Vancouver magazine, May2016

Women Bring the Heat / Is it Time to End Tipping?

#J US T BE T T E R

the 27thannual

RESTAURANT AWARDS

2,000 DISHES 400 RESTAURANTS 18 JUDGES 1

... and one massive surprise VA N M A G . C O M M A R C H 2 0 1 6

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RELAX IN

WHISTLER FOR LESS THIS SPRING Longer days, fewer crowds and superb savings mean there is no better time than now to indulge in everything Whistler has to offer.

M

ay is a magical month in Whistler for Vancouverites in the know. It’s that unique time when ski, bike and golf are all on the menu. The crowds of powder hounds have thinned, the days stretch long and the fresh mountain air is warm and inviting. And so are the deals for hedonists looking to relax after a busy winter.

GET INTO THE SWING OF THINGS Whistler’s

championship golf courses glow green and lush in May, awaiting the first swings of the season. What better way to embrace the longer days of Spring than by enjoying the links at Canada’s premier golf destination? No matter your skill level, Whistler’s four courses offer a challenge against a backdrop of epic scenery. Just try to watch the ball.

RELAX AND REJUVENATE Whether you head back

outside or opt to wind down after lunch, the afternoon calls for pampering at one of Whistler’s legendary spas— made all the more irresistible in May by their great deals on treatments. The recently reimagined Scandinave Spa has never been more tempting, and the classic luxury and attention to service at The Spa at Nita Lake Lodge and the Fairmont Chateau Whistler’s Vida Spa make both a mandatory stop on the unwinding trail.

EPIC FEASTS FOR HALF THE PRICE Follow up your

outdoor time with dinner at one of the 20-plus awardwinning restaurants in town, offering up a multi-course, fixed-price indulgent menu starting at just $19 per person.

The dining options are as diverse as your craving, so pick a spot—ranging from casual pub fare to award-winning fine dining—and reenergize after a big day in the mountains. At these prices, you may as well buy the bottle and settle in.

DRIFT OFF IN THE MOUNTAINS Any great day should end with an even better sleep. Like everything else, when it comes to accommodation, Whistler has you covered.

And May is the perfect time to sample some of Whistler’s finest accommodation offerings – at discount rates. May’s indulgence features exceptional accommodation rates with room-only specials starting from $99. The pedestrianfriendly Village at the base of Whistler and Blackcomb mountains is home to shops, restaurants, activities and entertainment – all waiting to be explored. Restaurant patios and Village benches make great spots for people-watching.

Sit back, relax and enjoy the view.

HOT EVENT Taking place May 22, The Bici Gusti was created for those with an insatiable love for gourmet food and cycling. Participants will take an early season, 70-km spin with an intimate group of 70 like-minded riders through the Whistler and Callaghan Valleys. The payoff? Famed local chef Ned Bell preparing an exquisite post-ride dinner created with ingredients within—wait for it—70 km.

MONEY-SAVING TIP! BC Residents can sign up for whistler.com’s new loyalty program at whistler.com/rewards for further, exclusive savings.

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MAY

V O L U M E 4 9 // N U M B E R 4

Want to know what it was like to be at this year’s Restaurant Awards? For photos, video, and commentary from the gala event, go to vanmag.com/RA2016

feature story PG 38

ALSO

THE 27 th A NNUAL

RESTAUR A NT AWARDS

From upscale French to food trucks and everything in between, our Restaurant Awards once again celebrate the best our food scene has to offer. And trust us on this: it’s really, really good.

Business as Unusual Sexism. Discrimination. Inequality.

They can all be in a day’s work for women in the restaurant industry.

That’s why some women are trying to change things from within. Pg 64

Money for Nothing Danny Meyer is getting rid of tipping at all 13 of his New York restaurants.

But will anyone in Vancouver be brave enough to follow in his footsteps? Pg 72

ON THE COVER

j A scene from Torafuku, the runner-up to Mosquito for Best New Restaurant Design of the year.

Photo by Carlo Ricci

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

11

Find out why this might be a key part of your new workplace uniform. Pg 88

#J UST BE T T E R DE PA RT M E N T S

City

What Vancouver’s real estate agents could learn from its stockbrokers; The history of Hastings and Cambie; How to say no to charity canvassers without being a jerk. Pg 21

Taste Play Pg 79

A guide to Haida Gwaii’s imposing (and inspiring) landscape; Inside modeling agent Liz Bell’s suitably beautiful home; What the mayor of Coquitlam and a New York art director have in common. Pg 79

Pg 24

EXTRAS

Editor’s Note This year’s Restaurant Awards includes a pretty major upset. A look at how it happened—and why it matters. Pg 18

Vancouver Specialist

By Charlie Demers

Pg 90

Pg 34

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

BAL ANCING ROCK , HAIDA GWAII: TALLUL AH PHOTOGRAPHY; CAMBIE & HASTINGS: VANCOUVER ARCHIVES; LIBERT Y BAKERY: PAGE & PAPER

Why patience is a virtue at Masayoshi; Meet L’Abattoir’s rising star; A tour of south Main’s moveable feast. Pg 31

The developer reserves the right to make changes to the information contained herein without notice. Rendering is representational only and may not be accurate. E.&O.E.

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Editor-in-Chief Max Fawcett Art Director Paul Roelofs Senior Editor Trevor Melanson Associate Art Director Naomi MacDougall Assistant Art Director Jenny Reed Assistant Editor Jenni Elliott Online Assistant Kaitlyn Gendemann Videographer Mark Philps Contributing Writers Charlie Demers, Neal McLennan, Amanda Ross, Jimmy Thomson, D.B. Thompson, Eagranie Yuh, Nick Zarzycki Contributing Artists Eydís Einarsdóttir, Clinton Hussey, Evaan Kheraj, Joe McKendry (contributor illustrations), Andrew Querner, Carlo Ricci, John Sinal, Martin Tessler, Milos Tosic, Luis Valdizon Editorial Intern Eliot Escalona Art Intern Ying Tang Editorial Email mail@vanmag.com

Vancouver Office Suite 560, 2608 Granville St. Vancouver, B.C., V6H 3V3 604-877-7732

East India Carpets D I S T I N C T I V E D E S I G N S S I N C E 19 4 8

VANCOUVER MAGAZINE is published 10 times a year by Yellow Pages Homes Ltd. Copyright 2015. All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without the publisher’s written permission. Not responsible for unsolicited editorial material.

Privacy Policy: On occasion, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened organizations whose product or service might interest you. If you prefer that we not share your name and address (postal and/or email), you can easily remove your name from our mailing lists by reaching us at any of the listed contact points. You can review our complete Privacy Policy at Vanmag.com. Indexed in the Canadian Magazine Index by Micromedia Ltd. and also in the Canadian Periodical Index. International standard serial no. ISSN 0380-9552. Canadian publications mail product sales agreement #40068973. Printed in Canada by Transcontinental Printing G.P. (LGM Graphics), 737 Moray St., Winnipeg, MB, R3J 3S9. All reproduction requests must be made to: COPIBEC (paper reproductions) 800-7172022, or CEDROM-SNi (electronic reproductions) 800-563-5665.

Distributed by Coast to Coast Ltd.

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6 2016-03-23 11:37 AM

A N D I A B L A S C O K N O L L P A O L A L E N T I R I C H A R D S C H U LT Z R O D A E X T R E M I S G A N D I A B L A S C O K N O L L PA O L A L E N T I RI C HA R

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1706 WEST 1ST AVE ARMOURY DISTRICT VANCOUVER 604 683 1116 LIVINGSPACE.COM

Publisher & General Manager Tom Gierasimczuk Senior Sales Manager, Western Canada Edwin Rizarri Account Managers Deanna Bartolomeu, Judy Johnson Sales Coordinator Karina Platon Production Manager Lee Tidsbury Advertising Designer Swin Nung Chai Marketing & Events Manager Dale McCarthy Event Coordinator Laura Lilley Marketing Assistant Kaitlyn Lush

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EXPERIENCE HYPOTHESIS The critically-acclaimed Bordeaux-style blend from the Okanagan Valley’s Culmina Family Estate Winery.

Administrative Assistant/Online Coordinator Kaitlyn Gendemann Vancouver Office Suite 560, 2608 Granville St. Vancouver, B.C., V6H 3V3 604-877-7732

ypnexthome.ca President Jacky Hill Director, National Sales & Channel Management, Lifestyle Nadine Starr National Sales Manager, Channel Management, Lifestyle Ian Lederer National Sales Director Moe Lalani Director of Content Susan Legge

93 POINTS 2012 HYPOTHESIS ~ Rick van Sickle

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Yellow Pages Digital and Media Solutions Ltd. Vice-President & Chief Publishing Officer Caroline Andrews

SPEAKER

POWER

WITH GREAT POWER, COMES GREAT

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CONVERSATION Back for a second year! Vancouver magazine and Brian Jessel BMW present the second annual M Power Series, networking and thoughtleadership speaker events featuring Vancouver’s Power 50 honorees, hosted at the luxurious Brian Jessel BMW dealership.

The first panel, features architect Gregory Henriquez and social good entrepreneur Joel Solomon, at 6 p.m. on April 19, titled “How our runaway real estate boom can be channeled for social good.”

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From the Editor

Eastern Promises

I Coming in the June issue GENERATION SCREWED

Why Vancouver is the most diff icult city in Canada for young educated people to live in—and why that should matter to all of us.

THE 2nd ANNUAL VANCOUVER INTERNATIONAL CRAFT BEER AWARDS

Our city’s love affair with craft beer continues to grow, and so does our coverage of it. Find out which brews are best, where to consume them, and how you can start making your own.

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

I KNOW WHAT YOU’RE THINKING: Why now? Why, seven years after it first opened, is Vancouver Magazine picking Maenam as the Restaurant of the Year? It’s simple, really: we gave our judges the opportunity to pick it.

Now, this strays dangerously far into sausage-making territory, but because of the magnitude of the change I think it’s worth an explanation. In recent years the Restaurant of the Year award was decided between the winners of Best Upscale and Best Casual, but we expanded the conversation this year to include all of the medalists (that is, top three) in the categories of Best Upscale, Best Casual, and Best New Restaurant. We wanted to give our judges the freedom to consider as many potential winners as possible, and we thought doing so would produce a more satisfactory outcome for everyone.

Well, mission accomplished. After a wide-ranging discussion of all the candidates, it became clear who they were going to choose—and that they were happy with (and maybe even proud of) that choice. Maenam, they said, deserves to be recognized for the standard of quality that it has maintained. But it also deserves to be recognized for setting that standard in the first place, and the impact that’s had on our culinary scene.

It’s more than just the best Thai restaurant in the city, after all. It’s

also the restaurant that many of the judges said they tell their out-of-town friends to go to when they’re visiting, and one they thoroughly enjoy going back to themselves. In a way, it’s a metaphor for Vancouver’s restaurant scene in 2016, and maybe even the city itself: a place that blends old and new, upscale and casual, tradition and trend, and east and west.

There will be those who wonder how a restaurant that finished second in one category could win the top overall honour. But the same thing could be said about the recent Oscars, in which The Revenant picked up the statues for best actor and best director but Spotlight won for best picture.

That didn’t make The Revenant any less impressive of a film, and neither should Maenam’s win undermine the standing of Ask For Luigi, Hawksworth, or the other restaurants that were up against it. They’re all fantastic rooms, and they’ll all be back in the mix next year. But they’ll have to beat everyone else who’s in that mix in order to win, which is just as it should be. More competition, after all, makes everyone better.

Max Fawcett max.fawcett@vanmag.com

RYAN GIRARD; BEER: E YDÍS EINARSDÓT TIR

It’s been more than two decades since an Asian restaurant won Restaurant of the Year. Here’s how (and why) it finally happened again

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City

VANMAG .COM/CITY

RE ALTORS VS . BROK ERS / NICK Z AR Z YCK I’S GUIDE TO VANCOUVER / HA S T INGS AND C AMBIE / R AT FAC T S / DEFENDING T R ANSL INK

AT I S S U E

Out of the Shadows SHADOW FLIPPING, as Vancouverites learned in February, is not solely the domain of secretive ninjas. When the Globe and Mail broke an investigative story on the practice, realtors found themselves in the crosshairs of public scorn. For the uninitiated, shadow flipping is when a buyer purchases a property for an agreed-upon price and then reassigns it to another buyer at a higher price before the sale closes, trousering the difference—often hundreds of thousands of dollars— without paying a dime in property transfer tax.

The practice has undermined the trustworthiness of certain real estate agents who’ve facilitated shadow flipping—and, in the eyes of some, the industry as a whole. “Public confidence in the real estate industry is practically at zero,” says Vancouver–Point Grey MLA David Eby. In March, the province announced plans to end shadow flipping; additional income generated from reassigning a sale now goes back to the original seller, negating the benefit of the practice. But this change came after a media firestorm—not from a regulatory body doing its due diligence. In terms of regulation,

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

21

City

AT I S S U E

In B.C. last year ...

3.4 in 1,000 there’s still room for improvement, according to UBC professor Cristie Ford, one of Canada’s top experts on securities regulation. And B.C.’s securities industry is a model for how to do it right, she says. “It may be time for the real estate council to look at ramping up its capacities, structure, and its oversight of the industry to the same degree.”

Ford says that back in the ’80s and ’90s, the Vancouver Stock Exchange was “basically lawless. It gave Vancouver the reputation of being the scam capital of the world.” The B.C. superintendent of brokers, the securities regulator at the time, did not have the scope or structure needed to tackle rampant abuses. Famous stock promoter Murray Pezim, for example, pitched everything from rejuvenation pills to monogrammed fruit. The B.C. Securities Commission (BCSC), formed in 1996, was put in place to combat those abuses—and,

ultimately, it succeeded. “The BCSC today has a much wider mandate,” Ford says, “with the right structure and resources to crunch data and stay ahead of possible negative or illegal practices in the market.”

In 2015, the BCSC disciplined 2 percent of its 2,726 licensees, permanently banned 29 licensees, and fined several individuals millions of dollars each. In that same year, the Real Estate Council of British Columbia (RECBC) received 536 complaints (which it largely depends on to open investigations) but disciplined only 75 of its 22,005 licensees—0.34 percent—and cancelled just one licence. Those that were disciplined were fined an average of $2,460, typically to recover enforcement expenses.

David Eby is familiar with the RECBC’s disciplinary record, and he’s not impressed. “When I look at the disciplinary decisions, I think to

How to Avoid Talking to Canvassers Without Being an Ass m MOST PEOPLE TREAT STREET CANVASSERS the same way they would a full-screen pop-up ad or someone who just escaped from prison. Politicians hate them too: in 2012, a Victoria city councillor named Shellie Gudgeon tried to ban canvassers (sometimes referred to as “charity muggers”) because, as she put it, her “personal enjoyment of the city was being disrupted.”

She’s not necessarily wrong—not completely, anyways. I myself have walked off sidewalks into traffic, told elaborate lies, and role-played fake phone calls to avoid interacting with canvassers. “The worst is when someone makes eye contact with us but walks by without saying a word,” says David, a street canvasser of seven months. “It’s dehumanizing.” In truth, I had

LICENSED REALTORS WERE PENALIZED

20 in 1,000

LICENSED SECURITIES ADVISERS, TRADERS, AND DEALERS WERE PENALIZED myself, gosh, I would have definitely stripped this person’s licence when, for example, they forged a real estate contract to increase their commission.”

As for the practice of shadow flipping, while reassigning a contract was never illegal (the assignment clause exists to give buyers a way to back out of purchases in exceptional cases), the RECBC did, and does, prohibit realtors from acting in a manner that’s contrary to their clients’ best interests. It’s the sort of behaviour that, in the securities industry, would no longer go unchecked—or unpunished. —Eliot Escalona

i Each issue, Nick offers authoritative advice on living— and getting by—in the (pretty) big city

walked past David in exactly this way a week before.

It hadn’t occurred to me that David might be a regular human being—with thoughts and feelings of his own— just doing his job.

“We always laugh because people think they’re being clever, taking their phone out or putting their headphones in,” David says. “But it’s so obvious that they’re faking it.” The best rejections he gets are when someone acknowledges his existence for a split second and gives him a simple no-thank-you. “Or, just tell me, ‘I don’t want to.’ Being honest is completely fine, as long as you treat me like a person.”

Nick Zarzycki edits the Syrup Trap, Canada’s favourite humour magazine

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

D E D O N . G L O S T E R . J A N U S E T C I E . T U UC I . C A N E L I N E . B R O W N J O R D A N . K I NG S L E Y B AT E

IT’S BEAU T I FU L O U TS I D E

Our new Outdoor Showroom is now open at 3rd and Fir.

Indoor & Outdoor Showrooms: 1855/1880 Fir Street Armoury District Vancouver 604.736.8822 Monday - Saturday 10 -5:30 pm broughaminteriors.com

City

I N T E R S E C T ION S

Cambie

Northeast Yukon gold prospector Thomas Flack built the “Flack Block,” the first home of the Bank of Vancouver, in 1898. After decades of pawn-shop tenants it was given a $20-million refurbishment that finished in 2008, and you can now go there to become an environmental activist at Tides Canada, grab a latte at Bean Around the World, or eat lunch at Meat & Bread.

Hastings Named for George Fowler Hastings, British commander of the Pacific Station when Vancouver was founded.

Southeast

T IL

HAS

M

BIE

A

TIN

Built in 1908, the Carter Cotton Building was home to the Vancouver News Advertiser and the Vancouver Province.

Sold by the city in 2012 for $18 million, its main tenant now is the Vancouver Film School.

GS

CAM

H W .

P E N D E R

Standing 53 metres high, the Dominion Building was the tallest building in the British Empire when it was completed in 1910.

Many Vancouverites know it now as the home of Lebanese restaurant Nuba (hint: try the crispy cauliflower for $9.75).

O

N

Northwest

*

Henry John Cambie was the first division engineer of the CPR when the rail company plotted out downtown Vancouver.

Southwest Vancouver’s first courthouse stood here from 1889 to 1912.

As the land sat dormant during the First World War for lack of funds, it became an impromptu memorial site for soldiers—and was off icially proclaimed Victory Square in 1922 (and unoff icially proclaimed a popular site for protests ever since).

*

It was home to Vancouver’s first courthouse, first mall, and first major tower. It was where the business district, CPR lands, and streetcars to the suburbs all intersected. When Vancouver was coming into its own at the turn of the 20th century, Hastings and Cambie was its epicentre. The city’s heartbeat has shifted over the decades, but the three buildings that surrounded Victory Square during the First World War are still standing as reminders of what Vancouver was—and how much it’s changed.

By D.B. THOMPSON

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

VANCOUVER ARCHIVES

Hastings and Cambie

City

S HOW & T E L L

Big Data

A Plague on All Our Houses Everything you didn’t want to know about Vancouver’s rats

THE VANCOUVER RAT POPULATION is adaptable, family-oriented, and growing, according to the city’s pest control companies.

But rats aren’t just a problem for those who live in close proximity to open sewers and closed businesses. According to Chelsea Himsworth, head researcher with the Vancouver Rat Project, “the health risks that rats bring are always there, whether you’re in Shaughnessy or the Downtown Eastside.” And, yes, rats may even be patrons of your favourite restaurant too—the leftovers, anyways.

Rat Facts Rats are infected with a number of zoonotic (animal-to-human) pathogens, such as E. coli and salmonella

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

If You’re Squeamish, Don’t Read This One Rat urine can carry leptospira, a bacterium contracted by animals that can cause liver and kidney failure or bleeding

Hood Rats Rats are a diverse bunch, and in different areas of the city will carry different diseases, depending on what bacteria they’re in contact with

Survival of the Fittest No, you don’t have to like them. But you should probably give rats their due. “They really are able to seek out an existence no matter what we throw at them,” Himsworth says.

“If we never treat them with the respect they deserve we are never going to deal with the problem.”

How many rats are there in Vancouver?

We have no idea, Himsworth says. “As a port city, we have learned to live with them, and so it’s hard to detect their gradual growth.“ The solution? “A concerted municipal effort to track our urban rat population.”

Mouthing Off Rat bites can transmit streptobacillus, a common ratrelated bacterium that can cause fever, rashes, and arthritis in humans. And yes, they will bite— even you

Chelsea Himsworth

LIDIA (35 - 42)

H

AN

SH

DM AD BY BY

MASTE MA TER ER

E

We have put a man on the moon, we are sending rovers to Mars, we have computers in our pockets, but we are in the exact same place that we were 100 years ago when it comes to dealing with rats.”

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City

CIT Y SEEN

By TREVOR MELANSON

In Defence of TransLink Why the Lower Mainland’s most hated institution deserves a break

O

ON MARCH 21, Kevin Desmond, former general manager for Seattle’s King County Metro Transit, took on what might be considered an unenviable role as the new CEO of TransLink.

I say unenviable because winning this particular position is a bit like inheriting the Iron Throne at King’s Landing—minus the fleeting glory. According to an Insights West survey from last July, fully three quarters of Metro Vancouverites do not trust TransLink to do its job, while 62 percent said reforming the organization was the most pressing transit concern facing this city (as opposed to, say,

How much transit authorities subsidize passenger trips (per kilometre travelled)

Toronto

$0.08

Calgary

$0.12

Vancouver

$0.13

Montreal, Ottawa/Gatineau

$0.17

Minneapolis

$0.45

Houston, Seattle and Denver

$0.51

Portland

$0.53

funding for new SkyTrain lines).

That survey came after last year’s crushing referendum defeat, in which support for the “Yes” side went down in flames as a campaign against TransLink’s perceived incompetency caught fire. The Canadian Taxpayers Federation called TransLink “one of the country’s most wasteful government agencies,” and the Insights West survey suggests that many Vancouverites agree. Repeated system-wide SkyTrain shutdowns last year certainly didn’t help matters, nor have hiccups with the rollout of the long-awaited Compass card.

But is TransLink really worse than other transit authorities? A 2015 study on the matter suggests quite the contrary. According to the Victoria Transport Policy Institute’s research, TransLink scores highly on three key efficiency measures: how much it subsidizes each passenger trip, how much it subsidizes each kilometre travelled, and its fare box recovery ratio. When it came to the latter, only the Toronto Transit Commission topped TransLink among North American cities. In other words, TransLink, arch nemesis of the Canadian Taxpayers Federation, is spending fewer taxpayer dollars doing its job than the majority of its peers.

It’s safe to assume that incoming CEO Kevin Desmond already knows this—and what his real challenge is. As he told media in February, “I understand that TransLink has suffered a bruise to its brand.” Now he just needs to convince locals that TransLink isn’t actually the bloated wastrel its critics would have us believe.

Fair or not, he has his work cut out for him.

C A S E I N P OI N T

Really Easy Rider m With self-driving cars coming, old-fashioned driving may soon go the way of cursive writing. But while we await our robot chauffeurs, Vancouverites who lack a driver’s licence will have another alternative to taking the bus: Veemo. Though legally a bike, each colourful Veemo has an enclosed cabin, a heated seat, and a 500-watt power assist that allows it to travel at 32 km/h with minimal pedalling. “Consider it a coaster bike on steroids,” VeloMetro CEO John Stonier says of the 265-pound vehicle. Roughly 100 shareable Veemos (think Car2Go) will hit the streets of Vancouver in 2017.

28

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

A NEW YORK ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE

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Located in the Century Plaza Hotel

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Join host Max Fawcett, Editor-in-Chief at Vancouver magazine, who will take you on a culinary journey through the regions of Thailand.

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Taste

V A N M A G .C O M /T A S T E

T H E F R A S E R H O O D ’ S N E W E S T H O T S P O T / L’ A B A T T O I R ’ S R I S I N G S T A R / E A T I N G S O U T H M A I N

oSablefish with sake kasu, edamame spears, and lotus chip (served as part of the omakase menu, $100)

THE DISH

MARSHALL TO

Sweet Surrender

T

THERE IS a certain thrill that comes from abdicating responsibility, even if it’s as simple as allowing chef Masayoshi Baba to decide what you’re having for dinner. That’s especially true if it includes the sablefish, a gorgeously buttery fish under gently torched skin that oozes the fruity, umami, and fermented notes of the sake kasu it’s marinated in. Then there’s the smoked salmon, which arrives under a cut-glass bowl and bathes you with a plume of hickory smoke when it’s removed. The fish, which tastes of a campfire before mellowing to sweet cherrywood notes, is served with a salad of pea shoots and baby arugula in a vinaigrette that smacks your palate awake—in the best sort of way.

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

31

THE DISH

Those are just two of the highlights from the oftenrotating menu of hot omakase, which comes in two iterations: $100 is a solid bet, and $120 gets you specialty nigiri items.

If it’s sushi you’re after, there’s also the nigiri sushi omakase ($80), which is served only at the bar. “Fresh sushi is the most delicious sushi,” Baba says. “If I make nigiri and then it goes to the table, it’s a little bit old. The best sushi is at my counter.” His menu, naturally, changes according to what’s fresh and in season.

Service is spot-on thanks to general manager Tomohisa Uchida, who works the small space with aplomb. “We didn’t want to have the same sushi restaurant with a low ceiling and the smell of vinegar and tempura,” Uchida says.

“We wanted high ceilings, big windows, and a clear atmosphere.” They found all of that in a former cafe on the 4300 block of Fraser Street, but when Masayoshi opened in September, its high-end concept and leisurely pace clashed with diners expecting takeout, rolls, and cheap-andcheerful efficiency.

Now, a few months in, Baba and Uchida (both alumni of Tojo’s) have hit their stride with a streamlined menu and a clearer vision—one that emphasizes omakase. Consider yourself warned, then. Dining at Masayoshi plays out like a slow dance between restaurant and diner, a languid exchange that cannot—and should not— be rushed. —EAGRANIE YUH Masayoshi

4376 Fraser St., 604-428-6272 masayoshi.ca

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

N E E D T O K N OW

The Company Man L’Abattoir’s Greg McCallum is a rising star in the restaurant industry—but he’s happy right where he is

VANCOUVER’S kitchens have their share of young cooks looking for the shortest possible path to fame and attention. Greg McCallum, L’Abattoir’s 27-year-old chef de cuisine, is not one of them.

Instead, he seems content to continue paying his culinary dues.

“Right now, I’m just happy being part of the team and developing as a chef, as a manager, and as a cook.”

Those dues began at the age of 13, when he got a job washing dishes at a catering company/cafe in Kelowna. It wasn’t long before he was cooking on the line, and by the end of high school, McCallum says, “I was kind of running the place.” Indeed, the owner offered to make him a partner when he was just 16, but he had bigger plans in mind. Those plans landed him at cooking school in Vancouver (the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts) and eventually in a job at Le Crocodile, where he got to work under chef Michel Jacob and his chef de cuisine Frank Berthelon. “They really inspired me, built me up, and taught me the basics,” McCallum says.

He’s well beyond the basics now, having scaled the ranks at L’Abattoir (where he started in 2010, just weeks after the restaurant opened) to stand alongside executive chef Lee Cooper. But while he knows the next logical step in his career is for him to run his own kitchen, he’s not in any hurry to take it. “You have to decide whether you want to drop the knives and pick up a laptop, or whether you want to be in the kitchen producing food. For now, I definitely want to be in there cooking.” —MA X FAWCET T

ANDREW QUERNER

Taste

Untitled-9 1

2016-03-24 3:05 PM

VANCOUVER’S ONLY BROKER TEAM DEDICATED SOLELY TO RESTAURANT AND BAR SALES. We are pleased to have been an integral part of Vancouver’s restaurant community since 2012, representing over 80 restaurateurs in successful transactions.

We would like to congratulate AnnaLena on a stellar year.

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• Savio Volpe • Fable • Mission

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Taste

MOV E A BL E F E A S T

by fiona morrow / photos by page & paper

South of the Border Grub

4 B U R o 9 th & urd A b nc l C e a s Pa e' o . o ck s te r a r s ll e l

K an a f k d a' s Te C a o

ffe

e

WEST BROADWAY

Burdock & Co

Uncle Abes

Slickety Jim's

ic D ke Pi o n Th b ty be z L ze ' t A ai ik J im rt ria rg Fo es yB ' s ue od ak er y

MAIN ST

16TH AVE

Sl

Acorn

Th

e

Ac

or

n

Bo

Li

It may be psychologically— if not officially—the place where east meets west, but south Main sits happily on the fence, as comfortable with old-school diners and holes-in-the-walls as it is with some of the city’s more modern rooms Liberty Bakery

ul

T T i he k i Sh Ro a om me f

T an r ilu d ss Pa a n e Piz z

a

KING EDWARD AVE

34

Liberty Bakery

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

Kafka's

Cool Beans

Don't Argue Pizzaria

Don't Argue Pizzaria

Burdock & Co

49th Parallel

Shameful Tiki

No trek up Main Street is complete without the power of caffeine. Start with Kafka’s Coffee and Tea, which features a counter of coffee-making contraptions that evoke a mad scientist vibe. If you want to know anything about optimal brewing, this is the place to ask.

Stroll south and top yourself up at 49th Parallel Roasters, where you owe it to yourself to replenish with a damn fine cup of coffee and a calorieworthy Lucky’s donut. And further up, at 21st Avenue, the trio of artists (including Rodney Graham) behind Liberty Bakery have refreshed and restyled a neighbourhood landmark into a bright and pleasingly quirky room serving Elysian beans and Nordic-themed menu items.

Eastbound

It may not look like much, but don’t pass by the Sunny Spot Cafe—try the hand-pulled northern Chinese biangbang noodles, or grab a spicy pork xian burger. For authentic home-style pad thai, curries and, yes, Bob’s own twist on poutine, you can’t go wrong with the always tasty Bob Likes Thai Food.

Granola Bars

The Fish Counter

Sunny Spot

IMAGE CREDIT

Dock Lunch

These eateries, which are at the intersection of raised awareness and higher incomes, offer some of Main Street’s most accomplished and ethical cooking. The Acorn, for example, has achieved the difficult task of presenting vegetarian, vegan and raw food in a way has even committed carnivores lining up to eat.

A fire may have closed it for a year, but Grub returned last fall to showcase produce from its own farm and serve up plates of smartened-up comfort food. And at Burdock & Co., chef Andrea Carlson stays true to her roots by using top quality local organic produce to create refined yet rustic dishes.

So Main

Nothing says South Main like these spots. Yes, they're hangouts for the conspicuously hirsute, but they let even the most clean-shaven among us in.

Starting just north of Broadway, the delightful Dock Lunch offers one lunch option, dinner only on Fridays, and weekend brunch. In other words, it’s as Portland as Vancouver gets.

The much-missed Rumpus Room, meanwhile, has arisen as Uncle Abe’s—smaller (and with food from the kebab shop next door), but replete with sofas, bric-a-brac, board games, and picklebacks.

With the best jukebox in the city (and some pretty fine pies, too) Don’t Argue Pizzeria is seriously on trend—think bench seating, local brews on tap, and kale available as an extra.

And while Slickety Jim’s is a SoMa mainstay, it remains unrepentantly original, serving up heaping meals with singularly creative names—“The Breakfast of Broken Dreams,” or “Charlie Don’t Surf”—to those willing to line up for their eggs.

On The Run

No time to dally? Make your way to The Fish Counter for ethically caught (and excellent) seafood—fish and chips, tacos, sandwiches—from sustainability guru Rob Clark, or head to Trilussa, where chef/owner Alessandro Fonseca serves up slices of authentically Romanstyle pizza.

Last Call

If you need to quench a thirst you built up traversing south Main, try the The Shameful Tiki Room. Dimly lit and kitch-tastic, it’s the perfect place for a secret assignation, getting squiffy on proper Mai Tais, or just rocking that ridiculous shirt with the pineapples and palm trees no matter what the weather's like outside.

Bob Likes Thai

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

35

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the 2016

RESTAURANT awards

Democracy, broadly speaking, is a good thing.

But when it comes to food? Well, let’s just say that’s not its most effective application. Yes, everyone with a smartphone and a spoon is free to express their opinion, but we still believe in the value of expertise—and the people who possess it, those whose palates can’t be swayed by PR or payola.

Once again, those people have rendered their verdicts. Welcome to our enlightened dictatorship.

Photos by CARLO RICCI

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

39

Restaurant of the Year

Maenam 40

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

★★★ 1938 W. 4th Ave. 604-730-5579

RA 2016

Maenam has long been a fixture as Vancouver’s best Thai restaurant. Now, it’s our Restaurant of the Year

WHEN ASKED his age, Angus An says he's 36. No, he corrects himself—35.

“I feel 46, to be honest with you,” he says. It’s an understandable mix up. Age is an easy thing to forget for someone like An, who opened his first restaurant, Gastropod, when he was just 26. Maenam, his flagship restaurant, came three years later,

and he’s since opened three casual eateries and won more awards for his work than most chefs twice his age. Indeed, 35 seems almost impossibly young considering the fact that, according to this year’s Restaurant Awards judges, An has been instrumental in not only putting out amazing food night after night but also transforming Vancouver’s dining scene in the process.

“He reinvented himself with Maenam,” says Anya Levykh, a food critic for the Westender, “and he reinvented people’s concepts of what Thai food could be.” He also reinvented what a Thai restaurant could be, and expanded that definition to include modern decor, intimate service, and carefully crafted cocktails and wine pairings— features that were traditionally reserved for more continental establishments.

Levykh says that if it weren’t for Maenam, places like Bao Bei, Torafuku, and Pidgin might not exist.

“It’s not just the best Thai restaurant,” she says, “it’s a really great restaurant—a definitive restaurant.”

But despite pioneering a new category of dining in this city, An— who was born in Taiwan and grew up in Maple Ridge—had very traditional aspirations at the start of his culinary career. After graduating with a fine arts degree from UBC, he trained at New York’s French Culinary Institute before putting in his time at some of London’s best fine dining restaurants.

“At that point, I was determined to be a French chef,” An says. “French food was the pinnacle of what my career would be.” That is, until one day a friend invited him to work at Nahm, the world’s only Michelin-starred Thai restaurant at the time.

The seed that would eventually blossom into Maenam had been planted, even if An didn’t quite realize it yet. Nahm is also where he met Kate Auewattanakorn, his future wife and business partner, and when the couple returned to Vancouver in 2006 they opened Gastropod, an upscale experimental restaurant in Kitsilano.

But despite rave reviews Gastropod didn’t survive the recession, and in 2009 the pair made the decision to close it and try something new.

That something new was, of course, Maenam—the Thai eatery the two had imagined would be their second restaurant. It was an instant hit. “We were able to provide ethnic food with slightly...sexier vibes,” he says. “Before, 20 years ago, I don’t think that was there.

Even the good ones were not romantic, not a nice night out. Now there are restaurants where you can go and have a really good night. That’s what was missing.”

According to Levykh, while An came after trailblazers like Vikram Vij and Meeru Dhalwala, he’s inspired many others with his approach at Maenam.

“And I think in a way he was the one who made [contemporary Asian dining] more mainstream,” she says. But it’s not just those sexier vibes keeping Maenam in business. “It’s his technique,” Levykh says. “Everything from the way he trains his kitchen to the knife work to the layering of ingredients—that Thai balance of the five basic flavours. It’s in every single dish that he serves.” She says she’s lost count of the number of times she’s eaten at Maenam over the years. “It’s constantly being refined, it’s constantly being improved, and every time it’s a little bit better than the time before.” —TREVOR MELANSON

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

41

RA 2016

Best New Restaurant

Royal Dinette 42

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

★★★

Royal Dinette 905 Dunsmuir St. 604-974-8077

★★

Bauhaus

1 W. Cordova St. 604-974-1147

★

AnnaLena

1809 W. 1st Ave. 604-379-4052

It’s probably safe to say that “business as usual” is not a concept that David Gunawan looks upon favourably. After all, his career has been defined by a seemingly relentless need for change, both in the plates he puts out and the places in which they get served. That sensibility has found its fullest expression at Royal Dinette, where the food that he and head chef Jack Chen are creating is almost defiantly—and always unapologetically—creative.

The products of Gunawan’s unique form of culinary intelligence have always been apparent, but they became impossible to ignore last year.

Vancouver Magazine’s Restaurant Awards judges certainly didn't, given that they named Royal Dinette as 2016’s Best New Restaurant and Gunawan as their Chef of the Year.

Royal Dinette makes four highend success stories in four years that Gunawan’s name has been attached to—six if you count stints at Maenam and Ouest that came before Wildebeest. That’s where he spent six months working with James Iranzad and Josh Pape on their nose-to-tail Gastown project before launching the highly acclaimed Farmer’s Apprentice, and he would go on to add Grapes & Soda next door a year later.

Now, it seems, he’s put both of them on the market in order to focus on Royal Dinette, which opened in the summer of 2015. And one just feels certain that something surprising will soon be in the news.

But that sense of restlessness and constant reinvention should be familiar to diners who know Gunawan’s plates, because all of his

ventures since leaving Wildebeest have featured changing menus that embrace innovation and the unexpected. To wit, a menu fixe, drawing on items from all of those rooms:

“He likes to encourage other people’s creativity.”

JAMES IRANZAD

idealistic, hyper-democratic, round table type of kitchen leadership,” says James Iranzad. “He likes to encourage other people’s creativity.”

Maybe another clue is provided by a comment Gunawan made later in his Pecha Kucha speech. Grinning a little sheepishly, the chef told the Each of these is deliciously crowd: “We don’t want you to like strange, deliciously innovative. And everything about us. I find it boring to no wonder: at Pecha Kucha last year, love all dishes. I’d rather you like one Gunawan described his culinary and hate another and find two okay, philosophy in terms of eliminating “predictable outcomes and emotions.” then have a dessert that’s amazing.”

That’s probably the most important Where does the impulse come thing to know about this chef. His from? A clue lies in his leadership primary objective isn’t to make you style. “Dave has a lovely, slightly Sourdough with smoked onion butter.

Egg yolk, potato, onion, and granola.

Squash, peach, pistachio, Thai basil, and colatura anchovy sauce.

And for dessert: turnip, green lime sorbet, yogurt foam, celery.

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

43

trimpac.net | 604.688.2508

RA 2016

Congratulations to all of the 2016 Van Mag Award Winners and Nominees!

freshpoint.com

Open Daily 10am to 6pm tinhorn.com | 1.888.484.6467

RESTAURANT AT TINHORN CREEK

Open for Lunch, Tapas & Dinner 7 days a week miradoro.ca | 250.498.3742

Chef of the Year

David Gunawan feel comfortable. These rooms are about ingredients and invention.

And Gunawan himself may be off in a corner, musing on what comes next.

“Even on a busy Friday night service, Dave could be working in the prep kitchen,” Iranzad says. “He didn’t need to lead the line every time. He was often happy just developing his ideas.”

A recent photo posted to Gunawan's Instagram gives a sense of how this looks in practice. A paper menu is marked up with ballpoint and Sharpie scribbles. Items are crossed out and replaced or reordered, and down the right margin is a list of ingredients: kale chip, radish and butter, dehydrated carrot, grilled broccoli, daikon, pickled mushrooms, onion chip. Who knows how those will coalesce into a single dish? But here you see a cluster of culinary imaginations sparking off one another, opening up the possibilities

44

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

David Gunawan (pictured right) may have his hands on Royal Dinette right now, but his fingerprints can be found in all of the kitchens he’s worked in over the last few years. Time will tell where those fingerprints end up next

of what the moment can offer.

If Farmer’s Apprentice and Grapes & Soda do sell, and Royal Dinette becomes the only jewel in Gunawan’s crown for the time being, Vancouver diners will still have ample opportunity to encounter the roving, experimental, and inspired ideas of this unique chef. The menu, as of mid-March, featured items such as lamb tartare, caramelized yogurt, sunchoke, pear, egg yolk, and pumpernickel; skate, clams, olive and herb panisse, kale buds, and chicken velouté; and hazelnut ice cream, kabocha squash, dark chocolate, and orange. In every case an unusual ingredient, a unique combination. In short: a surprise. —TIMOTHY TAYLOR

IT’S ENOUGH TO MAKE YOU STREAM

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RA 2016

And The Winners Are...

We’ll understand if you want to tear the next few pages out and pin them on your fridge.

After all, they contain the most rigorously judged list of the top restaurants in our city, our province, and our own neighbourhoods. Consider it your updated culinary bible— and feel free to worship accordingly.

Le Crocodile

Kinome

★★★

100–909 Burrard St. 604-669-4298

★★

217 Carrall St., 604-568-1701

871 Denman St. 604-608-1677

★

Bacchus

845 Hornby St., 604-608-5319

Best Casual French

Best Casual Italian

★★★

★★★

★★

1133 Hamilton St. 604-688-7466

305 Alexander St. 604-428-2544

1 W. Cordova St., 604-974-1147

★★

★

1328 Hornby St. 604-669-2422

★★★

Hawksworth 801 W. Georgia St. 604-673-7000

Bauhaus

Cioppino’s

1133 Hamilton St. 604-688-7466

Best Casual ★★★

Ask for Luigi 305 Alexander St. 604-428-2544

★★

Maenam

1938 W. 4th Ave. 604-730-5579

★

Bao Bei

163 Keefer St. 604-688-0876

46

Cioppino’s Giardino ★

CinCin

1154 Robson St. 604-688-7338

Ask for Luigi (TIE) ★★★

L’ufficio (TIE) 3687 W. 4th Ave. 604-676-1007

★★

Lupo

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

3763 W. 10th Ave. 604-558-1679

Dynasty Seafood

★★★

Hai Phong

1246 Kingsway 604-872-3828

★

My Chau

1715 Kingsway 604-874-6880

Best Korean ★★★

Royal Seoul House 1215 W. Broadway 604-739-9001

★★

Hanwoori

5740 Imperial St., Burnaby 604-439-0815

★

Damso

Tableau

108–777 W. Broadway 604-876-8388

★

★★

663 E. 15th Ave. , 604-873-9733

101–4600 No. 3 Rd., Richmond 604-279-0083

Best Thai

★

Maenam

1181 Melville St., 604-639-8692

Les Faux Bourgeois

Best Upscale Japanese

Chef Tony The Jade

8511 Alexandra Rd., Richmond 604-249-0082

★★★

Zest

2775 W. 16th Ave. 604-731-9378

★★

Tojo’s

1133 W. Broadway 604-872-8050

Masayoshi

4376 Fraser St., 604-428-6272

THE UNTOUCHABLES This is the fifth straight year that Hawksworth has been recognized as Vancouver’s Best Upscale restaurant—a streak that began in 2012 when it won both Best New Restaurant and Best Upscale.

Will anyone be able to knock it off its perch in 2017?

Rajio

★★

★

869 Hamilton St. 604-569-2535

★

Au Comptoir

2278 W. 4th Ave, 604-569-2278

Best Upscale Italian

Kingyo

Best Upscale Chinese

★★★

Best Upscale

2511 W. Broadway 778-379-1925

★★

L’Abattoir

Bauhaus Bauhaus

★★★

★★

Best Casual Chinese ★★★

Dinesty

Various locations

★★

Long’s

4853 Main St., 604-879-7879

★

Ningtu Cioppino’s, Best Upscale Italian: 14 years Blue Water Cafe, Best Seafood: 9 years Le Crocodile, Best Upscale French: 9 years Phnom Penh, Best Vietnamese/ Other Asian: 8 years

2130 Kingsway 604-438-6669

Best Vietnamese

867 Denman St. 604-632-0022

★★★

1938 W. 4th Ave. 604-730-5579

★★

Jitlada

1459 W. Broadway 604-738-9888

★

Longtail

116–810 Quayside Dr. New Westminster 604-553-3855

Best Indian* ★★★

My Shanti

15869 Croydon Dr., Surrey 604-560-4416

★★

Dosa Corner

8248 Fraser St., 604-324-3672

Maenam, Best Thai: 7 years

★★★

★

Waterfront Restaurant, Best Okanagan: 7 years

2234 E. Hastings St. 604-710-9515

118-7500 120 St., Surrey 604-591-6788

Hy’s Encore, Best Steakhouse/Chops: 5 years

Mr. Red Cafe

Sachdeva Sweets

LUIS VALDIZON

Best Casual Japanese

* Because Vij’s moved locations in late 2015, it missed our cut off for consideration. But we have no doubt it will return in suitably glorious fashion next year.

Best Upscale French

Reflecting Vancouver

Contact Us: (604) 893-1001 | Sales@wallcentre.com | 1088 Burrard Street, Vancouver BC www.sheratonvancouver.com

2016_VAG_MAG-FINAL.indd 1

18/03/2016 2:58:33 PM

RA 2016

Vij's Railway Express

Hy's Encore

Best Other Asian ★★★

Phnom Penh 244 E. Georgia St. 604-682-5777

★★

Pidgin

350 Carrall St., 604-620-9400

★

Torafuku

958 Main St., 778-903-2006

Best Dim Sum ★★★

Dynasty

108–777 W. Broadway 604-876-8388

★★

Chef Tony

101–4600 No. 3 Rd., Richmond 604-279-0083

Best Food Cart

Best Coffeehouse

Best Yaletown

★★★

★★★

★★★

★★★

637 Hornby St. 604-683-7671

@vijsrailway

325 Cambie St.

★★

★★

1123 Mainland St. 604-633-1280

★

311 W Cordova St.

Best Best Noodle House Steakhouse ★★★

Hokkaido Ramen Santouka

1690 Robson St., Vancouver 604-681-8121

★★

Marutama Ra-men

Hy’s Encore ★★

Gotham

780 Bidwell St., 604-688-8837

615 Seymour St. 604-605-8282

★

★

740 Denman St., 604-609-0310

1032 Alberni St., 604-637-0777

Best of the Americas

Best Seafood

Motomachi Shokudo Black+Blue

★★★

★★★

1225 Burrard St. 604-336-6554

1095 Hamilton St. 604-688-8078

Molli Café

Blue Water Cafe

★★

★★

808 12th St., New Westminster 604-544-5994

1133 W. Broadway 604-872-8050

D Roti Shak

8071 Park Rd., Richmond 604-278-0873

3353 Cambie St. 604-569-1402

2–1600 Howe St. 604-681-1164

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

@ViaTeverePizza

Ancora

Timbertrain ★

Milano

156 W 8th Ave.

Best West End Casual Chain * Best ★★★ ★★★

Kingyo

Various locations

★★

Cactus Club Cafe

Kingyo

871 Denman St., 604-608-1677

★★

Tavola

Various locations

1829 Robson St.604-6064680

★

★

Various locations

1118 Denman St., 604-558-4040

Best Neighbourhood Restaurants presented by

★

48

Via Tevere

La Taqueria

★

Las Tortas

La Bohème

Tojo’s

★

Golden Paramount

Vij’s Railway Express Revolver

Espana

Bistro Sakana ★★

La Pentola

350 Davie St., 604-642-0557

★

The Flying Pig 1168 Hamilton St. 604-568-1344

Best Gastown/ Chinatown ★★★

Bao Bei

163 Keefer St., 604-688-0876

★★

Ask for Luigi 305 Alexander St. 604-428-2544

★

Bestie

2016 Vancouver Restaurant Awards Presenting Sponsor

105 E. Pender St. 604-620-1175

SPONSORED REPORT

Cioppino’s Serves Up Old World Charm Quality Italian Cuisine from one of Vancouver’s Premier Chefs

C

hef Giuseppe Posteraro feels he has achieved what he set out to do. “The mission was to create a world class Italian/Mediterranean restaurant,” explains Pino, as he is known among locals. “I wanted to provide customers with creative meals and excellent service in a relaxed environment. Vancouverites were behind us all the way.”

Posteraro opened Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill and Enoteca in 1999, following stints at reputed restaurants around Europe and in Singapore. He believes that it is a perfect balance of tradition and evolution that brings people back. “It’s that mix of personable service and familiar faces with the highest standard of professionalism and consistency.”

Of course most would argue that the chef’s extraordinary skill plays a key role in Cioppino’s success.

Renowned for his exceptionally light Italian-inspired dishes, including house-made pastas, the 2008 and 2014 Vancouver Magazine Chef of the Year has long been

garnering attention and acclaim as one of the city’s top culinary talents.

Posteraro believes that Vancouver’s small-town vibe and unparalleled access to local products make working in the city more fun, although he says that ultimately inspiration comes from within. Long list of accolades considered, Posteraro is still most proud at the end of a long night.

“A successful evening with perfect food creations, great service and happy customers; that is what makes me happy,” he shares humbly. You’d be hard pressed to find this award-winning chef without a smile from ear to ear.

“How lucky am I to do what I love and never have to work a day in my life?”

Created by the Vancouver advertising department in partnership with Cioppino’s Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca

1133 Hamilton Street 604.688.7466 cioppinosyaletown.com PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRUCE LAW

RA 2016

Vij's Railway Express

Hy's Encore

Best Other Asian ★★★

Phnom Penh 244 E. Georgia St. 604-682-5777

★★

Pidgin

350 Carrall St., 604-620-9400

★

Torafuku

958 Main St., 778-903-2006

Best Dim Sum ★★★

Dynasty

108–777 W. Broadway 604-876-8388

★★

Chef Tony

101–4600 No. 3 Rd., Richmond 604-279-0083

Best Food Cart

Best Coffeehouse

Best Yaletown

★★★

★★★

★★★

★★★

637 Hornby St. 604-683-7671

@vijsrailway

325 Cambie St.

★★

★★

1123 Mainland St. 604-633-1280

★

311 W Cordova St.

Best Best Noodle House Steakhouse ★★★

Hokkaido Ramen Santouka

1690 Robson St., Vancouver 604-681-8121

★★

Marutama Ra-men

Hy’s Encore ★★

Gotham

780 Bidwell St., 604-688-8837

615 Seymour St. 604-605-8282

★

★

740 Denman St., 604-609-0310

1032 Alberni St., 604-637-0777

Best of the Americas

Best Seafood

Motomachi Shokudo Black+Blue

★★★

★★★

1225 Burrard St. 604-336-6554

1095 Hamilton St. 604-688-8078

Molli Café

Blue Water Cafe

★★

★★

808 12th St., New Westminster 604-544-5994

1133 W. Broadway 604-872-8050

D Roti Shak

8071 Park Rd., Richmond 604-278-0873

3353 Cambie St. 604-569-1402

2–1600 Howe St. 604-681-1164

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

@ViaTeverePizza

Ancora

Timbertrain ★

Milano

156 W 8th Ave.

Best West End Casual Chain * Best ★★★ ★★★

Kingyo

Various locations

★★

Cactus Club Cafe

Kingyo

871 Denman St., 604-608-1677

★★

Tavola

Various locations

1829 Robson St.604-6064680

★

★

Various locations

1118 Denman St., 604-558-4040

Best Neighbourhood Restaurants presented by

★

48

Via Tevere

La Taqueria

★

Las Tortas

La Bohème

Tojo’s

★

Golden Paramount

Vij’s Railway Express Revolver

Espana

Bistro Sakana ★★

La Pentola

350 Davie St., 604-642-0557

★

The Flying Pig 1168 Hamilton St. 604-568-1344

Best Gastown/ Chinatown ★★★

Bao Bei

163 Keefer St., 604-688-0876

★★

Ask for Luigi 305 Alexander St. 604-428-2544

★

Bestie

2016 Vancouver Restaurant Awards Presenting Sponsor

105 E. Pender St. 604-620-1175

Best of the Rest No, they didn’t get top billing in their respective categories, but that doesn’t mean they’re not doing a damn fine job themselves. Indeed, in a city like Vancouver, the status of honourable mention is much more than just a consolation prize.

Honourable Mentions Best New Restaurant La Tab, Ancora

Best Seafood Boulevard, Landmark Hot Pot

Best Upscale Restaurant The Pear Tree, Blue Water Cafe

Best Food Cart Le Tigre, Yolks

Best Casual Restaurant AnnaLena, La Tab Best Upscale Italian Cinara, La Quercia Best Casual Italian Campagnolo Roma Best Upscale French Five Sails, Chambar Best Casual French Bistro Wagon Rouge, Jules Best Upscale Japanese Kiriri, Miku Best Causal Japanese Kishimoto, Suika Best Upscale ChineseHoitong, Chang’An Best Casual Chinese Old Xian Food, Kongee Dinesty Best Thai Thai Cuisine by Montri, SalaThai Best Vietnamese Chau Veggie Express, Hoi An Cafe Best Dim Sum Kirin, Vivacity Best Other Asian The Union Best Noodle House Congee Noodle House, Fat Mao Best Korean Seoul Doogbaegi, Ma Dang Goul Best Indian Rangoli, Apna Chaat Best of the America The Mexican, Back Forty Best Casual Chain Guu, Earls Best Steakhouse/Chops Joe Fortes, Hamilton Street Grill

Best Pizzeria Corduroy Pie Company, Campagnolo Roma Best Coffee House The Birds & The Beets, Bump n Grind Best West End Gyoza King, The Fat Badger Best Yaletown Provence Marinaside, Rodney’s Oyster House Best Gastown/Chinatown Fat Mao Best Downtown BaoQi Best West Side Rajio, Farmer’s Apprentice Best East Side Mr. Red Cafe, Chau Veggie Express Best North Shore Trattoria Park Royal Best Richmond Top Shanghai, Cocoru Best Whistler The Mexican Corner, Rim Rock Cafe Best Victoria Part and Parcel, Pizzeria Prima Strada Best Island Sooke Harbour House, Sobo Best Okanagan Local, Central Best Winery/ Vineyard Dining Unsworth Vineyards, Terrace (Mission Hill) Missing in Action Can't find a restaurant that you think belongs in here?

That might be because it wasn't open in time—in order to be considered, a restaurant had to be open to the public on November 1, 2015.

Cinara

RA 2016

The Dream Team

You might recognize their faces. You’ve probably been served their drinks. And you’d better have tipped them well. Meet Vancouver’s front-of-house all-stars for 2016.

The Franchise Player

The Natural

“My older brother told me I needed to get a job, so as soon as I was old enough, I got one at the pub he worked at in Melbourne. At that point I didn’t know I wanted do this forever, but I knew I wanted to travel and bartending seemed like a job that could let me do that. I came to Vancouver in 2009 to work in Whistler for the Olympics—unusual for an Australian, I know. The Pacific Rim up there made me a bartender (even though I’d only applied to be a server). Then, two years after I moved to Vancouver in 2010, I was made head bartender, and here I am today. People are surprised to hear I actually drink more champagne than anything else. I like that you can have it with brunch or for a special occasion. It’s an all-day kind of drink—the best kind.”

Restaurant Director, Ancora

Grant Sceney, Head Bartender, Fairmont Pacific Rim

tara thom,

“I started working as a dishwasher and a chambermaid at my dad’s inn up north in Kitimat when I was a kid.

I remember being in grade three and telling my teacher I wanted to be a waitress when I grew up—it’s just always been my passion. My favourite thing about what I do is making sure each guest has the best experience possible. It’s not just coming in to a restaurant and being razzle dazzled— that’s not the way I manage my floor.”

The Coach

Jenna briScoe,

General Manager, Café Medina “The first job I ever had was as a server at Earls.

I say to anyone that has an interest in hospitality that they should start there, or at any of the large corporations. They train you properly, and you learn to get your feet wet. Afterwards, I realized I liked working for smaller, independent restaurants. I’m very lucky at Café Medina because we worked hard to build a family there, so it’s pretty hard to have a bad day.”

52

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

The Team Player

roger maniwa, Sommelier, Hawksworth

The Versatile Veteran Ben de champlain,

General Manager, Cinara “I spent 16 years as a line cook before I moved to the front of house, and now I really enjoy being able to pay my rent. I’ve bounced around a lot, but always seem to end up coming back to the restaurant industry. Most people don’t last two years in one restaurant. You’re always looking for a new challenge, a new team, new food. Being front of house is a bit different, but when you’re happy with your bosses, the clientele, and your produce, you’re proud to work there. Cinara is the best job I’ve had in this city. To have a family-run restaurant in downtown Vancouver? There’s nothing quite like it.”

“It’s funny to think I started by doing prep at one of the PNE’s food stalls 13 years ago. After that, I said I would bus for one year because I was enjoying myself, even if it meant postponing my mechanics program at BCIT, but then I started getting interested in the drinks side of things and was eventually made a bartender at O’Doul’s. That’s when I realized that this was the career for me. I became friends with some sommeliers and started taking bartending and wine courses. I’ve been very lucky to have encountered industry colleagues, mentors, and friends with a passion and energy that have helped me get to where I am today. I eventually joined Hawksworth when they opened back in 2011 and have been with them ever since.”

Learn more about our front of house all-stars at vanmag.com/RA2016

The Playmaker

michel durocher, Service Manager, Bauhaus “My career in hospitality began back in ’89 when I was delivering pizzas for Domino’s. What inspired me to stay in the industry?

Hard cash. I went through the Earls training program, then finally realized that I was in this for the long-haul when I was working for a hotel company in Australia. One of my favourite career stints was when I worked as the food and beverage manager at Kicking Horse Resort [outside of Golden]. We would get woken up at 5 am by the mountain safety team blasting explosives to avoid avalanches. That was a pretty memorable experience. That, and getting mugged after the Van Mag awards in 2011. Now there’s a story.”

The Globetrotter

Kristi linneBoe, General Manager and Wine Director, Maenam

“I’ve been with Maenam for five years—they’ve been so supportive of me, and I credit all my learning and growth to them. The most impactful thing on my career so far was when I spent three months in Southeast Asia. I did a stage at Nahm in Thailand—Angus An trained there under Chef David Thompson—and I learned how to pair wine with Thai food. Finding matches for fish sauce and lime isn’t always as easy as you’d think.”

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

53

RA 2016

Best New Room

Mosquito

THE STANGHETTA FACTOR It might be presumptuous to already be talking about a front-runner for the 2017 Best New Room award, but based on the buzz it’s generating, Savio Volpe—another masterpiece

by Ste. Marie Art + Design’s Craig Stanghetta—has to be considered the early favourite.

54

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

YES, BIG CAN be beautiful, but the Best New Room in 2016 is Mosquito, a tiny space that’s full of joyful conceit.

The judges all loved the big, bricky Gastown volumes that are so popular of late, but thought it was refreshing to see a lush and plush room made even more intimate by a thoughtful concept from Ste. Marie Art + Design (Bao Bei, Homer Street Café).

Inspired by both a D.H. Lawrence poem and a Proenza Schouler boot, the room’s masculine black leather and art-deco touches contrast with the feminine tactility of the velour curtains. No stingy mosquito bites here—just chocolate ones.

Torafuku is this year’s artfully restrained runner-up. Designed

by Scott and Scott Architects

(Bestie), the room features a longspan concrete table with a single immaculate light—a weighty sculpture with a delicate streak of brightness floating above. A rich blue soft wall made of recycled denim brings a splash of colour—and that allimportant sound absorption we too often ignore in minimalist interiors.

Not a dime is wasted here, but the look is more sensual than spartan.

An honourable mention goes to Tacofino in Gastown, a space meant to evoke a West Coast ’60s handmade vibe: woven “sunset” lamps, Tofino surfer pics, and whitewashed particle board. Designed by Shiloh Sukkau, it’s a room that makes you want to share many cervezas. All that’s missing is an orange beanbag. —BRUCE HADEN

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Mentorship Award

Hamid Salimian

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

a hushed reverence at the pass as cooks plate the first course of a prix fixe meal under chef Hamid Salimian’s watchful eye. This could easily be a scene from any fine dining restaurant, but it’s actually the prelude to a Chef’s Table pop-up dinner hosted by Salimian’s students in the international culinary program at Vancouver Community College.

Salimian started out himself as a VCC culinary arts student back in 1996 before landing an apprenticeship at the Sutton Place Hotel and making his mark in culinary competition. Through it all, he’s been fuelled by curiosity and passion for his craft. “There’s an incredibly high standard that he brings to every project he gets involved with,” says Scott Jaeger, co-owner of The Pear Tree and a fellow member of Culinary Team Canada. “Hamid doesn’t do anything halfway—he’s all in. When you see him around other people, particularly with his students, it’s infectious.”

As its coach, Salimian led Team B.C. to a silver medal at the 2012 World Culinary Olympics, and his mentorship was also key to Alex Chen’s top-10 finish with Canada’s Bocuse d’Or 2013 team. But Salimian is just as supportive of his former colleagues at Diva at the Met, and continues to mentor many of them— including Montgomery Lau (executive chef, Secret Location), Brandon Pirie (chef instructor, Project Chef), and Robert Milhorn (executive sous chef, Boulevard)—as they travel their own culinary paths.

Yet, according to fellow chef instructor Tobias MacDonald, it’s Salimian’s work at his alma mater where he’s making the biggest difference. “He’s inquisitive about the process of cooking instead of taking it for granted, and his approach is a great way of inspiring students. It renews their curiosity and excitement and, deep down, it helps them to realize that there are more possibilities out there.” –JOIE ALVARO KENT

SPONSORED REPORT

A Certain Je Ne Sais Quoi

Reputed sommelier and current Service Director Sebastien Le Goff leads on Cactus Club’s eastward expansion

S

ebastien Le Goff has one word to describe the competition in Toronto: fierce. “You have to want things more than the guy next door,” says Cactus Club’s Service Director who followed the West Coast brand eastward to support its Ontario expansion last year.

Le Goff isn’t new to the big city. The Nantes, France native spent five years in T-Dot before Vancouver’s culinary scene drew him west. “Every chef in Toronto was talking about a few big Vancouver names,” recalls Le Goff, listing Chef Rob Feenie among them. “I always wanted to meet him.”

The rest, as they say, is history. Since the acclaimed sommelier joined Cactus Club in 2011 the Feenie/Le Goff duo have brought fine dining to the masses. “Rob spends a lot of time in the dining room. We build a real relationship between food and wine.”

At Cactus Club both elements emphasize environmental sustainability and locally sourced products. “The menu reflects our proximity to Asia, to the Pacific Ocean and

our partnership with initiatives like Green Table and OceanWise™,” he shares. Local influence also seeps into the contemporary West Coast interior aesthetic with original artwork by B.C. talents like Brent Comber, Graham Gillmore and First Nations carver Beau Dick.

Of course, things are different in Toronto.

The 15,000 square foot First Canadian Place restaurant, which features four distinct concepts, is positioned in the heart of the bustling financial district. “250,000 people work around here Monday to Friday,” tells Le Goff. “It’s like its own city.”

Toronto’s palette is proving to be different too. Experimental items that have seen huge success out east include the Beef Duo, Duck Confit and Niagra wines. But regardless of the location, Cactus Club’s incredible team culture remains consistent. “I’ve never been apart a part of anything like this before,” raves Le Goff—and Toronto has recently added the icing to his Cactus Club cake.

“We just put a Negroni on tap.”

Created by the Vancouver advertising department in partnership with Cactus Club Cafe

Various locations cactusclubcafe.com

PHOTOGRAPHS BY RICK COLLINS (TOP), LUIS VALDIZON (FOOD)

RA 2016

Producer/ Supplier

Grain OF THE YEAR

58

VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

Ingredient OF THE YEAR

Kombu NO, IT’S NOT the best looking thing to come into (and out of) a kitchen, but kelp can add a potent blast of umami to just about any dish—and one that’s far lower in sodium than sea salt. Kombu, a kind of kelp that’s particularly popular in Japanese and Korean cuisine, is a versatile ingredient that can do everything from forming the basis of a broth to complementing a salad.

GRAIN IMAGE COURTESY OF GRAIN; KOMBU: SHUT TERSTOCK

IT’S BEEN SAID that 2016 is the year of the lentil, and this city’s chefs certainly seem to agree—after all, they tapped a company supplying the best lentils on the continent as their Supplier of the Year. Grain—yes, that’s the company’s name—sources dry goods exclusively from Canadian farmers and is used by a wide range of Vancouver’s top restaurants that includes our Best New Restaurant, Royal Dinette.

Scott Jaeger, the president of the Chefs’ Table Society of B.C., says Grain’s ability to deliver products sourced from a single farm to its customers is “a game changer when it comes to putting these items on our menus.” Better still, you can put them on your menu at home and meet all of your various grain and legumerelated needs—we'd suggest trying the French lentils—by visiting their online store at eatgrain.ca.

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RA 2016

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Lifetime Achievement Award

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

John Bishop

It’s one thIng to be a master of your craft. It’s another thing altogether to actually have invented the craft itself. But that’s probably the best way to describe John Bishop and his influence on the food scene in his adopted hometown—and it’s why he’s the recipient of our 2016 Lifetime Achievement Award. “He sets this watermark that nobody can fall below,” says Lee Man, a local food critic and Restaurant Awards judge who’s been eating at Bishop’s since he was a teenager in the mid-’80s. “He helped us understand that our local ingredients have worth and value, and that they’re just as good as anything else around the world.”

His influence on how that food is served is nearly as large—and, according to Restaurant Awards judge David Scholefield, nearly as unusual.

“I could reel off a list of people who are offensive in the way that they try too hard. But it’s genuine with

Bishop. And I learned a big lesson from that, because when you’re relaxed and totally at ease, food tastes better.” Lee Man agrees. “His style informs everything they do there.

The immediate approach is warm, welcoming, and friendly, but there’s this backbone of technique and discipline. He shows that you can do that without being a jerk.”

Ironically, that temperament might help explain why Bishop doesn’t always get the recognition that he deserves. “He doesn’t put himself up for sale,” Man says. “And because of that, it’s easy to forget about him, because he’s a standard-bearer.” That standard, and the fact that it doesn’t need to be spoken—or shouted—out loud, might be Bishop’s biggest legacy of all. “He’s so good at what he does because it’s all understated,” Scholefield says. “But that doesn’t mean it’s less valuable. It might be more valuable.” —MA X FAWCET T

Glassware For All Occasions

570 East Kent Avenue South, Vancouver BC V5X 4V6 • 604-324-7368

RA 2016

Taster’s Choice

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Experiencing the best that Vancouver’s restaurant scene has to offer might sound like a plum gig—and it is. But it’s also one that involves hours of planning, preparing, and partaking in this city’s culinary bounty, not to mention handling the pressure involved with putting one place above (or below) another. Meet the elite team of people that did the delicious dirty work of judging for our 2016 Restaurant Awards.

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Joie Alvaro Kent is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in Best Places Vancouver, this magazine’s Eating & Drinking Guide, and Montecristo and NUVO magazines.

Neal McLennan is the food and travel editor of Western Living, a Vancouver Magazine columnist, and a contributor to Cooking Light, enRoute, and Seattle magazines.

Christina Burridge is a former drinks editor for Vancouver Magazine executive director of the B.C. Seafood Alliance.

Fernando Medrano is a local video game developer who, as he puts it, “develops games between meals.” He tweets about food—and his other passions—from @fmedeats.

Sid Cross is honorary president of the International Wine & Food Society and a co-founder of Chefs’ Table Society of British Columbia. He judges the Gold Medal Plates, Canadian Culinary Championships, and Lieutenant Governor’s Awards for Excellence.

Alexandra Gill is the Vancouver restaurant critic for the Globe and Mail, Vancouver editor of V.v Magazine, and a freelance writer.

She also judges Canada’s 100 Best Restaurants.

DJ Kearney is a sommelier instructor, wine writer, and critic with chef training. She is the head judge of this magazine’s International Wine Awards.

Anya Levykh is the Westender’s resident restaurant critic and a regular guest on CBC Radio One’s On the Coast.

Lee Man’s work has appeared in Vancouver Magazine, EAT, Time Out Vancouver, and Best Places Vancouver. He is also a founding judge of the Chinese Restaurant Awards.

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VA N M A G . C O M M AY 2 0 1 6

Brendon Mathews is a freelance food writer with expertise in Chinese cuisine, and a judge of the Chinese Restaurant Awards.

Robert McCullough is vicepresident of Penguin Random House Canada and the Vancouver-based publisher of its food and lifestyle imprint, Appetite.

Tim Pawsey blogs about food and wine at Hiredbelly.com and contributes to Where Vancouver, the North Shore News, Montecristo, Taste, and the Courier.

Treve Ring is a writer and editor specializing in wine. Her work appears in Montecristo, Sip Northwest, EAT, and Eating & Drinking Guide, and online at Gismondi On Wine, WineAlign, and Scout.

David Scholefield is a wine expert and consultant. He is also vice-president of strategy for Trialto Wine Group.

Shelora Sheldan is a writer and editor whose work appears in Western Living, EAT, Yam,

Salt, and Eating & Drinking Guide. She also blogs at Cookingwithabroad.com.

Mia Stainsby is the restaurant critic, food writer, and Word of Mouth food blogger for the Vancouver Sun. Stephen Wong is a food and wine writer and consultant, cookbook author, and founding chair and judge of the Chinese Restaurant Awards.

Iris Yim is a founding judge of the Chinese Restaurant Awards. She writes for Gourmetvancouver.com and Taiyang-bao.ca.

Thanks as well to our Best New Design judges: Anicka Quin, editor-in-chief of Western Living; Juli Hodgson, Western Living’s 2012 Interior Designer of the Year; Bruce Haden, principal at Bruce Haden Architect; and Paul Roelofs, art director of Vancouver Magazine and Western Living.

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Globe & Mail – Beppi Crosariol Haywire Switchback Pinot Gris

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THANK YOU TO OUR 2016 RESTAURANT AWARDS

CRAFT BEER SHOWCASE SPONSORS:

THE

BY ALEXANDRA GILL

The traditional structures of the restaurant business don’t work for women.”

K ARRI SCHUERMANS, CHAMBAR

PH OTO S BY E VA A N K H ER A J

FACTOR 64

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The restaurant industry has traditionally been hostile to the needs and aspirations of women.

Here’s how a new generation of leaders is trying to change that I try hard to let the women who work for us know that they can express their womanhood.”

MEERU DHALWALA, VIJ’S, RANGOLI

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THE XX FACTOR

I think women in the workplace are a bit more no-nonsense.

We just get it done.”

JILL SPOOR, FAIRMONT PACIFIC RIM

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LET ME TELL you a story about the appalling lack of women in the top tiers of Vancouver’s restaurant industry. Wait, was that a yawn?

It’s okay—I initially rolled my eyes at the idea too. After all, we know that the culinary world is still a bloody sexist boys’ club, where screaming bullies run rampant. But how do we make this hoary old chestnut palatable, I wondered, without sounding like shrieking shrews?

Then I thought about all the Earls girls who were only recently informed that they are allowed to wear pants at work—and all the servers at other restaurants who are still required to wear obnoxiously short skirts and heels. I thought about the female restaurant critic who once asked me—in all seriousness— about an award-winning chef I was profiling: “Didn’t she just sleep her way to the top?” I thought about the young chef in training who should have won a contest I judged last year. She couldn’t handle the heat of the kitchen, the head judge reasoned, while persuading the others to change their scores.

Then there are horror stories that must be told about verbal abuse and sexual assault on the job, even in this day and age. Last summer, Toronto pastry chef Kate Burnham went public after filing a harassment complaint with the Ontario Human Rights Tribunal. In addition to being groped in the crotch, smacked on the rear, and badgered about her sex life, she said she was routinely sprayed in the face with pressurized cans of hollandaise sauce by a male coworker, who jokingly likened the creamy projectile to porn-style cum shots.

The worst part about that case? No one who had ever worked in the industry was shocked.

Yes, it galvanized widespread discussion about such sordid behaviour, and led to a sold-out conference called Kitchen Bitches: Smashing the Patriarchy One Plate at a Time. But what happens after we sweep up the shattered remains of all that shame and fury? This is the point where the real work begins, when we must roll up our sleeves and put the pieces back together into more durable vessels.

Now that I have your attention, I would like to tell you some stories about local women who are quietly cooking up a revolution, rearranging the floor plans and devising practical solutions to help bridge the culinary gender gap and drag the restaurant industry out of the Stone Age.

THE XX FACTOR

UPWARD MOBILITY

Kitchens run by women are generally perceived to be kinder, gentler, quieter places.”

We can complain all we want about the lack of women in the upper levels of the restaurant industry, but the only real way to change that reality is by hiring more women—and, more importantly, promoting them. Sometimes, it takes a sympathetic man to get the ball rolling. Take the Fairmont Pacific Rim Hotel, for instance. When Philip Barnes was made general manager in 2011, he immediately started placing women in leadership roles.

Today, he is the regional vice-president for the Pacific Northwest, and nearly 75 percent of his leadership group (approximately 60 positions) is female. “I don’t have a bias one way or the other,” he says. “I just want the best person for the job.”

Jill Spoor is a prime example. Hired shortly before Barnes, she was promoted from supervising sommelier for Giovane, the hotel’s Italian wine bar, to assistant manager, manager, and then hotel wine director (a new position). She now oversees the entire regional wine program, and all the people on her hotel wine teams, save one, are women. “It has become a very efficient property,” she says. “We all laugh about it—we actually cackle—but I think women in the workplace are a bit more no-nonsense. We just get it done.”

EMOTIONAL RESCUE

Burdock & Co.’s Andrea Carlson gives her employees plenty of flexibility— and those employees, like Gabriella Meyer (pictured), have repaid her loyalty in kind.

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Kitchens run by women are generally perceived to be kinder, gentler, quieter places. That was certainly the way Meeru Dhalwala decided to run hers when she and Vikram Vij opened Vij’s, and later Rangoli. “I never wanted to behave like a male chef,” she says. “The kitchen was my cocoon. And within my four walls, I was determined to create the world that I would wish to work in. The first rule was, ‘No yelling.’”

Outside those four walls, however, there were different expectations. “Once, I was in a managers’ meeting and a guy said to me, ‘Why are you crying?’ He was genuinely perplexed. I said, ‘This is how I deal with my anger: my eyes well up. Why don’t you ask a man why he yells?’”

Emotions are not a weakness, she says. “This is where I’ve had the benefit of being the owner and the boss. I try hard to let the women who work for us know that they can express their womanhood.”

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he story goes that upon seeing her new rustic settings, Major Hugh Fraser’s wife ditched town (and her husband) with no more than a curt “see ya later”.

The original proprietor planted vines—and a history—upon her departure, not once regretting his decision to stay behind.

Perched high atop the sun-soaked slopes of the South Okanagan and overlooking Skaha Lake, See Ya Later Ranch has made a name for itself as a must stop on any Okanagan getaway. New winemaker David Saysomsack, who refers to last year’s harvest as “one to remember” believes that guests are in for a particular treat this year.

“The site and elevation of the vineyards allowed the grapes to take full advantage of the hot summer days while allowing for cooler nights during the ripening season,” shares Saysomsack, who has previously worked at wineries across North America and in New Zealand. “The white wines are vibrant and flavourful and the red wines are rich and deep,” he says. “The aromatics almost jump right out of the glass.”

New this year SYL is offering regular food and wine pairing events, where experienced wine educators guide guests through the art and science of pairing perfectly matched bites with five award-winning wines. The events— which run daily through peak summer season—will replace the historical vineyard tour, equipping guests with a bit of entertaining expertise to take home. For more information on these and other winery events visit sylranch.com.

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THE XX FACTOR IF YOU LOVE SOMEONE, SET THEM FREE

Restaurants can be challenging places to work, given both the long hours and hard labour they require and the time off that almost never materializes for most employees. “If you don’t absolutely love it, it will suck your soul dry,” says Andrea Carlson, the chef/owner of Burdock & Co. and Harvest Community Foods.

But Carlson is determined to create a workplace environment that is as organic and respectful as the food she cooks, which is why she offers her kitchen staff extended time off— up to five weeks at a time. “In most kitchens, they say ‘the schedule is the schedule, go screw yourself,’” Carlson says. “Five weeks is a bit of a stretch for a small restaurant kitchen, but we have a great group of people that we can call on to pick up shifts. We try to be as flexible as we can.”

Gabriella Meyer is one employee who took advantage of the unusual perk, and she travelled to India every year. But when she decided to commit to staying in Vancouver full-time, Carlson offered her the chance to buy a piece of Harvest and come on as part owner. Given that, it’s probably no coincidence that Meyer’s employees happen to be all women.

CREATIVE ACCOUNTING

Maternity leave benefits in Canada are already meager for salary workers who aren’t being topped up by their employers—which is to say, most of them. For restaurant workers earning unclaimed tips and a less-thanminimum base wage, meanwhile, they’re even worse. But one local restaurant has come up with a novel solution that allows some of their most valuable employees to keep their tips and earn a “managerial” wage too. “They give their cash tips to our controller, who adds it onto the payroll,” says the restaurant owner, who requested anonymity

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to avoid the wrath of the Canadian Revenue Agency. “We do an average calculation based on their weekly tip earnings and roll it up into a higher hourly wage.”

There is a small cost to the business in the form of additional contributions to EI and CPP. But when the employees apply for maternity benefits—or a mortgage—they can show what they actually earn. “If we can help an employee have a better life, and earn their loyalty by caring about them, it’s worth going that extra step,” says the restaurant owner.

“If we want to keep women in this industry, there needs to be room for them to have children.”

POST-LABOUR RELATIONS

What happens after the baby is born?

Without decent maternity leave, many restaurant employees return to work shortly after giving birth and are expected to fulfill the duties of the job “as it exists.” But these aren’t desk jobs, and most require a lot of running around and heavy lifting, which is almost impossible for someone with a traumatized pelvic floor and leaking breasts. “The physical demands aren’t realistic for new mothers,” says Chambar’s Karri Schuermans.

That’s why, in order to avoid losing her executive chef to motherhood, Schuermans offered her a job-sharing arrangement. Before Tia Kambas went on leave, she trained a male souschef to do her job. When she returned, he stayed on the line and she took on the administrative role, working fewer hours per day (eight, rather than 10), often from home. “It’s about being creative,” says Schuermans, who notes that similar arrangements could be made for servers (doing inventory) or bartenders (working on recipe development). “The traditional structures of the restaurant business don’t work for women. There has to be flexibility and new organic models that make it work.”

SPONSORED REPORT

CHEF’S PICK

Local chefs dish on their distinct, palate-pleasing plates and details.

Join us in their kitchens to hear from these talented chefs and visit VanMag.com/ChefsPick to check out the video!

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Browns Socialhouse is the place to go to socialize. Kick back with friends on our patios, gather around the bar, or grab a comfortable booth and enjoy our energetic service. Our food is authentic, right from the fresh pressed juice in your drink to the HCDC french fries with your meal. We specialize in making you feel as comfortable as your own living room, but without the dog hair. Each and every location is locally owned and operated.

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While perhaps best known for the extraordinary views from its perch atop Grouse Mountain, the behind-the-scenes magic happens in the kitchen. Chefs embrace local, seasonal ingredients to drive The Observatory’s menu, including honey from the Mountain’s alpine hives and herbs from the on-site garden. Enjoy a fresh perspective.

THE OBSERVATORY 6400 Nancy Greene Way, North Vancouver 604.980.9311 observatoryrestaurant.ca

Located in Gastown, Nicli Antica Pizzeria is the first Neapolitan certified pizzeria in Vancouver. Chef Tozer’s menu highlights the season’s freshest ingredients while honouring the culinary traditions from the Nicli family, and the touchstones of Italian culture—family, authenticity, and delicious food and wine.

NICLI ANTICA PIZZERIA 62 East Cordova St., Vancouver 604.669.6985 niclipizzeria.com

An authentic Mexican place full of fresh and delicious dishes located in the heart of downtown, presenting The CEVICHE, fresh citrus marinated scallops mixed with smoked prawns and fresh cod, with a touch of cilantro a drizzle of chipotle mayo and home made tostadas, perfect for this summer.

THE MEXICAN 1049 Granville St., Vancouver 604.569.0955 themexican.ca

Tipping annoys customers, inflames tensions between co-workers, undermines restaurant owners, and has no measurable impact on service.

So why can’t we get rid of it?

e th

tippi ng t n i o p TT HWILER FAWCE GENSC

BY MA X RON EG Y B Y B R AT I O N ILLUST

Nevada Cope swears that her new restaurant’s name wasn’t chosen with any kind of deliberate irony in mind.

Still, it’s hard to ignore the fact that her West End eatery, Ritual, will be the first restaurant in Vancouver to eliminate tipping—which happens to be one of the most well-established dining rituals we have in North America. Like most rituals, the practice of tipping has transcended its original purpose and become something closer to a reflex than a conscious choice. But ritual or not, Cope decided that it was time for tipping to go. She knows it won’t be easy. “People are kind of scared for me, because it’s putting the burden on the restaurant instead of the customer. But it’s the right thing to do—it should be up to the employer to take care of their employees and make sure they’re getting paid properly. It shouldn’t have to be the customer that makes that call.”

That’s certainly what Danny Meyer thinks. Meyer, who’s something of a legend within the New York restaurant scene, did away with tipping at all 13 of his

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the tipping point Union Square Hospitality Group’s full-service restaurants in November. He’s no stranger to shaking up his industry, either. In a piece for Eater last October, Ryan Sutton noted that Meyer and his restaurants were ahead of a number of other major social trends that did, in time, affect the rest of the hospitality industry. His most famous—and famously unpopular—such move was to ban smoking, a decision that turned out to be prescient. Given that, Sutton wrote, “If Meyer thinks we’d all be better off without tipping, he’s probably got a good reason for it.”

The biggest reason of all, according to Meyer, is that it eliminates a longstanding imbalance between what those who work in the front of house and those who work in the kitchen take home each night. As he told Eater’s Sutton, “I hate those Saturday nights where the whole dining room is high-fiving because they just set a record, and they’re counting their shekels, and the kitchen just says, ‘Well boy, did we sweat tonight.’”

Cope, too, comes at the issue from a cook’s perspective. “I’ve always seen the servers walk away with hundreds of bucks while the kitchen gets tipped out, like, $10. It’s not really fair.”

Fairness aside, that imbalance in wages between the front and back of the house is also leading to a major shortage of skilled cooks. As Meyer told Eater, “We’re in a day and age where there are more talented cooks than there ever have been, but fewer of them who want to live in New York to start a fine-dining career.” According to Chambar’s Karri Schuermans, the skills shortage in Vancouver’s kitchens might be even worse. “It’s really bad. Not only are there a lot of restaurants opening, but a lot of people just can’t afford to live in Vancouver. We’re losing so many staff that are in their late twenties and early thirties.”

That’s partially a reflection of both the high cost of housing here and changes to the temporary foreign worker program that make it difficult (if not impossible) to bring in help from outside the country, but the fact that local cooks are earning substantially less than servers doesn’t help. Schuermans’s husband, Nico, is a chef himself, and, she says, he “knows that it’s not fair for guys who are generally working more hours than a server to walk away at the end of the day with less when they’re just as passionate about working hard.” That’s why Chambar is trying to chart a middle ground between Meyer’s notipping orthodoxy and business as usual. By increasing the percentage of a given evening’s sales that the front of house staff have to share with the back, she says, she

and her husband have created an environment in which everyone’s incentives are aligned. “People don’t come to us and say that someone else isn’t doing their jobs. They call them out on it because they’re sharing income.”

But according to Bruce McAdams, an assistant professor at the University of Guelph’s School of Hospitality and Tourism Management (and someone with more than two decades of experience in the hospitality industry himself), that sense of common purpose at Chambar isn’t very, well, common. “Tipping promotes this mercenary, individual goal-oriented perspective for the server,” he says. “I was a server, and you could see how that played out in the industry.” Indeed, that’s exactly what David Jones, owner of a Parksville restaurant called Smoke ’n Water that experimented with a notipping policy in 2014, saw after he was forced to pull the plug on it. “When I switched back, it wasn’t two days before you could tell the difference. Where before everybody was pulling together, it was suddenly us against them—the servers can’t get it right, and the cooks can’t put it out fast enough.”

I’ve always seen servers walk away with hundreds of bucks while the kitchen gets tipped out, like, $10. It’s not really fair.”

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All of this might be an acceptable cost of doing business if tipping had a meaningful and measurable impact on the quality of service that customers receive. But as Amanda Cohen, chef and owner of the award-winning New York restaurant Dirt Candy, argued in a piece for Eater back in 2014, it doesn’t—not even close. “Servers wearing white shirts get higher tips than servers wearing red shirts. Blonde waiters make bigger tips than brunette waiters. Waiters who draw a smiley face on the check get better tips, unless they’re men, in which case they make worse tips. Black waiters make lower tips than white waiters. If there was a shred of research that showed tipping was a rational process, I would be all for it, but the research shows that tipping makes no sense.”

Bruce McAdams, who’s done plenty of that research himself, agrees. “It makes no sense to any of the stakeholders, other than the server. And nothing against the server, because they provide great value in the dining experience. But unfortunately, their compensation— based on our research, and other people’s research—shows them taking a disproportionate amount of the wage pie out of the system.”

There’s also the fact that, from the restaurant owner’s perspective, it puts a substantial portion of their revenue in the hands of the consumer. “If I’m buying an airline

2010

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Crowe MacKay, official accountants of the Vancouver Magazine Restaurant awards, congratulates the nominees and winners of this year’s awards.

Craig Elliott, CPA, CGA, MBA, Certified Chef, craig.elliott@crowemackay.ca Heather Loblaw, CPA, CA, heather.loblaw@crowemackay.ca 1100 - 1177 West Hastings St. | Vancouver, BC | (604) 687.4511

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ticket,” McAdams says, “WestJet isn’t going to give me an option on where I can take 15 percent of the cost and distribute it.” And with ever-increasing food and labour costs cutting into the already prosciutto-thin profit margins at most restaurants, anything that could increase the top line ought to be up for consideration. But, McAdams says, it’s difficult to find anyone who’s willing to put their money—well, their servers’ tips—where their mouth is.

“I’ve had this talk with VPs, CEOs, and directors, and they cannot argue my point. They’re like, ‘You’re right— but we’re not going to be the first.’”

If Meyer thinks we’d all be better off without tipping, he’s probably got a good reason for it.”

2016-03-17 11:36 AM

OLD WORLD ELEGANCE...

NEW WORLD EDGE!

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the tipping point

That’s why everyone’s eyes are on Danny Meyer’s big experiment. He’s uniquely qualified to take the risk, given that his stake in Shake Shack— the popular comfort-food chain that went public early last year—makes him a very, very rich man. “If it backfires, he’s losing millions—he’s not losing his billions,” McAdams says. “But now that Danny Meyer has done this, the amount of attention that I’m hearing from people is incredible. Where I would have been laughed out of a room three years ago, people want to listen to what I have to say about tipping now.”

As for what diners in Vancouver will have to say about Nevada Cope’s no-tipping experiment? She thinks that, in time, they’ll buy in too. “It’s going to take a while for customers to get into this mindset. And then it’s really going to take off.”

You Are Invited A

EVENT

TALK WITH YOUR MOUTH FULL Vancouver Magazine and Vancouver Community College’s team of culinary experts challenge restaurants across the city on the hottest topics in the food industry.

Be a part of the discussion:

“Commitment to Conscious Sourcing”

Demystifying food industry jargon hosted by Earls Yaletown

Visit VanMag.com/FoodSeries for ticket information and to find out which restaurant will be next!!

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A PASSION FOR PERFORMANCE, NATURALLY.

RAISING THE BAR For over three decades, Toptable Goup has redefined elegant yet approachable dining. In 2015, several milestones were celebrated including the 25th anniversary of CinCin Ristorante, and the 15th anniversary of Blue Water Cafe and West Restaurant.

The most exciting milestone may be the opening of Bar Oso and The Cellar by Araxi, as Toptable Group again changed the hospitality landscape of Whistler.

Bar Oso provides Spanish-influenced small plates and hand-crafted cocktails while The Cellar by Araxi offers a private dining space for more than 60 guests.

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S P R I N G F A S H I O N ' S M U S T- H AV E S / T H E A D U LT U N I F O R M

i This free-standing rock in Lepas Bay is only accessible via float plane or boat, and sits on the west coast of Haida Gwaii in an area primarily reserved for local youth camps.

T H E D E S T I NAT I ON

CURTIS GUEST

(Really) Beautiful B.C.

T

TAKE THE VERY ESSENCE of the Pacific Northwest, concentrate it in one area, and you get close to understanding Haida Gwaii. The Haida people have occupied the islands for over 13,000 years, and still make up almost half of the population today. But this isn’t a place to check off boxes on your tourist to-do list; it demands a type of patience, rewarding curious visitors with insights into local history that can't be found on Trip Advisor. Maybe some transient orcas will pass by as you sit outside Jags Beanstalk coffee shop, or maybe you’ll look at some fallen trees only to realize the moss-covered logs used to house the Haida thousands of years ago. Just know that Haida Gwaii has a story to tell at every turn if you're willing to wait—and ready to listen.

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T H E D E S T I NAT I ON

The Itinerary Split your time between the north and south islands to truly get a sense of Haida Gwaii. Prepare to travel by float plane and boat when required—the visitor centre in the village of Queen Charlotte will point you in the right direction

Most lodgings on the islands are a combination of B&Bs and tiny dining rooms. Make sure to stop by these local favourites.

The Haida House at Tllaal has 10 guest rooms and focuses on fresh, local seafood from their sister company, Haida Wild Seafood— like spot prawns from Cumshewa Inlet and Dungeness crab from the nearby beach. Reservations are required, so call ahead before you make the trip to Tlell for one of their

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feasts. haidahouse.com Author Susan Musgrave’s Copper Beech Guest House, located at the northern tip of Haida Gwaii in Masset, is a quirky and cozy lodge frequented by the likes of Margaret Atwood. Expect squishy sofas and full bookcases, as well as handmade delights like Haida Gwaii threeberry pie (as found in Musgrave’s cookbook: Haida Gwaii: Foraging and Feasting at the Edge of the World). copperbeechhouse.com

HAIDA HOUSE: DIRK HE YDEMANN

Eat & Sleep

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Five Sails Modern classics and spectacular views in an elegant waterfront setting

Proprietors – Gerry Sayers & Chef Ernst Dorfler

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he Billowing white sails of Canada Place mark the spot where award-winning cuisine and AAA Four Diamond service meet in an utterly magical setting.

Husband and wife team, Chef Ernst Dorfler and Gerry Sayers, bring years of experience to Five Sails, skillfully fusing modern, continental cuisine with European and global influences and warm, inviting hospitality to cultivate a memorable dining experience like none other. “We are able to bring the best of both worlds to our guests,” says Gerry, “balancing a breathtaking hotel setting with the personal touches that only come with private proprietorship.” This year marks the ninth anniversary of Ernst and Gerry taking over sole ownership of this waterfront gem.

Dramatically situated at the luxurious Pan Pacific Hotel, the striking room has been custom-designed to perfectly compliment the breathtaking backdrop of the inner harbour, Stanley Park and the Coast Mountains visible from the large bay windows. A chic lounge area with elevated banquettes, contemporary bar and cozy fireplace offers a relaxed atmosphere to sample from the inspired menu, while the dining room exudes an understated elegance. Just steps from the new Vancouver Convention Centre, Five Sails boasts an elegant and totally exclusive 20-seat private dining room, making it the ultimate setting for locals and visitors alike to host intimate functions or special celebrations.

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Roasted Brome Lake duck breast

that have cultivated a strong loyal following. Showcasing the mastery that made him an internationally acclaimed Culinary Olympic World Champion, his signature mountain-style raviolis stuffed with spinach, herbs and ricotta then finished with a drizzle of hazelnut brown butter harkens back to Chef Dorfler’s Austrian childhood. The innovative “Catch!,” a veritable cornucopia of fresh half Atlantic lobster, caramelized Weathervane scallop and a line-caught catch of the day enrobed in a lemongrass sauce perfumed with coconut, displays world-class passion and artistry. Sommelier Ramon Fresneda always brings impressive knowledge and unpretentious flair in providing optimal wine pairings from a list consistently honoured with the Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRUCE LAW (LEFT), PAUL JOSEPH (FOOD)

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T H E D E S T I NAT I ON

k The Pesuta Shipwreck Hike

Location: East Beach Time: 4 hours Terrain: Forest and beach* * Make sure to plan your hike around low tide

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l Spirit Lake Trail Hike

Location: Skidegate Time: 2 hours Terrain: Forest and boardwalks

p Golden Spruce Trail Hike

Location: Port Clements Time: 45 minutes Terrain: Paths

THE GOLDEN SPRUCE was made famous by John Vaillant’s 2006 book of the same name, telling the story of how Grant Hadwin came to fell the 300-year-old tree before disappearing forever.

“The book is an expression of my amazement of Haida Gwaii,” says Vaillant. “Tourists sometimes go up and just bounce off the outside; it’s not a place that reveals itself that obviously. It’s subtle.”

PESUTA SHIPWRECK: FL AVIEN MABIT; GOLDEN SPRUCE TRAIL AND SPIRIT L AKE TRAIL: GUY KIMOL A

Take your time exploring Haida Gwaii with these three hiking routes

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Welcome to Vancouver Magazine ’s first-ever neighbourhood ranking. We crunched the most vital and current livability numbers—from green space to property crime—for all 39 neighbourhoods in Vancouver, West Vancouver, and North Vancouver, andRESTAURANT fed them intoFINDER our online calculator. Since searchgreat by name, neighbourhood, or cuisine neighbourhoods are a matter of personal taste, you can find your perfect corner of our city by OR USE ADVANCED SEARCH CUISINE SEARCH emphasizing the categories that matter to you.

See more at VanMag.com/BestNeighbourhoods

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PE R S ONA L S PAC E

By Design LIZ BELL KNOWS a thing or two about beauty. As a former model, one-time muse to Karl Lagerfeld, and the driving force behind one of Vancouver’s biggest modelling agencies, she’s been immersed in the subject for most of her life. It shouldn’t come as a surprise, then, that her West Vancouver home reflects her flair for all things beautiful. But while she’s made her living in a world that trades on trends, she says her home is a refuge from that pressure.

“Growing up in South Africa, we didn’t have television for years because it was banned, so we didn’t have trends. I grew up in a house full of antiques and big huge family portraits and things like that, and I’ve always believed that if you like something you keep it forever.” That, she says, includes her house. “People always say to me, ‘If you’re going to sell your house, please let me know—because I want to buy it.’ But nope, I’m not selling it.”

By MAX FAWCETT // Photo by DAVID STRONGMAN

London (and Milan) Calling Bell manages models around the world, and that means working strange, time-zone– determined hours. A home off ice is therefore a professional necessity, but she still treats her house as a retreat from work rather than an extension of it. “It’s really important to be able to switch off, at least for a little bit. When I get home from the agency I shed my ‘fashion skin’ and throw on my gardening or happy clothes and immerse myself in the garden or in creating a delicious dinner. That is my therapy, my catharsis.”

All in the Family The house might be a work of art itself, but it’s also full of the stuff—and many of the paintings that hang inside it were done by her husband, artist David Burns. “He’s a great influence in my life,” she says. “He helps me to see the beauty in things, and to slow down and smell the roses. I do tend to be somebody who is a doer rather than a smell-the-roses person.”

Rock Solid Bell’s house is custom-built on a piece of land—a “rock,” she says—that she and her ex-husband bought in 1986, and it’s finished with wood they collected in Howe Sound and milled on-site. And because the location leaves the house exposed to the elements, they decided to build the central structure out of concrete instead of wood. “When the Squamish wind is blowing and the house is bearing the brunt of the whole storm, you want to be surrounded by strong walls,” she says.

I’ve always believed that if you like something you keep it forever.”

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T H E HOT TA K E

By AMANDA ROSS

Blossoming Trends Spring has sprung, and that means you should expect blush pinks and florals galore on shelves around the city. Here are some of May’s newest bunch of must-haves

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1. Frank & Oak pairs up with Naked & Famous Denim for a 13-piece capsule collection of knit tops, woven shirts, jackets, and jeans, from $95. frankandoak.com 2. For retro glam in gold inlay acetate

(with $5 benefitting single-mothers charity Cause We Care), there’s the locally designed C4 Grace sunglasses, $145. claudiaalan.com/c4

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3. Seoul Fashion Week recently debuted Ti:baeg; Vancouver's Middle Sister is the only store in North America to carry it. Bouquet dress, $450. middlesister.ca 4. Cookware, bakeware, and dinnerware in signature whimsy—the new Kate Spade New York All in Good Taste kitchen line, from $10. indigo.ca

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5. For all-natural ingredients that actually perform, try cult-favourite mineral cosmetic line Youngblood, from $14. londondrugs.com

BEES K NEES THERE’S A BUZZ this month as J.Crew launches its limited edition partnership with London-based illustrator, Marcel George, to produce the artist’s hand-painted watercolour tees and pocket squares, with 50 percent of sales going towards conservation charity, Buglife.

Meanwhile, Burt’s Bees introduces their new lipstick in 14 shades just in time for a Mother’s Day partnership with Pink Tartan to benefit Wildlife Preservation Canada. The sale of Pink Tartan’s new tee comes with two lipsticks and the planting of 10,000 wildflowers to help support sustainability.

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k J.Crew pocket square, $10. jcrew.com j Pink Tartan Tee + lipsticks, $52.50. HProject, holtrenfrew.com

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T R I A L + E R ROR

By JENNI ELLIOTT

Back to Basics It might work for kids at school, but could wearing the same outfit to work every day really be a good thing?

The Claim

Saatchi & Saatchi art director Matilda Kahl waved goodbye to office fashion critics in her Harper’s Bazaar piece, “Why I Wear the Exact Same Thing to Work Every Day.” Why? Because her take on a “female suit”—15 pairs of black pants and 15 white silk blouses—relieved “the extensive pressure on women to uphold a flawless appearance.”

The idea has now made it all the way from New York to the West Coast suburb of Coquitlam, where Mayor Richard Stewart wore the same suit to work every day for over a year and no one noticed.

The inspiration behind his experiment? “I want my daughters to grow up in a society where they’re judged on how well they do their job and not what they were wearing when they did it.”

The Trial

The early returns were mixed.

“Very chic,” my (male) editor commented on day one of my experiment. “Did you not make it home last night?” a female colleague commented on day two (how rude). That pattern would continue. Each day, another female in my office would glance sideways at my white shirt and black pant combo—despite my efforts to jazz it up with varied accessories and the occasional scarf—and each day I would laugh as the men in my office failed to notice. I couldn’t work out whether I should be offended or not, so halfway through my 30-day trial, I asked a fellow Van Mag editor if he had observed I had been wearing the same outfit or two weeks. “No, I didn’t,” he said. “Does that make me more of a feminist?”

The Verdict

Do it. Besides the perk of being able to get dressed quickly each morning, wearing a uniform to work meant I wasn’t concerned with how I looked that day (for the record: the same as every other day). And when I took it off at night, it felt so, so good. (“Honey, I’m ho-ome”-style good.) The downside was that I had to iron my shirt each morning, and the pants I chose had a wide hem that narrowed down my footwear choices. The obvious path is to find a reasonably-priced outfit that suits you, and then buy a bunch of backups, Zuckerberg-style. But there’s no need to go all Matilda Kahl about it (she dropped a few thousand dollars on her new wardrobe). One rule, though: No yoga pants unless you work in a yoga studio. Deal?

i Montana blouse, $60 j Cohen pant, $145

The Uniform

Vancouver’s uniform of choice—all Aritzia, all the time 88

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j Lenny sweater, $195

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Vancouver Specialist

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Gone, But Not Forgotten How falling in love with a restaurant can be a dangerous thing— and why it’s still worth the trouble 90

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By CHARLES DEMERS

JUST A SINGLE COOKIE was enough to transport Marcel Proust back to his childhood. And if my two-year-old ever wants to relive her final days in utero, she need only pop into the Jambo Grill. Of course, Proust was retrieving the sense memories of a childhood in Belle Époque France—slightly more romantic ground than Kingsway and Joyce. But this particular address has been producing the city’s finest IndoAfrican fare for years now.

I first happened across it as an undergrad, when the spot was something closer to a snack counter called Good Morning Panwalla. The transformation to a mid-range dining room called Jambo began during my hiatus as a customer—a hiatus owing largely to my having married a very brilliant and beautiful woman whose only real flaw was an almost total aversion to spicy foods. But in one of the physiological mysteries (and miracles) of pregnancy, my wife shed her G-rated seasoning palate once she was with child, and we—well, I— took full advantage. By the time the baby was two weeks overdue, we were actively seeking out spicy treats as a labour-inducing aid of urban legend.

In the end, it took synthetic oxytocin, rather than pakoras, to evict our daughter from her amniotic suite, but we’d done our our very damnedest at Jambo to get things started.

Well, Jambo and one other beloved restaurant: Café Kathmandu, where we dined at least weekly on Nepalese delicacies prepared just a few blocks from our home, in a restaurant owned and operated by an old friend and political comrade. One of my favourite photos of my pregnant beloved was taken against the bright yellow wall next to our table at Café Kathmandu.

After joining us all on the outside, our daughter, too, became a regular, crawling around on the floor and making the place her own, including

Two years old is pretty young to already have a domaine perdu, but my daughter is already learning one of the sad lessons of city life: today’s favourite restaurant is tomorrow’s wistful memory. on the night we booked it for her grandfather’s 60th birthday.

But there is no Proustian mnemonic shortcut available to her in this regard, because Café Kathmandu is no longer with us, having closed its doors at the end of February. Two years old is pretty young to already have a domaine perdu, but my daughter is already learning one of the sad lessons of city life: today’s favourite restaurant is tomorrow’s wistful memory. No more Cannery; no more Brave Bull’s. My kid will never even get to try, let alone forget, Rime, the Commercial Drive Turkish-fusion spot where her dad learned how to do stand-up comedy, and whose head chef and cook catered her parents’ wedding at cost as a gift.

The only comfort to be taken is the knowledge that we can gorge on those still with us; that the disappearance of old favourites is almost always matched by the emergence of new ones; and that we’ll forever have our memories of what came before. Though it’s been transformed, there are still a few small, subtle spots on the walls at Jambo that say “Good Morning Panwalla.”

Charles Demers is a local comedian, writer, and the author of Vancouver Special

by Ashish P.

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