Wanderlust, issue 226 (April/May 2023)

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30 Years Of Taking The Road Less Travelled

Travel The

List

Meet the world’s sustainable-travel champions

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Immerse yourself in

COSTA RICA

Cycling Istria Empires in Algeria Kenya’s black panthers Invigorating Paraguay New Orleans hideaways Photo of the Year Le Corbusier’s Chandigarh Canary Islands

TRAVEL PHOTO OF THE YEAR As ever, the quality of your entries has been exceptional. Having pored over thousands of images for this year’s edition of the UK’s largest amateur travel photography competition, our judges have finally whittled down this year’s finalists and winners…

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TRAVEL PHOTO OF THE YEAR

TRAVEL ICONS

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TRAVEL PHOTO OF THE YEAR

WILDLIFE

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TRAVEL PHOTO OF THE YEAR

LANDSCAPE

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TRAVEL PHOTO OF THE YEAR

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DESERT DREAMING IN

JORDAN T H E

W O N D E R

O F

W A D I

R U M

Words Yulia Denisyuk

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esheer Zawaideh motions me to step into the shade of a black goat-hair-woven tent and I can barely contain my excitement. Sitting down on the layered floor – Bedouin carpet strewn over a piece of tarp that covers the red sand – I negotiate my unyielding hips and knees into a cross-legged position as best as I can while Zawaideh gathers the rest of the guests around a steaming platter. It contains mansaf, a legendary dish of rice and meat smothered in a tangy sauce derived from a type of fermented yogurt called jameed. I’ve

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had my share of mansaf throughout my years of travelling in Jordan (the best is rumoured to come from the central Jordanian region of Karak). Something tells me this desert version is one that I won’t soon forget. I am not wrong.

Horizon highlights (this page; top– bottom) With its 740 sq km of protected terrain, there is a reason why the alienlooking Wadi Rum has provided the backdrop for films such as The Martian; a lack of light pollution means the Milky Way shines brightly above Wadi Rum

On this visit – my fifth time in the deserts of southern Jordan – I get the chance to visit a Bedouin family dividing their time between the village of Disah and their true home: the Mars-red sands of Wadi Rum. This Protected Area, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2011, is actually an ancient seafloor spread across 740 sq km of red, white and yellow sand dunes as well as granite and limestone mountains. The Bedouin community, who live in and around this area, mostly make their living from tourism; and today, they’ve opened their doors to welcome us.

Kimberley Coole; Shutterstock

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

Zawaideh’s wife, Umm Omar, observes me as I scoop up a ball of rice and chicken bits with my hand and drink the fragrant jameed sauce that she poured into my cup barely a minute earlier. She nods, eyes smiling: “You’ve had this before.”

“Never this zaki [tasty],” I answer and our group erupts in laughter. I’ve yet to find a tastier meal in Jordan.

I’m not the only traveller enamoured with Wadi Rum. In the last few decades, since the government put in place plans to develop local tourism infrastructure and the desert area got its UNESCO inscription, the number of visitors to the site has

steadily grown. Many come for the thrill of outdoor adventures: 4WD Jeep tours across vast swathes of arid land; hot air balloon rides with bird’s-eye views of the fantastically shaped gorges, cliffs and arches that have been sculpted over millennia by the wind and sand; and multiday wilderness hikes on camelback towards Jabal Umm ad-Dami, Jordan’s highest peak at 1,854m.

Others travel to Wadi Rum for its heritage. TE Lawrence famously made the area his base during the Arab Revolt (1916–1918); now visitors come to narrow Siq Umm al-Tawaqi canyon to see a carving

Warm welcome (this page; bottom right) The Bedouin community living in and around Wadi Rum make most of their money from tourism and can provide guests with an authentic and memorable experience of the desert on overnight camping trips with meals in the desert and fireside storytelling

of Lawrence’s bust and visit a cave where he allegedly hid from the Ottoman forces. Dig deeper, though, and you’ll find traces of even earlier stories. The mysterious Nabataean civilisation once marked its presence

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WANDERSLEEPS

Soulful sleeps in New Orleans

Savour the spirit of NOLA with stays that conjure the city’s historical roots, jazz soul and community spirit Reviewed by Tami Fairweather

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JOURNAL New Orleans, USA

OMNI ROYAL ORLEANS The history of this French Quarter grande dame echoes that of the city, including its dark days. The building has served as everything from a centre of commerce for the exchange of land and enslaved peoples to a Civil War-era hospital, though in better times it hosted some of the first Mardi Gras balls. For much of the early 20th century it flirted with ruin, before decades-long efforts to preserve it paid off in 1960 when it reopened as the Royal Orleans – Led Zeppelin even named a song after it. Today, it is the only hotel with balconies overlooking Royal Street, while its Rib Room conjures the party days of old with a jazz brunch on weekends. A ‘Say Goodnight to Hunger’ programme also donates food to local shelters for every stay completed. Rooms from around £170 per night, excluding breakfast; omnihotels.com

Omni Royal New Orleans; Mark O’Tyson; Melrose Mansion

MELROSE MANSION You’d be hard-pressed to find a better location for a boutique-chic stay with access to a deep pool than this elegant spot on the edge of the French Quarter. Whether you opt for a room in the main house or one of the studio apartments out back, it is perfectly placed, just a short stroll to the live-music mecca of Frenchmen Street, which might account for its rather colourful 20th-century history. In the first half of the 1900s, after ‘Storyville’ (the city’s red-light district) was shut down, it operated as a discreet brothel; it was later home to the ‘Boom Boom Girls’, the backup dancers for the late, great burlesque performer (and former owner) Chris Owens. Nowadays, manager Caleb offers a more wholesome kind of hospitality, with a glass of wine on check-in and plenty of tips for the perfect stay. Rooms from around £140 per night, excluding breakfast; melrosemansion.com ⊲

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DISPATCHES

A chance too good to miss

In the acacia woodland of Kenya’s Laikipia Wilderness Camp stirs some of the rarest wildlife in Africa – and the encounter of a lifetime Words Kate Humble Photographs Paul Joynson-Hicks

JOURNAL Kenya

DISPATCHES

The Land Without Evil Paraguay has endured hard times over the centuries, yet the ruins of its Jesuit missions recall the days when its Indigenous people found a strange kind of paradise Words & photographs George Kipouros

JOURNAL Paraguay

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Empires of the

DUNES

Algeria’s litany of invaders have shaped a land where echoes of history’s greatest empires still catch in the desert winds; but visitors today will also discover a country finding its own voice Words & photographs Mark Stratton

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Unexpected histories After a chance find made when digging the metro line in Algiers, it was recently discovered that the city’s Martyrs’ Square, in the lower kasbah, dates back to the Phoenician era. Its more recent history is what gave it its name, however, recalling when 4,000 people were killed while protesting the 1832 conversion of the Ketchaoua mosque into a cathedral; (previous spread) the oasis of Taghit sits on the edge of the Grand Erg Occidental, a vast field of dunes that receives less than 50mm of rain every year

Previous spread: Alamy; this spread: Alamy

t the museum in Djémila I spied a sublime sight. It was a Roman mosaic depicting the licentiousness of the god Bacchus: murder, sacrifice, orgy and wine. It was quite the show. It also caused me to ponder something that, up until then, I hadn’t thought about: how might modern Algeria be represented in tesserae? After some deliberation I decided that, regardless of what was depicted, it would be an utterly mercurial sight.

After all, so little is known about Africa’s largest country.

I started conjuring the Algeria mosaic in my head, piecing together bits of classical civilisations, oases bearing the sweetest dates, Mediterranean sunshine and scorching sands migrating wispily across Saharan dunes like transient djinns. It would be a bit frayed at the edges, representing the turbulent decades that saw this North African behemoth firmly off travellers’ itineraries. But Algeria has changed in recent years.With security vastly improved, its mosaic of historical and cultural wonders is once again reachable – and barely a three-hour flight from London. It is something that a new vanguard of visitors will be eager to explore, even if procuring a visa is tricky, thanks to the Socialist siege mentality of the ruling regime making it tough for those not travelling as part of an organised tour.

“Algerians are a mixture of many peoples,” said M’hamed Gueraini, a gentle giant of a guide, upon meeting our small group at Algiers airport. “We’re more Berber and Arabic than French, Roman or Ottoman, but overall, we’re unique.”

That cultural mix quickly materialised on the drive into capital Algiers. M’hamed delivered a potted summary of 3,000 years of history as the city’s denim-blue Mediterranean coastline drew near, beginning his tale in 800 BC. This was when the Phoenicians were trading with Carthage (Tunisia), he said, before Rome conquered all. In turn, the Romans were swept aside by Berber-Arab dynasties, who ushered in Islam. He scarcely need mention later occupations: downtown Algiers revealed lustrous domes dating back to Ottoman rule, while the French colonisation of 1830 was apparent in housing blocks of Neoclassical finery.

Algiers is a city of hills and café culture. Every morning, I walked from my hotel in Telemly district to grab a black coffee and a croissant, conjuring memories of Marseilles: the déshabillé architecture, the horn-blaring traffic and the busy seafront marinas all felt oddly familiar. Yet Algiers’ apogee is found in Martyrs’ Square and its kasbah. Here the Mediterranean sunshine cast shadows from the surrounding minarets and Art Deco architecture onto the city’s main plaza, which was lively in the bustle around the Friday prayer. Families browsed stalls of hanging Deglet-nour dates, Berber costumes and tagine dishes as their children excitedly chased pigeons. But it wasn’t always like this.

“In 1832, the French massacred nearly 4,000 people who were defending the kasbah’s Ketchaoua mosque from being converted into a cathedral,” said M’hamed. In his words I could almost hear the gunfire entering the kasbah, as if the higgledy-piggledy narrow lanes trapped an inescapable palimpsest of history within its labyrinth.

The kasbah was once called Icosium, a Phoenician port that acquired its current guise as a walled medina around the mid-10th century AD, under the founder of the Berber Zirid dynasty which went on to rule parts of the North African Maghreb. Elsewhere, I had seen medinas so ⊲

ALGERIA

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ALGERIA

THE ROMANCE OF THE ROAD

3 revealing road trips through the USA

CANYONLANDS & NATIONAL PARKS OF AMERICA’S WEST Days: 12 Why go? Leave the driving to the experts on this luxury escorted tour, cruising four US states.

What to expect: There’s no need to worry about missing the view from behind the wheel on this trip. In fact, as you sit back on an air-conditioned coach or sink into the sumptuous seats of the Rocky Mountaineer train,

your guide will be on hand to show you the highlights.

Your journey begins in Denver, home to the storied Larimer Square and Colorado’s State Capitol. From there you’ll visit the Red Rocks Amphitheatre, a historic open-air concert venue that is sandwiched between two giant blocks of sandstone and is known for its music shows. If that isn’t enough to wow you, hop on the Rocky Mountaineer and its SilverLeaf service surely will.

Your host will regale you with tales of the jaw-dropping landscapes of Colorado and Utah as you chug across the Continental Divide, all while sampling delicious local fare.

In Moab you have the pick of some of Utah’s finest national parks, including Canyonlands and Arches, where red hoodoos and wild rock formations abound. Beyond, the parks of Bryce Canyon and Zion await, as do the sandstone buttes of Monument

The big numbers (this page; top – bottom) Route 66 is home to more than 250 places that are listed on the National Register of Historic Places; Rocky Mountain National Park has more than 570km of hiking trails; the iconic Pacific Coast Highway hugs California’s coast for over 900km

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Valley and a rafting trip on the mighty Colorado River, flanked by soaring crimson cliffs. Finally, sign off with a helicopter tour over Hoover Dam and the legendary Grand Canyon.

ROUTE 66 Days: 16 Why go? This is one of the most enduring road trips on Earth. It’s also a cross-country feat that showcases some of the USA’s huge diversity.

What to expect: The world-famous ‘Mother Road’ stretches from Chicago (Illinois) to Santa Monica (California). Its appeal, however, lies in the many pit stops in between; and on a self-drive

Elizabeth.Cox@milespartnership.com; Travelbag; meitu.com

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op down, playlist loud…

It’s just you and the open road. This is the American dream. But with its abundant landmarks, experiences and routes, where to begin? Enter Travelbag, a tailor-made travel specialist that has all the tools to map your ultimate USA drive. Here are three options to kick your trip into gear…

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

only for the Netflix show of the same name, but as the setting for the Mark Twain National Forest and 400-millionyear-old Meramec Caverns.

Original Route 66 motels, vintage buildings and rodeo roots await in Midwestern Oklahoma City, while the brightly painted Cadillac Ranch installation of Amarillo, Texas, is a must-see. In New Mexico’s Albuquerque, head to Central Avenue for a treasure trove of route landmarks, then continue on to Sante Fe to see its traditional adobe architecture. This route meanders the Grand Canyon’s South Rim, too, before finishing up in Santa Monica for some California chill.

THE CLASSIC WEST

or motorhome adventure, you can discover them at your own pace.

Before putting your pedal to the metal, explore Chicago. Gorge on deep-dish pizza, take a Segway tour around Lake Michigan, then discover the burgeoning art scene. Don’t miss ‘The Bean’ sculpture in Millennium Park or Grant Wood’s ‘American Gothic’ painting, which is on display at The Art Institute of Chicago. In nearby Springfield you’ll find the birthplace of Route 66, while St Louis boasts America’s tallest man-made monument: the Gateway Arch.

Speaking of gateways, this is also where the Ozarks begin, known not

Natural wonders (this page; clockwise from top, middle) The Grand Prismatic Spring in Yellowstone is the park’s largest hot spring; Arches National Park in Utah is home to more than 2,000 natural stone arches; a 27km loop allows you to discover the sights of Monument Valley on a selfdrive trip

Days: 14 Why go? Get behind the wheel to discover some of Western USA’s bestloved national parks and backdrops.

What to expect: There’s a reason so many travellers go west on their selfdrive USA getaway. This is a region blessed with landmarks, national parks and big cities, not to mention a climate that’s made for road tripping.

After a night in Los Angeles, it’s time to hit the road, travelling the otherworldly landscapes of the Mojave Desert to Laughlin, Nevada.

Set on the banks of the Colorado River, it’s a haven for outdoorsy types

– think boating, fishing and water skiing. Eastwards, pick up legendary Route 66 and cruise on to Arizona and the Grand Canyon, where strolls along the Rim Trail await, as does the chance to admire the view at sunrise or sunset. Further exploration reveals Arizona’s multi-hued Painted Desert and, in Utah, the dramatic Monument Valley. If you’re into film, seek out John Ford’s Point to glimpse the landscapes that inspired the director to shoot ten westerns there.

Then there’s all the parks: Bryce Canyon with its hoodoos; Zion and its precipitous panoramas from Angels Landing; the scorching temps in Death Valley; and the marvellous mountains, valleys and wildlife in Yosemite.

Finish up with some downtime in San Francisco, where sourdough bread, chowder and Anchor Steam beer will help you refuel after a busy trip.

ABOUT THE EXPERTS With 50 states, five territories, Washington D.C. and innumerable activities to choose from, planning your USA escape can be tough. But Travelbag’s expertise, incredible value and first-hand know-how means you’re in safe hands. Its travel experts are all about making holiday dreams come true, offering all the planning thrills and none of the hassles.

Visit travelbag.co.uk or call 020 4586 2615 to book your next www.wanderlustmagazine.com American adventure today 107

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Travel The

List

In our first ever Travel Green List, Wanderlust champions the destinations, accommodation, tours and transport operators creating a more sustainable travel experience for everyone Words Karen Edwards

Unsplash

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rom inception, we wanted the Travel Green List to be an extensive, inspiring and honest portrayal of sustainability in travel. So, we began by asking the most obvious question: what is sustainable travel?

It’s a question that often yields an elusive answer, due to the many complex aspects around sustainability.

We already know that reducing carbon emissions is crucial, as is preserving the planet’s biodiversity and ecosystems. However, the effect of tourism on communities is also vital, albeit a factor far less widely appreciated.

In fact, in most cases these go hand in hand. A well-supported society will be more empowered and equipped to protect its environment, strengthening regeneration. In regions where Indigenous peoples are striving for acknowledgement and survival, First Nations-led tourism initiatives can be empowering and educational for both visitors and locals alike. It thus follows that all these experiences should be inclusive and accessible to people of every background and ability, and not least because that’s just basic human decency.

In essence, sustainable travel is an exchange of enriching and interactive encounters that benefit both the visitor and the host. This was the philosophy we adopted in compiling the Travel Green List. In doing so, we discovered that sustainable travel experiences can

be enjoyed in the most unexpected corners of the world, where they can truly be a force for good.

The conservation of Ecuador’s Cloud Forest supported by Mashpi Eco Lodge, for example, has led to 12 new species being identified.

In Cambodia, Shinta Mani Wild’s woodland camp sustains sections of the Cardamom National Forest that were otherwise doomed to deforestation. And it’s not always small enterprises that enact change.

Amilla Maldives has opted to reduce its carbon footprint by conducting a thorough supply-chain audit, and it produces much of its food in-house.

Then there is Florida’s tourism board, who are building a strong, accessible infrastructure to ensure everyone, particularly disabled travellers, can experience the best of the state.

Throughout this list we celebrate people and places committed to making a difference: those that are taking meaningful steps towards safeguarding local culture, environment and wildlife.We pay great attention to the operators delivering deeper, more interactive travel itineraries and the transport providers making emissions reductions a priority. Finally, several well-known friends of Wanderlust have added their voices on how to travel with purpose; their wise words coming from years of travel experience.

Welcome to the first ever Wanderlust Travel Green List. ⊲

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LATIN AMERICA La Ruta de los Parques, Chile In 2019, almost 500,000 people visited Chile’s national parks, with their permit fees going towards the preservation of the county’s most fragile ecosystems. Now you can visit 17 of

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them in one epic road trip. Stretching 2,800km from the northern Patagonian city of Puerto Montt to Cape Horn at the southern tip of Tierra del Fuego, the Ruta de los Parques (Route of Parks) connects 60 communities.

The primary purpose of the route is to fund biodiversity conservation across this vast area – one that experts say stores 6,608 million metric tonnes of carbon. As one of the richest carbon sinks in South America, this is a vital

End of the road (this page; top) The peaks of Los Cuernos rise over Lake Pehoe and an obstinate-looking guanaco in Torres del Paine National Park – just one of many wild Patagonian landscapes linked up by the 2,800km Route of Parks

region for maintaining biodiversity and reducing the effects of climate change. Not only that, but the route brings money to hard-to-reach villages that otherwise see little from tourism, particularly in the remote rainforest and desert regions.

Belize In a concerted effort to support Indigenous communities, over 500 local businesses have registered to be a part

The world in a

PENINSULA

Cycling a former railway line through the rural valleys, coastal towns and hilltop villages of Croatian Istria reveals an ancient land shaped by empires and cultures far beyond its borders Words Martin Symington

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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

THE AUSTRIAN ALPS AWAIT THIS SUMMER Where to go, what to do and how to explore

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hile Austria’s mountains are an established winter destination, the region’s summer potential is only just being recognised. To miss out on the Austrian Alps when it has shed its snowy overcoat would be a pity.

Under sunny skies, its turquoise lakes and flower-strewn Alpine meadows pop against a backdrop of hoary mountain peaks. Myriad opportunities for hiking, biking and water activities create an outdoor adventure playground where health and wellness goals are easily achieved while you have fun on the mountains.

Here’s how to enjoy your holiday the Austrian way…

entire 50km loop. In May, June and July, wander beside the roses that bloom along the Alpenrosenweg.

Other trails to consider are the Berggeistweg (Mountain Ghost Path), a circular route that shows off peaks like the Patteriol, and the Two Gorges Trail, an 8km hike that ticks off the Rosanna and Mühltobelweg gorges. The longer trail down to St. Anton from Valluga requires a good head for heights, but on a clear day you’ll see the Lechtal, Allgäu and Ötztal Alps as well as being able to spot neighbouring Switzerland from the Vallugabahn top station.

Mountain bikers are in for a treat too. The challenging Galzig Trail, the steep and lengthy Heilbronner Hütte path and the family-friendly riverside Stanzertalweg are all stand-out rides.

ST. ANTON AM ARLBERG: BEST FOR HITTING THE TRAILS INNSBRUCK: FOR THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS

Innsbruck is Austria’s fifth-largest city. The Inn river bisects it, and its atmospheric promenade is popular in the summer. However, Innsbruck is best known for the Goldenes Dachl, the gilded copper roof built by Emperor Maximilian I to commemorate his wedding. Other ⊲ must-sees include the Hofburg

Kitzbuehel-Tourismus; Tourismusverband St Anton am Arlberg/Patrick Baetz

Located in the Arlberg region of the western Tirol, St. Anton’s famous winter ski slopes are reimagined in summer, when 350km of biking trails and about 300km of hiking paths cater for warm-weather visitors. The long-distance Arlberg Trail, launched in 2021, connects St. Anton with Lech, Zürs, Stuben and St. Christoph. You’ll need three days to complete the

Go the green way (left–right) Kitzbühel is home to some 1,000km of hiking paths; around 350km of biking trails await visitors in St Anton Am Arlberg

For more information, go to: austria.info

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MAKE IT HAPPEN GETTING THERE AND AROUND Alhough there are regular flights to Innsbruck and Salzburg (plus Munich across the German border), the Austrian Alps are well connected by train.

Begin your journey by Eurostar or the HarwichHook of Holland ferry. Connect with the Paris to Vienna Nightjet sleeper, which reaches Salzburg in time for breakfast, or the overnight train from Amsterdam to Innsbruck. Check the ÖBB website for routes, timings and potential stopovers. Also consider travelling via Zurich to complete the last leg of your journey through the scenic Arlberg Pass in daylight. Once you reach Austria, local trains and buses connect villages and valleys, while cable cars and chairlifts transport you to mountaintop hiking and biking trailheads. Save money by purchasing local passes like the Zillertal Activcard, which includes one return gondola trip a day. Alternatively, guest cards in places like St. Johann, Kitzbühel and even Innsbruck enable holders to use local public transport free of charge.

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WHERE TO STAY

St. Anton am Arlberg

aDLERS Design Hotel

From locally sourced food to solar energy, sustainability underpins every aspect of this stylish hotel near the Nassereinbahn base station.

aDLERS in Innsbruck successfully channels an urban-Alpine vibe.

A majestic mountain backdrop complements rather than competes with sophisticated interiors and a rooftop bar.

Ullrhaus

Zillertal

Arlmont Hotel

Ideally located between the Rendl gondola and Galzigbahn, this gorgeous property’s sleek interior brings Scandi-chic design to the Arlberg.

Innsbruck NALA individuellhotel Despite its central Innsbruck location, guests at this quirky Austria Hotel Collection property enjoy mountain views and a delightful garden terrace.

Hotel Gaspingerhof This four-star hotel in the heart of the Zillertal Area offers traditional charm and makes a great base for adventures all year round.

Hotel der Pinzger in Stumm This third-generation family-run hotel is passionate about Zillertal and will share the local traditions and mountain experiences with you. The new pool offers views over the peaks.

PROMOTIONAL FEATURE

BE A BETTER TRAVELLER SPREADING OUT Travel more sustainably by thinking about whether you’re contributing to overtourism.

Make an effort to visit lesser-known areas or travel outside peak season to help ease the pressure on popular places.

CHOOSE YOUR ACCOMMODATION WISELY While most hotels and guesthouses have got the message about reusing towels, some go the extra mile when it comes to sustainability. Be vigilant about greenwashing and choose eco-friendly options.

EAT LOCAL Food miles quickly add up, so think about what you eat. Make a point of ordering dishes that are in season or that use fresh, local ingredients where you can.

SUPPORT THE LOCALS Make an effort to support the Alpine economy by choosing local tour operators where possible. Shop and dine at independently owned businesses to ensure your money stays in the area.

TRAIN TRAVEL Cross-border trains connect Austria with Germany and Italy. Frequent intercity services run to Vienna; look out for heavily discounted Sparschiene advance tickets.

Buy tickets for local trains on the day.

STAY LONGER

St. Johann in Tirol Hotel & Wirtshaus Post Located right in the heart of St. Johann, this frescoed chalet with modern additions dates back to the 13th century.

Hotel Penzinghof Make the most of your stay in the Oberndorf countryside by borrowing hiking poles, renting a bicycle or relaxing in the outdoor pool.

TVB St. Anton am Arlberg, Patrick Baetz

Kitzbühel A-ROSA Kitzbühel This five-star hotel sits nestled among the Alps and looks out on the iconic mountains of the Hahnenkamm and the Streif. Open 365 days a year, it makes a good base for adventure.

Bio- und Seminarhotel Pointner Situated in Reith bei Kitzbühel, this meat- and smoke-free hotel cares deeply for the environment and has strong eco-credentials, offering climate-neutral accommodation and wellness workshops.

Zell am See-Kaprun Boutique Hotel Pinzgauerhof This boutique hotel in Kaprun combines urban chic with mountain romance. Expect individually designed rooms and mountain views just ten minutes from the town.

Two Timez Expect a rooftop terrace view of the lake and Alpine-chic décor furnished by a designer’s hands.

For more information, go to: austria.info

Offset the impact of your journey and travel more sustainably by staying longer. It’s a great excuse to see more of this beautiful part of the world without increasing your carbon footprint.

USE GUEST CARDS FOR PUBLIC TRANSPORT Many accommodation providers issue tourists with a guest card on arrival, offering discounts at visitor attractions, including gondolas. Also, these typically include free public transport within the local area.

REUSE YOUR WATER BOTTLE Around half of Austria’s drinking water comes from Alpine springs, which makes buying bottles of water unnecessary.

Instead, bring your own water bottle and refill it from the tap.

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Keeping things green Corcovado National Park is the epitome of Costa Rica’s approach to wilderness preservation, with its protected forests only accessible on guided tours

Sustainable

COSTA RICA

Plan the perfect green escape in Costa Rica, where there are plenty of ways to lessen your footprint and make a difference while travelling Words Nikki Solano

EUROPEAN BREAK MINI GUIDE tolerate their city names being shortened to Las Palmas or Santa Cruz, even if everyone does it.

Las Palmas’ Latin American vibe conjures Rio comparisons, thanks to the presence of its own Copacabana-style beach, known as Las Canteras, and its lively outdoor lifestyle. It feels like a big capital, and it is – this remains one of Spain’s ten largest cities. It also has many faces, which you see as you sweep south through bustling Santa Catalina and the commercial heart of the city, then on into the old quarter of Vegueta, with its hanging balconies, pretty squares, clusters of churches and the vaulting exterior of the impressive Santa Ana cathedral.

Tenerife’s Santa Cruz, on the other hand, is a stately city of grand streets and leafy parks.

It’s deeply Canarian but wears its Spanish architectural and cultural influences on its sleeve. It is also home to, reputedly, the second biggest carnival in the world, after Rio, so strap in for a party – residents demonstrate admirable creativity and stamina. This spirit ripples on year-round in the subversive Carnaval societies of La Noria district. Elsewhere, the Plaza de España sets the tone for a graceful city that is alive with old-world architecture; one where pavement cafés and lush parks abound. Indeed, both capitals have resoundingly embraced outdoor living, so take a pew and join in.

Ask a local

“When I suggest that visitors head for the Vegueta Market, they often come back amazed and tell me they have nothing like it back home. It is a delightful 19th-century alternative to the world of supermarkets.

It’s a real human experience too, with room to chat and smile with the colourful stallholders as you shop. The fish counters, in particular, are amazing and put our bountiful Atlantic waters on show. It’s hard to come away from Vegueta without buying anything.”

Oscar Calle works in marketing at the Santa Catalina hotel in Las Palmas

Taking your time While construction started on Las Palmas’ Santa Ana cathedral in 1500, it wasn’t completed for 400 years and merges a number of architectural styles

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28.1009° N, 15.4654° W & 28.4636° N, 16.2518° W

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orget any anachronistic images about Tenerife and Gran Canaria you have.

Let your mind drift off instead to two intoxicating capital cities set adrift in the deep Atlantic of Macaronesia, part of an archipelago of big skies, cobalt ocean, soaring volcanoes and sweeping beaches; a land where it seems to be springtime year-round.

Life in the city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife dates back over two millennia, to when the Canary Islands were inhabited by the Indigenous Guanche people. Much later came the Spanish, who conquered the archipelago in the 1400s and changed life here forever. By the 19th century, Santa Cruz was the capital of the Canaries and one of Europe’s most important ports; by 1927, this capital status was shared with Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, whose rise as a critical port for trade between Europe and the Americas saw it surge in importance over the centuries.

Everything on the islands flowed through them.

These twin geographical and geopolitical anomalies are part European, yes; but there is also an unmistakable South American swagger, architecturally and culturally, and their proximity to Africa has undoubtedly had a big influence. Yet while the two capitals share so much, they are very different. Their pride at being distinct is exemplified by residents who never

DISCOVER Spain

LAS PALMAS & SANTA CRUZ IN 6 DAYS Day 1: Visit the Old Town

Start in Vegueta, where the city of Las Palmas was originally forged from stone and lava blocks on the island of Gran Canaria. Wander the cobbles admiring grand frontages and hanging balconies. All roads here lead to Plaza de Santa Ana and its impressive cathedral.

Previous spread: Alamy; this page: Alamy; Dreamstime

Day 2: Head to the coast

Hit the beach. Las Canteras is a 3km-long sandy wonder. Breakfast alongside the joggers then enjoy a dip. A late lunch awaits in myriad boulevard cafés, before exploring the frenetic streets of Las Canteras’ hinterland. Ease back south along the waterfront boulevard, savouring views of the port and marina.

Day 3: Go your own way

Triana, the bit between Las Canteras and Vegueta, is bypassed by many

visitors. Don’t follow their lead.

Instead, join the locals in reclining in its cafés and tapas haunts. The elegant avenues and side streets are alive with all sorts of independent shops, from shoemakers to barbers.

Continue to Parque San Telmo, one of the city’s bountiful green spaces, which is also home to the elegant Ermita de San Telmo chapel.

Day 4: To Santa Cruz…

Take a ferry from Las Palmas and sit port-side to enjoy views of Gran Canaria’s coast and Tenerife’s huge Mount Teide (3,715m – almost three times higher than Scotland’s Ben Nevis) on the approach to Santa Cruz. Take in the city’s grand Plaza de España and revamped waterfront, including the remarkable Auditorio de Tenerife, then work your way back uphill towards the city’s favourite green lung, Parque García Sanabria.

Day 5: Get cultural

Delve deep into Tenerife’s culture.

The Museo de la Naturaleza y Arqueología explores back to the time of the Guanches (the island’s Indigenous people); learn too about Mount Teide. The Tenerife Espacio des Arts (TEA) boasts avant-garde architecture and art. And last but not least is the Museo de Bellas Artes, which includes works by the Flemish artist Pieter Coecke and a number of Canarian painters. Evening brings a tapas crawl of La Noria, the district draped in Carnaval culture.

Day 6: Hit the mountains

Catch the bus to Playa de Las Teresitas. Walk the sands, peering up towards the Anaga mountains, before treating yourself to a seafood lunch in the village of San Andrés, then finish with an evening stroll around the pedestrianised core. ⊲

Walk back in time (this page; clockwise from top left) Gran Canaria’s San Andrés is filled with centuriesold mansions that date back to when this was a centre for wealthy traders; Tenerife’s mid-16th century Ermita de San Telmo chapel was originally founded by the local Mariner’s Guild; Carnaval takes over Tenerife’s capital on the week prior to Ash Wednesday; (previous spread, left–right) an area of coloured houses known as the ‘painted hillside’, looms over Vegueta in Las Palmas; the Santiago Calatravadesigned Auditorio de Tenerife was completed in 2003

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