MR Magazine January 2026

JANUARY 2026

ELEMENTS OF STYLE MR’S TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK

THE PRICE OF LUXURY STRONG FOR HOW LONG? FOREVER DENIM FIT IS FUNDAMENTAL LONE STAR STYLE DALLAS PREVIEW

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CONNECTING THE INDUSTRY IN 2026

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MAGIC

PROJECT

LAS VEGAS February 17-19 August 10-12

LAS VEGAS February 17-19 August 10-12

NEW YORK February 24-26 September 9-11

SOURCING

NASHVILLE April 28-29

LAS VEGAS February 17-19 August 10-12

COTERIE

OFFPRICE

NEW YORK February 24-26 September 9-11

LAS VEGAS February 17-19 August 10-12

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CONTENTS

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE

EDITORIAL Editor-in-chief KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN Managing Editor JOHN RUSSEL JONES Web & Content Editor BRETT EDWARD STOUT Art Director MIKE STEVEN FRANÇOIS Contributing Editors CRAIG CRAWFORD | DOUG HAND | MICHAEL FISHER Contributing Creative Directors TREVETT MCCANDLISS / NANCY CAMPBELL

ADVERTISING Group Publisher LIZETTE CHIN Publisher CHARLES GARONE

DEPARTMENTS 4

EDITOR’S LETTER

10

FASHION FUTURES

14

LEGAL MATTERS

34

Cautiously Optimistic

6

Production Managers LAURIE GUPTILL / FERN MESHULAM / KATHY WENZLER

DENIM REPORT

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DALLAS PREVIEW

48

Lone Star Style

Brand Values

MEN’S WEARHOUSE

Merchant-in-Chief

Fit is Foremost

Watch and Shop

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PRODUCTION

FEATURES

LAST WORD

ITA’S Alessio Nanni

Marketing & Production Specialist CATHERINE ROSARIO Office Manager MARIA MARTUCCI Accounting KASIE CARLETON / URZULA JANECZKO / BRUCE LIBERMAN

TAILORED MARKET

Holding Strong

WAINSCOT MEDIA Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN

2026 TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK 18

CHECKING IN

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The Return of Getting Dressed

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MODERN CLOTH

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UNDER CONSTRUCTION

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QUESTIONS ANSWERED

What You Need to Know

WAYS TO WEAR IT

Chief Financial Officer/Vice President STEVEN RESNICK Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN / THOMAS FLANNERY NOELLE HEFFERNAN / MARIA REGAN

Four Fashion Influencers

What Makes a Suit

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SELLING TIPS

Best Practices

From Fiber to Fabric

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President & Ceo MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents LIZETTE CHIN / RITA GUARNA

TAILORED TRENDS

Directions in Style

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CUSTOM FINISH

CORPORATE OFFICE ONE MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656 WWW.MR-MAG.COM • WWW.WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM

The Next Level

On the Cover - Atelier Munro tuxedo, shirt, tie, and cummerbund, John Varvatos pin, Di Bianco shoes.

Photographer: Marko Kalfa, Styling & Production: Jahn Hall; Model: Daryl with NY Models. On this page Ted Baker suit, Unfeigned sweater, and vintage accessories. Model: Maximillian with Cilck models.

MR MAGAZINE (ISSN 1049-6726) IS PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656. SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES: TO CHANGE AN ADDRESS OR REQUEST A SUBSCRIPTION, WRITE TO: SUBSCRIPTIONS, MR MAGAZINE, 1 MAYNARD DRIVE, PARK RIDGE, NJ 07656; TELEPHONE: 201-573-5541. ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: CONTACT CHARLES GARONE AT 917.515.4531 OR CHARLES.GARONE@WAINSCOTMEDIA.COM. COPYRIGHT © 2026 BY WAINSCOT MEDIA, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 36, ISSUE 1.

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GLOBAL STYLE.

TEXAS SPIRIT.

January 24-26, 2026 Preview Day | January 23

July 25-27, 2026 Preview Day | July 24

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EDITOR’S LETTER

WHY WORRY? (We’re finding a few good reasons…)

By Karen Alberg Grossman

“

Remembering the financial crash of 2008, I have nightmares. Could it happen again? Of course it could. We’ve ridden this wave before…

Midwest retailer

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es, prices in tailored clothing are rising but few independent merchants are panicking. While we’re not advocating panic, we’re finding a few good reasons to pay attention.

• We’re seeing some scary high price tags on luxury tailored clothing, which is fine when the price tags reflect the intrinsic value. Unfortunately, this is not always the case.

• We’re seeing too many clothing retailers reluctant to try new ideas.

As one merchant put it: “I’ve got a great selling team, but they want more of what they sold last year. I prefer to push the envelope. I admit our sell-through on DBs is only 50 percent and we’re not selling tons of pleated trousers, but we need to show what’s new.”

• Retailers admit pressure from some of the major luxury conglomerates who demand that merchants (those deemed worthy enough to carry their brand) spend an additional fixed percentage on their seasonal buy. This leaves many without the open-to-buy to explore the market and try out new trends.

• Several merchants fear they’re losing their aspirational customers, those who simply want a well-made, well-priced suit to wear to a wedding or graduation (and who might ultimately trade up to buying luxury in upscale stores if they can find a few affordable options to meet their current needs.)

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”

Of course, not all beautiful clothing costs thousands of bucks. Says Peerless president Dan Orwig, “Core business has been strong, but we’re pushing fashion going forward. For example, our new Vince collection has a less formal West Coast vibe, incorporating cashmere knits and drawstring cargo pants. Ticket prices are $995 for suits, $695 for sportscoats.”

More discussion on price in our tailored clothing feature, page 34. Also in this issue, MR is proud to present our Tailored Clothing Handbook, page 17. In it: everything your sellers need to know about modern fabrics, fits, construction, selling tips, and fashion trends. Let us know if you need additional copies for your associates. Also in this issue: an important feature on shoppable video and why you might want to consider it, not as an alternative to the fabulous in-store experience you’ve already created, but as a way to add the power of instant online sales to your exceptional in-store experience. Read more on page 6!

As we at MR enter our 36th year of sharing insights and inspiration from the most knowledgeable experts in menswear, we want to thank you for your support over the past three and a half decades. Surely, we wouldn’t be here without you!

With love and light, Lizette, Charles, John, Brett and Karen

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FASHION FUTURES

THE 24/7

SALESMAN Why Shoppable Video is Your Store’s Secret Weapon

By Craig Crawford

H

ave you been too busy running your successful brick-and-mortar store to worry about the eCommerce/Digital craze? You’re not alone. For years, your personal touch, great service, and a physical location have been enough.

But today’s customer—the man who buys your suits, shirts, and accessories—is different. He’s glued to his phone, and he’s not just scrolling; he’s watching, and he’s ready to buy.

If you feel like you’ve fallen behind on social media and online shopping, don’t sweat it.

Shoppable video is your chance to leapfrog the competition and blend your best asset— the in-store experience—with the power of instant online sales.

The Hard Truth: He is Already Watching Your customers, like most Americans, are deeply engaged with video content, watching 84 minutes per day. In fact, video is 83% of global internet traffic, and 68% of viewers prefer watching videos to learn about new products or services. Almost one third (31%) of consumers watch videos posted by brands, and 86% want more videos from brands.

Here are more numbers that should make you put down that tape measure and pick up your phone!

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Nearly half of US consumers are social shoppers: 47% have already bought something they saw on social media, and over half (58%) are interested in doing so. This trend is not going away.

on a User Generated Content (UGC) link is already inclined to buy because they trust the endorsement from a peer, which significantly shortens their path to purchase and can boost spending by 45%.

Video dominates discovery: 75% of US consumers have shopped on Facebook and 50% on Instagram. 82% would rather watch live video than read social media posts, and they share what they watch—social video generates 1200% more shares than text and image content combined!

The Takeaway

Live shopping converts: 96% have watched an explainer video, and 87% buy that product after watching the explainer. Almost half (46%) of Americans have made a purchase through a livestream event and would do so again.

This is the new, digital version of your store’s best salesperson.

Think of a shoppable video as your best sales associate, available 24/7, with an integrated checkout. An interactive form of content, a shoppable video lets viewers purchase or learn more about featured products by clicking or tapping on clickable elements (known as hotspots or product tags) on the items themselves, all without leaving the video player or searching the internet separately. Instead of seeing a jacket they like in a video and then having to remember the brand, search your website, and hunt for the product page, customers can just tap the screen and buy the item right then, without disrupting the viewing experience.

Video grows revenue 49% faster: Interactive videos increase conversion rates 70% and have an audience reach of 92% globally.

The influence of peer recommendations: A video posted by a real customer demonstrating the fit of a jacket is 184% more effective at converting clicks into sales than a video created by your brand. The customer who clicks

The digital storefront is not replacing your physical store; it’s becoming the discovery channel for it. And the preferred format for discovery is video.

What is Shoppable Video and Why Does It Matter to You?

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The primary goal is to remove friction from the buying journey. When a viewer clicks a tagged product, they can typically: • See price, size, and product details in an overlay • Add the item directly to an in-video shopping cart • Be redirected instantly to the product page with the item pre-selected.

Shoppable videos can be either pre-recorded or live-streamed, with the host showcasing products, answering questions, and viewers able to buy instantly.

Imagine A video posted by your store titled How to Style a Tweed Blazer for the Weekend. As the model puts on the blazer, a small, clickable icon (the hotspot) appears on it. The customer clicks the icon, and a pop-up shows the blazer’s price, available sizes, and a “Shop Now” button. The customer adds the blazer to the cart and continues watching the video to see the featured shirt and trousers, which are also clickable.

Shoppable videos leverage impulse purchases. You secure the sale at the peak moment of interest. This real-time process captures the customer’s attention exactly when they feel inspired. The video serves as a seamless bridge that narrows the gap between product discovery, excitement, and purchase.

Shoppable videos build trust and authenticity. People retain 95% of a message when they watch it in a video, compared to just 10% when reading. Video allows you to show off the texture of a wool suit, the fit of a denim jacket, or the details of a leather shoe in a way that static photos can’t.

The “Laggard” Advantage If you’ve kept your focus on your physical store, you actually have a unique opportunity to create the most engaging shoppable content.

Many large online-only brands struggle to create content that feels authentic. But you have: 1. Real Expertise: Your in-store staff are the best stylists and fit experts.

2. Real Inventory: You can show what’s actually in stock right now.

3. Real People: You can feature your own employees—the faces your community already knows and trusts—instead of costly, generic models.

How to Leapfrog Your Competitors

Go Live for Maximum Impact (The Digital Trunk Show)

You don’t need a huge budget or a massive social following. Start small and use your store as your studio. Start with free shoppable video platforms such as Instagram Shopping, Facebook Live, YouTube Shopping, or TikTok shopping. Integrate product tags directly into the video on your website or social channels.

Live commerce is the closest thing to your physical store experience: • Host an event: Announce a Friday night cocktail attire live showcase. Your top sales representative from the store hosts the event and answers questions in real time.

This can produce significant results. One luxury menswear brand experienced a 37% increase in sales through video consultations and virtual store tours.

• Create urgency by offering a special deal, like free monogramming for the next hour, to boost immediate sales while the video is live.

Size Matters Shoppable videos that run under a minute have the highest engagement rate—66% of consumers will watch the entire video if it’s less than 60 seconds long; most watch at least 16 seconds (27%) of a one-minute video. A 60-minute video has an average watch time of 16 minutes.

Optimal Video Length

by Platform Instagram: 30 seconds X (previously Twitter): 45 seconds Facebook: 1 minute YouTube: 2 minutes TikTok: 21 to 34 seconds

The “Two-Click” Checkout Friction kills online sales. Shoppable video removes the friction between inspiration and ownership.

Click 1: The viewer taps the product in the video to see the price and sizes.

Click 2: They click “Add to Cart” or “Buy Now.”

Focus on “How-To” and “Behindthe-Scenes” Videos Instead of just showing a product, show the value of the product: • The 30-Second Style Tip: Your manager quickly shows Three Ways to Tie a Tie or The Right Length for Casual Trousers.

Tag the ties or trousers so viewers can buy instantly.

• The Unboxing/Quality Check: An employee discusses a new shipment of leather goods, feels the material, and explains why it’s worth the price. Shoppable tags appear on the featured wallets and belts.

• The Virtual Fitting Room: An employee models a suit in three different sizes, explaining the feel and fit of each. Viewers can tap the screen to select their size and add it to their cart.

Your Store is Already the Star Your competitive advantage has always been your knowledge, your curated inventory, and your service. Shoppable video is simply the tool that allows you to bottle that amazing in-store experience and distribute it to a massive, readyto-buy audience.

Don’t wait for your competitors to figure it out. Start experimenting with a single, authentic shoppable video this week.

Sources for the statistics in this article include (in alphabetical order): ComScore OTT Intelligence, Dash, Demand Sage, HubSpot Blog Research: Marketing Trends Report, Insider Intelligence, eMarketer, Livestream, Oberlo, SocialInsider, Social Pilot, Sprout Social, Thrive Internet Marketing Agency, Wix, and Wyzowl.

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-Step Shoppable Video Action Plan Start with Social (Free): Use Instagram/Facebook Live for a 15-minute “New Arrivals Showcase” this week. Tag your products in the live stream. This gives you instant data on customer interest.

Repurpose Content: Take the best 30-second clips from your live session and turn them into Reels or TikToks, ensuring the product is tagged for instant purchase.

Invest in a Website App: Once you confirm video is driving sales, invest in a low-cost Shopify app like Vizup or ReelUp to embed your top-performing videos directly onto the corresponding product pages for higher conversion rates.

Craig Crawford is a two-time Tabbie award-winning author and founderprenuer of Crawford IT (https://crawfordit. com), a London-based consulting firm specializing in the digital transformation of brands. He’s on Instagram and X, @ getamobilelife; or call +44 07834584785.

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LEGAL MATTERS

TRADEMARKS AND M&A

By Douglas Hand

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n a Wednesday evening in late November, a dedicated group of law students sat eating kosher sushi in a large lecture hall on the second floor of the Benjamin N. Cardozo School of Law. Despite the stress of looming final exams, there was an air of excitement in the room as the students prepared to hear from an all-star group of panelists that I moderated for an event titled Trademarks and M&A. The eminently qualified panel featured Karen Artz Ash (Global Co-Chair of the Trademark, Copyright and Privacy Practice Group at Katten Muchin Rosenman LLP) and Claudine Meredith-Goujon (Global Co-Head of the Intellectual Property & Technology Transactions Practice Group at Paul, Weiss, Rifkind, Wharton & Garrison). Jordan CohenKaplan (an associate at Wachtell, Lipton, Rosen & Katz) brought the perspective of an antitrust attorney, and William Susman (a Managing Director at Cascadia Capital), who’s had experience completing transactions for numerous brands, including Nike and Nordstrom, rounded out a discussion from an investment banking point of view.

Each panelist emphasized the importance of the brand itself in valuing fashion and beauty companies. A major fashion company’s physical assets and inventory might be quite limited, with a huge portion of the value lying with the brand’s goodwill. Depending on how the strength of that brand is perceived by consumers, the value of the company can heavily wax and wane. Trademark is the legal validation of that goodwill and brand equity.

Comprehensive trademark use, registration, and maintenance provide the backbone for the brand to grow. If that brand equity is strong

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enough, the profit margins can be significant.

While historically, eponymous brands such as Calvin Klein and Tom Ford dominated, there’s been a perceptible shift toward celebrity-associated brands like Skims and Fenty. The risk of eponymous brands (a topic I’ve written about extensively) lies with the individuals and egos involved. If much of that brand’s value is built on an individual, what happens if that person “goes off the rails”? What happens if an outside party wants to come in and change the direction of that company? On top of those concerns, M&A transactions can become complicated when a founder is caught up in certain equity plans within a corporation.

Fashion and beauty companies are often engaged in extensive licensing and assignment arrangements. Brands can be built on licenses from others. Trademark diligence often focuses on these third-party agreements, in addition to the more standard practice of examining trademark registrations and applications.

Understanding the ins and outs of these complex third-party trademark agreements can make or break a deal.

Meredith-Goujon addressed a transaction she worked on in 2022 – The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.’s agreement to acquire the Tom Ford brand and all its intellectual property. While many people associate Tom Ford with the men’s fashion line, the key asset that Estée sought in the deal was actually Tom Ford Beauty. The beauty brand became the owned and maintained property of Estée, while Zegna and Marcolin retained their long-term relationship with Tom Ford as licensees for Tom Ford Fashion and Eyewear, respectively.

Not every deal makes it to closing. When Tapestry sought to combine three close

competitors—Tapestry’s Coach and Kate Spade brands and Capri’s Michael Kors brand—in April 2024, the FTC challenged the deal before it closed. Ultimately, the U.S. District Court for the Southern District of New York agreed with the FTC that this merger of well-known handbag brands constituted an unacceptable combination of “accessible luxury brands.”

Along with me, the panelists were surprised by the court’s decision, finding Mr. CohenKaplan’s arguments in favor of Tapestry more convincing. A main part of Tapestry’s argument was that the competitive analysis should focus more on Michael Kors losing brand equity despite its current revenue. It was also argued that the FTC did not properly estimate the size of the market or the consumer perception and choices within it. Whether this case indicates further limitations in fashion and beauty consolidation is not yet clear, but will assuredly be impacted by evolving consumer purchasing trends, as well as by changes within the FTC leadership and policy directives that change by administration.

The night was full of unique anecdotes, behind-the-scenes stories, and insights sparked by the gathering of these professionals. Thank you to the Cardozo Law Intellectual Property Law Society for hosting the event and its Chairman, Aaron Kaplan, for his assistance on this article.

Douglas Hand is one of the preeminent fashion lawyers in the country. His industry bona fides include member of the CFDA Fashion Awards Guild, chairman of the board of FIT, professor of fashion law at NYU and Cardozo Schools of Law, and recognized Super Lawyer for the past 10 years. He can be reached at dhand@hballp.com.

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DENIM

AG supports updated silhouettes with its updated Danish-modern inspired store design.

DENIM DIRECTIONS

By Karen Alberg Grossman

I

t’s been a good if not great year for denim sales, according to retailers and brands.

While most of the fashion innovation has been on the women’s side (looser fits, wider legs, higher rises, soft sustainable fabrics, and creative detailing), there’s enough going on in men’s to move the needle for retailers who emphasize key selling points and great storytelling. As Fred Derring from DLS puts it, “Retailers should be broadening their assortments beyond five-pockets, which guys already own plenty of. At the very least, they need slim fit, relaxed fit, boot cut, and flare to cover all bases…”

“The classic denim brands continue to drive our business,” says Aly Turchioe at Darien Sport Shop in Connecticut, alluding to AG and Citizens of Humanity. “However, we’ve seen an uptick in sales where we’ve expanded our assortment. We also re-introduced Frame to the store and it’s quickly become one of our top denim brands. We’ve developed a

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nice replenishment program with them: we win when we can react and re-order quickly!

“Trunk shows are hit or miss for us,” she confides. “We find it’s hard to tell customers when to shop. We’ve been working hard to think outside the box for our in-store events to make them even more special for our customer. We’re doing things like bringing in coffee/food trucks and hosting personalization events. We just had an amazing trunk show with 34 Heritage where we featured a large, expanded assortment and hosted a beer-tasting with Spacecat, a local brewery, which was a huge hit.”

What are the key selling points that will drive men’s denim sales in 2026? According to Ugur Caymaz at DL1961, innovation is the biggest driver. “Customers want comfort, performance, and authenticity — and they buy from brands that stay consistent in fit while evolving in fashion. Clear fit architecture, strong fabric stories, and sharp floor presentations are critical. When

associates understand why a product is different, denim sales follow. It’s not rocket science — when you execute on these fundamentals, it becomes a no-brainer.”

Anna Greco at Camouflage is most excited about special details. “For Fall ’26, I’m genuinely excited about how the Camouflage collection has evolved. The new fabrics, updated fits, unexpected color treatments, and select details bring something really special to the season—pieces that feel modern, wearable, and instantly compelling.”

At 34 Heritage, much excitement is in a total wardrobe approach to the business. Says Volkan Ureten, “The knit tops, quarter zips, shirt jackets, blazers, outerwear, and other elevated casual pieces make shop-in-shops an increasingly viable option. Recent trunk shows at our retail partner stores have been record-breaking.”

According to the marketing team at AG, Fall/Winter 2026 is about “exploring a fresh

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range of novelty washes and new fabrications that introduce what we’re calling ‘familiar newness.’ This includes unique finishes such as coated denim in both garment and fabric form, as well as destroy-and-repair techniques that create a lived-in authenticity. We’re also developing rich blue-black indigos that add a refined dimension to men’s wardrobes. It’s an exciting evolution of the line that feels true to who we are.”

The AG team goes on to talk about retail success stories. “Specialty retailers like Mitchells are delivering exceptional results due to their elevated customer experience and strong visual storytelling. Bloomingdale’s has also been highly effective in presenting the full collection in a way that drives customers to our denim tables and encourages deeper engagement.

And Nordstrom, one of our largest men’s accounts, continues to win by offering a complete, easy-to-shop bottoms assortment for customers seeking a trusted jean without overthinking the process.”

34 Heritage’s Richard Binder dropping in on Aly Turchioe of Darien Sport Shop.

DREAM JEANS

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By Karen Alberg Grossman

recent teaching stint at Parsons School of Design with students in a Fashion Journalism class gave me the opportunity to reverse roles and learn from them. Here, a few insights from NYC college students, mostly females and hardly a likeminded group.

Thanks to Professor Christopher Blomquist for facilitating this project.

Ownership of denim jeans ranged from a single pair to nine, worn “rarely” to “every day.”

Most recent purchases included “Orange overalls with bronze buttons that look vintage and theatrical but cost $40 at Target” (Emery, who is now boycotting Target), “hand-me-down Levi’s” (Isabella), “over-sized black carpenter jeans that cost $80 plus tax at Vintage Twin in the East Village” (Sydney), “a thrift-store jacket costing $5 at Red White & Blue” (Camille), “Revice jeans at $100+” (Kylie), “black barrel-leg jeans for $30 at Uniqlo” (Danielle), “vintage D&G jeans for $400” (Sarah) and “baggy raw denim pants from ASOS” (Jireh, who shops this brand for its large selection for tall people).

Asked what they want to buy next, responses once again varied. Emery is in love with a tan and black denim jacket that they saw at Coterie but only if it’s under $70. Kylie wants “fun denim pants with funky details,” while Sydney covets “skinny or boot-cut jeans reflecting the Indie sleaze of the 2010s.” Jireh has been

eyeing some $500 straight-leg pants from Acne Studios, grateful for a discount from friends who work in the store.

Virtually all students complained about fit, specifically the impossible dream of finding perfection. “Jeans should fit at the waist without pushing into it,” notes Emery. “If it fits at the waist, it’s too loose at the hips,” says Isabella, who adds that she’d spend up to $200 for a perfect fit, which seems impossible.”

Sydney would also spend more for a perfect fit, and dreams of classic 501 Levi’s that sit perfectly at her waist. Sarah has problems fitting her tall and skinny frame, plus small sizes are too often sold out. “Sizing is important,” sums up Kylie. “Jeans are statement pieces and speak to me spiritually.” Jireh notes that since so few retailers carry long lengths in store, he’s forced to purchase online, a challenge in that sizing is not standardized across brands.

Current popular models according to these students are medium to low rise, wide-leg, flare, and bootcut jeans. A few mentioned slim-fit for more elevated occasions, and some specified baggy for comfort. (Interesting that none of the female respondents mentioned high-rise models.)

What would inspire these kids to spend more on denim? In addition to that elusive perfect fit, Emery would love to see “more creativity in materials and details.” Sydney believes that brands should remake vintage, praising

Revice Denim and Jaded London. Almost all students value the importance of sustainability, but only at more affordable prices. Several students mentioned a need for more small waist sizes (26 and 27), expanded inseam options, and real pockets.

And how much would these fashionistas spend for perfect fitting, artistically detailed, interestingly designed dream jeans? $120, $200, $250, even $1000 and $1500! Says Jirah, “I’ve solidified my style, so I’m confident investing in pieces to last a long time. It’s said that men’s fashion doesn’t change, but I think it’s more about too few interesting options in the stores.”

Let the creativity begin!

“”

I’d buy jeans more often if designers were more creative with materials and details.

Emery, Parsons student

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DALLAS PREVIEW

LIVING LARGE, THINKING BIG

Here’s just a sampling of what to expect at this season’s Dallas Men’s Show

By John Russel Jones

T

he Dallas Men’s Show kicks off with a preview on the afternoon of Friday, January 23rd, and runs through Monday, January 26th, part of the Dallas Market Center’s (DMC) Fashion Week, which includes women’s, children’s, Western, and English apparel and accessories. This season the show spotlights outdoor, accessories, gifts, grooming, and home décor. Temporary exhibitors continue to show in the natural light of the mid-century Market Hall, with permanent exhibitors available via shuttle service or a quick walk to the World Trade Center (it’s also a few steps across the parking lot from the Renaissance Hotel).

Other notable brands include Billy Reid, Brax, Bugatchi, David Donahue, Faherty, Liverpool Los Angeles, Mavi, Mizzen + Main, Paige, Vineyard Vines, and others, giving retailers a strong mix of elevated essentials, modern sportswear, and fashion-forward collections.

Party Hearty

The DMC’s permanent exhibitor roster continues to grow: Young Robot Sales (WTC 7620) is a multiline showroom representing Smith eyewear, Brixton apparel and hats, and Blenders eyewear. Roostas & Bluecrest (WTC 7640) also debuts, featuring a collection of bold prints, collegiate-licensed apparel, and belts.

Of course, this is Dallas, where they know how to party. After a long Saturday of writing orders, head to the Bourbon Bar in the Market Hall at 3:00 pm to slake your thirst, but don’t get carried away! The opening night cocktail hour begins at 5:30 pm, featuring perfectly crafted cocktails. On Sunday at 2:00 pm, take a break and head to the Market Tailgate party (also at the Market Hall’s central bar), and enjoy the big game. Taking advantage of the full fashion week? The Headwear Association will host its first ever non-New York City event on Thursday night at 5:45 (but space is limited, so give them—ahem—a “heads-up” at theheadwearassociation.org/2026-dallas-cocktail-party/)

Great outdoors

More than menswear

The outdoor lifestyle section of the Market Hall space includes a strong lineup of brands, including: Baja Llama, Ball and Buck, Burlebo, Decoy Apparel Co., Dubarry of Ireland, Duck Camp, Filson, Heybo, High Creek Outdoors, Local Boy Outfitters, Southern Point Co., Texas Standard, Tom Beckbe, and others.

Does your store venture beyond menswear? Dallas Fashion Week also includes: • Women’s Apparel & Accessories Market: January 20–23 • KidsWorld: January 20–23 • WESA’s International Western/English Apparel & Equipment Market: January 21–24 • AETA International Trade Show: January 21–24

New permanent exhibitors

Guiding Gifts With “Grads-and-Dads” season right around the corner, gifts and fashion accessories exhibitors include Edward Armah, Gentlemen 1677, JZ Richards, L.E.N Lifestyle, La Matera, Mistral, Next Belt, Raen Optics, Rey Pavon, Smathers & Branson, Unified, and many more.

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Brand Notes

…all inside the World Trade Center.

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DALLAS PREVIEW

DALLAS:

THE MARKET WITH TEXAS SPIRIT, GLOBAL STYLE, AND STRONG MOMENTUM Catching up with Cindy Morris, President and CEO of the Dallas Market Center

By John Russel Jones How has aligning the January markets at the Dallas Market Center to create a Dallas Fashion Week changed the way retailers buy?

Bringing our January markets together to create Fashion Week has elevated how retailers see trends in real time across apparel, accessories, footwear, children’s, and men’s, while also making it easier to explore Western and English categories. It has encouraged a more holistic approach to expanding into new categories with confidence. Having everything under one roof helps buyers purchase more strategically and build a stronger, more competitive merchandise mix for the season ahead.

What new opportunities do you see that haven’t been fully explored yet?

Great independent retail is a tailored blend of categories, and there is an opportunity for us to present additional in-demand categories at the show to create a thoughtful, and helpful, buying experience. We’ve identified that men’s gift, accessories, grooming products, and even home accents are resonating strongly with retailers, and that’s why we have added more brands in these categories. Another key opportunity is the growth of outdoor lifestyle. Dallas is where these outdoor brands can reach the right buyers and build strong relationships with better retailers who want to offer their customers unique products.

How is the growing men’s gift category shaping the way retailers think about their merchandise mix?

Men’s gifts are in demand, and buyers are noticing, which is why we will have a special showcase of gift resources to help retailers find 16

the perfect product. Along with gift resources in Market Hall, buyers can explore dozens of brands throughout showrooms in the World Trade Center and Trade Mart that carry men’s gift lines, making it easy to source multiple styles and price points.

What are you hearing from retailers? What are the challenges and benefits in today’s market, and how is Dallas Market Center responding?

I have spent time on the road visiting retailers several times this year, and they tell me that their most precious commodity is time, so that’s why we focus on helping them make the most of their time at market. They want to discover unique, quality products, and they want a buying experience that’s efficient and intuitive.

They also want an experience that’s welcoming and offers a true Texas spirit—which may or may not include barbecue and a margarita. Our Men’s Show allows us to deliver exactly that, with great hospitality, an open, easy-to-navigate floor plan plus key categories to help retailers stand out.

Anything specific you’d like retailers and brands to know heading into the upcoming show?

My message is simple: We will exceed your expectations. If you’re looking to write orders, build relationships, and explore a range of product categories, Dallas delivers it all in one efficient, welcoming marketplace. I’m incredibly proud of the momentum behind the Dallas Men’s Show, and I can’t wait for everyone to experience what’s ahead.

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TAILORED CLOTHING

HANDBOOK

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MR TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK

MR TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK T

he tailored clothing universe is at an intriguing intersection of heritage and innovation. After a period where casualization dominated, men’s suiting and sport coats are experiencing a thoughtful revival—driven by younger buyers, hybrid work patterns, and a sharper emphasis on performance and personalization.

TAILORED CLOTHING: THE CHECK-IN The Return of Getting Dressed After years of dressing down, guys are rediscovering the power of looking put-together. Today’s suit or sport coat isn’t about rules—it’s about choice. And that sense of intention is bringing new energy to the floor.

Momentum Worth Watching The U.S. suit market was projected to hit $2.09B in 2025 (Statista), while global tailored clothing and dress furnishings are expected to grow by $20.78B from 2024–2028, a 4.5% compound annual growth rate (Technavio). In other words: the category’s not just alive—it’s evolving.

Comfort is King Stretch, breathability, lighter canvases, softer shoulders—performance is now part of the pitch.

If it doesn’t move, men won’t either. Comfort is no longer a perk—it’s an expectation.

A Smarter, Savvier Customer Today’s shopper—especially the younger one—walks in knowing his fit. He’s fluent in proportion, silhouette, and what feels modern. He’s looking for guidance, not a lecture.

There’s Opportunity for Sport Coats For many retailers—particularly in moderate and better channels—sport coats have become the everyday tailored piece: easy, versatile, and wearable across hybrid work and social calendars. Luxury specialty stores report a firmer suiting business tied to custom programs, weddings, and events. Bottom line: the mix shifts depending on the door, but the appetite is there.

This revised and updated version of the MR Tailored Clothing Handbook [Our last version was from 2012, when slim-fit suits were just breaking through!] breaks down the fabrics, constructions, and trend stories shaping the industry in 2026 and beyond—so retailers and sales associates can meet today’s shopper with confidence. —Michael Fisher Michael Fisher is a recognized expert in trend forecasting and consumer behavior, with over 20 years of experience in strategic storytelling and retail, including 13 years as VP of menswear at forecasting agency Future Snoops.

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MR TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK

THE MODERN CLOTH GUIDE From micron counts to smart finishes, here’s how tailoring’s textiles measure up—past, present, and future.

Tailored clothing has always started with cloth. Whether woven from pure wool, blended with silk or stretch, or finished with the latest performance tech, the story of a suit begins in the mill. Understanding the language of fabric—weight, weave, twist, and finish—makes all the difference between good and great.

WEIGHING IN

SO TWISTED

The weight of fabric is measured in ounces per linear yard (36” x 60”). It defines how the cloth drapes, breathes, and performs through the seasons.

Fabric Type

Weight (oz.)

Best For

Tropical

6.5–8.5 oz

Warm-weather tailoring

Mid-weight

9–10 oz

All-season suits

Regular-weight

11–13 oz

Cool-weather structure

A continuous filament is a long, unbroken strand—usually synthetic—while natural fibers like wool are spun from staples (relatively short fibers, as they come from the animal or plant).

Hanks measure yarn fineness (560 yards per hank); the more hanks per pound, the finer the yarn Super Numbers express fiber diameter in microns (µ): Super 100s = 18.5 µ Super 120s = 17.5 µ Super 160s = 15.5 µ (about the width of cashmere) And for synthetics, Denier flips the scale: smaller number = finer yarn.

Twist gives yarns their resilience and character. High-twist yarns resist wrinkles and hold a crisp line, ideal for travel tailoring Ply refers to how yarns are combined: • Singles: one yarn—light and smooth.

• 2-ply: two yarns twisted together—adds strength and structure.

• 2x2 construction: plied yarns in both warp and weft for maximum balance.

Modern mills now use high-twist wools for mechanical stretch— no synthetics required.

Did You Know?

The original “crepe” wasn’t a fabric—it was a twist technique. Italy’s Biella region pioneered the first wrinkle-resistant wools for international business travelers. Denim’s signature diagonal twill is a cousin to suiting twill— we’re all part of the same loom family.

MICRON SCALE

Did You Know?

Savile Row tailors once judged fabric weight purely by touch.

“Tropical Weight” was coined during British colonial expansion to describe lighter worsteds made for officers abroad.

The softest wool ever measured was 11 microns—finer than a human hair (which averages 70 microns).

HUMAN HAIR

70µ

SUPER 100’s

18.5µ

CASHMERE

15.5µ

VICUÑA

12µ

0

20

40

60

80

Image courtesy of Gladson New York.

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MR TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK

WEAVE AWAY

FINISH STRONG

The warp runs vertically on the loom; each thread is an end.

The weft runs horizontally; each thread is a pick. Together they form the structure of every tailored cloth.

Finishing gives cloth its hand—that final feel, sheen, and structure Finish Type

Effect

Weave Type

Structure

Characteristics

Fulling

Compacts wool for density and strength

Plain

Over-under alternation

Lightweight, breathable

Napping

Raises surface fibers for softness (flannel)

Basket

Grouped yarns

Soft, textured surface

Decatizing

Steam-sets structure and removes shine

Twill

Diagonal ridge

Smooth drape, wrinkle-resistant

Sponging

Stabilizes fabric before tailoring

4-Harness / Venetian

More warp shown on face

Luster, density, luxury finish

Shearing

Smooths surface for even texture

Today’s weaves incorporate open structures, stretch yarns, or hybrid blends to balance airflow with modern motion.

Did You Know?

The term warp comes from Old English weorpan, “to throw”— because the weft was “thrown” through the warp by shuttle.

Hopsack sport coats are technically basket weaves—a casual cousin to classic suiting. Twill’s diagonal pattern helps mask creases, which is why it’s the standard for power suiting.

EVOLVE PERFORMANCE The newest chapter in suiting merges heritage with high tech. Mills now spin innovation into tradition—literally.

Innovation

What It Does

Stretch & Recovery

Moves with the wearer

Cool Wool

Regulates body temperature

Wrinkle Resistance

Retains press through travel

Water & Stain Repellent

Shields against the elements

Moisture Wicking

Keeps you dry and cool

Thermo-Regulation

NASA-level comfort control

Regenerative Fibers

Sustainable luxury

Anti-Microbial Finishes

Freshness between wears

Modern finishing goes beyond the aesthetic: wrinkle-resistance, moisture wicking, and nanotech coatings now merge performance with polish.

Did You Know?

“Decatizing” comes from décatir—“to take off the luster.” Some luxury mills sponge fabric for days to ensure perfect drape.

Flannel’s fuzzy nap was first engineered to trap warmth for English mill workers.

THE TAKEAWAY The vocabulary of tailoring has expanded—from hanks and harnesses to hydrophobic coatings—but the goal remains timeless: a fabric that looks sharp, feels natural, and wears beautifully. Tradition isn’t lost—it’s just been rewoven.

Did You Know?

“Cool Wool” was coined by The Woolmark Company in the 1980s to rebrand wool for warm climates. Outlast®, developed for NASA, now lines tailored jackets to stabilize temperature. Some Italian mills embed QR codes in selvedges—scan it, and you can trace your suit back to the exact flock of sheep.

Image courtesy of Gladson New York.

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SUIT CONSTRUCTION

GUIDE

Did You Know?

The “ticket pocket” dates back to British train travel — designed for easy access to a paper ticket.

JACKET ANATOMY

SHOULDER CONSTRUCTION

GORGE: Where the collar meets the lapel. Should be smooth, not puckered.

Higher gorge: Elongates the torso (English tailoring) Lower gorge: Softer chest line (Italian tailoring)

SOFT / UNSTRUCTURED: Minimal padding, relaxed silhouette ROPED: Raised sleeve head, more formal and defined PADDED / BUILT-UP: Strong and architectural

LAPELS NOTCH LAPEL: Classic and versatile

DARTS Slim vertical seams that contour to the body — clean and flat.

PEAK LAPEL: Strong, upward V — adds formality

A field manual for the modern associate — from collar to cuff.

SHAWL LAPEL: Rounded and sleek — for tuxedos

FIT FOUNDATIONS

Lapel Details PICK-STITCHED: Decorative, tailored finish

DROP Difference between jacket size and pant waist size.

POCKET STYLES

BLUFF EDGE: Clean, no visible stitching

Traditional Fit: 6” drop (40R coat = 34” pant) European Fit: 7” drop

FLAP POCKET: Standard, classic

COLUMBIA STITCH: Interior pick-stitching, revealed when the lapel flips open

Athletic Fit: 8” drop A higher drop = slimmer silhouette through waist & seat.

RISE Distance from crotch to waistline.

JETTED POCKET: Sleek, for formalwear PATCH POCKET: Casual, sewn onto exterior TICKET POCKET: Small, upper-right — a British heritage cue

BUTTON STANCE Position of top button that determines lapel roll.

Low stance: Broadens the chest (athletic) High stance: Lengthens the torso (fuller figures)

High rise: Classic proportion Low rise: Contemporary, slim fit POINT-TO-POINT Shoulder-to-shoulder measurement (usually 19–20”). Slimmer fits reduce width for a sharper profile.

Did You Know?

The angle of the lapel roll is determined by the button stance — it defines how a suit “sits” on the chest.

Did You Know?

Tailors say “the suit starts at the shoulder” — it’s the framework that defines the entire silhouette.

INNER ENGINEERING CHEST PIECE The inner architecture of the jacket.

Full Canvas: Hand-stitched horsehair canvas that molds to the wearer Half Canvas: Structured chest, lighter body

LININGS Bemberg™ (Cupro): Breathable, smooth, and color-rich Half or Quarter Lining: Lightweight and breathable French Facing: Curved fabric facing inside for a refined finish

Fused: Glued layers — lighter and faster, now much improved BUTTONHOLES Dense stitching = quality.

Working sleeve buttonholes signal craftsmanship.

TROUSER DETAILS LINING Pant lining should extend below the knee for comfort and drape.

Did You Know?

Bemberg isn’t a color—it’s a fabric made from cotton linter, prized for luxury linings since the 1930s.

PROPORTION TIP: Suit pants are sold unfinished (open-bottom) so they can be hemmed to the customer’s ideal break length.

BREAK The crease where pant hem meets the shoe.

CUFFS Typical with pleated trousers (1½”).

Flat-front pants are usually uncuffed.

Full Break: Traditional

Half Break: Modern

No Break: Clean and contemporary

MODERN TAKEAWAY Today’s tailoring blends Savile Row tradition with performance tech — fusing craftsmanship and comfort.

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MR TAILORED CLOTHING HANDBOOK

QUICK ANSWERS FOR TODAY’S SUIT SHOPPER Your cheat sheet for confident selling — short answers, modern takes, and timely talking points.

Dress Codes Decoded

Construction & Comfort

Style & Color Confidence

Q: What’s the difference between “black tie” and “black tie optional”?

Q: What’s driving the comfort revolution in tailoring?

Q: Can a customer skip the tie and still look dressed up?

A: Athleisure’s influence. Look for stretch wools, knit constructions, and performance linings. Customers expect comfort — even in a suit.

A: Definitely. Recommend a structured spread-collar shirt or a fine-gauge knit polo for a confident, modern take.

A: “Black tie” means tuxedo, no exceptions.

“Optional” gives customers some freedom — a dark suit and tie are acceptable, but it should still feel polished.

Q: How do I explain “creative black tie”?

A: Encourage subtle individuality — think velvet dinner jackets, tonal tux looks, or open collars for men with style confidence.

Pro Tip: Keep one or two fashion-forward tux looks on your floor for these occasions — customers often buy when they see how it could look.

The Modern Suit Update Q: Are double-breasted suits back?

A: Yes, but redesigned — slimmer, shorter, and softer. A modern DB can be a great upsell for the customer who “has everything.”

Q: What does “soft tailoring” mean?

Q: What colors and patterns are trending beyond navy and gray?

A: Less structure, more ease. Minimal padding, natural shoulders, and lightweight canvases that drape and move with the body.

A: Taupe, stone, olive, chocolate, and soft blue.

Tonal checks and fine stripes add visual interest without being loud.

Q: Are pleated pants really making a comeback?

Pro Tip: Encourage customers to “mix it up” — a neutral jacket and patterned pant combo can refresh their wardrobe without a full suit purchase.

A: Yes — single pleats, higher rises, and gently tapered legs are trending for the fashion customer. They read relaxed, not retro. For your everyday guy, a flat front will still suffice.

Pro Tip: Use “comfort” language customers understand — stretch, breathable, easy to wear — instead of tailoring jargon.

Q: What vent style should I recommend?

A: Side vents — they move naturally, look modern, and flatter most builds.

Pro Tip: When customers try on jackets, show how side vents keep the back clean when they move or sit. Small detail, big impression.

Q: How has the customer’s view of suits changed?

Fabric & Function

A: The new suit mindset is about versatility — pieces that can move from day to night, dress shoes to sneakers. Less about rules, more about personality.

Q: What fabrics work best for warm weather?

Pro Tip: Frame tailoring as empowerment, not obligation — “You don’t have to wear a suit; you get to wear one.”

Q: What’s the right button stance today?

A: Two buttons remain the classic. A “3-roll-2” offers subtle European flair and a cleaner line.

Mindset Matters

A: Tropical wools, cotton-linen blends, and high-twist yarns that breathe and bounce back.

Don’t overlook new performance blends — they’re wrinkle-resistant and travel-friendly.

Q: What pocket styles feel most current?

A: Patch pockets — especially on unstructured blazers or knit jackets. They instantly signal “relaxed sophistication.”

Pro Tip: Keep sample swatches handy. Feeling the difference between a tropical wool and a stretch knit often seals the sale.

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THE MODERN ART OF SELLING SUITS: WHY TRUST IS YOUR STRONGEST CURRENCY

I

n 2026, tailored clothing is in an interesting place. The category continues to rebound as more men return to suits, sport coats, and dress trousers for work, events, and self-expression. But unlike many other fashion categories, tailored clothing remains deeply personal: the fit is personal, the investment is personal, and the level of trust required between seller and shopper is higher than ever.

If there’s one idea from Jack Mitchell’s Hug Your Customer that holds especially true for suit selling, it’s this: relationships power revenue.

When a customer feels seen, listened to, and guided—not pushed—he returns again and again. Tailored clothing is not a transactional business; it’s a long-game business. And the best associates today understand that they’re not simply selling garments; they’re building confidence, loyalty, and lifelong clients.

Here is a modern guide to suit-selling techniques that meet today’s customer where he is: time-pressed, information-overloaded, but eager for expertise he can trust.

1. Build Trust First; Build the Sale Second Tailored clothing is high-investment and high-emotion. For many men, buying a suit feels like choosing armor—something they’ll wear to weddings, funerals, job interviews, and life milestones.

Because of that, the associate must function as everything from a stylist and fit expert to a confidence coach. The more the customer trusts you, the less he hesitates.

2. Help Him Make a Smart Decision (Not the Most Expensive One) Price leadership matters. Qualification helps you determine where to start: opening price, mid-tier, luxury, or custom. But the goal is always to lead him to the right choice—not simply the highest rung.

Smart guidance strategies: • Start with the foundation piece (suit or sport coat).

• Present fits and fabrics that match his lifestyle.

• Show him why something works—shoulders, chest, drape, proportions.

• Let his body language lead your next move.

And once the foundation is set, that’s when you thoughtfully expand the sale.

3. Master the Add-On Sale (Without Feeling Salesy) In tailored clothing, add-ons aren’t upsells—they’re solutions.

Every man wants to look complete.

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Once the suit or sport coat is chosen, offer: • Dress shirts that complement the palette • Ties or pocket squares to refine the look • Dress trousers or versatile five-pockets • Modern, non-skinny denim for dressed-down sophistication • Shoes, belts, and socks for a finished appearance The key is purposeful curation. You’re not tossing product at him—you’re editing his wardrobe.

4. Fit Coaching: Get Hands-On (Respectfully) Helping a man try items on—adjusting the collar, straightening the lapel, pinning the sleeve—reaffirms your status as an expert. Men appreciate being guided, especially when the steps are explained.

Examples: • “Let’s pull this sleeve to show you the clean line at the cuff.”

• “See how this shoulder lays flat? That’s what we want.”

• “I’m pinning this here so the tailor can perfect your fit.”

Tailored clothing customers want reassurance. They want to know they’ve chosen well.

5. Look the Part (Because You Are Part of the Brand) In tailored clothing, your outfit is your résumé.

Essential standards: • Fit your own jacket and trousers impeccably • Personalize your look—within reason • Wear pieces you actually like and can speak about authentically • Present yourself as someone who understands style today Your personal appearance is silent trust-building.

The Takeaway: Sell With Heart, Skill, and Honesty At the core of every successful suit sale is a relationship. If you know your inventory, listen well, guide with integrity, and follow up with genuine care, you’ll build a client book filled with men who trust you—not just with their purchase, but with their image.

Be yourself. Be passionate. Be the expert they didn’t know they needed.

And most of all—hug your customer. Not literally (unless it’s appropriate), but in how you serve, support, and show up for him.

Scan here tor more pro selling tips!

That’s how suit sellers win today.

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WAYS TO WEAR IT MR Catches up with four leading men’s fashion influencers to see how they wear tailored clothing.

“

I’m a big sport coat and jeans guy. I grew up in the ’90s so I have nostalgia for those casual cool—but still puttogether—celebrity airport pics of the time.

Jake Woolf, Style Writer @jakewoolf

“

”

There is a heightened level of confidence when I wear tailored clothing versus sportswear. I love the feeling of wearing something that was perfectly tailored for me. Tailored clothing shouldn’t feel restrictive, so that’s why I favor soft sport coats with little construction inside.

”

Tim Conlin, Creative Director @tim.conlin

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“

“

I like the idea of wearing historical pieces that connect me to a bygone era.

Kévis Manzi, Stylist @kevismanzi

”

I rarely stick with a consistent texture when I dress more formally, I feel a lot more comfortable when I’m mixing different materials in my own way. I don’t mind breaking a few rules.

”

Chris John Millington, Creative Consultant @chrisjohnmillington

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WHAT’S NEW IN TIMELESS MENSWEAR As classic as suits are, there is still evolution in style.

MR Magazine presents two tailored-clothing trend stories with real staying power—ideas that help your customer feel current without looking costume-y. These narratives give him just enough connection to fashion without pushing him into “fashion victim” territory. These are also great guides for season-less merchandising that helps tell compelling stories in-store.

Todd Snyder

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Saint Laurent

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1. Radical Simplicity A quiet rebellion dressed up as restraint, Radical Simplicity is a subversive nod to the corporate uniform at a time when the old office world feels like a relic. The traditional work wardrobe may have disappeared, but men’s desire for purposeful dressing is roaring back.

This story frames simplicity as a luxury: clean lines, roomier proportions, elevated materials, and small design shifts that make everyday staples feel intentional instead of obligatory. The look pulls from the ’90s—still minimal, but warmer and more human than the stark minimalism of the past.

Why now?

Because after years of athleisure fatigue, men want to feel put together again—but in a way that fits their hybrid lifestyles, not a cubicle schedule.

Workplace basics suddenly feel fresh because they represent structure, calm, and competence in an unstable world. Tailoring becomes aspirational again precisely because it feels unfamiliar to our everyday routines.

Must-Haves: • New Power Suit (relaxed, unfussy, confident) • The Return of Pinstripes • Fine-Gauge Knits as Underpinnings • Banker-Stripe Shirt • Double-Breasted Overcoat

Shibumi Firenze

2. Everyday Dandy Everyday Dandy embraces the renewed appetite for expressive, character-driven dressing. It’s a modern revival of the romanticism and flourish once central to menswear, now translated for men who want their wardrobes to feel personal, textured, and emotionally resonant.

This man isn’t chasing attention—he’s chasing identity. The story celebrates craftsmanship, detail, and the small style moves that communicate individuality: pattern, color, embellishment, nostalgic fabrics, and tailoring with a wink.

Why now?

Because men are at a crossroads. They’re craving self-expression, but they still respect the code and heritage of tailoring. As eveningwear influences slip into daytime and men rediscover the pleasure of getting dressed, expressive tailoring offers a bridge between tradition and personality. It also ties into the broader cultural shift toward “romantic utility”—feeling something through what you wear.

Must-Haves: • Pinstripe Suit (interpreted more playfully than in Radical Simplicity) • Printed Corduroy & Velvet • Heritage Tweed • High-Waisted Trousers • Lapel Embellishments Spotted at Pitti Uomo

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CUSTOM TAILORING:

A QUICK COURSE FOR THE MODERN SALES FLOOR

Why Custom, Why Now?

T

oday’s customer wants clothing that works for them—not the other way around. When a client struggles with fit, wants specific design details, or simply cares about expressing personal style, that’s your cue to introduce custom. What was once the domain of Savile Row insiders is now widely accessible, with MTM programs, workshop partnerships, and traveling tailors opening the door for every type of shopper.

Pro Tip: Listen for frustration. When a client says, “Nothing ever fits me right,” you’re already halfway to a custom sale.

THE CUSTOM SPECTRUM (Know This Cold) BESPOKE The gold standard. A pattern drafted from scratch, handwork throughout, multiple fittings, and total control over silhouette and structure.

Longer lead times, higher investment, unbeatable fit.

Best for: detail-driven clients or those with complex fit needs.

Pro Tip: Use the word “precision.” It resonates more than “luxury.”

MADE-TO-MEASURE (MTM) The sweet spot. An existing pattern is adjusted to the client’s measurements. Faster timelines, strong fit improvement, and plenty of personalization.

Best for: the client ready to graduate from off-the-rack.

Pro Tip: Offer three fabrics max. Curating boosts confidence and conversion.

CMT (Cut, Make & Trim) Custom Workshops Flexible and collaborative. Retailers or brands design; workshops execute.

Customization varies by vendor.

THE HOUSE STYLES (A Quick Vocabulary) Savile Row (British) Structured shoulders, defined waist, clean lines. The classic power silhouette—now more accessible via global MTM programs.

Neapolitan (Italian) Soft shoulder, high armhole, relaxed drape. Ideal for comfort-first clients or those transitioning from performance apparel.

American / Hybrid Modern, minimal structure, fabric-friendly. Easy entry point for business-casual wardrobes.

Pro Tip: When in doubt, ask the client how structured they like their jackets—this instantly clarifies which “house style” suits them.

WHEN TO SUGGEST CUSTOM • Fit issues (sloping shoulders, posture, athletic builds).

• Requests for unique details OTR can’t deliver.

• Weddings, promotions, new roles.

• Fabric-obsessed clients.

• Anyone buying multiple suits—custom ensures consistency.

Pro Tip: Always mention timeline early, especially for event-driven clients.

NEWS YOU CAN USE (Practical Selling Tips) • Keep fabric choices tight; don’t overwhelm.

• Know your vendor’s strengths and limitations.

• A quick fitting—even for MTM—improves satisfaction.

• Record every detail for perfect repeat orders.

• Be transparent about pricing tiers.

Pro Tip: The follow-up fitting is where loyalty is built—schedule it before the client leaves the store.

Best for: clients who enjoy co-creating their look.

Pro Tip: Set expectations early—CMT can vary widely depending on the maker.

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The Chicago Collective is the premier menswear show in North America. On 2 floors at THE MART, Chicago Collective hosts the top brands and retailers from around the world.

Shop the best brands, attend the iconic opening night party, enjoy exciting events and amenities.

The Women’s Edition features everything you love about Chicago Collective. Enjoy a great selection of brands, an easy to shop floor, a fun opening night party, special pop-up events and our popular buyer hotel reimbursement program.

OPENING NIGHT PARTY SPONSORED BY

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SHOW HOURS: SATURDAY PREVIEW DAY: 12:00 - 6:00 PM SUNDAY: 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM MONDAY: 8:00 AM - 6:00 PM TUESDAY: 8:00 AM - 3:00 PM

SHOW HOURS: WEDNESDAY: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM THURSDAY: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM FRIDAY: 9:00 AM - 1:00 PM

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NEW DATES. NEW DAYS.

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TAILORED CLOTHING

STRONG FOR HOW LONG?

By Karen Alberg Grossman

I

t’s interesting. Of all the factors impactcertain luxury Italian collections are now sayresonating with clients, outselling suits at a ing they’ve had enough. I want to ensure that ing sales of tailored clothing this past year roughly 4-to-1 ratio. Jack Victor remains our top seller by unit volume, thanks to its range (declining consumer confidence, inflation, with rising prices, we don’t abandon those price of price points and versatile offerings. worldwide unrest, political dysfunction, zones that have been productive for us. I don’t “On the revenue side, we continue to grow fluctuating tariffs, sourcing issues, jobs want to disappoint the aspirational customer replaced by AI…), who could have guessed because we’ve priced them out of the store.” our Oxxford and Samuelsohn businesses, but our private-label made-to-measure and that extreme weight loss would leave so many Tim Richey and Neil Guffey, from Guffey’s men needing to replace suits that no longer fit. in Atlanta and Kirbys in Tampa, carry six in-house bespoke programs continue to dominate. The combination of flexible pricing, an According to a Sunlight.com survey of 1,500 key vendors in tailored clothing at retails from U.S. adults prior to Black Friday, GLP-1 users $1650-$12,000 for suits, $1295-$9,000 for extensive fabric library, and a highly personplanned to spend more than twice as much on sportcoats. “Sales are solid,” Richey tells MR. alized experience has made these categories a “Our better goods and luxury items continue clothing as non-users. Good news indeed for standout for clients looking for elevated custom to perform at a high level.” tailored clothing merchants (except perhaps for options.”

Among his challenges, Richey cites how to those who guarantee free lifetime alterations…)

Challenges, Gonzales says, involve raising Here, MR talks to a handful of smart retailgrow traffic, develop a new client base, and awareness. “It’s about making sure people know ers across the country to get their take on what find a proper balance between tailored clothwho we are, what we offer, and the full scope lies ahead. of our capabilities. As Says Wally Naymon we approach the onefrom Kilgore Trout in year anniversary of our Cleveland, whose tailored Winnetka location, clothing is 43 percent of we still meet first-time visitors daily, many of his total volume at suit retails from $1395-$8000, whom are surprised they hadn’t discov“Seven brands make up Trey Gonzales, Smith’s Men’s Store, Lake Forest ered us sooner. Even most of this volume.

Selling especially well in Lake Forest, where are Isaia sportcoats ($4500-$7500), Sartorio ing and better sportswear. “We’re primarily a we’ve been established for six years, we regularly soft jackets ($2900-$3500), and Zegna suits custom store,” he explains. “It represents the hear, ‘I had no idea you offered all this.’ ($4400-$5500).” largest portion of our tailored business. Finding “Raising visibility around our brand and serAs for the challenges, Naymon responds great items for our RTW collection remains a vices remains a top priority. As we continue to thoughtfully. “I worry about the stock market steady effort. Of course, customer relationships grow, ensuring that clients fully understand and how it emotionally affects our client. Many remain our highest priority. Offering excepthe breadth of our tailored clothing expertise, luxury stores have enjoyed solid results largely tional product is only valid with exceptional from ready-to-wear to made-to-measure and driven by clients who’ve realized great returns in service, which we strive to provide to every bespoke, will be essential to our long-term the market. Since we can’t control the market, customer on a daily basis. There’s no better success. that element is a bit unnerving. formula for success than that.”

“Unfortunately, there’s no silver bullet for “As for growth opportunities, we continue At Smith’s Men’s Store in Lake Forest jumpstarting sales. It comes down to consisto transfer our excitement about new product Illinois, Trey Gonzales estimates tailored tently engaging our existing clients while culto our sales associates so they can passionately clothing at 25% to total volume, planned at tivating new ones. Over the past year, we’ve present to their clients and create momentum 26-28% next year. He carries 11 vendors, 7 of learned how to make trunk shows more effecfor the season. It’s all about the team.” whom are core. Key suit pricepoints are $798tive, not just for selling, but for connecting What’s needed to jumpstart sales? Naymon $5998; sportcoats run $698-$5798. with customers and educating new clients talks about “a sense of reality when it comes to “Sales this fall have been exceptionally about what we offer. Consistent, thoughtful prices. I’ve recently heard about luxury clients strong, driven by the continued expansion of engagement remains the key to growth. At the expressing strong resistance to unconscionable our assortment and our growing presence in end of the day, picking up the phone or texting pricing. Clients who had been passionate about the market. Blazers and sportcoats are clearly your customers is the best way to boost sales.

“At the end of the day, picking up the phone or texting your customers is still the best way to boost sales.”

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Updated heritage: the country gentleman at Ravazzolo.

Classic sophistication: warm patterns and textures at Jack Victor.

“Looking ahead, we’re keeping a close eye on fashion trends and exploring new partnerships that make sense for our clients. This season, we’re excited to bring in Eleventy, a brand that fills a niche by offering both sportswear and tailored clothing. It’s a natural fit for clients who want elevated casual pieces, and it gives us a way to introduce new clients to tailored clothing.”

Carla and Terry Felumb from Mister Guy in St Louis report healthy business driven by soft sportcoats (up 7 percent), particularly from Jack Victor and Canali. Tailored clothing (including made-to-measure) represents 44 percent of store volume, planned at 40 percent for 2026. Suit prices range from $1095 to $4495; sportcoats from $895-$3995.

Carla notes challenges that include narrowing vendor structure (Editor’s note: numerous retailers are aiming to be more important to fewer brands) and on-time deliveries. Her candid opinion on prices: “For all the talk

about price no longer mattering, we believe it still does.”

Lindsay Morton Gaiser from Andrisen Morton in Denver does 42 percent of her menswear volume in tailored clothing, planned

“”

I don’t want to disappoint the aspirational customer because we’ve priced them out of the store.

Wally Naymon, Kilgore Trout Cleveland

at 45% for 2026. She carries eight clothing vendors at suit prices of $1395-15,000, sportcoats at $995-$13,500. “We’ve been selling basic suits very well, from Canali to Isaia. We’ve also observed renewed interest in patterned

sportcoats, with strong sell-thrus from Isaia, Zegna, and Canali. LBM and Tombolini have been tremendous additions to the assortment from a price perspective.”

Among her current challenges: too few style changes in market offerings. “We’re constantly striving to remain relevant with interesting style updates, always seeking what’s new, in and out of our vendor matrix.”

Another goal at Andrisen: to offer clients not just beautifully curated assortments but also experiences to remember. “We’ve seen growth in our MTM business, so we’re teaching our customers how to build clothing wardrobes made exclusively for them.”

Asked what she needs from the market, Lindsay doesn’t hesitate. “I never thought I’d say this, but I wish our vendors would reassess their pricing structure. Being a luxury business, we don’t see much price resistance, but this year has given me reason to shop the market with closer attention to prices.”

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TAILORED CLOTHING

CATCHING UP WITH

MEN’S WEARHOUSE

A conversation with Jeff Useforge, SVP and Chief Merchant, Men’s Wearhouse

By Karen Alberg Grossman for their first interview suit. Then of course we want them for their wedding, and for office and weekend wear. We’re proud to be the solution to all of life’s special moments, even outside the tailored world.

To what do you attribute your growing business these past 12-18 months?

I believe it’s due to the growing number of back-to-the-office mandates. Customers don’t know what to wear to the office these days. We offer them numerous solutions, some mixing sportswear and tailored pieces. And strangely enough, our tie business has been phenomenal, especially considering the fact that we don’t see many guys wearing ties. Our average neckwear retails are at $59.99 to $79.99, similar to our prices on dress shirts.

Men’s Wearhouse stores celebrate tailored clothing for all stages of a man’s life.

How much of your business is store brands vs national brands?

Nice to meet you, Jeff! Let’s start with a little background on how you got into fashion retailing?

Current clothing business at Men’s Wearhouse is dominated by store brands; the powerhouse labels are Awearness by Kenneth Cole and Joseph Abboud. (Calvin Klein, produced by Peerless, is another top seller but we don’t own the label…) It’s interesting: our two major store-owned brands are generally perceived as national brands, which lends status and credibility. This has allowed us to maintain healthy margins since the product is not available anywhere else.

It was not my master plan; I was an engineering major in college but somehow found a job as a stockboy for Mercantile Stores, unloading boxes from a dock. I then spent some time at Kohls, followed by 11 years at JCPenney. I’m now SVP and Chief Merchant at Men’s Wearhouse.

How’s current clothing business at Men’s Wearhouse?

It’s been strong. We’ve up to more than 630 Men’s Wearhouse stores and growing, driven by rentals which now contribute 20-30 percent to total suit volume. A typical formalwear package runs $199-$249, including shoes.

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What’s the average retail on a suit at Men’s Wearhouse?

It runs in the $500 range. While the number of weddings in the U.S. has been flat, Men’s Wearhouse has been gaining market share, due partly to store closures at Macys, Kohls, and other major competitors.

Back when men wore suits to the office, the target audience at Men’s Wearhouse was Baby Boomers. Is that still the case?

No. These days, a large prom and wedding business has brought down the average age range, which now starts at 15-18 year olds.

But we don’t focus on age: our target audience is anyone who searches for wardrobe solutions.

Our goal is to get the guys who buy our prom packages to come back for graduation and then

Being able to leverage our sourcing and design talent has been another key to recent growth.

We have amazing sourcing and design teams: their leadership, style and taste level have made a notable difference in our performance.

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“”

One out of every two formalwear rentals in the U.S. is from Men’s Wearhouse.

JEFF USEFORGE SVP and Chief Merchant

Can you talk a bit about your made-tomeasure suit business: is this a growing part of overall sales?

Our custom business has gradually morphed from bankers and businessmen who had seasonal suits made for them two to three times a year, to the event customer who wants something special for a wedding or other occasion.

Our customers can now buy, rent, or design their tuxedo; made-to-measure is also a good option for atypical body types. Our tailors are

trained not just to measure, cut and sew but also to listen and adjust. Some custom work is done in our Massachusetts facility but much is produced in our modern factories overseas.”

From a fashion perspective, it seems there’s much change happening in women’s clothing but less in men’s; is this a problem?

No. I believe the looser styling that’s evident in women’s apparel is translating in menswear.

We’re clearly seeing some single pleat trousers and some looser-fitting men’s pants. We’re moving away from the very tight fits, and we’re mixing tailored clothing and sportswear. Jackets are softer, half-lined, less buttoned-up, often using fabrics with stretch. I’d estimate that tailored clothing is now 75% of our mix vs.

25% in sportswear. For sure, sportswear is now accounting for much of our growth.

How’s online business?

It’s one of the fastest growing parts of our business but tough in that in the online world, you’re competing with everyone! I look at our customer base as three groups: the ones who shop in-store only, the ones who shop online only, and the omni group that shops both. We’re finding that omni-shoppers are

the most productive and the most loyal. Our highest order-value customers are concentrated in this segment.

I notice from the few Men’s Wearhouse stores I’ve visited lately that your sellers are extremely knowledgeable without being overly aggressive. Are they on commission?

No, they’re not. But we have great training programs and we pride ourselves on exceptional customer service: it’s our Superpower. In our training programs, sales associates learn not just how to measure but how to make customers feel comfortable being measured. They receive lots of information each season from a trend and style perspective. I believe our terrific sellers are a good part of the reason why we’re gaining share in tailored clothing.

Whatever happened to George Zimmer’s famous quote: “You’re going to like the way you look; I guarantee it!”

We still rely on George’s slogan: it was appropriate then and we believe it’s just as appropriate now. We want our customers to look their best for their most important moments and for every day. It’s what drives everything we do.

VIEW FROM THE TOP Tailored Brands’ CEO John Tighe oversees all divisions of the company, and remains excited about each new store opening. “In 2025 we opened six new Men’s Wearhouse stores: in Colorado, Texas, and Florida. As we move into 2026, we have more openings planned, not just for Men’s Wearhouse but for Jos. A. Bank and K&G as well. These new stores are a way for us to bring our commitment to exceptional service and incredible breadth of product to these locations.”

Tighe also talks about localizing assortments and experiences. “One of our key strategies is to localize our

assortments and experiences so they are unique to the communities we serve.

We do this for both new and existing stores, plus we’re committed to providing a robust eCommerce experience.

Our goal is to continue delivering for our customers’ important moments.”

A serious point of pride for John and Jeff: their commitment to donate funds to U.S. veterans in need. The company’s Threads of Valor campaign in support of Veterans reached more than $16 million in donations since the campaign launched in 2022. This year alone, through customer contributions and $1 million in additional funding

from Men’s Wearhouse, contributions were almost $5 million, with more than 950,000 unique customer donors.

That’s a lot of important moments to celebrate. Thank you for your service, U.S. Veterans!

John Tight, Tailored Brands CEO

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Roemyl is wearing a suit from Paisley & Gray, shirt by Unfeigned, and shoes by Sanders. His tie is by Paisley & Gray, and pocket square, Atelier Munro. The sweater is by Universal Works, and his backpack, Maison de Sabre. Lapel pin by John Varvatos.

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Yannick’s entire outfit is from Isaia, shoes from Di Bianco.

Neil is wearing a sportcoat by Vince, trousers by Noyoco, shoes by Gola, and a shirt by Hold NYC. His pocket square is from Atelier Munro. Bags are both from Bosca.

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Ian is wearing a tuxedo by Atelier Munro, a sweater from Hold NYC, and a scarf by Churchill & Co. The pocket square is the stylist’s own. Shoes are also Atelier Munro.

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Angus is wearing a suit

by Canali, T-shirt by Velva Sheen, and shoes

by Gola. His accessories are from Mara Peralta.

Hat by Isaia.

Max is wearing a suit from Ted Baker, a sweater by Unfeigned, and shoes from Florsheim with vintage accessories.

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Daryl is wearing a tuxedo, shirt, tie, and cummerbund, all by Atelier Munro.

His pin is by John Varvatos and his shoes are by Di Bianco.

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Brady is wearing a suit from Bugatchi, a shirt from Hold NYC, Sandals from Isaia, Sunglasses from Rosa Rims, and belt from Maison de Sabre. His tote is from Front Street General.

Styling & Production: Jahn Hall Photographer: Marko Kalfa Styling Asst: Dave Gustafson & Jason Frometa Photo Asst: Georgi James Models: Daryl, Neil, & Mitch @ NY Models, Maximillian & Angus @Click, Aaron @ Crawford, Brady @ Soul, Yannick @ State, Ian @ Marilyn, Roemyl @ Wilhelmina

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Aaron is wearing a suit from LBM, a shirt by Kardo, shoes

by Di Bianco, belt

by Mara Peralta, and jewelry by John Varvatos.

Mitch is wearing a suit from LBM, a shirt from Atelier Munro, and shoes

by Isaia. Sunglasses are from Silhouette. The tie, pocket square, scarf and cummerbund are the stylist’s own.

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AWARDS

Photos by Marko Kalfa

JOIN US AT THE 19TH EDITION OF THE MOST COVETED & CELEBRATED EVENT IN THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY...

MR AWARDS | TUESDAY | JULY 21 | GOTHAM HALL | NYC ADVERTISING & SPONSORSHIP INFORMATION: LIZETTE CHIN, SVP/GROUP PUBLISHER: Lizette.Chin@wainscotmedia.com CHARLES GARONE, ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER: Charles.Garone@wainscotmedia.com

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LAST WORD

STRONGER TOGETHER Catching Up with the Italian Trade Association’s Alessio Nanni

By Karen Alberg Grossman

E

veryone knows Alessio Nanni, the handsome young Italian who’s building awareness for the ItalianTrade Agency (ITA) brands while charming his way across the country. Here, we catch up with him to talk about life, fashion, tariffs, and the compelling ITA presence at the Chicago Collective.

Rumor has it there will be a ski chalet gathering at the ITA hospitality booth at the Chicago Collective. True?

Ah, who told? Yes, every season we change up our Lounge area within the Italian Pavilion and this season, there was a natural tie-in to the Olympics excitement. Few Americans are as familiar with the snowy mountain vistas in northern Italy as they are with the southern seaside towns or larger cities–or even Tuscany.

But ski culture is part of the Italian DNA–an incredible mix of luxury, fashion, and fun. The Milano Cortina Games will juxtapose one of the fashion capitals of the world against some of the most breathtaking mountains in the Dolomites. ITA is working to bring that experience to our hospitality lounge.

From a fashion perspective, what key trends can retailers expect from ITA exhibitors at the show?

This season, ITA will sponsor more than 64 ‘Made in Italy’ brands at Chicago Collective.

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We expect a big emphasis on mixed textures and textiles–chunkier knits, velvet, cashmere, and double denim. It’s Fall/Winter, so obviously we’ll see lots of outerwear–including some interesting throwback styles inspired by vintage aviation and military jackets. I think the “prairie-toned” earthy neutrals like brown, sage, ivory, evergreen will play largely in the Fall ’26 collections. That leaves room for accessories that really pop–from silk ties and pocket squares to cashmere socks, our brands are not shying away from statement colors and patterns.

As a fashion aficionado, what was your most recent purchase, and what will you buy next?

I’m really into jackets and coats in leather or shearling, or mixed-material constructions with an edgier or more refined aesthetic than a standard puffer. I love chunky cable-knit sweaters, turtlenecks, layered cardigans–all types of knit layering pieces, even knit polos. They’re ideal for creating depth and comfort without losing style.

Will there be a special ITA event at the upcoming Chicago show?

Of course! We can’t release details just yet, but it’s widely known that the best party on Monday night is with the Italians! It’s always a fun experience to watch designers, retailers and press mingling away from the show floor–it’s

a crescendo that always ends in singing and dancing! It’s become a highlight of the show and within the industry. We’re very proud to foster these meaningful moments.

What other projects have you been working on lately?

Throughout this past year, I proudly led several major beauty and fragrance initiatives across New York, Los Angeles, and Miami, bringing Italian excellence to the U.S. audience. As for NYC, I sense a new energy that clearly indicates the city is coming back! I’ve made it a priority to get to a few Broadway shows, and I’m truly inspired by all the supper clubs popping up around the city.

How is the current tariff situation impacting prices on Italian goods?

The conversation around tariffs is constantly evolving. Italian brands that are best positioned to navigate uncertainty are the ones who’ve built personal relationships with their retailers. That’s why shows like Chicago Collective are so important: genuine relationships built over time grow the fruits of real partnerships. When both sides problem-solve, we are stronger together.

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