MR Magazine: August 2016

AUGUST 2016

WHAT TO BUY AT THE VEGAS SHOWS

HOLD ON! Making the best of a bumpy ride...

Project Las Vegas

© 2016 WeatherproofVintage.com NYC Showroom 212.695.7716

Spring Summer 2017 © 2016 www.weatherproofvintage.com 212.695.7716

MAKING IT PERSONAL Carrying the right accessories can

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make or break a retailer’s season.

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TOM JAMES TURNS 50

The direct sales concept started

by Spencer Hays can provide valuable lessons to the rest of the tailored clothing industry.

“Increasingly active lifestyles among all demographics have had its most progressive effect not on the clothes we wear but the accessories we carry.”

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JUMPSTARTING JEANS

Retailers and brands have a variety of innovative ideas on how to make denim desirable to consumers in the coming seasons.

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ACTIVE IMAGINATION

Performance-driven activewear offers comfort, fit, functionality and style, whether you are working out or going out.

Contents

Also in this issue: 5 Editor’s Letter 8 Ones to Watch 10 Notebook 12 Over It! 14 Spring Trends 16 Technology 35 Accessories Archetypes 42 Fashion 72 How Ronny Wurtzburger Works

CUSTOM BICYCLE; Bern HELMET; Robert Geller BRIEFCASE; Brunello Cucinelli JACKET; Eton SCARF; Troubadour KEYHOLDER; Bottega Veneta WALLET; Yael Sonia BRACELETS; Reebok SNEAKERS; Art of Shaving TRAVEL KIT; Swims UMBRELLA; D R Harris HAIRBRUSH; Journeyman DEODORANT STICK, SPRAY; Cambridge Satchel Company SATCHEL; Want Les Essentials BACKPACK; Ravazzolo MONKSTRAPS; Eton POCKET SQUARE; Larsson & Jennings WATCH; Carrera SUNGLASSES.

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EDITORIAL EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ______________________________________________________________________________________________Karen Alberg Grossman (212) 710-7422 KARENA@MR-MAG.COM MANAGING EDITOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________Brian Scott Lipton (212) 710-7459 BRIANL@MR-MAG.COM FASHION DIRECTOR ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Buckley (212) 710-7424 WILLIAMB@MR-MAG.COM WEB EDITOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Stephen Garner (212) 710-7436 STEPHENG@MR-MAG.COM EDITOR-AT-LARGE _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Michael Macko MICHAELM@MR-MAG.COM CONTRIBUTING WRITER _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________William Kissel (805) 693-5838

ADVERTISING PUBLISHER EMERITUS _______________________________________________________________________________________________Stuart Nifoussi (212) 710-7407 STUNIFOO@MR-MAG.COM PUBLISHER ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin (212) 710-7414 LIZETTEC@MR-MAG.COM ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER _____________________________________________________________________________________________Michelle Brown (212) 710-7413 MICHELLEB@MR-MAG.COM DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS __________________________________________________________________________________________Samuel Johnson (212) 710-7421 SAMUELJ@MR-MAG.COM ADVERTISING COORDINATOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________Donna Doyle (212) 710-7417 DONNAD@MR-MAG.COM

ART/PRODUCTION CREATIVE DIRECTOR ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Hans Gschliesser DESIGNER __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Jean-Nicole Venditti DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION _________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Peggy Eadie EDITORIAL/SALES OFFICE _______________________________________________________________________________1384 BROADWAY, 11TH FL., NEW YORK, NY 10018 (212) 686-4412 FAX: (212) 686-6821 BUSINESS OFFICE __________________________________________________________________________________________________50 DAY STREET, NORWALK, CT 06854 (203) 853-6015 FAX: (203) 852-8175

ADVISORY BOARD Mario Bisio __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, MARIO’S Wayne Drummond ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Doug Ewert ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________CEO, TAILORED BRANDS Dan Farrington _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________GMM, MITCHELLS RETAIL GROUP Dan Leppo ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________SVP/GMM, BLOOMINGDALE’S Ken Giddon___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________OWNER, ROTHMANS Jonathan Greller _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________PRESIDENT, OUTLETS, HUDSON’S BAY COMPANY Tom Ott ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________VP/GMM, SAKS FIFTH AVENUE David Witman _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________EVP/GMM, NORDSTROM

BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC. CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Christine Sullivan VICE PRESIDENT, MENSWEAR _______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________Lizette Chin

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MR ISSN 1049-6726 is published six times a year (January, February, April/May, July, August and November) by Business Journals, Inc. 50 Day Street, Norwalk, CT 06854. Periodical Postage paid at Norwalk, CT and at additional mailing office. Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 143678. Subscription for the U.S. $34 one year, $53 two years; Canada $63 one year, $95 two years (Canadian currency). Foreign $102, Air Mail. Single copies: U.S. $4.00; Foreign $4.00 plus postage. Claims for undelivered copies not honored after 30 days from publication (90 days for overseas). ©2016 Business Journals, Inc. Address correction requested. Postmaster send address changes to MR, P.O. Box 47370, Plymouth, MN 55447-0370. Printed in the USA.

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{ EDITORIAL }

REALITY CHECK, PLEASE How menswear retailers can bridge the gap between runway fantasy and stuff they can sell.

“ARE YOU KIDDING ME?” was my husband’s reaction to a recent New York Times article on New York Fashion Week: Men’s. He was referring to the suits with shorts, bold printed sportcoats, cropped pants and creative but hardly wearable (at least by suburban accountants) outfits that were featured in Guy Trebay’s excellent review on July 14th. (I loved that Trebay wrote about the Black Lives Matter protests outside Skylight Clarkson Sq, thereby tying men’s fashion to meaningful social issues, and making Fashion Week more relevant than the fashion itself.)

Although I rarely mention my husband and men’s fashion in the same breath, his reaction is typical of a large number of American men from all age groups who don’t quite relate to the fantasy world that menswear designers work so hard to create. Don’t get me wrong: I support these efforts and the press generated, and applaud fashion that provides both escape from reality and direct confrontation with it. At last month’s shows, I particularly loved Joseph Abboud’s ode to Ernest Hemingway (soft linen suits in shades of ivory and tan, stovepipe trousers, desertbleached footwear, safari-inspired hats and bags) and Nick Graham’s tribute to Havana in the 1950s (tropical printed suits in vibrant florals and graphic designs, seersucker and madras, sexy showgirls shaking it up to live samba music.) But the challenge seems to be translating the best ideas from the best designers to a level that more mainstream guys can understand and appreciate.

Case in point: I recently interviewed NBC sportscaster Dave Briggs, who is on his way to Rio de Janiero to cover tennis at the Olympics. (According to NBC, the Rio Olympics will be the biggest media event in history, with 6,755 hours of programming.) While he was delighted with his blue linen side-vented sportcoat (and the rest of his stylish American-made clothing wardrobe by Hardwick, crafted in Cleveland, Tennessee, to be worn with beautiful ties by David Donahue, made in NYC), we ended up in a heated discussion over pant lengths.

“I hate the new styles that barely cover the ankle; I’ll continue to wear my trousers with a slight break,” he told me, somewhat defiantly.

So here’s a suggestion as we head off to the Las Vegas shows to shop for spring ‘17 fashion. Why not cater to your traditional customers but gently lead them to a bit more fashion, inspired by the runways but toned down for reality? By offering too many basics, you’re putting your customers to sleep. A standard retail rule at the beginning of each season is to rank your vendors by performance, and drop the least profitable 10 percent, thereby opening up dollars for new. In our current precarious climate, why not up the ante to 15 or 20 percent invested in fresh ideas from new makers? Why not take a (perhaps temporary) break from your old standby resources that are no longer producing the margins you need?

I guarantee you’ll find tons of great stuff in the aisles at Project and MRket. See you in Las Vegas!

PHOTO BY KEITH BARRACLOUGH PHOTOGRAPHY

Why not lead your traditional customers to a bit more fashion, inspired by the runways but toned down for reality?

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2016 MR

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An Open Letter to the Fashion Community With seismic shifts occurring in our industry, we felt it appropriate to state clearly our mission at UBM Fashion Group: to help your business thrive. We know there are a lot of changes happening in our industry— retailer shifts, digital developments, and evolving seasonal trends.

But we also know that fashion is as important to our lives and the economy as ever before. That’s why we at UBM Fashion Group want to work with the industry to respond to these changes and create opportunities for everyone moving forward.

For those of you unfamiliar with UBM Fashion Group, our company, UBM plc, is recognized as one of the world’s leading show producers and we have chosen to focus our entire strategy on events. We’ve taken our passion for events into fashion, uniting the industry’s best talent and most dynamic shows to create UBM Fashion Group, encompassing MAGIC, ENK, and the BJI portfolio of shows.

The unification of these established events will translate into stronger shows for both buyers and brands. To begin, this August, we’ve consolidated MAGIC and BJI’s Las Vegas shows from three venues to two so retailers can spend less time traveling and more time connecting with brands; and all attendees will now be able to access all MAGIC and BJI shows in Las Vegas with just one badge.

As the leading organizer of fashion tradeshows, it’s our responsibility to help the industry grow and prosper. Our collective goal remains as crucial as ever: to bring together great brands and retailers in superbly merchandised shows, provide superior customer service, and ultimately present end consumers with the best apparel, footwear, accessories, and fashion products.

Please stay tuned as we continue to make improvements that will enhance your show experience and help move your business forward.

In the meantime, we encourage you to join us in our mission—to help your business, and this industry that we love, thrive.

Please feel free to reach out to your personal contacts or info@ubmfashion.com. We look forward to collaborating with you.

Sincerely, UBM Fashion Group

©2016 WEATHERPROOF® 212.695.7716

PA C K A B L E weatherproofgarment.com

{ ONES { CLOTHING TO WATCH} }

We use our own pattern from the 1950s. I found that this one pattern, while the most laborious, fits the best.

Shirt Tales CORRIDOR NYC

Corridor founder Dan Snyder found his way into the menswear business via an unlikely day job. Working in the intelligence community during the day and attending tailoring school by night, Snyder fell in love with the craft and started to make shirts for his family and friends. “I never intended to start a business, but more and more people wanted my shirts,” says Snyder.

So what makes Corridor’s shirts, which retail from $150 to $165, so desirable? “The fit of the shirts is what makes them special,” explains Snyder. “We don’t use darts or box pleats. We use our own pattern from the 1950s. I found that this one pattern, while the most laborious, fits the best. It has three concave panels so the shirt gets the shape from the back and from the side. It’s more adaptable and fits more body types.”

Corridor is now in about 70 stores all over the world, but Snyder insists on only selling to independent specialty stores, such as Goose Barnacle in Brooklyn, Tradesmen LA in Los Angeles, Rand + Statlerin in San Francisco, and Tanner Goods in Portland.

Moreover, the business has grown to offer pants, overshirts, outerwear, and soft suiting, and more categories are coming for spring/summer 2017. “This season we are partnering up with Victory to produce a special enzymewashed sneaker that I’m really excited about, and we are also introducing women’s shirting for the first time. –SG

Easy Does It DDUGOFF

Designer Daniel DuGoff founded his menswear label, DDUGOFF, in the fall of 2014 with the vision of creating garments that are easy-to-wear for the creative professional.

Three years later, the brand is in such boutiques as Steven Alan, Le Point, and American Rag and he was recently tapped by the CFDA to be a part of its Incubator program, where young designers receive guidance for three years in order to build their business. “Not only does the CFDA connect me to people that are experts in their field, but the amount of time that these experts are willing to spend with me to explain things to me is amazing,” says DuGoff.

After an internship with menswear designer Patrick Ervell, DuGoff moved over to Marc Jacobs where he worked his way up to become the woven technical designer for Marc by Marc Jacobs men’s line. With these learned skills, DuGoff stepped out to build his made in the USA brand.

“Buyers always seem to respond well to the prints that change season-to-season, but what people really like are the fits,” admits DuGoff. “There is always a print in the collection that is a little out there, but it adds excitement to the rail. We also do a good job with fabric development and working with a range of textures and materials.”

DuGoff also reiterates that his collection, which retails between $220 and $500, isn’t designed to break the bank. “I aim to be a guy’s aspirational yet accessible brand,” he says. “My customer shouldn’t have to miss rent to buy a piece from my collection.” –SG

“I aim to be a guy’s aspirational yet accessible brand.”

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{ ONES { CLOTHING } } TO WATCH

Hot Pants BRAX

Why is that the largest trouser brand in all of Europe took 128 years to launch in America?

Perhaps it’s because they were waiting for the perfect partner!

“We’re very excited to showcase our brand to the U.S. market and believe the combined marketing and distribution expertise of Throat Threads Apparel and Brax will provide the perfect infrastructure,” says Nils Schrahe, International Sales Director of Brax, the German pants manufacturer famous for its fashion, fit and use of exclusive materials.

And how is it that it took Throat Threads Apparel, the company that’s nurtured and developed many powerful brands in the Canadian market (including John Varvatos, Robert Graham and Brax) 23 years to enter the U.S.? “We believe Brax, the sophisticated-casual trouser brand, is the perfect opportunity to launch Throat Threads Apparel into the U.S. market,” explains Russ Fearon, Throat Threads CEO. Philippe Binda, president of Throat Threads, describes Brax trousers as “updated, European and refined, perfectly on trend for today’s relaxed tailored lifestyle.” Known for their exclusive stretch fabrics (woven in Italy and Germany), great fit, consistent quality and strong in-stock programs, Brax pants are available in several fits (regular, modern, slim), fabulous colors and a broad range of waist and inseam sizes. Spring 2017 offerings are lightweight (kapok fiber is 10 times lighter than cotton) and performance-driven. (Suggested retails are $200-$250).

“Our marketing focus will include product knowledge seminars with all of our retail partners,” says Fearon, “followed by national advertising as the brand gains market share in the States.” Check them out in Vegas at PROJECT. –KAG

Spring 2017 offerings are lightweight (kapok fiber is 10 times lighter than cotton) and performance-driven.

Solid Foundation GOOD MAN BRAND

“The brand’s primary focus is to compete as an entry-level lifestyle luxury brand with a strong focus on the millennial demographic”

Good Man Brand was founded in March 2015 by four partners: Tom Bonomo, Dean Holly, Scott Bonomo and NFL star Russell Wilson. In its first season, Good Man Brand launched in the top 15 doors at Nordstrom and Trunk Club, and in 60 of the finest specialty stores nationwide.

“The brand’s primary focus is to compete as an entry-level lifestyle luxury brand with a strong focus on the millennial demographic,” says Scott Bonomo, co-founder and president of Good Man Brand. “Our core mission is to incorporate comfort into every product we manufacture and position the brand within the inner circle of the men’s modern contemporary market. The modern consumer is looking for relevant, comfortable fashion that fits both him and his busy life, and products that are versatile and high-quality at a great value.”

Good Man Brand isn’t just out to make money; Wilson insists that the brand is focused on paying it forward. With every item sold to each retailer, Good Man Brand is donating three dollars to the Why Not You Foundation.

“One thing I’ve learned is that small changes really do add up,” says Wilson. “It’s true with training and practicing. It’s been true with the Why Not You Foundation—we take on these huge issues, one person at a time. And I think it’ll be true with Good Man Brand. When you look and feel good, you’re ready to do good. Three bucks at a time may not seem like much, but those donations are going to add up fast, and we’re going to make a real difference in kids’ lives. If enough people start thinking this way, we can change the world. I really believe that.” –SG

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2016 MR

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{ NOTEBOOK }

PETER RICHTER

Here’s how menswear’s movers fit a vacation into their busy summers.

BY MICHAEL MACKO

I

f you work in menswear, you know that while many people are planning two weeks in Italy or weekends in the Hamptons as their summer getaways, fashion folk are worrying about first protos, look books, getting orders in, and attending trade shows.

So how do you take a summer vacation when you work in menswear? As you can see from the image of Jonathan Skow (Mr. Turk) diving into the Danube, his solution was a pre-market trip through Europe that ended in Capri.

Here’s what some other menswear movers had to say about how they find time to get away.

Josh Moore and Odini Gogo (Res Ipsa): “We don’t really take a summer vacation, but we are fortunate that our brand takes us to some pretty cool spots. This summer, we have trunk shows and events in Highlands, NC, Nantucket (twice) and the Hamptons. When people see our Instagram account they think we’re always on vacation, and because we love what we do it feels that way!”

Jim McKenry (The Bird Dog Group): “My wife, Lele, and I go to Pitti Uomo in June, which this year also included a trip to Venice. I also sneak away either before or after MRket Vegas to Lele’s mom’s place in Maine for a weekend in August. But it doesn’t really matter because I end up on the phone or email the entire time I am away.”

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Kevin Harter (Bloomingdale’s): “Summer doesn’t start for me until August. This year, I am going to Berlin and Copenhagen with the hubby and ending up in Paris so I can cover Maison Objet. We also take lots of weekend excursions with the kids.”

weekend then we usually go someplace new that we have never been. This year, we will go to Capri and Ravello along the Amalfi Coast.”

Michael Bastian: “What I do is usually take a couple of weekends in the Hamptons, maybe a week either in upstate New York or Maine with my family, and then after the shows in Las Vegas, I try to tack on at least a long weekend at my favorite place, The Arizona Biltmore in Phoenix, to just chill and drop out. I know it doesn’t make sense using the words ‘chill’ and ‘Phoenix’ in the same sentence, particularly in August, but I grab any chance I get to go there.”

Andy Salzer (Hiro Clark): “I don’t leave LA in the summer. We have summer all year round, so sometimes the season will pass before I even notice. When I need to escape, I get in my car and just drive. Sometimes if I go long enough it feels like going around the world and back.”

George Sotelo (Thorsun): “I’m taking an actual holiday during the first week of August.

I am going to Pugila for a few days then Greece.”

John Bartlett: “I’m heading to the Chianti region to meet up with friends from Chicago, Capetown, and Florence. The eye has to travel as they say!”

Eric Jennings (Saks Fifth Avenue): “I take some time off between Europe and New York Fashion Week to go to Provincetown. And then I take off the last two weeks in August after the Vegas shows. We always go to Mykonos for a

Raffi Shaya (Raffi): “Summer vacation is hard for people in our industry; however, usually I travel during the July 4th week visiting Israel and Italy with my wife. We always try to visit new places and are inspired by other cultures, people and beaches.”

David Hart: “My girlfriend Shelby and I are waiting until October and taking a trip to Corsica.”

Michael Saiger (Miansai): “Every summer I try to take at least a week off. I have been planning a trip to Sicily for the last two months. I am going with my girlfriend and a group of friends. We rented a 4-bedroom catamaran and will be sailing to the islands. And I always like to go to Cape Cod and Montauk for a couple of long weekends as well, plus I want to plan a long weekend trip to the Faroe Islands.

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{ INSIGHTS }

Over IT!

What items and trends in fashion, food and popular culture have you had enough of?

We asked our MR readers. buttoned up or extremely casual. A combination of the two is really the best way to go.

Guys should leave the t-shirt and jeans at home until the weekend.’’

Millennials, for sure.’’

Tom Eckrich, VP, DMM Lord & Taylor

Tom Nystrom, DMM, Belk

“I’m totally over the phrase ‘Men are the new women!’, smoothies, and CNN coverage of the candidates!”

Jeff Farbstein, EVP of Merchandising, Harry Rosen

“I think the word ‘curated’ has been vastly overused and quite frankly, I am ‘over it.’”

“Amish Cool, aka the invisible tie.”

Adam Schoenberg, founder, Hook & Albert

‘‘Wearing too many trends at once. CHOOSE A LANE, damn it!"

Erin Hawker, Owner and Founder, Agentry PR

Jeffrey Roberts, owner European Fashion Group

“Humidity.”

Zachary Prell, designer

Michael Fisher, Creative Director of Menswear, Fashion Snoops

Shane Fonner, Creative Director, Palmiers du Mal

“I’m over people saying ‘tailored clothing is dead.’

It’s not.”

“I’ve had enough of ‘Soul Cycle is my life,’ New York City real estate prices, my growing belly, and Hipsters.”

Tom Ott, GMM, Men’s Saks Fifth Avenue

Spencer Singer, Sales Manager, Project – The Tents

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‘‘I’d be a happy guy if we had a reprieve on camouflage and gluten-free everything, and a permanent ban on Shonda Rimes TV shows, extreme skinny jeans for dudes, square-toe shoes and ill-fitting suits. Is that asking for too much?’’

MR AUGUST 2016 | MR-Mag.com

“Studs on men’s shoes and clothing.”

Takuya Suzuki, Co-founder, TakuyaDuncan

‘‘Casual Friday all week long.

Somewhere a trend started that office style had to either be completely

Allyson Lewis, VP of Merchandising and Design, The Tie Bar

Millennials, but passe for Boomers?

With fallen arches, why am I forced to wear heels to the next block party or neighbor’s cookout?

And could someone please come up with a better name for business casual, although ‘covert comfort’ is my current favorite.”

Lisa Slesinger, Larrimors

I’m over fashion for the sake of fashion.’’

Dylan Granger, Creative Director, Rideau

“I am over ‘It is what it is.’ I would rather work through the situation and find a better outcome then settle for mediocrity.”

Craig D. Wertheim, Vice President, Scabal

“I’ve had enough of guys wearing clothes that don’t fit. Menswear is about permanent style and fit, not temporary fashion trends.”

“Emojis. I know ‘brevity is the soul of wit,’ but can we at least use a couple of words to express ourselves?”

Ken Giddon – CEO, Rothman's

Richard Dayhoff, menswear and underwear designer

‘‘Why are Birkenstocks on trend for

SHUTTERSTOCK

“I’m over the election (although officially, it’s barely gotten started.)”

Spring 2017 Flip Flop Collection

www.thesgcompanies.com 800.969.9016

{ TRENDS } This trend puts the focus on the intrepid spirit of the modern man who craves the romance of a simpler time. Tailored shapes prevail, while joyful patterns and bold hues live side-by-side with sun-faded pastels and rugged time-honored fabrics. Think old Havana and Ernest Hemingway.

PASS SAGE

FORWARD THINKING

Michael Fisher, menswear creative director of Fashion Scoops, predicts what fashion trends are ahead for spring/summer 2017. BY STEPHEN GARNER

UNDER COVER

Classic tailored clothing is reinvented with smart fabrics, edgy details and hidden layers for an overall sophisticated approach at form and function. Inspired by classic spy films, this trend reinforces the importance of utility but does not take away from handsome tailoring.

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{ TRENDS } A postmodern approach at coastal classics. With clean lines, multi textures, and subtle utility, this trend draws inspiration from surf culture but updates it to fit a new luxury consumer. This trend fits well with athleisure apparel but mixes fabrics and items with less obvious active influence.

NEAR SHORE

J OY LAND

This final trend is admittedly a bizarre exploration in psychedelic surf and grandpa grunge. The look is intentionally undone, and the lines are decidedly blurry between decades and influence, leaving us with an exciting new realm of colors, surfaces and proportions.

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2016 MR

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{ TECHNOLOGY }

10 WAYS MEN’S RETAIL IS BEING REINVENTED Significant advances in technology are changing how we shop.

BY DEBORAH L. WEINSWIG

I

n my 17-year career as a retail analyst, 2016 has turned out to be the most interesting and exciting time to talk about the men’s retail sector.

Imagine a shopper researching the latest Artificial Intelligence (AI)–powered product recommendations on his mobile phone, then walking into a store and picking up a pair of 3D-printed shoes presented by an in-store robot. When the shopper uses his mobile payment app to check out, he is greeted with a personalized message. In some places, this is already possible.

This is an exciting time in retail, and significant advances in technology are changing how men (and women) shop. Retail is being reinvented, which creates significant opportunities. There are 10 major retail and technology trends that are going to shape the future of not only the men’s retail sector, but retail overall:

1 ) M EN HO PPING ON TH E ATH LEI SUR E BANDWAGON Men have always prioritized comfort and functionality in their wardrobes. T-shirts and jeans have been staples of men’s shopping lists for decades. With the casualization of workplace dress codes, casualwear and athleisurewear have become even more popular. We have seen new brands emerge as a result, such as Betabrand, a fashion startup

Shoppers are picking up pairs of sneakers, parts of which are made on 3-D printers.

The Adidas 3-D Printed Ocean Plastic Shoe

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known for its casual workwear, “dresspants sweatpants” and “suitsies.” Established athleisure brand Lululemon posted a 21 percent increase in sales in its most recent quarter, which was its sixth consecutive quarter of growth above 15 percent. The company’s innovation of fabrics and styles in the men’s sweatwear category was a key growth driver, and its men’s business is expected to reach $1 billion in revenue by 2020.

2 ) A MA ZO N EMB R ACI NG FASH I O N Amazon is marching into fashion, offering its own private-label brands. Amazon Fashion private labels are Prime eligible and can be delivered to Prime customers within two days. The various brands’ price points put them in direct competition with traditional department store brands. The Amazon’s men’s shoes brand, Franklin & Freeman, offers more than 180 products with price points around $100.

Franklin Tailored, its men’s business attire brand, offers more than 250 products, most of them priced under $300.

3 ) 3 D P R I N T I N G EN A B L ES PERSONALIZATION Personalization, particularly in footwear, is in high demand, and 3D printing is one solution. Traditionally, shoes have been manufactured

{ TECHNOLOGY }

as multiple parts, using molds and hydraulic presses, and then manually assembled into the final product. But shoe manufacturers have started to use 3D printers to manufacture parts of shoes, such as the midsoles.

Under Armour’s Architech sneakers and select Adidas and New Balance styles are made using 3D printing. The technology may soon evolve to the point where a customer can use an app to scan his feet, and then send that information to the cloud, where it will be translated into a unique design. The customized shoes would then be 3D printed and sent to the customer’s home.

4) SUBSCRIPTION SERVICES TARGET MEN The subscription industry is estimated at $3 billion, and subscription boxes are popular because they provide convenience and an element of surprise to consumers. Men’s razor subscription startup Dollar Shave Club has attracted more than 3.2 million members and will generate an estimated $240 million in revenue in 2016. Manpacks is a quarterly subscription service for men that offers underwear, socks, toiletries and products for other basic needs. Styling subscription company Trunk Club mails customers a handpicked selection of clothes based on the customer’s profile. Interestingly, socks are a hot category for subscription. There are several monthly subscription services for socks, including Sock of the Month Club, Sock Panda, Socked and Soxiety.

5 ) THE RISE OF MEN’S ON L I NE CONS IGNMENT S H OPS

7) ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE: SMARTER T H A N A P ER SO N A L STY L I ST AI uses software to solve problems in ways similar to the human brain.

In retail, AI is often used to analyze a shopper’s historical purchase patterns in order to provide personalized product suggestions. Lewk is a menswear subscription box service powered by algorithms rather than human stylists. The fashion startup relies on a comprehensive survey that asks customers about their preferred fit, job inspirations and favorite cities in order to curate a box of two items for $79 a month or four higher-end items for $399 a month. AI Supply uses AI to predict the likelihood of customers making returns, and provides lastminute alternatives that are less likely to be returned.

8 ) G A MI F I CAT I O N EN G AG ES SH O P P E RS Market research firm Mind Commerce estimates that the global gamification market will reach $10 billion by 2020, growing at a CAGR of 42.4 percent. Almost 60 percent of US video gamers are male, and incorporating games into men’s shopping experiences could increase customer engagement and loyalty. Men’s fashion site Bonobos started using gamification in three of its marketing campaigns. It embedded images of models dressed in its signature pants on a design network website and gave the first 50 people who located these images a $25 Bonobos credit and free shipping.

Stores are increasingly becoming not just a place to shop, but opportunities for 9) THE STORE BECOMES AN retailers to engage with EX P ER I EN CE Stores are increasingly becoming opportunities for shoppers. retailers to engage with shoppers. You may not know

Online consignment is estimated to be a $34-billion industry, according to ThredUP, and SnobSwap says it is growing at 10 percent annually. Some newcomers, including The RealReal, Poshmark and Tradesy, have made consignment more convenient and transparent. Shoppers are getting more residual value online than from a neighborhood consignment shop. Total funding over the past five years has surpassed $500 million. Venture capital is fueling the sector’s growth, and investors poured hundreds of millions of dollars into fashion resale in 2015 alone. There are a few online consignment shops dedicated to menswear. Eliot Mens is an online platform for pre-owned men’s designer clothes and accessories. The site sells authenticated merchandise from major brands such as Acne Studios, Thom Browne, Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and J.Crew. Menswear-Market.com is another consignment site for luxury brands.

6) WEARABLES HAVE BECOME MORE M AIN ST R EA M

The market for wearable devices will reach $70 billion in 2025, up from $20 billion in 2015, according to IDTechEx, and International Data Corporation predicts that shipments of wearables will reach 110 million units in 2016. The golden rule in the wearables market is that products must solve a genuine problem or provide real convenience to consumers. Google recently released the result of its Project Jacquard collaboration with Levi’s: a Levi’s-style jacket with added connectivity that allows wearers to control their music, answer phone calls and use navigation technology.

what it is by name, but you have seen it, heard it, smelled it, felt it, tasted it and touched it. We define Experiential Retail as a shopping experience that somehow engages the customer’s senses to create a memorable brand experience. It is changing the way consumers shop, the way retailers market and advertise, and the way malls are conceived and built. While there are plenty of activities and offerings designed to engage female shoppers (such as makeup classes, hair salons and cooking seminars), fewer experiential retail offerings cater specifically to men. There is a huge opportunity to provide pampering services for men, and inviting them to personal in-store fitting events would be a good start.

10) AUGMENTED REALITY (AR) AND VIRTUAL REALITY (VR): THE NEW REALITY Research firm Markets and Markets forecasts that the combined AR and VR markets will reach $151 billion by 2022, and the retail applications of AR and VR are nearly limitless. VR goggles, for example, can give customers an enhanced in-store experience. Tommy Hilfiger introduced VR headsets that take shoppers on a 3D-video shopping tour. AR has more applications in virtual fitting for fashion. The technology is able to reduce return rates significantly by using 3D body scanning and augmented fitting for shoppers.

Deborah L. Weinswig is Managing Director, Fung Global Retail & Technology

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2016 MR

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{ MILESTONES }

TOM JAMES Turns 50

Why is everyone trying to imitate the direct sales concept Spencer Hays created 50 years ago? Here, what we can learn from Tom James.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

I

t all started with a frustration. four sellers measuring guys for custom Spencer Hays, the menswear suits with these photometric tape measindustry’s iconic entrepreneur who ures. Today, we have about 600 sales asbegan his career as a door-to-door Bible sociates measuring 150,000 clients for salesman, would go into a store looking the finest custom suits, sport coats, pants for a suit and inevitably, the sales and other menswear items. 2015 was a associate didn’t remember him from a record year for us with nearly $500 milprevious visit and offered no expert lion in sales. Our growth has notably ac—TODD BROWNE, guidance. Recognizing that professional celerated these past five years; we expect CEO AND PRESIDENT, TOM JAMES men buying suits need the same kind of to reach $1 billion within the next five.” personalized attention they offer their clients in their practice, Hays Tom James also has 104 brick-and-mortar locations. As Browne exultimately founded a clothing business based on fine product, plains it, “Some clients come to us, but mostly we go to them, sometimes exceptional service and a very unique corporate culture: Tom James. in their homes but more often in their offices. We also have corporate acTodd Browne, Tom James’ CEO and president, (“It’s been 26 years for counts that reward their top sellers with a Tom James custom suit, but both my job and my marriage and I’m not quitting either,” he quips), ex- most of our business is still one-on-one.” plains the Tom James concept. “The business started out in 1966 with As for the suits themselves, there are different levels, opening at $695

“Clothing is personal and men need direction. I don’t think the internet will change that.”

Above: Custom fittings of suits made fromthe world’s finest materials has put TomJames in the forefont of the industry.

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{ MILESTONES }

“Spencer’s goal was to create an employee-owned company in which profits go to the associates.”

—TODD BROWNE, CEO AND PRESIDENT (promoted a couple of times a year at $595). The next level starts at $1,100 and the top level (made in the renowned Oxxford factory, a company also owned by Hays that’s now celebrating 100 years in business) typically starts at $4,000, going up to $25,000 for the finest super 240s fabrics from Holland & Sherry (another Hays’ company, in business for 180 years).

Sourcing at Tom James is decidedly international, and Browne is incredibly proud of the craftsmanship that goes into even their opening pricepoints. “These are made in Santiago, Chile. I’ve been there a half dozen times and I’m always impressed with the beautiful garments our conscientious skilled workers produce. The pride that goes into their craftsmanship is certainly exceptional.” Mid-tier suits are produced in Maryland and Canada and top tier ones are handmade in the famed Oxxford facility (about to relocate within Chicago).

Says Browne, “Over the years, we bought these facilities not to grow our bottom line but to serve our growing customer base.”

One big Tom James success secret is the caliber of their sellers. As Browne explains it, “We have relationships with many universities and we recruit young individuals (male and female) right out of school. We look for character, integrity and ambition; after 50 years, we know how to determine who’s got these traits. Of course our candidates need to be teachable: we provide extensive training to instruct them about quality, customer service and the nuances of the clothing business.”

Yet even with this great recruiting program, the majority of Tom James’ sellers come to them through word of mouth. “Our associates ultimately do so well here that they encourage their friends and family to

join them. We have second and third generations working for Tom James. And the beauty is that most of our sellers become close friends with their customers so the company really does feel like family.”

Just as new sellers appear by word of mouth, so too do new customers. “We never buy lists but people spread the word,” Browne explains. “Bottom line: we consider it an honor to serve our customers and that positive energy attracts new customers.”

And new customers come from all over. At about 12 percent of current business (up from 2 percent five years ago), international offers tremendous growth potential. At present, Tom James has three offices in Australia, three in the UK, two in Canada, one in the Netherlands and one in Dubai.

Speaking about Spencer Hays, the guy who started it all (and who turns 80 this year), Browne describes him as “a brilliant businessman and strong negotiator with the biggest heart I know. This business was not started as an investment. There were no hedge funds or money managers involved; that’s not who we are.

Instead, Spencer’s goal was to create an employee-owned company in which profits go to the associates.”

Adds Browne, “He wanted to provide a place for young people to build careers based on selling the finest product with the highest level of service. Because of the core values Spencer put in place 50 years ago, the concept works. Our first year employees earn an average of $40-$50,000; our top sellers can make six figures in their first year.

Over time, all do quite well: Spencer’s core objective has always been that his workers retire with dignity.”

Words of Wisdon from Spencer Hays On mistakes: “I’ve made many: the trick is to learn from them, put them behind you and move on. If you can fix them, do so; if not, don’t worry about them. And don’t ever fault someone for making a mistake, only for not admitting to it.”

On work: “There’s nothing like the special kind of joy you get when you’re inspired and totally involved with the task at hand.”

Business tip: “Tie yourself to principles, not people. Set high goals; hold yourself accountable. I want my people to correct me on anything I do that doesn’t correspond to our core values.”

Favorite quote: “If you want to be really miserable, think about the respect you deserve that you’re not getting.”

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2016 MR

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{ DENIM } Left: East Dane’s styles are chosen to help guide the customer to discover the latest in denim trends.

Below: Hudson Jeans focuses on authentic and vintage-inspired styling.

Jumpstarting

JEANS

M

ost Americans can say that they own a pair of denim jeans. In timent. “We continue to focus on our customer and how we can provide fact, according to a recent world denim market report pubthe best curated denim assortment for his needs,” says Gross. “We also lished by Cotton Incorporated, 96 percent of U.S. consumers endeavor to maintain a relatable, accessible point of view that values own a pair of jeans, while the average American male owns about seven style and will guide him to discover the latest in denim trends, washes pairs of jeans at any given time. So how are retailers and brands reimag- and styles that work for his lifestyle.” ining this category to add buying incentive to this very Reece Crisp, menswear buying manimportant market? It isn’t easy in such an ager for online retailer Farfetch, adds overstocked business, but both brands that his business is focused on continand stores are managing to add exciteuing to deliver what his consumer ment, if not volume gains. wants. “Biker denim jeans are one of “Denim is a huge focus for Saks Fifth our top-selling styles, as are distressed Avenue, and we are consistently jeans and black skinny jeans,” he says. editing our offerings to ensure “Despite variety in our customers’ each brand serves a distinct tastes, a common denominator is that

BY STEPHEN GARNER point of view,” says Eric the preferred shape is slim and skinny.”

Jennings, VP and men’s Crisp goes on to say that “Farfetch’s fashion director. “Our customer is influenced by the current customers are looking for comfort trends in the denim market,” and that the company is “continually strivas well as fashionable denim with ing to find newness and to highlight more specialty denim brands.” a hint of novelty or quirk. We will continue to emphasize a strong WHAT’S TRE NDING? presentation that highlights the So what exactly are the newest trends that are driving the market forkey trend and styles to our cusward into 2017? The answer depends on who you ask, as there seems to tomers for spring.” be no clear direction. “In the men’s denim market, there is currently a East Dane’s fashion director, big push towards ‘back to basics’,” says Rebecca Brown, denim trend edWayne Gross, shares a similar senitor at trend forecasting agency Fashion Snoops. “Men are focused on

Retailers and brands are taking a variety of approaches to creating excitement.

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{ DENIM }

AG is always trying to challenge itself to stay competitive in the premium denim market.

the true, heritage-inspired fit, rather than colored variations or innovative finishes. While slim and straight-leg silhouettes continue to dominate, we can expect two new primary influences to elevate the men’s denim market for 2017. First, the influence of lounge suiting coupled with soft and slouchy interpretations will create a popular denim-luxe story. Second, the development of timeless tailoring updated with chambray suiting and utilitarian details will emphasize the bespoke appeal of personalized denim.”

For his part, Jennings notes, “There’s a strong shift towards lifestyle denim as well as an expansion of collections beyond the standard jean.

Distressed denim continues into spring alongside fashion details like bleach-splattered effects as well as slim silhouettes. Indigo is the highlight color of the season, and we are seeing it in a variety of styles for spring. We couldn’t be more excited about the direction of denim for the season.”

But for Gross, the most exciting thing happening in denim currently are the vast range of washes now available as well as the influence of streetwear and the 1990s. “These new influences provide a new dynamism to the arena and steers the market away from the skinny styles of recent years,” he declares.

WHAT CONSUME RS WANT

We are always about innovation and we continue to push for it.”

—NICOLA FORMACHETTI, DIESEL

Denim has always been the go-to in every man’s wardrobe, and now that style and comfort have become synonymous, the consumer doesn’t have to sacrifice one for the other. Well structured, time-honored denim pieces with a back-to-basics mentality are key in the decision making process for consumers.

Brown maintains that there are two groups of consumers driving this

Diiesel believes that denim can be re-invented on a regular basis.

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category. “For the everyday guy who wants the latest pair of trend-driven jeans, he’s buying at an entry-level price point,” she says. “Now that fast-fashion brands have begun to design and stock quality offerings (like selvedge denim), consumers are realizing that they don’t have to pay premium prices for premium denim.”

Both Jennings and Gross agree that fit and quality of construction are what their customers are looking for most. Brand loyalty still prevails for East Dane as well. “Our guys find jeans that work well for them, fit well and look great,” Gross says. “They aren’t driven by price; they’re more driven by their satisfaction with the product. Once they find that brand that works for them, they stick with that brand when returning to the site.”

TH E B R A N D ED PERSPECTIVE With an added focus on trend and washes, brands are out to deliver what these retailers need. “We are focused on authentic and vintage-inspired styling and design. So you will see a lot of deconstruction and repair,” says Hudson Jeans creative director Ben Taverniti.

“Also, surplus and military is part of Hudson’s DNA and we evolve that each season with new fabrications and fits.”

Johnathan Crocker, VP of Global Communications at AG Adriano Goldschmeid, insists that one can’t rely on new washes alone to succeed. “Being in one of the most competitive and cluttered categories of fashion, premium denim, we continue to challenge ourselves to tell our story in creative and compelling manners,” he says. “From model Daria Werbowy being the face of both the men’s and women’s collections last season and now with the launch of our indigo capsule collection for fall 2016 that features several unisex styles, we’re constantly looking to create a conversation and dialogue with our customers, editors and other fashion influencers.”

“We are always about innovation and we continue to push for it,” adds Nicola Formichetti, artistic director at Diesel. “At the beginning of 2017, we’ll be making a larger range of Jogg Jeans and we are also preparing the launch of a sports-infused fashion capsule collection around the idea of urban movement and lifestyle. I really think that denim is something that can be re-invented on a regular basis, but you need to change your mindset, try new things, and be brave!”

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{ PEFORMANCE WEAR } Rhone active wear is known for its four-way stretch.

ACTIVE

IMAGINATION Comfort, fit, technology and fashion add up to strong sales and consumer demand.

BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON

S

ome men may still go to the gym in stained tees and ratty shorts, and a huge market still exists for mid-priced active wear that could be found in places like Modell’s and JC Penney. Still, more men are choosing items to work out in that provides maximum comfort, technical elements, fantastic fit and up-to-the-minute fashion detail. An outfit that gives you the ability to leave the gym in the same clothes you just worked out in and then go out to dinner or even the office (if it’s suitably casual). An outfit that usually costs at least three figures.

Indeed, high-level performance-based activewear is one of the apparel industry’s fastest-growing categories. “This trend continues to be exceptionally strong, with our customer’s demand for newness and innovation creating the momentum,” says Durand Guion, men’s fashion director at Macy’s.

“We’re seeing a real intersection of performance and fashion in active wear,” says Tom Speight, president and CEO of 2(X)IST, which launched its active wear line in 2014. “Guys want something that can go from lounging at home to taking a spin class to having a drink at the bar and letting them feel perfectly dressed in all those places. Yet, this same guy has also become so much more knowledgeable about fabrics and technology. For years, cotton was king, but men now know it can only do so much. For example, microfiber is cooler in hot weather. And while they’re looking for the advantages of technology, they’re also practical, so it’s not about technology for technology’s sake. It has to do something positive for them.”

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Two looks by Eysom

{ PEFORMANCE WEAR }

People want to wear fabrics that will stretch, move with them, yet hold their shape” –Nate Checketts, Rhone Those sentiments are echoed by many of the players in the active wear market.

Industry, a year-old Canadian brand, is focusing on greater breathability in its product, often through the use of mesh, along with adding fashion elements such as heatsealed zipper to its latest collection. New Orleans-based TASC, which has been in business since 2009, has found success by using a bamboo-based proprietary fabric that keeps its technical elements (including odor-prevention and moisture-wicking) intact over time.

Mission Atheletcare finds its male customers are particularly interested in apparel An outfit from that keeps their body temperature better regCanadian-based ulated and has an anti-odor element. Onebrand Industry year-old California-based Eysom uses an all-natural, sustainable fiber called Tencel that is great for wicking away moisture. And New York-based Rhone Apparel’s biggest selling point is incorporating four-way stretch fabric in all its garments for comfort.

“People want to wear fabrics that will stretch, move with them, yet hold their shape,” says Rhone co-founder Nate Checketts. “The fact is as more men are living more active and healthy lifestyles, they are looking for products that are incredibly strong.”

Adds Daniel Shapiro, founder of etailer Fourlaps, which launches a collection of mid-priced workout wear this summer: “It is so important to be comfortable when working out. You want to wear the garment, not have the garment wear you.”

“The important thing about stretch is that elevates functionality to another level,” adds Stan Cheung, founder of Eysom.

Retailers concur that comfort is what’s selling. “We hear over and over how lightweight and comfortable Rhone’s shorts and pants are,” says Katherine Mason, founder and CEO of Atlanta’s SculptHouse.

“Our customers are definitely looking for superior comfort along with technology.”

“With the category getting very crowded, men are focused on brands that promise two things: comfort and style,” says Frank Rappa, senior director of retail for gym chain Equinox. “We are truly seeing that our members are balancing fashion and functionality within their wardrobe.”

Naturally, as the number of active wear players keeps climbing, brands are working hard to keep their customers, from expanding their retail outlets to partnering with famous athletes. For a small company like Industry, frequent updates on their Instagram and Facebook feeds help keep their products visible, and the company also relies on brand ambassadors to spread the word.

Eysom’s Cheung has begun talks with such high-end stores as

Neiman Marcus and Barneys and may test there next year, while Rhone is beginning a relationship with major sporting goods retailer REI (which also currently carries TASC). “What we like about our position in the market is that we’re a pure player,” says Rhone’s Checketts. “We’ve found what people want is consistency in the brand.”

Intriguingly, the much-larger 2(X)IST, which sells in the nation’s largest retailers including Macy’s, has also been stepping up its e-commerce presence, says Speight. “While the customer understands this new way of dressing, some retailers are 2(X)IST’s still figuring this out. So Tipped Tee it’s a little easier to tell our own story in e-commerce,” he says.

“The good news is that consumers are aware of our know-how from our underwear business,” he adds. “So they understand that the concepts of style, fit, functionality and fashion are fundamentally in our DNA.” No matter where or how they sell, these companies (and retailers ) concur that men are willing to pay for items in this category — up to three figures when necessary, if the product is right.

“My shorts may cost $100 more than some other companies, but once men try them on, they notice the difference in quality and begin to stock up on them,” says Cheung. “My biggest personal fear when I started the company was that the consumer wouldn’t get what I was trying to do. But they have. We’re starting to do a lot more wholesale and some retailers want to carry the full collection, not just one or two pieces.”

“I think price is less of an issue in this market than value; men care about what they’re getting for their money, and they’re willing to spend it on fabrics and details,” says Checketts.

Adds Equinox’s Rappa: “Price resistance has not been an issue in this category. If we continue to provide the right quality product with the education behind it, then we are on the right track.”

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2016 MR

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{ ACCESSORIES }

Making it PERSONAL

Macy’s is among the department stores betting that tech toys will be hot for the holidays.

From novelties to neckerchiefs, men are spending more on smaller items.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

T

here is an unfortunate irony to the men’s accessories business: although generally an afterthought, a last-minute consideration after the apparel open-to-buy has been spent, it is nonetheless among the most profitable categories in the division.

In fact, for merchants who focus on it, accessories can make or break the season. And, in many cases these days, increases in accessories are far outpacing apparel.

The reasons are evident: impulse purchase potential, gift opportunities, minimal sizing issues, creative display options, infusions of color and creativity, a way to personalize one’s look. Consider a selling floor filled with grey pinstriped suits, white and blue dress shirts, navy blazers, white and grey underwear. Then add some bright printed pocket squares, interesting beaded wrist jewelry, buttery leather belts with handcrafted buckles, tumbled leather backpacks in rich shades of cognac and burgundy. Suddenly the same boring selling floor is magically transformed.

Tom Nystrom, DMM of Belk Department Stores, acknowledges the

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dilemma. He explains that while advertising helps sell key items, it’s tough to determine which items to invest in as last year’s winners (kitschy bottle openers) do not necessarily carry forward. “Still, spring/summer accessories business was up over last year, driven by very strong sales in novelty gifts,” says Nystrom. And of all the novelties one might imagine, this year’s winner (generating 20 percent weekly sell-throughs) was the unlikely category of inflatable floats!

“They’re ticketed at $60 and we promoted them at $30,” says Nystrom.

“Whether these items (donuts, bananas, swans) actually belong in men’s departments is arguable, but I’m glad we had them: we hung them from the ceilings and they generated significant volume.”

As for more traditional accessories, business has been mixed. Belk did well with boxed (not carded) cuff links and tie bars, casual wallets with RFID technology, belts in burnished leathers (more brown than black) and stretch, bowties, braces and novelty socks (which are still selling strong and making up for lost volume in neckwear). Disappointments included hats (down close to 20 percent), wrist jewelry, and

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project booth 33176

{ ACCESSORIES }

Fashion aside, the best reasons to carry men’s accesssories are great margins and minimal markdowns.”

—TODD LATHAM, GARY’S

cold weather accessories (“not much newness and always a bit risky,” Nystrom notes.)

At JC Penney, DMM Jennifer Trout reports that men’s accessories business is growing. “We are pleased with customer response, especially to belts, wallets and hats. In particular, RFID wallets, modern belts and straw Americana hats are very popular. Our gift assortment is also doing well (flasks, travel kits, etc),” she says. “Our customer is adapting fast to newness and anything with performance features: RFID wallets, packable UV hats, stretch belts, etc. Modern belts are also selling well, especially Levi’s, Columbia and JF J. Ferrar. Collection by Michael Strahan belts are selling exceptionally well and continue to exceed expectations. In our gift assortment, it’s all about newness with an element of fun. Americana products are also resonating with our customers right now, specifically, American flag-inspired sunglasses, Americana hats and megaphones.”

For holiday, Belk is offering more Christmas-themed product including ties and socks with snowflakes and Santas. Among their other holiday themes: tailgating accessories, garage accessories (auto-related), outdoor (camo-inspired) essentials, and Game Time. JC Penney is also banking on college and NFL football, tailgate gear and games. “We’ll have a really fun marshmallow shooting game, inflatables like a blow up deer with a target on the side to throw balls at, and tailgate gear for watching college or NFL football,” says Trout. “We expect our customer to stock up on nostalgic games, novelty items and performance pieces for the holiday season.”

THE LUXURY FACTOR In upscale stores, it’s less about novelty and games, and more about technology and luxury. Says Kevin Harter, VP for men’s fashion at Bloomingdale’s, “Our customers are investing in tech and items you store your tech in. For example our Fitbit business is fantastic! Backpacks are still hot and we see knapsacks becoming the next big thing.”

At Garys in Newport Beach, style advisor Todd Latham reports that there’s still a gentrified mood in men’s accessories business. “Two top categories are pocket squares and lapel flowers, especially coordinated together. We’ve added vendor layers to the boutonnière offering in order to increase color, texture and design options. We’ve also layered the pocket square business: it’s not just about silk hankies any more. Customers are looking at denim, linen and silk/wool blends to fill their pockets. Handsewn edge stitching, contrast trim and unique details also create conversation. But fashion aside, the best reasons to carry these dandy options are great margins and minimal markdowns.”

“Life is too short not to accessorize,” says Fred Derring, president of DLS Outfitters. He tells his 150 member stores to purchase grooming products (that invite replenishment), barware, stationery, books, candles, small home décor, phone cases, pocket squares, fancy socks, sea salt soap, backpacks and bracelets. Secrets for a successful accessories business, he explains, include impact presentations in a dedicated accessories area and aggressive email campaigns. “Stores must make a commitment so customers know the seasonal must-haves,” Derring explains. “Don’t buy one of this and one of that! Take a stand on the items you truly believe in. Stores that do this are generating nice increases.”

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Bill Lavin’s very cool skull belt, Edward Armah’s Gordona print pocket square and Joseph Abboud’s kilim bag.

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For luxury retailers shopping London, Paris and Milan, personalized and customized offerings were all the rage. Newly important trends included abstract artwork on sneakers and messenger bags (Tod’s), the addition of graphic printed pouches to backpacks (Valextra) and perforated laser treatments on Furla shoppers, available with interchangeable pouches and charms.

MR fashion director William Buckley sees an ongoing consumer quest for authenticity, with a lot of buzz going to smaller independent accessory brands like Giles and Brother and Alice Made This.

“That sense of authenticity is also achieved via ethnic designs, often with beads and other African- or Asian-inspired detail. Utility is also key: Bags with lots of pockets were major trends; backpacks were ubiquitous. Bucket hats continue to walk the runway while wide-brimmed hats dominated the action on the streets. In eyewear, heavily retro-inspired styles were less prevalent than contemporary frames; independent brands like Mykita and Garrett Leight are gaining share from the big designer names.

Meanwhile, neckerchiefs were the most visible accessory on view at the European shows (like Emporio Armani, above), worn under collared shirts or just over T-shirts. And lapel pins were also everywhere!”

Novelty Gifts • Neckwear • Jewelry • Seasonal Accessories • Suspenders • Wallets World of Wembley #WeWembley © 2016 Randa www.randa.net

AC ESSORIES

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY • PHOTOGRAPHY BY GMD THREE

It’s the little things that count in life.

ARCHETYPES

Fashion Valentino TOTE; Supreme CAP; L.B.M 1911 SCARF (AS THROW); Escobac LIQUOR; Valentino BRIEFCASE, SNEAKERS; Maison Kitsune COAT (AS THROW); Valentino CLUTCH; Kenzo T-SHIRT; Saint Laurent SUNGLASSES; Mykita SUNGLASSES (TWO PAIRS), Play by Comme Des Garcons T-SHIRT; Diptyque FRAGRANCE; vintage Rolex, AARON FABER GALLERY; Gosha Rubchinskiy PINS; Giles and Brother CUFFS; Dover Street Market FRAGRANCE. MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2016 MR

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Luxury Ghurka SUITCASE SET; Blade Helicopter WRISTBAND; Mr Porter STYLE GUIDE; Carl Hansen & Son CHAIR; Bottega Veneta GLASSES, Dior Homme SUNGLASSES; Ermenegildo Zegna SUNGLASSES; Missoni PILLOWS; Brunello Cucinelli JACKET; Blade CUP; Saint Laurent WASHBAG, WALLET FROM MR PORTER; W. Kleinberg PASSPORT HOLDER; Robert Geller HAT; Ermenegildo Zegna GLOVES, CARD HOLDER; Etro IPAD CASE; Diptyque DIFFUSER; Brunello Cucinelli PROTRACTORS; Tom Ford COMB, Czech & Speake GROOMING KIT, MR PORTER; L.B.M. 1911 BRIEFCASE; TWO VINTAGE Patek Phillippe WATCHES, Aaron Faber Gallery; Zenith WATCH; Swiss COLLAR STAYS; FRAGRANCES Floris for Turnbull and Asser, Francis Kurdijan, Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Pure; Canali SHOES; Brunello Cucinelli SHOE HORN; Czech & Speake SHAVE SET; Robert Tateossian TIE CLIPS, LAPEL PINS; David Yurman CUFFS, BRACELETS; Erotic POCKET WATCH, AARON FABER GALLERY; Brunello Cucinelli BLANKET (AS THROW).

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MR-mag.com is your primary online source for news, insightful analysis, innovative ideas, trend spotting, and fashion, plus an inside look at the people who drive the menswear business.

MR-mag.com THE POWER OF MR For advertising opportunites, contact Michelle for details 212.710.7413 or MichelleB@MR-mag.com

Surf Bubble Gum SURF WAX, Brandblack SLIDES, SaturdaysNYC SURFBOARD, Andrew Mau SHAKA BOTTLE OPENER, Gents BASEBALL CAP, AholaNYC WAVE & SHAKA NECKLACES, The Elder Statesman CASHMERE BRACELETS (ON CORAL) SoulMakes SHELL NECKLACE (ON CORAL), Mr. Turk PANTS, Saint Laurent Surf SUNGLASSES, Hiro Clark T-SHIRT, Den & Delve POUCH, SaturdaysNYC SOAP, SURFER'S SALVE, Hang Ten SUNSCREEN, Etnia Barcelona SUNGLASSES, GAP T-SHIRT, Mollusk BOARD SHORTS, Thorsun BOARD SHORTS, Frescobol Carioca PADDLE & BALL, SoulMakes SHELL BRACELET (ON PADDLE), Andrew Mau SHARK TOOTH BRACELET (ON CORAL), Camp Hero ALOHA BELT, DSquared2 LEATHER JACKET, Tomas Maier X Birkenstock SANDALS.

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AUGUST 15—17, 2016

SANDS

EXPO

|

VENETIAN

/

PALAZZO

PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN MIDGLEY

LIBERTYFAIRS.COM @LIBERTYFAIRS

#LIBERTYFAIRS #BRANDT OGETHER

Active Cycle For Survival BIKE; Troubadour BAG; Juice Press JUICES; New Balance SNEAKERS; Jawbone FITNESS TRACKER; Bkrs WATER BOTTLES; Kingsley Johnson WATCH; Adidas SHORTS; Fulton & Roark SOLID PERFUME, SHAVE CREAM, BODY WASH; Baxter of California RAZOR AND SHAVE BRUSH SET; Y-3 BASLETBALL; Juice Press WATER, VITAL SHOTS; Adidas T-SHIRT; Aspire SUNGLASSES, Hobie SUNGLASSES; Nike SUNGLASSES.

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Millennial SteamLine X Reiss LUGGAGE; Ben Sherman BAG; Marshall PORTABLE SPEAKER; Minolta CAMERA; Hudson Made BEARD AND SHAVE Moncler X FriendsWithYou SNEAKERS; MacBook Air LAPTOP; Phantom DRONE; Apple WATCH; Polaroid CAMERA; Boylan SODA; John Elliott BEANIE; Thiers-Issard STRAIGHT RAZOR; Fluer’d LAPEL PINS; Troubadour WALLETS; Givenchy SUNGLASSES; Troubadour BELT; Eton BRACELETS.

SOAP;

MR-Mag.com | AUGUST 2016 MR

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{ FASHION }

TheWEST

COAST’SMoment

As the casualization of menswear continues, contemporary customers are embracing the more laid-back looks from West Coast brands.

BY WILLIAM BUCKLEY. PHOTOGRAPHY BY MICHAEL CLIFFORD.

A

t a recent industry dinner, an editor from a major fashion magazine and I were discussing the recent increase in the number of people moving from New York to California. Specifically, we were discussing an Instagram meme that said “You’re not a real New Yorker until you’ve moved to LA.” Funny. “But LA does seem to be having a moment right now,” I said. To which the editor replied as she rolled her eyes, “Oh honey, LA is always having a moment,” at which point she drifted off in the direction of a passed plate of hors d’oeuvres.

But at least in menswear, there is definitely something happening there. Brands like John Elliot and Stampd are both gaining a wider share of the limelight, and the collections are going from strong to stronger. In fact, both those brands showed their SS17 collections at New York Fashion Week: Men’s in July and both were among the most lauded by those in attendance. Why? Conceptually, California lends itself well to the ongoing “casualization of menswear”. Moreover, for a contemporary customer increasingly concerned with both style and comfort, a more laidback attitude is clearly reflected in these LA brands.

“LA-based labels like John Elliott and Fear of God seem to place a very specific focus on production and have access to some terrific local factories, especially those using fleece and denim,” says Bergdorf Goodman’s men’s fashion director Bruce Pask. “There is an incredible care and attention to detail, to the nuances in garments that result from this very close relation-

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ship, and I do think that this current athleisure/athluxury trend has given the West Coast designers a great platform because their lifestyles are so representative of that casual state of mind. The design process for them seems intuitive, almost innate because they are quite simply living it. Also, many of the West Coast brands have mindfully cultivated a loyal fan base through astute and savvy social media usage. Their connections to the customer seem very personal to them and, importantly, it’s mutual.”

“LA is having a moment, and I don’t see it fading anytime soon,” adds Reece Crisp, menswear buyer at Farfetch. “The emergence of brands such as 424, Amiri, Blackfist, Fear of God and John Elliot are all making waves largely because of the designers and the way that they have marketed themselves. Guillermo, Mike, Bradley, Jerry, and John have opened themselves up to their fans, making their brands more than just clothes, but a movement, and a lifestyle.”

Christopher Fisher, branded menswear buyer for men’s online retailer Oki Ni, agrees. “The laid-back feel and look of California designers have come to embody a contemporary lifestyle.

For example, slouchy oversized jersey done in a luxury way really emerged in Californian collections, and has influenced everyone from Vetements to Kanye West’s Yeezy line. A continuation of this trend with a refined, more structured style was seen in John Elliot’s show and newcomers like Rochambeau, Chapter and GHSTS are all embracing this laid-back feel with a technical elevation. The movement is just getting started.”

OPPOSITE: John Elliott RAINCOAT; Dior SUNGLASSES. John Elliot SWEATER, PANTS. THIS PAGE: Stampd BOMBER, TANK; Departed PANTS; Ermenegildo Zegna SUNGLASSES.

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THIS PAGE: Dsquared JACKET; Stampd JERSEY; Fendi SHORTS; Reebok SNEAKERS. OPPOSITE, LEFT TO RIGHT: Chapter JACKET, TEE. John Elliott BOMBER, TEE. Stampd BOMBER, TEE.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Chapter JACKET, TEE, PANTS; Stampd BEANIE. Chapter JACKET, TEE; Stampd SHORTS. Stampd BOMBER, TANK.

LEFT TO RIGHT: Dsquared TEE, PANTS; Fendi SHOES. Stampd JERSEY; Fendi SHORTS; Reebok SNEAKERS.

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Chapter TEE; John Elliott JEANS. Nautica BOMBER, TANK; Stampd SHORTS.

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A GUIDE TO THE BEST MENSWEAR SHOWS IN

LAS VEGAS AUGUST 15-17, 2016 MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

POWER IN NUMBERS

MRKETSHOW.COM | MAGICONLINE.COM

ONE BADGE. ALL SHOWS. The MRket show is proud, honored and excited to be the newest member of the UBM family of trade shows. Its inclusion into this powerful fold has strengthened an already strong event and is sure to make your show-going easier and more efficient from now on. As a result of this recent unification, MRket, Vanguards Gallery, PROJECT, THE TENTS, THE COLLECTIVE and POOLTRADESHOW will run in unison at The Mandalay Bay Convention Center and a single registration and badge will grant guests access to them and nine other simultaneous shows under the extensive MAGIC umbrella for a true onestop shopping experience. (Be sure to check out the fine selection of men’s shoes at FN Platform at the Las Vegas Convention Center as well.)

Producing over 400 events per year, U.K.-based UBM is the second largest exhibitions organizer globally and the largest independent organizer in the U.S. and China and boasts of time-proven track record of excellence. We are thrilled to be a part of our esteemed new family and pleased to offer our guests this newly unified show experience that is guaranteed to save you time and better serve your needs.

JOIN US August 15-17, 2016 | Mandalay Bay Convention Center, Las Vegas

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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A COLLECTION OF COMMUNITIES

SUPERB SPECIAL SECTIONS AND CAN’T-MISS EVENTS CREATED TO ENHANCE YOUR SHOW EXPERIENCE ARE AGAIN IN PLACE THIS SEASON. FROM A HUB OF ACTIVEWEAR AND OTHER THEMATICALLY FOCUSED, AWE-INSPIRING PLATFORMS TO LIVE MODEL PRESENTATIONS, THE FOLLOWING DESTINATIONS ARE ONES THAT NEED TO BE ON YOUR ITINERARY.

RI VI E RA RED

MRKET BRANDS 2UNDR Alan Paine Knitwear Alberto Alexander Julian Colours Alpetora/G. Manzoni American Lifestyle Andrew Fezza Andrew Fezza Dress Shirts Andrew Marc Clothing Andrew Marc Dress Shirts Austin Reed Bademci Bald Head Blues Baldessarini Barbour Basic Options Ben Sherman BH Vintage BH2° Biella Collezione

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Billy London Blue Lion Apparel Blujacket Boston Harbour Brackish Brandolini Breuer Sas Bruno Magli Bruno Piatelli Burma Bibas Calvin Klein Clothing Campaign Black Campia Caribbean Joe Carl Gross of Germany Chelsey Imports Codice Codis Maya Ltd Components by John McCoy Coastal Casuals by Carribbean Joe Cutter & Buck Damon David Smith Australia Dents Heritage Collection dha | ONE Di Bello by Nipal Dion DKNY Dobb’s Hats & Caps Dockers Dolcepunta Duncan Walton Edward Armah Eisenberg International Emanuel Ungaro Outerwear Enro Euro Fashions Faber-Castell Design Florsheim Fly3 Forsyth of Canada Francesco Domani Fredrick Martin Geoff Nicholson Gianni Marcelo Gimo’s Gionfriddo

MRKETSHOW.COM | MAGICONLINE.COM

Gitman Bros Graf von Faber-Castell Gran Sasso GTA Haggar Clothing Company Haggar Neckwear Hallmark Neckwear Halsey Happy Ties Harbour International LLC Haupt Shirts of Germany Hook + Albert iDesign Ike Behar Ike Behar Tailored Impulso International Laundry Isaac Mizrahi Italian Trade Commission Italo Ferretti Italwear/A. Bossi Itochu Prominent J.M. Dickens J.S. Blank & Co/Barbara Blank Jack of Spades Jack Victor James Campbell Dress Shirts T ORRAS

MIC HA E L K O R S

Jared John H. Daniel Custom Tailors John Peter London Johnnie O Johnston & Murphy Jones New York Kahala Sportswear Keepers International Keith and James Kenneth Cole Kenneth Cole New York Kenneth Cole Reaction Kroon Lancia Lanier Apparel Lauren Ralph Lauren Le Club Left Coast Tee Lenor Romano Leo Chevalier Loft 604/Cesarani Lone Pine Leathers Lords & Fools Lorenzoni Luciano Moresco MAC of Germany Maledetti Toscani Marcello Sport Marcraft Mason’s Matt Totillo Mattarazi Uomo, Inc. Max ‘N Chester Meyer-MMX Michael Kors Minerals Missani Le Collezioni MMG Montechiaro Movimento Natural Blue

KEI TH AND J AME S

Nick Graham Tailored Nigel Knox Nifty Socks One More Then We’ll Go Original Penguin Tailored & Dress Shirts Pacific Silk Paisley & Gray Palm Beach Pantherella Paul & Shark Peacock Apparel Peerless Boys Peerless Clothing USA, Inc. Per-Pedes Perry Ellis Tailored & Dress Shirts Pete Huntington Petrocelli Piloti PMF Polifroni Milano Porto Prossimo Jack Victor Punto Socks Quieti Remy Res Ipsa Richard James Robert Graham Clothing Robert Graham Hosiery Rooster Neckwear Ross Graison S. Cohen Inc. Sailors & Brides Savile Row Schuyler 4 Scott Nichol Scully Sean John Sebastien James Collection Serica Serica Elite

MAX ‘ N C H E S T E R

SlideBelts Smathers and Branson Southern Proper St. Croix Collections and Heritage by St. Croix Stacy Adams Stenstroms Sweden Stetson Hats Stetson Outdoor Hats Steve Harvey Neckwear Susan G. Komen Tailorbyrd Tasc Performance Tateossian Ltd. Ted Baker London The Bird Dog Group The British Apparel Collection Ltd. The ZB Savoy Bowtie Co. Tommy Hilfiger Tori Richard Torino Torras Vastrm Vilebrequin Vince Camuto Tailored Vineyard Vines Vintage Italia Viyella Wood Underwear Xacus - Andrea Zori Please check mrketshow.com/ brands for an updated MRket listing and visit magiconline.com/ magic/mens for a full brand listing of all Magic Las Vegas shows.

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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COMMUNITIES IN MRKET

P A I SLE Y & GRAY

TA SC P ERFORMANCE

H OOK + AL B E RT

This carefully curated section returns front and center of the show floor to feature directional, visionary design’s best of the best. Its compelling, highly sellable assortment mixes newcomers and old favorites, all of who are at the foreground of modern menswear. For more information about Vanguards Gallery please visit mrketshow.com/vanguards-gallery.

2UNDR Alberto Alexander Julian Colours Baldessarini Brackish Codice dha | ONE Halsey Hook + Albert Keith and James Lenor Romano Loft 604/Cesarani Lords & Fools Matt Totillo

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Max ‘N Chester Meyer-MMX Minerals Natural Blue One More Then We’ll Go Paisley & Gray PMF Prossimo Jack Victor Res Ipsa Sailors & Brides Tasc Performance Ted Baker London The ZB Savoy Bowtie Co. Wood Underwear

As appealing as a drive down the PCH in a top-down convertible on a picture-perfect day, this unique grouping of casual brands returns to truly embody the paradoxically super-chill yet adventurous West Coast lifestyle. Its refreshing assortment of comfortable, easy-to-wear apparel and accessories are bound to attract customers who live that lifestyle whether they are seaside residents or landlocked wannabes.

Bald Head Blues Coastal Casuals by Carribbean Joe Cutter & Buck Kahala Sportswear Johnnie O Le Club

Left Coast Tee Pete Huntington Smathers and Branson Southern Proper Tailorbyrd Tori Richard Vineyard Vines

VIN E Y A R D VI N E S

Once again MRket brings you the best of Bella Italia with the finest selection of manufacturers from the bootshaped menswear mecca. With their country’s famously fastidious attention to detail and quality, this banquet of Italian brands exudes the excellence and elegance that has cemented this nation’s longstanding reputation as the purveyor of the world’s finest fashion.

P A UL & SHA R K

Alpetora/G. Manzoni Di Bello by Nipal Dolcepunta Fly3 Gimo’s Gran Sasso Impulso Italo Ferretti

Italwear/A. Bossi Lorenzoni Luciano Moresco Maledetti Toscani Montechiaro Paul & Shark Xacus - Andrea Zori

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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PHOTO SHOP

WE GATHERED IMAGES FROM MRKET’S BRANDS TO CREATE THE FOLLOWING COLLAGES TO HELP YOU SHOP THE SHOW. THE MAIN FASHION FOCUSES FOR SPRING 2017? BEACH-APPROPRIATE CASUALWEAR, YOUTHFUL CONTEMPORARY DESIGN, AN INFLUX OF NEW ACCESSORIES AND A “MODERN DRESSY” LOOK THAT IS MORE RELAXED THAN RESTRICTING.

YOUTHQUAKE!

Woo younger customers with an assortment that’s as eclectic as their fashion taste, which takes its influence from the street, sports and even new, modern versions of classic menswear items.

ANDRE W F E Z Z A

DI BELLO B Y NI PAL

EMANUEL UNGARO J OSH BA CH NECKWEAR

P E E RL E S S B OY S

GIMO ’ S

CAMPAI GN B L AC K

V I NT AGE I T AL I A

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LO N E PIN E LE A TH E R S

K E N N E TH C OLE

B OS T ON H ARB OU R

B H V I N TA GE

B ARB OU R

B UR MA B IB AS

BEN SHERMAN

DOB B ’ S H AT S & C AP S

PI LOTI

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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PHOTO SHOP FUN IN THE SUN

Casualwear with easy plaids, fun prints and a mostly pastel palette that stresses a rosy-glow pink will help make every day a sunny one next summer.

C AMP I A

A LAN PAI NE KNI TWEAR

I MPUL SO

I N TE RNATI ONAL LAUNDRY

DAVI D SMI TH

I TAL WEAR A B OS S I

F ORSYTH OF CANADA

CUTTER & BUCK

KAH AL A SP ORT S WE AR

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T OMMY H I L F I GE R

MRKETSHOW.COM | MAGICONLINE.COM

MONTECHI ARO

Z E RO RE S T RI C T I ON

E LI TE

FLY3

S T E T S ON H AT S

TORI RI CHARD

S E B AS T I E N J AME S C OL L E C T I ON

L OR E N ZO N I

ST. CROI X COLLECTI ONS & HERI TAGE

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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PHOTO SHOP TROPICALLY TAILORED

Keeping with the weather, button-up collared shirts and blazers are generally lighter and slightly more casual for summer, making it easy to create a relaxed-yet-elegant look when gussying up in the dog days.

S E RI C A

AL P E T ORA G. MA N ZO N I

TAI LORBYRD

I DESI GN

BRUNO MAGL I

DKNY

L ANI E R

ROS S GRAI S ON

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LEO C H E V A LIE R

J AC K V I C T OR

MAT T A RA Z I U O MO IN C .

L U C I ANO MORE S C O

LAUREN RAL PH L AU RE N

P OL I F RONI J OHN P ETER LONDON

QUI ETI

B RANDOL I NI

MARC E L L O S P ORT

P ROSSI MO JACK VI CTOR

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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PHOTO SHOP ACCESSORIZE (AND SHINE)

Furnishings, footwear and other accessories are sure-ямБre ways to add some extra cash to your till. Revitalize your registers with these optimal options.

ROOS T E R NE C KWE AR

THE Z B SAVOY BOWTI E CO.

G R A F VO N F A BE R

CHELSEY I MPORTS

MMG

EDWARD ARMAH

AMERI C AN L I F E S T Y L E

SUSAN G. KOMEN

S E AWARD & S T E RN

TATEOSSI AN LTD.

STEV E H ARV E Y NE C KWE AR

C OL L ARE D GRE E NS

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MA LE D E TT I TO S C A N

NI

H AL L MARK NE C KWE AR

TORI NO

B RAC KI S H

HA PPY TIE S

KE E P E RS I NT E RNAT I ONAL

ON YOUR FEET

The combination of sharp shoes and vivid socks will automatically add a swing to your customers’ steps.

RI C H ARD J AME S

P U NT O S OC KS

T H E B RI T I S H AP P ARE L C OL L E C T I ON

JO HN STON & MURPHY

P E R P E DE S

P A N THE R E LLA

ROB E RT GRA HA M H O S IE R Y

J . M. DI C KE N S

SCOTT NI CHOL

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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Z AC H ARY P RE L L

JOINING FORCES PROJECT HAS ITS OWN SENSE OF COMMUNITY INCLUDING MUST-SHOP NEIGHBORHOODS LIKE THE TENTS, FN PLATFORM, ETC. ETC. AND NOW THAT PROJECT AND MRKET ARE ALL ONE FAMILY THERE IS SURELY SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE.

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MAV I

M O O R E & GI LE S

PROJECT

THE TENTS

With its unrivaled collection of top buyers and innovative designers, long-running PROJECT is a powerful, forward-thinking show that continually provides new inspiration and always raises the bar on style. This next edition will be the debut of P1VOT, a brand new show floor area dedicated to techbased solutions in design, product development, merchandising and selling.

THE TENTS is where the top luxury and designer men’s brands convene to create an inspiring and elevated shopping experience at MAGIC. Bringing together the most prominent brands, retailers and press, THE TENTS creates an unmatched vision of the high-end contemporary marketplace.

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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JOINING FORCES

GOOD L U C K S OC K

POOLTRADESHOW POOLTRADESHOW is the intersection of art, design, and commerce where visionaries of fashion scout fresh new items made specifically for the boutique market.

Presented in an intimate, business-conducive setting and carefully merchandised, it is hub of originality and welcome unconventionality for retailers of all sizes and spotlights everyone from fashion newcomers to well-known brands.

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FNPLATFORM

J OHNSTON & MURPHY

L ON D O N F O G

Located at the Las Vegas Convention Center and featuring more than 1,600 men’s, women’s and kids’ shoe brands from more than 20 countries. FN Platform is the global showcase for footwear.

FLORSH EI M

SI L G

THE COLLECTIVE THE COLLECTIVE showcases everything from classic collections to lifestyle-driven and licensed apparel for men and young men. It gives buyers unparalleled access to the rapidly growing men’s and young men’s market.

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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VI LEBREQUI N

B L I S S KE R

L ORDS & F OOL S

AGNE S B .

B AL DE S S ARI NI

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DON’T-MISS DEBUTS MAGIC IS PLEASED TO WELCOME NUMEROUS FIRST-TIME EXHIBITORS TO ITS VARIOUS SHOWS THIS SEASON. HERE ARE A FEW MEMBERS OF THIS OH-SO FRESH “FRESHMAN CLASS” OF NEW AND NOTEWORTHY VENDORS THAT WILL ENLIVEN YOUR STOCK COME SPRING (AND WHERE TO FIND THEM).

AGNES B. @ THE TENTS The iconic French designer has been making clothes “that last a lifetime” for over 40 years now and her seamless interpretations of classics-meet-streetwear have long been lauded by fans worldwide. Say bonjour to her latest men’s collection at THE TENTS this season.

BALDESSARINI @ VANGUARDS GALLERY Vanguards Gallery is pleased to welcome Baldessarini into its fold. Offering everything from jeans and accessories to suiting, this acclaimed European brand is a must-see and –buy.

BLISSKER @ PROJECT Repped in America by The Park Showroom, this German casualwear brand is making its U.S. debut this season.

Inspired by light and reflections, its spring 2017 offering includes tops, graphic tee and bottoms in an urbanfriendly black, gray and white color palette.

LORDS & FOOLS @ VANGUARDS GALLERY French designer Yoahm Baruch launched this men’s lifestyle line four years ago and its dedication to “timelessness, nobility, elegance and originality” have taken it a long way in a short time. Its selection spans everything from cutting-edge suiting pieces to jeans, all constructed in the finest fabrics.

MATSUMOTO @ PROJECT Ato Matsumoto creates a full line of clothing and footwear in his native Japan but thanks to a plug by Kayne West a few years back, his sneakers have become high-style holy grails for the in-the-know crew. Peep them and the label’s other only-from-Japan fashion treasures at PROJECT this season.

OLIBERTE @ FN PLATFORM The world’s first fair trade certified footwear factory, Oliberté produces its terrific assortment of shoes in subSaharan Africa. Its stylish collection of sneakers and boots help their wearers look great and improve the lives of the men and women who produce them.

REMO TULLIANI @ THE COLLECTIVE Produced in Italy or the U.S., the belts, sunglasses and socks from the American designer’s eponymous collection boast high-quality materials and his dedication to precision and craftsmanship. And they are comfortable to boot!

THE BEARDED HEART @ POOLTRADESHOW Brand founder Horace is all about making “Damn Fine T-Shirts” and his assortment of highly original graphic tees incorporate unique images that riff on pop-culture icons or spotlight somewhat dark themes (albeit with a sense of humor). He also makes amazing napkin sets.

VILEBREQUIN TAILORED @ MRKET The beloved brand from St. Tropez, which is best known for its oh-so smart swimwear, will debut its newest range at MRket so be sure to dive in and check it out!

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

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#BLOGGERPROJECT

RENOWNED BLOGGER MARCUS TROY HAS AGAIN ASSEMBLED SOME OF THE BEST DIGITAL INFLUENCERS AROUND TO BE A PART OF THIS SEASON’S #BLOGGERPROJECT. GET TO KNOW THE AUGUST 2016 TROUPE OF STYLE AFICIONADOS HERE, FOLLOW THEM ALL AND MAKE SURE TO STOP BY THE #BLOGGERPROJECT LOUNGE TO CONNECT.

DREW WESTPHAL www.everydaydrew.com

Drew Westphal is a Milwaukeebased menswear blogger whose creative outlet is Everyday Drew. EDD is a multi-faceted blog aiming to help bring men’s fashion awareness to the Midwest, while also tying in the close relationship between music and style. Drew believes that a lot of times a person’s mood determines what they choose to listen to for the day, which in turn also rolls up into daily style choices too.

MARCUS TROY

TALUN ZEITOUN

www.marcustroy.com

www.talunzeitoun.com

Hailing from Montreal, Marcus Troy is a multi-faceted creative. He is the founder of Marcus Troy Inc. a consultancy that works with brands from around the world on creative ideas, content development, social media, product and curated initiatives. Marcus uses his digital platform www.marcustroy.com to share ideas on fashion, luxury, travel, products and lifestyle.

NASKADEMINI

www.naskademini.com Naskademini is a Montreal-based artist who has lent his eye and vision to some of the world’s leading brands in fashion, lifestyle, and luxury. The artist also doubles as an influencer who aims to bring awareness to brands and companies by using his social media presence to amplify the brand campaigns and activations. While photography is still his current passion and form of self-expression he still finds time to consult on creative direction for magazines, blogs and fashion trade shows.

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A writer and photographer, Talun Zeitoun is a mid-20 something transplant from Los Angeles living in New York City with French roots. Formerly called The Rebel Cavalier, Talun’s now eponymous blog covers menswear fashion, personal style, travel and editorial content through original photography and curated mixed media. This blog serves as the canvas of his mind with fashion being the paint in which he uses.

DENNY BALMACEDA www.dennybalmaceda.com

Denny Balmaceda is a menswear blogger who hails from the NYC area. He firmly believes in the difference between fashion and style. Fashion is temporary; fashion is a race. Style is independent of that...style is story telling. In 2007, way before #ootd and personal style instagram accounts, Denny was the person bombarding your Facebook feed with pictures of his daily outfits. Since then, via his blog and social media, he has inspired 100k+ global followers to dress confidently with themselves.

BOBBY HICKS

ELI INFANTE

www.thisfellow.com

www.northofman.com

Bobby Hicks is the man behind This Fellow, a blog about anything and everything he likes. Bobby’s blog brings back the old school element of blogging centered around content and interests, while at the same time showcasing his own personal style. His ability to wear any kind of style is always lined with a rugged edge and has shown that style isn’t necessarily always about following trends.

Hailing from the north of Manhattan, North of MAN is a creative lifestyle agency geared to stand as a constant exposure of distinction. Initially starting out as a menswear personal style blog, Eli has come to use fashion as a canvas, painting masterpieces by creating engaging content for the audience. With a background in styling, photography, PR/ branding and creative directing, the mission is to visually stimulate.

SUNFLOWERMAN

JEREMY MITCHELL

www.sunflowerman.com

www.noveltyreport.com

Sunflowerman is a Menswear Fashion Artist, traveling from city to city in search of the perfect inspiration for his art. With espresso in hand and a passion for watches, shoes and suits, he illustrates his way through men’s fashion.

Jeremy Mitchell hails from New York and uses the city as the perfect landscape to build his creative identity.

Working with brands such as Banana Republic, Reiss and Mont Blanc, he has started a name for himself as part of the new group of visual creatives invoking a new age in branding and identity.

PAUL CHIN

STEVEN ONOJA

www.weare-nomads.com

www.stevenonoja.com

Formally known as Lavish-Livez, Paul Chin is a New York City-based photographer and blogger who is a believer in the power of sharing. A handful of his clients include Hugo Boss, Creative Recreation, Hudson Jeans, Bloomingdales, Betsey Johnson and Uniqlo among many others.

Steven Onoja is motivated by everyday life, culture and fashion, and has a great appreciation of all aspects of design. His passion, experiences, ideas and perspectives are shared through the Ostentation and Style giving hope to uplift and contribute to culture as a whole. Born and raised in Nigeria and now residing where fashion reigns king, Steven’s goal is to be a positive figure that people can turn to for inspiration while he fulfills his dreams. He believes everyone has their own unique style and personal touch to share with the world.

ROB MANGANO

www.dressedtoill.com Dressed To Ill is a fashion and travel blog

by Rob Mangano. DTI mixes photography and menswear in picturesque locales, and recognizes that menswear through social media has become a prominent vehicle for fashion, personal style and expression.

MAGICONLINE.COM | MRKETSHOW.COM

71

HOW___________WORKS

BY MICHAEL MACKO

RONNY WURTZBURGER

If the President could appoint an Ambassador of Tailored Clothing, the unanimous choice would be Ronny Wurtzburger. If you are in the menswear industry, you don’t even need to say his last name as everyone knows who Ronny is. The 52 employees of the NY Peerless office have even coined his favorite sayings as “Ronny-isms”. I recently spent the afternoon in his midtown office (where the door is NEVER closed) to see how Ronny Wurtzburger works.

THE EAGLE The Wurtzburgers are a clothing family: Ronny’s grandfather founded Eagle Clothes in Brooklyn in 1942 and he always has the eagle nearby to keep his memory alive. The fifth generation just joined when Ronny’s grandson modeled for the Tallia Orange line’s current advertising campaign.

SHAQUILLE O’NEAL’S SNEAKER Peerless produces Shaquille O’Neal’s tailored clothing line and the two have become friends, so good that Wurtzburger has one of the former athelete’s size 22 sneakers (autographed) in his office. I asked Wurtzburger about making custom clothing for O’Neal and he tells me “it was the biggest garment the factory ever produced.” It was so big there wasn’t a size, but “it took 8.5 meters of cloth to make,” he adds.

THE SWATCHES You would think that Wurtzburger has a team of people pulling together tears and swatches for him, but he prefers to do it himself and says that it’s actually “his favorite thing to do.”

He shows me AW/17 that he’s working on and then predicts what will be the best selling suit. (He’s not telling, though.)

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MR JULY 2016 | MR-Mag.com

THE ONE MINUTE MANAGER Everyone who starts working for Wurtzburger (most are under 50 and have been with him for 20+ years, so there aren’t a lot of openings) gets a copy of the book The One Minute Manager.

It teaches Management by Results (MBR), which allows management to take work that needs to be done one step at a time to allow for a calm, yet productive work environment

THE SUIT Wurtzburger is truly one of the most democratic people I have ever met. I suggest we include a garment in the photo, but he’s loath to choose one of his brands lest the others feel left out. I don’t dare ask which brand he is wearing, but we do discuss the pattern. “Pinstripe is the most sophisticated pattern, you can’t go wrong with it,” he says.

PHOTO BY GREG VAUGHAN

THE PHOTOS Wurtzburger has been photographed with everyone from The Pope to Presidents Reagan, Bush (43) and Clinton. “I have all my bases covered,” he says. But his most treasured photos are of his four children, 10 grandchildren and beloved wife of 40 years, Poppy.

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J U LY 1 7-1 9, 2 0 1 6 Jaco b Jav i t s C e n t e r

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AU G U S T 1 5 -1 7, 2 0 1 6 M a n da l ay B ay Co n v e n t i o n C e n t e r

@ P R OJ E C T S H OW

R e g i s t e r N ow » m ag i c o n l i n e .c o m

MR AUGUST 2016

THE MENSWEAR INDUSTRY’S MAGAZINE / LAS VEGAS PREVIEW

A BUSINESS JOURNALS PUBLICATION

Vol. 27 No. 5