FORUM/The Substance of Style/SS 2018
A SEASON OF STYLE OUR EDITED
SELECTION FROM THE WORLDâ€™S BEST DESIGNERS
PERFORMANCE PLUS FABRICS THAT MAKE THE RIGHT MOVES
CELEBRATING THE EVERYDAY
T H E S H I R T M A K E R S I N C E 19 2 8
Rodes 502-753-RODES (7633) rodes.com 4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222
Stuart Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Menghi ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
Michelle Brown CONCEPT DIRECTOR
Andrew Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN
FEATURES 10 Survey: What Women Want 12 First Person: Real Stores Rule 40 Destinations: Cruising the Highway South 42 Photography: A Rock Star’s View
Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM. ©2018 FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE, A UBM® PUBLICATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. UBM AMERICAS,
2 PENN PLAZA, FLOOR 15, NEW YORK, NY 10121. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ADVERTISERS’ CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 21, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
FASHION 13 14 16 18 24 30
Designers: Peter Millar Designers: Michael Bastian Designers: Maurizio Baldassari Light / Space Intersecting Spring For It! Make All the Right Moves
DEPARTMENTS 2 4 8 23 29 36 38 44 46 48
Welcome Letter R World Events The Fashion Forum Ask Jim Ask Susan Wheels: Gentlemen Bikers Travel: Open for Bliss-ness Wine: Feeling Bubbly At Your Service End Page: Fashion Shrink
RODES FOR HIM | FOR HER
t Rodes, our goal is to make you look and feel amazing! To that end, we do everything we can to make your life more convenient. Extras like home visits, free alterations, guidance from trusted Personal Stylists and in-store ‘Happenings’ are our specialty. For spring and Derby, we have exciting new
designers and stunning creations everywhere you look! We have also scheduled more events and trunk shows to make your experience fun and convenient. Be sure to add the exciting events listed below to your calendar. See you in-store and around town, S U S A N A N D H O WA R D VO G T
events M A R C H 1 ST
M A R C H 1 6 TH & 1 7 TH
A P R I L 1 9 TH— 2 1 ST
Samuelsohn Spring Trunk Show
Tom Ford Eyewear Event
M A R C H 1 ST & 2 ND
M A R C H 1 7 TH
Measure Up Custom Shirt Show
Rodes’ 104th Anniversary
Shoshanna Spring Buy Now, Wear Now Event Christine Moore Hat Clinic
Spring Luncheon & Style Show benefiting the Kilgore Samaritan Counseling Center
38th Rodes City Run 10K benefiting the WHAS Crusade for Children
M A R C H 8 TH— 1 0 TH
A P R I L 1 2 TH— 1 4 TH
Lourdes Chavez Spring Trunk Show M A R C H 9 TH & 1 0 TH
Ermenegildo Zegna Weekend Showing in the Zegna Shop @ Rodes M A R C H 1 0 TH
Crescala Fashion Development (CFD) Young Designer Showcase A P R I L 1 3 TH & 1 4 TH
Eton Shirt Weekend Show in the Eton Shirt Shop @ Rodes A P R I L 1 4 TH
Isaia Made-To-Measure Derby Event
Pantaloni Torino (PT) Trousers Special Order Show
M A R C H 1 5 TH— 1 7 TH
A P R I L 1 9 TH
Cartise Spring Showing WGACA Vintage Handbag Trunk Show
Derby Divas benefiting the Norton Cancer Institute Breast Health Program
A P R I L 2 0 TH & 2 1 ST
Clara Williams Jewelry Show A P R I L 2 6 TH— 2 8 ST
Orlanda Olsen Jewelry Show A P R I L 3 0 T H — M AY 3 R D
Christine Moore Hat Show Returns M AY 2 3 R D & 2 4 T H
Donna Degnan Trunk Show Natura Bissé Facial Clinic J U N E 8 TH & 9 TH
St. John Fall 2018 Showing J U N E 1 4 TH— 1 6 TH
Algo of Switzerland Fall Showing J U N E 2 0 TH— 3 0 TH
Lafayette 148 NY Fall Showing
See our updated events listing at rodes.com. Also, sign up for our emails, like us on Facebook and follow us on Instagram to be the first to know about exclusive events, special offers and contests.
Passion + Performance
With Victory Comes Preparedness
HOLIDAY CHEER Santa came to town in December during Rodesâ€™ annual Customer Appreciation Day. Old friends and good neighbors stopped by to enjoy the festivities and visit with St. Nick! Go to rodes.com/happenings to see more photos from this annual event.
GILDA’S NIGHT Rodes hosted Gilda’s Night, a benefit for Gilda’s Club Louisville, whose goal is to ensure that no one ever walks a cancer journey alone. Thank you to each person and organization that made this fundraiser possible!
SAVE THE DATE! GILDA’S NIGHT @ Bittner’s November 9th
OAKS & DERBY Rodes, our vendors and our customers become the center of attention each year during Derby Fever! Here are just a few of the highlights. Go to rodes.com/happenings to see our exciting photo albums.
From hoops to sheaths, corsets to cut-outs, The Body: Fashion and Physique, on view at New York City’s Museum at FIT through May 5th, examines the complex history of the “ideal” body in fashion and considers the relationship between the fashion industry and body politics from the 18th century to the present. It features more than 50 objects from the museum’s permanent collection, including dresses by Martin Margiela, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Siriano, many of which have never been on view. Within the exhibition, garments are supplemented with images from the popular press, fashion media, film and other sources to highlight how the fashion industry has contributed to the marginalization of certain body types within our culture. —BSL
For a fashionable read, few names in the ballet world inspire such admiration and awe as David Hallberg, who has chronicled his life in A Body of Work: Dancing to the Edge and Back (Touchstone). A principal guest artist at American Ballet Theatre, Hallberg reflects on themes like inspiration, selfdoubt and perfectionism as he takes readers into rigorous rehearsals and triumphant performances of ballet’s greatest roles. He also reveals the loneliness he felt as a teenager leaving America to join the Paris Opera Ballet, the ambition he had to tame as a new member of American Ballet Theatre, and the reasons behind his headline-grabbing decision to be the first American to join the top rank of the Bolshoi Ballet. Most inspiringly, Hallberg details his comeback from a crippling ankle injury and unsuccessful surgery that threatened his career. —BSL
PLEASED AS PUNCH
Even if you can’t fight like Rocky Marciano, Rocky Balboa—or even Rocky, the Flying Squirrel—you’ll feel like a world champion putting up your dukes in Williamson Sporting Goods’ custom-made Stansfield Boxing Set. Available in black or blue, each set (which will set you back a mere $195,000) features a crocodile heavy bag with ostrich overlay panels and gold chains, a speed bag with alternating crocodile and ostrich leather panels, and crocodile boxing gloves with ostrich leather wraps and metallic gold leather lining on each glove. Talk about a knockout! —BSL
ROLL OUT THE BARREL The next time someone tells you they have a great bottle of wine at home, you can tell them you have something even better! For the first time, Bodega Numanthia and Loewe, two luxury houses rooted in Spanish history, have combined their expertise to create unique barrels of Numanthia’s iconic wine, Termanthia. What makes them so special is that they will be crafted from French oak wood and covered in Loewe leather. Buyers can personalize which calf leather tint they want (tan, black, oxblood, navy and red are the options) as well as choose from one of seven additional leather tints for his or her own initials to be appended on the barrel. Each order is custom-made and custompriced (via email@example.com) and will take about six months for delivery. —BSL
THE ART (AND SCIENCE) OF THE SALE Few execs in any industry
person for life,” guaranteed to
sales and profits.” (Mitchell
have mastered the art of sales-
inspire employees and grow
cites a recent study of con-
manship like our colleague
sumers in 27 countries and 20
Jack Mitchell of the Mitchell
Mitchell believes that every-
industries: nearly 70 percent of
Family of Stores. His first two
one is a seller, or needs to be.
them were unhappy with how
books—Hug Your Customers
Yet despite a vast sales advice
they’ve been treated!)
and Hug Your People—were
industry, most firms have a dis-
widely acclaimed bestsellers,
proportionate number of lack-
tional and practical aspects of
bringing Mitchell accolades,
luster sellers, causing business-
selling, the book also discusses
speaking engagements and
es to stall. “If companies would
the power of humor and touch,
requests for more. His new
only create an environment to
valuable components of making
book, Selling The Hug Your
motivate their sales force, then
a human connection with your
Customers Way, is a “proven
salesmen would sell more prod-
customers. This one’s a must
process for becoming a pas-
uct and develop more loyal cus-
read—and will be hot off the
sionate and successful sales-
tomers, resulting in greater
presses by early June! —KAG
Focusing on both the emo-
WHAT WOMEN WANT Just for fun, we conducted an online survey (friends and friends of friends) to find out how women like guys to dress. The questions were open-ended so all responses were unaided. The sample was national, mostly professional women (lawyers, writers, marketing execs, event planners, teachers, health care workers) between 25 and 50 who were surprisingly opinionated about what their men should wear. Here, a few interesting findings: • On a scale of 1 to 10, the average ranking for the importance of a guy’s appearance was a 7 (2 to 10 range). One respondent noted that “for work colleagues, appearance is a 10 because it reflects our brand.” Another ranked it 10 for boyfriends and/or partners “because we reflect each other.” • Asked what they notice first about how a guy is dressed, 60 percent notice his overall style (neat or sloppy, casual or buttoned up) vs. a particular
apparel item. 30 percent say they look first at the shirt (pattern, color, fit), 30 percent at the shoes (“shoes reflect his overall style and the care he puts into his things”), and 20 percent at how well the clothes fit. • Asked what specifically would attract them to a guy, the majority once again cited an overall look (comfort, confidence and fit were noted most often), rather than a specific item. “I’m attracted if the guy looks like he’s given it some thought,” writes Natalie, a personal shopper. “I often tell my 35-year-old boyfriend that he dresses like an 8th grader!” admits another respondent. “I go for well-groomed and confident,” writes Samantha, a marketing exec. “And a nice fitted suit never hurts!” Casey looks for quality casual clothes that fit. “And to me, rolled-up shirt sleeves revealing tattoos is very sexy.” • Fashion turn-offs included flashy logos, clothes that are unclean, wrinkled, too baggy or too tight, man buns, graphic tees, short shorts, stains, cheap fabrics, pleats, clothes that are “too beige,” underwear showing, and “anything that looks more feminine than what I’m wearing…” The most common criticism was “sloppy,” a turn-off cited by 40 percent of respondents. • Asked to describe a perfect outfit, respondents divided their preferences into work, weekend and date night categories. For work and dinner out, items most often mentioned were button-down shirt (“tucked in”), fitted pants, tailored suit (“pocket square and tie bar are nice touches”), blazer, nice loafers (“not tassel shoes like my 75-year-old 6th grade teacher wore”), dress pants, nice jeans. For weekends, popular responses included plain T-shirt, cool sneakers, jeans—fitted and dark. Less frequent but interesting responses: “maybe a hat,” “vintage T-shirt,” “some facial hair.” Or as one respondent noted, “There is no perfect outfit. Guys should experiment to find a look that reflects their personality.” • Other meaningful comments: “Clothes are important,” says Michelle (who described herself as a domestic goddess). “You’re telling the world how you’d like to be treated.” “The nicer someone is, the more I like how he dresses,” notes Kim. And from Emma (a lawyer), “Guys should not wear black socks and sandals with Michigan basketball shorts. But since my husband does, I probably shouldn’t be taking this survey…” BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
IMAGE COURTESY OF ELEVENTY
If you think women don’t care what their men wear, think again!
Beautifully crafted jewelr y with a fine disposition and a magnetic personality. LIMIT LESS POSS IBILIT IES
REAL STORES RULE
Why I don’t buy clothing online.
I’ve never been one to favor online shopping. For all its so-called convenience, I much prefer the experience of going into a brick-and-mortar store where I can see and feel (and in the case of clothing, try on) the merchandise. I always appreciate the helpful advice I’m given by the highly trained associates in my favorite family-owned specialty store. Not only are these talented experts well versed in the quality, care and cut of specific product, but they understand my taste, my body type and my closet so that I’m less likely to make expensive shopping mistakes. Recently, I made an exception to my “only in store” inclination—and it did nothing to change my mind. My husband wanted something very specific for his birthday, which I was able to find easily from a major e-tailer. On my computer screen, it looked like a beautiful and beautifully crafted item, almost worth what I thought was an exceptionally hefty price tag. It arrived not just on time, but early; my impatient husband insisted on opening it a few days before the big occasion. As it turned out, that was a good thing. The item in question was not only damaged, but even had it arrived in perfect condition (or had we been able to overlook the imperfection), it was far shoddier than we’d imagined, leaving me feeling ripped off. Worse yet, the so-called easy return wasn’t all that easy. A return label had to be printed out based on some document the company allegedly included in the package. Since we never received the document, we had to waste tons of time trying to obtain the required information, after which the rather heavy box had to be walked over to the local post office to be weighed and mailed. (Don’t even ask about the pre-Christmas post office lines…) Of course, buying online from the website of my favorite specialty store works out fine for several reasons: I know the actual caring people who stand behind their product; I can reserve online and pick up in store; if I opt to have the purchase shipped to my home, I can return it to the store; if there’s any problem whatsoever, I can stop in and discuss it with real people, rather than wade through an endless maze of computerized voices telling me how much they appreciate my call while never actually connecting me to a human being. Of all the advantages of local specialty store shopping—the at-home closet makeovers, the in-store events and trunk shows, the coffee and/or cocktails, the camaraderie and the caring—none matter to me as much as the expert advice I continue to receive from my favorite sales associate, who’s never let me buy anything that’s not quite right for me. In the theater of life, looking good is half the battle. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
SYDA PRODUCTIONS/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM
THE MAGIC OF MILLAR
When price, product and promotion combine to perfection. It all began in 2001 with one cashmere sweater. Since then, the Peter Millar collection, the epitome of timeless style, has grown into a full lifestyle brand with multiple product lines and a huge golf following. (Brand ambassadors include eight-time PGA Tour winner Brandt Snedeker and six-time PGA Tour winner Bill Haas.) Sweaters, woven and knit shirts, outerwear, tailored clothing, dress furnishings, footwear and accessories are presented in seasonal collections where innovation is the norm. Bright colors, bold patterns and luxury performance fabrics from some of the world’s finest mills all play central roles. “We’re always upgrading,” asserts Peter Millar president Scott Ruerup. “It’s not just about changing colors, but also about updating yarns and fabrics.” The spring ’18 collection showcases these efforts. Distinctive stone and enzyme fabric washes and specialty garment dyes provide a unique depth of color and an exceptionally soft hand. Exclusive prints brighten swim trunks. A new plaited cashmere made from the finest worsted-finish Italian yarns offers a soft interior and enhanced shape retention as well as a lighter weight: an ongoing goal across product categories also epitomized in the new Desert Moto jacket. Poly-plaiting, stretch, easy-care finishes and moisture management—all proprietary innovations that differentiate the brand and highlight its versatility—demonstrate Peter Millar’s focus on performance and fit. The success of soft sport coats has inspired a capsule collection (aptly named Collection) of lightweight worsted-wool suitings developed in Europe with fine detailing such as hand-sewn buttonholes. Performance, innovation, casual style and luxury feel: these are the qualities Peter Millar aficionados have come to expect and the reasons they keep coming back. BY LAURIE SCHECHTER
DESIGNERS Michael Bastian is a classic American designer who understands clothes and the men who buy them. “I’ve always looked to design the stuff I’m dying to wear but can’t find,” he confides. “What are the perfect basics? Where can I find a good cashmere crewneck that fits just right? That became a founding principle when I first launched my collection, and I still design things that I’m personally looking for each season.” Bastian started his career as a department store men’s apparel buyer, working his way up to fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman before launching his own collection in 2006. He won the Council of Fashion Designers of America Menswear Designer of the Year award in 2011, and is the darling of fashion editors and bloggers. “American designers are
“Things feel more designer-y, more branded. But I sense the pendulum is swinging back to an environment that appreciates heritage. Michael Bastian Gray Label is definitely an American brand. I’ve spent lots of time in Italy, where luxury brands are too perfect, almost untouchable. Ours is about being a little rumpled, and very approachable.” The collection builds from a foundation of basics—a great pocket T-shirt, a slim cargo pant—layering on effortless fashion pieces like a tropical leaf-printed short, a washed linen shirt, and a garment-dyed sweater that embodies “James Dean cool.” A deconstructed blazer in a shirting fabric is perfect for a casual dinner at an outdoor café, while a plaid cotton/linen bomber jacket is sure to be your go-to spring jacket for seasons to come.
Michael Bastian presents a cool casual luxury collection for spring ’18. BY JOHN RUSSEL JONES
hailed as either modern—Calvin Klein—or preppy—Ralph Lauren,” says Bastian. “I like to take the best of both worlds and land right in the middle. I’ve always admired the work of Perry Ellis in the 1970s and ’80s. I don’t think people remember what that brand was like when he was designing it.” Bastian applies a sense of luxury to his designs: besides his stint at Bergdorf’s, he’s also partnered with luxury brand Brunello Cucinelli. “We launched in that ‘#menswear’ moment, just as bloggers became influential. We’re now in a label moment,” he explains.
Rounding out the collection: great swim shorts in a perfect length, with a side pocket and secure back zipper pocket. Spring’s easy, washed-down palette ranges from indigo and olive to gray, white and ivory. As for Bastian personally, he’s in a domestic state of mind. “My life has changed a lot recently. I got married last June and often work from home. I’m more house-focused these days, so it’s been a weird year. For Christmas, it was all about whether or not I wanted a Magic Pot,” he jokes. Wherever his mind is, it seems to be working.
MAURIZIO BALDASSARI Mastering the art of unpretentious style.
a family business is its flexibility.” Although Baldassari is most famous for its ultra-soft sweater knit jackets, beautiful spring options abound, from linen-blend and cotton crepe sport coats to light merino jersey knits. Spring ’18 favorites include an extra-fine merino knit cardigan (laser cut and fully fashioned) available in many colors, a linen-blend zip-front jacket, an all-season reversible leather jacket in the softest napa, and a softly constructed unlined sport coat that’s cashmere outside, cotton inside. The collection is crafted totally in Italy; the company employs 10 people in Milan and 10 artisan partners in various nearby districts. Asked to define “style,” Renato suggests it’s better left undefined. “Style is not the same for everyone. It’s an attitude, it’s being confident and comfortable in what you wear. It’s less about the way you look and more about how you feel. If you’re comfortable and relaxed, you’re stylish. Of course, Italian style is a little more ‘proper’ than American style: growing up in the showroom with my dad, it came naturally to me. I would never dress for work like I’m going to the gym.” What tips would he give to American men who want to elevate their style? “Few American men take the time to explore fashion; they wear what they’ve always worn. I suggest they take a risk now and then; try something new! Who knows: it might pay off in wonderful ways…” BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
While numerous Italian clothing collections feature modern designs crafted in luxury fabrics from the world’s top mills, few offer the panache, the elegance and the intrinsic value of Maurizio Baldassari. A family business based in the Brera district of Milan (home to creative types from artists to architects to entrepreneurs), this luxury menswear company was founded in 1982 by Maurizio Baldassari, a designer who started his career sharing an office with Giorgio Armani at La Rinascente department stores, Italy’s most famous retailer. When Maurizio left to establish his own collection, his exceptional aesthetic sensibility attracted the attention of Takashimaya Japan, his first client. Since then, he’s built a successful luxury menswear business throughout Europe and Asia, and with select stores in the US. The hallmarks of the collection are its easy modern designs, luxurious fabrics and fatto bene craftsmanship. As Renato Baldassari (who with his brother Roberto runs the business; Maurizio is still active and, with his wife Grazia, remains the heart and soul of the company), explains it, “Because we’re a family business, we put much passion into our products. Many family businesses in Italy are now owned by big corporations, so they’re driven by the numbers. We’re not so much thinking about profit but rather about people and positioning: how will it look on the selling floor, on specific customers? If we love a fabric, we will price the item to sell rather than figure out how many meters at what price per meter… The beauty of
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Light Space INTER SECTING
P H OTO G R A P H Y : S E R G I O K U R H A J E c S T I L L - L I F E P H OTO G R A P H Y : B R I A N K L U TC H HAIR|MAKEUP: LIAM DUNNE WA R D R O B E : W E N DY M C N E T T
Spring 2018 fashion tips for him What does one wear to a spring/summer wedding? I received an invitation that reads “festive attire”—what does that mean? If the invitation says “black tie,” you’re best off in a tux (black or navy are safe bets). If the one in your closet is more than three years old, you’re probably ready for an update, as current styles are trimmer, and lighter weight to move with you. “Festive” denotes cheerful/joyful/celebratory, so no need to go black tie for this kind of event. For men, festive attire can mean a jazzy patterned sport coat (with dark jeans and cool sneakers) or perhaps linen pants with a vest. A suit is always appropriate, but feel free to add levity with a fun printed shirt, a fabulous tie or pocket square, cuff links, lapel pin or novelty socks. Eschew the pineapple/palmtree printed shirt (unless it’s a beach wedding) but don’t be afraid of color. Get creative and express yourself in clothing that makes you feel happy! (For what’s happier than a wedding?)
Can I wear shorts to the office? Unless your boss wears shorts to the office, we advise against it. But worry not: there are many lightweight pant options for spring 2018 that are just as cool as shorts but far more professional and stylish. Check out our extensive offerings in casualbut-polished pants—fivepocket models, drawstring styles, even jogger-type bottoms in soft luxury fabrics, many with a touch of stretch for a perfect mix of comfort and cool.
Is there such a thing as a summer belt? My heavy black and brown leather belts look all wrong with linen pants and khakis. Why not try a braided fabric belt with leather or suede trim? Or else a leather belt in a lighter shade of tan, taupe or olive? We agree that a dark horizontal line across a notso-toned torso is not always a great look, especially on large-size guys. Let us show you some great summer belts that flatter.
Spring for it! THE MOST STYLISH LOOKS OF THE S E A S O N A R E I N B L O O M AT R O D E S . P H OTO G R A P H Y : B R I A N K L U TC H
CHELSEA AND WALKER
Spring 2018 fashion tips for her
SOMETHING I DON’T HAVE IN MY Q: WHAT’S CLOSET, BUT SHOULD?
An updated topper, like a trench or anorak, will elevate everything you wear under it. The best new outerwear pieces offer strength and versatility,
THE WARMER MONTHS ARE ALWAYS A GOOD Q: TIME TO PLAY WITH PRINTS AND COLORS. WHICH ONES ARE ON TREND THIS YEAR? Many of our designers offered up their own spin on
fighting water and wrinkles as they move seamlessly from street to office. Wear over a chunky knit and jeans with loafers, or structured trousers with heels. Head into the store to find all of our lightweight
cool, non-girly florals for spring/summer 2018.
outerwear options—and anything else your
Safari-inspired prints in muted neutrals definitely
wardrobe might be missing!
caught our attention, as did large-scale blooms in
fresh color combos. Even denim makers are getting in on the flower game, with colorful embroidery from hip to heel. Gingham, especially in black and white, showed
I’VE CARRIED MY TRUSTY BLACK TOTE ALL WINTER LONG, BUT NOW I’M READY TO LIGHTEN UP! WHAT ARE SOME OPTIONS FOR A NEW SPRING BAG?
up on everything from accessories to coats to
There is so much fun happening in handbag design
dresses. The traditional menswear print used on
right now. The overarching theme is texture, so
decidedly feminine silhouettes feels so fresh—just
we’ve got laser-cuts, embroidery, top-stitching—
right for spring.
you name it. A few of our favorites include satchels with gorgeous pebble texture, and adorable mini
When it comes to color, we’re loving bright orange, dreamy lilac and a whole host of pinks.
purses with floral appliques, perfect for an evening
Timeless neutrals like white and olive green always
out or a special daytime event like Derby! Colors run the gamut too, so why not try a fresh
work for summer, especially in luxe fabrics like intricate lace and drapey silk. They’re great on
combo like taupe and navy or white and orange?
their own or when used to help ground the many
Either one will be a much-needed departure from
patterns of the season.
your basic black.
EXCEPTIONAL PERFORMANCE FABRICS MAKE ALL THE RIGHT MOVES AND GO BEYOND ATHLETICS. NEW TECHNOLOGIES OFFER MOVEABILITY & COMFORT IN CLOTHING FROM FORMAL WEAR TO WEEKEND WEAR. PHOTOGRAPHER SHANE LAVANCHER FASHION STYLIST LEAH SNOW PRODUCER JILLIAN LAROCHELLE GROOMER VIVI LAPIDUS MODEL JARED K FOR FORD
ISAIA TUXEDO, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SHIRT & TIE
Highly engineered tuxedo fabric is performance technology at its best, looking sharp as it resists stains and wrinkles and adapts to your every move.
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SPORT COAT & BAG, RAFFI POLO, INCOTEX PANT, MAGNANNI SNEAKER, KENTON MICHAEL BRACELETS
Z ZEGNA SUIT, ETON SHIRT, TIE & POCKET SQUARE
Extremely soft and lowmaintenance, Z Zegnaâ€™s Techmerino Wash & Go suiting provides perfect thermoregulation and elasticity. Eton shirting is made from 100% extra long staple cotton and woven with signature crease-resistant technology.
The perfect travel blazer is unlined, lightweight and wrinkle-resistantâ€”ideal for layering to take you between climates or seasons. Nearly every pant we offer, from denim to dress, now contains stretch for maximum movement and all-day comfort.
PETER MILLAR GOLF SHIRT, SHORTS & SHOES
Performance polo is quick-drying with four-way stretch for maximum comfort. An exceptional gram weight prevents torque during activity. Shorts contain two-way mechanical stretch for moisturewicking and easy-care, expertly designed for the course while still offering a rich appearance for wearing around town.
RHONE TEE & SHORTS, COMMON PROJECTS SNEAKER
Tee features an evaporative Polartec fabric that dissipates sweat to cool you down without weighing you down. Abrasionresistant shorts are made with a soft, contrast waistband and a durable ripstop fabric that dries in a snap.
Our motorsports writer tries riding in a Brioni suit.
GENTLEMEN BIKERS The term “dapper” is not widely used these days, but when a guy dresses up and makes the effort to stand out in a crowd, it is generally appreciated nonetheless. This past year, 94,962 men rode through 600 cities in 95 countries sporting their most dapper attire. With trimmed beards they mounted their classic or vintage-style motorcycles and rode to raise funds for men’s health research and global health programs. The goal was to raise $5 million dollars worldwide, an amount they exceeded before year’s end. In New York City, 1,022 riders raised $153,706 when they rode through the five boroughs before celebrating at the South Street Seaport at the completion of the ride. I had attended the celebration last year, highly impressed with the pride riders took in their participation as well as their stylish appearance. I decided in that moment that I would take part in this worthy cause the following year. Wearing my favorite suit, shirt and tie, I rode this year with a few dozen gentlemen from the Westchester County, NY area. Our course took us along beautiful country roads on a magnificent sunny day with very little traffic—a perfect motorcycle experience. The Honda CD1100EX I rode was a retro design, but the fuel-injected 1140 cc engine and six-speed overdrive gearbox delivered performance no motorcycle
from the 1970s could have matched. Dressed in our finery with neckties flailing, our group must have made quite an impression as we passed. We stopped to rest on the banks of the magnificent Hudson River with an impressive view of the Newburgh–Beacon Bridge. The next phase of the trip took us through a twisty series of roads leading to a private airstrip in Wallkill, NY, the final stop on our tour. We enjoyed a lovely lunch outside, watching private planes take off and land. A delightful conversation with the owner of a vintage Cessna 170 resulted in an invitation to join him on a flight in his magnificent aircraft. We took off shortly thereafter to enjoy an incredible view of fall foliage beneath us. This experience, coupled with the wonderful Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride, was a memorable escapade that I look forward to doing again. The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride was founded in 2012 by Mark Hawwa, inspired by an image of Jon Hamm’s character (Don Draper) on the TV show Mad Men riding a classic motorcycle in his pressed and fitted ’60s-style suit. “The Distinguished Gentleman’s Ride has grown these past five years beyond anything I imagined,” says Hawwa, “not only in its reach and the number of participants, but in the number of people who now get themselves checked. Working with the Movember Foundation has allowed us to target key concerns in men’s health, helping men to live longer and happier lives.” BY DAVID A. ROSE
OPEN FOR BLISS-NESS
After last year’s hard-hitting hurricane season, most of the Caribbean is up and running—and better than ever. Now is the ideal time to support the vital tourism industries of these charming island nations.
Seven miles long with a population of only 2,500, the tiny island of North Bimini boasts a big history. Ernest Hemingway, who lovingly referred to it as the “island in the stream” and enjoyed the abundant big game fishing in the surrounding waters, wrote portions of The Old Man and the Sea here. Martin Luther King Jr. also visited Bimini several times, to fish, to clear his mind and to work on several of his powerful speeches. (You can still find, and chat with, Dr. King’s fishing guide, Ansil Saunders, an entertaining orator in his own right.) Head to ResortsWorld Bimini for its luxe
waterfront accommodations and array of activities. It offers the largest marina complex in the Bahamas, making big game fishing and island hopping a breeze. Gaze through the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the bright blue Caribbean waters as you receive a treatment in the Serenity Spa, or step out the doors of your suite directly into one of the infinity pools that span the resort. The luxuriously appointed casino is tastefully placed off the lobby and is the first in the world to offer panoramic water views. When you’ve experienced the diverse offerings at the on-premise restaurants and cafés (the Bimini bread French toast is not to be missed, best enjoyed delivered by room service and savored on your balcony), head into town for a fresh-caught conch salad at Stuart’s, or stop at Edith’s for deliciously unique pizzas. Wash it all down with Kalik: the Bahamas’ own light and refreshing beer. Ready to explore? Head out by bike or golf cart to any of the island’s white sand beaches. Charter a boat to snorkel through the SS Sapona shipwreck, then stop for a swim with (surprisingly gentle) stingrays at Honeymoon Cove. Just 30 minutes by plane from Miami, it still feels a world away. From the Northeast, Elite Airways offers direct flights from Newark that will have you experiencing Bimini Bliss in under three hours. —JL
There’s a reason Aruba is called “One Happy Island.” It boasts 19 miles of whitesand beaches and is covered in curiously tilted Divi-Divi trees. You can see the sparkling-blue Caribbean Sea everywhere you turn, and it’s filled with friendly locals, colorful wildlife, fresh seafood and rows of pastel-hued houses. On magical Aruba, there’s no such thing as a bad day—and because it floats outside the hurricane belt, we mean that literally. For a chic stay, head to the The Ritz-
Carlton Aruba. While the outside reflects the island’s demure Dutch roots, inside, it’s all Ritz-Carlton-level glam. With 320 rooms, a full-scale spa, four restaurants, separate kids and adult pools, personal butlers, and a 24-hour casino (you are in the “Vegas of the Caribbean, after all!), this five-star hotel is every jetsetter’s home away from home. Don’t believe us? Check out the club level; there’s even a hotel within a hotel. While Aruba is only 21-miles long,
ST. LUCIA On lovely St. Lucia, about three miles outside the town of Soufriere, lie the world-famous Pitons (mountainous volcanic plugs). Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the terrain of these two spires is supernaturally beautiful, dense with tropical forests. Situated between the peaks lies Sugar Beach, a Viceroy Resort, offering the only white sand beaches in the area. Here, no detail has been overlooked. Every reservation includes personalized 24-hour butler service. Executive chef Jacques Chretien, a native of France’s Loire Valley with nearly 30 years of experience, leads the culinary team, passionate about using the freshest local ingredients. The Sugar Club provides complimentary supervised fun for kids from four through 12, and babysitting services can also be arranged. Highlights of the onpremise Rainforest Spa include six tree house treatment structures, a temascal steam room (an earth and stone dome used by the island’s native Amerindians for health and religious purposes), and an open-air relaxation gazebo suspended over running water at the base of the Petit Piton. Featuring one of the Caribbean’s deepest natural anchorages, on one of the world’s most iconic shores, Sugar Beach’s location in the secluded Anse des Pitons bay also makes it the perfect jumping-off point to explore the southern Caribbean by boat. The islands await!
there’s plenty to do to keep you as busy as you want to be! For fun in the sun, hit the beach, do SUP yoga, go ATV off-roading in Arikok National Park, or dive underwater on a Seabob. For a more relaxing day, lounge in a hammock on the Instagramworthy Flamingo Island, named for the birds that roam freely around you. No matter how you spend your day, end it by sipping a pepper-red Aruba Ariba as you watch the electric-pink sunset: it’s the stuff of Caribbean dreams. —JA
DESTINATIONS Discovering good wine, food and hombres just south of the border.
It took all of 45 seconds to travel from the United States to Mexico in my leased Honda SUV. We (my friend Megan and myself) drove from Los Angeles to embark on a Thelma & Louise border-crossing roadtrip—without the unforeseen consequences, and sadly, minus anyone who looked remotely like Brad Pitt. We chose the Otay Mesa crossing because everyone said the Tijuana/San Ysidro border was too chaotic. Tecate was a touch too far for our timing; we wanted to reach our destination, Valle de Guadalupe, before the sun set. This route promised to be epic, stunning and all the topographic superlatives one emotes when cruising the open road. Valle de Guadalupe (the Guadalupe Valley) is Baja California North’s wine region. Guidebooks call it Mexico’s Napa, but Tru Miller, the Dutch-born owner of Adobe Guadalupe where we
stayed, describes the area as feeling more like Southern France and Northwest Italy. Wine country in Mexico? Tequila and mezcal, sure. Beer, even. But wine? Claro que si. After wildfires devastatingly ripped through Northern, Central and Southern California’s wine countries, I was curious to experience the fruits of viniculture quietly building a following just south of the border. We took the smoothly paved Highway 2 toward Tecate before hitting Highway 3 South. Snaking, winding curves zig-zagged and cross-backed along rolling hills, cutting through dynamited mountains and littered with smooth dinosaur egg-like boulders. This Mexico was more Paleolithic than Border Town. Just 90 miles south of San Diego, street signs are fewer, and roads
CRUISING THE HIGHWAY SOUTH
grow decidedly imperfect with dusty and heavily pocked stretches that make for a bouncier ride and a very dirty car. (I found a guy, Julio, who will hand-wash your car for 20 pesos outside an exceptional taqueria: Tacos Mi Ranchito El Fenix at the corner of Entre Espinoza and Calle Sexta in the heart of nearby Ensenada.) As we pulled up to Adobe Guadalupe, the six-room, hacienda-style estancia, sprays of salmon and tangerine etched across the sky welcoming us to a paradise. Don Ramón, the gatekeeper, greeted us. His presence added a layer of safety within the 60-acre vineyard. Agronomist José Fernández is responsible for the cultivation of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, nebbiolo, tempranillo, malbec, grenache, cinsault, mourvedre, syrah and viognier that ultimately appear in the tasting room, cellar and restaurants at Adobe. (Back in the US, French Laundry, Chef Rick Bayless’ Chicago foodspots, and various digs in La Jolla, California all carry Adobe’s blends.) The citrus and stone fruit trees, a vegetable garden ripe with variety: all present tastily under the culinary mastery of chef Martha Manríquez. 350 olive trees produce an olive oil so perfectly delightful that Miller purchased property in Ojos Negros to harvest pinots and expand the production of that spectacular olive oil. For breakfast we sat at the long, wooden family-style kitchen table, and ate dinner within the cozy living room. Guests roamed through the courtyard surrounded by portico entrances leading into the kitchen, living and dining rooms. Walking the land reveals a pool, two tasting rooms, a cellar, a shrine dedicated to Our Lady of Guadalupe, and a seasonal restaurant. Miller breeds horses, 26 to be exact. But perhaps most renowned is the Adobe Food truck helmed by Leda Gamboa and Chef Pita Gomez Islas. This pioneering first in the region is reason alone to make the drive. “You have to just come and see for yourself,” says Miller. “I tell people how beautiful it is, how safe we are here, to just take an Uber from America here, but no one really believes it until they actually experience all of this!” “All of this” is hundreds of wineries, award-winning restaurants, glamorous villas, private tastings in caves and infinity pools overlooking vineyards. Before Miller invited famous chefs-in-residence and leased the beloved Adobe food truck, before she brought proper wine tourism, oenophiles drove in for the afternoon to taste before winding their way back to the beach, staying in nearby Ensenada, Rosarito, La Misión, Tijuana or Tecate, or simply heading back over the border by the end of the day. Food is what puts Valle and Baja on the map, so eat everything! There’s the stylish, design-forward Encuentro, where the modern steel and glass bungalows perch on a rocky hillside. Across the dusty
street at the chic, earthy Bruma B&B are more pleasant wines to taste. Don’t miss Monte Xanic’s blends, or a cave tasting at Vena Cava within the rockstar, Villa de la Valle. You can’t come to Baja without hearing about celebrity chef Everything we did was accessible via Javier Plascencia. His notoriUber. Many Americans park in the US, then ety began at Misión 19 in walk across the border to hire a car share. Download the CBP Border Wait Times app, Tijuana; in Valle fans vie for which updates with fairly current a table at his Finca Altozano wait times at each border. and Finca Divina. There’s also Those with SENTRI/Global Entry access cross the border fastest. the delightful Deckman’s within the equally notable El Mogor winery. Insiders swear by La Cocina de Doña Esthela for breakfast, and anytime is a good time for fish tacos and a michelada at Valle 13. The annual Harvest Festival was a game changer for the region. Occurring in late July and through most of August, it’s an ideal time to visit—but book in advance. A few dozen wineries unite to create dinner pairings and live music performances. Chef Bayless crafted Adobe’s five-course dinners, and Adobe’s winemaker, Daniel Lonnberg, creates one-of-a-kind blends mixing wines from the 30 participating wineries. “We have everything here,” says Miller. “We have fires too, but so far, nothing that’s stopped us from growing.” BY SHIRA LEVINE
EXPLORE BEYOND THE VALLEY
A 20-minute drive out of Valle, in nearby coastal Ensenada, is another gem thoroughly worth exploring: a glamper’s paradise known as CuatroCuatros that feels like a San Tropez oasis in Mexico. Guests and day/evening visitors alike are dazzled by Mirador, CuatroCuatros’ undulating, supersexy cliffside lounge, where live music, wine and beer accompany those otherworldly sunset views. Before sunset though, pop into downtown Ensenada for made-to-order ceviche and oysters at La Concheria, where local favorite Madera 5 Sauvignon Blanc is the bottle to beat.
A ROCK STAR’S VIEW In his songs and now his photos, Gerry Beckley shares his world.
“It was a wonderful era we grew up in,” says Gerry Beckley of America, the beloved band that rose to fame in the 1970s. “Those were days of protest and passion—and millions of dollars in vinyl record sales. It was a perfect time to get into the music business.” Beckley and bandmates Dewey Bunnell and Dan Peek formed their group in England, naming it America to preclude being considered a British band. “I met Dewey and Dan at a small high school for dependents of US servicemen stationed in the UK. There were a few other bands at our school and we all played Top 40 stuff; it wasn’t until we began writing original material that we morphed into something special. I had made a few studio contacts in London and one thing led to another, which ultimately led to an offer from Warner Brothers. Our first album went right to number one; it was a pretty quick journey.” With success came almost-constant travel, and after a while, Beckley began photographing scenes from his hotel rooms. “For about 20 years I’ve been taking pictures while I travel to show my family and friends. (I’m on the road about 200 days a year, so it’s easy to lose track of where I’ve been.) It started as a series of shots from my hotel window: my self-imposed rules allowed me to zoom or pan a bit but not change rooms just for a better shot. For example, if I was in Paris and the Eiffel Tower was at the other side of the hotel, I didn’t change my room for a different view.” His works have recently been on view at the Morrison Hotel Galleries in NYC and LA, and can also be seen at morrisonhotelgallery.com. When asked about his personal style, Beckley talks about comfort. “The clothes I wear on stage are essentially the same clothes I wear day to day; I don’t have two different personas. I have friends in the clothing business and fashion fascinates me, but as I get older, I gravitate to things that feel comfortable. So while I enjoy nice clothes and keep up with the trends, I stick pretty much with classics.” As does his audience: at concerts these days, the old hits still steal the show. “We throw in a few new album cuts to mix it up a bit,” says Beckley. “But we love seeing the looks on people’s faces when we play the tunes that they came to hear.” BY DAVID A. ROSE
Every day is worth celebrating. 44
he cork is popped. Tiny bubbles dance, swirl and burst joyfully to awaken the senses. The occasion? Tuesday! What better way to honor family, friends and life than with some bubbles, be it Champagne or another sparkling wine? Crystal Hinds, owner and operator of Effervescence, the acclaimed Champagne bar located on the edge of the French Quarter in New Orleans, agrees. “Some of my fondest memories of my [French and Italian] family getting together are of the Champagne toasts: the sound of the pop, the good times, my dad saying a few words and everyone clinking their glasses. The older I got, the more I wished we could do that every day... until I ultimately realized, ‘We can!’ “Around the world, people drink sparkling wine all the time. It’s only recently that Americans are finally catching on: sparkling wine pairs well with many foods, and bubbles can be enjoyed throughout the year.” Hinds’ philosophy reflects a growing sentiment across the US. Exceptional Champagne bars now dot the map from coast to coast. Each has its own distinct vibe, but all are places to explore the different flavors and nuances of Champagne and sparkling wines from various winemaking regions in the country and around the globe. Effervescence is housed in a renovated historic home and feels like a cross between a lounge and a modern bistro. It offers close to 400 choices of Champagne and sparkling wine—33 by the glass—and 10 different flights that change throughout the year, including vertical tastings that provide the opportunity to compare the same wine from different years. With so many choices, budding enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike will find bubbly to expand their palates. Hinds suggests that customers feel at ease asking servers and sommeliers for suggestions, explanations and information. “We pride ourselves on having a knowledgeable and informative staff.” Many Champagne bars also host wine education classes or special tastings geared toward different levels of knowledge, and serve small plates that exquisitely complement their selection of sparkling wines, including cheese and charcuterie boards; caviar and oysters are always favorites as well. In most cases, the culinary fare provides an exclamation point to the evening. “I want our clients to really taste the flavors of the food and the sparkling wine: taste how they blend together and don’t overpower each other!” Effervescence has become a destination for dinner as well as for bubbly. The food is served on sharing plates for everyone to taste, to celebrate the gathering of friends and the communal experience of dining. Says Hinds, “In many formal settings, people feel that the Champagne cork should ‘sigh,’ never pop, but at Effervescence our philosophy is to pop the Champagne! We want to hear it!” BY LESLEY RUBENSTEIN
Four More Spots to Enjoy Fabulous Fizzy Feasts Visit these exceptional sparkling wine bars to enliven the spirits!
AMBONNAY CHAMPAGNE BAR
FLUTE BAR AND LOUNGE
POPS FOR CHAMPAGNE
• An intimate setting • Recognized by Food & Wine Magazine, among others, as one of the Best Bars in America • Features Champagne and sparkling wines by the glass and more than 100 different options by the bottle • Hosts tasting classes • Serves upscale snacks like truffle popcorn, cheese plates and olives
• Two locations with distinct personalities • Offers sparkling wines, Champagne, sparkling cocktails and a full bar • Features live jazz • Hosts Champagne School • Serves small plates such as Vietnamese-fusion spring rolls and house-made fois gras terrine with chutney
• The granddaddy of Champagne bars that’s been open for more than 30 years • Close to 150 choices of Champagne and sparkling wines; also serves cocktails, wine, beer • Hosts Mangum Mondays • Features live jazz • Serves a seasonal menu of small plates featuring charcuterie, oysters and caviar
• A sophisticated new spot • Features Champagne and sparkling wines by the glass and bottle, as well as other wines • Festive nibbles include cheese, charcuterie, caviar, waffle tater tots, chocolates and more • Offers brunch
THE RIDDLER PHOTO: KASSIE BORRESON
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Having witnessed my clothes flowing out of my closet and into the living room, my well-intentioned friends confirmed that I had an abnormal relationship with my things. Filled with heaps of clothes that had long overstayed their welcome, my burgeoning closet was crippling me. To sum it up, I’d turned into a closet case who couldn’t let go of anything. Even the women of Grey Gardens would have been appalled. But the problem amounted to more than a messy home; it was the daily trauma of getting dressed. Admittedly, I would freeze with confusion every morning, struggling amidst the chaos to pull together something suitable. And here’s the irony: like many people, I owned lots of clothes but never had anything to wear. Either nothing fit anymore, or else it had sadly slipped out of style. I realize I’m not the only one afflicted with a tendency to hoard; there are entire reality shows about it! If you, or someone you know, has a similar problem, let me share my surprisingly obvious fix—a timely closet cleaning. But to do it right, you’ll need a professional, a knowledgeable fashion insider to help execute that long-overdue cathartic purge. How I did it: I simply called my favorite store and explained my dilemma. They suggested that one of their consultants stop by to help me obtain some clarity. This consultant would act as my fashion therapist to help unravel the mystery of—to paraphrase The Clash—what should stay and what should go.
Fortunately, it’s no mystery to a professional! My style maven quickly determined which pieces were lost causes to be ditched and which could assume a meaningful new life by being donated to a worthy charity. He even took the rejected pile with him and donated it for me. What a relief! He also removed my delusions about my baggy cargo shorts ever again looking good on me (or anyone), boldly declaring the time had come for them to take a quick hike to the trash bin, along with all those billowy button-down dress shirts. He then put his expertise to work on what remained of my wardrobe, showing me fresh combinations that never occurred to me, and suggesting a few new pieces that would modernize my look (trim chino shorts, a slim-fit polo in purple, an unlined sport coat, incredibly lightweight jeans). I felt no pressure, but the few pieces I ultimately added are the ones I wear most often, the ones that inevitably lift my mood. And so my life has changed. A new confidence has replaced the frustration and wasted time of trolling through stuff that consumed endless emotional and physical space. An unexpected benefit: in addition to obtaining sartorial solace, I discovered my Peloton buried beneath a massive pile of shirts. With those extra minutes I gain getting dressed more efficiently, I can now allocate time to shrinking my midsection for a more comfortable fit into those new chino shorts. I’m starting now: summer’s waiting. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER
20TH CENTURY FOX/KOBAL/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK
No, I’m not talking about slim suits or skinny jeans. I’m talking about putting my overstuffed closet on a diet.
RODES FORUM SS 2018