John Craig Fall/Winter 2019

John Craig

John Craig FALL / HOLIDAY 2019

FALL FASHIONS

FORMAL EDUCATION

SKIING IN FRANCE

YOUR ULTIMATE GUIDE TO STYLE BALTIMORE’S BEST

THE FERRARI F8 TRIBUTO

FERRARI FUSION mixing old with new DWAYNE JOHNSON

4 HAUTE HOTELS get overhauls

F A L L / H O L I D AY 2 0 19

UNIQUE EATS pass the posole

DISCOVER COASTAL LUX URY LIVING AT MICHAE L L AWL ER.COM

E N T E R TA I N ING

DINING

LIVING

EXPANSIVE OUTDOOR OASIS GOURMET SUMMER KITCHEN CUSTOM DETAILS & FINISHES

GOURMET KITCHEN DOUBLE ISLANDS GLASS-ENCLOSED WINE ROOM

100FT WATER FRONTAGE 5 BEDROOMS + DEN OPEN FLOOR PLAN

@MichaelLawlerRealEstate

@Michael.Lawler

Sotheby’s International Realty® and the Sotheby’s International Realty logo are registered service marks used with permission. Each office is independently owned and operated.

Equal Housing Opportunity. Property information herein is derived from various sources including, but not limited to, county records and multiple listing services, and may include approximations. All information is deemed accurate.

AQUALANE SHORES

COASTAL LUXURY LIVING

40,000LB BOAT LIFT + SUBMERGIBLE NOPROFILE â„¢ LIFT EXPANSIVE SYNTHETIC DOCK | 1877 6TH STREET S | $8,450,0 00

Michael G. Lawler, P.A. | 800 Harbour Dr. | Naples, FL 34103 | 239.261.3939

CONTENTS Fall/ H o l i d ay 2019

FEATURES ferrari’s hottest | 26 F8 Tributo, the Italian brand’s new flagship, is a blend of its greatest hits and today’s chart-topping tech.

The Good Life

Smart sartorial choices will make you look and feel your best—whether you’re in the office or on the town.

what a comeback! | 28

p.

Some hotels rest on their laurels, but not these four. They’ve remade themselves— with exciting results.

from our customers | 36 Three of our most devoted customers and their sons share what they love about the selection and overall shopping experience at John Craig.

That’s amore! | 52 What makes one boot-shaped nation so stellar in menswear?

six degrees of cognac | 64

| JOHN CRAIG

Why is this spirit so hip? Exacting production and ageing standards tell part of the tale.

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ON THE COVER: Overcoat by L.B.M., floral shirt by Sand, pants by DL1961, belt by Martin Dingman, boots by DiBianco, sunglasses by Persol.

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CONTENTS fall/ h o l i d ay 2019

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DEPARTMENTS memo | 8

made to measure | 50

grape | 74

We’re proud to style you for success.

It’s a fact that any man looks good in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one, of course.

Once typecast as plebeian and fish-friendly, Verdicchio now shows unsuspected depth and versatility.

the JOHN CRAIG guide | 11 Chill in Waterville...check out Etro’s encore...walk on air in On...and much more.

the techie | 16 These high-tech toys might not be a true necessity, but needschmeed—we want ’em!

ESSENTIALS | 18 These cold weather pieces, some of our favorites of the season, are key to looking (and feeling) simultaneously comfortable and cool.

THE LEADING MAN

Like a Rock | 22

| JOHN CRAIG

One-time third-generation pro wrestler Dwayne Johnson has become a firmly established— and nattily dressed—screen star.

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The sporting life | 54 At Huez in the Alps, great skiing matches up with unforgettable scenery, dining and nightlife.

pursuits | 56 Spacious luxury goes wild in the Mercedes-Benz G 550 SUV, a modern masterpiece of tech that’s hyper-ready for an encounter with tough terrain.

fitness | 58

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room key | 78 Baltimore’s coziest luxe hotel, The Ivy, feels homey in a way that home itself can’t quite match.

music | 80 These four artists are tricky to categorize by genre but they’re morphing pop music in unexpected but very welcome ways.

Dance, martial arts and the spirit of a game equal great exercise, Brazilian style.

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gourmet | 60 Bowls of tasty posole are like snowflakes—no two are exactly alike.

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VICENZA, ITALY 1954

MEMO

Proud to style you for success Peter Millar or Johnnie-O If there is one thing we quarter-zip. Lunchtime is know, love and excel in at best spent at an outdoor John Craig, it is curating café where you can sport the perfect look for stylish one of the fantastic vests men. We believe having from Waterville—one of the right clothes that fi t our favorite new lines. in size and style can boost It’s still Florida, so a man’s confi dence and many choose to stick with catch the admiring eyes of seasonal shorts and add others in both his personal layers to their wardrobe and professional life. choices like a lightweight While Shakespeare and cashmere V-neck sweater Mark Twain alluded to the

by Alan Paine. Regardless idea that clothes make the of whether you throw on man, we recognize there a Canali blazer and Hiltl are multiple layers to the trousers for that evening successful gentleman, and party or a pair of Brax we believe clothes play a fi ve-pocket pants, be sure signifi cant role. to accessorize your outfi t For the last three years, with one of our new dressy we have published a sneak peek John Craig holiday magazine as opposed to sneakers by DiBianco or Santoni. Others’ merely highlighting autumn. While other heads will turn, and yours will lift a little parts of the country begin to experience a higher with confi dence and pride. change in temperature and add fall color Our passion is seeing the men who shop to the landscape, Florida doesn’t start to with us poised for success in whatever catch up (if ever) until November. they do, whether on the golf course, in the When the time changes and boardroom or enjoying a holiday party. temperatures are more moderate, our John Craig has been making this a reality wear it well p. 11 annual obsession with all things outdoors for 23 years and counting. We are experts.

Let us partner with you to ensure you look and feel commences. Morning and evening walks are brisk your very best this blessed holiday season. and present the perfect opportunity for donning a

John Craig JOHNCRAIGCLOTHIER.COM

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Editor in chief RITA GUARNA creative Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO senior Editor DARIA MEOLI senior Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS lifestyle editor HALEY LONGMAN editorial assistant GIANNA BARONE art director VICTORIA BEALL contributing editors HARRY DOWDEN, TIMOTHY KELLEY, EVERETT POTTER, JOSH SENS Contributing Photographer GREG HINSDALE PUBLISHING STAFF group Publisher SHAE MARCUS director of sales MONICA DELLI SANTI account executives KRISTIN DAUSS, LISA HAND director, production and circulation SUSAN WINDRUM Advertising Services director JACQUELYNN FISCHER graphic designer, ad services VIOLETA MULAJ Production/Art Assistant CHRIS FERRANTE Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK, RANDALL TASHJIAN

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Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA JOHN CRAIG is published by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Dr., Park Ridge, NJ 07656, in association with John Craig. Copyright © 2019 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, JOHN CRAIG, 1 Maynard Dr., Park Ridge, NJ 07656; telephone 201.782.5730; email rita.guarna@wainscotmedia.com.

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Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, John Craig, 132 Park Avenue South, Winter Park, FL 32789; telephone 407.629.7944

| JOHN CRAIG

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A U T U M N | W I N T E R C O L L E C T I O N 2 019

THE

JOHN CRAIG GUIDE A CLAMOR FOR GLAMOUR

WHAT LIES BENEATH: CHOOSING THE RIGHT UNDERWEAR

YOUR TICKET TO RIDE

Most true car enthusiasts are likely familiar with “My Ride,” the Wall Street Journal column by longtime automotive journalist A.J. Baime. Well, rev your engines, because Baime has turned his popular column into a book, which, like his weekly posts, is a mustread for any true car aficionado. In 100 Dream Cars: The Best Of My Ride (Rizzoli, $45), Baime highlights 100 of the most impressive wheels (including motorcycles) featured in “My Ride,” each with a descriptive profile of the vehicle, its technical specs and a poignant story about the relationship between car and driver. From a fast ’62 Lamborghini to a classic ’37 Caddy V-16 or the ultra-cool Tesla Model X, this curated collection is enough to make any gearhead googly-eyed.

FALL/HOLIDAY 2019 |

As far as fashion goes, undergarments may be the last item you think about even though they’re the first thing you put on each morning. But as with other sartorial matters, choosing the perfect underwear is key to looking and feeling your best.

Here’s the lowdown on the different underwear options and what to wear down there.

Boxers are characterized by their open fly and mid-thigh length. They offer lots of breathability, coverage and comfort, but don’t offer much (or, well, anything) by way of support. Opt for boxers if you’re not a skinny jeans type of dude, as the fabric will most likely bunch up.

Briefs, on the other hand, are best for skinnypants wearers and offer more support than their boxer counterparts. They also feature a Y-front fly, and are a good bet if you’re thicker in the thigh area.

Boxer briefs, of course, are a hybrid of the two, featuring the shape of a boxer but a closer fit like briefs. Many guys prefer these when they’re working out or being otherwise active, as boxer briefs give coverage and support and don’t bunch or chafe.

A newer style we’ve been seeing as of late?

Trunks, which sit lower on the hips, are shorter in the leg than boxers and cut across-mid thigh. Get a pair or two of these if you’ve got skinny stems or wear tucked-in shirts.

A few other quick tips to keep in mind: Replace your underwear once a year—anything with visible stains or holes has got to go. As for how many pairs you should own, experts say about 20 is the sweet spot. And speaking of sweet spots, Saxx underwear—available at John Craig—uses its patented BallPark technology and 3D HammockShaped Pouch to reduce friction down there and keep all your parts supported and comfortable.

Stop by one of our stores where we can help you supplement or overhaul your underwear wardrobe.

Like a great performer who’s come back for an encore, the Etro fall/winter collection is here at John Craig. When we previewed its new assortment of printed shirts, we had to offer the storied brand to our customers.

Etro, a family-run brand headquartered in Milan, has been synonymous with Italian style, elegance and quality since it was founded in 1968 by family patriarch “Gimmo” Etro. In its early days, the brand made paisley popular. Today, Etro’s shirts have been described as “bohemian glamour,” thanks to the company’s dedication to craftsmanship and skillful use of design and color.

Ask your John Craig style professional about Etro’s printed shirts—their encore is just for you.

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THE JOHN CRAIG GUIDE FEET IN THE CLOUDS

When multiple Ironman winner Olivier Bernhard retired from professional competition, he partnered with two friends and started On in 2010. Their goal was to “change the world of running” and, according to industry observers and about 3 million runners around the world, they’ve succeeded. The Cloud is the world’s lightest fully cushioned running shoe. When you slip it on (no need to tie the laces), you will sail through the day without a second of foot fatigue.

Run, don’t walk, to John Craig and pick up a pair from On today. They’re available in a variety of colors to suit your style.

A CHILL IN WATERVILLE

You don’t think of Italy as being cold, but the winter climate near the Alps is more like Switzerland than Rome. It definitely gets rainy and chilly there. And it was in the climate of northern Italy that an incredibly cool outerwear company called Waterville was created in 1992. You read that right: The company is called Waterville (you picture a small rural town in the American South, somewhere near Mayberry), but it’s an Italian company from a town called Sequals.

The team that founded Waterville had a passion for the outdoors and wanted to create a line of clothing to keep out the chill and still keep customers in style (they’re an Italian company, after all). In our Naples— named after another Italian city of course—it can get cool and rainy in winter and so looking great is an absolute must, thus Waterville vests and jackets are the perfect fit. Ask your John Craig associate to show you around Waterville.

WHAT’S THE STORY BEHIND YOUR COFFEE?

Does your coffee have a conscience? Foxtail Coffee Co. customers know the story behind their coffee. For one, Foxtail upholds high ethical and quality standards by making sure its environmentally friendly coffee farms pay fair wages. As for the beans themselves, they’re organic Arabica. The genesis of the company is one of those stories we can all relate to. Two childhood buddies—one who knows coffee and one with business savvy—joined forces to create a company they’re both passionate about. The business is booming, as the team at Foxtail just opened its 10th store in the Orlando area. Stop in the Foxtail nearest you (including the shop by John Craig’s Winter Park store) and you’ll know what you’re drinking and the character of company behind it.

| JOHN CRAIG

VISIT FOXTAILCOFFEE.COM TO FIND THEIR NEAREST LOCATION.

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THE A–Z LIST John Craig is proud to feature more than 75 designer brands! See if you don’t find your favorites in the list below.

Then stop by one of our stores (there are seven) for a shopping experience you’ll love.

AG ALAN PAINE ANDERSON’S BELTS BALLIN BRAX CALDER CANALI CASTAGNIA COLLECTION BY PETER MILLAR DIBIANCO DL 1961 DOLCEPUNTA DONALD J PLINER ETON ETTINGER EYEBOBS GARDEUR G/FORE GOOD MAN BRAND HAGEN HICKEY FREEMAN HILTL INCOTEX JACK BLACK JACK VICTOR J BRAND JOHNNIE-O L.B.M. 1911 M-CLIP MAGNANNI MARTIN DINGMAN MAUI JIM MICHAELS MIZZEN AND MAIN OLUKAI PANTHERELLA PERSOL PETER MILLAR PIG & HEN RAY-BAN ROBERT GRAHAM SAMUELSOHN SAND SANTONI SANTORELLI SAXX SCOJO SECRID SKIP GAMBERT SMATHERS AND BRANSON SOUTHERN TIDE STENSTRÖMS STONE ROSE SWIMS TATEOSSIAN W. KLEINBERG SAMUELSOHN WATERVILLE WÜRKIN STIFFS ZANELLA

THE JOHN CRAIG GUIDE CUT BACK? KICK BACK! We’re in an age of sustainable living, cutting back and conserving. While we fully endorse this lifestyle, we also support the man who wants to cut loose without breaking the law or breaking the bank. Let us tell you about BURN by Rocky Patel. BURN is a cigar lounge, but you could call it a sanctuary for those who enjoy fine cigars and premium spirits. With locations around the country, we’re lucky to have the flagship here in Naples. Patel has his own cigar line—Rocky Patel Premium Cigars—so you know they’re high quality. As for the adult beverages, you can expect a choice of more than 70 scotches and bourbons, all selected with quality in mind. Is this sustainable? Of course! We think most of us could sustain this lifestyle…drop by BURN and see if you agree.

BURN, 9110 STRADA PL., STE. 6160, NAPLES, 239.653.9013; BURNBYROCKYPATEL.COM/NAPLES

ASK MR. ETIQUETTE

| JOHN CRAIG

Craig DeLongy explains how to sail through life without giving offense.

I know rules of fashion are more relaxed these days, so what is proper attire for a “Black-Tie Optional” function?

—Wondering in Winter Park Casual is in—when appropriate. Black-Tie Optional usually means that a host would like to have a black-tie event but is trying to be considerate to those guys who don’t own a tuxedo and don’t want to rent one.

Whether it is a wedding, social or charity event, I would suggest wearing a black suit and accessorizing it with a white French cuff shirt with cufflinks, a black or silver long tie and a dressy black shoe. Or, you can consider one of the new textured coats with a special pair of pants. Either way, you can express your own style.

I always recommend that you consider owning a tuxedo.

You will look the part and feel great. We have wonderful options, and in the long term, your own tuxedo is a worthwhile investment.

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DRY SKIN? CHILL OUT You worked hard all summer to maintain the perfect tan, but good skin care shouldn’t stop now. The drier air of winter tends to pull moisture away from your skin, leaving it flaky and scaly.

Sure, you can cover up, but ignoring dry skin can lead to unsightly cracking and bleeding or trigger conditions like eczema. So what can you do to survive winter? Chill out and follow these simple tips.

Shower power. Long, hot showers might feel great when it’s cold out but they can remove the essential oils that protect your skin from dryness. Try a lukewarm, 10-minute shower instead.

Suds up. Use a natural, moisturizing soap or a non-soap option, like Cetaphil, to clean extremely dry skin, the University of Iowa’s Department of Dermatology recommends. And trust your handiwork: Lather up using your hands instead of a loofah or washcloth

(both of which have abrasive textures that can damage dry skin).

Get a pat down. Gently pat—don’t rub—your wet skin with a towel until the moisture is absorbed. You may think the extra rubbing will brush flakes from your body, but the friction could cause more irritation.

The right stuff. It’s important to apply a moisturizing lotion after every shower while your skin is still damp.

Products that contain ceramides, a type of fatty acid, work best because they help fill cracks in the outer layer of the skin, according to studies from the Department of Dermatology at The Mount Sinai Hospital in New York.

Face time. Don’t forget to apply a proper moisturizer to your face. Heavy body moisturizers can clog pores; a lightweight facial moisturizer will relieve dry skin and can have anti-aging and anti-acne properties.

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SLEEP ANYWHERE Comfort does not always have to come at the cost of efficient travel, and the Big Agnes Flume UL sleeping bag proves it. With a temperature rating of 30°F and a maximum weight of only 1.5 pounds, this bag is perfect for any trip in which packing light is a priority. Starting at $449.95.

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Gadgets & Gear

A WISER WORKOUT The phrase “dumb kettlebell” might sound redundant, but a smart one does, in fact, exist.

The KettlebellConnect by JAXJOX can connect to your phone (via Bluetooth, of course) to track your progress and, with the push of a button, alter itself to weigh anywhere between 12 and 42 pounds. Talk about a smarter workout routine! $279.

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UNWIND WITH A DRIVE Some stress-relief methods are more effective than others, but this one is essentially fool-proof.

That’s BodyFriend’s Lamborghini Massage Chair.

Immerse yourself in the spa-like experience of a full-body massage without ever leaving home. With completely customizable, remote-controlled settings and heart rate sensors that compute the ideal types of stimulation, this chair might literally be the height of luxury. $30,000.

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These high-tech toys might not be a true necessity, but need-schmeed­—we want ’em!

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WORK HARD, PLAY HARD Three minutes of video gaming can be an effective workout—if you’re using STEALTH’s Core Trainer. With a foam armpad to optimize comfort and cleanliness and two free connectable gaming apps, this device makes working out quick, fun and challenging. Three “trainers” with varying intensity are available: the personal, professional and plankster trainers. $149–$299.

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IT’S ALL DOWNHILL FROM HERE Looking for a personal ski coach for less than $200? The Rossignol & PIQ Wearable Ski Sport Tracker is a hassle-free device that attaches to your boot and imports data (speed, carve angles, jump heights, rotations and more) to your smartphone. It even generates a report detailing what you did well and which skills you could improve upon—just like a coach would do. $190.

| JOHN CRAIG

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GET THE BAND BACK TOGETHER Grungy garage-born instrumentals are out, and smooth, technically proficient audio is in. Produce crisp sounds on the Roland TD-50KVX V-Drums set, a five-piece drum kit that blends electronic and acoustic beats. And you can march to the beat of your drum: Customize everything from the drum shell’s overtones to the cymbals’ thicknesses, and utilize 30 types of built-in sound effects. $8,000.

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SOUNDS LIKE A GOOD IDEA Add style and reduce the clutter on your tabletop with the Symfonisk table lamp speaker. A joint product by Ikea and Sonos, the device boasts a sound output similar to the iconic Sonos One speaker. Highachieving in both aesthetic and audio quality, this product ushers in a new element of interior design: sound. $179.

LUXU RY VAC AT I O N & S E AS O N A L R E N TA L S

Casey Potter, Owner

CO N C I E R G E - ST Y L E R E N TA L M A N AG E M E N T

Naples & Marco Island, Florida | Lexington, KY 239.349.2494 | THEHOLIDAYLIFE.COM INFO@THEHOLIDAYLIFE.COM

ESSENTIALS

MADE-TO-MEASURE

You deserve a custom suit from John Craig’s made-to-measure program that’s tailored to your size and tastes.

Our five John Craig stores carry every brand, fit and suit style a well-dressed gentleman could ever want, but sometimes, off-the-rack just doesn’t cut it. That’s why we also have a made-to-measure program for our most loyal customers, where our expert tailors design and create garments to perfectly suit you. Here, our very own Craig DeLongy models his custom John Craig creations.

| JOHN CRAIG

Craig DeLongy wears a custom made-to-measure jacket, vest, shirt and pants by our in-house label, John Craig Reserve.

From your suit jacket style, lining preference, lapel and thread color to the buttons on your sportcoat, your shirt material and the length of your sleeves, our made-to-measure team does it all. Craig’s shoes are by DiBianco and his cuff links by Tasso.

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FALL/HOLIDAY 2019

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ESSENTIALS

HOT STUFF

These cold-weather pieces, some of our favorites of the season, are key to looking (and feeling) simultaneously comfortable and cool.

| JOHN CRAIG

Clockwise from top left, boots and sneakers by DiBianco, sweater by Stenstrรถms, mini wallet by Secrid, flask by Ettinger, jacket by Waterville, belt

by W. Kleinberg.

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S H O W R O O M M I L A N | N E W YO R K | T O K YO | M O S C A

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| JOHN CRAIG

THE LEADING MAN

Like a Rock One-time third-generation pro wrestler Dwayne Johnson has become a firmly established—and nattily dressed—screen star. By Daria Meoli

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Jungle and Skyscraper as well as three of The Fast and the Furious films.

In 2015, Johnson premiered as the lead (and executive producer) in the HBO series Ballers. In the smash hit, Johnson plays a retired NFL player who becomes a financial planner for professional athletes. During his stint on that show, it wasn’t just Johnson’s acting that got audiences and critics talking; it was also his slick sense of style on and off the small screen.

A far cry from the black briefs he wore as a WWE wrestling champ, Johnson’s sartorial choices now befit his current status as a Hollywood A-lister and a bit of a fashion champ.

While slim, sinewy celebs can perhaps adopt any trend and look good, Johnson’s big build isn’t a natural for strutting in high-fashion duds—the actor must make style choices that accentuate and flatter his physique. Rather than dress his large body in even larger clothes, Johnson dons threads by Isaia and other Italian brands that demonstrate how an athletically built guy can look smashing in European tailoring. In the pages of fashion magazines such as GQ and Esquire and the posts of authoritative menswear bloggers, style watchers tout Johnson as the gold standard for how big men can make a big, but far from ponderous, impression in really cool clothes.

Classic cuts rather than slim fits are the basis for Johnson’s wardrobe. As with any buff dude, alterations and custom-tailored pieces are essential to help him look his best. Johnson’s suiting is crafted to create breathing room under his arms

and around his shoulders to keep sportcoats from looking like straitjackets. Padding in the shoulders is kept to a minimum. Johnson tends to favor a tieless, open-neck look that complements his broad neck. His pants often are tailored with a straight leg and a slight taper to accommodate his muscular thighs.

Off-screen and off the red carpet, the California native rocks T-shirts with a tightly fitted sleeve that hits mid-bicep, but also has more room in the torso and abs. This keeps the star looking casual without necessarily appearing gymbound. Biker jackets are badass, but the asymmetrical zipper and tapered waist can appear cartoonish on men who have some meat on their bones. Johnson has been photographed in a leather racer jacket, a version of the tough biker look that befits his beefcake frame.

Now 47 and the father of three daughters, Johnson continues to make Hollywood headlines.

In the coming year, he will appear in another installment of Fast and Furious, a sequel to Jumanji and the fifth season of Ballers. As he navigates red carpets and the late-night circuit to promote all of this new work, this officially recognized icon seems certain to keep fashion-minded fans impressed, both on and off screen.

As for Johnson’s secret, you wouldn’t suspect that such simple things as humility and authenticity would be part of it—but just maybe they are.

“You are the reason I’m getting this,” he told the viewing audience at home during his MTV acceptance remarks. “I’ve learned the most powerful thing we can be is ourselves.”

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Wrestler-turned-box-office-champ Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson has become a fashion star in his own right, making both custom suits from Isaia and casualwear from Gucci look stylish on his 6-4 frame. Johnson has the sartorial confidence to wear just about anything, whether it be a plaid suit or a fitted knit sweater.

FALL/HOLIDAY 2019

ith one powerfully arched eyebrow, Dwayne Johnson could command an audience of thousands of rowdy wrestling fans. Today, his megawatt smile and formidable comedic timing draw big box-office ticket sales. Johnson has done what few other professional wrestlers have been able to do (OK, there’s John Cena): parlay a role in the ring into a successful acting career.

Long known to World Wrestling Entertainment fans as “The Rock,” Johnson began professional wrestling after a football career was cut short by injuries. Wrestling is in his DNA. His original moniker, Rocky Maivia, was a tribute to two other pro grapplers in his family—his father, Rocky Johnson, and his maternal grandfather, Peter Maivia. By 1998, when he shortened his stage name to The Rock, his popularity was exploding.

“When I first got to Hollywood, Hollywood didn’t know what the hell to do with me…a half-black, half-Samoan, 6-foot-4, 275-pound pro wrestler,” Johnson recalled, while accepting the Icon Generation Award at the 2019 MTV Movie and TV Awards.

Soon Tinseltown wised up. When The Rock hosted Saturday Night Live in 2000, the world got to experience his charisma, and his performance earned him fans outside the WWE world. His first movie acting credit was as the Scorpion King in The Mummy Returns in 2000. His character was so popular that in 2002 it spawned an eponymous sequel. Johnson went on to become one of the country’s highest-paid actors, appearing in the movies Get Smart, Tooth Fairy, Moana, The Other Guys, G.I. Joe: Retaliation, Jumanji: Welcome to the

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY REVELO STUDIOS

128 PARK AVENUE SOUTH, WINTER PARK, FL 32789 CURRENTMEN.COM • 407.628.1087

JOHN VARVATOS USA • STRONG SUIT • JBRAND • STONE ROSE • TED BAKER AND MANY MORE...

FERRARI’S HOTTEST

F8 Tributo, the Italian brand’s new flagship, is a blend of its greatest hits and today’s chart-topping tech. By Darius Amos As if we needed another reason to sing the praises of Ferrari, the iconic Italian carmaker has rolled out yet another head turner. Gone from its lineup of speed demons is the 488, replaced triumphantly with the F8 Tributo. It’s easily the new flagship for the legendary brand, whose lineage includes some of history’s most recognizable and quintessential sportscars. (The Testarossa and 308 GTS come to mind.) And it pays tribute to many of its Ferrari ancestors, borrowing design elements from the F40 and the Pista. Performance, however, is all its own. The Tributo is muscled by a 710-horsepower V-8, the highest output ever for a Ferrari equipped with that engine size. Engineers say it can reach a top speed of 211 miles per hour and finish a 0-to-62 dash in 2.9 seconds, two stats aided by top-of-class aerodynamics. The Tributo, which has an estimated price tag of $350,000, has sexy curves, like many Ferrari models and unlike the aggressive lines found on competitors like the Lamborghini Huracan and McLaren 720S. Though styling has always been the company’s forte, Ferrari has never needed sex to sell.

| JOHN CRAIG

One of the Tributo’s front-end features is the air intake system. Left and right vents provide cooling for the brakes and wheel arches, which naturally heat when drivers have the need for speed.

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Boosting the car’s aerodynamics begins front and center. The S-Duct was specially designed to expel high pressure flow from the central bumper by deflecting it upward through the hood bonnet. Highway driving has never been this fun (or fast).

A 7-inch touchscreen is mounted in front of the passenger, giving the co-pilot a clear view of the car’s vitals and command of the infotainment system, climate controls and more.

Drivers, after all, can’t have all the fun.

Twin LED displays flank a central tachometer on the driver’s instrumentation cluster.

The screens show everything from the car’s gear selection to satellite radio stations so the driver’s head (and racecar focus) rarely has to shift.

While you can select a variety of wheels, the optional starburst design is an aggressive twist on the classic five-spoke rim. The focal point of the wheel, of course, is Ferrari’s prancing horse on a field of yellow.

You can not only feel the power of the Tributo’s 710-horsepower engine, but also see it in action (unless you’re driving, of course).

Ferrari’s engine-underglass bodywork offers a full view of the midmounted V-8.

Maybe you’d like to forget 1980s fashion, but the Tributo’s louvered rear window (a throwback to Ferrari’s legendary F40 of the late ’80s and early ’90s) is a style from that bygone era that Ferrari brings back with pride.

Rearview highlights include the return of Ferrari’s twin tail light cluster—a throwback to the brand’s old 308 models—and a lightweight carbon-fiber spoiler that doesn’t add many pounds but still lowers the car’s center of gravity.

FALL/HOLIDAY 2019

Ferrari debuts its new steering wheel in the Tributo. The design features a flat bottom for added comfort and convenience and more on-wheel controls such as a push-button start and paddle shifters.

Steering-column stalks are clearly things of the past.

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What a comeback! | JOHN CRAIG

Some hotels rest on their laurels, but not these four.

They’ve remade themselves—with exciting results.

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We admit it: It can be fun to visit an old dowager of a hotel, one whose genteel worn carpets whisper that it’s still trading on a reputation from decades ago. But how much more exciting to stay at an old place that has made itself dramatically new, so that a location full of great yesterdays—and great scenery—can also offer the ultimate hospitality of today.

When we say the famous hotels on the following pages have recently been renovated, we don’t mean a repainted lobby here and a new sprinkler system there. We mean they’ve been stripped bare, reimagined, reconfigured, redesigned and studded with state-of-theart amenities to more than delight the luxury traveler with the most demanding 2020 foresight. Depending on what continent you’re headed to, might one of them be on your itinerary soon?

CONTINUED...

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| JOHN CRAIG

BELMOND CAP JULUCA, Anguilla, Caribbean

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Since it opened in 1988, this hotel, a cluster of Greco-Moorish-style villas, has been classed among the top upscale accommodations on this popular Caribbean island. A-listers such as Denzel Washington and Liam Neeson have been among its loyalists, booking their favorite villas year after year. But in 2017, when the hotel was acquired by luxury leisure company Belmond, it was long overdue for an update, especially after Hurricane Irma destroyed everything at the resort except a few villas. So in late 2018, the establishment reopened as the Belmond Cap Juluca, with two new restaurants, revamped guest accommodations, an upscale spa and a whole new aesthetic inspired by Moroccan design and architecture.

Change is apparent with one’s first steps into the indoor/outdoor lobby, as crisp white linens, wicker chairs and an eye-catching chandelier replace the former Arabian-style décor. Guest rooms and suites boast handmade tiles underfoot, sprawling bathroom suites and unique accents that show immaculate attention to detail, such as tassels hung on the doors instead of donot-disturb signs. The cuisine here makes hunger a blessing—as an excuse to indulge. Grab an Italian meal on the waterfront at the new Cip’s by Cipriani, or savor Anguilla-European fusion at the revamped Pimms restaurant.

What remains largely unchanged post-reno is the unparalleled staff attention—your stay comes with 24-hour butler service, with one staff member for every two guests.

INSIDER’S TIP: Don’t leave this resort without at least one ride in the Belmond Buggy, a leather-seated, air-conditioned joy-ride vehicle reminiscent of Scooby-Doo’s Mystery Machine.

RATES: Rooms begin at $675 a night.

THE OBEROI, New Delhi, India

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It’s appropriate that the capital of India is home to what was once known as the nation’s fanciest hotel; now it’s new and improved after 50 years in business.

Shortly after its half-century birthday, management of the iconic Oberoi, New Delhi went through a mid-life crisis of sorts, feeling that the hotel was outdated, and hoping to reinvent it with a more modern, relevant vibe that still spoke to its upscale clientele. Just shy of two years after construction began in 2016, Oberoi, New Delhi reopened, revealing a sleek, $100 million refurbishment inspired by the late Sir Edwin Lutyens’ New Delhi architecture.

And what a reveal it’s been. All 220 guest rooms including 34 suites have been enlarged and outfitted with luxury amenities such as Italian marble bathrooms, teak floors and large picture windows. Natural light now hits just about everywhere, and 40 air filters were installed throughout the hotel to provide the cleanest, freshest, healthiest air in this heavily polluted city.

Updated dining and imbibing options were added to the offerings too; The Oberoi hired two Michelin-starred chefs to run Omya and Baoshuan, the hotel’s Indian and Chinese eateries, respectively, and introduced the new rooftop bar Cirrus 9, where guests can sip mixed drinks while looking out on Humayun’s Tomb, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, on one side and the Delhi Golf Course, India’s oldest, on the other. A hotel’s interior may change for the better, but the view outside? Nobody’s going to mess with perfection.

INSIDER’S TIP: If you’re hankering for a smoke, head over to The Club Bar and Cigar Lounge, the latter of which is attached to The Oberoi, New Delhi’s bar and offers personal cigar lockers (and yes, the air purification thing applies here too).

RATES: Summer prices start at $220 a night; winter stays go for around $290.

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| JOHN CRAIG

THE FIFE ARMS, Braemar, Scotland

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Credited with “Scotland’s most exciting hotel opening of 2019” by Conde Nast Traveler, The Fife Arms has a lot of hype to live up to. The 19th-century hunting lodge with a many-gabled Victorian façade has always been architecturally special, befitting a facility 15 miles down the road from the royals’ Balmoral Castle. But for years it was underwhelming—a Financial Times writer recalled a sign warning of a leaky ceiling, next to which, sure enough, “a plastic bucket collected the rhythmic drops of water.” Well, forget all that! In December 2014, A-list art dealers Iwan and Manuela Wirth purchased the property, then closed it for four years of renovations, eventually opening its doors in late 2018 to rave reviews.

Located in Braemar, a village in Aberdeenshire, Scotland, The Fife Arms underwent the overhaul of all overhauls; the renovation involved transforming 80 guest rooms into 46 more spacious ones and adding a spa, a garden and a bar, among other luxury amenities. But perhaps the biggest undertaking was imbuing artful touches into every room, including paintings by Pablo Picasso, Lucian Freud and Queen Victoria. Antique furnishings and period wallpaper adorn the guest suites, and if you wander into a particular ill-lit corner you’ll stumble upon Victoria herself—in wax.

The Fife Arms’ eating establishments are Scotland through-andthrough as well, from its neighborhood bar The Flying Stag to The Clunie Dining Room and the Art Deco bar Elsa’s, inspired by fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, a frequent visitor to Braemer.

INSIDER’S TIP: This hotel is dog-friendly; the Wirths have blocked off several rooms for guests to stay in with their furry friends.

RATES: Rooms start at $325 per night.

HOTEL LUTETIA, Paris, France

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Making over a century-old Art Deco hotel in the heart of Paris’ Saint Germain neighborhood is quite an undertaking. That’s especially true when it’s the iconic Left Bank hostelry where Picasso lived for a short while in the 1930s, where author James Joyce allegedly wrote a portion of Ulysses, where the rooms housed Nazi officers during World War II. But architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte was up to the challenge, undertaking a four-year, $234 million renovation on Hotel Lutetia—the first renovation in its 100-year history—that concluded in 2018 and maintains the spirit of the original Lutetia while appealing to the 21st century traveler.

Just what was involved in such a venture? Turning 233 pre-existing guest rooms into 184 larger ones, building a new courtyard, installing custom-built 19th century-style furniture and adding natural light to windowed bathrooms and common areas, among other things.

The food and drink options have been improved upon too, with seafood expert and three-Michelin-starred chef Gérald Passédat at the helm of Brasserie Lutetia. Guests and locals can also enjoy a memorable meal at Le Saint-Germain Restaurant or the more casual L’Orangerie, or grab a creatively mixed cocktail at Bar Aristide or Bar Josephine, the latter named for French starlet Josephine Baker, who frequented the original bar.

INSIDER’S TIP: Complete your experience at Lutetia by booking a treatment or taking a fitness class at the brand-new Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre. A 55-foot swimming pool drenched in natural light and an infinity-edge hot tub are among this luxurious spa’s many standout features.

RATES: Stays begin at about $985 per night.

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329 N. Park Avenue, Suite 103 | Winter Park, FL 32789 | 407.975.9137 | www.orlandowatchco.com

A recurring dream car.

Introducing a dream once again made reality. The new Porsche 911.

443 horsepower fueling a zero to 60 time of 3.5 seconds. A cockpit that’s technologically advanced yet retains its classic design. A silhouette as iconic as the original. The dream has never been sweeter.

Experience the 911 Carrera S.

Porsche Naples 3147 Davis Blvd.

Naples, FL 34104 porschenaples.com (239) 214-8579 Š 2019 Porsche Cars North America, Inc. Porsche recommends seatbelt usage and observance of traffic laws at all times. Optional equipment extra.

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JOHN CRAIG:

From Our Customers

Three of our most devoted customers—and their sons—share what they love about the selection and overall shopping experience at John Craig.

Gavin Ford Owner, Panera Bread Gavin Ford Jr. Global Real Estate Advisor, Premier Sotheby’s International Realty How long have you been a customer?

Since 1996.

What sets John Craig apart?

Unparalleled style and availability of inventory. If I don’t know what I am looking for, they do.

Favorite memory?

Craig admonishing me with, “pleats are out!” I have worn flat front ever since. I’ve also enjoyed seeing my son start shopping at Current and John Craig in 2008.

Most treasured item?

Every off-the-rack Canali jacket I have, my suede DiBianco shoes and Eton shirts. It’s hard to narrow it down to one item.

Gavin Jr.’s look: L.B.M. 1911 sportcoat, Eton shirt, Peter Millar corduroy five-pocket pants, Edward Armah pocket square.

| JOHN CRAIG

Gavin’s look: Samuelsohn elbow patch sportcoat, Eton shirt and tie, Hiltl five-pocket pants, Stenströms pocket square.

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John, Jack and Michael Jennings General Contractors, Jack Jennings and Sons, Inc. How long have you been a customer?

Since the fall of 1996. I was serving on the national board of our trade association and needed a new suit and a tuxedo. I bought Hickey Freeman for both and have been a customer ever since.

What sets John Craig apart?

From causal wear to formal wear, John Craig has the best of everything. Debbie Mitchell is excellent at building a wardrobe.

Favorite memory?

It’s always a treat when Harper (Craig’s 4-year-old Border Collie) is at the store.

There is something fun about trying on clothes with Harper by your side. It’s also been great having my sons join me in the last few years.

Most treasured item?

My DiBianco shoes and custom Canali suits are pretty sweet.

Jack’s look: Peter Millar V-neck sweater, shirt and five-pocket pants, Smathers & Branson needlepoint belt.

John’s look: Made-to-measure Canali sportcoat,Eton shirt, Zanella pants, Edward Armah pocket square.

Michael’s look: Waterville vest, Peter Millar shirt and corduroy fivepocket pants, Smathers & Branson needlepoint belt.

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Dr. David Vaughan, Urologist David John Vaughan, Senior Associate, Marcus & Millichap How long have you been a customer?

I have been shopping at John Craig since 1996. David John started at Current and has recently started shopping at John Craig, as has my son-in-law.

What sets John Craig apart?

It’s one-stop shopping. In general, I hate to shop and have no time for it, but at John Craig I’m like a kid in a candy store.

I love the suits, sportcoats and selection of pants, shorts, shirts and ties. I even get most of my socks and underwear there.

Favorite memory?

Some of the best memories are picking out clothes and then having a sip of Scotch with Craig while solving the world’s problems. David John loves going into Current, restocking his closet and having a Peroni with Joshua and Jean Claude.

Most treasured item?

Pretty much everything in our closets is treasured, from custom tuxedos, belt and pocket square collections and many travel sportcoats.

David’s look: Peter Millar cable-knit sweater, Etro shirt, Hiltl five-pocket pants, W. Kleinberg belt, DiBianco loafers.

| JOHN CRAIG

David John’s look: Peter Millar vest, Calder plaid shirt, Gardeur five-pocket pants, Martin Dingman belt, DiBianco boots.

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made for mischief

the good life Smart sartorial choices will make you look and feel your best—whether you’re in the office or out on the town.

Photography by Greg Hinsdale

| JOHN CRAIG

Photographed on location at Burn Cigar Lounge, Naples, FL

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Leather jacket by Robert Graham, sweater by Gran Sasso, shirt by Sand, belt

by W. Kleinberg.

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| JOHN CRAIG

This page: sportcoat by Luigi Bianchi Mantova, double-zip sweater by Gran Sasso, shirt and tie by Eton, pocket square

by Edward Armah, trousers by Samuelsohn. Opposite page: shirt jacket by Eton, shirt by Stenstrรถms, corduroys by Gardeur, belt by Martin Dingman.

| JOHN CRAIG

This page: cable-knit cardigan, shirt and pants by Peter Millar. Opposite page: sportcoat by Samuelsohn, shirt

by Stenstrรถms, pocket square by Edward Armah.

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| JOHN CRAIG

This page: sweater jacket and shirt

by Stone Rose, pants by J Brand, belt by W. Kleinberg, bracelet by Pig & Hen, double monk strap shoes by Santoni. Opposite page: velvet sportcoat by Sand, gingham shirt by Robert Graham, jeans by DL1961, pocket square by Brackish.

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| JOHN CRAIG

This page: vest by Waterville, shirt by Eton, pocket square by Edward Armah, pants by Brax, sunglasses by Persol, woven belt by W. Kleinberg, bracelet

by Pig & Hen. Opposite page: sportcoat by Samuelsohn, crew neck sweater by Alan Paine, shirt by Eton, pocket square

by Edward Armah, pants by Gardeur.

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50 It’s a fact that any man looks good in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one, of course.

JACKET SLEEVE LENGTH

JACKET CUT Try a modern fit for a fashion-forward and flattering silhouette.

This style is trimmer through the chest and shoulder than a traditional-cut jacket and it’s still black-tie appropriate.

JACKET SHOULDER The same rules for your sportcoats and suit jackets apply: The padding of the tuxedo jacket should not extend beyond the tip of your shoulders. If it does, the garment is too big.

JACKET LAPEL Wear a grosgrain peak lapel for a rich textured feel when you attend a highly formal occasion and a rounded shawl style when you want to soften your look. A notch lapel is versatile but the least formal for a tuxedo.

SHIRT FRONT A smooth bib-front shirt, perhaps in a pique fabric with room for studs, is a classic look. A shirt with no placket and concealed buttons is clean, while a pleated front worn with studs adds textural interest.

SHIRT COLLAR The most popular and best bet for the most formal occasion is the laydown collar. For a more contemporary look, the mandarin collar is a great option.

TUXEDO DETAILS

| JOHN CRAIG

FORMAL EDUCATION Co

FALL/HOLIDAY 2019

SHOES Patent loafers and oxfords are a sure-fire hit for the most formal events. Keep it low key by choosing the styles in suede or polished leather.

PANT LEG LENGTH See your tailor ASAP if your pants are bunching at the ankles (or showing them).

Trousers should have half or no break. The half break is standard, showing a slight dent where the hem rests on the top of the shoe. Any larger break will look like you’re wearing your father’s suit.

PANT LEG WIDTH The way the fabric drapes is key: Anything too tight will create wrinkles, while too much material will appear baggy. Find a cut that’s flattering to your waist, thighs and calves.

JACKET LENGTH Most guys can follow these easy guides: Your jacket should cover your backside and, with your arms at your side, the piece should end between your thumb’s knuckle and base. For a more modern fit, ask us how you can go even shorter.

e.

JACKET SLEEVE LENGTH The jacket sleeve should show a generous amount of the shirt cuff—just enough for others to see your cuff links.

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Consider these head-to-toe tips to find the perfect look for your next special occasion.

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STYLE WATCH

That’s amore!

What makes one boot-shaped nation so stellar in menswear?

It’s no accident that a nation long renowned for art, architecture, design and cuisine inspires the rest of the world when it comes to fashion. Steeped in tradition, men’s Italian fashion in particular is often a step or two ahead of everyone else, and Italian gents possess this undeniable confidence that’s hard to pinpoint. We attempt to do just that here though, by sharing the seven tenets of Italian menswear that will keep you looking as cool around town as the men in the piazza.

| JOHN CRAIG

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EMBRACE COLORS Though Italians certainly love a good print (Etro’s printed button-up shirts and scarves are quintessential examples), Italian collections consist of lots of subdued neutrals, whether black, white and gray or warmer tones like beige, maroon and camel.

With these colors as the basis of your wardrobe, you can inject bursts of color in small doses (bright red or orange socks, perhaps?) and have more versatility with your looks. Pro tip: Invest in a classic navy blazer or jacket from a brand like Castangia, as this item is one no Italian man’s closet is without.

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SEEK FINE MATERIALS The Italian textile industry is one of the largest in the world. There are hundreds of wool mills and leather factories across Florence, Milan, Rome and Venice.

As of late, brands like Ermenegildo Zegna have been producing high-end luxury garments with new technical fabrics as well.

They regulate body heat, are more breathable and offer the wearer superior comfort, among other benefits.

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DRESS CASUAL, DON’T DRESS DOWN Luxury Italian menswear brands are no longer just designing suits and formalwear. From elevated activewear and polos to footwear and belts, Italian designers offer sartorial versatility with a common thread—sophistication.

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ADD ON THE ACCESSORIES Italian designers know the key to a polished look is careful accessorizing. Whether a wristful of bead or metal bracelets, a tony pocket square or a cozy, oversize scarf tied just right, these final touches adored by Italy’s most stylish instantly make any man look put-together.

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APPRECIATE CRAFTSMANSHIP Much Italian menswear is still produced by small- to medium-sized family businesses—or it’s contracted out to craftspeople who sew in their homes. That means tricks of the trade (the Neapolitan shoulder, hand-sewn buttonholes, artisanal details) are passed down through generations. That family name on the label tells you the garment reflects tremendous pride in quality.

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INSIST ON FIT You’ll be hard-pressed to find an Italian man wearing ill-fitting anything; these guys are raised knowing clothes should be perfectly and expertly tailored. Italian menswear designers like Canali and L.B.M. available at John Craig pride themselves on their garments’ impeccable fit, which is typically a slim, universally flattering silhouette.

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SHOW SOME SWAGGER The Italians have mastered the art of dressing so well it’s merited its own term—sprezzatura, which essentially means effortlessness, a certain nonchalance, “trying not to try.” We Americans may have to try just a little harder to look half as polished, but hey, we’re certainly willing to put in the work.

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THE SPORTING LIFE

the french connection If you make plans to ski at Alpe d’Huez in France this winter, there’s every chance that you’ll be one of the few Yanks on the slopes. Maybe the only one.

Beyond the French who flock here from Paris and the provinces, the resort is also beloved by Brits. Together they set the tone of the resort, which manages to be both friendly and chic, appealing to families and to youthful partiers.

The resort flies under the radar for most Americans, even though it was named Europe’s Best Ski Resort 2019 by European Best Destinations, the second time it’s been singled out. If you recognize the name Alpe d’Huez at all, it’s likely because it offers one of the toughest and most challenging climbing days during the annual Tour de France race in July.

You come to Alpe d’Huez not for a stuffy, jet-set party scene like the one in Courchevel or for hardcore skiing as they do in Les Arcs, but for the terrific and varied skiing and the quietly chic accommodations, many of which are family friendly. Getting here is easy as well, since it’s about a 90-minute drive south of Grenoble.

I came to ski the legendary run called Sarenne, which is the single longest ski run in the world at nearly 10 miles. Personal best aside, what I discovered was that Alpe d’Huez offers much more than mere statistics.

| JOHN CRAIG

The skiing

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Part of the Grandes Rousses massif, the village is located at 6,102 feet, set on a plateau below the mountain and surrounded by other peaks on all sides.

It is a very beautifully situated resort, one of the best in the world.

The slopes themselves are south-facing, so that long, sunny days are the rule here. For sun-starved Europeans in winter, that is a major attraction, and not all that common in the Alps. There’s a reason that the French call it L’île du Soleil, or Island of the Sun. It’s also one of France’s largest ski resorts, with 155 miles of skiable pistes when you include the neighboring linked resorts. That means plenty of interconnected skiing on the slopes of the neighboring villages of Auris, Villard Reculas, Oz en Oisans and Vaujany.

As a skier, you get a sense of setting out on a different

At Alpe d’Huez in the Alps, great skiing matches up with unforgettable scenery, dining and nightlife. By Everett Potter

journey every morning, which is one of the primary reasons I love to ski in Europe.

Alpe d’Huez is one of those rare resorts that offer a wide variety of skiing terrain at all levels as well. There are steeps—the longest vertical drop in the world at over 6,000 feet is here—but there is also an abundance of blue and green runs, with miles of moderately vertical, well-groomed slopes that are perfect for intermediates who want to feel like heroes on skis. All said, it’s pretty much a perfect destination for families or for couples and friends of different skiing abilities.

My goal was to tackle the Sarenne run, which goes off from the summit of the Pic Blanc glacier.

I reached it by the two-stage DMC gondola from the resort, the Téléphérique des Grandes Rousses, followed by a ride in a cable car. Sarenne, at 9.9 miles, is the longest black run in the Alps. There were some tough bits, but much of it turned out to be surprisingly forgiving. What it really demands of you is endurance. Skiing nearly 10 miles is a real workout, and I made my fair share of stops on the way down to rest my burning thighs.

The next day, my friends went back up the mountain for another challenge. Le Tunnel is a black run from the summit that requires that you ski through a corridor of rock and onto an icy mogul field. It can be dangerous enough that falling is a particularly bad idea. I already had made up my mind to leave them to the challenge and headed down some blue slopes until we met up for lunch.

The slopeside lunch is a ritual in Europe and nowhere more than in France. You’re spoiled with choices at Alpe d’Huez. Our favorite was Chez Passoud, just above the village of Oz, where charcuterie was followed by tartiflette, a fondue made with the local Reblochon cheese. We also liked Chalet du Lac Besson, where lamb and seafood grilled over an open fire were delicious. Out of the way but also delicious was the classic Savoie faire at L’Altiport.

For those who still have energy to burn after a morning on the pistes and a long lunch, La Folie Douce is famed for its views and for encouraging dancing on the tables. Many guests seem to oblige. It should be visited at least once during your stay. My

verdict: The champagne was great, the energy unbelievable, the dancing best left to agile 20-somethings.

The village Alpe d’Huez’s resort village is split into quartiers. The Viel Alpe quartier, also known as the Old Town, is best for nightlife. The chic-est shopping is on Avenue des Jeux. From an architectural standpoint, it’s a bit of a hodgepodge of chalet-style buildings and modern construction. That said, those mountain views, the high-season energy on the streets and that reliable sun together make the village a welcoming place.

Our favorite dinner was at Au Montagnard, a classic in town with wood beams and lace curtains, where I enjoyed steak cooked on a hot stone one night and raclette the next. A slightly fancier meal was on offer at La Crémaillère, which was also housed in a charming chalet building, and they had French mountain fare such as onion soup and Côte du Boeuf.

Nighttime? If you intend to stay out until 2 a.m., then the New Sphere, Freeride Café and Underground Bar are where to head, as well as the tried and true Smithys Tavern. Since my idea of late night after a day of Alpine skiing is 9:30 p.m., I had a quick cognac. You should plan on arriving at least two hours later, just when they start getting lively.

Daria-I Nor There’s been a lot of buzz about Daria-I Nor, which just opened in December. The sister resort to Hotel Koh-I Nor in Val Thorens and Hotel Taj-I Mah in Arc 2000, Daria-I Nor is a “ski in, ski out” hotel with just 46 rooms, each with a private balcony, faux fur throws and phenomenal views. The darkened lobby has highback chairs and spotlights and feels like a chic urban club. The concept of wellness looms large here. The spa is 8,600 square feet, with the requisite pool, Jacuzzi and a hammam, as well as two saunas and a relaxing indoor pool with a fountain. The dining is on the formal side at L’Améthyste, while Table de Daria has traditional French mountain fare. It’s the most sublime hotel in all of Alpe d’Huez, a property I would gladly check into on a return visit. There’s no question that after my first trip here, I’ll be back.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Skiing Sarenne takes endurance—at 9.9 miles, it’s the longest black run in the Alps; nightlife at Alpe d’Huez’s resort village includes a bevy of taverns, bars and cafes; guests at the Daria-I Nor hotel can enjoy traditional French mountain fare at Table de Daria; each of the hotel’s 46 guestrooms has a balcony with slopeside panoramas; aircraft and gondola rides offer breathtaking views of the Alps.

PURSUITS

Kiss the Road Goodbye

| JOHN CRAIG

Spacious luxury goes wild in the Mercedes-Benz G 550 SUV, a modern masterpiece of tech that’s hyper-ready for an encounter with tough terrain. By Timothy Kelley

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Once you leave the highway and take to rough turf, it stands to reason you’ll bid adieu to luxury, capaciousness and speed. But wait! The Mercedes-Benz G 550 stands reason on its head.

Melting categories like so much candle wax, this cargo-hungry off-road SUV (with more than 100 cubic feet of cargo volume behind front and rear seats) is every inch a Mercedes. It was thoroughly redesigned for 2019, carries five passengers in comfort, boasts 416 horsepower with 450 lb.-ft. of torque and goes from 0 to 60 in 5.6 seconds.

On-road or off-, the G 550’s engine shows a family resemblance to its racing-minded kin.

It’s a 4.0-liter V8 biturbo, which means two turbochargers are sucking air into the cylinders, for more power with less engine bulk. It’s equipped with an independent suspension with a double-wishbone front axle and a rigid rear

axle. The vehicle boasts permanent all-wheel drive, and its ECO start-stop system automatically shuts off the engine at stoplights and other idling occasions—to save fuel and cut emissions—and quickly restarts it on green. (Don’t want this feature? Simply turn it off.)

The latest G is still no curvaceous sweeping beauty. But in both tech and luxe there’s outsidethe-box thinking inside this box. And while the traditional side-opening swing gate (clumsy for narrow garage spaces) has its quibblers, some things didn’t need changing. The decisive door-lock “clack” and door-closing “clunk,” for instance, will sound just fine in the 2020s.

Reportedly about 350 pounds lighter than its predecessor, the G 550 features a 9G-Tronic ninespeed automatic transmission that changes gears quickly and almost unnoticeably for the smooth-

est ride as you grip the Nappa leather-wrapped steering wheel. And there’s a sequence of three lockable differentials controlled by dashboard buttons to maintain optimal balance between torque and traction.

Almost five inches wider now, the G 550’s interior lavishes six extra inches of legroom on backseat riders. And drivers will savor the 12.3-inch flat-panel display screens showing gauges, while a multicolor ambient lighting setup makes for a surprisingly customizable interior. Was roughing it ever so swanky?

The G 550 starts at $124,500, and with mpg ratings of 13 city and 17 highway there’s no quick payback at the pump. But if your accountant balks, take her for a ride—across the desert, perhaps, or to the parking lot of the trendiest restaurant in Beverly Hills. You only live once.

The Mercedes-Benz G 550 SUV gives new meaning to the phrase “peak performance,” declining to make the usual sacrifice of commodious comfort for the thrill of off-road adventure. It’s available in 24 exterior paint colors—and note the LED daytime running lights that ring the round headlamps.

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| JOHN CRAIG

FITNESS

Have You Tried Capoeira?

Dance + martial arts + the spirit of a game = great exercise, Brazilian style. By Haley Longman

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razil is known for nuts, soccer stars, bikinis and the supermodels who wear them. But have you heard of that South American country’s martial-arts-meets-dance workout, capoeira?

If not, it’s not because it’s too new; capoeira dates back to the early 1500s. The masters of African slaves in Brazil didn’t permit them to fight, so the slaves created this art to disguise fighting with dancing. It also was (and is) a means of self-defense and self-expression. But only lately has it become an international workout trend.

Capoeira’s maneuvers are choppy, with sweeping punches and kicks, spins and head-butts. Speed and technique vary slightly by type of capoeira. There are two main types: Angola (traditional) and Regional (usually faster and more aggressive). But across the board the so-called game’s fundamental movement is the ginga (the Portuguese word for “sway”), a back-and-forth motion intended to prevent oneself from being a stagnant target. In both forms, only the hands and feet touch the ground.

In contrast to its cousin jiu-jitsu, capoeira has music as an intrinsic feature, one that sets the tempo and style of motions that are performed to traditional African instruments such as the berimbau (string instrument), the pandeiro (tambourine) and the atabaque (drum). There is also singing in Portuguese, and you’ll appreciate the lyrics more if you pick up a smattering of that language, predominant in Brazil. But mastery isn’t mandatory.

Brazil attracts thousands of tourists yearly who gather round just to watch capoeiristas, as practitioners are called, in action. And since the 1970s, mestres, or masters, have been traveling to each of the continents to teach this art form, so that it eventually caught on beyond South America.

Now fitness studios such as Abadá-Capoeira teach classes for around $18 a pop in New York and San Francisco. Other

all-encompassing gyms in cities like Los Angeles, London and even Tucson offer capoeira lessons to beginners and experts, and sometimes even kids, in single sessions or in bulk.

What can a newbie expect? Many classes begin with stretching before students are divvied up into groups by skill level or age to practice various movements. At the end of each session, participants form a roda (the Portuguese word for “circle”) in which two dancers essentially face off and perform the moves they’ve learned. And though professionals don a capoeira uniform that typically consists of a white shirt and a pair of loose trousers, for novices standard workout clothes are fine—though roomy pants you can move in are preferred over shorts.

Apart from its novelty and its cultural tradition, capoeira has clear benefits as exercise. It improves upper-body strength, cardio condition, stamina and overall flexibility— in fact, some capoeiristas are as flexible as professional yogis.

Hollywood hasn’t failed to notice this phenomenon.

Superheroes in the recent blockbusters Captain America: Civil War and Black Panther have used capoeira in combat. Dustin Hoffman was practicing the art when he first appeared on screen in Meet the Fockers (2004), and Cate Blanchett employed it to fight her enemies in 2017’s Thor: Ragnarok. Victoria’s Secret model Adriana Lima (who is—you guessed it—Brazilian) counts capoeira among her workouts. Action star Wesley Snipes is trained in it, and Ultimate Fighting Championship fighter Conor McGregor incorporates capoeira into his winning fighting style. “The human body can move in many ways,” he told a sports website in 2013, “and that’s what I’m trying to do.”

Perhaps a well-known mestre said it best when he declared: “The more you devote to capoeira, the more capoeira will return to you.”

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| JOHN CRAIG

GOURMET

The stew of Mexico

Bowls of tasty posole are like snowflakes—no two are exactly alike. By Donna Rolando

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propelled posole on a journey beyond its homeland to growing popularity in the States, at restaurants in LA, Houston and San Diego, for example—and perhaps soon an eatery near you.

Just what is this dish that more and more Americans are putting on their culinary radar? The word originates with Nahuati, the language spoken by the Aztecs of pre-Hispanic Mexico, and may mean hominy (referring to the shelled, dried corn that is the star of this recipe). The large hominy kernels (cacahuazintle) are soaked (usually in water with lime) until they puff up; your taste buds can anticipate a chewy texture that smacks of corn tortilla. Other featured players are generally braised pork (for which chicken can be substituted—or, for a vegetarian dish, beans) and garlic.

So get your stockpot or track down a restaurant that serves posole, and discover why it’s becoming so popular in

the U.S. Chefs love how this recipe, with its humble foundation, is just right for customization. And talk about variety!

Among its many versions, posole comes in red, green and white—the colors of the Mexican flag. You won’t find any red or green salsas in the white version, while green can include tomatillo, cilantros or even jalapeños, and red relies more heavily on chiles like ancho. Then there’s the wide choice of toppings—everything from finely chopped onions, lettuce and radishes to avocado and lime—teamed up with tasty tostadas and crema.

It should perhaps be mentioned that the corn so basic to this stew had sacred significance to the Aztecs, who believed the gods made humans out of corn-meal dough. But there’s no need to dig that deep to discover why this is a cherished taste sensation. Feel free to experiment! After all, that’s what posole is all about.

While meat, peppers and other spices may vary, every bowl of posole is made with hominy—shelled, dried corn.

FALL/HOLIDAY 2019

ike treasured heirlooms handed down through generations, some recipes are prized for their constancy; chefs— even the home variety—follow them to the letter as though any change might break the culinary spell. (What would Grandma say?) But others are born with a wild streak, just begging for creativity.

Posole, Mexico’s national stew (or is it more of a soup?), is the second kind—simple, yet so appetizing it’s a favorite on special occasions such as New Year’s and Christmas. (Don’t be surprised, though, to see it pop up on ordinary days as well, because why wait?) Indeed, this robust recipe originating from native Mexican tribes has the right stuff to warm up body and soul in the winter and still be a hit in the summer sunshine—it knows no bounds.

It’s that anything-goes spirit—no two bowls are ever the same—that has

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SPIRITS

SIX DEGREES OF COGNAC Why is this spirit so hip? Exacting production and ageing standards tell part of the tale. By Harry Dowden

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rime novelist Mickey Spillane had a ready reason why his fictional hero, detective Mike Hammer, so often drank beer: “Because I can’t spell cognac.” But today pop culture has discovered the spirit, orthography be damned. Cognac is one of the most popular sips among the most influential stars. Appreciating a fine glass of XO is a sure sign of sophistication and taste, and its authenticity and no-compromises production are a big part of its appeal.

Cognac is a complex beverage with a 500-year history and it takes its name from the area in southwest France where it is made under a set of strict guidelines. Brandies can be produced all over, but only those from Cognac itself may bear that moniker. Blends are composed of various eaux-de-vie (“waters of life”), twice copper-distilled wine (at least 90 percent Ugni Blanc varietal) that must age for a minimum of two years in oak (Limousin or Tronçais only, s’il vous plaît). The six blends on the following pages rest for much, much longer, however. A “young” cognac is still a delectable and smooth experience, but age brings the elixir to another level. Kick back with a snifter and the things you enjoy most in life—you may not be jet-setting in a G6 like some of cognac’s biggest fans, but you’ll feel on top of the world.

(A quick note on nomenclature: Until only last year, for a cognac to be deemed XO—extra old—required that the youngest blend component have remained in oak for six years. But that minimum was raised to 10 years—cognacs with threads below that aged now receive the Napoléon grade, the next one down.)

| JOHN CRAIG

SPIRITS

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LOUIS XIII

COURVOISIER XO

Beloved by iconic singer Rihanna, Louis XIII is one of the most exceptional cognacs available. One hundred percent of the wines distilled for this blend are from grapes grown in the Grande Champagne cru, the premier subsection of six in the region whose harvests can be tapped for the beverage.

Each bottle of Louis XIII contains 1,200 blend components, meticulously sifted through and chosen. This is after only a “small” portion of eaux-devie are selected for the elusive path. The kicker? The cognac’s age makes a long-in-the-tooth 10-year XO minimum look like the blink of an eye. The minimum age for a LXIII blend component is 40 years, and some threads surpass the century-old mark.

The impressive age inspires a wide array of tasting notes, from the tropical to the earthy. The extended process has also lent the team a long-term vision that allows for careful consideration of processes, and an examination of our engagement with the passage of time. A collaborative effort with rapper and cognac connoisseur Pharrell Williams titled “100 Years” is both an homage to the lengthy creation process of the esteemed cognac and a plea to those who’d wish to pass on the tradition: a song, locked away, that will automatically release in 2117—if climate change and sea-level rise permit.

Recommended pairing: Barring dramatic medical advances, most of us won’t be able to hear what could be Mr. Williams’ magnum opus. Instead, spin a copy of Random Access Memories from another of France’s fi nest exports, the electronic music duo Daft Punk. Their retro-futuristic sounds will lay the perfect backdrop for the waves of fl avor that a glass of Louis XIII offers.

A focus on techniques from the house of Courvoisier leads to an incredibly smooth product. Working closely with many growers across four crus, producers take pride every step of the way. That is refl ected not just in the distillate, but also in the oak that houses it. For both grape and wood, the process begins from the ground up. Two-hundred-year-old oak is selected by in-house coopers, and staves are dried for three years before the barrels are complete. A year’s worth of grapes undergo primary fermentation before they are ready for cognac’s signature double distillation.

Sipping straight will be an immersive experience fi lled with big fl oral notes alongside caramel and dried citrus—think snacking on candied orange in a lush meadow. If you choose to mix it up a bit, Courvoisier recommends a classic sidecar: 5 parts cognac, 2 parts triple sec, 2 parts lemon juice, shaken well and strained.

Recommended pairing: Take a listen to mile-a-minute wordsmith Busta Rhymes’ early-aughts party hit, “Pass the Courvoisier Part II.” Pharrell Williams’s hook and his production as part of the Neptunes are just as smooth as the indelible beverage.

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| JOHN CRAIG

SPIRITS

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HENNESSY MARC NEWSON

HARDY XO RARE

Bold yet smooth, rich yet filled with subtleties, Hennessy has made a name as a luxury beverage of choice among creatives across different media. Arguably the first to use the XO distinction, Henny, as it’s lovingly referred to, is an excellent sipper and all-around cognac.

Notably using only the Ugni Blanc varietal, each bottle of Hennessy XO comprises 100 blending components. This depth of composition has led to a specific set of seven flavor notes that describe the journey through a pour of the elixir: Sweet Notes, Rising Heat, Spicy Edge, Flowing Flame, Chocolate Lull, Wood Crunches and Infinite Echo. These notes were deemed so evocative that acclaimed director Ridley Scott was commissioned to compose a sci-fi tribute exploring each of the “Seven Worlds.”

The special Marc Newson edition of the XO is another shining example of Hennessy’s collaborative spirit, showing a commitment to an aesthetic that prizes presentation alongside flavor. The designer’s reworking of the distinctive decanter utilizes horizontal striations to visually highlight both glass and liquid, and creates a uniquely textured object that reflects cognac’s many facets.

Recommended pairing: Savor a glass or two while watching Scott’s sci-fi watershed Blade Runner. Get your hands on 2007’s The Final Cut to appreciate the director’s true vision for the film as you do the same with the work of Hennessy’s blenders.

In a landscape of limited edition blends, many of which focus on the design of the bottle itself, Hardy has to be hailed not just for excellent cognac but also for refined aesthetics. Founded in the region by an English ex-pat, the house takes influence not just from the spirit’s production, but from other sources of specifically French creativity.

Claiming a haute couture philosophy and decidedly feminine influences, Hardy produces cognac filtered through the lens of an atelier: Scents are cited as heavy stylistic influences, with tasting notes leaning toward the floral, and carafe designs explicitly influenced by bottles of fine perfume.

Early collaborations with the Cristallerie Daum studio have resulted in beautiful collectibles whose contents are as intoxicating as their containers. Recent works with the Lalique brand highlight the seasons, paying homage to the passage of time so crucial to cognac and the springlike bouquet it can offer.

Recommended pairing: Damozels & Deities is the most recent volume on 19th century stained glass from researcher William Waters and photographer Alastair Carow-Cox. Take in the beauty that glass working can achieve while savoring the bouquet of Hardy XO.

| JOHN CRAIG

SPIRITS

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REMY MARTIN XO

HINE ANTIQUE XO PREMIER CRU

This is a classic take on the spirit and one that has showed immense staying power. The blend, with up to 400 components, is referred to as a Cognac Fine Champagne—its grapes sourced exclusively from vineyards in two of the region’s crus, Grande Champagne (50 percent+) and Petite Champagne.

The particular soil’s terroir encourages the level of ripeness in the grapes that makes the wine well-suited for the 24-hour double distillation process.

The eaux-de-vie that are produced from the distillation processes each year can number in the thousands, but many will not meet the standards required for them to be set down for a transformation in oak.

Years later, we are finally able to taste the product of this patience, hard work and informed selection. A drop of water can open up the cognac and enhance some of the more subtle fruity and spicy aromatics, just as it does with a fine whisky. Fatty cheeses and bold dark chocolates are among the great foods that pair well with cognac, but for its own XO, Rémy Martin recommends figs—a sweet treat that will bring out dried fruit flavors in the liquid that only time can develop.

If you want your cognac consumption to be a truly cinematic experience, check out the limited-edition XO packaging for the Cannes Film Festival. A pointillist take on the Rémy logo evokes the bright lights of a marquee and the flash of the paparazzi.

Recommended pairing: Kick back and take in the movie Port Authority, whose cast and crew made history voguing across the red carpet at Cannes.

The film is a chronicle of romance in the NYC ballroom scene, whose traditions and uncompromising creativity will pair well with the warmth in your glass.

For more than 250 years, the house of Hine has patiently crafted fine cognacs. One of its main tenets is “finesse”—a word with deep history that has maintained relevance, much like cognac itself, and come to represent a certain sense of style and cool. So how does one finesse excellent cognac out of the soil? For Hine’s Antique XO, it means a blend of 40 distinct eaux-de-vies, crafted exclusively from Grande Champagne grapes, and an average component age of 20 years.

The producers cite Cyrano de Bergerac and acclaimed Bach pianist Glenn Gould as inspirations/accompaniments for the blend. As with other producers, there is a crossover of disciplines and lifestyles that inform the making of the cognac—a balance between savoir faire and joie de vivre, a commitment to technique, and of course, a bit of finesse. This blend has a wonderful spice character, lending a particular boldness that evokes Cyrano’s noted panache.

Recommended pairing: Light up a Macanudo Cru Royale while you savor a glass; the cigar’s bold yet balanced flavor will stand up to the cognac without overpowering it. The two powerhouses working together deliver maximum enjoyment.

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For friction-free support.

GRAPE

The Verdicchio we didn’t know

Once typecast as plebeian and fish-friendly, this varietal now shows unsuspected depth and versatility. By Josh Sens

| JOHN CRAIG

Just as it’s unwise to judge a book by its cover, so is it unfair to judge a wine by its bottle. Consider the verdict on Verdicchio. For decades in the United States, the light, bright Italian white was widely associated with the glass container it frequently arrived in: a green, fish-shaped bottle, replete with fins and scales, a cork implanted in its gaping mouth.

The bottle was unmistakable, and it inspired assumptions. Consumers came to expect a pale-colored wine, high in acidity but low in nuance, with little about it that would stand in the way of the seafood with which it was most often served. As a general rule, their assumptions weren’t wrong.

Like wicker-bottle chianti, fishbottle Verdicchio was deemed an emblematic old-world-style table wine—inexpensive, easy-drinking, uncomplex. Not that there was anything wrong with that. But it also wasn’t all that Verdicchio could be.

“We knew that Verdicchio was capable of being so much more,” says Gianluca Garofoli of Garofoli winery in Italy. “But it had reached the point where the bottle was more famous than the wine inside.”

As a fifth-generation vintner in Le Marche (pronounced luh marKAY)—the eastern Italian region,

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near the Adriatic Sea, that doubles as ground zero for Verdicchio production—Garofoli understood the roots of the varietal’s reputation. The name stems from “verde,” the Italian word for green, and true to its billing, most of the Verdicchio on the export market was bottled and consumed while it was young and green. It was wine for the people—not wine for sophisticates.

Never was Verdicchio allowed to age.

The Garofoli family envisioned something else. Verdicchio, they realized, was a varietal of vast, untapped potential. Its fruit could ripen quickly and give rise to subtle, structured wines that could age beautifully in the barrel and the bottle. Verdicchio could be much more than its dated stereotype— so long as you treated it respectfully.

In pursuit of their goal, the Garofolis began fine-tuning their approach.

They modified their farming practices, pruning vineyards to reduce yields and selecting only the choicest clones. At the same time, they began to experiment with aging techniques.

In 1981, the family broke starkly with convention, becoming the first major Verdicchio producer to abandon the green, fish-shaped amphora in favor of a Bordeaux-style bottle—a new look for a wine that was not the same-old Verdicchio. In 1986, the Garofolis

released their first Verdicchio “classico,” a lovely demonstration of the grape’s great promise. But the bigger watershed came in 1991, when the family unveiled Podium, an old-vine Verdicchio that was striking from the get-go but all the more remarkable as it matured.

“This is a Verdicchio that can age 10, 12, 15 years or even more,” Garofoli says. “It demonstrates how flexibile and sophisticated the varietal really is. We think of it as something like the Italian Chablis.”

In the years since, the Garofolis’ influence has rippled across the Marche, part of a growing wave that has helped elevate the profile of the region’s signature grape. The results are further evident in the work of such producers as Umani Ronchi and Villa Bucci, whose beautiful releases are a celebration of the varietal’s diverse strengths.

Showcasing the bright, refreshing notes that have long made Verdicchio foodfriendly, they are also wines of elegant body and intriguing flavor that grow only more compelling over time.

“The truth is, Verdicchio can be many things,” Garofoli says. “It’s still a wonderful table wine, good for everyday drinking. But it’s a lot more than the wine you might think you know, poured from a bottle shaped like a fish.”

Opposite page, clockwise from top: The Marche region in eastern Italy has produced Verdicchio wine grapes for centuries; producers like Villa Bucci celebrate Verdicchio’s strengths, including an elegant body and intriguing flavor; the Garofolis of the Garofoli winery: Gianfranco, Carlo, Beatrice, Gianluca and Caterina; most of the Verdicchio on the market was bottled when the grape was young and green; Umani Ronchi’s CaSal di Serra pairs well with seafood; by pruning vineyards and reducing the number of grapes, vintners like the Garofolis can select the best of the harvest.

TASTING NOTES Garofoli 2016 Podium Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, $26 A lush, golden color, with honeyed notes that give way to refreshing hints of ripe stone fruit. It’s delicious with salmon and halibut, but also a worthy pairing with grilled pork or roast chicken.

2016 Umani Ronchi CaSal di Serra Verdicchio di Jesi Classico Superiore, $16 Medium-bodied, with a pleasing texture and sweet notes of cherry and nectarine. Try with fried calamari or garlicky shrimp.

Bucci 2016 Verdicchio Classico dei Castelli di Jesi, $23 A full-bodied wine with a straw-yellow hue and perky flavors of apples and bitter almond. Enjoy with a pasta or shellfish risotto.

2016 Montecappone, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore Ergo, $62 Smooth, delicate notes of almonds, peaches and apricots. Pair it with rich seafood such as salmon or halibut, but it also marries nicely with a roast pork loin.

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ROOM KEY

‘Charm City’ charmer

Baltimore’s coziest luxe hotel, The Ivy, part of the Relais & Châteaux “family,” feels homey in a way that home itself can’t quite match. By Rita Guarna

| JOHN CRAIG

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ell friends you’re spending a weekend in Baltimore and they may wonder why you’re visiting the poor cousin of “richer” New York, Philly or D.C. But this historic city is full of delights for the visitor.

And if you hang your hat at The Ivy Hotel, you’ll feel like you’re visiting wealthy kin of your own.

The only Relais & Châteaux hotel in Maryland, this restored 1890s red-brick brownstone stands proud in the historic Mount Vernon neighborhood and strikes the perfect balance when it comes to service: impeccable, yet discreet. Think of this as a relative’s country “house” in the city.

There is no check-in desk. Instead, a driver (yes, we were met and whisked to the hotel) drops you off at the entrance, where we were escorted through a small lower lobby into the elevator and up to the conservatory. There Simon, one of two concierges on call during our stay, greeted us and offered a glass of champagne and a tour of the property. (“Yes, please!”—on both counts.)

In the conservatory we were regaled with tales of the place. A beautifully restored piano, for example, belonged to the heirs of the original owners and is often used. From there, we ambled past the mansion bar, where guests are encouraged to pour their own classic cocktails (there are recipe books there too, should you need inspiration), then into the tea room, library and game room. The home—er, hotel—is full of antique furnishings, including an 1880s billiards table, Tiffany glass windows and vintage books in several nooks with oversize armchairs. A beautiful 1930s globe caught my attention, and it was only the promise of high tea that lured me away. Comfy velour couches, roaring fires and floor-to-ceiling

murals invited us to relax. And relax we did. Here it’s easy to revive the endangered art of conversation while munching on finger sandwiches and scones.

When I remarked to my companion that no one in the room appeared to be glued to his or her phone, one of the servers nearby smiled and said, “There’s no IT at high tea.” Indeed.

Sated, we climbed to the third floor to check out our suite—No. 9. The hotel offers 18 guest quarters: nine suites and nine rooms, ranging from 285 square feet to 985, each with a fireplace, an oversized bathroom and a one-of-a-kind armoire-cum-mini bar, designed by local art students. Our room featured a four-poster bed, a heated limestone floor in the bathroom, double vanities and a giant soaking tub. Everything in the mini bar, including local beers, wine and snacks (Old Bay chips, anyone?) is included in the hotel’s rate. So are afternoon tea, internet, on-demand movies, car service (within city limits) and breakfast.

It would have been easy to settle in and simply relax with a good book or two or three, but “Charm City” awaited. And did you know that in the mid19th century this—not Philadelphia, Boston or Chicago—was America’s second-largest city? Given the reputation of Baltimore (“Bawlmer,” if you speak the local dialect) as an important old-time port town, we decided to set sail on a boat tour courtesy of Art’s Cruises. Viewing the Inner Harbor from the waterside was fun, and we caught glimpses of Fort McHenry (where Francis Scott Key penned “The Star-Spangled Banner”), the U.S.S. Constellation and the somewhat cheesy characters aboard a ship flying pirate flags. We opted to skip the National

Aquarium, one of the largest in the U.S., and instead, once back on land, visited the Baltimore Museum of Art. It houses the world’s largest collection of Matisse works in a public museum and a contemporary sculpture garden amid three landscaped acres.

Back “home,” we joined a group at a champagne soiree, the champagne paired with its classic 19th century companion: oysters. Executive Chef Mark Levy, a Briton formerly at the helm of the five-star The Point in the Adirondacks, yearned to keep his oysters ice-cold and wanted them passed around like other hors d’oeuvres. One member of his creative team fashioned a leather and steel contraption, and the roaming oyster bar was born, with a young man, Devon, shucking while chatting up guests.

Speaking of food, Levy serves up a varied menu for guests and locals alike at Magdalena, the hotel’s 75-seat bistro. Here you’ll find something for everyone: mac-and-cheese fritters for the ironic highbrow, a saddle of Colorado lamb and a caviar service for the hungry masses. There’s a nod to local fare with oysters, crabs (of course), cod and rockfish. We sat outside in a beautiful backyard courtyard, but other options included the wine cellar (the restaurant has an extensive wine and whiskey list), the treasury in the home’s former vault and an upper area with small booths.

Unlike dinner, breakfast is a guests-only affair, and it’s grand. Choose a made-to-order omelet or more elaborate eggs Benedict, waffles or the signature lemon soufflé pancakes. (They’re to die for.) With full bellies and promises to return, we bade concierge James a fond farewell as he summoned our driver.

If only visiting real family could be like this.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Suite Seven at The Ivy Hotel includes mirrored closet doors, a living room, two fireplaces and a bathroom with dual vanities, soaking tub and separate shower; original skylights, carved wood wainscoting and stained glass windows highlight the building’s three-story grand staircase; choose any seat in the living room, library or conservatory for afternoon tea; local seafood is abundant at Magdalena, the hotel’s 75-seat restaurant; visitors can enjoy morning coffee and evening cocktails in the inviting courtyard; guests are given concierge services and a personal driver.

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MUSIC

A POP OF THEIR OWN

New music needed? These four artists are tricky to categorize by genre and they’re morphing pop music in unexpected but very welcome ways. By Harry Dowden

CAROLINE POLACHEK

Listeners may know her best as half of synth-pop duo Chairlift, by her former alias Ramona Lisa, or scribe for cuts from Beyoncé and Solange.

This fall, however, NYC’s Caroline Polachek will release her debut album under her given name, and the initial singles promise crystalline pop explorations that are both anthemic and introspective. Leading the charge is “Door,” a sleek showcase for Polachek’s melodic hookweaving and intricate vocal runs.

The album: Pang Go-to songs: “Door” and the balladic “Parachute” Deeper dives: Chairlift’s 2016 album Moth; guest vocals on Charli XCX’s “Tears”

KIEFER

Exploring the natural intersections between jazz and hip-hop, LA-based Kiefer Shackelford creates sun-dappled microcosms that showcase his production chops as much as his piano skills. Kiefer’s expressive compositions impress without ever failing to be catchy. You can hear the influence of jazz pianist greats alongside the bassy lineage of the late great J Dilla’s beats and the playful progressions of video game composers (is it strange that the Nintendo Wii Sports music comes to mind?) melded into a blend that’s Kiefer’s own. In an era where instrumentals can be a tough sell, Kiefer goes beyond the lo-fi beat cottage industry and shows off some truly 21st-century jazz—with riffs that will get stuck in your head.

The album: Superbloom Go-to song: Teaser single “10,000 Days” Deeper dives: “Orange Crayon” and “Cute,” the groovy centerpieces of this year’s Bridges EP

JAI PAUL

A quick recap: 2010’s “BTSTU” takes the world by storm followed by 2011’s “Jasmine,” and the two tracks seem poised to reshape pop in his image. A leak of new material comes out in 2013, but years pass with no tunes. Suddenly, when all hope seems lost in 2019, two new songs appear. Jai gives his blessing (and streaming rights) to the infamous leak, and just like that Jai Paul is blaring out of speakers once again. Sounding as if they were beamed through a radio from a cooler dimension, the funky R&B compositions are a logical continuation of the path “BTSTU” wrought but still sound way ahead of their time. Even if we only get a few songs every decade, they’ll soundtrack many summers.

The album: We can dream. For now, listen to Leak 04-13 (Bait Ones) guilt-free.

Go-to songs: “He,” which can only be described as an absolute bop, and quiet storm “Do You Love Her Now” Deeper dive: “Str8 Outta Mumbai”

(SANDY) ALEX G

Philly’s Alex Giannascoli has spent years churning out affecting singersongwriter gems: bedroom pop, slacker rock, ramshackle Americana and a lot in between. Known by his stage name (Sandy) Alex G, he isn’t afraid to pull from far and wide when it comes to his work, populating his songs with opentuned guitars and pitch-shifted vocals. He captured the hearts early on of DIY showgoers and Bandcamp devotees, with artists such as Frank Ocean and Oneohtrix Point Never catching on and collaborating. The first singles from his upcoming release indicate a synthesis of the many stylistic routes and analogdigital crossover of his catalog.

The album: House of Sugar Go-to songs: “Gretel” and the mournful yet rollicking “Hope” Deeper dives: “Bobby,” “Harvey,” bonus track “Sarah”

| JOHN CRAIG

WHEN YOU WISH…

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Songs “work” when they’re both relatable and aspirational. Love songs, to the listener, aren’t just about the love we have, but the love we wish we had (or had back). Music gives us space to entertain our loftiest dreams and ambitions. Here’s a mix of old and new that foregrounds those wishes and dreams.

“I Wish” by Hayley Kiyoko “I Wish It Would Rain” by The Temptations “Dreams” by Solange “Call It Dreaming” by Iron & Wine “In Dreams” by Roy Orbison

“Wishes” by Beach House “Dreamer” by Four Tet “I Wish” by Stevie Wonder “Daydreaming” by Radiohead “I Wished on the Moon” by Billie Holiday

BILLIE HOLIDAY

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9/27/19 1:53 PM

$250 OFF A $1,000 PURCHASE CODE: H19MAG250 Must present this card to receive credit. One gift card per customer. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offers. Not applicable to previous purchases, sale merchandise or special orders.

VALID NOW THRU 12/31/2019

CouponOutsert-JohnCraig_7x5_FW19_Final.indd 2

9/27/19 1:53 PM