Kilgore Trout Forum: Spring/Summer 2018

unhurried and uncommon since 1977

A SEASON OF STYLE OUR EDITED

SELECTION FROM THE WORLD’S BEST DESIGNERS

PERFORMANCE PLUS FABRICS THAT MAKE THE RIGHT MOVES

CELEBRATING THE EVERYDAY

T H E S H I R T M A K E R S I N C E 19 2 8

28601 Eton Chagrin Boulevard Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland

PUBLISHER

Stuart Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Menghi ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER

Michelle Brown CONCEPT DIRECTOR

Andrew Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

John Frascone

APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM. ©2018 FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE, A UBM®

SHANE LAVANCHER

PUBLICATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. UBM AMERICAS, 2 PENN PLAZA, FLOOR 15, NEW YORK, NY 10121. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ADVERTISERS’ CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 21, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

FEATURES 4 24 58 60

Be Social @kilgoretroutcleveland Survey: What Women Want Travel: Open for Bliss-ness Wine: Feeling Bubbly

FASHION 8 25 38 42 48

Prized Specimens Into the Garden Designers: Boglioli Make All the Right Moves Light / Space Intersecting

DEPARTMENTS 2 6 36 40 62 64

Welcome Letter Finds & Events Ask Forum for Him & Her The Fashion Forum Services: All Ways & Always End Page: Fashion Shrink

WELCOME

The new meaning of

LUXURY

H

ow do you define luxury? Is it the convertible you’re itching to take out of storage, or last winter’s ski vacation, or maybe that cashmere blazer we tailored for you? Or is your idea of luxury simply having the time to read a good book uninterrupted or enjoy a long bath? Maybe it’s all of these things.

Extravagance is still an option, but the meaning of luxury continues to evolve and expand.

I recently read a white paper that surveyed younger Americans on what luxury means to their generation. When it comes to shopping, the report discovered that Millennials define luxury products with three words: quality, craftsmanship and authenticity. Not surprisingly, that’s how we’ve defined them for 40 years. Millennials love a good backstory. You can find a few of ours on page 6. And they want new brands, high-quality products and to know a company’s heritage. It seems our younger clientele has a lot in common with the rest of our customers.

The survey went on to report that 77% of these young adults prefer a pared down lifestyle with fewer—but higher-quality— possessions, and prefer experiences over stuff: they call it “collecting memories like merit badges.” I see this firsthand with my daughters, Katie and Betsy. Neither one owns a car, but both travel internationally and often. Neither has a walk-in closet overflowing with clothing, but each has a terrific wardrobe of quality essentials. To them, luxury is the freedom to pick up and go, whether in wanderlust to Patagonia or for romance in Sweden.

As I get a bit older, I discover that time, family and good health are three of life’s greatest luxuries. . . followed, perhaps, by a Zegna made-to-measure suit. We look forward to seeing you soon.

Wally Naymon, Shopkeeper

Speaking of luxury...

We’re pleased to announce our exciting collaboration with Edgewood Trace, the new residential community built on the idea that luxury living is simplified living.

Nestled in the Birchwood conservatory in Pepper Pike (near 271 and Cedar and Lander Roads), Edgewood Trace will feature 42 cluster homes designed for a low-maintenance luxury lifestyle and convenient to world-class shopping and dining.

Visit liveatedgewoodtrace.com to learn more.

YOU’LL ENJOY A $5,000 KILGORE TROUT SHOPPING EXPERIENCE WHEN YOU CLOSE ON A NEW HOME AT EDGEWOOD TRACE. We’ll come to your new home, offer a complimentary closet consultation, and present you with a $5,000 Kilgore Trout gift card to refresh your wardrobe for your new simplified lifestyle.

Passion + Performance

With Victory Comes Preparedness

BESOCIAL @kilgoretroutcleveland #favoriteshots #connect Be sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram @kilgoretroutcleveland for info on new arrivals, the latest news, upcoming events and sales.

We love to see how you pair and wear your Kilgore Trout purchases, so please tag us: #kilgoretroutcleveland and #etonchagrinblvd.

@kilgoretroutcleveland #chrisgoodin #isaiajacket #pt05jean #etonshirt

@shakthivarman #summer #flying #kilgoretroutcleveland #travel

@kilgoretroutcleveland #wally #moxie #dogfriendly #madetomeasure #saturday

@kilgoretroutcleveland #nicoleschaefer #veronicabeard #marbleroomcleveland

@kilgoretroutcleveland #mothersday #guysgivinggifts #giftidea #clestyle

@profootballhof #fashionshow #canton #walktherunway

@shakthivarman #silkjacket #etonshirts #etro #bearded #reception

@kilgoretroutcleveland #chicagodog #blackfriday #giftbag #holidayshopping

@marbleroomcleveland #etro #plaid #clestyle #bold #sharpdressedman

@jana.vaksdal #rossopuro #mohair #hiddenpockets #thisiscle

@kilgoretroutcleveland #scottsteele #canali #fuchsia #zegnashirtandtie

@stevewrightcleveland #styling #suitsandties #options #clientonhisway

CONTACT US AT 216.831.0488 OR EMAIL YOUR SALES CONSULTANT: Wally wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com Paul pconnors@kilgoretrout.com Joel jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com Chrissy cstone@kilgoretrout.com Cheryl cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com Sandy shossack@kilgoretrout.com Steve swright@kilgoretrout.com Andrea anaymon@kilgoretrout.com Laura lmarotta@kilgoretrout.com

EARN POINTS WITH EVERY PURCHASE, AND RECEIVE OUR MAGAZINE BY MAIL: Members of our Trout Club earn reward points on every qualifying purchase. See store for details.

MONDAY-SATURDAY 10-6 THURSDAY 10-8

28601 Chagrin Boulevard Cleveland OH 44122 216.831.0488 At ETON, just one half-mile east of I-271/Chagrin Blvd exit.

FINDS

Two guys named Paul revive a shirtmaker LEDBURY IS CARRYING ON THE BESPOKE TRADITION IN RICHMOND. Paul Trible and Paul Watson were graduating from Oxford and their careers in finance looked bright — until Lehman collapsed and the jobs vanished. So instead, they followed their passion. After apprenticing on Jermyn Street, the Pauls returned to their hometown and revived one of America’s oldest shirtmakers, with master craftsmen making shirts by hand, using hand-cut patterns and textiles sourced at century-old Italian mills. In addition to dress, casual and sport shirts, we offer Ledbury’s new collection of reactive-dyed chinos with a modern tailored fit that’s office appropriate and made for comfort.

01 – IDEAL TAILORED FIT

Comes in slim and classic fits to provide a tailored look for any body type.

02 - BODY LENGTH

Tucked or untucked, Ledbury’s varying body lengths let you go your own way.

03 - SHELL BUTTONS

Tension threading ensures that they stay fastened for the life of the garment.

04 – CANVASSED INTERLINING

Collars stand tall under a sweater or sport coat with canvassed interlining.

05 - LOWERED SECOND BUTTON

Prevents your shirt from being buttoned too high or too low.

06 - EUROPEAN FABRICS

Ledbury doesn’t cut corners: fabrics are sourced from the world’s finest mills.

Easy classic CIRCOLO 1901 LETS THE ESSENCE COME OUT. Gennaro Dargenio wondered how he could distill fashion to its essence, how he could create a collection that adapts instantly to whoever is wearing it: a philosophy and a style that is not to be explained, but simply to be worn. The result is Circolo 1901. Clothes that are easy but not simple. A collection that wants neither to convince nor impress.

A collection for women who recognize in themselves the idea of a modern, easy and comfortable way of being and dressing. Circolo 1901 likes to call it Easy Classic.

BEHIND EVERY BRAND WE OFFER

there’s a story waiting to be told.

ANDERSON’S HAS BEEN MAKING BELTS IN PARMA, ITALY—AND NOWHERE ELSE—FOR 50 YEARS. “When I tell people there are at least 100 steps in the production of one of our belts, they don’t believe me,” says Riccardo Valenti, third-generation CEO of Anderson’s.

“A suit or shoe, yes. But a belt?”

100 steps,

but who’s counting?

Of course, you don’t have to do it the Anderson’s way. You could start by not spending up to six months naturally tanning your hides with oak barks and natural tannins. You could eliminate the hand-shaping, trimming, die-cutting, stab-stitching, loose-thread sealing, and hand-finishing and polishing using hard natural wax.

You might not bother with ostrich, crocodile and lizard skin, or offer the stretch multicolor woven belt in so many different color combinations, from eye-popping to simply playful. And why go to the trouble of pre-softening and ageing a handbraided leather belt, giving it the glow and patina of a life well-lived?

EVENTS Join made-to-measure specialist Daniel Perlin from Ermenegildo Zegna for the ultimate Su Misura experience. Discover the newest seasonal fabrics and options for made-to-measure clothing, check out the Casual Luxury made-tomeasure collection, and preview expanded in-stock collections from Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna. This collection features the very finest fabrics from Ermenegildo Zegna’s woolen mill.

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MADE-TO-MEASURE EVENT FRIDAY & SATURDAY, MARCH 16–17 Earn Trout Club points on your Ermenegildo Zegna purchase.

Designed for the speed and motion of contemporary life, luxury performance fabrics combine with masterful craftsmanship to create a new tradition in men’s tailoring. Join Dorian Anderson from Samuelsohn as he presents a curated collection of super-fine wools, intriguing blends of silks and linens as well as innovative performance weaves, all individually measured, cut and sewn— masterfully crafted to fit your movement, posture, size and personal style.

SAMUELSOHN MADE-TO-MEASURE EVENT WITH MAGNANNI FOOTWEAR FRIDAY & SATURDAY, APRIL 6–7 Magnanni’s Adam Giles will be present on Saturday, April 7th.

Customary Samuelsohn made-to-measure fees will be waived.* *See store for details. Trout Club points will be earned, except on footwear purchase.

SHE WANTED HER OWN PERSONAL “IT” BAG AND WOUND UP WITH A BRAND: LUCQUE.

Freedom of movement THE SHIRT FOR GUYS WHO CAN’T STAND STILL. German brand Desoto calls it the Flex-Shirt, a business (and leisure) shirt constructed of premium cotton jersey and completely different from any shirt you’ve worn in fit, feel and comfort. This shirt will look great all day long and never needs to be touched by an iron—so it’s practically guaranteed to be your new go-to shirt for travel. Desoto’s design department on Lake Como developed a special arm construction that’s cut without shoulder seams, and sustainable German-knitted fabrics with a bit of flex offer innovative fit and maximum comfort.

Leading with innovation, this family-owned business is creating a new dimension in men’s shirts.

Susan Paillassou had no idea her life would change so suddenly. While shopping a collection of leathers for wall treatments, floors and furnishings, she found herself in awe of the treatments applied to the hides: floral embossings, hand-painted prints and filigreed paisleys carved into beautiful, soft leather. Her first reaction was, “I want a bag out of this. And this. And this!”

Realizing that no one was going to do “this,” Paillassou decided she had to do it herself. Now, Paillassou imports from the finest Italian tanneries, and Lucque bags are crafted in Los Angeles by masters in the industry who have made handbags for the most prominent fashion houses.

Inspiration struck

Prized

SPECIMENS His must-have collections for spring ’18

Art Direction Christopher Hixson Styling Christina Stone, Steve Wright Photography Jim Martin Post-Production Mike Steiner

7XSRI -WPERH VIWMR TSTPMR ERXM HVST Á RMWL [MRHFVIEOIV ERH “Darren” technical jogger, Ferragamo “Stephen” high-top sneaker

*ELIVX] [EWLIH X[MPP WLMVXW in sun-faded hues

Kilgore Trout cotton pique polos [MXL GSRXVEWX GSPPEVW

Mason’s poplin cotton shirt, unstructured GSXXSR FPE^IV [MXL GSRXVEWX WXMXGL TVMRXIH Â SVEP GSXXSR WLSVX µ8SVMRS¶ TPEMH XVSYWIV

7SP %RKIPIW [SZIR GSXXSR NIVWI] WLMVX ERH IWWIRXMEP X[MPP NSKKIV 4EYP 7QMXL IQFVSMHIVIH FEWIFEPP GET

*ELIVX] µ4EGMÁ G¶ TSRGLS MR GSXXSR S.M.N “Hunter” 5-pocket jean in sunset

7SP %RKIPIW µ;EZIW¶ GVI[ RIGO XII and knit pocket short

Hudson destroyed denim trucker jacket, Sol Angeles long-sleeve knit tee, Hudson “Blake” straight slim 5-pocket NIER MR KVE] X[MPP 7ERXSRM µ'PIERMG¶ sneaker in navy calfskin

A compilation of shirts for every day from Frank & Eileen in Italian linen, light poplin ERH FVYWLIH GSXXSR X[MPP

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1SRGPIV µ1EKPME¶ R]PSR XIGL LSSHIH [MRHFVIEOIV µ1EKPME¶ tricot cardigan, cotton jogger sport short

&MPP] 6IMH WXVMTI GSXXSR GVI[ PMRIR LIVVMRKFSRI WLSVXW [MXL X[MPP XETI HIXEMPMRK ERH LSVR FYXXSRW

Etro striped wool-blend sport coat, printed cotton tee, tonal dot pattern trouser

3JÁ GMRI +qRqVEPI µ0MKLXIWX¶ GSXXSR WIIVWYGOIV NEGOIX Italian poplin shirt, “Paul” pant in mauve, R. Hanauer hand-rolled linen pocket square

)VQIRIKMPHS >IKRE [SSP PMRIR FPIRH WYMX GSXXSR NIVWI] ORMX WLMVX WYIHI PS[ XST WRIEOIV VMQPIWW HSYFPI FEV WYRKPEWWIW

SURVEY

WHAT WOMEN WANT Just for fun, we conducted an online survey (friends and friends of friends) to find out how women like guys to dress. The questions were open-ended so all responses were unaided. The sample was national, mostly professional women (lawyers, writers, marketing execs, event planners, teachers, health care workers) between 25 and 50 who were surprisingly opinionated about what their men should wear.

Here, a few interesting findings: • On a scale of 1 to 10, the average ranking for the importance of a guy’s appearance was a 7 (2 to 10 range). One respondent noted that “for work colleagues, appearance is a 10 because it reflects our brand.” Another ranked it 10 for boyfriends and/or partners “because we reflect each other.”

• Asked what they notice first about how a guy is dressed, 60 percent notice his overall style (neat or sloppy, casual or buttoned up) vs. a particular

apparel item. 30 percent say they look first at the shirt (pattern, color, fit), 30 percent at the shoes (“shoes reflect his overall style and the care he puts into his things”), and 20 percent at how well the clothes fit.

• Asked what specifically would attract them to a guy, the majority once again cited an overall look (comfort, confidence and fit were noted most often), rather than a specific item. “I’m attracted if the guy looks like he’s given it some thought,” writes Natalie, a personal shopper. “I often tell my 35-year-old boyfriend that he dresses like an 8th grader!” admits another respondent. “I go for well-groomed and confident,” writes Samantha, a marketing exec. “And a nice fitted suit never hurts!” Casey looks for quality casual clothes that fit. “And to me, rolled-up shirt sleeves revealing tattoos is very sexy.”

• Fashion turn-offs included flashy logos, clothes that are unclean, wrinkled, too baggy or too tight, man buns, graphic tees, short shorts, stains, cheap fabrics, pleats, clothes that are “too beige,” underwear showing, and “anything that looks more feminine than what I’m wearing…” The most common criticism was “sloppy,” a turn-off cited by 40 percent of respondents.

• Asked to describe a perfect outfit, respondents divided their preferences into work, weekend and date night categories. For work and dinner out, items most often mentioned were button-down shirt (“tucked in”), fitted pants, tailored suit (“pocket square and tie bar are nice touches”), blazer, nice loafers (“not tassel shoes like my 75-year-old 6th grade teacher wore”), dress pants, nice jeans. For weekends, popular responses included plain T-shirt, cool sneakers, jeans—fitted and dark. Less frequent but interesting responses: “maybe a hat,” “vintage T-shirt,” “some facial hair.” Or as one respondent noted, “There is no perfect outfit. Guys should experiment to find a look that reflects their personality.”

• Other meaningful comments: “Clothes are important,” says Michelle (who described herself as a domestic goddess).

“You’re telling the world how you’d like to be treated.” “The nicer someone is, the more I like how he dresses,” notes Kim. And from Emma (a lawyer), “Guys should not wear black socks and sandals with Michigan basketball shorts. But since my husband does, I probably shouldn’t be taking this survey…” BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

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IMAGE COURTESY OF ELEVENTY

If you think women don’t care what their men wear, think again!

Into the

Harris Wharf 0SRHSR RISTVIRI trench, Vince printed silk sleeveless dress ERH FPSYWI

GARDEN Her must-haves for spring ’18

Art Direction Christopher Hixson Styling Christina Stone, Steve Wright Photography Jim Martin Post-Production Mike Steiner

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,IVRS [EXIV VITIPPIRX GSEX VIZIVWIW JVSQ KMRKLEQ XS WXIIP FPYI

&EKYXXE GSXXSR [VET FPSYWI ,YHWSR GYXSJJ WLSVX 0MIFIWOMRH &IVPMR FPEGO PIEXLIV FYGOIX WLSYPHIV TEGO

:IVSRMGE &IEVH Â SVEP TMRXYGOIH FPSYWI PMRIR FPIRH FPE^IV LMKL [EMWXIH [MHI PIK VE[ LIQ GVSTTIH NIER ERH QIXEPPMG WERHEP Â EX

,EVVMW ;LEVJ 0SRHSR JIPXIH QSXS NEGOIX MR TIVM[MROPI ,YHWSR TMRXYGOIH VE[ LIQ NIER 0YGUYI TIFFPIH PIEXLIV GVSWW FSH] FEK

Veronica Beard lace camp jacket, Hudson “Zoeey” high-rise straight deep-cuff crop jeans

,YHWSR IQFVSMHIVIH NIER NEGOIX ERH HMWXVIWWIH IQFVSMHIVIH NIERW

0¸%KIRGI µ2MRE¶ FPSYWI ERH “Margot” high-rise skinny jean, :IVSRMGE &IEVH IQFVSMHIVIH HIRMQ WERHEP

0¸%KIRGI WMPO WLMVX HVIWW [MXL QEXGLMRK silk camisole, “Margot” coated high-rise GVSTTIH NIER 0YGUYI GVSWW FSH] QMRM WEXGLIP MR TIFFPI PIEXLIV

ASKFORUM TACKLING YOUR FASHION QUESTIONS.

I LOVE WEARING FLIP-FLOPS IN THE SUMMER, BUT ARE THEY APPROPRIATE FOR THE OFFICE OR GOING OUT TO DINNER? Dress codes vary by establishment, but in general, we say trade the flip-flops for some nice leather sandals. (And be sure to get a pedicure!) Many sandal styles for spring ’18 are hybrids, offering fine craftsmanship, comfort soles and natural air conditioning. (One warning: if you’re diabetic, some doctors advise against open footwear…) Another comfortable and fashionable choice is espadrilles—we have some great-looking fashion updates on this timeless classic.

And sleek leather sneakers with no-show socks are always a great option!

What does one wear to a spring/summer wedding?

I received an invitation that reads “festive attire”—what does that mean?

If the invitation says “black tie,” you’re best off in a tux (black or navy are safe bets). If the one in your closet is more than three years old, you’re probably ready for an update, as current styles are trimmer and lighter weight to move with you.

“Festive” denotes cheerful/joyful/celebratory, so no need to go black tie for this kind of event.

For men, festive attire can mean a jazzy patterned sport coat (with dark jeans and cool sneakers) or perhaps linen pants with a vest. A suit is always appropriate, but feel free to add levity with a fun printed shirt, a fabulous tie or pocket square, cuff links, lapel pin or novelty socks. Eschew the pineapple/palm-tree printed shirt (unless it’s a beach wedding) but don’t be afraid of color. Bottom line: Get creative and express yourself in clothing that makes you feel happy!

(For what’s happier than a wedding?)

IS THERE SUCH A THING AS A SUMMER BELT? TORINO BELT, EDWARD ARMAH BOWTIES

My heavy black and brown leather belts look all wrong with linen pants and light-colored khakis.

Why not try a braided fabric belt with leather or suede trim?

Or else a leather belt in a lighter shade of tan, taupe or olive?

We agree that a dark horizontal line across a not-so-toned torso is not always a great look, especially on large-size guys.

Let us show you some great summer belts that flatter.

36

ASKFORUM FOR HER

THIS SEASON, IT’S ALL ABOUT DEFINING YOUR PERSONAL STYLE.

Q: WHAT’S SOMETHING I DON’T HAVE IN MY CLOSET, BUT SHOULD?

IMAGE COURTESY OF L’AGENCE

Q: THE WARMER MONTHS ARE ALWAYS A GOOD TIME TO PLAY WITH PRINTS AND COLORS. WHICH ONES ARE ON TREND THIS YEAR?

A neoprene topper, like a trench or anorak, will elevate everything you wear under it. Traditionally used for dresses, this unusual fabric recently became the new go-to for outerwear. We love its strength and versatility; it fights water and wrinkles as it goes seamlessly from street to office. Wear over a chunky knit and track pants with loafers, or structured trousers with heels.

Check out a couple of our top picks on pages 25 and 26 of this issue, and head into the store to see all our amazing outerwear options—including from Woolrich, a new brand we’re very excited to offer you for the first time.

Each of our designers offered up their own spin on cool, nongirly florals for spring/summer 2018. Safari-inspired prints in muted neutrals from L’Agence definitely caught our attention, as did large-scale magnolias from Vince in a fresh take on the red-white-and-blue color combo. Even denim makers are getting in on the flower game, with colorful embroidery from hip to heel.

Gingham, especially in black and white, showed up on everything from accessories to coats to dresses. The traditional menswear print used on decidedly feminine silhouettes feels so fresh—just right for spring.

When it comes to color, we’re loving bright orange, dreamy lilac and a whole host of pinks.

See page 29 of this issue for Veronica Beard’s cool coral blazer, a great example of crisp, masculine tailoring made ladylike in a pretty shade.

Timeless neutrals like white and olive green always work for summer, especially in luxe fabrics like intricate lace and drapey silk. They’re great on their own or when used to help ground the many patterns of the season.

Q: I’VE CARRIED MY TRUSTY BLACK TOTE ALL WINTER LONG, BUT NOW I’M READY TO LIGHTEN UP! WHAT ARE SOME OPTIONS FOR A NEW SPRING BAG?

There is so much fun happening in handbag design right now. The overarching theme is texture, so we’ve got laser-cuts, embroidery, top-stitching—you name it. A few of our favorites include satchels from Lucque with a gorgeous pebble texture, and adorable mini purses with floral appliques from ELA, perfect for an evening out.

Colors run the gamut too, so why not try a fresh combo like taupe and navy or white and orange?

Either one will be a much-needed departure from your basic black.

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DESIGNERS

“ONCE YOU TRY BOGLIOLI, THERE’S NO GOING BACK.” —David Newlove, Managing Director

SUITS TO LIVE IN

Tailored clothing for the modern man.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

For several generations, Boglioli was a highly respected classic Italian clothing maker, crafting suits and sport coats for some of the most prestigious men’s clothing designers in Italy. In the late 1990s, the third-generation Boglioli brothers began experimenting with a special dyeing and washing process. Little did they know they were creating a groundbreaking new clothing category that would revolutionize the menswear business.

Explains David Newlove, Boglioli’s managing director based in NYC, “Garment dyeing had been around for centuries, but never applied to tailored clothing.

When I worked for Giorgio Armani, I visited a store in New York that had just received a shipment of these gorgeous unlined, unconstructed cashmere sport coats.

In a month they completely sold out, but since few traditional customers understood the look, Boglioli became an ‘insiders’ brand. In today’s era of relaxed corporate dress codes, guys are finally starting to get it. We at Boglioli call it our ‘empty’ tailoring, meaning there’s no padding or lining, so the jacket totally conforms to the body. When a guy first tries it on, he’s uncertain because it’s so different—but it inevitably becomes his favorite piece in his closet.”

Newlove, who was a top exec at numerous prestige clothing companies before taking this position at Boglioli, gets notably excited describing the “magic” that happens in Boglioli’s production process. “We work only with select mills to ensure shrinkage rates are consistent. The fabrics (often with a pattern woven in) come into our Gambara workshop, where we craft the jackets, bundle them and send them to our tinteria in the next village. There they’re dyed and overdyed, and sometimes acid washed for a frost effect. They’re dried and hung and sent back to us for pressing and finishing.” The end result: a jacket that’s so soft, luxurious and comfortable that it makes everything else in one’s wardrobe obsolete.

His passion for Boglioli extends to the selling process. “When I do a trunk show, I might roll the jacket into a ball and play with it. Then I show customers the colors and patterns and how well it fits all different body types. This is not serious, dress-for-success type clothing, but rather suits and sport coats to live in.

When I travel to Europe, I’m the only one on the plane who keeps my jacket on during the flight…”

Good food is a celebration of life.

- Sophia Loren

EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.

phone: 216.298.9131• email: contact@zackbruellevents.com • view: zackbruellevents.com

FASHION FORUM

the

BODY POLITICS

From hoops to sheaths, corsets to cut-outs, The Body: Fashion and Physique, on view at New York City’s Museum at FIT through May 5th, examines the complex history of the “ideal” body in fashion and considers the relationship between the fashion industry and body politics from the 18th century to the present. It features more than 50 objects from the museum’s permanent collection, including dresses by Martin Margiela, Christian Dior, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Siriano, many of which have never been on view. Within the exhibition, garments are supplemented with images from the popular press, fashion media, film and other sources to highlight how the fashion industry has contributed to the marginalization of certain body types within our culture. —BSL

DANCING KING

For a fashionable read, few names in the ballet world inspire such admiration and awe as David Hallberg, who has chronicled his life in A Body of Work: Dancing to the Edge and Back (Touchstone). A principal guest artist at American Ballet Theatre, Hallberg reflects on themes like inspiration, selfdoubt and perfectionism as he takes readers into rigorous rehearsals and triumphant performances of ballet’s greatest roles. He also reveals the loneliness he felt as a teenager leaving America to join the Paris Opera Ballet, the ambition he had to tame as a new member of American Ballet Theatre, and the reasons behind his headline-grabbing decision to be the first American to join the top rank of the Bolshoi Ballet. Most inspiringly, Hallberg details his comeback from a crippling ankle injury and unsuccessful surgery that threatened his career. —BSL

PLEASED AS PUNCH

Even if you can’t fight like Rocky Marciano, Rocky Balboa—or even Rocky, the Flying Squirrel—you’ll feel like a world champion putting up your dukes in Williamson Sporting Goods’ custom-made Stansfield Boxing Set. Available in black or blue, each set (which will set you back a mere $195,000) features a crocodile heavy bag with ostrich overlay panels and gold chains, a speed bag with alternating crocodile and ostrich leather panels, and crocodile boxing gloves with ostrich leather wraps and metallic gold leather lining on each glove.

Talk about a knockout! —BSL

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ROLL OUT THE BARREL The next time someone tells you they have a great bottle of wine at home, you can tell them you have something even better! For the first time, Bodega Numanthia and Loewe, two luxury houses rooted in Spanish history, have combined their expertise to create unique barrels of Numanthia’s iconic wine, Termanthia. What makes them so special is that they will be crafted from French oak wood and covered in Loewe leather. Buyers can personalize which calf leather tint they want (tan, black, oxblood, navy and red are the options) as well as choose from one of seven additional leather tints for his or her own initials to be appended on the barrel. Each order is custom-made and custompriced (via termanthia@moethennessy.com) and will take about six months for delivery. —BSL

THE ART (AND SCIENCE) OF THE SALE Few execs in any industry

person for life,” guaranteed to

sales and profits.” (Mitchell

have mastered the art of sales-

inspire employees and grow

cites a recent study of con-

manship like our colleague

businesses.

sumers in 27 countries and 20

Jack Mitchell of the Mitchell

Mitchell believes that every-

industries: nearly 70 percent of

Family of Stores. His first two

one is a seller, or needs to be.

them were unhappy with how

books—Hug Your Customers

Yet despite a vast sales advice

they’ve been treated!)

and Hug Your People—were

industry, most firms have a dis-

widely acclaimed bestsellers,

proportionate number of lack-

tional and practical aspects of

bringing Mitchell accolades,

luster sellers, causing business-

selling, the book also discusses

speaking engagements and

es to stall. “If companies would

the power of humor and touch,

requests for more. His new

only create an environment to

valuable components of making

book, Selling The Hug Your

motivate their sales force, then

a human connection with your

Customers Way, is a “proven

salesmen would sell more prod-

customers. This one’s a must

process for becoming a pas-

uct and develop more loyal cus-

read—and will be hot off the

sionate and successful sales-

tomers, resulting in greater

presses by early June! —KAG

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Focusing on both the emo-

EXCEPTIONAL PERFORMANCE FABRICS MAKE ALL THE RIGHT MOVES AND GO BEYOND ATHLETICS. NEW TECHNOLOGIES OFFER MOVEABILITY & COMFORT IN CLOTHING FROM FORMAL WEAR TO WEEKEND WEAR. PHOTOGRAPHER SHANE LAVANCHER FASHION STYLIST LEAH SNOW PRODUCER JILLIAN LAROCHELLE GROOMER VIVI LAPIDUS MODEL JARED K FOR FORD

ISAIA TUXEDO, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SHIRT & TIE

Highly engineered tuxedo fabric is performance technology at its best, looking sharp as it resists stains and wrinkles and adapts to your every move.

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SPORT COAT & BAG, RAFFI POLO, INCOTEX PANT, MAGNANNI SNEAKER, KENTON MICHAEL BRACELETS

Z ZEGNA SUIT, ETON SHIRT, TIE & POCKET SQUARE

Extremely soft and lowmaintenance, Z Zegna’s Techmerino Wash & Go suiting provides perfect thermoregulation and elasticity.

Eton shirting is made from 100% extra long staple cotton and woven with signature crease-resistant technology.

The perfect travel blazer is unlined, lightweight and wrinkle-resistant—ideal for layering to take you between climates or seasons. Nearly every pant we offer, from denim to dress, now contains stretch for maximum movement and all-day comfort.

PETER MILLAR GOLF SHIRT, SHORTS & SHOES

Performance polo is quick-drying with four-way stretch for maximum comfort.

An exceptional gram weight prevents torque during activity. Shorts contain two-way mechanical stretch for moisturewicking and easy-care, expertly designed for the course while still offering a rich appearance for wearing around town.

RHONE TEE & SHORTS, COMMON PROJECTS SNEAKER

Tee features an evaporative Polartec fabric that dissipates sweat to cool you down without weighing you down. Abrasionresistant shorts are made with a soft, contrast waistband and a durable ripstop fabric that dries in a snap.

P H OTO G R A P H Y : S E R G I O K U R H A J E C S T I L L - L I F E P H OTO G R A P H Y : B R I A N K L U TC H HAIR|MAKEUP: LIAM DUNNE WA R D R O B E : W E N DY M C N E T T

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SAMUELSOHN

PETER MILLAR

FAHERTY

OFFICINE GENERALE MONCLER

STONE ISLAND

FAHERTY

TRAVEL

OPEN FOR BLISS-NESS After last year’s hard-hitting hurricane season, most of the Caribbean is up and running—and better than ever. Now is the ideal time to support the vital tourism industries of these charming island nations.

BIMINI, BAHAMAS

Seven miles long with a population of only 2,500, the tiny island of North Bimini boasts a big history.

Ernest Hemingway, who lovingly referred to it as the “island in the stream” and enjoyed the abundant big game fishing in the surrounding waters, wrote portions of The Old Man and the Sea here. Martin Luther King Jr. also visited Bimini several times, to fish, to clear his mind and to work on several of his powerful speeches. (You can still find, and chat with, Dr. King’s fishing guide, Ansil Saunders, an entertaining orator in his own right.)

Head to ResortsWorld Bimini for its luxe

58

waterfront accommodations and array of activities. It offers the largest marina complex in the Bahamas, making big game fishing and island hopping a breeze. Gaze through the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the bright blue Caribbean waters as you receive a treatment in the Serenity Spa, or step out the doors of your suite directly into one of the infinity pools that span the resort. The luxuriously appointed casino is tastefully placed off the lobby and is the first in the world to offer panoramic water views.

When you’ve experienced the diverse offerings at the on-premise restaurants and cafés (the Bimini bread French toast is not to be missed, best enjoyed delivered by room service and savored on your balcony), head into town for a fresh-caught conch salad at Stuart’s, or stop at Edith’s for deliciously unique pizzas. Wash it all down with Kalik: the Bahamas’ own light and refreshing beer.

Ready to explore? Head out by bike or golf cart to any of the island’s white sand beaches. Charter a boat to snorkel through the SS Sapona shipwreck, then stop for a swim with (surprisingly gentle) stingrays at Honeymoon Cove.

Just 30 minutes by plane from Miami, it still feels a world away. From the Northeast, Elite Airways offers direct flights from Newark that will have you experiencing Bimini Bliss in under three hours. —JL

ARUBA

There’s a reason Aruba is called “One Happy Island.” It boasts 19 miles of whitesand beaches and is covered in curiously tilted Divi-Divi trees. You can see the sparkling-blue Caribbean Sea everywhere you turn, and it’s filled with friendly locals, colorful wildlife, fresh seafood and rows of pastel-hued houses. On magical Aruba, there’s no such thing as a bad day—and because it floats outside the hurricane belt, we mean that literally.

For a chic stay, head to the The Ritz-

Carlton Aruba. While the outside reflects the island’s demure Dutch roots, inside, it’s all Ritz-Carlton-level glam. With 320 rooms, a full-scale spa, four restaurants, separate kids and adult pools, personal butlers, and a 24-hour casino (you are in the “Vegas of the Caribbean, after all!), this five-star hotel is every jetsetter’s home away from home. Don’t believe us? Check out the club level; there’s even a hotel within a hotel.

While Aruba is only 21-miles long,

ST. LUCIA On lovely St. Lucia, about three miles outside the town of Soufriere, lie the world-famous Pitons (mountainous volcanic plugs). Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the terrain of these two spires is supernaturally beautiful, dense with tropical forests. Situated between the peaks lies Sugar Beach, a Viceroy Resort, offering the only white sand beaches in the area.

Here, no detail has been overlooked. Every reservation includes personalized 24-hour butler service. Executive chef Jacques Chretien, a native of France’s Loire Valley with nearly 30 years of experience, leads the culinary team, passionate about using the freshest local ingredients. The Sugar Club provides complimentary supervised fun for kids from four through 12, and babysitting services can also be arranged. Highlights of the onpremise Rainforest Spa include six tree house treatment structures, a temascal steam room (an earth and stone dome used by the island’s native Amerindians for health and religious purposes), and an open-air relaxation gazebo suspended over running water at the base of the Petit Piton.

Featuring one of the Caribbean’s deepest natural anchorages, on one of the world’s most iconic shores, Sugar Beach’s location in the secluded Anse des Pitons bay also makes it the perfect jumping-off point to explore the southern Caribbean by boat.

The islands await!

59

there’s plenty to do to keep you as busy as you want to be! For fun in the sun, hit the beach, do SUP yoga, go ATV off-roading in Arikok National Park, or dive underwater on a Seabob. For a more relaxing day, lounge in a hammock on the Instagramworthy Flamingo Island, named for the birds that roam freely around you. No matter how you spend your day, end it by sipping a pepper-red Aruba Ariba as you watch the electric-pink sunset: it’s the stuff of Caribbean dreams. —JA

WINE

FEELING BUBBLY

Every day is worth celebrating.

60

UNIVERSAL/KOBAL/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

T

he cork is popped. Tiny bubbles dance, swirl and burst joyfully to awaken the senses. The occasion? Tuesday! What better way to honor family, friends and life than with some bubbles, be it Champagne or another sparkling wine?

Crystal Hinds, owner and operator of Effervescence, the acclaimed Champagne bar located on the edge of the French Quarter in New Orleans, agrees. “Some of my fondest memories of my [French and Italian] family getting together are of the Champagne toasts: the sound of the pop, the good times, my dad saying a few words and everyone clinking their glasses. The older I got, the more I wished we could do that every day... until I ultimately realized, ‘We can!’

“Around the world, people drink sparkling wine all the time. It’s only recently that Americans are finally catching on: sparkling wine pairs well with many foods, and bubbles can be enjoyed throughout the year.”

Hinds’ philosophy reflects a growing sentiment across the US. Exceptional Champagne bars now dot the map from coast to coast. Each has its own distinct vibe, but all are places to explore the different flavors and nuances of Champagne and sparkling wines from various winemaking regions in the country and around the globe.

Effervescence is housed in a renovated historic home and feels like a cross between a lounge and a modern bistro. It offers close to 400 choices of Champagne and sparkling wine—33 by the glass—and 10 different flights that change throughout the year, including vertical tastings that provide the opportunity to compare the same wine from different years. With so many choices, budding enthusiasts and connoisseurs alike will find bubbly to expand their palates. Hinds suggests that customers feel at ease asking servers and sommeliers for suggestions, explanations and information. “We pride ourselves on having a knowledgeable and informative staff.”

Many Champagne bars also host wine education classes or special tastings geared toward different levels of knowledge, and serve small plates that exquisitely complement their selection of sparkling wines, including cheese and charcuterie boards; caviar and oysters are always favorites as well.

In most cases, the culinary fare provides an exclamation point to the evening.

“I want our clients to really taste the flavors of the food and the sparkling wine: taste how they blend together and don’t overpower each other!” Effervescence has become a destination for dinner as well as for bubbly. The food is served on sharing plates for everyone to taste, to celebrate the gathering of friends and the communal experience of dining. Says Hinds, “In many formal settings, people feel that the Champagne cork should ‘sigh,’ never pop, but at Effervescence our philosophy is to pop the Champagne!

We want to hear it!” BY LESLEY RUBENSTEIN

Four More Spots to Enjoy Fabulous Fizzy Feasts Visit these exceptional sparkling wine bars to enliven the spirits!

AMBONNAY CHAMPAGNE BAR

FLUTE BAR AND LOUNGE

POPS FOR CHAMPAGNE

THE RIDDLER

• An intimate setting • Recognized by Food & Wine Magazine, among others, as one of the Best Bars in America • Features Champagne and sparkling wines by the glass and more than 100 different options by the bottle • Hosts tasting classes • Serves upscale snacks like truffle popcorn, cheese plates and olives

• Two locations with distinct personalities • Offers sparkling wines, Champagne, sparkling cocktails and a full bar • Features live jazz • Hosts Champagne School • Serves small plates such as Vietnamese-fusion spring rolls and house-made fois gras terrine with chutney

• The granddaddy of Champagne bars that’s been open for more than 30 years • Close to 150 choices of Champagne and sparkling wines; also serves cocktails, wine, beer • Hosts Mangum Mondays • Features live jazz • Serves a seasonal menu of small plates featuring charcuterie, oysters and caviar

• A sophisticated new spot • Features Champagne and sparkling wines by the glass and bottle, as well as other wines • Festive nibbles include cheese, charcuterie, caviar, waffle tater tots, chocolates and more • Offers brunch

THE RIDDLER PHOTO: KASSIE BORRESON

Portland

Manhattan

Chicago

San Francisco

SERVICES MADE-TO-MEASURE

ALL WAYS & ALWAYS

The people of Kilgore Trout are here to help.

For the ultimate clothing experience and for hard-to-fit guys, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sport coats, shirts and trousers—even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will be a fit like no other.

ALTERATIONS With four full-time master tailors, seamstresses and pressers on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to having the finest tailoring shop in Cleveland. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new, regular-priced purchase.

BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day.

Bring in any suit or outerwear with buttons that need assistance and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like you looking your best, down to the details. We’ll also handle other repairs and alterations for a small fee.

CUSTOMER LOUNGE

SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS We know your time is valuable. Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call 216.831.0488 and we’ll make it happen.

HOME & OFFICE VISITS Sometimes life or business gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. No worries. We’re always available to come to your home or office.

PERSONAL DELIVERY If you need to have a purchase hand-delivered within the Cleveland/Akron area, just let us know. We also ship worldwide.

CLOSET CLEANING One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. An experienced tailor can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. If you desire, we’ll provide a photographic catalog of your wardrobe for your future reference.

BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and eases your shopping experience.

We’ll always do everything we can to make you look and feel your best.

In a hectic world, we need to take advantage of the simple pleasures—if only for a few minutes. Take a seat in our customer lounge, kick back with a freshly brewed cappuccino or bottled water, and enjoy a bit of the game on our big screen.

We’re happy to provide a moment of solitude when you need it most.

TROUT CLUB REWARD PROGRAM Earn points with every qualifying purchase and receive this magazine by mail each season: 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchased—even sale items (excludes services/footwear). Rewards are issued equivalent to 5% of your total Trout Club points, so that’s a $50 reward for every $1,000 spent. Twice each year, we’ll email you a summary of your available Trout Club rewards.

GIFT CARDS A Kilgore Trout Gift Card is always a perfect fit. Our gift cards are available in any denomination and arrive in a gift box, ready to give.

Purchase in store or over the phone. We’ll ship it to the recipient.

CLOTHING DONATIONS Service to our community is every bit as important as service to our customer. Declutter your closet while helping a good cause. Drop off your discarded, yet wearable, items anytime and we’ll donate them to a local charity providing clothing for Clevelanders re-entering the workplace.

CONVENIENCE Kilgore Trout is just a half-mile from Interstate 271 at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, the region’s finest shopping experience with great dining options and over 50 retailers to satiate your every need. Eton even has an on-site shoe shine vendor. Need to know more? Call us at 216.831.0488.

CONNECT WITH US Connect with kilgoretroutcleveland on Facebook and Instagram for the latest news, trends and events.

ETON 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216.831.0488, kilgoretrout.com Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-8

END PAGE

FASHION SHRINK

Having witnessed my clothes flowing out of my closet and into the living room, my well-intentioned friends confirmed that I had an abnormal relationship with my things. Filled with heaps of clothes that had long overstayed their welcome, my burgeoning closet was crippling me. To sum it up, I’d turned into a closet case who couldn’t let go of anything.

Even the women of Grey Gardens would have been appalled.

But the problem amounted to more than a messy home; it was the daily trauma of getting dressed. Admittedly, I would freeze with confusion every morning, struggling amidst the chaos to pull together something suitable. And here’s the irony: like many people, I owned lots of clothes but never had anything to wear. Either nothing fit anymore, or else it had sadly slipped out of style.

I realize I’m not the only one afflicted with a tendency to hoard; there are entire reality shows about it! If you, or someone you know, has a similar problem, let me share my surprisingly obvious fix—a timely closet cleaning. But to do it right, you’ll need a professional, a knowledgeable fashion insider to help execute that long-overdue cathartic purge.

How I did it: I simply called my favorite store and explained my dilemma. They suggested that one of their consultants stop by to help me obtain some clarity. This consultant would act as my fashion therapist to help unravel the mystery of—to paraphrase The Clash—what should stay and what should go.

Fortunately, it’s no mystery to a professional! My style maven quickly determined which pieces were lost causes to be ditched and which could assume a meaningful new life by being donated to a worthy charity. He even took the rejected pile with him and donated it for me. What a relief!

He also removed my delusions about my baggy cargo shorts ever again looking good on me (or anyone), boldly declaring the time had come for them to take a quick hike to the trash bin, along with all those billowy button-down dress shirts. He then put his expertise to work on what remained of my wardrobe, showing me fresh combinations that never occurred to me, and suggesting a few new pieces that would modernize my look (trim chino shorts, a slim-fit polo in purple, an unlined sport coat, incredibly lightweight jeans). I felt no pressure, but the few pieces I ultimately added are the ones I wear most often, the ones that inevitably lift my mood.

And so my life has changed. A new confidence has replaced the frustration and wasted time of trolling through stuff that consumed endless emotional and physical space.

An unexpected benefit: in addition to obtaining sartorial solace, I discovered my Peloton buried beneath a massive pile of shirts. With those extra minutes I gain getting dressed more efficiently, I can now allocate time to shrinking my midsection for a more comfortable fit into those new chino shorts.

I’m starting now: summer’s waiting. BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

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20TH CENTURY FOX/KOBAL/REX/SHUTTERSTOCK

No, I’m not talking about slim suits or skinny jeans.

I’m talking about putting my overstuffed closet on a diet.

LUXURY LIVING IS SIMPLIFIED LIVING. Enjoy a $5,000 Kilgore Trout Shopping Experience when you close on your new cluster home at Pepper Pike’s Most Distinctive Residential Community D I S COV E R M O R E AT L I V E AT E D G E W O O DT R AC E .C O M

GREATER CLEVELAND NEW HOMES TEAM

216.678.9303

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KILGORE TROUT FORUM SS 2018