MR Magazine: May 2015

PERSON OF THE YEAR: NAUTICA’S KAREN MURRAY MADE IN AMERICA SPRUCING UP SANTA

NOVEMBER 2015

Boy Meets Girl

WRITER & PERFORMER COLIN JOST BELIEVES GIVING IS BECOMING. 100% of net proďŹ ts from Geoffrey Beene, LLC fund revolutionary new cancer research at the Geoffrey Beene Cancer Research Center at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center.

GEOFFREYBEENE.COM

14

PERSON OF THE YEAR

56

HOW ____WORKS

Catching up with Adam Schoenberg of Hook + Albert.

Nautica’s Karen Murray on family, fundraisers and fashion.

Lightweight double-breasted jackets, checks and pastels are three effortless trends for S/S ‘16

9 49

SPRUCING UP SANTA

Designers and stores re-imagine what might be the most over-worn outfit ever.

BOY MEETS GIRL An exploration of androgyny in the SS16 collections.

35 MADE IN AMERICA

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, S/S ’16.

The American garment industry makes a bold push back into the fold.

Contents

Also in this issue: 4 Editor’s Letter 6 Ones To Watch 8 MR Scene 50 Fashion On our cover: Robert Geller SHIRTS, TANK TOPS; Brooke Marks-Swanson NECKLACES; Claude Chavent EARRINGS, aaronfaber.com.

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ______________________________________________________________________________________________Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 710-7422 KARENA@MR-MAG.COM MANAGING EDITOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________Brian Scott Lipton (212) 710-7459 BRIANL@MR-MAG.COM FASHION DIRECTOR ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Buckley (212) 710-7424 WILLIAMB@MR-MAG.COM WEB EDITOR ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Stephen Garner (212) 710-7436 STEPHENG@MR-MAG.COM COPY EDITOR ______________________________________________________________________________________________________Jillian LaRochelle (212) 710-7442 JILLIANL@BUSJOUR.COM EDITOR-AT-LARGE _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Michael Macko MICHAELM@MR-MAG.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITER _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Kissel (805) 693-5838

ADVERTISING PUBLISHER EMERITUS _______________________________________________________________________________________________Stuart Nifoussi (212) 710-7407 STUNIFOO@MR-MAG.COM PUBLISHER ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin (212) 710-7414 LIZETTEC@MR-MAG.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ______________________________________________________________________________________________Michelle Brown (212) 710-7413 MICHELLEB@MR-MAG.COM ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE ____________________________________________________________________________________________Chelsea Richardson (212) 710-7440 CHELSEAR@MR-MAG.COM DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS ___________________________________________________________________________________________Samuel Johnson (212) 710-7421 SAMUELJ@MR-MAG.COM ADVERTISING COORDINATOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________Donna Doyle (212) 710-7417 DONNAD@MR-MAG.COM

ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Hans Gschliesser DESIGNER _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Joanne Kvaka DESIGNER __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Peggy Eadie EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE _______________________________________________________________________________1384 BROADWAY, 11TH FL., NEW YORK, NY 10018 (212) 686-4412 FAX: (212) 686-6821 BUSINESS OFFICE __________________________________________________________________________________________________50 DAY STREET, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 853-6015 FAX: (203) 852-8175

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, MARIO’S Wayne Drummond ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Doug Ewert_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________CEO, MEN’S WEARHOUSE Dan Farrington _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP David Fisher___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, OUTLETS, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Tom Ott ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________VP/GMM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE David Witman _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________EVP/GMM, NORDSTROM

BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC. CHAIRMAN & COO _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Mac Brighton PRESIDENT & CEO _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Britton Jones CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Christine Sullivan VICE PRESIDENT, MENSWEAR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin

SUBSCRIPTIONS

CUSTOMER SERVICE: PLEASE EMAIL YOUR REQUEST TO MRM@KMPSGROUP.COM OR FAX IT TO 1-866-658-6156 OR MAIL TO: MR MAGAZINE, P.O. BOX 47370, PLYMOUTH, MN 55447.

OR YOU CAN CALL US AT 1-800-869-6882.

MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published six times a year (January, February, April/May, July, August and November) by Business Journals, Inc. 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 143678. Subscription for the U.S. $34 one year, $53 two years; Canada $63 one year, $95 two years (Canadian currency). Foreign $102, Air Mail. Single copies: U.S. $4.00; Foreign $4.00 plus postage. Claims for undelivered copies not honored after 30 days from publication (90 days for overseas). ©2015 Business Journals, Inc. Address correction requested. Postmaster send address changes to MR, P.O. Box 47370, Plymouth, MN 55447-0370. Printed in the USA.

2

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

{ EDITORIAL }

DREAMING

BIG

An Ivy League education? A multi-million dollar foundation?

In our wonderful industry, dreams do come true.

a note this past June: ‘Please permission to take off Friday: I am wanting to see daughter graduate from Cornell University.’” (Of course he got the time off; HF senior VP Chris Linares notes that the company gives out several college scholarships each year, which are presented at a summer picnic by CEO Stephen Granovsky.)

A daughter’s Cornell graduation! Could there be a more touching illustration of America’s promise, of the dream that our country continues to represent for so many immigrants from so many diverse backgrounds? As I toured this historic, multicultural factory and chatted with many of Hickey’s 550 employees (23 different languages!), I was extremely impressed by their talent (many were trained on the factory floor), and by their intense dedication to their craft. (For more on the Hickey Freeman factory, see MR-Mag.com) Clearly, this same kind of passion and pride is evident in other U.S. factories featured in our Made in America advertorial supplement in this issue (page 35); I’ve visited several of them over the years and am always amazed at the great product we can create here at home. I urge our retail readers to check out these impressive domestic factories and consider implementing a Made in America section in your stores and/or on your websites.

We believe this focus will finally resonate with a sizable percentage of customers, especially during an election year. (And why should Japanese retailers be buying up all our best American-made fashion?)

Also in this issue, based on tons of industry input, our 2015 Person of the Year is Nautica’s Karen Murray. I’ve known Karen since we launched MR magazine 26 years ago and have always been in awe of her rare combination of professionalism and personal warmth. What I didn’t know is how tough she can be. As her business colleagues confide, when she believes in something, she’ll fight to the end to make it happen, never afraid to challenge even her biggest retail partners to step up to the plate and make changes. “I’d say she’s a velvet hammer: lovely with tremendous charm but wickedly aggressive,” says Macy’s president Jeff Gennette, who recently implemented several of her suggestions at Macy’s. (Read our feature on page 14 for the details.)

Most notable, of course, is how her personal life story motivated her to create a foundation to raise awareness (and funds, more than $11 million so far) for Marfan Syndrome, a medical condition that few doctors even knew about 20 years ago. “What Karen has done to bring awareness to Marfan Syndrome is absolutely incredible. It’s such a commitment of time and energy, yet she keeps raising the bar every year,” says David Levin, chairman of DXL Stores. “She’s a powerful example of how each and every one of us can make a difference,” notes Liz Rodbell, president, Hudson’s Bay-Lord & Taylor. And from Nautica VP Nina Flood, “She inspires me every day to be a better person.”

Speaking of inspiration (and on a much lighter note), we devoted a few pages in this issue to William Buckley’s take on androgyny (page 51), and to a fashion-forward update of Santa’s tired red suit (page 9). Wishing all of our readers a beautiful holiday season, filled with good health, good business, and dreams come true.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

4

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

PHOTO BY KEITH BARRACLOUGH PHOTOGRAPHY

During a recent tour of the Hickey Freeman factory in Rochester, NY (which has been making suits without interruption for 104 years), I was inadvertently brought to tears when Sacha Smits, HF’s director of production, shared the following: “One of our longtime factory workers, a lovely Asian man with limited English, handed me

MADE IN THE USA Since 1887, Hart Schaffner Marx has handcrafted clothing in the heart of America, Chicago, IL.

W DIAMOND GROUP & PEERLESS CLOTHING want to celebrate this commitment to the American Spirit, Ingenuity, and the American workers that put pride and passion into every garment they make.

{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} }

Pied Pipers GALET

Loafing around has taken on a new meaning for men since Jonathan Horemans and Javier Goggins decided to introduce Galet in 2004. Their handmade line of French footwear combines sophisticated style and complete comfort in one shoe, with retail prices in the $250 range.

“Javier and I started Galet because we felt that there was a need for a well-made, high-end, comfortable loafer for men with a more fashion-forward focus than what was out there,” says Horemans. “Furthermore, we believe that the car shoe shape is dated and often loses its shape. But the slipper silhouette is very chic but versatile at the same time. So we have added a rubber sole, so men are able to wear it like a normal loafer. By playing with the materials, we are giving men more options than they previously had.”

The pair is particularly proud of their flagship store in Saint-Germain, Paris, which has a private room in the back where loyal customers can choose from limited edition designs or have bespoke models made for them. But they’re even more excited to expand in the U.S. market. “We believe this will be a very important and interesting market for us,” says Horemans. To that end, they opened a mobile pop-up shop in the Hamptons this summer using a fully restored Citroen-H van from the 1950s. “We thought it was a great way to represent Galet in the United States,” he says. “We wanted to create an experience which makes people smile, just like our shoes.” —BSL

Their line combines sophisticated style and complete comfort in one shoe.

Young Turks RES IPSA

In their brief careers as lawyers in Atlanta, Odini Gogo and Josh Moore found they enjoyed putting fancy clothes over their briefs far more than filing briefs. So they decided to start a tie line called Res Ipsa (part of a familiar Latin legal phrase that means the thing speaks for itself). But on their first sourcing trip, which began in Scotland, the pair decided to venture to Istanbul, Turkey for some fabrics. And presto chango: a burgeoning neckwear business was soon transformed into something else entirely.

“We were walking through the Grand Bazaar and we saw this store with lots of wonderful kilim products,” relates Moore. “When we told this guy who worked there why we were there, he pulls out a Georgia driver’s license from when he had been a student there. As the conversation progressed, we found out his family had a small factory where they made all the goods, and soon we began to describe other items we wanted to make from slippers to dopp kits.

The pair now utilize kilim for an assortment of shoes, bags and small accessories (retail $135-$495) that have proven particularly popular with men. “I think people appreciate that everything is handmade,” says Gogo. “Still, we know sometimes we have to educate the consumer about the importance of handmade goods and why they cost more than mass-produced ones.”

The duo may be working even longer hours than they did as attorneys, but you’ll hear no complaints. “Yes, it’s hard work, especially since we’re still a two-person company,” says Moore. “But unlike law, the difference here is that it’s not soul-sucking drudgery!”—BSL

“People appreciate that everything is handmade.”

6

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

Good Ties DAVID FIN

Look Good, Feel Good, Do Good. These are three essential principles David Herzka takes to heart. When starting David Fin earlier this year, Herzka sought to make a tie with high-quality fabrics at an affordable price that can benefit others along the way. His brand lives up it to its aims. Each tie is made from fine silks and wools sourced from the same mills in Como, Italy that many luxury labels source from and is hand sewn by trained craftsmen in New York City. Better yet, five dollars from each tie is donated to Hiring Our Heroes, an initiative of the U.S. Chamber of Commerce Foundation, which helps veterans find meaningful employment. (Prices range from $85 to $105.)

However, unlike most of his competitors, Herzka only sells directly to consumers through his e-commerce website (davidfin.com), which he feels is the best way to make his product stand out to the desirable Millennial customer. “My ties would get lost in the shuffle of a large department store,” he says. “And I don’t want to take attention away from the great things Hire Our Heroes is doing for our veterans.”

However, Fin is looking to expand his reach in the near future by selling on consignment offerings in their shops. It’s all for the greater good. —SG

High quality neckwear at affordable prices

Rock Star

DANIEL WON COLLECTION

“The look is sporty chic: beautiful clothes with handcrafted details.”

If you’ve noticed cool young guys wearing fleece shorts with leather skull icons, or sweatshirts with hoods that convert to masks, you’re likely in Daniel Won territory. But the designer isn’t taking all the credit for his line’s nearly overnight success, which is featured in such diverse stores as Neiman Marcus and Nojo Kicks in Detroit.

“I get most of my inspiration from music, both rap and rock,” says Won. “Lucky for me, celebrities are buying my clothes and posting photos on their Instagrams: Usher, Yazz from American Idol, Detroit rapper Royce da5’9…”

Won was born in Chicago but moved to Korea at age six. While he worked as a designer in Korea, where he graduated from Hangyang University, Won wanted “a bigger pond.” So he moved back to the States and graduated from FIT. His design positions in the U.S. have included working with Robert Comstock, and Emanuel Ungaro Outerwear, among others.

The designer is already deep in planning his fall ‘16 collection, which combines military inspiration with varsity/collegiate touches, but he’s equally happy to discuss some of his current and upcoming favorites: a shirt jacket with embossed leather skull patch ($295 retail); a pant that’s half denim/half leather ($795 retail); and a denim biker jean with elastic knee insets ($375 retail). Best of all are a group of amazing jackets, including one in which the reversible leather sleeves zip off to transform the jacket from solid to color block. That’s what we call inspiration matched to innovation! —KAG

MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

7

{ MR SCENE } OUT AND ABOUT

A LITTLE NIGHT MUSIC

The Rainbow Room

IF MUSIC BE THE FOOD of love, as Shakespeare wrote, just imagine what can happen when the two collide. Thankfully, New York City still has a few choice spots that offer first-class food alongside top-notch entertainment, turning any night into some enchanted evening.

•CAFÉ CARLYLE (35 East 76th Street, 212-744-1600): This intimate boite nestled inside the Carlyle Hotel remains one of Gotham’s most soigne and sophisticated spots, as swell-dressed ladies and gents sit beneath Ludwig Bemelmans’ colorful murals, sup on classic fare such as Dover Sole and Bobby Short’s Chicken Hash, and take in the smooth stylings of jazz guitarist John Pizzarelli and his wife, the sublime vocalist Jessica Molaskey (November 3-28), or crooner Steve Tyrell (December 1-January 2).

• FEINSTEIN’S/54 BELOW (254 West 54th Street. 646-476-3551).

Now that powerhouse pianist-singer Michael Feinstein (left) has joined forces with this underground speakeasy, it has become the placeto-be for savvy New Yorkers. The fare includes such surefire crowd-

pleasers as bacon mac n’ cheese and espresso-marinated hangar steak.

Equally pleasing arsuch notable entertainers as Melissa Manchester (November 5-6), Andrea Marcovicci (November 18-19), Ann Hampton Callaway (November 22-28), and Tony winner Lena Hall (November 28-December 7). Meanwhile, Feinstein himself will close out the year (December 20-30) followed by fellow Tony winner Annaleigh Ashford on New Year’s Eve. •THE RAINBOW ROOM (30 Rockefeller Plaza, 212-632-5000): This dazzling spot on the 65th floor of“30 Rock” (aka the Comcast Building) literally takes romance to new heights, combining a breathtaking view and sublime food and entertainment. On evenings when dancing is offered with groups such as the brilliant Max Weinberg Orchestra, there are two seatings (at 6 p.m. and 8 p.m.), each of which offers a sumptuous prix-fixe dinner.

Mouthwatering selections include Oysters Rockefeller, Lobster Pot Pie, 1934 Rainbow Room Filet Mignon “Maréchal, and Hibiscus Poached Rhubarb. –BSL

READS

TIMELY TOMES CHILLY NIGHTS provide the perfect opportunity to catch up on your reading, and there’s no shortage of worthy books to choose

from for the fashion-conscious bibliophile. In Andrew Wilson’s Alexander McQueen: Blood Beneath the Skin (Scribner), the awardwinning biographer delves deeply into the late designer’s often-unhappy life and brilliant career, reaching out to his friends, relatives, colleagues and lovers to etch a truly multi-faceted portrait. Gaetano Savini: The Man Who Was Brioni (Assouline) is a comprehensive examination of how the Italian cutting-edge craftsman transformed men’s fashion through his use of innovative cuts, bold colors, and psychedelic brands, along with letters, photographs, and personal anecdotes from Gaetano’s daughter, Gigliola Savini Perrone.

A menswear expert for more than three decades, G. Bruce Boyer once again guides his fellow gents as to how dress in a way that incorporates both tradition and personality in True Style: The History & Principles of Classic Menswear (Basic Books), which covers everything from denim to dressing gowns, fragrances, and even pocket squares. And if you’re seeking a slightly more academic approach to the business of fashion, SKEMA Business School colleagues Jonas Hoffman and Laurent LeCamp have coauthored Independent Luxury (Pagrave-Macmillan), which offers strategical approaches for entrepreneurs, creators, designers, and managers who want to succeed in this top-tier, corporate-oriented market. –BSL

8

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

BLOOMINGDALE’S

bloomingdales.com Santa Claus needs an outfit that will keep him warm, colorful and comfortable as he travels the globe on Christmas Eve spreading holiday cheer. This one does the trick!

Canada Goose PUFFER VEST, $345; Gant PLAID SHIRT, $145; The Men’s Store at Bloomingdale’s CABLE KNIT SWEATER, $198; AG CARGO PANTS: $325.

DAVID HART

davidhartnyc.com Santa ditches the beard, slims down, and develops an affinity for Japanese whiskey in his hot chocolate. Santa wears pinstriped pajamas and an English silk foulard dressing robe. Mrs. Claus wears nothing but Santa's hat.

MEN’S ROBE, $1,295, PAJAMAS, $445.

SPRUCING UP SANTA

Now and then, every man needs to update his wardrobe, even a figure as beloved and timeless as Santa Claus. So with the holiday soon approaching, MR asked eight of our favorite stores and designers how they would make Kris Kringle feel up to the minute using pieces from their sales floors or collections. From suave formal wear to whimsical suits to comfy loungewear, their creative solutions for how to replace that old, tired red suit might surprise you! ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANIEL VELASCO, DAVID HART, EMMANUEL NUNEZ MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

9

LEVY’S CLOTHIERS FOR MEN AND WOMEN

levysclothes.com Santa is checking (not decking) the halls this season. Jolly ol’ St. Nick is tired of wearing a suit so he’s going for a casual look this season.

Eton CHECK SHIRT, $275; Victorinox VEST, $185; AG JEANS, $245.

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE

saksfifthavenue.com Santa will look great in this Hugo Boss ensemble. It will definitely update his old, ill-fitting suit.

Hugo Boss JACKET, $1,095, PANTS, $295, SHIRT, $285, TIE, $145, and OVERCOAT, $2,095; SFA BOOTS, $415.

CADET

cadetusa.com Santa attributes his newly svelte figure to both mornings at Barry's Boot Camp and evening Cross-Fit sessions. (Trimming that tired old beard and a modern haircut also made him look and feel younger.)

As for Mrs. Claus, she’s wearing Santa's Cadet flight jacket because she misses him so much while he's away.

Santa’s MERINO FLIGHT SUIT, $698; Mrs. Claus’ FLIGHT JACKET, $398. Both pieces available by special order.

10

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

JEFFREY RUDES

.jeffreyrudes.com This is what the sexy Santa should be wearing this holiday season.

BLUE MOHAIR SHAWL JACKET, $1,600, IVORY SILK SHIRT, $550, SKINNY BLACK JEAN, $400.

MACY’S

macys.com Santa knew he needed a style makeover, so he chose this fun and crazy holiday tree-print suit and tie combination. Now, this sartorial Santa is ready for a selfie.

Cotton Oppo HOLIDAY PRINT SUIT and matching TIE, $100.

MILTONS STORE FOR MEN

miltons.com Santa’s old red velvet suit gets an update with this smart, seasonal look that ensures he will be looking dapper not just on Christmas, but on any occasion.

Tallia Orange VELVET JACKET, $350; Calvin Klein TUXEDO PANTS, $175; Brunn & Stengade WOVEN SHIRT, $98.

CHEERS! MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

11

PHOTO CREDITS Cicero deGuzman Jenna Bascom Dapper Lou Andre d’Esterno

The

MRKET EVOLUTION “ It is an axiomatic truth that change bears opportunity.

We fully embrace this process and MRket is brimming with meaningful opportunity for the menswear industry in 2016.

The MRket team is hard at work: making big changes, implementing new initiatives to attract and engage retailers and creating exciting activations to the January and February shows in New York and Las Vegas.”

- Britton Jones, President & CEO, BJI Fashion Group

From its inception, MRket has placed a premium on the importance of aesthetics, and so for 2016, MRket is unveiling a new booth design and evolving the overall show’s aesthetic. “We’re proud that MRket pioneered the curated open booth format in Vanguards Gallery, and now, we’re ready to take this expression across the entire show floor,” explains Sharon Enright EVP of Business Journals trade show division. “The show will continue to allow for a private working environment, but in a clean, modern and well-lit presentation. We’re creating an atmosphere that combines an inviting, easy-to-shop & open floor plan with a contemporary structure that facilitates business.”

Vanguards Gallery, a section within MRket, has quickly become a prominent fixture for presenting all that is new, emerging and progressive in menswear. As Joey Mendez, Halls contemporary buyer says, “I love walking the Vanguards Gallery to see what’s new. It’s always a well curated area where you can get a snapshot of upcoming trends and brands.” MRket is the only show in North America to spotlight international groups such as Made in Italy and UK Design, as well as lifestyle hubs on the show floor such as Modern Prep and Coast Life.

MRket continues to add layers of experience in order to keep it fresh and modern, but will always offer all the amenities that make it unique: complimentary breakfast, lunch, and bottled water, coffee / espresso / tea lounge, hosted buyer programs, brand presentations, curated still-life vignettes, cocktail reception, an environment conducive to serious business, and…the list goes on.

Additional plans are in the works but can’t be revealed just yet but there is no doubt that the industry will be impressed. MRket invites the men’s community to experience the evolution in New York and Las Vegas.

NEW YO RK JANUARY 24-26, 2016 | SUN-TUES | THE JAVITS CENTER LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 | MON-WED | THE SANDS EXPO/PALAZZO

EXHIBIT: 212.686.4412

ATTEND: 866.696.6020

WWW.MRKETSHOW.COM @MRKETSHOW #MRKETSHOW #VANGUARDSGALLERY

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

My main message to department store retailers is this: if you want the top brands, you have to protect and respect them by promoting less and making the business more profitable.�

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR }

A REMARKABLE FORCE

She’s the kind of woman you’d love to hate—beautiful, smart, multi-talented, successful, glamorous, generous, genuine, the list goes on—but you can’t hate her because she’s so damn nice!

Now president of VF’s Nautica and Kipling brands after a career that includes top positions at Gant, Bugle Boy, and Claiborne, Karen Murray grew up in New Jersey, about a half-hour from Manhattan. Her parents met after WWII (her father was an Air Force gunner on a B-17); both worked full time at government jobs. “It was a humble upbringing, typical lower middle class, but I never felt anything was missing. My parents taught us the value of hard work, and they set the bar high. (I’m probably the least successful among my siblings: my older brother owns car dealerships and restaurants and my younger brother founded a graphic design and internet company that he sold for lots of money while still in his 20s.) I credit my parents who, despite their struggles, always showed us tremendous love and encouragement. It’s their opti-

mistic attitude that’s enabled me to achieve my goals.”

It should come as no surprise to those who know her generous spirit that Murray majored in criminal justice at the University of Maryland.

She had intended to go to law school but changed course when, during a college internship, she found herself overwhelmed by the struggles of the inner-city kids she was trying to help, several of whom did not make it. (Ask about the stories: they are heartbreaking…)

With an intrinsic flair for fashion, she did an about face and went to work for Gant, where she stayed for the next nine years. “I got into fashion because I thought it would be fun and glamorous and I’d never have to do math. I hated math in high school and college, but ironically, all I do these days is work on P+Ls, financial planning, MDs, open-tobuy… (Wisely, I took a few retail math classes along the way.)”

From Gant she went to Bugle Boy. “This was the wild and crazy era of young men’s fashion, a time of parachute pants and partying. I loved

MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

15

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

Talented menswear exec, humanitarian, and fashionista, Karen Murray continues to inspire us all. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR }

We’re building our Nautica business based on consumer insights, on the kind of strong emotional connections that Timberland, Vans, and The North Face have established with their customers.” the excitement but I had just had a baby (August 1991) and the work hours in the young men’s market (10 a.m. to 10 p.m. and then on into the night) weren’t for me.”

So she left for Liz Claiborne, “a fabulous company that was all about empowering women and work/life balance.” It was during this time that she diagnosed her son Michael’s condition: a disorder of the connective tissue called Marfan Syndrome that all the doctors had missed. “I sensed as soon as he was born that his development was different from other babies. He was growing very fast, with a notable indentation in his chest bone, yet this was a little-known condition at the time and not one specialist could come up with a diagnosis. By his fifth birthday, my husband and I had separated and I bought Michael a computer to help him learn. While unpacking it from the carton, I noticed it came with a few free CDs, one of them called Family Doctor. I put it in the computer, clicked on “Rare Diseases,” and started going through the alphabet.

When I got to M, I freaked out: all the symptoms listed for Marfan Syndrome were things I’d noticed in Michael. When I got to the line that described “weak connective tissue, especially in the aorta, which could tear and dissect causing sudden death,” I ran into his room and just stared at him all night until sunrise. Then I picked him up, got into a cab, and rushed to the ER at Mount Sinai hospital, insisting that my child had Marfan Syndrome. They said, ‘Absolutely not: if neither you nor your husband has it, it’s not possible.’ But I finally convinced them to give him an echocardiogram (on the 11th floor, I remember it like yesterday), which showed an enlarged aorta, twice the normal size. All three doctors acknowledged that he had Marfans. I called my parents who took Michael home to the apartment; I then went into the hospital lobby and totally broke down.”

Her breakdown, she explains, came from knowing Marfan Syndrome’s projected life expectancy at the time: teens to 20s. (It’s now

What’s Next ‘‘O

comparable to the general population thanks to surgery, new treatments, beta blockers, and general awareness leading to earlier diagnosis.) “I imagined falling in love with this child and then losing him. I was at Claiborne at the time, president of a $150 million menswear business, and I couldn’t get myself back to work. Instead, I stayed in bed for two months, making myself an expert on the disease, reading every article, calling everyone remotely involved, going to every conference, contacting doctors. Fortunately Claiborne was totally supportive and gave me the time off.”

During this time, Murray told her story on The Today Show (a few appearances), and did numerous newspaper/magazine interviews, including a prize-winning piece in The Wall Street Journal (“A Mother’s Mission” by Kevin Helliker) that asked: when a mother has to diagnose her own child’s illlness, what does that say about the medical community? y goal was always to raise awareness. Even in the shortest TV appearances, I would rattle off the key symptoms and make sure to get in 1-800-MARFANS. We’d get thousands of calls from frantic mothers and grandmothers recognizing symptoms in their children and I’d talk to as many of them as I could. I still do.”

In the midst of all this, Murray organized a little fundraiser at the Claiborne offices. “We cleared out the showroom during market week, found artists to craft these beautiful hearts that we auctioned off, recruited a few celebrities, served soda, wine, cheese, and crackers, charged $10 a person, and hosted about 500 people. It was amazing: all the retailers came. (This was back when there were lots of retailers!)

We raised $12,500 that first year and we were thrilled. Fifteen years later, we’ve raised more than $11 million, and the event is attended by celebrities, sports stars, doctors, government Continued on page 20 >

‘‘M

CEO Eric Wiseman on VF’s Missions and Moves

our essential corporate strategy, which we’ve shared with investors, involves leading in innovation, creating and growing lifestyle brands, serving consumers directly, and discovering more opportunities internationally.

“To these intrinsic goals, we’ve recently added a few more: 1) To improve how we connect with consumers digitally. We realize the window to our brands is held in the palm of their hands. 2) To enhance the way we use consumer analytics in order to become leaders in that space. 3) To become the leader in sustainability and responsible sourcing, which takes much effort and results in a

16

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

degree of vulnerability.

Obviously much of what we do has positive and negative ramifications (e.g. any given chemical has both good and bad effects) and, because we’re so transparent about our actions, this information can be used against us.

“That said, we firmly believe in helping the communities where we source, whether the workers are employed by us or by a contractor we use. All of these workers and their families deserve access to clean water, to good nutrition, to health

care, to education. Our VF Initiatives Through Responsible Sourcing has been able to help families around the world with numerous programs ranging from mobile health facilities to financial consulting. We’ve redefined what it means to source responsibly; it’s clearly the right thing to do.

“We were a $3 to $4 billion company when I came on board; 20 years later we’re a $30 billion company. Hopefully, when we lead with these types of proactive initiatives, it inspires other companies to do the same.”

MACY’S AND BLOOMINGDALE’S are proud to congratulate

KAREN MURRAY AS MR MAGAZINE’S

PERSON OF THE YEAR

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR }

Getting Personal Karen Murray tells all...

Husband: Harry Steinmetz, married five

Kenny Loggins

years. (“We were fixed up for a lunch date and didn’t click; five years later we were fixed up and totally clicked, although I didn’t even remember that first date.”)

Children and stepchildren: Michael, Marissa, Leah, Ethan, Patrick, Erin, Colleen, and Maureen: “I love them all!”

Morning routine: 15 minutes of TV (Charlie Gibson on ABC), 20 minutes of meditation, shower, dress, run out the door.

Breakfast: In office—yogurt parfait and coffee.

Exercise routine: Mostly walking to work (78th St. to 57th St.) but sometimes a workout with a trainer.

Favorite movie: One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest Favorite reads: Mindless romance novels, parenting books, business books.

Reading now: The Parallel Process in Parenting Favorite TV Shows: The Voice, Family Feud Favorite music: Hall & Oates, Elton John,

Spendido Hotel. “Actually anywhere in Italy: Tuscany, Siena, Como… But a close second is Marbella, Spain: more casual, and the golf is great!”

Passions: “My family, my friends, my career (product, merchandising, sales), my fundraising, helping families deal with Marfans and related disorders, mentoring YMA interns, shopping for vintage fashion.”

Favorite sport: Golf. “Someone once told me that it takes five years to get bad. I’m in my fifth year and I think I’m finally bad…”

Hair secret: Oscar Blandi for both color and cut.

Shopping secrets: Diane B for shoes (fabulous knock-offs of Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, etc.); Second Time Around for vintage clothes.

Favorite expression: At the end of the day…

Favorite NYC restaurant: Due, for linguini with white clam sauce.

18

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

Favorite vacation spots: Portofino,

What she’s never without: A hair clip, lipstick.

Prized possessions: “From my husband, my engagement ring and my pearls.”

Mentor: “Eric Wiseman, who taught me that gut instinct is good but facts are better.”

A good day: “When my son answers my text right away.”

A perfect day: “Waking up on weekends, exercising, going for hair, nails, and massage, dinner with my husband, my parents and any combination of kids (and my son answers my text right away…).”

Pet peeve: “When I’m engaged in meaningful conversation and don’t get eye contact.”

Fatal flaw: “I’m not perfectly organized (some definite ADD which is why I surround myself with great people…). And I obviously spend too much money on clothes, shoes and handbags…”

What would surprise people to learn about you: “Probably nothing. I’m an open book.”

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR }

Kipling, VF’s fastest growing brand for the past two years, is our happy brand.

It’s ‘bags and lifestyle accessories to lighten your day.’” officials and so many other caring people.”

In retrospect, Murray confides, her involvement with Marfans has impacted her life beyond raising money and awareness. “I try not to sweat the small stuff. (My team

a tremendous passion for music. He leads a full life that he’s created for himself on his own terms. It makes me realize that Marfan Syndrome has defined me more than it has him.”

Her continuing commitment to Marfans has certainly de-

says I’m always the calm in the storm.) I now look at what a person can do, rather than what he can’t. I understand in my core that every day is precious, and I’m clearly a more compassionate person because of my struggles. I have immediate empathy for anyone with a medical challenge. And I have tremendous appreciation for my friends and family who continue to support me.”

Most of all, she is “incredibly proud” of her son Michael who, thanks to open heart surgery at age 14 and amazing doctors, is currently doing well in college, and in life. “Last month, after all these years, he finally let me friend him on Facebook and it’s so gratifying for me to see photos from the past 10 years of his life. He has tons of great friends who support him; he’s extremely social. He’s a guitarist and a composer with

fined her, but so has her leadership/mentoring role in the menswear industry, and at VF, where she is president of the Nautica and Kipling brands. “The biggest challenge to brands these days is retail consolidation—we now have far fewer partners with whom to build the business, so we need to build beyond the wholesale channel.

“At Nautica, we will continue to have a significant wholesale business dominated by Macy’s and a few other strong partners: Lord & Taylor, Bon-Ton, Belk, Dillard’s, DXL. As the collection gets upgraded and updated, this business is healthy and growing. We are focused on elevating design, adding iconic pieces, and building full-price retail in the U.S. Our goal is to change consumer perception here in the States to what it is internationally.”

Continued on page 24 >

Welcome to Holland I

am often asked to describe the experience of raising a child with a disability—to try to help people who have not shared that unique experience to understand it, to imagine how it would feel. It’s like this...

When you’re going to have a baby, it’s like planning a fabulous vacation trip—to Italy. You buy a bunch of guide books and make your wonderful plans. The Coliseum. The Michelangelo David. The gondolas in Venice. You may learn some handy phrases in Italian. It’s all very exciting.

After months of eager anticipation, the day finally arrives. You pack your bags and off you go. Several hours later, the plane lands. The stewardess comes in

20

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

and says, “Welcome to Holland.” “Holland?” you say.

“What do you mean Holland? I signed up for Italy!

I’m supposed to be in Italy. All my life I’ve dreamed of going to Italy.” But there’s been a change in the flight plan. They’ve landed in Holland and there you must stay. The important thing is that they haven’t taken you to a horrible, disgusting, filthy place, full of pestilence, famine and disease. It’s just a different place. So you must go out and buy new guide books.

And you must learn a whole new language. And you will meet a whole new group of people you would never have met. It’s just a different place. It’s slowerpaced than Italy, less flashy than Italy. But after you’ve been there for a while and you catch your

breath, you look around... and you begin to notice that Holland has windmills... and Holland has tulips.

Holland even has Rembrandts.

But everyone you know is busy coming and going from Italy... and they’re all bragging about what a wonderful time they had there. And for the rest of your life, you will say “Yes, that’s where I was supposed to go. That’s what I had planned.” And the pain of that will never, ever, ever, ever go away... because the loss of that dream is a very very significant loss. But... if you spend your life mourning the fact that you didn’t get to Italy, you may never be free to enjoy the very special, the very lovely things... about Holland.

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

Karen Murray’s favorite poem. By Emily Perl Kingsley, 1987

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR }

S

ince Karen Murray is known for her sense of style (and her spectacular vintage dresses at Marfans galas) and since we began our interview at breakfast in her Upper East Side apartment, we asked if we could peek into her closet.

Although somewhat embarrassed, she reluctantly agreed.

A closet to end all closets (the size of a bedroom with spectacular views of the NYC skyline), each outfit (most with some sort of nautical tie-in; navy is her black!) is hung with coordinating accessories.

Knit tops are folded and arranged by color (whites to ivories to creams etc.) and shoes (more than 100 pairs) take up an entire wall (with piles of boxes on the floor for “shoes in waiting” that have not yet found space on the shoe wall). We won’t even talk about the jewelry or the handbags or the additional closet in her Nautica office, but trust us: this is a lady who embraces fashion!

“Actually,” she insists, “I’m a good shopper. I grew up at Loehmann’s so for me, it’s not necessarily about spending a ton of money. I shop everywhere, from consignment shops to vintage stores to fastfashion chains like Zara and T.J.Maxx. Of course I have my splurge stores where I buy a few great pieces

22

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

each season (I bought this blazer in three colors because I loved the fit) but I recycle everything, which is how I rationalize spending too much. My key stores are Shari’s for expensive outfits, Diane B. for shoes (Craig, my fabulous sales guy, brings out every navy shoe he has in my size and he’s even had shoes made for me in Italy…), Penny Pincher (in Bedford, NY) and Second Time Around for special vintage pieces.

“True story: when recently shopping in Portofino, I saw this fabulous camel cashmere coat with a sable collar that I just had to have, but with such a ridiculous price tag, I couldn’t do it. But the next time I went into Penny Pincher to recycle some clothes, I noticed this plastic garbage bag filled with clothes that was just dropped off by a famous actress. I asked if there might be coats in there so the sales associate dumped out the entire contents of the bag and pulled out a gorgeous camel cashmere coat with a sable collar that fit me like a glove. It was so similar to what I’d been dreaming about but at a fraction of the price, so I bought it on the spot!”

Editor’s note: Please don’t mention, when you see Karen in her spectacular camel cashmere coat this winter, that you read in MR magazine that she discovered it in a plastic garbage bag… KAG

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

Closet Case

© 2 01 5 C O T Y U S L L C

NAUTICA.COM

COTY CONGRATULATES KAREN MURRAY ON BEING NAMED MR MAGAZINE’S PERSON OF THE YEAR

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR }

FAMILY FIRST: Karen Murray with her parents, Bert and Joe Rayman; with her son, Michael Murray; and with her husband, Harry Steinmetz (for whom she took up golf!)

My mom is a unique person with a special giving heart. Every gesture she makes comes from genuine kindness. Her strong sense of empathy is what drives her. She’s extraordinarily resilient and, as a mother, she does so much to help me and make me happy. All she asks back is a once-a-day text.”

—Michael Murray Toward that end, 2016 will mark the opening of full-price Nautica stores in the U.S.: first in Miami (Collins Ave. in South Beach) and then in Manhattan (Flatiron, with a preview pop-up shop this holiday). “Although this is a big shift for us in the States, direct-to-consumer is already a major factor internationally,” she notes. “Few people realize that we have 244 full-price stores outside the U.S. We’re one of the top men’s collections in Mexico, in Latin America and in Israel (there’s virtually no one without a Nautica Deck Shirt in Israel…) and we’re a significant brand in Asia. Throughout the world, retail price points are at least double what they are here!”

Murray explains how VF has built powerhouse brands based on consumer insights. “Our top three brands (Timberland, Vans, The North Face) have established strong emotional ties with their consumers. Steve

24

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

Rendle, VF’s new president, has always believed in the power of analytics and an unrelenting focus on the consumer. So from day one, he advocated implementing the consumer segmentation process for Nautica.

Based on this research, we now have a “Where to Play-How to Win” strategy to determine which channels we want to play in and how to lead in those channels.

“We selected ‘the Style Captain’ as our target shopper: a customer with more fashion savvy than the traditional customer. Nautica is the only brand in the market with the street cred to be nautical 365 days a year and the only nautical brand founded and designed in NYC, which gives us an edge. We learned that style trumps water and performance for our target customers, so while we incorporate performance elements into the collection, it’s more about fashion. For example, we now use

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR }

I’m a gut merchant at my core and sometimes make quick decisions based on intuition. Eric taught me early on that VF makes decisions based on consumer insights, facts and data.” black, tan, and neutrals done in a nautical way rather than just brights.

Everything we do is supportive of our brand DNA (‘inspired by the sea, designed in the city’) and we’re finding our ‘how to win’ in every channel we compete in.” lements of Nautica’s repositioning strategy include raising AURs, expanding offerings (in outerwear, sportcoats, high-end fabrics, completer pieces) and more frequent and differentiated deliveries (monthly, so there’s reason for shoppers to pay regular price for new receipts). “We’re already seeing great results in our own stores. We now have a true ‘good, better, best’ architecture that we did-

E

better. So we came up with a totally different model that’s been working really well. Once again, it works because Karen is so smart and so driven, and I can always count on her to figure it out and make it successful for both sides.”

Having grown up in sales, Murray admits she’s often hard on her sales team. For example, it makes her crazy if the Nautica mix on a store’s selling floor is not quite right. She recently had a conversation with a sales rep about allowing DXL to buy too many key item T-shirts in a Nautica mix that was otherwise upscale and beautiful. “Just because a guy is big doesn’t mean he wants to wear a huge graphic fish on his back!” she insists. “We work so hard upgrading the product and creat-

n’t have previously: good is our outlet and off-price business; better is ing more sophisticated looks; we need to ensure that the taste level is Macy’s and other wholesale partners; best is our full-price stores, our right to inspire guys to dress better.” online, our international, and some better specialty stores. (Each tier Equally tough on her design team, she recently discovered a few has its own label: white with navy letters for good, navy with cream for shirts on a selling floor that were not up to her impeccable standards. better, and navy/black in a finer font for best.) We’re working on more “Just look at the difference between these shirts, both ticketed at strategic buys and positioning in our better channel, and we’re part$69.50,” she exclaims, shoving two shirts in front of me. “This is a gornering with department stores to get our product presented with maxgeous woven with a carbon peach finish. Just feel the soft hand on it. But imum impact in prime locations.” look at the stitching: it’s white when it should match the shirt and there Macy’s, in particular, is in the process of testing new ways to buy are 10 stitches per inch when it should be 20. Who made these decisions and present Nautica product, working with VF to create a more upscale, and why didn’t someone in the factory (that we’ve been using for 30 more lifestyle-oriented, more regular-price business. Macy’s’ president years) question it? I train and work closely with the design team, so this Jeff Gennette credits Murray for many of the changes they are making kind of stuff makes me crazy...” on their selling floors. “About six months ago, she came to me with a Obviously, it’s this kind of attention to detail that makes her so suggestion for clearing out markdowns. She described how her mother good, although she gives much credit to VF CEO Eric Wiseman. “I’ve had been in a Macy’s store and picked out a Nautica jacket marked down learned to be a much better leader by watching Eric inspire, motivate, to $75, which she was prepared to pay. But since the sale sign had fallen and deal genuinely with people. I tend to make decisions quickly based off the clearance rack, she had no idea until she got to the register that on intuition and gut feeling, but Eric told me from day one (actually the actual price (with her coupon) was $29. Karen pointed out the abit was during my interview) two important things: 1) that VF is a comsurdity of this situation and suggested another way to do it without the pany that doesn’t use the word ‘I’. It’s always ‘we’ and it’s always about coupons and multiple discounts. We tried it in four different districts the team because it takes a team to build a brand; and 2) that VF with all of our third markdowns and it’s been makes decisions based on research and so successful that we’re about to do it in the consumer insights and he needs me to emBREAKDOWN same four districts with second markdowns. brace that. He told me, ‘I appreciate that OF NAUTICA BUSINESS And that’s what Karen consistently brings to your batting average is high, but it could be the table: ideas for building a better mouseeven higher if you’d base decisions on facts trap, always with total transparency and and data rather than intuition. Our team 50% wholesale trust. will help you do this.’

“Another example is a new economic “And they have. VF has spent millions of model that she suggested and we recently imdollars on consumer research: interviewing plemented. She’d been questioning the nu15,000 consumers, going into their closets, merous stages it takes to bring in fresh goods: doing focus groups, and more. So I have no 25% international pre-line, approval, walk through with buyer, doubt, based on this focus, that our current with the DMM, with the chief merchant; the decisions will build Nautica into a bigger process took forever! Karen suggested that if and more successful brand than it is today.

25% direct to consumer we were to let the vendor take over, based of I’m so grateful to be part of it, and to be (full-price stores, outlets, and e-commerce) course on buyer input, results would be doing what I love at a company I love.”

MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

25

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR }

Industry Accolades Those who love her tell us why.

Karen is an awesome player in the retail world. I love collaborating with her in building both of our businesses. She’s a great listener, and always responds to our needs with an action plan to build our Nautica business. Over the last several years, Karen has continued to elevate Nautica as a premier global brand. Our customers love the fashion sensibility she has brought to the brand.

“Most importantly, what she has done to bring awareness to Marfan Syndrome is absolutely incredible. It is such a commitment of time and energy, yet she keeps raising the bar every year.

“Like everyone else who works with her, I love, love, love Karen Murray.”

David Levin, chairman, DXL Stores Karen is pure class: she represents what we all would like to be.

In business, she’s well regarded as someone who knows what she’s doing and someone with great integrity.

“When she walks into a room, you know a lady has entered.”

Ronny Wurtzburger, president, Peerless Clothing

Karen is an outstanding leader. She is not only a great businesswoman, friend, and mother, but she is also a powerful example to all of how each of us can truly make a difference. I remember going to the first fundraiser for Marfans as a small cocktail reception in her showroom (then The Marfan Artists Project) many years ago; today this annual gala has raised millions of dollars. Karen is truly an exceptional individual in our industry.”

Liz Rodbell, president, Husdon’s Bay-Lord & Taylor Karen is a great person in business, and in her ability to make a difference with charitable causes. She is strategic in her business outlook, never afraid to adjust direction with the tides of change.

She’s been a great partner throughout the years, always maintaining a positive outlook, and often with a sense of humor. She is very deserving to be MR’s Person of the Year.

David Zant, president, Belk Stores

congratulations

PERSON OF THE YEAR! KAREN MURRAY

President of Sportswear at VF Corporation Smart. Dedicated. A builder of relationships.

Karen Murray is all of these things and more.

Recognized as one of the top executives in the retail business, Karen is literally changing the face of the industry. A heartfelt congratulations from all of us at Stage – thanks for the partnership! shop our family of stores – stagestores.com

26

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

TM

CONGRATULATIONS

Nautica's KAREN MURRAY, on being named MR’s PERSON OF THE YEAR We applaud you for all your tremendous work in the industry, as well as for the Marfan Foundation.

Thank you for your outstanding leadership throughout the Nautica and Global Brands Group long-standing partnership.

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR } Karen is a true treasure in our industry, a talented executive who also makes a meaningful difference in the lives of others.

She is not only a great merchant and ambassador for her brand, but she inspires all around her with her passion for business and her dedication to a cause larger than herself.

While we all admire her myriad professional accomplishments, what makes her truly special is the way she juxtaposes all of this with her commitment to her family and to those less fortunate. I join all of Karen’s friends in celebrating this most-deserved recognition as MR’s Person of the Year!

Paul Rosengard, CEO, DDK I’ve worked with her for eight years at VF and I’ve come to truly appreciate her unique combination of talents. She’s smart; she knows how to make money and how to build a brand. She’s creative, with extensive knowledge of the industry. She’s warm, funny, and genuine. She’s filled with energy and passion: when you’re with her, you can virtually feel her spirit and her warmth.

“We often talk at VF about three different learning styles: visual, aural, and kinesthetic.

Karen is all about the touch and feel: it informs her judgment on everything. Yet she’s adopted many of the more scientific findings (market segmentation, etc.) that VF has been researching and, thanks to her keen intuition, she knows how to use them most effectively.

“In terms of a negative, all I can come up with is that her passion might sometimes make her seem overly emotional. But this is a misperception. In fact, it’s her deep feelings and empathy for others (a huge driver of success in the workplace) that make her such a strong manager and leader.” Stephen Dull, head of corporate strategy and innovation, VF I met Karen 15 years ago through a mutual friend. I was VP at the American Heart Association, she was working on Marfans, and we volunteered at each other’s organizations. She is the most generous person I know: she is the reason for the Marfan Foundation and I’m convinced a key reason for the success of the AHA’s Go Red Movement. It could never have grown to its cur-

rent stature without her.

“Simply put, Karen Murray is a remarkable force. I’ve been amazed that as a volunteer at the American Heart Association, she did so much for so many in what seemed like an effortless way. At a recent conference in Chicago, a young mother came up to me and asked to meet her, saying that had she not seen Karen’s interview in The Wall Street Journal, she would never have known her child had Marfan Syndrome. This child, like countless others, is alive because of Karen Murray.”

Mike Weamer, CEO, Marfan Foundation I have a long history with Karen Murray. No one else in our industry has as strong a track record of developing businesses, developing brands, developing teams, developing leaders in a way that engenders such good will and good faith.

“It’s interesting: in the early days when I worked with Karen, I was the men’s collections DMM at Macy’s West and she was part of a Claiborne triumvirate with Karen Castellano and Helaine Goldberg. Those two were

CONGRATULATIONS TO

KAREN MURRAY MR MAGAZINE’S PERSON OF THE YEAR

2015

BEST WISHES FROM

YOUR FRIENDS AT

28

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

CONGRATULATIONS KAREN MURRAY PERSON OF THE YEAR

BELK JOINS MR MAGAZINE IN SALUTING KAREN FOR HER ACCOMPLISHMENTS IN THE RETAIL INDUSTRY AND HER DEDICATION TO THE MARFAN FOUNDATION

NAUTICA

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR } rocketships at the time, while Karen stayed more in the background.

But she was sensational at clean-up: studying the order, weighing in on the buy, always finding one or two things that we should reconsider. She’s an amazing merchant with a real feel for the consumer. I love working with her because she’s wildly competitive: If she suspects her competition is doing a better job at something, it drives her crazy and revs her up. She will always find a way to make it work.

“I’d describe her as a velvet hammer: lovely with tremendous charm but wickedly aggressive. She can work at 30,000 feet or at five feet; she can talk about her brands but she can talk just as fluently about other brands. She’s well versed on all the intricacies of department store business, from markdown budgets to service to marketing to capital expenditures. She always gets the most out of her sell-ins— for VF and for the retailer—which is why I always listen when she speaks.” Jeff Gennette, president, Macy’s

sacrilegious but she wanted to cut back on cotton pique polos and add performance fabrics at higher price points (about $10 more at retail).

It was a huge risk but she felt strongly that if we didn’t do something different, we’d lose. Bottom line: it was a runaway success, the launch of our fabulous Deck Shirts. I personally wouldn’t have risked it; we were a traditional classic brand. But that’s what makes Karen so amazing: If she believes in something, even at the 11th hour, she figures out how to make it work. I learn something new from her every day.” Electa Varnish, senior VP of sales, Nautica

Among her many wonderful attributes—great business acumen, unbelievable energy, tremendous intuition—what I love most about Karen is that she doesn’t waver: once she decides on something,

Karen Murray is the perfect choice for MR’s Person of the Year: she’s both a talented executive and a great human being. I’ve worked with her for many years when I was at Belk Stores and now at Bon-Ton: she balances a strong business mind with a great sense of fashion. At Nautica, she’s navigating an iconic brand with many big competitors and she’s managed to make it fresh and relevant.

“I think she’s an amazing woman, juggling a high-powered business career with family and philanthropy, and with so much positive energy.” Kathy Bufano, president, Bon-Ton Stores

she goes after it, rallies the troops, and we get it done. She’s made some pretty bold decisions over the years and nine times out of 10, she’s right on the money.

“For example, a few years ago she was studying our mix in knit shirts and she counted 41 different short-sleeve models that looked virtually the same. She called us in and asked why we needed so many similar all-cotton pique knits. At the time, synthetics were considered

Karen’s most exceptional asset is that she cares deeply about everything she does and she brings that attitude of commitment to both her personal and professional life. I’ve worked with her as a colleague and as a boss and I’m constantly impressed by her intense passion, her willingness to learn, her merchandising expertise, her deep knowledge of retailing (and the tremendous respect she’s earned

Congratulations on being selected as MR Magazine’s Person of the Year 2015

30

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

BURLINGTON CONGR ATUL ATES

K AREN MURR AY OF NAUTICA

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR } from her retail partners). She has strong opinions on both product and presentation but she’s very open to new ways of looking at things.

“Especially now. As a competitive executive who wants her brands to win, she’s been very receptive to the recent strategic work VF has been doing with our Where to Play-How to Win initiative. It’s not only enlightened her as a leader but has helped her unlock the

potential of her team as she helps them grow into leadership roles. Karen has always been a very hands-on manager, but I’ve seen a change these past 12 months to where she’s modifying her management style and encouraging her people to make the important decisions. We believe that creating future leaders by maintaining a deep bench of talent is a core competency here at VF and Karen is clearly becoming that type of manager.

“Bottom line, Karen is a lovely, caring, compassionate individual who’s a true expert and leader in her field. I have the deepest respect for her.” Steve Rendle, president, VF When I started at Liz, Karen was VP of sales and for the next 12 years, she climbed the corporate ladder to become president of the men’s division and group executive. She was a key player for many reasons: she’s smart; she’s a wonderful human being with great virtues and values; she’s dealt aggressively but sensitively with her son’s situation; and she’s one of the best sales-oriented managers in the industry.

“In fact, she’s outstanding not just at selling but also at building meaningful relationships with her retail partners. Even when there are problems, she’s able to make the tough decisions without jeopardizing the relationship. What’s more, she has the ability to engage, attract, and motivate people: she’s got more exuberance than anyone I know.”

Paul Charron, former chairman, Liz Claiborne

KAREN MURRAY OF NAUTICA ON BEING NAMED

MR MAGAZINE’S PERSON OF THE YEAR Your friends at The Bon-Ton Stores salute you for your inspiring dedication to Nautica and for your generous support of The Marfan Foundation.

bonton.com

I met Karen when she first came to VF—I was in flux about my career path; we immediately bonded and she’s the reason I stayed at Nautica. I feel lucky to work with someone so selfless, compassionate, and dedicated to helping improve people’s lives. She challenges and inspires me to be not just a better business executive but also a better person.

“As a manager, her style is direct, candid, approachable, and real, which was tough for me at first since I’m essentially a private person. But I learned from watching Karen that by opening up personally and revealing a little of yourself, you make people feel more comfortable. In Karen’s case, by being open and real, she makes people want to work with her and for her. She’s just so likeable!”

Nina Flood, VP, marketing and strategy, Nautica There’s a wonderfully positive vibe about Karen; everyone wants to be in the same room with her.”

Colleen Kelly, CEO, Kay Unger I am in awe of everything she does.”

Karen Greenberg, president, Calvin Klein Sportswear

32

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

Ross Stores Inc. is Proud to Congratulate

KAREN MURRAY

Person of the Year

MR THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE From your friends at

{ PERSON OF THE YEAR }

Karen Murray is a rare breed. With all that she has going on personally and professionally, she always has time for a friend or colleague. She is warm and compassionate and becomes good friends with many of those she does business with. At the same time she is able to be a tough yet fair business partner.

“Karen has a fantastic sense of humor. No matter how much stress we were under at Claiborne (and at times there was much) we were always able to diffuse it. We laughed like heck and that release enabled us to face any challenge with vigor!” Karen Castellano, EVP, sales, merchandising, and planning, NYDJ I first met Karen Murray when I was president of Burdines (now Macy’s) and she was running Claiborne for men. She took them from a little start-up division of a women’s company to a major menswear brand on a par with Ralph and Tommy.

“Her strength is clearly merchandising: she understands the consumer—not just where he is but where he’s going. She’s a great strategist, and she knows how to build a team. But it’s not just business acumen; it’s a lot of personal charm and commitment. She’s outstanding with people, and very charismatic.

What she’s done with her Marfans organization is nothing short of amazing. When you think of what she’s accomplished—creating awareness, raising money, saving lives—it’s awe-inspiring. And she somehow balances this with her work and her family, and always with a smile.” Howard Socol, mentor for new designers, former CEO of Burdines and Barneys Karen Murray is an excellent choice for MR’s Person of the Year—and an easy subject to talk about.

First of all, when it comes to menswear, she’s the expert: she has spent her entire career in that space; she literally lives it. No one knows the menswear business, and department store retailing, better than Karen Murray.

“Second, she has tremendous mental agility, an essential attribute of a great leader. She has the willingness and the ability to constantly learn new things. For example, here at VF we are immersed in our consumer insight approach to business. This involves implementing global segmentation studies and devising unique brand architectures based on points of difference and parity. All of this was new to Karen but she’s truly embraced it in order to make her business better. She’s constantly using new tools; I love seeing that in our people.

“Third, she is a caring leader: she cares deeply about her business, about her people, about her family. When you find someone with all three of these attributes—business expertise, mental agility, and compassion—people instinctively follow her, they want to work hard for her. Karen is incredibly well-liked and well-respected by all.

“You really want me to give you a negative? Okay, here’s a legitimate one: compared to MR’s two previous Person of the Year honorees (PVH’s Manny Chirico and Macy’s Terry Lundgren), she’s nowhere near in their league when it comes to golf. “ Eric Wiseman, CEO, VF The only negative I can come up with about Karen is that she’s not a great cook. But since cooking is my passion, she doesn’t have to be.” Harry Steinmetz, husband

34

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

MR Special Section November 2015

MADE IN AMERICA The Return of American Manufacturing

After decades of decline in domestic manufacturing, American-made goods are gaining ground, thanks to the dedication and craftsmanship of talented artisans who put their hearts and souls into the garments they produce. And a new generation of consumers is loving them.

{ MADE IN AMERICA }

LET’S GET DOMESTIC How the American garment industry is slowly stitching itself back together.

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY For a while, American-made menswear lost its mojo. As large textile mills and factories emerged in developing countries like China, their American counterparts couldn’t compete. Domestic mills and factories folded, and with them, so did their histories, heritage, and craftsmanship. By the early 1980s, big retail chains like Gap Inc. and JCPenney had transitioned much of their manufacturing overseas.

With the notable exception of Prep, the stylish set turned their attentions to Europe. “In the ’50s and ’60s, we were at an apex of American style and design, but through the ’70s and ’80s, the Italians really took over,” laments Jacob Long, CEO of American Woolens. “Go back to the Italian advertisements of the 1970s: they were about conjuring up this idea of sophistication; we were conjuring up this imagery of convenience. The apparel companies did a lot of disservice by not focusing on what American style was about.”

As the years progressed, it didn’t help that international trade agreements continued to draw manufacturers away from the U.S. “With the North American Trade Agreement in 1994, we opened up a new facility in Mexico and rerouted all our apparel business there,” says Pete Baumann, senior vice president at Burlington Industries. “It’s only been recently that we decided to reinvigorate our tailored clothing business with products manufactured in our Raeford, North Carolina facility.”

Ironically, the revival of the American garment industry was sparked by the 2008 recession. After that economic downturn, heritage brands like Woolrich, Filson and Pendleton began to find favor with a generation whose patriotism was fueled in part by austerity. “We saw the American male revert back to a simpler, more comfort-oriented American value-based taste level,” explains Mort Bishop, president of Pendleton Woolen Mills. “Brands that he was familiar with, through his father or his grandfather, created a

36

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

resurgence in interest in Pendleton. Millennials today are fascinated with authenticity and I think that’s because so much in their world is not authentic. So when they find an authentic brand they become very loyal.”

“Authenticity has become very important to the Millennial consumer,” agrees Kara Nicholas, VP of design and marketing at Cone Denim. “We have these beautiful historical looms, and the selvedge denim they produce has become recognized and celebrated on a global scale. “ What exactly makes something “authentic” is debatable, but there is something undeniably inauthentic about a “Made in China” label sewn in a sweater by an American company. “We think there’s big value in Made in the USA,” says Baumann. “We want to hit the high end of our business, to sell to people like Polo, Hickey Freeman, Brooks Brothers, Southwick, and to customers who would normally buy Italian goods. We’re concentrating on 110s and mostly 120s to appeal to a better tailored market than our replenishment product in Mexico does.”

Right now, the premium business is where Made in America can best compete. “If you want to go after low retail cost/commodity products, you're going to go offshore because the inputs are so inexpensive,” says W Diamond Group CEO Douglas Williams. “But when you're talking about high-quality garments, the U.S. has a competitive advantage with programs like the Tariff Rate Quota license and the Wool Trust program. You're able to bring fabrics into the United States fundamentally duty free, you’re not paying duty on labor, plus speed to market is 30 to 40 days faster.”

Another competitive advantage is quality control. “When you're selling a high-quality, specialized garment it’s ideal to be close to the factory and the wash houses to make sure everything is done correctly,” explains Jeff Shafer, founder of Agave Denim. “That doesn't mean that other countries couldn’t do a good job, but having 24/7 access to the sewing and design houses and

“Millennials today are fascinated with authenticity and I think that’s because so much in their world is not authentic. So when they find an authentic brand they become very loyal.” – Mort Bishop, president, Pendleton Wool Mills laundries in Los Angeles and Woodstock is a huge strategic asset.”

There are also ethical and integrity issues to consider. “Many factories in developing countries don’t have strict rules on things like minimum age, overtime, health care, and working conditions,” points out Shafer. David Hart, who manufactures in New York, makes a similar point. “I make in New York because of the relationships I can have with my factories. It's great to have a personal relationship with the workers and know that they are being treated well.” espite all this industry movement, the real barometer of the success

D

of Made in America will be the customer. And the jury is still out on that, say retailers. “Everyone loves the idea of Made in America,” says Macy’s VP, fashion director Durand Guion. “But I still find that mass customers aren't willing to take on the extra price point. As more manufacturing returns to the U.S. and we learn how to be competitive in a new retail landscape that is more price-sensitive than ever, then I think it will be a great story.”

“As a retailer and as a New York-based brand, of course we want to support manufacture in our backyard, so it's absolutely on my radar. I'm looking at it very closely,” says Eric Jennings, VP, fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue.

“The honest truth is that right now when I go in to see a new collection, for better or for worse, I can tell if it's made in New York. It has a certain hand, a stitch; I can always tell.

Is it the best out there? Not always, so there' s work to be done. But at a recent in-store event for some of our emerging young designers, as I was presenting Timo Weiland I mentioned that the clothes were made in New York and the audience applauded, so I know the appreciation is there.”

Fortunately, this piquing of consumer interest has given rise to new programs by the CFDA, the AAFA, and Manufacture NY to aid the cause. “Manufacturers, especially those in the garment district, are faced with their rents tripling, or even just being kicked out entirely,” explains Manufacture NY founder and CEO Bob Bland. “In 2012, Made in America was just coming up as something of interest to the fashion industry. Up until that time no one had seen the value of bringing

products back home because the prices overseas are so much cheaper,” she says. “Initially, we started a Garment Center pilot program: a supportive environment for designers with a shared industrial sewing room with all the different specialty machines and tables and everything they would need to produce their collections, like computers fully loaded with all the software they would need, front-desk reception services, conference room, showroom, and onsite production of patterns and sample making. That pilot program ran from 2013 to the end of 2014, when we moved to Liberty View Industrial Plaza in Sunset Park. Now we're building out in partnerships with the NYC Economic Development Corporation and City Hall.”

After all, more than just American pride is at stake. “The fashion industry accounts for 5.5 percent of the city’s workforce and generates billions of dollars in tax revenue annually,” says Christopher Carrolls, public affairs associate at the NYC Economic Development Corporation. “The city is committed to supporting this legacy industry by creating programs that are designed to assist local manufacturers and designers in addressing the challenges that are associated with growing businesses in the City, from helping develop marketing strategies and business plans to helping finance the acquisition of equipment or training a workforce.”

These initiatives, coupled with an increased awareness of the benefits of domestic production from both logistical and broader economic perspectives, are defintely spurring the industry’s growth. “Apparel and footwear contributed a record $361 billion to the U.S. economy last year, a bigger contribution than new cars, alcohol, toys, or practically any other industry,” explains AFAA president and CEO Juanita Duggan. “The rebound in Made in America clothes and shoes, first seen in 2011, has risen 6.2 percent and 8.5 percent respectively.”

That increase is substantial, and projections for this year look even better than the last. It looks like those that have put down roots at home are well positioned for the future.

FROMTOP TO BOTTOM: Two looks from David Hart’s S/S ‘16 collection; a vintage advertisement from Cone Denim.

MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

37

MADEINAMERICA PROMOTION

RARE ESSENTIALS Trafalgar accessories are both refined and adventurous.

Trafalagar prides itself on setting the highest standards when it comes to designing its products, paying close attention to every detail for both materials and craftsmanship while offering an incredible value. Whether it’s the company’s limitededition braces and suspenders or genuine exotic belts and wallets, quality is Trafalgar’s benchmark.

The history of Trafalgar’s exquisite limited-edition braces dates back to the early 1970s, when the first braces were introduced and quickly drew a loyal following. Many of the designs, artistic and whimsical in nature, have become true collector items. Each pair of limited-edition braces is numbered, as only a few hundred of each style is produced. These limited-edition braces are woven from the finest denier silk yarns and were originally created on 200-year-old refurbished wooden looms.

This collection of limited-edition men’s braces is designed in-house by one of the company’s senior designers, Erin Langon.

She joined Trafalgar four years ago and quickly displayed her talent for designing the limited-edition braces. Whether she was being inspired by her grandfather’s postage stamp collection (which became the “Stamp of Approval” brace) or an elaborate clock collection owned by Trafalgar’s Frank Domotor (which led to the “Tempis Fugit” style), Langon has developed a true knack for creating something special. Recent events are also used for inspiration, including the “Boardwalk” brace collection which paid respect to the dedicated people who helped to rebuild the New Jersey shore after the devastation from Superstorm Sandy.

Each limited-edition brace brings the wearer years of enjoyment with its high level of craftsmanship.

Traflagar’s exotic skins and belts are just as special as the braces. They are all custom-dyed and finished to Trafalgar’s specifications, ensuring the highest quality for its belts.

38

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

The classic American alligator belt, which the company is most known for, is available in five colors with an exceptional 14K gold and rhodium buckle, each hand-polished and produced here in the U.S. The company’s exotic belt collection also features a broad spectrum of looks to complement any wearing occasion, from formal and classic looks to chino and denim attire. Interestingly, all of the buckles can be removed from these belts, allowing the wearer to choose one’s own buckle.

One of Trafalgar’s signature items is a genuine exotic alligator wallet. Each one is handmade with the highest level of accuracy by its artisans in the U.S. The skins are all hand-polished to perfection, creating a luster and brilliance that speaks for itself. Designed with a vision for timeless American style, Trafalgar’s exotic leather collection sports both a refined haberdashery sensibility and an adventurous spirit.

Trafalgar’s men’s accessories can be found in better men’s specialty stores such as Boyd’s, Mitchells, Perlis, Patrick James, J.S. Edwards, and Harry Rosen, as well as Barneys, Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue.

For more information on Trafalgar, please contact: Customer service 800-223-0975 cstrafalgar@tgleather.com

made in america All featured styles made in the USA From left to right: Limited Edition Sideshow Brace, Newington Crocodile Belt, Alligator Slim Card Case, Hamden Leather Dress Belt, Richmond Stripe Silk Brace E cstrafalgar @tgleather.com • T (800)223-0975 A DIVISION OF

MADEINAMERICA PROMOTION

METROPOLITAN STYLE American Woolen Company’s mission to bring back the American suit.

American Woolen Company is a prominent name in the story of American textiles s. As the leading producer of worsted and woolen cloth at the beginning of the 20th century, American Woolen Company owned and operated 58 textile mills throughout New England and employed over 40,000 people. The company was recognized for its superior product quality as well as its focus on innovative manufacturing processes, a distinction that helped it maintain a competitive edge in an extremely challenging industry.

Since 2014 Warren Mills, located in Stafford Springs, Connecticut, is the new manufacturing headquarters of American Woolen Company. It is the only domestic mill capable of producing the highest qualities of both worsted and woolen cloth.

American Woolen Company is committed to bringing back the jobs and technical mastery required to make the finest natural fiber fabrics in the world.

American Woolen Company’s mission is to not only reintroduce excellence in domestic textile manufacturing, but to contribute to the re-establishing of the American “metropolitan” style and to reclaim America’s heritage as a leading purveyor of tailored clothing. American Woolen is not merely a textile mill turning out standard fabrics, but a fashion-forward mill that enables domestic menswear manufacturers and specialty retailers to offer “The American Suit” to a global-minded consumer.

American Woolen’s fall/winter 2016 collection focuses on redefining the American style aesthetic to combine metropolitan sophistication with refined elegance. They scoured the American Woolen archives to develop a collection that tells an authentic American story. The collection contains 21 different styles with

40

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

over 100 different designs. Classic blue, black, gray and brown color lines are explored and deepened, while the extensive use of fine two-ply yarns in the warp and weft creates a more honest cloth.

Located a few hours from New York City, the mill is equipped with full design and product development teams who are willing to collaborate with clients to produce exactly what they want.

The compamy requires a low minimum of just 220 yards to produce any order with a reasonable lead time of 45 days for samples and 90 to 100 days for production orders. All of these great benefits are just part of American Woolen Company’s quick and efficient customer service.

American Woolen Company has the solid foundation to make its manufacturer and retail partners’ Made in America wardrobe programs possible. The company aims to empower the retailers to be able to outfit their customers in a quintessentially American wardrobe, ensuring the future of American metropolitan style and Made in America tailoring for many years ahead.

For more information on American Woolen Company, please contact: Creare Group 212-575-1838 creare@crearegroup.com

Reintroducing: The American Cloth A great American suit deserves a great American fabric. americanwoolen.com

Excellence in Fine Worsted and Woolen fabrics, Made in Connecticut.

Mill: 8 Furnace Avenue, Stafford Springs, CT Showroom: Creare Group, 237 West 37th Street, Suite 1200, New York, NY By appointment only: 212.575.1838

MADEINAMERICA PROMOTION

MADE-TO-MEASURE

Mel Gambert is on a mission to bring custom shirts to everyone.

Mel Gambert, rooted deeply in fam-

ily traditions dating back to 1933, is still making shirts in Newark, NJ. The Gambert family still oversees all of the product quality ensuring that its retail partners’ successes are its own successes. The highlight of this collection is Mel Gambert’s made-tomeasure program. It is one of the most custom programs the industry has to offer, encompassing everything from intricate design to interesting style features.

With a Mel Gambert shirt, it is not only about the styling and fabric selection; the company also crafts patterns taking into consideration the proportions of the customer, ensuring the best fit available. Moreover, it stocks well over 1,000 of the most visually and texturally dynamic fabrics, from opening price points to top-end, which are sourced from around the world to make sure that every customer’s custom shirt needs have been met.

Not only does Mel Gambert make custom shirts, but it also services its retail partners’ private label needs. The company can

Custom and ready-to-wear shirts made in Newark, New Jersey, USA. A selection of 1000+ fabrics sourced from the finest mills around the world.

Custom shirts cut from individual patterns and hand sewn with no automation.

Small minimums for your private label in-stock RTW program of your own design.

Contact us at: mitchg@gambertshirts.com 61 Freeman Street, 5th Floor Newark, NJ 07105 973.344.3440 gambertshirts.com

42

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

produce large or small quantities of ready-to-wear production, which helps it to foster a full-service business model. The benefit of this program is that Mel Gambert can offer seasonal shirts with low minimums as a private label option to its partners with the same look and feel as the made-to-measure program, therby offering two ways the store can gain from this package. Additionally, if a customer finds a readyto-wear shirt that he really likes, but it doesn’t quite fit, Mel Gambert can produce it made to the customer’s specific measurements. This added service creates an additional value to any retailer that has the need for custom shirts in its stores.

For more information on Mel Gambert, please contact: Mitch Gambert 973-344-3440 mitchg@gambertshirts.com gambertshirts.com

MADEINAMERICA PROMOTION

HATS OFF TO HENSCHEL America’s leading source for quality headwear.

Henschel Manufacturing Co o. was established in 1947 with the mission to create and manufacture fine headwear made in America. Born out of the idea to provide a wide variety of quality fashion, outdoor and western headwear, Henschel quickly gained notoriety with just 40 hat styles in its initial launch.

Now, 68 years later, Henschel Manufacturing Co. is a headwear industry leader with over 400 hat styles, including its signature outdoor and western headgear.

In addition, Henschel Manufacturing Co. is the exclusive licensee for such diverse brands as Robert Graham, Who Ced by Cedric the Entertainer and National Geographic. Henschel’s headwear is constructed of the finest materials available to the highest quality standards at affordable prices to its customers.

Despite increased competition overseas and decreased American garment manufacturing, Henschel president Tarek Deiab and VP of production Stephen Henschel are proud to say that their company still produces its styles in southern Missouri.

Stephen Henschel takes great pride in his company’s Made in the U.S.A. headwear, traveling 200 miles every day to its factory to ensure that all of the company’s hats meet the highest quality standards.

That’s not because it’s the trendy or cool thing to do, but because of a commitment to provide customers with high-quality Made in U.S.A. headwear.

Top-selling styles like Henschel’s Authentic Original Breezer Hats or Henschel’s Genuine Leather Hats offer just a taste of the company’s success.

From cutting the material to finishing each hat on that southern Missouri hat factory floor, there’s no better way to ensure that Henschel Manufacturing’s customers receive a fine hat Made in U.S.A. with pride.

For information on Henschel, please contact: Tarek Deiab President, Henschel Manufacturing Co. 314-421-0009 deiab@henschelhats.com

MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

43

MADEINAMERICA PROMOTION

WOVEN INNOVATION A dyed-in-the-wool success story continues.

Weaving fabrics in the USA since 1863, Pendleton’s founder, Thomas Kay, was instrumental in the development of the Oregon woolen textile industry. From these humble beginnings emerged a dyed-in-the-wool American success story. Pendleton quickly became known for its superior quality and craftsmanship. Kay’s heirs have continued running the familyowned and managed business for six generations.

Pendleton sources approximately half of its wool from local growers in Eastern Oregon and throughout the West who raise the finest fleece in the world, and many of whom have been partners with Pendleton for over 100 years. (Indeed, Pendleton Woolen Mills uses close to two percent of the world's wool.)

In order to maintain a woven in the USA product with global distribution and a strong competitive advantage, Pendleton Woolen Mills is always thinking ahead. Recent woolen fabric innovation includes Pendleton's exclusive WoolDenimTM and

Ultrafine MerinoTM; these fabrics are engineered to take wool to the next level.

Pendleton’s WoolDenim TM is its signature virgin wool fabric, woven in shades of indigo to create denim’s iconic tonal reverse; while its Ultrafine MerinoTM is lightweight and feels soft against your skin year-round.

These are just two of the new ideas coming from one of the longest running woolen mills in the U.S. who continue to push fabric excellence through innovation.

For more information about Pendleton Woolen Mills, please contact: EK MacColl, Menswear National Sales Manager 503-535-5726 ek.maccoll@penwool.com

FABRIC WOVEN IN AMERICA SINCE 1863

pendleton-usa.com

44

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

MADEINAMERICA PROMOTION

PIONEERING TRADITION Ramblers Way Farm innovates in natural fabrics and American supply.

Sheep to shirt. Field to fabric. Straight to you. The Ramblers Way

supply chain is all-American, start to finish. What began as one man's quest to discover a superior natural fabric is now an entire company's mission. Driven by tireless work with its progressive partners to create a unique, innovative cloth, Ramblers Way is pioneering a fully integrated vertical American supply: a roadmap the company wholeheartedly refers to as FIVAS. Here’s how FIVAS works: Ramblers Way sources Rambouillet wool in Montana, Colorado and Nevada from firsthand partnerships with ethical ranchers.

That wool is then taken through the hands of textile experts in North and South Carolina who clean, spin and knit this amazing, superfine fiber into fabrics. These silky soft fabrics are then transported to Chicago to be cut and sewn into garments, which then arrive in Maine for final quality inspection.

As one can see, it’s apparent the company is rooted in fabric making. Founder Tom

Chappell (who also founded Tom’s of Maine) explains the spark for the company’s remarkable cloth. "I asked if [our factories in the Carolinas] could help me make a cloth from this superfine fiber that would be light enough to wear unnoticeably and soft enough for everyday use. They all agreed, no, it was not possible. But I pushed them. I wouldn’t take no for an answer. Finally, we used a superfine fiber spun in a technically superior spinning process, which gave birth to Ramblers Way Farm.”

Out of FIVAS comes uncompromising innovation that weaves together people, planet and community. It’s an expression of interconnectivity that is spun into the very fabric of the mission at Ramblers Way Farm.

Fo or information on Ramblers Way Farm, please contact: Frank Herbert Vice President of Sales 207-391-3151 ramblersway.com

MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

45

MADEINAMERICA PROMOTION

BETTER SWEATERS The secret to St. Croix’s success is passion and commitment.

In the fashion business, the best way to judge product is to ask the people who sell it. Says John Haller from Patrick

James in Carmel, California, “Whenever we receive shipments of St. Croix sweaters, our entire team gathers around to open the cartons. This exceptional product surpasses everything else.”

Adds Don Rhoda from The Red Barn in Rochester, New York, “They’ve invented a collar that doesn’t curl under. We do extremely well with their collection, including the more contemporary Heritage division. It’s the finest knitting company in America.”

And here’s Tim Sitzman from Mr. B in Iowa: “They make the best knits in the world with love and care. No one else does it with such precision and attention to detail. The colors are perfect: they brighten our entire store. And the best part: there are zero returns.”

If there’s a secret ingredient to the success of this 55-year-old American-made collection, it’s the passion of founder Bernie Brenner, who’s involved in every aspect of the business, from the research to the technology (an engineer, he personally programs the knitting machines and

With perfection as our standard, nothing else compares.

STCROIXCOLLECTIONS.COM FACEBOOK/STCROIXCOLLECTIONS INFO@STCROIXCOLLECTIONS.COM

46

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

makes new parts) to the fashion-right designs to its famous patented collar, which took seven years of R&D to create, using a super-fine (5/1000th of an inch) Teflon collar stay.

Talk to Brenner about success secrets and he might mention all the handwork that goes into the 108 operations (hand cutting, hand looping, hand finishing) or he might mention their exclusive stitch technology or the fact that every garment (not every tenth) gets a detailed final inspection after dozens of earlier inspections. But mostly, he’ll talk about his dedicated and talented artisans: their creativity, focus and work ethic. “The best and hardest-working people in the world are right here in America,” he maintains, with obvious pride. "They keep proving we can make the best even better."

For more information on St. Croix Collections, please contact: St. Croix Collections Sales@stcroixcollections.com

MADEINAMERICA PROMOTION

OLD WORLD, NEW CUSTOMERS Adrian Jules takes pride in individual craftsmanship.

Arnie Roberti doesn't mind being called old fashioned.

His company, Adrian Jules, certainly uses modern technology for cutting and design efficiency in creating some of the world's finest custom garments. Indeed, it is developing systems to make the process even more transparent for its customers. However, Adrian Jules still relies on individual craftsmanship, old-world construction techniques and unsurpassed customer service to supply garments and build relationships with great retailers and their most challenging customers.

Every suit, jacket, and pair of trousers from Adrian Jules is an original. Every detail may be chosen or changed by its customers of all sizes or shapes. That's why it isn’t surprising to learn the names of celebrities, sports stars and corporate leaders who are big in their professions, (often in more ways than one) whose wardrobes are custom made at Adrian Jules. For more than 50 years, the company has been the "go-

to" maker serving specialty retailers, custom clothiers and custom tailors throughout North America.

Arnie, his brother Peter, daughter Alexa, nephews Peter and Matthew and 80 artisans, managers and skilled craftspeople, many of whom have been there 15, 20, 30 years or longer, produce every garment in a three-story factory in Rochester, NY, as they have since 1964.

They know each retailer personally and make only clothing with the combination of quality, value and attention to detail that will make you proud every time you deliver one to an appreciative customer.

For more information on Adrian Jules, please contact: info@adrianjules.com

Custom tailored and readyto-wear garments created in Rochester, NY. Highest quality fabric selection sourced from mills around the world.

Custom individual patterns are created, cut, and hand tailored.

HANDCRAFTED IN AMERICA

Adrian Jules Ltd. 1392 East Ridge Road Rochester, NY 14621 585-342-5886 www.adrianjules.com

MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

47

{ FASHION }

BOY MEETS GIRL

The look labeled ‘metrosexual’ in the ’90s is now so mainstream that the term is almost irrelevant. Could androgyny become the next normal?

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

Androgyny in fashion is a somewhat ambiguous concept. For S/S ’16, there were menswear collections explicitly influenced by the traditionally feminine, like ruffles and lace (see Burberry Prorsum, Gucci) while some more streetwearcentric collections were neither masculine nor feminine (see Craig Green, Rick Owens).

While androgyny is not a new concept in fashion, it has historically been more notable in womenswear (think Katharine Hepburn, Lauren Bacall). But women’s appropriation of menswear has a feminist bent. “When cock is king you go for the codpiece,” says Valerie Steele, fashion historian, curator, and director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “Men have always ruled the roost, so why would they want to diminish that by wearing something that’s associated with women? They must either re-appropriate the item, like earrings, which have only become macho in the last few decades. Or a celebrity, particularly a sports star like David Beckham in a sarong, must serve as a green light. The sentiment then is ‘I’m masculine enough to wear this; it doesn’t mean that I’m effeminate.’”

So, is androgyny commercially viable in 2015? Bruce Pask, fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, was “excited by the permissiveness, the gender fluidity in the spring shows. Alessandro Michele's Gucci collection reminded me of Kurt Cobain and how he often blurred gender boundaries with his wardrobe choices. The show felt both romantic and rock-n’-roll rebellious at the same time, with a wonderful, charmingly eccentric array of outfits that had a lot of heart and a huge amount of appeal.”

I would agree. I would wear one of those lace shirts in a flash (no pun intended), and similarly the femininity in Christopher Bailey’s ‘Strait-Laced’ shirts and ties for Burberry Prorsum was balanced by the formality of the

more traditional suits they were worn with.

But if there’s little question that the Goodman customer is an ‘early adopter,’ what about the rest of America? “The average American men's customer is not thinking about androgyny,” says Durand Guion, VP, men’s fashion director at Macy’s. “It will take some time before we really start to commercialize androgyny. It's more of a story than it is a reality for anyone other than a very small percentage of style leaders. Gender roles to our core customer are key: that’s what helps navigate their purchasing decisions.”

Other experts agreee. For example, Steele sees the more feminine aspects of the trend like “the men’s dresses in Shayne Oliver’s Hood By Air collection” as something that is “always going to be a niche phenomenon.”

But with that more feminine-styled men’s clothing at one end of the spectrum, there is the more genderless clothing on the other. “I think that what men and women are really embracing is the unisex look that we’re seeing in athleisure, active wear, and streetwear,” says Saks Fifth Avenue VP, men’s fashion director Eric Jennings. “It's not the lace and the very directional items we're seeing in a few shows; it’s the long layered T-shirts and the joggers. That is what’s more relevant, more commercial than isolated instances like the pussy bows at Gucci, and the lace at Burberry.”

So while a unisex aesthetic will drive the androgyny trend, opinions on more explicitly feminine menswear vary.

Steele sees it as something that will “always be a niche,” Pask sees it as appealing, and Guion as “an idea that will take decades to become a true commercial sensibility, if ever.” But women in suits were once a scandal, and as Guion goes on to say, “Millennial customers are constantly breaking down taboos.” In other words, never say never.

“The Millennial customer is constantly breaking down taboos.”

Durand Guion, Macy’s MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

49

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y C H R I S C A L L AWAY

50

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

AN

AGE

OF

A N D R O G Y N Y ABOVE: Craig Green; Vince SHOES. LEFT: Cadet JUMPSUITS; Louis Leeman BOOTS.

THIS PAGE ON HIM: Orley POLO; Matiere SWEATPANTS; Common Projects x Robert Geller SHOES. ON HER: Sachin & Babi TOP, SWEATPANTS; Cecelia SHOES. OPPOSITE ON HIM: Billy Reid JACKET, SHOES; Matiere T-SHIRT; Topman PANTS; Brixton HAT. ON HER: Topman JACKET; Daniel Silverstain SHIRT; Billy Reid PANTS, SHOES; Brixton HAT.

52

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

MR-Mag.com | NOVEMBER 2015 MR

53

THIS PAGE, LEFT: Issey Miyake; Triton JEWELRY. RIGHT ON HIM: Billy Reid SHIRT; Chapter PANTS; Louis Leeman BOOTS. ON HER: Baldwin T-SHIRT; Billy Reid SKIRT; Doc Marten’s BOOTS. OPPOSITE PAGE: Kennth Ning. LACE COURTESY OF Fabrics and Fabrics, NYC.

54

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

S P RI N G ST U D IO S, N Y C . M O DE L S : C AS P A R P E T E U S @ FU SI O N , VA L E N TY N A @ MUS E . H A I R: K AT S UMI MAT S UO; MA K E UP: MI S UZU MI YA K E @ A RT MI X. FASHI ON ASSI STANTS: W HI TNEY ANDR EW S, NADI A C HI N.

BY MICHAEL MACKO

HOW___________WORKS Neither father nor entrepreneur is what one would consider a part-time job, so for Adam Schoenberg, founder and co-CEO of the men’s accessory line Hook & Albert a home office is essential. “I don’t want to miss a phone call from Saks Fifth Avenue about an order, but I also don’t want to miss tucking my kids into bed at night” says Schoenberg. “Having a home office allows me to do both.” We spent a recent Wednesday morning with Schoenberg to see how he works.

THE ART The art in my office is very important to me; it inspires me to be creative, as well as successful so I can keep buying more. I have a decent, small collection that I constantly rotate; currently there’s a Damien Hirst print, an original piece by Angel Ortiz, who was a collaborator of Keith Haring, and two prints by Mr. Brainwash. The Mr. Brainwash Class Photo is my favorite, because it features iconic celebrities like Dolly Parton, Darth Vader and Marilyn Monroe. My son Adler knew all of their names by the age of one.”

THE BAGS “Our most successful products right now are our work and travel bags. I bring the prototypes home and test drive them before we go into production.

This is our newest bag (left); a convertible 3-in-1 that is briefcase, backpack, and shoulder bag all in one. We have found a niche in accessories that are multipurpose. It is really the only bag a guy needs.”

THE WIFE “My wife, Hayley Romer, is the publisher of The Atlantic, which means she travels a lot for her job.

That’s another reason why the home office is so important: it allows one of us to always be with the kids. I give a lot of credit to working moms (and dads) because I know how hard it is, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.

56

MR NOVEMBER 2015 | MR-Mag.com

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

THE WORK “My business partner Cory Rosenberg and I started Hook & Albert because there was no go-to accessories brand in the market and we could not find the things we wanted to wear. We started with colored shoelaces, lapel flowers, socks and ties, and we now cover over 26 product categories.”

THE KIDS “By far the most precious item in my office is my daughter Pierce. I love when I have time to give her a bottle or read her a story between meetings. I always keep some toys on my desk to keep the kids occupied if I get a call while I’m with them. Sometimes, a game of Hungry, Hungry Hippos with Adler is a good way to remind me of what’s important in life.”

CONGRATULATIONS ON THE RELAUNCH OF

JLindebergUSA.com

Shop Now

Your eCommerce partner,

www.monkeynmiddle.com

|

New York, New York

|

201.706.4580

|

info@monkeynmiddle.com

ghbass.com

AVAILABLE THROUGH SMART APPAREL (212) 329- 3457

MR NOVEMBER 2015

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE / PERSON OF THE YEAR

A BUSINESS JOU RNALS PUBLICATION

Vol. 26 No. 6