Rodes Fall/Winter 2019

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R od e s FORUM/THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE/FW 2019

R o d e s F W 2 0 1 9 F O R U M

GOOD JEANS GET THE BEST DENIM LOOKS

/ T H E S U B S T A N C E

TUX TIME THE PERFECT FIT

O F S T Y L E

Fall FEVER

R O D E S . C O M

THE HOTTEST COLD-WEATHER FASHION

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CONTENTS

fall/ winter 2019

FEATURES FALL FEVER

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You know the symptoms: You ache to put away the polos and put on the hottest cold-weather styles.

AWASH IN DENIM

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Low-slung or high-waisted? Raw hem or embellished? Black or bleached? With so many options, you are bound to find more than one perfect pair.

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COLD FRONT

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The season’s outerwear forecast calls for a mix of textures and weights. Prepare to keep warm, dry and looking fly, no matter what Mother Nature has planned.

DEPARTMENTS Memo

4

Specialty stores are the future!

The Rodes Guide

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AG’s premium denim…Herno outerwear...Rodes’ style pro Suzi Tipton... and much more. 8

Ask Jim

Fashion tips every man can appreciate. 10

Must-Haves for Men

From paisley ties to suede boots, Rodes has the essentials you need for the season. 38

Ask Susan

Your seasonal style questions are answered. 40

Must-Haves for Women

Stock up on fall’s best knitwear, scarves, gloves, handbags, boots and more. 48

Final Stitch

Every man can look incredible in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one.

ON THE COVER: On her: blue velvet robe dress by Chiara Boni, earrings by Jenny Bird. On him: suit, shirt and tie by Isaia, bracelet by Tateossian.

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WELCOME

the

Rodes

RODES 4938 Brownsboro Rd. Louisville, KY 40222 502.753.RODES (7633) rodes.com

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Rita Guarna CREATIVE DIRECTOR Stephen Vitarbo SENIOR EDITOR Daria Meoli SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Darius Amos LIFESTYLE EDITOR Haley Longman ART DIRECTOR Victoria Beall EDITOR-AT-LARGE, FOUNDING EDITOR Karen Alberg Grossman PUBLISHING STAFF GROUP PUBLISHER Shae Marcus NATIONAL BRAND MANAGER Monica Delli Santi PROJECT MANAGER Lisa Menghi ADVERTISING SERVICES DIRECTOR Jacquelynn Fischer GRAPHIC DESIGNER, AD SERVICES Violeta Mulaj PRODUCTION ART ASSOCIATE Chris Ferrante

Why specialty stores are the future! There is still something to be said for being able to see, touch, taste and smell things. It’s how we’ve lived for thousands of years, and the idea that the internet could cannibalize retail entirely is nonsense. People go to independent stores because, at the end of the day, they want opinions and answers that are fast and dependable from people they know, like and trust. Quality equals price, and price should always reflect quality. As the digital age seems to engulf us, looking at new avenues to learn and grow is important and must be part of any good business strategy, but maintaining real relationships with you and developing connections with the next generation is still the best way to run our business for the long term. We have been serving Louisville, our home, since 1914 and can’t wait to see you soon! See you around town,

ACCOUNTING Agnes Alves, Megan Frank, Randall Tashjian PUBLISHED BY CHAIRMAN Carroll V. Dowden PRESIDENT & CEO Mark Dowden SENIOR VICE PRESIDENTS Shae Marcus, Carl Olsen VICE PRESIDENTS Nigel Edelshain, Thomas Flannery, Rita Guarna

RODES magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656, in association with RODES. Copyright © 2019 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, RODES, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656; telephone 201.782.5730; email rita.guarna@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, RODES Circulation Department, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

Susan and Howard Vogt

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GUIDE

the

Rodes

The Godfather… of PREMIUM DENIM

Meet SUZI TIPTON

Denim was once the stuff for weekends and casual Fridays. But today, a great-fitting pair of jeans with superb construction and contemporary styling is as much a wardrobe cornerstone as a navy suit. Enter AG. This Los Angelesbased denim company offers historically high-quality, long-lasting garments and produces them in an environmentally friendly way—AG uses just .3 percent of the water that a typical denim manufacturer uses per day. So, what does AG stand for? Atlanta Georgia? Attorney General? AvantGarde? Andy Garcia? Nope, the brand is named after the Italian fashion designer and reputed godfather of premium denim—Adriano Goldschmied. Come into Rodes to try on AG’s latest styles, and we think you’ll agree they feel Absolutely Great.

Fabulous things come in small packages, and that’s why we are happy to introduce you to our petite style maven, Suzi Tipton. She is not only in-the-know about all the latest looks for ladies, she is a master at helping Rodes’ clients incorporate trendy pieces in ways that flatter their shapes and match their personalities. How did you come to work in fashion? I did not always want to go into fashion, but I have always worked in fields similar to this one. I was a stay-at-home mother for a long time, and I worked parttime in retail. Once my kids grew up, I wanted to get a full-time job. This job at Rodes came along, and it felt like a perfect fit. I love it here. What do you think this winter’s hottest trend will be? Animal prints will be everywhere for sure, and I’m so happy about it. Leopard, snake, crocodile, etc. are all going to be really big. Are there any current trends that you’re not fully behind? Personally, I’m not a huge fan of jumpsuits, but I love the way they look on other women. But otherwise, I’m willing to dip my toe into any trend as long as it’s age appropriate. While I won’t be wearing any cute crop tops anytime soon, we did just get in some Golden Goose tennis shoes at Rodes that I can’t wait to try! I’m a firm believer that you can look age appropriate and still have fun with fashion. No “frumpy Muffys” here! Any tips to make business attire more fashionable or exciting? Shoes can make all the difference. Even in a truly traditional, corporate environment, you have an opportunity to express your style with some edgier shoes. What’s your favorite part about your job? The most challenging part? My favorite part is interacting with people all the time. I like to be up and moving around, chatting and helping people find the right outfits. The most challenging part of my job is trying to reach the shoes on the top shelf !

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Herno IS HOT

Mark Your CALENDAR

Named after a small river in Italy, Herno made its mark in the 1940s and ‘50s by manufacturing trench coats suited for the humid and rainy climate around Lake Maggiore. Fast forward 70-plus years and the brand—still renown for its Italian craftsmanship—has become synonymous with contemporary outerwear that includes luxury coats, parkas, puffers, bombers and other jackets. Like its original trench coat, Herno’s modern outerwear is constructed using innovative fabrics, meaning their pieces will protect you splendidly from the elements. The stylish designs and use of the finest materials available have helped the brand soar in popularity in the U.S. Herno president Claudio Marenzi has said, “Fashion for the Italian people is a part of life. It is something that we have in our blood.” We couldn’t agree more. Browse their fall/winter 2019 collection of lightweight, highly-insulating, fashion-forward coats in a variety of hues at Rodes today.

@ RODES FOR HIM

September 11 & 12 MEASURE UP FALL SHIRT SHOW September 12 SAMUELSOHN FALL TRUNK SHOW September 20 & 21 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA FALL SHOW in the Zegna Shop @ Rodes September 28 ISAIA FALL TRUNK SHOW SANTONI FALL SHOE SHOW October 12 GRAVATI CUSTOM SHOE SHOW October 24 - 26 HUDSON DENIM EVENT October 24 - 26 ETON SHIRT WEEKEND SHOW in the Eton Shirt Shop @ Rodes

@ RODES FOR HER

September 26 - 28 ANATOMIE FALL TRUNK SHOW SNIDER FALL TRUNK SHOW AIRFIELD FALL TRUNK SHOW October 3 - 5 LOURDES CHAVEZ FALL TRUNK SHOW October 10 - 12 LA PETITE ROBE BY CHIARA BONI FALL SHOW CLARA WILLIAMS CO. JEWELRY SHOW October 11 & 12 MARION PARKE SHOE SHOW October 24 - 26 NATURA BISSÉ FACIAL CLINICS VINCE FALL “BUY NOW, WEAR NOW” SHOW HUDSON DENIM SHOW October 30 - November 9 LAFAYETTE 148 NY RESORT/ HOLIDAY SHOWING MARGO MORRISON JEWELRY SHOW November 1 & 2 PEDRO GARCIA SHOE SHOW November 7 - 9 ST. JOHN SPRING 2020 TRUNK SHOW November 14 - 16 ALGO SPRING 2020 TRUNK SHOW ORLANDA OLSEN COUTURE JEWELRY SHOW December 6 & 7 DIOMI “BUY NOW, WEAR NOW” FURS

@ RODES FOR HIM & HER

October 24 - 26 HUDSON DENIM EVENT December 7 RODES’ CUSTOMER APPRECIATION DAY

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The A-Z List Rodes is proud to feature more than 100 designers. See if your favorite brands are among them! ABBEY GLASS ACQUA DI PARMA AG JEANS AGL AIRFIELD ALGO ANATOMIE APL AQUATALIA BADGLEY MISCHKA BANARIS BEHNO BELFORD BLACK HALO BLESSINGS IN DISGUISE BOGLIOLI BRACKISH BYRON CAMBIO CANALI CARTISE CHIARA BONI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CHRISTINE A MOORE MILLINERY CINDY BORDERS CINZIA ROCCA CLARA WILLIAMS COMPANY COLLECTION IRIS COMMON PROJECTS DAVID CLINE DEREK ROSE DI BIANCO DIOMI DONALD PLINER EDWARD ARMAH ELLIOTT LAUREN EQUIPMENT ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ERNO LASZLO ESCADA

ETON EYEBOBS EYEWEAR FABIANA FILIPPI FAHERTY BRAND FERRAGAMO FRANCO FERRARI FRYE FURLA FUZZI GERRY WEBER GIANVITO ROSSI GIMO’S GOLDEN GOOSE GOOD MAN BRAND GRAN SASSO GRAVATI GRLFRND HAGEN HARRY’S OF LONDON HERNO HILTL HOOK & ALBERT HUDSON IMPERIAL INIS MEÁIN ISAIA J BRAND JACK MASON J’ENVIE JIMMY CHOO JOE’S JEANS JOIE JUDY P KINROSS KOBI HALPERIN KREWE L’ AGENCE LA PETITE ROBE LAFAYETTE 148 NY LONGCHAMP LOURDES CHAVEZ

LUISA CERANO ST. JOHN MAGNANNI STUART WEITZMAN MARC JACOBS TATEOSSIAN MARCOLIANI TORINO LEATHER MARELLA TORY BURCH MARGO MORRISON TRAFALGAR MARION PARKE TRASK MARISA BARATELLI TROUBLE AT THE MILL MEASURE UP VALENTINO MIGNONNE GAVIGAN VELVET MILLY VINCE MODERN MOGHUL WHIMSY ROSE MOTHER WHITE & WARREN MZ WALLACE WHITING & DAVIS NATURA BISSE’ WIGENS ON CLOUD WOLVERINE ORLANDA OLSEN YUZEFI PAIGE ZANELLA PANTALONI TORINO (PT) PANTHERELLA PASHMA PEDRO GARCIA PERU UNLIMITED COMMON PETER HUBER PROJECTS PETER MILLAR PRADA R. HANAUER RAILS RE/DONE RINO & PELLE ROBERT JENSEN S.M.N. SAINT LAURENT SAMUELSOHN SANTONI SECRID SEE BY CHLOÉ SHOSHANNA SONDRA ROBERTS SOREL ST. CROIX

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Ask JIM

Fall/winter 2019 fashion tips for him

Q

The heat in my office gets unbearable in winter: How do I simultaneously dress for cold weather and overheated offices?

A

It’s called layering, and it’s the smartest way to dress in winter. Rather than a bulky sweater, try one of our fine gauge merino turtlenecks or a cashmere crew, over which you can wear a beautiful unconstructed sportcoat. Or make that second layer a vest: From cable knits to lightweight quilted styles, we offer many fashion-forward options that are both comfortable and on trend. Tip: Wear a top-quality performance tee under your first layer for extra comfort and temperature control; fabric technology has advanced tremendously in recent seasons so that a simple tee can keep you warmer in the cold and cooler in your overheated office.

Q

I’ve been living in sneakers all summer, and I dread the thought of squeezing my feet into rigid dress shoes. Any fall footwear options that are both comfortable and stylish?

Jim Porter, style advisor and men’s buyer, is here to answer your style questions.

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A

Yes! The footwear market feels your pain and is offering many variations of hybrid shoes that combine a beautiful soft leather upper

with a comfort bottom. Soft leather or suede slip-ons and lace-ups are just as comfortable as canvas sneakers…and notably elevate your style. Come in and check out our fabulous assortment of fall footwear.

Q

Why do I need to buy expensive underwear when it doesn’t show?

A

Let us count the ways: 1. A great fit. The right base layer makes everything you wear over it look better. Pant styles these days are slimmer, and your old bulky underwear could ruin your look. 2. For comfort. New luxury performance fabrics feel incredibly soft and breathable. 3. To save the planet. Many tech fabrics are sustainably sourced. 4. For easy care. Tech fabrics come out of the washer and dryer looking like new. 5. For their many amazing properties. The wicking, anti-microbial, quick-dry, odor-control and temperaturecontrol of these undies make them worth it. 6. When was the last time you replaced the underwear in your drawer? If your boxers and briefs are old, frayed, stretched out or embarrassingly gray, it’s time! Finally, 7. Wearing the good stuff will make you look and feel younger and sexier. Need we say more?

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must-haves

pattern

PLAY

Show your style this season with checks, florals and paisleys.

Shirts, ties and pocket squares by Eton.

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footwear

get the

BOOT

Leather and suede. Chestnut and chocolate. Chelsea and chukka. We get such a kick out of these boots, you’ll want to take them all.

Clockwise from top: Chelsea boot and leather wingtip boot by Trask, work boot by Alden, black dress chukka boot by Gravati, suede lace-up boot (center) by Trask and desert boot by Alden.

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fall

FEVER You know the symptoms: You ache to put away the polos and put on the hottest cold-weather styles. Photography by Dan Springston

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Opposite page: dress by Black Halo, earrings by Mignonne Gavigan. This page, on him: sportcoat, sweater and pants by Ermenegildo Zegna. On her: dress by St. John.

FA LL/WIN TER 2019 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E

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This page: jacket, top and pants by Fabiana Filippi, sunglasses by Krewe, jewelry by Simon Sebbag. Opposite page, on him: vest, sweater, shirt, pants and belt by Peter Millar and watch by Jack Mason. On her: sweater, pants and belt by Peter Millar.

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TAY L O R R I C H A R D S & C O N G E R

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FA LL/WIN TER 2019 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E

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This page, on him: coat by Herno, jeans by Hudson. On her: coat by Herno, jeans by Mother. Opposite page, on her: sweater, blouse and pants by Vince, earrings by Jenny Bird, sunglasses by Krewe, sneakers by Golden Goose. On him: jacket, sweater and pants by Vince.

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This page, on her: sweater, shirt and pants by Lafayette 148, earrings by Mignonne Gavigan, bag by Marc Jacobs, boots by Valentino. On him: jacket by Gimo’s and shirt and pants by Vince. Opposite page: blazer by Escada, sunglasses by Krewe, leather jeans by Hudson.

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This page, on her: dress by Vince, shoes by Stuart Weitzman and earrings by Mignonne Gavigan. On him: suit, shirt, tie and shoes by Ermenegildo Zegna. Opposite: jacket and jeans by Isaia and pocket square by Eton.

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This page: suit, tie and pocket square by Canali and shirt by Isaia. Opposite: jacket by Peter Millar and turtleneck by Ermenegildo Zegna.

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This page: suit and turtleneck by Ermenegildo Zegna. Opposite: floral shirt by Vince.

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Hooded jacket, knit sweater and pants by Vince.

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the art of organization closetfactory.com

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awash in

DENIM

Low-slung or high-waisted? Raw hem or embellished? Black or bleached? With so many options, you are bound to find more than one perfect pair.

Why choose just one pair when there are so many great styles from Re/Done, L’Agence, Hudson, Paige, Mother and GRLFRND. Sweater by Vince and boots by Valentino.

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Beef up your wardrobe with a rainbow of denim by premier brands including Hudson, AG, S.M.N, Citizens of Humanity, Joe’s Jeans and J Brand. Shirt by Vince and jeans by Hudson.

FA LL/WIN TER 2019 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E

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COLD FRONT The season’s outerwear forecast calls for a mix of textures and weights. Prepare to keep warm, dry and looking fly, no matter what Mother Nature has planned. Photography by Dan Springston

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OVER THE TOP Topcoat and trousers by Corneliani.

FA LL/WIN TER 2019 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E

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WALK IN THE PARKA Parka by Corneliani, CPO shirt by Faherty Brand.

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SAILOR’S DELIGHT Peacoat by Samuelsohn, quarter-zip sweater by Peter Millar and tie and shirt by Eton.

FA LL/WIN TER 2019 THE SU B STA N CE OF ST Y L E

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PUFF’D UP Orange puffer by Herno, hooded sweater by Faherty Brand and jeans by AG.

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RAMBLIN’ MAN Navy travel coat by Corneliani and shirt by Peter Millar.

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Ask SUSAN

Fall/winter 2019 fashion tips for her

Q

I want to invest in a new coat or jacket, but I want to find a piece that I can wear anywhere. What is the most versatile outerwear this season? And how can I dress it up or down with hats, gloves and scarves?

A

Puffer coats are always a no-fail choice for outerwear, but I’ll be honest—they tend to skew a bit more casual. If you want a jacket that has more versatility, opt for a belted trench coat like the ones from Fabiana Filippi or L’Agence. They’re longer, easily layerable, more structured and exude a sense of elegance, plus they don’t look like an afterthought if worn atop a dressy outfit. Cinched-in waists are a major look this season, but I love that many trench coats come with removable belts, should you prefer a less defined silhouette. As for accessorizing? On-trend bucket hats or fedoras are chic ways to jazz up outerwear, while a slouchy, knitted beret is a fantastic, less dressy alternative. To keep the look 2019, try a fedora in the same color family as your trench that is slightly oversized—I adore the new collection of fedoras from Saint Laurent. And believe it or not, opera gloves—long gloves that reach the elbow—are back in style and are an easy way to stay warm and look sharp.

Susan Vogt, co-owner, is Rodes’ womenswear maven.

Q

Holiday party season is coming, and I struggle to put together looks that are elegant and a little sexy but also keep me warm. What pieces will ensure I attend all the festivities feeling chic, not chilly?

A

Perhaps unsurprisingly, sparkle is a major trend for holiday attire, but this year with more unique uses of metallic gold and silver (think fringe and draping). Try a sparkly wrap dress or long-

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sleeved mock neck midi dress from Badgley Mischka that’s sexy but more covered than, say, a spaghetti strap or strapless ensemble. Suits with masculine tailoring are also back, so if you want to set yourself apart from all the other women wearing LBDs to the Christmas party (and want to be warmer than they are), try a sleek black-on-black suit from Lafayette 148, paired with a simple silk or lace camisole underneath that shows just a touch of décolletage.

Q

I have always lived by the adage that if you wore a style when it was first popular, you can’t wear it when it comes back. For example I wore light wash jeans in the ’90s and they are popular again. How should I shop for retro denim trends so I look current, and not like I am still wearing my high school jeans?

A

The first stop you should make when you’re on the hunt for new jeans is Rodes’ denim bar—we have a full menu, if you will, of dozens of denim styles and brands, including J Brand, Mother, Paige and Hudson. Our in-store style experts can help you choose which “retro” denim trends suit you best and what to wear with them. Your next step is to throw that adage out the window, because even though boot-cut, high-waisted, button-fly and light-wash jeans are having a resurgence, the new iterations of these styles have more modern twists. For instance, the so-called “mom jeans” of yesteryear are now still baggy throughout the leg but more tapered in the rear and thigh. The key to wearing these denim trends is to pair them with classic, basic pieces (like a striped button-up shirt) rather than other vintage finds. But I urge you not to shy away from these old-school denim styles—we’ll help you embrace them!

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must-haves

3 hot

trends Wearing any one— or all three—of the newest styles will have you looking au courant.

JEWEL TONES Scarves, jacket and sweater by Kinross Cashmere.

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SPECIAL PROMOTION

Sartorial FALL GIMO’S ITALIANA S.P.A. Italian-based company and family-owned. Our products prove to be timeless in design and quality rendering them a wonderful addition to any wardrobe.

CHIARA BONI Chiara Boni La Petite Robe updates their signature stretch jersey fabric with new novelty textiles. 100% made in Italy, the quality is unmistakable!

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MAGNANNI An update to the original Magnanni trainer, the Nico Cuero is an athletic version of the perfect dress sneaker.

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must-haves PLAID Sunglasses by Krewe, sweater by Vince, blouse by Rails and scarf by Banaris.

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2020 RANGE ROVER

ATTRACTION IS ONLY NATURAL

MSRP FROM $94,350 * The 2020 Range Rover delivers unprecedented levels of comfort, entertainment and connectivity. With new Land Rover Touch Pro Duo™ dual touchscreens, being in command has never been so easy.† For passengers, every journey offers an opportunity to take in the scenery through the optional panoramic roof and gesturecontrolled sunblind, catch up on work or entertainment, or rest and relax in one of the reclining seats. See the 2020 Range Rover at Land Rover Louisville today.

Land Rover Louisville 4700 Bowling Boulevard 502.895.2451 landroverlouisville.com

Vehicle Shown: 2020 Range Rover Autobiography. European license plate shown. †Do not use Land Rover InControl® features under conditions that will affect your safety or the safety of others. Driving while distracted can result in loss of vehicle control. Do not operate, adjust or view the navigation or multimedia systems under conditions that will affect your safety or the safety of others. Only use mobile phones and other devices, even with voice commands, when it is safe to do so. *Price shown is Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price for the 2020 Range Rover Autobiography. Supplies are limited. Excludes $1295 destination/handling charge, tax, title, license, and retailer fees, all due at signing, and optional equipment. Retailer price, terms and vehicle availability may vary. See Land Rover Louisville or call 502.895.2451 for qualifications and complete details. © 2019 Jaguar Land Rover North America, LLC

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LEOPARD PRINT Sunglasses by Krewe, scarf by Franco Ferrari, denim by GRLFRND, flat by AGL, heel by Stuart Weitzman, purse by Christian Louboutin.

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must-haves

all in the

DETAILS These accessories are the perfect finishing touches for a chic casual look.

Clockwise from top right: bootie by Prada, purse and bootie by Valentino, flat by AGL, sneaker by Golden Goose.

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SHIRT COLLAR

The wing—a stand-up collar with downward points—is the most formal style, while the mandarin or band collar offers a more contemporary look. Prefer to wear a necktie instead of a bow tie? The wide spread collar is a great option.

tux

TIPS

SHIRT FRONT

Every man can look incredible in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one. By Darius Amos Most of us aren’t walking the red carpet or accepting an Academy Award. But dressing to the nines for a wedding or gala is something we’ve all done—and it’s likely you’ll attend another formal event where looking sharp is part of the agenda. Of course, you don’t get to wear a tuxedo every day (not even George Clooney does that), so when you invest in the ultimate piece of formal wear, its style and fit should be nothing shy of impeccable. Consider these things before you suit up for something special:

A shirt front with no placket and concealed buttons is clean and contemporary, while a pleated front worn with studs adds textural interest. For a classic, elegant look, try a smooth bib-front shirt, perhaps in a piqué fabric, with room for studs.

JACKET LAPEL

You know the choices: peak, shawl and notch. Wear a silk-faced peak lapel for highly formal occasions and a rounded shawl style when you want to soften your look. While versatile, a notch lapel is the least formal for a tuxedo.

JACKET SHOULDER

Don’t overlook this detail. The padding of your tux jacket should not extend beyond the tip of your shoulders (no shoulder divot). If it does, your jacket is too big.

JACKET CUT

While you can’t go wrong with a traditional-cut jacket, a modern fit, which is trimmer through the chest and shoulder, offers fashion-forward styling and a flattering silhouette—and it’s still appropriate for any black-tie event.

SLEEVE LENGTH

When paired with a properly fitted shirt, the jacket sleeve should show a half-inch of the shirt cuff—just enough for others to see your cuff links.

JACKET LENGTH

We’ll work with you if you’re an NBA center, but for the regular guy, the piece should cover your backside. Another guide: With your arms at your side, the jacket should end between your thumb’s knuckle and base.

PANT LEG WIDTH

Find a cut that flatters your waist, thighs and calves. Pay attention to how the fabric drapes—anything too tight will create wrinkles, while too much material will be baggy.

PANT LEG LENGTH

Pants should have half or no break. See your tailor immediately if they are bunching at your ankles (or if your ankles are showing). The half break is the standard, showing a slight dent where the hem rests on the top of the shoe.

SHOES

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Patent loafers and oxfords, traditionally worn with a tux, are best suited for the most formal events. Both styles in suede or polished leather will give you a lowkey look.

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