Garys Fall/Winter 2019

GARYS F W 20 19 F ORU M / THE SU B STA N CE OF STYLE

FORUM/THE SUBSTANCE OF STYLE/FW 2019

Fall FEVER

FALL FEVER

THE HOTTEST COLD-WEATHER FASHION DWYANE WADE’S SLAM-DUNK STYLE

GARYSONLINE.COM

SUITE LIFE: HAUTE HOTELS RED WINES THAT WILL SURPRISE YOU

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S H O P FA S H I O N I S L A N D.C O M

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Discover

your best

life.

D I S C O V E R T H E F I N E S T R E TA I L , D I N I N G A N D E N T E R TA I N M E N T, I N A N U N M AT C H E D C O A S TA L S E T T I N G .

Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Nordstrom, Macy’s, AG, Alice + Olivia, Anthropologie & Co., Apple, Drybar, FIG & OLIVE, Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, GARYS, Hyde Park Jewelers, Lilly Pulitzer, Louis Vuitton, Nespresso, Peloton, Rebecca Taylor, RED O Mexican Cuisine by Rick Bayless, Restoration Hardware, Rolex, St. John, SUITSUPPLY, Tesla Motors, THE LOT, Tommy Bahama Home, True Food Kitchen, Urban Decay, Vince, Voluspa, Zadig & Voltaire.

Partial list.

Fashion Island © 2019 The Irvine Company LLC. All Rights Reserved. Fashion Island is a registered trademark of Irvine Management Company.

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CONTENTS

fall/ winter 2019

36 30

46

54 FEATURES

FASHION

DEPARTMENTS

26 ICON:

14 GET

6

DWYANE WADE

16 MUST-HAVES:

28 AUTO:

RAPID FIRE 30 TRAVEL:

HOW SUITE IT IS 54 ART:

SWINGING LONDON, UNCENSORED 56 WINE:

THE BOOT

CHILLING DETAILS 20 TWICE 36 FALL 46

AS NICE

FEVER

COLD FRONT

Welcome Letter 10 Ask Forum 12 Profile: How Zegna Does It

42 Made-to-Measure:

The Right Way, Not Right Away

58 Profile:

Style You Can Count On

62 Style

Guide:

64 Final

Stitch:

Pick Your Pants Tux Tips

RED REIGNS

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welcome

FALL FOR THE

SEASON’S BEST

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how an exceptional turtleneck paired with a sportcoat is a sophisticated option to the classic shirtand-tie, and how to make a denim jacket and jeans look smart and casual at the same time.

Having all the right pieces for fall opens your door to countless looks for any occasion. Turn to “Twice As Nice” on page 20 for ideas to go from a business trip to a weekend getaway by simply swapping a few key garments. Of course, our consultants are always ready to guide you through selecting premium suits, jackets, knitwear, pants, shoes and accessories (be sure to check out the season’s must-haves on pages 14 through 18) that match your signature style. We make looking good easy!

We hope you enjoy these and all the features in this issue of Garys magazine and that they inspire you to fall into fashion this season. Please visit us when you’re done reading; our team will be here, happy and ready to make you Follow us to look your best. See you soon! stay in-the-know

about events and special offers.

JOHN B R AEGER AND THE GAR Y S TEAM

GarysMensStore @garys_mensstore SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

W

hether you are a southern California native or are new to the area, you are seeing changes here like never before.

But one thing has remained constant for more than five decades: Garys has been part of the fabric of the West Coast since 1966. Sure, we have been here a long time, but we are never standing still.

From day one, our focus at Garys has been providing a comfortable, inviting atmosphere where you can find the finest clothing options—from formal and fitted to casual and relaxed—to satisfy your every sartorial need. That’s one of the reasons why Peter Millar, the contemporary designer known for refined casual style and luxury performance fabrics, selected us as the first West Coast specialty store to host one of its on-site shops this spring. We’re excited to offer you the brand’s fall collection of sweaters, sportcoats and more— everything you need for the office or a night out on the town.

We love springtime looks, but fall is our favorite time of year. Thanks to renowned brands like Canali and Ermenegildo Zegna, dressing for the season has never been better or more fun. Check out some of the outfits in “Fall Fever” on page 36 to see what we mean. For example, we show you

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GARYS

FASHION ISLAND, NEWPORT BEACH 949-759-1622 DEL MAR PLAZA, DEL MAR 858-794-0740 Editor in Chief RITA GUARNA Creative Director STEPHEN VITARBO Senior Editor DARIA MEOLI Senior Associate Editor DARIUS AMOS Lifestyle Editor HALEY LONGMAN Art Director VICTORIA BEALL Contributing Photographers MATT SAYERS, DANIEL SPRINGSTON Editor at Large and Founding Editor KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN Concept Director ANDREW MITCHELL

PUBLISHING STAFF Group Publisher SHAE MARCUS Director of Sales MONICA DELLI SANTI National Account Executive JESSICA SALERNO Advertising Services Director JACQUELYNN FISCHER Graphic Designer, Ad Services VIOLETA MULAJ Production Art Associate CHRIS FERRANTE Accounting AGNES ALVES, MEGAN FRANK

APPAREL FORUM

ANDRISEN MORTON Denver, CO GARYS Newport Beach, CA HUBERT WHITE Minneapolis, MN KILGORE TROUT Cleveland, OH LARRIMOR’S Pittsburgh, PA MALOUF’S Lubbock / Southlake, TX MARIOS Portland, OR / Seattle, WA MITCHELLS Westport, CT / Huntington, NY MITCHELLS/RICHARDS Greenwich, CT OAK HALL Memphis, TN RODES Louisville, KY RUBENSTEINS New Orleans, LA STANLEY KORSHAK Dallas, TX WILKES BASHFORD San Fran/Palo Alto, CA PUBLISHED BY WAINSCOT MEDIA Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN President & CEO MARK DOWDEN Senior Vice Presidents SHAE MARCUS, CARL OLSEN Vice Presidents NIGEL EDELSHAIN, THOMAS FLANNERY, RITA GUARNA GARYS is published by Wainscot Media, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656 in association with GARYS. Copyright © 2019 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved. Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, GARYS, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656. The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, GARYS Circulation Department, 1 Maynard Drive, Park Ridge, NJ 07656; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com. Printed in the U.S.A. Volume 22, Issue 2. ©2019

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If the car in your dreams is not the car in your garage, we should talk.

The Luxurious S-Class Sedan

FLETCHER JONES MOTORCARS THE NATION’S #1 MERCEDES-BENZ CENTER

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ASK FORUM

solving your fashion dilemmas

The heat in my office gets unbearable in winter: How do I simultaneously dress for cold weather and overheated offices?

It’s called layering, and it’s the smartest way to dress in winter. Rather than a bulky sweater, try one of our fine gauge merino turtlenecks or a cashmere crew, over which you can wear a beautiful unconstructed sportcoat. Or make that second layer a vest: From cable knits to lightweight quilted styles, we offer many fashion-forward options that are both comfortable and on trend.

Tip: Wear a top-quality performance tee under your first layer for extra comfort and temperature control; fabric technology has advanced tremendously in recent seasons so that a simple tee can keep you warmer in the cold and cooler in your overheated office.

I’ve been living in sneakers all summer, and I dread the thought of squeezing my feet into rigid dress shoes. Any fall footwear options that are both comfortable and stylish?

Yes! The footwear market feels your pain and is offering many variations of hybrid shoes that combine a beautiful soft leather upper with a comfort bottom. Soft leather or suede slip-ons and lace-ups are just as comfortable as canvas sneakers…and notably elevate your style.

Come in and check out our fabulous assortment of fall footwear.

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Why do I need to buy expensive underwear when it doesn’t show?

Let us count the ways: 1. A great fit. The right base layer makes everything you wear over it look better. Pant styles these days are slimmer, and your old bulky underwear could ruin your look. 2. For comfort. New luxury performance fabrics feel incredibly soft and breathable. 3. To save the planet. Many tech fabrics are sustainably sourced. 4. For easy care. Tech fabrics come out of the washer and dryer looking like new. 5. For their many amazing properties. The wicking, anti-microbial, quick-dry, odor-control and temperature-control of these undies make them worth it. 6. When was the last time you replaced the underwear in your drawer? If your boxers and briefs are old, frayed, stretched out and embarrassingly gray, it’s time! And 7.

Wearing the good stuff will make you look and feel younger and sexier. Need we say more?

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profile

how zegna

DOES IT

The century-old menswear brand prospers by exploring what’s new—and reworking what’s old.

By Karen Alberg Grossman

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What makes a family-owned and -operated clothing company become an international icon? Ask the professionals at Ermenegildo Zegna.

Their company has helped to set the standard of excellence for luxury menswear since 1910, when Ermenegildo Zegna bought his father’s woolen looms and began a clothing business. Always looking to the future, the firm, now in its fourth generation, is much more than elegant suits. It’s one of the planet’s largest fabric producers (with its own sheep farm in New South Wales, purchased in 2014); it’s active in promoting improvements in wool production; it’s a philanthropic titan (beginning with reforestation projects in the 1930s, before such work was fashionable, and now supporting the arts, environmental education and conservation efforts). The people at Zegna are textile innovators and fashion leaders. If you own a certain limited-edition Maserati, you will note that the leather, silk and wool herringbone interior is crafted of Zegna fabrics.

For fall ’19, Zegna’s textile technology expertise is in full view with entire new categories of men’s apparel. The AchillFarm suit, for example, is made entirely with wool remnants from Zegna’s Achill Farm, discarded during the process of suit making and then remixed and rewoven. (The facility was purchased as a model farm, largely for research and development purposes. Says Paolo Zegna, chairman of the business: “We want this farm to be transparent, to tell the complete story of a beautiful product.”) Zegna’s high-performance Packaway suit is amazing for wrinkle-free traveling, and its exclusive Techmerino Wash & Go collection can miraculously be machine-laundered. Talk about fabric innovation—Zegna’s recent launches

are truly transforming the menswear industry.

Fall ’19 is also a season when formal and casual categories seamlessly blend. Sportcoats have outerwear pockets; shirts become jackets; cargo pants are sartorially designed.

Even quilted puffer jackets are constructed in Zegna’s tailoring atelier, acquiring an elevated touch. Full trousers narrow toward elasticized bottoms, and knits are increasingly important. And for your feet, Zegna offers up bold-soled zippered boots or multi-material sneakers. It’s a season to have fun with fashion.

But beyond fabulous fashion, Zegna’s sustainability and recycling efforts deserve special mention. Under the hashtag #UseTheExisting, the fall ’19 collection is crafted with exclusive wool, cashmere and nylon fabrics created from existing sources via innovative processes. The result is luxurious fabrics that are recycled as well as recyclable. Zegna is also involved in restoring a rundown suburb of Milan. Its efforts will turn a wasteland into a hub for wellness and science, replete with green parks and new residential areas.

Says Zegna creative director Alessandro Sartori: “It is our duty as denizens of this world to live responsibly. I want to do it using the creative means I have at my disposal, which extend from fabric-making to tailoring to producing a fashion show.

Everything we do conveys our underlying concept: We do not need to create new from scratch; we can reuse and reinvent the existing, crafting inventive fabrics out of discarded ones, translating traditional techniques into innovative tailoring, turning an abandoned place into an area of creation.”

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footwear

get the

BOOT

Leather and suede.

Chestnut and chocolate.

Chelsea and chukka. We get such a kick out of these boots, you’ll want to take them all.

Clockwise from top: Chelsea boot by To Boot New York, leather wingtip boot and work boot by Allen Edmonds, black dress chukka boot and suede lace-up boot (center) by Gravati and desert boot by Alden.

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must-haves

chilling

DETAILS

Coats, jackets, vests: check! Now all you need are cold-weather accessories.

From top, brown leather and suede gloves by Peter Millar and dark brown leather gloves by Monti.

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must-haves From top, plaid scarves

by Johnstons of Elgin and navy scarf by Eton.

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clothes talk

TWICE AS NICE A few key pieces can offer endless options for looking sharp when you’re heading to the office, having drinks with friends or running weekend errands.

Photography by Dan Springston

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High Performance A navy suit in a performance fabric will keep you comfortable while looking professional. For double duty, style the jacket as a layering piece to create a more casual vibe.

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clothes talk

Mad about Plaid Think patterns are less versatile than solids? Think again.

You can mix and match this season’s coolest plaids into several looks.

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Made in the Suede Suede jackets work as outerwear when there’s a chill in the air or can be swapped in for a textured alternative to a suit and tie.

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clothes talk

Tight Knit Chunky cardigans are a go-to layering piece over a shirt and tie or a basic tee.

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man of style:

DWYANE WADE Recently retired basketball star Dwyane Wade takes bold fashion shots—and usually scores. By Darius Amos Dwyane Wade played above the rim for 16 NBA seasons, but that’s all over now. The 2019 season was the hoopster’s last, and he had the clarity and class to go out while still a dynamo. What decidedly isn’t over is Wade’s era as a much-watched public figure, active in supporting worthy causes and often capturing cameras’ eyes because of his keen sense of style.

Life hasn’t been all fame and glory. Wade grew up in a rough neighborhood on Chicago’s South Side, often surrounded by violence and crime. His parents split up when he was just 4 months old, and his mother was in and out of jail for drug violations. But throughout those troubling times, Wade turned to basketball as a distraction. He gravitated toward the Windy City’s pro team, the Bulls, and a player named Jordan. But he really fell in love with the sport while watching his older stepbrother play on his high school team. By the time it was Wade’s turn to play high school hoops, coaches and scouts already saw his passion and recognized his potential.

“You definitely start thinking about the journey and the beginning and how it all started,” Wade told the Los Angeles Times on the eve of his retirement.

Wade went on to play at Marquette University, earning first-team All-America honors during his junior season in 2003. That year, he carried the team to the Conference USA crown and its first Final Four appearance in 26 years. He was selected fifth overall by the Miami Heat in the 2003 NBA draft and was named to the All-Rookie Team in 2004.

Draft night was memorable for another reason: Wade’s oversized navy windowpane suit that, by today’s standards, had too many buttons and too much flowy fabric.

“It’s funny when you look back at suits—nobody was doing tight stuff,” Wade said in an interview with the sports culture website Bleacher Report. “The hip-hop culture was big then. For the time, I was fresh. It wasn’t as classic as I wanted it to be.”

What did turn out to be classic was Wade’s teaming with Shaquille O’Neal, the league’s most dominant player, whom Miami acquired before the 2004–05 season. “I’m here to support you,” O’Neal said to him in their first conversation, as Wade later told Sports Illustrated. “I’m here to make you one of the best players in the world.”

Maybe Shaq knew Wade was already on that path. He finished his career at age 37 with three championship rings (including one with O’Neal), 13 All-Star selections, a scoring title, a Finals MVP trophy, two Olympic medals (gold in 2008) and a host of other accolades and hardware. One of his most defining moments happened off the court in 2010, when Wade, by then the face of the Heat franchise, checked his own ego and stardom at the door (as well as probably millions of dollars) and helped Miami attract an even bigger star, LeBron James.

“How many guys are willing to do that?” former Heat coach Erik Spoelstra said at the time. “He has incredible emotional intelligence.”

Spoelstra forgot to mention style IQ as well. Wade matured after his draft-day blunder and has been building a fashion legacy ever since.

After he signed his first contract and took care of his family, his first big-money purchase was a suit; following his first endorsement deal, he bought a custom suit. In 2006 Wade hired a stylist—who’s with him to this day—to help polish his image and build a new wardrobe filled with such brands as Valentino, Burberry and Tom Ford. Today he has a line of ties, bow ties and pocket squares with The Tie Bar, and he’s often seen wearing a Dolce & Gabbana blazer for a clean, tailored look or donning a Dsquared leather moto for something a little edgier. This past year, he hosted the seventh annual fashion show fundraiser, “A Night on the RunWade,” in Miami.

Though he and his wife, actress Gabrielle Union, continue to wow on the red carpet—he was a slam dunk at a recent Metropolitan Museum of Art after-party in a slick black suit, T-shirt and sneakers—Wade isn’t afraid to take fashion risks (and the jabs that come with them). In fact, Union has joined former NBA player Kobe Bryant and others in a viral video roasting Wade for some of his outfits.

A leader on the court and in front of the lens, Wade, whose “roller-coaster journey” will be documented in a memoir due this fall, also quietly gives back to the community. To see how, check out another viral video produced by Budweiser to honor the man of the hour.

The four-minute set features five guests who share the unique ways Wade touched their lives. Among the speakers: a student whose family couldn’t afford to send her to college, a sister of a young shooting victim and Wade’s mother. Be sure you have a tissue or two handy.

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auto

rapid FIRE

Aston Martin puts a charge in the luxury market with its first electric super sedan. By Darius Amos

Already one of the coolest action heroes in Hollywood history, James Bond might be adding badass eco-warrior to his calling card—thanks to his new environment-friendly car. British manufacturer Aston Martin’s latest production vehicle, the limited edition Rapide E, is fully electric and rumored to be 007’s ride in the next Bond film due to hit screens in 2020. Talk about an electrifying flick.

Spoiler alert: The Rapide E will challenge the iconic Tesla Model S for supremacy in the electric super sedan class. The crowded field— which includes entries from luxury makers like Porsche and Jaguar— has been dominated by Tesla, but Aston Martin wants to rain on the parade.

The Rapide E is a reimagined version of Aston Martin’s old V-12 gas guzzlers. This reincarnation boasts an aggressive profile similar to its siblings, the Superleggera and the DB11, and is outfitted with two rear-mounted motors that run on a 65.0-kWh battery pack. That package can reach 100 percent power in three hours, the result of 800volt fast-charging technology. What does all that translate to in terms of performance? Aston Martin says the Rapide E’s motors produce 602 horsepower and a 0-60 time of around four seconds. (Of note,

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engineers say the Rapide E will perform the same regardless of battery power, unlike other electric vehicles.) On a full charge, the battery has a range of about 200 miles, or a one-way road trip from New York to Baltimore. If you’re making that trip, switch the car into touring mode (one of three) for a smoother, relaxing ride.

There’s even more to love inside the cabin, which Aston Martin execs say separates their brand from all others. The four-door Rapide E, which will hover around $300,000, has all the amenities associated with the Aston Martin name. The black leather-wrapped driver’s dashboard features gauge clusters that do more than reveal speed and gear: There are indicators for “green” measurables like energy consumption and power levels as well. But you can find out if your car needs charging even if you’re away from it—a smartphone app will give you remote access to all of your Rapide E’s vitals. The interior also has automatic climate control, LED lighting, premium sound and navigation with a 6.5-inch screen infotainment system, plush leather seats with electric blue trim and much more. Of course, James Bond’s movie version will come with weaponry—but this time around, he’ll be fighting the bad guys in a zero-emissions vehicle.

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HOW SUITE IT IS

WHO COULD RESIST THESE IMPECCABLE SPACES IN LUXE HOTELS AROUND THE WORLD, DESIGNED

BY FASHION’S GREATEST NAMES? High fashion meets luxe lodging? When you think about it, it makes perfect sense. The two worlds are similarly driven by an adventurous spirit and a quest for the unexplored; perhaps it was inevitable that they’d link up and share each other’s dazzle. Thus top fashion brands are creating hotels— or transforming hotel suites—that bring the aesthetics of international travel up a notch big enough to make even jaded jaws drop. For an experience “memorable” doesn’t even quite describe, plan a stay at one of these suites designed by fashion industry leaders.

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CHRISTIAN DIOR St. Regis, New York Parisian fashion house Christian Dior and the famed St. Regis Hotels have a storied history—they first collaborated on St. Regis Paris’ original Dior Suite in 1991 (while the brand’s founder died in 1957, the Dior style and sensibility live on). And in 2011 they worked their magic together again, this time in New York, on an exquisite one-bedroom, one-and-a-half-bathroom guest suite sprawling across 1,700 square feet. The decadent space, which also includes a living room and a dining room, pays homage to the French designer’s Parisian ateliers and features many of Dior’s classic touches: There are Lady Dior cannage patterns on the Louis XVI-style furniture, accent details of the brand’s iconic bows, Dior’s fashion sketches on the walls and a plethora of the house’s signature shade, “whispering gray,” throughout.

The Dior Suite starts at $10,500 a night, but remember that includes butler service, and you’re just a few blocks from the Christian Dior boutique on 57th Street.

New This Season: There’s nothing quite like Christmas in New York City. Reserve your stay at the St. Regis New York for three or more nights between Dec. 20 and Dec. 29, 2019, and you’ll get one complimentary evening.

The Dior Suite’s sophisticated décor is a sea of gray, purple and beige, inspired by the designer’s Paris ateliers. The stunning views of Central Park and Fifth Avenue, though, remind guests they’re in the heart of Manhattan.

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coat check

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG Claridge’s, London The glamorous, century-old Claridge’s hotel has been the gold standard of luxury in London for fashion royalty, like Audrey Hepburn and Victoria Beckham, and literal royalty (from the UK and elsewhere). And Claridge’s became even more iconic in 2011 when long-time guest Diane von Furstenberg designed a series of rooms, a junior suite and the two-bedroom Grand Piano Suite at the unique boutique hotel. The latter is decked out with bold, contemporary patterns most often seen on DVF’s famous wrap dresses—here they’re scattered across rugs, window treatments, chairs and accent pillows—while photographs taken by the fashion icon herself on her trips to Europe, Africa and Asia adorn the neutral walls. It stays true to its name with a grand piano, plus a black-leather-topped private bar and marble fireplace, rounding out the spacious living area. For upwards of $7,400 per night, lucky guests will also get 24-hour personal butler service and unmatched views of Mayfair, London’s most exclusive neighborhood.

Diane von Furstenberg has called Claridge’s “the most glamorous hotel in the world,” and she designed its third floor Grand Piano Suite with nothing but glamour in mind. Her iconic and vibrant prints come to life in the room with bespoke fabrics and furniture.

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New This Season: Make your trip to London a family affair with Claridge’s “Happy Families” package. This includes a two-bedroom suite, traditional English breakfast for up to four people, complimentary kids’ meals, treats and games for the little ones, a champagne toast and more, all for about $1,300 per night. This offer is valid for all stays up until May 17, 2020.

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GIORGIO ARMANI Armani Hotel Dubai, Dubai Why design just a suite when you can design an entire hotel?

That’s what Giorgio Armani did when he added “hotelier” to his résumé in 2010 with the opening of Armani Hotel Dubai, the 2016 winner of the coveted World Luxury Hotel Awards. The curated yet minimalistic space, which also boasts a branded spa, restaurants and an Armani gift shop, features many of the Italian designer’s signature details: Eramosa marble floors, zebrawood panels in the guest corridors and custom-made Armani Casa furnishings in the suites. The hotel’s location is larger than life too; Armani Hotel Dubai is located in the world’s tallest building, Burj Khalifa, within walking distance of The Dubai Mall, the world’s second largest shopping mall (based on total area, not leasable space), and overlooks the iconic Dubai Fountain and Dubai Opera House. Pricing for the decked-out two-bedroom Armani Dubai Suite ranges from $6,500 to $10,200 a night.

New This Season: If you book a stay for your family at Armani Hotel Dubai for two or four nights before Dec. 25, 2019, you’ll get daily buffet breakfast and tickets to Reel Cinemas or the Dubai Ice Rink for each guest as part of the resort’s “family stay” package.

If the simple, muted palette and textured fabrics weren’t already indicative of the Armani aesthetic, it’s all in the details; Armani monogramming is featured on almost everything in the guest rooms, from towels to sugar cubes.

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coat check

RALPH LAUREN Round Hill, Montego Bay, Jamaica Ralph Lauren’s favorite place in the world is undoubtedly Jamaica.

“It’s very serene, a different world, far away from everything,” the fashion designer has said. He and his wife own two homes there, give money to various local causes and draw on Montego Bay as the inspiration for much of what he sends down the runway. It was fitting, then, that Ralph Lauren design 27 villas and 36 oceanfront rooms in 2004 at Round Hill, a picturesque escape sprawling 110 private acres that just so happens to be a vacation spot for the likes of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle (and, decades ago, John and Jackie Kennedy). The guest rooms are certainly A-list-worthy, representative of the clean, all-American vibe for which Lauren is known—featuring crisp white linens, stone floors, wooden four-poster beds and louvered windows that open up to tile porches overlooking the ocean. Rates at this Caribbean escape start at $439 per night in the off season.

Ralph Lauren used a cool color palette of blue and white, often his gotos, when designing the luxury villas and guest suites at Round Hill. Each room has oceanfront views of the bay and reef and upholstered wooden furniture from the designer’s home collection for ultimate comfort.

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New This Season: There’s no getaway more romantic than one to Round Hill. Couples who book a minimum of a three-night stay by Oct. 31, 2019 will receive daily breakfast and afternoon tea, one couple’s massage at the in-house spa, private round-trip airport transfer, daily shuttles to Montego Bay and Tryall Golf Glub and more.

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VERA WANG Halekulani Hotel, Honolulu, Hawaii When Vera Wang designed the 2,135-square-foot suite at Halekulani in Hawaii in 2005, every detail was carefully chosen.

There’s the wooden writing desk from the 19th century Qing dynasty that’s facing China; the suite’s menu stocked with Wang’s favorite snacks; the dining tables set with Wedgwood china, crystal and silver from her home collection; the DVD selection comprising her favorite flicks. As for the décor itself? It certainly exudes Wang’s simple yet romantic style, with a neutral color palette accented by her favored lavender hue and unique furnishings from Hawaii and Asia.

A semi-private elevator opens to this second-floor Vera Wang Suite at Halekulani, which features a statue of Quan Yin, a female Buddhist diety, that guests see upon arrival. The suite has sweeping views of the Diamond Head volcano, Hawaii’s most famous landmark.

Alas, this ultimate in Hawaiian hotel luxury doesn’t come cheap. The Vera Wang Suite costs guests upwards of $6,000 per night—including personal butler service, airport transportation and champagne and tea, of course.

Perfect for newlyweds or honeymooners, the Vera Wang Suite at Haleku-

New This Season: Guests who book an oceanview room directly lani is as elegant as it is romantic. Embroidered pillows on the king-sized through Halekulani will receive a complimentary upgrade to an ocean- bed resemble the details in Wang’s gowns, while an oversized mirror front room. If you’re staying a minimum of three nights, you could above the bed reflects the stunning Hawaiian sunrise. also opt for the “suite life” package, which offers a special dinner for two at five-star restaurant La Mer, daily breakfast and round trip SUV travel to the airport, all included in the pricing.

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fall

FEVER You know the symptoms: You yearn to put away the polos and put on the hottest coldweather styles.

Photography by Dan Springston

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This page: Jacket and jeans by Isaia, knit sweater by Eleventy, shirt

by Giannetto Men and pocket square by Eton.

Opposite: Suit, shirt and tie by Ermenegildo Zegna.

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This page: Suit, tie and pocket square by Canali and shirt by Isaia.

Opposite: Jacket by Peter Millar, turtleneck by Ermenegildo Zegna and hat by Biltmore.

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This page: Denim jacket, shirt and jeans by BLDWN. Opposite: Suit and turtleneck by Ermenegildo Zegna.

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The right way, not RIGHT AWAY “Customizing” a garment in a hurry online doesn’t make it custom-made for you. Try true made-to-measure instead. By Darius Amos Seeing is believing, as they say—but not when you’re purchasing a made-to-measure suit. Any garment can look good on a computer screen, and it may be stunning hanging in your closet. But will it feel great when you try it on?

In the world of custom suiting, your sense of touch will respond acutely to the differences between a garment handsewn by a tailor and a piece manufactured quickly by an internet company. Of course, some online businesses create excellent products using your measurements—which you record and supply yourself—and a dozen or so personalized elements. But a few clicks of a mouse can’t guarantee the use of impeccable fabrics, a perfect fit and a selection of details that runs the gamut. These are things, however, a Garys customer has come to expect.

For decades, our team of made-to-measure experts has been customizing the finest garments precisely to your specifications and personal taste, from size and fit right down to jacket lapel style and thread color—all the sartorial details that matter.

Looking and feeling your best is the name of the game, and great fabric will always drape better than an inferior product. Bonus: A well-made fabric is softer and stronger and will outlast a stiffer and cheaper cloth (which many online retailers use), making a suit custom-made by us the wiser investment. Our made-to-measure program uses fabrics from the world’s finest mills such as Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna, which source the best raw materials like wool from Australia and New Zealand. The bottom line? You’ll get a suit created from the highest-quality fabric that’ll make you look

even more handsome. Another bonus: A tailor-made suit will come with an ample fabric reserve (in case you have to make anything bigger down the road), while a garment made online will cut costs and minimize the use of material when possible.

We also ensure proper fit. Yes, an online suit maker creates jackets, pants and vests based on the exact measurements you provide, and your order may fit like a glove—that is, until you start moving. Our made-to-measure experts consider your daily activities so that your pieces continue to look good when you’re doing everyday things. Sitting at a conference table or reaching for a book on the top shelf? Our tailors guarantee you don’t have to worry about a collar gap or your jacket bunching at the neck.

You can also distinguish one of our made-to-measure suits from an online customized garment when you feel the inside of the jacket. For the lining, we suggest high-end silk or cotton versus inexpensive options like polyester blends, which can overheat the wearer. The interlining (the material between the suit’s inner and outermost fabrics) should be sewn in place, rather than glued or fused. An easy way to determine the quality is to pinch the upper layer of the fabric: A superior garment will be soft and flexible; an inexpensive suit will feel stiff and thick.

Our style pros and tailors will take nearly two dozen of your measurements and personalized options (handmade buttonholes or pocket flaps, anyone?) to create a piece that looks and feels just right. So log off your computer and give made-to-measure a try. We promise you’ll never look back.

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COLD FRONT The season’s outerwear forecast calls for a mix of textures and weights. Prepare to keep warm, dry and looking fly, no matter what Mother Nature has planned.

Photography by Dan Springston

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BOMBS AWAY Leather bomber

by Corneliani, knit cardigan by Faherty Brand, button-front shirt by Eton and jeans by AG.

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WALK IN THE PARKA Parka by Corneliani, CPO shirt

by Faherty Brand and trousers

by Patrick Assaraf.

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SAILOR’S DELIGHT Peacoat by Samuelsohn, quarter-zip sweater by Peter Millar, tie and shirt by Eton, trousers

by Maurizio Baldassari.

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PUFF’D UP Orange puffer

by Herno, hooded sweater

by Faherty Brand and jeans

by AG.

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RAMBLIN’ MAN Navy travel coat

by Corneliani, shirt by Peter Millar and trousers

by Maurizio Baldassari.

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OVER THE TOP Topcoat and trousers by Corneliani, sweater by Patrick Assaraf.

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CLOSE TO THE VEST Vest, sweater and trousers

by Eleventy.

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lens flair

swinging london,

UNCENSORED Photographer Frank Habicht captured the ironies, surprises and joys of Britain’s capital in the 1960s, when it rocked the world. By Donna Rolando

What a contrast! London, a city steeped in bowler-hatted tradition with a history dating back to Roman times, was shedding its buttoned-up reputation to embrace the spirit of freedom in a revolution that spanned all aspects of life—love, fashion, music and culture.

In the ’60s, as the usually staid capital of the British Commonwealth mixed with pop culture in a way sure to raise the Queen’s eyebrows, the whole world was watching. Millions were ready to groove along with London’s mod crowd as an advance guard of worldwide hippiedom. And there, capturing this profound social change with unbridled passion, was German photographer Frank Habicht.

Today he has traded an international career for life in New Zealand, celebrating the landscape and community around the Bay of Islands. But when the ’60s revolution was in full swing, Habicht was London-based, with an audience throughout Europe in publications such as Esquire and The Guardian, and

was working as a stills photographer for film directors including Roman Polanski.

For an artist devoted to illustrating life’s contrasts, the Swinging ’60s provided endless opportunity to explore, as Habicht put it, “what hides behind the human soul.” Some of his most celebrated photos captured pop idols and film stars, such as rock musicians Mick Jagger and The Rolling Stones, actress Vanessa Redgrave and actors Christopher Lee and Marty Feldman. But Habicht turned the lens with equal devotion to the girl next door, in the latest groovy, psychedelic fashions such as miniskirts and go-go boots, or in nothing at all.

It was realism, uncensored, by a camera genius highlighting a great city’s diversity, spanning, as one writer attested, from “protests to private parties, markets to mansions, film sets to festivals.” He used black-andwhite film as though fearful that color might compromise authenticity (despite the color-besotted fashions of Carnaby Street),

and he produced a treasure trove of artistry worthy of many exhibits and photo books. The latest such volume, entitled As It Was: Frank Habicht’s Sixties, is available internationally at bookstores and art galleries and on Amazon.

Released at a time when Britain is again in the throes of social change, As It Was contains never-before-published images that show the same candidness that marks his famous work.

Critics prize Habicht for poising himself at the center of a social storm. It seems the photographer wouldn’t have it any other way.

He admits that life’s complexities astound him, and that his photos can blur the lines of reality and fantasy, “capturing togetherness, despair, rebellion, isolation, joy and sadness, surrounded by beauty and drama.” Some say digging into life’s ironies is how Habicht reflected the restless heart of a city so masterfully.

Whether you’re a hippie in spirit or just an appreciator of ’60s fashion, As It Was is a coffee-table addition that’s unlikely to gather dust.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: “Marriage a la Mode” (top) shows a ’60s remake of wedding tradition, which Habicht instinctively captures in his truer-than-life style; youth and maturity, pop culture and traditional workplace garb come together as part of everyday life; floppy hats and starburst eye makeup (left) reflect a generation’s independent spirit.

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wine

red

REIGNS

Ready to venture into something new in red wine?

Let’s make it something you’ll enjoy. By Josh Sens Stop us if you’ve had this experience before: You’re browsing in a wine shop or flipping through a wine list, and suddenly it hits you. You’re dizzied by the options.

The shelves are jammed with bottles. The list goes on for pages. Making a selection is a lot more complicated than simply choosing white or red.

“There are literally thousands of grape varietals out there, with names that start with every letter of the alphabet,” says Rick Arline, sommelier and wine director of Auburn, a celebrated fine dining restaurant in Los Angeles. “Even if you are pretty well versed in wine, it can be enough to make your head spin.”

One way to proceed is to stick with what you know, the tried-and-true varietals you’ve long enjoyed. Or you could embrace the spirit of adventure and opt for a wine you’ve never had before.

While beloved grapes, such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir, all have distinctive traits, they also share a kinship with other, less familiar varietals.

Up for something new? We’ve composed a list of tempting alternatives, relying on Arline as our guide.

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If you like

If you like

If you like

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

MERLOT

PINOT NOIR

Try . . .

Try . . .

Try . . .

ZINFANDEL: Planted in roughly 10 percent of California vineyards, Zinfandel has been around the Golden State so long it’s had a chance to become misunderstood. “Some people think of it as a jammy, gloopy wine for barbecues,” Arline says. “But it can be very elegant and nuanced, with the structure and extraction that people like in cabernet sauvignon, but also leaner and fresher.”

Joseph Swan Bastoni Zinfandel, 2013. $29.99 SYRAH: A wonderfully versatile varietal, Syrah, Arline says, can be by turns powerful and savory, or round and fruit-driven. “It’s a little different every time,” he says. “But it’s always unmistakably Syrah.”

Central Coast Group Project White Hawk Vineyard Syrah, 2013. $75 GARNACHA: Blended with Tempranillo, the dominant grape, this Rioja features complex notes of ripe plum.

It’s dark and moody, and “is for people who love cab and want those qualities without paying extra for the new oak,” says Arline.

López de Heredia Rioja Reserva, 2006. $40

SANGIOVESE: Produced in the vineyards outside the Tuscan town of Montalcino, some 50 miles south of Florence, Brunello di Montalcino is made with Sangiovese grapes and is one of Italy’s most prized wines. Soft and rich, it has a supple beauty that Arline says is reminiscent of the best merlots.

Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino Annata, 2010. $125 CARIGNAN: Fruit-forward with hints of spice, this food-friendly varietal finds many expressions but none better than the wines of the Corbières appellation in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France.

Clos de l’Anhel Les Terrassettes, 2016. $17.99 TEMPRANILLO: Smooth and fruit-forward with a structure that can range from mediumto-full-bodied, Tempranillo has a quiet elegance, like merlot, that can take on great complexity as it ages.

Alión Ribera del Duero, 2013. $102

DOLCETTO D’ALBA: Dolcetto means “little sweet one” in Italian. That doesn’t mean it’s cloying, just often low in acid, light and bright, and wonderfully versatile with food.

Vietti Dolcetto d’Alba Tre Vigne, 2017. $19.99 BARBERA D’ALBA: Deep in color, high in acid and low in tannins, this Italian varietal is often more full-bodied than pinot noir, but makes a graceful dinnertime companion.

Borgogno Barbera d’Alba, 2017. $24 GAMAY: A close cousin to pinot noir, gamay grows next door to Burgundy in France’s Beaujolais region. The wines it yields are light-bodied and fruity, often with a refreshing tartness. They can be especially delicious when slightly chilled.

Domaine Marcel Lapierre ‘Raisins Gaulois’ Vin de France, 2017. $17.99

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profiles

style you can

COUNT ON

Educated dressers are discovering that the Eleventy collection has their number.

By Karen Alberg Grossman

Eleventy founder and men’s creative director Marco Baldassari always dreamed of designing a collection that would reflect his personal philosophy of life: casual, comfortable, distinctive and based on understatement rather than flash.

He fell in love with Italian craftsmanship early in his career when working for Cerruti and, with women’s creative director Paolo Zuntini, developed a powerhouse fashion brand based in Milan.

After only four years in North America, the Eleventy collection has managed to capture the essence of contemporary style.

“When you look good, you feel good,” says Baldassari, “and your quality of life improves.”

Part of the secret is the brand’s “made in Italy” production—not in a giant factory, but outsourced to 94 small enterprises comprised of highly specialized artisans, each an expert in his or her field.

What’s more, the company’s recent mission—“responsible luxu-

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ry”—is more than just a buzzword. “We’re using natural dyes rather than chemicals, and we’re heavily investing in research to reduce our carbon footprint,” says Baldassari.

Geoff Schneiderman, manager of U.S. sales, elaborates: “For the past few seasons, we’re increasingly focused on sustainability and protecting the environment. For example, we use mostly Giza cotton from Egypt that has very long fibers so it doesn’t pill, doesn’t shrink, is incredibly soft and lasts through 1,000 washes. We’re also using recycled plastics in both product and packaging to protect the oceans.

“We’ve been at lots of events lately,” Schneiderman continues, “and it seems that customers, especially young people, are increasingly interested in how things are made and why there’s value in the product.

For them, it’s not just about buying clothes but also about learning how they’re produced, how they’re worn, how the new styles are different from what’s in their closets. The sustainability factor is, of course, a plus—but the product has got to be right.”

Has Eleventy got it right? Patrons’ verdict seems to be affirmative—even when shopping comes with a challenge. “For most of our customers, the goal now is learning a new way to dress,” says Schneiderman. “The biggest misconception about ‘elevated casual’ is that all guys have to do is wear the suit and dress shirt without the tie. In fact, the key component is a finely finished knitwear piece—it could be a cotton T-shirt or polo or a lightweight merino crew, but always a luxury fabric with subtle detailing and trim. Wear that as the foundation piece with drawstring-waist pants or slim-fit five-pockets, an unstructured sportcoat (our laser-cut blazer in solids or patterns is a winning example!) and cool footwear, and you’re good to go anywhere.”

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style guide

pick your

PANTS

For the best look, select the right style for your body type and personality.

By Karen Alberg Grossman What makes a great-fitting pant? Experts say it’s a matter of proportion: the relationship of rise to seat to leg opening. Because every brand is different and there’s no universal fit, don’t shop by waist and inseam alone; try on a few different brands and models to see which best complements your body type—and, of course, your personal style.

In general, pants for fall ’19 are still slim but not tight, a bit looser on top than last year’s but still narrow on the bottom.

Expect to see some athleisure influences (drawstring waists, elasticized bottoms) and rolled bottoms for those who dare. Cropped styles are trending, but more so for spring ’20, worn with sandals, sneakers (sans socks) or bare feet.

As a general rule, the bottom of the pant should graze the top of the shoe, covering the very top of the heel. As one Italian pants maker told us, “Americans still wear their pants much too long, whereas Italians wear them much too short.”

Printed bottoms, classic menswear patterns (herringbone, plaids, stripes) and novelties are trending among fashion types.

For those who want to be noticed, go for it!

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SLIM-FIT FIVE-POCKET PANTS, especially in to-

day’s performance fabrics with stretch, are modern, comfortable and a good fit for almost all body types. They look great worn with everything from tees and turtlenecks to shirts, ties and sportcoats. This is the most popular pant model these days.

FLAT-FRONT PANTS with on-seam side

pockets work best for trim physiques and athletic builds.

Unless it’s a stretch fabric, hefty guys will find this model a tight squeeze.

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CARGO POCKETS

are back in certain circles. A strictly casual look, these are not great with tailored sportcoats but pair perfectly with a crewneck or moto.

MODIFIED SINGLE-PLEAT

dress and casual pants have recently been reintroduced in the menswear market. The new pleat is shorter, subtler and more like a dart than a pleat. It updates the old pleated models and works for all body types. Since it doesn’t add much volume, it’s slimming and flattering. That said, most American men will wait awhile before going back to pleats of any kind.

TODAY’S MODERN PANT is

proportioned so that it’s somewhat looser in the thigh and narrower toward the bottom.

Sometimes executed in knit jersey fabrics with drawstring waists, these pants look great on everyone and work especially well for guys who need extra room at the waistline. Comfort is key!

HIGH-RISE, VOLUMINOUS PANTS are getting much

press on the runways. This exaggerated look is Japanese-inspired, very contemporary and only works on gorgeous young models. Still, never say never: This could end up becoming the next big thing in streetwear.

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final stitch

SHIRT COLLAR

The wing—a stand-up collar with downward points—is the most formal style, while the mandarin or band collar offers a more contemporary look. Prefer to wear a necktie instead of a bow tie? The wide spread collar is a great option.

tux

TIPS

SHIRT FRONT

Every man can look incredible in a tuxedo—as long as it’s the right one.

By Darius Amos Most of us aren’t walking the red carpet or accepting an Academy Award. But dressing to the nines for a wedding or gala is something we’ve all done—and it’s likely you’ll attend another formal event where looking sharp is part of the agenda. Of course, you don’t get to wear a tuxedo every day (not even George Clooney does that), so when you invest in the ultimate piece of formal wear, its style and fit should be nothing shy of impeccable. Consider these things before you suit up for something special:

A shirt front with no placket and concealed buttons is clean and contemporary, while a pleated front worn with studs adds interest. For an elegant look, try a smooth bib-front shirt, perhaps in a pique fabric, with room for studs.

JACKET LAPEL

You know the choices: peak, shawl and notch. Wear a silk-faced peak lapel for highly formal occasions and the rounded shawl style when you want to soften your look. While versatile, a notch lapel is the least formal for a tuxedo.

JACKET SHOULDER

Don’t overlook this detail. The padding of your tux jacket should not extend beyond the tip of your shoulders (no shoulder divot). If it does, your jacket is too big.

JACKET CUT

While you can’t go wrong with a traditional-cut jacket, a modern fit, which is trimmer through the chest and shoulder, offers fashion-forward styling and a flattering silhouette—and it’s still appropriate for any black-tie event.

SLEEVE LENGTH

When paired with a properly fitted shirt, the jacket sleeve should show a half-inch of the shirt cuff—just enough for others to see your cufflinks.

JACKET LENGTH

We’ll work with you if you’re an NBA center, but for the regular guy, the piece should cover your backside. Another guide: With your arms at your side, the jacket should end between your thumb’s knuckle and base.

PANT LEG WIDTH

Find a cut that flatters your waist, thighs and calves. Pay attention to how the fabric drapes—anything too tight will create wrinkles, while too much material will be baggy.

PANT LEG LENGTH

Pants should have half or no break. See your tailor immediately if they are bunching at your ankles (or if your ankles are showing). The half break is the standard, showing a slight dent where the hem rests on the top of the shoe.

SHOES

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Patent loafers and oxfords, traditionally worn with a tux, are best suited for the most formal events. Both styles in suede or polished leather will give you a low-key look.

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