MR Magazine: July 2015

JULY 2015

MR AWARDS A DECADE OF EXCELLENCE NYFW: MEN’S PREVIEW

NORDSTROM / ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA / BRUNELLO CUCINELLI / JOHN VARVATOS

We’re humbled to be in the company of exceptional brands like Brunello Cucinelli, John Varvatos and Ermenegildo Zegna. To our many friends in the fashion world, more than 65,000 wonderful Nordstrom employees and everyone at MR, thank you for this honor.

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Fall for spring: this Brunello Cucinelli sportcoat exemplifies this season’s suffusion of typically autumnal tones.

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MR AWARDS Honoring the industry’s biggest game changers: Nordstrom, Brunello Cucinelli, Ermenegildo Zegna and John Varvatos.

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#NYFWM

The inaugural event everyone’s talking about.

DRESS YOUR AGE?

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Michael Macko addresses the age-old conundrum.

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MOVE

Activewear and performance fabrics take the lead.

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HOW____WORKS Catching up with the CFDA’s Stephen Kolb.

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MR SCENE

The who, the what and the where.

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GAME CHANGERS Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement

ONES TO WATCH New and noteworthy in American menswear.

Also in this issue: 6 Editor’s Letter, 18 Clothing Overview, 20 Furnishings Overview, 22 Footwear Overview, 94 Spring 2016 Mood Boards, 100 Fashion, 108 Trade Show Calendar On our cover: Rag & Bone JACKET; Public School SHIRT; David Hart PANTS; Brixton HAT. 2

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Dress Shirts and Neckwear

{ MR }

MASTHEAD EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ______________________________________________________________________________________________Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 710-7422 KARENA@MR-MAG.COM MANAGING AND MARKET EDITOR _______________________________________________________________________________________________Elise Diamantini (212) 710-7429 ELISED@MR-MAG.COM FASHION DIRECTOR ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Buckley (212) 710-7424 WILLIAMB@MR-MAG.COM WEB EDITOR __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Harry Sheff (212) 710-7436 HARRYS@MR-MAG.COM COPY EDITOR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________Jillian LaRochelle (212) 710-7442 JILLIANL@MR-MAG.COM EDITOR-AT-LARGE ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Michael Macko MICHAELM@MR-MAG.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITER ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Kissel (805) 693-5838

ADVERTISING PUBLISHER EMERITUS ________________________________________________________________________________________________Stuart Nifoussi (212) 710-7407 STUNIFOO@MR-MAG.COM PUBLISHER _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin (212) 710-7414 LIZETTEC@MR-MAG.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ______________________________________________________________________________________________Michelle Brown (212) 710-7413 MICHELLEB@MR-MAG.COM ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE _____________________________________________________________________________________________Chelsea Richardson (212) 710-7440 CHELSEAR@MR-MAG.COM DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS ___________________________________________________________________________________________Samuel Johnson (212) 710-7421 SAMUELJ@MR-MAG.COM ADVERTISING COORDINATOR _____________________________________________________________________________________________Donna Doyle (212) 710-7417 DONNAD@MR-MAG.COM

BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC. CHAIRMAN & COO ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Mac Brighton PRESIDENT & CEO _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Britton Jones CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Christine Sullivan VICE PRESIDENT, MENSWEAR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin

ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Hans Gschliesser DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Peggy Eadie ART DIRECTOR ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Cynthia Lucero DESIGNER ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Jean-Nicole Venditti EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE________________________________________________________________________________1384 BROADWAY, 11TH FL., NEW YORK, NY 10018 (212) 686-4412 FAX: (212) 686-6821 BUSINESS OFFICE __________________________________________________________________________________________________50 DAY STREET, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 853-6015 FAX: (203) 852-8175

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT/OWNER, MARIO’S Wayne Drummond ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Doug Ewert _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________CEO, MEN’S WEARHOUSE Dan Farrington______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP David Fisher ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, OUTLETS, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Tom Ott_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________VP/GMM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE David Witman ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________EVP/GMM, NORDSTROM

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MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published six times a year (January, February, April/May, July, August and November) by Business Journals, Inc. 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 143678. Subscription for the U.S. $34 one year, $53 two years; Canada $63 one year, $95 two years (Canadian currency). Foreign $102, Air Mail. Single copies: U.S. $4.00; Foreign $4.00 plus postage. Claims for undelivered copies not honored after 30 days from publication (90 days for overseas). ©2015 Business Journals, Inc. Address correction requested. Postmaster send address changes to MR, P.O. Box 47370, Plymouth, MN 55447-0370. Printed in the USA.

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Congratulates Nordstrom for the MR Magazine Retailer of the Decade Award.

{ EDITORIAL }

“To improve is to change; to be perfect is to change often.” —Winston Churchill

I’m the first to admit it: I don’t like change. I’ve been married to the same guy for 40 years, worked at the same company for 35, lived in the same house for 33; I’ve even been wearing the same color lipstick (Revlon’s Softsilver Rose) for I won’t tell you how many years…

So needless to say, when recently-named publisher Lizette Chin came along with her vision to modernize MR magazine, to make it more visually powerful, more consumer-y, more exciting, with bigger images, less type, more contemporary fonts, more professional photography, more fashion, I was skeptical. After all, the essence of MR magazine has always been words, not pictures. Retailers say it’s our content—business analysis, in-depth interviews, retail surveys, industry roundtables, provocative profiles, hands-on practical advice—that’s kept them reading and reacting for the past 25 years.

The good news: With the help of our brilliant creative director Hans Gschliesser, talented art director Cynthia Lucero, dedicated web editor Harry Sheff and our entire MR team (now including fashion maven Michael Macko), we’ve been able to update our look and maintain our essence, both in print and online. We hope you enjoy our new format, and the many new features we’re introducing with this issue and on our website. All of us at MR are totally energized, determined to bring you everything menswear in the most compelling way possible. As always, we want to know what you think, and how we can better serve you.

The bad news: I’m still wearing Softsilver Rose (when my son Michael was four-years-old, I played a witch in his nursery school play; he was the only kid not afraid, recognizing me beneath the green makeup because “no one else would wear that tacky lipstick…”), but who knows: maybe one change will stimulate others. And change, as we all know, is the law of life.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

THE ENERGIZED MR TEAM Left to right: William Buckley, Chelsea Richardson, Lizette Chin, Elise Diamantini, Michael Macko, Harry Sheff, Stu Nifoussi; Seated: Michelle Brown, Karen Alberg Grossman

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PHOTO BY KEITH BARRACLOUGH PHOTOGRAPHY

MAKEOVER

WE SALUTE OUR ESTEEMED LONGTIME PARTNER, NORDSTROM , AS RETAILER OF THE DECADE.

{ OPINION }

DRESS YOUR AGE

Recently, while scrolling through my Facebook feed of cute kitten videos and the obligatory jealousy-causing posts from exotic locales (Oh no: there’s UberChopper gridlock in Cannes!), I came across a post, “When Old People Dress Like Hipsters.” I held my breath and scrolled through the 21 photos, mostly from Pitti Uomo (The Sartorialist loves a grizzled Italian), breathing a sigh of relief that I wasn‘t included.

But what does it actually mean these days for men to dress their age? If 50 is the new 30, and Barneys is using Christie Brinkley and Pat Cleveland in its new SS/15 ad campaign “Better than Ever,” and an 80-year-old Joan Didion is the new face of Cèline, and 69-year-old Cher is the new face of Marc Jacobs, then why can’t a man over 40 wear a summer scarf and not cause an internet sensation? After all, for years we’ve had the double standard to our advantage: men were told we get better with age; even model Aiden Shaw (whose image is included in the mentioned piece) didn’t start modeling until 45, an age when most female models are well into retirement.

I think a large part of this confusion lies with the industry itself. “We want to skew younger, but not alienate our existing customer” has been the mantra of most menswear brands for the past few years, for at least as long as men have been the new women. So models are younger, fits get slimmer, prices remain high, so even if I can afford it, I don’t know if I can wear it without risk of looking like “mutton dressed like lamb.”

Personally, I don’t think I dress my age, which is 51, but what does a 50-year old-man dress like? Or rather, what is a 50-year-old man expected by society to wear? Double-pleated khakis, a navy blazer and a blue oxford shirt? I’m someone who works in menswear because I love fashion. I love to shop, to go to the tailor and have things altered, to work with designers on having things custom made. I worked in menswear when I’ve been fat, and when I’ve been sample size. I’ve worked in corporate environments and very relaxed ones. (As I type this, I’m wearing Free City sweatpants and a James Perse long-sleeve French terry T-shirt, both covered in dog hair.)

I spoke with one of the people photographed in the article mentioned: Michael Rubin, designer/founder of menswear brand Krammer & Stoudt. “I thought the piece was funny, but the truth is: there’s less and less lifestyle separation between the man in his 50s and the man in his 20s. Middle-aged men still surf, skate, listen to punk, rock or EDM (electronic dance music) and so on. It’s one of the things I’m trying to address with Krammer & Stoudt.”

As for me, I’ve discovered that with age, more important than what I wear is the confidence with which I wear it.

I now know my body, what looks good and what doesn’t. I don’t look good in polo shirts and prefer T-shirts; I prefer a cardigan to a crewneck. I used to suffer to wear the uncomfortable “footwear of the season;” now my shoe wardrobe comprises mainly Birkenstocks, vintage Nikes and Vans. I now choose comfort first, or at least a close second.

“There’s less and less lifestyle separation between the man in his 50s and the man in his 20s.”

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ALL PHOTOS BY GUERRE/GUERREISMS.COM

BY MICHAEL MACKO

CONGRATULATIONS

NORDSTROM RETAILER OF THE DECADE

{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} }

“Continue to dare.”

Garment Lineage Stephen Ferber, Stephen-F

Like his father and grandfather, Stephen Ferber got his start in the retail business, but unlike his family, decided to go out on his own and create his own brand. He launched Stephen-F as a small menswear collection in 2010, and with the help of his partner Alex Lundqvist, debuted a full collection for fall 2015 comprising furnishings ($70 to $200 retail), sportswear ($300 to $500), tailored clothing ($280 to $1,500) and outerwear ($200 to $7,000). The brand is currently sold in Europe, but he’s opening the first Stephen-F store in New York later this year. Here, we talk to Ferber about his Swedish roots, the differences between the American and European markets, and his plans for growth.

On what the American market can learn from the European market: So many European stores like Dandy Parisien in Paris and Le Marché Aux Puces in Madrid have exceptional service and products. However, there are a lot of similarities between New York and Milan in regards to the brands and vibe at retail.

On what’s next: We’re planning to open another store in 2016. I want to continue to meet interesting people and create beautiful product. We have finalized the 2016 summer collection and we’re introducing accessories.

On his biggest challenge: So far it’s been to continue to dare. Dare to make a highend brand from scratch. Dare to continuously be selective and stick with our strategy.

But mostly, dare to fail. —Erik DeFruscio

Active Elegance Donrad Duncan, EFM

Donrad Duncan grew up in a creative environment. He always loved to paint and his friends and family encouraged him to get into design, so he attended Parsons in New York. After working for a few large menswear companies, including Victorinox as head designer, Duncan ventured out on his own and created EFM, a men’s lifestyle brand focused on luxurious functional fashion.

On why he launched EFM: We are living in a health-conscious, global society that’s becoming smaller because communication and technology is more available. I wanted to create a brand that gives the user a sense of connection and suits his lifestyle. EFM is Engineered For Motion. It transforms high-performance fabric into luxury sportswear to create this look of active tailored elegance. Heavy outerwear ranges from $1,500 to $1,800, blazers are $600, sweaters are $400 and up, base layer knits range from $248 to $350, bottoms from $248 to $300. We’re being selective with retail but are currently selling to stores like David Lawrence in Seattle, C’H’C’M in New York and Martin Patrick 3 in Minneapolis.

On what’s next in menswear: Retailers need to be directional, but approachable.

We’re just at the beginning of performance. Guys are thinking differently and it allows us designers to create classic products and traditional tailoring with functional materials. Fabrics are transforming: we have the ability to create lighter, water-repellent fabrics with stretch and recovery in sophisticated silhouettes. Moving forward we’re seeing a sense of simplicity and cleaner lines. —EMD

“EFM is Engineered for Motion.”

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{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

Redefining Menswear Liam Maynard & Dan Maynard, Noble Gentlemen Trading

Liam Maynard (pictured left) and his brother Dan are two young, ambitious Canadians who sought out unknown menswear brands and introduced them to the North American market. Now Noble Gentleman is the North American distributer for Zanerobe, Neuw, Rains and Barney Cools. Here, we chat with Liam about how they broke into the business and made their own rules.

On how Zanerobe’s “Sureshot Chino” became one of the first salable joggers: In 2010, T-shirts were really big and we saw that coming to a halt. So we switched gears, launched the Sureshot and lost 85 percent of our business. But if you want to evolve you have to take a risk. So we worked with stores, stylists and influencers on how to wear it. We weren’t just selling pants, we were creating a look. It gave us ammunition to engage with customers. We worked with rad boutiques like Boys Co., Simons and Holt Renfrew and now we’re one of Holt’s top performing brands.

On how to reach Millennial guys: It’s all about being aware and working with cool people. Also, it’s ok to say no. If you say yes to everything you’re going to dilute the brand. For example, music producer and DJ, Diplo is one of our brand ambassadors. He has a Sunday night party in Vegas called “Night Swims” at the XS and now Zanerobe makes all of the staff uniforms. But it’s an organic thing. A lot of our ambassadors found the brand on their own because they wanted to wear it. Dan is more of the peacock. People were always stopping him on the street asking where he got his clothes. Guys used to get made fun of for standing out with how they dressed; now it’s cool. —EMD

“It’s all about being aware and working with cool people.”

Between the Sheets Greg Shugar, Justin Mikita & Greg Winner, Thread Experiment

As he roamed the Las Vegas trade show floors, Greg Shugar, founder of The Tie Bar, realized he’d discovered a gap in the market. “It dawned on me that there’s no bedding brand dedicated to men,” he recalls. Shugar teamed up with Justin Mikita and Greg Winner on Thread Experiment, a new company that markets bed sheets ($98 to $208), comforters ($168 to $218) and duvets ($158 to $198) to men. Here, we talk to Shugar about how they’re getting guys to care about their sheets.

On why they launched a men’s bedding brand: Men spend a lot of time on the way they look with grooming and clothes. We think the bedroom should be an extension of the way a man looks.

With so many choices out there that are pink and turquoise with flowers and lace, it doesn’t give men many options.

On how they’re introducing it to the market: We launched the brand with an exclusive sale on Gilt and the results exceeded our expectations. The best part was that Gilt featured the brand in the men’s section rather than home, which confirms my belief that men are indeed seeking out bedding that appeals to them. The first collection is built around 100% cotton, 300 thread-count sheet sets with duvets, comforters and shams in masculine colors and patterns. —HS

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“We’re creating a category that doesn’t exist.”

CORNELIANI.COM

{ MR SCENE }

THE SPOT

RALPH’S POLO BAR WELL WE FINALLY MADE IT to dinner at the Polo Bar (thanks Bob Chitel), Ralph Lauren’s hot new clubhouse-inspired eaterie on 55th Street in Manhattan, the restaurant where bouncers forbid you to step through the door without a reservation, but where reservations are virtually impossible to come by.

But elitism aside, the place is relaxed and beautiful, the food excellent (try the corned beef sandwich or the bacon cheeseburger), the service (once inside) friendly and attentive and the drinks wonderfully evocative of another era. While we didn’t spot Bradley Cooper or Charlie Rose on our recent Monday night visit, our fellow diners were amiable and lively, making for a very upbeat evening.

Book ahead and check it out. —KAG

SWEET

LOCAL BUZZ

Cheers to making new friends and business opportunities.

WE MET Claire Marin, co-founder and

her partner Cathy a hive as a gift. She turned

beekeeper of Catskill Provisions, at an Ascot

that fasciation into a company and launched

Chang press preview last February in New

Catskill Provisions in 2010 as a local purveyor

York. She was making cocktails for guests

of honey-infused goods like whiskey, maple

using her delicious honey whiskey. I am not

syrup and chocolate honey truffles in Long

typically a whiskey drinker, but I enjoyed and

Eddy, New York. She partners with local

devoured the entire drink. Marin says her

companies to expand into other categories:

fascination with bees began when she gave

Finger Lakes Distilling LLC produces her honey whiskey. Showcasing and sampling other local, artisanal companies at a menswear event like Ascot Chang is an amazing way to introduce your customers to something new. Why not see who’s making unique products in your local area and team up with them for an event at your store? Collaborating with like-minded customer base and introduce your store to a whole new consumer. catskillprovisions.com —EMD

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TOP: GETTY1; BOTTOM: I-STOCK

people in other businesses can help grow your

JACKVICTOR.COM

CONGRATULATIONS TO NORDSTROM FROM YOUR FRIENDS AT JACK VICTOR LIMITED

{ MR SCENE }

BEAUTIFUL VIEWS

NEW YORK NIGHTS

BERRY, BERRY NICE! Why not venture outside of Manhattan to Williamsburg’s Berry Park? This German beer bar offers small bites, brunch and beautiful views of the Manhattan skyline.

4 Berry Street, Williamsburg —ELISE

THERE IS NOTHING better than sipping post-show cocktails at one of New York’s rooftop bars. Make sure to check out some of the MR editors’ favorite haunts while you’re in town for market.

WILLIAM: The only thing better than fantastic tacos and tequila, fantastic tacos and tequila on a rooftop. New York’s Hudson Hotel has hit that three-way sweet-spot with their rooftop taqueria, Tequila Park: 40 kinds of tequila, tacos like the Crispy 48hr Carnitas or Chipotle Lime Chicken, and margaritas including the Pickled Pineapple and the Peated Paloma. 356 W 58th KAREN: I love the Kimberly Hotel: 145 E 50th and Spyglass at the Archer Hotel: 45 W 38th (try the Angry Mango). The Rooftop at The Refinery Hotel has amazing

views and great drinks: 63 W38th (For reservations contact Chris Byrne: cbyrne@refineryrooftopnyc.com).

At the Standard rooftop: 848 Washington, you can sip your cocktail in a hot tub!

HARRY: Bar 54 on top of the new Hyatt Times Square is the highest rooftop hotel bar in the city, and it has great views of both the Hudson and the East River. But what excites me most is the cocktail menu: designed by Julie Reiner, owner of Clover Club in Brooklyn and a major force in the New York bar scene for years, it has a rotating list of classics, refreshing crowd-pleasers and inventive new cocktails.

Try the Tree House, a stirred mix of rye, rum, macadamiainfused syrup and bitters.

135 West 45th.

THAT WORKS

An office reinvented.

WE WERE introduced to Manhattan’s NeueHouse at

a press preview for The White Briefs x Nick Wooster collaboration. The inviting, industrial David Rockwell designed space first opened in 2013 as a members only, shared workplace for creative entrepreneurs and their teams (up to 10 people) in the film, fashion, design, publishing and art industries. This collective work environment “integrates sophisticated design, hospitality, cultural programming and an eclectic membership.”

Members are offered more than just a place to work; it’s a space to collaborate, inspire and be inspired by other like-minded “solopreneurs.” Nestled in the heart of Madison Square Park, the main floor also features The Canteen, a café directed by famed chef Gregg Drusinsky, offering seasonal, locally sourced food. And no worries if you don’t live in New York, NeueHouse plans to open outposts in Los Angeles and London later this year.

NeueHouse.com —EMD

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Above: Gallery workspace Left: Atelier Office

NEUEHOUSE ATELIER OFFICE , DON FREEMAN; GALLERY WORKSPACE, ERIC LAIGNEL VIA ROCKWELL GROUP

SHARED SPACES

CONGRATS TO OUR FRIENDS AT NORDSTROM Here’s to the great ride we’ve had together, and all the adventures to come.

Cheers to all other 2015 MR Award winners as well.

{ TAILORED CLOTHING }

SUITING SEASON

If Elmer Fudd were more concerned with “suiting fabrics” than “shooting wabbits,” he would certainly be interested to know that suits are well...in season.

While the bulk of the tailored clothing business is suits built to serve men year round (give or take a layer or two), a sale of one of those does nothing to drive business for the rest of year.

“I’d say seasonal fabrics represent seven percent of annual clothing volume in department stores and I’m being kind,” says president of Peerless Clothing Ron Wurtzburger. “Most guys wear the same suit in January snowstorms that they do in August heat waves. Retailers need to get more aggressive pushing seasonal clothing: they could double the business.” Fortunately, more receptive retailers in both the luxury and contemporary markets are having better results than most department stores. “Yearround weights are ideal for our clients who wear suits every day,” says Suitsupply VP Nish de Gruiter. “But we’ve seen a strong increase in our seasonal fabrics, currently at 15 percent of the business and rising.”

Adds Bergdorf Goodman fashion director Bruce Pask, “Blends like wool/linen, silk/linen, and also the interest that those blends create are driving a stylish seasonality in tailored clothing. We are seeing these very deep, rich seasonal textures,

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which definitely enhance interest and create an excitement in the wearer that there is a big market for.”

Macy’s VP and men’s fashion director Durand Guion is also seeing a shift to seasonal suits. “Seasonal fabrics are creating a new look on the floor between seasons,” he says. “Our customer has been replacing or updating his tailored wardrobe with slimmer silhouettes and is open to experimenting with seasonal fabrications.”

Tom Julian, men’s director of Doneger, takes these observations one step further, explaining, “I am intrigued by how many retailers are offering cotton blazers, linen halflined or unlined jackets and sporty nylon year-round now.”

VP and men’s fashion director at Saks Eric Jennings agrees. “There has been a shift away from the season-less fabrics to seasonal suiting: cottons in the spring, linen in the summer, corduroy in the fall, flannel in the winter; suits are the new sweater: different weights for different seasons. I see the market moving in that direction.”

PHOTO BY BRAD BRIDGERS

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

See us at MRKET New York Booth #859

Photo: Sebastian Taheri spaceandlight.la 213.537.0814

Maxman Inc. 877.922.7664 baroniprive.com

{ FURNISHINGS }

TAKING A STAND

Astute specialty merchants are setting themselves apart by designing their own shirts, either under private label or collaborating with brands.

BY HARRY SHEFF

As the furnishings market continues to evolve, better men’s specialty stores are finding new ways to stand out.

For Drinkwater’s in Cambridge, Mass., it’s a combination of a strong custom shirt program, private label filling-in where brands fall short and a point of view when it comes to neckwear.

“We’ve been doing custom shirts with Individualized for going on nine years and it’s a huge part of our business,” says Gary Drinkwater. “We’re on track to do 1,000 shirts this year, which for a store that’s only 1,000 square feet is huge. Last year we did about 700. It’s just keeps growing. I tell our customers this is a way of buying where there’s no compromise—you get everything you pay for. With a custom shirt, you get everything you want.”

With neckwear, Drinkwater’s is committed to wovens. “We like the depth and texture of a woven tie, it just has more luster,” he adds. “And we tell our customers it’s more of an art form than a piece of fabric that’s been printed.”

Another retailer that took the private label route—and took it even further—is Martin Freeman in Sarasota, Fla. “The Britalia Collection is London meets Milan,” explains Harold Freeman. Adds Nelson Martin, “We went to the trouble of having the name ‘Britalia Collection’ both trademarked and registered, and we protect it and promote it.” It’s a private label collection of dress shirts ($250 to $300 retail), ties ($135 to $150) and jackets ($1,500 and up). The Britalia dress shirts (made in Italy) have a tailored fit and are offered in several collar styles. Much of the neckwear, made in Como, Italy, is exclusive—Martin Freeman bought the strike-offs from the mill.

Coachman Clothiers in Knoxville, Tenn. takes a stand on their dress shirts: for the last four years, they have carried only cutaway collars. “We all gravitated toward cutaway collars when we were doing custom shirts for ourselves and the guys we thought were really cool were doing the same thing,” says Coachman’s Jeffrey Openshaw. “So rather than trying to convince guys to try it, we thought, let’s not even offer anything else.” Coachman does custom shirts with Skip Gambert and Individualized and carries Circle of Gentleman and Gitman Bros.

Michael Mombello, PVH Neckwear’s SVP of product development & design, says business is picking up after a slow spring, with bow ties and pocket squares selling strong, and prints and seasonals driving the business.

“Men are getting increasingly creative about how they put themselves together,” says Mombello. “We’re seeing really strong business in alternative fabrications: we’re printing on chambray, wool flannel and linen. There are two camps: the guy who’s embracing solid ties, and that could mean solid chambray, knit or proper silk with a patterned shirt. Then there’s the other guy who’s wearing a solid dress shirt and buying ties in plaids and checks. We make it seasonal anywhere we can, in linen, cotton or silk blends for spring.”

From left to right: BKLYN; Alexander Olch; Tommy Hilfiger

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PHOTO BY BRAD BRIDGERS

Market Update

HUNTERBOOTS.COM

{ FOOTWEAR }

KILLER SHOES

Footwear is flourishing, but there’s no one trend driving the business.

BY ELISE DIAMANTINI

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FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Noah Waxman, Lacoste, To Boot New York

ing back to the days of Puma’s 96 Hours collection. I’m just not seeing that amount of thought in most lines these days and I miss it. For spring 2016, I want to move forward with new colors, patterns, and a return to interesting dress shoes. Think Euro-chic, not trashy.”

Emerging brands like Filling Pieces, Zespà, ETQ and Ami are selling on East Dane, the contemporary menswear e-commerce site launched by Amazon. The website’s accessories and footwear buyer Jon Wong adds, “Season-specific silhouettes such as sandals and espadrilles are doing extremely well. And for spring 2016, sneakers will continue to dominate the market. We've seen sneakers as the focus on both the runway and on the sales floor.”

Scoop’s high to low pricing strategy for sneakers is working and as men’s VP/GMM Bryan Reynolds explains, “We’re selling designer sneakers like Margiela, Golden Goose and Del Piano, all the way down to Nike and Adidas at the same rate. Nike has always been a trailblazer and the shoe to have this year is Adidas’s Stan Smith.”

For spring 2016, zero in on a few key footwear trends that will work with your store’s dress and casual apparel offering. Since you need to stock sizes, narrow and deep is the way to go.

PHOTO BY BRAD BRIDGERS

As pants are worn slimmer and shorter, guys are more able to show off their shoes. But with so many options and trends, buying footwear for your store can be tough to get right.

Glen Taylor of Taylor Richards & Conger explains, “We’re having success with certain items. Casual shoes like sneakers from To Boot New York in suede and leather have been excellent. Also, a soft terry clothlined slip-on in navy suede from Rossetti was the first thing out this spring. We’ll be looking for interesting takes on sneakers and other casual ideas that work with dressy sportswear. The most difficult shoes to get great sell-through on are leather bottom dressy shoes, but we need them to accommodate our suit business so we’re working with some made-to-measure ideas like Nettleton, an old American brand, now made in Belgium. We’d like to replenish some of the better casual ideas, but most of the available stock is the slower moving classics.”

For Randy Brewer at Convert, men’s shoe business has been tough this season and his customers are looking for brand names rather than trends. “I’m hoping this is a temporary condition that will pass, as we thrive on the new and exciting. We are selling Timberland Earthkeepers, Wolverine 1,000 Mile and Tretorn Skymra. The trend is basic and practical, but I’m hoping that changes. I would really like the market to focus on design and experimentation: melding comfort with style. I’m think-

CONGRATULATIONS TO NORDSTROM BEING HONORED ASHONORED RETAILERASOF THE OF DECADE CONGRATULATIONS TO HUDSON’S BAY COMPANYFOR AND LORD & TAYLOR FOR BEING RETAILER THE YEAR

ADVERTORIAL

Non-Denim, Denim Denim continues to receive a facelift for spring 2016. Nondenim five-pocket models are still the most exciting and newest development in the denim arena for the season ahead. Premium denim brands like 34 Heritage are using linens, washed twills and cotton stretch fabrics to breathe life into their denim assortment, which creates an added luxury, comfort and stretch. Something unique 34 Heritage has created for spring is their luxe sporty jogger fabrics, which incorporates Thermocool fibers that help regulate body temperature.

ritage

34 He

RETAIL REPORT

Gary’s of Newport Beach, Ca. We asked Garyʼs president John Braeger for his take on denim trends.

DENIM TREND

How important is denim to your total menʼs business?

Denim is a definite lifestyle here in Southern California. Weʼve seen a significant increase in denim sales from last year; itʼs performing much better than our casual pants. Weʼve learned that youʼve got to commit to the category; you just canʼt sell a few styles. If you make an impactful display and create a strong presentation, denim sales can actually equal clothing sales. It also helps drive in a younger customer, which we then can convert to other items.

Whatʼs the hottest thing in denim at retail these days?

Slimmer, darker washes have been strong. White has also been a big seller this season, along with lighter washes. Stretch fabrics are almost a necessity these days: guys just will not buy denim if it doesnʼt move with them.

How are you doing with non-denim five-pocket models?

About 50 to 60 percent of our denim business is in colored or non-traditional denim five-pocket models. These fabrics are great for both slim and heavier set guys. They love the stretch and softness that traditional selvedge woven jeans donʼt provide.

REPORT Powered by Heritage

Color Refresh A soft approach in color highlights the washed-out hues for spring 2016 as the “new neutrals.” According to a denim color forecast from global trend forecasting agency Fashion Snoops, “chalky gray continues the pastel feel of the palette this season into a ʻbarely thereʼ wash complement, while faded bleached blue tones emerge for spring.” The report also mentions that “orange and pink tones continue as key directional accent colors in the menʼs denim market.” Transitioning to lighter colorways for spring is nothing new, but achieving this subtle but refreshing take on spring is key to exciting your customer this upcoming season.

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34 Heritage

GAME CHANGERS

ALL ILLUSTRATIONS BY DANIEL VELASCO.

MR HONORS THE

Nordstrom John Varvatos Brunello Cucinelli Ermenegildo Zegna

MR MAGAZINE ALSO HONORS PAST RECIPIENTS OF THE UPTOWN/DOWNTOWN AWARDS Lifetime Achievement/ Hall of Fame Awards BILL AND JACK MITCHELL MITCHELLS FAMILY OF STORES CRAWFORD BROCK STANLEY KORSHAK DAN LEPPO BLOOMINGDALE'S DAVID FISHER BLOOMINGDALE'S DAVID WITMAN NORDSTROM GERALD AND KENT GUSHNER BOYDS HARRY AND LARRY ROSEN HARRY ROSEN IZZY EZRAILSON UP AGAINST THE WALL JOHN MALOUF MALOUF'S MARIO BISIO MARIO'S MARK WERTS AMERICAN RAG MARTIN GREENFIELD MARTIN GREENFIELD CLOTHIERS PAT MON PERE SR. PATRICK JAMES RUSS PATRICK NEIMAN MARCUS SAUL KORMAN KORRY'S SID SHAPIRO SYD JEROME TOM KALENDERIAN BARNEYS NEW YORK TOM OTT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE WILKES BASHFORD WILKES BASHFORD

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A.K. Rikk's Akira American Rag Andrisen Morton Ascot Shop Atrium Badowers Barneys New York Base Bauman's Beecroft & Bull Bergdorf Goodman Bloomingdale's Boyds Butch Blum Caruso Caruso Charles Spiegel Circa 2000 Coffman's Cuffs Darien Sport Shop David Wood Drinkwater's Dugger's Elton's Fred Segal Man Garage Garmany Gary Waters Garys Gene Hiller Gentry Ltd. George Greene Godfry's Gorsuch Ltd. Gotstyle H. Men Haberdash Halls Harley's (TX) Harleys (WI) Harrods Harry Rosen Holt Renfrew Hub Hubert White James Davis Jeffrey Jimmy Au’s John Craig Khaki's of Carmel Kilgore Trout Kositchek’s Lansky Bros.

Larrimor's LASC Len Druskin Levy's M Penner Malouf's Mario's Michael K Mitchells Family of Stores Mr Porter Mr. Sid Need Supply Norton Ditto Oak Hall Odin Over the Rainbow Parsow's Patrick James Perlis Peter Elliot Pitkin County Dry Goods Pockets Puritan Cape Cod Raleigh Limited Riccardi Robert R. Bailey Rodes Ron Herman Rothmans Rubensteins Saks Fifth Avenue Sams Scoop NYC Sebastian’s Closet Shaia’s Sid Mashburn Simons Stag Stanley Korshak Sy Devore Syd Jerome Taylor Richards & Conger The Claymore Shop The Closet The Clotherie The Foursome The Met Theodore Traffic Unionmade United Arrows Vinnie's Styles Von Maur

Congratulations to Nordstrom, Retailer of the Decade.

{ GAME CHANGERS }

FULL SPEEDAHEAD MR salutes an industry in transition, and those taking it to a new level.

“T

his is a tough business; it’s getting tougher all the time, which demands a lot of humility,” Nordstrom co-president Pete Nordstrom confides in an interview (page 46) in this special awards issue of MR. And don’t we know it! Just keeping up with the pace of change these days is exhausting; figuring out the right moves in uncharted territory is not for the faint of heart.

That said, we are an industry of visionaries, of iconoclasts, of risk-takers, of dreamers, and of those who break the rules. We are honored, in the pages that follow, to recognize the 2015 Game Changers: Nordstrom (Retailer of the Decade), Ermenegildo Zegna (Most Influential), Brunello Cucinelli (Most Inspirational) and John Varvatos (Most Innovative). Each has, in his own unique way, eschewed the status quo to create something truly different. Read what they did, how they did it, the risks and the rewards in the pages that follow.

We also want to acknowledge, in this issue and at our MR Awards 10year reunion dinner on July 20th, all 120 of our previous retail honorees (almost all of whom are still in business). Their common denominators: a well curated mix of “the best of the best,” passionate sellers who love what they do (John Malouf has been helping men look fabulous in Lubbock, Texas for 66 years, Milton Penn on Cape Cod for 64 years, Saul Korman in Toronto for 63 years, JL Shaia in Birmingham for 60-plus years), exceptional customer service, and a willingness to renovate, innovate and shake things up. In this special section, we share their success secrets, their mistakes, their most outrageous sales and their plans for the future.

To those who inspire us: Thank you, and keep dreaming big!

“We are an industry of visionaries, of iconoclasts, of risk-takers, of dreamers, and of those who break the rules.”

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{ BY THE NUMBERS }

Fiercely Independent

Fast facts on menswear specialty stores (based on a survey of Uptown/Downtown Award winners) HELPING HANDS

AVERAGE ANNUAL MENSWEAR SALES VOLUME

Ka-ching!

$4.2

Avg. # of tailors

12

MILLION

range: $500,000-$120 million 12% of respondents do $10 million-plus 43% of respondents do $5 million or less

FAMILY TIES: Average number of generations ownership = 2.2

RATIO OF

MEN’S TO WOMEN’S

4:1

44% of respondents do menswear only 16% of respondents do more women’s than men’s

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(0-100 range) % of respondents with five or more tailors: 34%

15%

Silver Spooners

are 4th or 5th generation

37%

Entrepreneurs

are 1st generation

Age of Wisdom Avg. age of management

(range 35-68) Aging out?

Avg. age of sales associates: 43 (range 20-84) Next Generation! % sellers under age 40: 27%

Party animals! # of events per store annually: 14 (Range: 5 to 20)

Faithful followers

11,312

Average # of Customers annually

Too Many Options?

52

AverageNumber of menswear brands.

(56% of stores carry 50 or more brands)

Avg. # million $ sellers: 2.1 (range: 0-47!)

% stores with no million $ sellers: 35%

Average # of years employment of longest tenured sales associate:

29 years

(RANGE 1 YEAR TO 64 YEARS)

26

Average number of employees per store (RANGE 3 TO 1,000)

Size Matters

Avg. square feet: 6,267 (500-300,000 sq. ft. range) % of stores larger than 10,000 sq. ft.: 24%

2014

volume

2004

THE SUPERSTARS!

EXPERIENCE COUNTS

Avg. # of neckties sold 10 years ago vs. today: 2,125 in 2014 vs. 5,291 in 2004

HAPPY FEET Avg. # of pairs of shoes sold annually:

1,200 (range 0-65,000)

MR-Mag.com MR

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SWEATERS {{MR AWARDS}}

RETAIL

TALES

Past honorees share their favorite memories and plans for the future.

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KEN GUSHNER, BOYDS

MARIO BISIO, MARIO’S

On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: Up until about four years ago all of our sales staff was unionized. There aren’t many stores in the country that can relate to that because it was something grandfathered down from another era.

About four years ago our sales associates decided to vote out the union. And we were fine with that because it was long overdue; it wasn’t benefitting anyone. Be that as it may, during holiday season the union groups decided to hold major protests outside our store with the big blow-up rats, and people yelling and screaming on microphones to boycott our store, saying we were union busters. It was very upsetting and certainly wasn’t good for business. I even have one of the flyers they were distributing in my office that says, “Unfair labor practices at Boyds” with a picture of myself and my two brothers-inlaw with big X’s over our faces. So at this point we can laugh, but at the time we didn’t think it was very funny especially because it wasn’t even true. The people themselves decided to vote against the union!

On his most memorable sale: We got a call from a concierge in Seattle who wanted to send us a VIP customer at 2:30 a.m. So of course we agreed and immediately ordered food and drinks to the store. Turned out it was a very famous actor (hint: Saturday Night Fever, Pulp Fiction, Grease) who was in Seattle to work with engineers at Boeing Field on his new plane. He ended up spending two hours in the store; he was totally delightful and bought lots of clothes!

SAM BEN-AVRAHAM, ATRIUM On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: The day a life-size giraffe (not real!) arrived for decor/merchandising and we realized we didn’t have the space. He’s now sitting in our warehouse, waiting to make his debut.

LENNON CARUSO, CARUSO CARUSO On changes he’s making to the business: We’re revamping our security tag to make it sleeker and smaller. We completely renovated our denim bar to create a lounge with comfortable seating and we’re already

{ MR AWARDS } seeing great results. We finished it two months ago and people like that they have a place to sit and chill. We’re also abandoning our current POS system in favor of something faster and are constantly looking for new ways to display product.

DAVID HODGKINS, DAVID WOOD On his most memorable sale: It was the last day of the month and I was about $14,000 behind. A new customer, hedge fund president, walked into the store and announced “I have a lot of homes and I need a lot of clothes.”

JON COTAY, AKIRA On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: It was year two or three and I was at a trade show. Everyone was in a certain brand’s booth and I think I got caught up with the excitement because I spent $30,000 in that booth and the brand ended up going out business the next season. That experience taught me that brands come and go. We have to do our research and be more patient.

TODD EPPERLY, HALLS On his most memorable sale: A well-known rock star was in the store and wanted some scissors to cut off the arms of a very expensive leather jacket. He cut the arms off right in front of us and talked about where he bought the jacket at his concert.

JIM MURRAY, A.K. RIKKS On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: Biting off more than we can chew is a constant battle as I have a big appetite for special and extravagant! Our grand opening party for our store’s new location three years ago was planned in two weeks. Two weeks! As a result we had to make some decisions on the fly. I won’t say how much we spent but hiring a world-renowned DJ was something not very well thought out from a budget standpoint. In the end, however, everyone had a great time and we laugh about it now, but it took some time to accept the idea that we could have done better.

DON ZUIDEMA, LASC On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: Last year at our annual Halloween party, we

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were only 30 minutes into the event and the generator blew up and all the lighting, music and production elements went dark. Guests were pouring into the venue and there wasn’t a backup generator. I had visions of closing the party and not only disappointing all our guests, but possibly losing a lot of money. Fortunately, the production crew used extension cords and ran enough power to get the music back on, the bars back open and enough lighting to create a truly Halloween mood for the rest of the night.

Crisis averted!

KEN GIDDON, ROTHMANS On his most memorable sale: Personally, Clarence Clemons of the E Street Band.

JERRY KAMHI, HABERDASH On changes he’s making to the business: We’re consolidating our State Street store’s brick and mortar efforts to a single remodeled and rebranded concept shop we believe will truly focus the Haberdash brand, drive sales and put us on a path to another 10 years.

LT SALINAS, ELTON’S On his most memorable sale: A major rock legend purchased a bullet studded leather coat by LeMarque to wear at the past Grammys. He loved the coat so much and received so many compliments at the event that he stopped by Vegas again on the way home and purchased another one...no names because that would be indiscreet but he’s a “sharp dressed man.”

DAVID PERLIS, PERLIS On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: Hurricane Katrina was clearly our biggest catastrophe and most stressful time in our company’s history. Unfortunately, we will never be able to laugh about it but we have a strong sense of pride about our recovery and how it made us a stronger company.

CRAWFORD BROCK, STANLEY KORSHAK On his most memorable sale: Years ago, Elizabeth Taylor came into the store on a Sunday; we’re not open on Sundays but of course we opened for her. She came with her

entire entourage and her little Yorkie named Precious. She was looking at $100,000-plus sable coats, but our associates could focus on nothing but Precious stomping around on the expensive furs. I won’t tell you what we wanted to do to Precious...

JACK MITCHELL, MITCHELLS FAMILY OF STORES On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: It wasn’t a catastrophe, but it was very embarrassing. About 20 years ago, Bob and I were invited by the Ferragamo family for dinner during Pitti Uomo at their fabulous Palazzo on the Arno River in the heart of Florence.

The invitation said “Dress: Formal.” So what do we know? We were relatively new to the Italian scene so we schlepped our black tuxedos to Florence. As we entered, we bumped into Derrill Osborn from Neiman Marcus, who was always properly dressed in fashionable attire. He was wearing a very dapper dark business suit. I should have known what was coming: I immediately saw that our friends from Neimans, Barneys and Loro Piana were wearing dark business suits, and we were in tuxedos.

I took a big deep breath and Derrill pulled me aside saying, “Jack, formal in Italy means dark business suit.” So Bob and I went over to Mrs. Ferragamo, the grande dame of the Ferragamo family, and we apologized for our error and she said, “Boys don’t worry at all,” and made us feel comfortable.

It was the beginning of the long valued relationship between the Mitchells and the Ferragamos, but it was a major blooper. I’m still shaking my head and laughing about it, as we all did after a few glasses of the finest Ferragamo wines that night.

BILL MITCHELL, MITCHELLS FAMILY OF STORES On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: This was really about averting a huge disappointment rather than a catastrophe.

It was Christmas Eve. I was at my son Chris’s house and when I got back home around 11:15 p.m., I saw that I had a voice message. I played the message and this woman said she left a wrapped tie at Mitchells and asked if I could deliver it. I called her back and said of course, thinking

{ MR AWARDS }

that the delivery would be about a 10 minute drive. It turned out to be an hour each way.

The more I thought about it, I remembered what Ed and Norma Mitchell preached to our family: never disappoint the customer no matter how big or small the sale.

And we gave them his address and phone number. He was of course apprehended.

CARL SLESINGER, LARRIMOR’S

KEN SHAIA, SHAIA’S

On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: Years ago, before computers, a gentleman came in to order a pair of shoes; we of course took his address and phone number.

When he came to pick up the shoes, Eddie, our shoe man, took him to the register. As Eddie began to ring up the sale, the guy pulled out a gun and demanded all the money in the register. Eddie, a former Marine, told him to get lost. The guy then shot off the gun into the ceiling. As you can imagine mayhem ensued and the guy ran out of the store. No one was hurt. We called the police and after getting his description, the cops asked if we might know where he is.

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TODD BARKET, UNIONMADE On his most memorable sale: A pair of Red Wing boots to David Beckham.

On his most memorable sale: One of my more memorable moments was about 20 years ago.

We had a gentleman come into the store and asked if we could put Bill Withers on the stereo and single malt scotch to drink. Luckily, there was a record store across the street. He requested the whole nine including seven outfits consisting of hats, socks, shirts, pants, shoes, pocket squares, etc. He never looked at the price of anything. He never told me where he was going or what he was doing. He wouldn’t give me any information: no address, phone number, or further contact information, etc. After helping select a wardrobe, he then walked me over to the luggage department and asked me to pick out

a Gurkha bag that would fit all of the clothes and pack it by 5 p.m. for an evening flight.

About five years ago one of his closest friends asked me if I remembered that particular sale.

Come to find out, he had been diagnosed with a terminal disease. It was a dream of his to come into our store, buy a wardrobe, and spend seven of his last days traveling with his closest friends.

SID MASHBURN, SID MASHBURN On his most memorable sale: It was 2007, we’d been open only seven weeks, and it was just me, my friend Randy and our tailor Dau in our 3,000 square foot shop. Late on a weekday in December, very cold, already dark, a bit sleety and I get a phone call from South Carolina in this kind of frantic voice asking if we were still open. We said, of course, come on in, and 30 minutes later a large family rolled in: mom and dad were 70-plus, their very stylish 30-something daughter and her cool husband, and their equally stylish son.

CONGRATULATIONS NORDSTROM THANK YOU FOR YOUR OUTSTANDING PARTNERSHIP

A DIVISION OF

{ MR AWARDS }

Somehow they had heard about us (I was like, “uh… from where?”) and came to check us out. The dad was wearing a Juicy track jacket and a flat-brim Yankees cap…unironic. In a super country-cool, low-key but excited way, he just started throwing jackets on over the Juicy and landed on a beautiful Sartorio jacket. He said “I’ve never heard of this brand, but I kinda like it.” Anyway, about 45 minutes

later, we had a pile of clothes ready to be rung up and shipped. The family from SC packed it up, said goodbye, and wished us a Merry Christmas. I think the dad was still wearing the jacket when they walked out. I immediately called my wife Ann and said, “I think we’re going to make it.” We’ve grown a lot since then, but we’ve learned that the currency of encouragement spends longer

Congratulations Nordstrom Retailer of the Decade

than the cash. We’re grateful for people like that family—people that trust us and support us and like what we’re doing—because that’s the only way we can continue to grow and serve them even better.

DANNY MARSH, SY DEVORE On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: I purchased the store in August 1, 2007. We have a large contingent of entertainment industry clients. I mortgaged my house and family’s future on my purchase of the store.

On September 1, 2007, the Writers Guild went out on the longest strike in their history, basically shutting down the industry I live off of. As soon as the strike ended, the economy tanked and our business dropped off 50 percent from the date I bought the store. I learned, by fire, how to run, grow and sustain a business.

JON BRAEGER, GARYS

Looking forward to many more Decades of Greatness!

MAJESTIC International

MajesticInternational.com

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On his most memorable sale: An older gentleman came in looking for washable, inexpensive cotton pants which we do not carry and left buying $20,000 worth of clothing. Our sales associate almost by accident put a coat on his back and the customer said this feels good. The sales associate then pulled out all the garments he thought would work in his size and said what do you think? Customer said, “I will take them all and can I see what you have in shirts and ties?” Goes to show that you can never tell what a customer is capable of doing.

LARRY ROSEN, HARRY ROSEN On his most memorable sale: This was about 30 years ago when I was working the floor at the Bloor Street store. We were at the end of the season consolidating merchandise and I noticed that we had three of the exact same Zegna suit in a 46 tall. And that’s all we had in 46 tall—after all, it’s not a popular size.

So as luck would have it, in walked this very famous movie star, Donald Sutherland, who was in Toronto filming a re-make of Invasion of the Body Snatchers.

He told me that he needed a suit for a movie and that he happened to like Zegna.

So I brought out the Zegna suit in 46 tall, he tried it on, it fit him perfectly and he

J. S. BLANK & COMPANY, INC. BARBARA BLANK

Some Things Withstand the Test of Time.

Three Generations of Elegant Neckwear.

Made by Hand In New York City.

loved it! But there was one problem: he said that he couldn’t buy it unless we could get two more of the exact same suit for the body doubles.

So I sold him all three of these Zegna 46 tall suits, plus three shirts and three ties. I couldn’t make this up.

DAVID RUBENSTEIN, RUBENSTEINS On his most memorable sale: A guy walked into the store and very casually mentioned that he’d been wanting to shop with us for a long time. He then said that his house recently burned down and he ended up buying $120,000 worth of suits!

MIKE ZACK, CIRCA 2000

15 West 36th Street New York, NY 10018 212.689.4835 Email: barbara@jsblank.com See Us At: MRket New York Booth 963 I Chicago Collective

I

MRket Las Vegas

On his most memorable sale: I had a guy call and ask me to pick out some clothing that I thought he would like. So I picked out six suits and five sportcoats and he came into the store, looked them over and said, “Okay.” I said, “Okay, what?” And he replied, “Okay I’ll take them.”

Now I happened to know that this guy was retiring so I said to him, “Joe, you don’t really need all this. Why are you buying so much?” And he told me that he was moving into a new house and didn’t want to move any old things. That was a nice and unexpected sale.

SAUL KORMAN, KORRY’S On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: The Northeast Blackout of 2003: Korry’s remained open for business. We were using flashlights to serve our clients!

HAL LANSKY, LANSKY BROS. On a catastrophe he can laugh about now: In the 1970s, my father and I purchased over $1 million of Faded Glory merchandise with a handshake. During the fall, six semi-trailers arrived at our office during a freak snow storm of 18 inches and we just looked at each other and had no idea what to do with it all. At that time, we didn’t have a big enough warehouse to store and process all of this merchandise. We had to rent a warehouse to unload the trucks. We said to ourselves, “What the hell are we going to do with all this merchandise?”

Obviously, this was way before open to buy reports, so we decided there was nothing

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FALL 2015 • ANNIVERSARY COLLECTION

WWW.SOUTHERNPROPER.COM

else to do but be rockstars and hit every major city in the Southern region. We had big fairground sales in Nashville, Little Rock, New Orleans, Memphis, Jackson, and still couldn't move all of this merchandise. We hired alcoholics at recovery missions (first mistake) to help us unload the trucks and stock the venues. Those same people that helped us unload the trucks were breaking into the venues during the night to steal from us (second mistake). We sold a lot of merchandise at low prices and collected a lot of money in cash.

However, it was way too much work for the efforts we put into it.

After our road trip, we completely killed the brand in every city in the South. One story that comes to my mind about this adventure was that we had so much cash on us we knew we had to quickly deposit it.

Our first stop in each city was to find the nearest bank and tell them we were doing a test run to see if this city would work for a new store in their area just to get an account open. They greeted us with open arms thinking we would be using their bank in the future. One day, I was at the teller’s window with thousands of dollars and my dad was so tired from all of his hustling that he fell asleep in a chair at the bank. One of the bank officers came up to my dad, woke him up, and told him he couldn’t sleep in the bank. My dad pointed at me while I was depositing huge amounts of cash and the officer quickly asked my dad if he could get him a pillow. I guess you could say we were the pioneers of the original “pop-up” shop concept.

DAVID LEVY, LEVY'S

BENSON

mrmrsbenson.com mrmrsbenson.com @mrmrsbenson

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On his most memorable sale: About 20 years ago, a client who had recently had his leg amputated came in to purchase a pair of Zanella pants. The sales associate helped measure the length of the pants. Upon delivery of the pants, the client discovered that we had reversed the pant bottom alteration and shortened the wrong leg to the length of his stump. He came into the store furious, so I visited with him and discussed our terrible mistake. We became friends as he told me about the infection and problems that caused the loss of his leg. We were able to replace the pants (correctly altered the second time) and I personally delivered them to him. In addition, I donated the problem pants to a needy patient at a rehab center. So we helped a stranger and made a new friend too.

WA R M C O N G R AT U L AT I O N S T O M Y F R I E N D S AT NORDSTROM ON BEING C H O S E N A S R E TA I L E R OF THE DECADE.

#TEDLOVESNORDSTROM

MR AWARDS/Game Changers: Retailer of the Decade

NORDSTROM THE COURAGE TO CHANGE Despite its conservative heritage, Nordstrom has evolved into a fashion leader, risk taker and true retail innovator. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

A rendering of the Pacific Centre flagship in downtown Vancouver, BC

Back in the day, during boring summers when he worked at the store to save money for basketball camp, Pete Nordstrom and his brother Erik would throw shoes at each other in a dark stockroom. “I was probably 13, Erik was 12, and our summer job was to work in the women’s shoe department, mating up singles.

For hours on end, we’d go through boxes upon boxes, trying to match pairs. After a while, we’d go a bit crazy and start throwing shoes at each other. I can picture my dad walking in at exactly that moment (he was often lurking

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around, checking on us), and getting pretty mad. He’d admonish us to be respectful of the merchandise, to try hard, to take our jobs seriously. This was so important to him, which left a huge impression on me.”

Years later, Pete, Erik and their older brother Blake are Nordstrom co-presidents.

No longer throwing shoes at each other, they allegedly don’t even argue all that much. As Pete explains it, “We have tremendous respect for the decision-making process here. We don’t need to be involved in everything; our egos are

not that big. So we empower our people and give them tremendous latitude to execute.

When issues do roll up to us, we discuss them, seek out our commonalities, and generally agree. When we don’t, the person who feels most strongly usually prevails.”

Among the recent decisions putting Seattle-based Nordstrom on an upward course: a newly aggressive stance on acquisitions, collaborations, and expansion. As Pete explains it, it wasn’t until around 2000 (when the company had been through a tenuous period of

Business today is driven by customers’ appetite for newness.”

—Pete Nordstrom missteps and precarious sales) that they realized they needed to change. “Ironically, it was our lack of success at the time that forced us to evolve. Had we continued to do what we’d always done, we might not have made it. The success we’ve had since then came from a new curiosity, a willingness to learn from others, that wasn’t engrained in our culture. It took us awhile to figure it out.

“This is a tough business; it’s getting tougher all the time,” Pete reflects thoughtfully. “Maybe I’m just getting older or something, but it requires a lot of humility these

part: they’d been in place from the beginning, but the practices needed to change. I know it’s all obvious stuff, but that doesn’t mean it’s easy to implement when you’re turning around a company that’s always done things a certain way. Fortunately, we had the support of our dad and the Board to do whatever was necessary.”

Asked to define those core values and best practices, Pete doesn’t hesitate. “We put the customer front and center of all decisionmaking. Once you do that, it makes the rest easy! And since customers’ needs and wants

aligned around our philosophical approach and it’s pretty liberating.”

Embracing change, Pete reiterates, is not always easy for a 118-store company, which is why collaborations have been so important.

“It’s all about doing things that will be compelling and relevant to our customers. There’s always new stuff out there: you don’t have to invent it, you just have to find it. We look for companies with compatible long-term goals; we test in select doors and we try to act like a small nimble retailer. For examplie, the Topshop/Topman collaboration has been great for

A typical trunk from Trunk Club

days. It’s rewarding but tough: every day is different and you need to apply a lot of energy to reach your goals. I’d say my greatest challenge at the moment is to get the entire company aligned around our goals: to be smart, fast, nimble and customer-focused. In other words, my job is to inspire people to keep evolving. To do this, we needed to get really clear on identifying our core values and best practices to get our people eager to take the journey with us. We needed to learn together. Actually the core values were the easy

change, it forces us to change. You can’t have a company whose number one goal is to improve customer service without making customer service a foundation element in all decisions. It was important that we backed up our goal with relevant actions, which wasn’t always easy since those actions sometimes conflicted with what employees wanted to do. To this day, not all our decisions are always popular, but as long as we’re clear about what they are, and about the fact that they’re customer-driven, it gets people

us: it not only attracted new customers but it also made our regular customers happy. They wanted fashion, they wanted newness, and Topshop product wasn’t widely available in the States. Plus, it’s amazing how well known the brand already was to our customers: we didn’t have to run big marketing campaigns; we put it out and it sold. Yes, they do things a little differently which has sometimes been challenging to us in terms of our practices and our egos. But when you’re open to learn, really good things can come of it.”

MR-Mag.com MR

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Nordstrom Timeline Highlights 1901: Founded by John W. Nordstrom, who arrived from Sweden in 1887 at age 16 with $5 in his pocket. After work-

ing in mines and logging camps, he heads to Alaska in search of gold and returns to Seattle with $13,000. Opens a store with shoemaker Carl F. Wallin based on service, selection, quality, value. (First day sales: $12) 1933: Nordstrom grows into the largest independent shoe chain in the U.S. (8 stores and 13 leased departments) 1971: Nordstrom goes public 1973: Opens the first Nordstrom Rack; total company sales surpass $100 million 1988: Nordstrom opens its first East Coast location: Tysons Corner, McLean, Va. 1998: Launch of Nordstrom.com 2000: Nordstrom acquires Faconnable 2005: Purchases a majority interest in Jeffrey. “I learned a lot about merchandising from working with

Jeffrey Kalinsky. Having small stores forces editing that leads to a ‘best of the best’ assortment,” says Pete Nordstrom.

2011: Nordstrom buys HauteLook 2012: Online sales reach $1 billion; Nordstrom partners with Topshop/Topman 2014: Announces plans to open full-line stores in Canada, and a Manhattan store in 2018 2015: Blake, Pete and Erik Nordstrom named co-presidents of the company

Pete describes the recent Trunk Club acquisition as another good fit. “It was a natural for us because of their customer-centric model. If we didn’t buy them, we would have figured out how to do it ourselves. (The decision always comes down to: Can we develop this ourselves? How long will it take? How much will it cost?) Bottom line: if there’s a way to improve customer service, we want to be part of it and Trunk Club is really good at it. Plus, they do a lot of business. Yes, it’s different from how we do business but that’s a good thing. With a big company like ours with all this history and legacy it’s often hard to change. So it’s truly exciting to work with a start-up that’s energized, ambitious, nimble, focused on knocking down barriers and making things happen. It reminds us of what this business should be about, and it’s been truly inspiring to our team.”

Asked about retailers he most admires or strives to emulate, Pete cites nearly every single one of his competitors. “I’ve had the good

fortune over the years to meet, and learn from, many of our competitors, and I believe I have a good relationship with all of them. I know, and admire, Karen Katz and Jim Gold: we have tremendous respect for what Neimans is doing. Also for Ron Frasch, Steve Sadoff and Marigay, formerly at Saks, for Josh Schulman at Bergdorfs, and Mark Lee at Barneys... I believe we have a certain mutual respect and camaraderie: I truly enjoy knowing these very smart and interesting merchants. I realize we’re all trying to do the same thing, but for some reason it’s pretty friendly.

Among other mentors: Mickey Drexler (we’re working with him on Madewell), Sir Philip Green at Topshop (there’s so much to be learned from him), Paolo De Cesare, CEO and chaiman at Printemps and Andrew Keith, president of Lane Crawford. For me, these relationships have been super valuable: even if we don’t compete directly, we share many of the same challenges so we can learn a lot about great ideas and solutions to problems,

We put the customer front and center of all decision-making. Once you do that, it’s pretty liberating. It makes the rest easy!”

From left to right: Erik, Blake and Pete Nordstrom

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interpreting these in ways that work for us.

We don’t always need to invent stuff: we just need to interpret from great role models.”

Among the more controversial matters of the moment, curious minds want to know, why did Nordstrom switch from their postseason semi-annual sales to more frequent inseason promotions? Pete downplays the controversy. “The half-yearly sales came from footwear. Shoes turned twice a year so you clear out twice a year, which was great until we got more into the apparel business and turns started speeding up (even in footwear).

We’ve always matched price with competitors so we were marking down by department throughout the year anyway. So we decided we might as well do it in an inclusive way and consolidate events on a more regular basis.

It’s not about finding a way to boost volume by having more promotions and sales: that’s not what we’re about; we care more about newness and flow. So rather than have separate sales for each category, we now have all departments participate six times a year, and as it turns out, we’re actually on sale fewer days per year than we were two years ago. Of course our goal is to run a clean business but the reality is that if you want to turn fast, you need markdowns. It’s not the clearance, but the newness that drives sales.”

Is he nervous about the much heralded opening of their New York City flagship, now scheduled for fall 2018? “Yes I’m nervous,” Pete confides, surprised by the rhetorical sounding question. “This is our single biggest investment by a lot and our aspirations are huge: we want this to be one of the world’s greatest stores. Period. Of course we have an aggressive sales plan (and of course I’m not revealing it...). There’s great competition in New York City: there are great stores and they all do a lot of business, which is both motivating but daunting because they’ve been doing it for a long time and we’re just

MADE IN THE USA

W DIAMOND GROUP and PEERLESS CLOTHING congratulate

NORDSTROM as MR Magazine’s Retailer of the Decade!

Witman Wisdom David Witman has been menswear maven at Nordstrom for 26 years; here, he talks changes and challenges.

Our main challenge in menswear is simple: to stay focused on the customer, who is clearly changing.

The old adage that men don’t shop for themselves is no longer true: they’re shopping with and without their wives/girlfriends, and they want to look current.

Our target guy is 35 to 45 and his idea of dressing for work has changed. It used to be a suit, now a suit can be worn for work or play. In effect, suits are no longer a uniform, they’re an expression of personality.

And work attire now combines clothing and sportswear. Every two or three years we hear that denim is dead but that’s no longer true: denim is a staple that guys have incorporated into their wardrobes; it’s consistent business for us. And it’s not one kind of denim: it’s different models, different washes, different fits.

We believe private label is important to our mix, but we’re also a strong champion of brands. Our private label strategy is simple: to give customers great value at reasonable prices. Our underlying philosophy is that anything with a Nordstrom label must make us proud.

So far in 2015, menswear business is good: it’s beating plan. What’s hot these days is not a specific item or brand but compelling product. Trends come and go, but today’s customers are clearly seeking out newness and looks that are special. So our team is always searching for compelling product.

Beyond product, our hidden asset is the people in our stores. We hire nice people who want to make customers happy. And yes, our sales associates are on commission.

What keeps me up at night?

Losing our focus on the customer.

What doesn’t keep me up? Vendors selling direct to customers. In truth, I think it’s absolutely terrific when vendors sell direct. No one will do as good a job of telling their own story, which can only help us sell that brand.

So when a vendor opens his own store, we are truly thrilled.

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In addition to maintaining focus, another challenge is how to get the businesses younger, how to keep everything fresh. Having just turned 50, I hear many remarks about middle age but think about it, how many 100year-olds do you know? Reaching a certain age does not mean dressing a certain age, so we are totally committed to seeking out fresh compelling product for all demographics. We have a terrific team of buyers and merchandise managers with an insatiable curiosity.

Tina, Paul, Lynn and John Hall (who heads up The Rack) are truly talented: they push and prod and challenge me; I couldn’t stop them if I tried.

When a vendor opens his own store, we are thrilled.”

®

Congratulates

Nordstrom, Inc.

& The Nordstrom Family RETAILER OF THE DECADE

Crafting High Fashion Men’s Furnishings for Three Generations

631.845.2730 sales@lorenzouomo.com

When you’re open to learn, good things can come of it.”

—Pete Nordstrom

getting started here. We know we’ve got to earn the business; no one’s going to hand it to us. So we spend a lot of time looking at what others do and how they do it. Our objective is not to copy, but to determine how to deliver the best possible Nordstrom experience in the world’s most dynamic marketplace. There are things we believe we do really well, but there’s a big gap between aspiration and execution in a competitive city Nordstrom in Woodlands, Texas

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like New York. Our store has to be beyond compelling. It needs to exceed all expectations, which is occupying a big bunch of our mind share right now.”

Asked about international expansion, Pete talks about Canada, projected to represent a $1 billion sales opportunity over time.

“We’re there because we think the potential is huge. Then if we do well there, it could inspire other opportunities abroad. But this was

the most logical first step: first of all, it’s close by and easier to manage; second, we’ve had the Canadian customer shopping with Nordstrom for years and years. Yes it will be difficult: it’s challenging and of course it’s expensive, but we’re confident that we can build a fabulous business there. We have no other plans for international expansion at the moment but if the right opportunity comes along, we’re open.”

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Although the company is getting plenty of press these days, the Nordstrom family personally eschews the limelight (“Please don’t put us on the cover; it’s not about us,” Pete insists.) He does, however, answer a personal question about his wardrobe. “Okay, at the moment I’m wearing Incotex pants, a Nordstrom brand dress shirt and a Todd Snyder blazer. I like clothes, but at six foot seven, I’m often limited by what I can find to fit me. Even so, I’m dressing a lot more modern today than I was a few years ago. Menswear business these days is largely driven by fit, and fit keeps evolving. The current trend, pants and sportcoats worn slightly shorter, is certainly not a problem for me!”

2014 Full-Year Financials Total Sales: $13.1 billion Full-Line Store Sales: $7.7 billion Nordstrom.com Sales: $2.0 billion Nordstrom Rack Sales: $3.2 billion Total E-commerce Sales: approx. $2.5 billion including Nordstrom.com, HauteLook, Nordstromrack.com and Trunk Club.

Number of Stores: 118 full-line stores in the U.S. and Canada; 178 Nordstrom Rack stores. Nordstrom also owns Trunk Club, Jeffrey and HauteLook.

Growth Plans: Three new and one relocated fullline stores; 15 Rack stores this fall. Announced goal for Rack stores is 300 by 2020.

International: Two stores in Canada (Calgary and Ottawa); four more by 2017 (Vancouver this September and three in Toronto: two in 2016 and one in 2017). No plans beyond Canada, “but if opportunities arise, we’re open.”

Nordstrom Inc Financials: 1st Qtr 2015

HUGOBOSS.COM

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According to public reports, first quarter sales were up 9.8 percent to $3.16 billion; net income was off 8.6 percent to $128 million due to investments in new store openings, remodels and online initiatives. For fiscal year 2015, the company has allocated $1.2 billion in capital expenditures.

Answering questions about the figures, Blake Nordstrom virtually cites a mission statement. “The company is uniquely positioned to serve customers through multiple ways: fullprice, off-price, stores and online. This approach links our business through service, products and capabilities.”

Not overly concerned about cannibalization of full-line stores to off-price and online, Blake notes that Nordstrom is “squarely focused on serving customers on their own terms, and delivering the high level of service they expect from us.”

English Laundry congratulates Nordstrom Inc. for being named MR Retailer of the Decade

MR AWARDS/Game Changers: Most Inspirational

LOVING

LIFE Cerebral, spiritual, philosophical and generous, Brunello Cucinelli has built the most imitated collection in the luxury market. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN His success in the fashion industry is widely recognized, but it’s his passion for life that best describes him. “I’m a very normal man,” Brunello Cucinelli responds, when asked to describe himself. “I’m passionate about my beliefs and about my business. My values are simple, and I stand true to them every day.”

This statement is readily confirmed by Massimo Caronna, who directs the U.S. business.

“Brunello’s vision and the culture he’s created play a key role in our company, even before product. I joined him 20 years ago because I sensed the integrity in his handshake. I’ve watched him in Umbria and I’ve seen how he touches people. Among the many lessons I’ve learned from him: that our business is less about selling and more about respecting. And from Brunello, I’ve learned how to be who I am.”

Cucinelli’s journey from selling a small collection of cashmere sweaters to becoming one of the world’s most admired luxury clothing designers is well documented. “I started selling sweaters in my 20s with only six styles.

Soon six sweaters became 10 and the business started to blossom. From the start, the people at the core of the company have been fundamental to the brand’s success. I’ve always put them front and center, creating a workplace

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dedicated to human dignity.”

And it is Cucinelli’s restoration of his village, stone by stone, to improve the lives of his workers that makes him most proud. He explains, “The restoration of Solomeo had been a dream for quite some time; I’m very passionate about leaving a legacy beyond clothing. This restoration has given new life to a once dying town, job opportunities and a future for this part of Italy that I so love.”

In addition to expanding the Solomeo factory, Cucinelli’s foundation has started a new phase of restoration called A Project for Beauty. “This is dedicated to preserving the land surrounding the village, which is divided into three parks. The industrial park is becoming filled with color and fragrance, the Lay Oratory park now offers a youth center and sporting activities for young people, and the Agriculture Park is used for cropping vegetables, fruits, olive groves, orchards and trees; its produce will be used for local consumption and in the company dining halls.”

Bottom line, Cucinelli’s business philosophy is firmly centered on human dignity. As he puts it, “We focus on respecting people and honoring them with responsibility. With responsibility comes creativity. As a result, our

company is filled with dedicated individuals who are intrinsically connected to their work.

It’s very important to me to nurture and preserve the core values of humanity; I want my employees to have a quality of life filled with friends, family and genuine warmth.”

This sentiment is confirmed by Caronna.

“It’s important to Brunello that we become highly involved in the communities we sell, so we do many charity fashion events for our multibrand accounts. (The recent Pink Aid event at Mitchells was incredible: I couldn’t believe how many beautifully dressed women attended and how much money was raised!)

It’s also important to Brunello that all his employees have balanced lives so as hard as we work, he wants us out the door at 5:30 p.m.”

Asked about the extent to which his collection has recently been knocked off at lower prices, Cucinelli seems surprisingly unfazed.

“I’m not concerned about what others do and I wish them success in their business models.

My focus is as much about giving the best quality and service as it is about creating fabulous new collections. We strive to maintain the highest level of craftsmanship and creativity, which should allow us to stay original and authentic.”

I live every day as if it were my last but make plans as if I’ll live eternally.

I’m very passionate about leaving a legacy beyond clothing.”

—Brunello Cucinelli Asked about some recent price-resistance in the luxury market, and whether he thinks his clothing is too expensive, Cucinelli is candid. “We are not a brand that is going to appeal or be accessible to everyone, and that’s okay.

My focus instead is on creating a high-quality product that has meaning, purpose and a story at its core. Our customers want to feel emotionally connected to their purchases. We work hard to create an experience around their interactions with the brand.”

As to shopping styles of men vs. women, Cucinelli has been observant. “Men are keener to buy with a practical mentality, while looking for something that makes them feel modern and elegant. They go for quality, simplicity and feeling powerful. I find them more interested in taking style advice from our associates, whereas women prefer more freedom in their shopping. They want to feel luxurious, feminine and appreciated.”

Finally, we ask Cucinelli about his transition from a family business to part of a huge corporate conglomerate. “Nothing has changed about our company, with the exception that we are even more efficient now that we have to make time in our schedules for investors and road shows. I’m still doing the same job I did before we went public, with the same amount of dedication to product and to all our other projects.

Going public has allowed us to have a more international vision for our brand and to have experts in the field share their opinions about our projects. But with all due respect, we will still be making decisions without altering our basic philosophy. My personal goal and our corporate goal are one and the same: to see this company grow steadily and graciously into the future.”

Brunello Cucinelli Gets Personal On his inspirations: I am inspired by my books and the great men in history who wrote them. Philosophy has been my companion through life; it permeates every aspect of my being, in both my personal and professional paths.

On what makes him happiest: I am happy when I sit in front of the fire reading a great book in the quiet of my living room with my family nearby. I enjoy laughing and joking with my friends so I always make time to meet them for a weekly soccer match and then dinner. With my friends, I’ve had many moments of genuine, carefree fun.

On what makes him angriest: Arrogance.

On traits he admires: Simplicity; sincerity; good manners; respectfulness; honesty; humility; playfulness; kindness.

On his perfect day: Finding time for my mind, my body and my soul.

On his favorite vacation spot: Umbria! I’m fortunate to live in one of the most beautiful and spiritual regions in Italy.

The land, the air, the people are all a part of what I love about this country. When I’m able to stay home, that’s what I truly enjoy. But my wife enjoys travel so we often go with friends to the Isola di Cavallo in Corsica, or to Formentera. In the winter season, we enjoy skiing in Saint Moritz.

On the best advice he’s received: From my dad, who asks, “Do you want to be the richest person in the graveyard?”

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CONGRATULATIONS TO NORDSTROM AS RETAILER OF THE DECADE

MR AWARDS /Game Changers: Most Influential

FAMLIY

MATTERS

Zegna, the world’s largest men’s clothing brand, continues to influence how men dress. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

One doesn’t become the world’s largest men’s clothing maker by resting on one’s laurels. In fact, since Ermenegildo Zegna (grandfather to the current CEO) bought his father’s textile looms in 1910, the company has done nothing but innovate. They were the first to pioneer lightweight suiting fabrics and the first to embrace sportswear. They revolutionized luxury made to measure and are one of the few functional family businesses left in our industry.

“Our men’s business can only be strong if our Zegna business is strong,” maintains Bob Mitchell of Mitchells Family of Stores. “From 20 suits in 1993 when I first started buying the collection, Zegna now represents 20 percent of our total men’s clothing. They are a lifestyle brand with a taste level that appeals to a broad range of upscale customers. I treasure my twice-yearly meetings with Gildo when he peppers me with questions about anything and everything. He’s driven, highly responsive to our needs and a great partner.”

Says Murry Penner of M.Penner in Houston, “I respect their transparency. You might not always like what they say but their message is consistent and clear. What’s more, they are legitimate retailers who respect their competition by maintaining prices throughout the season. And no vendor is more profitable in independent stores.”

Adds Neiman’s Russ Patrick, “Ermenegildo Zegna continues to be the largest menswear

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business at Neiman Marcus. The Zegna family’s passion for quality and reinvention, for cultivating exceptional employees and for operational excellence, has allowed us to grow the business to what it is today. Gildo has been personally involved with Neiman Marcus for decades. Our many beautiful Ermenegildo Zegna shops are a direct result of that mutual commitment.

“On a personal note, meeting with Gildo is a highlight of every trip to Italy. He is one of the most inquisitive leaders in the industry. I always make sure I am full of Italian espresso to help me prepare for the many thoughtful questions he has on his mind! I greatly admire his constant quest for knowledge.”

Here, we speak with CEO Gildo Zegna, part of the fourth generation to run the business, about challenges, opportunities and change.

What specifically do you think differentiates Zegna from its competition?

First and foremost, our dedication to fabric innovation and our pioneering spirit have driven our success. We are unique in that we are a completely vertical, multigenerational familyrun business that is truly global. We now have a presence in over 100 countries around the world! More than anything else, our people and our collaborative culture differentiate us from our competitors. We always want to be the best at every business we enter so we strive for nothing less than the highest standard.

We all recognize the intrinsic challenges of a family business and the decreasing odds of survival with each generation. So what makes yours work?

I believe passion is most integral to our success. Also, I am constantly driven by the legacy I received from my father and the vision I would like to transmit to the next generation of the Zegna family.

What are Zegna’s most notable recent accomplishments?

Stefano Pilati’s appointment as head of design for Ermenegildo Zegna Couture was a bold step for our business. Moves like this set Zegna apart as a pioneer in menswear, continually pushing boundaries. With Stefano, we are evolving menswear and expanding our product range to address a more fashion-oriented consumer.

Last year, we launched “Made to Measure Casual Luxury” so we could offer men customized sportswear solutions to personalize their wardrobes. This new service is a testament to our constant search for innovative new products that balance personal elegance with everyday functionality. And it’s already clear that our customers love it.

Our latest innovation within Z Zegna is Techmerino, our natural high-performance wool project, now offered as a complete wardrobe. Techmerino is highly breathable and provides perfect thermo-regulation against both

MARYELLEN MATTHEWS

With Stefano Pilati as head of design, we are evolving menswear and expanding our product range to address a more fashion-oriented consumer.�

hot and cold climates, keeping the skin dry and the body temperature constant as it maximizes the natural features of wool.

What are your current goals and future plans?

Coming off our recent opening in the Miami Design District earlier this year, we are focused on expansion in major markets. Our next re-

tail opening will be at Brookfield Place, which is playing a key role in the makeover of Lower Manhattan. This will mark our third retail store in NYC. Also, we’re always trying to enhance our customer experience. To keep up with the evolving demands of the consumer, we’ve increased our focus on omni-channel initiatives.

What are your challenges in today’s marketplace?

The changing dynamic of international customers is certainly a challenge today, due in part to currency fluctuations.

This past year we’ve seen volatility in the currency markets, which requires us to navigate wisely.

And of course, the role that online plays in today’s business challenges us to re-think how we provide the best shopping experience for our customers. Inevitably that leads us to an omni-channel approach, which we’re embracing as the new reality of retailing.

You were among the first companies to go direct to consumer. How have your wholesale accounts reacted to this? Where do independent specialty stores fit into your business model?

Balance is the key to an effective distribution model. Essentially, each channel has a role to play. We consider independent retail stores a core part of the Zegna brand in the U.S. Department stores are also important as are, of course, our own stores. It’s a virtuous circle where we all help each other and most of our accounts can appreciate this. For Zegna, which is predominantly retail-driven around the

Gildo Zegna Gets Personal Your joys in life: Nature and sport Your mentors over the years and what you learned from them: My wife has taught me to achieve balance in my life; from my father I learned discipline, vision and courage.

Your philosophy of business: Continually think out of the box to take a fresh approach.

Your philosophy of life: Finding the balance between family and business.

What you know now that you wish you’d known then: With technology always evolving, this business requires constant innovation.

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world, the U.S. is a unique market in that wholesale makes up a substantial part of the business.

How are you attracting Millennial customers at your luxury price points?

I don’t believe one can generalize about Millennials: it’s not like they’re all attracted to any one thing. But the launch of the new Z Zegna this spring gave us the opportunity to speak more clearly to a new customer. Z Zegna merges modernism with our traditional roots and gives us the opportunity to innovate in ways we do particularly well. You could say that Z Zegna blends the elegance of precise tailoring with the performance of technical sportswear. Surely Millennial customers find it appealing, but in fact, the brand’s identity reflects the way more and more men want to dress today.

Our shoes and leathergoods business, especially sneakers, has also introduced many new customers to the Zegna brand.

Where’s the potential internationally?

Each market shows potential right now.

In mature markets there’s a new generation of potential Zegna clients, whereas the opportunity to grow emerging markets over the last decade lies in consolidating the position we’ve acquired. In addition, Africa and countries in Asia such as Japan and Korea are a focus for the group in 2016.

Thanks to Zegna’s global footprint, international travelers arrive in the U.S. with a pre-established appreciation and desire for the brand. We see this reflected positively in our U.S. sales across retail and wholesale.

Talk a bit about your corporate culture.

Zegna is a company that asks a lot of questions: of our customers, business partners and of ourselves. We’ve always listened closely to our local markets; this helps us to be better partners. In our constant drive for excellence, we not only challenge ourselves daily but we also welcome challenges from our customers.

Given Zegna’s rich heritage, we are continually evolving while respecting our environment. My grandfather’s dedication to the community has been passed down through each generation and is today expressed via the Zegna Foundation and the preservation of Oasi Zegna, the nature park that surrounds the Zegna wool mill.

Who among your retail accounts do you most admire and why?

We are very fortunate to have the best wholesale distribution network in the business. We do observe two common traits among those retail accounts who are most successful with Zegna: 1) They know their clients, and 2) They understand their local markets and are deeply involved in their communities. Our closest partners stimulate our creativity, motivating us to innovate both product and business ideas. This always strengthens our partnerships and grows the business on both ends.

Maker & Company and the entire Apparel Group family of brands would like to congratulate Nordstrom as an MR Awards recipient

MR AWARDS

/ Game Changers: Most Innovative

THEMUSIC CONNECTION John Varvatos brings genuine cool to men’s apparel.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

Growing up in Detroit, John Varvatos has always had a passion for music: his downtown Manhattan office is filled with signed guitars, music memorabilia, photography books and fabulous images of music icons. But unlike many comparably cool fashion designers, Varvatos is soft-spoken, humble, and totally unpretentious. (Proud of his working-class background, he recently took a reporter from the New York Times to visit the modest, 1,000 sq. ft. family home in Detroit where he grew up. After the interview, he treated her to a hotdog rather than a fancy lunch.)

“It’s been a long journey,” he acknowledges, when asked how he got to this point in his career. “I first got interested in fashion in junior high, when I noticed that 7th grade girls paid more attention to me when I wore something interesting. So I did, and over the years, I got more into clothes and eventually took a job at an independent menswear store where I worked through college. (I was premed, intending to go to veterinary school but ultimately used those science credits for a teaching degree.) It wasn’t until much later that I became interested in design and took a few classes (pattern-making, illustration) at FIT while working for Ralph Lauren (where I started out in sales, not design).”

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To put the resume in proper order: Varvatos first opened a store with a partner in 1980 (Fitzgerald’s in Grand Rapids, Mich.), then joined Ralph Lauren in 1984 where he became VP of sales, left there in 1987 to found Keaton Chase, a wholesale business where he mastered the art of tailoring. He then joined Calvin Klein in 1990 as head of men’s design (where he learned sourcing, licensing, marketing), and then in 1994 went back to Ralph where he took over men’s design with Ralph’s brother Jerry.

“I had a great run with Ralph,” Varvatos recalls. “He is a true visionary, with an ear to the ground and a pulse on popular culture. He has a broad view of the world, without blinders, but no matter what goes on around him, he stays true to his vision. I respect him tremendously and remain close to him and his family to this day. Although he didn’t want me to resign, he gave me his blessing once he saw my first collection; his approval meant the world to me.”

Although he had never intended to leave Ralph, Varvatos had an aha moment one summer day in 1999 while walking through Barneys. “Everything on the selling floor was black—Prada’s black nylon, Gucci, Helmut Lang—and I knew I could offer something different. So I invested what little money I had

(with some help from Harvey Sanders at Nautica) and we started a business. First it was just me, then we grew it to seven employees, put together a collection and staged a runway show in January 2000. For some reason, I wasn’t scared, maybe because I was 43 years old and felt confident about what I’d learned in my career. When you’re 25, it’s about a vision and a dream, but no expertise or practical knowledge. I knew I could execute, and I surrounded myself with people who could execute. I also felt that my design aesthetic— modern sensibility meets old world artisanship—was new to the market at the time, and could catch on.”

Of course, a great marketing campaign featuring fabulous images of music icons didn’t hurt, nor did performances by famous musicians in the stores. Most importantly, although Varvatos doesn’t mention this, these concerts often support social service agencies, defining a designer with a very big heart.

(Ziggy Marley recently performed at a West Coast event for Stuart House, which raised $1.2 million toward providing homes for abused children.)

With his extensive collection of vintage guitars, Varvatos admits that he’s not a great musician. “I play, but not really well. I re-

MARYELLEN MATTHEWS

I never think about fashion; I think about style. I like iconic items that still look and feel right many years later.

John Varvatos Gets Personal Born: Detroit Michigan, one of five siblings of Greek-American parents Mentors: Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein Honors: Three CFDA awards in 2000, 2001, 2005; GQ in 2007, MR in 2015 Current acclaim: First name designer to support New York Fashion Week: Men’s Passion: Music, collecting vintage guitars Musician friends (a few of many): Iggy Pop, Ringo Starr, Willie Nelson. Alice Cooper, Ziggy Marley Favorite vacation spot: Mustique Favorite movie: Pulp Fiction Favorite restaurant: Tre Eme, a tiny eatery in a tiny town in Tuscany; Lure Fish Bar in NYC Favorite food: Mexican Favorite drink: Margarita Lessons learned over the years: Humility, patience What makes him angriest: “A lack of common sense” What makes him happiest: “Family, especially my 7-year-old daughter” Little known fact: He started a record company this year with Universal Music

member the first time I was called on stage to join a band (which happens often), my wife told me she never knew I could play. I told her I might look good up there, but in truth, I turn down my sound and get drowned out by the rest of the band so you can’t really tell how bad I am.”

As the first name designer to support this year’s New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Varvatos is strongly committed to America. “I’d always supported the New York shows, but when the timing was off (too late for buyers to actually place orders), I dropped out. I’m now

delighted to be back: as an American designer, it’s important to show in New York.”

Ironically, the idea to re-join Fashion Week came when he was opening his new store in Detroit. “The Detroit experience has been magical: we’ve been so embraced, not just by Detroit but around the country, for doing something good, for trying to help start something. Because that’s why we went there in the first place: to put a stake in the ground and inspire others to open there. And I thought if I can ignite something here in my home city, why not try to do the same in my second city?”

But for Varvatos, the Detroit thing is much bigger. “My dream is to start manufacturing there. They’ve got the will, the drive, the labor force; they just need to be taught.

Already, there are amazing young people who started a movement called Empowerment Detroit. They teach homeless people how to sew; they’re making coats that turn into sleeping bags… These are kids in their 20s who started this and already there are former homeless people who now have skills. And jobs… We’re working closely with them and hope to find ways to do some manufacturing there. I’m

CONGRATULATIONS NORDSTROM RETAILER OF THE DECADE

Smart Apparel U.S., Inc.

525 Seventh Avenue, Suite 1901, New York, New York 10018 212.329.3400, SmartApparelUS.com

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Saluting Nordstrom and all honorees.

ce fort, performan innovation, com

46 quality since 19

also hoping to put a recording studio for our new label right in downtown Detroit.” [Editor’s note: his new label with Universal Music has already signed Zack Brown Band (which jumped to #1 on the Billboard charts), Amos Lee, Andrew Watt, Tyler Bryan & the Shakedown, and other promising young talent.]

The Varvatos brand is now in 16 countries (Converse by John Varvatos in 35). Total company volume is half wholesale, half retail; Star USA is 90 percent wholesale, with tremendous growth potential in company-owned stores. All told, Varvatos owns 22 stores (four outside the U.S.), with three more opening this year. Many sell music paraphernalia, audio equipment and vinyl records in addition to apparel. Several have a concert stage for performances; all are designed as much for hanging out as for shopping. Asked about growth, Varvatos projects it will come from company-owned stores, both here in the States (middle America rather than the Coasts) and internationally. International growth will likely be company-owned stores since they’re already in the top 75 multibrand stores. Confirms Lion Capital partner Lyndon Lea, “Behind John’s unique style and uncompromising vision, the Varvatos brand is one of the most exciting to enter men’s luxury apparel in years…we look forward to unlocking the substantial potential.”

With all his accomplishments, Varvatos describes himself as first and foremost a family man. He talks with pride about his wife and three children: a son and daughter in their 20s and another daughter who turns seven in August (ask to see the pictures…). He truly regrets that his parents did not live to see his success.

“Actually my mom got a bit of it: she was still alive when I first won a CFDA award although her health didn’t allow her to get to NYC. But my dad died when I was in my teens and I often wish he could be here now. We had a great relationship but he always thought I was a smartass.

He’d probably still think I’m a smartass, but at least a successful one.

“You know, as time goes by, I appreciate my parents more and more. They lived a simple lifestyle: materially they had very little, but their family and friends were everything to them. And the older I get, the more I realize that their values and priorities were right on target.”

Fast Facts on John Varvatos Inc.: Brand launched: 2000 Owned by: Lion Capital LLP since 2012, (Varvatos is chairman and chief creative officer) Sales volume: $250 million (industry estimates) Aesthetic: Modern sensibility meets old world craftsmanship Stores: 22 (including the famed Bowery boutique, formerly CBGB, an underground music club) Collaborations: Converse, Chrysler Divisions: Star USA (younger, more affordable)

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At Ledbury, it all started with the shirt. Luxurious fabrics from Europe’s finest mills are combined with subtle innovations to create a shirt that is truly best in class.

SS 2016

MRket NY

Vang uard s Gal l er y Booth No. 341 www.ledbury.com

wholesale@ledbury.com

MR Special Section July 2015

CLOTHING BY Z ZEGNA; PHOTO BY GREG SWALES; MODEL: FRANCO NORIEGA, Q MODELS

How performance fabrics and technical brands are changing the menswear game.

MOVE

MOVE

PEAK PERFORMANCE

In response to the male consumer’s growing interest in fashion, tech and health, retailers are shifting assortments. Performance fabrics are penetrating all categories from suiting to sportswear, from streetwear to designer collections.

Here, we uncover how performance fabrics and technical brands are changing the menswear game.

BY ELISE DIAMANTINI

E

veryone is trying to get a piece of the performance pie. Even Google, which has been attempting to break into the fashion market for some time, is introducing a smart fabric. The New York Post recently reported that Google is developing fabric technology that “will make shirts, pants and other articles of clothing responsive to swipes and taps the same way touchscreens are.” Technological advances in fabrics and fibers are allowing more brands to offer functional fashion, and the trend is projected to continue.

Fashion Meets Function It might sound obvious, but retailers agree that performance must incorporate fashion and function. “By fusing fabric technology from ac-

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tivewear with sportswear and clothing, the modern wardrobe now features a host of innovations including increased durability, stain resistance, breathability, anti-wrinkling and stretch,” explains Belinda Yu, Harry Rosen’s sportswear and outerwear buyer. “Performance wear extends across categories. In outerwear, we see stretch nylon down jackets and fabrics that keep your body at a consistent temperature as well as improvements in water resistance, memory yarns and ventilation.

In suiting, we see performance fabrics that wear comfortably on an eight-hour flight, that stretch, can be folded and still look impeccably professional upon arrival.”

Durand Guion, VP and fashion director at Macy’s, says performance covers a broad range of classifications. “There are certainly customers

COMING ON STRONG Public School VEST and SHIRT; Bespoken SHORTS

MR-Mag.com MR

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MOVE who are well informed about wicking, UV protection and water resistance. There are also those who prefer to wear clothing with a nod to athletic design, whether on the course or at the clubhouse.”

At Saks Fifth Avenue, active is more important than performance. VP and fashion director Eric Jennings explains, “We’re interested in dressing the guy going to and from active sports. There’s a shift towards more casual, active-inspired sportswear in the market and we’re adjusting our assortments accordingly.”

He says brands like Adidas/Porsche Design, J. Lindeberg Sport, EA7 and Orlebar Brown are currently selling.

The Impact of Active and Athleisure Whether you love the word or hate it, there’s no denying that athleisure (athletic-inspired sportswear) is impacting menswear. As Yu believes, the athleisure trend spawned from the rise in true activewear. And now it’s acceptable to look like you’re going to the gym (even if you aren’t) as long as there’s some sort of fashion or modern element to your active look. She says that they’ve seen a spike in sales of athleisure items like joggers, hoodies and sweatshirts because consumers are looking for comfort. “And that’s where performance aspects like those found in DL

Jeans’ three-way stretch technology come in.

Or rainwear fabric and construction details that keep weather at bay while keeping him comfortable and stylish from Herno, Z Zegna and Arc’teryx Veilance.”

Jennings agrees. “Athleisure is taking up a bigger portion of our existing brands’ sportswear collections. This is an emerging zone for most luxury retailers. Our customer understands that health is the new luxury and he will invest accordingly. He still wants luxury.

Active sport, however, is a new zone and will be incremental business for us.”

Mr Porter recently launched a dedicated performancewear site in April aptly named Mr Porter Sport. Buying director for the luxury etailer, Toby Bateman, said in a statement, “We know that sport and fitness are integral to our customers’ interests and day-to-day lives, so we want to offer our global audience the best in men’s sports apparel. In keeping with our ethos of editing only the best brands within each category, we have chosen our sport brands based primarily on their technical performance properties, but also for their style.” The offering is broken down into nine sporting categories including running, cycling, tennis, golf, training, outdoor, swimming, sailing and overall fitness accessories from brands like Arc’teryx Veilance, APL, RLX, Nike and Patagonia.

At Harry Rosen, brands like Z Zegna are doing well because they’re fusing active ideas into the sportswear collection. Yu adds, “Canada’s own Arc’teryx Veilance has pushed aspects of its main line in a fashionforward direction. Harry Rosen’s exclusive JP Tilford by Samuelsohn performance line was a game changer in improving functionality in suits.”

Athleisure is taking hold even at the moderate level. As David Mihalko, VP men’s at Belk observes, “The innovation that is coming out of the active market with technical fabrics and slimmer fits is definitely influencing sportswear trends from athleisure in young men’s/contemporary (with the dominant jogger silhouette) to performance as a new staple in tops and bottoms from all brands.”

Raising Awareness Even with all this newness, the industry needs to educate consumers not only on what these performance features can do, but that they even exist in the first place. As NPD reported in March, consumer awareness on smart fabric technology is low, but the interest among consumers is there. “Smart fabrics are an important and innovative development for the fashion industry, but consumers don’t know enough about them to fully em-

MOMENTS IN PERFORMANCE The first pair of sweatpants (knitted gray jersey pants) were introduced by Emile Camuset (founder of Le Coq Sportif in 1882).

Fresco, a ventilated, highperformance travel cloth was patented.

1907 1909

1920

Seersucker originated in British India but was made popular in the United States by the Louisianabased company, Haspel.

Seersucker is a breathable fabric that keeps the wearer cool.

French tennis star Rene Lacoste invented the “tennis shirt” a short sleeved, soft collared, pique cotton shirt,

1926

1930

Nylon was invented by Wallace Carothers at DuPont’s research facility and was introduced to the public at the World’s Fair in New York.

1930-39

Sanford Lockwood Cluett patented sanforizing, as a pretreatment to prevent cotton and other cellulosic fabrics from shrinking.

While fabrics like wool and cotton have natural performance features built in, there has been some major advancement in synthetic fabrics over the years.

Here, we’ve compiled some of the key moments in performance and sporting apparel innovation. —ED

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Haggar introduced “Forever Prest,” the forerunner of wrinkle free pants.

1941

1946

DuPont invented Tyvek, a nonwoven spunbonded fabric that adds protection, security and safety to many different industries, like disposable sportswear. Its first production was in 1967.

Gore-Tex, a waterproof, breathable fabric membrane and registered trademark of W. L. Gore and Associates was invented.

1952 1953 1955 1959 1964

The Dobeckmun Company created Lurex, a Two British faux chemists metallic patented polyethylene fiber that terephthalate doesn’t tarnish.

(PET or PETE) used in fibers like Dacron, Terylene and polyester.

Brooks Brothers introduced wrinklefree shirt.

DuPont created spandex and trademarked it as Lycra.

1969

The Woolmark Company created a logo to raise the awareness of merino wool and its natural performance qualities like moisture wicking, breathability, resistance to odor, antistatic and fire resistance

Cotton Incorporated was founded, in part to remind consumers of cotton’s natural performance qualities, like comfort and absorbency.

1970

1977

X-STATIC Silver Fiber introduced.

The fabric is antimicrobial, anti-odor and thermoregulating.

Mr Porter Sport

brace them,” said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst for NPD. The report, which was based on a survey of 1,000 respondents from NPD’s online consumer panel of U.S. adults aged 18 or older, also noted that “less than half of consumers are aware of most smart fabrics, including those that have been available in the marketplace for several years.

For some smart fabrics, including cooling and heat-modifying fabrics, interest is higher than awareness. When asked what types of apparel with smart fabric benefits would interest them most, consumers put workout clothing/activewear at the top of the list, driven by consumers age 18 to 34. Jeans and underwear follow activewear on the list, driven by consumers age 45 and older. One thing consistent among all age groups is the interest in cotton with smart fabric benefits.”

Belk is educating consumers about performance attributes through in-store signage, hang tags, and online videos. “Performance is driving positive comps in our menswear business,” explains Mihalko. “Our consumers have a love of the outdoors and active lifestyles. Features that are important to our consumer include fabrics that keep you cool and dry during the summer months as well as lightweight fabrics that keep you warm in the winter months.

Specific features that resonate are fabrics that

Polar fleece was invented

by Malden Mills.

1979

Running has become very important to our customer and he is investing in base layer pieces to support this activity.”

–Durand Guion, Macy’s

Nike introduced Dri-FIT, a highperformance, microfiber, polyester fabric that moves sweat away from the body and to the fabric surface, where it evaporates.

Loro Piana introduced Storm System, an ultra-thin membrane that makes fine fabrics like cashmere and vicuna waterproof, wind-resistant and breathable.

1990

Speedo produced S2000, a fabric designed by Pentland Industries to improve swimmers speed.

It is made from polyester microfibers and lycra elastomeric fibers (more water resistant than skin).

1992 1993

Nano-Tex was founded by Dr. David Soane. They were the first company to apply nanotechnology to fabrics making them water repellent, stain resistant, odor controlling and wrinkle free.

Synthetic wicking fabric was invented by Robert Kasdan and Stanley Kornblum. They found that a synthetic fabric made up on micro fiber yarn had wicking properties.

1993- 1998

Patagonia began making recycled polyester from plastic soda bottles; the first outdoor clothing manufacturer to transform trash into fleece. Still doing this today, they recycle used soda bottles, unusable waste and worn-out garments into polyester fibers used in clothing.

Eton developed a unique, Swiss finishing process for wrinkle-free shirts.

1998

2007

Mitsubishi Microban introduced collaborated Diaplex, an with Oakley to intelligent offer outdoor material woven performance into fabric to sandals with create comfort by antimicrobial adjusting to protection. temperature in the environment and wearer’s body. It’s also waterproof, breathable and has anticondensation properties.

wick moisture, are water repellant or waterproof, that utilize body heat to insulate in our mild winters and fabrics that provide UV protection and cool the body during warmer months. Even in our traditional sportswear zones, wrinkle free properties are becoming more important for easy care options.” Brands driving the business in the active/outdoor space at Belk include Under Armour, Nike and Columbia; Polo, Vineyard Vines, Nautica and Calvin Klein Sportswear are driving performance business in collections.

The Future of Performance As new technology is developed almost daily, the opportunities for performance apparel are seemingly endless. Guion predicts we’ll be in an active/performance period for the foreseeable future. He elaborates, “The influence on menswear will continue as designers and brands evolve fabric details and silhouettes get a bit more relaxed. We’ll see more innovative and interesting uses of mesh for a textural element, graphic print and pattern details that add excitement and more refinement across the board. We may also see more strategic use of color to keep the customer interested beyond core shades like black, gray and navy.”

Repreve started recycling plastic bottles into products made by brands including North Face, Quiksilver, Volcom and Haggar.

2009

Qmilch, invented by Anke Domaske, is a silky fabric woven from the protein fibers in milk.

Dr. Jason Locklin developed an antimicrobial spray-on solution that can be applied to natural and synthetic textile including clothes.

2011

2012

Under Armour released “Under Armour Scent Control,” designed to suppress and trap the growth of odor by using sythentic zeolites and antimicrobial silver. Nike introduced Flyknit technology that uses knit construction, allowing for a lightweight upper and reducing materials needed to manufacture a shoe.

2015 Warpstreme, a four-way stretch wind and water resistant fabric, was introduced by Lululemon.

MR-Mag.com MR

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MOVE PROMOTION

GETTING TECHINCAL This season, Barbour Tri-Tec means cool choices.

D

o the longer days of spring remind you of Barbour? They should, as the brand’s evolution has brought with it significant spring business for Barbour retailers. And, it will keep growing, thanks to innovation that brings the Barbour look and qualities to beautiful spring collections that includes sportswear, accessories, footwear and luggage in distinctive lifestyle groupings.

The most recent addition to the line is Barbour spring outerwear, constructed using sophisticated technical fabrics instead of waxed cotton, while maintaining the integrity, water repellency and style that has made the brand a favorite of today’s modern customer. The unique three-layer Barbour Tri-Tec waterproof fabric provides shelter from showers without compromising breathability. Robust taped seams work with a two-way zip and stud-fastening front to seal out driving rain, while seam-free outer pockets fasten with snap-close flaps and waterproof zips to keep essential items safe and dry. The lightweight, unlined jackets maintain their shape, provide reliable weather protection and have the distinctive tartan linings that identify them with the Barbour family.

However, they are soft and supple, with a contemporary fit, weighing about half as much as waxed cotton, and perfect for travel.

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Barbour technical spring outerwear is available in both the dress traditional collection, where it is known as Bankside and has the traditional Barbour tartan on the inside, and in the Land Rover collection, with the Burnside name and the Land Rover Tartan inside.

It is available in navy blue and light tan.

Speaking of the Land Rover collection, it has been incredibly successful for the retailers who bought into it last year. The collaboration blends the best of both brands to create a collection punctuated by simplicity, precision and country-inspired luxury. According to Barbour Inc. general manager Tom Hooven, “Those who had the foresight to invest in Barbour’s collaboration with Land Rover have been rewarded with solid returns. The Land Rover lifestyle is a perfect complement to Barbour, as both are aspirational brands for people who love quality and adventure.”

Be sure to stop by during the July show and market weeks to see how Barbour celebrates spring with clothing, accessories and outerwear from classic to contemporary, for discriminating consumers. For more information, please contact Andy Hill at andy.hill@barbour.com.

MOVE PROMOTION

INNOVATING HERITAGE What do Apple, Under Armour and Google have to do with Hardwick, America’s oldest tailored clothing maker?

P

erformance. Almost every brand has hopped on the bandwagon, but there still isn’t a universally accepted definition of what performance actually is or does for the consumer. Yet. At least that’s how Hardwick Clothes sees it. Founded July 28, 1880 in Cleveland, Tenn. they’re America’s oldest tailored clothing maker. And they’re looking to become the most innovative as well.

Hardwick’s CEO & president Bruce Bellusci says the strategy is simple, “to redefine the basics of the tailored world in a way that speaks to the smartphone generation, in addition to the guys who still write a handwritten note.” Enter Hardwick’s notion of performance. They’re marrying the latest textile innovations, consumer research data, and technologies from other industries to create beautiful and functional clothing. It’s common sense meeting technology and innovation. Think Apple. Think Under Armour. It is a product category in clothing that hasn’t been defined. Yet. At first glance it’s odd that the oldest American clothing company in the USA, based in a tiny town in the South, thinks about technology and innovation when they design a product, even more so when you realize the garments are sewn within a stone’s throw of the Smokey Mountains.

Stranger yet is that they’ve built a high-tech testing and collaborative design space that seems better suited for Google, let alone a Southern clothing manufacturer. The team acknowledges the juxtaposition and relishes the seemingly contradictory values, which reflects a level of selfawareness and humbleness that most brands seem to miss.

One of the many innovations to emerge that highlights this new way of thinking is their exclusive Hardwick H-Tech Privacy Pocket, which seamlessly marries old and new technology within a garment to protect consumers from a problem they didn’t know they had.

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According to their chief creative officer, Jeffery Diduch, our smartphone’s RFID “no-swipe” payment systems, shopping apps, and other ubiquitous methods of getting and spreading information have made us walking data sources waiting to be mined. So he created a new utility pocket for phones and wallets in the coat made of a woven copper mesh material, originally developed for the German military to protect against radiation, that will block even the smallest bandwidths of the radio waves passively emitted by our phones and chip enabled credit cards.

When asked to describe the essence of the new Hardwick, Diduch painted an illustrious picture of authentic Southern company, producing an American-made product, which plays to both basic and colorful looks favored by a traditional customer with unexpected bold, sophisticated fabrics you’d expect from the most expensive Neapolitan tailors.

He also makes a point to draw a distinction between “taste” and “fashion” when it comes to product, the former being their only concern.

Diduch goes on, “I’m reminded of what Steve Jobs said about his approach to product design, that ‘Design is not just what it looks like and feels like. Design is how it works.’ Every innovation that we incorporate, from stretch waistbands and lightweight soft constructed jackets to nanotech fabrics and graduated armholes is not just a talking point or catchy marketing. We’re making product we want to wear. It’s product we can’t find, because it doesn’t exist.”

Hardwick is rolling out their new Spring 2016 products at this summer’s markets and trade shows. Be sure to stop and see them or, better yet, make an appointment at MRket NYC, Chicago Collective, Boston Collective, Dallas Collective, Haberdashery Guild Show, Northwest Buyers, or the Charlotte show by emailing vipservice@hardwick.com.

MOVE PROMOTION

COOL, CRISP AND CREASELESS Fresco performance fabrics from Gladson stand the test of time.

P

erformance is a relatively new term for fabrics that are extraordinary in one way or another. However, the history of performance fabrics is a relatively long one starting, perhaps, back in 1907, when Fresco, the original and ultimate travel suit, was patented and introduced by Martin Sons and Co., in England. Fresco was truly extraordinary. In fact, 60 years later, Fred Lintott, then joint managing director of Huntsman (of Savile Row) was stranded at Chicago's O'Hare International Airport during one of the worst snowstorm's of the century, and said he “rolled the jacket of his gray Fresco suit into a pillow and used it for three nights.” What shocked and pleased him was that, “the coat was creaseless by breakfast each morning.”

This amazing all-wool fabric was ventilated to keep the wearer cool, crisp in its look and feel, and totally crease resistant, naturally, due to the way it was woven. Fresco was so ahead of its time, in fact, that no other natural suit fabric, up through today, has ever had all of its qualities and benefits. That's why Gladson is delighted to offer Fresco by Hardy Minnis exclusively in the United States, helping you create the finest custom-made performance suits available, as a result of its acquisition of the storied English mill, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds, in 2009.

Truly a sophisticated cloth for people who understand quality, Fresco is available in a range of 53 styles including solid colors and classic suiting patterns across four weights and qualities. You'll be amazed at the crisp, lively feel of Fresco and the unique properties resulting from high twist applied to wool from crossbred sheep, which produce a yarn that is long staple with luster and crimp which is then folded to give it exceptional performance. In development for spring/summer 2016 release is a new quality code-named “Fresco-Lite” which will be added to the collection.

And, when you visit Gladson at the trade shows or in their show-

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room, you should ask to see the new Bedlam collection, an unparalleled assortment of “insanely elegant” sartorial suitings featuring melange twist top-dyed yarns unique in the market. The design team loves the name because they “lost their minds” reworking and refining each swatch for maximum dimension, movement and eye appeal. You’d be crazy to pass them up. For more info, contact Cheryl Lange Clange@gladsonltd.com or 855-343-6373.

What’s In Your Suitcase?

FRESCO

®

T h e U l t i m a t e Tra v e l S u i t .

The gentleman who’s going places always wants to look impeccable.

Fresco by Hardy Minnis takes him there in cool comfort, whatever comes his way. Its patented twist yarn construction assures breathability, wrinkle resistance, and a dry hand. Made in Huddersfield England, the world’s finest tailors call it The Ultimate Travel Suit, and no wonder.

He may run into wrinkles getting where he’s going, but looking sharp won’t be one of them.

THE NAME BEHIND THE NAMES w w w. g l a d s o n l t d . co m

|

sales@gladsonltd.com

©2015 Gladson Ltd. An HMS International Company

|

8 0 0 . 2 2 7. 1 7 2 4

Luggage from www.SterlingandBurke.com

MOVE PROMOTION

PUT IT TO THE TEST Learn why Enro claims to have the Best Performing Shirt in the World.

A

dress shirt says a lot about a guy who wears it. When it does its job, both the wearer and the shirt stay fresh and look stylish throughout the day, with a coat or without. Sounds simple, but let’s face the facts. It has been very hard to find a great shirt, at a reasonable price, that really performs for both you and your customers…until now.

Enro, the iconic American shirt company for nearly 100 years, has spent the last two years, and the majority of their research and development, in the quest for the best performing shirt in the world. They found it. They built it. And, the best news is that you can afford it.

Enro’s new Best Performing Shirt in the World is, very simply, like no shirt you have ever worn. It combines all the essential features your customers want, like the finest available wrinkle-free, non-iron finish, enhanced fabric breathability and stain release technology, with the comfort and quality benefits that make a great shirt. Attributes like flawless, double sewn button holes that eliminate loose threads, nocurl collars and pucker-free seams work together to make this shirt the best in the market. However, that’s just the beginning.

In addition to all the benefits that make Enro’s new technology easy to sell within its packaging, there is one benefit that will keep your customers returning again for every style and other colors. The Enro shirt is the softest, most comfortable shirt that you have ever sold. Its high-quality cotton yarns are finished with a unique process that brings them to a new level of comfort. And, it gets softer with each laundering.

Lance Itkoff, men’s divison president of The Apparel Group, parent company of Enro, calls The Best Performing Shirt in the World “the most important advancement in non-iron technology in the last 20 years.” He compares this shirt to a Tesla: a beautiful car in its own right,

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but with performance never before available in a fully loaded luxury sedan. However, at $79.50 to $89.50 MSRP, with generous margins, your customers will appreciate the value, while you reap the benefits of customer loyalty and appreciation.

It’s not only the shirt that has a story. Enro, the company, is taking action to improve the environment as well. They are constantly striving to reduce their ecological footprint to preserve the world’s vital natural resources. As an example, the water used in the manufacturing process is 90 percent recycled and the balance between the resources consumed and replaced is nearly equal. So, customers can be confident that the technological advances that made the Best Performing Shirt in the World possible do not come at a cost to our planet.

The new Enro collection is available in a variety of dress and sport shirt styles and fits. The line can be seen at the MRket and Chicago Collective shows this summer. Or, you can call your Enro rep, or call 214-469-3342 to learn more.

The Most Important Dress Shirt Innovation in Over 20 Years INTRODUCING

“THE BEST PERFORMING SHIRT IN THE WORLD™” FEATURING SIX EXCLUSIVE TECHNOLOGIES NEVER BEFORE AVAILABLE IN A SINGLE SHIRT

ME TIC U LO U S LY CRAFTED IN OUR W ORKR OOM S WI T H D OU BL E S E WN B UT TON HOLE S , PUC KER FR E E S E A MS , NO -CU RL COLL A RS , A ND MOR E

PAT ENT ED COOLING T ECH NOLO GY A ND ENH ANCED FA BR IC BREAT H ABI LIT Y FOR ULT I M AT E COMFORT

T H E MO ST A DVA NC ED NON I R ON TEC H NOLO G Y AVAI L A BLE - WA S H / DRY/ WEA R … I T ’ S T H AT EA SY

PATENTED STAI N R ELEA SE APPL ICATION AT T H E COL L A RS A ND CUF F S F OR A CR ISP A PPE A R A NC E WA S H AF T ER WA SH

E XCLUSIV E   ’ S T WO PLY YA RNS WI T H A N I N NOVATI V E T WO STE P FINI S H I NG PR OC ESS FOR U LTIM ATE LU X U RY

E XCLUSI V E SPF + PR OTECTION FR OM U VA A N D U V B R AY S

MRKET LAS VEGAS LAS VEGAS, NEVADA AUGUST 17-19, 2015 SANDS EXPO

CHICAGO COLLECTIVE CHICAGO, ILLINOIS AUGUST 2-4, 2015 THE MERCHANDISE MART BOOTH#2094

Special Advertorial Section

{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} STYLE

ITALY@

MONTECHIARO BOOTH 140

REPORTER BOOTH 326

RENCO BIG & TALL

LORENZONI

BOOTH 148

BOOTH 140

MR Magazine takes a look at the brands of Made In Italy at the MRket NY show July 19th to July 21st, 2015 Javits Center, NYC ITALO FERRETTI

ARALDI 1930

BOOTH 241

IMPULSO BOOTH 140

BOOTH 139

GERMANO GHERGO BOOTH 233

BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO BOOTH 250

ALESSANDRO SIMONI BOOTH 249

Special Advertorial Section

{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} STYLE

DI BELLO

BY NIPAL

FILIPPO DE LAURENTIS

BOOTH 136

BOOTH 146

PAOLO VITALE BOOTH 231

VITALIANO BOOTH 128

PASOTTI BOOTH 329

BRETELLE & BRACES BOOTH 348

ITALWEAR/A. BOSSI

KLOTERS MILANO

BOOTH 239

BOOTH 150

MISTERNIC CASHMERE

BELSIRE MILANO

MON ARTPUCCIO DI PIERO BOOTH 130

BRADOR BOOTH 247

UMBERTO VALLATI

BOOTH 330

BOOTH 253

BAGNOLI SARTORIA NAPOLI

BRANCACCIOC.

BOOTH 354

BOOTH 143

SILVIO FIORELLO

BOOTH 248

BOOTH 252

Special Advertorial Section

{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} STYLE

MORA BOOTH 147

GERMANO

ALPETORA/G. MANZONI

BOOTH 346

BOOTH 350

BOOTH 238

CALABRESE DAL 1924

LUCIANO MORESCO

MONTALIANI

BOOTH 246

PAOLO ALBIZZATI BOOTH 255

FERRANTE BOOTH 152

HOMAND

BOOTH 235

BOOTH 144

INGRAM

GIOSBRUN ROMA PARIOLI

BOOTH 326

BOOTH 135

TINO COSMA.

GALLOTTI

BOOTH 334

BOOTH 338

PULITO ABBIGLIAMENTO DAL 1885 BOOTH 133

FLY3 BOOTH 251

ARCURI TIES BOOTH 155

Special Advertorial Section

{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} STYLE

SANI GUALTIERO FIRENZE BOOTH 344

CAPRI BOOTH 345

PIETRO PROVENZALE BOOTH 352

ERNEST HEMINGWAY BOOTH 349

BRESCIANI BOOTH 126

DOLCEPUNTA BOOTH 227

SINCLAIR BOOTH 232

DINO BIGIONI

` GLAMOUR POCHETTE FEFE

BOOTH 245

BOOTH 149

PALAZZO SARTORIALE

MARCHESI DI COMO

BOOTH 131

BOOTH 342

ALESSANDRO GHERARDI BOOTH 229

GALLIA BOOTH 230

070 STUDIOLANDI BOOTH 234

TACCALITI SHIRTS BOOTH 254

GIMO’S BOOTH 127

SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQUARE

With so many years spent in the shadow of women’s wear, you’d expect a certain anemia among the menswear set, but nothing could be further from the facts. With an unsurpassed pool of talent, and the male customer more poised than ever to purchase, this season, it’s our time to shine. BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY While 1998 doesn’t seem like such a long time ago to me, in menswear years, 17 (which is how many years New York has been without a dedicated menswear week), seems like an eternity. For many of the younger members of the industry, the Feb/Sept New York Fashion Week has been the only thing they’ve really known, but back in the mid-’90s, Fern Mallis, then executive director of the CFDA, remembers menswear week well. “We started Seventh on Sixth back in ’93, and after a couple of seasons, many of the menswear designers on the Board and in the CFDA got, shall we say, jealous,” she explains. “We looked into having a separate men’s event, and in ’96, ’97, and ’98 we did dedicated men’s shows in February and July: at the Bryant Park Hotel, at a tent set up in a parking lot by the Republic Bank, at Sony Studios on 54th, and we had sponsorships from General Motors, Men’s

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Health, Esquire, Details, and GQ. It was very successful but when Helmut Lang chose to show in New York instead of in Europe, and wanted to show before everyone else, the women’s shows shifted so close to the men’s that it made no sense to do two separate weeks.” While that might sound like it’s all Helmut’s fault, the blame falls at no one’s feet.

Times change. For instance, pre-empting even Ms. Mallis’ menswear efforts, the Men’s Fashion Association organized their dedicated Press Previews throughout the ’70s, ’80s, and into the early-’90s. Menswear veteran Tom Julian, now the men’s director at Doneger, served as fashion director of the MFA. “The Men’s Fashion Association press previews attracted between 500 tp 1,000 industry insiders, and were supported by manufacturers like Haggar, PVH and Hartmarx, as well as menswear designers like Alexander Julian,

Andrew Fezza, Jhane Barnes and Tommy Hilfiger,” he recalls. “But they were press focused: the MFA never dealt with buyers or the trade show business models. Fern Mallis and the CFDA aligned the men’s shows with the trade shows, which synced the buyers and the press.”

With influences like Pitti and other European trade shows, Milan, and Paris (and Helmut, ahem) American menswear fractured.

“With New York Men’s bundled in with the women’s shows in September, our selling season was already over by two months,” explains menswear designer Michael Bastian. “We have to turn in our orders by the end of July, so the shows were really just marketing: they didn’t help sales at all.” “It all makes so much more sense now!” agrees Robert Geller. “New York deserves to have a fully dedicated men’s week. I’ve never wanted to show anywhere

n e w yo r k J ULY 1 9 – 2 1 , 2 01 5 Jacob Javits Center

l as vegas AU GU S T 1 7 – 1 9, 2 01 5 Mandalay Bay Convention Center

REGISTER NOW » » AT T E N D M AG I C .C O M @PROJECTSHOW

The real value of this fashion week is that it signifies a zeitgeist: menswear as equally worthy as women’s” —Greg Lauren port from the industry, we were able to expand. We got everyone thinking about it seriously, and the CFDA was able to take it to another level.” Adds CFDA CEO Steven Kolb,“It’s been like building a puzzle. There are so many moving pieces from securing partners to scheduling shows; at times we didn’t know if it would all come together, and a perception that ‘the industry doesn’t need another fashion week’ was something we had to overcome. There has been a coming together of the industry: designers, editors, trade shows and buyers. Seeing them work together, putting competition aside, has been incredible.” But the coming together of the industry didn't happen spontaneously. Kolb has

spent the last few years fitting those puzzle pieces together, rangling our homegrown talent back from the three other corners of fashion, and securing major sponsorships from companies including Dockers, Cadillac, and headline sponsor, Amazon. "We're thrilled we can help provide American menswear designers a local home to showcase their collections when buyers are actually in market," explains John Lohnas, GMM, men's clothing, Amazon Fashion. "When we heard the CFDA was in need of support to launch a New Yorkbased Fashion Week for menswear, we were the first to offer our help. We're supporting not only because we have an engaged male customer across Amazon Fashion, East Dane,

PHOTO BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

else and I feel like the bigger companies that left just left because of the schedule.” “I’m very patriotic, and New York is the world leader in menswear,” says Todd Snyder. “It’s not like we’re trying to organize a men’s week in Des Moines, Iowa (I can say that, because I’m from Des Moines, Iowa) but we’re trying to put on a men’s week in New York City.”

In the best part of two decades, one outstanding effort to assemble New York-based menswear designers in one dedicated space was Erin Hawker’s New York Men’s Day. “At Agentry PR, we had emerging talent that really needed financial help and support,” she says. “We took it upon ourselves to start supporting them and we received so much sup-

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Circle of Gentlemen

There has been a coming together of the industry: designers, editors, trade shows and buyers. Seeing them work together, putting competition aside, has been incredible.”

—Steven Kolb

and MyHabit, but more importantly because this is where the industry needs our help right now." And with Cadillac already aligned with NYMD, the announcement of their additional NYFWM’s sponsorship was exciting. “When we first started talking about Cadillac making the move to New York and we began to identify opportunities within the New York community to signal our arrival, we found Erin, Agentry and NYMD,” explains brand director Melody Lee. “Now we’re sponsoring both NYMD and NYFWM, and that integration of both platforms is so important to us: we get to celebrate with everybody, from the Ralph Laurens and the John Varvatoses to the Carlos Camposes and the David Harts.”

With facets of the New York fashion calendar increasing by the season, from shows on site/off site, to Milk’s MADE, to NYMD, the trade shows, and market week, what the industry needed was someone to bring the pieces together. “It’s been so important to the CFDA and to menswear in general, to have the entire industry supported and supporting each other,” explains NYFWM project director Mark Beckham. “The great testament of this week has been that not just the designers are signed on, but that the media, the retailers, and the trade shows are signed on. Everyone is working towards the same goal.”

While bringing everyone together in spirit may be simple, the main challenge was re-

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aligning the fractured schedule. With so many buyers and business done at the trade shows, unity is essential. VP of menswear at Business Journals, Lizette Chin has built the MRket show into the biggest men’s trade show in New York. “The CFDA has worked closely with us during the NYFWM process,” she explains. “We are all for any initiative that supports the advancement of the American menswear industry. The CFDA’s efforts to not only launch this dedicated week, but to collaborate with us, maintaining a dialogue as we work to align the timings of fashion shows and trade shows have been exceptional.” “The CFDA has created a calendar of events that offers both big names and emerging brands an opportunity to participate, with several presentation options at various price levels offering affordable options for even small designers,” adds co-founder of Capsule trade show Edina Sultanik. “We’ll be presenting a group show—featuring the SS16 collections of some of Capsule’s most innovative designers from the U.S. and around the world.”

But what do the retailers think? Now that it’s built, will they come? “I think we will always attend the shows just because we’re curious by nature and exploration is part of our world,” says Bergdorf Goodman VP and men’s fashion director Bruce Pask. “But since it’s more in line with market weeks, we will certainly get an enhanced attendance of buyers.”

Saks VP and men’s fashion director Eric Jen-

nings agrees. “There was no business being done for the men’s brands that were showing in September with women’s. They were getting some press but zero business out of that fashion week. Now they are going to be in the middle of the market season when the buyers are buying. It changes everything.”

So the stars align, and the designers will show, and buyers will buy, but beyond the business, what is truly driving this fashionable gravy train? “I think the real value of this fashion week is that it signifies the solidification and wide recognition of menswear as equally worthy as women’s,” explains artist and designer Greg Lauren. “I know that people are saying that it’s all about the business, but there is a renaissance of ideas happening in menswear at the moment. Because of the changing attitudes of men towards fashion, menswear is no longer playing second fiddle to women’s wear or to men’s fashion weeks in other countries.” With New York so centerstage, and with Milan, Paris, and London all showing men’s, the time is now. “I think as American designers it’s important to highlight what’s going on in New York and in the U.S.,” says David Hart. “My collection is so rooted in New York and Brooklyn that it’s important to show here, not just for my brand, but to support the infrastructure and all of the economic benefits that this week will generate for New York City.” The greatest city in the world.

THROAT THREADS APPAREL CONGRATULATES

on being awarded MR MAGAZINE’S

MOST INNOVATIVE DESIGNER.

T H R OAT T H R E A D S A P PA R E L

|

T H R OAT T H R E A D S . C O M

{ #NYFWM }

THE MOOD

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

DAVID HART

BILLY REID This season the focus is on relaxed sophistication combined with softness and a strong focus on textile development, really softening and lightening fabrications. There are also so many rossovers between our men’s and women’s collections, in fabrications and also in shape.”

This season I'm looking at the Bauhaus for inspiration: the interwar period; German modernism. Expect a lot of linen, silk prints, and also a focus on spring/summer merino wools that I've been working on in conjunction with the Woolmark Prize.”

If a picture’s worth a thousand words, this glimpse at what’s inspiring designers this season is worth millions.

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{ #NYFWM }

TODD SNYDER Expect lots of natural fibers. The collection has its athleticwear and performance influences, but you’ll see lots of natural fibers, especially linen. I really wanted to focus on natural fibers, and we’ve found some interesting ways to spin it. And expect indigo.”

Expect a very American inspiration, and expect some secrets we’ve got up our sleeve.

Some big news coming out with this show.”

MICHAEL BASTIAN

For more designer inspiration, go to MR-Mag.com

MR-Mag.com MR

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{ #NYFWM }

EFM Elegance in Motion expressed in the art of fencing serves as the inspiration for the collection. The essence of EFM embodies the elements of structure, ease of movement and precision.”

—Donrad Duncan

ROBERT GELLER There’s a German naval, historical theme: think an old sail that's been sunbleached and broken down; we wanted to get a lot of that feeling into some of the fabrics with crispy cottons and nylons.”

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THE MOOD

Congratulations Nordstrom For being honored as Nordstrom MR Magazine’s Congratulations for being honored as MR’s of the Decade.

Retailer of theRetailer Decade.

{ #NYFWM }

Designer Steve McSween says: “Expect inspiration drawn from the water and from the archive of our nautical DNA, while design theory is filtered through the sophistication of an elevated New York mindset.”

NAUTICA

THE MOOD

CARLOS CAMPOS I was inspired by the traveling nomad who wanders the forest.

With the lush forest backdrop in mind, expect layers of sleek pieces in deep hunter greens and burnt auburn reds.”

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the SATURDAY SUN B Y W I L L I A M B U C K L E Y. P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y G R E G S WA L E S

THIS PAGE: Calvin Klein Collection COAT, SWEATER; Timo Weiland PANTS; New Balance SNEAKERS; Retrosuperfuture SUNGLASSES. OPPOSITE PAGE: On Salieu: Billy Reid JACKET, SHOES; Ovadia & Sons T-SHIRT; Robert Geller PANTS. On Brian: Tim Coppens JACKET; Richard Chai LONG SLEEVE T-SHIRT, PANTS; Oliver Sweeney SHOES.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Michael Bastian JACKET; Bespoken T-SHIRT; Todd Snyder SHIRT; Billy Reid SWEATPANTS, SHOES. THIS PAGE: John Varvatos JACKET; Bespoken SWEATER; Brixton HAT. Calvin Klein Collection JACKET; Timo Weiland SWEATER; Public School PANTS.

THIS PAGE: Duckie Brown JACKET, TOP, PANTS. Tommy HilямБger JACKET; Fingers Crossed SHIRT; Retrosuperfuture SUNGLASSES. OPPOSITE PAGE: On Brian: Chapter JACKET; Fingers Crossed SWEATER; Nautica POLO; Timo Weiland PANTS. On Salieu: Public School JACKET, SHIRT; EFM CARDIGAN; Fingers Crossed PANTS.

MODELS: SALIEU, IMG; BRIAN REDFORD, NEW YORK. GROOMING, JULIANNA GROGAN. FASHION ASSISTANT, ERIK DEFRUSCIO.

ALPHA DESIGN GROUP NEW YORK: 37 West 20th Street, Suite 708, New York, NY 10011, 917.475.1582

www.promas-international.fr

{ TRADE EVENTS }

the

SHOWS

J ULY 7-9 BREAD AND BUTTER Airport Berlin-Tempelhof Berlin, Germany +49 (0)30 400 44 0 breadandbutter.com 8-9 AGENDA Long Beach Convention Center Long Beach, CA 213-223-5111 agendashow.com 12-13 THE COBB SHOW Cobb Galleria Centre Atlanta, GA 404-915-8059 thecobbshow.biz 18-20 DESIGNER FORUM NEW YORK The London Hotel New York, NY 888-248-2832 ctda.com 19-20 AGENDA Javits Center New York, NY 213-223-5111 agendashow.com 19-21 MRKETNY Javits Center New York, NY 212-710-7414 MRketshow.com 19-21 PROJECT Javits Center New York, NY 877-554-4834 projectshow.com 20-21 CAPSULE Basketball City New York, NY 212-206-8310 capsuleshow.com 20-22 LIBERTY FAIRS Pier 94 New York, NY 212-473-4523 libertyfairs.com

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21-22 KINGPINS DENIM SHOW Skylight Clarkson New York, NY; Info@kingpinsshow.com kingpins.info

4-6 FFANY Hilton New York Hotel New York, NY 212-751-6422 ffany.org

17-19 AGENDA Sands Expo Center Las Vegas, NV 213-223-5111 agendashow.com

21-22 PREMIERE VISION PREVIEW NEW YORK Pier 92 New York, NY 646-351-1942 premierevision-newyork.com

5-8 OUTDOOR RETAILER SUMMER MARKET Salt Palace Convention Center Salt Lake City, UT 949-226-5794 outdoorretailer.com

17-19 CAPSULE LAS VEGAS Venetian Hotel Las Vegas, NV 212-206-8310 capsuleshow.com

21-23 TEXWORLD USA Javits Center New York, NY 770-984-8016 x.401 TexworldUSA.com

6-10 AMERICAS MART Atlanta Apparel Mart Atlanta, GA 404-220-3000 americasmart.com

21-23 THE INTERNATIONAL APPAREL SOURCING SHOW Javits Center New York, NY 770-984-8016 X. 401 apparelsourcingshow.com

AU G U ST 1-3 SOUTHERN CLOTHING MARKET Embassy Suites Hotel Charlotte, NC 704-366-3654 mensapparelclub.com 2-4 CHICAGO COLLECTIVE Merchandise Mart 8th Fl. Market Suites Chicago, IL 312-527-7635 chicagocollectiveonline.com 3-6 LA FASHION MARKET California Market Center Los Angeles, CA 213-630-3600 californiamarketcenter.com 3-6 NEW MART SHOW The New Mart Building Los Angeles, CA 800-677-6278 newmart.net

8-10 WEST COAST TREND SHOW Embassy Suites LAX North Los Angeles, CA 415-505-3376 westcoasttrendshow.com 9-11 THE MEN’S SHOW World Trade Center Dallas, TX 800-DAL-MKTS dallasmarketcenter.com 11-12 PRINTSOURCE NEW YORK Metropolitan Pavilion New York, NY 212-352-1005 printsourcenewyork.com 12-15 DALLAS APPAREL AND ACCESSORIES MARKET World Trade Center Dallas, TX 800-DAL-MKTS dallasmarketcenter.com 15-18 OFF-PRICE SPECIALIST SHOW Sands Expo & Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 262-782-1600 offpriceshow.com 16-19 SOURCING AT MAGIC Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 310-857-7500 magiconline.com/sourcing-at-magic

17-19 FN PLATFORM Las Vegas Convention Center Las Vegas, NV 310-857-7500 magiconline.com/fn-platform 17-19 LIBERTY FAIRS Sands Expo Center Las Vegas, NV 212-473-4523 libertyfairs.com 17-19 THE COLLECTIVE Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, NV 310-857-7500 magiconline.com/magic-mens 17-19 MRKETLV Venetian Hotel Las Vegas, NV 310-208-8765 MRketshow.com 17-19 POOL Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, NV 310-857-7500 magiconline.com/pooltradeshow 17-19 PROJECT Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, NV 310-857-7500 magiconline.com/project-las-vegas 18-19 PGA EXPO Venetian Hotel Las Vegas, NV 800-840-5628 pgafallexpo.com

{ TRADE EVENTS }

23-25 HABERDASHERS GUILD Doubletree Suites Plymouth Meeting, PA 302-540-9548 haberdashersguild.com

10-12 SURF EXPO Orange County Convention Center Orlando, FL 800-947-SURF surfexpo.com

28-30 LA INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE SHOW California Market Center Los Angeles, CA 213-630-3600 californiamarketcenter.com

29-31 N.W. BUYERS DoubleTree by Hilton Bloomington, MN 763-450-2000 nwbuyers.com

11-13 DENVER/WESTERN SHOW Denver Mart Denver, CO 303-295-1040 denver-wesa.com

OCTOBER

30-9/1 THE BOSTON COLLECTIVE Holiday Inn Boxborough, MA 508-655-7158 bostoncollective.com

SEPTEMBER

15-17 PREMIERE VISION PREVIEW PARIS Villeponte-Parc des Expositions Paris, France +33(0)4 72 60 65 55 premierevision.com

8-10 IDEABIELLA/ MILANO UNICA Fairgrounds of Fiera Milano City Milan, Italy +39 015 8483242 milanounica.it/ITA/home.php

20-21 MIDWEST APPAREL CLUB Embassy Suites Livonia Livonia, MI 734-432-9790 midwestapparelreps.com

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12-15 LA FASHION MARKET California Market Center Los Angeles, CA 213-630-3600 californiamarketcenter.com 12-15 THE NEW MART SHOW The New Mart Building Los Angeles, CA 213-627-0671 newmart.net 15-19 AMERICAS MART Atlanta Apparel Mart Atlanta, GA 404-220-3000 americasmart.com

18-19 THE COBB SHOW Cobb Galleria Centre Atlanta, GA 404-915-8059 thecobbshow.biz 21-24 DALLAS MARKET APPAREL & ACCESSORIES SHOW World Trade Center Dallas, TX 800-DAL-MKTS dallasmarketcenter.com

DECEMBER 2-4 FFANY Hilton New York Hotel New York, NY 212-751-6422 ffany.org

NEW YO RK JU LY 2 0 —2 2 , 2015 PIER 94

M A K E W A V E S W W W. L IB E RTY FAIRS .CO M @L IB E RTY FAIR S #L IB E RTY FAIR S #BR A NDTO G E T H E R

L AS VEGAS AU GU ST 17—19, 2015 SA NDS EXP O | VENETI AN

ZANETTI

In stock Service 800.408.7848 Zanetti.com

A curated section by Michael Macko brings a fresh perspective and infectious enthusiasm from burgeoning designers to MRket.

ANTHONY MILES AUSTEN HELLER BENSON BERNARD ZINS BORGO 28 BRETT JOHNSON COLLECTION C89 CAMP HERO CAPRI CARDINAL OF CANADA COOPER JONES SUPPLY CREED DOMONIQUE ENGLISH UTOPIA ERNEST HEMINGWAY GALET GUGLIELMO G HOOK + ALBERT I.C. RICHARD CHOI JERRY KAYE COLLECTION KIFF KIFF KORCHMAR

LANAI COLLECTION LEDBURY LOFT 604/CESARANI MARK/GIUSTI MATT TOTILLO MEYER MICHAEL’S MINERALS NORTHERN COBBLER PAISLEY & GRAY PASOTTI PAT & CAN PROSSIMO JACK VICTOR RAFI & OLGA RES IPSA RING JACKET SPIVEY TED BAKER LONDON TEDDY STRATFORD WALTON WOOD FARM WITHOUT PREJUDICE WOOD UNDERWEAR

AUSTEN HELLER

COOPER JONES SUPPLY

*Introducing Vanguards Gallery Platinum: Home to the newest names in luxurious, elegant, and refined menswear www.mrketshow.com/vanguards-gallery

#vanguardsgallery

KORCHMAR

LANAI COLLECTION

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DOMONIQUE

RES IPSA

RING JACKET

MARK/GIUSTI

CREED

RAFI & OLGA PAISLEY & GRAY

GUGLIELMO G

GALET

PAT & CAN

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BRANDS

SANYO

EUROPERFUMES

UMBERTO VALLATI

BLANQAZUL

LUCHIANO VISCONTI BLACK

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

PENROSE LONDON

SINCLAIR

J U LY 1 9 - 2 1 , 2 01 5 | S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 6

PANTHERELLA

MICHAEL KORS

PALAZZO SARTORIALE

ALPETORA/G. MANZONI

FLY3

MON ART -PUCCIO DI PIERO

TRAFALGAR

MACEOO

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

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BRANDS

FABER CASTELL DESIGN

CHECKER BOX BY RANDY GERVAIS

PUNTO BLANCO

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

ANDREW FEZZA

BRESCIANI

GRAF VON FABER CASTELL

BRADOR

BOAT 54

J U LY 1 9 - 2 1 , 2 01 5 | S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 6

DKNY

FOX UMBRELLAS

ELIZABETH PARKER

PAOLO VITALE

BEY-BERK INT’L

HOMAND BRANDU

ZERO RESTRICTION

GIMO’S

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

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BRANDS GERMANO

THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY

GIOSBRUN ROMA PARIOLI

BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO

PAUL BETENLY CLOTHING

DION

120

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

GEOFF NICHOLSON

ARALDI 1930

J U LY 1 9 - 2 1 , 2 01 5 | S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 6

EYEBOBS LLC

BERTIGO

NETTLETON SHOES

CAMPBELLO

LAZYJACK PRESS

M-CLIP

REMO TULLIANI

SCOTT NICHOL

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BRANDS INGRAM

BARONI COUTURE PRIVE MAXDAVOLI

RENCO BIG AND TALL

GLOBAL MINT

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

ST. CROIX AND HERITAGE BY ST. CROIX

ANDREW MARC CLOTHING

HOLEBROOK

TALLIA ORANGE

J U LY 1 9 - 2 1 , 2 01 5 | S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 6

DONALD TRUMP SIGNATURE COLLECTION

LEATHER MAN LTD.

DINO BIGIONI

TOMMY BAHAMA LEATHER GOODS

SEAN JOHN

HARDWICK CLOTHES

PEERLESS BOYS

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

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BRANDS SOUTHERN TIDE

RICHARD JAMES

S. COHEN INC.

FAIRWAY & GREENE

MAJESTIC INTERNATIONAL

CUTTER & BUCK

124

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

PIETRO PROVENZALE

SURVIVALON

J U LY 1 9 - 2 1 , 2 01 5 | S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 6

LEE ALLISON

TORI RICHARD, LTD.

FEFE GLAMOUR POCHETTE

JOHNNIE O.

MISTERNIC-CASHMERE

CHELSEY IMPORTS

MARC MARCS SOCKS

RAFFI LINEA UOMO

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

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BRANDS

TAMPA FUEGO

MISSANI LE COLLEZIONI

SCHNEIDERS SALZBURG

ALLEN EDMONDS

BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL

126

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

ISAAC MIZRAHI

HALSEY

J U LY 1 9 - 2 1 , 2 01 5 | S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 6

NIKKY

LEJON

BOW-TIE

SANI GUALTIERO FIRENZE

EDWARD GREEN

LLOYD SHOES

BAGNOLI SARTORIA NAPOLI

FILIPPO DE LAURENTIS

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

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BRANDS

DRAKE’S

128

1177

GALLOTTI

GALLIA

BOHIO

CALABRESE DAL 1924

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

ITALWEAR/A.BOSSI

J U LY 1 9 - 2 1 , 2 01 5 | S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 01 6

CALVIN KLEIN

MONTECHIARO

COLLARED GREENS

MONTALIANI

BILLA KHAKIS

LAUREN RALPH LAUREN

IBIZA

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BRANDS

EDWARD ARMAH

FERRANTE

SUIXTIL

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THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

SEBASTIEN JAMES COLLECTION

BRANCACCIOC

CASTAWAY NANTUCKET ISLAND

CHELSEY IMPORTS

LUCIANO MORESCO

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KLOTERS MILANO

HIGH COTTON

BOGA

TACCALITI SHIRTS

ARTISTO 18

ANDREW J. SHIRTS

STRONG BOALT COLLECTION

PULITO ABBIGLIAMENTO DAL 1885

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BRANDS

PRIVATE STOCK NECKWEAR

TINO COSMA

JIMMY SALES NECKWEAR/BRUNO PIATTELLI

BENTLEY CRAVATS CORP.

MARCO VALENTINO

ITALO FERRETTI

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BELSIRE MILANO

PETER BLAIR ACCESSORIES

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XPOOOS SOCKS

ALESSANDRO GHERARDI

SILVIO FIORELLO

MARCELLO SPORT

PERU UNLIMITED

RAMBLERS WAY

CUFFLINKS, INC.

NATURAL BASIX

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BRANDS ARCURI TIES

DI BELLO BY NIPAL

WALTON DESIGNS

GJ CAHN SCARFS

CODIS MAYA

BRETELLE & BRACES

PERUVIANNI

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BRESCIANI

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MORA

VITALIANO

GJ CAHN BOW TIES

BEDFORD MEN

BIRD DOG BAY

ALESSANDROSIMONI

MARCHESI DI COMO

DUCKHEAD CRITTENDEN

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070 STUDIO LANDI Đ 1177 Đ ACQUAVIVA Đ AGE OF WISDOM Đ ALAN PAINE KNITWEAR Đ ALDEN Đ ALESSANDRO GHERARDI Đ ALESSANDROSIMONI Đ ALLEN EDMONDS Đ ALPETORA/G. MANZONI Đ ANDREW FEZZA Đ ANDREW MARC CLOTHING Đ ANDREW-J SHIRTS Đ ANTHONY MILES Đ ARALDI 1930 Đ ARCURI TIES Đ ARISTO 18 Đ AUSTEN HELLER Đ AUSTIN JEFFERS Đ BAADE II, LTD. Đ BACCO BUCCI Đ BAGNOLI SARTORIA NAPOLI Đ BARBOUR CLASSIC Đ BARBOUR INTERNATIONAL Đ BARONI COUTURE/ PRIVE/MAXDAVOLI/TREND Đ BELFORD MEN Đ BELSIRE MILANO Đ BELTS + DI Đ PIAZZA STEFANO Đ BENSON Đ BENTLEY CRAVATS CORP Đ BERNARD ZINS Đ BERTIGO Đ BEY-BERK INT’L Đ BILL BLASS Đ BILLS KHAKIS Đ BIRD DOG BAY Đ BLANKENSHIP DRY GOODS Đ BLANQAZUL Đ BMG IMPORTS INC. Đ BOAT 54 Đ BOHIO Đ BORGO 28 Đ BOW-TIE Đ BRADOR Đ BRANCACCIOC. Đ BRANDOLINI Đ BRANDOLINI BOYS Đ BRESCIANI Đ BRETELLE & BRACES Đ BRETT JOHNSON COLLECTION Đ BREUER SAS Đ BRYANT PARK NEW YORK Đ C89 Đ CALABRESE DAL 1924 Đ CALVIN KLEIN CLOTHING Đ CAMP HERO Đ CAMPOBELLO Đ CANALETTO Đ CAPRI Đ CARDINAL OF CANADA Đ CARLOS SANTOS Đ CASTAWAY-NANTUCKET ISLAND Đ CHECKER BOX BY RANDY GERVAIS Đ CHELSEY IMPORTS Đ CHRISTOPHER LENA Đ CODIS MAYA Đ COLLARED GREENS Đ COOPER JONES SUPPLY Đ CORRENTE Đ COTTON BROTHERS Đ CREED Đ CUFFLINKS, INC. Đ CUTTER & BUCK Đ DAPPER CLASSICS Đ DAVEK ACCESSORIES Đ DEAKIN AND FRANCIS Đ DI BELLO BY NIPAL Đ DIMENSIONS BY WCM Đ DINO BIGIONI Đ DION Đ DKNY Đ DOBBS HATS Đ DOLCEPUNTA Đ DOMONIQUE Đ DONALD TRUMP SIGNATURE COLLECTION Đ DRAKE’S Đ DUCKHEAD/CRITTENDEN Đ ECCO Đ EDWARD ARMAH Đ EDWARD GREEN Đ ELIZABETH PARKER ENGLAND Đ EMPIRE CLOTHING Đ ENGLISH LAUNDRY Đ ENGLISH UTOPIA Đ ENZO TOVARE Đ EQUILIBRIO Đ ERNEST HEMINGWAY Đ EURO FASHIONS/CHIARI/EMILIO YUSTE/ITALUOMO Đ EUROPERFUMES Đ EYEBOBS LLC Đ FABER-CASTELL DESIGN Đ FAIRWAY & GREENE Đ FEFÉ GLAMOUR POCHETTE Đ FERRANTE Đ FERTINI Đ FILIPPO DE LAURENTIS Đ FLY BELT Đ FLY3 Đ FLYNT Đ FOX UMBRELLAS Đ FREDRICK MARTIN Đ GALET Đ GALLIA Đ GALLOTTI Đ GARMENT GROUP INC. Đ GEOFF NICHOLSON Đ GERMANO Đ GERMANO GHERGO Đ GICAPRI Đ GIMO’S Đ GIONFRIDDO Đ GIOSBRUN ROMA PARIOLI Đ GITMAN BROS Đ GJ CAHN BOW TIES Đ GJ CAHN SCARFS Đ GLOBAL MINT Đ GRAF VON FABER-CASTELL Đ GRUPPO BRAVO Đ GUGLIELMO G Đ HALSEY Đ HARDWICK CLOTHES Đ HIGH COTTON Đ HOLEBROOK Đ HOMAND Đ HOOK + ALBERT Đ HORN LEGEND Đ I.C. RICHARD CHOI Đ IBIZA Đ IDESIGN APPAREL Đ IKE BEHAR Đ IKE BEHAR TAILORED Đ IMPULSO Đ INGRAM Đ INSIGNIA DESIGN GROUP/DIV. OF PVH CORP. Đ INTERNATIONAL LAUNDRY Đ ISAAC MIZRAHI LEATHER GOODS Đ ITALO FERRETTI Đ ITALWEAR/A. BOSSI Đ J.M. DICKENS Đ J.S. BLANK & CO/BARBARA BLANK Đ JACK VICTOR Đ JAMES CAMPBELL Đ JAMES CAMPBELL SOCKS Đ JAN LESLIE/LINKUP/MACH SPEED/MAXREED Đ JARED LANG Đ JAY & LEONARD Đ JERRY KAYE COLLECTION Đ JIMMY SALES NECKWEAR/BRUNO PIATTELLI Đ JOHN H. DANIEL CUSTOM TAILORS Đ JOHNNIE O Đ KIFF KIFF Đ KLOTERS MILANO Đ KORCHMAR Đ LANAI COLLECTION Đ LAUREN RALPH LAUREN Đ LAZYJACK PRESS Đ LEATHER MAN LTD. Đ LEDBURY Đ LEE ALLISON Đ LEFT COAST TEE Đ LEJON Đ LIPSON SHIRTMAKERS Đ LLOYD SHOES Đ LOFT 604/CESARANI Đ LONDON FOG Đ LORENZONI Đ LUCHIANO VISCONTI Đ LUCHIANO VISCONTI BLACK Đ LUCIANO BARDELLI Đ LUCIANO MORESCO Đ MACEOO Đ MADISON CREEK OUTFITTERS Đ MAJESTIC INTERNATIONAL Đ MAKER AND COMPANY Đ MANTONI Đ MARC MARCS SOCKS Đ MARCELLO SPORT Đ MARCHESI DI COMO Đ MARCO VALENTINO Đ MARK/GIUSTI Đ MATT TOTILLO Đ MAYSER HEADWEAR Đ M-CLIP Đ MEYER Đ MEZLAN Đ MICHAEL KORS Đ MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION Đ MICHAEL ZECHBAUER Đ MICHAEL’S Đ MINERALS Đ MISSANI LE COLLEZIONI Đ MISTERNIC CASHMERE Đ MODENA Đ MON ART- PUCCIO DI PIERO Đ MONTALIANI Đ MONTECHIARO Đ MORA Đ NAT NAST LUXURY ORIGINALS Đ NATURAL BASIX Đ NETTLETON SHOES Đ NICOLE MILLER Đ NIGEL KNOX Đ NIKKY Đ NORTHERN COBBLER Đ ORIGINAL PENGUIN HOSIERY Đ OVER UNDER CLOTHING Đ OVERTON Đ PACIFIC SILK Đ PAISLEY & GRAY Đ PALAZZO SARTORIALE Đ PANTHERELLA Đ PAOLO ALBIZZATI Đ PAOLO VITALE Đ PARABOOT Đ PASOTTI Đ PAT & CAN Đ PATRICK ASSARAF Đ PAUL BETENLY CLOTHING Đ PEERLESS BOYS Đ PEERLESS CLOTHING USA, INC. Đ PELICAN COAST CLOTHING Đ PELLE LINE Đ PENROSE LONDON Đ PER PEDES SOCKS Đ PERU UNLIMITED Đ PERUVIANNI Đ PETER-BLAIR ACCESSORIES Đ PIETRO PROVENZALE Đ PRIVATE STOCK NECKWEAR AND ACCESSORIES Đ PROPER SHIRTINGS Đ PROSSIMO JACK VICTOR Đ PULITO ABBIGLIAMENTO DAL 1885 Đ PUNTO BLANCO Đ PUNTO SOCKS Đ RAFFI LINEA UOMO Đ RAFI & OLGA Đ RAMBLERS WAY Đ REMO TULLIANI Đ RENCO BIG AND TALL Đ REPORT COLLECTION Đ REPORTER Đ RES IPSA Đ RICHARD JAMES Đ RICHMART Đ RING JACKET Đ RIVIERA RED Đ RIZZI Đ ROBERT BARAKETT Đ ROBERT GRAHAM HOSIERY Đ ROMA INDUSTRIES Đ ROWDY GENTLEMAN Đ S. COHEN INC. Đ SANI GUALTIERO FIRENZE Đ SANYO Đ SAVE THE DUCK Đ SAXX UNDERWEAR Đ SCHNEIDERS SALZBURG Đ SCOJO NEW YORK Đ SCOTT NICHOL Đ SEAN JOHN Đ SEAWARD + STEARN LONDON Đ SEBASTIEN JAMES COLLECTION Đ SILVIO FIORELLO Đ SIMON CARTER Đ SINCLAIR Đ SMATHERS AND BRANSON Đ SOUTHERN MARSH Đ SOUTHERN PROPER Đ SOUTHERN SHIRT Đ SOUTHERN TIDE Đ SOUTHWICK Đ SPIVEY Đ ST. CROIX AND HERITAGE BY ST. CROIX Đ STATE TRADITIONS Đ STETSON HATS Đ STEVEN LAND Đ STRONG BOALT Đ STUDIO IL Đ SUIXTIL Đ SURVIVALON Đ TACCALITI SHIRTS Đ TAILOR VINTAGE Đ TALLIA ORANGE Đ TALLIA ORANGE HOSIERY Đ TAMPA FUEGO Đ TATEOSSIAN LTD. Đ TED BAKER Đ TED BAKER LONDON Đ TEDDY STRATFORD Đ THADDEUS Đ THE BIRD DOG GROUP Đ THE BRITISH APPAREL COLLECTION LTD. Đ THE BRITISH BELT COMPANY Đ THE FRAGRANCE GROUP Đ THOMAS DEAN CO. Đ THOMPSON Đ TIGER MOUNTAIN Đ TIGLIO INC. Đ TIGLIO LUXE Đ TIGLIO ROSSO Đ TINO COSMA Đ TODD SNYDER Đ TOMMY BAHAMA LEATHER GOODS Đ TORI RICHARD, LTD. Đ TORINO Đ TORRAS Đ TOSCANO AQUA Đ TRAFALGAR Đ TRANDS USA Đ TRUE GRIT Đ UMBERTO VALLATI Đ VANNUCCI Đ VINEYARD VINES Đ VITALIANO Đ WALTON DESIGNS Đ WALTON WOOD FARM Đ WIGENS Đ WILLIAM LAMB Đ WINDSOR COLLECTION Đ WITHOUT PREJUDICE Đ WOOD UNDERWEAR Đ XPOOOS SOCKS Đ ZERO RESTRICTION THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

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MRKET/VANGUARDS GALLERY IS EXCITED TO HAVE SOVARO JOIN US AS OUR PREMIER WATER SPONSOR.

Based in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, BEAM showcases the best in furniture, lighting, art and home goods from both established and emerging artists and designers.

Co-founded by Ali Arain, a lawyer, and Gregory Coccaro, an interior designer, BEAM’s mission is simple: to bring you the best home goods and accessories for your well-designed life. Discover their pop-up shop this July offering a curated selection of merchandise all available for purchase right on the show floor.

This season MRket/Vanguards Gallery is thrilled to be partnering with Southern Proper to produce July’s complimentary tote bag.

(While supplies last)

TEN YEARS NEVER LOOKED SO GOOD Since 2005, Southern Proper has been a truly authentic clothing brand that strives to spread Southern culture across the country.

The South is best known for its charm and grace, and these are the pillars that have built our ten year brand legacy. As we celebrate this style milestone, we introduce the anniversary collection that honors our bow tie beginnings and pioneers new products, like the launch of our limited edition SoPro Sneaks, giving the Southern Proper customer a glimpse at our future!

138

THE BRANDS AT MRKET NY

Introducing the world’s first line of luxury coolers where Style & Sophistication meet Durability & Performance Sovaro is making their market week debut this July!

Stop by one of the many Sovaro coolers located throughout the show floor to get your complimentary water and be sure to visit their main hub in booth #839 to check out the entire Sovaro collection!

INTRODUCING

THE BOOK CLUB The Book Club is a collaboration between MRket/Vanguards Gallery and publishing house Glitterati and making its debut this July. The Book Club will showcase some of Glitterati’s top titles in a variety of genres including design, art, travel, fashion, photography and popular culture - all available for purchase within their pop-up shop.

Be part of the club!

Jack Mitchell of the iconic Mitchell’s Family of Stores (Mitchells/Richards/ Marshs/Wilkes Bashford) will be onsite and promoting his revised and updated book “Hug Your Customers” with a book signing on Sunday, July 19th.

DID YOU KNOW?

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Monkey N Middle’s web-based software enables brands and their retailers to transact online 24/7/365. Everyday, thousands of retailers and

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distributors across the world place orders on portals powered by Monkey N Middle, resulting in billions of dollars in wholesale sales.

Give your team the tools they need. To learn more visit:

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HOW___________WORKS

BY MICHAEL MACKO

Steven Kolb, CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, the man responsible for spearheading New York Fashion Week: Men's, is remarkably down-to-earth and understated. In his nine-year tenure at the CFDA, he has become one of the most influential people in American fashion and has helped launch many budding designers’ careers. Here, we take a look inside his Bleecker Street office in New York City and learn how his surroundings inspire him and how Steven Kolb works.

There are five private offices; mine is black and they get progressively lighter to a very pale gray. The colors of the CFDA are red, black and white; the architect who designed the offices wanted to stay true to that.

Each office represents one decade of the CFDA’s 50 years. I had first choice and selected the 1980s, even though the photograph I chose by Arthur Elgort (featuring models Maggie Rizer in a red Bill Blass coat and skirt and Ryan Locke) is from the November ’98 issue of American Vogue. Prior to working at the CFDA I was at DIFFA (Design Industries Foundation Fighting AIDS) and had the opportunity to work on several projects with Maggie. She’s a big supporter.

My husband Jay and I rescued Donna about three years ago. We believe she’s between four and five years old. She’s our third dog: the first was Dalila, the second was Dezarae and now we have Donna. Everyone asks if she’s named after Donna Karan but she’s not: it's just a “D” thing.

Designers on Instagram: #Fashion, is the CFDA's 10th, and most recent book, which highlights some of the best Instagrams from CFDA members with a foreword by the cofounder and CEO of Instagram, Kevin Systrom. Currently there are more than 215 million Instagrams with the #fashion hashtag, It’s a thing. The book is available for $19.95 on Amazon.

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MR MR-Mag.com

About 10 years ago, my husband Jay and I were on a hike in Florida and I saw my first owl. I was entranced by its elegance and beauty.

Later on that trip we were at a flea market and found an owl figure, and so my collection began. I now have over 1,000 owls, most of them in my home in Pennsylvania.

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

When I moved to New York in the 1980s I bought three little cactus plants and moved them from apartment to apartment. I still have one today at my house in Pennsylvania that’s so big I can no longer move it. The tallest cactus on my office credenza is an offshoot of that original cactus.

1.855.44.ZEGNA | ZEGNA.COM

The Ultimate Casual Luxury in Made to Measure

MR JULY 2015

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE / MR AWARDS

A BUSINESS JOURNALS PUBLICATION

Vol. 26 No. 4