Coleson: Fall/Winter 2016

coleson

coleson fall/winter 2016

f a l l FA S H I O N S si c i l i a n si p s

your ULTIMATE STYLE GUIDE

p r i m e va l z a n z i b a r the art of charcuterie m i c h a e l c a in e

Zanzibar: Primeval Paradise Sipping Sicilian Cutting-edge charcuterie michael caine: man of style

the good life

f a l l / w i n t e r 2 0 16

smart sartorial choices will make you look and feel your best COL.fw16.coverFIN.indd 1

9/26/16 12:07 PM

Wainscot_Canali ADV_FW16.indd 2-3 CANALI SPREAD.indd 2

9/22/16 12:07 PM

CANALI SPREAD.indd 3

13/07/16 16:01 9/22/16 12:07 PM

contents f/w 2016

departments Memo | 4 What’s fresh for fall at Coleson.

The coleson Guide | 7 Luxury footwear…the lure of leather…handcrafted jewelry… and more.

Essentials | 14 Update your wardrobe with some of our favorite pieces for fall and winter.

THE LEADING MAN

michael caine | 22 In his screen demeanor and the way he wears a suit, this cool Cockney is the epitome of smooth.

grape | 44 After a ho-hum era, vintners on historic Sicily are winning new respect.

features road warrior | 24 The Mercedes-AMG GT S has serious rock star presence that transcends its elegant design.

Destination: Zanzibar | 34 Come to this East African island for its pristine beaches—and stay to delight all five senses.

the art of charcuterie | 40 For enthusiasts of this newly resurgent cooking style the meat is cured, but not the addiction.

Tailor-made | 46 Meet the old-world tailors behind Coleson’s expert fittings.

Grooming | 48 Rotating blades? Forget it. A wet shave—the way your grandfather did it—is a cut above the rest.

The good life

Smart sartorial choices will make you look and feel your best—no matter what you’re doing.

p.

26

| coleson

On the cover:

2 COL.fw16.toc.indd 2

Rebecca wears a grey and black windowpane sweater and grey pants, both by Eileen Fisher. Mitch wears a charcoal grey striped suit by Hickey Freeman, blue and white check shirt by Eton, red and white striped tie

by Altea, pocket square by Edward Armah and belt by Allen Edmonds. This page, Rebecca wears a grey wool dress and a grey fur and wool wrap, both by Magaschoni.

9/26/16 12:08 PM

F16_Laf148_Coleson_MagAd_FNL.indd 1 LAFAYETTE RIGHT.indd 1

8/15/16 3:38 PM 9/22/16 11:51 AM

memo

coleson 36 and 40 north queen street lancaster, pennsylvania 17603 717.394.8842 www.colesonclothiers.com Store Hours tuesday to friday: 9:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. saturday: 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.

Editor Mark Dowden

fresh for fall F

sneak peek

step lively! p. 7

all is here, and we are looking forward to fun, fashion, family and friends!

With the changing of the season, we have outfitted and merchandised our store with fresh fall essentials that we are excited to share with you. Flannel 5-pockets, cashmere cable-knit sweaters, printed silk and cashmere scarves, weatherproof suede boots and bold iconic prints are a few of our favorites.

Men and women shop differently; in fact, women shop, men buy. Gentlemen, take advantage of our newly renovated custom lounge. Whether off the rack or full Bespoke, we guarantee you will enjoy the process (and our fully stocked bar). Ladies, take pleasure in the social side of shopping with our Coleson pop-up parties this fall. More details will be forthcoming, but you will not want to miss them!

We are finalizing event schedules, getting client feedback and watching trends to bring our clients the best hand-selected collections ever. We have packed schedules in New York to work on editing the Resort and Pre-Spring 2017 (already!) collections. Both of us feel great about the continued modernization of fashion with diverse influences.

To all of our clients and friends, we thank you for your continued business and support. We look forward to seeing you in the store!

| coleson

Shane & Kaitlin Behmer

Art Director stephen M. vitarbo Executive Editor rita guarna Managing Editor Nicole lupo Associate Editor Darius Amos Art Assistant Yvonne Marki Contributing Editors Michael Ardizzone, Liz Donovan, Timothy kelley, Everett Potter, josh sens Contributing Photographer daniel springston

Publishing staff Publisher Shae Marcus

Associate Publisher amy B. weiss National Brand Manager Monica Delli Santi

Director of Production and Circulation Christine Hamel Advertising Services Manager jacquelynn fischer Senior Art Director, Agency Services Kijoo Kim Production/Art Assistant Alanna Giannantonio Accounting agnes alves, megan frank

Published by Chairman Carroll V. Dowden President Mark Dowden Senior Vice Presidents shae marcus, carl olsen Vice Presidents nigel edelshain, Rita Guarna, christine hamel Coleson magazine is published by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale,NJ 07645, in association with Coleson. Copyright Š 2016 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

Editorial Contributions: Write to Editor, Coleson, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com.

The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions.

Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Coleson, Circulation Department, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.573.5541; email christine.hamel@wainscotmedia.com.

Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

4 COL.fw16.memo.indd 4

9/26/16 2:36 PM

No matter the destination, prepared is always a proper look.

A W 16 . E X P L O R E I N S T Y L E .

SWEDISH PREMIUM SHIRTS. FOR EVERY SITUATION.

Ad_eton_Wainscott.indd 1 ETON RIGHT.indd 1

2016-09-07 16:35 9/22/16 11:51 AM

MEYER LEFT.indd 2

9/22/16 1:48 PM

the

coleson guide The Best of All Worlds

A STEP ABOVE

Bill White’s father wasn’t happy about his son’s interest in fashion. So he gave him a gold ring emblazoned with the family crest—a rooster, which faced west instead of east to let young Bill know he was heading in the wrong direction. As it turned out, his father didn’t know best. Bill went on to found the Scarpe di Bianco brand of luxury footwear. (Scarpe means “shoes” in Italian; Bianco is Italian for “white,” the family name).

Each Scarpe di Bianco shoe is 100 percent handmade—even the soles—by a talented team of artisans in a fourth-generation workshop near Naples. Because of their meticulous craftsmanship, no more than 25 pairs of shoes are made each day. Bill believes the elder White approves. “I think he’s come around and likes what I do,” Bill has said. “He wears my shoes, so that’s an endorsement right there.”

Good things happen when East meets West. One of the very best of those is Lafayette 148, a line of women’s professional wear that’s been a good thing for 20 years running. Founded in 1996 by Shun Yen Siu, Deirdre Quinn and Ida Siu, Lafayette 148 combines the energy of its New York headquarters with its Chinese background, resulting in collections for sophisticated, confident women. Their European fabrics are expertly crafted, leading to Lafayette 148’s reputation for exceptional fit and quality. Asian, Indian and African art influence their designs.

Yet, with all those international flavors, the bottom line is still this: Their modern, minimal look means business.

The Thinking Person’s Umbrella

|

COL.fw16.guide.indd 7

fall/winter 2016

Umbrellas are one of those things in life that we don’t think about until we need it. Or it breaks or rips at just the wrong time. That’s exactly when we appreciate a good one. So before you get caught in the next downpour, be proactive and get a Davek umbrella. You’ll be prepared for anything, and you won’t have to cuss at your low-rent model when it gets blown inside-out.

Based in New York City, the Davek folks claim to have “the strongest, most high-quality umbrellas on the market.” Even engineers and architects have hailed the brand’s umbrella design. And what’s even more radical, one of Davek’s core beliefs is “it’s better to buy one high-quality product that will last for many years, than an endless stream of replacements.”

That’s unheard of these days, unthinkable! Then again, Davek wants us to think about umbrellas before we actually need one. By then, it’s too late.

7

9/23/16 3:34 PM

the coleson guide The A–Z List Coleson is proud to feature more than 60 designer brands!

See if you don’t find our favorites in the list below. Then stop by the store for a shopping experience you’ll love.

AG Jeans Alberto Aldo Martins Alex Woo Allen Edmonds Anatomie Autumn Cashmere Baccarat Barbour Bruno Magli Canali Chan Luu Circle of Gentlemen Citizens of Humanity Coppley Culturata David Donahue D. Exterior Donald J Pliner DVF Edward Armah Eileen Fisher Elliott Lauren Eton Fabiana Filippi Fratelli Rossetti Gimo’s Gran Sasso Handstitch Hickey Freeman Hook & Albert Ingram Italo Ferretti Kendra Scott Kinross Cashmere Kobi Halperin Konstantino Lafayette 148 LBM1911 Ledbury Left Coast Tee Lloyd Luigi Bianchi Mantova Magaschoni Magnanni Maliparmi Mason’s Marc Cain Maurizio Baldassari Measure Up Meyer MMX MZ Wallace New England Shirt Co. Oxxford

| coleson

fabiana filippi

8

COL.fw16.guide.indd 8

Pantherella Peserico Peter Millar Raffi Remy Robert Jensen Samuelsohn Sanyo Sartore Saxx Underwear SnoSkins Stenströms Strong Suit Suzi Roher Tory Burch Trafalgar Truefitt & Hill W. Kleinberg Yoga Jeans

Ask Mr. Etiquette

Shane Behmer explains how to sail through life without giving offense.

A lot of invitations these days say “cocktail attire.” What the heck does that mean?

—Lost in Lancaster Your host is saying, “Get out of the business suit, lighten up and let’s have some fun.” That could mean no tie. It’s your option. A sportcoat, however, is a must—paired with an exciting shirt and a great pocket square. Depending on the occasion, the party location and what your spouse is wearing, jeans can be appropriate. Trousers will certainly give you a dressier look. Naturally, accessories are key—shoes should be less serious, the belt should work with the shoes. Last but not least, make a splash with your socks. Colorful socks show a little more sartorial character when you’re kicking back with a cocktail.

A Taste of Naples

If you’re a connoisseur of pizza—and who isn’t?—you know that it originated in Naples, Italy. Sure, you can get a pizza anywhere, but for true Neapolitanstyle pizza (purists, take note), check out the newly opened and renovated Luca. Taylor Mason, who owns the restaurant with his wife, Leeann, describes the menu—which includes handmade pastas, antipasto, roasted meats, seafood and lots more—as “rustic, ingredient-driven Italian cuisine.”

Their overall goal is to create an atmosphere where food, drink and family are celebrated and enjoyed. With a wood-burning hearth and handmade Neapolitan oven to complement their passion—a love for “the old country”—they offer authentic pizza, the way it was conceived back in Naples.

Luca, 436 W. James St., Lancaster, 717.553.5770; lucalancaster.com

The lure of leather

Some styles never go out of fashion. Consider the 40-year history of the leather jackets by the Italian maker known as Gimo’s.

Renzo Girardin founded Gimo’s in 1968 as a family-operated atelier specializing in leather garments of the highest quality. Based north of Venice in San Martino di Lupari, Gimo’s made its mark on the Italian and European fashion scene by combining high-quality raw materials (leathers, shearlings and fabrics) with contemporary cuts.

The result: leather garments that have satisfied the most demanding and diverse clientele.

All the while, Gimo’s has remained faithful to traditional Italian methods of producing leather goods. But from the very start, the label also has been propelled by (and helped define) fashion.

Each season, Gimo’s designers produce dynamic collections for men and women in the market for something stylish and refined, yet easy to wear. And let’s face it: Who doesn’t look cool in a leather jacket? Stop by Coleson for this fallweather wardrobe must.

9/26/16 2:37 PM

Celebrating 100 sartorial years.

Handmade in Chicago since 1916.

W W W. OX X F O R D C LOT H E S . C O M

AUG2016.indd 1 OXXFORD RIGHT.indd 1

8/15/16 4:24 PM 9/26/16 1:54 PM

the coleson guide Hitting a High Marc

Unless you’re a frequent traveler to Germany, you’ve likely never heard of Bodelshausen (it’s roughly between Stuttgart and the Swiss border) in the southern part of the country. But if you haven’t already heard about Marc Cain, you will soon. Founded in 1973, they’re an internationally successful premium women’s clothing line headquartered in Bodelshausen— and now they’re expanding and catching on with a larger audience. Marc Cain garments are made with the finest Italian fabrics in their high-technology German production center. And that same commitment to accuracy drives their innovative thinking and high standards in design, quality and material. So if you weren’t familiar with Marc Cain’s collections before, now you are. To see what we’re talking about, just ask the closest salesperson at Coleson.

A Store Legend Retires In July, salesman J.R. Johnson decided it was time to hang up his jacket and tie. People would regularly ask J.R., “How long have you been here?” He would look at his watch and quip, “Since about 9:30 this morning.” The real answer is, since the Ford administration. J.R. began selling clothes on Queen Street in 1976. K.C. and The Sunshine Band’s “(Shake, Shake, Shake) Shake Your Booty” played on the radio. Bell-bottoms, Western-pocketed shirts and plaid were the mode du jour.

Through every trend, J.R. kept his customers looking classic and appropriate. He could be counted on in a bind, for everything from an attorney needing a pair of shoes for court “in 15 minutes” to knotting the groom’s tie en route to the ceremony. J.R. reveled in second- and third-generation business, fitting the sons and grandsons of longtime customers for prom or a job interview.

First with TMB for 37 years, then in his final three at Coleson, J.R. was the embodiment of what Coleson continues to be: More than just a place to buy clothes, it’s where experience and relationships come first. Pairing ties over a cup of coffee, catching some golf on TV. And there was always a joke to hear. Some involved paper, scissors and a nunnery.

And with his usual parting words, “Thank you, I’ll be here all week. And don’t forget to tip your server,” J.R. signs off.

A Passion for Fashion Chan Luu was a child in South Vietnam gathering seashells and making them into jewelry. From that youthful desire, and years later, a formal education as a fashion designer, she has created a jewelry and accessories company lauded for its signature style of handcrafted originality coupled with an organic look and feel. Now based in Los Angeles, Chan combs different cultures for interesting elements to incorporate into her creations. She believes that the authenticity of her designs can only be conveyed by having skilled artisans make each of her pieces by hand. A long time ago, she made a promise to herself and her customers that every collection under her name would be completely handcrafted… with the same passion and care as a child making shell jewelry for her friends.

Survive a long flight

Flying from New York to Boston? No sweat. But sitting in a cramped airline seat for hours on end as you hurtle across the globe? That’s a journey you might lose sleep over. Make surviving a long flight the least of your travel concerns with these tips: n Book the right seat. Size matters—as in your height and bladder. A window seat will give you incredible views and a place to rest your head, but you’ll have to climb over others each time nature calls.

Score a bit more legroom and an easier path to the restroom with an aisle seat, but that too comes at a cost. Expect sleep interruptions from passengers in your row and those roaming the aisle. n Dress for comfort. Sure, you want to look polished, but park your tailored trousers and choose something with a more relaxed fit. Because feet tend to swell, wear slip-ons or shoes with loose laces and material that easily expands.

Stash extra socks or a light jacket in your carry-on in case the temperature takes a tumble. n Bring your own entertainment. If the in-flight flick is a bust, pass the time with a novel or your mobile devices.

Make sure smartphones and tablets are fully charged, as decent Wi-Fi and power outlets aren’t standard on all planes. But remember to pull away from the electronics to hydrate. And be sure to stand up and stretch; you want to keep your blood flowing. n Pack essentials. We recommend a neck pillow, headphones, lip balm, toothbrush, snacks and gum. And moisturizer will help you avoid feeling like a reptile.

To Market, To Market

Searching for regional foods like Pennsylvania Dutch sausage, scrapple, headcheese, preserves and the like? Or do you want to grab a cup of coffee and socialize with friends? Either way, you’re in luck—head to the Lancaster Central Market, the country’s oldest farmer’s market and meeting place. It’s in Penn Square at a location that’s been a market for more than 275 years, now in a building that’s a mere 120 years old. The only question is whether it’s a market where people gather to socialize or a gathering place where people shop for fresh food. If you’re from out of town, put it on your list of things to do after you shop at Coleson. If you’re a local, we’ll see you there.

23 N. Market St., Lancaster, 717.735.6890; centralmarketlancaster.com

COL.fw16.guide.indd 10

9/26/16 12:09 PM

ELLIOT LAUREN RIGHT.indd 1

9/23/16 2:32 PM

PERSERICO LEFT.indd 2

9/22/16 1:48 PM

Selling the EXTRAORDINARY…

Manheim Township, Lancaster, PA | $1,595,000

Bent Creek Country Club, Lititz, PA | $1,250,000

Millersville, PA | $799,900

Conestoga, PA | $1,075,000

Bent Creek Country Club, Lititz, PA | $1,125,000

Lusk & Associates Anne M. Lusk 100 FOXSHIRE DRIVE 717.291.9101

|

|

LANCASTER, PA 17601

WWW.ANNELUSK.COM

Sotheby’s International Realty and the Sotheby’s International Realty logo are registered (or unregistered) service marks used with permission. Sotheby’s International Realty Affiliates LLC fully supports the principles of the Fair Housing Act and the Equal Opportunity Act. Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated.

LUSK RIGHT.indd 1

9/23/16 4:33 PM

essentials for men

guy things

Want to take your wardrobe to the next level? Then be sure that these staples and accessories are in your closet.

Quarter-zip sweaters

by Peter Millar.

Red and blue check shirt by Ingram, turquoise plaid shirt by Eton and ties by Gitman Bros.

Merino wool socks

by Pantherella.

| coleson

Blue button-up sweater

by Maurizio Baldassari.

14 COL.fw16.essentials.indd 14

9/23/16 3:36 PM

FABER CASTELL RIGHT.indd 1

9/22/16 12:01 PM

essentials for men

get your kicks

It’s a thrill to find shoes that look great and feel good. That’s why we’ve rounded up the best new footwear of the season.

Blue double monk-strap shoe by Magnanni.

Brown oxford by Bruno Magli.

Blue oxford by Lloyd.

Brown suede shoe by Aquatalia.

Brown suede chukka boot by Aquatalia.

| coleson

Tan single monk-strap shoe by Magnanni.

16 COL.fw16.essentials.indd 16

9/22/16 3:33 PM

HAIR AT DFB RIGHT.indd 1

9/22/16 11:51 AM

essentials for women

5 simple pieces Having these must-haves on hand will make dressing this season a breeze.

Grey-toned camouflage raincoat by Anatomie.

Cropped turtleneck sweater by Lafayette 148.

Brown wrap bracelet by Maliparmi and bow necklace by Chan Luu.

| coleson

Tan handbag by MZ Wallace.

18

COL.fw16.essentials.indd 18

9/26/16 12:09 PM

Our goal is to help you pursue yours.

It’s that simple.

Your goals are what really matter. That’s why we’ll take the time to understand what’s most important to you: your family, your work, your hopes and dreams. Then we can help you get ready for the future with a financial strategy that’s just for you.

Groff & Associates Matthew T. Groff Senior Vice President - Wealth Management Senior Financial Advisor 717.975.4649

Merrill Lynch

Brina McCarthy Financial Advisor 717.975.4651

www.fa.ml.com/ groffandassociates

214 Senate Ave, 5th Fl Camp Hill, PA 17011 717.975.4649

Life’s better when we’re connected® Merrill Lynch Wealth Management makes available products and services offered by Merrill Lynch, Pierce, Fenner & Smith Incorporated, a registered broker-dealer and Member SIPC, and other subsidiaries of Bank of America Corporation.

Investment products: Are Not FDIC Insured Are Not Bank Guaranteed May Lose Value © 2016 Bank of America Corporation. All rights reserved.

MERRILL LYNCH RIGHT.indd 1

ARVMSMBT | MLWM-102-AD | 470949PM-1215 | 12/2015

9/22/16 11:51 AM

gift ideas

it’s the thought...

Lafco New York candle in Seville Spice.

| coleson

…that counts. These giftables will ensure you’ll be invited back.

20

COL.fw16.essentials.indd 20

Déclaration by Cartier and Uomo Ermenegildo Zegna.

Brown pencil gift set by Graf von Faber-Castell.

9/23/16 3:37 PM

717.564.3039 HARRISBURG, PA

www.DeimlerFamilyConstruction.com DELIVERING EXCEPTIONAL KITCHEN AND BATHROOM DESIGNS, AS WELL AS ROOM ADDITIONS, OUTDOOR RENOVATIONS AND BASEMENT REMODELING SERVICES.

DIEMER CONSTRUCTION RIGHT.indd 1

9/26/16 10:05 AM

| Coleson 22 COL.fw16.leadman.indd 22

9/22/16 3:37 PM

the leading man

Cool Cockney In his screen demeanor and the way he wears a suit, British actor Michael Caine is the epitome of smooth. By Timothy Kelley

W

File in 1965 and womanizing Cockney chauffeur Alfie in ’66. In 1969’s The Italian Job, a garage door memorably slides open to reveal superthief Caine in a dove grey, three-button sharkskin suit. And in Get Carter (1971) the title-role gangster sports a single-breasted, two-button, three-piece suit of blue Dormeuil tonik mohair.

Fittingly, for years Caine’s personal tailor was the late Doug Hayward (reputedly the model for Alfie’s character), a fellow workingclasser whose unacceptable accent had kept him off Savile Row. Hayward won renown in the Carnaby Street era, shocking the Establishment with the notion that machine-sewn buttonholes might be cricket after all, and he married classic English suit design with an Italian touch.

Of course, no mere clotheshorse wins Oscar nominations in each of the five decades starting in the ’60s (a distinction Caine shares only with Jack Nicholson), or holds one’s own (as he did in 1972’s Sleuth) with Olivier. But for half a century we’ve watched what this cool customer wore. And he’s worn very well indeed.

Clockwise from top left: Film icon Michael Caine portrays the title character in 2009’s action-thriller Harry Brown.

The Oscar winner strolls with a hand in the pocket of his suit. Looking dapper as a magician in Now You See Me. A Rolex on his wrist, Caine wraps an arm around co-star Giovanna Ralli on the Spanish set of 1968’s Deadfall.

fall/winter 2016

oody Allen’s no fool. When in 1986’s Hannah and Her Sisters he cast British actor Michael Caine as a lovestruck middle-aged neurotic stumbling into an affair, he was having a bit of fun. Fact is, moviegoers know Sir Michael isn’t the stumbling type (though the role won him an Oscar). He’s a striding definition of suave.

Caine “has been personifying British cool since the Swinging Sixties,” says CNN. Indeed, queen and country boast no classier screen hero. But Caine’s class isn’t upper—despite his knighthood, conferred in 2000. He was born Maurice Micklewhite in 1933 a few blocks from the Thames, and his accent remains less Oxbridge than London Bridge.

“When I became a success I sort of shoved it down their throat and continued to talk the way I did,” he’s explained. “I wanted to say to young people, ‘You can do it; it doesn’t matter how you speak.’ ” But it does matter how you look. Caine has put his six-foot frame and handsome, heavylidded puss to splendid sartorial use ever since he portrayed a crook-turned-spy in The Ipcress

| 23 COL.fw16.leadman.indd 23

9/22/16 3:37 PM

road warrior

The new Mercedes-AMG GT S has serious rock star presence that transcends its elegant design. It was literally handcrafted by racers to own the road.

If you’ve a need for speed, this svelte sports coupe effortlessly scoots its way to a top speed of 192 mph. Comfortably. But more than that, it’s fully equipped with racinginspired controls, and designed to perform exactly as a supercar should.

The AMG GT S boasts a 503-horsepower, 4.0-liter biturbo V8 engine and a seven-speed dual-clutch automatic transmission. Its massive torque reaches its 479 lb-ft peak at just 1,750 rpm and holds it all the way to 4,750 rpm, letting you go from zero to 60 in a scorching 3.7 seconds.

“Dial in” the car’s performance character with the twist of a knob on the console. Choose from four preset modes—comfort, sport, sport+ and race—plus an individual mode that you can configure yourself.

LED headlamps with stylized “eyebrows” as daytime running lamps, side lights and indicators—as well as three separate high-beam reflectors—give the GT S its distinctive look.

Some 260 grill pins, capped in chrome and individually sized and spaced by the car’s designer, add an air of elegance to the exterior.

| Coleson

The weight distribution of 47 to 53 percent between the front and rear axle, coupled with the car’s low center of gravity, translates to extremely agile handling and high cornering speeds.

24 COL.fw16.auto2.indd 24

9/22/16 3:38 PM

The body of the GT S is almost entirely composed of aluminum (more than 97 percent), and its spaceframe weighs just 514 pounds—a class benchmark. Among the non-aluminum components: a radiator support made of lightweight magnesium.

Inside, drivers will find deeply contoured leather seats, a 10-speaker Burmester surround sound system and a pair of high-resolution screens displaying entertainment, navigation, audio and other features.

Standard are high-performance tires staggered in both width and diameter (19 inches in the front, 20 in the rear) for maximum power delivery and super-sharp steering response.

Starting Price:

$131,200

A leather-wrapped, multifunction steering wheel offers easy access to the vehicle functions you use most often. Note the racing-inspired side grips.

|

Fully variable exhaust flaps let you vary the engine sound depending on the preset mode you select—comfort, sport, sport+ and race.

fall/winter 2016

The enormous 15.4-inch front discs are grasped by powerful six-piston fixed calipers finished with eyepopping red paint and the AMG logo.

25 COL.fw16.auto2.indd 25

9/22/16 3:38 PM

| coleson 26 COL.fw16.fashion.indd 26

9/23/16 3:38 PM

the good life Smart sartorial choices will make you look and feel your best—no matter what you’re doing.

Photography by Daniel Springston

Shot on location at The Farm at Eagle’s Ridge

fall/winter 2016

From left, burgundy fox and cashmere shrug by Magaschoni, printed jumpsuit by Maliparmi; navy windowpane suit by Samuelsohn, white shirt

by Eton, blue tie by Altea and pocket square by Edward Armah.

| 27 COL.fw16.fashion.indd 27

9/23/16 3:38 PM

| coleson

This page from left, plaid sportcoat by Maurizio Baldassari, white check shirt by Eton, blue striped tie by Stenstrรถms, pocket square by Gitman Bros., light brown pants by Maurizio Baldassari; navy turtleneck top by D. Exterior and grey and blue printed pants by Peserico. Opposite, blue sportcoat by Canali, light blue check shirt by Ledbury, green striped tie by Robert Jensen, pocket square by Edward Armah, brown leather belt by W. Kleinberg and grey pants by Riviera.

28 COL.fw16.fashion.indd 28

9/26/16 12:10 PM

fall/winter 2016

| 29 COL.fw16.fashion.indd 29

9/22/16 3:41 PM

| coleson 30 COL.fw16.fashion.indd 30

9/22/16 3:42 PM

This page, gold pleated skirt

by Coleson Collection and black quarter-sleeve top by Elliott Lauren. Opposite from left, navy button-up sweater

by Maurizio Baldassari, blue shirt by Peter Millar, burgundy striped tie by Peter Millar, burgundy pants by Meyer; grey, green and cream wrap by Peserico, striped shirt by Elliott Lauren and jeans by AG Jeans.

fall/winter 2016

| 31 COL.fw16.fashion.indd 31

9/23/16 3:38 PM

| coleson 32 COL.fw16.fashion.indd 32

9/26/16 12:10 PM

fall/winter 2016

This page, black coat by Gimo’s, burgundy sweater by Peter Millar Collection, grey T-shirt by Left Coast Tee, red polka-dot scarf by Edward Armah, dark blue jeans by Peter Millar Collection and brown leather travel bag by Hook & Albert. Opposite from left, beige sweater by Eileen Fisher, brown jeans by Yoga Jeans, beige plaid scarf by Mémoire Imprimée; denim shirt by Peter Millar and brown corduroy pants by Meyer.

| 33 COL.fw16.fashion.indd 33

9/26/16 12:10 PM

destination:

zanzibar

Come to this East African island for its pristine beaches—and stay to delight all five senses. By Everett Potter

Y

| Coleson

ou’d have to go to the other end of the alphabet—to Atlantis—to find a place name as evocative as Zanzibar. The magical word hints of exotic sights and sounds, evoking the intrepid traders, explorers and adventurers of bygone days. And unlike Atlantis, Zanzibar is perfectly real.

Geographically, it’s a coral archipelago of 50-plus islands about 23 miles off the mainland of the East African country of Tanzania. (And just to keep travelers on their toes, the Z-word is also sometimes used for the largest of the islands, 50-mile-long Unguja.)

On my visit, I was like most Western tourists: fresh off a two-week safari in the Serengeti and ready for a few beach days before going home. Zanzibar’s fabled beaches were described by 19th-century British explorer Sir Richard Burton a “cocoa-fringed shore of purest white, and the sea blue as a slab of lapis lazuli.” He’d see the same thing today.

Unguja is easily reached—it’s just a 20-minute flight from Tanzania’s largest city, Dar es Salaam. The island’s northern and eastern shores, lapping the longest stretch of soft sands, are lined with resorts. The eastern shore is where the

34 COL.fw16.travel2.indd 34

9/22/16 3:43 PM

Rocky points dot Zanzibar’s sandy beaches. The island is an idyllic, exotic destination for travelers yearning for sand, sun and culture.

fall/winter 2016

| 35 COL.fw16.travel2.indd 35

9/22/16 3:43 PM

| Coleson

luxury set settles in. There’s the Park Hyatt Zanzibar, the luxurious Hideaway of Nungwi Resort & Spa and the Hakuna Majiwe Lodge, which actually takes the thatched roof vernacular architecture to another level with its 20 cabanas. I stayed at the Royal Zanzibar Beach Resort, which could patent its five-star Zanzibar experience: infinity pool, private beach, lush gardens, four-poster beds, teak furniture and multiple restaurants, including cliff-perched Samaki.

But don’t be like travelers who, weary from safari and sleeping in tents, simply stay put in one of these resorts, venturing only from room to beach to water to restaurant. On the main island alone, there’s simply too much else to see.

That’s where you’ll find the remarkable Stone Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a labyrinth city of alleyways and historic architecture. Everywhere in the alleys of this beautiful, hypnotic and slightly shambolic town I saw evidence of Zanzibar’s checkered past; the place was prominent in the ivory trade and the slave trade. Over time, the islands became a source for some of the finest spices in the world.

Your hotel can arrange a guide to steer you through the maze of the city, which is reminiscent of the medina of Marrakech, a jumble of antique and souvenir shops, cafés and remarkable architecture. Keep your eyes open for the famous carved wooden doors, many covered in pointed brass studs—the studs were to keep elephants from casually barging in. Now they look like museum objects. The doors on Baghani Street are particularly stunning.

Zanzibar is known as a spice island and indeed, the air in Stone Town is fulsome with the perfume of cloves and nutmeg. The fragrances grew even more intense when we reached the Darajani bazaar, where vendors had piled high the island’s bounty: dodo mangoes and passionfruit, along with grapefruit, jackfruit and baobab seeds. The sea was the star in the market hall, which dates from 1904. Here were the fruits of the Indian Ocean, from parrotfish to octopus and triggerfish.

As you wander through Stone Town, you’ll see 19th-century mansions that have been restored and turned into smart cafés, shops and boutique hotels. Of particular note is the House of Wonders, or Beit-alAjaib, which was built as a ceremonial palace in 1883 and is now a museum of local life. (At the entrance, look for two 16th-century Portuguese bronze cannons; in the inner courtyard there’s a mtepe, a traditional Swahili boat.) From the wharves at Stone Town, you can watch the fishing dhows with triangular sails set off, a centuries-old design for traders plying the Arabian Gulf.

As for those beaches, most resorts will feature a beach outside your door. But if you want to be more This page, from top: a red colobus monkey, indigenous to Zanzibar but endangered after years of habitat destruction; a child frolicking with a flock of seagulls on a pristine white-sand Zanzibar beach; snorkeling in the crystal-blue waters. Opposite: Michanwi Pingwe beach’s The Rock restaurant at high tide.

36 COL.fw16.travel2.indd 36

9/22/16 3:44 PM

fall/winter 2016

| 37 COL.fw16.travel2.indd 37

9/22/16 3:44 PM

woodbury mens shop | Coleson

38 COL.fw16.travel2.indd 38

9/22/16 3:45 PM

|

This page, from top: A vendor sells fresh produce, handbags and hats outside one of the elaborately carved wooden doors in Stone Town, home to the bustling and aromatic Darajani bazaar. Fishermen show off their catches. Opposite: A local man in indigenous dress gazes out at the vast ocean.

fall/winter 2016

venturesome, head to Nungwi, Matemwe, Jambiani or Pongwe, which are all amazing. When the heat gets to you, seek out a vendor for a local concoction of sugar cane juice, ginger and lime.

On the drive to the beach, keep your eyes peeled for the red colobus monkey, indigenous to Unguja and unfortunately endangered. Its black face with a crown of white hair is unmistakable.

Do head to Michanwi Pingwe beach, if for no other reason than to have lunch at The Rock, which, true to its name, sits squarely on a rock just offshore. It looks like Hollywood’s version of a beach shack. If the tide is low, you can walk to it—providing you brought beach shoes to protect your feet from the coral. When the waters return, there is boat service. With seafood freshly caught from the surrounding waters—lobster, octopus, prawns and squid—and the thatched roof offering escape from the midday sun, it’s a brilliant and romantic place to unwind.

Diving and snorkeling are fantastic around much of the island, and a bevy of tour operators offers day trips. I happen to like the professionalism of a company called Safari Blue. It gets you to the coral reefs on a classic sailing dhow, with lunch at its restaurant on Kwale Island. The snorkeling was on par with any I’ve done, including in the Red Sea, with anemone gardens and fan corals, wave after wave of angelfish as well as Hawksbill turtles. We snorkeled on two different reefs, spotted dolphins during our sail and arrived back onshore blissful.

I also enjoyed a tour of Zanzibar’s spice plantations—such a tour can easily be booked through your hotel. It was a delightful morning on a lush plantation with a little learning on how to grow nutmeg and cardamom and cloves.

While dinner at your resort is the default setting on Zanzibar, take one night to go into Stone Town, have a sundowner at The Tea House restaurant at the Emerson Spice hotel and then stroll through the evening market, where stall after stall offers grilled and often spice-laden seafood.

There’s not a lot of nightlife in this Muslim city, but there is the rather tired Mercury’s on the waterfront, where you can hear cover versions of songs by Queen’s Freddie Mercury, who was born here. If “We Are the Champions” and “Killer Queen” aren’t your thing, catch some traditional Zanzibarian music at the Mtoni Palace Ruins, former home to 19th-century sultans.

The classical music of the island is taarab, a mix of music and poetry, and if you’ve got good ears you’ll hear musical strains from India, the Arab world and Africa.

It’s a melting pot, and that just may be the essence of the remarkable island called Zanzibar.

39 COL.fw16.travel2.indd 39

9/23/16 3:39 PM

the art of

charcuterie

For enthusiasts of this newly resurgent cooking style the meat is cured, but not the addiction. By Liz Donovan

A

| Coleson

t long last, being a carnivore is “in” again. For years, many of us have yielded the high ground to our vegetarian friends, remarking to one another only sotto voce that they’re missing a lot of good eats. But now the ancient European tradition of charcuterie—finely honed techniques for preparing cooked or processed meats such as sausages and patés—is making a big comeback among discerning chefs right here in the U.S.A. With a respect for nature and an abhorrence of waste, they’re making culinary history. So hold your heads high, meat eaters! And meet three top practitioners of this tasty art.

40 COL.fw16.gourmet.indd 40

9/22/16 4:06 PM

Chris Consentino Boccalone and Cockscomb, San Francisco

fall/winter 2016

|

This celebrity chef says meat is his muse. Popularly known for his TV appearances—for example, on Food Network’s Iron Chef America and as winner of Bravo’s Top Chef Masters—he has made a name as a leader in charcuterie’s resurgence.

As executive chef at Incanto in San Francisco, which closed in 2014, Chris Consentino hosted an annual “head-to-tail” dinner in which he’d make a point of using an entire animal, even serving pork’s blood with chocolate for dessert. This philosophy, he says, was inspired by his friend, French chef Jean-Louis Palladin, who taught him “to be realistic and respectful about the path an animal takes from farm or forest to plate.”

At Incanto, Consentino created a house-cured charcuterie plate that included mortadella and fennel salame. When guests asked where they could purchase Incanto’s meats, Consentino and Incanto owner Mark Pastore opened a salumeria (Italian delicatessen) called Boccalone, also in the City by the Bay, in 2007. (The slogan on its T-shirts: “Tasty Salted Pig Parts.”)

There and at farmers’ markets, customers can purchase Consentino’s meats, including the bestselling mortadella hot dogs and cured salumis, such as capocollo, a neck meat aged with spices; guanciale, a salt-cured pork cheek used in Carbonara dishes; and even orange and wild fennel salame. (Customers enjoy getting a selection in the store’s popular “meat cone” dish.)

Besides Boccalone, Consentino focuses his attention on his newest restaurant venture, Cockscomb, and his blog, OffalGood.com, which highlights his passion for cooking offal, the parts of an animal that are not skeletal muscle. (It literally means “off fall”—the pieces that fall off the animal during butchering.) But don’t expect him to rest on his laurels—this creative chef is constantly reinventing. “The possibility of catching lightning in a bottle, or within a salami casing, is enticing,” he has said. “That’s what will forever thrill us about the art of cured meats.”

41 COL.fw16.gourmet.indd 41

9/22/16 4:06 PM

| coleson

Zach Allen B&B Hospitality, Las Vegas Meat making is part passion and part tradition for Zach Allen. While he was growing up, his Germanheritage family gathered each fall to create a big batch of smoked sausages. His interest in working with cured and smoked meats professionally was piqued on a trip to Italy, where he met prosciutto makers and was inspired to learn charcuterie. At that time, Allen was preparing for the opening of Mario Batali’s Otto in New York City; he was determined to cure all meats—from those served as antipasti to the pepperoni on the pizzas—in-house.

To learn the craft, Allen worked with Armandino Batali, Mario’s father, who runs the famed Salumi in Seattle, and took formal training at Iowa State University’s Meat Lab, where he discovered the chemistry and technology behind meat curing and smoking.

“You need to know the science,” he explains. “Why you need the salt, the sugar, the nitrate and so on— and you need to be careful using them to make sure you’re safe.” Through Allen, Otto became the first New York City restaurant to have a cured meats plan approved by the city’s Health Department for HACCP (hazard analysis and critical control points), a food-safety system pioneered by NASA. Pig parts some chefs would discard engage Allen’s imagination. The loin, which is lean with a little fat but “not marbled like a shoulder,” he says, can be turned into lonza. “We season with salt and a little sugar and let the sweetness of the meat sing,” he says. Meanwhile, he handles the fattier shoulder by rubbing it first with salt and sugar, then rolling it in ground black pepper, fennel and cayenne to make coppa. Ankles, which contain tough meat, need a little extra work to become a succulent full-flavored cotechino. “We’ll season it with a lot of fall spices— black pepper, cinnamon, cayenne and clove—poach it really slowly in Prosecco for two to three hours,” he says. “Add all the skin and fat and it becomes tender.”

As for overall guidance, “it’s important to respect and look at the animal,” Allen says. “Take what the pig gives you and make it from there.”

He oversees 10 restaurants with B&B Hospitality, and has helped Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich open 17 properties in the United States and abroad. He brings in thousands of pounds of pork from Heritage Farms USA, which provides the restaurants with pigs bred and raised exclusively for them. “If you’re going to eat meat, this is the best way,” Allen says. “You’re using the animal to its fullest. You’re not wasting anything.”

42 COL.fw16.gourmet.indd 42

9/22/16 4:07 PM

Jamie Bissonnette Coppa, Boston; Toro, New York, Boston and Bangkok; Little Donkey, Cambridge, Mass.

fall/winter 2016

This meat genius actually spent many years as a vegetarian and vegan. Eventually, his culinary ambitions prompted a diet change. Jamie Bissonnette recalls that a one-time boss “said I was a good cook, but I’d never be a great cook unless I started eating the food.”

In 2011, Bissonnette won $10,000 on the Food Network show Chopped; in 2014, he was awarded the James Beard Foundation Award for the Best Chef Northeast and also published The New Charcuterie Cookbook: Exceptional Cured Meats to Make and Serve at Home. Today he owns five restaurants, having added Cambridge’s Little Donkey just this summer.

Writes celebrity chef Andrew Zimmern of Bissonnette: “He can take ordinary food, even odd bits, fifth-quarter stuff (the pluck, the viscera, ‘the nasty’ to some) and make angels weep.”

The rabbit mortadella in the book earned Zimmern’s praise; ambitious home chefs can also find recipes for Bissonnette’s duck prosciutto and Vietnamese bologna, or Cha Lua. For those hoping to get a taste of the chef’s own creations, an array of salumis, patés and sausages is available at Coppa.

Toro, a Barcelona-style eatery that focuses on seafood, finds room on its menu for Bissonnette’s carnivorous creations in tapas dishes, such as smoked beef heart and seared foie gras.

Those vegan days are long ago, but this chef’s respect for animals endures. He began experimenting with offal after seeing parts of the animal go to waste once the popular cuts were butchered off. “When I made the change from vegetarian to omnivore, I wanted as little waste as possible,” he says. He also insists on knowing where his meat comes from and only sourcing ingredients from sustainable providers, advising people not to cook with meat they don’t know anything about. “I only use people I can get to know and speak with about the pigs and how they were raised,” he says.

For would-be charcuterie enthusiasts, Bissonnette has simple advice: “It’s not something you can learn on a stage. It’s something one has to be really dedicated to.

But it’s delicious.”

| 43

COL.fw16.gourmet.indd 43

9/22/16 4:07 PM

grape

sipping sicilian

O

| Coleson

n the map, the island of Sicily looks as if it’s about to be drop-kicked by the Italian boot. Indeed, its abundant wines have long been kicked around—known more for quantity than for quality, with flabby reds, listless whites and assorted sweet wines like Marsala and Moscato di Pantelleria that were good for cooking but not much else.

Till recently, says Brian Larky, owner of wine importer Dalla Terra Winery Direct in Napa, Calif., “when people thought of Sicily, they thought of mafia and Marsala. But it’s so much more.”

In fact, the island is home to more than 70 native grape varietals, with winemaking roots that run millennia deep.

And vintners today are drawing on that tradition, leaning on ancient grapes such as Grillo and Catarratto with a distinctive sense of place.

“Sicily is a place of great diversity, in its climate, its soils and, of course, its grapes,” says Alberto Tasca d’Almerita.

“It’s also full of history and culture you can see and touch and taste.”

After a ho-hum era, vintners on this historic wine-producing island are winning new respect. By Josh Sens

At 44, Tasca d’Almerita is a vintner of noble breeding—a count, no less, who is married to a princess (literally) and belongs to “the first family of Sicilian wine.”

His bloodlines in the industry trace to the 1830s, when forebears planted grapes in the center of the island. With father Lucio and brother Giuseppe, he oversees five of Sicily’s most respected wineries: Tenuta Regaleali, Capofaro, Tascante, Whitaker and Sallier de la Tour.

For the family business, the mid- to late-1900s brought robust growth, during which Lucio emerged as a pioneer, implementing a range of modern farming practices. He was the first Sicilian vintner to use a tractor and to dig a reservoir to catch rainwater. But he also held firm to traditions, championing indigenous varietals that were becoming vanishingly rare. Other wineries followed suit, among them Benanti, Ceuso, COS and Cusumano.

To sample the finest Sicilian wines today is to appreciate their wildly diverse profiles, by turns lean and feisty, lush

and complex. They’re reflective of a Sicily that contains multitudes, its topography ranging from stark volcanic peaks to sun-kissed inland valleys to low-lying flatlands cooled by coastal fog.

With five estates scattered across Sicily, the Tasca d’Almerita family makes wines in all of those settings, and their portfolio captures that wide-ranging terroir. It’s evident in stunning releases like Tenuta Regaleali’s 2014 Lamuri, a fruit-forward wine made from Nero d’Avola grapes grown in a rolling inland region, and Capofaro’s 2013 Didyme Malvasia, a bright white derived from fruit in vineyards stitched along Mt. Etna’s volcanic slopes.

As the managing director of the family business, Alberto is the widely recognized public face of all these labels. He and his wife, Francesca Borghese, show up on glossy Italian society pages. But his family’s wines, he says, are the true stars.

“People are getting more curious about indigenous grape varietals everywhere,” he says. “In that regard, Sicily is the biggest treasure in the world.”

Clockwise from top left: Vintner Arianna Occhipinti’s SP68, her blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato; the vineyard at the Tasca d’Almerita family’s Capofaro Malvasia & Resort on the isle of Salina, north of Sicily; majestic Mt. Etna rises above a Silican town; the dapper Alberto Tasca d’Almerita; the Grillo grape, a variety favored for Marsala winemaking; harvesting the Nero d’Avola grape varietal at the Feudo Montoni estate; a bottle of Tenuta Rapitala Grillo 2013; a lush bunch of Nerello Mascalese grapes, named for the Mascali area of Catania, where it’s believed they have originated.

Tasting notes Tenuta Regaleali Lamuri Nero d’Avola, 2014 Retail price: $20 Lush aromas of black cherry, vanilla and tobacco give way to velvety tannins on the palate in this nuanced, foodfriendly wine.

Tenuta Regaleali Rosso del Conte 2010 Retail price: $70 A rich ruby color is complemented by deep flavors of cherry and stone fruit that resolve in a long, smooth finish.

Tascante Buonora 2014 Retail price: $20 Aged in stainless steel, this wine has hints of grapefruit and understated minerality as well as a lean, clean finish; these qualities help make it a wonderfully refreshing warmweather white.

44 COL.fw16.grape3.indd 44

9/22/16 4:13 PM

fall/winter 2016

| 45 COL.fw16.grape3.indd 45

9/22/16 4:13 PM

tailoring

Tailor-Made

The mastery of old-world skills ensures expert fittings for our customers.

C

hallmark of a well-fitted suit.

Anastasia modifies garments both for fit and preference, and our customers routinely rely on her trained eye and opinion when looking in the mirror. Want a bracelet sleeve on a blouse? Easy.

Tweaking the princess seams of a dress just so for the perfect fit? She can make it happen.

Anastasia moved to the United States in 1992 and makes periodic trips back to the island of Ithaki to visit. Her pastitsio, a classic Greek dish of beef and béchamel, is enjoyed by everyone at Coleson family gatherings. She sings in the choir at Annunciation Greek Orthodox Church and enjoys swimming, crocheting and reading.

Leonid marked a major milestone in 2013 by passing the exam to become a U.S. citizen. In addition to his 9-to-5 job at Coleson, he serves as pastor of Lancaster’s Ukrainian Baptist Church. He and his wife are proud grandparents to 12 grandchildren.

In his free time, Leonid enjoys fishing and simply being in nature, which usually means cultivating his extensive garden.

| coleson

ontrary to popular belief (and unfortunately common implementation), suits are not intended to fit every body off the rack.

What sets a haberdashery such as Coleson apart from run-of-themill clothing stores is our ability to provide an expert fit, regardless of the quality of the garment. Although at Coleson, we believe expertise and quality are best interwoven.

Our customers’ satisfaction would not be possible without the skilled hands of our tailors—Anastasia Molfesi and Leonid Bliznyuk have decades of experience in the old-world art of master tailoring.

Anastasia began honing her skills after school in her native Greece at 14 years of age, while Leonid, who comes from the Ukraine, has been tailoring for 32 years.

Taking in the sides of a jacket or shortening its sleeves requires unstitching the delicate lining to access the ligaments of the jacket, then closing it back up again.

Lowering the collar (which reduces a common horizontal wrinkle at the base of the neck) takes an average of two hours of work but achieves smooth shoulders, the

46 COL.fw16.tailor.indd 46

9/22/16 4:17 PM

Beyond Beautiful Backyards

It’s not just a living space, it’s your lifestyle

Excellence in Everything This is far more than simply our slogan, it is the underlying rule by which all actions and decisions are measured.

The reason is simple. We’re helping you create better living spaces for your home. You share those with the people you love. You entertain your guests there. It’s where relationships are forged and memories are made. Anything less than excellence on our part would diminish your experience.

BreyerConstruction.com

www.

THE LANCASTER

CHAMBER OF COMMERCE & INDUSTRY

BREYER RIGHT.indd 1

717-723-8DEK (8335) PA HIC #010620

Breyer

Construction & Landscaping, LLC

NADRA NORTH AMERICAN DECK AND RAILING ASSOCIATION

R

R E MOD E L E R S

9/22/16 11:52 AM

GROOMING

The Razor’s Edge Rotating blades? Forget it!

A wet shave—the way your grandfather did it—is always a cut above the rest.

| Coleson

Your suit and shoes say you have style, so don’t let a five o’clock shadow detract from your look. How do you fix this hairy situation?

Don’t reach for the electric shaver that was gifted to you on Father’s Day. Unless you’ve run out of time in the morning, Norelco isn’t the answer; it won’t give you the close shave your skin deserves. The best way to whack those whiskers is with an old-fashioned wet shave, which is making a comeback among gentlemen keen on making the right sartorial choices.

You’ve seen it done in Hollywood (remember Robert De Niro in The Untouchables?), but you can experience a wet shave in the comfort of your own home. All it takes is the right tools and ’tude. Think of shaving as a ritual and a tradition rather than a chore; your face will thank you in the end. prep work To start, apply a hot towel to your face to open pores and zap any bacteria on your skin. Keep it on for about five minutes, then massage a preshaving oil (a pea-sized drop or two is all you need) evenly on the skin. The oil will allow the razor to slide easily across the face, reducing irritation.

Dump the canned shave gels and foams.

Instead, use a high-quality cream or shaving soap that moisturizes and doesn’t contain too

many chemicals. (If you can’t pronounce the ingredients, skip it.) Lather up and apply it over the oil using a quality brush—think bristles made of badger or horsehair. the shave Now comes the fun part—using a sharp doubleedged safety razor, like the kind that your grandfather might have used. A straight blade will give you the closest shave, but since it’s also known as the “cutthroat,” we recommend leaving that one to the professionals. Shave with the grain first, then pass across the grain if your skin isn’t too sensitive. Going against the grain might seem like a good idea—especially along the neck—but that will increase the likelihood of razor bumps and ingrown hairs. finish line Once you’re stubble-free, rinse with hot water to remove any excess cream and oil. Then splash your face with cold water. This will close the pores and prep your skin for a cool aftershave balm. If you didn’t rush the process and followed the steps carefully, you won’t experience too much of an “aftershave sting.”

You only need a small amount to hydrate the skin and prevent irritation.

Voilà! Run your hands up and down your face and feel the softness because you’re done and ready to face the world.

48 COL.fw16.grooming2.indd 48

9/26/16 12:12 PM

LANCASTER MED RIGHT.indd 1

9/23/16 2:49 PM

LORO PIANA “EXTREME” PERFORMANCE FABRIC

SAMUELSOHN LEFT.indd 2

9/8/16 11:29 AM