MR Magazine: February 2018

FEBRUARY 2018

LAS VEGAS

SHOW PREVIEW

THE SPORTSWEAR ISSUE

Contemporary Sportswear, Accessories and Footwear for Men and Women

Elevated Contemporary and Designer Collections for Men

Luxury to Lifestyle Better Menswear

Branded and Licensed Apparel for Men and Young Men

Independent, Art-Inspired Fashion and Accessories for Men and Women

Luxury to Lifestyle Branded Footwear for Men, Women, Juniors, and Children

FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 SOURCING AT MAGIC OPENS FEBRUARY 11 LAS VEGAS & MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTERS

PROJECT | THE TENTS | THE COLLECTIVE POOLTRADESHOW | FN PLATFORM

JULY 22-24, 2018 JACOB JAVITS CENTER, NYC

PROJECT | MRKET

REGISTER TODAY U B M FAS H I O N .CO M

INSIDE MR

20

32

42

20 INVESTING IN BRANDS

28 IN THE MIX

DEPARTMENTS

16

Ken Duane, CEO of PVH Heritage Brands, confronts the big picture changes in retail.

22 TRUE BELIEVER Designer Thom Browne explains how he stays true to his vision, no matter the season or collection.

Retailers need to show men how to combine tailored clothing with sportswear.

32 REBIRTH OF THE BLUES Fashion, color, stretch and lower prices are on the denim horizon.

36 COLD COMFORT For fall 2018, warmth and style will drve outerwear sales.

26 BOXING DAYS Red-hot subscrition box services are attracting investors, new customers and retail players. But will the movement last?

38 IN THE STREETS

COVER: COACH 1941; PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANE LAVANCHER

4

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

High-end sportswear is being influenced heavily by streetwear.

6 Masthead 8 Editor’s Letter 10 Guest Editorial 12 Ones to Watch 16 Scene 42 Fashion 84 MRQ: Marco Baldassari

OUR STYLE.

#MYCALVINS

CALVINKLEIN.COM

EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MANAGING EDITOR CREATIVE DIRECTOR WEB EDITOR/STYLE DIRECTOR

KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN (212) 600-3201 KAREN.GROSSMAN@UBM.COM BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON (212) 600-3375 BRIAN.LIPTON@UBM.COM HANS GSCHLIESSER (203) 523-7096 HANS.GSCHLIESSER@UBM.COM STEPHEN GARNER (212) 600-3350 STEPHEN.GARNER@UBM.COM

ADVERTISING GROUP PUBLISHER ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

STUART NIFOUSSI (212) 600-3382 STUART.NIFOUSSI@UBM.COM MICHELLE BROWN (212) 600-3325 MICHELLE.BROWN@UBM.COM

OFFICES EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE BUSINESS OFFICE

2 PENN PLAZA, 15TH FL, NEW YORK, NY 10121 (212) 600-3000 535 CONNECTICUT AVENUE, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 523-7000

ADVISORY BOARD MARIO BISIO ERICK DELEON DOUG EWERT DAN FARRINGTON DAN LEPPO KEN GIDDON TOM OTT

PRESIDENT, MARIO’S STORE MANAGER/BUYER, MARTINPATRICK3 CEO, TAILORED BRANDS GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP EVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S OWNER, ROTHMANS CHIEF MERCHANT, SAKS OFF 5TH, GILT.COM

UBM FASHION GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR

MICHAEL ALIC MICHAEL.ALIC@UBM.COM

MEN’S FASHION DIRECTOR

TOMMY FAZIO TOMMY.FAZIO@UBM.COM

FASHION EVENTS MAGIC/PROJECT LV/FN PLATFORM FEBRUARY 12-14 — MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER, LAS VEGAS, NV

SUBSCRIPTIONS FOR SUBSCRIPTION/CIRCULATION INQUIRIES, CALL: 888-527-7008. OUTSIDE THE U.S. CALL 218-740-7273.

LETTER CORRESPONDENCE CAN BE EITHER SCANNED AND EMAILED TO FULFILL@HCL.COM OR SEND VIA MAIL TO MR, UBM, 131 W 1ST ST, DULUTH, MN 55802.

MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published four times a year (January, February, July, August) by UMB plc, 535 Connecticut Avenue, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 143678. Subscription for the U.S. $34 one year, $53 two years. Foreign $102, Air Mail.

Current-issue copies (prepaid only): $10 in the United States & Possessions; $20 in Canada and Mexico; $30 all other countries. Back issues, if available: $20 in the U.S. and Possessions; $25 in Canada and Mexico; $35 in all other countries. Current-issue and back issue copies shipped inside the United States, include $7.50 for shipping and handling plus $3.50 per additional copy. Currentissue and back-issue copies shipped outside the U.S., include an additional $15.50 per order plus $6.50 per additional copy. Claims for undelivered copies not honored after 30 days from publication (90 days for overseas). POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to MR Magazine, P.O. Box 6000, Duluth, MN 55806-6000. Canadian G.S.T. number: R-124213133RT001. PUBLICATIONS MAIL GREEMENT NO. 40612608, Return Undeliverable Canadian Addresses to: IMEX Global Solutions, P. O. Box 25542, London, ON N6C 6B2, CANADA. Printed in the USA. UBM provides certain customer contact data (such as customers’ names, addresses, phone numbers, and e-mail addresses) to third parties who wish to promote relevant products, services, and other opportunities that may be of interest to you. If you do not want UBM to make your contact information available to third parties for marketing purposes, simply call toll-free 866-529-2922 between the hours of 7:30 a.m. and 5 p.m. CST and a customer service representative will assist you in removing your name from UBM’s lists. Outside the U.S., please phone 218-740-6477.

6

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

Project Booth # 30232 Weatherproofvintage.com

{ EDITORIAL }

ANALYZE THIS! Statistics can be useful but don’t underestimate instinct and inspiration.

AFTER THE BEST HOLIDAY SEASON IN MORE THAN A DECADE, retailers deserve to feel a bit less anxious. But while comfortable is cool, complacency is not, as retailing becomes increasingly competitive and confusing.

I’m not sure I have this quote verbatim, but some retail expert somewhere once said, “Good merchandising is giving customers what they want. Great merchandising is giving customers what they didn’t know they wanted until they saw it brilliantly displayed in your store.”

In this era of data overload, retailers should not forget their own power to create desire, both in store and online. We rely so heavily on statistics these days: previous shopping purchases and patterns; what customers say they want next; why they turn left instead of right as they enter the store; where, when and why they click; what they leave in their carts; which influencers have how many followers, ad infinitum. Yes, the analytics are interesting and sometimes helpful, but I don’t think they explain the visual magic that so often inspires impulse purchasing.

This is particularly relevant in menswear today. For despite the proliferation of fashion bloggers and online shopping sites, few American men are fashion mavens. Few think to mix tailored clothing with sportswear; few are familiar with performance fabrics that make today’s clothing (even tailored clothing) newly comfortable and easy to care for. Telling men to wear a merino knit V-neck under a soft sportcoat is one thing; wowing them with a line-up of mannequins dressed in sexy softcoats, sumptuous knits, fitted five-pocket pants in new fashion shades and cool sneakers—this is the instructional impact that’s too often missing, both on selling floors and on retailers’ websites. Personally, I’ve never understood why so many e-commerce sites feature product shots of men’s fashion rather than showing clothes on models. To see how the item drapes on the body and to imagine (by his smile or the twinkle in his eye) how a guy would feel in this fabulous clothing is, in my opinion, the magic that generates sales.

My other pet peeve of the moment is a reaction to those who say that retailers should not let their personal taste affect their buying decisions. I find this absurd: if not the store owner/buyer’s personal taste than whose? If a guy wants basic jeans or a white dress shirt or a zip-front sweatshirt, he can buy it on Amazon or in Costco. If he wants to elevate his style and find a new wardrobe to take him to the next level, he needs inspiration from a specific taste level. Why shouldn’t that taste level be yours? Today, more than ever, menswear stores should stand for something rather than featuring something for everyone.

So work your magic my retailer friends. The romance and rewards, the energy and excitement of our industry are still here for those who trust their instincts. Study the numbers, but then take a few risks, test some directional product from a few of the many emerging designers you’ll discover at Project, and present it like you mean it.

From all of us at MR/UBM Fashion, we look forward to catching up in Vegas!

In this era of data overload, retailers risk ignoring their own power to create desire.”

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

8

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

{ GUEST EDITORIAL }

YOUR RETAIL CULTURE AND HOW TO MAINTAIN IT For stores to survive, they need to both recognize decline and find ways to correct it.

BY MARSHALL KLINE

LAST YEAR, Phil Aronson, writing in Security magazine, made a thought-provoking assessment of the store closures that took place in 2017. Aronson believes that every store has a culture, and within the scope of that culture, stores can prosper. While a store’s culture should keep pace with change, its basic precepts should also remain consistent.

Macy’s and JCPenney both have a culture that extends back a century. While these retail giants have made many impressive changes (Macy’s was an early adapter of online selling, while Penney’s wisely resulted to price promitions after a previous CEO got rid of them), apparently, these moves have not been enough.

As a result, last year both retail giants elected to close a large number of under-performing stores. One suspects that if senior management had monitored the changes taking place more closely, steps could have been taken to correct the decline earlier.

The lesson to be learned is that resting on one’s laurels can be fatal.

So what can be done? The following is a four-step procedure for recognizing decline and correcting it: 1) Decline; 2) Survival; 3) Recover; 4) Surge Forward No operation is perfect. Continuous adjustments must be made to maintain a competitive and profitable posture.

The organization must first accept that adversity may cause it to downsize. Recognizing and dealing with the decline converts the operation into survival mode. The organization’s resilience/survival objective is to establish a mode of operation that recovers from the adversity.

In recovering, an organization’s resilience/survival ob-

jective is to regain the pre-adversity position. If this is impractical, then it needs to quickly establish an organizational format that will effectively function in the prevailing environment.

Once the new organizational format is established, the goal is to surge forward. The organization must not only survive the adverse situation, but must also positively profit from the experience—to resume growth and profitability.

While 2018 does not suggest a year of radical change, retail competition at all levels continues to intensify. That’s why highend stores like Neiman Marcus and Barneys aggressively established outlet operations. In some cases, this tangential move was a dramatic, and potentially disastrous, departure from the store’s culture.

With no retail experience, Mark Twain is credited with a wise observation that remains true today: “Do what you do best.” In the retail landscape, with competition becoming more challenging, retailers with a successful niche should put all of their efforts into expanding profit within that culture, commensurate of course with the changing taste of their customers.

So, as 2018 unfolds, here’s my advice to retailers. Reflect upon what made your store historically great. Then, think about what you need to do going forward to expand upon that trend.

Remember, Henry Ford went from making a buggy to a Model A to a Model T to a Mustang, all within the same culture. So can your store. Think about it.

Reflect upon what made your store historically great.

Then, think about what you need to do going forward to expand upon that trend.”

10

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

Marshall Kline is the founder the Marshall Kline Buying Service in Los Angeles. He can be contacted at 213-689-1269.

bugatchi.com

Fall & Winter 2018

N e w Yo r k C i t y

{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

Collective Wisdom CROW COLLECTIVE

Crow Collective designs versatile wardrobe essentials for anyone inspired by a life of movement and transformation. The Brooklyn-based company specializes in clean, modern cuts with an aesthetic that allows you to be dressed up, dressed down or rocked out, however you feel day or night. Whether you’re walking the streets of Manhattan or running across a deserted beach, Crow Collective clothing is made for whatever journey you choose.

The brand has come a long way from 2015, when designer and owner Evan Novis purchased a small clothing company called Yoga Crow, which made functional, stretchy, and non-restrictive practice shorts for men. He took this brand’s main idea and transformed it into a collection of musthave knit shirts, shorts, and pants, made with super-soft poly blends and premium cottons.

“I wanted to create clothing that was as fashionable as it was functional. I wanted clothing that reflected my sense of style and was super-versatile and allowed me to flow,” says Novis. “I want my clothing to be ready for anything and still look good.”

The brand’s standout piece is the Journey Pant, which retails for $108, and allows the wearer to move freely throughout the day. “You can throw these pants on in the morning and literally be ready for whatever the day brings your way,” adds Novis. – SG

An aesthetic that allows you to be dressed up, dressed down or rocked out.

Superior Feeling TWENTYMETRICTONS

Founded in 2016 by former Nordstrom buyer Ryan Holderbaum and pal Darin Unke, Twentymetrictons unites urban city style with an effortless west coast sensibility. The collection, inspired by the world of art and popular culture, offers a balanced and minimal approach to menswear.

“We’ve been friends for over 10 years now,” says Holderbaum. “We met when I was a buyer and Darin worked in design and manufacturing. It was about two years ago when we both decided to quit our jobs and come together on this project. And we’re really excited to see this brand grow as we combine our knowledge of the retail and menswear business.”

Designed in Seattle, the brand hangs its hat on the belief that clothes with amazing fabrics and modern, elevated styling shouldn't bust your wallet, while not making you look cheap, either. The brand sources quality fabrics from all over the globe, staying true to its mantra: "Superior fabrics thoughtfully designed for everyday use.” Typical prices for the brand’s line of woven shirts, knits, outerwear, and pants range from $90 to $250.

With only a few seasons under their belts, Holderbaum and Unke have managed to grow the distribution of their brand to several men’s specialty stores including DLM in Dallas, Jazzman in Madison, Caruso Caruso in Detroit, and select doors in Nordstrom.

Look for Twentymetrictons at Project Las Vegas. – SG

The brand hangs its hat on the belief that clothes with amazing fabrics and modern, elevated styling shouldn't bust your wallet.

12

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} } Finding the perfect balance of luxury and performance is the mission behind breakout brand Greyson. Inspired by the sport of golf, Greyson has the ability to transcend the course with apparel that is equally appropriate on the streets as it is on the green. That explains why Greyson is finding success in luxury department stores like Saks Fifth Avenue and Harry Rosen, independent specialty stores like Darien Sport Shop, Hall’s, and Drest, and online retailers including StitchFix and Trendy Golf.

“As a relatively new brand, each season there seems to be something new that we’re getting credit for, but the most consistent feedback has revolved around Greyson’s sophisticated styling and sensibilities interpreted for performance fabrics and silhouettes (such as dress shirt inspired collars on short sleeve knitwear, cashmere hoodies, and innovative prints),” said John Fiske, vice president of retail development and concept design.

“I would also say that we are becoming quickly known for our mixing of fabrics and patterns to create interesting hybrid styles across several classifications.”

While golf-inspired clothes are the brand’s first love, Fiske maintains that Greyson is eager to add more types of clothing.

“We want to figure out how to make our best products even better and focus on the expanded development of styles and classifications that transition our customer off the course and into the rest of his life,” he notes.

Expect to find great knits ($90-$115), pants ($130-$160), outerwear ($185-$350), and fleece ($125-$300) this season from Greyson at The Tents in Las Vegas. – SG

Inspired by the sport of golf, Greyson’s apparel is equally appropriate on the streets as it is on the green.

Above Par GREYSON

Functionally Fashionable FISHER + BAKER

Returning to Project Las Vegas this season is Minneapolis-based brand men's functional lifestyle clothing Fisher + Baker. Launched in December 2015 by Greg Horvitz with the help of business and marketing guru Mike Arbeiter, Fisher + Baker’s goal is to “Outfit the Everyday” with fashion and function.

For retailers – including such fine stores as True Measure in Santa Barbara, MartinPatrick3 in Minneapolis, Paragon Sporting Goods in Manhattan, and M. Dumas and Sons in Charleston – the brand aims to be an aspirational product that is not just limited to one season on their shelves.

“We are known for crafting menswear that is timeless in style, purposeful in every detail and highly functional in design,” says Arbeiter. “From the materials chosen to the relationships we build with retailers, and from the amount of time we spend agonizing over the angle of a zipper and beyond, we are 100 percent committed to the success of our brand.”

So what can we expect from the brand this year? “2018 will see our firstever spring/summer collection in better menswear and outdoor retailers and an expansion of our autumn/winter line to include offerings for transitional, cool and cold weather,” adds Arbeiter. “A spotlight item of the spring/summer release is the Kensington Shell ($378), a stylish windproof/waterproof jacket made from Ventile cotton.” – SG

The brand’s goal is to “Outfit the Everyday” with fashion and function.

14

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

{ SCENE }

STARRY STARRY NIGHTS

The Strip is bursting with the best names in entertainment.

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

1. SUPREME BEING You can call her Miss Ross, you can call her Diana, but whatever you call her, there’s no denying that Diana Ross is one of the most iconic and legendary musical performers of all time. In her “Endless Memories” show at the Wynn Hotel’s Encore Theatre (February 9-17), the endlessly entertaining singer will perform everything from her hit songs with The Supremes, such as “You Keep Me Hanging On,” to her solo chart toppers, including “Upside Down,” and even covers of such pop classics as “I Will Survive.” Whether you will survive this much fun remains in question.

(3131 Las Vegas Blvd S. 702-770-9996) 2.

1.

3.

From cherished icons to today’s superstars, there’s magic in the air!

4.

16

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

2. A TRIP TO MARS In just a few short years, Bruno Mars has become one of the hottest selling acts in the history of pop music, bringing crowds to their feet -- thanks to his dynamic stage presence, enchanting singing, superb dancing, and his ability to record unbelievably catchy tunes such as “Uptown Funk” and “24K Magic.” See for yourself at the Grammy-winning star’s coveted show at the Park Theater at the Monte Carlo (February 14-19). It’s truly out of this world!

(3770 Las Vegas Blvd S. 844-600-2275) 3. COMING UP ACES Whether you need a quick cure to forget about your gambling losses or just want to go to bed with a big smile on your face, you can’t go wrong with the Mirage’s Aces of Comedy series, This month’s headliners include funny man Ron White (February 9-10); Jim Jeffries (February 1617), who has made a name for himself across the country with his controversial stand-up style; and the hilarious Tiffany Haddish (February 18) who gained national fame with her award-winning performance in the hit film Girl’s Trip.

(3400 Las Vegas Blvd S. 702-792-7777) 4. THE BOYS ARE BACK While technically, Nick Carter, Howie Dorough, Brian Littrell, AJ McLean and Kevin Richardson are anything but “boys,” this quintessential quintet of singers remain The Backstreet Boys.

And they’re still able to make women (and some guys) of all ages swoon with their sharp dance moves and smooth harmonies. Their musical prowess is currently on display at The AXIS at Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino, where the group continues to captivate audiences with their specially created, over-the-top show, “Backstreet Boys: Larger Than Life.” (February 9-17). You’ll still want it their way!

(3667 Las Vegas Blvd S. 702-785-7882)

{ SCENE }

LIVE AND LET DINE

From caviar to cuttlefish, Las Vegas is a gourmet paradise.

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

1. MEAT UP FOR DINNER A carnivore’s delight, Bavette’s Steakhouse & Bar at the Monte Carlo serves up dry-aged bone-in ribeyes, zestfully seasoned lamb chops and thick-cut bacon gleaming under a sinful maple syrup glaze -- all in a setting reminiscent of the chicest Gilded Age eateries (highlighted by a mix of vintage art and murals by acclaimed artist David Plunkert). If you’re not a meat lover, don’t worry: there are sumptuous seafood specialties, classic cocktails and decadent desserts to satisfy your taste buds, as well.

(3770 Las Vegas Blvd S. 702-730-6700)

Anything that your heart (or stomach) desires can be found in Las Vegas!

1.

2.

3.

4.

18

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

2. PYRAMID SCHEME The minute you step inside the striking, pyramid-shaped entrance of Cleo at the newlyopened W Hotel, you will be instantly transported by the intoxicating aromas of the open kitchen where chef Danny Elmaleh creates his acclaimed contemporary Mediterranean cuisine. Choose from a wide array of marvelous mezzes, fabulous flatbreads, sumptuous sliders, tempting tagines and more, all complemented by a wide selection of exquisite cocktails, fine wines, beers and other luscious libations.

(2535 Las Vegas Blvd S. 702-761-7612) 3. ALL IN A ROE The days of the buffet being the “budget” option are long gone in Sin City, and nowhere is that more evident than at The Buffet at Bellagio. In addition to recent additions to its menu, ranging from snow crab to wild boar, the signature attraction is the “Caviar Experience,” where a chef attendant oversees the station, personally creating fresh house-made blinis and miniature buckwheat waffles filled with one’s choice of fish eggs and topped (on request) with traditional garnishes of chopped egg, onions and crème fraiche. How decadent!

(3600 Las Vegas Blvd S. 866-259-7111) 4. FROM ITALY WITH LOVE From its spectacular lagoon-side dining area to its sumptuous interior, the Wynn Las Vegas’ seafood palace Costa di Mare is fit for a king or queen. Executive chef Mark LoRusso focuses on sustainably sourced Mediterranean seafood, including imperial red prawns and handmade cuttlefish ink tagliatelle with shrimp, lobster, and spinach. The restaurant also offers guests two tasting menu options (one served family style, while the other is a plated tasting of unique items arriving from Italy). Mangia!

(3131 Las Vegas Blvd S. 702-770-3305)

STACYADAMS.COM

{ CONVERSATIONS }

INVESTING IN BRANDS As CEO of Heritage Brands for PVH, Ken Duane confronts big picture changes in business.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

From your perspective as a supplier to all the major retailers, can you discuss the state of retail at this point?

Things feel pretty good at the moment: more than pretty good!

November business was strong (of course we were up against last year’s election when people were home watching television!) and the two weeks before Christmas really took off! Unfortunately, I don’t think the U.S. has suddenly overcome the structural changes in the retail landscape. While holiday was certainly better compared to the last few years, we’ll continue to see noise in the retail world, with stores closing and retailers optimizing vendors. It’s not an apocalypse, but it’s certainly a lot of shifting. We can’t kid ourselves that business will be easy (and the new tax laws will certainly make it interesting) but at least now coming out of Christmas, it feels pretty good.

Are the major players changing quickly enough?

I think they’re working hard at adjusting their business models, at finding new ways to compete in-store and online to attract more customers. All are omni-channel these days, and many are bringing in smaller exciting brands and creating in-store experiences using new technology like those mirrors that make you look better. And it’s all happened relatively quickly, mostly within the last three years.

After another highly promotional holiday season, will retailers ever again sell the majority of their goods at regular price?

My belief has always been that “value proposition” drives consumer purchasing behavior. Today, it has nothing to do with MSRP or markdowns. Price promotions drive traffic to stores and malls but it’s the value proposition that drives the sale. Does this item look and feel fabulous and is it worth the price? Today’s consumers have the ability to research at their fingertips. You

20

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

can fool them once or twice but never three times. So if you’re going to be a $30 brand, don’t give them $20 worth of value!

That’s where PVH has an advantage: we invest in our brands from design to sourcing to production to marketing to sales. Our teams are focused on great product and noticeable value.

Your heritage brands have been around a long time: how do you keep them fresh without losing their DNA? Creating brand recognition is critical, and that’s something PVH is very good at. Long before customers get to a store or website, the brand needs to be familiar to them. Whether it’s Izod, Van Heusen, Speedo, Warnaco, Arrow—we invest and market our brands where ever consumers are shopping. We use brand ambassadors (professional golfers and tennis players) for events and in-store appearances, we do powerful advertising in print and digital, and we’re continuously investing in and reinforcing our brands. I call it “pull through”- pulling the customer through the clutter to make the purchase. Now more than ever, retailers are investing in brands they know can deliver.

You’ve often said that retailing doesn’t have a business problem, it has a real estate problem.

The biggest issue of our era is too much retail real estate; the closing of 3,000+ retail doors is helping to solve this problem.

With so many brands going direct to consumer, one would think private label would be growing. Is it?

We’re not really a big private label company although we do some. But in the 35 years I’ve been in this industry (20 years at PVH), I’ve seen the pendulum swing back and forth between private label and national brands. I believe there’s a home for both; there’s got to be a balance.

What are the ramifications of retailers growing their outlet divisions at a quicker pace than their regular stores? What is

{ CONVERSATIONS } your outlet strategy at PVH? Clearly, outlets have been the healthiest brick-and-mortar channel outside of off-price, and our outlet business continues to perform quite well. The biggest impact to the outlet channel was the decline some years ago in international tourist traffic due to the strengthening of the U.S. dollars. But unlike in previous years, there isn’t a ton of new outlet center development going on.

But you do business in both your own outlets and department store outlets, even though you’re selling the regular department store divisions.

We close out to department store outlets. If a department store we work with has started an outlet journey, we’ll work with them.

To what extent are you selling online and how do you work with Amazon?

As a company of national brands, we go where the consumer is: that’s our world view; we’re constantly adjusting and adapting to how the consumer shops. For us, online is an important channel of distribution. Amazon, together with the brick-and-mortar dotcoms, is now our fastest growing channel. But expect to see our heritage brands sold online direct to consumer in the near future.

In terms of technology, what are some of the most exciting innovations at PVH? Stretch technology is finally catching on with men and it’s had a major impact on sales. In just two years, stretch (both fabric and collars) in dress shirts has grown to more than 30 percent of the business and will continue to grow. It’s also an important factor in our pants business. The most fascinating piece of it for me is how long it took men to accept stretch technology. It’s been in the women’s market for 10-15 years but guys are just starting to get it.

I guess men are a slower species. And it’s not just stretch: We’ve

got a whole innovation team under the direction of CIO Mike Kelly and there’s some really cool stuff coming down the pike. In shirts and pants, there’s some kind of air cooling system utilizing menthol; we already have moisture-wicking fabrics and those that retain body heat. There are all kinds of exciting innovations in the works that will ultimately apply to apparel.

Can you comment on PVH and corporate responsibility?

It’s the key to how we do business. It’s integral to how we approach sourcing and our overall business model. It’s part of our DNA. In terms of sourcing, labor costs continue to be a challenge.

As economies come of age, as the middle class expands and real estate tightens, we’re forced to look to new places for production.

Africa has recently become a strong supply base.

What about America: do you produce anything here?

It’s minimal. We do some of our better neckwear at our Superba facility in California which makes beautiful product. That’s an important business for us.

In addition to rising labor costs, what do you see as key challenges?

The continued development of our young people: how to attract them, train them, retain them, inspire them. Increasingly, the effort we put into our young team members is a huge priority around here, especially since we have lots of top talent coming to us these days. For a while there was a void as the best graduates were gravitating toward Wall Street or the dotcoms. But now they’re coming here and we’re delighted. We want them! And if they come to us, we want them to grow with us.

At this point in your personal journey, what are you most looking forward to?

In this era of new technology, I can’t wait to shop in stores with those fitting room mirrors that can make me look better!●

Our teams are focused on great product and notable value.

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2018 MR

21

{ DESIGNERS }

TRUE BELIEVER

Whether it’s tailored clothing or sportswear, Thom Browne creates collections his way.

A

s Fern Mallis so aptly put it as she began her latest 92Y “Fashion Icons” conversation last month, if the designer Thom Browne had a theme song, it would have to be the Frank Sinatra mega-hit “My Way.” Since launching his first menswear offerings in 2001, the 52-year-old Pennsylvania native has remained true to his beliefs in unusual proportions, wearing suits without socks, and pairing heavily tailored jackets with shorts.

While acceptance of his ideas—by both customers and retailers—was far from immediate, Browne has become one of the most successful names in fashion, with a business (now both men and women’s) valued at over $100 million, nearly 20 directly operated shops around the world, accounts at close to 300 of the world’s finest department and specialty stores, and a shelf full of awards.

Which is particularly remarkable for a man who doesn’t sew or draw (but, as Mallis pointed out, sketches competently), relying instead on his design team (which he calls “the best in the world”) to execute his singular vision.

To say all of this was the fulfillment of a childhood dream would be anything but the truth, Browne told Mallis during their revealing chat. He was the middle of seven children in a conservative, Catholic family, the son of two attorneys, and no one in his home cared that

22

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

MICHAEL PRIEST PHOTOGRAPHY

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

much about clothes. “Fashion was the last we thing we ever talked about,” he noted. “My father was a traditional classic businessman; if he didn’t have a suit to put on in the morning, he didn’t know what to wear. As for the kids, if we needed something new, we’d just point to something in the J. Crew or Lands End catalogue, and that’s what we got.”

He studied economics at Notre Dame University (where much of his family went and where he could pursue his then-passion for swimming) and worked briefly in financial consulting (including a brief stint at Kohls) after college until he decided he needed to make a fresh start in Los Angeles. He was working in the film industry, as both a production assistant and actor – he had to change his name to Thom (from Tom) to get his SAG card – when he bonded with Johnson Hartig, who went on to start Libertine Clothing.

“I think he was the only other person in L.A. who wore a sportcoat,” Browne told the audience. “Let’s face it, most people in L.A. have no style at all; it’s such a jeans and t-shirt kind of town.” The duo (who remain close) soon spent their times prowling thrift shops and then re-tailoring the vintage clothing into looks that fit their sensibility. “I think that was the beginning of what would become the look of my collections,” says Browne.

Still, it wouldn’t be until four years after he moved to New York

{ DESIGNERS } City (during which he was a wholesale account manager at Giorgio Armani and a designer at Club Monaco) that Browne had the courage to put his money where his mouth was. Working out of his apartment, Browne had clients come to order custom-made or made-to-measure suits. “I think I sold five the first year,” he said.

Still, he believed enough in his vision that he wore his own suits on a daily basis on the streets of the Big Apple. “Sure, a lot of people looked at me in a funny way, because to their eyes, I was wearing clothes that didn’t fit,” he recalled. “But I didn’t care; in fact, I wanted people to see something totally different. If you’re going to make tailored clothing, I believe you need to push the envelope very far.”

Eventually, the right people took notice, with Paris-based specialty store Colette and New York’s legendary Bergdorf Goodman buying his 2003 collection.

“What Bergdorf did was very special; they really were visionaries,” says Browne. “I think we both knew that they could attract a customer who could really appreciate a wellmade piece of clothing.”

Despite some blips (including needing to find outside financing more than once), his business has grown exponentially over the past 15 years. Along with a well-regarded sportswear line and a popular women’s line (a favorite of former First Lady Michelle Obama), he

has collaborated with Brooks Brothers and Moncler, and speaks proudly of both of those collections. That said, he now claims to be tired of doing collaborations and has no real interest in working on a lower-priced line for a mass-market or fast-fashion retailer.

“Honestly, I don’t know how I could translate my sensibility to those sorts of businesses,” he said frankly.

Still, he’s open to more new opportunities. He’s focusing on growing his online business (he currently sells on Farfetch); he is considering entering the worlds of cosmetics and fragrance (provided he could find the right partner); and he would love to see his past collections—all of which he has archived—exhibited in a museum (which seems entirely possible, since his partner of six years is Andrew Bolton, the head curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s legendary Costume Institute).

Equally important, he noted, “I want to be a little more conscious about the business side of the business. I am always looking for better ways to balance the commercial side with the creative side. But at the end of the day, and this would be my advice for anyone going into fashion, the most important thing is to do work that means something to you and to create something that can live on, not just for a season or two, but for a lifetime or two. Quality is the most important element of any piece of clothing.”●

I wanted people to see something totally different. If you’re going to make tailored clothing, I believe you need to push the envelope very far.”

24

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

SPRING/SUMMER 2018

Jay Hunter•Actor

M a g i c L a s Ve g a s Collective Booths 22289-22300 SHIRTS & TIES:LND NECKWEAR • SUITS: STITCHED HOLDINGS • S H O E S / B E LT S : G LO B E F O OT W E A R • H AT S : B R U N O CA P E LO • S O C K S : GA R M E N T G R O U P Stevenland.com • 800-555-4009

{ RETAILING } A POSSIBLE ASSORTMENT OF MEN’S FASHION FROM TRUNK CLUB

BOXING DAYS

Red-hot subscription box services are attracting investors, new customers and retail players. But is this latest movement going to last?

BY CHRISTOPHER BLOMQUIST

O

ne only has to read the fashion-business headlines to know that online subscription box services, where customers are sent an assortment of products selected by stylists after reviewing a customer’s needs and preferences, have become a big business in the past few years. Indeed, a July 2017 report by information company NPD Group called the subscription sector “the hottest new shopping channel in the swiftly evolving $217.6 billion U.S. apparel market” and noted that there was still plenty of room for additional growth.

These services initially came to the consumer forefront just under a decade ago, with the launch of such companies as Birchbox, the pioneering personal-care item purveyor, and Trunk Club, which remains the granddaddy of these service models in the menswear space. (Nordstrom acquired Trunk Club in 2014 for $350 million only to take a $197 million write-down on it two years later, but the company remains popular.)

Still, it might have been hard to imagine back then that a subscription box company would actually go public. That’s why some observers were taken aback when multi-brand styling service Stitch Fix, which officially launched its men’s service in September 2016, served up a $120 million initial public offering last November.

The IPO has proved reasonably successful for most investors – although the company actually raised about half of what was initially proposed and its stock price has wavered ever since – and the company has reported a sharp increase in subscribers.

“I think the one thing subscription clubs have in common is that their customers want something different from the way they have been shopping,” says Sarah Lee, co-founder of six-year-old subscription service Bombfell. “Brick-and mortar and the traditional shopping experi-

26

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

ence doesn’t work for them so they are actively seeking something new and we are how they fix what is broken from that experience.”

“It really has been a sea change in the last 18 months,” says Bernie Yoo, the other co-founder of Bombfell. “With the Stitch Fix IPO, people are starting to understand how powerful this one-to-one personalization can be and wrapping their heads around it and trying to enter the space. When we started in 2011 it was considered really crazy to allow someone from afar to pick your clothes.”

So, is anyone next on the IPO front? The Harvard Business Review recently noted that there are currently more than 2,000 consumer subscription services available that literally sell everything from A (accessories) to Z (zombie-themed merchandise). Moreover, there were 11 million active subscriptions in the U.S. in 2017, the result of a 200 percent annual growth since 2011.

Further, new launches just keep coming, such as Fruit of the Loom’s Fruit to Your Door, which started offering underwear replenishments every six months at a 30 percent discount in November, or hosiery brand Sock It to Me’s new “sockscription” box offering that sends subscribers two pairs of limited edition socks each month for three months for a fee of $60.

The reasons for growth in this particular sector are numerous. According to NPD’s figures, 15 percent of consumers have ordered boxes, 14 percent have not but plan to, and a whopping 35 percent are not even aware that such offerings even exist, making for a generously untapped market. “There is a great deal of room to grow within the subscription model, and the competitive field will continue to expand as online retailers develop subscription services and options for auto-replenishment of fashion basics,” notes NPD’s chief analyst Marshal Cohen.

{ RETAILING } because they have a really broad assortment These services have also become highly of big and tall -- both national brands and a coveted stockists to vendors, especially those really robust in-house private label offering,” with a lower public profile. Speaking of his he notes. “For us to be able to access that inrelationship with Stitch Fix, Matteo Manventory, as well as being able to reach the niaty, head of the menswear line DescenJCPenney customer base, was a no-brainer,” dant of Thieves and its secondary line Still, some wonder if the subscription marImpatient Wolves, says, “They are one of the ket is the true wave of the future. Indeed, smartest retailers in the business – with a Bombfell is already taking steps to keep up team of some 30-plus data scientists. For with the always changing winds. Yoo and felus, using Stitch Fix has helped and broadlow cofounder Sarah Lee argue that the future ened our overall business. It has introduced strength of their company won’t be in the curboth of our brands to a new consumer that rent subscription box model but rather in normally may not know of us.”

Bombfell’s ability to – just like traditional More significantly, some of the country’s service-oriented retailers – know its cusmost established brick-and-mortar retailers tomers personally via collected data and inare finally attempting to ride the subscripformation. tion wave (and mine its abundance of valu“It’s kind of like treating our customers as able customer data) by cooperating rather –Matteo Manniaty individuals. Department stores back in the than merging with these startups. For exday did it really well for people who had a lot ample, JCPenney announced a partnership last year with Bombfell to sell big and tall menswear assortments and of money,” says Lee. “And then there’s also obviously the convenience Macy’s recently joined with men’s fashion accessories subscription box factor. Amazon made it really convenient but not everybody wants what is highly rated on Amazon. We are trying to marry the two and make SprezzaBox to sell its curated boxes in stores during the holidays.

As Yoo explains, these relationships are completely symbiotic as a the best of both worlds by making it personalized and just for you and department store gets access to these startups’ subscription bases while not for everyone else and at an acceptable price point.”

Even in cyberspace, the customer is still king and you must always the subscription service gets a whole new line of generally less expensive merchandise. “It made a lot of sense for us to partner with JCPenney serve him like one. ●

“For us, using Stitch Fix has helped and broadened our overall business.

It has introduced both of our brands to a new consumer that normally may not know of us.”

How Subsciption Clubs Work

While rules, fees, product assortments and return rates vary by company (and most are not willing to reveal the latter), the basic business model is that the customer completes a style profile indicating his fashion preferences, budget, etc. and, for a small fee, a stylist puts together an assortment of clothing and ships the box for an in-person review/try-on at home. The customer can then purchase or return the items within a week. Here’s a closer look at how three of the biggest ones operate:

Trunk Club

In addition to its online presence, Trunk Club operates seven physical clubhouses where customers can meet with stylists and also order custom clothing. The company employs 500 stylists nationwide and charges a $25 styling fee for each shipped trunk of clothing. Shipping and returns are free. Trunk Club offers hundreds of brands, most of which can be found in Nordstrom stores.

Stitch Fix

Guys first fill out a Style Profile and are then sent five items after consulting with a stylist. The styling fee is $20, which is charged if the customer keeps anything, and a 25 percent discount is applied if the entire box is purchased. No ongoing subscription is required; boxes are sent per the customer’s request.

The service employs more than 3,000 stylists and 75 data stylists and also offers exclusive brands.

Bombfell

The company charges a $20 styling fee for any items that are purchased. It recently launched a “Keep More, Get More” program, which offers a sliding discount of up to 20 percent if four or more pieces are kept and 10 percent off if two are. The company features more than 100 vendors and its core customer base is 30-to 45-year-old professionals.

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2018 MR

27

{ TAILORED SPORTSWEAR } TALLIA

IN THE MIX The modern way for men to dress involves combining

sportswear and tailored clothing. So why aren’t more retailers merchandising their stores that way?

Y

ou know a paradigm shift is happening when Zegna, iconic Italian maker of luxury tailored clothing, merges tailored clothing and sportswear in their New York showroom. Or when Men’s Wearhouse, America’s major purveyor of moderate tailored clothing, begins their new TV commercial with “You’re out of the office—but that doesn’t mean you’re not working…” and features a mix of tailored pieces with sportswear. In today’s era of workplace casualization, retailers who ignore this trend are missing a golden opportunity to teach men a modern way of dressing, and substantially increase sales in the process.

Clearly, one of the hottest items in both sportswear and clothing departments these days is the soft sportcoat, i.e. a soft fabric shell with minimal or no canvas, padding or lining. The Italians have been crafting these exquisite garments in luxury fabrics for years, but deconstructed sportcoats are just starting to catch on in the U.S. as guys begin to appreciate the versatility, practicality and fashion quotient of this modern wardrobe staple.

Unfortunately, the proliferation of soft garments in both clothing and sportswear departments has created both confusion and cannibalization. Says Durand Guion, group VP/fashion director at Macy’s: There continues to be demand for soft sportcoats within specific sportswear brands. There’s a consumer who is primarily sportswear oriented and prefers to shop for tailored pieces in that environment.”

28

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

That said, Guion notes that as sportcoat business evolves on the tailored clothing floor, eliminating duplication is a challenge.

“There’s no question that the broadest assortments of sportcoats are still merchandised within tailored clothing.” (And according to Macy’s post-Christmas reports, tailored clothing was a star performer in the fourth quarter.)

At Men’s Wearhouse, where holiday clothing business was strong, chief merchant Scott Norris sees sportscoats as a growth opportunity. “We still sell suits 3:1 over sportscoats but we’re starting to do a better job of storytelling on the selling floor. If we show outfits fully rigged on mannequins, guys understand the versatility of sportscoats and buy them.”

At Bloomingdale’s, Scott Polworth notes that sportcoats and trousers are increasing their penetration to total clothing business at the expense of nested suits. At Levys in Nashville, sportcoats from Italian makers (Zegna, Canali, Armani) and blazers in new colors (hot blues) from Hickey Freeman and Blujacket have been sellimg well. According to David Levy, his customers still prefer some construction in their clothing, a belief shared by many U.S. merchants.

“It’s hard to generalize since it’s more about the swatch,” Levy explains. “But surely Canali’s half-lined Kei jacket with patch pockets is still a winner and we’re testing Hickey’s half-canvas collection as sportswear.”

{ TAILORED SPORTSWEAR } Ed Boas from Lanes in Miami emphasizes the importance of changing the mix each season. “Sportscoats make up 40 percent of our clothing volume and that percentage is growing. I view suits as a pragmatic purchase and sportscoats as an emotional buy.” Boas also believes that sportcoats are perceived as “cooler” than suits, and that his best-sellers are those with “presence and personality.” That said, he acknowledges that the greater challenge is selling tailored clothing in an era when it’s no longer mandatory office attire (a double challenge in the Florida heat). “I wish I had an answer for you,” he confides. “Selling tailored clothing in a sportswear world is a matter of creating desire.”

And creating desire takes a bit of effort, including powerful advertising, compelling presentation, upbeat in-store events and hiring sellers with a true passion for the business. In New Orleans, David Rubenstein of Rubensteins has tried it all with impressive

tions for fall ‘18. With their recent purchase of Culturata (now a full sportswear collection made in Italy), they offer upscale stores a modern sportswear interpretation of tailored clothing. Hickey Freeman is also going after millennials with their “H” line - half canvas, shorter, tighter, younger models produced in their Rochester factory at pricepoints under $1,000.

Samuelsohn is also targeting millennials with a new division called Sohn -- Euro-inspired separates at a price level under Samuelsohn -- made in the same Montreal factory since 1923.

“Millennials are into experiences, innovation, authenticity and value. With our new divisions, we’re giving stores numerous ways to reach them,” says Arnold Silverstone.

At volume pricepoints, sportcoats are hot at Tailorbyrd, according to Stewart Golden. Among his major retail accounts, sellthroughs have been averaging 15 percent a week. “Stores were ZEGNA

MAURIZIO BALDASSARI

ELEVENTY

results. He’s lost count of the number of Eleventy laser-cut knit sportscoats he’s been selling. “They dress up or down, they fold, they travel. It’s by far our hottest sportcoat, selling at an unbelievable rate to young and old. In fact it’s affecting our traditional blazer sales. At $599 retail, the price is perfect. Also the ‘swacket’ works nicely: it’s a crossover between a sweater and a jacket and sells well, especially in the fall.”

At Mitchells in Westport, Dan Farrington includes knit sportscoats in his list of hot items, as well as 10-pocket travel blazers. He strongly advocates in-stock programs allowing buyers to reorder hot items in season.

A few upscale makers are doing just that. At Maurizio Baldassari, Renato Baldassari describes increased business coming from on an in-stock program with three-day delivery (from Italy!).

Among his best-selling core items: an extrafine merino knit cardigan, laser cut, fully fashioned, and available in 12 colors.

At Boglioli, “empty” tailoring and a unique garment dye process have put the company on the map in upscale stores. Says David Newlove: “Customers are learning to break up these suits and wear them as sportswear. And once they’ve worn this type of softly tailored garment, there’s no going back.”

Known for both modern and heritage luxury clothing, Samuelsohn and Hickey Freeman have introduced several more casual op-

30

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

reordering spring goods (linens with contrast linings and under-collar treatments) after five weeks so our business has been exceptional.

For fall ‘18, we’re showing blends with a cashmere-like hand, waffle weave knits with stretch, and other knitted looks. Everything we now do incorporates two to five percent stretch so the comfort is built in.” on Wurtzburger at Peerless (the dominant supplier of moderate-priced clothing to department and specialty stores) acknowledges that “sportswear might be getting more attention these days but men’s tailored clothing is showing substantial growth at all major stores from Macy’s to Belk, JCPenney and Kohls. I can tell you from fall ‘18 bookings that there’s no decline in clothing orders. A sportcoat from a sportswear maker is not the same quality as from a tailored factory. And with stretch being the magic word, tailored clothing is now as comfortable as sportswear.” (Reinforcing the fusion of sportswear and clothing, for fall ‘18, Peerless is showing dress pants with athleisure details, even track pants, in corduroys, flannels, and other touch fabrics.)

Clearly, with the widespread adapting of performance fabrics and stretch, tailored clothing has become both more comfortable and more versatile, something retailers should be shouting about for fall ‘18. The soft sportcoat should be positioned as the must-have item of the season and the fusion of sportswear and tailored clothing as menswear’s most important fashion trend. ●

R

{ DENIM } CALIFORNIA-BASED LIVERPOOL JEANS HAS SEEN GREAT SUCCESS BY INTRODUCING COLORS SUCH AS OLIVE GREEN, BURGUNDY, TOBACCO AND GRAPHITE GRAY.

REBIRTH OF THE BLUES Fashion, color and lower prices are on the denim horizon for fall 2018.

BY JOHN JONES

I

t doesn’t seem that long ago that we were watching the denim market race (along with the rest of menswear) to see how skinny silhouettes could get. Then the focus shifted to watching the pendulum swing between rip-and-repair vs. clean denim. The result was some market stagnation and a fear that denim’s best days were behind us.

Moreover, while it seemed that a return to stricter office dress codes was possible just a few years ago, the workplace now seems to have settled into a more casual environment -- especially with so many individuals spending their days at coworking spaces like WeWork or The Wing --where denim is readily accepted as everyday attire.

That’s one reason why so many brick-and-mortar and online retailers remain bullish on denim, even expanding their offerings for fall.

“Denim is having a resurgence and we have seen a great demand for it from our male customers,” says Bloomingdale’s men’s fashion director Anya Deweerdt. “We have definitely seen an increase in the demand for jeans that can be worn to work, including more tailored fits , cleaner washes and darker colors, as well as black denim” That sentiment is shared by Macy’s GVP/fashion director of Men’s, Durand Guion. “Denim is now appropriate and an accepted part of many corporate dress codes,” says Guion. “In fact, it is often

32

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

the case that the style component goes way up when denim is worked into a tailored look.”

Adds Beth Zinman, general managerof e-tailer ShopExecutive: “It’s definitely a different world and the evolution of what defines our work spaces now has clearly had an effect on business attire. We used to sell a lot of tailored clothing, but these days, denim makes up about 70 percent of our overall sales.”

Guion stresses that fashion, fit and color details are among the biggest factors men use in choosing what denim to purchase. “For fall, we’ll continue to see tapered silhouettes doing well,” he says. “We'll also see more athletic-inspired side taping, repaired details versus ripped, and, especially, the emergence of color.”

Color has been a strong selling point lately for California-based Liverpool Jeans, which sells both online and in stores. “The real news for us is in color,” says Ron Perilman, the brand’s president and cofounder. “We’re selling as much color this fall as we did last spring; incorporating highs, lows and texture. We’re presenting dark olives, burgundies, a tobacco color, as well as a graphite gray in dark washes.”

Adds Rian Buckley, co-founder and CEO of Fitcode, “Black and gray jeans will be an important staple in any man’s wardrobe.”

The color story is similar at Mavi, notes Ardie Ulukaya, the com-

O R

J

U

H

O

U

O

U

O

K

the brand

H E A D Q U A R T E R S 3 2 3

W.

1 2 T H N Y,

3 9 T H

S T R E E T

F L O O R

N Y

U

1 0 0 1 8

T E L: (2 1 2) 7 6 8 - 4 6 4 1 F A X: (2 1 2) 7 6 8 - 8 4 2 6

{ DENIM } pany’s vice president of sales. “The palette is a little more vibrant in men’s than before, mostly distressed and washed out, with dark greens, khaki, gray, navy, olive and brick selling well. In our 34 Heritage line (targeting the 55-year-old guy) we are also selling color, including dark, earthy colors for fall ’18. They are elegant and soft.”

Los Angeles-based Cotton Citizen, which recently entered the premium denim market, is finding great success by preaching the color gospel. “We’re all about very saturated color,” says founder and creative director Adam Vanunu. “We see the need for a strong focus on content, teaching people how to wear bright colors. We’re also seeing stores be more experimental and bold with bottoms.”

Similarly, Raleigh Denim Workshop’s founder Victor Lytvinenko says his brand has benefitted by the greater acceptance of color in men’s bottoms. , “We started using a stretch fabric with color a few seasons back and sales of it have grown every season since we introduced it. We are now at 50/50 stretch color to traditional denim, and we introduce a new color palette every season,” he says. Color is a way for men who have not been in touch with fashion to have permission to play. People are seeing it more and more and getting positive feedback when they wear it.” ndeed, stretch is a key factor in driving denim sales. “There has also been an increase in the offering of innovative fabrics like denim with better recovery, moisture wicking and temperatureregulating fabrics,” says Deweerdt.

Adds Liverpool’s Perilman: “We’re introducing a nylon/rayon stretch pant for fall 2018 and a luxury knit stretch jean. They are both great for work.”

Of course, many men are still picky when it comes to fit, say experts.

“The slim, tailored silhouette is still going to dominate in 2018,” says Buckley. “Fit is the number one purchase driver for men (and women!), and consumers want the guesswork taken out of denim shopping. Our partner integration data shows that if they like the style—and they know it will fit—consumers are at least three times more likely to buy.”

Adds Lytvinenko: “We are evenly mixed across our three main fits, with maybe 10 percent taken up by a new skinnier fit we sell.”

Finally, there’s the factor of price/value. Premium denim pricepoints still set the standard at high-end retailers such as Barneys, Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, along with many better specialty stores.

“Our stores are becoming more interested in what we make and people are willing to spend $200 or more on our product,” says Lytvinentko. “We’ve built a core business in that area, and people keep coming back for more. We think about the word luxury a lot, how it has changed and what it means to today’s consumer.”

Still, for much of the denim sector, price is the biggest factor driving the business. Indeed, the high prices denim once commanded are being eroded across the market, driven down in part by fast-fashion retailers like H&M and Zara.

“There’s been a ripple effect throughout the market. It’s like the way we want comfort food when times get difficult,” notes Cult of Individuality founder and director Ron Poisson.

In addition, an increasing number of mainstream brands are catering to the customer who simply doesn’t want to shell out three figures for their jeans anymore.

Adds Ulukayam, “There’s more growth than ever at the less than $98 price point. We’re doing great with Nordstrom as well as with Nordstrom.com and Amazon.”

“We launched Liverpool with a focus on value,” says Perilman. “The consumer still wants the hottest fabrics and the newest washes, but the magic price point is now below $100. In fact, we’ve identified an $89 sweet spot. But, again, he still wants value. He won’t wear inexpensive looking or feeling denim.”

As the saying goes, there’s something for everyone. ●

I

MAVI IS FINDING GROWTH WITH JEANS UNDER 100 DOLLARS.

34

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

{ OUTERWEAR }

A

s we all know, temperatures reached record lows horn buttons and a removable fur faux trim on the hood.”

Many of those same features – including removable fur (real throughout much of the country in January, from the typically chilly North to the usually warm South. So it’s far and faux) – will be available on some ski jackets offered by luxury from surprising that both retailers and manufacturers reported a Swiss brand KJUS. “We plan to offer a wide range of products healthy outerwear season. For fall ‘18, the trend should continue this fall,” says Kelly Lindsay, head of marketing for the 18-yearwith parkas, overcoats, sweater vests and other pieces all ensuring old company. “There will be premium down jackets that people that consumers can both keep warm and look stylish. can wear in 0-degree weather, as well as lighter shells that can be used for layering.”

“We’re finding that our Meanwhile, fashion facustomers not only want to BERETTA vorite Bogner will offer a vabe comfortable; they don’t riety of heavyweight and want to look dated,” says lighter styles, all described Ken Giddon, owner of by the company as “luxury Rothmans New York. “So styles with timeless designs.” many men are finally reAs in past seasons, layerplacing the outerwear that ing seems to be the most imthey have had for years or portant word in the decades in their closet. Esouterwear industry right pecially in New York, people now. “We feel there is a real are ‘tightening up’ – they demand for multi-layered don’t want to keep anything technical pieces that can be that looks or feels too bulky.” worn throughout the fall Yet, even though the season, then into winter and “Michelin Man” look is defieven spring,” says Brad Shernitely out of style, the deman, vice president and mand for down-filled general manager of Minouterwear and parkas reneapolis specialty store Humains strong, both in urban bert White. areas and on the ski slopes.

“We believe there is a real “Down outerwear trended value in customers owning a very well this winter, as system of layering pieces that would be expected with the can be used together or sepfrigid temperatures the arately. Plus, it doesn’t have Eastern seaboard saw this to be bought all at once; we year. So we expect the puffer encourage our customers to trend to continue strongly collect pieces over time.” there for fall and we will also That sentiment is one see more graphic, ski-inbig reason many manufacspired parkas,” says Justin turers are adding all sorts of Berkowitz, men’s fashion dipossible “layering” pieces rector at Bloomingdale’s. into their offerings. Making “We will be offering a big comeback this fall is the many updates to our overcoat, which was seen on technical ski collection, numerous European runincluding a brand new ways in January and is also a insulated ski parka,” says favorite of American compaHeifara Rutgers, cofounder nies like Peerless Clothing. and president of five-year“There is a definite fashion old, Colorado-based brand

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON resurgence in this category Aztech Mountain. and our overcoat bookings in “Parkas are still in high our Tallia collection are very demand by both consumers strong for fall,” says Ron and especially by retailers who are looking for ways to keep this segment fresh and lucrative,” Wurtzburger. “We are offering everything from classic camel hair says Mike Arbeiter, president of Minneapolis-based Fisher + Baker. coats to multi-colored furs, coats with velvet trim and even mid“Because we anticipate the sell-through in this category to be length DBs. And stores are buying them; we don’t have to push significant this year, it leaves the door open for new parka them into ordering.”

Of course, overcoats are only one part of the current layering opportunities next winter. Therefore, we expect retailers will seek out parkas with both a clean and traditional aesthetic, along with equation, with numerous other options available to consumers. true technical performance under the hood. For fall, we will be “We’re very high on creating pieces that can be worn as a luxury layintroducing our Manitou Parka, which both exceeds the industry ering system or as stand-alone piece,” says Patrick Mocorro, sales standards for warmth and waterproofness, and features clean lines, and marketing manager of clothing and accessories at Beretta. “We

COLD COMFORT

For fall 2018, warmth and style will drive outerwear sales.

36

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

{ OUTERWEAR } “We sell a lot of vests, since our clients like to wear them beneath particularly love jackets and coats that are made of traditional wool and on which we layer a water-repellent wax coating that gives the their outwear and even under their sportscoats and suits,” says coat a new texture and look, as well as using new technology to Rothmans’ Giddon. “We did really well with one from Victorinox, but since they discontinued their apparel, I really need to find somebond windproof and waterproof linings into wool coats.”

Says Arbeiter: “Demand is growing quickly for transitional ap- thing perfect to replace it.”

“Vests have become among our most key items,” says Robin parel that can do more than just bridge the gap between seasons, and can instead live in all seasons. One of our new mottos is that McVicar, buyer at Connecticut’s Darien Sport Shop (which carries such outerwear brands as Peter Millar, Ralph Lauren, Faherty, ‘autumn is the new everyday.’ Also, there is definitely a recent upStenstrom, Sanyo and Greyson.) “We also found significant swing in retailers buying highly functional rainwear, such as growth this year with lightweight shirt jackets, hybrid waterproof and windproof trenchcoats.” pieces like fleece-lined waterproof sweaters, quilted Adds Ron Rheingold, president of Weatherproof vests and jackets. I expect that trend to continue Vintage: “One of the many trends we see in the this fall.” market is the evolution of ¾-length waxed outOne company trying to make its mark in erwear with a rainwear vibe. We consider it the this area is Avalanche Outdoor. “We’ve found third layer completer piece to any man’s that the pieces that work well as both transiwardrobe.” tional outerwear and layering pieces really Currently, Survivalon is seeing great expand the outerwear category, no matter success with its Madison 305 model, a what the climate,” says the company’s longer-length cotton topcoat which is management. “For the shirt jacket and both windproof and water-repellent pullover classifications, making them and has a stowaway hood. “It’s a fabusoft and easy to wear are our top prilous coat, especially for men who orities and we expect them to top our commute to work every day,” says own best seller list.” co-owner Bert Pulitzer.

At Aztech Mountain, a popular Another concept that continitem is its Dale of Aspen sweater jacket, ues to sell well is Rainforest’s TherAZTECH MOUNTAIN which combines four-way stretch wamoluxe system, which is being expanded for fall 2018, says president Jack Wu. It’s soft, lightweight, terproof nylon with water-repellent merino wool. “It gives a guy water-repellent and keeps wearers warm through a power pack that something that keeps him warm and lets him look great away from fits into its pockets and has three temperature settings (100, 110 and the slopes,” says Rutgers. “We’re also adding a new thermo-welded 120 degrees). “It’s quite versatile and provides a great alternative to down filled blazer. to our collection.”

Here’s the biggest takeaway for fall ‘18: men might need to make traditional, heavy outerwear,” says Wu. Still, coats are only a part of the current outerwear story, with a little extra room in their closets so they can include multiple pieces retailers and manufacturers stressing the importance of men own- of outerwear in their wardrobe and stop worrying so much about ing lighter layering pieces such as shirt jackets, vests, and pullovers. climate change. ●

Men might need to make room in their closets for more outerwear options.

AVALANCHE

TALLIA

KJUS

SURVIVALON

BOGNER

MR-Mag.com | FEBRUARY 2018 MR

37

{ SPORTSWEAR }

IMAGES COURTESY OF FARFETCH

TALLIA

IN THE STREETS Retailers and consumers are embracing new, high-end styles that display influences from both activewear and streetwear.

BY STEPHEN GARNER

For retailers and consumers alike, sportswear in 2018 is a time of much excitement. Everyone from emerging designers to classic fashion houses is taking what’s happening on the streets and the runways and moving it into stores. And while the word “streetwear” may incite a shudder in some more conventional retailers, the reality is that it isn’t what it used to be in the 1990s.

Designer Tommy Hilfiger recently said some insightful words in an interview with Complex magazine: “The aesthetic has to be a bit sporty, a bit athletic. It’s skate and hip-hop, but it’s not exclusively any one of these things.” The takeaway here? Streetwear isn’t necessarily only rooted in hip-hop as it once was; in fact, the main attribute of the category now is its athletic and sporty characteristics.

That explains why such traditionally buttoned-up collections as Ferragamo, Zegna, Valentino and Berluti have relaxed their lines

38

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

to incorporate sporty elements.

“There's something to be said for brands that are steadfast about holding onto tradition, but it's great to see that they are starting to realize this new way of dressing for the typical man isn't going away,” affirms Michael Fisher, menswear creative director at trend forecasting agency Fashion Snoops. “He wants to feel like he can move and be comfortable without sacrificing sophistication — that's the key. Even though it's become somewhat of a clichéd term, athleisure is an important category. It has affected absolutely everything, including tailored clothing and dress furnishings. Men want pieces that move with them, no matter the situation.”

Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director for Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus, absolutely agrees. “The influence of the athletic world is here to stay. It’s almost its own category now. Athletic-in-

{ SPORTSWEAR } fluenced designers like John Elliott and Off-White have organically created a business model that is very ‘buy now, wear now.’ They build up momentum before it hits the store, which creates an enormous amount of demand, and capitalize on that. It has been great for us.”

A good example of how these sportswear-meets-streetwear brands are driving business is the recent Drop@Barneys event that took place in New York in October. The luxury retailer hosted the first-of-its-kind two-day event -- which featured 30 exclusive capsule collections and product “drops”, designer appearances, unique in-store activations and other programming -- at its Madison Avenue flagship to speak to its newer Millennial-dominated customer that wants this type of product.

Virgil Abloh of Off-White, Mike Amiri of Amiri, Heron Preston, Jerry Lorenzo of Fear Of God, Marcelo Burlon, Greg Lauren and Francesco Ragazzi of Palm Angels were all in attendance and customers were able to shop these new collections alongside the designers. “Blending exclusive launches from the best new designers, one-of-a-kind experiences, and compelling content, food and music, gives our customer a new and innovative way to explore and experience Barneys,” said Daniella Vitale, president and CEO of Barneys New York, at the event.

At Saks Fifth Avenue, customers have been embracing this new movement in sportswear as well. “Our man is really buying into this sports-influenced way of dressing,” says Roopal Patel, senior vice president and fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue.

“Brands like Palm Angels, Off-White, and Ami have been leading this new lifestyle for us for several seasons now,” she adds. “At the same time, heritage houses are now willing to shift the way they are designing by incorporating tech fabrics and sports elements into their lines. The convergence –BRUCE PASK, BERGDORF GOODMAN of the new guard with the new designs from heritage houses are what’s driving this change in sportswear.”

“There is much more fluidity and movement within menswear right now which gives designers an opportunity to play with relaxed shapes in elevated fabrics,” adds Farfetch’s buying and merchandising director, Candice Fragis. “This complements rather than contradicts their traditionally more formal approach and brand DNA. The unprecedented success of brands such as Balenciaga, Yeezy and Gosha Rubchinskiy has exploded since I’ve been here and it continues to thrive.”

So what are the key items that buyers should be aware of going into fall? Pask, Patel, and Fragis all say that the track jacket is a must-have in this category. No wonder everyone from Palm Angels to Perry Ellis, Gucci and Fendi are investing in growing the item.

The other standout trend involves anything emblazoned with logos. Yes, the “status symbol” of the late ‘90s and early aughts is back, and brands are pushing full steam ahead on self-promotion in every item of clothing and accessories they can get their hands on.

Pask adds that designers are also placing more importance on the proportions of silhouettes. “This is the first time in almost 15 years that we’ve seen a movement away from the slim silhouette.

We saw a lot of fuller, wide-leg pants this season as well as flat-front cropped trousers with a fuller volume. Admittedly, a larger silhouette is still for our fashion customer, but we believe that the mainstream crowd will catch on soon.” ●

“This is the first time in almost 15 years that we’ve seen a movement away from the slim silhouette. We saw a lot of fuller, wide-leg pants this season as well as flatfront cropped trousers with a fuller volume.”

40

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

DOWN TOWN SPORT

For fall 2018, elevated sports-inspired pieces merge with luxury wardrobe staples to create a truly modern look.

BY STEPHEN GARNER

| PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANE LAVANCHER

GROOMING BY NATASHA LEIBEL

ON LEFT: Todd Snyder coat, track jacket Dsquared2 pants Loro Piana hat ON RIGHT: Richard James Savile Row coat Frame Denim jacket Todd Snyder sweater Coach 1941 pants

ON LEFT: Eleventy coat, sweater Ermenegildo Zegna bomber PT Pantaloni Torino pants Dior Homme sneakers Richard James Savile Row scarf ON RIGHT: Todd Snyder coat sweater Missoni jacket W.R.K pants Ermenegildo Zegna sneakers Torino belt

DOWN TOWN SPORT

Todd Snyder jacket Eleventy sweater Moncler pants Dior Homme sneakers

MISBHV jacket, scarf Eleventy sweater Wood House pants Golden Goose Deluxe Brand sneakers

DOWN TOWN SPORT

ON LEFT: Fendi coat, sweater Todd Snyder pants ON RIGHT: Eleventy coat, pants Moncler jacket Frame Denim shirt

Eleventy coat, vest Vince sweater Dior Homme pants

DOWN TOWN SPORT

Fendi coat Todd Snyder sweater Golden Goose Deluxe Brand pants

MAGIC LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 12–14, 2018

PROJECT | THE TENTS | FN PLATFORM THE COLLECTIVE | THE FOUNDRY

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 51

52 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

IT’S TIME FOR

MAGIC

From the height of advanced contemporary luxury brands, to the latest trends and emerging designers, MAGIC fuels the business of fashion.

With an impressive selection of ready-to-wear, accessories, footwear, and home goods, you can shop through carefully crafted neighborhoods to make the buying experience as streamlined as possible. Here’s a quick overview of what you can expect this season: PROJECT will be debuting a new neighborhood this show: THE FOUNDRY. This exclusive destination will feature hand-selected apparel, accessories, and home goods for contemporary living and showcase the continuing evolution of the modern gentleman’s elevated lifestyle.

Inspired by its namesake and legendary New York fashion institution, THE TENTS offers a highly curated luxury shopping experience where you can find an unmatched vision of the high-end marketplace focusing on the top luxury and designer contemporary men’s and dual-gender labels.

Located next to PROJECT you’ll find everything from classic collections to lifestyledriven and licensed apparel within THE COLLECTIVE. As a unified men’s fashion platform, THE COLLECTIVE gives buyers unparalleled access to the rapidly growing men’s and young men’s market.

PROJECT WOMENS allows buyers to shop the best emerging and established women’s brands. It is the ultimate destination for contemporary collections, denim and accessories. Within PROJECT WOMENS you can also shop more focused and refined designers at STITCH, offering contemporary sportswear, lifestyle and international brands. While you’re there, take part in brand activations, grab a drink, and mingle with colleagues at the featured LOVE LOUNGE. For emerging designers and unconventional collections POOLTRADESHOW is the place to be. New, quirky, and all-around unique — don’t miss out on the industry’s top breeding ground for art-inspired fashion, accessories, apothecary, and home goods.

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 53

FEBRUARY 12–14, 2018

SOURCING AT MAGIC OPENS FEBRUARY 11

LAS VEGAS & MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTERS

COMPLIMENTARY SHUTTLE SERVICE HOTEL SHUTTLES | ROUTES 1-6

HOTEL NAME

RT

BOARDING LOCATION

Service between official MAGIC hotels and the Las Vegas Convention Center (LVCC) and the Mandalay Bay Convention Center (MBCC).

ARIA Resort & Casino

2

Tour Bus Loading Area

Bellagio

3

Tour Bus Loading Area

Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas

3

Tour Bus Loading Area

Courtyard Marriott – LVCC

--

Walking Distance to LVCC

Delano Las Vegas

--

Walking Distance to MBCC

Embassy Suites LVCC

--

Walking Distance to LVCC

Encore at Wynn Las Vegas

5

At Wynn Las Vegas

SERVICE TO LVCC & MBCC SUNDAY* MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY

8:30 AM – 12:30 PM 7:30 AM – 11:00 AM 7:30 AM – 11:00 AM 7:30 AM – 11:00 AM

RETURN TO HOTELS FROM LVCC

RETURN TO HOTELS FROM MBCC

3:30 PM – 6:30 PM

----------

3:30 PM – 7:15 PM 3:30 PM – 7:00 PM 3:00 PM – 7:00 PM

3:30 PM – 7:00 PM 3:30 PM – 7:00 PM 3:00 PM – 6:00 PM

Four Seasons Las Vegas

--

Walking Distance to MBCC

*Service is provided to/from the LVCC North Hall only.

Hilton Grand Vacations on Paradise

6

Curbside on Karen Ave. (LVCC only)

MBCC/LVCC EXPRESS

Las Vegas Marriott

--

Walking Distance to LVCC

Express service between the MBCC & LVCC.

Luxor Las Vegas

--

Walking Distance to MBCC

Mandalay Bay

--

Walking Distance to MBCC

Mandarin Oriental

2

Aria Tour Bus Loading Area

MGM Grand

1

Grand Garden Entrance

Mirage

4

North Entrance

Monte Carlo

2

Tour Bus Loading Area

New York New York

2

Valet Entrance

Renaissance Las Vegas

--

Walking Distance to LVCC

Residence Inn – LVCC

--

Walking Distance to LVCC

Signature at MGM Grand

1

Grand Garden Entrance

SLS Las Vegas

6

Las Vegas Blvd. Entrance (LVCC only)

Treasure Island

4

Tour Bus Loading Area

Tropicana Las Vegas

1

North Entrance

Trump Hotel Las Vegas

4

Curbside on Fashion Show Dr.

Vdara Hotel & Spa

3

Tour Bus Loading Area

W Hotel

6

Las Vegas Blvd. Entrance (LVCC only)

Westgate Las Vegas

--

Walking Distance to LVCC

Wynn Las Vegas

5

South Gate Bus Area

SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY

EVERY 10 MINUTES

BOARDING LOCATIONS

8:30 AM – 6:30 PM 8:00 AM – 7:15 PM 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM

Bayside Convention Entrance LVCC: Grand Plaza & South Hall 2

THE LOOP AT THE LVCC Service to five (5) key locations around the LVCC campus.

SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY

EVERY 10 MINUTES

BOARDING LOCATIONS AT LVCC

11:30 AM – 6:30 PM 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM

Stop 1: South Hall 1 Bus Area

8:00 AM – 7:00 PM 8:00 AM – 7:00 PM

Stop 2: Grand Plaza Entrance Stop 3: North Road Stop 4: Central Hall 5 Entrance Stop 5: South Hall 2 Entrance

LVCC GOLF CART SERVICE Convenient service between South Halls 1 & 2 and Central Halls. Carts will be operational on Monday and Tuesday from 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM and Wednesday from 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM.

COMPLIMENTARY AIRPORT SHUTTLE SERVICE Airport service will be provided from the LVCC and MBCC on Wednesday from 2:00 PM - 7:00 PM, hourly on the hour. Shuttles depart the South Hall 1 and Grand Plaza Entrances of the LVCC, and the Shark Reef Entrance of the MBCC.

54 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

For hotel shuttle or special needs information, please call 877.899.0986. The shuttle office is open 30 minutes prior to and after the daily shuttle schedule.

SHOW MAPS MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER

LVCC

H

Registration LVCC

LVCC Express

H

Hotel Shuttle

Taxi Pick-Up/Drop Off

Parking

Rideshare

LAS VEGAS CONVENTION CENTER

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 55

KINKROSS!

RALEIGH DENIM WORKSHOP

LIVERPOOL JEANS

56 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

BROOKLYN BRIGADE

FRAME

The most elevated brands in the industry, all under one roof. Taking its namesake from the original New York fashion institution, The TENTS offers an unparalleled merchandising experience, where craft, design, and culture coincide.

BRANDS: 34 Heritage Agave Allen Edmonds Autumn Cashmere Baldwin Bellroy Belstaff Bills Khakis Borsalino Brooklyn Brigade Faherty Brand Frame Good Man Brand Grayers

Greyson Clothiers Handvaerk HESTRA Kinross M. Singer Michael Bastian Gray Label Moore & Giles Mr. Turk MX Paris by Maxime Simoens Paraboot, Inc. Parajumpers Quartz Co Raleigh Denim Workshop Relwen RH45 Group Ltd

S.M.N Scotch & Soda Southwick Clothes Splendid Mills SWIMS Tateossian Theory Trask TWENTYMETRICTONS Vince Vince Footwear W. Kleinberg W.R.K Zachary Prell

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 57

BRUUN AND STENGADE

PROJECT remains the industry’s one-stop shopping experience for all categories of premium contemporary menswear. Boasting the market’s broadest selection of premium denim, tantalizing apparel, and eye-catching footwear and accessories. As ever, PROJECT remains the cornerstone of the men’s market experience.

BRANDS: ‘47 Brand 2(x)ist 2undr 32 Degrees Weatherproof 7 Diamonds Clothing Co., Inc. 7 for all Mankind 98 Coast Av USA Inc. AG Adriano Goldschmied Age of Wisdom Allsize Company AS Alternative Arquilab Aston Leather Astronomy Clothing Azul Siete Barbour Inc. Basic Options Bed Stu Belvedere Bermuda USA Inc Bertigo USA Inc. Bickley + Mitchell Bilodeau Canada Blank NYC

Body Wild Premium Special Standard Boston Traders Inc. Brax Feel Good Bugatchi Uomo Apparel Calvin Klein Inc. Canadian Sweater Co., Ltd. Chaser Chelsey Imports Ltd. Citadin Cocksox Corral Boots Cutter & Buck Daniel Hechter Paris David Eden DL1961 Premium Denim Doce Cero Tres Driftwood EIGHT X Enro/Damon Fidelity Denim Fisher and Baker Fjallraven USA Flag & Anthem LLC Fossil Group French Connection

58 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

A FISH NAMED FRED

French Kick Frye Fun Socks GBG Jewelry Geographical Norway Geronimo Goorin Bros., Inc Gregg Homme HatCo Hawke & Co. Heritage By Report Collection Indian Motorcycle 1901 Isaco International: Papi & Perry Ellis J & M Est. 1850 JACHS NY Jack Adams USA Jack Of Spades Japan Leather and Leather Goods Industries Associations (JLIA) Joe’s Jeans johnnie-O JOMO Juan Arias Justin Cassin JYinstyle socks K. Bell Kahala Sportswear Group Kanata Hand Knits, Inc.

LAMBRETTA

KARDO Kennington Ltd., Inc. Kingston Lounge Now, LLC Knowledge Cotton Apparel Kuhl Lira Clothing Loft 604/Cesarani Lowe Roy and Sons LTD Luchiano Visconti Lucky Brand Jeans Maceoo LLC Madison Creek Outfitters Majestic International Mauri Mavi Mayser Headwear Michel Angelo International Mitchell Evan Mizzen + Main MONDO Mr. Swim n:PHILANTHROPY Nautica NEUW Nick Graham Organization Nifty Genius Old Gringo, Inc. OluKai

Original Paperbacks Oxford Lads by Alan Truong PAIGE Pajar Outerwear Parc City Boot Pendleton PE360 Perry Ellis International Peter Grimm Headwear Powatt Project Social T Projek Raw Public Art Apparel LLC PX Raffi Raga Man Ramatuelle Retro Brand Rhone Ricardo B.H. Robert Graham Rock Revival Rodd & Gunn USA, Inc. Ross Graison Rudsak Collection Save the Duck Scully Inc. Siga International Silver Jeans Co. Skull and Bones, Inc Slate Denim & Co. Smathers And Branson Sneaker Universe Sock It to Me

Sovereign Code Spiritual Gangster Sportailor Stitch Note Stitch’s Surmesur Tailor Vintage Tasc Performance Tee Ink Pty Ltd Telecom Lifestyle Fashion The Levy Group The Normal Brand Tko Evolution Toad&Co Toboggan Canada Tommy Bahama Tommy John Tori Richard Ltd. True Grit UGG Underjeans UNITED BRANDS 2015 S.L. Velvet by Graham & Spencer Vincent D’Amerique Inc. Vineyard Vines Vintage 1946 Weatherproof ® Williamson-Dickie Mfg. XABI Jeans LA

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 59

MX PARIS BY MAXIME SIMOENS

60 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

RHONE

RAGA MAN

NEW & NOTEWORTHY BRANDS: Ledbury Akademiks Baldwin Bellfield Bellroy Belstaff Billy Reid Bioworld Merchandising Borsalino Cherchez La Ghost Chubbies Company 81-Modern Culture

Cotton Heritage Distortion ECKO Unltd Handvaerk Jean Shop Justin Cassin Kangol Lagos Leff Amsterdam Live Nation Miggy Wear Mossy Oak MX Paris by Maxime Simoens

Ocean Current Parajumpers Raga Man Rhone Rudsak Collection SouthPole Surmesur Toad & Co Tommy John Ugg Worthiness

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM

61

PARABOOT, INC.

FN Platform is the home for all things men’s footwear at MAGIC. Classic English brogues to genre-bending sneakers are all expertly merchandised to give you the greatest selection of men’s footwear in market.

BRANDS: Allen Edmonds Bed Stu Belvedere Corral Boots David Eden Fennix Italy Frye

Harbor Footwear Group, Ltd. Johnston & Murphy Mauri Old Gringo, Inc. OluKai Paraboot, Inc. Parc City Boot

62 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

Radii Footwear Sneaker Universe SWIMS Trask Vince Footwear Vlado Footwear

DE PIED FERME

The Foundry will see its second seasonal iteration at MAGIC, in Las Vegas.

Originated by our Fashion Director, Tommy Fazio, as a place to explore and expand upon the cultural and aesthetic influences the modern gentleman lifestyle. Discover new brands, new categories, and a new perspective for your men’s assortment in The Foundry.

BRANDS: Worthiness.

De Pied Ferme Rustico Wood Underwear

Anthony Urso Leff Amsterdam Nokturnal, LLC HBI Inc. slimTECH GEAR

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 63

YOUNG MEN’S, LICENSING, TAILORED AND FURNISHINGS BRANDS: 247 Inc. 4 of a Kind, LLC 7 Souls Aayat Clothier LLC Ace & Reve Clothing, Inc. Ace Watches Inc. Actex International Corp.

American Bazi American Classics, Inc. American Exchange Apparel Angels New York US Inc. Aquarius, Ltd. Artesania, Inc. Assante Designs LLC Aurelio Garcia Imports B.B. Designs USA LLC Bagazio Barabas Bare Fox USA Corp.

Bassiri A DBA of Zanjan, Inc. Bayside - AST Sportswear Inc. Beautiful Giant Inc. Beijing Trade International Exhibition Co., Ltd.

Bella + Canvas Berlioni Collection Berragamo / Carrucci Bespoke by Neo NYC Bioworld Merchandising BOHIO by jmp Bonafini Collection Bong Hwa USA Inc. Brand Q, Inc. Broner Hat & Glove Co. Bulltees Burnside/Scope C-Life Group, Ltd. Calhoun Sportswear Capas Headwear Carreli Imports, Inc. Caviar Dremes Chaps CHL TRADING Choice Cap, Inc. Chor Concorde Apparel Copper Rivet Coronation Apparel Company LLC Cotton Heritage

64 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

Dennis Mondego Desen Enterprise DGA Tees, Inc. Distortion Diversified Apparel Don Jonathan Inc. Dorfman Pacific Dream World International, Inc. Drew Brady Company Inc. Dubal Bros.

Dynasty Apparel Corp.

Elie Balleh Evolution In Design F/X Fusion, LLC Fashion Accessory Bazaar LLC Faux Real Fennix Italy Fifth Sun Five Star Accessories Floats Eyewear Flyp Sportswear FOCO Foxfire, Inc. G.K. Eurosport, Inc. Garment Group, Inc.

Gianfranco Giorginni, Inc. Giorgio Cosani, Inc. Globe Footwear Corp.

Gold Leaf GR Clothing Group, Inc. Graefen Corporation USA H & Seo Group, Inc./Mad Blue H3 Halifax Harbor Footwear Group, Ltd. Haselson International Trading, Inc. Hawks Bay Collection Inc. Henry & William Corp Hollywood The Jean People House of Lords Hypnotic Hats, Ltd. I-Fe Apparel, Inc. Imani Uomo Impact Merchandising Importex Group Innovative Sourcing, Inc. Inserch By Merc U.S.A., Inc. Island Footwear, Inc. IZ-Direct Enterprise Limited Jayson & Paul Corp.

JFH Group International, Inc. K & S Sportswear, Inc. K&B Trading Kings Republic Clothing Klotho, Inc. La Strada Fashions, Inc. Lagos Laid-Back by High Range Designs Landes Global

LCR Black Edition Live Nation Merchandise Los Altos Boots Makobi - Knockout Manzini Imports Marenzio Group Marina Imports Mark Fred MARQUIS Maxxsel Apparel Inc. Maxy Trading Corp.

Michael Gerald Ltd. Miggy Wear Mischief International Inc. Mission Clothing Inc. ML Menstyle Ltd. Moderno Jeans Mojito Collection MONOBAIK, INC. Monogram International, Inc. Mossy Oak Mr. Hawaii Inc. Neeso Jeans New Top, Inc. New World Creation New York Hat & Cap Co., Inc. New York Jewelry Niche Marketing & Sales, Inc. Niko Leather dba De-Niko Nothin’ But Net Clothing Co., Inc. Ocean Current Odd Sox One Resolution Clothing Perruzo Ent. Inc. Platini Jeans Co.

PNW (USA) Inc. Prestige QINGDAO DAICHANG CAPS CO.,LTD Radii Footwear Rawyalty Apparel, Inc. Rebel Jeans Regal Wear Reliq, Inc. Renoir Fashion Inc. Retail Pro/BHD Info Systems Retro Paris Rise As One Robert J. Clancey, Ltd. Rockmount Ranch Wear Mfg. Rothco Royal Blue Apparel/BM Merchandising Co., Ltd. Royal Shoes USA Salesone Int. San Malone Enterprises, Inc. Santiki Trading Co. Savvy Sox Sean Jacob Inc. Selah USA, Inc. Shaf International Inc. Silversilk Group Southpole / WT02 Spazio Stacy Adams Starting 5 Apparel Statement Clothing Inc. Steven Land Footwear Steven Land Neckwear Steven Land Suits Suits America, Inc. T H Sunglass Corp.

T.R. Premium TAA Apparel The Suit Co. Time International Corp.

Tipsy Elves Titan Merchandise Trade In Motion, Inc. Trans Pacific Wholesale, Inc. Trendy Jendy Corp.

Triveni Inc. TW & Company Inc. Unique Wear Urgent Gear, Inc. Victorious Vinci Enterprise Corp.

Vittorino Vlado Footwear Westside Accessories, Inc. Wolverine XPC LLC Xtreme Stylz/Bruno Capelo Zota USA Inc.

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 65

SWELL FELLOW

PROJEK RAW

THE MONTREAL EXPERIENCE Presented in partnership with MMODE, PROJECT Las Vegas is proud to showcase the innumerable sartorial talents which hail from Montreal, Quebec. The Canadian cultural capital has developed a knack for creating hard-wearing winter apparel, from outerwear to luxe base layers. Be sure to take advantage of this dual-gender exhibition across the PROJECT show floor.

VINCENT D’AMERIQUE

66 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

THE 2 4 / 7 on line fa shio n trad e sho w

We bring the Biggest names in fashion to you

Shop the brands of magic at your convenience, at home or on the road. Speak to a ShopTheFloor specialist or visit s h o pt h efloo r . co m t o g e t s ta r t e d .

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 67

BRANDSTAGRAM

10 BRANDS TO FOLLOW ON INSTAGRAM Without question, our brands have a presence everywhere they go. This is doubly true for social media, and we couldn’t be more proud of our social-savvy PROJECT brands. Check out a few of our favorites here, give them a follow, and enjoy some of the best menswear content in your feed daily!

GOOD MAN BRAND

NIFTY GENIUS

@goodmanbrand | 13.4k followers

@niftygenius | 33.4k followers

HANDVAERK @handvaerk | 13.9k followers

68 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

RELWEN

FISHER AND BAKER

@relwen | 1,025 followers

@ďŹ sherandbaker | 1,394 followers

RH45 @rh45co | 2,366 followers

TWENTYMETRICTONS @twentymetrictons | 635 followers

GRAYERS

HESTRA

SAVE THE DUCK

@grayers | 56.4k followers

@hestragloves | 16.6k followers

@save_the_duck | 21.3k followers

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 69

#BLOGGER PROJECT The original social media experience returns to MAGIC Las Vegas. Join our host, Marcus Troy for a masterclass in bringing the newest styles from show floor to real life. While you’re here, stop by the #BLOGGERPROJECT photo studio and strike a pose for renowned menswear photographer, Naskademini.

UBMFASHION.COM C OM O | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MA MAGIC AGI A AG GC GI 70 UBMFASHION.C

PROJECT PARTY

AT MARQUEE NIGHTCLUB Monday, February 12. Doors open 10:30PM. Celebrate with us at the party of the season The Official PROJECT Party will be at MARQUEE NIGHTCLUB, with performances by Ghostface Killah and Raekwon. With the reputation of being one of MAGIC’s biggest parties, this one never disappoints, especially with its killer tunes and epic headliners. Bring your badge for admittance, the earlier the better, and dress to impress: no hats, t-shirts or sneakers.

CENTRAL PARK POWERED BY NETSUITE AND SKYPAD Sit, relax, have a drink, and network with The Blogger PROJECT at The Central Park Lounge.

Stop by the Netsuite booth for a complimentary drink voucher and the Skypad booth for a coffee voucher and stay for the PROJECT Panels to hear from influential guest speakers.

THE COLLECTIVE SPACE Daily donuts and coffee 9am-10am, day one and two afternoon cocktail hour 4pm-5pm, and a place to congregate outside the booth. This area will be the main hub of The Collective with special guest appearances and panel sessions.

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 71

PHOTO SHOP

PARAJUMPERS BUGATTI

BUGATTI

72 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

BRUUN AND STENGADE

BOLD OUTERWEAR This season, let your outerwear do the talking while you stay warm and toasty. With a multitude of brands producing the best outerwear to-date, allow yourself to indulge and invest in pieces that will be sure to get you noticed – from topcoats rich in heritage tradition to textured overcoats that add an element of interest to your outfit, or technical pieces that provide function and fashion, don’t be afraid to explore new ways to stay cozy.

MAURITIUS

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 73

PHOTO SHOP

ADVANCED OUTDOORS Tech materials and fabrics have found its way from activewear to almost every category of essentials a man needs in his wardrobe.

This season outdoor apparel finds inspiration from arctic exploration and the luxe après ski lifestyle and brings traditional adventure-wear to the city streets. Treat yourself to the benefits of technical items that feature wind-stopping fabrics, sealed seams, and a host of other accoutrements to get you through anything Mother Nature throws at you, wherever you may be.

FISHER AND BAKER

MX PARIS BY MAXIME SIMOENS

BRUUN AND STENGADE

74 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

32 DEGREES

NORTH56°4

PARAJUMPERS

BUGATTI

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 75

PHOTO SHOP

NEUW MAVI

RALEIGH DENIM WORKSHOP

76 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

FRAME

PURE DENIM Denim will remain as vital and versatile as it ever has in the coming year, so take the time now to invest in brands that stand the test of time and can handle the wear and tear of a modern man’s life. Denim in its rawest form will never cease to attract purists, while the variety of washes on offer in the market today have elevated denim from off-duty-only to a must for any occasion.

RALEIGH DENIM WORKSHOP

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 77

PHOTO SHOP

BUGATTI

NEW MINIMALISM For those that embrace a toned-down color palette, there are many new ways to adopt a minimalist look.

Focus on fit and fabric and exploit the quiet elegance that comes with knowing that it’s just as important to know when to tone it down as when to turn up.

CHASER

78 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

2 UNDR

BRUUN AND STENGADE

RAGA MAN

RHONE

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 79

PHOTO SHOP

MX PARIS BY MAXIME SIMOENS

RAGA MAN A FISH NAMED FRED

BROOKLYN BRIGADE

80 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

DE PIED FERME

FARM TO CLOSET The maker-movement continues its hold on the menswear community’s collective imagination. This season, channel that creative energy into something made a bit more bold and colorful. Eye-catching, oneof-a-kind prints mesh seamlessly with hand-crafted details and accessories.

MOORE AND GILES

MAGIC | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | UBMFASHION.COM 81

MAGIC LAS VEGAS FEBRUARY 12–14, 2018 PROJECT | THE TENTS | FN PLATFORM THE COLLECTIVE | THE FOUNDRY

82 UBMFASHION.COM | FEBRUARY 12-14, 2018 | MAGIC

g e t a s n e a k p e e k at t h e

latest fashion collections for wholesale visit shopthefloor.com >

{ MRQ }

CHASING THE DREAM

Success secrets from Eleventy founder Marco Baldassari.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

A little background on how you launched this hot brand?

I started in the fashion industry as an agent and fashion consultant.

After several years, I decided to realize my dream with my best friends Paolo Zuntini (in charge of the woman’s collection) and Andrea Scuderi (who heads operations). I need to thank so much my parents who always told me to do the work that you love.

What inspires your designs?

People inspire me, especially young people. I get my best ideas from the street. I’m 48 but I feel much younger, in part because I dress so differently than the previous generation. Clothes reflect an attitude.

What were the obstacles launching Eleventy in the U.S.? What mistakes did you make and how did you resolve them?

I don’t believe in mistakes: I view every experience as an opportunity to learn, therefore of value. Eleventy was introduced in the U.S. market as a moderate Italian contemporary brand. Listening to retailer feedback, this was not the best positioning for us so we elevated our quality and design and three years after our inaugural season, we are recognized as a top luxury brand, positioned adjacent to well-established prestige collections. We are known as the prime example of New Office Casual: our style is a modern version of “Sport-Tailoring,” allowing men to feel comfortable while looking professional, in and out of the office.

Where will your growth come from?

We just celebrated the opening of our first mono-brand store, a partnership with a great Toronto retailer. But we’re still focused on distribution in the best department and specialty stores in North America. It’s these multi-brand stores that have the best people and the best customer relationships.

You visit a lot of stores: what advice would you give to retailers?

I visit North American stores as often as possible since they’re the first to experiment with new ideas. After each visit, I feel re-energized and excited by stores doing things in creative ways that provoke emotion. Some standouts: the newly renovated Holt Renfrew stores in Vancouver and Toronto, Nordstrom’s new store design concept, Martin Patrick 3 (an atmosphere that tempts you to stay for a while), and Boyd’s, embarking on a renovation that most stores would be too intimidated to undertake, but they’re thinking ahead for the next generations (and they’re giving a prime position to an Eleventy shop-in-shop!) These retailers continue to introduce new brands as well as focus on bringing new customers to their stores.

What would be your most important piece of advice?

Re-focus on visual merchandising. For us, this is just as important as the product. In our business, you eat first with your eyes. ●

84

MR FEBRUARY 2018 | MR-Mag.com

MR FEBRUARY 2018

T H E ME NSW E AR I NDU STRY’S MAGAZI NE / T H E S P O R T S W E A R I S S U E

A UBM PUBLICATION

Vol. 29 No 2