MR Magazine: January 2017

JANUARY 2017

FALL '17 CLOTHING: SARTORIAL KNOCKOUTS A CENTURY OF STYLE: HALLS KANSAS CITY OXXFORD CLOTHES

THE NEW CONTEMPORARIES SHOW PREVIEW MRKET/PROJECT LUXURY STORE SURVIVAL TIPS BLOOMINGDALE’S ON OFFENSE

business outlook:

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A CENTURY OF STYLE

Kansas City’s famed Halls Department Store has been serving the heartland for 100 years.

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READING THE TEA LEAVES Bloomingdale’s optimistic menswear VP Dan Leppo tells us what’s working, what’s not, and what excites him.

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THE NEW CONTEMPORARIES Stores including Kinfolk, Stag, Tabor and MartinPatrick3 are enticing younger customers with great assortments and special events.

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10 TIPS FOR LUXURY STORES

More amenities, a broader selection of gifts, and curated collections are among the ways high-end stores can revive their business.

THE RETURN OF THE TURTLENECK

This longtime fashion staple is back in men’s wardrobes, pairing beautifully with suits, patterned sportcoats and more.

Contents

Also in this issue: 8 Editor’s Letter 12 Ones to Watch 22 Milestones 36 Furnishings 42 Fashion 80 How Ovadia & Sons Work ON OUR COVER: SUIT: Southwick; SHIRT: Eton; TIE: Drake’s. ON THIS PAGE: SUIT: Ring Jacket; SOCKS: L.B.M. 1911; SHOES: Johnston & Murphy, PRODUCED BY Michael Macko. PHOTOGRAPHY BY Menelik Puryear

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EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF _______________________________________________________________________________ Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 600-3201 KAREN.GROSSMAN@UBM.COM MANAGING EDITOR ______________________________________________________________________________________ Brian Scott Lipton (212) 600-3375 BRIAN.LIPTON@UBM.COM WEB EDITOR _____________________________________________________________________________________________ Stephen Garner (212) 600-3350 STEPHEN.GARNER@UBM.COM FASHION DIRECTOR ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Michael Macko MICHAEL.MACKO@UBM.COM

ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER _____________________________________________________________________________________ Stuart Nifoussi (212) 600-3382 STUART.NIFOUSSI@UBM.COM PUBLISHER _____________________________________________________________________________________________________ Lizette Chin (212) 600-3339 LIZETTE.CHIN@UBM.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER _______________________________________________________________________________ Michelle Brown (212) 600-3325 MICHELLE.BROWN@UBM.COM ADVERTISING COORDINATOR ___________________________________________________________________________ Donna Doyle (212) 212-600-3347 DONNA.DOYLE@UBM.COM

ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Hans Gschliesser DESIGNER ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Peggy Eadie EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE ____________________________________________________________________________ 2 PENN PLAZA, 15TH FL, NEW YORK, NY 10121 (212) 600-3000 BUSINESS OFFICE _________________________________________________________________________________ 535 CONNECTICUT AVENUE, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 523-7000

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ PRESIDENT, MARIO’S Erick DeLeon ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ STORE MANAGER/BUYER, MARTINPATRICK3 Doug Ewert ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ CEO, TAILORED BRANDS Dan Farrington _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP Dan Leppo _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ SVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller_________________________________________________________________________________________________________ PRESIDENT, OUTLETS, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Tom Ott __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ VP/GMM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE David Witman ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ EVP/GMM, NORDSTROM

UBM FASHION GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Michael Alic MICHAEL.ALIC@UBM.COM PRESIDENT MEN’S FASHION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Erik Ulin ERIK.ULIN@UBM.COM VICE-PRESIDENT MRKET ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ Lizette Chin LIZETTE.CHIN@UBM.COM

EVENTS MRKET/PROJECT JANUARY 23-25, 2017 — JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NYC MAGIC/PROJECT LV/FN PLATFORM FEBRUARY 21-23, 2017 — MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER, LAS VEGAS, NV ALSO I N 2017 MRKET/PROJECT NY – JULY | PROJECT, LV – AUGUST

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{ EDITORIAL }

A FEW CONSTANTS

Everything changes but human nature.

OF ALL THE MESSAGES BOMBARDING US these days on a daily basis, most seem to involve change: the need for it, the accelerated pace of it, our aversion to it, the disastrous consequences of ignoring it. We at MR magazine have been encouraging change for the past 27 years, hoping to inspire our readers (retailers, manufacturers, marketers) to blaze new trails.

I’m now worried, however, that the forecasters, the industry analysts, the highly respected “disruptors” might be going too far by suggesting that nothing from the past is relevant to the future and that we should throw it all away and start with a clean slate.

Cases in point: Two of the smartest industry gurus I know are G+G’s Simon Graj and Robin Lewis of The Robin Report. Graj recently did a presentation for the Retail Marketing Society at which he suggested that we let go of long-held opinions, which merely validate the past, in order to create a culture of discovery. “The apparel industry needs more ideas and fewer sku’s.

We’re in an idea economy: great ideas are the drivers of new business.” In a December report, Lewis declared that “nothing happening in this world today can be compared to any days of our past,” that “the new normal is unpredictability,” and that “to achieve any level of sustainable happiness, what’s needed is a total industry reboot.”

I dare not argue with these experts; in fact, I heartily agree with them. But I also maintain that they’re experts largely because of their past experiences, that experience matters, and that when it comes to apparel retailing, the wheel has not yet been totally reinvented. In other words, those of us who have survived the past tumultuous decade are still here because we know stuff, because we continue to learn from our mistakes, and because we’re willing to take calculated risks. Although many retailers and vendors these days are feeling like the sky is falling, trust me: it’s not. We lived through 9/11, we lived through the crash of ‘08, and we’ll live through our current challenges: an online onslaught, non-stop price promotions and eroding profit margins among them.

In this issue of MR, we profile numerous industry risk-takers who might not be starting over but who are in fact evolving. Dan Leppo at Bloomingdale’s (page 14) has intensified his focus on exclusive product and collaborations, David Sirkin at PVH (page 36) is obsessed with dress shirt innovation (stretch collars, magnetic closures), Kelly Cole at Halls (page 24) is taking the store to his customers, Bob Denton at Oxxford Clothes (page 22) is growing the top end of custom clothing, while resourceful contemporary merchants (Stag, MartinPatrick3, Kinfolk, Tabor, page 16) are creating meaningful lifestyle experiences in their stores. Also in this issue: fabulous fall ‘17 tailored clothing, a Luxury Store Survival guide, Brands to Watch, a preview of the upcoming MRket and Project shows, and lots more.

Yes the need to change is a very appropriate mandate these days but some things remain constant: guys want to look good, to have fun, to be part of a community or cause that’s greater than themselves, to find great product easily and quickly, to not be ripped off. While there’s no universal solution for getting men into your stores these days, there’s plenty of opportunity for those who believe in themselves.

See you at the Javits!

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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PHOTO BY KEITH BARRACLOUGH PHOTOGRAPHY

“We lived through 9/11, we lived through the crash of ‘08, and we’ll live through our current challenges: an online onslaught, non-stop price promotions and eroding profit margins among them.”

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{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} }

“Knowing that men’s taste levels have evolved, we are looking to elevate our line to a more refined and modern design.”

Knit Picks KINROSS CASHMERE

Relaunching this January at The Tents at Project in New York with a whole new look is Kinross Cashmere’s updated men’s line. Indeed, the collection has been completely overhauled, largely to the credit of designer Christian Arkins, who joined the Kinross design team in the early summer of 2016.

The focus of the new men’s line (which will retail between $140 and $750) will be to create a broader range of modern fashion silhouettes while also incorporating the brand’s Scottish roots. (The brand will also debut a new marketing campaign for fall 2017 that will reflect this new aesthetic.)

“Knowing that men’s taste levels have evolved, largely due to the access to fast fashion, we are looking to elevate our line to a more refined and modern design,” says Arkins. “We are adding interesting textures to our knits while applying new techniques and yarns to achieve a more high-fashion product.

You should also expect to see a new slightly tailored silhouette throughout the line.”

Also on tap are new knitwear styles (which include fabulous knit blazers and shawl cardigans) as well as new yarns for the brand, like Merino wool and cotton/cashmere blends. Kinross has also added made in the USA shirts, utilizing Italian and Portugese fabrics, that will pair well with the knitwear Kinross will be unveiling. Made in Italy cashmere ties as well as American-made cashmere ties and scarves will round out the new offering. – SG

Expanding Vision RING JACKET

While Ring Jacket is new to most of the world, this Japanese luxury tailored clothing brand has a rich history that dates back more than 60 years.

And one thing has been true since the beginning: Ring Jacket has produced its tailored clothing in-house, with a full-canvas construction that features the handsewing skills of artisans in its Osaka workshop. Known in part for its distinctive textured fabrics, Ring Jacket collaborates with the finest mills in the world to develop unique cloths that are exclusively its own.

“Our balloon fabric is by far our best-selling fabric,” says Nicholas Ragosta, director of wholesale for Taiwa, the international wholesaler and distributor for Ring Jacket.

“This fabric is made of 100 percent wool cloth but acts like a jersey alternative in that it doesn’t wrinkle and is good for traveling. It expands and contracts while retaining its shape, much like a balloon would perform.”

While the label made its official debut here in the U.S. back in December 2013 at The Armoury in New York, it didn’t open wider distribution in the States until the fall of 2015. Ragosta says that the brand’s sportcoats (which retail between $1,200 and $1,750) are its best performing category, but he has seen also significant growth in Ring Jacket’s shirting category (especially its knit dress shirts made in jersey cloth).

So what can we expect from Ring Jacket this year? “For 2017, we are going to stock core styles here in the U.S. for easy replenishment. We hope that this will be a great resource for our wholesale accounts.”

Look for Ring Jacket next month at The Tents in Las Vegas. - SG

“Our balloon fabric is by far our best-selling cloth.”

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{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

Shades of Grays G4 SPORT

In crafting G4, Grays had two major objectives: durability and affordability.

Necessity can be the mother of both invention and reinvention.

Just ask Stewart Richard Grays, the director and designer at his 90-year-old, family-owned British company, Grays. In late 2015, he decided to re-launch the brand’s accessories division, which included four canvas and leather bags in the “Aviator collection,” named because of the shape of their handle. (Bags retail from $165.)

Then, last spring, when Grays was offered a last-minute opportunity to showcase these bags in a runway show in Spain, the savvy entrepreneur decided to make another dream come true: the creation of the G4 Sport line of activewear, which will make its official debut at the MRket New York show in January.

This new line features vests, t-shirts, hoodies and other apparel than can go from the gym to the streets. “I know there’s a lot of athletic-oriented leisure wear on the market, but I wanted to make something that works outside the gym as well,” says Grays.

In crafting G4, Grays had two major objectives: durability and affordability. (Most of the line will retail from $25-$120). “We made sure to use high-tech and high-quality fabrics, sourced from Italy and South Africa,” he says. “The whole idea of the line is that it should follow style, but not trend. It’s important to me that I’m not making something that can only be worn for one season.”

Moreover, since G4 will be sold globally, it will sell both summer and winter clothes, which will include cotton cardigans and slightly heavier coats. But no matter if you live in America or Australia, Grays has the same message for you: “The most important thing for any man is to both look good and feel good in what you wear. That’s what really accentuates your confidence.” —BSL

The New Normal THE NORMAL BRAND

The founders of The Normal Brand, Jimmy, Conrad and Lan Sansone, have always spent their lives between the city and the country. While this family of 10 children spent their daily lives in St. Louis, they escaped to the outdoors every chance they could get in order to hunt, fish, and spend nights around the fire and days at the lake. Finding ways to spend their free time was easy, but finding the right clothing was hard.

“This whole thing started because we couldn't find a shirt that would hold up to our lifestyle,” says Jimmy. “We needed a brand that made sense to us — to our day-to-day. We wanted a normal shirt.”

So the three brothers, along with their father, set out to create a business built on everyday products made of top-notch fabrics that can stand up to the wear of the outdoors, but can also be worn to work. “Durability and versatility are of the utmost importance, and every detail matters,” adds Jimmy. “Beat it up outside and take it out to dinner that night, that’s what we want our guys to do.”

Currently, The Normal Brand can be found in retailers such as M. Dumas & Sons in Charleston, South Carolina and Two Old Hippies in Nashville, Tennessee, but Jimmy maintains that he and his brothers are focused on growing their wholesale business for 2017. “This January we will be doing our first national show,” says Jimmy. “At MRket New York, we will be introducing outerwear for the first time. We’ve also broadened our range of wovens and knits, and are working on a new indigo program that I think retailers are going to love.” – SG

“This whole thing started because we couldn’t find a shirt that would hold up to our lifestyle; we needed a brand that made sense to us — to our day-to-day. We wanted a normal shirt.”

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2017 MR

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{ PEOPLE }

Reading

theTEA

LEAVES

Over a bacon and pepper quiche at Le Train Bleu, we caught up with the always optimistic menswear VP of Bloomingdale’s to talk business.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN WHAT’S WORKING IN MEN’S AT THE MOMENT, AND WHAT’S NOT? Anyone who tells you business is good is a little off. Fortunately, ours has gotten better with each quarter this year, but it’s not yet where it needs to be. Clearly, core product isn’t what’s ringing the register. In tailored clothing, for example, which is still a sizable business for us, there’s been a migration away from suits toward soft tailored pieces. Also, better business is performing well (both Canali @$1,895 and Armani are doing relatively well), as is Suitsupply (a sharper priced concession business from which we’re learning a lot about breaking traditional clothing rules). But, unforunately, our mid pricepoints ($900-$1,200 retails) are getting squeezed.

ABOVE AND OPPOSITE PAGE: Canali and Suitsupply are among the tailored clothing brands that are peforming well, says Leppo.

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{ PEOPLE } SO HOW DO YOU FIX THIS? already in pilot in Short Hills, allow customers to press a button for a We now think about clothing as both an evolving fashion item and an sales associate. (Of course we’ll perfect it before we roll it out: the worst investment purchase. If guys are going to spend money for a suit these thing would be to press the button and no one comes.) Another example days, the look is somewhat dandified. Even our sportcoat business, is women’s shoes: associates use mobile phones and runners so they never which is mostly soft shoulder/deconstructed, is largely patterned to wear have to leave the customer. We’re on the cusp of amazing changes using dress-up or dress-down with beautiful Italian dress pants or else with technology: having the right product in stock, getting it there faster, ease jeans. But while patterns are key and slimmer fits are now mainstream, of return, same day delivery, buy online/pick-up in store, websites cussuit models remain relatively conservative: tomized for the individual consumer. I’ve given we do very little business in DBs or vested up long ago trying to tell customers what’s imstyles. portant to them: today more than ever, the cusHOW’S BUSINESS IN DRESS FURNISHINGS? tomer calls the shots. We still have to read the tea It’s been a little tough; dress shirts are doing leaves but we can’t dictate. We know that either better than ties. There’s a secular trend towe build loyalty or it’s a race to the bottom, which wards business casual in the workplace that is not a good formula for Bloomingdale’s. Our the menswear industry can fight only so strategy is different than many of our competihard. Still, better furnishings brands (Turntors in that we’re not racing to open outlet stores. bull & Asser, Eton, Hilditch & Key) are raisMOST DEPARTMENT STORES ARE COMPLAINING ing the bar. That said, we’re now playing in ABOUT DECLINING IN-STORE TRAFFIC: HOW ARE YOU —DAN LEPPO, some lower price zones as well: there’s a fast BUILDING IT? SVP, BLOOMINGDALE’S fashion effect on retail that we have to acYou need influencers to drive events. Odell Beckknowledge. Not all guys are willing to invest ham’s clothing line brought in more than 400 in clothes. people at a September midweek event at our NY IN MEN’S FASHION OVERALL, WHAT ARE YOU store, sponsored by GQ. We haven’t been a big MOST EXCITED ABOUT? trunk show store in years. Our event strategy is We’re excited about bringing in new brand to surprise, delight and bring a smile; to make experiences like Combatant Gentleman and people look and hopefully buy while they’re havKnot Standard. We look forward to re-building fun. I wouldn’t say trunk shows are intrinsiing our Hugo Boss business with Tony Luccia cally fun. back on board. We’re enjoying a continued Other ways we’re looking to build traffic ingrowth in pants business: guys are buying up volve a commitment to exclusive product, spepants that fit, which they haven’t had for a cial collaborations, and unique in-store shops while. Black Friday business was very strong like the Dry Bar Salon in our Soho store. in denim, young men’s, outerwear and CAN YOU TELLS US A BIT ABOUT DAN LEPPO, THE sweaters and we project further growth in PERSON NOT THE MERCHANT? these categories, as well as in sneakers and It’s hard to separate the two since I grew up dress shoes. Young men’s now incorporates with a dad who was in retailing. (Editor’s note: everything from cool t-shirts to athleisure to ‘90s retro athletic wear. Of this is an understatement: Dan’s father Harold Leppo was one of the course, it’s hard for an upscale store to compete on Nike, Adidas and most highly respected retail execs ever.) I live in the city with my wife Under Armour, so ours needs to be a fashion edit. and our daughter. My wife likes to say she has two kids: a 10 year old HOW MUCH DOES YOUR MIX REPLICATE MACY’S? and a 45 year old.

Very little overall. We are a contemporary store with a sophisticated point My mentors have been my late dad and Bloomingdale’s execs Tony of view. Our tailored clothing, for example, opens at $600 and our #1 reSpring, Mike Gould and David Fisher. They were all extraordinarily pasource is Canali. Of course, we carry some of the same big brands but it’s tient with me, especially since I could be a pretty cocky kid when I a different edit. Consider even a core sportswear brand like Polo: Macy’s started out. They gave me perspective and helped me understand the has a huge business in pique knits and other great key items, whereas we nuances of leadership. sell more outerwear, sweaters and high-ticket fashion pieces.

Bottom line, I’ve been at Bloomingdale’s for 22 years, about half my CAN YOU SHARE A BIT ABOUT YOUR ONLINE BUSINESS? life. I care passionately about the next 22 years and view it as a priviIt’s continuing to grow to where online volume now surpasses that of lege—and an obligation—to get talented young people excited about our 59th St store. We can’t tell customers how to shop: we can only offer joining this culture. This is more important than ever since there are a compelling mix and deliver it on their terms. If we don’t put customers many more options for them. first in our decision-making, we won’t be here: someone will build a bet- HOW WORRIED ARE YOU ABOUT NORDSTROM COMING TO MANHATTAN? ter mousetrap. But it’s important to note that wherever we have a store, Of course we’re worried but we can either fret about it or up our game our online business gets better. And that’s our future: we’re fortunate in and you better believe we’re upping our game, making our store more that our brand is bigger than our store count (41 doors). We don’t have compelling than ever. After all, we’re the home store: this is our town! I a single store in any market that couldn’t be an A door. truly respect Nordstrom as a competitor but there’s no way we’re going WHAT ELSE ARE YOU DOING TO PUT CUSTOMERS FIRST? to let them win in our backyard. We’ve been in this city since 1872 and We’re investing in a world of technology. Things like on-call fitting rooms, we will defend it to the end.

I’m ever amazed at the extent to which our menswear customers want fashion!”

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2017 MR

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{ STORES }

The New

Contemporaries Customers flock to Brooklyn-based Kinfolk for its unique selection of streetwear and ultracool nightlife.

Kinfolk

Lifestyle merchandising is becoming the best way to attract customers.

By STEPHEN GARNER

F

orget all that you know about what makes a contemporary men’s store. It’s no longer about modern or advanced sportswear collections. Today’s “contemporary” retailers are all about creating a unique experience for their specific customers, often building an entire culture around these stores. (And please don’t call them “contemporary.” Few merchants like this designation; fewer even know what it means.)

One could say this has much to do with today’s volatile retail mar-

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The nightclub space at Kinfolk

ketplace. With major online players like Amazon chipping away at market share, and most designers and brands moving to increase their direct-to-consumer sales, traditional brick-and-mortar retailers are taking a hit.

Take this holiday season for example. Statistics released from the National Retail Federation saw a huge growth in mobile and online sales

{ STORES } during Black Friday weekend, with many analysts predicting that Cyber Monday will soon be the biggest shopping day in the country in the coming years.

Consumers spent $3.45 billion online this Cyber Monday, according to Adobe Digital Insights, easily blowing past initial estimates and continuing a strong Thanksgiving-Black Friday weekend. Adobe has also determined that mobile shopping (both phone and tablet) was responsible for $1.2 billion in U.S. online sales on Black Friday. That’s the first time it has ever crossed the $1 billion mark, representing a huge 33 percent spike over the shopping frenzy from last year.

With the gradual move to more business being done online and on mobile devices, we spoke to some of today’s most respected retailers catering to young people who have found success through creating a lifestyle culture beyond apparel.

WH AT ’S WO R K I NG?

label: 40 percent of our business is our own.”

THE EXP ERIENCE So how do these retailers get customers to come into their stores and spend money?

It could be as simple as providing a level of service unmatched in their communities. “We want all of our customers to feel welcomed and comfortable,” maintains DeLeon. “We offer free cider and cookies, which is especially welcome here in the colder months in Minneapolis, and we take the time to explore the store with the customer so they can find something that meets their needs.”

Poole shares this sentiment. “We offer a service that goes above and beyond traditional customer service where we entrench ourselves in our clients’ closets,” she says. “We can organize their wardrobes for each season and figure out what pieces will elevate their style in a comfortable way. That’s something that many of our guys really appreciate. But we also focus on importing art and culture to the South through the individuals and ideas we bring into our space through events, whether that be musician Justin Townes Earle playing on our front porch or adventurer and environmentalist David de Rothschild leading a discussion on

While most independents we spoke to share some common ground, others are finding success in some surprising categories.

“Most of our brands are performing relatively well for us,” says Erick DeLeon, store manager and buyer for MARTINPATRICK3 in Minneapolis, Minnesota. “But our tailored business continues to grow, due largely to our addition of an in-store tailor who can turn around a garment relatively quickly. This is great for us, especially since tailored as a whole in America isn’t performing at the level it once did.”

For Austin, Texas-based retailer STAG, which has additional locations in Dallas, Houston, and Venice Beach, CA, indigo is still driving a lot of its sales. “Indigo pieces in both knits and wovens have been performing really well for us year-round,” says coAt MartinPatrick3, owner Steve Shuck. “But these customers feel welcomed and last eight months, there has comfortable and can find been a big shift from raw denim styles to a more washed items to fit their needs. look. Our strongest brands across categories have been Faherty (with which the retailer has recently collaborated on a four-piece outerwear collection), RRL, Save Khaki, Saturdays, and cult-favorite Rogue Territory.”

Laura Vinroot Poole, owner of Charlotte, MartinPatrick3 North Carolina retailer TABOR, shares some similar successes in her mix. “Right now, our customers are loving Saturdays, RRL, Engineered Garments, and Thom the way nature influences design.”

Browne. They each speak to the sensibility of American design but from Events are an easy way for retailers to drive traffic into their stores. very different points of view. We find that collections that relate to or ref- “We do a lot of events throughout all of our locations,” adds Shuck. “We erence classic American sportswear do really well in our store.” have monthly events at all of our locations that include appearances “It’s all about traditional streetwear for us, I mean, as traditional as that range from designers to authors and artists. These appearances streetwear can be,” adds Keith Abrams, owner of Brooklyn, New York have helped connect our stores to their respective communities more retailer KINFOLK. “When we first opened, fabulous knitwear and inter- than we’ve expected.” esting textiles did really well. But now, our customers have transitioned Kinfolk, which has established its own cult following through the into demanding streetwear staples like graphic tees and denim. Our multi-use space it occupies in the popular Williamsburg neighborhood of Japanese brands like Wacko Maria, Bedwin & The Heartbreakers and Brooklyn, has taken events to a new level. “Right here on Wythe Avenue Bleu de Paname (all of which retail around $250 for wovens and $600 we have sandwiched our store between a café and a night club, both of for outerwear) always do really well even though the pricepoint and sizwhich we own,” says Abrams. “Selling drinks on Friday and Saturday ing is a little tricky. But ultimately, our number one seller is our private nights allows us more freedom to not just carry the same brands that you

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See us at: NY Shows - Hilton/NY and MRket Javits | Charlotte Show | Chicago Collective | LA Trend | Project - Las Vegas Jim McKenry, Brand Manager, 106 North Thompson-101, Richmond, VA 23221, 202-257-0443, jmckenry@birddoggroup.net $ODQ 3DLQH .QLWZHDU /WG $ +DPLOWRQ :D\ 2DNKDP %XVLQHVV 3DUN 0DQV¿HOG 1RWWV (QJODQG 1* %8 ZZZ DODQSDLQH FR XN

{ STORES } see at similar stores. The success of our nightclub allows us to take risks in our store that a normal boutique our size would not be able to take. I’m a big believer in multi-use. It’s not that we invented this concept, but as retail leases are getting more and more expensive, it’s hard to just be one

how do you get new clients to discover your store? So I decided to build an app called House Account with a friend of mine who runs a tech company to grow our customer base outside of Charlotte. Our clients can shop Tabor’s storefront online here or on their mobile. More apps like this could really help the smaller guys out there.”

For others, it’s bigger picture ideas that will win the day. “When we started working in the 1990s, there was a real connection between the culture and the product,” adds Jey Perie, Kinfolk’s creative director. “I think now we are in a shopping culture, where the culture is the product, which is something that we are, as a company, having a hard time dealing with and relating to. We feel a bit isolated, especially since we are a desAt Tabor in North Carolina, tination store. But my take on the collections that reference or industry now is that it’s only talking to itself. It isn’t looking outside relate to classic American of the ‘norm’ for how to fix the issportswear do really well. sues that retail is currently facing.

With new technologies, different needs and wants from various generations, and increas-

Tabor

thing. Bringing in different concepts brings in different people, which ultimately helps our bottom line.”

WH AT ’S NE ED ED? While there is no clear answer on how to address the current issues of the retail industry, there are some things to consider while taking the steps to improving future business.

“We need new and exciting product,” declares Shuck. “What has Stag keeps customers been happening for the last interested by adding few years is that the new fresh product to the seasonal collections from a store regularly. lot of brands are fairly basic. While most are filled with legitimate, often beautiful pieces, it’s not something that Stag’s Dallas location surprises us, or the customer. We’ve also noticed that it has been a challenge to find authentic-looking washed denim that feels like it was naturally broken in. That’s something that we’d love to see.”

For Poole, the challenge has been her e-commerce strategy and how companies could make it easier for smaller business to succeed while utilizing new tools. “E-commerce doesn’t make me feel warm or excited or loved or taken care of,” she says.

“Five years ago, we built an e-commerce site for my women’s shop, but I killed it after a week. Even with bigger boutiques, it’s very hard to drive traffic to the site unless you’re a department store. We have this handsome store designed by my husband, with a unique selection, but

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ing online competition, the only solution on how to save this whole thing is to look outside of the industry for what’s next. Now’s the time to be creative.”

“From my point of view, I always encourage the team to push themselves and really dig deep into our numbers,” maintains DeLeon. “We have to see what’s selling, how the weather affected our sales, and what our store needs in order to make it better season after season. A year and a half ago we started incorporating mid-season deliveries, which are great for keeping the store fresh. We can’t just rely on the traditional fall/winter and spring/summer seasons anymore. The world is changing and we can’t be left behind.”

{ MILESTONES: 100 YEARS }

A CENTURY OF

EXCELLENCE

Oxxford Clothes shares success secrets, and plans for the next 100 years.

By KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

W

hile it might not be the most accessible custom suit out there, there are few clothing brands with as compelling a story as Oxxford, now 100 years old. Their commitment to quality, luxury and American production sets them apart for legions of consumers, including United States presidents, Hollywood stars, prominent politicians, corporate CEOs and successful entrepreneurs.

(Editor’s note: Stanley Marcus was a huge Oxxford fan.) The common denominator for the past 100 years: men wear Oxxford because they want the very best.

Here, we speak with Oxxford’s president Bob Denton and sales director Chris Brueckner about how they hit this 100-year milestone, and how they plan to approach the next century.

TO WHAT DO YOU ATTRIBUTE THE LONGEVITY OF THIS HIGHLY ESTEEMED LUXURY BRAND? Oxxford Clothes’ mission has always been “to create a garment by which all others will be judged.” We have remained true to that mission. We are arguably the only production garment in the United States that is totally made by hand.

For example, we allow the artisans who hand-pad our lapels 30 minutes to complete each lapel with approximately 1,000 hand stitches. One person can complete only about seven garments per day. There are 179 steps in the production of an Oxxford suit, which takes approximately 28 hours of labor.

The brand’s longevity is a combination of a couple of things. There is always demand for the best. When Oxxford started, their goal was to make a superior suit. Both retailers and their customers realized there was a difference in an Oxxford garment and it became what everyone measured their tailored clothing against.

The reality today is that many guys have switched

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to designer and global brands, a more casual style of dress and (lately) made-to-measure and direct-to-consumer clothing. While these trends have been the demise of many tailored clothing companies, Oxxford has been able to adapt to changes, thanks to supportive ownership and a continuing commitment to quality.

Our success can be attributed to maintaining quality, flexibility and growing our consumer base. While our core customer is older, we’re getting lots of interest from younger guys. They’re interested in the “heritage” of the brand, the process of the make, and the customization possibilities.

Most can’t do the “spend” yet, but these are our future customers.

They want authentic clothing.

SO HOW DO YOU ATTRACT YOUNGER GUYS WHO WANT OXXFORD BUT CAN’ T AFFORD IT? Our social media campaign has dramatically helped raise awareness of Oxxford Clothes with a younger consumer. We have become an aspirational brand for the new generation of gentlemen that appreciates the heritage, artistry and quality of what we produce.

Several years ago, an extension brand, Oxxford 1220, was introduced.

It’s still a high-quality garment,

{ MILESTONES: 100 YEARS } made in our Chicago factory, but we eliminated some of the more meticulous, time-consuming processes. It changed our ready-to-wear business and did some harm where the end consumer thought he was buying the same Oxxford he had in the past.

All the handwork in an Oxxford garment serves a purpose: it is the only way to put permanent shape into a lapel and collar. And shaping the chest like we do, an Oxxford garment has a give that provides movement that a non-handmade garment cannot claim.

What we do best is make hand-made clothing.

It’s who we are, part of our 100 years of success. (We still offer the 1220 product to a few accounts. It’s a great value, but we prefer to focus on our highest quality make.)

HOW’S CURRENT BUSINESS? WHAT’S SELLING BEST? We finished ahead of our forecast for 2016. While we are closely held and do not publicize our numbers, I can say that we remain profitable. We recognized the coming shift several years ago from ready-made clothing to the future demand for more custom and adjusted our production accordingly.

That move set us up to capitalize on the change that has in fact taken place. Ready-made is still an important part of our business: stores must have garments to show and use for fittings. But our production has shifted to mostly custom.

WHAT ELSE DO YOU HAVE PLANNED FOR NEXT YEAR? For 2017, we won’t stray too far from our classic looks, but we’re focusing on more luxury fabrics in cashmere, and wool/silk blends. We’re reintroducing Escorial wool for both suits and jackets. We now offer more color in jackets and we have a strong presentation in blazer fabrics.

Our new models are slightly trimmer: one is our version of a “soft coat” with a lightweight make and details. The other has a slighty stronger shoulder and narrow waist for a more sartorial expression.

pertise is making the finest clothing in the world. We are manufacturers.

We have a tremendous amount of talent with retail experience within our company; we’d rather use that talent to help our retail partners than to compete with them.

Oxxford is one of few makers that can generate big volume and profit from a relatively small number of customers.”

CHRIS BRUECKNER

SO FUTURE GROWTH WILL COME FROM NEW PRODUCT OFFERINGS AND MORE CUSTOM?

Yes, we are growing both with our current retail partners and with new accounts. We have a unique story and product and will continue to focus on what we do best. We also expect to gain market share from competitors who are getting into the retail business and selling directly online, thereby competing with the stores that built up their business for them. I think retailers will be more likely to support brands that are not competing directly with them.

We expect to gain market share from our competitors who are now competing directly with the stores that built their brand.”

TALK A BIT ABOUT YOUR NEW FACTORY LOCATION IN CHICAGO? HOW WILL THIS IMPACT PRODUCTION? After 68 years in the same building, we are excited about the move to our new Chicago location. History and nostalgia aside, we’re planning for the next 100 years and this move is an important step.

It will enable us to be more efficient, upgrade quality control, and provide a better environment for our employees. Everything will be on one floor, from order processing to pattern making and cutting to sewing and pressing. We anticipate production time will improve, which will be an advantage for our customers. We always welcome customers to visit the factory and see what goes into making our clothing. The new factory will make it easier to view the whole process.

WHAT’S YOUR TAKE ON TRUNK SHOWS: DO THEY STILL WORK?

Trunk shows do still work, but it’s not about just advertising “this weekend, Oxxford Trunk Show” or calling/emailing a customer “the Oxxford rep will be here this week.” The successful Oxxford trunk shows are ones where store owners and salespeople go above and beyond to get customers in, using it as an opportunity to prospect.

What these smart merchants do is look at their current customer list to determine which guys should be exposed to the next quality level and then invite them in, if only for the education and exposure.

Stores that use our expertise and allow us to do what we do best have great success. We work with all the top mills in the world and bring their books with us to shows; this provides an opportunity to show customers the broadest array of luxury fabrics that they’ll ever see from a single vendor.

Oxxford is also one of the few garments that can generate big volume and profit from a relatively small number of clients: just 15 customers generally generate more than $100,000 in sales with no markdowns. A single Oxxford customer can spend from $20,000 to $90,000+ at a trunk show; these are not atypical numbers for us.

WHAT’S YOUR MOST EXPENSIVE OXXFORD SALE? The most expensive suit that I (Chris) was directly HOW MANY WHOLESALE ACCOUNTS DO YOU HAVE? AND involved in selling was $35,000 (the customer WHY IS THERE JUST ONE RETAIL STORE? actually purchased two). The fabric was a Super BOB DENTON We have approximately 90 active wholesale doors.

200’s with a significant mixture of vicuna. We also Our flagship in New York is our only company store. Although it’s imhave a client who purchased several 100 percent vicuna topcoats that I portant for our brand image to have a retail presence in the city, our exbelieve retail for about $55,000.

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2017 MR

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{ MILESTONES }

Halls does a strong business in tailored clothing and dress furnishings.

Halls Kansas City

A CENTURY OF STYLE A

s specialty department stores go, Halls is in a league of its own, and has been for the past 100 years. Established in 1916 on fashionable Petticoat Lane by Hallmark founder Joyce C. Hall, the magnificent Crown Center store features men’s and women’s apparel, cosmetics, jewelry, decorative home goods, corporate gifts and more. A visually stunning showplace, (Editor’s note: I actually took photos of the fitting rooms, and even a woman’s restroom, so beautiful was the décor!), Halls prides itself on staying ahead of the curve in merchandising, ambiance, and customer service. Says Halls’ president and CEO Kelly Cole, “Over the decades, we have aimed to intrigue Kansas City with our fashions by providing an unparalleled breadth of style and elegance.”

Furnishings

10%

22%

Clothing

19%

24

25%

MR JANUARY 2017 | MR-Mag.com

But for Cole, who spent 20 earlier years at Neiman Marcus, the real strength of the store is its people. In menswear, its top merchants Todd Epperly and Al Leinen have turned this Kansas City specialty department store into something truly exceptional. Here, we chat with all three menswear execs to discover their success secrets.

How has Halls managed to stay in business for 100 years?

Cole: Halls has always been committed to staying relevant to the times and to our customers. Throughout the years, we’ve been in several locations, added and dropped merchandise categories, and weathered challenges to stay true to Joyce C. Hall’s mission: “To be first with the best in

Made-to-measure Formal

24% Sportswear

By KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

BREAKDOWN OF HALLS TAILORED CLOTHING

BREAKDOWN OF HALLS MENSWEAR Shoes

How a single store in the heartland with no online business has become one of the most exciting retail emporiums in the country.

24%

30%

Suits

3%

Contemporary Pants

15%

28%

Sportcoats

{ MILESTONES } Kansas City.” We pride ourselves on our commitment to personalized, friendly service and our continuing search for unique merchandise.

How much business do you think you’re losing to competition online and how do you capture that?

What do you see as Halls’ key challenges and opportunities?

Like all brick and mortar stores, we’ve lost some business to online. But we are encouraged with high sell-throughs on unique merchandise, locally made items and exclusive products that are not readily available online or broadly distributed elsewhere.

Creating reasons for our core customers to visit us in our new location is both a challenge and an opportunity.

How will you make up the volume of recently going from two stores to one?

What are you most proud of?

Going from two stores to one allows us to run a healthier more profitable business.

How do you rate yourself in terms of customer service?

We have not increased the frequency of our sales but today, our introductory offers must provide a larger discount to create a call to action from the customer.”

I’m most proud of our fantastic team, community involvement, loyal customers, unique product offerings and beautiful new store, which architecturally blends modern design with historic elements from our former flagship.

What keeps you awake at night?

We’ve always offered a personal level of servRunning a healthy business while staying curice and received high marks for it. Our store rent and compelling to customers. now showcases amenities that reflect this, such as HBAR (where we serve a casual lunch Analysts say the conventional menu of sandwiches, soups and salads, local store model (wholesaler to retailer coffee and cocktails), a professional alterto consumer) is no longer working: ations department, text and email communido you agree? cations, mobile POS, valet parking during the No, but I believe it works differently now. Conholidays, free shipping of our beauty prodsumers can often find a product cheaper someucts, large luxurious fitting areas, wedding KELLY COLE where if that’s their goal, which can make it registry offerings and compelling special events. We mentor our newest Style Experts on how to build a clien- difficult to create loyalty with new customers. We need to go to them, not wait for them to come to us. Our new location is in the heart of the resurtele and communicate with them to meet their shopping needs.

Vintage photos of Halls throughout the years.

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2017 MR

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{ MILESTONES } gence in Kansas City’s urban core where hundreds of high rise residences have just been built and many more are under construction for the next few years. Many of these residents are younger than our core customer, so we plan to deliver the Halls experience and high-touch service to them through partnerships with the buildings where they live. Also we will launch Halls Style Club in 2017, through which we will reach out to past customers and offer them an exclusive service that won’t depend on them coming to us, but rather will deliver Halls to their door.

How will you compete in this era of off-price stores and vendors selling direct to consumers?

Trying to compete with off-price stores is a slippery slope, especially if your core customer is not looking for that from you. We compete with our vendors who sell online by always matching their prices. Vendors who are now selling direct are seeing that customers are buying at time of need rather than early in the season. Yet, they’re taking markdowns at prime shopping times rather than offering fresh merchandise when customers really want it: when the weather changes, at holiday time. As an industry, we should be working together to change this cycle.

What is your philosophy of sales/promotions?

Promotions are a positive boost to business when they offer a good deal when the customer wants to buy and margins are not compromised. We offer in-season promotions, which work well. We have not increased the frequency of our sales but today, our introductory offers must provide a larger discount to create a call to action from the customer.

How do you maintain margins in today’s highly promotional era?

Vendors can learn from the men’s market which offers high quality merchandise that we can promote at a good value while still maintaining our margins. We include these during all store promotions.

arts and culture scene, and to enjoy various holidays throughout the year.

And you can’t forget the pro football and baseball teams and their fans who travel to watch them. Go Chiefs! Go Royals!

Any chance of opening an outlet store?

I never say “never.”

How are you planning to capture a younger customer?

You’ve got great product, now how do you get them in?

Todd Epperly: Halls has begun to focus more heavily on social media this year to reach a younger demographic. We are seeing success on Facebook and Instagram, and we plan to dedicate a significant portion of our 2017 advertising budget to social media. However, we are not looking for just “likes” on Facebook. Our goal is to bring traffic into the store, so we continue to enhance our instore environment. I believe our new Bridge space is one of the best-designed contemporary departments in the country. We have separate music and video monitors, along with a more social setting to appeal to a younger customer.

We regularly test new brands, giving us much credibility in the marketplace.

I believe a customer can come to Halls and know he/she will see something that can’t be found anywhere else in the Kansas City area.

Supporting local brands is key to drawing in the younger Kansas City customer, and there are key brands we have exclusive in our area.

Many of these brands have developed exclusive t-shirts for Halls. For example, we’ve sold 6,100 t-shirts from one local brand.

We are narrowing our vendor matrix in almost every area of men’s: Too many brands can confuse.”

How many brands do you carry in menswear? Do you believe in narrow and deep assortments or broad and shallow?

We are narrowing our vendor matrix in almost every area of men’s. Too many brands in the TODD EPPERLY store can confuse customers. Also, we don’t need brands that are overly distributed in our market, or brands that run sales on their e-commerce site almost every What are the advantages of not being a public other week. I believe this is destroying their brand credibility along with company? our margins. But while we’re narrowing our vendor matrix, we are alWe are more nimble and able to make quicker decisions, as a committee ways looking for new brands to be at the forefront of fashion and meet is not needed. Along with making financial goals, there is an expectation the evolving needs of our customers. of community support and involvement, which proves to be very reWhat are your best-selling sportswear items/brands warding.

this season?

Who is your direct competition in Kansas City?

We have our share of the national big box suburban stores and smaller independent stores, but our competition is mostly retailers in larger cities to which so many people travel for business or pleasure: Chicago, Los Angeles, Dallas, New York. After all, buying something when you travel is part of the adventure. This works in our favor as well, since we are a large city in the Midwest. Many business people travel here, as well as tourists who come for shopping weekends, to participate in the active

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We’re doing well with Eleventy, Hugo Boss, Good Man Brand, Todd Snyder, Moncler, AG Denim, Patagonia, Theory and Peter Millar. Polo Ralph Lauren is also performing well for us this season. Key pricepoints in sportswear are under $300 for wovens and sweaters, under $200 for denim, under $600 for outerwear. Price points of lines like Theory, Hugo Boss, Eleventy, Good Man Brand, Todd Snyder are what we call “better” pricepoints. These continue to be more important to our mix. Best-selling brands for accessories/belts include Gucci, Tumi and Ferragamo.

{ MILESTONES } What do you need from the market that you’re not getting?

Exclusivity or at least more controlled distribution. And cohesive collections: lines that feature both clothing and sportswear need the components to more closely coordinate.

Also, high-end designer lines can no longer rely on their name alone. They need to stay on top of market trends with consistently strong collections. Sameness, season after season, is not working for many high-end lines: there are too many more affordable brands knocking them off, and doing a good job of it. Lower end lines are using better fabrics and the customer is noticing. What’s also needed: higher inital markups. Keystone is no longer enough.

How has tailored clothing business changed in recent seasons?

Al Leinen: In the past two years, in the new store, we have seen a shift in sales from suits to sport coats, with sportcoats gaining momentum and almost catching suit sales this year. Our major focus on the made-to-measure business in the new store has gained the most momentum in the mix, generating almost a quarter of our tailored business. The pant business is steady with most of the growth in five-pocket wool pants, which is under the sportswear division. Formal is steady during the holidays and does good business for weddings and special events. We’re doing more suits and tuxedos for weddings with our opening pricepoint at $300. With large wedding parties, we can sell 10 to 15 units at a time, which turns into a nice sale.

Who is your competition in tailored clothing and how are you competing?

What’s been disappointing?

The dressy blue blazer has been a disappointment the past couple of years, but we’re seeing some gains with models and fabrics that give guys a reason to buy a new blazer. With the casual dress code in many workplaces, the blazer, when made like a soft jacket with many pockets in great travel fabrics, has piqued new customer interest.

Talk a bit more about your made-to-measure business.

It’s the fastest growing part of the business and will only improve with technology and training. It’s become almost a quarter of our tailored clothing volume and will go higher if we continue to give the customers the great fit they’re requesting. By discovering customers’ needs, we’re now able to get them a made-to-measure suit that arrives within a couple of weeks. And once they’re happy with the custom details and perfect fit, they keep coming back.

What do you need from the market that you’re not getting?

Newness. It’s tough to change the look of a suit, sportcoat or pants, but I think the industry could find and develop new and better fabrics and take chances by bringing new ideas to the table.

How price conscious is your consumer?

How much business is good vs better vs best?

I put myself on the selling floor, make house calls and visit customers’ workplaces to accommodate their schedules.”

The consumer always wants to feel like he’s getting value, whether it’s at top of the line or an opening pricepoint. We’re still doing about 75 percent of our clothing sales at the top, with Zegna as our anchor brand. Of course, we sell the most units with our opening price tailored clothing, the majority of which is between $495 and $795. Once you get above $1,000 for the average shopper, the air gets thinner and it has to be something very special.

Our competition is anyone who is doing tailored clothing business in a store, over the internet or AL LEINEN To what extent are young guys someone going to the place of work to sell tailored buying suits? clothing. I feel we can compete by going to market and finding the best brands with the best models and looks for the The majority of the opening pricepoint tailored clothing is sold to best value in our store. A professional sales staff is a key factor in our younger customers. These young guys want the jacket to be fitted and success and we consider our staff experts in fitting clothing. We want the pant to be slim and narrow at the bottom. When a young customer our customers to look and feel their best and be proud to say it came is shopping for a tailored suit, we introduce him to the best quality from our store. I also put myself on the selling floor anytime it’s possible, suit in his size. Then we work with the customer to find the right fit, make house calls and visit the customer’s workplace to accommodate his pricepoint and style, which for younger men tends to be in lines such schedule. as Todd Snyder, Calvin Klein, Hugo Boss, John Varvatos and Paul Betenly.

What’s the most exciting thing happening in the men’s clothing business these days?

The soft jacket has been a big success. With the workforce being more casual these days, the dressy sportcoat has been put at the back of the closet. The less constructed jacket fills a void with the more casual dress code and still can be dressed up with dress pants to give a polished look.

This category is helping sportcoats drive the business. Zegna, Canali, L.B.M. 1911, Todd Snyder and Ibiza are a few of the brands selling well.

How do you get guys to buy more tailored clothing more often?

Halls provides personalized service to each and every customer. By offering him this tailored experience, he is more likely to feel well put together from top to bottom. This positive experience often results in compliments, confidence, an appreciation for tailored clothing and a desire to return to Halls for future purchases.

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2017 MR

27

PAOLO ALBIZZATI

ARCURI TIES

FURNISHINGS DOLCEPUNTA

T

he details truly make the man and no detail is left un-turned when it comes to Italian furnishings, from the beautiful silks created in Como that become ties and pocket squares to hand linked socks, cashmere scarves and gloves and of course beautiful golden cuff links.

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talian collections cover you for fall, head-to-toe, literally. From shoes and socks to outerwear and hats and gloves, collection dressing allows you to look completely pulled together without having to do the work.

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{ RETAILING }

STORE SURVIVAL An A to V guide for top-end retailers on how to keep their customers coming back.

By BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: The exterior of Forty Five Ten on Main store in Dallas; the men’s department at Halls Kansas City.

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MR JANUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

s luxury customers keep cutting back their spending, one of the biggest conundrums facing merchants these days is why guys aren’t shelling out more dollars on new suits, coats and accessories. Is it the product or is it something else? The answers, according to experts, may lie within the stores themselves. To alleviate this issue, MR has put together 10 tips that will hopefully help turn around business for the better.

AMENITIES: While some men still may only want to make a shopping trip a quick in-and-out expedition, others will be pleased if the store they visit can become more of an all-purpose destination. Having nice places to eat inside the store is one option, as retailers from Bloomingdale’s to Halls to Saks Fifth Avenue have found to be true. But having a small privatelystocked bar area with top-shelf liquors featuring a cask with select customers’ name on it featuring their favorite alcoholic libation can work just as well, says designer-retailer Vivek Nagrani (who treats his customers to all sorts of special surprises in his “clubhouse for grown-ups” in NoLiTa.) Or how about adding such amenities as a grooming salon, a special “club room” for custom fittings or even just some really comfortable chairs? All of these solutions can entice men to stay (and shop) longer.

CURATION: As the saying goes, too much of a good thing can be too much of a good thing. Since the luxury shopper is always seeking the best of the best, choosing just a few of the most worthwhile pieces from each brand’s line, or limiting your inventory to fewer, more carefully chosen collections, can be a more effective strategy than overwhelming the customer. Still, one shouldn’t understate the importance of carrying the right assortment of brands, especially if they’ve been tailored to a store’s particular market. What sells in California doesn’t always sell in Connecticut, and vice versa.

EXPERIENCES: To paraphrase a lyric from the Broadway musical Sweet Charity: “Hey, big spender, do you want to have fun, fun, fun?” Yes, fun “experiences” are a must for luxury stores, both huge and small . That can mean

NATHAN SCHROEDER

10 TIPS forLUXURY A

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{ RETAILING } having trunk shows of popular or unusual product lines (preferably with great food and drink), in-store appearances by celebrities and athletes or alcohol tastings of great scotches or bourbons. The trick is to get men into your store, especially if they have never visited it before. Hopefully, once they’ve seen what you have to sell them, they’ll be more prepared to come back and open up their wallets.

GIFTS GALORE: “Men are curious by nature about objects and artisanship,” says Brian Bolke, owner and cofounder of Texas-based Forty Five Ten, explaining why one floor of his new Dallas shop splits its space between high-end men’s apparel and home goods. Indeed, many luxury stores could benefit by adding a carefully chosen array of non-apparel items to their inventory: think everything from gold-plated golf tees, silver business card holders, beautiful books, clocks, leather goods, and high-tech gadgets.

The various gift trade shows around the country, especially in New York, are a great place to find these items, but we can also recommend top-end publishers such as Assouline, Glitterati and Taschen for books, decorative art companies such as L’Objet for letter openers, picture frames or marble boxes, or Moore & Giles for gorgeous leather goods.

JOY: Here’s the cold, hard truth: few men out there actually “need” to add anything to their current wardrobe. But that doesn’t mean they won’t purchase a new item, especially one that makes them feel good about themselves. “I always ask myself when I choose a high-end item for my customers, will it bring them joy every time they wear it?” says Bolke. “If the answer is no, then why stock it?”

QUALITY: “People have always thought luxury means buying something expensive, but what is means above all is offering quality,” Marc Metrick, president of Saks Fifth Avenue, told MR last year. That translates to apparel made from first-class fabrics such as cashmere or lambskin, as well as items featuring details such as handstitching or beautiful buttons THIS PAGE: Interior shots from the Forty Five Ten on Main store.

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MR JANUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

that will make them stand out from more run-of-the-mill offerings.

SERVICE: High-end stores are re-discovering just how important it is to keep their customers satisfied if they want repeat business. And very often, that starts with the people on the sales floor. “We take sales training very seriously,” Tom Ott, Saks Fifth Avenue’s SVP and GMM, Men’s told MR. “For holiday 2016, Saks created a new service which offered dedicated gift concierges to assist customers with all of their giftgiving needs, including gift-wrapping, shipping, delivery, and gift selection. Make the male customer feel special, and he’s more likely to consider your store his special go-to place.

SPEED: The other “S” word of current-day retailing has two important components for luxury retailers. First, in a retailing world now dominated by Amazon.com, every store owner is looking for new ways to get its products (especially those bought via e-commerce) to their customers as quickly and cheaply as possible. Second, unless your store is the only game in town, smart retailers know that in order to remain competitive, they must have the newest, greatest item available for their customer before their competitors. Fast and first wins the race these days.

TIMELINESS: The days when the highend customer came into the store in July and bought everything he needed for the next six months are as dead as the dinosaur. New deliveries on a monthly or bi-monthly basis are increasingly commonplace. Yes, a man may still decide to buy a winter coat in September to be safe, but he may also decide to wait until December or January, when the weather finally turns cold enough to wear it.

In fact, some stores will find it in their best interest to begin to follow the lead of major designers such as Tom Ford and Burberry and use their “see now, buy now” model. That way, customers won’t even see seasonal clothes in the store in advance of the time they need to purchase it.

VALUE: Yes, some consumers cannot wait to purchase the most ontrend item, but most men these days are primarily BRIAN BOLKE, PRESIDENT AND interested in so-called inCO-FOUNDER, FORTY FIVE TEN vestment dressing. “I believe any smart consumer is concerned about getting the right value, no matter what their economic position,” says Bolke. “So I tend to stock things that feel more collectible, like a great cashmere sweater they can wear year after year.

Even if it’s a great sportcoat that costs $4,000, my customers want to be sure they’re getting their money’s worth.”

I always ask myself when I choose a high-end item for my customers, will it bring them joy every time they wear it?”

TACCALITI VINCENZO DE LAUZIERS

CALIBAN

SHIRTS & PANTS

MAROL

he tailoring of Italian brands is so impeccable, you could wear a pair of Italian pants inside out and not be able to tell. Each Italian shirt is a wearable work of art, not only beautiful, but beautifully made.

T CAMOUFLAGE AR and J

TELERIA ZED VALENTINI

ALESSANDRO GHERARDI GALLIA

TINTORIA MATTEI

Visit us at Italy@MRKETNY | January 23-25, 2017 | Javits Center, NY EMAIL - NEWYORK@ICE.IT

WWW.ICE.GOV.IT

{ FURNISHINGS }

INNOVATION AT LAST David Sirkin, recently named president of PVH’s dress furnishings group, discusses the future of shirts and ties.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

T

alk about market dominance: almost half of all the shirts and ties sold in American department, mid-tier and mass market stores today are manufactured by PVH, the market leader in dress furnishings, underwear, and heritage brands, not to mention owners of the Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger brands. After a tough year at retail, we spoke to David Sirkin, recently named president of the dress furnishings group at PVH, to talk about the company’s reorganization, and about his take on the future of dress furnishings.

COULD YOU COMMENT ON THE NEW STRUCTURE FOR FURNISHINGS AT PVH? WHAT SHARE OF THE FURNISHINGS MARKET DOES PVH NOW CONTROL? We’ve combined the shirt and tie groups to create more synergies across the business and leverage the strengths of the organization. There’s now a singular vision that drives the creative process and carries through the supply chain to customer service to logistics and of course to the customer experience at retail.

As for PVH’s position in these two categories, we maintain significant market share in North America. We have more than 40 percent and ABOVE: Comfort, fit and easy care continue to drive dress shirt sales across a variety of brands.

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50 percent of the U.S. market in dress shirts and neckwear respectively in department and chain stores.

HOW’S THE FURNISHINGS BUSINESS AT RETAIL? WHAT’S DRIVING SALES IN SHIRTS AND TIES THESE DAYS? The neckwear business has been tough all year: it’s more about the trend for men to dress more casually in the workplace. The longstanding mandate for men to sport a tie to the office is under pressure. We don’t see this trend changing in the near future, so we continue to focus on key initiatives to drive our business, including exploring innovative tie fabrics, and alternative ways for guys to express themselves sartorially.

The dress shirt business has been much more stable and healthy for us this year, driven in large part by several strong trends: fit, technology, comfort, prints. There’s tremendous innovation at so many levels, which we believe should bode well for our business into 2017.

For example, our magnetic closure shirts that we launched this fall are now in 80+ doors and are performing well against our expectations. Last fall, we launched our stretch collar shirts for Van Heusen and they now represent about 15 percent of the business; we have leveraged this technology across several other brands including Calvin

ALFREDO RIFUGIO NAPOLI

SINCLAIR

OUTERWEAR he beauty of Italian outerwear is that it might not make you look forward to winter, but you definitely won't dread it as much if you are wrapped in the warmth of Italy. From the luxury of leather and shearling to cashmere and wool, Italian outerwear has you covered.

T

DI BELLO BY NIPAL

GIMO'S GALLOTTI

MARCO DE LUCA BOSSO

Visit us at Italy@MRKETNY | January 23-25, 2017 | Javits Center, NY EMAIL - NEWYORK@ICE.IT

WWW.ICE.GOV.IT

{ FURNISHINGS } Klein, Kenneth Cole, Tommy Hilfiger, Eagle, Chaps and Geoffrey Beene. We are very pleased with the performance we have experienced in 2016, and we’re delighted that the consumer has voted for the comfort our stretch collar shirts are providing. Most importantly, we’re excited that we were able to continue to bring genuine innovation to dress shirts, since the last real innovation seen in this business was non-iron, many years ago.

HOW IMPORTANT IS WRINKLE-FREE COTTON IN TODAY ’S DRESS SHIRT CATEGORY? For us, it’s approximately 35 percent of the business. Of course we also do a lot of blends for midtier stores so virtually everything we do is wrinkle-free or easy care. I would say approximately 98 percent of our total business involves a non-iron component.

DOES THAT MEAN YOU’RE DOING LESS IN LUXURY? No, we continue to operate in the luxury space but we’re more focused on the luxury labels we are now licensing. We also continue to do some private label in this area.

DEPARTMENT STORES IN GENERAL SEEM TO BE

to be powerful and self-explanatory.

IN DRESS SHIRTS, WHAT’S THE RATIO OF REGULAR FIT TO SLIM FIT? It varies by region, but I’d say it averages 55 percent regular fit to 45 percent slim fit. (Slim fit is stronger on the west coast.) I believe the ratio should stay about the same just based on the wide variety of body types across the country.

Everyone needs to feel comfortable in their clothes.

HOW HAS OTD PRICING IN DRESS SHIRTS CHANGED IN RECENT YEARS? Today, for all types of stores, overall ticket prices on dress shirts are somewhat higher (ranging from $40-$80) but promotions have become —DAVID SIRKIN, PVH, more intense. In department stores, I’d say that PRESIDENT, THE DRESS the average out-the-door price is in the mid-toFURNISHINGS GROUP high $30’s on our brands. The retailers’ private label portion of the business tends to be lower than you would expect.

THERE ARE MANY PEOPLE WHO THINK THAT THE ERA OF DEPARTMENT STORE DOMINANCE IS OVER: WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS? There is a place for department stores but they STRUGGLING THESE DAYS AS THEY HAVE NEITHER will need to continue to evolve and reinvent THE PRICE ADVANTAGE OF OFF-PRICE STORES NOR themselves.

THE STATUS ADVANTAGE OF LUXURY STORES. WHAT HOW DO YOU PLAN TO GROW THE OVERALL DO THEY NEED TO DO TO JUMPSTART SALES? FURNISHINGS BUSINESS AT PVH? Customer experience is really key. It’s largely We will continue to focus on low single digit type about the right presentation and having well growth in this business, with an emphasis on trained sales associates to communicate the brand driving innovation and differentiation for the DNA as well as highlighting what style/fit makes consumer. By operating a leveraged portfolio, the most sense for a person’s body type. Commuwe’re able to ensure that we’re catering to a wide nicating the various styles/fits is really the single range of consumers, from those shopping at most important factor to help consumers ultimately purchase a dress shirt. mass market to those shopping at luxury. We have the supply chain to It’s easier if stores have knowledgeable sales associates on the selling floor support all tiers of distribution. For us, it’s about growing market share at all times, but since that doesn’t always happen, the POS material needs effectively and productively.

The longstanding mandate for men to sport a tie to the office is under pressure, and we don’t see this trend changing in the near future.”

Last fall, we launched our stretch collar shirts for Van Heusen and they now represent about 15 percent of the business; we’ve leveraged this technology across other brands including Calvin Klein, Kenneth Cole, Tommy Hilfiger, Eagle, Chaps and Geoffrey Beene.”

—DAVID SIRKIN, PVH, PRESIDENT, THE DRESS FURNISHINGS GROUP

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GIANNI GALLUCCI ALTELIER

BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO

CROCLUX

SHOES & LEATHERGOODS taly is as famous for it's beautiful shoes as it is for it's delicious food, not only beautiful, but artisinal in their craftsmanship. The leather does not stop with the shoes, Italian belts, gloves and bags are also exemplary for the handwork that goes into their construction and dyeing.

I

ZENOBI

ZANNI

DAL DOSSO PAOLO VITALE

Visit us at Italy@MRKETNY | January 23-25, 2017 | Javits Center, NY EMAIL - NEWYORK@ICE.IT

WWW.ICE.GOV.IT

{ FASHION }

THE RETURN OF

The Turtleneck

The layering piece has been reinvented as a truly cool complement for suits and sportcoats.

T

he turtleneck is the double-breasted suit of knitwear. Let me explain. When I was fashion director of Saks Fifth Avenue, we would go to Europe for the menswear collections and on buying trips, we would be seduced by gorgeous doublebreasted suits in the showrooms, on the runways, even on the streets. But once back in the U.S. and reviewing orders with the GMM and the DMMs, I would be told that they look great, but no one buys them because you can’t wear the jacket separately or unbuttoned.

The same thing would happen with big chunky turtlenecks: they looked amazing on the runway and then sat folded on the store shelves. Why? They were great to wear outside, but once you were indoors they become way too hot and uncomfortable.

Well, finally we have the redemption of the turtleneck.

Not since the 1970s, when the garment was seen on movie stars like Steve McQueen and Michael Caine, are so many fine gauge turtlenecks being worn under suits.

I think there are some solid reasons for it. The most important one is the gauge: finer knits in merino, cashmere and blends are much more comfortable to wear than before, less bulky under a jacket and sportcoat, and don’t make you overheat.

I spoke to James Hinton, the owner of Alan Paine (who provided the fine gauge knitwear I used to style

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MR JANUARY 2017 | MR-Mag.com

this month’s fashion story), and he said: “Yes, we have seen a resurgence in demand for turtlenecks and also in three-button long-sleeved polo shirts over the last two seasons. I think this is due to the more layered fashion that is in vogue at the moment as opposed to formal shirts and ties.”

Plus, turtlenecks are easy. Anytime you can lower the number of elements in a man’s wardrobe, he is happy. (A shirt and tie are two pieces of apparel, while a turtleneck is one). Another bonus is that most shirts require a minimum of an iron run over them to be presentable, while turtlenecks are much more forgiving.

Also turtlenecks coordinate easily with patterns or solids. A black, navy or charcoal turtleneck can be worn under most any sportcoat! You don’t have to worry about pulling in colors of the jacket with the shirt and tie; it all works.

In our more casual work environments, turtlenecks allow you to wear a sportcoat and look both comfortable and polished. Knitwear is more relaxed and comfortable than a woven shirt and men respond to that.

Finally, turtlenecks just look so damn cool. They are modern, knitted armor that make a man ready to combat the battles of everyday life. And every man looks ruggedly handsome in a turtleneck. Isn’t that enough?

PHOTO COURTESY OF ALAN PAINE

BY MICHAEL MACKO

Fight

CL UB

BY Michael Macko. PHOTOGRAPHY BY Menelik Puryear

FALL 2017

THIS PAGE: SUIT: Samuelsohn; SHIRT: Eton; TIE: Michael Bastian Gray Label OPPOSITE PAGE: TOP LEFT: SUIT: Ring Jacket; SHIRT: Eton; TIE & POCKET SQUARE: Michael Kaye Cravate; WATCH: Uniform Wares; BELT: Alden; CENTER MIDDLE: BAG: Frank Clegg BOTTOM RIGHT: SUIT: Samuelsohn; SHIRT: Gitman; PORTFOLIO: Frank Clegg; CUFFLINKS: Megan Spivey; WATCH: Uniform Wares

SUIT: Ralph Beck; SHIRT: Eton; TIE: Gitman; PORTFOLIO: Frank Clegg; SHOES: Johnston & Murphy; SOCKS: Bresciani; WATCH: Uniform Wares

SUIT: Ralph Beck; TURTLENECK: Alan Paine; POCKET SQUARE: Michael Kaye Cravate; WATCH: Uniform Wares

ON LEFT SUIT: Ring Jacket; SHIRT: Eton; TIE & POCKET SQUARE: Michael Kaye Cravate; BELT: Alden; SOCKS: L.B.M. 1911; SHOES: Johnston & Murphy; ON RIGHT SUIT: Samuelsohn; TURTLENECK: Alan Paine; POCKET SQUARE: Michael Kaye Cravate; BELT: Alden; SOCKS: Bresciani; SHOES: Johnston & Murphy

SUIT: Samuelsohn; SHIRT AND POCKET SQUARE: Gitman; TIE: Drake’s; SHOES: Johnston & Murphy; SOCKS: Bresciani; WATCH: Uniform Wares

SUIT: Samuelsohn; SHIRT: Eton; TIE: Michael Kaye Cravate; POCKET SQUARE & SCARF: Drake’s; SOCKS: Bresciani; SHOES: Johnston & Murphy

PRODUCED AND STYLED BY MICHAEL MACKO; PHOTOGRAPHED BY MENELIK PURYEAR; MODELS: ELI HALL/DNA, CHRIS MOORE/WILHELMINA; GROOMING: LUIS PAYNE, HAIRROIN SALON NY; CASTING: ROGER INNISS, BOOM PRODUCTIONS INC.; TAILORING: ALBERT AT LARS NORD; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: JEFF ROSE; VIDEOGRAPHY: CHANTZ MARCUS; LOCATION: CHURCH STREET BOXING GYM

SUIT: Southwick; TURTLENECK: Alan Paine; POCKET SQUARE: Gitman

Discover British Brands at MRket/Project Discover the craftsmanship and creativity of British menswear at our exclusive Buyers’ Lounge on WKH 05NHW VKRZ ÀRRU IURP WR -DQXDU\ 7DNH D EUHDN and enjoy a traditional $IWHUQRRQ 7HD ZLWK XV DQG VHH the latest Great British PHQVZHDU IURP RYHU %ULWLVK YHQGRUV DW 05NHW 3URMHFW 7KH ORXQJH ZLOO EH RSHQ IRU WKH GXUDWLRQ RI WKH VKRZ $IWHUQRRQ WHD ZLOO EH VHUYHG

Monday, 23 Jan & Tuesday, 24 Jan from 2 - 4PM For more information, SOHDVH FDOO

PROJECT + MRKET | UBMFASHION.COM

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UBMFASHION.COM | PROJECT + MRKET

MENSWEAR MOSAIC Welcome to 2017: with every new year comes a clean slate and time to start fresh. Nowhere is this more evident than here at PROJECT and MRket, now combined to create the leading men’s fashion trade event in New York. You’ll see industry friends, both old and new, activations for you to experience and most importantly exciting brands for you to buy.

ABOUT PROJECT AND MRKET: New York Men’s has united two established menswear shows, PROJECT and MRket, to create the leading men’s fashion trade event in New York featuring influential apparel, footwear, and accessories brands from emerging to established, and contemporary to classic.

January 23-25, 2017 | Monday, Tuesday & Wednesday | Jacob Javits Center, NYC

PROJECT + MRKET | UBMFASHION.COM

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A COLLECTION OF COMMUNITIES PROJECT and MRket have gathered together the best of many worlds to maximize your show experience. Whether it’s the newest in performance/activewear at MOVE or your favorite classic heritage and Modern Prep brands, we have it all.

PROJECT and MRket is the only show in North America to offer both a Made in Italy section sponsored by the Italian Trade Commission and Brits in New York which highlights the best of British menswear. THE TENTS are a juried platform for menswear designers and Vanguards Gallery highlights the newest emerging brands. PROJECT Sole wraps it up with the best in men’s footwear.

MRKET BRANDS Alan Paine Knitwear Alden Alessandro Gherardi Alessandrosimoni Alex Cannon Alexander Julian Alfred Sargent Alfredo Rifugio Napoli Allsize Alpetora/G. Manzoni Amanda Christensen Amicale Cashmere Andrew Fezza Andrew Marc Arcuri Ties Aristo Armor Lux Aston Attex SRL Austen Heller 54

Austin Reed Baade II, Ltd. Baldessarini Banvard & James Barbour Barnaby Baroni Bartorelli Belford Men Belts + di Piazza Stefano Ben Pipano Benson Bentley Cravats Corp Bertigo Bills Khakis The Bird Dog Group Blue Blujacket Brackish Bresciani 1970 Breuer S.A. The British Apparel Collection

UBMFASHION.COM | PROJECT + MRKET

Brown Allan Bruno Piatelli Bruno Piattelli Neckwear Calabrese 1924 Caliban Calvin Klein Camouflage AR and J. Camp Hero Cardinal Of Canada Carlos Santos Cashmere Clouds Castaway-Nantucket Island Chelsey Imports Ltd. Chiari Christopher Lena Chrysalis City Sport Caps Codis Maya Ltd Collared Greens Cooper Jones Supply Corgi Corrente

LLOYD SHOES

CORGI

Cortigiani Croclux Cutter & Buck Dal Dosso Davek Umbrellas Dents Gloves Di Bello by Nipal Di Ruggiero Dion DKNY Dobb’s Hats & Caps Dolcepunta Drake’s Dubarry of Ireland Duncan Walton The Dunlap Weavers Edoardo Borrelli Edward Armah Edward Green Empire Clothing En-Soi English Utopia Enro Enzo Ettinger Ltd Euro Fashions Eyebobs LLC Eyelet Milano F.H. Wadsworth Faber-Castell Fertini Filippo De Laurentiis Flannel Bay Fly3 Fox Umbrellas

G4 Sport Gallia Gallotti Garment Group Inc. Geoff Nicholson Gianni Gallucci Atelier Gianni Marcelo Gimo’s Gionfriddo Made in Italy Gitman Bros GJ Cahn Scarfs Global Mint Graf von Faber-Castell Grays London Gruppo Bravo Halsey Hari Mari Harley of Scotland Hickey Freeman Accessories Hidesociety HiSO Hogarth Holebrook Sweden Hommard Hook + Albert Ibiza Ibiza Azure iDesign Ike Behar Impulso Individualized Shirts Ingram International Laundry Italo Ferretti Italuomo Italwear/A. Bossi J.S. Blank & Co., Inc. Jack Victor James Campbell Jan Leslie/Linkup Jared Lang

Jimmy Sales Neckwear JM Dickens John Varvatos Accessories Johnstons of Elgin Joseph Cheaney & Sons Kinross Cashmere Kuehnert Inc. Lauren by Ralph Lauren LCR Menswear Ledbury Lee Allison Left Coast Tee Lenor Romano LLC Leo Chevalierr Lloyd Shoes Loake Bros Ltd. Lochcarron Loft 604/Cesarani London Fog Lone Pine Leathers Lorenzoni Luchiano Visconti Luchiano Visconti Black Luciano Bardelli Luciano Moresco Maceoo Majestic International Maker and Company Mantoni Marcello Sport Marchesi Di Como Marco Deluca Bosso Marco Valentino Margo Petitti Mario Latorre Bags Marol Martin Dingman Mayser Meyer-MMX Mezlan Michael Kaye Cravate PROJECT + MRKET | UBMFASHION.COM

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SAILORS & BRIDES

Michael Kors Michael Zechbauer Headwear Missani Le Collezioni Misternic Cashmere Mizzen + Main MM55 Mo & Ro Mon Art Monte & Coe Montechiaro MPG Sport MyPakage Nikky New York The Normal Brand North 56°4 Norwegian Wool Out of Order Ovadia+ Oxford Oxford Shirt Company Pacific Silk Pantherella Paolo Albizzati Paolo Vitale Papá Originals Patrick Assaraf Paul Betenly Clothing Peerless Clothing USA, Inc. Penrose London Per Pedes Socks Perre Peter Barton Peter-Blair Accessories Private Stock Neckwear Prossimo Jack Victor Puccio Di Piero Punto Socks Q by Flynt 56

NORTH 56 °4

R_men Raffi Redingo Remy Leather Renco Milano Big and Tall Replika Jeans Cph Reporter Res Ipsa Rhone Richard James Riviera Red Robert Barakett Robert Graham Hosiery & Scarves Robert Graham Loungewear Robert Keyte Silks Rowdy Gentleman S. Cohen Inc. Sailors & Brides Sanyo New York Saxx Underwear Schneiders Salzburg Scott + Charters Scott Barber Scott Nichol Sean John Seaward & Stearn London Shaquille O’Neal Silvio Fiorello Simon Carter Simpson London Sinclair Smathers and Branson Southern Proper Southwick Clothes St. Croix Collections and Heritage by St. Croix Stetson Steven Land

UBMFASHION.COM | PROJECT + MRKET

Stewart Richard Grays Strongbody Apparel Sweat Tailor Taccaliti Shirts Tag USA Tailor Vintage Tallia Orange Tallia Orange Neckwear Tardia TASC Performance Tateossian Ltd. Teleria Zed Thaddeus Thompson Tiglio Inc. Tiglio Luxe Tintoria Mattei Tori Richard Ltd. Torras Of Spain Toscano Trands USA Trumbull Rhodes Tumi Outerwear Tyler & Tyler Umberto Vallati Valentini Vannucci Victorinox Villa Delmitia Vincenzo De Lauziers Vineyard Vines Visconti Vitaliano Viyella Wigens William Lockie Yongzheng Tailor Zabeo Cashmere Zanetti Zanni Zenobi

PROJECT BRANDS 34 Heritage 7 Diamonds 7 for all Mankind A Fish Named Fred Agave Anderson’s Astronomy Clothing Autumn Cashmere Bellroy Blissker

DANIEL WELLINGTON

Brax Feel Good Bruun & Stengade Buffalo David Bitton Bugatti Calen Blosso Christopher Fischer CLOSED COAL Coastal Color Siete Daniel Hechter Sportswear Daniel Wellington Derek Rose DL1961 Premium Denim Faherty Fidelity Denim French Connection Good Man Brand Grayers Haspel HESTRA Hudson Jeans Hush Puppies Illei Indian Motorcyle 1901 J & M Est. 1850 JACHS NY JACK & JONES James Campbell Collection Jerry Kaye Joe’s Jeans John Smedley Johnston & Murphy Kenneth Cole Black Label Kenneth Cole New York KJUS North America, Inc. Knowledge Cotton Apparel

Kokun Lambretta Level 7 Lucchese Ludwig Reiter Mackage Marc Joseph New York Mark Fred Mauritius Gmblh International Fashion Mavi Mododoc Moore & Giles Nifty Genius Nil Admirari Original Paperbacks Oxford Lads PAIGE Paraboot PHIL PETTER Polpetta Pure Quartz Co Raleigh Denim Workshop Randolph Reaction Kenneth Cole Relwen Retro Brand Right Bank Shoe Co. Robert Barakett Rock Revival Rockstar Rodd & Gunn Rolando Sturlini Sabatter Sanders Save the Duck SELECTED

Shoe Passion Siga International Slate Denim & Co. Sol Angeles Stitch Note Stone Rose Surfside Supply Co. Ted Baker London Tee Ink. Trask Tricker’s Troubadour Troubadour Goods Ltd. True Grit Urban Camo Velvet by Graham & Spencer Vestige Brand Vince W. Kleinberg The WarmthCrafts-Manufacture We Norwegians Inc. Wolf & Shepherd

Full brand lists for PROJECT and MRket are available at ubmfashion.com.

NIL ADMIRARI

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COMMUNITIES

Agave Anderson’s Autumn Cashmere Bellroy Christopher Fischer CLOSED Derek Rose Faherty Good Man Brand Grayers Haspel HESTRA Jerry Kaye John Smedley KJUS North America, Inc. Ludwig Reiter Mackage Moore & Giles Paraboot Quartz Co Raleigh Denim Workshop Randolph Relwen Troubadour Troubadour Goods Ltd. Vince W. Kleinberg We Norwegians Inc.

HASPEL

THE TENTS are a juried platform for menswear designers that creates an unmatched vision of the high-end contemporary marketplace.

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UBMFASHION.COM | PROJECT + MRKET

COMMUNITIES

MARIO LATORRE BAGS

Alexander Julian Austen Heller Baldessarini Ben Pipano Benson Brackish Brown Allan Caliban Camp Hero Cardinal Of Canada City Sport Caps Cooper Jones Supply F.H. Wadsworth Grays London Halsey Hari Mari Hommard Hook + Albert Individualized Shirts Ledbury Loft 604/Cesarani Margo Petitti Mario Latorre Bags Meyer-MMX Michael Kaye Cravate Mo & Ro Monte & Coe Norwegian Wool Papรก Originals Q by Flynt R_men Res Ipsa Sailors & Brides Stewart Richard Grays Tintoria Mattei Trumbull Rhodes Tumi Outerwear

Vanguards Gallery is a curated selection of new and emerging brands who are soon to be the next big names in menswear.

PROJECT + MRKET | UBMFASHION.COM

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COMMUNITIES

SHOE PASSION

PROJECT Sole highlights the best of contemporary and modern men’s footwear brands by showing them alongside complimentary apparel brands. It allows for full head-to-toe styling and is a convenient one-stop shopping experience for menswear buyers.

Calen Blosso Hush Puppies Illei J & M Est. 1850 Johnston & Murphy Kenneth Cole Black Label Kenneth Cole New York Kenneth Cole Productions Lucchese Marc Joseph New York Nil Admirari

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Polpetta Reaction Kenneth Cole Right Bank Shoe Co. Rolando Sturlini Sabatter Sanders Shoe Passion Trask Tricker’s The WarmthCrafts-Manufacture Wolf & Shepherd

COMMUNITIES

Now in its third season, MOVE highlights not only activewear brands, but also those brands that use performance as the core of their mission statements.

G4 Sport Mizzen + Main MPG Sport Ovadia+

Rhone Strongbody Apparel Sweat Tailor TASC Performance

TASC PERFORMANCE

Classics with a twist is what drives the Modern Prep section of the show floor. Colorful classics and spruced up sportswear are the Modern Prep man’s go-tos.

Modern Prep also offers collegiate dressing with many brands holding licensees.

Castaway Nantucket Island Collared Greens Cutter & Buck Holebrook Sweden The Normal Brand Oxford

Peter Blair Accessories Rowdy Gentleman Smathers and Branson Southern Proper Tailor Vintage Tori Richard Vineyard Vines

PETER BLAIR

PROJECT + MRKET | UBMFASHION.COM

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COMMUNITIES

PANTHERELLA

Brits in New York is comprised of 35+ U.K.-based brands that include the best in British Menswear, from handmade footwear to Savile Row tailoring to colorful sartorial furnishings and British country heritage brands. For the first time, the U.K. Department for International Trade will be hosting a buyer’s lounge in the middle of the Brits in New York section. All attendees are welcome to stop by to preview the best of British style while enjoying tea and biscuits.

Alan Paine Knitwear Alfred Sargent Banvard & James Barbour Barnaby The Bird Dog Group Blue The British Apparel Collection Chrysalis Codis Maya Ltd Corgi Dents Gloves Drake’s Dubarry of Ireland

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UBMFASHION.COM | PROJECT + MRKET

Edward Green English Utopia Ettinger Ltd Fox Umbrellas Harley of Scotland Hogarth JM Dickens Johnstons of Elgin Joseph Cheaney & Sons Kuehnert Inc. Loake Bros Ltd. Oxford Shirt Company Pantherella Penrose London

Richard James Robert Keyte Silks Scott + Charters Scott Nichol Seaward & Stearn London Simon Carter Simpson London Tateossian Ltd. Thompson Tyler & Tyler Viyella William Lockie

COMMUNITIES

FILIPPO DE LAURENTIIS

Made in Italy is the best of the best. Supported by the Italian Trade Commission and featuring the finest brands that Italy has to offer, Made in Italy showcases the craftsmanship that borders on art when it comes to making clothes, accessories and shoes.

Alessandro Gherardi Alessandrosimoni Alfredo Rifugio Napoli Alpetora/G. Manzoni Arcuri Ties Attex SRL Belts + di Piazza Stefano Bresciani 1970 Calabrese 1924 Camouflage AR and J. Cortigiani Croclux Dal Dosso Di Bello by Nipal Dolcepunta Edoardo Borrelli Eyelet Milano Filippo De Laurentiis Flannel Bay

Fly3 Gallia Gallotti Gianni Gallucci Atelier Gimo’s Impulso Ingram Italo Ferretti Italwear/A. Bossi Lorenzoni Luciano Moresco Marchesi Di Como Marco Deluca Bosso Marol Misternic Cashmere MM55 Mon Art Montechiaro Out of Order

Paolo Albizzati Paolo Vitale Puccio Di Piero Redingo Renco Milano Big and Tall Reporter Silvio Fiorello Sinclair Taccaliti Shirts Tardia Teleria Zed Umberto Vallati Valentini Villa Delmitia Vincenzo De Lauziers Vitaliano Zabeo Cashmere Zanni Zenobi

PROJECT + MRKET | UBMFASHION.COM

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PHOTO SHOP

MAJESTIC INTERNATIONAL

AGAVE

BARBOUR CHELSEY IMPORTS

INTERNATIONAL LAUNDRY

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UBMFASHION.COM | PROJECT + MRKET

MAD FOR PLAID Plaid, or tartan if you’re fancy (or Scottish), has been riding low on the menswear radar for a while now, letting camo take its place as the fabric of choice for well-dressed men. Well, we’re glad to say that plaid is back in a big way (and a small way depending on the scale). The great thing is it’s not just casual shirts; we’re seeing dressed up tartan flannels as well.

MAKER & COMPANY

LOFT 604/CESARANI

VIYELLA

GITMAN BROS

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PHOTO SHOP

HITECH In 2017 you can work anywhere as long as you have a smartphone. The world is your office. Technology gives us access to things in a faster, smarter and easier way, but sometimes it’s nice to actually send a note by hand using a beautiful writing instrument. Technology in fashion gives us wrinkle resistant clothing, so you can sleep on the flight and walk into your morning meeting looking fresh.

EYEBOBS

DKNY

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ALDEN

MICHAEL KORS

GRAF VON FABERCASTELL

HOOK + ALBERT

DENTS PROSSIMO JACK VICTOR

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PHOTO SHOP

LAUREN BY RALPH LAUREN

COOPER JONES SUPPLY

RES IPSA

THADDEUS

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UBMFASHION.COM | PROJECT + MRKET

AUSTEN HELLER PANTHERELLA

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN

CAMP HERO

ARTISANAL The antithesis of hi-tech, artisanal is all about the craft, the process and the pleasure that one gets from physically making something with their hands. So many people are trading in their desk jobs to get their hands dirty. In fashion it’s a return to heritage, clothes with authenticity and natural organic colors, fibers and fabrics.

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PHOTO SHOP

NIL ADMIRARI

ALEXANDER JULIAN

STETSON

ROAD TRIP Who hasn’t wanted to just get in the car and start driving? The road trip is the ultimate ideal of American wanderlust, especially the iconic U.S. Route 66, which ran from Chicago to Santa Monica, CA. Ideally you would only have the clothes on your back, but of course the modern road tripper needs more: sunglasses, a good hat for shade and a couple of cool t-shirts. Sometimes the trip is better than the destination.

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HARI MARI

AGAVE

CITY SPORT CAPS

MARK JOSEPH NEW YORK PAPÁ ORIGINALS

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PHOTO SHOP

HASPEL

TATEOSSIAN

HALSEY

IKE BEHAR

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JAMES MCCABE

ANDERSON’S

LEDBURY

CHRYSALIS

AFTER WORK We’re talking about the 5 p.m. in the 9-to-5 day, although today it’s more likely to be 6 or 6:30 p.m., but once work is done the rest of the night belongs to you, whether it’s drinks and playing pool with the boys or a date night with that special person. Today’s modern wardrobe has evolved into the perfect hybrid of clothing that takes you from work to play without losing your cool.

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PHOTO SHOP

A WEEKEND IN THE COUNTRY Sure there’s no place like a big city for culture, sports and career opportunity, but sometimes it’s nice to unplug, pack up and spend the weekend out in nature. While enjoying the small things in life khakis, flannels, denim and a pair of drivers are all you need... besides someone to roll around in the hay loft with, of course.

CASTAWAY NANTUCKET ISLAND

BLUJACKET

AUSTEN HELLER

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TRUMBULL RHODES

CAMP HERO

MARK JOSEPH

COLLARED GREENS CASTAWAY NANTUCKET ISLAND

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DEBUTS

NEW & NOTEWORTHY Every journey begins with one step. These brands that are taking their first step with PROJECT and MRket this season are definitely worth checking out.

Alfredo Rifugio Napoli Amicale Cashmere Armor Lux Astronomy Clothing Attex SRL Ben Pipano Bills Khakis Calen Blosso Camouflage AR and J. Cashmere Clouds Cortigiani Edoardo Borrelli Ettinger Ltd Eyelet Milano G4 Sport Grays London Hickey Freeman Accessories Illei Indian Motorcyle 1901 J & M Est. 1850 John Varvatos Accessories Johnston & Murphy KJUS North America, Inc. LCR Menswear Level 7 Marco Deluca Bosso Mark Fred Marol Michael Kaye Cravate MM55 Monte & Coe

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MyPakage Nifty Genius Nil Admirari Ovadia+ Oxford Papá Originals Paraboot PHIL PETTER Polpetta Q by Flynt Quartz Co Redingo Right Bank Shoe Co. Rolando Sturlini Save the Duck Shoe Passion Siga International Stewart Richard Grays Strongbody Apparel Tee Ink. The Normal Brand The WarmthCraftsManufacture Tricker’s Tyler & Tyler Valentini Victorinox Vincenzo De Lauziers Wolf & Shepherd Zabeo Cashmere Zanetti

UBMFASHION.COM | PROJECT + MRKET

OVADIA+

ACTIVATIONS

THE EDIT Stay one step ahead of the market with the latest menswear trends pulled straight from the show floor. Positioned at the front of the show, see which brands are doing it right!

PRESENTATIONS Produced and styled by industry experts, this season’s on-site 45-minute fashion presentations will take place in the front center of the show floor. Please stop by to see the newest collections from Barbour, Made in Italy and many others.

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MARCUS TROY

#BLOGGERPROJECT A curated content experience that bridges the gap between digital influencers & brands. By connecting the right brands with the right influencers, we create live content from the tradeshow floor. Come say hi and get a picture taken in the #BloggerPROJECT photo studio!

Don’t miss out on connecting with this season’s influencers, follow #BloggerPROJECT and @projectshow for the lineup announcement!

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STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT, AND CIRCULATION (REQUESTER PUBLICATIONS ONLY) (REQUIRED BY 39 USC 3685)

1. Publication Title: MR, the magazine of Menswear Retailing 2. Publication Number: 0007-885 3. Filing Date: 9/30/16 4. Issue Frequency:January, February, April/May, July, August & November 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 6 6. Annual Subscription Price (if any): $34.00 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 50 Day Street, Norwalk, Fairfield County, CT 06854 Contact Person: Jessica Stariha Telephone: 218-740-6870 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: 2 Penn Plaza, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10121 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher: Stuart Nifoussi, 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854 Editor: Karen Alberg, 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854 Managing Editor: None 10. This publication is owned by: Advanstar Communications Inc., 2 Penn Plaza, 15th Floor, New York, NY 10121. The sole shareholder of Advanstar Communications Inc. is: Rocket Holdings, Inc., 1983 Marcus Ave., Suite 205, Lake Success, NY 11042.

11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amounts of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities. None.

12. Does Not Apply 13. Publication Title: MR, the magazine of Menswear Retailing

MR-mag.com is

14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: August 2016 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months

No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date

18,725

21,871

1. Outside County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541

7,548

7,891

2. In-County Paid/Requested Mail Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541

0

0

546

450

trend spotting, and fashion,

0

0

plus an inside look

8,094

8,341

A. Total Number of Copies Legitimate Paid and/or Requested DistribuB. tion

3. Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid or Requested Distribution Outside USPS 4. Requested Copies Distributed by Other Mail Classes Through the USPS Total Paid and /or Requested Circulation C. (Sum of 15b (1), (2), (3), and (4))

4,821

4,571

2. In-County Non-requested Copies Stated on PS Form 3541

0

0

3. Non-requested Copies Distributed Through the USPS by Other Classes of Mail

0

0

4. Non-requested Copies Distributed Outside the Mail

268

277

Total Non-requested Distribution E. (Sum of 15d (1), (2), (3) and (4))

5,089

4,848

F.

13,183

13,189

5,542

8,682

Total Distribution (Sum of 15c and e)

G. Copies not Distributed H. Total (Sum of 15f and g)

18,725

21,871

I.

61.40%

63.24%

Percent Paid and/or Requested Circulation

source for news, insightful analysis, innovative ideas,

at the people who drive

D. Non-requested Distribution 1. Outside County Non-requested Copies Stated on PS Form 3541

your primary online

the menswear business.

MR-mag.com THE POWER OF MR

16. Electronic Copy Circulation *If you are not claiming electronic copies, skip to line 17 17. Publication of Statement of Ownership for a Requester Publication is required and will be printed in the January 2017 issue of this publication.

Name and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner: Kristina Bildeaux, Audience Development Director Signature:

For advertising opportunites, contact Michelle for details 212.600.3325 or Michelle.Brown@UBM.com

Date: 9/30/16 I certify that the statements made by me above are correct and complete.

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2017 MR

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BY MICHAEL MACKO

HOW___________WORK SHIMON AND ARIEL OVADIA

Ariel and Shimon Ovadia founded Ovadia & Sons five years ago. Even though they grew up working with their father in their family-owned children’s wear company, the menswear business was completely new to them. But in a relatively short time they've managed to become a "must wear" brand for fashionable men. Moreover, they recently opened their first pop-up shop at 63 Greene Street in New York’s SoHo district (which will be open until January 31) and their new Ovadia+ activewear line will be on display at MOVE at the MRket and PROJECT NY shows in January. I recently spent a morning with the pair in their new SoHo offices to see how these very busy guys work together.

TWIN TELEPATHY Lest you think the theory of twin telepathy does not apply to fashion, on the day of our interview, both Ovadia brothers were in all black from head to toe. I also noticed on the coat hooks were Shimon's leopard camo, Ariel's classic camo and the same red plaid scarves from their fall collection. I ask them if dressing so similarly was planned and in unison they reply ‘no.’"

THE ART OF FASHION Art inspires both Ovadias, as one can see from the phone sculpture, "Future Relic 05” by artist Daniel Arsham and the collectible "Steamboat Willie" Mickey Mouse statue in the office.

However, this Steven Harrington print on the wall is particularly special because they are doing an exclusive capsule collection for Barneys for spring ‘17 with the artist, who has been cited as the leader of the contemporary Californian psychedelicpop aesthetic.

SNAP TO IT The Ovadias are big vintage clothing collectors and love to use them in the design process. For fall ‘17, military is an extremely important theme, which is why this Swedish military anorak from the 1970s is on the table. Besides the bold color and pattern, they point out numerous details from the coat which inspire them, especially the abundant cargo pockets with double snaps.

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CHOOSING SIDES You can say in a sense that Ariel and Shimon have always shared an office as they are fraternal twins. "We've sat side by side, facing each other and every other configuration you could imagine" says Ariel. They each have their own desks in their current office, but prefer to work together at this table.

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

LET THERE BE LIGHT Both Ovadia brothers are big fans of contemporary lighting brand Pablo, which can be found in their homes, as well as their office. Ariel points out that they love numerous things about the company’s Pixo desk lamp (seen here), including "the color, the simple design, and the utilitarian function.”

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REGISTER NOW visit ubmfashion.com

MR JANUARY 2017

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE / MRKET/PROJECT SHOW PREVIEW

A UBM PUBLICATION

Vol. 28 No. 1