WL issue 141

20 years of Wanderlust, 1993-2013

November 2013 | www.wanderlust.co.uk

W IN! AP

In search of the

COM M HOTO I JORDSASION TO £3,000 N OR TURNCTASH! PAGE 12 O NOW! 2

NORTHERN LIGHTS

From Arctic Norway to Iceland – your expert guide

Sri Lanka

Leave the tourist trail to discover the secret north

Botswana

Discover the real Africa with the traditional Bushmen

Alaska

Journey to the USA’s great wilderness for bears and more £3.99

Wanderlust Issue 141 (November 2013) In search of the Northern Lights • Arctic Norway • Iceland • Alaska • Sri Lanka • Botswana • Pocket guides: Iguazú National Park, Reykjavík, Las Vegas

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS IN TRAVEL

+

POCKET GUIDES ✱ Iguazú National Park ✱ Reykjavík ✱ Las Vegas

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World in pictures | News | Go now | World diary | Departures | Guest Column

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Places jostling for our attention this month

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ANTARCTICA

Southern Light Photographer David Neilson

For some of us a trip to Antarctica is a trip of a lifetime, for professional wilderness photographer David Neilson, it became something of a habit. “I was initially drawn to take photographs of the dramatic aspects of the continent: the peaks, the glaciers and the endless icebergs,” says David. “And then, like almost all visitors, I became entranced by the wildlife. With each visit I grew more familiar with the land and the light, and started to see more subtle themes to photograph.” David’s visits are captured in his new book Southern Light (£60) – out now.

Image from Southern Light © 2012 David Neilson. Abbeville Press, New York, NY. Used by permission of the publisher

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Alaska Alaska

I A vast, 1 wildlife-rich, glacier-scoured wilderness I 1 – the truly great outdoors

©

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Fly UK-Anchorage, via Reykjavík; get around by boat, plane, car, kayak, bike and sled 1 1

Jun-Aug – best weather

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Alaska

CLOSE ENOUGH TO

CUDDLE

The big brown bears of Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula don’t seem to mind humans much. And a trip with award-winning guide Simyra Taback-Hlebechuk ensures an intimate encounter...

Words Lyn Hughes Photographs Lyn Hughes and Simon Chubb

Shake a tailfeather Having emerged from a creek, the female bear shakes herself dry

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Alaska

In the drink Alex from Alaska Horsemen outfitters, gives his horse a drink at Cooper Landing; (below) a misty morning kayak at Seward

Watch me fly!

A Coquerel’s sifaka leaps stealthily through the trees, (below); the paradisiacal Anjajavy beach; the owner of Andasibe Hotel

< be in the river, just feet away from the

fishermen. I was in Cooper Landing just before the salmon were due to run, and several bears had been seen in or near the water in the previous few days. I took a gentle raft trip along the Kenai, and saw dozens of bald eagles standing sentinel in the trees, but nothing bigger. However, when we pulled the raft out, my guide revealed, “A bear was right here yesterday evening, just as one of our rafts arrived.”

The next morning I went for a trail ride with local riding outfitter, Alaska Horsemen.

Owner Alex looked like the archetypal backcountry man, straight out of a Marlborough ad. We rode first into picturepostcard Kenai Lake; then he led the way up a steep hillside on narrow, twisting forest tracks, pointing out the different trees and plants. We dismounted in a small clearing and exited the trees to discover a jawdropping view of lake, mountains and forest.

On the way down, I broached the subject of bears, asking Alex if he ever came across them. He answered in the affirmative but clearly wasn’t going to volunteer any anecdotes. “I was told to ask you about a recent experience...?” I ventured.

“Ah, well, I guess that’s the story of how I came across a bear on a moose kill.” The huge brown bear had been surprised, and understandably grumpy, at having an

intruder arrive while it was eating its dinner. It charged Alex on his horse seven times. But the horse hadn’t panicked, and it was the bear that eventually backed off, allowing Alex to continue on his way. “He was trying to protect me,” said Alex, giving his mount a hearty pat.

If you’re happy and you know it...

Even in Anchorage, Alaska’s biggest city by far, living with wildlife goes with the territory: at least 1,500 moose, two brown bears and 30 black bears live within its environs, while other animals come in close at certain times. As an article in the Alaska Dispatch reported: ‘One thing is for certain, as urban as many Alaskans believe Anchorage to be, it’s still bear country’.

While I was visiting there was some controversy about a hiker who’d shot a bear

while on a walking trail to the south of the city; the hiker claimed to have felt under threat. Emotions are stirred whenever such a situation occurs. The fact is that hunting – of bears as well as other wildlife – is big business in the state, something that can come as a shock to non-Americans.

This was the case when I took the iconic Alaska Railroad from Anchorage to Seward.

I was delighted when the train stopped so passengers could admire a moose in a marshy clearing. A woman from the ‘Lower 48’ sitting behind me said, “I can’t believe how excited everyone is. I’d only be excited if I had my rifle with me.” As the train pulled away, her young son – no more than seven years old – ran in from the outdoor viewing deck. “Mom, mom, did you see the moose? If only we’d had our guns!”

Things became even more surreal when our carriage’s enthusiastic young guide exhorted us all to raise our arms and join her in a chorus of ‘If you’re happy and you know it’.

Equilibrium was restored at Seward.

A small but attractive town, it is a base for seeking out the wildlife and glaciers of Resurrection Bay and the Kenai Fjords National Park. I transferred straight onto a bay cruise, spotting bald eagles, two types of puffin, sea otters, sea lions and bow-riding Dall’s porpoises. Whales are frequently seen but we weren’t in luck on this occasion.

It was murky and drizzly the next morning when I rose early and took a taxi to a quiet bay for a kayaking trip. Three generations of a family from Wyoming were my companions, and we swapped nervous chit-chat about our lack of kayaking skills and dubious levels of fitness as we looked out at the low, menacing clouds. Fortunately the water proved relatively calm, there was little else out on the water at this hour, and we started to relax and grin as we sliced through the inky water.

Soon we became aware of several dark shapes gently breaking the surface. A pod of harbour porpoises, including babies, had joined us, and for a few precious minutes we seemed to be moving as one group.

Once the cetaceans had gone, we headed to a beach of black sand, pulled the kayaks up and agreed how magical it had been to be part of the porpoise pod. “I’ve never had a wildlife experience like that!” exclaimed one of my companions. I thought back to the bears – to how close and how intimate my encounters had been. “Well...” I started, but then decided to keep my luck to myself. ■ Lyn Hughes is the founder and Editor-in-Chief of Wanderlust. Follow her on Twitter at @Wanderlust_Lyn.

turn over for Kenai HIghlights PAGE 34

>>

Wanderlust November 2013 | 33

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Alaska Footnotes VITAL STATISTICS

State capital: Juneau State population: 731,500 Languages: English Time: GMT-9 (Apr-Oct GMT-8) International dialling code: +1 Visas: UK nationals eligible to travel under the VISA Waiver Program require an ESTA (Electronic System for Travel Authorisation) before entering the USA. ESTAs cost $14 (valid for two years). Apply at esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta.

Money: US dollar ($), currently $1.56 to the UK£.

Tipping is expected in restaurants, bars and taxis; leave about 15%. Guides appreciate tips too. Credit cards are vital in Alaska: you’ll need one to secure car rentals and hotel bookings.

When to go Jan

Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

■ High season – long days and best weather.

■ Consider beginning or ending your trip to Alaska during the shoulder season – the months of May and September: many outdoor activities are still possible and prices are lower.

■ Winter. Very cold. Many businesses close.

Best time for northern lights viewing and snow fun. February-March are best – more daylight hours.

Health & safety Car collisions with moose are probably the biggest hazard. Be bear aware if you’re in wooded areas on your own; make plenty of noise so that you don’t surprise a bear or moose. Travel here often involves boats and small planes – take motion sickness remedies. Health care is expensive. Make sure you have comprehensive travel insurance – see www.wanderlustinsurance.co.uk.

Further reading & information Alaska (Lonely Planet, 2012); Alaska (Bradt, 2010); travelalaska.com – Official tourist board site; The Alaska App – a useful free guide (www.thealaskaapp.com)

More online Visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/141 for links to more content: Archive articles

The USA’s wildest state – issue 126, Mar 12 4 ways to explore Alaska – issue 82, Oct 06 5 seafood recipes from Alaska – online, 2013

Planning guides

Alaska Guide

The trip The author travelled courtesy of the State of Alaska tourism office (travelalaska.com) and Hallo Bay Bear Camp (hallobay.com). Daytrips to the camp from Homer cost $650pp (£408), including a one-hour flight each way, and four hours of guided bear-viewing. Three-night stays cost $2,700pp (£1,695), including flights from Homer, all meals and guided bear-viewing.

Getting there & around Icelandair (www.icelandair.com) flies from London, Glasgow and Manchester to Anchorage via Reykjavík twice a week in summer, or via Seattle, Vancouver or Chicago at other times. Returns cost from around £700; flight time is from around 12 hours.

Try to sit on the right side of the plane (flying in) for views of Mount McKinley.

Many places are only accessible by plane or boat. Flights link the main hubs; Anchorage to Homer takes 50 mins. Renting a car offers flexibility, but isn’t essential. Driving from Anchorage to Homer takes five hours, to Seward 2.5 hours, to Cooper Landing two hours. Towns sprawl so, without a car, you may need to arrange alternative transport.

Alaska Railroad (www.alaskarailroad.com) runs a Seward-Anchorage service. Journeys take 4.5 hours (though it slows for interesting wildlife) and cost from $79 (£50) one-way.

Cost of travel Alaska is dear. Many travel businesses have only 100 days to earn their year’s income. Petrol is more expensive here than in the rest of the US (but cheaper than UK).

Bear viewing Bears are seen at Hallo Bay throughout high season. They fish for salmon early/late August. Alaska’s mostvisited bear spot is Brooks Falls, also in Katmai NP; it has viewing platforms from EXCLUSIVE VIDEO ONLINE

5 Things I wish I’d known...

1

Alaskans are fishing mad – Locals have freezers full of salmon so prefer halibut or crab when eating out.

2

Alaska sits on the Ring of Fire – There are frequent small earthquakes, occasional larger ones. The 27 March 1964 ’quake caused a devastating tsunami.

3

Flying is a common way to travel – But even if you don’t make a bush plane journey, go flight-seeing.

4 5

Moose kill Be careful if driving.

The weather can hamper your plans – Always allow at least an hour more than you think you need if driving.

which you can watch bears catching salmon (July). In McNeil River Park Sanctuary a lottery system restricts visitor numbers.

Plenty of bear tours are available on Kodiak Island (although many visit Hallo Bay).

Hunting is allowed on Kodiak: animals can be skittish. Bears often gather at falls and other salmon-spawning spots – seek local advice.

Accommodation Copper Whale Inn (Anchorage; copperwhale.com) is close to the Coastal Trail: bikes can be hired from just outside the door. High season doubles from $189 (£119).

Hotel Seward (Seward; hotelsewardalaska. com) is an atmospheric family-run hotel; high season doubles from $109 (£68).

The Hutch B&B is friendly and good value (Cooper Landing; www.arctic.net/~hutch); high season doubles from $95 (£60).

Note, pre-book in high season as places get very busy. If camping, you can hire all you need from REI (rei.com/stores/anchorage).

Food & drink Clam chowder is a speciality. Halibut and salmon feature on most menus, while king crab is usually found in upscale eateries.

Expect imported American staples.

What to pack Take sun care, bug repellent, binoculars and waterproofs (incl trousers). For bear watching you’ll need Wellies (and waders at Hallo Bay) – these can usually be borrowed. ■

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Botswana Botswana

I Meet1 the survivors of the Kalahari: from traditional I 1 Bushmen to super-sized wildlife

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Fly UK-Johannesburg (11hrs), then connect to Gaborone/Maun 1 1

Apr-Nov â&#x20AC;&#x201C; dry season

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Where only the strong survive Dry, but rich in water. Empty, but full of life. Super-sized in every sense, from endless skies to enormous trees. Welcome to the extraordinary salt pans of northern Botswana...

Words & Photographs Graeme Green

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Poised to hunt Bushmen carrying bow bags bag on their backs traverse the arid landscapes of the Makgadikgadi Pans

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Different sorts of bushcraft (clockwise from above) Traditional healer Kgamxoo Tixao gets a fire started using traditional Bushman methods; two large and angry ostriches face off in a desert tiff; a lion stalks its prey in the grassy edges of the pans

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Botswana

Alamy

‘Jackals watched us from dune ridges.

Ground squirrels peeped out from holes.’ < We stopped for lunch under the shade of acacia trees, where Kgamxoo demonstrated how to set a simple but effective snare and how to make fire. He took two sticks, one with a rounded tip that entered a hole in the other, then vigorously spun the sticks until they smoked. “The one that goes in is the male.

The one with the hole is the female,” Xushe said. “Together, they make a baby.” She pointed to the spark that flew into a small pile of dry grass and zebra-dung dust.

Kgamxoo nurtured the spark, blowing until the straw was alight. “Fire plays an important role here,” he added. “You keep a fire going all night to keep animals away.”

Afterwards, they passed around a pipe filled with strong local tobacco and we talked about some of the issues facing the Bushmen.

Traditionally Bushmen were nomadic hunter-gatherers, travelling freely. “There’s a lot of difference between our modern living and the past,” Kgamxoo complained. “There was no governing or regulation, especially in hunting. Now, laws stop hunting.”

“It’s sad for us,” Xushe continued. “It was better to hunt in the old days, but we’ve learnt to accept it.”

I’d read about cases where Bushmen have been forced off land. There have been other big changes, too. All children in Botswana, including the Bushmen, are now legally obliged to go to school; many Bushmen wear Western clothes. As well as telling me about the land, the younger Ju’/hoansi also talked to me about Lady Gaga and whether Wayne Rooney will move to Chelsea. Some of the tribe believe traditional Bushmen will disappear within 50 years. “It might be the last generation,” said Kgamxoo.

We walked on. Xwii Soria, one of the older Bushmen, dug a tuber out of the ground, scraped shavings from it with his spear and squeezed them in his fist, funnelling the water into his mouth. With water hard to come by, this is a life-saving trick.

Xushe sang softly beside me as we made our way back across the plains in the cooling afternoon. I asked her what she thought about the Bushmen’s future.

“I want to keep my traditions and practices.

But for the younger generation, I don’t think so,” she concluded, then sang again, all the way back to camp.

Comparing the meercats Life does have a knack of adapting and surviving in the Kalahari, though, as demonstrated by the pans’ other inhabitants. “People think there’s nothing living in the desert but there’s so much life here,” said Dabe Sebitola, guide and descendent of the Nharo Bushmen with whom I went exploring for several days.

“The Kalahari’s so rich. There’s so much to see out here if you know where to look.”

On the ash-grey pans and surrounding grasslands, we spotted ostrich and wildebeest. Jackals watched us from the dune ridges. Mongooses dashed through the long grass. Ground squirrels peeped out from holes. Elephants ambled slowly across the plains.

Dabe and I set off early one morning for Chapman’s Baobab, reputedly the biggest < Wanderlust November 2013 | 55

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10/10/13 12:30:48

Arctic Norway 1

1

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playground, over-sparkled by I A frozen 1 the Ibest 1northern lights for a decade Fly UK-Oslo (2hrs), then on to Alta or IKirkenes (2hrs). Explore by snowshoe, 1 snowmobile or dog sled 1 Dec-Mar, for best snow and aurora

©

HUNTING THE AURORA

This winter marks the peak of the solar maximum period – and there are few better places to see the dazzling northern lights than Norway’s pristine Arctic extremes Words & Photographs Phoebe Smith

It’s green up north The northern lights come out to play above Alta, in Norway’s Finnmark region

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60 second

I

Guide to the northern lights

n Norway they were the spirits of dancing old maids. The Finns call them revontulet (‘fox fires’), from a fable about a creature sweeping snow skywards with its tail. The Algonquin Indians thought they were Nanahbozho the Creator lighting fires as a reminder of his eternal love.

Myth and mystery have long encircled the aurora borealis. Today, we know their origins are more prosaic. They’re not heroes battling or the torches of the dead but rather the result of atmospheric gases crashing into charged particles from the sun. Blown our way by solar winds, these particles are largely deflected by the earth’s magnetic field. But the field is weaker at the poles, particles sneak in and collisions occur. The result: a celestial spectacular above our planet’s extremes.

Colours vary. Most common is yellow-green, produced by oxygen molecules bumping about 100km up; rarer red displays result from collisions at 300km. But knowing the science almost doesn’t matter: when you see them glimmer for yourself, you’ll still believe in magic.

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Other great places to admire the aurora Sweden

Finland

Where: Abisko, deep in Arctic Sweden, is one of the world’s northern lights hotspots. Set in a rainshadow, it’s Sweden’s driest (and thus most cloud-free) locale, and is well away from any light pollution.

Chairlifts run up Nuolja Mountain to Abisko Sky Station for the best 360° views; you can borrow aurora overalls to keep you warm too. Alternatively, seek out any area of high-latitude Swedish wilderness, away from the towns: perhaps the Tornedalen region (which offers snow-sports aplenty) or the tiny village of Porjus in Unesco-listed Laponia.

When: Possible Sept-Apr. Dec-Feb offers the darkest skies, though there’s often more auroral activity Sept-Oct/Mar-Apr. Most often seen 10pm-11pm.

Where: The Lapland towns of Rovaniemi, Ivalo, Oulu and Kuusamo all have airports, and make excellent launch pads for aurora-watching in the wilds; it’s reckoned there are around 200 auroral displays a year up here. Good spots include cabins on the shores of Lake Inari, the Luosto’s Aurora Chalet (where guests are given ‘aurora alarms’, which beep when the lights appear) and the glassroofed igloos at Hotel Kakslauttanen, where you can gaze up at the aurora while staying toasty in bed.

When: The lights are visible Sept-Apr. According to Dr Esa Turunen of the Sodankylä Geophysical Observatory, “During the most cloud-free weeks of January and February the chances of seeing the lights can be 100% during a three-day stay.”

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Dreamstime

Scotland

Canada

Alaska

Iceland

Where: The aurora does flicker over the UK, albeit unpredictably, and often obscured by cloud. The lights have even been seen in the south of England, but the best bets are the far north, moreremote regions of Scotland, where they call the lights the ‘merry dancers’. Try the Hebrides, where there are few streetlights and the fresh Atlantic winds help keep the skies clear. Or head for the rugged Caithness Coast or the Orkneys, where light pollution is low.

When: January is considered the best month, though sightings are possible throughout autumn-winter.

Lancaster University’s Aurora Watch UK offers a service where you can sign up for alerts by either Twitter, SMS or email when activity is likely: aurorawatch.lancs.ac.uk/alerts

Where: The Great White North has no shortage of prime boreal wilderness in which to aurora-watch. Some areas of northern Alberta proclaim a 90% success rate for seeing the lights while the vast Yukon is another good region. In Yellowknife, you can get a daily forecast for the aurora activity: astronomynorth.com.

In Whitehorse, there’s an Aurora Centre (good views, plus an interpretation centre) while, 40 minutes away, the cabins at Lake Laberge offer a cosy, unpolluted gazing retreat. Other options include Dawson (Yukon) and Flin Flon, Grand Rapids and Churchill (all Manitoba).

When: Sept-Apr. Most displays occur close to astronomical midnight.

Where: The town of Fairbanks is an excellent aurora compromise. There are more northerly spots – Coldfoot, Fort Yukon, Prudhoe – that see more frequent displays, but Fairbanks still has a high aurora hit-rate and is far more accessible. Also, the northern lights tend to be brighter and more active the farther south they occur, so you might get a more exciting show. Ester Dome, just outside Fairbanks, offers particularly great views of the northern horizon.

When: Sept-Apr; Feb-Mar is best for dark skies and combining lights-hunting with daytime activities.

Where: If you get away from the lights of Reykjavík, then Iceland – situated in one of the most active auroral regions – offers some great sky-gazing.

The country is well set up for it too. For example, Hotel Rangá in the island’s rural south is run by a northern lights expert; staff will wake you if the displays are good. It’s also possible to consult the Icelandic Met Office (en.vedur. is/weather/forecasts/aurora) for an aurora forecast (graded 0-9, 9 being maximum activity) and a cloud-cover forecast, so you can focus your search on areas where the skies will be most clear.

When: Sept-Apr. Avoid days either side of the full moon.

The southern lights Same phenomenon, different pole: the aurora australis is the southern equivalent of the northern lights.

They are much harder to see simply because there are fewer landmasses close to the South Pole, and Antarctic cruises – which sail into prime territory – run only during the bright austral summer months when skies aren’t dark

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enough for sightings. To see the southern lights sparkle, you need to be around during the chilly months (Mar-Sept).

One of the best places to try to glimpse them is Stewart Island, New Zealand; its Maori name, Rakiura, translates as ‘glowing skies’, possibly a reference to the aurora. Head to Stewart in winter for long hours of darkness; the island is sparsely populated, so it’s easier to get away from streetlights and enjoy unpolluted skies.

South Georgia is a good option, though only really accessible during the austral summer months; you might be lucky enough to see the lights on a March visit.

The Falkland Islands, though further north, do experience auroral activity and are easier to visit during the key Apr-Sept period. Ushuaia, Argentina – the world’s southernmost city – is a possibility, though is prone to cloud: you need a little luck to see the lights sparkle here.

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Sri Lanka

NORTHERN

SOUL

The people of Sri Lanka’s Jaffna District are a resilient lot. Post civil war, they’re opening up their idyllic beaches, tiny isles and urging you to visit

Words & Photographs Nick Boulos 88 | Wanderlust November 2013

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Sri Lanka

(LTTE), who were fighting for an independent state. More than 100,000 people lost their lives; many more were displaced. It’s thought that half of the 600,000 people living in the Northern Province’s Jaffna District – a slither of land anchored to the mainland by a spindly causeway – fled the country.

A lot has changed since those dark days.

With the declaration of peace came hope and a new lease of life for the locals who’d abandoned their homes. The Northern Province has been reborn. Many people have returned, turning to tourism to rebuild their lives. Hotels and homestays are springing up, military bases have been transformed into wildlife parks and nature resorts, and former battlefields are now family-friendly seaside getaways. Individuals who once fired bullets are revelling in newfound careers as tour guides – a turn of events many never dared dream about.

LOCAL VIEW

Sam Ratnaraj, retired lawyer “The world sympathises with the Tamil people and there’s still a long way to go. Many people here want semi-autonomy.”

“The north is unchartered territory, the people are resilient and they welcome change,” Sid declared, defiantly. “It’s high time people moved away from the war stories and focused on everything that makes this place so special.”

More than war The next morning I woke to the mellifluous bells of Nallur temple chiming across the rooftops. Sid was right. Jaffna was indeed a lively place. Upon first glance it seemed like any other city on the subcontinent: loud and proud, chaotic and exotic. The beating of drums and honking of horns added to the complex cacophony. Weaving through the traffic were holy men in billowing white robes and ladies in bright saris with plaits down to their waists.

But these streets were far from ordinary.

Beyond the markets, the technicolour temples and the striking 17th-century fort (scene of a 107-day siege in 1990) stood the ruins of war. There were buildings scarred with bulletholes, walls blasted out, ceilings long since caved in.

Jaffna’s imperial railway station is a shell of its former splendour. Built in 1902, it was bombed in 1990; the railway line was also destroyed, further isolating Jaffna from the rest of the country. The tracks are now >

Previous spread Getty

F

riday night in downtown Jaffna and the streets were deathly quiet. Only the cows were out, sauntering down the middle of the unlit roads like they owned the place, while a few figures moved sinisterly in the shadows. It was as though trouble was brewing and, for the briefest of moments, I wondered whether I’d travelled back in time.

My guide, Sid – short for Sidantha – was quick to reassure me. “It’s usually really lively but everyone’s in the Nallur temple for puja,” he said, breaking the eerie silence.

For nearly three bloody decades, however, this had been the sad reality of life in Sri Lanka’s northernmost city: only the bravest ventured out after dark. This was Tamil Tiger territory and much-besieged Jaffna felt the full force of the country’s devastating civil war.

The Tamil dynasty ruled this area for 400 years until the Portuguese arrived in the 16th century. However, it was gaining independence from the British Empire in 1948 that sparked tensions between the Tamil and Sinhalese communities. From 1983 to 2009, war raged between the army and the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam 90 | Wanderlust November 2013

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Iceland

winter’s tails Icelandic winters might be chilly but they’re far from lifeless – indeed, it’s the best season to spot feeding orcas, plus dazzling ducks and, with luck, the northern lights Words & Photographs William Gray

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Iceland > that orcas show four main types of

behaviour: resting, socialising, feeding and travelling. The oncoming pod was clearly on the move.

Soon they were surfacing either side of the Láki, their black backs glinting in the sunlight like pebbles of polished lava.

Occasionally, we glimpsed a flash of white cheek or a grey saddle stripe. It was so calm that every time an orca surfaced, it dabbled in its own reflection. The air pulsed with their blows – soft explosions of breath that beat a strange percussion with the gently thudding engine of the Láki and the staccato ripple of cameras firing.

Two large males dominated the pod, their 1.8m-tall dorsal fins towering above those of the females and juveniles. I tracked them through the viewfinder of my camera, hardly daring to breathe when I realised they were about to surface with Kirkjufell as a backdrop and the sea like molten silver. For a brief moment, orca, mountain and ocean were framed in a single compelling view.

Light fantastic Back at the harbourside Hotel Framnes – our base in Grundarfjörður – Alexa placed

a small orange sticker on a map hanging in the lobby.

Judging by the rash of similar spots it had been an excellent winter for orca sightings.

The killer whales congregate in Breiðafjörður – the large bay that separates the Snæfellsnes Peninsula from the Westfjords – to feed on vast shoals of herring that overwinter there between October and March.

“The orcas use a unique herding call,” Alexa told us during a cetacean seminar that evening. “The low-frequency sound causes the herring to bunch together. The killer whales then stun them with a tail slap before picking them off one at a time, sometimes spitting out their heads if they’re feeling picky.”

She went on to explain that although orcas are present year-round in Icelandic waters, it’s only during winter that you can observe them feeding close inshore. It’s not uncommon, she said, to see them from the hotel.

I glanced outside, half expecting to see a dorsal fin break the surface, silver herring

scattering before a black and white snout crammed with 10cm-long teeth. No whales, but plenty of eider ducks, I noticed happily.

Drifting into a wildfowl reverie, I was jolted back to Alexa’s slideshow by a startling, slightly eerie image of Kirkjufell swathed in luminescent green ribbons. Orcas are not the only natural wonders on show during an Icelandic winter – the aurora borealis does its best to outshine them.

Late that night I was woken by a loud knocking on my bedroom door. Just as the Láki had its orca spotters, Hotel Framnes had aurora lookouts. The northern lights had been sighted and soon the hotel corridors were bustling with guests grappling with camera tripods. It felt like a warship brought to battle stations.

Outside, we craned our necks skywards but clouds were already snuffing out the green blush over Breiðafjörður. We would try again the following night, Alexa told us. In the meantime however, we should get some sleep before our big day out on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. >

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Iceland

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‘The road grappled with old lava flows, which spread from the great volcano in a primeval plain of basalt and cinder, charred and blistered like burnt soufflé’

Treading carefully A partly frozen lake on the south side of the Snaefellsnes Peninsula

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First 24 hours

LAS VEGAS USA Strip search Las Vegas is an overload of light, noise and kitsch

Where? South-west USA Why? With year-round sunshine, the finest food and outlandish architecture, Vegas is unashamedly OTT on almost every level When? Spring/autumn for milder temperatures

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istockphoto; Shutterstock

Before you arrive Since its founding in the early 20th century, Las Vegas – known as Sin City – has grown to become America’s favourite playground.

Now excessive and extravagant – and proudly so – the Vegas area was once known only to Native Americans. The Mormons arrived in the 1850s but the town didn’t take shape until 1905, following the opening of the San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad.

Today, Vegas is a big, brash metropolis, appearing like a neon mirage out of Nevada’s dusty deserts and mountains. The main action is found along the 7km section of Las Vegas Boulevard, known as ‘the Strip’.

However, though it may be famed for its gambling and raucous nightlife, it’s not entirely without culture. Place a bet on Vegas and you may discover there’s more to it than slot machines and stag parties.

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Welcome to the most fabulous city on earth!

Nick Boulos helps you navigate the neon, meet the Mob, stroll the Strip and – finally – escape into the great US wilderness beyond

At the airport

quick and easy. Several shuttle Remember to secure travel companies, including SuperShuttle authorisation at least 72 hours before (www.shuttlelasvegas.com), operate departing for the US (via ESTA: esta. services to all the major hotels. A cbp.dhs.gov). It’s also advisable to return journey costs $13 (£8); journey carry details of your flight and hotel time is 15-20 minutes. Tickets can be booking when clearing immigration. purchased at the counter in the Flights land at McCarran arrivals hall. Upgrade to a private International Airport, 8km south chauffeur driven car for $38 (£24). of the city centre. Direct flights from A taxi to the Strip will cost from $15 the UK take around ten hours; (£9) and is available directly returns cost from £565. outside the terminal.

The international Alternatively, catch the arrivals hall in shiny inter-terminal shuttle When flying into Vegas, new Terminal 3, (every 12-15mins) to book a seat on the right for good views of the which opened in Terminal 1; public Strip. Those on the left 2012, has a small buses 108 and 109 should spot the Hoover information stand, leave from here Dam, about 15 minutes an ATM and a currency (www.rtcsnv.com). before landing. exchange booth.

They travel close to but not along the Strip, which Getting into town might mean a long walk to The airport’s close proximity to your accommodation. One-way fares the city centre means the transfer is cost $2 (£1.25).

TOP TIP

Other ways to arrive Las Vegas is linked to most major US cities by domestic flights.

For years there’s been talk of building a rail line between Las Vegas and Los Angeles, 435km south-west; there are still no concrete plans. Buses do to link the two, though; Greyhound has regular departures to LA (6hrs; www.greyhound.com), plus many other US destinations.

Interstate 15 runs through Vegas, heading north-east towards Salt Lake City in Utah (6hrs) or towards California in the opposite direction. <

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Wanderlust Pocket Guides <

LAS VEGAS ORIENTATION

Embrace the razzmatazz, then leave to explore iconic US landscapes

Population: 590,000 Language: English Timezone: GMT-8 (Mar-Nov GMT-7) International dialling code: +1 Visas: UK nationals must obtain an ESTA (Electronic System for Travel Authorization; $14; esta.cbp.dhs.gov). at least 72 hours before travel.

Currency: US dollar ($), currently around $1.58 to the UK£.

Highest viewpoint: The best views are from the Stratosphere Casino, Hotel & Tower’s observation deck (www.stratospherehotel.com), located 300m above the Strip.

Health issues: The biggest worries heat and sunstroke.

Recommended guidebooks: Las Vegas (Time Out, 2012); Las Vegas (Rough Guides, 2011).

USA Las Vegas

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First night’s sleep

istockphoto

]Top end: One of the newest hotels in town is the swanky Aria (below; 3730 Las Vegas Blvd Sth; arialasvegas. com). Rooms boast panoramic city

First day’s tour

Start at the Neon Boneyard (770 Las Vegas Blvd Nth; $18 [£11]; neonmuseum. org; ) to see a collection of historic signs 40 400 that once shone brightly from Vegas’s most famous establishments.

30 300 Then hit the fascinating Mob Museum (300 Stewart Ave; $20 [£12]; 20 200 themobmuseum.org), which charts the rise of the US gangster and the 10 100 dark days when they ruled Vegas.

Continue south to the heart of the 0 0 Strip (which is almost 7km long) and JFMAMJJASOND ■ Rainfall (average) Temperature (average high) tour the world in an afternoon. Start at the Egypt-themed Luxor Hotel (3900 Web resources: The website of Las Vegas Blvd Sth; luxor.com) and the Las Vegas tourist board move on to Manhattan replica, New (www.visitlasvegas.co.uk) is York New York Hotel & Casino (3790 comprehensive; Discover America Las Vegas Blvd Sth; newyorknewyork. (www.discoveramerica.com) has com). Don’t miss a gondola ride at the lots of useful info on the area.

Venetian Resort (3355 Las Vegas Blvd App: Pocket Guide Las Vegas Sth; venetian.com), which comes (free; pocketguideapp.com) has complete with its own ‘Rialto Bridge’. handy maps and info Across the road is the on most sights.

Bellagio Hotel (3600 Climate: Arid with Las Vegas Blvd Sth; little rain, Las Vegas bellagio.com). Visit enjoys more than its Gallery of Fine Thieves have been 320 sunny days Art to see works by targeting female toilets. a year. Summers They are reaching over cubical doors and swiping are sweltering handbags that are hanging (July sees highs on the door hook while of 41°C) while the victim is on winters can be the loo. surprisingly nippy, with temperatures dipping as low as 4°C in January.

50

˚C

mm 500

LADIES BEWARE!

views, luxurious beds and all mod-cons. There’s also a spa, pools, and, hanging from the ceiling in the lobby, a striking art installation of giant technicolour butterflies.

Doubles from $149 (£94), room only. ]Mid range: Offering a more intimate alternative to most Vegas accommodation is the designfocused all-suite Rumor Boutique Hotel (455 East Harmon Ave; rumorvegas.com). Located 1.5km away from the Strip, the property is bold with eclectic art throughout and a nice palm-fringed pool in which to cool off. Doubles from $99 (£62), room only. ] Budget: The 155-room Carriage House Hotel (105 East Harmon Ave; carriagehouselasvegas.com) is a centrally located and casino-free Vegas option. Comfy rooms have small kitchenettes (microwave, fridge, utensils) and free Wi-Fi. Doubles from $89 (£56), room only.

renowned artists; the current Andy Warhol exhibition ($16 [£10]) runs until January 2014. Pause outside to see the Bellagio fountains (above). Set to music and lights, the fountains perform every 15-30 minutes between 3pm (12noon, Sat-Sun) and midnight.

Dine at Twist, on the 23rd floor of the Mandarin Oriental (3752 Las Vegas Blvd Sth; mandarinoriental.com), for innovative food with twinkling views.

Then venture out to get a photo by that famed ‘Welcome to Fabulous Las Vegas’ sign (5100 Las Vegas Blvd Sth).

And if you’ve got any cash left, well, if only there was a way of losing it here...

Stay or go?

Linger a little. Las Vegas has plenty to keep you entertained for a couple of days – as long as you’re not afraid of a bit of bling. However, it may be wise to bid farewell before you lose too much money on the blackjack table.

Sin City’s biggest appeal is its proximity to many of America’s greatest natural wonders, most famously the Grand Canyon (above), 450km away. Day tours by air are available but it’s tempting to continue from the Canyon, hit the open road and explore the expansive deserts and national parks of Utah (www. goutah.co.uk). Hike among the pastel-coloured rock formations of

Bryce Canyon or ride horses across Monument Valley, which is dotted with those towering buttes made so famous by John Ford’s Westerns.

Alternatively, head west into California (www.visitcalifornia.co.uk).

The Golden State’s Death Valley National Park is a two-hour drive from Vegas. It’s officially the world’s hottest place – a sweltering temperature of 56.7°C was recorded here in July 1913.

Discover the secrets of the native Timbisha tribe and visit the mysterious ‘sailing stones’ – boulders that seem to slide across the parched desert floor. It’s a phenomenon that has puzzled geologists for decades. ■

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Essential info

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