Wanderlust March 2013

20 years of Wanderlust, 1993-2013

March 2013 www.wanderlust.co.uk

Win!

tri a f r p s to Soutihca and Turn t Tyrol 20&120o page now!

The real Burma Mandalay and beyond...

Gorilla watching Discover these majestic apes deep in the Congo

Travel photos

16

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page special of winning images

Marrakech Puerto Rico Marseille Norfolk Coast Port Moresby

Istanbul

Carpets, cafés and culture in Turkey

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Wanderlust Issue 134 (March 2013) The Real Burma • Istanbul • Gorilla watching in Congo • Puerto Rico • North Norfolk Coast • Travel Photos of the Year • Pocket guides: Marrakech, Marseille, Port Moresby

Celebrating 20 years in travel

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Contents march 2013 • issue 134

360°

From the road

6 | World in pictures Three stunning shots from our Travel Photo of the Year finalists 12 | Shortcuts Global travel news this month 14 | Go now! Hot tips for a spontaneous break in Casablanca, Chicago and more...

15 | World Diary The best global events – from banishing evil in Bali to donkey races in Italy

37 | Snapshots There’s nothing more inspiring than seeing where Wanderlust readers have been travelling – here’s a selection of your best shots

16 | Departures Nine of the best photo trips 18 | Hilary Bradt talks... festivals and fiestas

your emails and comments – keep them coming!

Here’s the best from this month’s postbag

42 | Just Back From… myWanderlust forum members share the highlights, must-sees and top tips discovered on their travels; this month it’s Bolivia, India, USA, Cambodia and Belgium...

92 Norfolk

Cover feature

burma

38 | Letters etc... Our inbox is crammed with

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Chicago p14

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Marrakech p133

© Features 22 | Burma

Martin Symington travels to Mandalay and then leaves it to discover the real Burma, beyond country’s newly flourishing tourist circuit

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44 | Gorilla watching in Congo

Mark Stratton meets these majestic apes and we show you where else to spot them in the wild

58 | Istanbul : On Assignment

Puerto Rico

Carpets, cafes and culture... we tasked a team of Wanderlust readers to capture the city’s secrets, and here’s what they discovered!

82 | Puerto Rico

Yankee meets Latino in the off-beat Caribbean islands; Martin Symington does some blue-sky thinking in Puerto Rico

92 | Norfolk Coast

Wanderlust’s intrepid editor Phoebe Smith goes to eastern extremes on the north Norfolk coast

102 | Travel Photo of the Year Special

16 pages dedicated to the finalists and winning images from this year’s hard-fought competition

WipIsN to…

Tr

a 20 Kenyyrol 120 T t– South’t miss ou Don ter now! en

THE FUTURE Like this map?

MAPPING To buy a similar wall map, COMPANY visit www.futuremaps.co.uk 004-005_Contents_SO.indd 4

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Navigator

Arrivals

73 | How to... Learn a language, deal with

123 | Books Globetrotting tips, coffee table

leeches, find the best music bars in Dublin 75 | Gear What to pack for protection 76 | Health Dr Jane offers her essential advice on dealing with diabetes when you’re travelling 78 | Photo tips It’s all in the composition – get in the frame with Steve Davey’s expert advice 80 | Q&A Border crossing into Jordan, diving in Indonesia, what being an AITO member means – you ask the questions, we find the answers!

Pocket Guides

photobooks and travel tales to inspire you...

125 | Guides High times to celebrate the 60th anniversary of summiting Mount Everest, plus ten underdog destinations you should visit now!

128 | What’s on All you need to fuel your wanderlust! The coolest events in the UK travel calendar plus unmissable TV, DVD and film releases – and find out why Jeremy Irons is looking forlorn...

See31

133 | Marrakech, Morocco Lose yourself in the streets and soak up the atmosphere in Marrakech’s iconic souks

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135 | Marseille, France Take a short break in the Mediterranean’s most historic port and City of Culture 2013 137 | Port Moresby, Papua New Guinea Don’t waste a second! Must-know tips for your first 24hrs in the wild and notorious capital

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58 Istanbul

Marseille p135

Burma p22

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137 Port Moresby

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44 Congo

Bali p15

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Photo of the year 2012

The judges had over 7,000 entries to sift through for our 2012 Travel Photo of the Year Competition... not an easy task! To inspire you to enter this year, here’s a 16-page special showcasing all the finalists and winners...

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Go green Dyeing the Chicago River for St Patrick’s day

Go now!

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Spring into 2013 with these four trips – perfect for March

1 Casablanca, Morocco

2 Chicago, USA

3 Moscow, Russia

Easy access to Russia

4 Guernsey, Channel Islands

Why go? Immortalised on the big screen in 1942, Casablanca is worth seeing in real life too – something that’s set to get easier, thanks to new flights from Royal Air Maroc. The city has a diverse heritage, from the alleys of its Old Medina to the 1930s chic of Mohammed V place. Don’t miss the remarkable Hassan II Mosque, which perches on an outcrop overlooking the Atlantic. It could be the start of a beautiful friendship...

Where to stay: Moroccan House Casablanca (www. moroccanhousehotels.com) has a riad feel. Doubles from €75.

Getting there: From 27 March, Royal Air Maroc (020 7307 5800, www.royalairmaroc.com) will fly Gatwick-Casablanca non-stop three times a week.

Why go? Outside Ireland, Chicago is one of the top spots to celebrate St Patrick’s Day (17 Mar). The Chicago River has been dyed shamrock green since 1962, and the main procession along Columbus Drive is still the biggest deal. But there are alternatives. The South Side Irish St Patrick’s Day parade along Western Avenue (www. southsideirishparade.org) is held a week earlier, on 10 March, with more emphasis on community, charity, faith and heritage.

Where to stay: Boutique B&B Villa d’Citta (www.villadcitta. com) is near the Lincoln Park area and a couple of blocks from the Metro. Doubles from $179.

Getting there: Various airlines fly UK-Chicago. Fares in March start from around £400 return.

Why go? Russia’s decadent capital is well worth checking out – especially now budget airline easyJet have made it even more accessible with the launch of two new daily flights! Wander through Red Square, past the Kremlin and the iconic domes of St Basil’s cathedral. Take the subway out to Gorky Park, which stretches along the banks of the Moscow River: the ice sculptures should still be twinkling – and you can test your skating skills.

Where to stay: Stay in a flat with a kitchen to save eating out at Moscow’s notorious pricey eateries. Moscow Apartments (www.apartmentsmoscow.com) has central stays from £96pn.

Getting there: easyJet’s (www. easyjet.com) new 4hr flights from Gatwick. Prices from £125rtn.

Why go? Discover Guernsey’s culture and landscapes on its new calendar of ‘Tasty Walks’ across March and April. Work up an appetite for Saturday lunch along the wild, rugged coastline on A West Coast Wander, meet Guernsey’s Uninvited Guests over afternoon tea (Tues and Thurs), and walk through 1,000 years of history on A Stitch in Time (Mon). See visitguernsey.com Where to stay: Abbey Court Hotel (www.guernseyhotels. com) is handy for St Peter Port and buses around the island.

Rooms from £40 pppn B&B. Getting there: Take the 45min flight from mainland UK or the ferry from Poole/Portsmouth; combined SailRail fares are available. See www.seat61.com.

Toast Paddy, stateside

Whet your appetite

Dreamstime; iStock; visitguernsey

Hop aboard new flights

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What’s on in March Banish evil, Bali Can you still recall that nasty New Year’s Day hangover? If so, how about a second chance at welcoming in a new annum? A celebration where silence and spirituality – not downing champagne – are the order of the day.

Balinese Hindus end their year with four days of rituals and ceremonies. The first day is all about cleansing, when people bathe themselves and their household deities in the sea, and ask Varuna – the ocean god – to purify their souls. The next day, large bamboo effigies of demons are paraded around the streets and then burned, to ward off evil. The third day is Nyepi, New Year itself – a period of silence, stillness and quiet contemplation. On the final day, families gather to pray and perform colourful exorcism ceremonies, to make sure that any lingering bad spirits are well and truly dispatched.

To fully recharge your own batteries after Nyepi, you might consider taking part in the Bali Spirit Festival (www.balispiritfestival.com). Held 20-24 March in Ubud, 20km north of provincial capital Denpasar, it’s a celebration of yoga, dance, music and culture – so definitely the ideal start to your new-look New Year!

9-10Mar

12 Mar, Nyepi Day 24Mar

1–3 Mar Grape expectations, Argentina The Argentinean trinity of wine, colossal quantities of barbecued beef and singing aren’t better indulged than at the Vendimia Festival in Mendoza. Celebrating the grape harvest with thousands of vintners, wine aficionados and a glass of the good stuff – we’d rate the Malbec.

Go pan-Pacific, Auckland

Alamy; Brownpages.co.nz; Corbis; istockphoto;

Visit Fiji, Tonga, Tahiti and more, all at once: New Zealand’s Pasifika Festival transforms Auckland’s Western Springs Park into ten diverse cultural villages, filled with dance, food and fashion from across the Pacific. aucklandnz.com/pasifika

Give it up for the donkeys, Italy In Torrita di Siena they know how to celebrate the Festa di San Giuseppe. This Tuscan village holds donkey races between rival neighbourhoods; racers get a boost from zeppole, sugary dough balls topped with jelly, custard or honey.

2Mar – 7Apr Hike amid maples, Toronto Bruce’s Mill and Kortright Conservation Area (both a 30-minute drive from Toronto) open their forests for the Sugarbush Maple Syrup Festival. Find out how Canada’s favourite goo is collected, learn to tap trees and indulge in syrupy dishes. www.maplesyrupfest.com

27Mar (starts)

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Party in the pink, Washington DC

Apr

Each spring, Washington’s 3,000-odd cherry trees – a gift from Japan – begin to bloom, heralding the start of the National Cherry Blossom Festival. Visit the US capital for a month of Asian-spiced street shenanigans, fireworks, art installations and more. www.nationalcherryblossomfestival.org

Celebrate in colour, India The Holi Festival commemorates the victory of good over evil, brought about by the burning of the demoness, Holika. The revellers of India get together, regardless of religion, caste or class, with the celebrations culminating in a wonderful array of brightly coloured powders.

Note: some regional dates vary!

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Burma 1

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pagodas, ancient Buddhist sites, I Golden 1 isolated I 1villages and teak treks

Fly UK-Yangon, with a stopover; journey I Itime around 14 hours 1 I 1 Peak: Dec-Feb; Oct-Nov: quieter, fine I

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ON THE GOLDEN PATH Newly opened Burma is 2013’s must-see spot. But beyond the main sites of its flourishing tourist circuit lie even brighter – and unknown – gems

Words & pictures Martin Symington

World-class wonder The Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, a place of worship and a meeting place for locals

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Burma Footnotes VITAL STATISTICS

Capital: Naypyidaw (since 2005) Population: 55 million Languages: Burmese; minority ethnic group languages. English widely understood.

Time: GMT+6.5 International dialling code: +95 Visas: Required by UK nationals. Apply in advance from the Myanmar Embassy, 19A Charles St, London W1J 5DX (020 7499 4340); single-entry visas, valid for up to 28 days, cost £14. Easier is to use an agency such as Travcour (020 8543 1846, www.travcour.com), which charges £48, including visa fee; allow ten working days. Note, rules change: check the situation before travel.

Money: Kyat (MMK), currently around 1,350MMK to the UK£. Foreign cards are not accepted at ATMs or outside a few top hotels.

Take US dollars in cash, in pristine notes; these can be changed at banks or used as currency.

When to go Jan

Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

■ Dry and relatively cool; cold at night in the hills. Peak tourist season.

■ Increasingly hot, with temperatures up to 40°C in Yangon and the central plains.

■ Monsoon, with rainfall peaking JulyAugust. Hot and sticky. Low season.

■ Shoulder period. Rain eases, temps high.

Health & safety Be vaccinated against diphtheria, polio, tetanus, typhoid and hepatitis A. The Foreign Office (www.gov.uk/fco) currently advises against all but essential travel to Rakhine State, and to exercise ‘extreme caution’ in border regions. That said, there is little crime against tourists and, in general, Burma feels uncommonly safe.

Further reading & info Myanmar (Lonely Planet, 2011) Burmese Days (1934) by George Orwell www.myanmar-tourism.com Myanmar Tourism Promotion Board

More online Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/134 for links to more content: Archive articles

Burma: 15 responsible travel tips – online Burma: a golden future? – issue 124, Nov 11 How to cook Burmese food – online

Planning guides

Burma/Myanmar guide

6

Inle is Burma’s second-largest lake

The trip The author travelled with Audley Travel (01993 838 000, www.audleytravel. co.uk). A two-week tailormade itinerary, including four days in and around Kengtung, a three-day overland journey between Mandalay and Bagan, plus stays at both of these and at Yangon and Inle Lake, costs from about £3,900pp based on two sharing. This price includes international and internal flights, B&B accommodation in good or ‘best available’ hotels, guides, permits, private transfers and all transport.

Getting there There are no direct flights from the UK to Yangon. The easiest connections are via Doha with Qatar Airways (0844 846 8380, www.qatarairways.com), which flies from Heathrow and Manchester. Return fares cost from £693 including taxes. Flight time is about 14 hours including stopover.

Cost of travel Compared with other countries in the region, holidays in Burma are pricey.

The policy is for higher-spend lower-density tourism. Furthermore, the demand for hotels currently far exceeds the supply, so accommodation prices have rocketed to levels comparable with Europe.

On the other hand, day-to-day expenses such as food and travel are cheap. So long as you avoid restaurants in top hotels, you can eat extremely well for about £12 a head.

Taxis cost perhaps a quarter of what you might be used to in the UK. Tips are an important part of guides’ and drivers’ livelihoods. There are no rules, but for good service consider about £12 per day for the former and £6 for the latter.

Accommodation In the four main tourist centres, three- and four-star hotels cost £100-150 a night. For something more five-star deluxe, doubles start at over £200 a night – and, even at these prices, getting a room in peak season can by tough. There is little backpacker culture, and consequently few budget hostels.

Elsewhere, options are limited. In Kengtung the ‘best available’ was the clean and friendly but basic (two star-ish) Princess Hotel (+95 84 22159; about £120 for a double, B&B). In Monywa, we stayed in the modern and functional, but uncharacteristically charmless Win Unity Resort Hotel (+95 71 22438, www.winunityhotel.com; £110).

From an ethical viewpoint, it is crucial to avoid hotels run by the <

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Shwedagon Paya is one of Budd hism’s most remar kable monuments

5

things I wish I’d known

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For most Burmese, Buddhism is all-pervasive with its rituals and observances followed unselfconsciously.

To arrive with some understanding of the underlying philosophy is viewed as a mark of deep respect.

BHUTAN

< government’s Ministry of Hotels and

Myitkyina Myitk

A

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Tourism. Responsible tour operators (such as Audley Travel) have such a policy.

And you will not find these recommended VIETNAM in the Lonely Planet guidebook.

IN CH

IA IND

BANGLADESH

Phowin Hill

Lashio Mandalayy Ma Mandala Maymyo Maym ym Mt Popa pa 3 Po

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KAREN KARE 600km m

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YANGON

AIL

Shwedagon Paya

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Naypyida w Naypyidaw

Kengtung

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Andam an Island s

Burma Highights ANDAMAN

1. Shwedagon Paya,SEA Yangon One of the world’s most stupefying and mystical monuments: a golden dome housing eight hairs of the Buddha, with a spire soaring skywards and an aura to match.

2. Kengtung Hub of the Shan States’ ‘Golden Triangle’ and gateway to the tribal hill villages.

3. Balloon ride over Bagan An indefinable sense of peace and awe descends as you rise into the mist-filtered light of dawn over a panorama of 3,000 pagodas by the Ayeyarwady River.

4. U Bein Bridge This 1.2km-long teak footbridge curves gently over Taungthaman Lake at Amarapura, near Mandalay. Villagers silhouetted by the setting sun as they push their bikes home paint an ineffably romantic picture.

5. Phowin Hill, Monywa An isolated sandstone outcrop rising out of flatness, pitted with cool caves containing treasure troves of sacred sculpture and paintings. Astonishingly little-known.

Dreamstime

6. Inle Lake Gliding across the glassy surface, speckled with lotus flowers and surrounded by the Shan Hills, feels pretty close to heaven.

OS LA

Sittwe Bay of Bengal

4

Bagan

U Bein Bridge

Food & drink

A meal in Burma consists of multiple dishes, shared by everybody at the table.

Typical dishes are spicy and similar – though generally less hot – than those in neighbouring Thailand. There are also strong influences from India and China, CAMBODIA hence plenty of pork and duck as well as chicken and lamb curries, served with rice or noodles. Fish, both from the sea and Gulf oflakes, is ubiquitous. In Shan State, the food Thailand tends more towards the Thai style, so fiery unless you ask for it mild.

Try the expensive and unpalatable wine grown and vinified near Inle Lake, if you must. Best beers are the lager-style Tiger, followed by Myanmar.

2

Burmese people not only love to be photographed, but will greatly appreciate being shown pictures you have brought from home.

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People who approach you and start a conversation are not necessarily trying to sell something. After so many years of isolation, meeting foreigners is still a novelty.

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Official tourist guides are professionals trained to an exceptionally high standard.

The gratuities they receive are a large part of their earnings.

5

UK mobiles don’t work here.

Voicemail, however urgent, will just have to wait.

Responsible travel Human rights in Burma remain dire, despite the improving and fastchanging political situation. While it is impossible to prevent all the money you spend ending up in the abusers’ coffers, there are things you can do to help tourism benefit the Burmese people.

Here are five: 1) Travel independently, rather than in a group. This will make it much easier to engage with local people.

2) Stay at independently-owned hotels and guesthouses wherever possible.

3) Eat in local restaurants, spreading your custom.

4) Buy handicrafts directly from the people who produce them, as you travel around the country.

5) When you are back, keep in contact with the people who touched your lives via email or post, and by sending photographs. ■

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Congo

I Sapping, sweaty, tough â&#x20AC;&#x201C; but incredible, 1 unmatched I 1 wildlife encounters

I I 1 Fly UK-Brazzaville via Paris (approx 11 hrs) I 1 May-Oct: dry season. Best for those amazing gorilla trekking experiences I

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Heart of lightness The darkness Conrad found in Congo can still be felt, but as new lodges open for sustainable and incredible gorilla tourism, things look far brighter...

Words Mark Stratton

Gorgeous gorilla: A western lowland gorilla walks through a cloud of butterflies

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Istanbul 1

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splendour, shopping I Byzantine 1 bonanzas I 1 and continent-crossing culture

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Fly UK-Ataturk or Sabiha Gokcen Airport (4hrs) 1 1

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April or Oct: good weather, fewer tourists

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Reader Assignment:

Istanbul

Straddle Europe and Asia while admiring 2,500 years of crosscontinental culture, history – and maybe a few cafés too…

All words and pictures by Wanderlust readers travelling in September 2012

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Istanbul

“No, we don’t do chips…” The market place is a maze of fresh – and delicious – food

TOP 5 TASTES

1 2

Try fresh street food: simit – bread rings covered in sesame seeds; borek – filo pastry with meat or vegetable fillings; gozleme – filled pancakes; mısır – corn on the cob.

Wine was first produced in Anatolia 4,000 years ago, and there are still some pleasantly surprising wines available. For white, try Narince 2011; for a full-bodied red, Okuzgozu 2008. For more information, visit www.kayrawinecenter.com.

Be picky on your kebab quest. For an authentic taste, join the queues at takeaway gem Donerci Sahin Usta (branches near the Grand Bazaar and Nuruosmaniye Mosque) or sit down with views of the Bosphorus at Hamdi Restaurant on Eminonu Square (www.hamdi.com.tr).

Those with a sweet tooth should feast on melt-in-themouth lokum (Turkish delight), flavoured with rose water, mint, almond and more. Also try delicious baklava pastries soaked in syrup and honey, and stuffed with almonds or pistachios (left).

A meze platter makes a good meal – hummus, stuffed vine leaves, aubergine puree, meatballs, courgette fritters, deep-fried prawns and grilled cheese are usual suspects. > Wash it all down with rakı, an anise-flavoured aperitif.

>

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MEET THE LOCALS

Bulent Sevim Rug shop owner

“Some people insist on buying only antique rugs but others want a brand new one, on which their baby can take its first steps.”

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TOP 5 EXPERIENCES

1

Indulge at a traditional hammam (Turkish bath).

Go for a mid-range ‘with bubbles’ massage to get the full experience – from exfoliation to therapeutic hair-washing. The most visited are Cemberlitas Hamamı (built 1584; www.cemberlitashamami. com.tr) and Cagaloglu Hamamı (1741; www. cagalogluhamami.com.tr). Late evening is quietest; prices start from 40TL (£14).

Treat yourself to a night at the famous Pera Palace Hotel (www.jumeirah.com) – perhaps in the suite Hemingway used, or the one where Agatha Christie reputedly wrote Murder on the Orient Express. Doubles from around €200.

Relax in a nargile café, sipping apple cay (tea) or Turkish coffee, and smoking through a water pipe. Try cappuccino tobacco through milk for a different start to the day!

Hang out on roof terraces – day or night, these offer spectacular panoramas of bustling ferries, sparkling waters, endless rooftops and golden minarets.

Watch whirling dervishes perform the Sema, a religious dance. As they spin, their right hands > face heaven, their left point to the earth.

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Spinning in ecstasy Whirling dervishes perform their ancient Sufi ritual

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How to | Skills | Gear | Health | Photo tips | Q&A

Navigator

“Petra is huge – you can’t see it in two hours...” Top tips for border crossing trips into Jordan from Israel, p81

Travel need-to-knows, from music bars in Dublin to dealing with leeches Take my advice

How to... learn a language GoLearnTo.com’s linguistic guru Ulrike Reinke offers tips on how to start speaking like a local

1

Get tuition on the ground Forget language CDs and online learning, you can only really learn a language when you are immersed in the country and the culture, and are forced to speak to the locals.

2

Live with a local Staying with a local host forces you to speak the language outside of school time, which helps you to pick it up much faster and get used to the new sounds. You also get to know the culture better, in a friendly, personal environment.

3

Immerse yourself Always choose a language school that offers complete immersion: it is very important that teachers at the school only speak in the language you want to learn, even if you are an absolute beginner. You might feel insecure starting out, but you’ll soon be conversing.

4

Do ‘language-plus’ courses Language courses combined with other courses, such as cooking, are very useful for acquiring new vocabulary, learning more about the country’s culture and generally enriching your language-learning stay.

5

Avoid touristy guided trips Groups are almost always huge, guides usually speak in English and you run from one point to another without having time to appreciate what you are visiting. Languageschool guides usually speak in the native language and take time to answer individual questions.

6

Make efforts to meet the locals In touristy cities, it’s difficult to meet the natives. Ask the language-school staff where you can find the bars, clubs and restaurants that the locals go to.

“What’s your returns policy?”

Haggling at Saquisilí market in Ecuador

Dreamstime

GoLearnTo.com runs a range of learning trips, from language tuition to jewellery-making, kiteboarding, dancing and more

Did you know? There are 6,912 living languages; English has the most words (250,000), Khmer has the largest alphabet (74 letters), Botswanan !Xóõ has the most sounds (112) Wanderlust March 2013 | 73

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Navigator Gear

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What to pack… for protection

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1 THE BAG BOLT Eagle Creek’s high-tensile 3-Dial TSA Lock & Cable keeps kit secure (£15, www.nomadtravel.co.uk) 2 THE HIDEAWAY HOODIE AyeGear’s fleece-lined H12 Hoodie has 12 discreet pockets for secreting your valuables (£44.99, www.ayegear.com). 3 THE PERSONAL POUCH Lifeventure’s water-resistant Dri-Store Body Wallet Chest m keeps valuables close and dry (£11.99, www.lifeventure.co.uk) 4 THE SUPER SUNSCREEN Care Plus Sun fro vel – r a Protection Outdoor & Sea SPF50 is not only water-resistant but protects against most jellyfish stings, too (£12.99, ge d Tra oks / ff o www.careplus.eu) 5 THE PROTECTIVE PACK The tough Lowe Alpine Trek Pod 20 has a discreet zipped pocket in k % o ma s B o.u the back panel, so pickpockets can’t get close (£30, www.lowealpine.com) 6 THE SAFE SIPPER The pocket-size t 10 n, No Bob st.c lick e u d G ha n rl d c SteriPEN Adventurer Opti water purifier uses UV rays to kill 99.99% of bacteria, viruses and protozoa (£85.99, Ro res, a nde e an ers’ www.steripen.com) 7 THE IMPENETRABLE BAG Made from hyperbaric material, Rohan’s Drylocker 60 kitbag is a in ff o t w S sit az ot O waterproof, sandproof and dustproof (£120, www.rohan.co.uk) 8 THE SMART STRAP Go Travel’s durable Strap n vi mag n ‘H Lock three-digit combination clasps keep cases safe on the carousel (£8.99, www.go-travelproducts.com) o 9 THE CLEVER SHIRTS Craghoppers’ long-sleeved NosiLife shirts – women’s Kochin, men’s Solis – protect against sun and insects, and have zip pockets too (£52/£60, www.craghoppers.com) 10 THE TRUSTY TROUSERS Páramo’s light and durable Maui II Cargo Trousers have seven zip and button-down pockets (£60, www.paramo.co.uk)

T A T! GE OUN SC DI

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Beyond imagination The off-beat Caribbean: Yankee yet proudly Latino, part-tamed but still wild, and sprinkled with a bit of Mother Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s magic

Words Martin Symington

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Puerto Rico

The old and the view Sunset views from the fort watch tower in Old San Juan

< I had the temerity to ask my waitress.

“Only the pelicans eat fresher, sir!” she laughed reassuringly.

Into the wild Heading back into the Luquillo Mountains in the east of the island, I climbed through a layer of cloud to emerge at the mist-tattered edge of 114 sq km El Yunque National Forest, the only rainforest on US territory.

At El Portal Visitor Centre I met guide Yugo Morales who had plotted a 14km, all-day trek for me, starting at the Baño de Oro trailhead and linking together some of the more arcane tracks through the dense tangles.

I puffed and sweated trying to keep up with ultra-fit Yugo (“as a kid I had a Yugoslavia soccer team shirt and the nickname stuck”) who had served Uncle Sam as a marine in Iraq. We climbed muddy tracks and plunged

into ravines, in one place using loops of long-stemmed, woody vines to ease ourselves down the side of a waterfall where writhing coils of spray thundered into a rocky pool. Every now and again we would emerge at a glade with sweeping views down to the coastline and milky-blue bands of the Caribbean beyond.

Yugo pointed out insect-eating plants and termite cities as he revealed, by degrees, some unexpected passions. For example, he proved to be an expert in rare birds and the trees in which they nest: he located a glossy-leafed tree, home to the endangered Puerto Rican parrot (though sadly the birds weren’t around). Then, in the folds of a red-flowered bush, we found a hummingbird’s nest occupied by a pair of cream-coloured eggs the size of coffee beans.

I also learned how natural medicines found in El Yunque’s barks and leaves have

long been of interest to drug companies. In consequence Puerto Rico now produces more than half of all the medicines consumed in the USA, which explained those pharmaceutical factories outside San Juan.

That evening I stayed at a little forest lodge, stupendously positioned on a mountainside just beyond the National Forest border.

Recently opened by reformed New York stockbroker José Rafael, the seven-room El Hotelito boosts its eco-credentials by using rainwater and solar power, and by serving only simple, locally sourced food. It struck me as a rare example of far-sighted investment.

After dinner I lay swinging in a hammock on the terrace with a glass of rum on ice, listening to the chirping music of the coquí frogs. From here I had an uninterrupted view out across the Vieques Sound to the island itself, twinkling in the darkness and promising its own special magic. ■

Alamy

‘We emerged to sweeping views down the coastline and milky-blue bands beyond’

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Short break

marseille france Maritime metropolis Marseille’s Vieux Port is still the heart of the city

Where? South-coast France Why? To feel the buzz of the city’s 2013-focused regeneration, and to explore France’s newest national park When? Year-round

f you want an urban antidote to ‘Gay Paree’, look no further than Marseille. France’s second city spurns chocolate-box romance, but exercises a salty attraction entirely its own. When you mention Marseille to people who don’t know it, the reaction is often mild horror, due in part to its headlinegrabbing drug murders. But you can reassure them: like Naples, which has a similar image problem, it’s a terrific city, perfect for a long weekend in the sun.

It’s also complex: you have to work at Marseille a bit. Even on arrival, it doesn’t fall over itself to greet you, though the arrival is always dramatic.

The last couple of times I arrived by train. The grand 1848-built Saint Charles station is as impressive a monument as anything in the city, with its magnificent esplanade and stairway, bordered by

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Marseille Tourist Board

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France’s second city is a European Capital of Culture in 2013 – making this year the one to explore its old centre, regenerated districts and the wild coast beyond, says Philip Sweeney

animals and princesses in stone, one of the oldest centres of human sweeping towards the port. The great settlement in France, a port for both gold Madonna on the Church of Notre Greeks and Phoenicians millennia Dame de la Garde is visible on its hill before becoming France’s doorway across the harbour. to the south. This made it a huge racial Both times I arrived, classic bazaar, peopled by France’s one-time Marseille-bolshy taxi drivers overseas subjects – who refused to take me to the invariably arrived here – as Vieux Port, claiming the well as dozens of other Avoid tourist fish traffic was impossible. global communities. restaurants. Look You can see their point: At times it seems beyond the Vieux Port; it’s been a building site half the Marseillais try La Boîte à Sardines (blvd de l’Independance), have Italian names, and for a decade, as it Toinou ( La Canebière) or most of the remainder attempts to transform François Coquillages itself into a BarcelonaCorsican or North (ave du Prado). style capital of cool.

African. This is significant Marseille’s year as in the matter of food: Marseille European Capital of Culture is is one of the best places to eat in intensifying the pace of construction.

France, with many old-fashioned The old dock area of La Joliette is restaurants selling delicious local disappearing under concrete, out pizzas, Maghrebin cous cous and good of which futuristic museums are seafood (try the supions – little squid), emerging, the latest instalment of plus the famous but expensive and 2,500 years of building. Marseille is often disappointing bouillabaisse.

top tip

Plateau oursins – sea urchin, anyone?

Marseille covers a large area in a haphazard fashion. A Napoleonic palace sits out beside a race track; 1950s tower blocks are plonked in the old centre. Historic châteaux share a hill with crime-ridden slums, which nonetheless have magical Med views.

There are city beaches, dilapidated but fine old quartiers filled with Bohemian youths, bits of Provençal village tucked behind African markets – enclaves you may not see on your first visit, but to which you’ll soon be planning to return. >

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Wanderlust Pocket Guides <

marseille day by day

Get to grips with the gritty Mediterranean city, then explore the coast beyond  Day 1

Essential info

Start in the city’s heart

When to go: Year round: winters can be mild enough for short sleeves, spring and autumn are the perfect temperature, and summers ideal for beach-lazing. Also bear in mind the Marseille 2013 European Capital of Culture programme (see below).

Getting there: Marseille-Provence airport is served from multiple UK airports by Ryanair, easyJet and BA; note, some routes are seasonal.

Flight time is around 2 hours. By train, Marseille is 3 hours from Paris, 6/7 from London. London returns from £119 (www.raileurope.co.uk).

france

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Marseille

 Day 2

Getting around: The airport is Start at the hub of things, the Vieux a 25min, €8 shuttlebus ride from Port, in the 1920s café La Samaritaine, central St Charles station. Around on the corner of Rue de la République; town, use the Metro, new tramway this grand Haussmann-style boulevard and buses. has sleek new trams that glide up Where to stay: Hôtel Alizé (www. towards Place de la Joliette. With your alize-hotel.com), near to Vieux Port, coffee, buy La Marseillaise – this paper is a good mid-price option; it’s newly is still printed on antique mechanical refurbished, and very convenient. presses at nearby Place aux Huiles.

Doubles from €79. A cheaper choice Next, peer at the bouillabaisse is Etap Hotel Marseille Vieux Port ingredients on the fishermen’s stalls (www.etaphotel.com); doubles (the fish market proper is now down from €60. the coast at Saumaty). Then stroll the Where to eat: For cheap and cheerful Quai, admiring the 17th-century Town food such as pizzas and supions, try Hall, almost the only historic building Chez Etienne (rue de Lorette) or left after the Germans dynamited the Chez Vincent (rue Glandevès) – maze of old streets in 1943. This was both are Marseille institutions. For once a red light district of such renown a pricey bouillabaisse blow-out, that pamphlet guides circulated head for Le Miramar, Quai du Port around the merchant shipping world. (lemiramar.fr).

Walk up through the old quartier of Further info: For the 2013 European Le Panier, stopping at Bar des Capital of Culture programme visit 13 Coins (local of Fabio www.mp2013.fr.

Montale, the anti-hero For general info, go to of Jean-Claude Izzo’s www.marseille-tourisme.

For North African products, a bustle of noir crime novels). com. The Tourist Office nationalities, antiques Continue through is at the bottom of and bric-à-brac in one Place de Lenche, La Canebière by rough but picturesque with its little theatre Vieux Port. area, go to the Marché aux Puces, open daily.

But watch your pockets...

Top tip

and café terraces, to the neo-Byzantine Cathédrale de la Major (above), the second-newest in France; it has views over La Joliette, Saint Jean fort, and ferries to Algiers, Corsica and Tunis.

Beyond is the Euroméditerranée district: the old stone docks have been renovated, and are now home to smart shops and cafés. The former Arenc Silo is now an arts centre while the newest landmark is a curvaceous glass tower designed by Zaha Hadid.

Discover boho bars & mini Africa true Marseille fashion – by as many red-light bars as chic boutiques.

Walk through the Marché des Capucins, a mini Africa full of exotic veg, spices and crates of chickens awaiting halal despatch. Pause for coffee either at the historic café Noailles or brasserie Les Danaïdes with its tables under the acacia trees.

Once past La Canebière you arrive at the Palais Longchamp, a grandiose Napoleonic hymn to water, with its extraordinary cascade of fountains; it’s now a museum of natural history and fine art. To your right, elegant Cours Julien leads to the Bohemian quartier of La Plaine, full of little boutiques, bookshops, art galleries, bistros and graffiti (AKA street art); this is a good place for evening bar-hopping.

In the opposite direction, amid the web of fascinating old streets behind St Charles station, is La Friche belle de Mai, a great expanse of former tobacco warehouses halfway through a massive transformation into a complex of performance spaces, galleries, artists’ studios and cafés.

 Day 3

Nip into France’s newest national park Take Bus 35 east from Vieux Port to l’Estaque (above), a pretty fishing village and magnet for 19th-century painters, notably Cézanne and Braque.

There’s a row of medium-price fish restaurants and kiosks selling local specialities chichi fregi (doughnuts) and panisses (chickpea fritters).

On the other side of the city, a long Corniche winds past beaches and old villas, with fine views of the Frioul Islands and Château d’If. Off the Corniche, the 19th-century Prado avenue – Marseille’s Champs-Élysées – leads to Place Castellane with its ornate fountain and smart shops.

The Corniche ends at Calanques National Park: a landscape of wild scrubby hills and rocky inlets – some with deserted beaches, some with small harbours and fishermen’s cabanons. Calanques boat tours leave from Vieux Port, or you can hike along the coastal paths. The nearest harbour is Les Goudes (reachable by bus), which has two super fish restaurants.

Beyond the Calanques, and a short train hop from the city, is the delightful small port of Cassis, a sort of Marseillais Saint Tropez. It gets crowded in high season, but visit in the morning to find it at its quietest. ■

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Alamy; Marseille Tourist Board

Explore further. Walk up La Canebière (below), Marseille’s Piccadilly, noting the ornate stone facades of the grand hotels and cafés. Now, they’re all shops, including – on adjacent Cours Belsunce – that of the Alcazar, the most celebrated of the music halls which made Marseille an entertainment rival to Paris up to the 1950s. Detour to another musical emblem, the fine art deco Opera House, surrounded – in

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