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BOYDS Spring Fashion THE AUDI R8

BOYDS SPRING 2009

Philly’s Best Dressed

Road Rocket: the Audi R8

BANDON DUNES

Taking on the DRUNKEN TIGER Gildo Zegna on what to wear

Dream Bedrooms

MORE OF PHILLY’S best dressed Bedrooms made for dreaming

GILDO ZEGNA SPRING/SUMMER 2009

New Fashions for Spring


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F E AT U R I N G T H E

LANE

www.santonishoes.com

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I K E BEHAR NEW YORK

Available at Boyds

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1808 Chestnut Street Philadelphia, PA 19103 Tel: 215.563.9275

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Begin your own tradition.

You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely take care of it for the next generation.

Annual Calendar Ref. 5396R, Calatrava cufflinks.

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{ contents }

76

features Audacity Pays Off Audi took a chance on the R8, a mid-engine exotic that goes head to head with revered sports cars and comes out a winner. ~-~ ~-~

62

Boyds Stories

Seven devoted customers explain why Boyds is their key

to looking great.

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67

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A Rolling Highland Fling

82

Great food, single malts and bonhomie prove to be just the ticket aboard the most luxurious of touring trains. ~-~

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Armani to Zegna … and Everyone in Between become fashion-fluent, you first have to master your ABCs.

Hats Off to Spring

Before you

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A nod to hip and crisp weekend wear.

82 ~-~

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98

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And So to Bed … These perfectly tailored bedrooms will set you dreaming.

114

In Full Bloom of the season.

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Gardens and wardrobes alike are aburst with the beauty

114

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The Color You Crave Punctuate your springtime palette with bright splashes of orange, yellow, purple and more. ~-~ ~-~

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Black & White & Red All Over Leave the shades of grey for another day and go back to the basics with classics that pop. ~-~ ~-~

128

Cover:

He wears a brown soft-plaid suit and dress shirt from Ermenegildo Zegna and a Ferragamo tie. She wears a dress by Giambattista Valli and gold inside-out pavé diamond oval-shaped hoops by Govberg Jewelers at Boyds. Flowers here and throughout this issue are by Robertson’s Flowers. Furniture in the fashion shoots was provided by Luxe Home and Design Within Reach.

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FALL • WINTER 2008

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departments

THE BOYDS INTERVIEW:

Ermenegildo Zegna

54 Invitation to Style

22

Looking good, feeling good

The Boyds Guide

54

Extreme marine style … Growing with Gucci … The Drunken Tiger … Viva Zanotti! … Boyds goes Hollywood … Trunk shows to try … and more!

27

The Sporting Life Massive greens and hellish bunkers are among the challenges at Old Macdonald, the new golf course at Bandon Dunes.

27

136

Wrist Action

114

A full century into its history, Ermenegildo Zegna remains a global leader in men’s luxury clothing. Meet the man behind the brand.

High style is created by the interplay of jacket, French-cuff shirt, elegant links and a fine timepiece.

38

Malt Yamazaki 18-year-old, a complex whisky from Japan, will wow any Scotch lover.

142

Work Hard, Play Hard Day or night, you can’t go wrong with a navy suit.

40

Here Comes Sunshine Must-haves for spring include wardrobe staples in fresh, fun colors.

42

Put the Pedal to the Metal These new driving shoes pair great looks with soft-soled comfort.

44

Haute Heels, Fab Flats You may just stop traffic in the latest footwear by Gucci.

46

Jewelry & Watches Govberg’s horology happenings … New Rolex Boutique

50

Estate Jewelry What’s the best way to sell your unwanted jewels and watches?

148 Finishing Touch One of the most popular men’s brands among Boyds customers, Trussini represents great sartorial value.

152

38


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Spring 2009

An Invitation to Spring

All that is French Country Celebrate Our Grand Opening Saturday, May 9, 2009 10AM - 6PM Palmer Square, 15 Hullfish Street, Princeton 888.838.3122 Fabrics

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Furniture

Home DĂŠcor

Lighting

Wallpaper

Trade Program

Custom Studio

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Cherry Hill

Cherry Hill Classic Cars

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HUGO 0054/S

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B O Y D S

{ invitation to style }

1818 CHESTNUT STREET · PHILADELPHIA

2 1 5 . 5 6 4 . 9 0 0 0 w w w. b o y d s p h i l a . c o m MONDAY

to SATURDAY: 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m.

WEDNESDAY:

Editor & Publisher MARK DOWDEN

LOOKING GOOD & FEELING

Creative Director AMY A. DOWDEN Art Director STEPHEN M. VITARBO

GOOD

Fashion Editor ALYSSA DEVORE Associate Fashion Editors MICHAEL

Spring is finally here, and it's typi-

CUTONE, FRAN D’AMBROSIO, SEAN

cally greeted with great anticipa-

GENERAL

tion—flowers blooming; warmer,

Contributing Editors JENNIFER CENICOLA, TIMOTHY KELLEY, IAN KEOWN, MARIA

longer days; baseball, and new

LISSANDRELLO, FRANCESCA MOISIN,

fashion. This year, however, the

PAUL ROGERS

mood has changed for many, and

Contributing Photographers MICHAEL DOUCETTE, MICHAEL DWORNIK

for obvious reasons. We need to be optimistic. Everyday we have customers stop in and tell us about their families. We

Art Associate LAURA CARAMAGNA

Boyds’ third-generation owners pose in the atrium of the store (left to right: Kent Gushner, Ralph Yaffe and Jeff Glass).

SHAE MARCUS

dings to new puppies. Gas is under $2 a gallon, mortgage rates are the lowest they PEEKS

Advertising Account Executive

have been in 30+ years, there are amazing deals on cars, and all of the Academy

JENNIFER DOSS

Award winning movies are now on dvd. The glass isn't necessarily half-empty-it

Production Manager CHRISTINE HAMEL

can be viewed as half-full.

Advertising Services Manager

What role does Boyds play in all of this? It's really quite simple.

THOMAS RAGUSA

The other day someone stopped in on his way back to his office from a

Senior Art Director, Agency Services

meeting. He mentioned that just walking into Boyds made him feel good. The bright colors, the new merchandise, familiar faces saying hello. He didn't plan It’s all in

on stopping in and was only here for a short while. He bought a bright tie and

the wrist

walked out wearing it with a smile. When you look good, you feel good. And

see page 38

RITA GUARNA

National Advertising Manager

hear about everything from wedSneak

Corporate Editorial Director

KIJOO KIM

Accounting AGNES ALVES, MAGDALENA SZARGUT

better yet, a compliment makes you feel great. Once in a while, we all need to

Published by

escape from the dreary news into a brighter, happier place; that's not such a

Chairman CARROLL V. DOWDEN

bad thing.

President MARK DOWDEN

So what will it take to brighten your day? Whether you make a purchase, come in for lunch, or just enjoy being in the store looking at the new collections and catching up with friends, we are here. While some things may have changed, what you have come to enjoy and rely on at Boyds has not: a big selection of the

Executive Vice President JOEL EHRLICH Senior Vice President EDWARD BURNS Vice Presidents AMY A. DOWDEN, NIGEL EDELSHAIN, RITA GUARNA, SHANNON STEITZ, SUZANNE TRON

Diggin’ her

best designers (coverage of the new lines begins on page 82); unparalleled serv-

Regional Sales Director

heels

ice and trusted fashion advice; unique in-store events (Eagles fans, see page 34);

DOUGLAS C. BARKER

see page 118

superior value, as exemplified by brands like Trussini (see page 152); a complete

Director of Marketing

selection of jewelry and timepieces at Govberg Jewelers at Boyds; a relaxing café

CHRISTOPHER KAEFER

Circulation Director LAUREN MENA

with delicious food, and an all-around great shopping experience. These are all part of the “Boyds Experience.” Even in uncertain times, we're committed to investing in that experience, making it more fun and comfortable to shop, with greater savings than ever before for you, our preferred

BOYDS Magazine is published twice a year by Wainscot Media, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645, in association with Boyds. Copyright © 2009 by Wainscot Media, LLC. All rights reserved.

customers. Remember, the glass can be half-full.

Editorial Contributions:

We look forward to seeing you soon.

Write to Editor, BOYDS, 110 Summit Avenue, Montvale, NJ 07645; telephone 201.782.5730; email mark.dowden@wainscotmedia.com.

KENT GUSHNER

JEFFREY GLASS

R A L P H YA F F E

The magazine is not responsible for the return or loss of unsolicited submissions. Subscription Services: To change an address or request a subscription, write to Subscriptions, Boyds, 1818 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, PA 19103; telephone 215.564.9000. Advertising Inquiries: Contact Shae Marcus at 856.797.2227 or shae.marcus@wainscotmedia.com.

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{ the

boyds guide } Growing with

Try the knot Bottega Veneta is best known for handbags, and of all its signature bags, the most recognizable is The Knot, a rounded-edge capsule with a knot-shaped clasp. Now marking its 30th anniversary, The Knot has been interpreted by Bottega in styles ranging from conservative to cutting edge. Most iconic of all is the “intrecciato” weave rendered in leather or, as seen here, silk. Available at Boyds, these gorgeous Impero satin versions of The Knot have suede trim and a satin lining. Boyds also carries Bottega’s woven leather shoes.

GUCCI

As a staffer at the Savoy Hotel in London, a young Italian named Guccio Gucci soaked up the refined taste of the English nobility. He brought this aesthetic back to his native Florence, where in 1921 he opened a small leather-goods shop. Beautifully designed and masterfully crafted, his leather goods were the building blocks of the House of Gucci, destined to become the world’s most famous Italian brand. Boyds has long been privileged to carry Gucci handbags, shoes and other leather items. And this season the store is proud to introduce men’s clothing from the venerable label. Since Frida Giannini became creative director of Gucci three years ago, she has created major buzz around its clothing collections. Her highly personal interpretation of the brand’s heritage brings a touch of rocker attitude to men’s suits and sportcoats, but be assured, these garments are eminently wearable. The look is confident, contemporary and sexy. Exquisite fabrics and flawless, detailed handwork are also part of the picture—just as one would expect from Gucci.

Extreme Marine Style When created in 1972, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak collection overturned the existing codes of fine watchmaking and asserted itself as the first high-end steel sports watch. Twenty years later, the famous octagon was reinterpreted in an extreme luxury sports version that became the Royal Oak Offshore collection. Expanding boundaries in both luxury and size, the Royal Oak Offshore collection paved the way for today’s celebration of boldly dimensioned watches, as well as the enthusiastic acceptance of unconventional materials such as carbon fibre or rubber for luxury timepieces. Offered in a variety of metals, including steel, titanium, gold and platinum, the collection shows off the immaculate finish work that has always distinguished the Royal Oak line. Founded in 1875, by young men with a passion for fine watchmaking, Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet, Audemars Piguet has long represented the utmost in horological tradition and craftsmanship paired with avant-garde style. Today, Audemars Piguet watches remain a favorite of celebrities, royalty and heads of state, and are available exclusively in Philadelphia at Govberg Jewelers on the first floor of Boyds. SPRING

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Eat a Drunken Tiger When Raw Café @ Boyds opened last fall on the store’s mezzanine level, Master Sushi Chef Sam Yoon knew his reputation for creativity would be tested by a discerning lunch crowd. His additions to the spring menu were devised with taste, design and a wow-factor in mind—and perhaps the fear of being upstaged by diners’ views of the latest releases from Manolo and Ferragamo. Yoon conceived his newest roll, the Drunken Tiger, as a synthesis of Japanese roots with American flavors and

Viva ZANOTTI!

techniques. Tuna, spicy tuna, salmon, white tuna, king crab

Alison Krauss wore him at the Grammies. Kate Hudson wore him at the People’s Choice Awards. He’s Giuseppe Zanotti, and you could call him the award winners’ shoe designer of 2009. Zanotti was working as a DJ when, in his early 20s, he gave fashion design a whirl. As a native of San Mauro Pascoli, one of Italy’s most famous shoemaking districts, he naturally gravitated to shoes. Now his glamorous, architectural creations are turning up on famous feet worldwide. We invite you to check out Zanotti’s latest collection at Boyds, and discover what Beyoncé, Fergie, Uma and others have been raving about.

ALL-ACCESS PASS:

the trunk show Trunk shows are a vestige of the early days of apparel retailing, when manufacturers’ representatives would visit stores with trunks full of the latest fashions, and store owners would choose the items that best suited their customers. Nowadays, we go straight to designers’ showrooms in Milan, Naples, New York and elsewhere to select merchandise for each season. But the trunk show lives on—giving you the opportunity to see and purchase items from the entire line. Here are some of the trunk shows coming up at Boyds. 28

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and avocado nestle inside, and the Tiger is topped with eel and masago. Yoon finishes off the roll with scallions, tobiko and crushed sesame seeds. If the Drunken Tiger sounds big, that’s because it is. “Sam’s specialty rolls are great for sharing,” says General Manager Jesse Lee. “But most of our regular customers order a roll just for themselves, and then some. The sushi is just that good!”

FRIDAY, MARCH 20 Samuelsohn: clothing

FRIDAY, APRIL 3 – SATURDAY, APRIL 4

WEDNESDAY, APRIL 22

Ermenegildo Zegna:

Santandrea: clothing Trussini: clothing

clothing and custom shirts Santoni: shoes Hamilton: custom shirts THURSDAY, APRIL 23 – SATURDAY, APRIL 25 Nima: women’s clothing

clothing and custom shirts SATURDAY, MARCH 21

Ermenegildo Zegna: clothing and custom shirts Samuelsohn: clothing Boyds: custom shirts Jan Leslie: cufflinks WEDNESDAY, MARCH 25

Ravazzolo: clothing Kiton: clothing FRIDAY, MARCH 27 – SATURDAY, MARCH 28

Armani Collezioni: clothing and custom shirts

THURSDAY, APRIL 9 – SATURDAY, APRIL 11

Armani Collezioni: women’s clothing Samuelsohn (Sat. only): clothing FRIDAY, APRIL 17 – SATURDAY, APRIL 18

Hickey Freeman:

Armani Collezioni:

WEDNESDAY, APRIL 29

Ermenegildo Zegna: clothing and custom shirts

clothing

THURSDAY, MAY 7 – SATURDAY, MAY 9

Allen Edmonds

David Rodriguez:

(Sat. only): shoes Burberry: clothing Boyds: custom shirts

women’s clothing

Isaia: clothing and custom shirts Nima

Ike Behari (Sat. only): custom shirts Burberry (Sat. only): clothing Scott Kay (Sat. only): cufflinks and jewelry

Isaia

Santoni

SUMMER 2009

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{ the

boyds guide}

Your missing

LINKS Designer Jan Leslie’s meticulously handcrafted cufflinks have been attracting attention since she left a career in accounting 15 years ago for an internship in metal design at Parsons. The Wharton grad and former management consultant for a Big Eight firm used her business know-how to start her own jewelry atelier, which she built on minia-

Boyds goes Hollywood

ture masterpieces. Leslie’s best-sellers are whimsical designs from the animal kingdom—a sterling silver bee (or is it a yellow jacket?) with abdomen and stinger hand-painted in layers of vibrant enamel, a pink crocodile, a black Lab. … Worn as part of an otherwise conservative look, these beauties provide a pop of color at the wrist and tell the world you have a sense of humor.

Protean actor Jamie Foxx stopped by Boyds recently to freshen his wardrobe. Foxx, pictured here with co-owner Jeff Glass, was in town for the filming of Law Abiding Citizen. Many of the clothes you’ll see in the thriller, which is set in Philladelphia and scheduled for release next year, were purchased at Boyds by costume designers who wanted an authentic local look.

Meet the Press Gang The tailor shop at Boyds is a behind-the-scenes marvel—the only one of its kind in the Philadelphia area. The tailor shop is simply part of our commitment to keeping our customers looking their best. One aspect of this commitment is the expert way we press a suit after we alter it. It’s no simple matter, but rather a multi-step operation that takes place on a succession of 10 specialized machines, as seen in these photos and listed below. The whole process takes fully half an hour. Alterations and pressing are free with your purchase, by the way, and for a full year thereafter.

PRESSING THE SUIT JACKET 1. Collar 2. Sleeves 3. Arm holes 4. Shoulders (same machine as arm holes) 5. Impression removal (getting rid of the marks made by the previous machine) 6. Blocking (pressing the upper arm) 7. Front and body (the jacket is pressed in four segments) 8. Lapel 9. Touchup, steam and inspection!

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PRESSING THE PANTS 1. The seams in the legs 2. Cuffs 3. Legs 4. Top front and back 5. Smooth the pleats (if there are pleats) 6. Impression removal (from pressing the cuffs) 7. Touchup, steam and inspection!

Join us online for added value Visit www.boydsphila.com, where you can sign up to receive exclusive offers, the latest in fashion, style tips, invitations to special events and more! You can also buy Boyds gift cards online. The card is a much-appreciated present for a colleague, client, friend or loved one, and now it’s ridiculously easy to give. And later this year we’ll introduce the ultimate convenience: online shopping.

SUMMER 2009

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start building

your appetite.

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{ the

boyds guide } TIE One On Rolando Scapellato named his necktie collection Dolcepunta (Italian for “soft point”) after its signature detail— the subtly curving tip that demands more skill from a tailor than a standard point. Scapellato’s neckwear is all about craftsmanship. Dolcepunta’s seven-fold tie—a large piece of lightweight silk folded seven times to create a symmetrical triangular-tipped blade— requires four times more silk than the average necktie and heaps more skill. “With that much fabric, the trick is to keep the lightness,” Scapellato has said. “Otherwise you end up with a tank around your neck.” No tanks, these. Dolcepunta ties come in a range of colorful satins, foulard prints and richly colored jacquard weaves, all of which sit lightly on the neck and make a long, chunky, beautifully dimpled knot. You will not find a better-constructed necktie.

Oh, Brothers!

Mr. Fix-it Physical therapist and entrepreneur Joe Zarett makes it his business to rescue Philly’s luminaries from painful injuries and whip them back into shape. “We take people from despair to top-notch fitness,” he says. That includes everyone from the city’s top doctors and attorneys—the weekend warriors—to pro athletes. Zarett recently unveiled an expanded fitness studio and sports medicine rehab center just in time to handle a boom in business. In the past year, the client list of Zarett Rehabilitation Associates has doubled. He partly credits his success to Boyds, where associate Howard Eisenberg has kept him looking sharp for 20 years. “I’m a guy you’ll rarely see wearing ties,” Zarett says. “But I love sportcoats and well-made suits.” He also appreciates feedback from Boyds’ tailors about his clients. “When I go to try on my suits,” he says, “they always tell me about such-and-such and how their waistlines are shrinking.”

It was 70 years ago that three brothers just off the boat from Abruzze, Italy—Danny, Joe and Thomas Di Bruno—opened their own shop at the Italian Market in South Philadelphia. That was also the year that the three Gushner brothers, Alexander, Albert and Ben, opened Boyds. Today, grandsons of the founders run both businesses. You might even call Boyds and Di Bruno’s “brothers in business” for all they have in common—each of their names has become synonymous with quality and service. If Boyds is the sartorialist sibling, then Di Bruno’s is the foodie. Di Bruno’s Rittenhouse Square, a market and café that opened four years ago a block east of Boyds, is a one-stop gourmet shop for the crustiest breads, rarest vinegars and most flavorful salumi. Not only does the store bring in expertly chosen imports, but it also proudly promotes local finds, like artisanal duck prosciutto cured by the Warminster outfit, River & Glenn, and gelato by Capogiro. And of course, there’s the cheese—an aging cave stocked with 500 varieties and a staff of passionate cheesemongers who are always ready with a suggestion and a taste. We’ll meet you there! 32

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French country charm, chez vous The best source of French Provincial furnishings this side of, well, France, is surely Pierre Deux. What began 40 years ago as a small New York antiques shop has gone on to become a major brand, with more than 20 U.S. stores, including one in Ardmore (at Suburban Square) and, beginning May 9, one in Princeton (at Palmer Square). There you’ll find antique and reproduction furniture, fabrics, wall coverings, lighting and artisanal objêts with that touch of Gallic rusticity. They say everyone has two nations, his own and France. With a visit to Pierre Deux, your home can be beautiful proof of that romantic notion.

SUMMER 2009

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boyds guide }

Boyds gives back The Philadelphia Eagles landed at Boyds for Tackling Breast Cancer, a fundraising event benefiting breast cancer care and research at Thomas Jefferson University Hospital. The store also hosted a shopping night for Jewish Family and Children’s Service of Greater Philadelphia. Pitcured top left, A.J. Feeley signing autographs; top right, Julie Hirshey, A.J. Feeley, Heather Mitts and Alyssa DeVore; above left, Jack Dembow, Jeff Glass, Douglas Kobak, Arthur Weissman, Michael Pearlstein and Roy Felgoise; above right, Janet Woolman and Mark Donovan; right, Jack Dembow and Judy Eisner; bottom left, Winston Justice and his Boyds tailor; bottom right, Brett Weinroth, Douglas Kobak, John Yellin and Kent Gushner.

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WWW.PAULSMITHUSA.COM

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{ elements of style }

wrist action

High style is created by the interplay of jacket, French-cuff shirt, elegant links and a fine timepiece

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•

Trussini windowpane sportcoat, Brioni shirt, Robert Talbott enamel & sterling silver cufflinks

Hickey Freeman tropical pinstripe suit, Canali shirt, Jan Leslie crocodile enamel and sterling silver cufflinks, Cartier Tank solo watch

Trussini glen plaid sportcoat, Eton shirt, David Donahue enamel & sterling silver cufflinks, Cartier Ballon Bleu watch

Canali pinstripe suit, Canali shirt, Baade II enamel & sterling silver cufflinks

Basile textured solid suit, Ermenegildo Zegna shirt, Dunhill sterling silver cufflinks, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony watch

Hickey Freeman Prince-of-Wales plaid suit, Oriali shirt, Jan Leslie enamel turtle cufflinks, Audemars Piguet Millenary watch

Ermenegildo Zegna pinstripe suit, Zegna shirt, Hobbs & Kent ceramic & sterling silver cufflinks hand-painted by Gary Taxali

Ermenegildo Zegna pinstripe suit, Eton shirt, Scott Kay sodalite & sterling silver cufflinks

ALL WATCHES FROM GOVBERG JEWELERS AT BOYDS

38

Ravazzolo pinstripe suit, Oriali shirt, Hobbs & Kent stingray & sterling silver cufflinks

SUMMER 2009

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{ essentials }

work hard, play hard Day or night, you can’t go wrong with a navy suit

This is the suit every man should own—a navy two-button in lightweight wool. In the business world, it’s sometimes called a “sincere suit” because it conveys credibility, stature and, yes, sincerity. The example shown here, by Trussini, offers the additional advantage of taking you from day to evening; it’s appropriate for any occasion short of a black-tie affair. And like the suit, the Ike Behar dress shirt goes from office to whatever comes next: It becomes a party shirt when you flip up the cuffs to flash some paisley. This goanywhere look is shown with a Robert Talbott tie, silk pocket square, Santoni shoes, Ferragamo belt and Cartier Ballon Bleu watch.

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{ essentials }

here comes sunshine Must-haves for spring include wardrobe staples in fresh, fun colors

White denim is in, and this flattering jean by J Brand is the perfect choice. Pair it with a sweater from Autumn Cashmere and sunshiny ballet flats from Lanvin. Ideal accessories include a wide patent-embossed belt by Giorgio Armani, a roomy crocodile clutch by Nancy Gonzalez, a Cartier Ballon Bleu watch with an orange croc band, and pink kunzite and diamond drop earrings. Watch and earrings from Govberg Jewelers at Boyds.

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© 2009 JA Apparel Corp.

HE LOOKS UP TO YOU FOR MORE THAN JUST YOUR SENSE OF STYLE.

apparel • accessories • boys • home • josephabboud.com

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{ hot stuff }

put the pedal to the metal

Magnanni’s woven leather driver softly says, “My other

These new driving shoes pair great looks with soft-soled comfort

car is a Lamborghini.”

Magnanni driver with rope-

Gucci takes moccasin styling to

covered buckle—what Penelope

the red line with the

Pitstop would choose for you.

“Guccissima” embossed driver.

Pebble graining and metal studs add octane to

Navy/natural webbing and

Gucci’s crested driver.

contrast stitching add dash to this Magnanni driving moc.

Frontier spirit meets “Buy me a Bellini” may be her first request when she sees you in this cream-

electronic ignition in the “Stag” moccasin from J Shoes.

colored driver by Magnanni.

Gucci’s signature horse-bit loafer has been reworked as a rubber-sole moc.

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{ hot stuff }

haute heels & fab flats You may just stop traffic in the latest footwear by Gucci Patent flat sandal with tortoise detail Tortoise and black patent peep toe pump

Gold metallic clog with Gucci’s signature horsebit “Scrunch” ballet flat

Black and tortoise patent low wedge (also available in ivory)

High heel sandal “Hollywood” d’Orsay peep toe with tortoise horsebit detail

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{ jewelry & watches }

Govberg’s

HOROLOGY HAPPENINGS Normally we’re not clock-watchers. But we had the time of our lives last fall when Govberg Jewelers wowed us—and hundreds of watch collectors, industry veterans and brand presidents and reps—with its “Annual Watch Fair: A Tribute to the Swiss & German Watchmaking Industries,” held October 24 to 26. From limited-edition offerings to educational seminars, brand-hosted dinners, and a toast from Mayor Nutter, the Fair was an affair to remember. (Set your calendar watch for this year’s event, October 23 to 25, 2009.)

Clockwise from top right: Robert Ronen, Dana Hagendorf and François Henry Bennhamias with Govberg Jewelers’ Ashley Cofone, Julia Govberg, Danny Govberg and Brian Govberg; Alexandra Castro, Carlos Rosillo and Stacie Orloff of Bell & Ross with Lisa Muracco of Govberg Jewelers and Eric Frank of Bell & Ross; Jeffrey Govberg and Danny Govberg with Marie Bodman, president of Breitling USA; a bird’s-eyeview of the bustling Govberg Jewelers at Boyds store during Watch Fair weekend 2008; Shelly & Irv Govberg with their son Danny, grandson Cooper and Ashley Cofone.

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Clockwise from top left: Benoit deClerk, left, president of IWC North America, with collectors at the IWC dinner at Nineteen; Philadelphia mayor Michael Nutter with Danny Govberg and Jeff Glass; Russell Kelly and Julien Tornare of Vacheron Constantin with Ashley Cofone; Penny Weiner and Phyllis Fischer at the Piaget dinner at Brasserie Perrier; Jaeger-LeCoultre representative Mark Griffith, right, allows customers the chance to try a new timepiece.

Govberg Grows with Rolex Boutique at The Comcast Center In September, Govberg Jewelers opened a retail location that is truly unique in the United States. Intimate in size at less than 1,000 square feet, Govberg Jewelers at The Comcast Center features Rolex timepieces exclusively, alongside beautiful diamond jewelry. To celebrate the grand opening, Govberg hosted a preview party at G, featuring a six-foot tall edible replica of The Comcast Center, the city’s tallest skyscraper, created by Charm City Cakes. The building of the cake and the event were featured on Ace of Cakes on cable television’s The Food Network. Govberg is Philadelphia’s only authorized dealer of Rolex timepieces.

Top right: Danny Govberg with John Gattuso of Liberty Property Trust and Brian Roberts of Comcast Corporation at the Comcast Center cake unveiling at G. Left: Govberg’s newest home, the center at 17th & JFK Boulevard. Bottom right: Hundreds of Rolex timepieces are on display at the new Govberg Jewelers boutique.

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{ the boyds interview } What clothes do you pack for travel?

GILDO

ZEGNA

I am very practical and I pack light. Our Traveler collection, created for the man on the go, is probably the collection I personally influenced the most—every pocket on every jacket is where I would like it to be. This season we launched the Cool Effect blazer, which offers protection against the heat produced by natural sunlight by reflecting the sun’s rays. The classic high-performance woollen fabric is given an exclusive wash treatment. This enables the surface of dark fabrics to replicate the properties of white fabrics, reflecting 80% of direct sunlight where they would normally only reflect 20%. Also, my Elements jacket is with me all the time. In the future, what do you imagine the Zegna suit will look like and be made of?

No matter how much innovation we bring to the table, I strongly believe that natural fibers will always be the main source of material used in our clothing. Superfine wool is in our DNA. The look will slowly evolve, and we will be there to lead that evolution. How do you control the quality of the fibers used in your clothes?

We have a long history when it comes AS BOYDS CELEBRATES its 70th anniversary, one

Zegna is a global leader in men’s

of our mainstay brands, Ermenegildo Zegna, is

luxury clothing. The current

preparing to celebrate its 100th: It was in 1910

Ermenegildo Zegna, known as

that young Ermenegildo Zegna founded a tex-

Gildo, recently sat down with

tile company in his hometown of Trivero, Italy.

BOYDS to discuss his role as

He aimed to create the highest-quality fabrics

fourth-generation leader of the

from the world’s best raw materials. Today,

brand that bears his name.

to selecting the best raw materials, and over the years we’ve developed close relationships with growers. We also participate in governmentsubsidized awards for the best growers; we give the annual Trofeo awards to the best growers, and in exchange we get their best prod-

Was it inevitable that you would join the

ment, I enjoy the small town

family business?

and Lake Lugano, and on

I was never forced to join, but I did grow

weekends, the mountains

up with it. I have a vivid memory of my

of St. Moritz.

was very natural that I joined the company.

54

standards are always maintained. How would you describe your

grandfather showing us around our mill in Trivero. It may not have been a given, but it

ucts. And we have expert technicians who make sure our superior

You say you travel

personal style of dress?

a lot. How much?

I am classic, but I like to have

I travel practically half of the

some fun with accessories. I

Where do you live?

time, but I love it. We are a global

In Lugano, a quiet city in the Italian part of

company, and there is no better way

TRADITIONAL TAILORING MEETS

Switzerland. I work in Milan and travel a lot

of understanding what is going on than

MODERN STYLE IN ERMENEGILDO

around the world. So when I have a quiet mo-

being there.

ZEGNA’S SARTORIA COLLECTION .

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{ the boyds interview } RIGHT, SELECTIONS FROM ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA’S MILANO LINE; BELOW, THE COOL EFFECT BLAZER FROM THE SARTORIA COLLECTION; BOTTOM RIGHT, ZEGNA JACQUARD STRIPED TIES, LEATHER BELT WITH PALLADIUM BUCKLE

particularly like knit ties

cultural, social and scien-

New York holds a special

What should American

from our Montenapoleone

tific initiatives around the

place in my heart. It has

men wear this spring

27 line.

world. It was established

a unique energy, and I

and summer?

in 2000 is presided over by

feel at home whenever

I suggest our Upper

my sister Anna.

I’m there.

Casual line, which is

business?

What’s the best part

What can’t you leave

chic expression of

She is not directly

about what you do?

home without?

Ermenegildo Zegna

Is your wife, Elena, in-

the sophisticated and

volved in the family

The best part is also my

I read a lot, so I like to

leisure wear. This season

business, but

biggest responsibility: I

bring books. When I’m

the wardrobe essentials

having been

run a company that has

on a plane or on vacation

are lightweight, decon-

by my side for

my name on the door.

I have time to catch up

structed blazers in cotton

over 25 years,

I’m responsible for the

on my reading without

or a cashmere-silk blend

she plays a much

more than 7,000 people

interruption, so I try to

offered in a soft color pal-

working for us. This is

take advantage of those

ette of greys and beiges.

both challenging and very

moments.

involved in the

bigger role than you might imagine!

If you weren’t CEO

rewarding. You have been called Your company has

listening to these days?

what would you

How so?

expanded greatly in

I like music as a back-

be doing?

My ancestors were

recent years, with

ground sound, so I listen

I don’t have any unfulfilled

environmentally conscious

boutiques around the

mostly to classical and

dreams. This is who I am

long before it was fashion-

world. Where will your

lounge music.

and what I do, and I’m

able. In the early 1920s

next store be?

they planted half a million

The next big openings

What’s your

trees on the hills behind

will be the global shops

favorite film?

the factory. This was the

designed by Peter Marino

La Dolce Vita, the

seed that eventually led

in Dubai and Hong Kong,

quintessential portrait

us to establish the Oasi

and we’re very excited

of Italy.

Zegna [Zegna Oasis],

about both. How would you What are some of your

describe your

covers about 100 square

favorite places in the

customer—the

kilometers. It incorporates

world, and why do you

“Zegna man”?

the Bielmonte Ski Resort,

like them?

There is not one

I love skiing and playing

ideal man, but

without damaging the

golf, so I visit the Alps

common threads

natural environment.

in the winter and go to

are confidence,

my country house on

personality, suc-

Fondazione Zegna, which

the lake in the summer.

cess and a great

promotes environmental,

I also love big cities, and

sense of style.

Today we also have the

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very happy in my shoes.

the Biellese Alps that

which was constructed

/

of Ermenegildo Zegna,

an environmentalist.

a conservation area in

56

What music are you

SUMMER 2009

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Cherry Hill Saab fully services all businesses in Philadelphia.

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DION ST YLE • QUALITY • SER VICE

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Com Des plimen ign t Ser ary vice

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Rocket-like, wide and low to the ground, the fierce R8 from Audi may be the perfect coupe for ripping up your favorite ribbon of road.

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AUDACITY

PAYS OFF Audi took a chance with the R8, a MID-ENGINE EXOTIC that goes head to head with revered sports cars and COMES OUT A WINNER |

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BY MARIA LISSANDRELLO

3/23/09 12:55:09 PM


Looking more Italian than German, the Audi R8 shares its space frame with a cousin, the Lamborghini Gallardo. The power plant, below left, is always on view through a transparent cover (this photo shows the optional V10 engine).

IT TAKES NERVES OF STEEL to debut a six-figure sports car. One that

R8 doesn’t have to beg for attention; it earns it. And with few on

nobody’s waiting for. One that’s set to compete against the beloved

the road (consider that Porsche sells a thousand 911s every month,

45-year-old Porsche 911, the BMW M6 and the Aston Martin Van-

while Audi figures to sell 300 to 400 R8s in a whole year), it owns the

tage. Yet in its debut year, the audacious Audi R8 was crowned

mark of exclusivity. Treat yourself to this $114,000 coupe, and odds

a supercar—Automobile magazine named it 2008 Automobile of

are you’ll be the only one in your zip code zipping around in it.

the Year; it trounced the Ferrari F430 to take 2008 MSN Car of the

Why so few? This is no assembly-line baby. Its 5,000 bits and

Year and was hailed as World Performance Car of the Year at the

pieces are hand-assembled by 70 specialists; all that loving care

2008 World Car of the Year awards. And those are just a few of the

yields just 15 cars a day. And before any one of them gets the Audi

many accolades.

stamp of approval, it must undergo a unique test: Some 95 lasers

What makes this road car so outstanding? Its aggressive design, for one. Rocket-like and low to the ground, wider than average, with

inspect the car in 5 seconds, in a sort of CT scan that ensures the two-seater is to spec.

its engine (mounted behind the driver and ahead of the rear wheels)

That means guaranteeing the aluminum space frame it shares

visible through a transparent cover that lights up in the dark, the

with its pricier ($70K-plus pricier) cousin, the Lamborghini Gallardo, is perfect; its retractable rear spoiler retracts, its LED brake lights

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M A R I A L I S S A N D R E L L O writes frequently about automobiles, food and

activate; its “shift-by-wire” technology is positioned to deliver ultra-

travel. She is also the librettist for opera composer Christof Bergman.

fast gear shifting and, well, you get the idea.

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But it’s when you put this machine to the test—slipping into the

where you tell it; and when you’re ready to stop, it stops.

cocoon-like cockpit (sleek rotary controls set against a piano black

Ready for curves? Take them with confidence; after all, the R8

console curve around the driver), settling into your cushy Alcanta-

is programmed to detect driving situations in seconds and deliver the

ra/leather bucket seat, and even finding

appropriate damping forces. And while

some room to stretch your legs—that the

THE AUDI R8 AT A GLANCE

its all-wheel drive and unequal tire sizes

real fun begins.

BASE PRICE: $114,500

keep it solidly in contact with the sur-

STANDARD ENGINE:

face, you’ll still thrill to the energy, power

Find a deserted straightaway and see if you can’t beat the 0-60 mph-in-4.5seconds promise. Blast the R8 to its 187 mph max and enjoy the shock and awe of feeling totally in control—the electro-

| 4.2-LITER, V-8 | 420 HP @ 7,800 RPM | 317 LBS-FT TORQUE | 6-SPEED MANUAL/6-SPEED R-TRONIC SINGLE-CLUTCH SEMI-AUTOMATIC GAS MILEAGE: 13 MPG CITY / 20 MPG HWY STANDARD FEATURES:

| BOSCH ESP 8.0 ELECTRONIC STABILITY PROGRAMME

and elasticity that make the R8 a stealth speedster. But what if you’re just tooling around town? Go for it. The R8 can be as sedate

magnetic springs and dampers guarantee

| BANG & OLUFSEN SOUND SYSTEM

as the A6, purring politely, slinking along

a smooth, stable ride, rounding off any

| ACOUSTIC PARKING SYSTEM WITH REAR-VIEW CAMERA

subtly—if that’s what you ask of it. This

harsh edges without making you feel as

| 19-INCH DIAMETER ALLOY WHEELS

dynamic coupe is nothing if not versatile,

if you’ve lost touch with the road; the

CLOSEST COMPETITORS: PORSCHE 911 CARRERA 4S, BMW M6,

an easygoing two-seater dying to be

steering is so precise the R8 goes only

ASTON MARTIN V8 VANTAGE

taken for a ride. SPRING

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boyds stories

7 devoted customers explain why Boyds is their key to looking great

T H E WAY W E F I G U R E I T, WE’RE IN THE PEOPLE BUSINESS.

Yes, we know fabrics and weaves, fashions and hues, but we don’t kid ourselves—it’s the people we serve and the ways we serve them that have brought us 70 years of success. What we are today we owe to you, our customers. That’s why, beginning with the previous issue, this magazine has published “Boyds Stories,” first-person accounts from shoppers who regularly turn to our store to outfit themselves impeccably—and in the process have a bit of fun. We promise we didn’t tell the people featured on the next few pages what to say (though we may have passed a hint or two about attire). But we’re gratified by what their testaments suggest: that in seven decades of dressing Philadelphians and discerning visitors, we’ve been doing something right. We hope to keep on doing it, and to continue presenting here the stories of clients who’ve become our treasured friends. (Maybe you’ll be next!)

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{ boyds stories }

robert w. bogle president & CEO, Philadelphia Tribune, the nation’s oldest African-American newspaper R E C E N T LY , I W E N T T O B O Y D S F O R A P A I R O F TA U P E L E AT H E R G L O V E S , B U T T H E Y D I D N ’ T H AV E M Y S I Z E . I have small hands. So they measured my hands and had a pair made up for me. That’s just one example of the lengths Boyds will go for a customer. I’m a bit of a shopper, and I’m smitten with Boyds, where I’ve been going for some 15 years. It’s not unusual for me to stop in about once a week. I don’t think I’ve bought a pair of shoes—Ferragamo, Church— anywhere else in the past decade. I wear a suit every day, and so do the people I work with. I think you’re judged by two things, the way you speak and the way you dress, so I want to send the right message. You can’t go wrong wearing Canali or Trussini. Another thing I like about Boyds is that they have had a diverse group of men and women working there since the beginning, all very competent and capable. When I shop, I want to see people who are well versed in fashion, and I get that at Boyds.

Bob regularly finds just what he needs at Boyds—this Trussini three-piece suit and custom shirt, for example— and the publishing executive isn’t keeping the news to himself.

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carol ann petren executive vice president and general counsel, CIGNA Corporation MY STYLE IS MODERN BUT CLASSIC. WHEN I MOVED TO THE AREA IN 2006, I ASKED PEOPLE ABOUT THE BEST PLACE FOR WOMEN’S FASHION. Boyds was on everyone’s short list for quality and service. My work involves public presentations and government relations, and my dress must accommodate both that professional world and more casual social settings. The store offers a wonderful selection of the classic designers I wear in my corporate life as well as the edgier fashion I enjoy on the weekend. And alterations are impeccable—and free. But the Boyds experience extends beyond fashion. When you walk through the door, you can count on warm welcomes and an invigorating conversation with Kenny Gushner about city happenings and current events. I don’t know many places where a couple of hours will assure you a spectacular season’s wardrobe, information about the best restaurants and a healthy debate on politics—all with a glass of wine in hand!

Garments like this shimmering jacquard jacket from Etro help Carol Ann represent her company elegantly— and her own sense of style too.

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CHICKIE’S & PETE’S IS A PRETTY CASUAL ENVIRONMENT WITH LOTS OF ACTION, NOISE AND MESSY FOOD, LIKE CRABS A N D L O B S T E R . I wear a uniform, which consists of an embroidered shirt, slacks and my Boyds leather blazer, because it’s sustainable and unstainable! I’m pictured here with buckets of “crab fries,” because that’s what started all this. I’d call my look “urban Italian”; my closet is stocked with the store’s Armani sweaters and suits. Over the years, the staff at Boyds has always been exceptionally accommodating. Case in point: I wanted a new Andrew Marc leather blazer to wear to this year’s Super Bowl. I called Boyds on Friday before the week of the game and they didn’t have it in stock. Somehow they managed to get one for me by Wednesday, in time for the game. Now, that’s service!

pete ciarrocchi A Robert Graham sportshirt and sportcoat, Trussini pants and Prada loafers keep Pete looking pulled together, no matter what befalls him.

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president & CEO, Chickie’s & Pete’s Crab House and Sports Bar

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{ boyds stories }

adrienne simmons founder and creative director of her own wardrobe styling business, P.S. I Love You “MY” SALESPEOPLE, SEAN GENERAL A N D L A U R E N H E R R I N G , K N O W E X A C T LY W H AT I L I K E . They can look at something new when it comes in and know immediately if I’ll want it. After previewing Nima’s spring line, they decided that Nima should design my gown for the Mid-Atlantic Presidential Inaugural Ball. Sean handled all the details and even accompanied me to New York for each fitting, even though one of them fell on his day off! Prior to my first fitting, Sean texted me: “I found the perfect shoes to go with the dress. I’m bringing them with me to New York.” When I put on the dress, which I’m wearing in this picture, I felt 100-percent certain that I’d chosen the perfect gown for this momentous occasion. I was so happy I decided not to go with traditional black! Several women complimented me on my dress, and I felt glamorous. I simply love fashion and am not afraid of standing out in a crowd! I’ve been going to Boyds since the store expanded its women’s department. I shop there for special events or whenever I need something with a little pizzazz. The best advertising for my business is my personal appearance—I have to make sure my style reflects not only the current fashion trends, but also a departure from what women will see on everyone else. And Boyds has never let me down.

For Adrienne, making an impression is a professional imperative. This vibrant custom gown by Nima did the job at one of the Presidential inaugural balls.

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{ boyds stories } T H E R E ’ S A C O M M U N I T Y S P I R I T AT BOYDS: EVERYONE—THE SALESP E O P L E , S TA F F, O W N E R S — K N O W S T H E L AT E S T EAGLES’ GAME SCORE. Everyone belongs to this city. For us, this makes Boyds a family. For those outside the city, it makes Boyds a way to experience the “Philadelphia spirit.” One of our most memorable Philly moments occurred when Colin, Art’s personal shopper, scored us an invitation to a Boyds-sponsored charity event for breast cancer. We had a great time and left with game tickets and field passes that we won at the auction, as well as a sports cap signed by Eagles’ players. In preparing for this photo shoot, both Colin and Romanita, my personal shopper, knew exactly what we would want to wear and had it waiting for us when we arrived at the store. That kind of insight is priceless. Sipping mineral water or coffee while chatting with one of the great sales professionals at Boyds is a joy. And after all this time they still laugh at our jokes!

drs. art nezu and chris maguth nezu A well-suited pair: Chris wears an Armani Collezioni charcoal grey pantsuit, while Art sports an Armani Collezioni microweave suit, Ike Behar French-cuff shirt and Santoni shoes.

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principals, Nezu Psychological Associates, and professors of psychology and medicine, Drexel University

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stewart cohen attorney, Cohen, Placitella & Roth W H E N I T R AV E L T H E C O U N T R Y F O R M Y L AW P R A C T I C E A N D T H E TA L K T U R N S T O M Y H O M E T O W N , T H R E E T H I N G S A LWAY S C O M E U P : the Eagles, the Phillies and Boyds—and not always in that order. Boyds is a classic for style, selection and service, unquestionably among the finest men’s stores in the nation. And this isn’t just me talking. It’s what I hear from guys in L.A., New York, Chicago, Florida—all across America. When I was growing up in Mt. Airy, I’d come to Center City and look admiringly through the windows at the old Market Street store. I couldn’t afford the clothing until I was out of law school and practicing. A trial lawyer’s suit is his introduction to the jury—and Boyd’s style and tailoring give your case the most persuasive start. The rest, of course, is up to you. When I pick up a suit after alterations at Boyds, I’m ready to grab it and run, but the tailor insists I try it on. He carefully examines the fit and, if necessary, marks it up, making sure the alterations are “just so.” It’s old-fashioned service, and it’s what makes Boyds Boyds.

Stewart makes a solid case for perfect tailoring in his impeccable Hickey Freeman glen-plaid suit. A Trussini shirt and silk tie complete the look.

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{ boyds stories }

robyn lewison president, HealthMark Enterprises (with Weaver) F O U R Y E A R S A G O , I WA S O U T WA L K I N G M Y D O G , W E AV E R , WHEN HE PULLED HIS LEASH TO A DEAD STOP IN FRONT OF B O Y D S . I’d always known about the store from my father and grandfather, but basically it was Weaver, my miniature black poodle with the big personality, who introduced me to Boyds. We’ve been coming ever since. As much fun as it is picking out designer pieces with my personal shopper, Lauren Herring, it’s the way the Boyds staff lavishes attention on Weaver that has won my heart. Some dogs play in the park. Weaver plays at Boyds. While Weaver rides the elevator, greeting as many people as he can and checking out the new fashions, I shop with Lauren. She actually knows what’s in my closet better than I do, which is really helpful when making a new purchase. I just bought a Narciso Rodriguez dress and a navy Armani jacket. I love that jacket. I wear it all the time with jeans; it fits me like a glove. When I leave Boyds, I have a pulled-together look that says I’m a professional woman who’s not afraid to show her feminine side. With the right shoes and handbag, Weaver and I can conquer the world!

Robyn accents her Giambattista Valli tweed skirt suit with a Nancy Gonzalez clutch from Boyds, plus a Bell & Ross BR-S watch, Gregg Ruth sapphireand-diamond ring, pearl-and-diamond flower earrings and pearl necklaces, all from Govberg Jewelers at Boyds. Weaver’s coat is his own.

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Corporate • Wedding • Residence Philadelphia • Bryn Mawr • Wyndmoor Consultations by Appointment 215.836.3059

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A Rolling

Great food, single malts and bonhomie prove to be just the ticket aboard the most luxurious of touring trains

HIGHLAND |

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BY I A N K E O W N

FLING

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ON MY FIRST NIGHT aboard The Royal Scotsman out of Edinburgh, I was

edging along its burnished, wood-paneled corridors when a soignée, tanned and slightly exotic lady stepped from her cabin and asked if I would be so kind as to help her open her window. Uh-huh. In situations like this the mind instantly downloads fictional hanky-panky (think Poirot, think 007) on the Orient-Express or the Trans-Siberian Express. But this being Inverness rather than Istanbul, it turned out that all the lady expected of me was a quick tug to part a pair of ventilation windows. Just as well. I was traveling with my wife and teenage daughter, showing off the beauty and history of my homeland and riding one of the world’s most sumptuous touring trains from Edinburgh through heathered glens and craggy peaks on the way to Dornoch in the north, Kyle of Lochalsh and Achnashellach in the west, through Whisky Country back to Edinburgh. For someone who grew up in Scotland, as I did, riding a train for four full days is somehow wacky: Hell, I could drive this route in a day-and-a-half. But then I’d have to cope with all that zooming traffic, seeing little but the truck in front, while our train, on the other hand, tootled along at a leisurely 50 mph, and I could stand on the open observation deck and watch the moors and lochs unfurl. For overseas visitors, of course, The Royal Scotsman is a godsend, eliminating the stress of driving on the left, of trying to remember who gets priority in roundabouts, of facing down flocks of sheep on one-lane byways. As one American passenger put

IMAGES COURTESY OF ORIENT EXPRESS

it: “When I saw the opportunity to tour Scotland by train, it seemed so convenient I leaped at the chance.” The Royal Scotsman has been around since 1990, but it was acquired in 2007 by Venice Simplon Orient-Express, which has pumped in additional funds for extra perks like bathrobes and slippers for guests, tailored uniforms for the staff of 16 and a connoisseur’s collection of

The Royal Scotsman glides along the shore of Loch Carron in the west Highlands (left), midway through its circuit. The journey begins on Platform 10 of Waverly Station in Edinburgh (above), where a piper in full regalia welcomes guests aboard the train. SPRING

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35 single malts in the bar. The train consists of nine carriages—five

ing sightseeing excursions aboard The Royal Scotsman’s own motor

State Cars (or sleeping cars), two for dining, an Observation Car and a

coach, sampling that rich tapestry of castles and gardens, monuments

crew car—eight of them meticulously refurbished with burled walnut

and mesmerizing landscapes; in the evening we socialized, giving the

and gleaming mahogany, marquetry panels and etched glass thistles.

four days the air of an exclusive Edwardian house party on wheels.

Twin cabins measure 85 square feet and resemble those on a luxury

Our fellow passengers (26 in all, 10 short of maximum capacity) were

yacht with their finely crafted woods and dusky red plaids; each is

predominantly American, including two families and two grandmothers

outfitted with twin beds, a desk and a small closet (empty suitcases

hosting their grandchildren on graduation trips. This particular departure

are stowed in the luggage car). Climate control—overhead ventilation

was a charter, organized by Manhattan-based Academic Arrangements

outlets, ceiling fans and a small ventilation panel—is adequate in most

Abroad on behalf of the Harvard Alumni Association, the National Trust

circumstances (this is, after all, Scotland, not the Mediterranean); but

for Historic Preservation and the Royal Oak Foundation (but open to

since we had four days of untypical temperatures in the high 70s,

everyone). “With alumni and people interested in preservation,” said

there were times when air conditioning would have been welcome,

one passenger, “they’re a very congenial group.”

hence the request to open the lady’s window.

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Our rolling house party filled four days with majestic lived-in cas-

Two features distinguish The Royal Scotsman from most other

tles (Dunrobin, Cawdor and Glamis), an after-hours tour of Strathisla

touring trains: Every cabin comes with its own toilet—24 square feet

Distillery with a whisky tasting and ceilidh (the traditional Gaelic get-

of ingenious design with space for a shower and six fluffy towels; and

together), a seal-watching cruise at Plockton, a demonstration of

the train “stables” overnight so that it is stationary while the guests

falconry at the home of the Earl of Sutherland and a guided tour

sleep (“stable” meaning, in this case, pulling into a quiet siding beside

of the most dolorous spot in Scotland, the battlefield at Culloden.

a country station). It’s a perfect game plan. By day, we enjoyed reward-

Some guests managed to squeeze in impromptu side trips—an early

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The outer railway loop of the map (opposite) shows the complete itinerary for The Royal Scotsman’s four-day “Edwardian house party on wheels.” Each passenger cabin (top) cradles guests in the burled and burnished comfort of a bygone era. At left, Plop the barn owl buzzes spectators during a falconry demonstration at the Earl of Sutherland’s place, a sidetrip of the journey.

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Looking like the Hogwarts Express from a Harry Potter movie (opposite), The Royal Scotsman snakes through Highland scenery. At Glamis Castle (above), where the late Queen Mother spent her youth, the crypt evokes a slightly creepy men’s club, with its antelope heads and suits of armor. Another stop is Cawdor Castle (right), where 18 hours of sunshine per midsummer day make for lush gardens.

morning jog across the bridge to the Isle of Skye or a round of golf on a classic Scottish course. No matter how rewarding or how much fun we had during the tours, we were also delighted to return to our luxury cocoon for lunch or dinner. The Royal Scotsman’s two Dining Cars bring to life the luxury trains we’ve all seen in movies and documentaries—brocade fabrics and tie-back curtains, wall sconces casting a glow on tables set with Royal Worcester china and Dartington glassware. But what made lunch and dinner such special occasions was the high caliber of the cuisine, a treat none of us had expected on a train, especially since several times a day we had to pass the implausibly tiny galley. It measured, according to the chef, just “eight steps from wall to wall,” yet our two maestros, Iain Murray and Paul Middleton, performed miracles using local produce wherever possible—Buccleuch beef, organic salmon from Speyside and plump langoustines and scallops bought direct from the fishing boats when we stabled in Kyle of Lochalsh. In one unfortunate respect The Royal Scotsman belies its heritage—it’s not at all thrifty (see details at right). But my fellow passengers seemed to find the trip worthwhile because of its uniqueness: the time warp of a luxury rail excursion, the company of well-traveled companions, the refined cuisine and private estate service, the sheer convenience of seeing so much with so little effort. And you can’t sip and savor 35 single malts when you’re driving.

RESOURCES FOR PLANNING YOUR TRIP Excursions on The Royal Scotsman begin at $1,635 per day per person, including meals and sightseeing; one-day and two-day tours are also available.

I A N K E O W N , author of Caribbean Hideaways (Frommer) and other books,

www.royalscotsman.com, 800-524-2420

has been writing about luxury travel for more than 30 years.

www.arrangementsabroad.com, 800-221-1944 SPRING

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from

ARMANI to ZEGNA & everyone in between

Before you become fashion-fluent, you first have to master your ABCs

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A

RMANI

This page Armani Collezioni

microweave two-button sidevented sportcoat, white sportshirt

Opposite Armani Collezioni charcoal striped suit, dress shirt; Ermenegildo Zegna mint, grey and silver striped silk tie; Salvatore Ferragamo green “hippos” pocket square

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B

RIONI

This page Brioni two-button sidevented sportcoat, dress shirt, silk tie, pocket square

Opposite On him: Brioni ink-blue striped suit, dress shirt, tie On her: Giambattista Valli cocktail suit; Manolo Blahnik zebra-stripe d’Orsay pumps; Govberg Jewelers baroque pearl and diamond necklace, diamond studs with pavé setting, pavé diamond bangles

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C

ANALI

This page, left Canali tan and blue windowpane sportcoat, khaki textured pant; Oriali peach linen shirt

Bottom left Ike Behar formal shirt; Carrot & Gibbs formal bow tie; Jan Leslie bee cufflinks and studs

Below Canali two-button peak-lapel tuxedo, formal shirt, formal tie Opposite On him: Canali blue peak-lapel textured striped suit, light blue tone-on-tone shirt, gold and blue tie On her: Valentino butterfly dress; Carlos Falchi patent embossed drawstring hobo; Chimento textured gold bracelets; Govberg Jewelers diamond studs with pavĂŠ setting

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F

ERRAGAMO

Clockwise from top Salvatore Ferragamo pocket squares, leather belts, loafer with tonal signature bit, silk ties

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G

UCCI

Gucci striped dress shirt, silk tie

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H

ICKEY FREEMAN

Hickey Freeman navy shadowstripe suit; Eton pink Frenchcuff dress shirt; Baade II blue enamel cufflinks; Trussini tie;

Santori pocket square; Franck Muller stainless steel Curvex chronograph

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I

SAIA

Isaia charcoal-grey two-button windowpane suit; Eton orange, white and blue striped dress shirt; Trussini silk tie and pocket square

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S

AMUELSOHN

Left Samuelsohn plaid sportcoat; Eton dress

shirt; Ermenegildo Zegna silk tie; Salvatore Ferragamo pocket square

Bottom left Santoni “Landon� oxford Below Samuelsohn tan side-vented suit; Ike Behar blue French-cuff shirt; Trussini yellow, navy and white striped tie; Allen Edmonds spectator shoes

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S

ANTANDREA

Santandrea navy two-button side-vented pinstripe suit; Brioni dress shirt, linen pock square

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T

RUSSINI

This page, top left Trussini navy two-button side-vented pinstripe suit; Ike Behar dress shirt; Robert Talbott silk tie and pocket square

Above Trussini grey, black and lavender glen-plaid suit, white and lavender striped French-cuff shirt; Dolcepunta lavender and silver tie

Bottom left Trussini classic navy blue textured blazer, dress shirt; 7 jeans; Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Geographic watch

Opposite On him: Trussini tan and brown windowpane sportcoat; dress shirt; silk tie On her: Etro skirt, printed blouse SPRING

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Z

EGNA

This page Ermenegildo Zegna dove-grey two-button side-vented cashmere/silk sportcoat, lavender striped dress shirt, silk tie

Opposite, top left On him: Ermenegildo Zegna brown twobutton side-vented soft-plaid suit, white and brown striped dress shirt On her: Etro floral print dress; Armani patent-leather embossed belt; Govberg Jewelers Signature Collection diamond studs with pavĂŠ setting

Right Ermenegildo Zegna grey pinstripe suit; striped dress shirt; Robert Talbott chocolate, lavender and black tie, linen pocket square; IWC stainless steel Portuguese watch with blue alligator strap

Bottom left Ermenegildo Zegna check/windowpane sportcoat, peach sportshirt; Incotex pant

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A nod to hip and crisp weekend wear

Hats off to spring Rag & Bone navy cotton jacket, grey pants, red microcheck shirt, straw hat

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Above On him: Versace Collection charcoal wool-silk pindot peak-lapel suit, mint green basketweave cotton shirt with spread collar On her: Etro printed chiffon dress; Nancy Gonzalez crocodile clutch; Govberg Jewelers cultured black pearl and diamond drops; Harry Winston Avenue B watch

Top right Loro Piana navy Storm System jacket with suede collar, lime cotton V-neck sweater, linen shirt, cotton pant

Bottom right Loro Piana cotton polo knits

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This page, right Robert Graham cotton sportcoat with patterned lining and under-collar detail, striped sportshirt; 7 jeans

Below Robert Graham sportshirts Opposite, top left Etro sportshirts Top right On him: Etro striped sportcoat, sportshirt and pocket square; IWC Portuguese watch On her: Etro floral jacket and shirt; Govberg Jewelers diamond studs with pavĂŠ setting

Bottom left Paul Smith glen-plaid suit and sportshirt Bottom right On her: Anne Claire sweater; J Brand jeans; Chimento textured bracelet On him: Paul Smith striped cardigan, yellow and brown striped sportshirt; Mulholland messenger bag

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Clockwise from top Gucci sneaker, dress shirts, loafer with signature horsebit, web belts with logo buckle

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Gucci logo travel bag and flip-flop

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This page Martin Gordon aqua half-zip cotton sweater, orange and white striped sportshirt, flat-front linen pant; Mulholland weekend bag

Opposite, top left On him: Spiewak peacoat; Vince striped sweater; AG jeans On her: Valentino R.E.D. jacket, ruffle shirt; J Brand jeans; Lanvin tote

Top right Powell soft jacket, print shorts; Martin Gordon orange linen shirt; J Shoes mocs

Bottom left Gran Sasso longsleeve knits

Bottom right Campione striped sweater with nylon trim; Hiltl cotton pant; Magnanni driver; IWC Portuguese watch

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Above Armani black Beckham jacket, striped crew-neck sweater, flat-front pants Top right On him: Hugo by Hugo Boss pinstripe suit with flat-front pant, white cotton stretch shirt On her: Sonia Rykiel dress; Kooba patent envelope clutch; Govberg Jewelers pink kunzite and diamond bracelet

Bottom right Ermenegildo Zegna sportshirts Below Santoni loafer

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On him: Belstaff coated linen jacket; Martin Gordon linen shirt; Rock & Republic jeans On her: Galliano silk strech jersey floral dress; Lanvin handbag

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You’ve entered your inner sanctum of personal style ...

and so to

BED THE PART OF YOUR DAY

spent unclothed (or wearing pajamas) may provide an excuse to look less than your best. But you at least deserve to lie down in a well-dressed crib. These perfectly tailored bedrooms will set you dreaming.

P H O T O G R A P H Y BY T I M S T R E E T- P O R T E R

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This page: Antique paisley fabrics appear on the barley-twist bed, the Venetian gondola chair and everywhere else in this sunny, antique-filled bedroom by Martyn Lawrence-Bullard.

Opposite: Taking advantage of high ceilings, designer Miles Redd installed a towering, mirrored four-poster in his own master bedroom. In a witty turn, the silk upholstery on the headboard is button-tufted to look like mattress ticking.

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This page: Designer Nate Berkus kept this masculine bedroom muted and dark. Looking like a giant club chair, the wingback headboard is upholstered in brown leather. Plantation shutters topped by panel curtains ensure an utter blackout at night.

Opposite: Antique textiles drape the bed and encase an ample supply of pillows in the bedroom of Fritz and Dana Rohn. The effect is to make the bed (with beckoning teapot) an intimate living space.

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This page: As with clothing, a combination of strong patterns in like colors can have a pleasing effect. Designer Lynn von Kersting pulls out the stops in this sumptuous bed chamber, where the count of fabric patterns runs at least to 10.

Opposite: Almost every surface in Muriel and Nuno Brandolini’s bedroom is covered in fabric. That includes the bed itself, upholstered in an eighteenth-century French textile. Eclectic artwork above the bed includes a small painting by Philip Taaffe.

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in full

bloom Gardens and wardrobes alike are aburst with the beauty of the season

Etro floral jersey gown; John Hardy silver/ gold Kawung cuff; Chimento earrings

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Iceberg bright floral dress with matching scarf; Nancy Gonzalez crocodile clutch;

s

Sh

ICEB n i rin kin ound b a gv ality iole n o s r e ts, be gone! Color and p

E R G ʼs f e s t i v e c onf ect io n

Chimento textured bracelets

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This page, Eniat. Ut lumsandre dolenis aut adiamet, volor illa feuisi. Duisisi. Wis nullan velestrud magnim vel utpat velit nonse minibh eu feum qui blam zzriuscidunt lut praesenim zzriusto eummolor suscip ex esto coreet augiam dolorem diat. Ro dolobore min henit incidunt vel ea feugiamet lum

Top left Gucci cork and metallic leather wedge

Top right Valentino ruffle patent-leather handbag

Left Valentino straw and leather frame handbag with floral detail

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a ET RO

nic

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e.

qu ti an or

ild

w

or

flowers when the yʼr ew or ke d ike “I l Etro floral brocade jacket, iridescent shantung pant, cotton printed shirt; Govberg Jewelers pink amethyst and pavé diamond ring

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This page, Eniat. Ut lumsandre dolenis aut adiamet, volor illa feuisi. Duisisi. Wis nullan velestrud magnim vel utpat velit nonse minibh eu feum qui blam zzriuscidunt lut praesenim zzriusto eummolor suscip ex esto coreet augiam dolorem diat. Ro dolobore min henit incidunt vel ea feugiamet lum

Top left Giambattista Valli floral Watteau-back cocktail dress

Top right Nancy Gonzalez brilliant crocodile clutches

Left Luciano Padovan linen and metallic strappy pump

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Nima white blouse and A-line floral skirt; John Hardy

ilosophy is to mak h p n g ew om desi y en “M fee le leg an t

wi tho ut

try ing too hard .”—N IMA Taherzadeh

“Kawung” silver pavé diamond ribbon bracelet

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the

Punctuate your springtime palette with bright splashes of orange, yellow, purple and more

COLOR you CRAVE

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This page, above Bottega Veneta orange woven purse Right Hillary Radley orange spring trench; Lanvin handbag; Cartier Ballon Bleu watch with diamond bezel

Below Luciano Padovan snake pump with patent-leather trim Opposite Just Cavalli leopard stretch-satin dress with keyhole and ruching; Nancy Gonzalez crocodile clutch; Chimento textured bracelets

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Above Lanvin leather and patent handbag with chain strap Right Valentino Roma yellow jacket, grey/yellow skirt; Govberg Jewelers cultured black pearl and diamond drops

Bottom left Neil Bieff beaded ombre gown Bottom right Lanvin patent-leather ballet flats

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Peserico self-belted cotton dress; Lanvin city sandal; Valentino straw and leather frame handbag

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Above Cotton by Autumn Cashmere pointelle drape cardigan, elbow-sleeve ballet scoop-neck; J Brand dark wash jeans; Nancy Gonzalez python and croc handbag; Govberg Jewelers baroque pearl and diamond necklace

Top right Manolo Blahnik lavender patent slingback Center right Luciano Padovan patent-leather platform sandal Bottom right Lanvin city sandal

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M Missoni gradient stripe criss-cross–back dress; Govberg Jewelers pink kunzite and diamond drops, pavÊ diamond bangles

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Left Catherine Malandrino multicolor silk yarn dress; Lanvin city sandal, tote

Below Luciano Padovan linen platform pump with patentleather detail

Bottom left Nancy Gonzalez royal blue croc envelope clutch

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Above Ferragamo mint-green leather handbag Right Neil Bieff ombre chiffon gown with aqua underlay; Nancy Gonzalez shiny clutch; Chimento earrings

Below Luciano Padovan color block sandal

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& RED ALL OVER Leave the shades of grey for another day and go back to the basics with classics that pop

Narciso Rodriguez blackand-white cocktail dress with ninja-star detail; Kooba patent envelope clutch; Govberg Jewelers insideout pavĂŠ diamond hoops

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Above Giuseppe Zanotti zebra-print peep-toe pump

Below Rag & Bone tuxedo jacket; J Brand skinny jeans; Valentino patent handbag

Above Diane von Furstenberg black-and-white stretch-silk crepe dress with butterfly print

Below Lanvin perforated patentleather handbag with nylon trim

FA L L

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•

WINTER 2008

/

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Piazza Sempione

Manolo Blahnik

graphic linen top

red buckle patent-leather d’Orsay pump

Giuseppe Zanotti satin-and-patentleather pump

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Valentino R.E.D. black-andwhite butterfly-print skirt and top; Carlos Falchi embossed patent leather hobo; John Hardy silver “Langit” circle diamond earrings

SPRING

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Akris Punto polka-

Narciso Rodriguez

dot jacquard jacket

black-and-white

and narrow-leg pant

corset dress; Valentino handbag with stud detail

Armani Collezioni

Zac Posen black-

black-and-white

and-ivory graphic

harlequin print

dress; Kooba

jacket and feather-

patent-leather

weight wool

envelope clutch

pleated pant

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Iisli Rio Samba silver viscose dress; Kooba patent-leather envelope clutch; Govberg Jewelers diamond studs with pavé setting; Harry Winston Avenue B watch

SPRING

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12/17/08 4:39:05 PM 3/19/09 8:02:11 PM


{ the sporting life }

B Y PA U L R O G E R S P H O T O G RA P H Y BY W O O D S A B O L D

OLD MACDONALD:

golf’s new challenge WHEN BANDON DUNES, a spectacular links on the southern coast of

Notwithstanding such relative austerity—or perhaps because of

Oregon, opened a decade ago, the course bore almost no relation to

it—Bandon Dunes Golf Resort proved a huge success, and deservedly

the manicured quality of American resort-style golf. Designed by a

so. Aficionados compared it favorably to Pebble Beach and the time-

Scotsman named David MacLay Kidd, the layout looked almost pri-

less links of the British Isles. Mike Keiser, the recycled greeting cards

mordial, with rumpled fairways that unfurled through gorse-covered

magnate who founded the resort, followed up with two more eigh-

dunes. Kidd made the playing corridors wide enough to accommodate

teens on the property: Pacific Dunes, an even more scenic seaside

the stiff winds off the ocean, but the concessions ended there. The

course created by Tom Doak and completed in 2001; and the inland

bunkers were deep (some of them forcing players to hit out sideways),

Bandon Trails, a Bill Coore/Ben Crenshaw design that debuted four

the turf unsparingly firm. To play the course you had to walk—there

years later. All three rank among the highest-regarded public courses

were caddies but no carts, a staple of high-end public golf across the

in the nation.

country. Even the accommodations at Bandon’s original lodge evoked rustic understatement.

Now comes yet another act. Keiser has rehired Doak and his design associate, Jim Urbina, to conceive a fourth course at Bandon, this one an homage to the golden-age course designer Charles Blair Mac-

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It could just as well be Scotland: This view of Old Macdonald Hole #7 in Bandon,

donald. The layout—featuring astoundingly broad fairways and mas-

Oregon, shows the gorgeous seaside setting and rustic links architecture for

sive, intricately contoured greens—is called Old Macdonald. Ten holes

which this new “old” course will surely become famous.

have been finished, and preview rounds will be available to the public

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A MAN TRUSTS THAT A WOMAN KNOWS

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beginning April 1; the entire course is to open in June 2010. Macdonald is considered the father of American “golf architec-

the piece of property was too interesting to reduce the assignment to that.”

ture” (in fact, he coined the term). Raised in Chicago by his Scottish

They’ve come up, for the most part, with their own takes on clas-

father and Canadian mother, he attended the University of St. Andrews

sic holes from the U.K. as Macdonald might have fashioned them in

in Scotland, where he learned the game on the storied Old Course.

Bandon, given the character of the land and the prevailing wind. The

He went on to help found the United States Golf Association, and to

par-five sixth, for example, has a Hell Bunker evocative of the fearsome

win the country’s first national amateur championship, in 1895. But

crater found on the fourteenth at St. Andrews. There’s also a Road

it’s Macdonald’s design work for which he is known. In a quest to

Hole inspired by St. Andrews’ famous seventeenth.

establish the game in America, he sought to build idealized versions

Another challenge was to design Old Macdonald in such a way that

of the world’s finest golf holes, most of them from British links. His

it would stand out from Bandon’s existing courses. The most obvious

most celebrated work includes the National Golf Links of America, in

departure is in the size of the putting surfaces. They’re considerably

Southampton, N.Y., Chicago Golf Club, Bermuda’s Mid Ocean Club and

larger than not only those of Bandon Dunes, Pacific Dunes and Bandon

the course at Yale University.

Trails but also, according to Doak, any modern-day course he’s seen in

In sketching out Old Macdonald, Doak and Urbina tried to place

some time. Also, there is less gorse in play, making it harder to lose a

themselves inside the architect’s head circa 1900, after he’d traveled

ball, and there are a couple of “unabashedly blind shots.” And although

and played extensively overseas. “We wanted the course to honor

the resort’s first three layouts promote the Scottish “bump-and-run”

Macdonald’s ideas, but we didn’t just want to build replicas of his fa-

game—in which shots are played strategically under the wind—Doak

mous holes,” says Doak. “That would have been boring to us, and

says Old Macdonald will encourage it even more. Some downwind holes have greens that slope from front to back, rendering an aerial

Now that’s a green: Above, it’s hard to tell where the fairway ends and the massive, contoured green begins on Old Macdonald Hole #14.

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SPRING

approach far riskier than one that scuttles along the ground. Doak estimates that at most only one in five golfers who play Old

SUMMER 2009

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Old Macdonald, the

The new clubhouse at Pacific Dunes

course, is an homage to

shines like a beacon in the gloaming.

Charles Blair Macdonald, the father of American golf architecture.

Ken Nice, resort superintendent, and Jim Urbina, architect (with Tom Doak) of Old Macdonald, show the scale of misery in Hell Bunker on Old Macdonald Hole #6. This hole is dubbed “Long,” and a spell in Hell can make it feel even longer.

Macdonald will have heard of the man who inspired it. Most visitors to

Bandon, unlike with so many other American golf resorts, it is almost

Bandon Dunes come from the West Coast, and the majority of Macdon-

sacrilege to talk about the off-course amenities. A mantra of Keiser’s

ald’s courses are private clubs in the East. The resort plans to produce a

from the beginning still holds: It’s all about the golf.

booklet explaining the ideas behind each hole. George Bahto, a Macdonald biographer who is consulting on the course design, predicts the experience of playing Old Macdonald will pique golfers’ interest in course architecture. “A lot of them will like it and they won’t know why,” Bahto says. “They’re going to want to know what Macdonald was all about.” Just as the golf at Bandon Dunes has expanded in the ten years

BANDON DUNES GOLF RESORT 57744 Round Lake Drive, Bandon, Oregon. Contact: 888-345-6008, bandondunesgolf.com.

PLAYING B a n d o n D u n e s | Architect: David McLay Kidd, 1999. Yardage: 6,732. Par: 72. Slope: 143.

since the resort opened, so, too, have the accommodations. The shin-

B a n d o n Tr a i l s | Architects: Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw, 2005. Yardage: 6,765. Par: 71.

gled two-story lodge remains a popular option (singles during the peak

Slope: 132.

season, May through October, from $200; four-bedroom suites, from

P a c i f i c D u n e s | Architect: Tom Doak, 2001. Yardage: 6,633. Par: 71. Slope: 129.

$1,300), but guests can now also choose from four other options. The

Greens Fees on all three courses: $220 during peak season (May through October).

most lavish are cottages for foursomes at the Grove ($1,800): they

Replay rate: $110.

offer four bedrooms, each with a private bath, plus a parlor with a fire-

Coming Soon:

place, and a patio. There’s also a selection of restaurants and bars, not

O l d M a c d o n a l d | Architects: Tom Doak and Jim Urbina. Yardage, Par, Slope: to be deter-

to mention a fitness center where after walking eighteen or thirty-six

mined. Ten-hole preview rounds beginning April 1, 2009; entire course to open June 2010.

in the elements you can soak in a Jacuzzi or get a massage. But with GETTING THERE P A U L R O G E R S , a contributing editor at Travel + Leisure Golf, has written

Commercial flights are available from Portland, Ore., and San Francisco to Southwest Oregon

extensively about the game.

Regional Airport, 25 miles from Bandon. The resort is a five-hour drive from Portland.

SPRING

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139

3/19/09 7:19:20 PM


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{ malt }

|

BY M A R K D O W D E N

Haiku in a bottle Yamazaki 18-year-old is a COMPLEX WHISKY from Japan that will WOW ANY SCOTCH LOVER Most details of the film Lost in Translation are lost

boutique owner given to bellowing at customers, “If

in my memory, obscured by the lovely Scarlett

it’s not Scottish, it’s crap!”

Johannson and her powerful chemistry with an

Not so. Japan makes world-class whisky,

aging Bill Murray. But I do remember why Murray’s

whose only fundamental difference from Scotch is

character, a burned-out actor, found himself in

that it is not distilled and aged in Scotland.

Tokyo: He was filming a whisky commercial in

The man who translated the distiller’s craft

which he intoned, “For relaxing times, make it

from Caledonia to Asia was Masataka Taketsuru. As

Suntory time.”

a chemistry student at the University of Glasgow in

The Japanese love whisky, and Suntory is the

1918, he became so fascinated by whisky that he

country’s leading producer. The beverage giant

roved from distillery to distillery, offering to serve

has been distilling malted barley for nearly

as an apprentice. Distillers were receptive, and

a century, although most Westerners

Taketsuru spent several happy years learning, imbibing and taking copious notes. In 1921 he returned

would be appalled at the very concept.

to Japan with a crammed notebook and a Scottish

I’m reminded of a line by another

wife. Soon Taketsuru crossed paths with Shinjiro

Saturday Night Live alumnus, Mike

Torii, founder of Suntory, and the two set out to

Myers, who played an irascible Scots

make the true usquebaugh.

CONTINUED...

p ap

or

o

P

A

N

•S

don’t know it and many Scotch drinkers

J

A

S E

Ya m

aza

ers have never heard of. Full-bodied and delicious,

N

O

R

Akita

J A PA N

ki D istille

Hiroshim

Yamazaki is the world-class whisky most Western-

O

A

F

TOKYO ry

• •O K y o t o

a

T

sa

H

P

A

C

ka

I C I F

N E A O C

it’s the 10th best-selling single malt on the planet, thanks to its popularity in Japan.

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SPRING

BOYD.malt.indd 142

SUMMER 2009

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Nestled in a forest, the distillery was located off the beaten path by founder Shinjiro Torii (right), who chose the site for its pure springs. The wort is still fermented in Douglas fir wash-backs (lower right). A photo from the 1920s shows the original staff. Today’s blenders (lower left) taste 200 to 300 samples of Yamazaki per day.

They followed the lead of Senno Rikyu, father of the Japanese

mizunara oak, grown, milled and made into butts by Suntory on the

tea ceremony, whose 16th century quest for the purest spring water

northern island of Hokkaido. Mizunara gives the whisky a subtle Asian

led him to Yamazaki, a pristine valley just southwest of Kyoto. The

spiciness that has been compared to incense.

valley marks the confluence of three rivers, the Katsura, Uji and Kizu, whose varied temperatures create a near-constant layer of fog, not

Consider the permutations for aging Yamazaki in wood: three kinds of oak, different sizes of cask, varying degrees of char applied to

unlike a Highland mist. Pure water and a cool, humid climate—not to

the interiors, the choice of new-fill versus second-fill. … It’s no wonder

mention the presence of an ancient Shinto shrine—made Yamazaki an

that in keeping tabs on the aging spirit and deciding which casks to

auspicious location for Suntory’s enterprise.

draw from in vatting Yamazaki single malt, the lucky resident blenders

The distillery, the first outside of Scotland to use copper pot stills,

taste 200 to 300 samples every day.

opened in 1923. According to lore, locals theorized that a ravenous

This kind of fanatical care has paid off handsomely. The two

monster lived in the building because great quantities of barley en-

expressions of Yamazaki available in the U.S., the 12-year-old and the

tered the “factory,” but no product ever came out. Not until six years

18-year-old, are both first-rate. Recently I tasted the 18-year-old, which

later, that is, when the first aged spirit was ready for market.

won, among other awards, double gold at the 2008 World Spirits Com-

Today Yamazaki, as both the distillery and its product are known, still follows the rigorous process of making malt whisky as taught by Scots masters, and then adds a few tweaks of its own. Most notably,

petition in San Francisco. Smooth and highly complex, this malt displays balanced fruit, spiciness and a just hint of smoke, with a long, dry finish. Many Japanese drink their whisky “mizuwari,” meaning mixed with

Yamazaki has upped the ante on barrel aging. Where many producers

water and ice in a highball glass. This dilute preparation goes well with

of Scotch whisky have sought novel expressions by aging the spirit in

sushi, but it would be a waste of Yamazaki. Try the 18-year-old with just a

two woods, Yamazaki has gone hogshead wild by using three kinds of

few drops of water, and see if it doesn’t stand up to the best of Scotland.

oak and a bewildering variety of casks. In common with Scotch, much Japanese whisky is aged in bourbon barrels, which by definition are made from charred American white oak. These barrels add dry flavors, vanilla and sometimes a hint of coconut to the whisky. In addition, like Scotch, Yamazaki is aged in Spanish oak butts. Some are ex-sherry casks and some are newly made by Suntory. Spanish oak imparts fruit flavors and sometimes a suggestion of chocolate and caramel. And then there is Japanese

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TASTING NOTES YAMAZAKI 18-YEAR-OLD C O L O R | Bright copper-gold N O S E | Woody—an old cedar closet in summer, a mossy oak log. Anise, turpentine, chocolate-covered cherries, vanilla. PA L AT E | Thick and creamy. Mocha butter cream. Dry sherry, rum raisin ice cream, grapefruit. Orange juice, spice, honey-roasted nuts.

M A R K D O W D E N was educated at the University of St. Andrews,

F I N I S H | Cedar-like and dry. Mixed fruits, pepper and wood smoke.

where he learned about pot stills and pot bunkers.

PRICE | $100 to $120

SPRING

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SUMMER 2009

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{ jewelry & watches }

Govberg Presents

ESTATE BUYING

101

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/

What’s the best way to get fair value for unwanted jewelry and watches?

IF YOU’RE LIKE MOST readers of this

can expect a confidential and relaxing ex-

magazine, you have hundreds or thou-

perience. “The decision to sell can be very

sands of dollars stashed away in old

emotional,” notes Tripoli. “Often it comes

chests, in closets and under beds … and

on the heels of an unfortunate circum-

you may not even know it. We’re talking

stance, such as divorce, a death in the fam-

about your unwanted jewelry, watches,

ily or a layoff.” That’s why Govberg treats

coins and other collectibles. The pieces

each client with sensitivity and impartiality.

are unwanted in the sense that you’re

For your convenience, Govberg

not wearing them and enjoying them.

Jewelers Estate Buyers is also available

They may or may not have sentimental

to meet in your home or office. Whether

value, but they definitely have cash val-

onsite or in-store, appointments range

ue. Should you sell them?

from 30 minutes to a few hours, depend-

The prices of fine metals and pre-

ing on the number of items in the lot. All

cious stones soared in 2008 and contin-

clients receive a check at the conclusion

ue to climb, making this an unprecedent-

of their visit should they choose to sell.

ed market for selling, say estate jewelry

How much can you expect to receive

experts Jackie Tripoli and Irv Govberg of

in a transaction? Many clients anticipate

Govberg Jewelers, who have more than

their items to be worth exactly what they

70 years of combined experience. Sell-

bought them for or more, says Govberg,

ing these items is an easy money maker

but there are myriad factors that deter-

in this unsteady economic climate, but

mine whether that’s the case—how long

choose the buyer with care.

ago an item was purchased, the purity of

“As values rise for precious metals

the metal, and trends in the collectible

and diamonds, we see many unqualified

value of particular timepieces, to name

parties working competitively to get your

just a few. In many cases the current re-

estate buying business,” says Tripoli, a 15-

sale value is in fact less than the retail

year Govberg veteran. “Companies will ad-

purchase price. The only way to know is

vertise to ‘Send us your gold,’ and you’ll see

through an appraisal.

a man holding up $100 bills. It’s very entic-

Having Govberg Jewelers Estate

ing, but these companies usually aren’t the

Buyers evaluate your unwanted jewelry,

best equipped to assess value, and some

watches and collectibles is, of course, a

may be downright unscrupulous.”

no-obligation process. You can walk away

Consider the advantage of working

with a check or stash items away for an-

Irv Govberg, the second-generation owner of Govberg Jewelers and

with Govberg Jewelers, a family-owned

other 10 or 20 years. You may choose

president of Govberg Jewelers Estate Buyers; Jackie Tripoli, Govberg

and family-operated business that has

to sell certain items and keep others.

Jewelers’ veteran estate buyer; three of the quality timepieces that

served Main Line and Center City resi-

Whether or not you convert goods to

Govberg Jewelers Estate Buyers has recently purchased; Irv Govberg

dents for more than 85 years. When you

cash, you’ll definitely walk away with

inspects a diamond from an estate sale.

visit Govberg to discuss estate buying, you

added knowledge.

SPRING

SUMMER 2009

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{ finishing touch }

TRUSSINI : The Sartorial Essence of Italy MEN WHO FAVOR TRUSSINI can thank Kent Gushner, men’s clothing buyer for Boyds, for

bringing the brand to the U.S. On one of his regular global scouting trips, Kent forged a relationship with one of Italy’s best family-owned and -operated clothing manufacturers. Boyds introduced Philadelphians to Trussini in 1998, and it quickly became a customer favorite. Today the brand is available exclusively at more than 75 of the best men’s specialty stores, including Mario’s in Seattle and Portland, Syd Jerome in Chicago and Oak Hall in Memphis. Trussini is thoroughly Italian. The fabrics come from the same mills as Brioni, Canali, Loro Piana and Ermenegildo Zegna. The Trussini factory in north-central Italy employs about 100 skilled designers, tailors, seamstresses and artisans. It’s a modern facility, allowing for precision and consistency in pattern making, cutting, assembly and finishing. Suit jackets and sportcoats feature full canvas lining and hand stitching throughout. The Trussini style is classic, with a European twist. It incorporates a softer shoulder and higher armhole, with mild waist suppression, making the silhouette fluid and very up to date. This makes for the most flattering look and takes comfort to another level. As Hardy Amies, the English couturier, said, “A man should look as if he bought his clothes with intelligence, put them on with care and then has forgotten all about them.” The cut of a Trussini jacket, combined with its soft hand-tailoring and canvassed construction, fill the bill: The garment is light and comfortable to wear, drapes naturally on the body for an effortless appearance, and possesses an elegant, enduring style. For all these advantages, Trussini is well-priced; it would cost 30% to 50% more if it were made by a bigger design name. Says Kent Gushner, “Season after season, our customers keep coming back to it. The fabrics are great, the quality is exceptional and the value is unsurpassed.” In addition to suits, sportcoats and pants, the Trussini Collection features dress shirts, ties, overcoats and tuxedos in a broad range of fabrics and models. Plus, beyond ready-to-wear, Trussini is available in made-to-measure, making one’s choices endless. Boyds houses the largest selection of Trussini in North America. Why not drop by the store to explore your options? A Trussini suit jacket (left) shows the fluid drape, high armhole and slight waist suppression that characterize the brand’s enduring style. Below, scenes from the sartoria in north-central Italy where all Trussini garments are made.

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Boyds: Spring 2009 issue