Pockets: Fall/Winter 15

fall FASHIONS st. barts getaway bentley’s mulsanne

YOUR SUIT YOUR WAY Find the suit that fits your style, and wear it.

skiing big sky

THE HOLIDAY MUST-HAVES The latest trends to keep you looking hot this winter.

the best chili

UNSTRUCTURED SPORTCOATS Polished looks for casual occasions.

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Table of

Alan Paine hunter green merino wool quarter-button sweater, Xacus purple and brown brushed flannel sport shirt, Tsovet watch

CONTENTS INVITATION TO STYLE We’re ready for fall! PAGE 4

THE POCKETS GUIDE Bespoke bags, a new way with whiskey, Ask Mr. Etiquette, Gardeur gets it right, the look of Milan and more! PAGE 9

LISTEN UP! However you get your music, here are four artists you mustn’t miss. PAGE 14

ESSENTIALS FOR MEN Perfect picks for a quick getaway. Cool colors for cold weather. Little things that make a lasting impression. PAGE 16

LUXURY, MEET POWER Beneath the elegant exterior of Bentley’s Mulsanne beats the heart of a world-class race car. PAGE 22

FALL FASHIONS From suits to sportswear, belts to bags, we’ve got the season’s sartorial staples covered. PAGE 27

BIG SKY’S THE LIMIT Skip the crowds and come to Montana, where America’s largest ski area combines perfect powder with the flavor of the West. PAGE 38

SOME LIKE IT HOT Once a year, a tiny town shows the world how to do chili—alias “Texas Red.” PAGE 42

SIMPLY SCANDINAVIAN That’s incomparable Eton shirts—but they were born in the U.S.A. PAGE 44

A BEAUTY ON THE BEACH Luxury has a Gallic accent at the Cheval Blanc on St. Barts. PAGE 46 Boglioli green windowpane wool and cashmere jacket, Tasca camel merino wool quarter-zip sweater, Eton purple sport shirt, Eton pocket square

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Belvest up-blue wool and silk sportcoat, Eton white, blue and tan plaid dress shirt, Nicky silk tie, wool pocket square

the black tie Formal wear for that special occasion.

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invitation to style

pockets the plaza at preston center 4000 villanova, dallas, tx 75225 214.368.1167 www.pocketsmenswear.com

Store Hours Monday to saturday: 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.

Editorial Director

sneak peeks

Knot it up!

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We’re ready for fall!

utumn officially arrived on September 23, but as you know it takes a month or so for it to feel like fall in Dallas. It’s finally time to slip on that luxurious cashmere sweater, soft tailored corduroys and perforated suede jacket—pieces that make you feel like fall has arrived, and you can actually wear during our relatively mild winters. In this issue of Pockets magazine you’ll find lots of great colors for the fall/winter season; hunter green, chocolate brown and rich burgundy are just a few of our favorites.

We also present some of our favorite pieces that can take your wardrobe to the next level this season, such as reversible sportcoats by Belvest, silk seven-fold ties by Dolcepunta, wool quarter-zip sweaters by Tasca, suede chukka boots by To Boot New York and rugged leather bags by Moore & Giles.

What else will you find in this issue of Pockets magazine?

We acquaint you with a pair of native Texan winemakers, take you on a ski trip to Montana, introduce you to some new music, put you behind the wheel of an elegant sedan with the heart of a race car and much more.

Last, but certainly not least, we would like to take this opportunity to thank our hardworking sales associates, our talented tailors, our outstanding vendors and, of course, our loyal customers for all their support. Pockets wouldn’t be possible without all of you. We hope you enjoy reading our magazine as much as we’ve enjoyed putting it together.

See you soon!

—Andy, Doug and Nelson

Editor

A n dy W e i l

Mark Dowden

Art Director

st e p h e n M. v i ta r b o

Executive Editor

r i ta g ua r n a

Managing Editor

c a r o l b i a l ko ws k i

Senior Editor

T i m ot h y K e l l e y

Editorial Assistant Jac k ly n Ko u e fat i Contributing Editors M i c h a e l H i l l e r, E vere t t Pot ter, Luca Sumberac

Publishing Staff Publisher Shae Marcus

National Brand Manager Monica delli s anti

Advertising Account Executive Da n a La r k i n

Director of Production and Circulation C h r i st i n e Ham e l

Advertising Services Manager jac q u e ly n n f i s c h e r

Senior Art Director, Agency Services Kijoo Kim

Production/Art Assistant A l a n n a g i a n n a n to n i o

Accounting ag n e s a lv e s, m e g a n f r a n k

Published by Chairman

Ca r r o l l V. D o w d e n

President

Mark Dowden

Senior Vice Presidents s h a e ma r c u s, c a r l o l s e n

Vice Presidents R i ta G ua r n a , c h r i st i n e h am e l

P o c k e t s Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Pockets Menswear.

Copyright © 2015 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

E d i to r i a l C o n t r i b u ti o n s : Write to Editor, Pockets, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com.

The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions.

S u b s c r i pti o n S e r vi c e s : To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Pockets, Circulation Department, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com.

A dve r ti s i n g I n q u i r i e s : Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

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Pockets guide the

The look of Milan

The albums that weren’t What’s your fave Beatles record—Rubber Soul?

Sergeant Pepper? Primal Colors? That’s a trick question, of course; while the first two titles made rock history, the third died aborning one day at George Harrison’s house in ’68.

That’s one of the insider tidbits you’ll pick up in the book, The Greatest Albums You’ll Never Hear: Unreleased Recordings By the World’s Greatest Artists, edited by Bruno MacDonald (Cassell, $24.99). From the Beach Boys’ reputedly brilliant Smile in 1967 to U2’s unreleased Songs of Ascent in 2010, this is an irresistible account of the music that would be part of the sound track of your life if only it, you know, existed.

The book is colorfully illustrated with might-have-been album covers. And in the prevailing “what-you-see-ain’t-what-you-get” spirit, the editor confesses right off that the title’s a friendly semi-fib. Such is the mania of music mavens for digging up old half-finished stuff, he explains, that “some of these you will hear if you have no objection to bootlegging.”

You can’t count to Eleventy, but it’s a brand you can count on. Born in the fashion and design epicenter, Milan, Italy, in 2006 as a small line of polo shirts, it has expanded and gained international prominence with collections of meticulously crafted, easy-to-wear apparel—from quilted suede vests to lasercut wool jackets. Eleventy has been likened to Brunello Cucinelli—but with prices that will leave you extra cash to gas up your Italian sports car. So the next time you’re out shopping on Milan’s Via della Spiga—or at Pockets right here in Dallas—give Eleventy a whirl.

Bespoke bags With its deep roots in leather goods, Moore & Giles makes bags that will last. In fact, the company wants you to use them for travel, for work and for play. By using only full-grain and top-grain hides, M&G strives to create not just a bag, but a masterpiece.

Choose from a folding dopp kit, a small attaché case, a messenger bag, a weekend bag—there’s something for everyone. With details such as an adjustable and removable padded leather shoulder strap, plenty of pockets for smaller items and a finely constructed luggage tag, the Benedict Weekend Bag is one of our favorites.

If you don’t agree, create your own bag! Moore & Giles recently launched a custom program that allows you to put your personal stamp on a number of their most popular items. Individually made in New York, these limited-edition pieces can be made to your exact specifications.

Pockets is one of a limited number of retailers offering this innovative collection of leather goods. Pop in today to see these and the rest of our Moore & Giles merchandise.

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From SoHo to Dallas

In New York City’s SoHo neighborhood, a team of 24 talented workers meticulously sews jeans together by hand, taking 12 to 13 hours to create just one pair from start to finish. That’s how it’s done at 3x1, the premium denim brand founded just a few years ago by Scott Morrison, who also was the brains behind Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn. (The name 3x1, by the way, refers to how jeans are woven.)

“It’s not about efficiency, it’s not about speed, it’s not about pace. It’s about quality,” Morrison has said.

“There’s a lot more attention to detail, pride and sense of accomplishment.”

The company offers nearly 60 styles that blend trademark denim ruggedness with New York edginess. And it has a loyal worldwide following that includes NBA all-stars LeBron James and Tony Parker. Stop by Pockets and let us help you find the perfect 3x1 fit.

With the brand’s bespoke option, you have the ability to select the fabric, fit and details to create a jean that you can truly call your own.

A new way with whiskey

If you’re still drinking your whiskey “straight,” it’s time to mix it up. Literally. The world’s most masculine beverage has made its way onto mixed-drinks menus across the country. “Whiskey’s pleasures are diverse and delicious,” notes Warren Bobrow, author of Whiskey Cocktails. “And much to the surprise of traditionalists, it’s a versatile spirit that’s extremely adaptable when it comes to mixology.”

Here, we present Bobrow’s Robert Burns Cocktail, a tipple that honors Scotland’s most famous poet. Every sip is pure elegance, whether it’s served straight up or in a martini glass with a flamed orange zest twist. That said, if you’re a “wee tim’rous beastie,” as Burns himself wrote, steer clear: This cocktail is not for the faint of heart. If you can handle it, though, it’s a truly luxurious way to start an autumn evening.

The Robert Burns Cocktail n 2 oz. Scotch whisky n ¾ oz. Italian vermouth, such as Carpano Antica n Dash of orange bitters n Dash of absinthe n Orange zest twist (optional) Fill a cocktail shaker three-quarters with ice. Pour all the liquid ingredients over the ice. Stir gently to combine. Strain this into a martini glass.

Singe the orange zest by holding it firmly behind a lit match and pinching it to release its natural citrus oils. (Be careful to spritz the citrus oils into the glass.)

Gardeur gets it right

There’s a reason this German trouser specialist (in business since 1920) has won the hearts and legs of our customers: Their jeans fit perfectly—and not just after extensive alterations, but from the moment you put them on. Unlike many brands, which manufacture jeans in eight or 10 sizes, Gardeur offers more than 30 sizes. Each of those sizes takes into consideration a guy’s height, waist, hips and inseam. Because, after all, two men with the same size waist don’t necessarily have the same build. Another plus: The fabric has just the right amount of stretch to ensure that you look just as good at 8 p.m. as you did at 8 a.m. Stop by the store and slip on a pair.

Ask Mr. Etiquette andy weil explains how to sail through life without giving offense.

Source: The American Cleaning Institute

I received an invitation that says “black tie optional.” What should I wear? I don’t want to be the only dork wearing a tuxedo.

—Desperate in Dallas First of all, I’ll ask you to refrain from using the words “dork” and “tuxedo” in the same sentence. A tuxedo is the height of manly elegance, and just as James Bond never looked like a dork while wearing one, neither will you. Now, to answer your question, you should wear black tie. “Black tie optional” means “black tie suggested.” It also means your host will be wearing black tie, and it’s the mark of a guest with savoir faire to follow his host’s lead.

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Pockets guide the

Invest in Belvest

Quality, excellence, creativity and tailoring skills—these are the trademarks of Belvest.

Founded in 1964, in the town of Piazzola sul Brenta in Northern Italy, Belvest has been an industry leader in handcrafted clothing. The designers at Belvest, while respecting the fundamental techniques of tailoring based on decades of experience, are constantly researching new materials and creating beautiful styles in the freshest colors.

Check out the Belvest collection at Pockets. Perhaps a charcoal pinstripe suit in luxurious wool or a high blue marbled houndstooth sportcoat in a wool-silk blend. We’ll help you find the perfect pieces to elevate your fall/ winter wardrobe.

The A-Z List At Pockets you’ll find more than three dozen designer brands under one roof! See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love.

Get to know Roda

Long known for its luxe ties, pocket squares and scarves, Roda also creates fine sportswear.

Featuring washed cotton shirts and woven jacquards, these aren’t your average casual shirts.

The founder, Luca Roda, strives to transform everyday accessories and clothing into something fanciful and carefree. And he succeeds.

In his own words, “The Roda man is Italian in spirit, sometimes irreverent with colors, and finds inspiration in the taste of the English gentleman. He lets his style express itself through the nonchalance of a printed silk scarf with a carefully tied knot, through the vibrant tones of a handkerchief, through the traditional handmade embroidery on a cashmere scarf and through the play of fabrics in a casual sport shirt.”

3x1 Agave Denim Alessandro Gherardi Andrea Ventura Belvest Boglioli Bruli C.P. Company Canali Citizens of Humanity Culturata Eidos Eleventy Eton Falke Fedeli Finamore Frank & Eileen Fratelli Rossetti Gardeur Gi Capri Giannetto Portofino Gimo’s Gran Sasso

Gravati Hamilton Hickey Freeman Hiltl Incotex Inis Meáin J Brand Kokum Lanificio Luigi Colombo Left Coast Tee Luciano Barbera Luigi Bianchi Marcoliani Martin Dingman

Countrywear Mason’s Massimo Alba Maurizio Baldassari MMX Moore & Giles New England Shirt

Company Nicky Orciani

Oxxford Clothes Paul & Shark PT01 Relwen Roda Salt Samuelsohn Sand Sartoria Partenopea Simonnot-Godard Tintoria Mattei To Boot New York Trussini Valentini Velvet W. Kleinberg Zanella

fratelli rossetti

Taste the terroir

Talk about your great combos: California climate and Texas ambition!

Winemaking brothers Mark and Ben McWilliams hailed from the Lone Star State but fell in love with the vineyards of California’s Russian River Valley, whose terroir (that mix of soil, topography and climate that gives each vineyard’s wine its distinctive, subtle flavor) is world-renowned. So in 2002 they created Arista Winery, a boutique producer of pinot noir and chardonnay—wines that whisper subtly of Arista’s estate vineyards just outside the charming country town of Healdsburg. Next time you fill a wine glass, let your taste buds tell you if these native Texans have succeeded. We think the answer’s a resounding yes, and we know they take care to use sustainable practices to farm their 36-acre estate, with the dual goals of a pristine environment and wines of depth and elegance.

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OCCHIALIMODERNOPTICS.COM

8304 Preston Center Plaza , Dallas, TX 75225 Located in the The Plaza at Preston Center

214.368.2777 M-F 10AM-6PM • SAT 10AM-5PM • SUN CLOSED

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music

Listen Up!

Rhiannon Giddens

That’s not a typo. Australian native Nicky Murphy calls himself Chet Faker as an homage to the jazz trumpeter and vocalist Chet Baker.

An electronic musician, Faker uses multi-track layering and echoes of early house music to produce an infectious yet mellow sound.

His vocals have an emotive, slightly spaced-out quality that can put audiences in a happy trance. This is danceable party music.

It’s also baby-making music. Play it with caution.

The co-founder and leader of the Carolina Chocolate Drops says her calling is to breathe new life into old songs. Rhiannon Giddens does it remarkably well—with the Chocolate Drops; as a member of the New Basement Tapes, the T-Bone Burnett project that set rediscovered Bob Dylan lyrics to music; and on her first solo album, released this year. While she switches with ease between banjo and fiddle, Giddens’ main instrument is her glorious voice. She performs songs by Nina Simone, Dolly Parton and obscure folk singers and blueswomen of the early 20th century, as well as tunes of her own. Trained in opera, Giddens can deliver a song in any style with utter conviction.

The album: Built on Glass

Deeper dives: “Melt” and

The album:

“1998,” two songs from Built on Glass that will take up residence in your head

Go-to song: “Shake Sugaree,” a cover of an

Whether you prefer to stream on Spotify or still feel compelled to “own it” via iTunes, this new music is essential listening. By Mark Dowden Chet Faker

Go-to song: “No Diggity,” his 2011 cover of a Blackstreet song from the ’90s

Tomorrow Is My Turn

old Elizabeth Cotton tune Deeper dives: “Cornbread and Butterbeans” with the Carolina Chocolate Drops and “Forever Young” as a duet with Iron & Wine

Marti Jones

A musical chameleon, Marti Jones has written and recorded in various styles, from jangle pop to Southern-style soul, since the mid-80s. She took time off to raise a daughter with her husband, the producer Don Dixon, and in recent years she has focused more on painting than performing. But last year saw the release of a new album consisting entirely of original bossa nova tunes. They prove to be the perfect vehicles for Jones’ light, clear voice, as refreshing as a caipirinha on the beach.

The album:

You’re Not the Bossa Me Go-to song:

“You Solve Me”

Deeper dives: “Black Coffee in Bed,” Jones’ cover of the Squeeze classic; “I Love the Sound of Breaking Glass”

Leon Bridges

Leon Bridges was working as a dishwasher, writing songs and singing at open-mic nights around Fort Worth, when he released two demo songs on Soundcloud in late 2014; Columbia Records signed him in December, and he soon found himself touring with Sharon Van Etten. Bridges’ sound has been said to resemble the ’60s soul and gospel stylings of Otis Redding and Sam Cooke.

Certainly he sings from the heart, and you’re likely to find yourself singing along.

The album: Coming Home Go-to song: “Coming Home”

Deeper dives: “Lisa Sawyer” and “Brown Skin Girl”

Rediscovered with pleasure Each of these dozen songs is a classic in its genre and of its day. This is a fairly chill mix, punctuated by some rawness (courtesy of Heartless Bastards) and energetic high points (The Stones! The Kinks!). Try this playlist during cocktail hour or on a country drive.

“This Tornado Loves You” by Neko Case “Shine” by Daniel Lanois “Any Major Dude Will Tell You” by Steely Dan “I Wish I Knew How It Would Feel” by Studio Rio and Nina Simone 14

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“Sway” by Heartless Bastards “My Buddy” by Chet Baker “Out of Time” by The Rolling Stones “Lover, You Should’ve Come Over”

by Jeff Buckley

“Do You Realize?” by The Flaming Lips “Pueblo Nuevo” by Buena Vista Social Club “Feels Like Rain” by John Hiatt “Victoria” by The Kinks

Nina Simone

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Going

SOMEWHERE? Perfect picks for a QU ICK getaway

Clockwise from the top: To Boot New York Dyson suede chukka boot, Belvest grey and tan houndstooth wool reversible sportcoat, Alessandro Gherardi washed denim sport shirt, G. Inglese tie, Gardeur chocolate brown five-pocket

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jeans, Martin Dingman Bill driving loafer, cashmere ties, Martin Dingman alligator wallet, Eleventy washed grey checked sport shirt, 3x1 denim jeans, Simonnot-Godard crocodile belt

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LOOKING Cool C o o l c o lo r s fo r co l d weather Clockwise from the top: Hamilton washed grey checked sport shirt, To Boot New York Amos sneakers, Canali Kei green cashmere sportcoat, Simonnot-Godard pocket square, Canali tie, Orciani green washed leather belt, Incotex light grey flannel five-pocket pants, W. Kleinberg blue ostrich wallet, Zodiac Sea Dragon automatic watch, Roda wool and cashmere scarf, Eyebobs reading glasses, Maurizio Baldassari navy cashmere and wool car coat

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Warm

DETAILS

Rev er sIb le Jacket Maurizio Baldassari blue wool and chocolate leather reversible jacket

Little Things That Make A Lasting Impression

B utto ns Eidos green houndstooth cardigan

eLb ow patc h Alan Paine hunter green merino wool quarter-button sweater with elbow patch

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D o n e gal Jacket Relwen navy Donegal jacket

Tech pocket Incotex grey and black check wool travel pants with tech pocket

D o u ble Zippe r s w eate r Relwen blue and grey wool sweater with double zipper

P e r forated L eath er Jacket & Fla nn el Sh irt Robert Comstock navy perforated suede jacket, Eidos blue and orange brushed cotton sport shirt

T r Avel tr ouse r s Gran Sasso blue cashmere V-neck sweater, Incotex blue wool travel trousers

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C R A F T I N G E T E R N I T Y S I N CE 1 7 5 5 260 years of continuous history is reflected in the Harmony Collection. A new legacy has dawned.

HARMONY D UA L T I M E

Geneva official watchmaking certification

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luxury, meet

power Beneath the elegant exterior of Bentley’s Mulsanne beats the heart of a world-class race car.

By Luca Sumberac

B

eauty. Class. Poise. Think of Bentley Motors, and those are some of the words that come to mind. However, what most people don’t realize is that the automotive institution also has deep roots in speed, power and racing. Enter the Bentley Mulsanne, a luxurious limousine-like sedan with raw power that harks back to Bentley’s rich history of automotive excellence.

It’s no coincidence that the vehicle derives its name from the renowned

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Rarely if ever in automotive history has such an agile dynamo also offered such regal comfort.

This page: The Mulsanne brings unmistakable grandeur to the road, with zesty performance ing down the Autobahn at speeds straightaway on the legendary Circuit that belies its aristocratic luxury. Its handcrafted interior reflects meticulous craftsmanship—in well over 100 mph. de La Sarthe, home to one of the most one option, Apple iPad workstations with Internet access are integrated into retractable “picThe exterior features the iconic races in auto sports—24 Hours nic tables” in the rear cabin. Opposite, from top: an optional classic “flying B” hood ornament, a 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V8 engine and a wheel crafted from a single piece of aluminum. unmistakable Bentley headlights, of Le Mans. A race, by the way, that a beautiful polished stainless steel Bentley has won six times. Even more grille and unique 20˝ alloy wheels (21˝ alloys available as an upgrade). Want impressive? Bentley ranks fifth in the total number of Le Mans wins, placing to ensure your Mulsanne’s uniqueness? How about some customization? behind Jaguar, Audi, Ferrari and Porsche.

Spring for the exterior accoutrements available with the Mulliner Driving Let’s be clear. The Mulsanne is not a supercar; it’s not even a sports Specification option, which adds “Flying B” wing vents and the iconic “Flycar. It’s something more. It melds the best of luxury, comfort and perforing B” radiator mascot. Still not enough? With more than 100 exterior paint mance cues and wraps them up in one of the classiest bows on the market. colors, 24 interior hide colors or a bespoke option in which you’ll work with Spy the Mulsanne (consider yourself lucky if you do) and you’re instantly Bentley to create a custom color scheme, there are plenty of combinations struck by its contours—the elegant yet powerful lines emanate regalness. that will make your Mulsanne like no other—crucial if you plan on pulling And like the most stately of kings, it commands attention. After all, it’s up to a swanky gala. big—Henry VIII big. At just over 18 feet long and almost 6,000 pounds, So what powers this three-ton piece of art? Credit goes to a 6.75-liter, it’s the type of car you’d imagine seeing on Rodeo Drive shepherding twin-turbo V8 that produces 505 bhp and 752 lb. ft of torque. All that power sheiks, earls, viscounts and baronesses on extravagant shopping trips, or means the Mulsanne is capable of going from 0 to 60 in 5.1 seconds and can chauffeuring Hollywood royalty during a weekend getaway in Monaco. reach a top speed of 184 mph! Those are impressive numbers for a car that And herein lies its genius: It’s also easy to imagine the Mulsanne scream-

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weighs more than a Chevy Suburban.

And inside? Whether you’ll be enjoying the Mulsanne in the driver’s seat, riding shotgun or taking up the rear, you’ll be greeted by an interior second to none. For starters, it’s dripping in leather—16 cowhides, to be precise, carefully curated to avoid any defects.

Complementing the leather is one continuous veneer that wraps around the entire interior.

Take your pick of Burr Walnut, Dark Stained Burr Walnut or Piano Black. If those options don’t catch your eye, you’ll be able to choose from eight other veneers. There are plenty of amenities on board—12v sockets, 14 speakers standard (audiophiles may want to upgrade to the 20-speaker Naim system) and programmable settings to adjust for different drivers.

Oh, and let’s not forget the option of adding a frosted-glass bottle cooler with accompanying champagne flutes (ideal for those who prefer to be chauffeured)!

At the end of the day, the Mulsanne won’t break any track records, it doesn’t get great gas mileage (11 mpg city/18 mpg highway) and its poster might not adorn the walls of 12-year-old car lovers. But none of that matters. It doesn’t need blistering speed. It doesn’t need exotic looks.

It’s built for enjoyment of a higher class. The Mulsanne stands out without even trying—and that’s what makes this car so special.

The Mulsanne at a Glance

base price $306,425

Weight 5,919 lbs.

Dimensions length 18 feet, 3 inches, wheelbase 10 feet, 8 inches

Drive rear-wheel

Engine 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V8 with cam phasing and variable displacement

Gearbox 8-speed automatic

Suspension Air springs with continuous damping control; four driver-selectable settings

Output 505 bhp @ 4200 rpm, 752 lb.-ft. torque @ 1750 rpm

Top speed 184 mph

0 to 60 mph in 5.1 seconds

Weight-to-power ratio 11.8 lbs./HP

Closest competitor Rolls Royce Ghost Series II

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Belvest up-blue wool and silk sportcoat, Eton white, blue and tan plaid dress shirt, Nicky silk tie, wool pocket square

SUIT UP

Dressing to Impress

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RI G H T Hickey Freeman charcoal and brown windowpane wool suit, Eton light blue dress shirt, Dolcepunta silk seven-fold tie, SimonnotGodard pocket square

B E LO W Belvest charcoal super 120s chalk hairline stripe suit, Lorenzini white dress shirt, Canali silk tie, Simonnot-Godard pocket square

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SARTORIAL STAPLES Sartoria Partenopea dark blue micro-check super 130s wool suit, Canali purple micro-check dress shirt, Dolcepunta silk seven-fold tie, Simonnot-Godard pocket square, W. Kleinberg belt, Eyebobs reading glasses

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CAREFREE IN CASHMERE Boglioli warm brown cashmere sportcoat, Tasca grey wool quarter-zip sweater, Xacus blue checked sport shirt, Edward Armah pocket square

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Unstructured

SPORTCOATS Polished Looks for Casual Occasions

S n ap u p and h ead out Luciano Barbera burgundy and blue wool plaid sportcoat, Left Coast Tee knitted light blue pearl snap sport shirt

LEF T E le v e n t y o’ clock Eleventy grey and black wool plaid sport coat with bouclé finish, C.P. Company blue garment dyed V-neck sweater, C.P. Company lightweight selvedge denim shirt, Tsovet watch, Simonnot-Godard pocket square, To Boot New York driving loafer

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It’s in the Bag

Gran Sasso navy and charcoal wool quarter-button sweater

Simple selects for comfortable travel

Tsovet watch

Orciani belt

LEF T Eleventy brown suede doublebreasted vest, Alessandro Gherardi washed denim sport shirt, Citizens of Humanity black denim jeans, Moore & Giles duffel

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Gran Sasso light grey cashmere pullover

Pull Over and Pull Up Nonchalance never looked so good

Ecoalf navy duffel

J Brand indigo denim jeans, To Boot New York Amos shoes

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Structured

SPORT COATS

Clock in and C heck o u t Sartoria Partenopea grey and burgundy plaid sportcoat, Eton white dress shirt, Dolcepunta silk seven-fold tie, Edward Armah pocket square

Mix li ke a m aster Sartoria Partenopea blue windowpane sportcoat, Canali blue micro-check dress shirt, Dolcepunta silk seven-fold tie, Simonnot-Godard pocket square

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Belvest tan, brown and blue plaid sportcoat, Eton blue and white striped dress shirt, Dolcepunta silk seven-fold tie, brown linen pocket square

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HILTL REVOLUTIONIZES THE TRAVEL TROUSER. HIGH PERFORMANCE FABRICS OFFER COMPLETE FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT IN MODERN SILHOUETTES. AVAILABLE IN WOOL, COTTON AND DENIM.

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H O L I D AY

P A R T I E S

reserve this private room for up to 75 guests.

Contact Chantelle Randolf at 214.843.0835 for help in planning your private party upstairs at Mesero-Henderson. Ask also about catering and gift cards.

M e x i c a n

S p i r i t

A m e r i c a n

L i f e

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the sporting life About an hour south of Bozeman, Montana, you’ll find the magnificent Big Sky Resort, with some of the most thrilling powder skiing this side of Switzerland.

And you won’t spend half the day waiting in lift lines.

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big sky’s the limit

Skip the crowds and come to Montana, where America’s largest ski area offers perfect powder, breathtaking vistas and the flavor of the West. By Everett Potter

I

’m not exaggerating when I tell you I can smell the adrenaline in the tiny tram at Big Sky Resort, which is rapidly ascending a sheer rock face to the 11,166-foot summit of Lone Mountain. Crammed inside with me are a dozen pumped-up skiers, gazing out at the seemingly limitless expanse of peaks and the vast sky that gives sprawling Montana its nickname—“the Big Sky country”—and names this resort as well.

Big Sky Resort, which was opened in 1973 by the late, legendary NBC newsman Chet Huntley, is directly below. On the mountain’s north side is Moonlight Basin, a real-estate-development-turned-ski-resort that merged with Big Sky a couple of years ago. Like most of the other skiers and boarders on this tram, I’ve been happily skiing between the two, which is easy enough because they are connected. Michigan-based Boyne Resorts, which operates them both, added even more terrain when it acquired a private ski area on Spirit Mountain. With these properties combined, the new Big Sky Resort offers 5,750 acres of terrain, nudging ahead of Vail’s 5,289 to become the largest ski area in America. It’s why my tram-mates are so jazzed about accessing the gnarliest in-bounds terrain this side of the Alps.

“It’s blowing a little hard up here,” says a guy wearing enough gear to ascend Everest as we step out of the gondola. Hard? I’m being blown backwards on my skis. The wind actually clocks at 80 miles per hour, but I won’t learn that until I ski down Marx, one of Big Sky’s famous Dictator Chutes.

That’s dictators as in Castro, Lenin and Marx (an honorary dictator, I guess).

I am sweating bullets as I ski down the thick, wind-blasted powder on Marx, which

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the sporting life Clockwise from left: The Mountain Guest House at the Yellowstone Club, which has openings for new members; Karl Marx didn’t actually get to be a dictator, but this run named for him is one of Big Sky’s famous “Dictator Chutes”; Scissorbills Saloon serves a mean grilled elk steak.

turns out to be steeper than anything I’ve ever wanted to ski. How steep? Let’s put it can be hard to leave one’s 860-square-foot, two-bedroom Cowboy Cabin. Cowboys should have it so good, with handsome leather chairs, drop-dead views of the Spanthis way: If I fell, I’d probably end up in Utah. ish Peaks range and a private alfresco hot tub.

Steep, yes. But later I also cruise my way into corduroy bliss. There are dozens Just outside Big Sky Resort is the legendary Buck’s T-4 Lodge, a rambling but of well-heeled doctors, lawyers and corporate chiefs from Minneapolis, Detroit and comfortable place with a slight roadhouse feel, with log walls, stone fireplaces and Chicago. They’re enjoying the exceptionally long and well-groomed runs and the trophy heads. The star attraction here is the restaurant, arguably the best in the area, absence of crowds at both Big Sky and Moonlight Basin. Nearly 40 percent of the and a wine cellar that has been winning Wine Spectator’s Awards of Excellence for terrain is ideal for beginners and intermediates.

Big Sky Resort lies about an hour’s drive south of Bozeman, which is well two decades. A destination for those who love cross-country skiing is Lone Mounserved by major airlines. Yet this is not Colorado or Utah, or even Wyoming. There tain Ranch, which is one of the greatest dedicated Nordic resorts in the United are no crowds or lift lines here, despite the fact that the Big Sky area has some of the States. Even if you’re not staying there, it’s a treat to enjoy an evening sleigh ride most extraordinary natural attractions in the lower 48 states. Yellowstone National followed by a three-course dinner in the candlelit lodge.

There’s another great skiing option adjacent to Big Sky Resort, but it’s only Park is a few miles down the road from the ski resort. The Gallatin and Madison Rivers, nirvana for the fly-fishing set, are within casting distance. And the skiing is as available to member-residents. The Yellowstone Club, which opened in 1999, owns the 9,860-foot Pioneer Mountain, with more than 2,000 skiable good as it gets: On a typical day, when you jump on a high-speed acres. Memberships remain available—the current total of 460 quad there will typically be empty chairs ahead of and behind you. will rise to 864 before it’s capped. (To buy, you must pass muster You can ski more in a morning here than you can all day at another from a board that includes Microsoft founder Bill Gates and resort where you have to wait in line for 20 minutes after every run.

BIG SKY RESORT GETTING THERE New England Patriots quarterback Tom Brady.)

The numbers tell the story: Big Sky draws about 370,000 skiers a United, Delta, Frontier, Alaska Then there’s the other Yellowstone, the park, easily accessible year, while Vail gets 1.7 million. You will have no trouble finding a and Allegiant airlines serve to all of us. This national treasure gets just three percent of its 3 place to sit at lunch. Dinner is fun, not a mob scene with Type A’s Bozeman–Yellowstone International Airport, which is million tourists in wintertime. From Big Sky, you can arrange to jostling for reservations.

38 miles north of Big Sky. head into the park with an outfitter on a snow coach tour to see The ski village offers a welcome bustle, and there’s an activity FOR MORE INFORMATION bison and elk herds and observe the geysers steaming in the winter center where non-Alpine sports like tubing, zip-lining and snowVisit bigskyresort.com. cold. Wolf sightings are also possible. shoeing are offered. There are bars and restaurants here, though if The park welcomes cross-country skiers, snowshoers and you’re used to Vail or Aspen the vibe seems pretty sedate and cowboy-flavored. Places like Scissorbills Saloon and the Cabin Bar & Grill invite you to snowmobilers. There are tracks set for cross-country skiers, and the park’s unplowed tuck into hearty steaks and Montana elk. Lodging choices run the gamut, but condo- roads and trails are fair game for those on snowshoes. There are also miles of backstyle accommodations rule. The Lodge at Big Sky and The Summit at Big Sky both country wilderness to explore, but unless you’re an experienced backcountry skier offer condos at the mountain’s base, as does the Big Sky Resort Village Center, which or snowshoer, contact one of the park’s nearly two dozen licensed guides to take you safely into the wild. Snowmobilers will also need to go with a registered company. is a bit more upscale.

Whether you take your skiing straight or pair it with these other activities, don’t I prefer staying over at Moonlight Basin, where lodgings are a bevy of newly come to Big Sky for a scene, or to be seen. Come for true Montana hospitality and a built homes, condos, town homes and cabins, all adhering to a strict Western stonechance to try Wild West skiing in the biggest mountain complex in the United States. and-timber aesthetic. My favorite is the Cowboy Heaven luxury suites, where it 40

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belvest.com

MADE IN ITALY

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some like it

hot

By Michael Hiller

once a year, a tiny town shows the world how to do chili—alias “texas red.”

T

erlingua, Texas, population 58, isn’t much to look at—a dusty ghost town of caliche roads, prickly ocotillo and sagebrush tangles. But on the first Saturday of November each year, this patch of desert west of Big Bend National Park bustles with thousands of chili fans and hundreds of cooks who arrive to compete in the town’s world-famous Chili Appreciation Society International Chili Championship.

Almost overnight, the air fills with the scent of wood smoke, too much beer and simmering pots of Texas red. It’s a rowdy crowd that shares a love for country music, the Lone Star State and chili con carne, a spicy dish born on the cattle trails near San Antonio whose primary ingredients are red chiles and meat. Every other ingredient, from tomatoes to onions to seasonings, is subject to intense debate. But on one thing every Texas chili-head agrees: Real chili contains no beans. Use beans in your chili at this cook-off and you’ll be instantly disqualified.

Frank Tolbert, a journalist and historian who was considered the state’s leading authority on chili until his death in 1984,

regarded beans as heretical. “Heaven help us one and all,” he wrote in response to a Yankee cook who espoused a beany recipe. “You might as well throw in some puffed rice, or a handful of shredded alfalfa, or a few maraschino cherries!”

A line from the Terlingua Chili Cook-Off ’s anthem says: “If you know beans about chili, you know that chili has no beans.”

Texans are no more bashful about chili than about anything else. “Chili concocted outside of Texas is a weak, apologetic imitation of the real thing,” insisted Lyndon Johnson. In 1977, the legislature proclaimed chili the “state dish,” declaring, “The only real ‘bowl of red’ is that prepared by Texans.”

Of course, not everyone agrees. Nontraditionalists across the U.S. not only dare to include beans, but also like to put their own spin on this classic, adding turkey, pork, even spaghetti to their chili pots. Some say those dishes are more properly called stews or soups or casseroles. And some call them delicious. But in Terlingua, they won’t call them chili.

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profile

Simply

Scandinavian... but born in the USA

For incomparable Eton shirts, there are other stops along the way.

F

ounded by husband-and-wife team David and Annie Pettersson in the village of Gånghester, Sweden, Eton has been synonymous with quality men’s shirts since 1928—but Eton hasn’t always been its name. The original name, Shirt Factory Special, changed in 1948 following a visit by the two entrepreneurs to England. “They fell in love with Eton, a

charming English town with a storied history, and a new brand moniker was born,” says Chris Donohue, Director of Sales in North America. Today the company’s luxe shirts, ties, scarves and pocket squares are sold around the world, yet this still partly family-owned operation continues to pride itself on superior garments that take up to six months to craft.

This international story actually begins in America, as 90 percent of Eton’s extra-long staple (ELS) cotton comes from San Joaquin County in California. (The rest is grown in Egypt.) “ELS, which accounts for only 3 percent of the world’s cotton, has superior fiber qualities, such as stronger filaments and higher torsion thread, which is why we use it exclusively,” Donohue explains.

After harvest, raw fibers are shipped to Italy, where they’re spun and woven by some of the world’s most highly skilled artisans. Albini Group, located in Albino, Italy, is famous for its looming, and Eton is its largest partner. “Besides conceiving new patterns and color combinations for our shirts and ties, we also constantly invent novel weaving techniques that continuously revolutionize the market,” says Donohue.

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In Switzerland, all shirts next go through a specialized—and top-secret—finishing process, wherein scientifically trained workers actually alter the cotton’s molecular structure to make it more wrinkle-resistant. Most manufacturers try to prevent creases with a formaldehyde-based topical treatment that coats fibers, but that method has two drawbacks: Sealing cotton means it can’t “breathe,” with the result that clothes tend to trap heat, and the substance washes off after several dry-cleaning cycles. Says Donohue: “While that procedure takes four days to complete, our finish is accomplished over the course of four weeks.”

Cutting, sewing and trimming of Eton garments happen in Eastern Europe, at exclusive production facilities bordering the Black Sea. It’s an exceptionally controlled 40-step process that alone takes one month to execute. “By remaining hyper-focused on shirts, ties and other accessories, we’ve been able to perfect our manufacturing process since Eton’s earliest days,” says Donohue.

At a time when many clothing manufacturers use the quickest production methods to meet bottom-line pressures, Eton opts for the refinement that only an investment of time can provide. And while many competitors outsource some operations, again to save money, Eton owns its entire international production process. It is therefore able to control all aspects of the creation of each shirt, assuring unparalleled quality. —Francesca Moisin

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room key

st. barts:

a beauty on the beach Luxury has a Gallic accent at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. By Rita Guarna

I

From top, Should you tire of relaxing on the beach, a tranquil pool awaits at the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. Enjoy cocktails for two with a breathtaking view from this private ocean-facing perch.

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f the Hotel St.-Barth Isle de France were a woman, you could say she married well.

French luxury brand LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) could have its choice of lovely “mademoiselles” when searching for a suitable match in North America, but the boutique hotel on Anse des Flamands, probably the prettiest beach on the island, won out and after a year-long engagement (read: renovation), it joined the exalted Cheval Blanc family. (Other family members include Courchevel in France and Randheli in the Maldives.)

Perhaps the best part of the union is that it appears that little has changed at the beloved hotel, now called the Cheval Blanc St.-Barth Isle de France. The staff—the hotel’s heart and soul—remains the same: affable, accommodating to a fault and decidedly French. The only difference is that now they don charming seersucker uniforms.

Similar too are the guest quarters—40 suites, bungalows and villas, which feel less like hotel rooms than the bedrooms of a Provençal family. The whitewashed country furnishings have been upgraded with the brand’s signature taupe plus accents of the palest salmon-pink, which you’ll find on everything from beach towels to pillows to glassware. Thankfully, the popular daily fashion shows remain too. They feature resort wear from the hotel’s closet-sized boutique stuffed with everything from Pucci bikinis and stylish caftans to straw hats and jewelry. Don’t be surprised if the model, Roxane, looks familiar: When she’s not strolling the sandy catwalk, she’s taking your dinner order in a charmingly halting English.

Oh, yes, the food. As a French territory, St. Barts not surprisingly has a cuisine that reminds you of dining in the south of France. Chef Yann Vinsot oversees a pair of excellent eateries on this property: La Case de L’Isle, featuring sophisticated FrenchCaribbean plates (plus a 150-odd selection of wines and champagnes) and the more casual La Cabane de L’Isle, site of the fashion shows.

Only eight miles across, St. Barts (short for St. Barthélemy and sometimes spelled St. Barth) is a hilly (thanks to a number of volcanic peaks) speck popping out of the northeast Caribbean in the French West Indies. Discovered by Christopher Columbus in 1493 (who named it for his brother Bartolomeo), the island was settled by the French and owned for a while by Sweden before returning to French control. It became chichi

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after the Rockefellers and Rothschilds fell for its charm in the mid-’50s.

With no direct flights, getting to St. Barts isn’t easy. Some folks fly to St. Maarten and take a short flight or ferry across. A more civilized crossing (read: easier) is flying to San Juan, then boarding a tiny puddle jumper. One of Tradewind Aviation’s multiple daily flights will do nicely. Its Pilatus PC-12s are comfortable and sturdy—important features as the eight-seater threads between two jagged peaks before touching down on a teensy runway.

(Flights from St. Thomas and Antigua are also available.)

While the atmosphere is relaxed, folks do dress to impress while shopping or dining in the capital city, Gustavia, with its yacht-lined harbor. (The island hosts one of the world’s most thrilling yacht races, Les Voiles de St. Barth.) Luxury brands abound along with unique boutiques, often outposts of exclusive Parisian designers.

Prefer to test your sea legs with a more gentle cruise? Rent a catamaran with crew for a day-long or half-day tour. Our captain, Miguel of St. Barth Sailor, anchored in the bay near Colombier, where we swam to the beach (the only one of 16 beaches not easily accessible), after which we sipped champagne and nibbled on a gourmet lunch prepared by Cheval Blanc (lest we miss the restaurants’ gastronomic delights too much).

Back on terra firma, we proceeded to Bonito, where fashionistas flock to enjoy a delicious Latin American menu alongside unrivaled views of the harbor from an open-air pavilion.

If your “cruise” doesn’t offer enough of a respite, the spa back at Cheval Blanc will chase away any lingering stress. It offers signature Guerlain treatments. (It’s the only Guerlain spa in the Caribbean.) Try the Solar Escape, a body massage combined with a facial, or let a beauty coach choose an indulgent experience for you.

Do you think you could enjoy an island with no casinos, no all-inclusives, no cruise ships in port? An island with no poverty, no crime, no beach vendors? With unfailingly polite people, awe-inspiring vistas, white sand (or shell or stone) beaches and top-notch cuisine?

I do.

Clockwise from top, a private pool, one of the many amenities of the tucked-away Garden Suites; modeling the statement-making fashions available at the tony boutique; snorkeling in the blue waters of the Caribbean right in the resort’s backyard; the ultimate in luxury: a three-bedroom villa set on the white sand beach; salade niçoise, perfect for a light lunch.

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The

BLACK TIE Formal wear for that special occasion

L ink it up Tateossian sterling silver and black rhodium cuff links

Tie it together Carrot & Gibbs black silk bow tie

Ri g h t Canali black cashmere top coat, Eidos navy shawl-collar tuxedo, Canali tuxedo shirt, Inis Meรกin brown and black plaid scarf

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