raleigh
FALL / WINTER 2017 FALL FASHIONS
MADE-TO-MEASURE
BEAUTIFUL BERMUDA
THE PAGANI HUAYRA ROADSTER
CELEBRITY PHOTOGRAPHER
TOM HARDY
F A L L / W I N T E R 2 0 17
years and counting...
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60 YEARS OF ADVENTURE AND DISCOVERY
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CONTENTS fall/ winter 2017
FEATURES FEEL THE BREEZE | 32 Named after the Andean god of wind, the Pagani Huayra Roadster is a perfect blend of performance and style that will leave its drivers breathess.
The camera’s eye | 34 Photographer Harry Benson has captured images of celebrities ranging from Elizabeth Taylor to the Beastie Boys, and now he’s telling the stories behind some of his most well-known photos.
45 years...and counting | 48 Meet the Raleigh Menswear customers who return to the store year after year not only for the finest clothing but for sartorial advice and friendship too.
DEPARTMENTS Memo | 8 Celebrating 45 years of service and selection.
The raleigh Guide | 11 Classic elegance courtesy of Peter Millar...how to choose the very best plane seat...dessert cocktails…Ask Mr. Etiquette…and much more.
Essentials | 16 Stock up on all the season’s best shoes, shirts, ties, pants and more. THE LEADING MAN
TOM HARDY | 26
on the town
Look your best while hitting the streets.
4O
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On or off screen, there’s a rebel streak in this British actor-producer.
Room Key | 56 After a $100 million restoration, Bermuda’s Hamilton Princess is looking—and feeling— more splendidly regal than ever.
HOT UNDER THE COLLAR | 60 One of these five styles can complement your look, your mood—and even your face. Which one is best for you?
directory | 64 Your guide to the Raleigh experience.
ON THE COVER: Mike wears a topcoat by Eleventy, full zip sweater by Brunello Cucinelli, plaid shirt and trousers by Ermenegildo Zegna, scarf by Seaward & Stearn London, double monk strap shoes by Magnanni.
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THERE ARE MOMENTS
JAKE WOOD
T H AT T R A N S F O R M YO U .
MARINE VETERAN, TEAM RUBICON, SANDY RESPONDER
W H AT M AT T E R S I S W H E R E YO U ’ R E G O I N G N E X T.
WES MOORE
ARMY VETERAN, NON-PROFIT CEO, BEST-SELLLING AUTHOR
I H AV E D R E A M S .
JOE CARDONA
PURPOSE
U LT I M AT E LY, I DREAM TO SERVE.
NAVY RESERVE, PATRIOTS LONG SNAPPER, BUSINESS MAJOR
NEVER
ENDS
DISCOVER THEIR STORIES AT HICKEYFREEMAN.COM
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Nature is full of infinite causes Leonardo da Vinci
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OATS CASHMERE CITIZENS OF HUMANITY
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MEMO
raleigh RALEIGH LIMITED MENSWEAR THE FASHION MALL KEYSTONE AT THE CROSSING 317.844.1148 RALEIGHLIMITED.COM
STORE HOURS MONDAY TO SATURDAY: 10 A.M. TO 8 P.M. SUNDAY: NOON TO 6 P.M. Editorial Director CINDI KOPLOW Editor RITA GUARNA Art Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO managing Editor LANCE DEBLER Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Editorial assistant ALENA WOODS Art Assistant YVONNE MARKI
Celebrating 45 Years sneak peek
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make your mark! p. 11
W
hether you are an Indianapolis native or are new to the area, you are seeing changes to our metropolis like never before. But one thing has remained constant for more than four decades: Raleigh Limited Menswear has been part of the fabric of this great city since 1972. Sure, we have been here a long time, but we are never standing still. Since my father, Roland “Raleigh” Koplow, founded the store 45 years ago, our focus at Raleigh has been on providing a comfortable, inviting atmosphere where you can find the finest clothing options—from formal and fitted to casual and relaxed—to satisfy your every sartorial need. I’m proud to continue my father’s vision while creating an emotional connection that our clients feel every time they wear clothing that fits and feels great. And I’m honored that devoted customers like Thomas Mueller, Thomas Sams, Buddy Shaffer (the three of whom have been shopping with us for a combined 122 years) and many others have become trusted friends. As a thank you to all of you for your loyalty, please enjoy the special offers on page 22. When you visit us, you’ll discover new and exciting items that are all so important during the transition to cooler temperatures. New attentiongetting (and functional) knitwear—crewnecks, V-necks, cardigans, turtlenecks—from designers Brunello Cucinelli, Eleventy, Isaia and more comes in luxurious cashmeres, merinos and cottons. Soft jackets, such as those by Boglioli, are offered with sophisticated textures and colors and serve as the perfect cover for a brisk afternoon. For colder days and evenings, our selection of stylish outerwear will keep you warm and toasty. Brands like Canada Goose and Herno provide a range of coats and
jackets made with the world’s finest combination of technology and fashion. The Raleigh footwear department continues to expand its collection and now offers the widest variety of makers and styles in our store’s history. We trust that you’ll find your favorites here—Alden, Di Bianco, Salvatore Ferragamo and other labels. Fans of Magnanni shoes can get an up-close look at the brand during a special trunk show this fall. Other new made-to-measure clothing events and shows will feature top brands including Gimo’s, Ermenegildo Zegna, Samuelson and Stenströms. Flip to page 14 for details. In this issue of Raleigh, we present you with the best looks and merchandise for the fall. But we also provide some great articles that might excite your life. Read about the Pagani Huayra Roadster (page 32), a $2 million car that will take your breath away, or catch a glimpse of the iconic images by renowned photographer Harry Benson (page 34). Want a quick escape? A stay at the Hamilton Princess in Bermuda will make you feel like royalty (page 56). We hope you enjoy this special edition of Raleigh magazine. In this our 45th year, we raise a glass and toast all of you, our loyal clients. At Raleigh, we always embrace our past while we look forward to the future. MARK KOPLOW
Contributing Editor MARISA SANDORA Contributing Photographer DANIEL SPRINGSTON PUBLISHING STAFF Publisher SHAE MARCUS National Brand Manager MONICA DELLI SANTI Director of Production and Circulation CHRISTINE HAMEL Advertising Services Manager JACQUELYNN FISCHER Senior Art Director, Agency Services KIJOO KIM Production/Art Assistant ALANNA GIANNANTONIO Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK PUBLISHED BY Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, CHRISTINE HAMEL RALEIGH Magazine is published by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Raleigh. Copyright © 2017 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, RALEIGH, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email rita.guarna@wainscotmedia.com. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, RALEIGH Circulation Department, Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.
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THE A GOOD PEN PAYS
When they say the pen is mightier than the sword, they don’t mean a cheap ballpoint. No, those aggravating things go dry as a desert gulch when you grab them to jot down a phone number. You should invest in a quality writing instrument such as the Faber-Castell, and this brief “pen anatomy” lesson shows why. Write on! The tip: A pen with good ink flow limits the force required, which reduces your fatigue. Rollerball pens use liquid ink, which doesn’t require as much pressure to get flowing as the paste ink in a ballpoint pen. (However, a well-made ballpoint from Faber-Castell will still perform better than its cheaper drugstore counterpart.) The shaft: A good pen should be thick enough to comfortably hold onto; some designs feature hourglass shapes or contoured lines to assist grip. The weight: A quality pen feels substantial in the hand. It’s light enough to hold easily but heavy enough that you don’t have to put too much pressure on it to write. The design: Your pen speaks volumes about your style before you write a word, so make sure you like its look. Made with materials like pearwood and chrome in elegant patterns and vibrant colors, Faber-Castell pens are always in stock at Raleigh.
RALEIGH GUIDE PETER MILLAR’S ON THE BALL
It all started with a bowling ball. Chris Knott chose the name Peter Millar for the company he founded in 2001 from an inscription on an antique lawn bowling ball given to him as a gift by his mother. Knott felt that the name and the antique represented an era when people cared deeply about the kind of impression they made. And so the American luxury sportswear brand, characterized by classic elegance, was born. From patterned sport shirts and cashmere sweaters to five-pocket pants and wool trousers, Peter Millar has you covered from work to weekend. New for the fall: tartan and plaid shirts, cashmere sweaters, five-pocket pants, a collection of casual coats and much more. Stop by Raleigh Limited and let us show you the latest styles.
HE’S ALMOST ITALIAN
FALL/WINTER 2017 |
If being Italian were a matter of expertise, fashion guru Hugo Jacomet would be right there with pasta and that leaning tower. His new book, The Italian Gentleman: The Master Tailors of Italian Men’s Fashion (Rizzoli, $53) gives an in-depth look at the designers, tailors and artisans who for generations have defined Italian style. In its lavishly illustrated pages, more than 50 iconic Italian menswear fashion houses are celebrated for creating the world’s finest men’s clothing—with neckwear, shoes and accessories very much included. Surely we can forgive Hugo for being, you know, French.
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ROCK-SOLID FASHION Even if you can’t play a note on that guitar that’s sitting in your closet, you can still project a rock-star look. Join the band of men, dozens of well-known rockers included, who sing the praises of designer John Varvatos. (OK if you want to know who, how about Iggy Pop, Lenny Kravitz, Jimmy Page, Robert Plant and the members of Cheap Trick for a start.) For Varvatos, a multiple Menswear Designer of the Year award winner among his many accolades, fashion and rock music are entwined. Unashamedly masculine, Varvatos’ collections exude testosterone, yet they are, in his own words, “…not over the top.” His creations don’t patronize or exploit rock fashion, they respect it and even inspire it. In the words of Aerosmith’s Joe Perry (another Varvatos fan), “He has lent a lot of style to the rockers.” Launched in 2000, the Varvatos brand now represents an entire lifestyle. You can bet your vintage Fender that Varvatos will give you the rock god look you want— if you bring the requisite attitude. Ready to rock? Let the pros at Raleigh Limited help you find your best fit!
THE RALEIGH GUIDE FLY SITTING PRETTY
Which seat to snag on a plane? It depends on your goals: • If safety is your top priority, studies show you’re most likely to survive a crash if you sit in the seats just behind (not over) the wings. And choose an aisle seat so you can be the first to deplane in an emergency. • If storage is your goal, pick a seat at the rear. Most airlines board from the rear, so if you’re there you’ll have a better chance of getting overhead bin space. • Traveling with kids? Request the bulkhead, and you’ll get floor space for them to move around in— and maybe an airline-supplied bassinet. Plus, having no one in front of you means fewer folks your young ones can annoy. • Want more leg room? Go for an aisle seat in the
exit row. Exit rows usually offer a little more space, in part because the seats in the row in front of you can’t recline. • For a quiet ride, pick a seat as far forward as you can get. This puts distance between you and the noisy engines. Aisle seats are also quieter than window seats. • To get some sleep, go for a window seat toward the middle of the plane. You want to be as far from the bathrooms and galley areas as possible. And check online the day of your flight to see if there are any empty rows you could switch to. • For a smooth flight, choose a seat over the wings. The front and tail end of the plane tend to be a lot bouncier.
BOW TIE HISTORY 101
Like many wardrobe staples, the bow tie has military origins. It was part of the Croatian army uniform in the 17th century, as a strip of scarf to hold shirt collars together. When well-dressed Frenchmen got hold of it (their word cravat gained currency in centuries 18 and 19) it evolved into the bow we know. In the late 1800s, “black tie” attire featuring a black bow gained popularity among wealthy members of the Tuxedo Club in Tuxedo Park, N.Y. Nowadays, of course, men wear bow ties with suits and sportcoats too, not just tuxedos. Ready to get in touch with your inner bow tie guy? Raleigh has an up-to-date collection in stock.
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SAY YES TO HERNO
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Named after a small river in Italy, Herno made a name for itself in the 1940s and ’50s by manufacturing trench coats suited for the humid and rainy climate around Lake Maggiore. But the Italian brand soon became a fashion star when it added luxurious cashmere coats to its lineup. The collection today features trenches, car coats, parkas, bombers and jackets for the entire family, and the garments are defined by clean lines and sophisticated styling. And like its original trench coat, Herno outerwear is constructed using innovative fabrics, meaning they’ll protect you splendidly from the elements. The rain gear, for instance, is designed so moisture easily evaporates, allowing you to stay dry even if you’re caught in a fall shower. New to Herno? Stop by Raleigh Limited and browse the designer’s collection of men’s coats and jackets.
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THE RALEIGH GUIDE DRINK YOUR DESSERT
Today’s with-it diners piggyback their pleasures with a dessert cocktail. Talk about the perfect after-dinner treat: They’re typically lower in alcohol than traditional cocktails and can be easier on the waistline (and conscience) than a sinful bowl of ice cream. Tiramisu Cocktail or Salted Caramel Martini? Delicious! “A Peppermint Dream Cocktail has a marvelous density,” says Warren Bobrow, author of Bitters and Shrub Syrup Cocktails. “The rum and condensed milk are a tangle of salubriousness.” Worried that a sweet sip might ruin your image? “Try it with a cigar,” Bobrow suggests. “Now that’s heaven!”
PICK YOUR POCKET SQUARE
How a man folds his pocket square speaks volumes about his mood. Feeling traditional? A classic presidential fold is the way to go. This sharp, clean, no-nonsense rectangular shape suggests simple elegance. Bold and brazen today? Try the more intricate three-point crown fold. It takes a bit of practice, but its eye-catching design is worth it. A more freeform puff fold could be just the thing for a creative mood—it’s easy and gives off a casual vibe. And if you’re feeling romantic, a rose fold (pictured) makes an ardent statement. Prefer a silk square? Here’s a tip for you: Use a small piece of balled tissue paper with the pocket square to keep the accessory in place all day long. With pocket squares, each day is a chance to be someone new.
TRUNK SHOWS:
YOUR ALL-ACCESS PASS
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Raleigh’s trunk shows are an opportunity to meet representatives of your favorite brands and have clothing, shoes and other items custom-made. Upcoming trunk shows and special events include: SEPTEMBER 7 Samuelson, Stenströms and Magnanni OCTOBER 13 Ermenegildo Zegna NOVEMBER 3 AND 4 Gimo’s men’s and women’s NOVEMBER Brunello Cucinelli
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THE A–Z LIST Raleigh Limited Menswear features dozens of the world’s finest designer brands under one roof. See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love.
ASK MR. ETIQUETTE
Mark Koplow explains how to sail through life without giving offense. I’ve prepped myself for an interview more aggressively than Presidential candidates practice for televised debates. And I have a fresh résumé, a sharpened pencil and a brand new legal pad. Now, what do I wear to telegraph a pulled-together, I’mserious-about-this-job look? —Insecure in Indianapolis A suit. An interviewee should dress conservatively, in either navy or charcoal, solid or with a subtle plaid or stripe. And fit is important, so your suit should be properly tailored and pressed. On that acceptable foundation, give yourself some leeway for self-expression. Your dress shirt should be solid, striped or with a small check. Go for soft colors that complement your skin tone. Choose an attractive tie that makes you stand out without appearing showy. Shoes should be classic with a fresh polish. Look at your prospective employer’s website for an idea of what executives are wearing in their photos. LinkedIn profiles will also help.
06451/ 34 HERITAGE ALBERTO ALDEN ANDERSON’S BOGLIOLI BOSCA BRAX BRITSH APPAREL COLLECTION BRUNELLO CUCINELLI CANALI CORNELIANI CULTURATA DAVID DONAHUE DI BELLO DI BIANCO DONALD J PLINER ELEVENTY ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ETON ETRO EYEBOBS FRYE GIMO’S GRAN SASSO GRAVATI HERNO HICKEY FREEMAN HILTL INCOTEX ISAIA ITALO FERRETTI JAKE AGAVE JKT JOHN VARVATOS LBM LEFT COAST TEE LUCIANO BARBERA LUIGI BIANCHI MAGNANNI MARCOLIANI MEYER NEW BALANCE NORWEGIAN WOOL PANTHERELLA USA PAUL BETENLY PAUL & SHARK PETER MILLAR PSYCHO BUNNY PT01 RAFFI RAG & BONE ROBERT GRAHAM
ROBERT JENSEN ROBERT TALBOTT RUN ON CLOUDS SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SAMUELSOHN SAND SANTONI SANTO STEFANO SARTORE SAXX STENSTRÖMS SWIMS TRASK VINCE WATERVILLE/ TRILUXE WIGENS W. KLEINBERG ZANELLA
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ESSENTIALS
WE’VE GOT YOU COVERED | RALEIGH
Whether you’re headed to a big game, client meeting or charity ball, Raleigh will make you stand out at your next event.
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Cashmere sweaters by Kinross Cashmere.
GAME DAY Clockwise from top left: blue wool and brown leather vest by Peter Millar, blue suede lace-up shoes by Alden, plaid multicolor shirt by Paul & Shark, white wool sweater with navy trim by 06451/, brown five-pocket corduroy pants by Alberto.
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ESSENTIALS
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Clockwise from top left: blue striped suit by Isaia, blue striped shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, burgundy paisley tie by Robert Talbott, socks by Marcoliani, black lace-up shoes by Magnanni.
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ESSENTIALS
BALLROOM
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Clockwise from top left: black tuxedo by Canali, black velvet bow tie by Eton, black and white feather bow tie by Brackish, black paisley velvet bow tie by Italo Ferretti, tuxedo shirt by Eton, white pocket square by Paolo Albizzati, hourglass and drone cufflinks by Tateossian, socks by Punto, black velvet shoes by Salvatore Ferragamo.
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45 ANNIVERSARY SPECIAL OFFERS TH
100 OFF ANY PURCHASE $
OF $300 AT RALEIGH MENSWEAR
MUST PRESENT THIS COUPON TO RECEIVE CREDIT. ONE COUPON PER CUSTOMER. MAY NOT BE COMBINED WITH ANY OTHER DISCOUNTS OR OFFERS. EXCLUDES SHOES, SPECIAL ORDERS AND APOTHECARY. OFFER EXPIRES NOV. 15, 2017
20 OFF ANY ON REGULAR %
PRICED ITEM AT RALEIGH MENSWEAR
MUST PRESENT THIS COUPON TO RECEIVE CREDIT. ONE COUPON PER CUSTOMER. MAY NOT BE COMBINED WITH ANY OTHER DISCOUNTS OR OFFERS. EXCLUDES SHOES, SPECIAL ORDERS AND APOTHECARY. OFFER EXPIRES NOV. 15, 2017
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At Sullivan’s, martinis are shaken and conversation stirs. Every dish is as succulent as the vibe is seductive. Swing by and experience our extensive renovations. 317.580.1280
| 3316 East 86th
| Indianapolis, IN
SullivansSteakhouse.com ©2017 Sullivan’s Steakhouse.
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THE LEADING MAN
Hardy Soul On or off screen, there’s a rebel streak in British actor-producer Tom Hardy.
I
Still, Hardy’s badness wasn’t just image. In youth he got caught in a stolen Mercedes with a friend—and a firearm. And his drug problem, till he got sober in 2003, was serious. “Tom, you need to wake up,” he says he told himself. We’re all jarred awake when he bares his chest—he’s seen to that, having tattooed himself with everything from Buddha to the London skyline. (Reportedly his Oscar nomination lost him a bet with DiCaprio, obliging him to add “Leo knows everything” in script to his muchdecorated bod.) But he’s interesting in clothes too. Often seen casually wearing a leather bomber jacket, ripped jeans and a T-shirt (perhaps one showing him choking Revenant director Alejandro Iñárritu—he had such shirts made as a gag after a disagreement), he also cleans up with flair, as the premiere proved. The two-time dad just turned 40, and a guy does change. But even a mellower Hardy will always love outré haircuts, brass snake belt buckles and juicy villain roles. And as an actor, he’s not bad.
Clockwise from top left: Hardy cut a dapper figure at the premiere of Legend, wearing a three-piece suit and skinny tie; Hardy’s piercing blue eyes have won him legions of female fans; for the UK premiere of The Revenant, Hardy chose a grey double-breasted Burberry suit; often sporting an unkempt beard, Hardy is known for his scruffy facial hair.
FALL/WINTER 2017
s moviedom’s “bad boy” mellowing? Actorproducer Tom Hardy’s trademark feistiness about directors was AWOL in July at the London premiere of the World War II actioner Dunkirk. Wearing a three-piece, diamond-printed Gucci suit with a burgundy pocket square and a whitecollared, vertical-striped blue shirt, he purred praise for director Christopher Nolan: “I’ll do anything for him—within reason.” Maybe it’s the characters he plays. The brawny Brit left a bloody Leo DiCaprio in the woods to die in his Oscar-nominated turn in 2015’s The Revenant. But his RAF pilot in Dunkirk only assaulted the enemy from the cockpit of a Spitfire. Or maybe Hardy’s always been a secret pussycat. The son of an artist (Anne) and an ad executive/comedy writer (Edward “Chips”), he grew up in the London suburb East Sheen and oozed into acting at London’s Drama Centre, snagging 2001 roles in TV’s Band of Brothers and the movie Black Hawk Down. He’s even collaborated on projects with Dad, though his career proves he’s more than a block off the old Chips.
By Timothy Kelley
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317.843.3810 WWW.ABREUMOTORS.COM
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FEEL THE BREEZE
Named after the Andean god of wind, the Pagani Huayra Roadster is a perfect blend of performance and style that will leave its drivers breathless. Italian maker Pagani blew the roof off of the Huayra Coupe to create its airier, lighter and faster cousin. The Roadster is a true combination of innovative design and sheer power (a 6.0-liter twin-turbocharged Mercedes AMG V12 ensures the latter), and it’s the ultimate ride to get from point A to point B—if your intention is to turn heads and get to your destination as fast as possible.
Because every part of the Huayra Roadster is hand-built, production of each car is expected to be slower than most. Company founder Horatio Pagani says it’s the most complicated project he’s undertaken—and that’s the reason only 100 of these supercars will be manufactured.
At 2,821 pounds, the Roadster is 176 pounds lighter than its predecessor, the Huayra Coupe. With less weight and new carbon-titanium paneling, the Roadster can complete the 0–60 sprint in a blistering sub-3 seconds. Whew!
For comfortable driving in a variety of conditions, a state-of-the-art electronic stability control system (ESC) features five modes: Wet, Comfort, Sport, Race and ESC off.
Four movable flaps—two in the front and a pair in the back—improve downforce and help maintain stability, especially when the top is down.
Pirelli developed P Zero Corsa tires specifically for the Huayra Roadster. Pagani says the tires enable 1.80 g of lateral grip—a major factor for that 0–60 time.
| RALEIGH
A large, fresh air intake and a front-end splitter help generate speed. Both were designed to optimize the vehicle’s aerodynamics.
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Circular taillights on both sides of a bank of four exhaust pipes play up the curves and rounded edges of the car’s body.
The centerpiece of the Huayra Roadster’s interior is the seven-speed, single-clutch paddleshift gearbox.
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The rear-mounted twin-turbocharged MercedesAMG engine was designed and built specifically for Pagani. It generates a breathtaking 754 horsepower at 6,200 rpm. Now that’s some giddy-up!
Starting Price:
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$2.4 million
FALL/WINTER 2017
Two removeable roof types give drivers an open-air experience: A carbon-fiber top with large glass panel offers a coupe-like appearance when installed, and a carbon-fiber frame with fabric can be stowed away in the car and attached when needed.
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Harry Benson took this striking photo of late Amy Winehouse at The Savoy hotel in London in 2007. He remembers being impressed by the singer’s “European, old-fashioned manners.”“There was no coarseness,” says the photographer, who’s the subject of the Magnolia Pictures documentary Harry Benson: Shoot First, available on Netflix. “She served a cup of tea to everyone on the shoot and poured herself a cup last.”
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the camera’s eye FALL/WINTER 2017
Renowned photographer Harry Benson has captured iconic images of celebrities ranging from Elizabeth Taylor to the Beastie Boys and has photographed every president since Eisenhower. Now, with his upcoming retrospective book, Harry Benson: Persons of Interest, he’s telling the stories behind some of his most well-known photos.
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Above: Benson was there when the Berlin Wall came down in 1989. He had also photographed it going up. Right: Benson was standing next to Robert Kennedy when he was shot in 1968 in Los Angeles and captured this heartbreaking image of Ethel Kennedy. “While I’m changing film, other people were shot around me,” Benson remembers. “I was the last photographer to leave.”
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Above: Benson took his famous photo “Berlin Kiss” in 1996. “A good picture is a glimpse,” he says. “It’s a moment.” The Harry Benson: Persons of Interest collection isn’t the photographer’s only book on the market—The Beatles on the Road 1964-66 was recently reprinted by Taschen.
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on the town
| RALEIGH
Look your best while you’re hitting the streets.
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From left, grey peak lapel suit, dress check shirt and striped tie by Ermenegildo Zegna, pocket square by Etro, brown belt by W. Kleinberg. Navy flannel pinstripe suit by Samuelsohn, brown V-neck sweater and paisley tie by Ermenegildo Zegna, dress shirt by Eton, pocket square by Italo Ferretti.
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From left, blue jacket, cotton polo and blue jeans by Paul & Shark. Blue vest and down sweater by Gran Sasso, jeans by Paul & Shark.
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Purple plaid sportcoat by Boglioli, grey vest by Gran Sasso, purple paisley shirt by Sand, charcoal five-pocket pants by Peter Millar.
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Purple sportcoat, shirt and scarf by Etro, five-pocket pants by Alberto.
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Opposite page, from left: brown plaid sportcoat by Canali, brown shirt by Robert Talbott, pocket square by Etro, grey flannel pants by Ermenegildo Zegna, brown belt by Anderson’s. Brown vest and plaid overshirt by Luciano Barbera, brown turtleneck by Gran Sasso, twill five-pocket jeans by 34 Heritage, woven brown belt by Anderson’s.
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| RALEIGH
Blue lined denim jacket, blue plaid shirt and jeans by Brunello Cucinelli, tan sweater by Isaia.
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Brown leather jacket by John Varvatos, grey turtleneck sweater by Eleventy, brown five-pocket pants by Peter Millar.
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AND COUNTING...
| RALEIGH
YEARS, THAT IS
At Raleigh Limited Menswear, our loyal customers return to the store year after year not only for the finest suits, sportcoats, shirts and shoes, but for sartorial advice and our friendship too.
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37 YEARS
THOMAS MUELLER, M.D. Retired cardiologist, freelance photographer
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“I found Raleigh Limited Menswear by accident. I was walking through the mall and was unfamiliar with the area, because I’d just moved there. Thirty-seven years later, and I’m still listening to David’s advice, and my wife thinks that’s a good thing. He has sold me almost all of the clothes I’ve purchased at Raleigh. I can call him up and ask him to put a few things on hold, and they’ll be waiting for me when I get there. Now that I’m retired, I have been pursuing photography full-time. I started taking pictures in medical school and have been at it for 40 years. One day, while in the store, I mentioned that if they ever changed photographers, I’d love to shoot for them, and they gave me a chance. I loved photographing Raleigh customers for this feature. I even got to photograph Simon Pagenaud, the IndyCar Champion of 2016 for the magazine’s front cover last spring. I thoroughly enjoy all of the time I spend with Raleigh.”
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65 YEARS
THOMAS SAMS Retired
| RALEIGH
“When I was a young boy, probably around 10 years old, my father used to bring me along on his trips to The Squire Shop, which was an upscale clothing store owned by Mark’s uncle, Lenny. Dad’s schedule would not allow for him to come in during regular hours, so Lenny would open the store after closing time just for us. My dad was a man of style: the best shirts, monogrammed cuffs, and shoes with the best shine. He and actor Cary Grant have always been my style icons. These outings were how I first came to know Raleigh, Mark’s father, who also worked in the shop. That was 65 years ago, and Mark now helps me pick out what I want from the store. He knows what is right and not right for me—and so far he has never been wrong. I bought an elephant-hide belt the first week Raleigh opened and have worn it almost daily since. It still looks as good as the day I bought it.”
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20 YEARS
BUDDY SHAFFER
Manufacturers’ representative in the home furnishings industry
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“I’ve been traveling my whole life—visiting places like Beverly Hills, Miami, Florence and Paris—and of all the stores I’ve been to, Raleigh is the most impressive. My kids took me there for the first time about 20 years ago. Since I’m in the home furnishing business, I immediately noticed the store’s great look and the overall quality of everything. I actually still have half a dozen Left Coast Tee sport shirts from Raleigh, which were some of my first purchases there. It just goes to show how great the quality of the clothes are—they last and last. The guys in the shop are always honest; they’ll never try to shove things down your throat. If they don’t like something on you, they’ll tell you. When they called and asked if I wanted to be a part of this feature, I answered, “Are ya kidding?!” and here I am, modeling for Raleigh. I was told to bring in the newest suit I bought from the store, which I had recently worn in Vegas with blue shoes. “Should I bring the blue shoes?” I asked. “Absolutely not! NO blue shoes!” the boss said back, and that’s the honesty you’ll always get with him. If I order something from the store, the clothes will arrive at my house in perfect condition. Everyone at Raleigh wants you to look your best and they always do such wonderful work.”
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Shop Local
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ROOM KEY
royalty reborn
After a $100 million restoration, Bermuda’s Hamilton Princess is looking— and feeling—more splendidly regal than ever. By Rita Guarna
| RALEIGH
I
sn’t it every girl’s dream to be a princess? It was almost as nice, I can report, to spend a few days living like one—at the Hamilton Princess on the beautiful island of Bermuda. I’d stayed at Bermuda’s other “Princess”—the Fairmont Southampton, formerly the Southampton Princess—decades ago and vowed to check out her sister urban luxury resort someday. What better time than right after a comprehensive restoration? The Hamilton Princess sits on the outskirts of Hamilton, Bermuda’s capital and financial center, and first welcomed guests in 1885, two years after a real-life princess, Louise, a daughter of Queen Victoria, was enchanted by the island. It was Louise who inspired the five-star resort’s name. No doubt she’d be equally pleased with its recent $100 million facelift. Only the best for royalty! The Pink Palace, as the hotel has been called, does not disappoint. While I was still awed by its classic exterior, there, suddenly, was a contemporary lobby with jaw-dropping, museum-quality pieces by noted artists. Lots of hotels have fine art, but this one makes you feel as if you’ve walked into a world-class gallery. Any old dame is sure to feel like young royalty feasting on cuisine by celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson or taking a curated art tour, ogling the more than 60-piece collection by the likes of Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst and Tom Wesselmann, or lying semi-submerged on beach hammocks suspended over vibrant blue waters, or unwinding at a new Exhale-branded spa, a sprawling—8,200-squarefoot—yet serene spa and fitness center overlooking the harbor. Less than two hours from the U.S. East Coast, Bermuda is part of a 21-square mile, 180-island archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic. It’s perfect for those craving prim-and-proper British civility (think afternoon tea and cricket matches) amid gorgeous beaches and friendly people clad, of course, in the shorts that share the island’s name. It’s no wonder the resort is popular among both vacationers and businesspeople: It’s amazingly well-
run; soon after arriving I felt that here all my needs would be met. Rooms and suites come with harbor, garden, pool or city views. Ours overlooked the harbor, and I must admit that sipping a cocktail on the balcony above the 60-berth marina and watching the comings and goings of superyachts can be hypnotic. Bathrooms are modern marble marvels with a lovely line of Le Labo Rose 31 toiletries. When it’s time to dine, the Hamilton Princess offers choices that put to shame the cookie-cutter eateries at many resorts. The 1609 Bar and Restaurant, named for the year the first colony was established here, is the only one at the new marina and offers fresh-from-the-boat seafood, salads, sandwiches and burgers. We loved the charred octopus, crispy conch fritters and fish tacos for lunch. For breakfast, the Crown & Anchor boasts a huge buffet (a la carte choices too), and you can dine alfresco. The hotel’s crowning culinary glory is Marcus’, Chef Samuelsson’s ode to island fare. The “Ol’ Man’s Shrimp & Grits” was lick-your-plate good; the “Steak Frites” a carnivore’s delight. We ate there twice, and both times were wonderful: fresh, delicious food (think multilayered flavors), great service and perfect people-watching. While you can easily lounge around the hotel and feel completely content, a playground beckons. For one thing, Bermuda is a golf lovers’ dream, with more courses per capita than anywhere else in the world. One award-winning course, Robert Trent Jones’ Port Royal, has stunning views of the ocean. In fact, the 16th hole requires a 235-yard shot over the Atlantic. As one would expect, Bermuda is one of the best places to sail (no wonder the island played host to the 35th staging of America’s Cup this summer, beating out respected sailing venues like Newport and San Diego). You don’t need to be a professional contender to enjoy the sport: The island’s Great Sound, with warm water and perfect wind—usually around 10–15 miles per hour—makes it ideal for an afternoon of zipping along the sea. Lazier types will delight in one of the pink-
tinged sand beaches (the hue comes from crushed coral from the nearby reef) that line the 75 miles of coastline. Most of the action is at sea level, of course, but if you want to see everything, head underground too. The Crystal & Fantasy Caves in Hamilton have beautiful natural rock formations that are reflected in the caves’ 55-foot-deep pool, giving it an otherworldly feel. History buffs will rejoice in the maritime heritage of this British naval stronghold. Some 91 old forts dot the island and many are open to the public. The Royal Naval Dockyard (it’s been there since the 17th century) is interesting but a tad touristy, as it’s close to the cruise ship port. Check out Fort Hamilton in Pembroke Parish for a less crowded look at old military might. Another fine choice, Fort St. Catherine, is located in St. George, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was founded in 1612. You’ll be exploring on foot, as no car rentals are allowed. If you must have wheels, rent a scooter (remember to “drive” on the left). Or, better yet, buckle up in one of the Hamilton Princess’s two-seat Renault Twizy electric vehicles. The narrow, four-wheel Twizy, a compound of “twin” and “easy,” was designed by Renault’s Formula One racing team and can travel up to 50 miles on a single charge. We found it perfect for touring St. George and drove it to Gibbs Hill Lighthouse, one of the oldest cast-iron lighthouses in the world. All that exploring is sure to make you hungry again. Why not try the fish chowder, which is about as close to a national dish as you’ll find? It’s a Manhattan-chowderesque number prepared with tomatoes and onion and seasoned with black rum. Should you get thirsty, every bar proudly serves the Dark ’n Stormy, the island’s signature cocktail. Made with dark rum and ginger beer, the tipple is trademarked by Gosling’s Rum, the oldest and largest export business on the island. It’s a refreshing concoction that in no way resembles the cloyingly sweet rum punches we’ve all tried on other islands. Raise your glass to offer a royal toast—not so much to this delightful visit, but perhaps, to your next.
Opposite page, from top, left to right: Watching yachts taxi in and out of the marina is a leisurely activity at Bermuda’s Hamilton Princess; famed Chef Marcus Samuelsson created a menu inspired by island fare for his restaurant, Marcus’; the iconic hotel offers rooms and suites overlooking the ocean, garden, pool or city; visitors can take in the oceanfront view from Marcus’ or enjoy the more than 60-piece art collection by renowned artists likes Andy Warhol, Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst and Tom Wesselmann.
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Elvis © 2007 Russell Young
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MADE-TO-MEASURE
Hot Under The Collar One of these five styles can complement your look, your mood—and even your face. Which one is best for you?
This style is known as fashion’s safest bet—from the way its points perfectly meet and then disappear into a sportcoat to its crisp look even when you’re not wearing a tie, the spread collar is suitable for any occasion. It can also help a thinner man look more proportioned. How? The collar’s wide look is the perfect counterpoint to long facial features.
| RALEIGH
By Lance Debler
SPREAD COLLAR
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POINT COLLAR
BUTTON-DOWN COLLAR
CUTAWAY COLLAR
CLUB COLLAR
The most popular style of collar, found on some 90 percent of all men’s dress shirts, the point is best for men who prefer a medium to small tie knot. Perhaps most important, it’s extra-flattering on a man with round features, as its elongating effect will visually lengthen (and hence slim) his face. Conversely, a man with a thin face may want to avoid the point collar, as it’ll only elongate his mug.
This style gained popularity in the mid-19th century when England’s Eton College was looking for a way to distinguish its students’ uniforms from that of other educational institutions. It eventually became known as the club collar to convey an air of sophistication, and enjoyed a revival when period TV shows began featuring characters in them (think Mad Men’s Don Draper). They’re best for a cocktail party or an elegant event, when you’re feeling adventurous and want to mix poise with a bit of playfulness.
FALL/WINTER 2017
Sometimes referred to as a Windsor collar—because it provides plenty of room for a Windsor tie knot—this style emerged in the 1930s and is considered a more pronounced version of the spread collar. Wear one for a jaunty look that sets you apart with a bold, yet nuanced fashion statement.
A hallmark of more casual shirts, this collar is perfect for the man who’s forgoing a necktie for the day and still wants a crisp, clean look. Not ready to toss the tie? Wear one with a button-down collared shirt for an instantly preppy vibe.
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In a world of change, our focus is steadfast.
317-261-1900 Not FDIC Insured
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No Bank Guarantee
www.dmdcap.com May Lose Value
© 2016 Diamond Capital Management
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THE SERVICE DIRECTORY
RALEIGH PERSONAL SERVICE As a family-owned business, we take a lot of pride in everything we do at Raleigh. We have the finest sales professionals that you will find anywhere, and our experienced tailoring staff works diligently to make sure that you look great. Our commitment to our customers goes beyond the sale. Service impacts every part of our business, and our goal is to constantly exceed your expectations. Here are some of the things we do to take care of you. Of course, special requests are always welcome!
EXPERTISE A central part of the Raleigh Experience is superlative service in a relaxed atmosphere. If you want to browse in private, you’re more than welcome. When you need expert, individual attention, you’ll get it—instantly and for as long as you want. Our knowledgeable staff is well versed in all of the brands we carry, the trends of the season and how to fit every body type. They stand ready to advise you on all matters of wardrobe and accessories.
DELIVERY We understand that sometimes it’s a challenge to get to the store to pick up your alterations. Just let us know when and where, and we’ll be happy to deliver them to you.
SHOPPING BY APPOINTMENT
SPECIAL ORDERS
Sometimes it’s hard to part with old friends. We can help. When you shop for your new seasonal wardrobe, our sales associates will come to your home and let you know which items are worn or out of style, and suggest how to coordinate your existing clothes with new additions. We’ll even take your old clothes and donate them to a local charity on your behalf.
Whether it’s a suit, sportcoat or a pair of shoes, if you can’t find what you’re looking for, just let us know. We’ll do our best to find it from one of our many resources.
TAILOR SHOP Our on-site tailor shop is at your disposal for alterations to your Raleigh purchases. We provide sameday service when necessary and can usually handle minor alterations while you wait. The same goes for emergency repairs and routine wardrobe maintenance, such as tightening loose buttons: Bring the garment in, and we’ll fix that button on the spot.
RALEIGH GIFT CARDS A Raleigh Gift Card guarantees your gift will be the perfect style, size and color. Purchase a gift card at the store in any denomination you choose for a remembrance that will dazzle any lucky recipient.
MADE-TOMEASURE SERVICE Our Made-to-Measure service takes advantage of the relationships we have established with Italian manufacturers to deliver a suit that is smart and sexy—and a good value— in just four to six weeks. You won’t find a better plan to look your best.
COFFEE BAR Like any gracious host, we always offer our guests something to drink. The Lavazza Bar is the perfect place to relax, reflect and enjoy coffee, espresso, cappuccino or a cool drink in between trips to the dressing room. Keep up with the latest scores on our flat screen. Need to charge your iPhone or iPad? No problem. We’ve got all the bases covered.
PICTURE THIS Sure, all of your new clothes look great at the store, but sometimes, once you get home, it’s hard to remember what goes with what. Just ask and we’ll be happy to photograph your ensembles.
| RALEIGH
If our store hours don’t fit your schedule, call us. If you’re a morning person who finds 7 a.m. the ideal time for your Raleigh Experience, we will arrange to be here. Shopping by appointment allows us to give you the personal attention and shopping time you need, when your schedule permits.
CLOSET CLEANING
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A
THE RT OF PERSONAL SERVICE
261-9000
©2016 The National Bank of Indianapolis
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www.nbofi.com
Member FDIC
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