Pockets: Fall/Winter 2016

POCKETS FALL FASHIONS

FALL / WINTER 2016

THE ART OF CHARCUTERIE

THE GOOD LIFE

SMART SARTORIAL PIECES /

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SKIING IN SPAIN

HOT STUFF

SICILIAN WINES

STOCK UP ON THESE FASHION MUST-HAVES FOR THE SEASON / PAGE 12

MICHAEL CAINE

IF THE SUIT FITS

C O S TA R I C A

TRY MADE-TO-MEASURE ON FOR SIZE / PAGE 18

M A D E -T O - M E A S U R E G U I D E

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FEATURING: MICHAEL CAINE: MAN OF STYLE / PAGE 20 SKIING THE PYRENEES / PAGE 34

CUTTING-EDGE CHARCUTERIE / PAGE 36 F A L L / W I N T E R 2 0 16

SIPPING SICILIAN /

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BLACK BAY BRONZE BRONZE CASE DIAMETER 43 MM WATERPROOF TO 200 M (660 FT) IN-HOUSE MOVEMENT

Aluminum bronze alloy case. An aesthetic reference to historic ships and other diving equipment, this metal guarantees the development of a subtle and unique patina to match its user’s habits.

TUDOR in-house movement MT5601.

Offering a 70-hour power reserve and regulated by a variable inertia oscillator with silicon balance spring, it is certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

TUDOR, BLACK BAY ®.

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CONTENTS f/w 2016

FEATURES road warrior | 24 The Mercedes-AMG GT S has serious rock star presence that transcends its elegant design.

Sporting life | 34 You may not think Spain and skiing go together, but BaqueiraBeret in the Pyrenees will make you think again.

the art of charcuterie | 36 For enthusiasts of this newly resurgent cooking style the meat is cured, but not the addiction.

THE GOOD LIFE

Smart sartorial choices will make you look and feel your best—no matter what you’re doing.

| POCKETS MENSWEAR

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DEPARTMENTS Memo | 4 What’s in store for fall at Pockets.

The pockets Guide | 7 Moore & Giles bespoke…Ask Mr. Etiquette…survive a long flight…

Sealup outerwear…personal concierge services…and more.

the techie | 10 A smart sleep mask? You didn’t know you wanted one… until now!

Essentials | 12 Update your wardrobe and stock up on these fashion must-haves for the season.

being bespoke | 18 Take your wardrobe to the next level with Pockets’ Made-to-Measure service.

THE LEADING MAN

michael caine | 20 In his screen demeanor and the way he wears a suit, this cool Cockney is the epitome of smooth.

grape | 42 After a ho-hum era, vintners on historic Sicily are winning new respect.

Room Key | 46 Soak in the hot springs at Costa Rica’s Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort.

music | 48 These singer-songwriters draw you into their realms of heartache and exaltation.

ON THE COVER: Grey windowpane sportcoat by Canali, tan sweater by Luciano Barbera, check shirt by Eton, pocket square by Massimo Bizzocchi, brown trousers

by PT01, loafers by Adam Derrick.

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INVITATION TO STYLE

STAFF PICKS

Our in-house fashion experts give us

the scoop on what’s hot this season.

POCKETS THE PLAZA AT PRESTON CENTER 4000 VILLANOVA, DALLAS, TX 75225 214.368.1167 POCKETSMENSWEAR.COM STORE HOURS MONDAY TO SATURDAY: 10 A.M. TO 6 P.M.

ANDY WEIL

Editorial Director ANDY WEIL

n Plaid sportcoat by Belvest n Shirt by Alessandro Gherardi n Cashmere quarter-zip sweater by

Editor MARK DOWDEN Art Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO

Della Ciana n Pants by Incotex n Belt by Simonnot-Godard n Pocket square by Eton

Managing Editor NICOLE LUPO

Executive Editor RITA GUARNA Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Contributing Editors LIZ DONOVAN, TIMOTHY KELLEY, EVERETT POTTER, JOSH SENS Art Assistant YVONNE MARKI editorial intern DANIELLE GALLO

PUBLISHING STAFF Publisher SHAE MARCUS

DOUG DUCKWORTH n Black cashmere short jacket by

Maurizio Baldassari n Merino wool quarter-zip sweater with

suede trim by Fedeli n Checked flannel sport shirt by Xacus n Multicolor striped socks by Marcoliani n Bison leather monk strap shoe by Gravati

Associate Publisher AMY B. WEISS National Brand Manager MONICA DELLI SANTI Director of Production and Circulation CHRISTINE HAMEL Advertising Services Manager JACQUELYNN FISCHER Senior Art Director, Agency Services KIJOO KIM Production/Art Assistant ALANNA GIANNANTONIO Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK PUBLISHED BY Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN

NELSON HUFF III n Leather jacket by Robert Comstock n Crewneck sweater by

Maurizio Baldassari n Shirt by Finamore n Jeans by S.M.N. Denim n Loafer by Di Bianco

President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, CHRISTINE HAMEL

POCKETS Magazine is published by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Pockets Menswear.

Copyright © 2016 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, Pockets, 110 Summit Avenue,

| POCKETS MENSWEAR

Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730;

ROSS UHL

email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com.

n Plaid cashmere sportcoat by

or loss of unsolicited submissions.

Hickey Freeman n Purple quarter-zip merino wool sweater with grey trim by Tasca n Shirt by Eton n Tie by Massimo Bizzocchi n Pocket square by Edward Armah

The magazine is not responsible for the return

Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Pockets, Circulation Department, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com.

Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

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No matter the destination, prepared is always a proper look.

A W 16 . E X P L O R E I N S T Y L E .

SWEDISH PREMIUM SHIRTS. FOR EVERY SITUATION.

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the

pockets guide Seal it up!

Bespoke bags Moore & Giles recently announced the addition of The Bespoke Program to its comprehensive collection of leather travel bags, portfolios and briefcases. From a select palette of French calfskin and Italian vegetabletanned bull hides, you have the opportunity to put your personal stamp on a number of their most classic items.

Individually made in New York, these limited-edition pieces can be made to your exact material specifications.

Pockets is one of a limited number of retailers offering this innovative collection of Moore & Giles Bespoke Program leather goods. Pop in today to see these and the rest of our Moore & Giles products.

Founded in 1935, the Sealup brand of outerwear has been synonymous with quality and passion for luxury garments since its inception. Sealup is 100 percent Italian, from design to production, and is now recognized as one of the most highly innovative rainwear and outerwear collections on the planet. With its patented process, thermoadhesivate, Sealup has created a windproof and rainproof garment that is as functional as it is beautiful. Shown here is Sealup’s 100 percent wool, dense twill Long Peacoat, a water-repellent overcoat that will keep you warm and dry for years to come.

Mull Over This

fall/winter 2016

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One way to celebrate the changing season is with a cup of warmed spiced wine. Sure, you can buy pre-packaged mulling spices anywhere, but it’s just as easy (and, we think, a lot tastier) to make it at home.

First, pick up a bottle of fruity wine. You’ll also need: apple cider (4 cups per bottle of wine), 4 whole cloves, 3 star anise, 1 cinnamon stick, 1/4 cup honey and an orange or lemon.

Other optional additions include 1 bay leaf, 1 tablespoon grated nutmeg, 1 tablespoon cardamom and a bit of Cointreau or spiced rum.

In a large saucepan, combine the wine, cider, honey, spices (whatever assortment you choose) and a squeeze of the citrus, first reserving several slices of the fruit for serving.

Allow it to simmer, but not boil, for about a half hour. Toward the end of the half hour, add a few splashes of the liquor if you choose to use it.

Strain the wine and serve with a slice of orange or lemon.

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THE POCKETS GUIDE THE A–Z LIST

SURVIVE A LONG FLIGHT

Flying from New York to Boston? No sweat.

But sitting in a cramped airline seat for hours on end as you hurtle across the globe?

That’s a journey you might lose sleep over.

Make surviving a long flight the least of your travel concerns with these tips: n Book the right seat. Size matters—as in your height and bladder. A window seat will give you incredible views and a place to rest your head, but you’ll have to climb over others each time nature calls. Score a bit more legroom and an easier path to the restroom with an aisle seat, but that too comes at a cost. Expect sleep interruptions from passengers in your row and those roaming the aisle. n Dress for comfort. Sure, you want to look polished, but park your tailored trousers and choose something with a more relaxed fit.

Because feet tend to swell, wear slip-ons or shoes with loose laces and material that easily expands. Stash extra socks or a light jacket in your carry-on in case the temperature takes a tumble. n Bring your own entertainment. If the in-flight flick is a bust, pass the time with a novel or your mobile devices. Make sure smartphones and tablets are fully charged, as decent Wi-Fi and power outlets aren’t standard on all planes. But remember to pull away from the electronics to hydrate. And be sure to stand up and stretch; you want to keep your blood flowing. n Pack essentials. We recommend a neck pillow, headphones, lip balm, toothbrush, snacks and gum. And moisturizer will help you avoid feeling like a reptile.

At Pockets you’ll find more than three dozen designer brands under one roof! See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below.

Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love.

ASK MR. ETIQUETTE

Andy Weil explains how to sail through life without giving offense.

A lot of invitations these days say “cocktail attire.” What the heck does that mean?

—Perplexed in Preston Hollow Your host is saying, “Get out of the business suit, lighten up and let’s have some fun.” That could mean no tie. It’s your option. A sportcoat, however, is a must— paired with an exciting shirt and a great pocket square. Depending on the occasion, the party location and what your spouse is wearing, jeans can be appropriate. Trousers will certainly give you a dressier look. Naturally, accessories are key—shoes should be less serious, the belt should work with the shoes. Last but not least, make a splash with your socks. Colorful socks show a little more sartorial character when you’re kicking back with a cocktail.

3X1 ALESSANDRO GHERADI ANDERSON’S BELTS ANDREA VENTURA BELVEST BOGLIOLI BRULI CANALI CASTANGIA CITIZENS OF HUMANITY CULTURATA DELTA GIANA DI BIANCO DOLCEPUNTA EDWARD ARMAH ELEVENTY ETON FEDELI FINAMORE FIORONI FLY 3 FRANK & EILEEN FRATELLI ROSSETTI GABO GALLOTTI GARDEUR GIANNETTO PORTOFINO GIMO’S GRAN SASSO GRAVATI HAMILTON HICKEY FREEMAN HILTL INCOTEX INIS MEÁIN J BRAND JACOB COHEN LARDINI LUCIANO BARBERA MARCO PESCAROLO MARCOLIANI MASON’S MASSIMO ALBA MASSIMO BIZZOCCHI MAURIZIO BALDASSARI MAZZARELLI MOORE & GILES MORESCHI NICKY

ORCIANI OXXFORD PAOLO VITALE PETER MILLAR COLLECTION PT01/PT05 RALEIGH DENIM ROBERT COMSTOCK RODA SALT OPTICS SAMUELSOHN SIMONNOT GODARD SMN STUDIO TACCALITI TO BOOT NEW YORK W. KLEINBERG WATERVILLE XACUS ZANELLA ZANONE

ELEVENTY

| POCKETS MENSWEAR

PERSONAL CONCIERGE SERVICES? YES, PLEASE!

Feel like there are simply not enough hours in the day? A Step Ahead Concierge can help. They provide assistance for the busy individual and the corporate client so they can reclaim life’s most important commodity—time!

Services include (but are not limited to) daily, weekly or monthly tasks, personal errands, home management, event planning, gift shopping and holiday preparation. The goal is to make life easier and allow you to enjoy more free time doing what you love to do most. Who can argue with that?

A STEP AHEAD CONCIERGE, 214.686.5122; ALI@ASTEPAHEADCONCIERGE.COM

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HAND-CRAFTED IN NEW YORK

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the techie

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THE NEED FOR SPEED You’re free to celebrate when you get your hands on the trophy-like LaCie Chromé external hard drive. The polished aluminum case gives this computer device a sleek appearance, but rest assured that the design is matched, if not surpassed, by performance. It’s believed to be the fastest portable 1TB hard drive in the world—with transfer speeds of 940 MB per second. $1,499.

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Throw and go!

Be the star of your own show with the Lily Camera, the self-flying drone designed to follow you wherever you go. Carry the tracking device and toss the drone in the air—it’ll shadow you and capture your every move on video at 1080p at 60 frames per second. It’s the perfect partner to take on long runs, bike rides and ski trips. $899.

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Gadgets & Gear

Speakers for the Senses Could the Bang & Olufsen Beolab 90 speaker system be so visually stunning that looks would overshadow its rich sound? Close, but no cigar. The smartphone-controlled, 8,200-watt speakers have 18 drivers facing in all directions and boast an active noise cancellation system to cast away unwanted noise reflections and optimize audio quality. $80,000 a pair.

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Feel its presence Still using a motion detector that goes off when leaves blow by or a cat comes too close to your house? It’s time to install the Netatmo Presence security camera and floodlight, expected to be released later this year. This smartcam doesn’t cry wolf—its tech can distinguish between people, animals and cars, and it goes off when you want. Simply use the accompanying smartphone app to let it know when to shine and who or what is welcome on your property. Price unavailable at press time.

Something shiny to store data?

A smart sleep mask? You didn’t know you wanted one...until now!

| Pockets menswear

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GIve it a rest A good night’s sleep is worth a million bucks. Thankfully, the Neuroon Sleep Mask will help you rest for just a fraction of that price. Sync it to your smartphone to receive a report that measures the quality of your sleep along with advice on how to improve your sleep. Frequent flyer? You can set up your mask to help you beat jet lag before you arrive at your destination. $299.

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a bright idea If you thought the iconic Flos Taccia table lamp was a tad big for your space, you’re in luck—it now comes in a smaller size. This piece maintains its timeless 50-plus-year design (complete with a white aluminum reflector and clear glass diffuser), but is reduced in size by 4 inches. $995.

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ESSENTIALS

HOT STUFF

Update your wardrobe and stock up on these fashion must-haves for the season.

| POCKETS MENSWEAR

Clockwise from bottom left: brown suede vest and blue plaid vest, both by Eleventy; brown tweed vest

by Maurizio Baldassari; quarter-zip and V-neck sweaters by Tasca and Della Ciana Cashmere; textured bison boot by Gravati, green suede boot by Andrea Ventura, dark brown boot by Fratelli Rossetti, black suede boot by To Boot New York; silk pocket squares by Eton; colored jeans by PT05.

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ESSENTIALS

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Clockwise from top left: belts by Orciani and Anderson’s; scarves by Paolo Albizzati; jeans by S.M.N. Denim, Marco Pescarolo and J Brand; blue suede shoe and brown leather oxford, both by Fratelli Rossetti; brown double monk strap shoe by Gravati, brown leather shoe by Di Bianco, black suede loafer by To Boot New York; blue printed and woven denim shirts by Xacus, Giannetto Portofino, Taccaliti and Maurizio Baldassari; slacks by Incotex and PT01.

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ESSENTIALS

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Clockwise from top left: brown suede sneaker by Fratelli Rossetti; maroon sneaker by To Boot New York; shirts by Emanuel Berg, Finamore, Luciano Barbera and Bruli; corduroy jeans by Atelier Gardeur and Incotex; sunglasses by Salt; printed pocket squares

by Eton and Edward Armah; ties by Nicky.

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Celebrating 100 sartorial years.

Handmade in Chicago since 1916.

W W W. OX X F O R D C LOT H E S . C O M

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BEING BESPOKE

If The Suit Fits

Want to take your wardrobe to the next level? Try Made-to-Measure on for size.

Sure, you look sensational in the suits you’ve purchased at Pockets Menswear. We carry the finest labels in the world and our tailors are the best in the business. But there may come a time when you want to treat yourself to a one-of-a-kind suit made just for you. That’s when we’ll introduce you to the world of Made-to-Measure.

LAPEL STYLE

FABRIC SELECTION

PERSONAL DETAILS

TROUSER CHOICES

Evening fundraiser? Wedding? Office? Wherever you’re going, there’s a lapel for that. The classic day-to-day look of a notch lapel is perfect for single-breasted suits and sportcoats. Often found on double-breasted suits, peak lapels can be identified by their edges, which point upward toward the shoulders, and are equally suited if you’re headed to work or a blacktie affair. The rounded-edge shawl lapel is commonly found on dinner and tuxedo jackets and worn at formal settings such as weddings, galas and black-tie events.

| POCKETS MENSWEAR

OVERALL FIT

There’s a reason an off-the-rack suit may not feel right when you try it on—it’s not made specifically for you. A Made-to-Measure suit, however, is constructed according to your body measurements. How should it fit? Jackets should have smooth lines that follow the contours of your body with sleeves ending at the wrist bone. The top button of a two-button suit, or the middle button of a three, should hit at the navel and never below. If a buttoned jacket creates X-shaped rippling, it’s too tight. There’s a lot to consider when finding the right garment, but not to worry—just allow our tailors to take your measurements, and we’ll handle the rest.

There’s an endless number of ways to give your suit a personal touch. Experiment with a variety of cuffs, stitching, lining and vents to satisfy your tastes and add style. Buttons are small but can play a large role in your suit’s overall appearance—change the type and color of your buttons from basic to an exotic material like horn or bone to enhance your look.

Choose materials and patterns that suit you (and the season) best. If cold temperatures are in your future, garments made of wool and cashmere will keep you warm. Opt for more breathable fabrics like cotton and linen if you’ll be off on a Caribbean holiday or heading to another warm-weather destination. And don’t forget to show your personality—colors and patterns, plaids and pinstripes will make your suit pop.

A lot of detail goes into the suit jacket, but don’t forget your lower half! You have plenty of trouser options from which to choose—pleats or flat-front, with or without belt loops. But what shouldn’t change is the fit: Trousers should sit at the top of your hipbones, slim downward and then taper below the knee. Your seat and thighs should be hugged comfortably by fabric and show no wrinkles or divots. The bottom hem should graze the top of your shoes, showing about 1 to 1½ inches of ankle (or sock).

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WELL DRESSED SPACE

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the leading man

Cool Cockney In his screen demeanor and the way he wears a suit, British actor Michael Caine is the epitome of smooth. By Timothy Kelley

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File in 1965 and womanizing Cockney chauffeur Alfie in ’66. In 1969’s The Italian Job, a garage door memorably slides open to reveal superthief Caine in a dove grey, three-button sharkskin suit. And in Get Carter (1971) the title-role gangster sports a single-breasted, two-button, three-piece suit of blue Dormeuil tonik mohair.

Fittingly, for years Caine’s personal tailor was the late Doug Hayward (reputedly the model for Alfie’s character), a fellow workingclasser whose unacceptable accent had kept him off Savile Row. Hayward won renown in the Carnaby Street era, shocking the Establishment with the notion that machine-sewn buttonholes might be cricket after all, and he married classic English suit design with an Italian touch.

Of course, no mere clotheshorse wins Oscar nominations in each of the five decades starting in the ’60s (a distinction Caine shares only with Jack Nicholson), or holds one’s own (as he did in 1972’s Sleuth) with Olivier. But for half a century we’ve watched what this cool customer wore. And he’s worn very well indeed.

Clockwise from top left: Film icon Michael Caine portrays the title character in 2009’s action-thriller Harry Brown.

The Oscar winner strolls with a hand in the pocket of his suit. Looking dapper as a magician in Now You See Me. A Rolex on his wrist, Caine wraps an arm around co-star Giovanna Ralli on the Spanish set of 1968’s Deadfall.

fall/winter 2016

oody Allen’s no fool. When in 1986’s Hannah and Her Sisters he cast British actor Michael Caine as a lovestruck middle-aged neurotic stumbling into an affair, he was having a bit of fun. Fact is, moviegoers know Sir Michael isn’t the stumbling type (though the role won him an Oscar). He’s a striding definition of suave.

Caine “has been personifying British cool since the Swinging Sixties,” says CNN. Indeed, queen and country boast no classier screen hero. But Caine’s class isn’t upper—despite his knighthood, conferred in 2000. He was born Maurice Micklewhite in 1933 a few blocks from the Thames, and his accent remains less Oxbridge than London Bridge.

“When I became a success I sort of shoved it down their throat and continued to talk the way I did,” he’s explained. “I wanted to say to young people, ‘You can do it; it doesn’t matter how you speak.’ ” But it does matter how you look. Caine has put his six-foot frame and handsome, heavylidded puss to splendid sartorial use ever since he portrayed a crook-turned-spy in The Ipcress

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DEFINING YOUR LUXURY LIFESTYLE ENVIRONMENT

TRADITION OF EXCELLENCE IN INTERIOR DESIGN & CONSTRUCTION Glen Boudreaux, RID, ASID, IDS with his design team, provides a rare blend of design, style, quality and comfort capturing your lifestyle and personality. We bring you the best of Interior Design, Planning, Architectural Details and Quality Furnishings. With over 37 years in the interior design and construction industry, we bring, a distinctive approach to casual elegance, integration of technology, green design and attention to subtle details, which has made us a sought after design firm for those who expect a vision of excellence. We take you from initial concept, planning and construction through installation of furnishings, accessories and art. We provide an exceptional design and construction experience creating the luxury lifestyle environment you deserve. Please contact us to help you envision and create your next new home, interior design or remodel project.

B OUD R E aUX a S S O cI aTE S Glen Boudreaux, RID, ASID, IDS

Contact us for a consultation and subscribe to our newsletter boudreauxassociates.com 214.752.0997 BORDEAUX RIGHT.indd 1

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road warrior

The new Mercedes-AMG GT S has serious rock star presence that transcends its elegant design. It was literally handcrafted by racers to own the road.

If you’ve a need for speed, this svelte sports coupe effortlessly scoots its way to a top speed of 192 mph. Comfortably. But more than that, it’s fully equipped with racinginspired controls, and designed to perform exactly as a supercar should.

The AMG GT S boasts a 503-horsepower, 4.0-liter biturbo V8 engine and a seven-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission. Its massive torque reaches its 479 lb-ft peak at just 1,750 rpm and holds it all the way to 4,750 rpm, letting you go from zero to 60 in a scorching 3.7 seconds.

“Dial in” the car’s performance character with the twist of a knob on the console. Choose from four preset modes—comfort, sport, sport+ and race—plus an individual mode that you can configure yourself.

LED headlamps with stylized “eyebrows” as daytime running lamps, side lights and indicators—as well as three separate high-beam reflectors—give the GT S its distinctive look.

Some 260 grill pins, capped in chrome and individually sized and spaced by the car’s designer, add an air of elegance to the exterior.

| pockets menswear

The weight distribution of 47 to 53 percent between the front and rear axle, coupled with the car’s low center of gravity, translates to extremely agile handling and high cornering speeds.

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The body of the GT S is almost entirely composed of aluminum (more than 97 percent), and its spaceframe weighs just 514 pounds—a class benchmark. Among the non-aluminum components: a radiator support made of lightweight magnesium.

Inside, drivers will find deeply contoured leather seats, a 10-speaker Burmester surround sound system and a pair of high-resolution screens displaying entertainment, navigation, audio and other features.

Standard are high-performance tires staggered in both width and diameter (19 inches in the front, 20 in the rear) for maximum power delivery and super-sharp steering response.

Starting Price:

$131,200

A leather-wrapped, multifunction steering wheel offers easy access to the vehicle functions you use most often. Note the racing-inspired side grips.

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Fully variable exhaust flaps let you vary the engine sound depending on the preset mode you select—comfort, sport, sport+ and race.

fall/winter 2016

The enormous 15.4-inch front discs are grasped by powerful six-piston fixed calipers finished with eyepopping red paint and the AMG logo.

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THE GOO D L I F E SMART SARTORIAL CHOICES WILL MAKE YOU LO O K A N D FEEL YOUR BEST— N O M AT T E R W H AT Y O U ’ R E DOING. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DANIEL SPRINGSTON

| POCKETS MENSWEAR

Grey windowpane sportcoat by Canali, tan sweater by Luciano Barbera, check shirt by Eton, pocket square by Massimo Bizzocchi, brown trousers by PT01, loafers

by To Boot New York.

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From left: black coat

by Eleventy, grey striped suit, white windowpane shirt and blue polka-dot tie, all by Canali, belt by Orciani; navy coat by Samuelsohn, grey suit, white striped shirt and green and purple tie, all by Canali, belt

by Orciani.

FALL/WINTER 2016

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From left: blue sweater by Peter Millar Collection, plaid shirt by Giannetto Portofino, grey corduroy jeans

by Atelier Gardeur, blue suede shoes by To Boot New York; navy jacket and check shirt, both by Luciano Barbera, blue corduroy jeans by Marco Pescarolo, belt

by Anderson’s and maroon sneakers by To Boot New York.

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Sportcoat by Samuelsohn, brown sweater by Fedeli, blue shirt by Canali, tie by Nicky Milano, pocket square by Massimo Bizzocchi, trousers by Incotex.

FALL/WINTER 2016

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| POCKETS MENSWEAR

Brown knit hooded vest

by Waterville, colorblock sweater and denim shirt, both by Eleventy, pants by J Brand.

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Plaid sportcoat by Hickey Freeman, light blue sweater by Tasca, pink shirt by Eton, pocket square by Edward Armah, blue trousers by PT01, brown bison boots by Gravati.

FALL/WINTER 2016

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From left: grey sportcoat by Eleventy, blue and purple plaid shirt by Finamore, pocket square by Edward Armah, jeans by Citizens of Humanity, belt by Anderson’s, shoes by Fratelli Rossetti; blue vest by Luciano Barbera, blue and brown plaid shirt by Maurizio Baldassari, jeans by J Brand, belt by Orciani, green suede boots by Andrea Ventura.

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Tan sportcoat

by Lardini, shirt

by Eton, pocket square by Massimo Bizzocchi, grey jeans by PT05, boots by Fratello Rossetti.

FALL/WINTER 2016

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the sporting life

the slopes of spain

It’s not the country you think of first for skiing, but Baqueira-Beret in the Pyrenees will make you think again. By Everett Potter

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M

ention Baqueira-Beret to most American skiers and you’ll get a blank stare. Tell them this resort is located in the Spanish Pyrenees and that won’t help much, since few Yanks realize that this mountain range along the France–Spain border harbors more than three dozen ski resorts.

Yet Baqueira-Beret is Spain’s largest ski resort, well known to well-heeled residents of Madrid and Barcelona, and none other than King Juan Carlos himself has a ski home here. Talk about your bestkept secrets.

Why ski the Pyrenees? Abundant snow and the opportunity to experience a radically different ski culture are the prime reasons. Where else can you enjoy a ski day with a luxuriously lazy 11 a.m. start, take a 6 p.m. siesta and have dinner at 11, with a nightclub visit around 1 a.m.? (If you dine at 8, you dine only with other Americans.)

I checked into the Hotel Val de Neu, the only five-star luxury hotel in the heart of the BaqueiraBeret resort, next to an upscale shopping center and a short walk to the lifts. The hotel is a bastion of comfortable luxury and high design, minimal in style, with lighting that highlights the local stone and wood used throughout. Black-and-white photographic artwork that pays homage to the resort is judiciously displayed. There are nice touches, like a welcome of hot chocolate and churros, and a pillow menu to ensure a good night’s sleep. Cookies or small cakes awaited me after a day on the slopes.

The hotel is a few minutes’ walk to the slopes and has ski lockers in the gondola building, so there’s no need to lug your gear. At day’s end, my mission was to clock some time at the spa, with its

series of thermal pools of varying degrees of heat.

The skiing here is truly alpine, which is to say above tree line, vast and open with views that go on for miles. The 4,700-acre resort, larger than Breckenridge or Snowmass in Colorado, has three distinct areas. Beret is aimed at families, with beginner and intermediate slopes that are wellgroomed runs. Baqueira has some intermediate runs and a few expert runs. It’s a good place to test your legs in the morning on runs such as Muguet, which stretches far out into a bowl, and Solei, where long straight cruisers took the edge off my jet lag.

On the third day, I explored Bonaigua, which is an area that beckons experts. It lacks snowmaking, and runs are not always groomed. It is also steeper than the other parts of the resort, and there are challenges that would be familiar to anyone who has skied Jackson Hole with its chutes and couloirs.

But the real appeal for experts in this area is the off-piste skiing, with countless opportunities to dive off the groomed stuff. The most famous of these is called Escornacrabes, which means “where goats tumble.” I looked, but had no ambition to mimic a mountain goat on a fatal fall.

By day four, I was ready for something a little more challenging. So I signed up for a day with Pyrenees Heliski, based in the valley town of Vielha. A day with five runs costs $896, which in the rarefied world of heli-skiing is something of a steal. We ran through our transceiver and safety training—they use the ABS or Avalanche Balloon System here—and were outfitted with backpacks, shovel, probe and avalanche transceiver before we lifted off on a bluebird morning. It was as excit-

ing as previous heli-ski experiences I’ve had at Revelstoke in the Canadian Rockies, with the pilot able to choose from a staggering amount of terrain, in this case some 155 square miles of the Pyrenees, as a snow playground. At each “drop,” as they call them in Europe, we jumped out in a crouched position, clicked into our fat powder skis and followed the guide as he made heroic figure-eights down the meringue-like slopes. Now, five runs might not sound like much until you add up the vertical, since we chalked up roughly 11,400 feet of vertical that day, comparable to any operator in the American West. By day’s end, my thighs were craving those thermal pools back at the Val de Neu. In the evening, tapas is always on the minds of tired skiers. In the town of Vielha, eateries like Basteret Bar-Restaurant let you savor prawns, cheeses, sausages and much more. In Arties, with its charming old streets, there are countless tapas bars, such as Tauèrnes Urtau, which I loved. Move on to a late dinner at Eth Restilhè, where you might find local trout on the menu and typical Catalan desserts such as crema catalana, the local version of crème brûlée. One night, post-tapas, I ended up in the more formal Ticolet in Baqueira, which has been gastronomic ground zero for 40 years, and even had a sighting of a minor royal, according to a local dinner companion.

A week of this and I was an easy convert to the Spanish way of ski life: a late start, enough runs to work up the first of many appetites of the day, and a sleep as deep as I could wish for. Skiing Pyrenees style is one of the most enjoyable ways I can think of to spend a winter week in Europe.

Clockwise from top: At 4,700 acres, Baqueira-Beret is the largest ski area in Spain. Six peaks are served by 33 lifts, with a 3,450-foot vertical drop, which is similar to Vail, Colorado. After a long afternoon of skiing it’s time to hit the thermal pools at the Hotel Val de Neu. The wide valley that Baqueira-Beret inhabits extends for nearly 25 miles, with France at the other end. Beer lovers won’t want to miss Birreria Eth Refugi at the base of the gondola; it features microbrews from more than 70 countries. In the mood for some adventure? Try heli-skiing. Some 155 square miles of the Pyrenees can be your own snow playground. The Hotel Val de Neu enjoys a privileged location—just 50 yards from the ski lift and close to new shopping opportunities in Baqueira.

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the art of

charcuterie

For enthusiasts of this newly resurgent cooking style the meat is cured, but not the addiction. By Liz Donovan

A

| Pockets menswear

t long last, being a carnivore is “in” again. For years, many of us have yielded the high ground to our vegetarian friends, remarking to one another only sotto voce that they’re missing a lot of good eats. But now the ancient European tradition of charcuterie—finely honed techniques for preparing cooked or processed meats such as sausages and patés—is making a big comeback among discerning chefs right here in the U.S.A. With a respect for nature and an abhorrence of waste, they’re making culinary history. So hold your heads high, meat eaters! And meet three top practitioners of this tasty art.

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Chris Consentino Boccalone and Cockscomb, San Francisco

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This celebrity chef says meat is his muse. Popularly known for his TV appearances—for example, on Food Network’s Iron Chef America and as winner of Bravo’s Top Chef Masters—he has made a name as a leader in charcuterie’s resurgence.

As executive chef at Incanto in San Francisco, which closed in 2014, Chris Consentino hosted an annual “head-to-tail” dinner in which he’d make a point of using an entire animal, even serving pork’s blood with chocolate for dessert. This philosophy, he says, was inspired by his friend, French chef Jean-Louis Palladin, who taught him “to be realistic and respectful about the path an animal takes from farm or forest to plate.”

At Incanto, Consentino created a house-cured charcuterie plate that included mortadella and fennel salame. When guests asked where they could purchase Incanto’s meats, Consentino and Incanto owner Mark Pastore opened a salumeria (Italian delicatessen) called Boccalone, also in the City by the Bay, in 2007. (The slogan on its T-shirts: “Tasty Salted Pig Parts.”)

There and at farmers’ markets, customers can purchase Consentino’s meats, including the bestselling mortadella hot dogs and cured salumis, such as capocollo, a neck meat aged with spices; guanciale, a salt-cured pork cheek used in Carbonara dishes; and even orange and wild fennel salame. (Customers enjoy getting a selection in the store’s popular “meat cone” dish.)

Besides Boccalone, Consentino focuses his attention on his newest restaurant venture, Cockscomb, and his blog, OffalGood.com, which highlights his passion for cooking offal, the parts of an animal that are not skeletal muscle. (It literally means “off fall”—the pieces that fall off the animal during butchering.) But don’t expect him to rest on his laurels—this creative chef is constantly reinventing. “The possibility of catching lightning in a bottle, or within a salami casing, is enticing,” he has said. “That’s what will forever thrill us about the art of cured meats.”

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Zach Allen B&B Hospitality, Las Vegas Meat making is part passion and part tradition for Zach Allen. While he was growing up, his Germanheritage family gathered each fall to create a big batch of smoked sausages. His interest in working with cured and smoked meats professionally was piqued on a trip to Italy, where he met prosciutto makers and was inspired to learn charcuterie. At that time, Allen was preparing for the opening of Mario Batali’s Otto in New York City; he was determined to cure all meats—from those served as antipasti to the pepperoni on the pizzas—in-house.

To learn the craft, Allen worked with Armandino Batali, Mario’s father, who runs the famed Salumi in Seattle, and took formal training at Iowa State University’s Meat Lab, where he discovered the chemistry and technology behind meat curing and smoking.

“You need to know the science,” he explains. “Why you need the salt, the sugar, the nitrate and so on— and you need to be careful using them to make sure you’re safe.” Through Allen, Otto became the first New York City restaurant to have a cured meats plan approved by the city’s Health Department for HACCP (hazard analysis and critical control points), a food-safety system pioneered by NASA. Pig parts some chefs would discard engage Allen’s imagination. The loin, which is lean with a little fat but “not marbled like a shoulder,” he says, can be turned into lonza. “We season with salt and a little sugar and let the sweetness of the meat sing,” he says. Meanwhile, he handles the fattier shoulder by rubbing it first with salt and sugar, then rolling it in ground black pepper, fennel and cayenne to make coppa. Ankles, which contain tough meat, need a little extra work to become a succulent full-flavored cotechino. “We’ll season it with a lot of fall spices— black pepper, cinnamon, cayenne and clove—poach it really slowly in Prosecco for two to three hours,” he says. “Add all the skin and fat and it becomes tender.”

As for overall guidance, “it’s important to respect and look at the animal,” Allen says. “Take what the pig gives you and make it from there.”

He oversees 10 restaurants with B&B Hospitality, and has helped Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich open 17 properties in the United States and abroad. He brings in thousands of pounds of pork from Heritage Farms USA, which provides the restaurants with pigs bred and raised exclusively for them. “If you’re going to eat meat, this is the best way,” Allen says. “You’re using the animal to its fullest. You’re not wasting anything.”

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Jamie Bissonnette Coppa, Boston; Toro, New York, Boston and Bangkok; Little Donkey, Cambridge, Mass.

This meat genius actually spent many years as a vegetarian and vegan. Eventually, his culinary ambitions prompted a diet change. Jamie Bissonnette recalls that a one-time boss “said I was a good cook, but I’d never be a great cook unless I started eating the food.”

In 2011, Bissonnette won $10,000 on the Food Network show Chopped; in 2014, he was awarded the James Beard Foundation Award for the Best Chef Northeast and also published The New Charcuterie Cookbook: Exceptional Cured Meats to Make and Serve at Home. Today he owns five restaurants, having added Cambridge’s Little Donkey just this summer.

Writes celebrity chef Andrew Zimmern of Bissonnette: “He can take ordinary food, even odd bits, fifth-quarter stuff (the pluck, the viscera, ‘the nasty’ to some) and make angels weep.”

The rabbit mortadella in the book earned Zimmern’s praise; ambitious home chefs can also find recipes for Bissonnette’s duck prosciutto and Vietnamese bologna, or Cha Lua. For those hoping to get a taste of the chef’s own creations, an array of salumis, patés and sausages is available at Coppa.

Toro, a Barcelona-style eatery that focuses on seafood, finds room on its menu for Bissonnette’s carnivorous creations in tapas dishes, such as smoked beef heart and seared foie gras.

Those vegan days are long ago, but this chef’s respect for animals endures. He began experimenting with offal after seeing parts of the animal go to waste once the popular cuts were butchered off. “When I made the change from vegetarian to omnivore, I wanted as little waste as possible,” he says. He also insists on knowing where his meat comes from and only sourcing ingredients from sustainable providers, advising people not to cook with meat they don’t know anything about. “I only use people I can get to know and speak with about the pigs and how they were raised,” he says.

For would-be charcuterie enthusiasts, Bissonnette has simple advice: “It’s not something you can learn on a stage. It’s something one has to be really dedicated to.

But it’s delicious.”

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grape

sipping sicilian

| Pockets menswear

O

n the map, the island of Sicily looks as if it’s about to be drop-kicked by the Italian boot. Indeed, its abundant wines have long been kicked around—known more for quantity than for quality, with flabby reds, listless whites and assorted sweet wines like Marsala and Moscato di Pantelleria that were good for cooking but not much else.

Till recently, says Brian Larky, owner of wine importer Dalla Terra Winery Direct in Napa, Calif., “when people thought of Sicily, they thought of mafia and Marsala. But it’s so much more.”

In fact, the island is home to more than 70 native grape varietals, with winemaking roots that run millennia deep.

And vintners today are drawing on that tradition, leaning on ancient grapes such as Grillo and Catarratto with a distinctive sense of place.

“Sicily is a place of great diversity, in its climate, its soils and, of course, its grapes,” says Alberto Tasca d’Almerita.

“It’s also full of history and culture you can see and touch and taste.”

After a ho-hum era, vintners on this historic wine-producing island are winning new respect. By Josh Sens

At 44, Tasca d’Almerita is a vintner of noble breeding—a count, no less, who is married to a princess (literally) and belongs to “the first family of Sicilian wine.”

His bloodlines in the industry trace to the 1830s, when forebears planted grapes in the center of the island. With father Lucio and brother Giuseppe, he oversees five of Sicily’s most respected wineries: Tenuta Regaleali, Capofaro, Tascante, Whitaker and Sallier de la Tour.

For the family business, the mid- to late-1900s brought robust growth, during which Lucio emerged as a pioneer, implementing a range of modern farming practices. He was the first Sicilian vintner to use a tractor and to dig a reservoir to catch rainwater. But he also held firm to traditions, championing indigenous varietals that were becoming vanishingly rare. Other wineries followed suit, among them Benanti, Ceuso, COS and Cusumano.

To sample the finest Sicilian wines today is to appreciate their wildly diverse profiles, by turns lean and feisty, lush

and complex. They’re reflective of a Sicily that contains multitudes, its topography ranging from stark volcanic peaks to sun-kissed inland valleys to low-lying flatlands cooled by coastal fog.

With five estates scattered across Sicily, the Tasca d’Almerita family makes wines in all of those settings, and their portfolio captures that wide-ranging terroir. It’s evident in stunning releases like Tenuta Regaleali’s 2014 Lamuri, a fruit-forward wine made from Nero d’Avola grapes grown in a rolling inland region, and Capofaro’s 2013 Didyme Malvasia, a bright white derived from fruit in vineyards stitched along Mt. Etna’s volcanic slopes.

As the managing director of the family business, Alberto is the widely recognized public face of all these labels. He and his wife, Francesca Borghese, show up on glossy Italian society pages. But his family’s wines, he says, are the true stars.

“People are getting more curious about indigenous grape varietals everywhere,” he says. “In that regard, Sicily is the biggest treasure in the world.”

Clockwise from top left: Vintner Arianna Occhipinti’s SP68, her blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato; the vineyard at the Tasca d’Almerita family’s Capofaro Malvasia & Resort on the isle of Salina, north of Sicily; majestic Mt. Etna rises above a Silican town; the dapper Alberto Tasca d’Almerita; the Grillo grape, a variety favored for Marsala winemaking; harvesting the Nero d’Avola grape varietal at the Feudo Montoni estate; a bottle of Tenuta Rapitala Grillo 2013; a lush bunch of Nerello Mascalese grapes, named for the Mascali area of Catania, where it’s believed they have originated.

Tasting notes Tenuta Regaleali Lamuri Nero d’Avola, 2014 Retail price: $20 Lush aromas of black cherry, vanilla and tobacco give way to velvety tannins on the palate in this nuanced, foodfriendly wine.

Tenuta Regaleali Rosso del Conte 2010 Retail price: $70 A rich ruby color is complemented by deep flavors of cherry and stone fruit that resolve in a long, smooth finish.

Tascante Buonora 2014 Retail price: $20 Aged in stainless steel, this wine has hints of grapefruit and understated minerality as well as a lean, clean finish; these qualities help make it a wonderfully refreshing warmweather white.

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Steamy Delights

Soak your weary self in the thermal hot springs at Costa Rica’s Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort. By Liz Donovan

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T

he “law of the land” in Costa Rica is “Pura vida!”—you’re likely to be greeted with the expression shortly after arriving in this cheerful Central American country. It directly translates to “pure life,” and after your stay here, you’ll know why.

Flanked by the Pacific Ocean and Caribbean Sea, Costa Rica makes up for its size (19,653 square miles; smaller than Lake Michigan) with a wealth of biodiversity and ecotourism—it hosts nearly 6 percent of the world’s species and protects 25 percent of its land within national parks and wildlife reserves ranging from tropical dry forests and cloud forests to wetlands and rainforests.

Conveniently situated at the edge of one of these magnificent rainforests, nestled under the grand Arenal volcano, is the Tabacón Grand Spa and Thermal Resort in La Fortuna. This five-star luxury getaway features three natural hot springs, which are 97 percent rain-based and 3 percent magma-based. After a rainfall, the water seeps through fissures down to the Earth’s core, where it’s heated by volcanic magma.

Once heated, the now mineral-rich water resurfaces and is funneled at a temperature of 120°F into the resort’s 20 magnificent pools, complete with waterfalls and flora.

Simply soaking in these luscious

ambient pools is pampering enough, but if you desire, you can turn it up a notch by retreating to a private open-air bungalow surrounded by lush gardens and equipped with a thermal spring tub. There, expert masseuses will rub you from head to toe, wrapping your feet in a warm volcanic mud that will both soften and detoxify. Couples may opt for a romantic side by side full-body massage that ends with a love poem read in Maléku, the native language of Costa Rica, and topped off with a milk bath and a bottle of champagne.

Spending the day idling in a state of blissed-out nirvana can work up one’s appetite; fortunately, a cultural culinary experience beckons at the resort’s multiple restaurants. Start your morning with a colorful spread of local tropical fruits, like fresh papaya, mango and guava, or perhaps sample the traditional Costa Rican dish of sweet plantains at Los Tucanes. Of course, the Costa Rican coffee—strong and dark without a hint of bitterness—is not to be missed. Light bites are available for lunch, and both casual and formal dinner options are offered at Ave de Paraiso and Los Tucanes, respectively.

While enjoying the natural splendors of the Earth here, it may heighten your

experience to know that this resort is proud to be both environmentally and socially responsible. It holds a Sustainable Tourism Certificate, is certified by the government as a carbon-neutral facility and is active in supporting the local community through education and outreach.

When not indulging in the thermal springs, set out to explore the area and its stunning natural attractions. The majestic Arenal volcano rises more than 5,400 feet and at one time was Costa Rica’s most active volcano. But fear not—it’s now in a resting phase, with no major eruptions since 2010.

Craving adventure? Explore the lush rainforest surrounding the volcano with a guided hike and you may be rewarded with a glimpse of one of the thousands of species that call it home—our group spotted a toucan perched on a nearby tree during a recent visit. Other activities include zip-lining, whitewater rafting, bird-watching tours across some of the Arenal area’s “hanging bridges” and a Costa Rican–style safari river float, where you’ll discover wildlife such as monkeys, iguanas, sloths and crocodiles.

Truly, whether you’re tired and weary or seeking an adrenaline rush, you’ll surely discover something here that by the end of your stay will have you exclaiming, “Pura vida!”

Clockwise from top: one of Tabacón’s 20 pools, warmed by natural hot springs; the luxe honeymoon suite, which features a private Jacuzzi; some of the resort’s scenic waterfalls; a massage is one of the offerings at the top-rated spa; a bridge leads past a bungalow and through the lush gardens; the Arenal volcano rises beyond one of the resort’s thermal pools.

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music

lonely together Four of today’s best singer-songwriters draw you into their finely limned realms of heartache and exaltation. By Mark Dowden

Courtney Barnett Australian singer-songwriter and (left-handed) guitarist Courtney Barnett meandered through musical styles before making it on her own: She played second guitar in a garage grunge band in Melbourne; she next played slide, mostly, for a psych-country band, and then graduated to lead guitar on her girlfriend Jen Cloher’s studio album in 2013. That was the year Barnett herself achieved critical notice with her own double EP. Her witty lyrics, deadpan delivery and bitchin’ accent combine in a distinctive, highly likeable act.

The album: Sometimes I Sit and Think, and Sometimes I Just Sit Go-to song: “Dead Fox”

Deeper dives: “Avant Gardener” and “Pickles From the Jar”

Ben bridwell

After launching Band of Horses in Seattle, front man Ben Bridwell returned to his native Charleston, S.C., where he lives with his wife and four daughters. “I feel like the best stuff that connects people to Band of Horses are these songs that have these discordant, quirky elements and weird-ass tunings that make no sense to anybody else,” he has said. Affable and self-effacing (he claims he’s a lousy musician), Bridwell writes catchy, often upbeat tunes, many of which are sublimely tinged by themes of loneliness and alienation.

The album: Why Are You OK Go-to song: “Casual Party” Deeper dives: “The Funeral,” the band’s best-known song, and “The General Specific”

Sturgill Simpson Kentucky native Sturgill Simpson doesn’t fit neatly into the country music mold.

He’s often compared to Waylon Jennings (although in truth he’s more like Merle Haggard), but that comparison misses his strangeness and originality.

IndieWire got it right when it described Simpson’s sound as “a mesmerizing and sometimes bewildering mix of traditional country sounds, contemporary philosophy, and psychedelic recording-studio wizardry.” His first major-label release, out this year, positively soars.

The album: A Sailor’s Guide to Earth Go-to song: “Brace for Impact (Live a Little)” on which he’s helped by The Dap-Kings Deeper dive: His cover of Nirvana’s “In Bloom”

Laura Mvula

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Birmingham, England has turned out many fine musical acts—Electric Light Orchestra, Traffic, The Moody Blues and UB40, to name a few—but have you heard Laura Mvula? You should, and you will. She got her start in an a cappella group, a gospel choir and church choirs. As a substitute teacher, she began writing songs on her laptop. She sent out a few demos, and lightning struck. Her 2013 debut album was followed this summer by a new LP that’s soulful and exultant.

The album: The Dreaming Room Go-to song: “Phenomenal Woman,” funky and danceable Deeper dives: The ethereal “Who I Am” and “Sing to the Moon”

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Would you sign my cast?

What makes a great après-ski soundtrack? Music that soothes mogul-jangled nerves, lubricates conversation and hints at the romantic potential of the evening (even if it exists only in your head).

Whether heard in the hot tub, the lounge of your chalet or a parking lot tailgate situation, these tunes fill the bill.

“Step” by Vampire Weekend “Ghost Writer” by Garland Jeffreys “My Friends” by Red Hot Chili Peppers “Weed Party” by Band of Horses “You’re So Good to Me” by M. Ward “The Wheel” by The Grateful Dead (try Dick’s Picks, Volume 20)

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David Bowie

“Mercy” by Eric Bachmann “Bodies” by Blackheart Honeymoon “Starman” by David Bowie “Blue Soul” by Blue Mitchell “The Bucket” by Kings of Leon “Burn One Down” by Ben Harper

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