Wanderlust March issue 2011

Wanderlust Issue 118 (March 2011) Travel Photos of the Year • Travel Awards 2011 • Marrakech • Satpura, India • Utah, USA • Suriname • South Korea • Pocket guides: Córdoba, Beijing, Antrim Coast

ADVENTURE / WILDLIFE / DISCOVERY ➸ THE TRAVEL AWARDS ISSUE

March 2011 | £3.99 | www.wanderlust.co.uk

Marrakech The essential city guide –

by Wanderlust readers

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Travel Photos of the Year 20 pages of incredible images

India’s tigers Get up close on a walking safari

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THE FUTURE Like this map? To buy MAPPING a similar wall map, visit COMPANY www.futuremaps.co.uk

110 Travel awards

Suriname

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South Korea

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Contents MARCH 2011 • ISSUE 118

360°

Navigator

8 | World in pictures

89 | Skills

Witness Icelandic eruptions, tribal Ethiopia and the timeless Giza Sphinx

14 | Shortcuts

Amazing trips to Ontario, Canada | 100 Tulum, Mexico | 120

91 | Gear

The world’s travel news: China’s first capsule hotel, Iraq’s tourism plans

The key kit for going hand-luggage only

16 | Go Now!

Take better shots of travel icons

Fly low-cost to Amman, Jordan

WIN!

How to swim with whale sharks, plan a cycle trip and not get leeched

18 | 10 things to do for free in...

Bargain tips for fun in Buenos Aires

92 | Photo tips 94 | Health

How to prevent and treat Delhi belly

96 | Q&A

20 | Trips to take... festivals

Your questions answered, on everything from malaria to Madrid

From the road

Arrivals

Ten trips to the planet’s best parties

122 | Books

47 | Ripping yarn

Three readers follow some of the world’s most fractious fault-lines on a ground-breaking road trip

48 | Letters etc

Emails, blogs, photos and ramblings from around the world – get in touch to win Páramo gear

53 | The world according to…

“I like to think I’m the kind of guy to shack up with cockroaches – but I’m not...”

Musings from Colin Thubron, Freya Stark, Jan Morris – plus, win free books!

124 | Guides & apps

Packing preparation, reading on the road

125 | Music

The French-Algerian songstress who’s taking the world by storm

126 | World diary

The best March festivals worldwide

127 | What’s On: UK

Kate Humble’s spicy adventures

Features 22 | Utah, USA

32 Satpura, India

Raft the Colorado River, mountain-bike over red rock trails, hike amid hoodoos and drive canyon rims – welcome to the USA’s most adventurous state

32 | Satpura, India Lush and lovely Satpura National Park is the first tiger reserve in India to offer walking safaris – but is it any good? We pull on our boots and investigate...

54 | On assignment: Marrakech, Morocco: We took 19 Wanderlust readers to find the best eats, sleeps and sights in Morocco’s most magical city – read their tips and see their photos

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64 | Suriname Author John Gimlette delves into the jungle to meet the tribes of littleknown Latin America

74 | Photo of the Year 2010 Check out the stunning batch of winners from our annual photo comp

102 | South Korea 4am? Meditation time! Mix templestays with gun-guarded borders and 21st-century style in South Korea

110 | 2011 Travel Awards The results are in! The places, people, planes, trains and more that you loved last year (and a few you didn’t...)

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Iceland

Heaven & hell Wanderlust Photo of the Year, Portfolio winner James Appleton “This is the grand view – an erupting volcanic fissure, the very entrance to hell, backed by the heavenly flowing lights of the aurora borealis. I had this shot in my head as my perfect, imagined image as I flew out to Iceland, well aware of what I was about to photograph. But I never dreamed that it would all come together. Everything just fell into place – all I had to do was be there and not miss the opportunity to record such a spectacular meeting of natural wonders…”

To see more of James’s photographs, as well as the rest of the Wanderlust Photo of the Year winners, turn to page 74 or go to www.wanderlust.co.uk/awards

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World in pictures | News | Go now | Things to do for free | Departures

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I I I

Places jostling for our attention this month

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4/2/11 10:51:35

HOODOO MAGIC Weird geology, wild rivers, tight canyons and epic roads – Utah is the place for a rocking self-drive adventure

Words & pictures Graeme Green

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Utah, USA

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rogress was slow.

The wall of red rock pressed tight against my chest, another hard against my back, making it difficult to move. The cold water lining the canyon floor was waist deep.

“Forwards on, canyoneers,” came the encouraging call from Rick, our guide, at the back. “It’s about to get real pretty up here.”

I emptied my lungs of air for the extra inch of space it gave me and stretched an arm out, dragging my body by the fingertips through the narrow slot canyon and towards the thin strip of blue sky overhead.

The canyon water seeped out of my boots onto the rock of the Escalante Desert. True to Rick’s word, the tight slot had opened out into a winding corridor of striped red, pink and black rock, with smooth curves and ridges that had been sculpted by year-uponyear of water flow. It was like crawling around a giant artwork, Utah’s speciality being rock studies in colour, light and form.

Canyoneering was getting us right up close to the desert’s rock formations. It was a test of agility and strength, but also a mental challenge: plotting a course up, through, under or over the tight spots and big drops, and then seeing if the body is equal to the idea.

The challenge is not without risk. It was in canyons like these that climber Aron Ralston became trapped in 2003 while canyoneering alone in Blue John Canyon, near Moab –

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around 170km north-east from Escalante.

Ralston famously spent five days at the bottom of a narrow slot canyon, his right arm pinned against the wall by a 360kg boulder that became dislodged while he was climbing. Fatigued, starving, dehydrated and knowing his chances of being rescued were slim (particularly because he hadn’t told anyone where he was going), he took the drastic last option available to free himself and save his own life: cutting off his own arm with a dull knife and a pair of pliers. He then rappelled down a 20m wall and hiked 10km through the desert to be rescued.

Ralston’s 127-hour ordeal, now the subject of Slumdog Millionaire-director Danny Boyle’s acclaimed new film, has made him famous around the world. But it certainly hasn’t made him a local hero here in Utah. “He knew the rule: you don’t go out on your own without telling anybody where you’re going,” one resident told me.

“People think it’s rather odd for someone

who did something so stupid to get so much notoriety for it.”

Out in the canyons, you realise what a big mistake Ralston made. The wilderness is so vast and filled with hidden cracks, canyons, caves and overhangs that to be searching for a person without any idea of their location makes finding them virtually impossible. But the other thing you quickly understand here is the powerful draw of this Dalí-esque desert landscape, stretching out to the horizon in all directions with a panoply of buttes, mesas, mountains, canyons, fins, hoodoos, spires, towers, boulders and other bizarre colourful sandstone creations. An outdoor enthusiast’s paradise, it calls out to be explored.

Big skies, open roads I’d come here to drive a loop around southwest Utah’s numerous national parks, to experience the state’s weird and wonderful geological features. My starting point, though, was Salt Lake City, the state’s laidback capital and global HQ for the Mormon Church (or The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints), with Temple Square the spiritual heart of the city. The Mormons came here in 1847, led by the controversial ‘Mormon Moses’ Brigham Young who declared, “This is the right place,” after a 1,600km exodus across the desert.

The state is still predominantly Mormon, and they exert a strong conservative influence on local politics, business and culture. But Utah’s far more welcoming than the dry, dour image many visitors might >

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2/2/11 18:28:52

WITHIN A WHISKER Tracking tigers on foot is a thrilling new twist on the usual Indian safari – whether or not you actually see stripes…

Words William Gray

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think the tigers heard us coming. Brittle, plate-sized teak leaves shattered beneath our feet as we scrunched through the tinder-dry forests of Satpura National Park. We might as well have been walking on poppadoms. I wasn’t sure whether our noisy progress would scare away any big cats in the area or ring their dinner bell. I hoped it was the former.

Our park ranger seemed only to be armed with a two-litre bottle of water.

“If a tiger charges, never turn and run – they’ll treat you as prey,” explained my guide, Anante Erickson, an enigmatic 26year-old naturalist and the manager of Forsyth’s Lodge, where I was based for a week. “In most cases they’ll run away.”

I won’t keep you in suspense: we didn’t see a tiger. Not even a whisker.

Disappointed? I hope not. You see, strange as it may seem, I hadn’t travelled to Satpura with the sole aim of seeing tigers. Sure, it’s a national park and one of India’s acclaimed tiger reserves, but the stars in stripes are so elusive here that even Anante has rarely seen one.

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Tiger safari Delhi

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So why, you may ask, is Satpura suddenly stamping its mark on India’s safari circuit?

What is it about this little-known park (a three-hour drive from Bhopal in Central India) that’s beginning to lure a steady trickle of visitors? After all, an Indian safari is, first and foremost, all about spotting tigers isn’t it? I mean, who goes to Churchill if not to see polar bears, or to Rwanda without gorillas firmly in their sights?

Whether it’s Africa’s big five, a top predator or a cute-and-cuddly, wildlife tourism cashes in on a relatively select group of species – the ‘must-sees’, the ‘last-chanceto-sees’, the ‘have-you-seens’. Trouble is, many of our favourite wildlife travel pin-ups are either becoming increasingly scarce or

you have to pay a hefty premium to enjoy the privilege (gorilla-tracking permits are a chest-pounding $500 per person).

Satpura intrigued me because it bucks the trend. It almost plays down the tiger. A sign near the park entrance prepares you for a likely non-sighting: ‘You may not have seen me, but I have seen you,’ reads the slogan beneath a fading image of a tiger staring through peeling paint.

Rather than persisting with the blinkered view that an Indian safari without a tiger sighting is some kind of failure, Satpura has done something rather special and unique.

Largely inspired by Hashim Tyabji, the enlightened owner of Forsyth’s Lodge, it is the first reserve in India to offer the full Indian safari experience: game walks, boat trips, elephant-back rides, birdwatching ambles, nocturnal hides, visits to local communities and, yes, jeep safaris – but not the seat-clutching rally circuits you often get in other more-popular parks where drivers seem hell-bent on getting a tiger tick for their clients.

Pausing for a break in the crispbread forest, Anante and I crouched next to a game trail scribbled with the haphazard graffiti of a foraging troop of langur monkeys. >

This page Chital (spotted deer) enliven a dawn walking safari Opposite In Satpura you explore on foot or elephant-back, spotting chameleons, sloth bear tracks, gaur bison and langur monkeys feasting on flame-of-the-forest leaves

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2/2/11 15:09:27

reader assignment:

Marrakech Morocco’s Red City is an exotic, sensory overload – so who better to guide you through it than Wanderlust readers? 19 of you signed up to compile our real travellers’ Top 5 guide…

All words & pictures by Wanderlust readers (see p57), travelling in November 2010

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Marrakech Top 5 places to stay

Top 5 historical gems

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Maison MK (www.maisonmk.com) is one of Morocco’s most sumptuous boutique hotels. The central pool is surrounded by intimate places to relax, while the en suite bedrooms are fitted with everything a guest could need, including mobile phones for those who get lost in the souks. Rooms from €350 (£295).

Central but budget-friendly, Riad Marrakiss (www.marrakiss.com) is a classic riad with its own rooftop terrace. Rooms have en suite bathrooms; there’s also air-con and WiFi. Rooms from €35 (£29).

Small and charming Riad Miski (www.riadmiski.com) is in a quiet area less than ten minutes’ walk from the main square. Rooms are comfortable and beautifully decorated in oriental tones. The French owners (one speaks English) are extremely helpful. Dinner is excellent (200 DH); meals are served on a delightful roof terrace. Argan-oil massages come recommended.

Rooms from €49 (£41).

For sumptuous colonial rooms with the fluffiest towels imaginable, try Al Fassia Aguedal (www.alfassiaaguedal.com). Situated outside the city walls, it has 27 airy rooms, ranging in architectural styles from Arabo-AndalucÍan to Berber. It feels like a riad but with hotel facilities, including a pool, open fires, lounges and an upstairs bar like something out of PG Wodehouse. Rooms from €150 (£126).

Welcoming and immaculately renovated, Riad Adore (www.riadadore.com) is traditional in style but with contemporary touches (including excellent showers). It’s well placed for both the Medina and the restaurants, bars and shops of Gueliz, in the New Town.

Rooms from €140 (£118).

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The Medersa The zellij-tiled façades of Ben Youssef Medersa housed Islamic students up until 1962

Built in the late 19th century by a powerful Grand Vizier, the beautiful Bahia Palace’s name translates as ‘brilliant’: the walls are covered with marvellous zellij (mosaic tilework), calligraphy and stucco. It’s a labyrinth of rooms and courtyards complete with palms and fountains – an Arabian Nights idyll.

Open daily, 8.45am-11.45am and 2.45pm-5.50pm; 10dh (75p).

The storks are the inheritors of El Badi Palace: their cumbersome nests adorn the ancient walls of this once splendid building. Built by Sultan Ahmed el-Mansur in the 16th century, it was looted 100 years later. Nowadays the remnants are a mournful reminder of past glories. Open daily 8.30am11.45am and 2.30-5.45pm; 10dh (75p).

The striking decorations in the Ben Youssef Medersa bear strong similarities to Granada’s Alhambra.

Marrakech’s Islamic school was rebuilt by the Saadians in the 1560s; it’s assumed they brought Andalucían artists over to produce the exquisite stucco and zellij. Open daily, 9am-7pm (6pm Oct-Mar); 40dh (£3), 60dh (£4.50) combined with Musée de Marrakech.

The Musée de Marrakech resides in a former 19th-century palace: contemporary Moroccan art is housed in the former kitchens and there are displays of traditional jewellery, coins, daggers and costumes. However, these are eclipsed by the building itself, especially the magnificent courtyard.

Open daily, 9am-6pm; 40dh (or 60dh combined, see above).

Hidden down a narrow passage off the rue de la Kasbah, the Saadian Tombs are the final resting place of Sultan Ahmed el-Mansur.

The entrances were sealed off around 1630, not rediscovered until 1917.

Much of the original splendour has gone, but bygone grandeur can still be sensed. Open daily 8.30am11.45am and 2.30pm-5.45pm; 10dh

2 meet a local

Abdoel Fattah, food stand 97 “Visit the Ourika Valley – it’s very romantic. There are waterfalls, birds singing, cafés and restaurants – and the best Berber couscous. You can take a grand taxi or the bus there, but the taxi is more comfortable.”

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2/2/11 11:41:30

the lost tribes Deep in the South American rainforest live six remarkable African tribes, hidden away since 1674.

John Gimlette travelled upriver in Suriname to meet them

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Suriname

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brazil boat crew hardly acknowledged our presence and, at the tribe’s guesthouse – on a pretty little island called Awarradam – the manager had left a message saying he was too busy to see us. That left only the cooks to register our arrival, which they did by bursting into song. Clearly the entertaining of baccras (whites) was considered menial work.

Perhaps I shouldn’t have been surprised.

Writing in 1929, an early anthropologist had said of the Saramaka, “While they are not inhospitable, one feels one is being tolerated rather than welcomed…”

All this needs a little explaining.

The Saramaka are part of a vast runaway society, and their story began in 1674. That year, England surrendered its Surinamese colony, ‘Willoughbyland’, to the Dutch (in return for New York). As the English left they released their slaves into the jungle and, a few years later, there was a massive revolt, freeing hundreds more. Although the slaves hailed from all over West Africa, they reformed into tribes, united by the language of slavery, Talkie-Talkie. To some, they were known as ‘maroons’, from the Spanish word cimarrón, meaning ‘wild or untamed cattle’.

But to the Dutch, they were the Bosnegers (bush negroes), a name that survives today.

Over the next 70 years, more runaways joined them, and soon they threatened the very existence of Suriname. Outnumbered 20-to-one, the Dutch were forced to rule by fear. The maroons call this ‘The Age of Heroes’, although it was really just an age of mutilation. Eventually, the Dutch realised that the maroons couldn’t be defeated but could be bought, or ‘pacified’, and so vast tracts of the jungle were harmlessly signed away. In effect, the maroons would run the interior, and the Dutch the coast. >

Previous spread: John Gimlette. This spread: John Gimlette ; Jan Baks/Alamy; Anup Shah/Getty

Rainforest refuge

Atlantic Ocean

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ravel is a violation of the natural order, or at least that’s what the Saramaka believe.

From the moment we entered their secret world, I realised things would be different. Our little group – mainly Dutch expatriates – had already flown 270km inland across the Surinamese forest.

From above it had looked like densely packed broccoli, split apart by hundreds of rivers. Now we were riding through the heart of Saramaka territory in an enormous dugout canoe, and yet the place seemed empty. The banks were bare, the jungle was dense and there was not a hut to be seen. But we knew we’d arrived. We could hear the drums and occasionally a hunter would paddle into view, his canoe laden with monkeys and toucans.

I loved my week among the Saramaka but never for a moment did I feel I understood them. All property was owned by women and everyone was casually armed. The men wore togas and carried rifles while the women wore tight chequered wraps, stuffed with babies and knives. It was an eerie society and everyone ignored us. Even our

2/2/11 14:36:17

TRAVEL PHOTOS OF THE YEAR 2010

This year saw another extraordinary collection of photographs land in Wanderlust’s letterbox, capturing the wild, the raw and the beautiful.

Judging was as tough as ever, but finally four amateur category winners were chosen, each earning a commission to Australia’s Northern Territory.

One remarkable portfolio collection also wins a £3,000 prize.

On the next 14 pages, we showcase the finalists – view them all, and more, at: www.wanderlust.co.uk/magazine/awards/photo-of-the-year/photos

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The judges

ICON CATEGORY RUNNER-UP

q Wrangler and ranch horses, New Mexico, USA

Lisa Mardell, communications manager “Late evening light and dust help create the atmosphere in this image.”

Canon EOS 7D, 70-200 f2.8 lens @ 200mm, 1/320 sec @ f11, ISO 200

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DESTINATIONS 2011 Catherine Thake and Michelle Kyles THE INDEPENDENT Simon Calder TOURISM NT Fleur Burrows and Suzanne Holiday NIKON Jenny Grace PROFESSIONAL PHOTOGRAPHERS Steve Davey, Paul Goldstein & Paul Harris WANDERLUST Lyn Hughes Administrator: Hazel Plush Thanks to Tourism NT and Nikon for providing fantastic prizes, and to the Destinations 2011 team and The Independent for their support

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Avoid the obvious Don’t just shoot things from the obvious angle.

Whether it’s a person, object or the even the Taj Mahal, you can always walk around your subject to get a different view. With the Taj, some of the best views are from across the Yamuna River (although the Indian authorities have now decided that barbed wire makes a better foreground).

Nikon F5, Velvia 50ASA film, 17-35mm lens, exposure not noted

Capturing the classics How do you make something special out of the over-familiar? As we reveal the results of our Photo of the Year competition (p74), Steve Davey helps you capture the world’s icons on camera udging the Icon category of the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year, we see many creative images of some of the world’s great monuments.

We also see our share of fairly dull, representational photos and a lot of ‘there’s-no-othercategory-to-enter-it-in-so-I’llcall-it-an-icon’ shots... So what makes a winning icon image?

When I got started in this game, 25 years ago, it was a lot

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easier. Quite simply, fewer people had travelled to those far-flung places, so if you wanted to impress someone with your icon photography, all you really had to do was go there and hit click.

Now it seems that everyone has travelled to the same places.

Show someone your belowaverage snaps of Mali’s Grand Mosque of Djenne and they’re probably thinking, ‘Fine, but Great Aunt Gertrude took a better one last year’.

The best way to avoid returning with endless dull shots of the world’s iconic monuments is to stop and think about how to try to photograph things in a different way. Previsualise the image before you rush in. Look for different angles; shoot from different places; stop to think about how you could present your icon in a way that will stand out.

It’s also worth being perverse: try to avoid times when icons will be swamped. Not only will

you avoid getting lots of other people in your shots, but the light may be better. Most people turn up after a leisurely breakfast and then shoot their pictures in the late morning, in harsh light; instead, get there early.

Or get there late: in the world’s renowned sunrise spots – Angkor Wat, Bangkok’s Grand Palace – go back for sunset, when the light is lovely but there’s no one there. Thinking against the crowd will make your photos stand out from them.

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Navigator Photo tips

take a pic like this 1 Steve’s gallery, plus handy hints

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Wait for the light Light can make or break your pictures. Try shooting just after sunrise or before sunset to get the warmest, most evocative light.

Often you’ll also be rewarded with fewer people in your way. Even if the weather’s bad, this can produce dramatic images, such as this shot of Machu Picchu: I waited three hours for a ray of light to break through the stormy clouds.

Nikon D2x 100 ASA, 17mm (25mm equivalent), 1/160 secs @ f7.1

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Put people in the picture There are fewer than 1,000 sites on the Unesco World Heritage list, but well over six billion people on the planet. Lob a person into the mix to help produce something original.

I spotted this temple guardian at the top of Angkor Wat in front of these carved apsaras (nymphs), which are only lit for a few minutes each day.

Nikon F5, Provia 100 ASA film, 28-70mm lens, exposure not noted

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Use creative techniques Create a more visual image. If there’s any movement in the image, using a slow shutter speed can introduce blur, such as with this stream of pilgrims on the Barkhor Circuit, Lhasa, Tibet. If there’s no movement in the scene, exploit depth of field – either by using a wide aperture to give a shallow depth of field, or a small aperture to render the whole scene in focus.

Nikon F5, Provia 100 ASA film, 80-200mm lens, 10-20 secs @ f22 Experiment with angles Looking at familiar subjects with a creative eye can produce pictures that stand out – such as this shot of Ahu Tongariki, Easter Island.

Employ an extreme composition to fill the scene with a dramatic sky, or change the viewpoint or angle to combine your icon with an interesting object or foreground.

Nikon D2x 100 ASA, 28mm (42mm equivalent), 1/125 secs @ f8

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The Big 3

Key rules of travel ICON images

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If you only remember one thing…

Pre-visualise! Don’t rush in and snap away – stop and think first. Look for interesting angles, imaginative combinations and creative photographic techniques to make your work stand out.

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Tech tip Don’t allow your camera to set the aperture and shutter speeds: wrestle back control and work in the extremes. Select the aperture to maximise or minimise the depth of field, or use a super-slow shutter speed to blur people or create star trails by moonlight.

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One for the kitbag If you’re going to play with long shutter speeds etc, you’ll need a tripod. Not every icon permits their use (the Taj, for example), but if you’re allowed, you can increase your creative options. I use a carbon-fibre Manfrotto tripod, for lightness and stability.

Steve leads a range of travel photography tours, with land arrangements by Intrepid Travel.

Forthcoming destinations are Laos & Cambodia, Ladakh and Morocco.

For more detail, check out www.bettertravelphotography.com

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