is a freeing – not to mention extremely fun – way of experiencing the beautiful landscape. From the top of the Sillerenbühl it’s possible to take another gondola on to Hahnenmoos, a tranquil spot overlooking a mountain lake that is the starting point for further biking and hiking trails, as well as one rather unusual experience: a walk with goats. Sabina Bircher is an Adelboden local who looks after the animals, all belonging to rare Swiss breeds, allowing visitors to walk with them. On a stroll around the Hahnenmoospass or a longer hike of your choosing – at goat pace, naturally – you’ll come to know Matilda, Trax and the other goats as they nibble their choice of alpine flowers and scrap like squabbling siblings. The Hahnenmoospass is also the highest point on the Adelboden-Lenk stage of the extensive Via Alpina, one of Switzerland’s long-distance hiking trails, which crosses 14 alpine passes on its 390km route across Switzerland. The 14km stage starts in Adelboden then heads up to the Hahnenmoospass before descending to Lenk, offering a snapshot of the mountain vistas, verdant pastures, forests and moorlands that make up the region. Do it in reverse and you can end your day in the refreshing water of the Gruebi, Adelboden’s renovated 1930s outdoor swimming pool and spa which is well placed to soothe your aching limbs while you bask in the view of the nature you’ve come to know.

Verdant valleys (clockwise from top right) A traditional wooden chalet in Adelboden; ride a trotti-bike in Trottiland; a cow grazing on the Engstligenalp; hiking near the Engstligen Falls; a mountain hut in Adelboden

Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy; Shutterstock

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Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy; Shutterstock

For more information, go to: jungfrauregion.swiss, interlaken.ch and be-welcome.ch

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

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HAVE AN ADVENTURE IN INTERLAKEN

Andrea Michael Badrutt; Nicole Schafer

You need only witness paragliders landing in Interlaken’s central Höhematte park to understand why this town is regarded as the adventure capital of Europe. Bigger and busier than Adelboden, with a generous portion of luxury hotels, and positioned between two lakes (hence the name), its pretty Old Town retains an alpine feel. It’s likely to be on any visitor’s itinerary for good reason: not only is it just under an hour from the Swiss capital, Bern, but Interlaken’s transport links make it the ideal base for exploring the surrounding area. Get your bearings at the Harder Kulm viewing point, known as the ‘top of Interlaken’. The funicular, not far from the town centre, will take you to the 1,322m platform from where you can see Lake Thun and Lake Brienz puddle below, with Interlaken sandwiched between them. In the distance are the mountains of the Jungfrau region, easily accessible from the town’s two train stations, while the ferry terminals on both lakes offer boat trips. Visit the town of Thun, with its 12th-century castle and flower-strewn bridges, as well as the woodcarving village of Brienz and various other hamlets dotted around each lakeshore. A 15-minute glide from Brienz over the milky-turquoise water of its namesake lake (or an hour by boat from Interlaken) brings you to Giessbach, which has long enticed visitors due to the waterfall that cascades down the rocks in summer. It’s no wonder that it was thought of as such an ideal location for a hotel: the Grandhotel Giessbach was built in 1873, at the start of the Belle Epoque era, and its castle-like turrets, grand stairways and panoramic terrace guarantee it remains hugely popular today. Originally, guests were required to walk up from the lakeshore to the hotel (or be carried in a sedan chair, if wealthy enough), but in 1879 a funicular railway was built to make quick work of the short but steep hill. These days, the hotel has retained its sense of history and occasion while also ensuring it preserves the nature that surrounds

it, a task entrusted to ranger Thomas Herren and his team, who offer tours of the 220,000 square-metre grounds, now a conservation area. The garden includes an unchlorinated swimming pool that draws its water from the Giessbach waterfall. Nearby, several greenhouses nurture tomatoes, herbs and other plants grown for use in the hotel’s kitchens, as well as flowers to supply its florists, who keep the building beautifully decorated. Above the hotel, walking paths wind through an ancient forest to a viewing platform where a lighthouse was originally used as a “rooms vacant” signal to the people of Brienz, the other side of the lake. The village of Brienz is well worth crossing the lake to visit. Renowned in Switzerland as a centre of woodcarving – its woodcarving school, founded in 1884, is the only one in the country – it is home to a number of artisan workshops where local craftspeople carve figurines and household implements using wood from nearby forests. The town’s Swiss Woodcarving Museum delves into the history of the craft in the region, with carvers working onsite. If weather permits, jump on the cogwheel steam train up to the Brienzer Rothorn on a railway line built way back in 1892. Chugging and sighing up to 2,350m, the steampowered locomotive and its little red carriages don’t appear to have changed much since then, and are all the more charming for it. On certain days, the train stops halfway at Planalp for a snack break of sausages cooked in the locomotive’s original steam kettle. Another train taking passengers back in time is the cogwheel railway from Wilderswil – just outside Interlaken – to Schynige Platte. Built just a year after the Brienzer Rothorn train, this remarkable piece of Swiss engineering winds slowly up through woodland for more than an hour until depositing passengers in a peaceful mountain haven at 1,967m, high above the two lakes. Here, linger over lunch in the restaurant, stroll around the alpine garden, where gentians, alpine roses and rare Edelweiss are tended to by gardener Paul Brunner (who offers tours), or head off into a wilderness occupied by ibex and marmots on one of the area’s many hiking trails. Arguably the most gratifying is the six-hour trail to First via the Faulhorn, where one of the country’s oldest alpine hotels rewards your efforts with fine views, a hearty meal and a cosy bed: a combination of adventure and comfort that sums up this area in a nutshell.

Peak panoramas (left-right) The red train rises to 1,967m and crosses the Schynige Platte, offering views over two lakes; the historic Grandhotel Giessbach overlooks Brienz lake and is surrounded by nature

For more information, go to: jungfrauregion.swiss, interlaken.ch and be-welcome.ch

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TEST YOUR HEAD FOR HEIGHTS IN THE JUNGFRAU REGION

Chasing waterfalls (left-right) The Staubbach Falls is one of 72 waterfalls in the Lauterbrunnen Valley; spot ibex in the Jungfrau Region

For more information, go to: jungfrauregion.swiss, interlaken.ch and be-welcome.ch

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The mountainous heart of the Bernese Oberland is the Jungfrau Region, dominated by a mighty trio of peaks: the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau (it’s easy to remember the order – the ‘monk’ keeps apart the ‘ogre’ and the ‘young woman’). The area captured JRR Tolkien’s heart on a trip to Switzerland in 1911, so much so that both The Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings are inspired by the landscape he explored. Visiting Lauterbrunnen, it’s easy to see why: this village sits at the mouth of a lush valley, cliffs rising each side, the wispy Staubbach waterfall tumbling from on high. Don’t be fooled, though; the power of water is nowhere more evident than here. Around a 30-minute walk brings you to the Trümmelbach Falls that are anything but lightweight. A lift takes visitors halfway up the cliff from where you can walk the rest of the way up and back down again, following the hypnotic passage of the water as it pummels a path through the rock like a wild waterpark ride. On the other side of the valley, two cable cars allow access to the car-free mountain village of Mürren. The more direct of the two departs from Stechelberg, near the Mürrenbach Falls. However, if there’s time, take the more leisurely route from Lauterbrunnen village to Grütschalp from where it’s a flat and easy 90-minute hike to Mürren. Along the way, linger on a bench and take in the view of the big three looming large over the other side of the valley. Be sure to stop at a farm to buy Alpkäse, cows milk cheese made right there on the pasture, as the cows graze nearby. Mürren was put on the map by the Inferno ski race (the largest amateur ski race in the world, which began in 1928) and, later, by a certain James Bond, who came to the village in the form of George Lazenby to film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service in the late 1960s. The village has nevertheless retained its authentic alpine charm, and there are no glitzy high-rise hotels here; instead you’ll find smaller, family-run hotels and friendly locals who are proud to show off their beautiful village to visitors.

One must-do is a trip on the Schilthorn cable car, which rises up to 2,970m, high above the village. Alight at Birg, the mid station, to test your head for heights on the Thrill Walk, a series of see-through steel and glass walkways clinging to the cliff, before carrying on up to the summit of the Schilthorn and Schilthorn-Piz Gloria, the revolving restaurant that occupies it. Partly financed by the Bond franchise’s producers, who selected it as Blofeld’s lair before construction was even completed, Schilthorn-Piz Gloria also features an exhibition about Lazenby’s only outing as 007, including anecdotes about locals who were employed as stunt doubles and skiing extras in the film. Step outside onto the viewing platform for a 360-degree view: on a clear day it’s possible to see hundreds of summits and as far away as Mont Blanc in France. The landscape below the Schilthorn-Piz Gloria is rich with hiking opportunities. From Mürren village, the moderate Northface Trail takes a circular route up through pastures and forests to reach Allmendhubel, Mürren’s local mountain. Here, kick back with a drink at the restaurant or admire the alpine blooms along the Flower Trail before hitching a ride on the small funicular back down to the village. More energetic hikers might prefer the Grauseeli Loop, a full-day hike up to the Schilthornhütte mountain cabin. The descent passes the mirror-like Grauseeli, a small lake in a bowl below the Schilthorn-Piz Gloria. Cool off in the water before continuing on through flower-strewn grass. Look out for eagles, buzzards and paragliders in the skies overhead as marmots bound through the grass below, calling to each other in their bird-like chirp. From here, either take the steep downhill path that joins the Northface trail back towards Mürren, or traverse the Wasenegg ridge to Bryndli, a lone peak whose peaceful summit, facing the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, is a glorious place to take a break before tackling the descent to come. Down is certainly as impressive as up in these mountains, as demonstrated by Mürren’s via ferrata, a fixed climbing route that, unlike most of its kind, descends rather than ascends, taking those who dare on a downwards traverse of the sheer cliffs below the village towards the hamlet of Gimmelwald. Here, in a place that’s home to more cows than people, you can relax and recuperate with a local Schwarz Mönch beer, a perfect place to reflect on your adventurous time in Bernese Oberland.

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Dizzying heights (clockwise from top left) The Thrill Walk at Birg; hiking past the Grauseeli lake in Mürren; the revolving restaurant Piz Gloria at the top of the Schilthorn pays homage to the mountain’s Bond movie history

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION How to get there and around:

SWISS offers more than 160 weekly flights from London City, Heathrow, Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh and London Gatwick (seasonal) to Zurich or Geneva. From Zurich airport it’s around 1.5 hours by train to Bern, and from Geneva it’s around 2 hours. From Bern, you’ll ride along the shore of Lake Thun to Interlaken. Change at Spiez for Adelboden, or at Interlaken for connections to the Jungfrau Region. The Swiss Travel Center offers various railcards, and The Swiss Travel Pass is available from £186 for 3 days in second class.

Where to stay: • The Cambrian Adelboden: This contemporary alpine

hotel has 71 spacious rooms, an outdoor infinity pool and spa, a breakfast terrace with mountain views, and menus designed by Welsh chef Bryn Williams. thecambrianadelboden.com • Hotel Carlton-Europe Vintage: Near Interlaken Ost train station, this upmarket place combines contemporary comforts with vintage style, and features a restaurant, a burger joint and a wine cellar. carltoneurope.ch • Hotel Eiger: This hotel in Mürren offers homely, elegant rooms, some with views of the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau, directly across the valley. hoteleiger.com

Where to eat: • Alte Taverne, Adelboden, offers grilled meats to

Marco Zurschmiede; Shutterstock

share, carved at the table, as well as fondue and salads, in a typically Swiss wooden chalet-like building. alte-taverne.ch • Restaurant Taverne in the Hotel Interlaken serves a menu of imaginative modern Swiss cuisine, including a four-course tasting menu. restauranttaverne.ch • Restaurant Piz Gloria is the 360-degree revolving restaurant on top of the Schilthorn. Choose from a menu of typical regional dishes, Bond-branded burgers or the all-you-can eat brunch. schilthorn.ch

For more information, go to: jungfrauregion.swiss, interlaken.ch and be-welcome.ch

REDISCOVERING

RHODES

Boasting thousands of years of important Mediterranean history and culture, we explore the many-layered isle of Helios Words Juliet Rix

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hen Zeus shared out the earth between the Gods, Helios the sun god was absent. He was left with nothing, until out of the sea rose a beautiful island. Claiming it as his own and naming it after his sea nymph lover Rhodos, Helios has been its protector ever since, or so the story goes. Certainly, Rhodes is blessed with plenty of sun, as well as emerald seas, golden beaches, whitewashed villages tucked into dramatic rocky landscapes, and many of the other attributes of an ideal Greek island. Rhodes Town however is far from typically Greek, and there are clues all over the island to its unique and variegated history, as layered as a delicious local filo pastry pie. Rhodes has in fact been ruled by Greeks for less than a third of the last 1,000 years. The Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is marked particularly by two pre-20th-century cultures – neither of them Greek – and it passed from one to the other 500 years ago this year. I was going to spend a week exploring the historic sites of this ancient island, hoping that Homer was correct when he described Helios as a god who ‘gives joy to mortals’.

EXPLORING THE OLD TOWN

Masterpiece for a Master The origins of The Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes date all the way back to the 7th century, but its imposing features were added during the extensive renovations in the 14th and 15th centuries; (previous spread) Twilight at Hippocrates Square, Rhodes Old Town

We arrived at night through St Athanasios Gate, the very same spot where the Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent is said to have first entered the city after seizing it in a six-month siege in 1522. He took it from the Knights of St John Hospitaller, the Catholic warrior monks who had ruled Rhodes for more than 200 years. And five centuries later, our zigzag route into the Old Town ran beneath an arch still emblazoned with the Knights’ coat of arms, across a triple bridge over their deep dry moats, and through a tunnel in their bastion walls. Emerging onto a tiny street barely wider than the golf buggy that we and our luggage were travelling in, we zipped along atmospheric alleys between rough stone houses, some more than half a millennium old, and beneath anti-earthquake buttresses creating vaulted passageways with ceilings of starlit sky. We woke the next day in the heart of the Medieval quarter, looking down into the courtyard of the tiny 13th-century church of St Finourios (or Phinourios), its arched interior boasting Byzantine wall paintings, albeit somewhat damaged by time. The saint is known for helping to find lost things, so I popped in and paid my respects, asking him please to bless our trip pre-emptively so I wouldn’t need to bother him again. This little church is unusual in being active. Almost all the Old Town’s pre-1522 Christian places of worship were converted into mosques under the Ottomans. While the minarets were removed after the Turks in their turn were displaced by the Italians in 1912, the churches were never re-consecrated and are now ‘monuments’ or museums. The Ottomans built new mosques too, of course, and just around the corner in Dorieos Square I found the terracotta-domed rear of Agios Finourios almost bumping up against the Retzep Pasha Mosque (built 1588), its elegantly ⊲

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A Rhodes ramble (clockwise from top left) As the main focal point of the Old Town, the Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes has been a key government building for the Knights Hospitallers, the Ottomans and, in the 20th century, the Italians, before being transferred to the Greeks at the end of the Second World War; life in the narrow lanes of the Jewish Quarter, in the Old Town’s south-east corner; the ‘Street of the Knights’ (Ippoton) housed the forces of the Knights Hospitaller, with each nationality – or rather language – getting its own inn on the street; medieval deer statues now mark the spot where the Colossus of Rhodes may have stood

The Greek God stares across the road at the Church of the Annunciation, an exact Italian replica of the Knights’ early-14th-century Church of St John (the original, by the Grand Master’s Palace, was also destroyed in the explosion). The exterior is plain, even dour, as intended by the military monks, but the interior belongs to the post1947 modern Greek era and harks back to before the Knights. It is covered in a panoply of Byzantine-style Greek Orthodox paintings. We wandered back through the City Walls, beneath bastions striped with arrow slits, embellished with bougainvillea and little caper bushes sprouting between the bricks. After passing the remains of a third century BC Temple ON THE TRAIL OF THE KNIGHTS of Aphrodite (patron goddess of sailors) and the cobbled, This citadel city was founded in 408 BC when the island’s three plain-faced Street of the Knights where they lived in their city states, Lindos, Kamiros and Ialysos, joined together as language groups, we entered an expansive arcaded courtone – and thrived. The walls include many ancient stones, but yard. Guarded by a Hellenistic lion that once stood on the in the Old Town at least, this period survives most vividly in ancient city’s acropolis, this is both the most untouched of early descriptions. We learn, for instance, that having seen off the Knights’ buildings – their late 15th-century hospital – a siege in 304-303 BC, the relieved victors gave thanks to their and today’s Archaeological Museum. protector by creating one of the Seven Wonders of the World, Here, where the Knights Hospitaller once tended a shining 32m bronze of Helios – the Colossus of Rhodes. their patients, we traced the island’s past – and its web “It probably did not stand astride the harbour entrance as of connections spanning Sicily, Egypt, even Cornwall – it’s often depicted,” said our excellent through pottery, grave goods, votive guide, Maria Morava, as we stood offerings, ancient inscriptions and alongside the deer-topped columns “We wandered through sculptures from Rhodes’ artistic and the Knights’ St Nicholas fortress the City Walls, beneath heyday. “There was a time,” said that now greet arrivals by sea, “otherMorava, “when they were churning bastions striped with wise when it fell in the earthquake of out statues so fast that even private 227 BC it would have fallen into the arrow slits, embellished individuals had them. Cassius took water. In fact, it was described still with bougainvillea and 3,000 statues off to Rome in 43 BC lying on the ground 250 years later. but there were plenty left.” A couple little caper bushes “It most likely stood there,” she of the most impressive, a crouching sprouting between added, pointing towards the tower of Aphrodite and a head of Helios, were the Knights’ Grand Master’s Palace away at a show in Athens but due to the bricks” rising above the fortifications, “That be returned in 2022. was the lower acropolis of the ancient Most extraordinary of all the city. The most important places, physical and psychological, exhibits was a set of bronze-framed monocular lenses used are usually taken over by each new power.” for engraving, each marked with its focal length. I’d have The fortress-like Palace of the Grand Master – now guessed they were 17th century; in fact, they date from the housing impressive Greek, Roman and Byzantine mosaics, 7th-6th century BC. These little instruments alone testify to mostly from Kos – was certainly claimed by the Ottomans. the sophistication of the communities on Rhodes at the time They remained the administrative heart of the island until of the three ancient city-states. So we headed out of town in its destruction in a gunpowder store explosion in 1856. It search of the remains of these remarkable societies. was rebuilt – accurately on the outside, not so within – by the Italians who, having taken Rhodes from the Ottomans, HEADING SOUTH were keen to quickly establish their (Christian) legitimacy After a glorious swim at sweeping Tsambika by laying claim to the island’s pre-Islamic history. Most of Beach (we wondered why the far end was so the extensive Knights’ city we see today is the result of Italian popular – turned out it was the nudist beach), restoration and rebuilding, although the two are sometimes we made a brief stop at the dramatic clifftop ruins of the Knights’ Faraklou Castle before arriving hard to untangle. They also built frantically afresh. Between the Old Town at the picture-postcard town of Lindos. A thrivwalls and Mandraki Harbour we passed a parade of their ing settlement for more than two-and-a-half monumental public buildings. Those from the 1910s and millennia, the town is cut into the cliffs above ’20s are in an enjoyable syncretic style – combining archi- beautiful, beach-fringed bays, and topped with tectural elements of classical, Knights-period, Ottoman and a towering, night-lit, acropolis. Occupied modern – while those of the ’30s and early ’40s are typi- since Neolithic times, this high point was cally, belittlingly fascist. Most are still used for their original fortified and sanctified by (at least) the Ancient purpose, including the main post office with its appropriated Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, the Knights roundel of Helios above the door. and the Ottomans. ⊲

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carved façade now closed off for restoration. The ritual fountain out in the square, though, is well-preserved, columned, latticed and prettily dappled beneath a giant ficus tree. The city’s highest point, the top of the 19th-century clock tower (€5, including a drink in the neighbouring café), is the perfect place to get your bearings. I climbed the winding steps to find, spread beneath me, a jigsaw-jumble of roofs and alleyways punctuated by towers and domes alternately topped with crescents and crosses. Neatly encircling it all are powerful fortifications flanked by the sparkling harbours that made this place so desirable to the region’s traders and invaders, from far earlier than either the Knights or the Ottomans.

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Rhodes rooftops The characteristic white rooftops of Lindos looking towards the acropolis, sitting over 100m above the town and dating back to the 3rd century BC

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Beyond the Old Town (this page, clockwise from top left) The remains of the ancient Ialysos acropolis are found in the grounds surrounding the 15th-century Monastery of Panagia Philerimos; the 4th century BC Temple of Athena Lindia at Lindos, dedicated to the goddess Athena; a peacock at Philerimos Monastery; the ruins of Kamiros – one of the island’s three large Doric cities – along with Ialysos and Lindos – that united in the 5th century BC to create the city-state of Rhodes; (opposite page, top) the ruins of the 15th-century Monolithos Castle keep a watchful eye over the Aegean Sea

Alamy; Juliet Rix

We stayed the night (wishing to see Lindos without 100-metre monolith atop which perches a romantic castle day-trippers) and spent the evening chatting over grappa ruin where we joined a gaggle of tourists gathered for a panoat one of the island’s best restaurants. Wandering the tiny, ramic sunset. By day, it is deserted, but for elegant Eleanora’s pretty pedestrian paths that wind between whitewashed falcons circling overhead. buildings, we spotted characteristic rope-patterned doorIt was equally calm at Kamiros, just a little further up frames, legacy of Lindos’s time as a centre of pan-Medi- the coast, as we explored the expansive archaeological terranean maritime trade. This past is celebrated too at the site that displayed all the key elements of the city, rebuilt entrance to the acropolis, where the prow of a near-life-size after the earthquake in 227 BC. From the high acropolis, ship is cut cleanly into the rock. It looks as if it was done last complete with piped water system and 200m stoa, we then century, but dates from 180 BC. descended along streets that swept amphitheatrically down Passing through Knights’ fortifications and a Hellenis- to the public spaces below – the agora, temples, fountain, tic stoa (arcade) once filled with shops (not unlike those sanctuaries to the gods, a later Roman bathhouse, and of that crowd the lower slopes today), course, an altar to Helios, the protecwe reached the crowning glory of tor of Rhodes. the acropolis, the Temple of Athena His sun rose strongly off the honey“At the entrance Lindia, completed around the coloured stone so we stopped for to Lindos’ acropolis, a refreshing dip in the sea before 4th century BC. Its now-roofless Doric columns rose from the rock’s the prow of a near-life- heading on up the coast to complete trio. The monastery of Phileripeak into the clear blue sky. size ship is cut cleanly the mos, on the site of a Byzantine castle None of the trio of city-state sites into the rock. It looks that sits on the ancient acropolis has much left from their pre-merger heydays. But at the southernmost of Ialysos was an appropriate place as if it was done last to end our many-layered journey. tip of Rhodes, past the Cape with century, but dates its sweeping double beach that links Peacocks posed on the stones of Prassonissi island to the mainland at a Temple of Athena lining the forefrom 180 BC” low tide, we found the extraordinary court of the Gothic-style monassite of seventh-to-sixth-century BC tery built by the Knights of St John. Archaic Vroulia, a short-lived settlement perhaps serving A highly decorated little underground chapel, once as an intermediate harbour for the cities. We traced a long a knight’s tomb, was re-dedicated to St George, the custoterrace of excavated living quarters tucked against a forti- dian tells me, “perhaps because the next power, the Ottofication wall that rose up the hillside until we reached what mans, did not disapprove of him”. archaeologists have identified as a defensive tower and a Rhodes has seen rulers come and go for millennia, sanctuary. It’s an evocative site surrounded by azure sea but ask any local and they will tell you that the people and, unlike in busy Lindos, we were quite alone. have always felt “Greek, Greek, Greek”. This is perhaps why, despite the return to rule by Greece and the Greek REMARKABLE RHODES Orthodox Church, they still hold on to the legendary omniAnd so we mostly remained on our final stretch, driving up presence of Helios. As we turned to go, the sun glinted off the west coast, through wild landscapes of sandstone-striped the carved column-tops of the ancient temple and, behind mountains gleaming in the evening sun. This was the case it, lit up the Medieval cross of the Catholic Knights; Helios, until we reached Monolithos, named for the dramatic in his undoubted Greekness, seems to be claiming it all. ⊲

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The author travelled with Sunvil (sunvil.co.uk; 020 8568 4499), who offer a week in Rhodes (B&B) with 5 nights at the 2* Paris Hotel in the heart of the Old Town and 2 nights at Limeri (Monolithos), including international flights and transfers; based on two sharing in mid-May 2022, for £967pp.

Vital statistics

Capital: Rhodes Town Population: About 115,000 (of whom 50,000 are in Rhodes Town) Language: Greek Time: GMT+2 International Dialling Code: +30 Visas and entry: Rhodes is part of Greece and the EU, so UK visitors have visa-free access for up to 90 days in any 180-day period. At the time of press, visitors will need to fill in a passenger locator form (PLF) and prove full vaccination at least 14 days before travel, recent recovery from COVID-19 or a very recent negative test. Check for the latest details here: www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/greece/ entry-requirements Money: Euro (€), currently €1.2 to the £1.

When to go

The season in Rhodes runs from about Easter to the end of October, after which many hotels and restaurants close.

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July-August Hot, dry, and crowded. April-June & Sept-Oct Perfect for combining sightseeing with sun and sea. Cheaper than the summer too. Nov-March Very quiet and whatever is open is much cheaper. Weather cooler and less reliable. A time to explore local Rhodes.

Health & safety

General safety in Rhodes is similar to the UK. For the latest information on any booster jabs to consider and health advice, see www. fitfortravel.nhs.uk. Measures against COVID-19 are generally a bit more stringent. At time of press, you may be required to show a COVID-19 pass as well as wearing a mask to enter indoor public spaces including museums and restaurants. Indoor areas are generally well-ventilated and some areas that cannot be ventilated may be closed. In bars and restaurants you are allowed to remove your mask once seated, or of course, you may prefer to eat outside, which, unless you are unlucky with the weather, is possible for at least three of

Map illustration: Scott Jessop; images: Alamy

THE TRIP

the four seasons. See the FCDO site (gov.uk) for the latest information.

Getting there

Multiple airlines offer the fourhour flight to Rhodes from London and regional airports, including British Airways; prices from around £150. Rhodes Diagoras International Airport sits on the north-west coast, a 35-40-minute drive from Rhodes Town. Taxis and car hire are readily available. Car is the easiest way to travel if going beyond Rhodes Town and Lindos. The author had a car from Butterfly (https:// butterfly-rentacar.eu). Distances are not large and main roads are excellent. Lindos is about an hour’s drive from the capital, the Cape about 1hr45mins. There are also buses and tourist day trips from Rhodes Town.

Cost of travel

Costs are generally lower than in the UK at any given level of comfort – and all levels are available from basic to luxury. Spring and autumn are cheaper than summer. You can eat extremely well without burning too much of a hole in your pocket, especially if you know that starters are often the size of main courses.

Map illustration: Scott Jessop; images: Alamy

Accommodation

There’s plenty of choice and it is easy to avoid the big chain hotels that cluster in Rhodes New Town and along the coast. Simply pick an historic or village location where only small establishments fit onto the tiny alleys. Paris Hotel (www.paris-hotel-rhodes. gr/en). Rooms are simple 2* but the large garden courtyard is a wonderful oasis of bonsai ficus trees, complete with partcovered al fresco bar/restaurant. Its location in the heart of the medieval city is hard to beat. Owner Paris will collect you and luggage from the nearest Old Town gate. Doubles/twin B&B from about £80. Melenos, Lindos (www.melenoslindos. com). A beautiful boutique hotel terraced into the hillside between the top of the village and the base of the acropolis. It boasts Ottoman-style décor with huge comfortable platform beds and sea views. Staff will collect you from the car park at the main road. Doubles B&B from £197. Limeri, Monolithos (www.limeri.gr) An exceptionally good-value 10-room guesthouse in the village, walking distance from the castle. Excellent restaurant

servicing rustic local food and a bonanza breakfast. Very comfortable beds too and some rooms with modern wood-burning stoves for cooler weather. There’s an open fire downstairs in winter when the hotel remains open at weekends. Doubles B&B from €69 (£59), €49 (£41) without breakfast.

Food & drink

Rhodes is full of excellent local food at reasonable prices. Best to avoid the touts; really good places rarely need to drag you in. Auvergne Café & Wine Bar (www. auvergnecafe.gr). At the bottom of the Street of the Knights, the original 15th-century home to the Knights of Auvergne comes complete with a cobbled courtyard shaded by a giant ficus tree. Serves wine from one of the largest lists in Greece, quality coffee and both traditional and international food. For an excellent-value light lunch try the fava-bean paste with soft red onion and crispy Rhodian pitta (€4.50/££4). To Marouli (www.facebook.com/ tomarouli). This unpretentious vegetarianvegan restaurant in the heart of the Old Town serves modern takes on traditional dishes, including delicious grilled manouri cheese with poached pears and rocket (€8/£6.50), and a good selection of beers. Mavrikos, Lindos (+30 2244 031232) If you want to push the boat out and try something a bit different, Mavrikos offers Michelin-style unusual twists on traditional recipes. I’d especially recommend the fennel cooked in white wine with feta paste (€13/£11) and a chat with co-owner Michalis Mavrikos if he isn’t too busy. Meltemi, Rhodes New Town (www. facebook.com/MeltemiRestaurant). At the start of the municipal beach that leads up to the northern tip of the island, with views across the sea to Turkey, this is a beach taverna with very good food – expect a varied menu, all the staples and large portions. The smoked cheese with grilled zucchini (€7.50/£6) is particularly delicious.

Further reading & information

The Blue Guide is excellent for history but is not so up-to-date (last published in 1997). The Greek National Tourist Office information on Rhodes can be found at www. visitgreece.gr/islands/dodecanese/rhodes. In Rhodes, the Tourist Information Office just outside the Old Town (3 Averof Street) is very helpful.

RHODES HIGHLIGHTS mysteries of the moat 1 The

Between the outer city walls of the Old Town of Rhodes dips the deep, dry moat. Walking around it offers an invader’s eye view that makes it quite clear why this city stood secure for 200 years.

Ottoman cemetery 2 The

Under-visited and overgrown. Where Ottoman cannons stood to fire on the Knights in 1522, there is now a derelict mosque, a little yellow villa once lived in by Lawrence Durrell and, half-hidden beneath untamed vegetation, a multitude of white-stone tombs, skilfully carved with turbans and fez hats, curlicues and calligraphy.

beneath fortifications 3 Atheswim

A local tip led us to a dip off a tiny patch of beach directly below the fortifications of the Old Town, close to Elaftherias Gate, where clear water lapped at the stony sand.

4Faraklou Castle

Originally built by the Byzantines, this fort was the first to fall to the Knights in 1306. There are views along the coast and at the base of the cliff are two natural caves used to hide people and goods during the Second World War (bring a torch).

melekouni in Monolithos 5Munching

Melekouni is Rhodes’ traditional energy bar – a mix of sesame seeds and thyme honey, sometimes with added orange or spices. It gives you such a boost that it was considered a form of doping at the Ancient Greek Olympics, with athletes banned from eating it.

WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Greece: Wanderlust Travel Guide – https://www.wanderlust.co.uk/ destinations/Greece/ There’s plenty of video guides around of Rhodes Old Town on youtube.com

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RHODES, GREECE FOOTNOTES

SUMMER

IN VALAIS

FOUR REASONS VALAIS MAKES FOR THE PERFECT SWISS SUMMER GETAWAY

Wine tasting in sun-drenched vineyards, hiking and wildlife-spotting in the mountains, relaxing in thermal waters… the canton of Valais in southern Switzerland has all the ingredients for the perfect summer escape

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BE AT ONE WITH NATURE Spring into summer (from left) The UNESCO-listed Great Aletsch Glacier is the longest glacier in the Alps and stretches for 20km; hiking along a bisse (irrigation channel) in Nendaz

To book your Valais experience, go to: visitvalais.ch/shop

With more than 40 mountain peaks over 4,000m, the largest glacier in the Alps and wonderful wildlife, the Valais region’s natural assets are myriad. Start your wild adventure in the glacier-carved plateau that sweeps through the Valais, the Rhone Valley’s sunny plains filled with apricot orchards and vineyards. Don’t miss the incredible UNESCO-listed Great Aletsch Glacier, the longest glacier in the Alps. This 20km river of ice in the eastern corner of the Valais is accessed via cable car from the valley floor – or can be viewed from above on a paragliding flight, if you have a head for heights. The nearby Villa Cassel, built in 1902 as the residency for Sir Ernest Cassel, is now a Pro Natura Centre Aletsch and was the first nature conservation centre in Switzerland. Don’t miss its exhibition about the effects of global warming on the glacier and the efforts being to slow its – ultimately unstoppable – disappearance. Either side of the Rhone Valley, villages cling to the steep mountain slopes, each offering different ways to reconnect with nature. In Leukerbad, for example, you can bathe in natural thermal waters that have been prized since Roman times, while over at Veysonnaz you can practise yoga on a specially designed trail in the Magrappé larch forest. In the Region Dents du Midi, a collection of six villages in the Val d’Illiez, join a local herbalist and mountain guide for a hike or e-bike tour of the slopes above Champéry. Along the way you’ll stop to pick cumin seeds, wild rhubarb and nettles, which can be used to create a truly organic picnic – listen out for marmots trilling in the background as you tuck in. For more wildlife spotting, head to the southern Valais village of Saas-Fee where ibex can be seen along the Ibex Trail, a high alpine hiking route starting at the top of the Hannig cable car. Finding one of these shy mountain goats among the rocky scrub or larch forest is reward enough for your exertions on the four-hour walk, even without the view of the glaciers and high peaks of the Mischabel massif from the hike’s highest point, the Mällig at 2,700m. Easier to spot are Valais’ blacknose sheep, since they’re fitted with GPS trackers. Take the Gornergrat Bahn from the village up to Gornergrat and use your mobile to track down these native Valais sheep, with their shaggy cream fleeces and dark brown faces, who are usually perfectly posed for photos in view of the Matterhorn.

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With more than 8,000 kilometres of signposted hiking trails, the path never seems to run out in the Valais, and the Aletsch Arena is a beautiful place to practise this Swiss national pastime. For an easy but satisfying stroll, take the cable car up to Moosfluh and follow the marked trail to Riederfurka to enjoy views of the the Great Aletsch Glacier. More adventurous hikers may prefer to start at Bettmerhorn and walk down a rocky path towards Roti Chumma for a much closer view of the glacier’s stately sweep of ice. Another top hike in the Valais is to follow one of the area’s many bisses, ancient irrigation channels built to transport water to farmland, which are now mainly used as easy, fairly flat hiking routes. In the small, car-free mountain resort of Rosswald, follow the water trickling along the Bergwasser bisse, which takes you through a forest, far above the Ganter valley and to the Ganter bridge on the road up to the Simplonpass. Near the top of the trail is the isolated village of Stafel, a collection of old wooden houses now mostly used as holiday homes. With no noise except the chirp of crickets in the summer heat, this is a rare pocket of seclusion in a constantly connected world, and a blissful place to switch off. Other villages making the most of their bisses are Nendaz and Veysonnaz, located in the heart of the 4 Vallées ski area, which also offers a gastronomic hiking tour called Rando’Miam (loosely translated as Yummy Walk) along the mid-19th century Bisse de Chervé. This now dried up waterway makes for an easy stroll through forest and alpine pastures to Siviez, and both ends of the walk are accessible via cable car.

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Along the way, hungry hikers can enjoy a starter, main course and dessert at three different restaurants, including the memorable Les Chottes, a former cow barn that has been transformed into a cosy restaurant; the interior still contains the cauldrons and original storehouse once used for cheesemaking. Les Chottes is also a welcome stop on the Nendaz Trekking trip, a three-to-four-day hiking tour around Veysonnaz and neighbouring Nendaz. Walking a different trail each day and staying the night in mountain cabins along the way makes for a truly Swiss experience. Another multi-day trek can be enjoyed further west, around the scenic Val d’Illiez on the 42.5 kilometre Dents du Midi trail.

Peak performance (from top to bottom) The Valais region is home to more than 8,000km of signposted hiking trails, perfect for summer strolls; walking in the Val d’Illiez in the Region Dents du Midi offers incredible views

Previous spread: ©Valais/Wallis Promotion - Pascal Gertschen; ©Valais/Wallis Promotion -David Carlier This spread: ©Valais/Wallis Promotion -David Carlier; TMR; Puzzle Media

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GET HIGH ON HIKING

RELAX ON THE RAILS

the view of 29 4,000m peaks, including the Matterhorn and Dufourspitze. For culinary treats along the way, buy the gourmet ticket which allows you to hop on and off the train to enjoy an aperitif at the highest hotel in the Swiss Alps, a three course lunch at the Hotel Riffelhaus on the Riffelberg, and desert at Restaurant Alphitta on the Riffelap. Don’t miss the Zooom exhibition on the Gornergrat, which features a virtual reality paragliding experience of flying over the Matterhorn.

Historic tracks (top to bottom) The Mont Blanc Express has connected Martigny to Chamonix for over a century; view over SaasGrund from the Triftalp

Previous spread: ©Valais/Wallis Promotion - Pascal Gertschen; ©Valais/Wallis Promotion -David Carlier This spread: ©Valais/Wallis Promotion -David Carlier; TMR; Puzzle Media

Switzerland’s scenery looks great from a train and one of the area’s prettiest rides is the Mont Blanc Express which starts at Martigny. It ascends through the Trient valley, passing forests and tunnels, gorges and villages. At Les Marécottes, cool off at the natural outdoor swimming pool, before continuing to Le Châtelard to the VerticAlp Emosson funpark to ride one of the world’s steepest funicular railways. Originally built to transport workmen building a dam in the mountains above, the funicular has been in service for more than 100 years. From the top of the VerticAlp, take a seat in the small-gauge train, before riding the Minifunic lift up to the Emosson dam. This 180m concrete wall supports the turquoise water of the country’s second largest glacial reservoir, and is the start of many hiking trails, including the multi-day Tour du Ruan. Another fine rail ride is the Gornergrat Bahn. Trains on Europe’s highest open-air cog railway run every 24 minutes from Zermatt up to the viewing platform at 3,089m. Enjoy

To book your Valais experience, go to: visitvalais.ch/shop

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Beautiful Brig A visit to the Stockalper Palace in Brig not only allows you to admire the fine architecture, but reveals the life of the man who had it built, Kaspar Stockalper. The trader made a fortune selling everything from salt to slugs and his palace was the biggest to be built in the 17th century; the Assiette valaisanne, or Valais platter, is a spread of rye bread, local cheeses and dried meats which has been awarded an Indication of Geographic Protection

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION How to get there and around:

The Valais is accessible by direct train from Geneva and Zurich airports. Swiss national railways links to regional trains including the Mont Blanc Express from Martigny and the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn from Brig to Zermatt, as well as to the PostBus network serving mountain villages. When to go: Cabins and hiking trails are open from mid-June to the end of October. July and August can be hot, even at high altitude, while September and October bring cooler weather and golden colours in the trees. To book the Valais experience, go to: visitvalais.ch/shop

To book your Valais experience, go to: visitvalais.ch/shop

INDULGE YOUR CULTURAL APPETITE The appeal of the Valais doesn’t only lie in its natural attributes; the region is packed with cultural and gastronomic attractions, too. In the lively town of Brig for example – whose cobbled Old Town thrives with restaurants and bars – is the Stockalper Palace, its ‘onion’topped towers visible throughout the town. Built by Kaspar Stockalper, a wealthy 17th century entrepreneur and merchant, the castle museum and gardens are worth a visit, while the courtyard hosts open-air cinemas in summer. While in the Rhone Valley, take time to sample local produce from its vineyards, orchards and farms. Join a wine discovery tour in the regional capital, Sion, to learn why the Valais is the largest wine-growing area in Switzerland, before sampling five typical wines of the region. Wine pairs perfectly with the area’s trademark dish, the Assiette valaisanne (Valais platter), a spread of rye bread, local cheeses and dried meats which is served both in city restaurants and at mountain huts along hiking routes, where the produce on the platter is locally sourced and has been awarded an Indication of Geographic Protection. Alternatively, compile a picnic of all that delicious fresh local food to take with you on a hike. History buffs will enjoy the Gemmi Pass, a historic hiking route that has existed since the 15th century. The path will take you from Leukerbad to Kandersteg which featured on the first organised tour of Switzerland in 1863, arranged by the famous British tour company founder, Thomas Cook. Once back in the village, refuel with a well-deserved Raclette du Valais AOP. The hearty melting cheese is produced in the canton and has had a protected designation of origin since 2007, and is bound to leave you with a lasting taste of this incredible part of Switzerland.

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New York State’s hidden wine country, Bolivia's original capital, and recovering Namibia’s lost traditions – we investigate the places and happenings you need to know about…

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Double bill: Rennes & Nantes

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Hidden USA: The Finger Lakes, NY

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Indigenous cultures: Namibia

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Heritage: Colonia del Sacramento

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British break: Pembrokeshire

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Off-grid: Sucre, Bolivia

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Short break: Thuringia, Germany

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View from above: Guanajuato

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A castle to sing about Eisenach’s Wartburg Castle may have inspired Richard Wagner to pen an opera, but there’s plenty more inspiration to be found in the lush valleys and rolling hills of Thuringia, Germany’s “green heart”, as we discover this issue; p188

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History

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Take a walking tour to see the sights, including Rue Saint-Michel, known by locals as Rue de la Soif – ‘thirsty street’ – thanks to the number of bars squeezed into its 87m length. Stroll the elegant boutique-lined streets and stop off at Place de la Mairie to admire the concave Hotel de Ville and the rotunda of the opera house opposite. Rennes’ most modern area is south of the La Vilaine river where you’ll find Les Champs Libres arts centre, complete with exhibition space, library and planetarium.

A green line painted on the pavements leads you between all the major sites, from its chateau to the parks and a host of street art installations, whether they be permanent or new for each season’s Voyage à Nantes art project. The most impressive creations, however, are the Machines de Nantes on the Ile de Nantes. Admire the 12m robotic elephant as it stomps around the concourse, or the three-storey steampunk-style carousel or venture into the gallery to see future machines being crafted.

The city’s Parc du Thabor is a beautifully landscaped park complete with rose and dahlia garden, waterfalls and bridges, as well as its own orangery gallery and outdoor theatre space. The park covers ten hectares in the north-east area of the city. Nearby is the wilder but equally attractive Parc Hamelin-Oberthür, the garden of the residence of a famous Rennais printmaker. It has a lake which is home to abundant birdlife and ancient trees.

The art installations continue along the River Loire to Saint-Nazaire, so cycle out along the leafy track to see the Villa Cheminée, a tiny cottage set atop a giant red-and-white-striped chimney; a giant serpent in the water; and ‘Misconceivable’, a yacht that appears to be taking its own nosedive off the quayside. The Machines de Nantes’ latest creation is taking shape in a former quarry that has been transformed into the Extraordinary Garden with waterfalls, lakes and exotic plants.

The city has a huge variety of restaurants with cuisines from all over the world.The Rue Nantaise is a hub of great places to eat and has embraced the ‘bistronomy’ scene, which means top class gastronomy in a more casual bistro setting. At the restaurant Coquille, chef Arnaud Guilloux uses local produce for his seasonal dishes, which incorporate global influences thanks to his years working around the world. Don’t miss the Saturday market in Place des Lices, it’s one of the best in France.

From the art nouveau brasserie La Cigale, with its exotic frescoes and tiles, to the summertime La Cantine on the Ile de Nantes, which creates a daily dish with ingredients from its own garden, Nantes has something for everyone. Having a Breton heart, Nantes does galettes very well, so try a light lunch at Crêperie L’Optimiste. For somewhere more sophisticated, head a little way from the centre to Ici, a chic bistro led by chef Xavier Rambaud, who settled in Nantes after much globe-trotting.

The four-star Le Coq-Gadby is a ten-minute walk from the centre and adopted eco-friendly operations in 2008, including solar panels, rainwater harvesting and efficient waste management. Rooms are individually designed with striking feature wallpaper, and there’s a small spa, too. Room-only doubles from €119; https://www.lecoq-gadby.com

The four-star Hotel Sozo is set in a converted chapel near the Jardin des Plantes. It blends ancient and modern well, with fresh white decor set off with pops of colour and the original features of the chapel, such as stone arches and stainedglass windows. Room-only doubles from €250; www.sozohotel.fr

Population: 314,138 Area: 65 km sq Famous for: its street art installations, fascinating chequered history and riverside setting.

Need to know

The fastest train between Rennes and Nantes takes 1hr 15 minutes. By car, it takes about an hour and half and it’s an easy drive. If you want to take a scenic route, strike out towards the coast and explore the peninsula at Le Croisic then follow the River Loire to Nantes.

How to get there

Take the ferry via Portsmouth and Saint Malo (£328), then drive south to Rennes for an hour. Alternatively, take the train from London via Paris to Rennes or Nantes, which takes 5-6 hours (from £100). Easyjet flies from Gatwick to Nantes (from £65).

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Nantes

Although it is now in the Pays de la Loire region, Nantes was the capital of Brittany for centuries in the Middle Ages, and as such still has a very Breton identity. The exhibits inside the Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne tell the story of its tumultuous past, which includes its role as a major ship-building hub in the 18th century and early 19th century. It’s also famous as the birthplace of Jules Verne and for the being the home of LU biscuits, as well loved as McVitie’s is in the UK.

Around town

Nantes

Rennes

Boasting over 2,000 years of combatative Gallic, Roman and Medieval history, Brittany’s administrative centre has a feel of a mini-capital city complete with a parliament building in its own stately square. A fire destroyed much of the city in 1720, after which it was rebuilt with Haussmann-style apartments and elegant avenues. The compact oldest district, however, still has crooked timber-framed buildings towering over such squares as Place des Lices and Place du Champ Jacquet.

Surrounding nature

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Population: 218,000 Area: 50 km sq Famous for: its timberframed architecture and buzzing atmosphere thanks to its large student population.

Shutterstock; Alamy

Rennes

Food & drink

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These two Breton cities are proud of their heritage yet are young, vibrant and exciting, says Carolyn Boyd

Where to stay

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AT A GLANCE

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Bedazzling Brittany (clockwise from top left) Nantes’ Place Royale square – with its elaborate fountain built in 1865 – was painstakingly reconstructed after being badly damaged during the Second World War; the 12m Great Elephant takes passengers for a stroll on the Ile de Nantes, sitting in the River Loire – 2022’s big art construction of a giant steel tree will begin what will eventually be a kilometres’ worth of walkways along its branches; half-timbered houses at the Place des Lices Square in Rennes’ historic old town; the 11th-century Chateau de Josselin looms over the Oust river; (left page) the entrance to Rennes’ Parc du Thabor

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DISCOVER France

HIDDEN USA VERSION REPRO OP

Hidden Finger Lakes

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Once one of Upstate New York’s least heralded regions, the Finger Lakes has a rising food scene, long history and celebrated wine country – and that’s before you even set foot in the water Words Carol Cain

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CLIENT

Water, water everywhere… (clockwise from this) Cayuga, like many of the lakes in this region, was once used for commercial transportation, with horse-powered ferries (yes, it worked like a hamster wheel, powering a propeller) carrying passengers to and fro; the Finger Lakes has more than 140 wineries; statues of Susan B Anthony, Amelia Bloomer and Elizabeth Cady Stanton commemorate the USA’s first women’s rights convention in Seneca Falls in 1848; the Seneca Lake pier and pavilion in Watkins Glen; many vineyards in the area run wine tours

Alamy; AWL Images; Shutterstock

NEED TO KNOW Getting there: Both Greater Rochester International Airport (ROC) and Syracuse Hancock International Airport (SYR) are well served by flights. They are in good-sized cities (Rochester and Syracuse, respectively) and most major airlines fly there. The region itself is best experienced by car, with the expectation that, because of the size of the lakes, the average travel time from one lakeside spot to another is going to be around a 40-minute drive. Both of the airports mentioned here are between 1.5 and 2 hours from the wine country region, which can also be explored via various trails. Where to stay: There are a variety of lodging options available across the area, including plenty of upscale stays with waterfront views, such as The Lake House on Canandaigua (lakehousecanandaigua.com) or Geneva on The Lake (genevaonthelake. com). Alternatively, if you prefer to wake up to pine-scented air, there’s glamping at Seneca Sol (senecasol.com) and Firelight Camps (firelightcamps.com), both of which are not far from Ithaca. Local tip: Reserve your wine tastings in advance and know that some wineries limit group sizes to six or eight. Also, note that while wineries close at 5pm, breweries stay open later, often hosting live music. Some lake and waterfall access points require a parking entry fee, so have cash handy. You can book a wine tour if you would rather not worry about driving. Experience Finger Lakes (experiencefingerlakes.com) are just one of many good local options available. Info: fingerlakes.org

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he Finger Lakes region of NewYork State is just a short drive from some of the North-East’s most popular metropolitan areas, such as New York City, Washington DC, Philadelphia and even Canada’s Toronto. But for those who visit any of its 14 counties, 11 lakes and countless picturesque small towns, it can often feel like you’re stepping into another world entirely. What sets the region apart from the rest of New York State are not just its crashing waterfalls and lush forests that tumble down craggy rock faces, but the historic moments that occurred here down the years. From the dawn of the women’s suffrage movement in Seneca Falls to the anti-slavery efforts undertaken by those in the Underground Railroad and elsewhere, which helped so many slaves escape bondage, there is plenty to explore beyond leafy landscapes. The region was home to the father of naval aviation, Glenn Curtiss, too, who was raised on the banks of Lake Keuka in Hammondsport.This was also where the first cooperative vineyard in the Finger Lakes was planted in 1860. Now the land is covered in wineries. Food and drink is a big part of life here. The area has evolved into the USA’s premier craft cider-making region in recent years, while the villages scattering the lakes have long since embraced viticulture. Wine tours are an exhilarating way to both explore the region and taste some of the bounty it offers. A great place to kick off a first-time visit, outside of the major cities, is Ithaca, known for its waterfalls, downtown walkability and its lively food and brewery scene. Stay at the Argos Inn (argosinn.com), a boutique hotel with a nostalgic in-house bar that is also just a few steps from downtown. South-west of Ithaca, the town of Corning is also easy to navigate on foot, and it has a main street with lots of food and drink options, as well as an abundance of interesting museums to peruse. Alternatively, pay a visit to the small village of Aurora, which makes for a serene lakeside escape with plenty of historic homes to nose around. During the summer you can swim at Long Point State Park, fill up on treats at the farmers’ market or enjoy scenic drives along the Cayuga Wine Trail. Make your base at the Aurora Inn (innsofaurora.com), which has a nearby spa overlooking the lake. Lastly, when deciding where to stay, especially in the more rural wine country, it’s important to remember that most major towns outside of the bigger cities are located at either the top or bottom of the lakes. Depending on your length of visit, it is best to navigate from one of these and stick to just a single area. It is important to keep in mind that seeing the entire region would take multiple visits, so don’t be worried ⊲ if you can’t squeeze everything in. There’s always next time.

DISCOVER New York State

HIGHLIGHTS

LETCHWORTH STATE PARK

The same glacial activity that helped carve the Finger Lakes over millions of years also served as architect to the massive gorges from which New York State’s most powerful waterfalls flow. Letchworth State Park’s dramatic scenery and stunning falls (over 50 of them) has not only been the inspiration for countless paintings, but also gifted it the nickname “the Grand Canyon of the East”. There are over 106km of trails to explore, including the Autism Nature Trail (autismnaturetrail.com), created specifically so that those with ASD and different levels of abilities can enjoy and explore this wild rocky landscape.

FINGER LAKES WINE COUNTRY

About 90% of New York State wines are produced in the Finger Lakes (fingerlakeswinecountry.com), with Riesling being its most popular varietal, though some respectable dry reds are starting to emerge.While there are wineries big and small scattered throughout the region, the largest concentration can be found around the Seneca, Keuka, and Cayuga lakes, each with its own feel, communities and activities. Herman J Wiemer Vineyard (wiemer.com) is among the most celebrated and hosts tastings of their Riesling and Chardonnay in an atmospheric barn setting on the western slope of Seneca Lake. Alternatively, Buttonwood Grove Winery (buttonwoodgrove.com), on Cayuga Lake, also makes for a scenic escape, combining vineyards views and tastings with cabin stays, fireside gatherings and concerts – do also try their Riesling pét-nat and dry rosé.

THE VILLAGE OF SKANEATELES

There are many quiet small towns and villages to explore around the region, but only Skaneateles is considered the “Jewel of The Finger Lakes”. Just a 30-minute drive from Syracuse, this charming village rewards with leafy streets lined with quaint shops and restaurants. The Mirbeau Inn and its world-class spa (mirbeau.com) makes for an indulgent stay, and the ease with which you can explore the nearby vineyards, ski slopes and farmers’ markets makes it a great spot to base yourself.

Down in the village (clockwise from top) Perched at the top of its eponymous lake, the quiet village of Skaneateles has become a popular getaway for city folk from nearby Syracuse and rewards with plenty of boutique shops and artisanal treats; Taughannock Falls plunges 66m past rocky cliffs, making it one of the highest drops east of the Rockies; Letchworth State Park has a scenic rim drive that skirts the Genesee Gorge and has viewpoints along the way of its giant arch bridge – there are also some 106km of bracing walking trails if you want to go it on foot instead

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DISCOVER New York State

THINGS TO DO Find your artistic side

The Corning Museum of Glass (home.cmog. org) is one of the world’s finest glass museums, attracting artisans from near and far to study, create and collaborate. Set in the small city of Corning, it is home to the largest collection of art glass in the world, picking its way through over 3,500 years of glassmaking history. You can not only enjoy live demonstrations, but there is also the opportunity to create your own works of art and bring them back home.

Explore forest trails

Around 1,600km of marked trails make up the Finger Lakes Trail system (fingerlakestrail. org), which runs from the Pennsylvania-New York border in Allegany State Park to the Long Path in the Catskill Forest Preserve. Some 48 of these trails thread their way through the Finger Lakes National Forest, the only one of its kind in New York State. It lies deep in the heart of wine country, between Seneca and Cayuga lakes, and as well as walking its trails, visitors will find plenty to do, from camping and lounging by the lake waters to vineyard visits, birdwatching, horseback riding and winter snowshoeing.

Learn about Indigenous culture

There is a long list of cultural sites to explore in the Finger Lakes, but to really immerse yourself in the heritage and history of its peoples, you can’t miss visiting the Ganondagan State Historic Site (ganondagan.org). It pays tribute to the indigenous Seneca community that founded the region and flourished here over 350 years ago. It is also based on the original site of a 17th century Seneca town, with guided and self-guided trails and tours offering valuable insights into its past.

Alamy; AWL Images; Shutterstock

Hit the waters

Driving the Finger Lakes offers a good taste of the region, but it doesn’t beat taking in the views from the water. There are a number of different ways to cruise the lakes, from public tours to private charters. Discover Cayuga Lake (discovercayugalake.org) offers a good selection, whether opting for an eco-tour to learn more about the wild habitat that thrives in the region, or a sunset cruise to spy the dying light bouncing off the early-evening waters. Some boat trips include visits to the Ithaca Farmers’ Market (ithacamarket.com), which is packed with local producers and street-food vendors. It’s a great way to connect with the community and slip into the slower pace of life found here.

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INDIGENOUS CULTURE

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Outside pressures have robbed Namibia’s indigenous peoples of many of their traditional ways. Now “Living Museums” are helping to restore what was taken, writes Emma Gregg

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he sheer remoteness of Namibia’s traditional rural communities is, in some ways, the key to their distinctiveness and resilience. Living a semi-disconnected life within challenging wilderness regions, far from urban influences, has helped cement many of the ancient customs and philosophies that other similar indigenous peoples have lost. That’s not to say that their lifestyles are frozen in time. Due to a combination of external pressures, environmental changes and personal preferences, very few Namibians live a fully nomadic life these days or, for example, wear entirely traditional attire on a daily basis. Nonetheless, many communities have taken steps to preserve their precious traditions, and community-run cultural heritage tourism projects are helping make this financially worthwhile. They are fitting partners for Namibia’s pioneering wildlife and habitat conservation projects, which recognise that the best way to promote biodiversity and keep the environment pristine is to ensure that rural communities prosper as a result. Visiting African tribal communities can be controversial, so it’s natural to wonder whether your experience will feel

exploitative, or even voyeuristic. The good news is that Namibia’s responsible tourism projects have been more than two decades in the making, long enough for communities (and tourists) to learn from their early mistakes and grow from them. Greater understanding on both sides has banished mutual awkwardness in favour of genuinely harmonious encounters where locals willingly share and discuss their ancestral knowledge and visitors come away with the feeling that they’ve actually taken part in something positive and worthwhile. Among the most successful projects are the Living Museums overseen by the Living Culture Foundation, a German-Namibian non-profit organisation set up in 2007. Scattered around northern Namibia’s rural communities, each represents a different ethnic group and offers hands-on cultural experiences delivered by local performers. As Rimunikavi Tjipurua, manager of the Living Museum of the Ovahimba people in Kunene, succinctly puts it: “They help us keep our traditions alive and enable us to send our children to school.”

The forgotten ways (top to bottom) Grashoek’s Living Museum of the Ju/’Hoansi-San was the first of its kind in Namibia, and has been run entirely by the Ju/’Hoansi since 2004, teaching visitors about life in a nomadic village; a woman from the Ovahimba Living Village gazes out over the Epupe Falls, one of the largest cascades on the Kunene River

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Six places to learn about traditional culture in Namibia

1 Windhoek

Most visitors to Namibia breeze through capital Windhoek at speed, heading out on safari almost as soon as they arrive. However, it’s well worth making time to visit the Independence Memorial Museum, which opened in 2014 and chronicles the nation’s liberation struggles. Next, to broaden your understanding of Namibia’s cultural diversity, dip into the dusty but dignified ethnographic exhibits at the National Museum of Namibia, which include Himba metalbead ornaments, a Dama hut made from woven grass, and images of the remarkable San rock art found in the Huns Mountains and at Twyfelfontein and Brandberg. museums.com.na

offers a chance to meet Namibia’s Himba people on their own terms.

Oshikoto Region

Launched in 2021, Namibia’s new Museum of Namibian Music (museums.com.na) has a suitably playful feel, with guitars made from metal jerry cans displayed alongside thumb pianos and tribal drums. The curators have taken care to document instruments specific to ethnic minorities, such as a Ju/’Hoansi-San guashi (bow lute), an Oshindonga ondhila made from an enormous kudu horn, and a mighty Lozi silimba, a xylophone with wooden keys and gourd resonators. There are recordings to watch, and it’s hoped that live events will be held here too.

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2 Erongo & Kunene Regions 4 Otjiwarongo, Otjozondjupa Region The multicultural township of Mondesa, on Swakopmund’s north-eastern fringes, is home to Owambo, Damara and Herero families. Mondesa Township Tours (mondesatownshiptours.com) show guests around by vehicle, bike or on foot, offering a chance to sample township cooking, visit a shebeen (local bar) and learn the origins of the cattlehorn-shaped headwear worn by Herero women. Further north, the Living Museum of the Damara (lcfn.info), near Twyfelfontein, stages cultural performances based on lost huntergatherer and herder culture, while the Living Museum of the Ovahimba, between Opuwo and Epupa Falls,

Namibia’s newest cultural centre, the Museum of Namibian Fashion (namibianfashion.com), is due to open in Otjiwarongo, 250km north of Windhoek, in 2022. Conceived in collaboration with the Ethnologisches Museum Berlin, which holds an important collection of Namibian artefacts, it is reactivating local knowledge of tribal clothing and ornamentation. By celebrating both traditional and modern dress as an expression of cultural identity, it hopes to help address the trauma of the colonial experience while hosting talks, workshops and projects to support Namibia’s creative industries.

Otjozondjupa Region 5 Tsumkwe,

Namibia’s original Living Museum (lcfn.info) in Grashoek, west of the remote town of Tsumkwe, and its sister museum in Xa oba, further north, are dedicated to the traditions of the Ju/’Hoansi, a subgroup of the long-marginalised San Bushmen. At Xa oba, an area where the San are still officially allowed to conduct traditional hunts, you can learn how they track or trap spring hares, porcupines and guinea fowl. Tucsin Tsumkwe Lodge (tsumkwe-lodge. com) makes a convenient base; the staff here can arrange Ju/’Hoansiguided bushwalks in Nyae Nyae Conservancy – a chance to see the wilderness through their eyes.

& Zambezi (Caprivi) Regions 6 Kavango

The Zambezi Museum (museums. com.na), a new centre that launched in Katima Mulilo in 2021, focuses on local communities in Namibia’s biodiversity-rich north-east and the environmental issues they face. This region is also home to three Living Museums (lcfn.info). In the village of Singalamwe, near Kongola, Mafwe guides demonstrate how they weave fishing nets and prepare meals, while at Sikondo, beside Samsitu Lake, you can learn about Mbunza blacksmithing and pottery. The newest Living Museum, near Divindu, is run by Khwe San and offers bushwalks and artisan experiences.

Remembering the past (clockwise from top left) The statue of Namibia’s founding President, Sam Nujoma, stands outside the Independence Memorial Museum, having replaced the German-built Reiterdenkmal statue, which had been erected on the birthday of Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1912 – it’s a fitting symbol for a building that seeks to address the trauma of Namibia’s colonial past; the Damara Living Museum helps recover the lost culture of the Damara people, which was all but destroyed by colonialism; the Damara belong to one of the oldest nations in Namibia

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DISCOVER Namibia

WORLD HERITAGE

Colonia del Sacramento

Uruguay’s city on the banks of the Río de la Plata has had a wild history; it’s a story written in the cobbles and buildings of its UNESCO-listed centre, writes Chris Moss

Shining a light on the past (top) The construction of Colonia’s 19th-century lighthouse, built amid the ruins of the Convento de San Francisco, replaced the old chapel tower, which had been used by ships to navigate the Río de la Plata for years until the convent burned down in 1705

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hen thinking about the 19th-century British The colony was hot property and changed hands several times invasions of the Río de la Plata (River Plate; until 1828, when Uruguay gained its independence. 1806–07), Argentines often wonder what it Today, the historic quarter of Colonia – as it’s known would have been like to have been part of the locally – is listed by UNESCO for its well-preserved “fusion British Empire. But they rarely consider the of Portuguese, Spanish and post-colonial” architectural styles. more likely counterfactual: that Brazil Lots of weekenders from Uruguay and might have extended its power southArgentina, and significant numbers “Colonia packs in ward and absorbed its large neighbour from Brazil, come to stroll the narrow into its already considerable vastness. a surprising number cobbled streets of the quaint, tree-lined Uruguay’s Colonia del Sacramento, old centre, which is laid out irregularly of museums for on the left (north-east) bank of the Río (unlike the grids of most Spanish colosuch a little town” nial settlements) on a small peninsula de la Plata, across from Argentina, is an evocative reminder of a time when the that sticks out into the river. Colonia also latter was very possible indeed. Portuguese Brazil, vying for packs in a surprising number of museums for such a little town. territorial and maritime dominion with the Spanish, founded Get your bearings at the Museo Municipal, off the Plaza the original town here, Nova Colônia do Sacramento, in 1660 Mayor, where there’s a scale model of the settlement as it as a military outpost. It was a strategic site, allowing control looked in 1762, as well as a re-creation of a colonial drawing of the river mouth within sight of Buenos Aires as well as room. On either side of the museum are the Casa Nacarello offering additional protection for Brazil’s southern frontier. and Casa del Virrey, the former a colonial-era house with

DISCOVER Uruguay

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NEED TO KNOW

period furniture, the latter the foundations of one. A short walk away is the Espacio Portugués, another old property, housing displays of Portuguese porcelain, furniture and weapons. On the south-west corner of the plaza are vestiges of the 17th-century Convento de San Francisco, within which stands the 19th-century Faro (lighthouse) – probably Colonia’s best known landmark. It’s worth ascending to the top to take in the view; you’ll see how extraordinarily wide the River Plate is and, haze permitting, Buenos Aires on the far shore. On the other main square, the Plaza de Armas, is the Basilica del Santísimo Sacramento, said to be Uruguay’s oldest church. Founded in 1680, it was rebuilt twice under Spanish rule. For a great photo, the reconstructed city gate offers a dramatic setting. From this spot, a fortified wall runs south along the pedestrian-friendly Paseo de San Miguel and down to the river. The Centro Cultural Bastión del Carmen is built around a section of the fortifications. As well as a theatre and gallery spaces, it has riverside lawns around the back, enlivened by outdoor sculptures and an industrial chimney dating

Location: South-western Uruguay, 180km west of capital Montevideo, 50km from Buenos Aires (Argentina). Getting there: There are no direct flights from the UK to Uruguay. Iberia (iberia.com) flies direct to Montevideo from Madrid. British Airways (ba.com) has connecting flights from London Heathrow to Ezeiza International, near Buenos Aires, from around £608 return. From Buenos Aires most people take the fast ferry to Colonia del Sacramento, which takes 75 minutes; from £47. Getting around: The city is small and walkable, though cobblestones make it bumpy going. To explore the region, there are good bus services along the coast. While a tour is useful, Uruguay is one of the easier South American countries to explore independently. A hire car is handy if you want to visit the Pampas or northern beach towns. When to go: Year round, but summer (December–March) can be very hot. Accommodation: Charco is a boutique-style hotel in a colonial building perched on the River Plate and within easy walking distance of the centre. The restaurant is excellent. Doubles from £113pn; charcohotel.com Further information: Uruguay (Bradt Travel Guides; 2017) by Tim Burford

from the 1880s. Uruguayans kick back to enjoy eternal rounds of mate here. If you’re a museum buff, you’ll want to see the Museo del Azulejo on the corner of Misiones de los Tapes and Paseo de San Gabriel, a tiny 17th-century stone house with a collection of French and Catalan tiles. There’s also the Museo Indígena, which showcases a collection of stone tools that belonged to the Charrúa, said to be the first indigenous peoples the Europeans met when exploring the river in the early 16th century, as well as the Museo Paleontológico, which exhibits glyptodon shells and other locally excavated finds from a private collection. Colonia lives up to its name; it still looks and feels like another era. In a part of South America where pre-19th century architecture is rare, that makes it a very special place.

Step back in time (top–bottom) The Basílica del Santísimo Sacramento rises over the old town and its restaurants, where you can try a chivito (steak) sandwich, arguably Uruguay’s “national dish”; the old city gate stands proud

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Uganda Event

WANDERLUST READER EVENTS VERSION REPRO OP

Go wild in Uganda

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Uganda is a country every bit as fascinating as it appears. From spotting chimps and mountain gorillas in their natural environment to bumping down white-water rapids, to watching a traditional dance in a rural village, there are so many travel adventures to be found in this African nation. You’re invited to explore this compelling part of the world during a very special evening of virtual travel.

The event will give you first-hand access to our panel of experts, who will bring to life the huge biodiversity, cultural variety and adventures that you can find in Uganda. You will also have a chance to ask them your burning questions. Expect a thrilling evening filled with the sights and sounds of a country where the travel experiences are as diverse as its unspoilt landscapes.

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20 April 2022, 6:30 PM

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For more information and to book your free place, head over to wanderlustmagazine.com/events

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Revealing rambles (clockwise from this) The Shropshire Hills Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty covers almost a quarter of the county; the world’s first ever iron bridge was erected over the River Severn in 1779; Clun Castle was originally built by William the Conqueror; The Mere at Ellesmere is the largest of all of Shropshire’s meres; historic Shrewsbury is home to more than 800 listed buildings

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4 GREAT WALKS IN THIS MAGNIFICENT PART OF ENGLAND

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rushing the Welsh border, Shropshire is a mosaic of rolling hills, woodland and castle-pocked countryside. Medieval Shrewsbury is a great entry point, before tackling some of the county’s 5,600km of hiking trails. Whether you’re an ambler or a rambler, here are four walks that reveal Shropshire’s culture and nature…

Shropshire and Beyond ; John Hayward; Mike Hayward; Ben Osborne Photography Ltd

STROLL THROUGH HISTORY

The county seat of Shropshire, Shrewsbury’s diminutive size makes it easy for a wander on foot. Don’t be fooled by its small appearance – it still squeezes in nearly 800 listed buildings. A stroll of its historic core will absorb some of its most striking, including the Elizabethan Old Market Hall and many half-timbered houses. Twisting passageways thread between the main streets, with one emerging in front of the medieval St Mary’s Church. Away from Shrewsbury’s time-honoured centre, a tree-lined

pathway hugging the River Severn loops around part of the town and weaves past Shrewsbury School, which Charles Darwin attended.

MEANDER THE MINI LAKE DISTRICT

The second-largest network of wetlands in the UK, northern Shropshire’s cluster of glacial lakes (known as meres) has become unofficially known as the mini Lake District. It’s a watery wonderland you can tread on the 11km Meres Meander walk. Tick off some of its most scenic meres along the route, including the woodland and hay meadow-flanked Colemere and the mirror-like Blakemere, keeping an eye out for wildlife such as dragonflies, kingfishers and goldeneyes. Cut through leafy countryside and end on the shores of The Mere, the largest of north Shropshire’s lakes. Spend some time exploring the historic market town of Ellesmere where you can refuel with a hearty lunch at one of its charming pubs.

For more information, go to: visitshropshire.co.uk

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When the world’s first Iron Bridge was built in the 18th century, it was thought impossible something so big could be built from cast iron. But it’s still standing today and the surrounding UNESCO-protected Ironbridge Gorge is also where the Industrial Revolution spawned. The circular 5.5km Iron Trail knits together the revolution’s legacy and the landscapes in which it was forged. You’ll weave past woodlands and waterways that once powered the Industrial Revolution, industrial era homes and close to the site where a Doric Temple once stood. This folly was built by Ironmaster Richard Reynolds so his workers could admire widescreen views of the gorge during their Sabbath Walks.

GET OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Rewind several centuries and south-west Shropshire was one of England’s most highly coveted patches. Now, there’s rarely a soul around but those wise enough can unravel its ancient legacies on the 10.6km Walking with Offa trail. Begin and end in Clun, a pint-sized village which boasts impressive remains of a Norman Castle. Gently climb the side of the leafy Clun Valley – once King Offa’s stomping ground – before summiting Bury Ditches, one of the country’s best-preserved Iron Age hill forts. Finish in the historic pub The White Horse Inn which has its own micro-brewery. Enjoy a welldeserved post-hike pint and raise a toast to what is bound to be a wonderful British break.

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Visit Shropshire AD

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

BRITISH BREAK MINI GUIDE

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ven in Britain’s earliest literature, Pembrokeshire attracted compliments. The Mabinogi, a collection of medieval folktales compiled in Middle Welsh, proclaimed it “a land of mystery and enchantment”. Centuries on, this remote southwestern corner of Wales continues to beguile with a coastline boasting more Blue Flag beaches than any other Welsh county and the UK’s least populated (and perhaps most magical) city, St Davids. It is also home to Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, which celebrates its 70th anniversary this year with an array of enticing days out. It’s very much in keeping with a theme. While COVID-19 may have deterred visitors these past two years, it hasn’t stopped Pembrokeshire gearing up to welcome them back. Along with the revamped waterfront at Milford Haven, there are newly expanded activity centres around Martletwy (Wild Lake Wales) and at Llys-y-Frân Lake, as well as a slew of innovative new restaurants, including Annwn (annwnrestaurant.co.uk), which serves up seasonal fine dining in a converted potting shed near Cleddau Woodlands.

Pembrokeshire is lapped by the sea on three sides. On my visit, I not only relished fine coastal vistas but picture-postcard resorts such as Tenby. I also made time to explore some lesser-known delights. In the small, hilly town of Narberth, where colourful buildings cluster around a war memorial, I stumbled on a hoard of independent shops ranging from antique bazaars to family jewellers. The town’s abundance of cafés, restaurants and delis crammed with curated goodies – check out Ultracomida – revealed an impressive gastronomic underbelly. It’s little surprise it’s twinned with Ludlow, the “Food Town”across the English border in Shropshire. I also travelled to the Preseli Mountains, whose slopes are dotted with reminders of its past, from the Neolithic burial chamber of Pentre Ifan to Castell Henllys Iron Age village. And at Carew Millpond, where egrets waded in the castle’s reflection and martins flitted around the Tidal Mill, I pondered how Pembrokeshire’s history – of Christian pilgrims and Viking invasions, Celtic warriors and Tudor Kings – is as dramatic as its legendary landscapes. A place of mystery and enchantment indeed. ⊲

Ask a local

“Take the circular Abermawr Walk through ancient National Trust woodland to a wild and remote beach with extraordinary wildlife on its shores. Next, cross to Aberbach beach and follow the trail up the valley to Melin Tregwynt, a white-washed woollen mill with restored water wheel that has been weaving iconic patterned blankets from Welsh sheep’s wool since the 17th century and has been run by the same family for over 100 years.” Sophie Hurst, director at Preseli Venture

Alamy; Vicky Smith; preseliventure.co.uk

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As the Welsh county’s coastal national park hits 70, Vicky Smith finds plenty to celebrate while wandering serene sandy shores and visiting resort towns filled with good food… and ideas

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Alamy; Vicky Smith; preseliventure.co.uk

If walls could speak… (clockwise from this) The 100-step climb to the top of Pembroke Castle is worth it for views over the town; at the centre of Narberth lies its 19th-century lock-up, known locally as “Rebecca’s Cell”; the recreated Iron Age village of Castell Henllys; Pembroke is one of the oldest towns in Wales, dating back to the Norman conquest of 1093; Carew Castle was at the centre of Norman rule in South Pembrokeshire

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British Break Pembrokeshire 220, 1

DISCOVER England

British Break Pembrokeshire 220, 2

BRITISH BREAK MINI GUIDE VERSION SUBS

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Spend the morning in St Davids, the city with the smallest population in the UK, whose crowning glory is its cathedral (stdavidscathedral.org.uk). A site of worship since the 6th century, it nestles in a scenic hollow near the country’s most westerly point; this was also where St David, patron saint of Wales, was buried. Next, visit Oriel y Parc Gallery, where you’ll find art displays from Wales’ national collection alongside a helpful visitor centre (01437 720392), before pottering around some of the many independent treasures in this small, charming city. Have lunch at The Really Wild Emporium (thereallywildemporium. co.uk), which serves foraged meals in a restored Art Deco building; or if you’re feeling adventurous, try innovative insect-based cuisine at Grub Kitchen (grubkitchen.co.uk). In the afternoon, take a trip to the Preseli Mountains, a medley of heath and moorland studded with quirky landmarks, such as the communityowned Tafarn Sinc pub and its old railway line (pictured), as well as prehistoric sites like the Iron Age roundhouses of Castell Henllys (visitpembrokeshire.com). Stop at Newport or Fishguard, both picturesque coastal towns with an indie vibe, then round off the day with hearty fare at The Sloop Inn (sloop.co.uk), a cosy pub between Fishguard and St Davids.

DAY 2

Now it’s time to explore central and south Pembrokeshire. Start with popular seaside resort Tenby, whose lively harbour (pictured), cobbled streets, medieval town walls and brightly painted clifftop houses, perched above sandy beaches, make it a tourist honeypot, so get there early, before the crowds. Just along the coast, Saundersfoot is another jewel worth checking out. Next, head inland to Pembroke, a walled town whose mighty castle (pembrokecastle.co.uk) dates to 1093 and was the birthplace of Henry VII. Grab lunch at the onsite cafe before enjoying the nearby waterside walk, or strolling into town and browsing the many local shops and galleries. Pop into the Grade II-listed Georgian Town Hall, which hosts an eclectic museum and a series of superb murals depicting Pembroke’s eventful past (pembrokemuseum.wales). Afterwards, make a detour to Daugleddau Estuary (dubbed “Pembrokeshire’s hidden waterway”), which is a haven for wading birds and includes sights such as Carew Castle and Tidal Mill (pembrokeshirecoast.wales). Finally, stop off in Narberth, celebrated for its diverse shopping scene and dining delights. A meal at Madtom (madtomseafood.com) or food hall Hwb (hwbnarberth.com) is a fitting end to any visit.

Getting there: Key train stations include Haverfordwest and Pembroke, with trains from outside Wales often connecting in Swansea or Cardiff. Various buses (often with names like Puffin Shuttle and Poppit Rocket) traverse the National Park coastline, though some may find exploring easier by car. See visitpembrokeshire.com. Stay at: Twr y Felin (twryfelinhotel.com; pictured), a former windmill with a claim to be Wales’ “first contemporary art hotel”, offers an AA-award-winning stay in St Davids and is home to a well-regarded restaurant, Blas. Expanded last year, it features 41 rooms (B&B doubles from £195pn) and over 100 pieces of commissioned art. Alternatively, Solva-based Quality Cottages lists a wide range of stays across the county and has increased its portfolio to include more family- and dog-friendly options (qualitycottages.co.uk; from £448 per week).

HIKE the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. This glorious 300km trail ranges from secluded coves and pastel ports to over 50 beaches and 40 Iron Age forts. You don’t have to tackle it all at once; the official website (pembrokeshirecoast.wales) has a wealth of suggested itineraries, taking in relaxing strolls alongside more challenging stretches. SAIL to an island. Another highlight of the county’s coast is its islands, which promise the same fusion of ancient history and soulstirring scenery as their mainland counterpart. Many are now nature reserves, with residents such as endearing puffins and grey seal pups. ENCOUNTER

more wildlife. Whether meandering down the River Teifi in a Canadian dug-out canoe with Top of the Woods (topofthewoods. co.uk), spotting red deer and peregrine falcons as you go, or looking out for kingfishers and otters at the Welsh Wildlife Centre (welshwildlife. org), don’t miss the chance to meet critters inland, too.

DISCOVER why this is a sustainable gourmet hotspot. Experiences span from tours at Velfrey Vineyard (velfreyvineyard.com) to coastal foraging with Craig Evans (coastalforaging. co.uk). Producers Atlantic Edge Oysters even farm their own shellfish, while initiatives like the Peninsula Producers Food Hub (openfoodnetwork.org.uk) spotlight regional purveyors.

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Sucre, Bolivia

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From its whitewashed centre, nestled beneath a sea of orange tiles, to fairytale castles and miniature monuments – Bolivia’s original capital is a feast for the eyes and senses Words Shafik Meghji

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Good things come… (left) Sucre’s 16th-century cathedral towers over the low-slung colonial buildings of downtown, mixing Renaissance-style architecture with Baroque additions that were added across the 150 years it took to finish; (top) the Fiesta de la Virgen de Guadalupe sees traditional dances and a huge mass take place in the main square

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edged into a highland valley just east of the altiplano – the Andean plateau stretching across western Bolivia – Sucre is one of the most beautiful cities in South America and a place that confounds expectations. Set at an altitude of 2,810m, it was established in the mid-1500s by Spanish conquistadors on the lands of the indigenous Yampara people and has since been known as Charcas, Chuquisaca, Ciudad de la Plata (City of Silver) and finally Sucre, rightfully earning it the title “The City with Four Names”. Sucre’s initial success was down to silver. As well as exploiting deposits in the area, it became an administrative hub for the larger reserves in Potosí, 160km to the south, and a centre of Spanish colonial power. Wealth flowed into the city, funding the construction of the grand buildings that would later see it designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After playing a key role in the struggle for independence from Spanish rule, Sucre became the capital of the new Republic of Bolivia in 1825, but political and economic influence gradually drained away. In 1899, following a brief civil war, the presidency, congress and de facto capital status moved north-west to La Paz, though Sucre was allowed to retain the title of constitutional capital.

Today, it has a population of about 360,000, and while the drivers of political, economic and social life lie elsewhere, it has retained a cultured, middleclass air with its tidy streets and relaxed pace of life. Downtown is a treasure trove of well-preserved 16th- to 19th-century architecture laid out on an orderly grid system. The expansive Plaza 25 de Mayo lies in the centre, surrounded by a Mestizo-Baroque cathedral, Neoclassical town hall and elegant former presidential palace. Surrounding streets are lined with similarly impressive churches, chapels, monasteries, townhouses and university buildings, their brilliant white adobe walls and red-tiled roofs gleaming in the sunshine.This heritage is taken seriously: historic buildings must be whitewashed each year – a uniformity of colour that has given rise to yet other nickname, the “Ciudad Blanca” (White City) – and modern constructions are resolutely confined to the outskirts. This wealth of history and architectural splendour could easily have turned Sucre into a museum piece, yet the city has a young, cosmopolitan feel thanks to the crowds of students at its universities and a steady stream of gringos. Numerous historic buildings have been turned into boutique stays and hostels. There is also a proliferation of Spanish-language schools aimed at backpackers, and ⊲

19.0353° S, 65.2592° W

NEED TO KNOW International dialling code: +591 Currency: The boliviano (BOB), currently around BOB11 to the UK£. ATMs and casas de cambio (currency exchanges) are commonly found in downtown Sucre. Getting there: There are no direct flights between the UK and Bolivia’s two main international airports, El Alto and Santa Cruz, but there are connections via Madrid, the US and neighbouring countries. Sucre’s modern airport is served by plenty of domestic flights; its longdistance bus station has services to towns as well as cities across Bolivia, and shared-taxis run regularly to and from Potosí. Getting around: The historic centre and the Recoleta district are easy to explore on foot, but you will need to take a taxi to the airport, Castillo de la Glorieta and Parque Cretácico Cal Orck’o. Dedicated buses also run to the latter from the main square in town. Festivals: One of the city’s most important annual celebrations is the Fiesta de la Virgen de Guadalupe, which takes place in early September and features music, dancing, parades and feasting dedicated to Sucre’s patron saint.

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Culture, dinosaurs and fairy tales (clockwise from top left) A local woman parades at the city carnival in Plaza 25 de Mayo; walking the historic centre reveals whitewashed facades that the city maintains by pushing development to the outskirts; Sucre is a busy market centre for the Quechua-speaking indigenous peoples of the surrounding mountains, whose artistry can be seen at the Museo de Arte Indigena; this otherwise unedifying wall is actually filled with dinosaur footprints; the Castillo de la Glorieta is a whimsical confabulation of well-known landmarks and wild imagination; the Chuquisaca Government Palace was the country’s original presidential building

many European migrants have set up travel agencies, restaurants, bars, galleries and other ventures. This has helped to create a thriving eating, drinking and cultural scene. Beyond the historic centre, Sucre breaks out from its monochrome appearance with a pair of colourful architectural curiosities. In a park near the Supreme Court sits the Torre Eiffel, which was installed in the early 20th century. It is a miniature take on the Parisian original and was designed by Gustave Eiffel himself. Around 12m in height, it has a spiral staircase leading up to a viewing platform and – on my last visit – a thick coat of pumpkin-orange paint. South of downtown is a more outlandish construction, the coral-pink Castillo de la Glorieta. Built in the late 19th century, this kitsch castle was a vanity project for mining tycoon, banker and diplomat Francisco Argandoña Revilla and his wife Clotilde. It features a trio of towers: a replica of London’s Elizabeth Tower, home of Big Ben; the Russian-Byzantine-style Prince’s Tower, topped with a turquoise onion dome; and the octagonal Princess Tower, complete with keyhole-shaped windows.Visiting the castillo feels like stepping into a Hollywood take on The Arabian Nights. Yet there’s more to Sucre than its history and architecture. A steep 20-minute hike uphill from the main square takes you to the Recoleta district, home of a 17th-century Franciscan monastery, a mirador offering panoramic views over town and, most significantly, the illuminating Museo de Arte Indí-

gena. Run by an NGO named ASUR, the museum supports and showcases the traditional textiles of the indigenous Jalq’a and Tarabuco peoples, who live in the surrounding region.The exhibits are exquisite: multicoloured ponchos, shawls, tapestries and chuspas (small bags for carrying coca leaves). The Tarabuco creations feature bright scenes from everyday life, including farm work, religious rituals and festivals, while the Jalq’a designs have darker shades and supernatural imagery, such as gods and demons. Arguably Sucre’s most dramatic attraction lies a short drive to the north, to a cement works on the city’s outskirts where a towering grey-white cliff rises out of a large quarry as heavily-laden trucks chug by. Here you’ll find Parque Cretácico Cal Orck’o, which – beyond its menagerie of model dinosaurs – has a viewing platform facing the cliff. At first glance the wall appears nondescript, but as you slowly focus, you’ll be able to see that the myriad indentations covering the surface are actually dinosaur footprints. In total, the cliff has over 12,000 individual tracks from as many as 15 different species of dinosaur from the late Cretaceous period (68–65 million years ago), making it the largest and most diverse collection of its kind in the world. Guided tours take you down into the quarry and provide a close-up view of giant Titanosaur and Tyrannosaurus rex footprints – a mesmerising experience and a reminder that Sucre’s history stretches back at lot further than you might expect.

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Stay here... Budget Kultur Berlin Set in a historic building close to the action, this is a welcoming, German-run hostel with a wide range of clean dorms and private rooms. It also has a peaceful garden, economical cafebar-club, in-house Spanishlanguage school and an array of activities, from dance classes to cultural nights. Doubles from £22pn; kulturberlin.com

Mid-range Hotel Boutique Mi Pueblo Samary A short walk from the Plaza 25 de Mayo, this renovated 18th-century mansion has spacious rooms set around a flower-filled patio. There’s also a fine restaurant and a chichería, a rustic bar serving traditional Andean beer made from fermented corn. Doubles from £48pn; samaryhotel.com

Best address in town Parador Santa María La Real A restored 18th-century townhouse in central Sucre. This five-star stay has elegant rooms filled with period details and modern comforts. The cellars have been turned into an atmospheric restaurant, while the tranquil rooftop garden offers views across the city. Doubles from £70pn; parador.com.bo

4 TOP THINGS TO SEE Visit… Sucre is

a good base for visiting the town of Tarabuco, a textile-producing centre 60km to the south-east that is famous for its Sunday market, which draws people from far and wide.

Learn… There

are several interesting museums and galleries in Sucre, including the Casa de la Libertad, where the Bolivian Act of Independence was signed in 1825, and the Museo Universitario Charcas, which is home to a wealth of anthropological, historical and artistic exhibits.

Shop…

After visiting the Museo de Arte Indígena, head to the in-house shop, which stocks a selection of beautiful textiles and ceramics made by local Jalq’a and Tarabuco artisans.

Eat… Sucre is

renowned for its salteñas – delicious pasties stuffed with meat, cheese or vegetables – and the best are served at El Patio, a bougainvilleaclad courtyard cafe near the main plaza. The city is also known for spicy sausages called chorizos chuquisaqueño, as well as its chocolate shops.

WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Book: Crossed off the Map: Travels in Bolivia The final chapter of Shafik Meghji’s new book explores Sucre’s intriguing history, right up to the present day. YouTube: youtube.com/watch?v=qQy-_lLw4lI See highlights from one of Espacio Cultural Orígenes folk music and dance shows, which often take place in Sucre. Instagram: @soysucre.info The account of a multilingual travel website run by Sucre aficionados and packed with useful info about the city.

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lassical music titans, trend-setting painters, design innovators and a religious revolutionary. Over the centuries, Thuringia has been home to stars in the pageant of world history. And yet it is no museum. Wherever you go, the past is part of the present, from cobbled streets and half-timbered houses to forbidding fortresses and cosy pubs. Thuringia is one of Germany’s smallest federal states, so all the major sights are within easy reach of one another while the main towns are compact and easy to explore on foot – perfect for a short break. Although Weimar lent its name to the 1930s Weimar Republic, its 12 UNESCO-listed sites are the main draw today. Erfurt, the state capital, has a medieval quarter that is a ready-made film set. Eisenach may be small, but on the outskirts is Wartburg Castle; set high on a crag, it has dominated the countryside since the 11th century. Gotha boasts a 17th-century palace and the treasure-filled Ducal Museum. And, on the far western border of the state, poignant reminders of the Cold War still loom large in the memories of locals. Germans love nothing more than communing with Mother Nature and Thuringia has plenty

of it. Think mysterious mountains, rolling hills, lush valleys, ancient woodland and fertile farmland. With one third of the state covered in forest, Thuringia deserves its ‘Green Heart of Germany’ nickname. Some of the hundreds of miles of hiking trails have been byways for centuries; more modern, but equally well-maintained, are clearly-signposted cycle trails. But wherever you go in what is the geographic centre of Germany, be prepared for surprises. Did you know that the first glass Christmas tree ornaments were made here? Or that Thuringia is the home of the gnome – the garden variety? These traditional skills still thrive alongside other crafts and jolly festivals. As always, however, people make places. Talk to locals about their favourite brews and comfort foods, such as klösse potato dumplings. Move on to their love of music and their memories of the GDR and the Cold War. And don’t leave Thuringia without munching Germany’s tastiest sausage. With a 600-year-old recipe of minced pork and beef, spiced with caraway and marjoram, a Thüringer Bratwurst is best enjoyed from a market stall, hot off the charcoal grill, slathered with mustard.

Ask a local

“Gardening is a way of life here. If I have to pick three mustsees in Thuringia I would start with Erfurt’s egapark, one of Germany’s largest gardens. I enjoy spending time in the sculpture garden, especially when the peonies are in bloom: a feast for the eyes and the soul. I also love the orangery at the Schloss Belvedere in Weimar. But strolling through the historic gardens and flower beds surrounding Altenstein Palace, near Eisenach, is extra special.” Kathrin Weiss, managing director of Erfurt’s egapark

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Dense with both UNESCO-listed heritage and extensive forests, compact Thuringia is easily explorable. Paul Wade discovers a small state full of history, culture and nature

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Thuringia perspectives (clockwise from this) The view from the tower of the 1472 St Aegidius Church towards Erfurt’s old town; the Bauhaus Museum at Weimar; the Belvedere Palace, Weimar; Wartburg Castle, near Eisenach

THURINGIA IN FIVE DAYS Day 1: Weimar

Start with the new Bauhaus Museum in the birthplace of this world-famous design movement. On student-led tours of the university, see where architect Walter Gropius, artist Paul Klee and others key members of the movement taught. Prefer literature? Then wander around the sumptuous Duchess Anna Amalia Library, the Goethe National Museum and the house where Johann Wolfgang von Goethe lived for 50 years. www.weimar.de/en/tourism/

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Day 2: Erfurt

Walk through Domplatz square, dominated by St Mary’s Cathedral and St Severus Church; stroll across the 14th-century Merchants’ Bridge, still lined with houses and shops, to St Augustine’s Monastery,

which looks much as it did in 1505, when Luther joined as a monk. Visit the thoughtprovoking Memorial and Education Centre Andreasstrasse in a prison once run by the Stasi, East Germany’s feared secret police. www.erfurt-tourismus.de/en/

Day 3: Crafts, rails & royals

Drive south through countryside to the Schwarzatal Valley, where railway enthusiasts can ride the historic mountain railroad and funicular. For special souvenirs, stop in Lauscha, where they still hand-blow glass Christmas ornaments, and Gräfenroda, for its garden gnomes. Circle north to Gotha, home to Friedenstein Palace and Lucas Cranach, the first Reformation painter. www.thueringen-entdecken.de

Day 4: Eisenach

Excellent museums commemorate Luther and Bach. In Bach’s House, historic keyboard instruments are played every hour. Catch free organ concerts at St George’s Church, where Luther preached and Bach was baptised (summer, daily, 11am). In Wartburg Castle, enter the cell where Luther translated the New Testament while on the run 500 years ago. The castle’s Hall of the Minstrels inspired Wagner to write the opera, Tannhäuser. www.eisenach.info/en/home

Day 5: Point Alpha, Geisa

Although the Iron Curtain lifted in 1989, you can still see watchtowers, fences and tanks. In the museum, learn why generals thought World War III might start right here. www.pointalpha.com/en/

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International dialling code: +49 Currency: Euro (€). Currently, around 1.15 € to the UK£ Getting there: British Airways and Lufthansa fly regularly from the UK to Berlin and Frankfurt (2hrs; from £100). Thuringia is then a three-hour drive; fly into one and back from the other. Ryanair also flies to Dresden, two hour’s drive from Weimar. Getting around: Fly-drive is a great way to explore. Berlin, Frankfurt and Dresden feature all the major car rental companies. Or take the efficient Deutsch Bahn rail service (www.bahn.com/ en) from Berlin, Frankfurt or Dresden; continue on local trains and buses. Weather: Warm, rather than hot, May to September is the best time to visit. In winter, expect snow: perfect for traditional Christmas markets. Cycling: Pedal the easy Towns of Thuringia Cycle Route, linking Eisenach, Gotha, Erfurt, Weimar, Jena, Gera and Altenburg. www.thueringerstaedtekette.de Further information: visit-thuringia.com. The Weimar and Erfurt tourist offices offer Englishlanguage multimedia selfguided tours via apps or iGuides.

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Sunset over St Severus Erfurt’s other iconic landmark, the five-naved early Gothic Church of St Severus, was a collegiate church for the regular canons of St Augustine during the 12th century; (below) the Haus am Horn in Weimar

Don’t miss... Outdoors Hainich National Park Spend a day hiking, biking or horse-riding in one of Europe’s most ancient beech forests. Explore the 120km network of hiking and cycling trails that wind through what is still 90% wilderness. A canopy walk offers wide-ranging views; you can even do yoga at treetop level. Below, the forest floor is home to rare lynx, wild cats and wolves. www.nationalpark-hainich.de Feininger Cycle Trail Rent a bike from the Weimar tourist Information centre and pedal this 30km loop along country lanes, where Bauhaus professor Lyonel Feininger loved to ride his bike. The route links villages, an art gallery in Gelmeroda and churches with the distinctive spires that inspired the artist’s sketches and paintings. www.weimar.de The Rennsteig Hiking Trail Waymarked with a white ‘R’, Germany’s bestknown hiking trail runs for 170km through the Thuringian Forest. This ridge path once marked the border between Thuringia and Franconia. Pause to photograph vistas, stop at village inns, explore Lauscha’s glass museum and hail fellow hikers with the traditional greeting: “Gut runst!” www.thueringen-entdecken.de

Indoors Haus Am Horn, Weimar The first house built using Bauhaus design principles was the box-like Haus Am Horn. With its small rooms and high windows, it feels cramped today; when it opened in 1923 as a show house, it was revolutionary. For workingclass families, this was a dream house, with its gas stove, washing machine, built-in cupboards, central heating and running hot water. www.klassik-stiftung.de Weimar Painter Lucas Cranach was great friends with Martin Luther. The power of his art is exemplified by the triptych in the Church of St Peter and St Paul. Considered by some to be ‘the first Protestant religious painting’, it depicts the crucifixion, with Luther among the faithful, holding an open Bible. www.weimar.de Old Synagogue, Erfurt Now carefully-restored, the medieval Old Synagogue and its treasures were unearthed during archaeological excavations in the 1980s. In the museum are 13th- and 14th-century gold ornaments and coins galore, including an extremely rare and ornate ceremonial wedding ring. www.erfurt-tourismus.de

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Stay here... Weimar Hotel Elephant Weimar The 300-year-old landmark has 99 luxurious rooms; the stylish Restaurant AnnA serves locally sourced trout and game. www.hotelelephantweimar.com

Gotha Augustinerkloster Time travel in the 800-year-old Augustinian monastery. Hostel rooms are plain but comfy and you can get breakfast in the monastery café. www.augustinerkloster-gotha.de

Weimar The Alt Weimar Sleep in affordable rooms with Bauhaus furnishings, close to the centre of the city; meet the friendly locals in Andreas Scholz’s wood-panelled restaurant. www.alt-weimar.de/en/

Eisenach Vienna House Thüringer Hof Eisenach This grand 126-room hotel has chandeliers and antiques; the Restaurant Leander balances modern European with traditional Thuringian dishes. www.viennahouse.com

Erfurt Hotel Krämerbrücke Erfurt Book rooms in the 15th-century Red Tower on the medieval bridge; the menu at its 700-yearold Alter Schwan restaurant includes pork, dumplings and red cabbage. www.hotel-kraemerbruecke.de

Wartburg Romantik Hotel at the Wartburg Next to Wartburg Castle, this neo-Gothic hotel has 37 romantic rooms. Chef Annett Reinhardt’s imaginative menus complement the sweeping views. wartburghotel.de/en/

4 TOP THINGS TO DO Buy presents and

enjoy a drop of mulled wine at the Christmas markets. In Erfurt, 200 booths cover Domplatz square. Think locally crafted toys, jewellery, decorations and Stollen, a cake rich with fruit, nuts and marzipan. Wartburg Castle’s medieval market features woodcarvers, candle makers, musicians, jugglers and more. weihnachtsmarkt.erfurt.de

Listen to music by local hero JS Bach, whose works are performed across Thuringia. During the annual Thuringian Bach Weeks at Easter, concerts are held in churches with Bachconnections in towns like Eisenach, Dornheim, Mühlhausen, Arnstadt and Weimar. www.thueringerbachwochen.de Steel yourself to visit

Buchenwald, one of the first Nazi concentration camps to be liberated. Permanent exhibitions detail the horror. Take your time; it is a sobering experience. www.buchenwald.de

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Thuringian walkways (this page, clockwise from this) The Rennsteig hiking trail started out as a border and trade route in the Middle Ages; half-timbered houses line Erfurt’s cathedral square; the treetop walkway in the Hainich NP; Ducal Museum in Gotha

Let your hair down

at traditional festivals. Sommergewinn marks the arrival of spring in Eisenach; cheer as ‘Frau Sunna’ bests and banishes ‘Herr Winter’. In June, Erfurt goes medieval during the Merchants’ Bridge Festival: sword fights, minstrels and demonstrations of age-old crafts. In Weimar, October’s Zwiebelmarkt, Onion Market, dates back to 1635: eat onion cakes, drink onion soup and buy onion wreaths.

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Sometimes one look can tell you a city’s story.The view from Guanajuato’s Monumento al Pípila reveals every Baroque and Neoclassical excess the 18th-century silver boom bestowed on its centre.The yellow and orange of the Basílica Colegiata de Nuestra Señora de Guanajuato (centre), remod-

elled by the silver barons, ripples across town – fitting for a building at the heart of life here and home to a revered statue of the city’s patron. Behind it, the faded Churrigueresque facade of La Compañía church, the Jesuits’ last hurrah before their eviction, aptly stands apart. It’s history in a gaze.

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A sterling sight, Guanajuato, Mexico

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