MR Magazine: January 2016

JANUARY 2016

HOT TOPICS OF 2016 NYFW: MEN’S COASTAL COOL TOP MERCHANTS TALK TAILORED CLOTHING

SUIT YOURSELF

PHOTO CREDITS Cicero deGuzman Jenna Bascom Dapper Lou Andre d’Esterno

The

MRKET EVOLUTION “ It is an axiomatic truth that change bears opportunity.

We fully embrace this process and MRket is brimming with meaningful opportunity for the menswear industry in 2016.

The MRket team is hard at work: making big changes, implementing new initiatives to attract and engage retailers and creating exciting activations to the January and February shows in New York and Las Vegas.”

- Britton Jones, President & CEO, BJI Fashion Group

From its inception, MRket has placed a premium on the importance of aesthetics, and so for 2016, MRket is unveiling a new booth design and evolving the overall show’s aesthetic. “We’re proud that MRket pioneered the curated open booth format in Vanguards Gallery, and now, we’re ready to take this expression across the entire show floor,” explains Sharon Enright EVP of Business Journals trade show division. “The show will continue to allow for a private working environment, but in a clean, modern and well-lit presentation. We’re creating an atmosphere that combines an inviting, easy-to-shop & open floor plan with a contemporary structure that facilitates business.”

Vanguards Gallery, a section within MRket, has quickly become a prominent fixture for presenting all that is new, emerging and progressive in menswear. As Joey Mendez, Halls contemporary buyer says, “I love walking the Vanguards Gallery to see what’s new. It’s always a well curated area where you can get a snapshot of upcoming trends and brands.” MRket is the only show in North America to spotlight international groups such as Made in Italy and UK Design, as well as lifestyle hubs on the show floor such as Modern Prep and Coast Life.

MRket continues to add layers of experience in order to keep it fresh and modern, but will always offer all the amenities that make it unique: complimentary breakfast, lunch, and bottled water, coffee / espresso / tea lounge, hosted buyer programs, brand presentations, curated still-life vignettes, cocktail reception, an environment conducive to serious business, and…the list goes on.

Additional plans are in the works but can’t be revealed just yet but there is no doubt that the industry will be impressed. MRket invites the men’s community to experience the evolution in New York and Las Vegas.

NEW YO RK JANUARY 24-26, 2016 | SUN-TUES | THE JAVITS CENTER LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 | MON-WED | THE SANDS EXPO/PALAZZO

EXHIBIT: 212.686.4412

ATTEND: 866.696.6020

WWW.MRKETSHOW.COM @MRKETSHOW #MRKETSHOW #VANGUARDSGALLERY

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10 HOT TOPICS OF 2016 The inside scoop on the biggest issues the industry is talking about

8

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK: MEN’S A preview of the second bi-annual presentation of fantastic fashion.

26

TAILORED TRANSITIONS Top clothing merchants talk about what challenges they currently face.

72

HOW ____ WORKS Todd Snyder shares the secrets to his successful everyday work life.

Heavy overcoats in statement fabrics are finding favor with customers who place increasing value on individual expression.

37 SUIT YOURSELF

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA, S/S ’16.

Fall’s tailored clothing leans to the casual and comfortable.

Contents

Also in this issue: 6 Editor’s Letter 10 People: Marco Baldessari 32 Coastal Cool 38 Fashion On our cover: Belstaff COAT; Ermenegildo Zegna SUIT, SCARF; Eleventy VEST; Calvin Klein SHIRT; Etro WRAP; David Yurman JEWELRY. This page: David Hart COAT; Eleventy VEST; Caruso PANTS; Florsheim SHOES.

Talliaorange.com 1.800.366.9363 NY MRKET BOOTH #341

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ______________________________________________________________________________________________Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 710-7422 KARENA@MR-MAG.COM MANAGING EDITOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________Brian Scott Lipton (212) 710-7459 BRIANL@MR-MAG.COM FASHION DIRECTOR ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Buckley (212) 710-7424 WILLIAMB@MR-MAG.COM WEB EDITOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Stephen Garner (212) 710-7436 STEPHENG@MR-MAG.COM COPY EDITOR ______________________________________________________________________________________________________Jillian LaRochelle (212) 710-7442 JILLIANL@BUSJOUR.COM EDITOR-AT-LARGE _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Michael Macko MICHAELM@MR-MAG.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITER _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Kissel (805) 693-5838

ADVERTISING PUBLISHER EMERITUS _______________________________________________________________________________________________Stuart Nifoussi (212) 710-7407 STUNIFOO@MR-MAG.COM PUBLISHER ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin (212) 710-7414 LIZETTEC@MR-MAG.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER _____________________________________________________________________________________________Michelle Brown (212) 710-7413 MICHELLEB@MR-MAG.COM ADVERTISING AND SPONSORSHIP MANAGER ________________________________________________________________________Kenyon Clemons (212) 710-7440 KENYONC@MR-MAG.COM DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS __________________________________________________________________________________________Samuel Johnson (212) 710-7421 SAMUELJ@MR-MAG.COM ADVERTISING COORDINATOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________Donna Doyle (212) 710-7417 DONNAD@MR-MAG.COM

ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Hans Gschliesser DESIGNER _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Joanne Kvaka DESIGNER __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Peggy Eadie EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE _______________________________________________________________________________1384 BROADWAY, 11TH FL., NEW YORK, NY 10018 (212) 686-4412 FAX: (212) 686-6821 BUSINESS OFFICE __________________________________________________________________________________________________50 DAY STREET, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 853-6015 FAX: (203) 852-8175

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, MARIO’S Wayne Drummond ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Doug Ewert_______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________CEO, MEN’S WEARHOUSE Dan Farrington _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP David Fisher___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, OUTLETS, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Tom Ott ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________VP/GMM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE David Witman _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________EVP/GMM, NORDSTROM

BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC. CHAIRMAN & COO _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Mac Brighton PRESIDENT & CEO _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Britton Jones CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Christine Sullivan VICE PRESIDENT, MENSWEAR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin

SUBSCRIPTIONS

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OR YOU CAN CALL US AT 1-800-869-6882.

MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published six times a year (January, February, April/May, July, August and November) by Business Journals, Inc. 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 143678. Subscription for the U.S. $34 one year, $53 two years; Canada $63 one year, $95 two years (Canadian currency). Foreign $102, Air Mail. Single copies: U.S. $4.00; Foreign $4.00 plus postage. Claims for undelivered copies not honored after 30 days from publication (90 days for overseas). ©2016 Business Journals, Inc. Address correction requested. Postmaster send address changes to MR, P.O. Box 47370, Plymouth, MN 55447-0370. Printed in the USA.

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MR JANUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

Jim McKenry, Brand Manager, 130 West 57th St, Suite 9C, New York, NY 10019, 212.757.4664, jmckenry@birddoggroup.net $ODQ 3DLQH .QLWZHDU /WG $ +DPLOWRQ :D\ 2DNKDP %XVLQHVV 3DUN 0DQV¿ HOG 1RWWV (QJODQG 1* %8 ZZZ DODQSDLQH FR XN

{ EDITORIAL }

AND THE

GOODNEWS IS...

Online might be growing at the expense of brick and mortar, but smart merchants are figuring out how to maximize both.

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

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MR JANUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

PHOTO BY KEITH BARRACLOUGH PHOTOGRAPHY

No one’s denying it’s been a tough season at retail. Minimal increases on Black Friday and Cyber Monday were offset by unusually slow days. In NYC as I write this, temperatures are in the mid-60s and tourist traffic is down thanks to the strong dollar. Stores have been filled with markdowns for many months already; high inventories will mean even steeper markdowns just when consumers finally need those down jackets and fleece gloves. To make matters worse, there’s no hot item or new trend in menswear to drive in-store traffic. So what’s the good news?

The good news for menswear merchants is demographics: there’s a new generation of young males who grew up with the internet, who are interested in fashion, style, grooming, heritage brands, artisan craftsmanship, customization, individual style. These guys live in Brooklyn and San Francisco and Toronto and Dallas. They’re already the prevalent generation in numbers and soon, in spending power.

They read fashion blogs, even men’s style sections in The New York Times and The Wall Street Journal.

(Men’s style sections in esteemed national newspapers: who could have imagined it?) These Millennials might not shop the old way, follow the old rules or buy the same old brands, but they are very much interested in clothes!

More good news: smart retailers recognize the shift in demographics and are changing their businesses accordingly. There’s been much buzz about the early retirement plan Macy’s recently offered its top executives, a move that should not only reduce expenses but also establish a fresh point of view. Most stores are closing their underperforming units. Many retailers are already omni-channel and are investing more aggressively in online. Some are focused on training programs, even for sales associates who are finally being recognized as key to the business. (Some stores are even increasing pay!) Most are using social media, some interactively. Many are cutting back on all those tired old mega-brands that, despite guaranteeing retailer margins, are taking up valuable space that might be put to better use (e.g. testing new brands, pop-up shops or a coffee bar, bakery, monogram station, charging station, grooming salon, even a DJ perhaps).

So bottom line, we at MR, mr-mag.com and MRket are highly optimistic about 2016, and we look forward to a year of industry innovation. Please let us know what you’re up to so we can include you in our features, and check out the many exciting changes we’ve implemented at the January MRket show. As always, we welcome your suggestions, appreciate your support, and truly cherish your friendship.

#NYFWM – The Sequel While not always the case, occasionally a sequel can best its original incarnation.

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY This season, the second New York Fashion Week: Men’s will take place from February 1-4 in a larger studio space, with additional designers, and Amazon, Cadillac and Dockers will continue their sponsorships. An educated guesser might speculate that this dedicated men’s week in New York will become a firm fixture on the global fashion calendar for the foreseeable future, despite a number of naysayers.

Indeed, a recent article on Bloomberg quoted former Paris Vogue editor Debra Scherer as saying, “Another branded fashion week is the last thing we need. It’s too much, and it’s bad for the industry because it dilutes everything.”

But most people believe if the most globally influential city on the planet wants a dedicated men’s week, well, it will have one. “At NYMD, we’ve always had a good turnout from New York buyers and media,” explains Erin Hawker, founder of New York Men’s Day (which kicks off NYFW:Men’s).“With the implementation of a dedicated men’s week, we saw a significant increase in attendance by international buyers and media that flew in specifically for NYFW:Men’s,

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MR JANUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

and an increase in domestic buyers.”

Still, this sequel has challenges that July’s NYFW:Men’s didn’t. “The challenge this season is the timing,” explains CFDA president Steven Kolb. “Our first season was July, with the women's shows in September. There isn't that wide of a span in the fall/winter market, so for some designers who do both men's and women's, back-to-back shows are a challenge.”

Take Public School: instead of a dedicated men’s show at NYFW:Men’s, the brand will fold men’s into its women’s show at New York Fashion Week, which takes place one week later. Still, with so much focus on menswear right now, the few defectors shouldn’t matter much.

Tom Kalenderian, executive vice president and GMM, men’s at Barneys, believes that “it is better to have separate men’s shows. It allows the buyers the opportunity to focus on the menswear offering in a more efficient and effective way.” And that focus, from both an individual and a global perspective, is still essential.

“We've never gotten more press,” says menswear designer Todd Snyder. “Typically we do maybe

one interview. Last season we were everywhere, The New York Times did maybe 10 different articles, and that has never happened. Usually it’s just so hard to compete with women's.”

Snyder noticed the impact on business. “So many buyers that have never attended our show were there, such as Mr Porter and The Webster, which is a very up-and-coming retailer that is in some ways more relevant than some of the luxury department stores. It has a really unique edit, and they picked up our Champion line.”

As Laure Heriard Dubreuil, founder of The Wesbter explained: “We attended the first NYFW:Men’s last July and were impressed by the strong collections, the increased level of show production and the emphasis on the guest experience. A show is the best way to understand the designer's point of view and become immersed in their universe, taking in all of the elements that go into a great show: the set, styling, model casting. Menswear is becoming more and more important each season, and NYFW:Men’s is now a must for me to discover new talents and appreciate the brands we currently carry.”

{ #NYFW:MEN’S }

OVADIA & SONS

A contrast of Jewish religious cultures against the urban New York canvas.”

MATIERE

THE MOOD

A sense of modern migration, equipping and updating the traditional traveler with the functionalities to explore today’s world.”

A few fall/winter 2016 collections, simmered down to their designer’s visual inspiration.

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

TODD SNYDER

A modern and techy twist on the men of Paul Strand’s ‘La France de Profil.’”

For more moodboards, visit www.mr-mag.com.

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2016 MR

9

{ PEOPLE }

THE NEW LUXURY

Eleventy’s Marco Baldessari shares his passion for business, and for life.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

In just a few short years, Eleventy has become a go-to staple for fashionable men (and women) around the globe, as this Italian brand’s sportswear and clothing are now top sellers in leading stores. Recently, founder Marco Baldessari sat down with MR and shared success secrets.

HOW DID THE BRAND COME ABOUT? About seven years ago, I had a dream to start my own clothing company.

I was working as an agent with Paolo Zuntini repping various Italian lines, and I was always in close communication with my retail accounts.

I would ask why customers were buying this and not that; I was willing to listen and learn to discover new windows of opportunity.

What I learned was this: customers with confidence do not need status logos. There is a new generation of consumers between 35 and 55 very different from that age group 10 years ago. They’re into fitness; they eat healthy; they travel. They have money to spend; they appreciate fashion and quality but they don’t need the security of status labels.

So we started a small collection—with no logos—and it’s been growing every year. We now have 80 employees plus artisans working for us throughout Italy (we call them partners, not suppliers). The collection is about lifestyle rather than status. (We sometimes call it luxury leisure, which is more sophisticated than “athleisure”.)

HOW IS THE BRAND DOING? We have eight shops in Italy, seven shop-in-shops with a partner in Korea, and we’re growing throughout Europe and Asia. Our store in Capri sells to many celebrities who can afford to shop anywhere; it makes me proud that very rich people appreciate our product! Our U.S. business is just a few seasons old but it’s taken off: we’re in Saks, Bloomingdale’s, Trunk Club, Stanley Korshak, Mario’s and other fine stores. I sometimes find it all hard to believe.

WHAT’S THE SECRET TO YOUR SUCCESS? I think it’s a combination of our passion for what we do, our service orientation, and the great prices on our Italian-made fashion. The true luxury customer is more educated than ever. He might buy on impulse but in general, he puts more thought into his purchases. He’s looking for value. But the collection also appeals to a younger generation who loves fashion, appreciates quality but can’t afford to spend their entire rent check on a sportcoat.

SPEAKING OF YOUTHFUL, IS IT TRUE THAT YOUR FATHER WEARS ELEVENTY? Yes, my father is now wearing our clothing, looking like a much younger man and smiling more often. He had been retired, but today, he’s working full time with us in computer support and he’s a new person.

“You’ve given me life,” he recently told me. And I can see the adrenaline and the energy that’s come back to him!

And that, for me, is the secret to life. If you love what you do, it’s not work. When I interview people to hire, I don’t care about their resume; I look to see the passion in their eyes.

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MR JANUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

Each of the slender writing instruments of our series “Tamitio” is the expression of pure elegance and therefore both an eye-catcher and stylish accessory.

The finely fluted barrel made of metal is lacquered in several elaborate working steps.

An innovative lacquer ensures a long-lasting matte surface.

Available in midnight blue, rose, marsala and black.

Handmade in Germany Faber-Castell USA, Inc. • 800-311-8684 • www.Graf-von-Faber-Castell.com • www.FaberCastell.com Contact: Sheila Hopkins - Sheila@Fabercastell.com Visit us at MRKET • The Jacob Javits Center, NYC • January 24-26, 2016 • Booth #562

HOT TOPICS

CADET

Is everybody happy? Are we getting our goods fast enough? Is the next big American designer decided? Are consumers spending their money in the right retail environments?

MR digs deep to get the inside scoop on the industry’s most important issues for 2016.

1. NOT FOR MEN ONLY

R

ecently it seems every season another slew of formerly men's-only brands are launching women’s lines. In 2015, that slew included Michael Bastian, Public School, Tim Coppens and Cadet. Even that seeming-inherently men's shopping service, Trunk Club, founded on the idea that most men don't like to shop, has introduced a women's service. As if they need any encouragement: women shop socially, cathartically, even practically. But research company NPD Group reports the women's business as over $116 billion compared to men's more modest $60 billion. The latter isn’t exactly chump change, but still, some designers see a big opportunity.

"Raul and I were at Amarcord, a vintage fashion boutique on Lafayette Street, looking for inspiration samples and saw a group of women shopping at the boutique," recalls Cadet's Brad Schmidt. "They were enthusiastically shopping, trying on shoes, jackets, sweaters, dresses and everything in between, and they were not approaching shopping from necessity: they were shopping for a fun time with their friends. They were all encouraging each other to buy ‘that cute dress’, ‘those amazing shoes’ while running in and out of the dressing rooms and modeling for their friends, and they all walked out with bags and bags of purchases. We have three Cadet menswear retail boutiques in New York and I have never seen that happen, ever."

So while there is something special about a men's only brand, it isn't hard to see why so many are choosing to court the female customer as well. —WB

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2. INSTANT GRATIFICATION

S

peed matters in our fast-paced world. We’re all in such a hurry to zip through all our daily activities in the shortest amount of time that there’s no way we’re doing anything well, or possibly enjoying it.

For retailers, the issue is giving customers the immediate delivery they now expect without sacrificing profit margins. Threeday delivery has become overnight delivery has become same-day delivery has become one-hour delivery, each more expensive than the next. And if the store can’t deliver on its promised timetable, customers are quick to shop elsewhere.

To make matters worse, customers no longer expect to pay for any of this. According to a recent Harris poll of 2,241 American adults, 66 percent say that shipping costs are their biggest shopping pet peeve. According to a recent study reported on the RetailDive website, half of surveyed shoppers have a totally unforgiving attitude toward home delivery. In fact, 60 percent opt for in-store pick-up of online orders, a costly service for retailers but less costly than fast shipping and free returns.

Amazon Prime has certainly raised the bar on consumer expectations: free one-day delivery, free same-day delivery on over-$35 purchases in 16 metro areas, free two-hour delivery and one-hour delivery for $7.99. Unfortunately, few stores have the critical mass or membership income to pay for this, and many are thus searching for a new approach to fulfillment and logistics.

As for consumers demanding faster than one-hour delivery, here’s a novel idea: why not just walk into a store, find what you like, buy it on the spot and take it home with you? —KAG

3. OFF-PRICE IS ON THE MONEY

T

he days when off-price shopping meant going to Filene’s Basement (and we do mean the basement of the venerable Boston store) seem like more than a couple of decades ago. Today, top brick-and-mortar retailers are enticing consumers to spend their hard-earned dollars in places that let them buy more bling for their buck.

Nordstrom Rack, which now represents about 40 percent of the company’s business according to one report, is planning to have 300 branches in place in the U.S. by 2020, while Hudson’s Bay Co. will have opened well over 100 Saks Off 5th stores in the U.S. and Canada by the end of 2016 (including its first in New York City) and recently launched Find@Lord & Taylor in the shopping center capital of the Northeast (aka Paramus, New Jersey).

While these off-price stores are meant to appeal to everyone from tweens to Boomers and beyond (except those perhaps with bad feet), Hudson’s Bay president of outlets, Jonathan Greller, believes one generation is particularly excited by the off-price shopping experience. “We’ve found Saks Off 5th delivers an exciting ‘thrill-of-the-hunt’ environment to a Millennial shopper demographic,” he says.

Of course, what you’ll find may vary from store to store. Bloomingdale’s Michelle Israel pointed out that the New York City branch of Bloomingdale’s Outlet had only a small percentage of goods made directly for the store, with a larger emphasis on brand-name merchandise from previous seasons as well as current offerings. And the reality is that customers rarely seem to care about the provenance, provided they like what they see and they can afford it! —BSL

4. RESORTING TO SHOPPING

ISLAND COMPANY

S

tore owners are beginning to realize that tourists might want to go home with something more substantial than just a “Miami” sweatshirt while they’re on vacation. To wit: Bloomingdale’s just opened a three-level, 165,000-square-foot store at Honololu’s famed Ala Moana mall, while Tommy Bahama continues to expand its footprint in Hawaii, having opened its ninth store there late last year.

Meanwhile, taking cues from the often expansive minimalls found in Las Vegas’ largest hotels, it’s become increasingly common to find vacation-friendly apparel shops such as Polo Ralph Lauren and Island Company inside the four walls of the nation’s top resorts.

Says Island Company founder Spencer Antle, whose newest store can be found in the 4,000-square-foot RitzCarlton in Fort Lauderdale: “Hotel developers have been slow to come around, because they were more concerned about room revenue than store revenue. But they’ve finally realized that some visitors, especially older people, come to resorts and really want to shop.” If this trend keeps up, who’ll ever need to pack? —BSL

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2016 MR

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5. IS THE BEARD DEAD?

ISTOCK:

WALKER & COMPANY BRANDS

M

ost people have heard enough about “Lumbersexuals” and knit-hat, Williamsburg-residing bearded hipsters to last a lifetime. But that does not mean men are going to start shaving again anytime soon, say grooming insiders. “The beard is definitely not dead! It’s the number-one topic of the grooming questions that I get asked from our readers,” says Brian Boye, executive fashion and grooming editor of Men’s Health. Adds Jeff Laub, one of the founders of NYC-based Blind Barber: “It’s one of the few things that we have as men that helps define one’s personal style.”

What everyone does agree on though is that if you are going to have a beard, you have to maintain it. One of the biggest myths about facial hair is that having a beard is much easier than being clean-shaven.

“Maintaining a good-looking beard can take just as much, if not more, work and dedication than having a smooth shave,” says Kurt Iverson, senior communications manager, North America for Gillette.

Boye recommends using a beard oil to keep your beard smooth, while Laub insists that you see a barber to help you keep your beard trimmed to the right shape and length for your face. “It’s our job to make you the best version of yourself possible,” he notes. —MM

7. TAKING THE DIRECT ROUTE

T 6.PICTURE PERFECT ith more than 80 million photos posted and 3.5 million likes per day, it’s only natural for brands within the fashion industry to utilize Instagram, but that doesn’t mean just posting a wellcurated gallery of product shots. Endorsements are part of many companies’ marketing tactics. Celebrities are reportedly being paid thousands of dollars just for one Instagram post highlighting a company’s products, while brands have also been known to outfit bloggers in their wares and pay them to show up at events, all for the sake of Instanotoriety.

Stores also benefit from the Instagram revolution. “It’s where we share the store’s news, new products, and it’s the easiest way for us to communicate the Tabor lifestyle. Our customers respond to beautiful visuals,” says Laura Vinroot Poole, founder of recently opened Tabor in Charlotte, North Carolina.

In addition, larger stores like Uniqlo are utilizing the platform to get to know their customers better. “It gives us a completely democratic look at what our customers are wearing, how they're wearing it and where they're wearing it,” says Amandine Chow, director of Uniqlo USA digital marketing.

So if you’re not on the Instagram bandwagon, it’s time to hop aboard!

Instagram isn’t just a blip in today’s marketing strategy; it’s the plan of the future, and it is here to stay. —SG

W

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here can be no doubt that the growing digital landscape has changed the way shoppers behave. According to a November 2015 U.S. Census Bureau quarterly sales report, total retail sales for the third quarter of 2015 were estimated at $1.18 trillion.

Of that total, e-commerce sales accounted for $87.5 billion. So is it any surprise that emerging brands, especially those looking to target techsavvy Millennial consumers, are taking note of this shift and skipping the wholesale route altogether?

Fashion start-ups like collegiate sweater brand Hillflint, hosiery-on-demand brand Nice Laundry and LA-based denim brand DSTLD have all fostered successful growth through extensive use of multiple web-based channels, including social media, blogs and e-commerce.

Rising neckwear brand David Fin even refuses to wholesale its ties in fear of getting “lost in the shuffle” of department stores’ large furnishings departments—even if it means smaller volume.

Does this trend spell the end of brick-andmortar stores? Will your computer soon be the only way to purchse what you want to wear?

Not necessarily. According to the 2015 PricewaterhouseCoopers’ Annual Global Total Retail Consumer Survey, as online shopping continues to grow at the expense of store visits, success will be determined by creating unique, brand-defining experiences that keep customers coming back—whatever the channel.

Adds MR expert Steve Pruitt: “Retailers need to borrow strategies from e-commerce retailers, embrace digital marketing and selling, develop a promotional game plan and offer a great experience.” —SG

BRIAN CHAMBERLAIN 124F3RF

8. SEASONAL CONUNDRUM ISTOCK:

I

t’s January, and as usual the winter weather has only just begun. At retail though, winter wear has been available for purchase for months, and now, as temperatures actually decrease, ridiculously, so do the prices. Few men buy winter coats when it’s warm out. For most, it takes a week or so of deep freeze and frostbitten extremities before they consider buying cold weather clothes.

While the overall poor retail climate may be as responsible for markdowns as the weather, VF’s Karen Murray, president of Nautica and Kipling, points the finger at the changing retail industry. “Bringing in product early when customers don’t need it, then deeply discounting it at the end of the retail calendar when customers actually do need it, is when we all lose money and the customer wins, and they've been winning more and more each year. We need to lower the stacks of ‘stuff’ in the stores, promote product less and figure out what else will drive traffic.”

“The deliveries are getting earlier and earlier, and the markdowns are happening sooner and sooner, to the point that the season is never realized at full price,” says Carson Street Clothiers’ Brian Trunzo. “You'll always have your guy who wants it first, who buys his statement outerwear in July as soon as it hits shelves, but this customer is few and far between. ‘Buy now-wear now’ customers get the deals.”

Adds Murray: “We have hurt the price-value [proposition] of apparel. Not long ago, the customer was willing to pay a fair price for lifestyle and luxury apparel, and it was rare to use a coupon. Now, customers are immune to discounts since they can ensure that they get the lowest price at the touch of their fingertip and have it delivered to their doorstep.

So the big question is: How do we create a sense of urgency for customers to purchase now rather than later? How do we entice them to appreciate great product, and believe that the price is the price? We think we have some answers that we're testing next year, but I’m not sure I want to share them in this article...” —WB

10. WHO WILL BE THE NEXT BIG AMERICAN MENSWEAR DESIGNER BRAND?

W

9. SEEING THE LIGHT?

ISTOCK

I

f you worked for The Huffington Post instead of where you are now, according to a July 2015 interview with Arianna Huffington in The New York Times Magazine, your workplace would include nap rooms, meditation rooms, breathing classes, even hammocks in the newsroom.

According to the website eMindful, which provides wellness programs for employees, the return on investment to employers for every dollar spent on a “mindfulness” program is $8.70. And Natalie Bell, director of corporate programs for Unplug Meditation, maintains that practicing meditation improves concentration, morale and teamwork.

So why did so many Huffington Post employees still tell the Times it’s a tough place to work: fast pace, low pay, brutal and toxic atmosphere? Is it really good business for corporations to look out for the physical, emotional and spiritual wellbeing of their employees by investing in a few wellness perks (yoga classes at lunchtime, healthy snacks, a ping pong table) or do year-end bonuses, better health insurance and a good 401K provide a greater sense of well-being? Our guess is that Baby Boomers will always choose bonuses and profit sharing whereas Millennials might opt for yoga, ping pong and/or free food.

But here’s a modest proposal: Why not query your employees and find out what might motivate them? —KAG

ho will be the next singlename American designer brand that every guy in the country will be dying to flaunt?

Todd? Thom? Tom? As you might imagine, lots of retailers in the industry have opinions (although no one wants to go on the record for fear of upsetting friends, vendors or worse yet, advertisers).

So what’s the answer? Well, there’s no clear consensus.

One hot designer whose name surfaces repeatedly is Todd Snyder, who honed his design sensibilities at J. Crew before starting his own brand in 2008 (which was sold earlier this year to American Eagle for $11 million).

Other names that come up in conversations include Thom Browne, who first made a splash some years ago with his shrunken suits, and Ovadia & Sons, whose name recognition with the general public might still take a few years.

One retailer said the next big name had yet to emerge, while another had an entirely different outlook. “There are several talented designers out there who I think will thrive, such as Public School, John Elliot and Stampd. But I think the days of a dominant mega-designer brand are over.” —MM

For more Hot Topics of 2016, visit MR-Mag.com.

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2016 MR

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n e w yo r k

JA N UA R Y 2 4 -2 6 , 2 0 1 6 Jaco b Jav i t s C e n t e r

l a s v e ga s

F E B R UA R Y 1 6 -1 8 , 2 0 1 6 M a n da l ay B ay Co n v e n t i o n C e n t e r

@ P R OJ E C T S H OW

R e g i s t e r N ow » m ag i c o n l i n e .c o m

Special Advertorial Section

ITALY@

{ ITALIAN { CLOTHING }} MADE IN STYLE ITALY

MR Magazine takes a look at the brands of Made In Italy at the MRket NY show scheduled for Sunday, January 24 to Tuesday, January 26, 2016 at the Javits Center in New York City.

GIANGI BOOTH 1022

The FW16 collection is characterized by a mix-

MONTECHIARO BOOTH 1126

ture of tradition and innovation. The colors of

Amazing color combinations for a tradi-

this season take inspiration from the northern

tional “Made in Italy” sweater line.

sea and English seaside.

ITALO FERRETTI BOOTH 1118

"An exceptional collection of high end ties, bow ties and scarves in many styles and colors"

TACCALITI SHIRTS BOOTH 1144

The Taccaliti company was founded in the early 1900s.

Today the fourth generation of this family produces

ALESSANDRO GHERARDI BOOTH 1113

Is there anything more elegant, effortless, and

high quality made in italy shirts, and offers a huge variety of SERVICES SUCH AS MTM PROGRAMS,, in stock service, big & tall and private label.

BELTS + DI PIAZZA STEFANO

iconic than a beautiful white shirt? Oxford or

BOOTH 1139

maybe a luxe popeline,no matter your look, every-

Our belts are tailored to your request.

thing is elevated by a perfect white shirt.

ALESSANDRO SIMONI BOOTH 921

Production of the luxe knitwear in cashmere and superfine merinos.

ALESSANDROSIMONI is specialized also in double reversible cashmeres is very selected in design models in a classic stream but with an updated twist and has a wide colour palette.

TARDIA BOOTH 1026

Tardia is synonymous with of tailoring, style and Italian tradition. Quality is a priority and inalienable requirement that always guide the stylist choices. Each coat is designed and produced exclusively in Italy according to tailoring criteria.

L'ABATE ROSSO BOOTH 1127

The use of the finest leathers and luxury accessories, combined with experienced craftsmanship, make L'ABATE ROSSO® belts unique and exclu-

MISTERNIC CASHMERE

sive, a perfect balance of design, a tactile emotion.

BOOTH 1125

Misternic-cashmere was born from an extended experience in the textile sector and together with research, innovation, imagination and style produces knitwear in cashmere for casual, everyday wear. Misternic-cashmere is exclusive thanks to the selection of the best fibers and the utmost attention to every stage of manufacturing. Made in Italy is our flag.

GIMO’S

LORENZONI

BOOTH 1007

CAPRI

Gimo’s proposes a definitely young and edgy style image,

BOOTH 741

shapes have been renewed in volumes, sizes and length

Simplification of forms to give harmony to the daily

proportions. Materials used are glove soft Nappa and su-

use of the jacket. Indigo’s alchemy for a blue color

perlight suedes The look is used yet sophisticated.

that has always captured the imagination. Unconventional shirts, reinvented with new stripes and embroi-

BOOTH 1126

deries to underline new color shades. For a man that

High end and lightweight sweaters in fine gauges and

feels free in his way of dressing, who is unconven-

fine yarns such as merino extrafine and soft cotton follow-

tional and that leaves the classical schemes.

ing the consolidated Italian tradition in the luxury niche.

JANUARY 2016 MRKETNY

MORA LUCIANO MORESCO BOOTH 1109

Luciano Moresco is an Italian brand based in New York City. Today Luciano Moresco dresses up the Contemporary Gentlemen

BOOTH 1110

Polos & shirts using natural fibre like cotton or cotton/cashmere microjacquard and digital printed with trimming and details in contrast combined with fine knitwear in pure 100% merino wool or pure 100% cashmere.

with a bright and colorful total look, from the casual and fashionable jacket to the classy and elegant suit.

DAL DOSSO BOOTH 1029

DINO BIGIONI

An Italian gloves brand, always looking for a

BOOTH 1037

fashion product of high quality, paying atten-

Born at the beginning of sixties to offer

tion to elegance and new trends.

to the market a men’s shoe with the top quality and design.

TELERIA ZED BOOTH 1131

GALLIA BOOTH 915

Teleria Zed is the rediscovery of ancient craftsmanship in the production of trousers, combined with research and

Gallia is a tailored shirt with unique de-

innovation in manufacturing. From a strictly 100% made-

tails and a very suggestive packaging.

in-Italy chain, the result you get is a finished garment with a distinct identity.

LEOPOLDO CASHMERE BOOTH 1135

Sweaters of exceptional softness and

DI BELLO BY NIPAL

style, following only

BOOTH 1036

one essential princi-

The ultimate leather & shearling source. Lambskin

ple: passion.

suede, Lambskin nappa, Goose down micro, Goose down nappa, Sheepskin jackets, we do it all.

BRESCIANI BOOTH 1015

100% Made in Italy high quality socks since 1970.

And now high quality underwear too.

CALABRESE 1924 BOOTH 1115

Ties, scarves , accessories and luggage for charming men that look for something unique and exclusive.

VITALIANO BOOTH 933

100% made in Italy , Vitaliano’s Ties are hand-made in pure silk fabrics printed in ex-

070 STUDIO-LANDI

clusive and colorful designs.

BOOTH 1014

Formal Accessories,such as

ARALDI 1930

Ties, Bowties, Cummer-

BOOTH 927

bunds and Scarves are

Luxury leathergoods for men: bags, small leathergoods,

Landi 070 focuses on contemporary comfort as the key interpretation of today’s cosmopoli-

made in jacquard &satin silk

and belts handmade in Italy in crocodile skin and other fine

fabrics with Swarovski Crys-

quality leather held to rigorious selection standard forming a

tals Trimmings".

defined seal of quality, excellence and uniqueness.

tan man. This Made In Italy collection combines the classic with the contemporary in its use of fabric and design of lightweight outerwear.

SILVIO FIORELLO BOOTH 1140

Since 1986 Silvio Fiorello specializes in handmade ties, bow ties, scarves, cummerbunds, ascots, silk shirts, silk shoes and silk nightwear. Using the best Italian silks our products are a true work of art, perfect for the discerning modern gentleman.

SINCLAIR BOOTH 1012

Sinclair designs classic and contemporary fine leather and suede outerwear for the modern man.

With a luxury feel and an elegant form, Sinclair rep-

MASSIMILIANO STANCO BOOTH 931

Massimiliano Stanco has cultivated its own authentic style by bringing together audacity, creativity and classicism. Expertise in shape, fine leather patinas, precision cut and attentiveness to details are the signatures of the ideal male wardrobe.

DOLCEPUNTA BOOTH 1107 Sartorial Ties !!!

resents the best of Made In Italy quality leathers.

JANUARY 2016 MRKETNY

RENCO BIG AND TALL BOOTH 1123

GERMANO

The brand was born in 1926 in Milan. The strength of the company is

BOOTH 1018

being able to dress men with unusual sizes who do not want to lose

Founded in the 50s, as a small handicraft factory it

the high made in Italy quality and the luxury hand made style.

IMPULSO BOOTH 1126

then became a landmark in clothing, basing its value

A sportive line with modern fit inspired by

on a 100% Made in Italy product with exclusive fea-

nautical colors: white, blue, red. A lot of de-

tures: tailoring basting, unique design, fine fabrics.

tails make this line of sweaters, sweatshirts, polos, blazers, shirts, pants and windbrakers the ideal wardrobe for leisure time and trips.

UMBERTO VALLATI CROCLUX

BOOTH 1141

The ability to interpret the future through style

BOOTH 1133

for a “unique” product of its kind. This is the

Croclux has distinguished itself for the quality and continu-

philosophy of “Umberto Vallati” brand, a prod-

ous care during all process of manufacturing. Using tradi-

uct with a strong “metropolitan” character, in-

tional techniques and selecting high quality reptile skins.

novative and interpreted with the utmost attention to small details.

REPORTER BOOTH 1008

Designed to be comfortable Reporter takes his name from the best known movie by M.Antonioni. A brillant made in Italy total look with a competitive price and a wide proposal.

ITALWEAR/ ANDREA BOSSI BOOTH 1019

Shirts Sweaters and Shoes manufactured with high quality fabrics,yarns and materials with special emphasis on styling and details.

MILANO140 BOOTH 1132

New brand of homewear/outwear Made in Italy developed in collaboration with a new Italian "start-up" founded by three young graduates with specific training in the fashion & retail.

BAGNOLI SARTORIA NAPOLI BOOTH 923

The golden rules of Neapolitan tailoring are the starting point for a style which

DALMINE 1952

is always fashionable. Bagnoli Sartoria Napoli follows trends and tastes more than fashion and focuses on the needs of today’s man.

BOOTH 1027

"DALMINE" 1952 is characterized by a relentless pursuit of trend analysis & design inspiration in the world of men’s knitwear. Our jacquard designs often embody shading effects, evanescent florals which evoke neo-British details and micro tie designs. From an artisanal aspect, we develop through three-dimensional textures, and compact or manual interventions that make the

GIOSBRUN ROMA PARIOLI

workmanship unique (as seen with our needle

BOOTH 1122

effects or leather trims).

Giosbrun was founded in 2009 reinterpreting the authentic tastes of Italian craftsman-

FEFE GLAMOUR POCHETTE

ship. The Italian taste and know-how in

BOOTH 1023

wearing elegance are ready to reveal them-

Pocketsquares of the classical tradition, revisited in a modern

selves to the world.

version, revolutionized in the style, in presentation, in essence.

CERVO-BARBISIO BOOTH 1041

Barbisio presents its new autumn-winter collection with a sixties flavour: Strong attention to the forms and proportions, in a perfect alchemy of felts and textures for a big return of classic models: Fedora, Homburg and Trilby.

VILLA DELMITIA ARCURI TIES BOOTH 1033

Ties are those distinctive accessories which enable man to present himself with style. They are an expression of personality, and when they are handmade sartorially, with attention to detail, they will portray the heart and soul of the man. Ties are those distinctive accessories which enable man to present himself with style. They are an expression of personality, and when they are hand-

BOOTH 1011

Collections composed by an elegant selection of high top quality MEN’s pyjamas, dressing gowns, night shirts, smoking jackets as well as a wide range of accessories of high quality: scarves in pure silk or backed with 100% cashmere, ties, ascots, boxer shorts, plaids cashmere/wool/silk.

MARCHESI DI COMO BOOTH 919

made sartorially, with attention to detail, they will portray

Manufacturer of exquisite Italian neck wear,pocket squares, scarves

the heart and soul of the man.

and dress shirts MARCHESI DI COMO is a collection with great colors, blending American preppy with Italian timeless luxury.

JANUARY 2016 MRKETNY

GALLOTTI

PAOLO ALBIZZATI

MONTALIANI

BOOTH 1143

BOOTH 909

All neckwear is exclusively made in Italy in

Today Gallotti is recognized as one of the

the factory established by Paolo Albizzati

few companies that still produces every-

and run by Albizzati family. The brand is iden-

thing in Italy, with a renewed sense of effort

tified by an elegant sense of colors, modern

to be innovative and to convey to their

proportions and research of new fabrics and

clients a sensational mix of passion, love for

techniques beyond all limits.

BOOTH 1121

“Montaliani” hand crafted made in Italy shirts. Also available are made to measure and hand made shirts as well as in Ready to Wear… totally produced in our workshop.“

the detail and handcraft.

FILIPPO DE LAURENTIIS BOOTH 1119

Filippo De Laurentiis ®, a brand that merges the elegance of classic knitwear and the high quality of the raw materials used (Cashmere, Superfine Wool, Silk, Yak, Giza Cotton) and the modern knitwear techniques such as extreme light gauge knitting.

INGRAM BOOTH 1008

One of the Italy’s finest shirt label is focused both on classic dress shirts and sport chic models with a great attention paid to details and quality. Ingram presents a wide proposal of fabrics too: cotton two plies checks and stripe patterns.

ALPETORA/G. MANZONI BOOTH 937

G. Manzoni clothing is tailored in Italy.

Using the finest fabric from the most prestigious mills in Biella including Lanificio Ermenigildo Zegna, E Thomas & Vitale Barberis Canonico. Our In stock service includes Suits Trousers Blazers and Tuxedos.

GIANNI GALLUCCI ATELIER BOOTH 1137

Gianni Gallucci with his collections has become the guardian of the traditions handed down by the craftmans shoemakers of his home region, the Marche. He started working in his family business at a very early age. Here he learned about the different shoes construction techniques which he then refined further with numerous trips to France and England. His vision of the classic taste, is expressed matching traditional and unconventional materials, suggesting an eccentric and sophisticated style, definitely aimed to people who pay attention to quality and details.

FLY3 BOOTH 1138

Fly3 seamless knits have 2 souls. The same knit

TURMS BOOTH 711

can be used in the office or in the weekend, be wa-

Turms has been producing wooden shoetrees and acces-

terproof for outdoor use or in comfort cotton for in-

sories since 1962. The wooden cases come complete with a

BRANCACCIOC

door use, be brown today and dark gray tomorrow.

range of shoe brushes, beeswax polishes and suede protec-

BOOTH 1112

tors are an ideal gift. It has been entirely handcrafted in a small

BrancaccioC is a brand of made in Italy shirts

laboratory in Montegranaro, Italy.

designed for a modern and pragmatic but also elegant man, who desires to be glamorous without giving up his own personal individuality.

SANI GUALTIERO FIRENZE

MON ART BOOTH 913

BOOTH 1117

Med-high quality accessories proudly Made in Italy. Mon Art

Small leather goods and luxury belts 100%

best sellers are cufflinks, but manufactures belts, leather

HANDMADE IN ITALY realized with precious

bracelets, pins, tie-clips. Brass, Sterling Silver and Gold 18kt.

and exotic leathers as: Crocodile, ostrich,

Sterling Silver as main character. A love story, an heritage since 18th Century. A brand name, son of the 80’s. Tradition with personality. Puccio di Piero wishes to give an elegance idea without

python, reptiles and several kinds of fishes, deer, elk, buffalo, bison, elephant and shark.

PUCCIO DI PIERO BOOTH 913

tricks, showing different sides of his beauty's

BRETELLE & BRACES

concept. Puccio di Piero's production is ab-

BOOTH 1136

solutely Made in Italy, hand-made in Tuscany.

Our collection is based on best raw materials, as 100% cachemer and real crocodile. Also, we aim to bright color, as yellow, fuxia and green. We also present our special collection for “Expo 2015 : you will find wines, oranges, peppers etc..

CIVIDINI FERRANTE BOOTH 1030

Focused on providing the customer with comfort, refinement, and elegance.

BOOTH 1020

CIVIDINI Men's knitwear is pure italian craftsmanship. CIVIDINI enjoys experimenting with special techniques such as the airbrush, hand painting, multi-material linings, and double woven sides on Cashmere, Cashmere blend or Merino superfine.

{ ROUNDTABLE }

TAILORED TRANSITIONS

Top clothing merchants discuss some big-picture changes in the suit business.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

FTER a difficult year for tailored clothing retailers who likely face a precarious year to come, MR spoke to some of the top execs in the industry about the state of suits. Here, smart merchants from Saks, Suitsupply, Bloomingdale’s, Boyds, Mitchells and Lord & Taylor share some insights.

fit. Considering recent price increases (an Italian designer sportcoat that retailed for $1,995 two years ago is $2,895 this season), I don’t see many compelling reasons for customers to buy more clothing. I’m planning conservatively, working harder than ever to find special items to play up.

K E N G USHN E R , B OY D S : Our clothing

business has been okay this season, not as bad as I’m hearing. Tailored clothing continues to drive store business, and while there’s no major change in silhouette or fit (slim has become mainstream), there are subtle shifts we can focus on. The best news D AVID F ISHER , B LOOMINGDALE ’ S : is that while we’re not going back to the Our tailored business has been good this good old days, there’s renewed interest in fall, one of our best businesses in men’s. dressing up, spearheaded by young people.

From Armani and Canali down to brands N ISH DE G RUITER , S UITSUPPLY: We’re a that target Millennials (in fit and price), 15-year-old company based in Holland; KEN GUSHNER, PRESIDENT, BOYDS we’ve found that guys are wearing suits we’ve been open in the United States less differently and we’re trying to merchanthan five years and have 17 stores with eight dise accordingly. more in the works. Our business can offer a more sustainable pricepoint D AN FARRINGTON , M ITCHELLS : At just under half of our total because we’re vertically integrated, meaning we design, manufacture and menswear volume, tailored clothing has been driving our menswear sales sell in-house. We buy our fabrics from the best Italian mills and then ship for several years now. But these past few months, clothing business has them to our factories in Europe and Asia. With no middleman, we can slowed along with everything else. I don’t know why, other than the offer value pricing (retails range from $399 for a half-canvas suit in 110s precarious state of the world and no notable change in model, fabric or or 120s fabric to $999 for top goods in a full-canvas make) without ever

How’s your clothing business doing and what changes are you making to accommodate evolving taste levels and shopping patterns?

26

MR JANUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

The suit market needs to initiate a change in model.

It’s not about customers asking for change: there are too few who notice…”

{ ROUNDTABLE }

The other plus for us is some new fits we’ve going on sale. Most of what we sell is introduced in Black Brown 1826. We’ve nested suits, with some separates in moved away from a generic slim fit and athletic fit and travel suits. Made-tohave revamped the specs; we’ve even measure ($700-$2,200, with the average named the new fits to create a lifestyle ticket at $1,450) is about 10 percent of our around each. business and online is 25 percent and GUSHNER: I know the consensus is that growing fast.

T OM O TT, S AKS F IFTH AVENUE : It’s hard we’ve gotten our mileage out of slim fit but to say how well clothing is doing now that I think there’s growth to be had. The press our menswear business is merchandised was way ahead of the consumer on this by lifestyle. We incorporate suits and trend so plenty of guys are still wearing sportcoats within both luxury and baggy suits. Sadly, I don’t see anything else advanced designer collections. We were on the horizon: I’d love it to be DBs or vests the first to do lifestyle floors so there’s no but they’re just a small part of the business. suit department per se; we don’t even have (Actually, we’d probably be selling more a suit buyer anymore! That said, the vests if it didn’t add so much to the ticket: business clearly varies by region: there’s $500-$600 in the better brands.) Fabricstill an everyday suit business in the wise, I think we can sell more seasonal Northeast and other urban areas; in the fabrics, which are definitely uptrending at South and the West, suits are far more for Boyds. And bold patterns (windowpanes, occasions. The other notable change is the plaids, color!) are also driving sales: I’d say growth in suit separates. This business was that 70 percent of suit sales and 80 percent always a challenge for us, even when it of sportcoat sales are patterned. dominated moderate department stores.

FARRINGTON: We do a little vested and a little DB business but not enough to move But it’s finally caught on in luxury, not for the needle. And after five years of evolving sizing reasons, but because customers toward slimmer fits, our customers are want the flexibility of wearing the pieces in NISH DE GRUITER, SUITSUPPLY already there. Another concern: the different ways. softcoat, unstructured and unlined, has T OM E CKRICH , L ORD & TAYLOR : We’re leveled off for us. This category is cyclical also moving toward separates. For a long time we were trying to differentiate our stores from the guys across the and until recently, it had been very strong. So for us, the solution is mall by featuring nested suits: we felt it made us more upscale and finding those special items—the travel blazer with infinite pockets, custom linings, new performance fabrics, etc. And we have a continued fashion-forward. But the customer has clearly indicated a preference for separates and the numerous options these present. So two years ago, focus on made-to-measure, which generates about 20 percent of our instead of offering a linen sportcoat in a bunch of colors, we offered pants clothing sales.

OTT: In addition to growing suit separates, we haven’t had anything new to match the more neutral shades; this past spring, eight out of 12 colors had pants to match the sportcoats. We do the same in corduroy and even in about five years. Dark dressy suits are still driving sales and our own in formalwear, which has been a huge growth area for us. We feature label continues to grow by leaps and bounds. (It’s now our number-two brand.) Our core customer, who has money, has a closet full of slim suits tuxedos in black, white and silver with black trim; all marry back to a black tuxedo pant. I’d say that 40 percent of separates sales are one jacket and needs a reason to buy more. So we’re focusing on fabric. We’re partnering with the mills to come up with special fabrics that we’re to one pant. making up in updated models. Some styles might be reinterpreted from A swing to separates is interesting, but is it enough to the archives; we did well in the late 1990s with a one-button peak lapel. drive clothing increases? Where is the growth coming But we’re sticking with modern: I don’t think guys want to go back to pleated pants. And DBs (although we bought some and sold some) are from in tailored clothing?

ECKRICH: Unfortunately, there’s no hot item or new trend, but sportcoats just too formal for today’s lifestyle. are helping. And corduroy separates, a 1970s throwback, are selling well.

DE GRUITER: I don’t understand why the industry talks about fitted suits

I don’t understand why the industry talks about fitted suits as a current trend: aren’t suits always supposed to fit?”

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2016 MR

27

{ ROUNDTABLE }

as a current trend: aren’t suits always supposed to fit? So that’s what we give our customers all the time. If you look back to the role models of the ’60s and ’70s, JFK and similar heroes, they wore suits that fit.

And since tailoring is at the heart of our business, we feature our tailors in an open area at the front and center of our selling floors. As for what’s driving sales, our Traveler suit (a deconstructed model in a wool/mohair blend that holds its shape perfectly, $599 retail) is probably our most popular item, followed by the Siena, a softshoulder style with ticket pockets (now $639 retail; it’s the suit that The Wall Street Journal ranked equal in quality to an Armani suit that sold for $3,600 when the judging was done in 2011).

FISHER: We’re very happy with our decision to lease space to Suitsupply. In fact, we’re rolling out several more Suitsupply shops this year. They offer another option to our clothing customers and while no increases these days are totally incremental, I don’t see that it’s hurting any of our other clothing brands.

In fact, with these types of concessions, the customer gets a more vertical experience: outside the department store structure, the brand has more flexibility in terms of inventory, sellers, presentation, etc.

interest in made in America.

ECKRICH: Our suits go out the door at an average of $300, so we’re not making much in Italy and our customers don’t seem concerned about where the suits are produced. That said, we just introduced (Italian brand) Eleventy in our NYC flagship and we’re looking to cultivate that customer. And Hugo Boss (not Italian) is a major player in key doors ($895 ticket, aggressively promoted at $595).

OTT: Our customers do care and Italy is key.

Our guys appreciate the exceptional make and sense of style that Italian fashion delivers. And with the current exchange rate, prices are getting better. For spring ‘16, five of our luxury makers have dropped prices so that suggested retails will be 15 percent lower than last year.

We spend too much time talking about the rules around tailored clothing when we should just throw away the book and create new rules.”

DE GRUITER: Our customers never question country of origin. They appreciate proper fit and an eye for detail. You can buy a designer suit at any price but if it doesn’t fit well or the person who sells it to you doesn’t know how to fit it, it still doesn’t look good.

GUSHNER: I’ve always been a proponent of Italian fashion and quality, so we carry all the top Italian brands and sell a lot of $3,000 suits. That said, our top-selling brand is our own Trussini label (Italian fabric and Italian make at $1,295 for suits; $995 for sportcoats).

FARRINGTON: At the high end, it’s still all about Italy, which probably generates 80 percent of our clothing sales. Recently, there’s been some

MR JANUARY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

GRUITER: Year-round fabrics still dominate but we’re adding more seasonal blends: wool/alpaca, linen/wool/silk and more fashionable fabrics.

FARRINGTON: We’re adding more seasonal

DE

TOM ECKRICH, EVP, HUDSON’S BAY/LORD & TAYLOR

It’s clear that Suitsupply has created an innovative business model based on value, service and lifestyle, but we have to believe some guys still want designer brands and Italian sourcing. Is country of origin a factor with your customers?

28

To what extent are seasonless fabrics still dominating the mix?

fabrics: linens, cottons, flannels. When you think about it, seasonless fabrics are never quite right: they’re too light in winter and too heavy in summer. So we’re trying to teach our customers to dress for the season, which would be great for business if we’re successful.

OTT: Year-round fabrics do well because so many guys travel and the performance fabrics are year-round weights. Plus it’s risky to bring in heavier weights for fall. We can’t count on the weather; this past December it was in the 60s in NYC! For spring ’16, however, we’re showing more cottons and linens that lend themselves to casual dressing.

Should tailored clothing be merchandised with sportswear on the selling floor?

GUSHNER: For us, lifestyle merchandising makes no sense: we have sellers who can bring customers a knit vest to work with a certain suit.

We don’t need a mixed-up selling floor.

F ISHER : I believe retailers need to be cognizant of new ways to wear tailored clothing and suggestive selling is an important part of this. Suits

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{ ROUNDTABLE }

are being worn more casually, so it’s important for sellers to suggest the knit merino vest or the pocket square or the puffer vest worn over or under the suit jacket. And these new types of combinations allow customers to personalize their look, which is what guys want today.

Clearly, we’re seeing more sportswear brands adding tailored pieces to their mix.

For customers who shop by specific designer or brand, this lifestyle approach makes sense. But for Bloomingdale’s, as a department store, we still need a separate department for tailored clothing. We still have customers who come in to buy a suit.

ECKRICH: I agree, but we’re looking to our brands to help us pull looks together across multiple licenses. Although department stores are merchandised by department, we can do a better job cross-merchandising via strong visuals, more mannequins and aggressive marketing.

To what extent are you getting younger guys into your stores?

but the ambiance, the marketing, the sellers and the buyers. We’re on the verge of a major remodel to begin in June. We’re remerchandising the store, updating the message, hiring young people in buying and selling and doing the same in women’s, which we’re moving to the main floor. It’s only 20 percent of the business; we think it should be at 40 to 50 percent.

GRUITER: You can’t put an age to our customer: we have guys coming in for their first suit and guys who know suits very well.

We have a well educated customer who does research online or gets referred by colleagues or friends.

FISHER: I would estimate that in our Suitsupply shop, 60 to 65 percent of the customers are under age 35.

DE

We were the first to do lifestyle floors so there’s no suit department per se; we don’t even have a suit buyer anymore!”

Can I ask each of you about tailored clothing’s future?

GRUITER: Our online business is our number-one door and I believe that’s the future, especially once the customer knows his size. Our site is easy to navigate; it explains the suit’s fit and how to wear it.

Suits are shipped on hangers in a beautiful box, with overnight and same-day delivery options in bigger markets.

GUSHNER: Sportswear has clearly peaked, so

DE

ECKRICH: I think younger guys are shopping the vertical stores and online. So we’re aggressively going after them by offering more contemporary styles at more TOM OTT, EVP, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE affordable pricepoints. Not too long ago, we sold nothing but all-wool suits; today, I think tailored will continue to improve, we feature more affordable blends (poly/wool, poly/viscose) in modern assuming the product is compelling. styles that look great and price out well for young guys, who are not all F ISHER : I predict continued casualization of the clothing business and that interested in “investment dressing”. We’re also doing more marketing the growing importance of comfort. via social media. Since Lord & Taylor is not the first name that comes to FARRINGTON : Although our expectations are a bit lower (I’m planning mind when it comes to young men’s suits, we’re hoping to change that. flat to five percent gains), I have to be optimistic. Our trunk shows used FARRINGTON: We have a several brands geared to Millennials: Boss in a to be promotional (customers could save a couple of hundred bucks on a few doors, Samuelsohn (not just a youthful model but also a value good suit) but we’ve pulled back on promotions, relying instead on new pricepoint) and softcoats from Boglioli and Cucinelli. We’re fortunate to and exciting product. If we show enough newness, this strategy should live in an area where young does not necessarily mean poor. drive both sales and profits.

OTT: We get a lot of younger guys at our music and sports events, like the OTT: Tailored clothing will be back in a new and different way within the charity fashion show we just did with the New York Jets (40 percent next two years. Although recent business has been a bit tough, it will grow clothing, 60 percent sportswear). We’re also doing a lot on Instagram, and like gangbusters as soon as we find that new focus. we’re adding more tailored pieces online. These offerings are a little ECKRICH: Tailored clothing continues to evolve as customers look to us to younger and more fashionable than in-store, and a little lower priced. define a lifestyle. We spend too much time talking about the rules around (True luxury clothing is mostly an in-store business.) tailored clothing when we should just throw away the book and create GUSHNER: I believe stores have got to get younger: not just the product new rules.

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COASTAL COOL With its roots in the preppy style of the northeastern Ivy League, a broader ‘coastal’ trend is sweeping the nation.

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY

T

he lifestyle associated with coastal living is a stylish one: boats and summer beach houses, and for younger customers, spring breaks and summer pool parties. The spending power of college kids in America is estimated at $117 billion by College Explorer, and the influence they have on trends in every sector is significant. With the prep trends of the Northeast spreading like wildfire throughout the South and Midwest, brands like Southern Tide, Vineyard Vines and Southern Proper have brought their interpretation of “coastal cool” to the major colleges of the South, enlisting the most popular students as brand ambassadors to promote their products. Not surprisingly, specialty retailers like Onward Reserve, Hinton & Hinton and Nic’s Toggery are doing huge business in college towns across the country. But it isn’t just college kids who are embracing the coastal look.

“Brands like Ralph Lauren and Peter Millar resonate with both 50-plus as well as younger consumers,” says Dan Farrington of Mitchells. “Vineyard Vines helped bring preppy to a new generation, but older customers are buying that too, and we’ve done well with Faherty and Tailor Vintage, both preppy and appealing to all ages.”

Pelican Coast pants

Smathers and Branson flask

Vineyard Vines plaid shirt

Sandast vintage weekender Nautica woven belt

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SURVIVALON® ALL COTTON JACKETS.

BREATHEABLE WINDPROOF WATER REPELLENT

Survivalon LLC | 51 Forest Avenue, Unit 5 | Old Greenwich, CT 06870 | 203-698-1503 betsy.survivalon@gmail.com | Survivalon-LLC.com

{ COASTAL COOL } Lee Allison tie

Barbour Reelin rain coat

Collard Greens bow tie

Southern Proper quarter-zip sweater

Sperry x Quoddy boots

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Johnnie-O polo shirt

southernproper.com

VITALE BARBERIS CANONICO SUPER 150’S WOOL WOVEN IN BIELLA, ITALY

CUSTOM CRIMSON BEMBERG LINING

THE BEST NAVY BLAZERS IN AMERICA OUR LIMITED EDITION BLAZER IS THE MOST EXCLUSIVE BLAZER MADE IN OUR 135-YEAR HISTORY. We committed to making the best navy blazer in America, we didn’t make just one we made two! With exquisite Vitale Barberis Canonico Super 150’s wool fabric, this is a blazer made for the true connoisseur. With custom Bemberg lining emblazoned with the Hardwick logo, this garment is truly a “Pick of Dixie”. Every detail has been designed, right down to the gold-shanked buttons that match a Rolex® Yacht-Master. This fine navy blazer won in the style category for the Garden & Gun Made in the South Awards.

{ FASHION }

SUIT YOURSELF As the clothing climate continues its drift from the traditional, interpreting tailored clothing for an increasingly casual customer is key.

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY Once upon a time, the suit was a uniform. If you had a big personality and wanted to express it, you bought a brightly colored tie, pink with little elephants, or something of the sort. But your suit was not dissimilar from the other suits in the city: you didn’t suit yourself, your local suit store did.

Today, the continued march away from mandatory work-week attire, coupled with the ultraindividuality of a selfie-snapping generation that’s more self-centered than ever, is having a profound effect on suiting. Guys aren’t buying nested suits like they used to, but they are buying separates. These pieces can be incorporated more creatively into outfits where comfort and casual cool are balanced carefully with the desire to appear well dressed for any cell phone cameras that might be clicking.

“At retail, a more creative approach is key,” explains Michael Fisher, creative director, men’s and lifestyle/culture at trend forecasting company Fashion Snoops. “Most younger consumers are looking for expressive ways of adding value to their suiting purchases. More than ever before, the separate is key due to the consumer wanting the freedom to mix and match according to his needs.”

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director at Bergdorf Goodman, agrees that merchandising these pieces properly is vital. “At Goodman's, we are always trying to best ourselves in the way we merchandise and represent all of our collections, including tailoring,” he says. “We continuously analyze and evolve our presentations throughout the store, an important way to visually inform our customer, increasing his product and styling awareness.”

As lines between formal and casual continue to shift, clothing appears in more unexpected markets. “Tailoring doesn’t sit in its own corner in the same way it used to,” says WGSN men’s director Volker Ketteniss. “We’re seeing a blending between tailoring and sportswear, tailoring and activewear, and tailoring and streetwear.”

At least that’s true for now. “This stuff is always cyclical,” says Brian Trunzo, co-founder of Carson Street Clothiers. “We’ll see the casualization of clothing continue for the time being, but at some point people will want to dress up again.”

“Tailoring doesn’t sit in its own corner in the same way it used to.”

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y G R E G S WA L E S S H O T AT G U R N E Y ’ S M O N TA U K R E S O R T

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THIS PAGE, LEFT: Valentino COAT; Luigi Bianchi Mantova JACKET; Ravazzolo SHIRT; David Yurman NECKLACES. RIGHT: Sartoria Partenopea COAT; Sand Copenhagen JACKET; Phillip Plein SHIRT; Z Zegna PANTS, SCARF; David Yurman CUFF. OPPOSITE PAGE: Tallia Orange COAT, SUIT; L.B.M. 1911 VEST; Santoni BOOTS; Stetson HAT; Cristalle Laurel SCARF; J. W. Cooper BELT; David Yurman WATCH; Pamela Love JEWELRY.

Craig Green; Vince SHOES.

THIS PAGE, TOP: Massimo Piombo COAT; Ravazzolo JACKET; Cesarani CARDIGAN; Seven For All Mankind SHIRT; Nautica PANTS; Pamela Love JEWELRY; David Yurman WATCH. BOTTOM: Tallia Orange COAT, JACKET; L.B.M. 1911 VEST; Cristalle Laurel SCARF; David Yurman WATCH, JEWELRY. OPPOSITE PAGE: Luigi Bianchi Mantova JACKET; MAC Jeans DENIM JACKET; Sand Copenhagen SHIRT; Eleventy SCARF, NECKLACE; Roda POCKET SQUARE; David Yurman RINGS, BRACELETS; Stetson HAT; Baume & Mercier WATCH.

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2016 MR

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THIS PAGE, LEFT: David Hart COAT, SHIRT; Eleventy VEST, BELT; Caruso PANTS; Pamela Love NECKLACE. RIGHT: Ermenegildo Zegna JACKET; Massimo Piombo VEST; Calvin Klein SHIRT; Etro PANTS; Caruso HAT; Todd Snyder TIE; Tateossian BRACELETS; Armstrong & Wilson POCKET SQUARE; J. W. Cooper BELT. OPPOSITE PAGE: Massimo Piombo COAT; Sand Copenhagen TRENCH; Tallia Orange JACKET; Woolrich SCARF; Z Zegna NECKERCHIEF; Etro PANTS; David Yurman JEWELRY; L.B.M. 1911 BRIEFCASE.

MR-Mag.com | JANUARY 2016 MR

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HARDY MINNIS SUPER 150’S WOOL WOVEN IN HUDDERSFIELD, ENGLAND

CUSTOM ROYAL PURPLE BEMBERG LINING

THE BEST NAVY BLAZERS IN AMERICA OUR LIMITED EDITION BLAZER IS THE MOST LUXURIOUS BLAZER MADE IN OUR 135-YEAR HISTORY. We committed to making the best navy blazer in America, we didn’t make just one we made two! Super 150’s Hardy Minnis fabric woven in Huddersfield, England. Carrying the royal warrant of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for Hardwick, this blazer features imported Bemberg lining emblazoned with the Hardwick logo and gold-shanked buttons matching a gold Rolex® Yacht-Master.

#INTHEMRKET

A GUIDE TO THE INDUSTRY’S LEADING MENSWEAR SHOW N E W

Y O R K

J A N U A R Y

2 4 - 2 6 ,

2 0 1 6

J A V I T S

C E N T E R

JANUARY 24-26, 2016 MRKET NEW YORK

E X H I B I T O R S

BEST IN SHOW THE EXHIBITOR LISTING

Welcome to the January 2016 edition of MRket, the industry’s premier menswear trade show. With more than 360 exhibitors this year and a slew of changes and additions–including the debut of this re-designed show guide. This edition is the largest show ever and marks a new beginning and look for MRket. With each vendor a true leader in its area of specialty, MRket New York can’t be missed.

070/Landi Alan Paine Knitwear Alden Alessandro Gherardi Alessandrosimoni Alex Cannon Alpetora/G. Manzoni Alstad * Andrew Fezza Andrew Marc Clothing Andrew-J Shirts Anglo Union Anthony Miles * Araldi 1930 Arcuri Ties Aristo 18 Sportswear Aston Leather Athletic Recon * Austen Heller * Austin Reed Baade II, Ltd. Bacco Bucci Bagnoli Sartoria Napoli Barbour Classic Barbour International Barnaby Silks Baroni Couture/Prive/Maxdavoli/Trend Beaumont & James Belford Men Belts + di Piazza Stefano Benson * Bentley Cravats Corp Bertigo Bird Dog Bay The Bird Dog Group Blanqazul Blue Blujacket BMG Imports Inc. Boat 54 BOGA Bogner Borgo 28 * Brackish * Braemore Neckwear Brancaccioc.

Brandblack * Brandolini Brandolini Boys Bresciani 1970 Bretelle & Braces Breuer Sas Brian Toohey The British Apparel Collection Ltd. Bruno Piatelli C89 * Calabrese 1924 Calvin Klein Clothing Camp Hero * Campobello Canaletto Capri *

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Cardinal of Canada * Carlo Lusso Carlos Cordoba Carlos Santos Castaway-Nantucket Island Cerutti 1881 * Cervo-Barbisio Chelsey Imports Chiari Christopher Lena Chrysalis City Sport * Cividini Cockpit USA * Codis Maya Ltd Collared Greens Collection LaMarque Cooper Jones Supply * Corgi Corrente Cotton Brothers Croclux Crombie * Cutter & Buck D'Ruggiero Dal Dosso Dalmine 1952 Davek Accessories Dents Heritage Collection Di Bello by Nipal Dino Bigioni Dion DKNY Dobb's Hats & Caps Dolcepunta Drake's Dubarry of Ireland Duck Head/Crittenden/Gyde Duncan Walton Edward Armah Edward Green Empire Clothing Engineered For Motion * English Laundry English Utopia Enzo Tovare Equilibrio Euro Fashions Europerfumes Eyebobs LLC Eysom * F.H. Wadsworth Faber-Castell Design Fairway & Greene Fefe Glamour Pochette Fellows United Ferrante Fertini Filippo De Laurentiis Fly3 Flynt Fox Umbrellas

The Fragrance Group Gallia Gallotti Geoff Nicholson Germano Giangi Gianni Gallucci Atelier Gianni Marcelo Gimo's Gionfriddo Giorgio Fiorelli GiosBrun Roma Parioli Gitman Bros GJ Cahn Bow Ties GJ Cahn Scarfs Global Mint Graf von Faber-Castell Grenfell Gruppo Bravo Halsey * Harley of Scotland Hastego * Highland Shoe Company Hilts Willard Classic Styled Dress & Casual Gloves HiSO Hogarth * Holebrook Sweden Hommard * Hook + Albert * I.C. Richard Choi * Ibiza iDesign Ike Behar Neckwear Ike Behar Tailored Impulso Ingram Inpore International Laundry Ireland's Eye Italo Ferretti ItalUomo Italwear/A. Bossi J.M. Dickens J.S. Blank & Co/Barbara Blank Jack Victor Jacob Miller James Tattersall Jan Leslie/Linkup/MaxReed Jared Lang Jimmy Sales Neckwear/Bruno Piattelli Neckwear John H. Daniel Custom Tailors Johnnie O Johnstons of Elgin Jose Real Joseph Cheaney & Sons KHH Men Kiff Kiff * Kinross Cashmere Korchmar * Kuehnert Inc. L'Abate Rosso Lanai Collection Lanvin * Lauren Ralph Lauren Lazyjack Press Ledbury * Lee Allison Left Coast Tee Lejon Leo Chevalier Leopoldo Cashmere Lipson Shirtmakers Lloyd Shoes Loft 604/Cesarani * London Fog Lone Pine Leathers Loominus Woodstock Lorenzoni Luchiano Visconti Luchiano Visconti Boys Luciano Bardelli Luciano Moresco

MRKET NEW YORK JANUARY 24-26, 2016 LV Black M-Clip Maceoo Madison Creek Outfitters Magee Majestic International Maker and Company Mantoni Marc Marcs Socks Marcello Sport Marchesi Di Como Marco Valentino Margo Petitti * Mario Latorre Bags Mark/Giusti * Massimiliano Stanco Masterclass Apparel * Matt Totillo * Mayser Headwear Meyer * Mezlan Michael Kors Michael Kors Collection Dress Shirts and Neckwear Michael Zechbauer Miguel Bellido Milano140 Minerals * Missani Le Collezioni Misternic Cashmere Mitchell Evan * Mizzen + Main * MMX * Mobile Bay Modena Mon Art Montaliani Montechiaro Mora Nat Nast Luxury Originals Nicole Miller Nigel Knox Nifty Socks Nikky Nina Ricci * Northern Cobbler * Norwegian Wool * Olimpo Over Under Clothing Overton Pacific Silk Pantherella Paolo Albizzati Paraboot Paul Betenly Clothing Peerless Boys Peerless Clothing USA, Inc. Pelican Coast Clothing Penrose London Per-Pedes Peru Unlimited Peruvianni Peter Barton/The Dunlap Weavers Peter-Blair Accessories Private Stock Neckwear Proper Shirtings Prossimo Jack Victor * Puccio Di Piero Punto Socks PVH/Insigina Design Quieti Raffi Rancourt & Co. Shoecrafter * Regency by LaMarque Remo Tulliani Remy Renco Big and Tall Reporter Res Ipsa * Rhone * Richard James Ring Jacket * Riviera Red Robert Graham Hosiery Robert Graham Tailored Clothing

Robert Keyte Silks Ron White Rowdy Gentleman S. Cohen Inc. Sailors & Brides * Sani Gualtiero Firenze Sanyo New York Save the Duck * Saxx Underwear Schneiders Salzburg Scott & Charters Scott Barber Scott Nichol Sean John Seaward + Stearn London Sebastien James Collection Shaquille O'Neal Silvio Fiorello Simon Carter Simpson London Sinclair Smathers and Branson Southern Marsh Collection Southern Proper Southern Shirt Southern Tide Southwick St. Croix Collections and Heritage by St. Croix State Traditions Stetson Hats Studio by International Laundry Survivalon T by Trands Taccaliti Shirts Tailor Vintage Tallia Orange Tallia Orange Hosiery Tardia Tateossian Ltd. Ted Baker London * Ted Baker Neckwear Teleria Zed Thaddeus Thompson Tiger Mountain Tiglio Inc. Tiglio Luxe Todd Snyder Dress Shirts and Neckwear Tommy Bahama Leather Goods Tori Richard, Ltd. Torino Torras Toscano Trafalgar True Grit Truefitt & Hill * Tumi Outerwear * Turk & Fillmore London * Turms * Turq Ugo Vasare Umberto Vallati Versace 19.69 Abbigliamento Sportivo Srl Villa Delmitia Vineyard Vines Visconti Black Vitaliano Viyella Wigens William Lockie Without Prejudice * Wm. Lamb & Son Wood Underwear * Xpooos Socks ZB Savoy Bowtie Co * Zenio Slims Zero Restriction

E X H I B I T O R S

ACTIVATIONS

Southern Proper and Smathers & Branson will host a cocktail reception on Sunday, January 24th from 4–5pm to commemorate 10 years of business for both companies and to celebrate the next 10 years of business. The reception will be held in the Modern Prep Lounge on the show floor and will serve a complimentary camping themed cocktail. Come celebrate this notable milestone!

Perfect for your retail store or your personal coffee table, publishing house, Glitterati will feature covetable books and collector’s editions - all available for purchase at The Book Club located in the MRket Café.

Check it out!

* Vanguards Gallery Exhibitors # INTHEMRKET

MRKETSHOW.COM

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JANUARY 24-26, 2016 MRKET NEW YORK

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&

N O W

NEW & NOW MRket springs forward with a fresh new look, fantastic first-time exhibitors, the debut of a special section devoted to au courant activewear and the launch of dynamic live-model presentations on the show floor….

A N E L E VATED E NVIRO NM ENT The MRket show floor was completely made over this season and our new booths reflect the best of contemporary visual display with their clean, streamlined aesthetic that’s created from raw industrial steel, natural pale wood grain, crisp white fabric walls and a chic and masculine charcoal flooring. Meant to showcase product in the best possible light by a first-class firm in Italy, the epicenter of innovative visual presentation. Functional and beautiful, these new display spaces truly epitomize effective, modern merchandising.

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MRKET NEW YORK JANUARY 24-26, 2016

N E W

&

N O W

Alstad Anglo Union Athletic Recon Austin Reed Barnaby Silks Beaumont & James Blujacket Bogner Be sure to check out the following 50+ exhibitors Brackish that are making their MRket debut this season Brandblack Brian Toohey Bruno Piatelli Carlo Lusso BOGNER Cerutti 1881 Established more than 80 City Sport years ago in Germany by Cividini professional skier Willy Cockpit USA Bogner, Bogner is a beloved Crombie and lauded international Dal Dosso outerwear and lifestyle Dubarry of Ireland brand whose roots lie firmly Engineered For Motion in snow sports. Known for Eysom its top-quality designs that F.H. Wadsworth effortlessly combine heritage Fellows United and modernity, this European Giangi export is a welcome addition Gianni Gallucci Atelier to the American market.

Giorgio Fiorelli Grenfell Hilts Willard Classic Styled Dress & Casual Gloves Hogarth Inpore CROMBIE Jacob Miller KHH Men One of Britain’s oldest clothing L'Abate Rosso brands, Crombie now boasts an Lanvin enviable and rich 210-year-old history.

Leopoldo Cashmere Its high-end apparel and accessories Magee are globally famous and its threeMario Latorre Bags quarter length wool coats are iconic Masterclass Apparel wardrobe essentials.

Milano140 Mitchell Evan Mobile Bay Nina Ricci Norwegian Wool Puccio Di Piero Rancourt & Co. Shoecrafter Rhone Robert Keyte Silks Ron White Sailors & Brides Scott Barber RHONE Shaquille O'Neal Simpson London Made for men yet fit for kings, Rhone has Teleria Zed emerged as a powerful rising star in the Tumi Outerwear sportswear, activewear and fitness category.

Turk & Fillmore London Employing premium, technically advanced Turms fabrics, Rhone designs also stand out thanks to Turq their amazing functional details.

Ugo Vasare Versace 19.69 Abbigliamento Sportivo Srl Zenio Slims

PREMIERES

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MOVE

BRANDBLACK

The winning lineup in Vanguards Gallery’s new MOVE area proves that athletics and aesthetics can—and do—go hand in hand.

PE AK P E R F O R M A N C E MOVE is MRket’s brand new section that reflects the modern, active lifestyle’s ongoing merger with sartorial style. An area of Vanguards Gallery presented in partnership with the Equinox fitness and wellness brand, MOVE champions the red-hot athletic tailoring trend (aka athleisure) with a handpicked selection of labels that are guaranteed to increase your store’s fitness-obsessed fan base. Its starting lineup includes rising fashion all-stars Eysom, Mizzen & Main, Rhone, Masterclass Apparel, Engineered For Motion, Athletic Recon, Equinox and Brandblack, among others.

EYSOM

MASTERCLASS APPAREL

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MRKET NEW YORK JANUARY 24-26, 2016

N E W

&

N O W

RHONE

MIZZEN + MAIN

ATHLETIC RECON

ENGINEERED FOR MOTION

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MRKETSHOW.COM

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MODEL BEHAVIOR It’s an undisputable fact that clothes look

ENGINEERED FOR MOTION

better on actual human bodies versus hangers or shelves. With that in mind, MRket is pleased to feature a series of 45-minute live-model presentations during its three-day run. These demonstrations will showcase the new Barbour collection, the best of the Made In Italy section and top stylist picks from MOVE, the just launched Vanguards Gallery sub-section devoted to active and performance tailoring.

BARBOUR

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CADET

MRKET NEW YORK JANUARY 24-26, 2016

M U S T

S E E S

MRKET MUST-SEES Once again, these special sections of the show are not to be missed. With a focus on international trade and cutting-edge quality, MRket brings together the world’s finest menswear brands.

MADE IN ITALY

Regret that you didn’t make it to Florence this season?

Snap out of it! There’s no need to be there since our highly lauded Made in Italy section has returned to once prove that Italian menswear is indeed bellissimo and some of the finest in the world. With more than 60 brands, this season marks our largest gathering of Italian exports. Be sure to check out the high-quality, worldrenowned Italian craftsmanship and seemingly effortless style from the following exhibitors:

070 Studio-Landi Alessandro Gherardi Alessandrosimoni Alpetora/G. Manzoni Araldi 1930 Arcuri Ties Bagnoli Sartoria Napoli Belts + di Piazza Stefano Brancaccioc.

Bresciani 1970 Bretelle & Braces Calabrese 1924 Capri Cervo-Barbisio Cividini Croclux Dal Dosso Dalmine 1952 Di Bello by Nipal Dino Bigioni Dolcepunta Ferrante Filippo De Laurentiis Fly3 Gallia Gallotti Germano Giangi Gianni Gallucci Atelier Gimo’s

GiosBrun Roma Parioli Impulso Ingram Italo Ferretti Italwear/A. Bossi L’Abate Rosso Leopoldo Cashmere Lorenzoni Luciano Moresco Marchesi Di Como Massimiliano Stanco Milano140 Mon Art Montaliani Montechiaro Mora Paolo Albizzati Puccio Di Piero Renco Big and Tall Reporter Sani Gualtiero Firenze Silvio Fiorello Sinclair Taccaliti Shirts Tardia Teleria Zed Turms Umberto Vallati Villa Delmitia Vitaliano

BRITS IN NY It has given us Beau Brummel, Savile Row, the Windsor knot and forceful fashion tribes that range from the Teddies and Mods to the New Romantics.

Clearly, Britain has reigned – and continues to reign – as a highly important nation when it comes to designing and producing menswear. To exalt its ongoing influence in the sector and celebrate all of our exhibitors across the pond, MRket again presents Brits in NY (formerly UK Design). The largest gathering yet, this section spans heritage names to up-and-coming ones and is a don’t-miss in order to please your dandified and contemporary customers. So pop ’round and say “Cheerio” to the following brands:

Alan Paine Knitwear Anglo Union Anthony Miles Barbour Classic Barbour International Beaumont & James Chrysalis Codis Maya Ltd Corgi Dents Heritage Collection Drake’s Edward Green Fox Umbrellas Grenfell Harley of Scotland Ireland’s Eye J.M. Dickens Johnstons of Elgin

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Leo Chevalier Nigel Knox Nifty Socks Northern Cobbler Pantherella Penrose London Richard James Robert Keyte Silks Scott & Charters Scott Nichol Seaward + Stearn London Simon Carter Simpson London Tateossian Ltd. Thompson Turks & Fillmore London Viyella William Lockie

MRKETSHOW.COM

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JANUARY 24-26, 2016 MRKET NEW YORK

M U S T

S E E S

Paging Binky, Chip and Preston It’s as perennial as Princeton, as timeless

stylistic metamorphosis. Modern Prep’s

as tennis and as classic as a Cadillac:

approximately 25 top-drawer brands are

The preppy look is clearly an established

sure to knock your socks off (so be sure to

menswear staple. But much like Nantucket

bring a pair of sockless-appropriate boat

getting wired for WiFi and country clubs

shoes) with super-smart shirts and slacks,

dropping their “must be fourth-generation

awe-inspiring

at a minimum” membership requirements,

bathing suits and other Wharton-worthy

preppy style has had to evolve with the

wares. Verified members in this exclusive

times. Thus the Modern Prep section

enclave include:

argyles,

boldly

colored

returns to MRket to celebrate this genre’s Bird Dog Bay Castaway-Nantucket Island Collared Greens Cotton Brothers Holebrook Sweden Jacob Miller Johnnie O Lazyjack Press Madison Creek Outfitters

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Mobile Bay Over Under Clothing Overton Pelican Coast Clothing Peter-Blair Accessories Rowdy Gentleman Smathers and Branson Southern Marsh Collection Southern Proper

Southern Shirt Southern Tide State Traditions Tailor Vintage Tiger Mountain Vineyard Vines Wm. Lamb & Son

MRKET NEW YORK JANUARY 24-26, 2016

M U S T

S E E S

IF THE SHOE

FITS

The Shoe Game is afoot this season for the first time! You’ll find fantastic footwear from the following brands at MRket NY.

RES IPSA

Alden Anthony Miles Araldi Austen Heller Bacco Bucci Brandblack Campobello Carlos Santos Cheaney Corrente Dino Bigioni Edward Green Fertini Gianni Gallucci Atelier Highland Shoe Company Jose Real Lloyd Shoes Massmiliano Stanco Mezlan Milano140 Northern Cobbler Paraboot Rancourt & Co. Shoecrafter Res Ipsa Ron White Turk & Fillmore London Ugo Vasare

UGO VASARE

BRANDBLACK

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MRKETSHOW.COM

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JANUARY 24-26, 2016 MRKET NEW YORK

V A N G U A R D S

G A L L E R Y ALSTAD

vanguard: the group of people who are the leaders of an action or movement in society, politics, art, etc.

Merriam-Webster Dictionary

KORCHMAR

A few years ago, Vanguards Gallery debuted as a space to feature burgeoning brands but like MRket

HOGARTH

itself, it has since evolved into a stronger, somewhat different

MITCHELL EVAN

animal. That said, it

CARDINAL OF CANADA

is still aptly named.

RING JACKET

Curated by MRket’s resident menswear maven Michael Macko, Vanguards Gallery now features unexpected upand-comers alongside more established collections that are propelling menswear

BENSON

into its next (and thus far best-ever) incarnation.

NORWEGIAN WOOL

TUMI OUTERWEAR

Visit Vanguards to get a glimpse of tomorrow… today.

NORTHERN COBBLER LEDBURY

LANVIN

NDON

MORE LO

LL TURK & FI

ANTHONY MILES

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MRKET NEW YORK JANUARY 24-26, 2016

V A N G U A R D S

G A L L E R Y

CITY SPORT

MARK / GIUSTI

HOMMARD

SAILORS & BRIDES AUSTEN HELLER

MATT TOTILLO

TURMS COCKPIT USA

PROSSIMO JACK VICTOR

HOOK + ALBERT TRUEFITT & HILL

NI

LOFT 604 / CESARA

HALSEY

HASTEGO

C89

RANCOURT & CO. SHOECRAFTER

WOOD UNDERWEAR

# INTHEMRKET

MRKETSHOW.COM

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JANUARY 24-26, 2016 MRKET NEW YORK

P H O T O

S H O P

Whether you’re looking for trends or specific items, the following pages will help fine-tune your buying.

COUNTRY CHIC To the manor worn… The aristocratic countryside continues its reign as a key inspiration for modern menswear.

BAGNOLI SARTORIA NAPOLI HARLEY OF SCOTLAND ANGLO UNION

CHRYSALIS

PAUL BETENLEY

SCOTT & CHARTERS

OLIMPO CORRENTE

MARIO LATORRE BAGS

GERMANO

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MRKET NEW YORK JANUARY 24-26, 2016

P H O T O

S H O P

MAGEE

CHELSEY IMPORTS

TORRAS JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN SCOTT NICHOL

BRESCIANI

WIGENS

ENGLISH UTOPIA

VERSACE 19.96 ABBIGLIAMENTO SPORTIVO SRL

REPORTER

PANTHERELLA

# INTHEMRKET

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JANUARY 24-26, 2016 MRKET NEW YORK

P H O T O

S H O P EYEBOBS LLC

WORKING MAN Today’s sharp office-appropriate attire and accessories are anything but working-class.

DRAKE’S

BOGA

ANDREW FEZZA

GIANGI

ANDREW MARC CLOTHING

CALABRESE 1924 NICOLE MILLER

CROCLUX

STETSON HATS

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P H O T O

S H O P

ARCURI TIES JACK VICTOR MASSIMILIANO STANCO

DENTS HERITAGE COLLECTION

LAUREN RALPH LAUREN

BEAUMONT & JAMES

ENGLISH LAUNDRY

S. COHEN INC.

L’ABATE ROSSO

FOX UMBRELLAS

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JANUARY 24-26, 2016 MRKET NEW YORK

P H O T O

S H O P

BLACK & WHITE

ARALDI 1930

A hint of ‘90s-inspired color-free minimalism is in the air for winter. So be sure to buy some black and white.

FERRANTE ITALO FERRETTI

MAJESTIC INTERNATIONAL

OHEY BRIAN TO

GALLIA

MAYSER HEADWEAR

CALVIN KLEIN CLOTHING

UMBERTO VALLATI

KEUHNERT INC.

GIMO’S

ZERO RESTRICTION

GIANNI GALLUCCI

HiSO

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P H O T O ALESSANDRO GHERARDI

S H O P LORENZONI

DKNY

TELERIA ZED

PEERLESS BOYS

DINO BIGIONI

PUCCIO DI PIE RO SIMPSON LONDON

TIGLIO INC.

T H E N E W F O R M A L

Despite conventional wisdom, all men’s evening looks are not created equal.

Dapper gents will be red carpet–ready in array of modern tuxes and eyecatching cummerbunds, bow ties, cufflinks and other accessories.

GIOSBRUN ROMA PARIOLI

BRACKISH

TALLIA ORANGE

JOHN H. DANIEL CUSTOM TAILORS

MON ART

MONTALIANI

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JANUARY 24-26, 2016 MRKET NEW YORK

P H O T O

S H O P

BUTTON-UP

Whether woven, printed or pique, the new fall shirts will put any man on top.

COOPER JONES SUPPLY

INGRAM

MACEEO

BERTIGO

SCOTT BARBER TACCALITI SHIRTS

JAMES TATTERSALL

GLOBAL MINT

LEO CHEVALIER

ITALWEAR/A.BOSSI

TORI RICHARD, LTD

BRANCACCIO C. LUCHIANO VISCONTI BOYS

VISCONTI BLACK

BRANDOLINI BOYS ANDREW J. SHIRTS

iDESIGN SOUTHERN PROPER SOUTHERN SHIRT

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P H O T O Keep your customer warm with an array of outstanding outerwear.

S H O P

A FRESH COAT

LONE PINE LEATHERS SANYO NEW YORK

RENCO BIG & TALL

DAL DOSSO

BARBOUR CLASSIC TARDIA

SCHNEIDERS SALZBURG

070 STUDIO-LANDI

REGENCY BY LAMARQUE

SINCLAIR GRENFELL

SURVIVALON

CROMBIE

DI BELLO

BY NIPAL

ASTON LEATHER

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P H O T O

S H O P

PACIFIC SILK

FINISHING DETAIL Complete your outfit–and your buy–with fantastic furnishings and awesome accessories.

DOLCEPUNTA

CERVO-BARBISIO

BRETELL BRACES

DUNCAN WALTON

J.M. DICKENS JAN LESLIE

ROBERT KEYTE SILKS

LAZYJACK PRESS

GJ CHAN SCARVES

PER PEDES

STEFANO BELTS + DI PIAZZA

DOBB’S HATS

BARNABY SILKS

VITALIANO KHH MEN

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P H O T O

S H O P

PENROSE LONDON STATE TRADITIONS

GEOFF NICHOLSON PAOLO ALBIZZATI

CODIS MAYA

PRIVATE STOCK NECKWEAR

PUNTO SOCKS MICHAEL ZECHBAUER

MARCO VALENTINO

CORGI

THE BRITISH APPAREL COLLECTION LTD.

GJ CHAN BOWTIES

SIMON CARTER

MARC MARCS SOCKS SILVIO FIORELLO

XPOOS SOCKS

LEJON

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P H O T O

S H O P ALAN PAINE KNITWEAR

WARM & COZY

MONTECHIARO

Need notable knits? These exhibitors have got you covered.

ONI ALPETORA/G.MANZ

BLANQAZUL

FELLOWS UNITED

BELFORD MEN RIVIERA RED LEOPOLDO CASHMERE

FAIRWAY & GREENE

ST. CROIX COLLECTIONS AND HERITAGE BY ST. CROIX PERUVIANNI

FILIPPO DE LAURENTIIS

ALEX CANNON

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P H O T O

S H O P

PERU UNLIMITED

BOAT 54

IMPULSO DALMINE 1952

MORA

CUTTER & BUCK

IRELANDS EYE

CIVIDINI MILANO 140

FLY3 RAFFI LANAI COLLECTION

VIYELLA

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JANUARY 24-26, 2016 MRKET NEW YORK

P H O T O

S H O P

WINTER BRIGHTS

CASTAWAY NANTUCKET ISLAND

Ward off the season’s traditionally subdued and chilly palette with welcoming pops of color.

BLUE VILLA DELMITIA

LV BLACK

LUCHIANO MORESCO

MARCHESI DI COMO BENTLEY CRAVATS CORP

MARCELLO SPORT TURQ NIKKY

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P H O T O

S H O P

EDWARD ARMAH

DAVEK ACCESSORIES

FEFE GLAMOUR POCHETTE MOBILE BAY

ORIES R ACCESS PETER BLAI

GITMAN BROS

LUCHIANO VISCONTI

SANI GUALTIERO FIRENZE

ROBERT GRAHAM HOSIERY

NIGEL KNOX NIFTY SOCKS

HILTS WILLARD CLASSIC STYLED DRESS & CASUAL GLOVES

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71

BY MICHAEL MACKO

HOW___________WORKS It’s a good time to be Todd Snyder. The crush-worthy menswear designer just sold his company to American Eagle for $11 million, will close the second edition of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, has plans to open stores in Japan and in NYC later this year and has a handful of successful licensees. I spent an afternoon with the designer to see how he works.

THE FOOTWEAR Snyder has a licensee with PF-Flyers for sneakers and Cole Haan for shoes. He chose them both because he likes authentic heritage brands. “I liked PFFlyer because they weren’t working with a bunch of other designers and I could stand out.”

CHAMPION Snyder’s best-known collaboration is with Champion, the almost 100-year-old athletic apparel brand that he has been collecting for over 20 years. In fact, he has over 1,000 computer-catalogued samples in his warehouse in Iowa.

Snyder actually sought out Champion for the collaboration because he was such an avid fan and they’re glad that he did.

THE KIDS Snyder is divorced with two teenage daughters who think that what he does is cool, but constantly remind him that he himself is, in fact, not cool. He even shared an Instagram exchange with his daughter about pictures from a red carpet appearance to prove it.“It keeps me humble.”

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PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

THE TAILORING Peerless makes Snyder’s clothing collection, which is manufactured in Chicago and retails for $795 for suits and $545 for sportcoats.

It’s a smart price/value strategy Snyder started when he was the creative director for men’s at J. Crew.

THE INSPIRATION Snyder finds inspiration everywhere. He travels extensively and collects art books, vintage clothes and various other ephemera.

One of his favorite ‘go-to’ photographers is Paul Strand, particularly his portraits of French workers, “He was the original ‘street-style’ photographer.”

F L O R E N C E | BORN IN THE USA AT PITTI UOMO | JANUARY 12-15, 2016 | FORTEZZA DE BASSO | T,W,TH:9AM-6PM, F:9AM-4PM N E W Y O R K C I T Y | JANUARY 26-28, 2016 | PIER 94 | T&W:10AM-6PM, TH:10AM-3PM L A S V E G A S | FEBRUARY 15-17, 2016 | SANDS EXPO, THE VENETIAN | M&T:9AM-6PM, W:9AM-4PM

WWW.LIBERTYFAIRS.COM | FOLLOW US @LIBERTYFAIRS PHOTOGRAPH

BY

JOHN

MIDGLEY

MR January 2016

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE / NEW YORK MARKET

A BUSINESS JOURNALS PUBLICATION

Vol. 27 No. 1