May 2014: The Sustainability Issue

VOLUME 46 | ISSUE 8 | MAY 2014

THE SUSTAINABILITY ISSUE

MASTHEAD Fernanda DeSouza Editor–in–Chief

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FIT

Letter from the Editor

Dianna Mazzone Hermina Sobhraj Deputy Editors Megan Venere Executive Editor Dara Kenigsberg Christina Macaluso Senior Editors Dara Kenigsberg Managing Editor Britt Bivens Copy Editor Dana Heyward Treasurer

W27Newspaper.com Mollie Yarsike Community Manager Zach Rosenbaum Online Editor

ADVERTISING Lilian Minchala Advertising Manager

Art Kevin Braine Art Director Kelly Millington Senior Designer Illustrator Jessica Farkas Becca Lader Alexander Papakonstadinou Photographers Chloe Dewberry Fashion Editor

Contributors Yesica Balderrama Rachel Basel Britt Bivens Molly Clarke Amber Harkonen Ileana de Hoyos Sarah Fielding Dana Heyward Ciara McManus Marissa Mule Desiree Perez Caitlin Powell Zach Rosenbaum Venus Wong

“10 cents extra for a bag,” a woman told me. I was buying fruit in the Mission District in San Francisco with a friend.

A little dumbfounded, I paid (what I thought was silly) the 10 cents. A year later while picking up flu remedies at a San Francisco pharmacy, I faced the woman behind the register and almost kicked myself–I forgot a bag. How could I forget a bag. I felt like I killed an entire forest. I walked out, shamefully, paper bag in hand.

May is typically the Graduation Issue but after my last trip out West, I decided to steer clear of the much anticipated stage of a graduating senior’s life and focus on something bigger. Besides, don’t we need an earth to graduate on? Har–har.

Sustainability has been a topic of discussion for years, yet time and again, we hear news of worsening climate change. It’s sickening to read headlines like the destruction to wildlife and shortage of water supplies across the world, among other things. And we’re sometimes naive towards these issues, living in the epicenter of the world where flipping a switch and running water is readily available.

Hurricane Sandy was a definite wake up call for myself and to the city of New York. You may be one of eight million people, but any contribution, small or big, is impactful.

We’re giving sustainability a voice and reminding readers that it’s a

topic of discussion we cannot let fizzle away, as it is the determinant of our future.

I was petrified to step up as successor for this newspaper but after four years of hard work, I welcomed the opportunity to harness the foundations laid by editors before me and evolve W27 as my own interpretation. Without my hard–working, detail– oriented art director, Kevin Braine, to monthly contributors and the generous publisher Joseph Torregrossa, to the guidance and mentorship of our advisor, John Simone, W27 would be nothing. I’m confident next year’s editor–in– chief, Hermina Sobhraj, will continue the history of W27 as FIT’s leading publication and add her own vision to its pages.

I asked my friend and graduating photography student Rebecca Lader to shoot my last editor photo. She is one of hundreds of seniors who have left their mark on FIT, from the designers who competed and partook in the annual Future of Fashion runway show to the business students who have presented professional marketing portfolios.

Talent, ambition and hungry for more–this is the definition of FIT and I couldn’t have asked for a better environment to grow as an individual.

John Simone Editorial Faculty Advisor Albert Romano Advertising Faculty Advisor

SPONSORED BY FIT STUDENT ASSOCIATION ON THE COVER: W27 is PRINTED ON RECYCLED PAPER. PLEASE RECYCLE YOUR COPY AFTER READING.

Stylist Chloe Dewberry kept it simple and sustainable, outfitting model Talia Arochas in a crop top by student designer, Grace Lee, as shot by Alexander Papakonstadinou.

What my picture fails to capture are the countless hours, emails, typos, articles, meetings and the handful of anxiety attacks I experienced in the process of creating each issue. What it achieves to portray is my sheer satisfaction, relief and jubilation. Because this entire year, acting as editor–in–chief, has come down to this final issue.

My readers, my audience, my supporters– you, FIT. Thank you for sharing in this experience with me and pushing me to strive to be a better editor and person. I’m grateful for this opportunity and it’s been my pleasure serving as your editor–in–chief.

Fernanda, signing off!

GODSPEED!

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CONTENTS On The Block 4 4 5 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 10 10

Tim Gunn Makes it Work Athletes Put Sports on the Map at FIT Ralph Lauren Alumni Networking Event Aca–scuse Me? FIT Skyliners Perform their Seasonal Show “Polaroid Series” Showcase Serious Dramatic Talent at FIT FIT Implements Sustainability Initiatives FIT’s First Foray into the Clinton Global Initiative University Regifting Alumni’s Big Ideas FIT Moves Sustainable Foot Forward Faculty Spotlight–Professor Cantrell

Future Mode: On Saying Goodbye Bittersweet Adieus

Dear Industry 12 12 13 13 14 16 16 17

Sumzine x Helpsy Host Fashion Revolution Day Event Modern Farmer Worm On Little by Little Equals A Lot Fashion Editorial: Summer, Simplified New York Times Sustainability Conference Career N Coffee: Brooke Blashill Beauty Buzz: What Does Green Really Mean

Feature 18 19 20 21

Modern Sustainability: Thinking Outside the Box Dumpster Diving, The Freeganist Way Is Bangladesh Still on Fire?

Are Organic Foods Outgrowing Their Ideals?

Haute Culture 22 23 23 24 24 25

Hot to Trot: Sriracha’s Factory Faces Some Heat Guatemala, The Land of Eternal Spring Book Review: The Responsible Company Film Review: The Tribeca Film Festival’s Greatest Hits Theater Review: The Cripple of Inishmaan Month in Review

Graphic design junior show haft auditorium may 15th 5:30–9:00 p.m.

FIT Speaks 26 27

Is Digital Really Greener?

Outside Your Borough: DUMBO

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Style on 27

Get Involved with W27 Art W27 is looking for junior designers to contribute to the paper starting with the September 2014 issue.

Interested students can contact Art Director Kelly Millington by emailing w27art@gmail.com.

lETTER FROM THE art Director Working as art director of W27 has been an interesting task. The hours have been long and stressful, but rewarding. Sometimes I dreaded getting myself to FIT Saturday mornings to work all weekend.

Even though it’s only one weekend per month, the whole process can be exhausting. Nonetheless, I feel fortunate to have had this experience and am proud of what I accomplished here.

Art directing for this publication has taught me a lot about teamwork, leadership and deadlines.

The W27 team really works together to create something we can all be proud of. Sometimes I

can’t believe how we pull this off. I’d like to thank Kelly Millington and Courtney Wall for their hard work and dedication to this paper. They have helped me with almost every issue this year and I am very grateful for that. Most of all, I need to thank my editor–in–chief, Fernanda DeSouza. We’ve had easy edit weekends and some not–so–easy edit weekends (like that night we stayed until 2 a.m.), but she’s never lost faith in this newspaper.

She has been an amazing person to work side by side with for the year. I was nervous about taking over the art direction in September but I think we’ve rallied together to make a great newspaper.

I hope I helped provide a pleasing visual aesthetic to the readers of W27.

I am not one for sentimentality, but I will miss this newspaper, no matter how much stress it gave me. I am glad I got to be a part of FIT’s history here at W27. I’ll take this experience with me and hope it positively influences my career as a designer.

Kelly Millington will be stepping up as art director next year and I’m confident she will continue to design a great paper. If anyone is interested in joining W27’s art team please contact her at w27art@gmail.com.

Goodbye W27, it’s been quite an adventure.

ON THE BLOCK Tim Gunn Makes It Work

by Desiree Perez

Admirers of Tim Gunn lined up an hour before the Dean’s Forum event at Haft Auditorium, in anticipation of getting a close–up glimpse of the star.

Tim Gunn approached the audience with an air of charm, in a navy striped suit and a welcoming smile. He began the forum by talking about his inspiration behind his book, “Tim Gunn’s Fashion Bible,” which everyone received a free copy of thanks to the Student Faculty.

Gunn’s fascination with fashion history inspired him to write his own fashion bible, recounting fashion’s history with his opinions and guidance on the side.

With its quick chapters on clothing categories such as underwear, coats and handbags, Gunn felt it was an antidote to prior lengthy, fashion history textbooks.

“I wanted to make the book accessible

and relatable. I don’t go on for volumes about this evolution by years. Who cares?” explained Gunn as the audience chuckled.

He went on to reveal some surprising personal details about his secondary school years, such as being antisocial, disliking sports and an agonizing stutter that finally left him at the age of 19.

He found his true direction and a stronger sense of self while studying sculpture at Corcoran College of Art and Design.

“The answer to whatever problem it is you’re solving, isn’t in the back of the book. The answer’s in you,” said Gunn.

Gunn also described his brief quarrel with Vogue’s Editor–In–Chief Anna Wintour. After attending a fashion show, he witnessed Wintour being carried down five flights of stairs. When Gunn’s

controversial post–fashion show observation leaked to the press, Conde Nast contacted Gunn insisting that Wintour demanded a retraction. Despite sending flowers and apologizing to Wintour, Gunn did not regret any of it. “A retraction would imply that it’s not true… but it’s perfectly true,” said Gunn.

After acquiring an influential position on “Project Runway,” starring in his own show “Under the Gunn” and writing a handful of books, Gunn expressed gratitude and contentment. “I’ve been blessed with so many incredible opportunities that to even think about wishing about something else would be such hubris that I would hope I’d be struck by lightning,” he said. “Every industry is tough but if you have a drive and a passion to do this, that will sustain you.”

Athletes Put Sports on the Map at FIT

by Ileana De Hoyos

FIT’s Athletic Awards ceremony was held Tuesday, April 29 to recognize and celebrate the achievements of our student athletes. The room filled up with our runners, dancers, soccer, volleyball, table tennis and tennis players along with their coaches and assistant coaches.

Coaches announced their team’s winners proudly, adding stories of defeat, triumph and perseverance they faced throughout the season. This year’s athletic performance was one to be remembered, with seven All Americans and Women’s Tennis finishing 2nd in the country in the NJCAA Division III. “They are

remarkable young people and athletes and represent FIT with dignity and excellent sportsmanship,” said Coach Lynn Cabot– Puro of her tennis team.

Member of the Division III tennis team, Keerthana “Kiki” Sivaramakrishnan received the National Coaches’ Sportsmanship Award. This is the first time that an FIT student athlete has been granted this prestigious honor. The two–time MVP and sixth–singles player, Ashley Yakaboski, was recognized and awarded the National Champion Ring, having lost only one match in two years.

She was also named All–American and All Region player.

The women’s volleyball team was very successful this year, especially Megan Houff. She was awarded first team All– American, player of the year Region XV, Player of the Year and FIT Student Athlete of the Year. The team itself was awarded All–Tournament Team in the Division III after placing 7th in the nation, a first in FIT history. “I’m very happy and excited, I’ve been playing volleyball since I was in the 7th grade and it’s a nice way to end my career,” said Houff.

This was the last year for women’s volleyball coach, Carrie Thomas, who has coached FIT’s team for two years. “My team was awesome this year I’m extremely sad about leaving, but my heart is here and always will be. Two years feels like such a long time, we’ve had so many memories and huge accomplishments and so it really feels like a lifetime. It’s something I’ll remember forever,” said Thomas. Women’s Soccer is another team to be reckoned with. Hayley Reid won Player of the Year and seven other players won All–Region.

2013–2014 SUNY Chancellor Scholar Athlete Award Winners

2013–2014 NJCAA All Americans

2013–2014 Region XV Player of The Year

Team Highlights

Lindsey Schroth, Cross Country

Megan Houff, Volleyball, First Team

Kayla Bohnhorst, Tennis

*4 FIT Teams finished in the top 10 in the country

Maria Paolillo, Half Marathon

Emily Mance, Swimming, First Team

Megan Houff, Volleyball

Robyn Arteaga, Tennis

Robyn Arteaga, Tennis, Second Team

Hayley Reid, Soccer

Emily Mance, Swimming

Kiki Sivaramakrishnan, Tennis, Second Team

*Women's Cross Country finished 5th in the country

Ashley Yakaboski, Tennis, Second Team

*Women's Volleyball finished 7th in the country

*Women's Tennis finished 2nd in the country for the 2nd year in a row.

Hayley Reid, Soccer, Second Team Lindsey Schroth, Cross Country, HM

*Women's Half Marathon finished 10th in the country

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Ralph Lauren Alumni Networking Event

by Kaylee Denmead

Stepping off the elevator on the ninth floor at 650 Madison Ave, it’s as if you suddenly entered a new world far away from the busy streets of Manhattan.

Wood paneled walls, tan carpeting and chestnut leather chairs welcomed a group of men and women on April 30, who had two things in common: Ralph Lauren and FIT. An impressive 350 of the Fashion Institute of Technology’s alumni work for the iconic American brand in their New York offices and about 60 of these employees gathered for the event, co– hosted FIT’s Alumni Affair program.

After Herfel’s introductory speech, we were given a small tour of the showrooms at Ralph Lauren. Purple Label, Polo and Black Label each embody a different style of the Ralph Lauren brand with the different aspects of each sub–brand apparent.

In the Black Label showroom, comfortably surrounded by dark denim, leather outerwear and a vintage motorcycle, we heard from President Joyce Brown and watched a short film about what FIT means to students, teachers and alums. Joe Berean, the vice president and creative director of wholesale e–commerce, also spoke to the audience.

Joy Herfel, the president and chief operating officer at Ralph Lauren reminded attendees that it is “wildly important to keep connections strong between key organizations in the industry and FIT.”

Beginning his fashion career as an intern at Seventeen magazine while studying at FIT, he worked at several publications before landing his role at Ralph Lauren.

Amanda Miller, the vice president for talent acquisition, stated that FIT and Ralph Lauren are “two amazing institutions coming together.” Ralph Lauren feels passionate about their employees from FIT– based on their genuine desire to learn, their incredible work ethic and skills to propel them into the field. Thanks to Alumni Affairs and companies such as Ralph Lauren, it seems that more and more FIT students will have the opportunity to not only be classmates, but co–workers in the industry as well.

Photo courtesy of faulknerstudions.com

Aca–scuse Me? FIT Skyliners Perform Their Seasonal Show

“Polaroid Stories” Showcases Serious Dramatic Talent at FIT

by Rachel Basel

by Rachel Basel

Watch out “Pitch Perfect” fans, there’s a rising acapella group to look out for and it’s none other than the FIT Skyliners. Founded by the talented Krista Pershinsky last semester, the group performed this semester’s show on Saturday March 26. The talent–driven performance was an unique experience, with an impressive turnout.

Since its creation, the FIT Skyliners have had two campus performances and have grown to include 22 members. This season’s show included songs like “Counting Stars” by One Republic and “Titanium”

by Sia. They also performed a few classics with their “Let It Be/Hey Jude” mash–up and had guest performances by Blackout Acapella and The Manhattones. The show provided a variety of singing styles, song arrangements and entertainment for anyone with a passion for music.

Pershinsky explained that things didn’t always run smoothly, but something about the devotion of the group made it all worthwhile. “The stress and the worry as to how our performance would (pan out) built up until an hour before the show, but when we went through our final run– through, I knew something just clicked, and in the end everything came together.

It was perfect!” she said.

Traditionally, FIT has not been known for its prominent theater and performing arts, but this season’s show, “Polaroid Stories,” proved otherwise. The play delves into the lives of the homeless youth and their explorations with sex, drugs, violence and extreme turmoil. The poetic depictions of their lives mirrored characters in Greek mythology, creating another layer of unique artistic expression.

complex to me and the most messed up character...I had to take myself to a really dark place to get the essence of him,” he explained. Bonilla credits his cast mates for always helping to get him back out of it. The play ended with the sense of how difficult it is for people to escape out of these situations. Eurydice served as the only character able to free herself from a life of hostility and destruction.

With all the hard working business and design activity on campus, it’s hard to come across an outlet for musical expression for students, but the FIT Skyliners is changing that. And acapella in general presents an inspiring fusion between traditional singing styles and exciting, new arrangements. “It’s a great club to express yourself through music,” said Pershinsky.

That said, anyone with a passion for singing should get involved and build on the group’s already notable talent.

The set consisted mainly of spray painted scaffolding and wooden platforms, creating a space for the actors to be raw and uninhibited. They shared stories of their dark pasts, feelings of abandonment and abusive relationships, which continued throughout the story. The style of the show is unique because of its metaphorical attributes. Conversations were had without direct interaction and the characters often echoed one another.

In regards to the camaraderie of the cast, Mary Perks, who played Philomel, said, “It kind of shows you that when people come together as a team [the outcome] can be pretty awesome.” “Polaroid Stories” was undoubtedly a challenge for FIT’s Theatre Ensemble, but the cast, crew, director and president, Christopher Wallace, rose to the occasion. “For people to sit down for two hours and watch something dark…It shows that we have acting and directing talent [at FIT]. It shows the worth of FIT theatre,” said Wallace. He believes that because of this performance, bigger and better things are to come for the club and that “FIT can be about performing arts.”

Cast member Alejandro Bonilla talked about his experience playing the character of Speedracer. “He was the most

ON THE BLOCK

FIT

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FIT Implements Sustainability Initiatives

by Caitlin Powell

Fast fashion, the phenomenon that moves clothing through the fashion cycle quickly to appease rapidly changing trends, has ravaged the environment. Factors like pollution from factories, toxic effluent dumped into rivers and copious amounts of waste that ends in landfills, all contribute to what many experts in the field would consider to be an environmental disaster.

Looking to address this sad plight, FIT has incorporated sustainability into the Our Legacy, Our Future: Beyond 2020 Strategic Plan Mission Statement, which serves as recognition that environmental consciousness deserves a place on this campus as an inherent value, not as an afterthought. There are many people and groups, such as the Sustainability Council and Faculty Senate Committee on Sustainability (among others) who are working tirelessly to insure that

This year’s conference boasted a record high attendance of 414 attendees. The conference featured displays from student organizations involved in FIT’s Some of these projects are curriculum– sustainability efforts such as the Textile based, which is important in educating Surface Design Department, the Textile successive generations about climate Development and Marketing Department, change, while others are project or event based, which is a great way to get students the Fashion Design Department and many more. Featured speakers included actively involved. A recently added minor President Joyce Brown; Laurie Kerr, direcin ethics and sustainability will be availtor of the City Energy Project, Urban able to students in Fall 2014. A masProgram and Natural Resources Defense ter’s degree program in environmental Council; Michele Neptune of the LEED interiors is also available and focuses on Certification designing program responsiand project bly. The manager Think Big of Vidaris Challenge, Inc.; Tom which fosLaForge, tered the global Rooftop director of Natural Human and Dye Cultural Garden, Insights at serves Coca–Cola as an Company; incubator Lewis for turnPhoto courtesy of Ivana Cepeda/Sustainability Conference Perkins, ing good senior vice president of the Cradle to ideas into meaningful action. FIT is also Cradle Products Innovation Institute and participating in its inaugural No Impact the keynote speaker, Robert F Kennedy Week (Sept. 14–20). This is part of an Jr., environmental activist and attorney. international environmental movement that aims to develop personal behaviors The Great Hall was packed during Robert and cultivate public service in ways that promote global health. NIW will consist of F Kennedy Jr.’s captivating discussion on renewable energy and environmental seven days of creative events in hopes of sustainability in America. Each speaker bringing the FIT community together to brought forth a unique presentation on raise awareness about the negative impact humans have on the planet and how those how they are facing environmental issues can reduced. Of course, this year’s Eighth of today, from more sustainable building codes to healthier organic and vegetarAnnual Sustainable Business and Design ian cafeteria options as well as offering Conference: Measuring Our Impact, held suggestions on how we as students can on April 8, deserves special recognition help in this journey to a more sustainable for its remarkable success. comprehensive sustainability initiatives are created, promoted and expanded.

planet. After the presentations, attendees were encouraged to attend breakout sessions where they could learn how FIT converted to a green campus, tour a digital print and mail facility, view photographs and discuss environmental problems in our oceans, tour FIT’s Green Roof, discuss how students can create their own

sustainable niche in preparation for life after graduating from FIT and listen to the 2013 Sustainability Grant recipients discuss their projects.

The best way to ensure that these initiatives are meaningful and successful is for students to be actively involved. Students are the ones that can and will make the difference, and it’s extremely encouraging to see FIT students continue to gain an interest in environmental sustainability on campus.

FIT’s First Foray to the Clinton Global Initiative University

by Amber Harkonen

For the first time in FIT’s history, a student team was invited to partake in the Clinton Global Initiative University, a meeting of the next generation of global leaders. Launched in 2007, CGIU was modeled after the Clinton Global Initiative started by President Bill Clinton in 2005. From March 21 to March 23, Meghan Navoy, Caitlin Powell and myself, with our FIT mentor Suzanne McGillicuddy, travelled to Phoenix, Arizona to be inspired by the plenary sessions, skill sessions and working sessions taking place throughout the weekend and to discuss our project, FIT’s Rooftop Natural Dye Garden.

The most inspiring session moderated by former president Bill Clinton was titled

“The Age Of Participation” and featured Manal Al–Sharif, an IT consultant, columnist and blogger; Shree Bose, a student from Harvard University, United States Senator from Arizona, John McCain and Jimmy Wales, Wikipedia’s co–founder.

One of the main takeaways from this session was that there is a dire need for more women in STEM or as Shree Bose aptly put it, “We need more lady nerds.” On Saturday, we split ways to take advantage of the many working and skills sessions available to us which included team building, creating media buzz on environmental issues, monitoring and evaluating projects and transforming waste (a new generation of ecological design). That evening, we were invited (along with other hand–picked attendees), to present our

project at the CGIU exchange and dinner.

This provided a wonderful opportunity to share our vision with other like–minded individuals and develop our ideas for the garden further.

The weekend closed with a “Day Of Action” where we worked shoulder to shoulder with President Clinton and the other CGIU participants to transform a previously vacant 15–acre lot in downtown Phoenix, into a vibrant and sustainable public garden–a fitting end to a truly remarkable event.

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Regifting Alumni’s Big Ideas

by Molly Clarke

Imagine leaving your legacy at FIT for years after graduating. Thanks to student body President David Hamilton, the Alumni office of the FIT foundation, the Board of Trustees and Student Association VP of Alumni Affairs, Brian Williams, this is now possible. 2014 is the first year of a new tradition called the FIT Class Gift, whose goal is to take graduating students’ big ideas, put them outside the classroom and help to change the world.

The 2014 Class Gift is supporting the Think Big Challenge, a think tank and idea incubator. This year, FIT students were a part of the Think Big Challenge, chosen to attend the Clinton Global Initiative University to help create ways to renew our urban environment. Three Textile Development Marketing students, Caitlin Powell, Amber Harkonen and Meghan Navoy created FIT’s first sustainable rooftop garden.The dye garden was chosen out of 695 submissions to compete in CGIU Commitments Challenge.

The rooftop garden was also a key submission mentioned at the CGIU Exchange and Dinner that was held during the Clinton Global Initiative.

Harmful dyes and dyeing processes are being used throughout multiple industries, the fashion industry being one of the largest users. The chemical polutants released from these harmful dyeing techniques are direct contributors to climate change. The dye garden will incorporate the current Green Roofs at FIT and utilize rain and decomposition as well. The rooftop garden is on schedule to be planted in the spring of 2014,

with the help of professional natural dyers and experienced builders. The goal of the natural dye garden is to help bring safe dyeing practices back into our industry and to focus on using natural dyes. Once the garden is planted, it will continue to teach future students about the benefits of natural dyes and sustainability. Planting the garden will also reduce FIT’s carbon footprint on our environment as well as put FIT ahead in moving away from harmful dyeing processes.

“Planting the garden will also reduce FIT’s carbon footprint on our environment”

Amber Harko, says of the sustainable garden, “I’m so proud of the administration for working so quickly to install the garden in a matter of short months. Caitlin,

Meghan and I have worked tirelessly to ensure that the dye garden will be up and running before the end of the semester,” she said. “We can reap our first harvest around the time that the fall semester starts, which will give new and returning students a very practical education on the procedures of growing, harvesting and preparing natural dye stuffs, and hopefully get them excited about using these dyes instead.”

FIT encourages the graduating students, from AAS graduates to Masters graduates, to donate to the project. Every donation will help the project grow and become the greatest it can be. Students can donate online at www.fitnyc.edu/IchoseFIT or in person at the Development and Alumni Affairs Office located in the Feldman Building, room C 204. Graduating students can donate $5 and up, and specific denominations result in the student receiving a pin, magnet or a special gift.

FIT Moves Sustainable Foot Forward

by Sarah Fielding

Throughout his 17 years at the Fashion Institute of Technology, Professor Robert Vassalotti has pushed many sustainable programs to be implemented across campus. In 2006, a group of faculty that included Professors Vassalotti, Kopelman, Pliatowicz and many others, came together to discuss ways in which FIT could become a more sustainable campus.

Vassalotti, along with his co–chair Pilatowicz, oversees multiple aspects of the council. These include the website, council communications and meetings, as well as the grants program and the conference and other activities throughout the year. They also maintain member relations, membership being open to students, faculty and staff.

“Sustainable actions are not a trend; they must be a way of life, forever."

Initial meetings in regards to forming a Sustainability Council took place in 2006. In 2007, the first Sustainability Conference occurred and in 2009 the Council was formally established.

One thing Vassalotti is most proud of is the recent change to FIT’s mission statement. The last part now reads, “A premier public institution in New York City, FIT fosters creativity, career focus and a global perspective

and educates its students to embrace inclusiveness, sustainability and a sense of community.” The mention of sustainability is new. Vassalotti hopes this will lead to many changes at the school. For example, he wishes to see FIT purchasing more sustainable items, moving toward better water consumption techniques and reducing the amount of electricity used throughout campus.

Vassalotti brought up waste as another huge problem. He sees how much is thrown out when students leave their dorms at the end of the year, believing FIT should become more involved with recycling that waste. The final project of the year that Vassalotti is working on, that may meet no opposition other than perhaps cost, is a quad on 27th Street. It would bring many more oxygen–producing trees and a friendlier space for students and faculty to utilize.

When asked what the people at FIT can do to be more sustainable, Vassalotti stressed education and communication.

He said that we need to be self–educating by attending Student Council meetings and turning off lights.

“Issues surrounding sustainability begin with our own individual actions: what we do every day, and how we influence those we come into contact with,” he said. “We can make changes and we must initiate changes within our organizations.

Sustainable actions are not a trend; they must be a way of life, forever."

Vassalotti is confident that students are motivated by their concern for the environment. He can see how, even in the past five years, it has become an important issue to all. The campus needs to continue being aware of the world we live in and even simple tasks can make this a better place for all.

ON THE BLOCK

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Faculty Spotlight: Ann Cantrell

by Zach Rosenbaum

Ann Cantrell (or Annie, as many know her) has first hand experience to offer her students. She is the owner of Annie’s Blue Ribbon General Store in Park Slope and has worked for some extremely reputable companies (Brooks Brothers, Coach). Cantrell teaches classes like Sustainability in Fashion Merchandising (FM 326), Small Store Fashion Retailing, (FM 251) and Trend Forecasting for Fashion Retailers (FM 245) at FIT. These courses allow her to help students connect with real–life sustainable companies, with assigned projects that could actually make a difference in the environment. She is a member of FIT’s Sustainability Council and is constantly finding ways to reduce, reuse and recycle. We sat down with Professor Cantrell to talk sustainability, owning a business and the mindset change that could save the earth.

Zach Rosenbaum: What are some of the biggest sustainability issues in the fashion industry right now?

Ann Cantrell: The fashion industry is one of the biggest offenders when it comes to polluting the environment. There has to be a mindset change driven by the consumer. Some of the biggest issues are in the supply chain. In class, we look at what people are earning across the entire world, if they are making a living wage and whether people are getting paid enough to afford to survive, as well as thrive. People who can live comfortably and pay their bills as well as contribute to society can also give more back to their communities, and that is also what sustainability is all about.

We also have to look at these issues from the perspective of design, the materials consumed, the process of creating and sewing the goods and again analyzing the supply chain for ways we can improve our business practices.

As consumers, we can really make a difference. We can challenge these companies that make so much money to be more transparent, show us where they are buying their fabric and producing their goods.

We can demand they treat their workers better as well. In the book “Overdressed:

The Shockingly High Cost of Cheap Fashion” Elizabeth Cline (who recently came to speak at FIT) says that large garment producers might only have to raise prices slightly (by running a bit less profitable) rather than passing on these costs to consumers. We all should be looking deeper into the companies that we’re buying from and making sure that they’re as transparent and as ethical as possible.

ZR: Are there any sustainability initiatives going on at FIT that we might not be aware of?

AC: One of the coolest aspects of our campus are our green roofs, which are a great initiative to help improve our infrastructure and reduce our greenhouse gases. Green roofs double the lifetime of a roof, and absorbs rain, which reduces rainwater runoff. There was a Clinton Global Initiative project done recently by some TDM (textile development marketing) students here where they used plants grown on the Green Roof to make dye– so they made a natural dying facility taking advantage of the garden.

They presented it at the Clinton Global Initiative meeting in Arizona, and were the stars of the show!

We are also excited for No Impact Week, which will be in September. It’ll be a

week–long endeavor where each day we’ll explore a different aspect of how we can cause the least amount of damage to our environment. We will look at food, transportation energy consumption. You can read more about it on the Sustainability Council’s website and learn how to get more involved.

ZR: What can we do as individuals to help reduce waste and sustain the environment?

AC: It’s important to rethink how we normally use things in everyday life.

Obviously, it’s important to recycle, reduce and reuse. My husband, daughter and I live in a one–bedroom apartment, and sometimes, it seems like we need a bigger place. But in reality, we don’t need more things. It’s funny to hear this coming from someone who owns a store, but it’s all about editing and thinking about what will make you happy and satisfied. Also, as I mentioned before, you should always research and look where your clothes are made, where your food is produced (try to eat local and organic) and be an active stakeholder in the world around us.

ZR: And how did you arrive at FIT? AC: A fellow Professor found me on LinkedIn—big points for social

media! My background is in product development, so I started teaching a class in that (FM441). In class, I would share my stories and real world experiences, many which came from my store, and that’s how I began teaching Small Store Fashion Retailing (FM251). I really love it. I went from being an adjunct, to temporary full time, to full time this past August. Did I also mention that I’m getting my MBA in Sustainability?

I’m getting my MBA online from Green Mountain College in Vermont. It’s funny to be on the other side of things now!

ZR: What do students learn about in your Sustainable Merchandising course?

AC: We start the semester off by talking about the mindset change that needs to happen in the world, as we are burning through our natural resources at a rate of one and a half times what we can sustain. We talk about how, as consumers, we can make a difference in the world.

We look into fast fashion retailers and how over time we’ve lost our connection with the people making our clothes. I try to teach the idea of being mindful, of perhaps buying less and investing in better quality things that will last longer.

We look at factories, cotton production, dying processes, fabrics and the history of clothing back to medieval times. Things really have changed. Then we look at the supply chain and analyze how we can be more sustainable—from yarn suppliers, to factories, to fair labor practices—that whole gamut of the production cycle.

We also look at what stores can do from a retail level. We talk about LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification, greenwashing, storytelling and learn green business terms that are transferable to other courses and industries as well. We discuss the triple bottom line, where instead of just being concerned about how much money a company is making, we also take into consideration the planet and people.

We look at a lot of different companies and what they’re doing right, what they are doing wrong and how they can improve. We take a deep dive into Patagonia, including their Common Threads Initiative, where they’ll repair your clothes for you or find them a new home by selling them second hand. As part of their storytelling experience, they run an ad on Black Friday where they say, “Don’t buy this jacket.” It really makes you

Photo courtesy of brooklynheightblog.com

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“you should always research and look where your clothes are made, where your food is produced (try to eat local and organic) and be an active stakeholder in the world around us.” think, but at the same time the company has seen double–digit growth each year.

The second half of the course is spent working on a project and partnering directly with an eco– friendly company.

Last semester we worked with Loomstate, a sustainable apparel company who has been leading the way on many green initiatives. They’re are a part of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition along with Patagonia and many other eco minded companies. This semester we’re working with S’well Water Bottles, who make really fashionable and functional stainless steel water bottles. The students work on problems for the company, do extensive research and then do a presentation to the Executive Board of these companies at the end of the semester. This semester, our class was really lucky, they received water bottles as gifts from S’well in the beginning of the semester. No plastic water bottles in our class!

AC: Some of the vendors that I work with do some great stuff. Alexandra Ferguson makes lovely pillows using reclaimed materials and is expanding her business (she moved her factory to Brooklyn, and it’s been amazing to see her growth since she started on Etsy). Common Good is also based in Brooklyn, they sell natural cleaning products (which are really trending).

On a larger note with regards to fashion, I appreciate what companies such as Levi’s, Puma, Tom’s and Warby Parker are doing.

Warby Parker gives people what they need at a great price, and really challenges the status quo. Do we really need four hundred dollar glasses? A lot of these companies I mentioned are B Corps, which means that they give back to the community as part of their mission.

ZR: How do you find yourself being sustainable when running your business?

AC: Growing up, I spent a lot of time in the country (we drank unpasteurized milk and my first memories were riding on the back of my mom’s bike). My husband says that I grew up “off the grid before there even was a grid.” I feel like some principles that I grew up with carry over into how I run my store. I am a firm believer that you can get more creative when you have less to work with and that belief has served me well.

City living is inherent in making us multi–taskers and helps us accomplish things in different, creative ways. We just try to come up with new ways to approach old situations. I love that I opened and

run my shop without a car. We’re all about Google docs and cloud–based technology at my store. When looking for merchandise, I first take into consideration the aesthetic (people want to like it whether it’s eco–friendly or not), and then I look for the story behind it. I try to have some teachable moments about who makes these products, so around our store we have little notes that say who makes things, why and how I found them.

Eating and buying locally help us to live in the present moment, as does going to farmer’s markets and making that connection to the makers in our lives. It all comes down to living an authentic life!

Come check us out at 232 Fifth Ave in Park Slope, online at www.blueribbongeneralstore.com and on Instagram at @anniesblueribbongeneralstore.

ZR: What made you want to open a store?

AC: From the beginning of my career I knew that I wanted to be an entrepreneur.

I took a class on how to open up a store even after being in the corporate world for a short time. I wrote hundreds of business plans but it was always the same idea, of a modern general store, like a country general store, but for city living. Living in an urban environment, there are other challenges (like space issues), so I got the idea for Annie’s Blue Ribbon General Store, where we’d have all the best products under one roof. If you go to a big box store and want to buy an alarm clock, you have several options. In my shop, I find the best alarm clock. It might cluck like a rooster, or it’ll be all white, or it’ll be a dock for your iPhone—but it will always be fun and functional. That is the idea behind it all, fun and functional wares to give and get. It was twelve years in the making, with lots of planning, before it finally opened in 2007.

ZR: Why did you choose to open your store in Brooklyn?

AC: I love Brooklyn! I love the community around Kings County, and it’s so anti–chain [stores], so they’re very welcoming and wonderful to small business owners. I try to reciprocate by giving the best offerings we can. It’s such a nice community, and I’m proud to be a part of it.

ZR: You wear quite a few hats—professor, business–owner, mom—how do you juggle it all?

AC: I have a really great team at my store and I’m so passionate about teaching.

Everything that I do works together; owning a store and teaching about merchandising go hand in hand.

ZR: What are some companies that are doing notable sustainable work?

Photography by Zach Rosenbaum

DEAR INDUSTRY

FIT

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Future Mode:

On Saying Goodbye

by Marissa Mule

Those who know me best will understand why it’s so hard for me to give up Future Mode. As a freshman, I remember walking into a W27 meeting and asking Heather Viggiani, the editor–in–chief at the time, if I could write my own student column. After having heard an instant “yes,” I found myself birthing the Future Mode column: a portrayal of emerging student life in the art world. A lot of farewell columns are cheesy, but I won’t bore you with bittersweet nonsense. However, I will leave you with some Future Mode inspiration before I go.

Future Mode has never skipped a beat – unlike my heart at this very moment – as

I bid farewell to my second home here at FIT. They say “all good things come to an end,” but can you believe how fast time seems to go? Four years ago, I submitted my first Future Mode column to W27 – an interview with two knitwear design students who, sure enough, had a “passion for fashion.” For all of my readers and fellow creators, that’s a word to think about: passion. Future Mode has revolved itself around passion. It’s content stemmed from a passion for opportunity, to allow students to become one with the passionate FIT community. Come to think of it, we all come to FIT to pursue a passion, right?

Future Mode began strictly as a fashion column. I collaborated with the Fashion Design Chair, Colette Wong, going back and forth to choose some of FIT’s most talented students for the column. After having been approached by numerous department chairs in the School of Art and Design, it was time Future Mode

became more of a lifestyle column – a monthly dose of hidden talent in the emerging art world, projecting onto student life. From then on, Future Mode covered creators alike, from fine artists and interior designers, to packaging design students and photographers. I can certainly say that I’ve enjoyed the struggle with Future Mode as well.

Nothing about it was perfect – in fact, it had flaws just like any one of us. There were times I didn’t know whom to interview. Sometimes, the amount of talent is overwhelming. How could I choose just one student to interview? As such, I gained enough inspiration from my fellow artists, that my own fine artwork began to take on a life of its own.

is key. Future Mode was an expression of the inner self – a timeline of talent which exuded confidence. Here’s my last bit of Future Mode advice: Don’t ever give up on being yourself and follow your dreams.

Dealing with criticism can be hard, but it’s a part of life. Within every step I took at FIT and in every Future Mode column I wrote, I’ve realized all of my opportunities here were a blessing in disguise. It’s true when they say “you don’t know what you’ve got until its gone.” So thank you, Future Mode.

In my first ever Future Mode column, I began with a quote by Coco Chanel, “Everyday is a fashion show, and the world is your runway.” With that, I’ll be damned if I don’t tell you that confidence Photos courtesy of Marissa Mule

Bittersweet Adieus Fernanda DeSouza words by Rachel Basel

Q: What would you say the biggest thing that’s changed about you since freshman year?

A: I definitely grew up a lot. The city itself helped to mold me. I’m so much more aware of my surroundings and I knew I always was, but now I’m really acute on things.

Q: What is the single most important thing New York City has taught you?

Photography by Rebecca Ladder

A: This is going to sound really cliché, but be yourself. It’s changed people and I think you have to take it one day at a time and breathe. I hate New York sometimes, but you have to love it; if you love it enough, it will start loving you back. Don’t let people mold you. Yes, you can change your clothes sometimes and change the color of your hair, but just be yourself, because you don’t want to be like everybody else in New York. You want to stand out in your own way.

Q: What is your favorite thing that you’ve written for W27?

A: Before I was editor–in–chief, I did all the film reviews so I got invited to all the screenings and got to see movies before it came out. That was fun. But I think my favorite thing that I ever wrote was my “losing my virginity” article, because I never thought I would do that, ever. It was something that I had wanted to do for a long time and I didn’t think I’d find the courage to do it. Being part of the W27 community and having an audience like FIT gave me the confidence to talk openly about my sex life. I definitely haven’t shown that issue to my mother yet!

Q: What is the most important thing FIT has taught you?

A: I think building relationships with professors is probably one of the most important things I learned at this school.

It definitely taught me to use the people that are standing in front of me, lecturing.

They’re really resourceful. It taught me to network, network, network and to take every opportunity that comes your way.

There’s so many great things that FIT offers that people don’t even know about.

When you hear something cool, try it out!

And if you hear nothing, then go find it.

Q: What has been your favorite thing about working on W27?

A: The people I have met along the way have been amazing. I’ve built relationships with such talented people I hope to work with in the future. But what I’ve also loved was to see people better themselves. Having my staff understand the process then seeing their work shine through when its published has been the most satisfying part of W27.

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Megan Venere words by Sarah Fielding

Q: How have you changed most since freshman year?

A: I came in with one idea about the fashion industry but, being an FMM major, I have learned that it is completely different from what I’d thought. I also became more confident in my abilities.

I don’t always worry that I won’t be able to do something, instead I just dive in headfirst. Taking on major projects as a freshman and doing things that most of my peers hadn’t done was instrumental in this. I was working with Style Shop doing finance and I was helping my manager run that. I think doing those things in my freshman year definitely helped me get to where I am now.

Q: What did you enjoy most about being on the W27?

A: Getting to interact with different people and having friends outside of my major. Being an FMM student and part of the Merchandising Society, you’re always with people from your major. It was nice that once a week, I got to come in and be with AMC and Graphics students and talk about what’s going on in the world, instead of just what is going on in school and in fashion. I’ve also always

liked writing for the paper. I knew that was something I wanted to do when I came here because I had been writing for school newspapers since I was eleven.

Q: Do you have a favorite article you’ve written?

A: One of my favorite articles that I wrote was my freshman year and the Met was having the McQueen exhibit. My current roommate was an intern at the Met and I had asked her if I could write a story covering the exhibit. She told me that I could come to a party they were hosting and conduct some interviews there. I ended up getting to interview four people from the college group that were working on the exhibit, but when I was ready to send in the article, I had to go through the Met’s PR department. Because they were employees, they had to scan the interview before I could turn it in. The whole process was huge, but I finally was able to submit my article. I was so excited when I saw it in the May issue, it was just so great.

Q: What is your favorite spot in NYC? A: Even though a lot of tourists go there, I really love the Highline. I remember

Photo courtesy of Megan Venere

going there with my Art History class in high school and they hadn’t even finished building it yet so we could only come up to a certain point. I just remember it being so cool. Even now, I’ve taken my sister, my parents and friends up there.

It can be just so relaxing and it has such a unique, cool view of the city. I also love the rooftop garden of the Met. Whenever I am up there, even if there are a bunch of other people around, I always feel a sense of calm. There’s not much hustle and bustle. Being up there, everything gets quiet and you see the skyscrapers and you see Central Park. It’s just very relaxing.

Q: If you could give freshman at FIT one piece of advice what would it be?

A: Enjoy it while you can. It’s going to fly by so fast and you’re going to realize that you have to be real adults soon. Also, don’t overthink things. Do what you feel is right for you and makes you comfortable.

If all your friends are getting internships but you’d rather work, than just work. In my experience, everything will fall into place and everything kind of happens for a reason. My third piece of advice

is definitely, if you can, study abroad.

Whether it’s a three–week program, summer or winter programs, a year, or a semester, just go for it. Step outside of 27th Street and go explore the world.

You never know what is going to happen in your life. I know that I definitely have become a much stronger, better person from studying abroad. Living on your own and experiencing a different culture just gives you such a different perspective of the world and your life.

Q: What are your plans for after graduation?

A: I will be working for Gap in their design center as an assistant product manager for Gap Adult. They are moving everything downtown. Their design office is in TriBeCa. I did the summer internship program last June so when I start, I will have been there a year. I don’t know whether I’m going to be in women’s or men’s or accessories or body, but I’m definitely staying within the adult realm right now.

Zach Rosenbaum words by Hermina Sobhraj

Photo courtesy of Zach Rosenbaum

Q: Let’s start with the basics. How’d you like FIT and what was your major?

A: I definitely think I chose the right school by going to FIT. It was a really good fit for me. I studied Fashion Merchandising Management and studied abroad in Florence for a whole year. Upon my return, my major became International Merchandising Management.

word counts. And now, I’m also the web editor! Well, I was the web editor.

to meet deadlines, and when you do, it’s really rewarding.

Q: So many of us are going to be so nervous when we graduate. Are you?

Q: Speaking of working really hard, how do you find time to stay committed to W27?

A: The nerves have kind of gone away.

It’s so real– right now is when you have to really start planning. I feel like I am passed the nervous stage and that I have already graduated.

A: It’s hard because in order to stay committed, you need to have a mindset that lends itself to being part of two communities: the school on a smaller scale and New York on a larger scale. I find time to stay committed because there are a lot of things that I personally want to share [in the newspaper]. I had to really prioritize my senior year, and being a part of W27 definitely became a focus.

Q: You joined the paper in Sophomore year. Any particular reason why?

A: I knew initially that I wanted to work for some sort of news publication, blog or some sort of culture–related club. I’ve always been really strong in my written and verbal communication skills, so I decided to take advantage of that by joining the newspaper.

Q: You’ve been writing many of our Faculty Spotlight pieces, as well as other articles. Can you name an embarrassing moment or struggle that particularly stands out?

Q: What was your first task on W27?

A: I was a writer and sort of just grew with it. It taught me a lot. I hadn’t taken a journalism class or anything, but I learned a lot about how to be professional when interviewing people and how to condense a lot of information into short

Q: What part of W27 will you miss the most?

A: It gives me a sense of dignity. Monthly when you see it [the newspaper] on the stands, it’s so exciting. That’s my name written in print. It’s a thrill and an adrenaline rush. You work really hard

A: I think that the funniest thing was when I interviewed Andrew Weinstein for the New York Issue. He is a smart guy.

He knows a lot. He’s an art historian, knows about architecture and he’s very well read. Interviewing him was nerve– wracking because I didn’t want to make

any mistakes. I asked him a couple of personal questions, but he didn’t really like that.

Q: How has being on W27 helped you personally?

A: I interviewed at this French retailer, Vente–Privé, for a post–graduation job.

They said the head of marketing got a hold of my resume. I was able to show him a lot of writing samples, a lot of the images I grabbed from my articles– they have been really helpful in trying to shape my career.

Q: Do you feel like you’re part of a community at W27?

A: It’s always been a dream of mine to be part of an editorial team, working at a magazine. I hear the language that editors speak all the time– rushing to meet deadlines and I see them sitting in their meetings. They always look so professional and ready to write. I always look forward to the W27 meetings because it gives me a great sense of purpose. I work hard, but it’s for everyone to see and to enjoy. That’s something I really love.

DEAR INDUSTRY Sumzine x Helpsy Host Fashion Revolution Day Event

by Hermina Sobhraj and Britt Bivens

Sustainable fashion is often misunderstood. In the past it was considered to be ugly, with styles reminiscent of a catalog for middle aged women and made of slubby fabrics, like hemp. The reality, however, is that in the past couple of years the “fashion” part has become much more prominent and the textiles have evolved into luxurious versions of cottons, silks and other natural fiber textiles, like Modal. Even petro–based polyester gets consideration with recycling. Sustainable fashion encompasses more than only organic materials though. It now includes factors such as ethical manufacturing– like fair trade and anti–sweatshop, as well as no–waste movements and upcycling.

Sumzine editor Jamie Ortega and Helpsy founder Rachel Kibbe are at the forefront of this movement in the fashion industry. The two hosted a panel discussion to commemorate Fashion Revolution Day at The303 at LOUIE and CHAN in SoHo. Industry leaders Rhett Godfrey, director of sustainability of Loomstate; Carmen Artigas, designer and consultant;

industry. Helpsy is an innovative e–boutique whose main mission revolves around changing the common misconception regarding sustainability by using social media and the Internet as a platform.

Photo courtesy of lanilantto.com

Leanne Mai–Ly Hilgart, founder of Vaute Couture; Jasmin Malik Chua, managing editor of ECOUTERRE; and Bianca Alexander, communications director of FRD USA, discussed what it takes when starting a “Fashion Revolution.” They were questioned on fair treatment of workers, shaky factory conditions and how to market sustainability as an approachable concept to consumers. Sumzine and Helpsy also provided a silent auction with photos from celebrity photographer Ruvan

Wijesooriya’s trip to garment factories in Afghanistan, fashion drawings from Jenny Mörtsell, a rising illustrator, and of course, cocktails.

Ortega and Kibbe are using their projects to further the sustainable cause for fashion. Ortega’s Sumzine is a biannual better fashion magazine in its conception stages; their content concentrates on pivotal, sustainable changes made in the fashion

Bringing global awareness to the cause of workers’ rights, like a safe place of employment, Fashion Revolution Day falls on April 24, marking the one–year anniversary of the Rana Plaza disaster.

Thousands of garment factory workers lost their lives on this day at the hands of a terrible building implosion. The worldwide movement campaigns for greater transparency in the ready–to–wear garment industry by urging consumers to wear their clothing inside out for the day (this shows off the respective tags that display the country in which the garment was made). As this event amongst a handful of others prove, sustainable fashion is finally gaining the momentum it needs to well, sustain itself.

Modern Farmer

by Zach Rosenbaum

Photo courtesy of Modern Farmer

Some folks are curious about where their local produce comes from. Many want to be a part of the food sustainability movement, so they own their own chickens, grow their own herbs or engage with local farmers. There’s no better way to forge a connection with your food than to follow it from the beginning of its journey. After all, you are what you eat. If you are looking to gain some insight into conscious eating, tap into Modern Farmer.

food comes from. Modern Farmer is a platform that allows communities to come together with the food they eat and the people who grow or produce it.

“We think that food issues are not just a thing that’s nice to know, but there will increasingly be a need to know.” These are the words of Ann Marie Gardner, founder of Modern Farmer, a new print/ online publication and a product of the growing desire to understand where our

The magazine serves as a hub of information regarding agriculture, sustainability issues and food ideas. It is also an online marketplace where one can purchase anything that a modern farmer might want or need (from gardening tools to organic cotton bibs for babies). People are

Modern Farmer is a print quarterly, a website with daily content and an online shop. It caters to those who value healthy eating, living a simple and pure lifestyle and those who like to dabble in sustainable food ideas.

quick to jump on board, because we as a community are the beneficiaries of these discussions—a “by the people for the people” type deal. Many want to be more conscious about how and what they feed themselves and their families.

Modern Farmer’s importance is apparent: it serves to educate people who don’t realize that what they consume doesn’t only impact themselves—it affects the whole world. What’s more, as a news source, it covers environmental crises, food security issues, plant and animal info and cultural happenings, as well as interesting, but not pressing issues (i.e.: “Do Tomatoes Give You Body Odor?”)

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Worm On

by Brit Bivens

Photo courtesy of Orlando Suazo Jr.

My worms arrived by USPS. Because we don’t have a doorman, I had alerted all my work–from–home neighbors that I was expecting them in case I missed our postal worker. “If she buzzes,“ said my e–mail, “please let her in so that I can get my little guys inside, out of the cold.”

I had been composting for years. Well, not me personally, but I was schlepping pounds and pounds of food scraps to the Union Square Greenmarket so that the Lower East Side Ecology Center could. The lady that manned the stand knew me well, and when I would buy compost, she’d sometimes throw a small bag in gratis.

As a longtime “conscious lifestyle” person I did what I could to minimize my carbon footprint. I composted, recycled everything I could (including textiles) and refused to buy products with excess packaging and toxic ingredients. This was the final step.

using worms (usually red wrigglers for indoor operations). The worms eat the decomposing scraps and poop out nutrient– rich worm castings. Plants love these castings, and the whole process is easy, although not particularly quick. I had done plenty of online research and it had come time for me to finally apply what I had learned.

I made the commitment to get my worms, I took an indoor composting workshop that took us through set–up, feeding and maintenance. They ask for a five dollar donation for the workshop, which is then used against the purchase price of a composting bin that comes with a pound of red wriggler worms (about one thousand).

But I had other plans. After looking at the time/space/effort equation I decided my worms needed a house, not a box.

My Worm Factory comes with trays and when one is full, the next one is added on top and the worms continue to migrate upwards, towards the food. I’m still learning– I’ve had escapees, and my bottom layer wasn’t as dark or moist as it should have been.

I needed a pro.

Rebecca Louie is known as “The Compostess” and leads educational workshops (and birthday parties!) on composting. She’s become the go–to expert on the topic and is currently writing a book, due to be released spring 2015. While working in journalism, she took the NYC Department of Sanitation Master Composter Certificate course and it changed her life. This, she says, changed her life.

The course introduced her to the world of composting and the community that comes with it, an interesting and extremely diverse group, she explains. Louie also worked with Earth Matters, a volunteer– based group located on Governor’s Island that composts the thousands of pounds of food waste collected from NYC’s various farmers’ markets weekly.

“I just love how this interest in returning to the earth is about being a creature rather than being attached to technology.”

Vermicomposting is the composting of food scraps and other organic materials

The New York City Department of Sanitation has a department dedicated to composting, called “The Compost Project.” This department offers various workshops for those who are interested in learning how to successfully compost.

They even offer a Master Composter Certificate Course for those who are truly dedicated and want to incorporate a community aspect into their learning. Before

Although she offers consulting services for those who are looking to start composting, her main activity is workshops where she is educating a group. And, no kidding aside, she’s been the “talent” for birthday parties, with the kids learning about how the worms turn food scraps into what’s often referred to as “black gold.” It’s the kids, she explains, that are usually the most receptive and enthusiastic about vermicomposting and the ones that push the parents into adopting it on

Photo courtesy of Britt Bivens

a larger scale for the home. A goody bag of worms can soon turn into a shoebox under a sink, bed or desk– it’s a relatively adaptable operation.

Louie’s book will be an urban composting guide of sorts presented from a lifestyle perspective. It will offer advice for different levels of interest and involvement while keeping in mind that some readers may be working with limited green space.

With the growing trend of wanting to know more about our food and peripheral activities like composting becoming more incorporated into that lifestyle, Louie sees a promising future.

“I just love how this interest in returning to the earth is about being a creature rather than being attached to technology.”

Rebecca Louie signs off her emails with ‘worm on.’ She’s a crazy worm lady. And, I’m proud to say, so am I.

LITTLE BY LITTLE EQUALS A LOT

by Brit Bivens

Water shortage is not a topic of discussion around NYC. We turn on the faucet and water comes out, and in the summer we may see hydrants gushing water and think nothing of the fact that there aren’t any kids playing in the spray. But in other regions of the U.S. it’s a big deal, sometimes a really big deal.

Several counties in Texas along with other states, mostly in the Southwest, have implemented water restrictions as the shortage borders on crisis. How can a green lawn be considered important when drinking water is threatened? For several years, Las Vegas has famously paid residents to replace their lawn with artificial

turf–and the “lawn–less” yard has even become a gardening trend.

Based on this new necessity, Lyndon Treacy and his father, Denis, produced, tada! the Joeycan. They are from Australia, where water shortages are a way of life in the summer. Australians have long held a tradition of setting a garden bucket under the shower while waiting for it to warm up, catching and reusing the water. Carrying the bucket out to the garden, however, becomes a challenge as the water typically sloshes out of the top and over the sides. The Joeycan takes on a combination of capture tool (the bucket function) and watering can to simplify

the process, saving over a gallon and a half each shower. Design nerds can check out the website to further investigate its unique (and patent pending) features while others can just enjoy feeling that they’re doing their part when it comes to preserving nature’s precious resources. www.joeycan.com

Photos courtesy of joeycan.com

FEATURE

14

Summer, Simplified

Look one: Hat– 69 Sweatshirt– Alexander Wang

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It’s summertime in the city and we’re ready to shed off some layers. Simple silhouettes and a carefree approach make for a laid back look that’s in tune with the season.

Look two: Sports Bra– Student Designer Jack Burns Black Top– Student Designer Alex Slade

Model/Hair/Makeup: Talia arochas Stylist: Chloe Dewberry

Look Three/Cover: Hat– 69 Top and Pants– Student Designer Grace Lee Shoes– Bhava

DEAR INDUSTRY

FIT

16

New York Times Sustainability Conference

by Ciara Mcmanus

This year I was invited as a guest of the New York Times to attend their annual sustainability conference. This year’s focus was the development of cities, and the speakers included some of the top sustainability experts and forward–thinkers from around the globe. At the daylong conference, held at the Times Center, I was among one of the youngest delegates in the room packed with white–haired men in gray suits Growing up, I was taught the basics of being eco–friendly: recycling and saving energy when possible. Living in Germany, Europe’s green leader of sustainable policy–making, recycling and environmental responsibility were ingrained into my easily impressionable head. And to this day, I am greatly appreciative. That’s where my inherent interest in sustainability probably began. Fast–forward more than a couple years, and I am living in NYC, where we are spoiled with clean water, remarkable infrastructure and cutting–edge technology.

Water was a recurring topic at the conference, as it is a key element for our economy, the bio–network and our survival..

But what happens when the bottom half of a city is blacked–out for a week with billions of dollars in damage due to a hurricane–produced flood? The city goes into shock and we are suddenly surprised by our county’s water dependency and vulnerability. In America, there is a balance of forestalling the impact of natural disasters, while simultaneously ensuring there is enough water for the future. At the basic cultural level, there needs to be a greater awareness and consciousness of the how much water we use and need daily. Hurricane Sandy was a wake up call to the extreme threats of climate change and the necessity of creating a resilient approach to protect the world we have now.

Transportation, and the infrastructure that supports it, is one of the key areas of a sustainable community. A safe and efficient transportation infrastructure gives a growing economy a better chance to thrive. With an adequate transportation system, access to resources such as healthcare, supermarkets and schools is more readily available. The World Health Organization listed social determinants of health, including the physical environment and the condition of those

environments, as factors contributing to the well being of people around the world.

Today, the poor are getting poorer and the rich are getting richer, an ongoing development that’s causing “poor people to seek opportunity and more and more unplanned cities [to] boom, accelerating alarming economic disparities, a trend that’s socially and environmentally unstable,” according to a statement

by New York Times architecture critic, Michael Kimmelman. When more and more people move into cities, retrofitting the existing infrastructure to allow for eco–conscious expansion is a necessity.

Innovations such as car shares, like Zipcar, and bike shares like Citi–Bikes, are ways cities today are able to allow an abundance of people to commute without congesting existing roads and transit systems.

In the one setting I thought I could get away from a conversation about dating applications, a discussion about the power of technology began and there I was, listening to a panel discuss Tinder, Grindr and Uber. Yes, with glorious chat apps people can now meet before actually meeting; but today’s revolutionary technology is also causing cities to cut

down on energy and resources at both macro and micro levels. With the explosion of communicative technology that is now available to more people around the globe, the level of our connectivity often overshadows the importance of healthy and sustainable cities, and the essential resources to supply these cities.

Sustainability is a timely buzzword in the fashion industry as well. Tragedies like the one in Bangladesh in last year’s worst–ever textile factory building collapse, taking some 1129 lives, have opened the eyes of the consuming and producing sides of the business. Textile innovations may drive sustainable clothing, but we are still learning about the reality of sweatshops and harsh conditions, inside and outside the U.S. To the hopeful designers reading this: I challenge you to consider sustainability when managing future manufacturing processes and controls, from fabric to garment, including the proper handling of wastewater discharge, pollutants and energy use. The world – and those who wear your future designs – will thank you.

Career N Coffee: Brooke Blashill, Senior Vice President of Ogilvy Public Relations Worldwide

by Venus Wong

The phrase “PR maven” is an oft–overused descriptor in the industry, but Brooke Blashill is truly deserving of the title. As senior vice president of the brand marketing practice sector at Ogilvy Public Relations, she’s on the top of her game when it comes to pitching new business, growing accounts and creating buzz for new products. A true global citizen, Blashill has worked in London and Singapore, and honed her business acumen by creating communication strategies for consumer brands like Shell, Kraft Foods and Uniqlo. Ever the curious learner and self–starter, she is now pursuing a Master of Business Administration in Global Fashion Management at FIT. Ahead, she lets us in on her decade working in the field.

VW: Tell us a little about what you studied in school and how you decided on a career in Public Relations.

BB: I majored in integrated public relations and advertising at the University of Central Michigan. Since it was a relatively new major, I didn’t really have a clear idea of what publicity is — until I got my first internship at a boutique agency.

There, I did internal communications for McDonald’s, which was headquartered right outside of Chicago. Writing internal press releases and pitching to media really “clicked” for me as a career path. I got my first job at Zeno Group after graduation,

handling restaurant openings and organizing events.

VW: Can you take us through the process of a campaign, from idea to execution?

VW: What drove you to take the plunge and move to London?

BB: First, the client tells us what they expect from the campaign. Usually, they are looking to launch a new product or completely rebrand their vision statement. We have an idea of what they want to focus on from the briefing, which could either be verbal or a 20–page report.

Then, I’ll put together a diverse team — someone from our social, entertainment, advertising and brand marketing departments — to form the best think tank for the project. We’ll brainstorm on who the target audience is and how to make our message unique. We collaborate with the research and insights team to pull the top five trends influencing the segment. It’s essential to root our recommendations on true consumer observations, or else it’s not going to work. With a number of ideas in mind, we access them by asking if they meet a cultural or environmental need in the market. Those that make the cut are ones that touch on an emotional aspect.

They have to be strong enough to spark a dialogue with the media and consumers and to make them stand up and care. We also debate on whether the ideas represent the brand’s best self, and are credible and logical for them to take on. Finally, we break it down into one to three options and present to the clients. The one they like will be put into motion.

BB: After three years of working in Chicago, I felt the city was getting really small. I yearned for something more challenging and all–encompassing, so that became my major drive to live abroad.

After a long and grueling interview process, I was offered a job at Edelman in London. I was the first American to work there. It was an amazing experience, doing global communications with a very international team.

VW: What are some differences in working as a creative in London, as opposed to the U.S.?

BB: The British are more advanced when it comes to collaborating. They have no qualms about pulling ideas from different disciplines and levels of the food chain.

They welcome ideas from everyone — be it a senior employee or an intern. Since the country is more liberal in nature, you can push the envelope a little bit further. I was also managing our markets in ten Southeast Asian and European countries. Getting to know their different media cultures was extremely rewarding, and it triggered the desire to make Singapore my next step.

VW: Can you share your isights on how the industry has evolved and offer some parting tips to our graduating students who aspire to work in PR? BB: The industry has changed a lot in the last decade: It used to be about building publicity through reporters and trying to earn those media placements. Now, everything is much more comprehensive — it’s about strategic partnerships, brand building and forging relationships with influencers. A job in PR has transcended to marketing functions, as opposed to the traditional pitching role. My advice for students is that they should try to work on as many kinds of accounts as possible when they are starting out. That’s the best way to figure out what really speaks to you. If you discover multiple passions, you’ll be able to fuse them together and carve out a niche for yourself later on.

Also, for anybody that wants to work in a senior position at a global company, you should be open to living in those markets.

Sitting in America and consuming market research doesn’t compare to actually being there and seeing what the day–to– day is like. Working with an intercultural team is crucial for developing ideas that work in multiple countries. Venturing outside of your comfort zone will refine your leadership skills and ability to listen, adapt and respond — it’s only going to make you better at business.

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Beauty Buzz:

What Does Green Really Mean?

by Dianna Mazzone

From food to fashion and everywhere in between, the term organic is thrown around quite freely. And, in the case of cosmetics, that notion couldn’t ring more true. Words like natural, organic, and paraben–free accompany launches of everything from anti–aging creams to eyeliners. But, according to Professor Laurence Smith of the Cosmetic and Fragrance Marketing program, in most cases, these terms are merely marketing fluff. “What is organic, really?” says Smith. “At its core, it means it’s from a plant, taken as is. But to put it in a cosmetic, you’ve got to do something with it.”

And it’s that disruption of nature, he says, that compromises the ability for the vast majority of beauty products to be considered truly organic.

So how do brands manage to legally peddle their products using terms like “all natural,” “chemical free,” and “certified organic”? Smith sees it as a lack of regulation on the part of the Food and Drug Administration, which governs the

safety of cosmetics. To hear Smith tell it, the FDA has far more to worry about (they also monitor the distribution and regulation of medicine) than righting the wrong that is misleading labels slapped on beauty products.

That said, even if a cosmetic truly is derived straight from the earth, according to Smith, organic beauty poses its own set of problems. “Organic doesn’t mean it’s safe—think about poison ivy!” he says. “I always tell people that water is the most dangerous chemical in my lab. It’s all about moderation.” Moderation is also key when it comes to cultivating natural ingredients, says Smith, who is quick to note the environmental issues that come into play when brands utilize natural elements as opposed to man–made ingredients. “You have to ask yourself—is this sustaining the environment? Is there really enough here that [a product with a natural extracts] can be marketed to the masses? It’s all about finding a balance—you’ll never have a perfect situation,” says Smith.

Photo courtesy of www.chicvegan.com

To that end, when it comes to choosing and using your own beauty products, “it’s all about finding what works for you,” according to Smith. Whether you favor a drugstore brand moisturizer that makes no natural claims or find satisfaction in using an eye cream loaded with plant extracts, it’s all about reaching a balance that makes you—and your skin, face, and body—happy.

Photo courtesy of www.bunnybeautiful.co.uk

Photo courtesy of www.beautystat.com

feature Modern Sustainability: Thinking Outside the Box

by Rachel Basel

It’s no secret that people have been inventing sustainable forms of energy as a way to better our lives. As the years go by and conditions worsen, ideas are starting to make it off the drawing board and people are developing new, intelligent projects that will surprise and challenge the way you think.

Solar Roadways

Wind Turbines Although giant wind turbines are somewhat of a modern invention, wind as an energy source has been used for more than 1,100 years. The U.S. Department of Energy Wind Program has been growing since the 1990s and developing technology with one main goal: “…to deliver clean, renewable energy throughout the nation.”

This project has been one for the first truly impressive conservation efforts, which has helped inspire other efforts since.

The program targets rural areas with few options for local alternate sources of power. The movement of the blades creates kinetic energy, which is converted into mechanical energy in the generator.

And depending on the location, the wind power is affected by bodies of water, vegetation and terrain.

Today, modern turbines fall into the categories of horizontal–axis and vertical– axis and range in size from 100 kilowatts to several megawatts. The Wind Program has become incredibly important to the United States. It has made the country a world leader in exports of small turbines, provided great social and economic benefits and has significantly increased the job market. As far as plans for the future, the Department of Energy is collecting funds from developing turbines in U.S. waters.

It also plans to increase the number of small turbines certified for performance and safety standards from zero in 2010 to 40 in 2020. Lastly, it hopes to reduce the cost of energy of wind turbine technology to the national retail average for electricity rates by 2020.

Developed as a response to climate change and the world’s excessive use of oil, Julie and Scott Brusaw of Sagle, Idaho invented Solar Roadways. These roadways are glass– covered solar panels, laid out as a road would be, collecting energy and using LED lights which would replace road paint and signs. They would also provide charging stations along the road for electric cars, and give off heat, eliminating snow and ice accumulation.

This idea would eliminate the need for oil and in turn, recycle the countless gallons used in laying down the pavement.

Not only that, but Solar Roadways would decrease the emission of greenhouse gases and put an end to power shortages and roaming power outages.

The Brusaws received permission from the Federal Highway Administration in 2009 to build their first prototype and have since improved and fine–tuned the roadways.

They found that certain types of glass can have the same strength as steel and also experimented with traction and transparency. The Solar Roadways inventors plan on creating solar sidewalks as well, that way panels would not only provide energy to cars and gadgets on the road, but also to homes and public buildings.

Design Made From Shipping Containers WFH House is a sustainable project developed in China by architecture firm, Arcgency. Based on a need for more sustainable and smarter architecture, the company has created a patented modular building system made entirely from recycled shipping containers. The website states that the building “was designed to produce more energy than it consumes through the use of upcycled shipping containers as a steel frame, a sustainable bamboo facade, a rainwater collection system, solar cell–clad green roof and permeable paving.”

The elegant, minimal home has a 40 foot high standard and can be adapted to climatic conditions and issues such as earthquakes. The space is incredibly versatile and can be transformed into town houses, cluster homes or individual homes.

WFH House’s shipping container design is open, modern and decorated in a surprisingly stylish way.

Photos courtesy of solarroadways.com, goodshomedesign.com, energy.gov

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Dumpster Diving, The Freeganist Way

by Ileana de Hoyos and Sarah Fielding

Two weeks ago we had never heard of “Freeganism.” If someone had told us that we were going to eat food out of a dumpster, we would have gagged. However, after doing some research and spending a night digging through trash with our new Freegan friends, our opinions changed drastically.

Freeganism is the act of buying as little as possible and making use of recycled or discarded goods and materials, in an effort to reduce waste and limit environmental impact. While this is accurate for a majority of Freegans, each of them hold varying opinions on how to prac-

“It is a way for them to express a voice for the environment to fight corporate waste while conserving our ecosystem” tice Freeganism. At the Freegan Meetup we attended, the Freegans’ message is similar to that of a protest. It is a way for them to express a voice for the environment to fight corporate waste while conserving our ecosystem. Many Freegans

“We had very low expectations going into dumpster diving but we were both fascinated and horrified at how much good food is wasted on a daily basis”

don’t necessarily need this dumpster food to survive, but want to make a statement about being sustainable; it is their peaceful way of telling the world that waste is wrong and that the environment needs a voice. The Freeganism community emphasized that dumpster diving and Freeganism don’t necessarily have to go together. There are Freegans who have never dumpster dived and there are dumpster divers who have never heard of Freeganism.

To include newcomers, the Freegans were very welcoming and helpful in giving us tips. “Wear gloves and keep the streets open.” Going through the city street trash is not always legal, depending on local regulation and certain stores/building regulations. If you’re going to go through trash, you have to be careful not to block the street to passersby.

To start our dumpster diving adventure, we began on the Upper East Side, making our way into some CVS’s and local grocery stores. Many Freegans have to wait until late in the evening, when locations close and take out their trash.

At one point during our trip to the city street trash, two police officers approached us and asked what we were doing. We didn’t exactly know what to say until one officer asked, “Oh it’s Earth Day or something, right?” “Yes! Exactly.” We smiled and let the real Freegans take it from there.

The Freegans reminded us that sometimes people are going to look at you

Photo courtesy of Ileana De Hoyos

strangely when they see you digging through trash. One man who is a consistent dumpster–diver told us about a time when he was mistaken for a homeless person. He was going through the trash near a restaurant and a couple came up to him and offered their take–out. He laughed and explained that he has plenty of money for food and that he simply preferred finding food this way. He said that if anything it was the couple who became embarrassed.

After getting over our fear of touching garbage bags, it became quite fun!

It felt like a treasure hunt, except at the end of the rainbow, there was a pot of sustainable trash. The trick was to feel the heaviness of the bag and get an idea of what was inside; you could tell when it was purely trash because most of the food won’t be mixed in with the trash but will be in another, separate bag. We found a few items at the first stops like Valentine’s Day candy and some pre–made packaged salads, but nothing substantial.

Then we stopped at a grocery store. Here they had large bags filled with plenty of fresh vegetables, breads, cookies, salads, fruits and more. It was our first big find and everyone got at least one bag full of food. In a case like this, before everyone started taking what they could, all the food was placed aside. When the digging was done, we all stood in a circle around

Photo courtesy of Sarah Fielding

the food. One of the members of the Freegan community read a poem he had written about mother nature and the food we were graced with. Another member added to this by reminding us how fruitful the place we live in is if we only look and help maintain the environment. “Not only is this a great way to stop waste and protest against waste, but it’s also without cost,” she added.

It felt like saying grace before dinner time. There were two elements by which we were completely surprised. First, the fact that so much of the food we found was still completely packaged and fresh. We had very low expectations going into dumpster diving but we were both fascinated and horrified at how much good food is wasted on a daily basis. Second, how incredibly friendly and welcoming everyone was. While we had never dumpster dived, we all still felt like part of the group.

They did however mention that there are Freegans who like to dumpster dive alone, and can become very territorial over their regular spots. At the end of the night, and on our way home, we found ourselves looking at all the trash bags we passed, wondering what fresh foods might just be going to waste.

Photo courtesy of Sarah Fielding

FEATURE

FIT

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Is Bangladesh Still on Fire?

by Hermina Sobhraj

The garment industry in Bangladesh is notorious for its low wages, repression of unions and unsafe working conditions.

Over three million workers, most of whom are young women, are employed in the industry and remain some of the lowest paid garment workers in the world, receiving only 0.32 U.S. cents per hour.

Even if garment workers wanted to protest, because of Bangladesh’s current political state, workers are not permitted to monitor or report freely about safety or fire hazards.

Thus, the backbreaking garment industry mixed with Bangladesh’s unjust political system has seemingly created an inescapable black hole for factory workers.

On April 24, 2013, the garment industry witnessed its greatest industrial disaster. The infamous eight–story Rana Plaza building, located on the outskirts of Dhaka, Bangladesh, collapsed on thousands of workers at the hands of a tenacious fire. “Survivors described a sensation akin to being in an earthquake: hearing a loud and terrifying cracking sound; feeling the concrete factory floor roll beneath their feet; and watching concrete beams and pillars collapse,” read a quote from The New York Times.

Over 1,100 garment workers perished in the incident, owing their demise to poor infrastructure, shaky safety standards and irresponsible corporate greed.

Unbeknownst to most, this was not Bangladesh’s first factory fire. Since 2006, the country has recorded over 4,000 of them; this means that, leading up to the Rana Plaza incident, on average, almost two fires were occurring every day.

A journalist from the International Fire and Security Exhibition and Conference decided to inspect some of the factories

a few, have traded with Bangladesh. They impose extremely large orders on factories that force suppliers to exercise excessive pressure on workers to meet impossible production targets. They turn a blind eye to the fact that most of these factories cannot handle such large orders and will subcontract small factories to help them.

It is there that many fires occur, in the smaller factories, because their safety standards are not as stringent. This leaves the supplier in a catch–22. If the supplier

unfortunately the only thing that can bring about change. For example, the 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Fire in New York City transformed the United States’ industrial landscape, resulting in dramatic improvements in worker safety. The Rana Plaza incident may have exposed the terrible practices of factories and corporations alike in this industry, and perhaps it can do for Bangladesh what the Shirtwaist Fire did for New York City.

The line that divides what is cheap and convenient for business versus what is humane and right for the worker is still blurred.

In fact, today consumers are more aware of the issues within Bangladesh. They use social media to display their anger, thus forcing corporations to adopt stronger, more responsible business practices–no matter if their profits will suffer or not.

More than 150 companies, including Wal–Mart and H&M have signed the Accord on Fire and Safety, a legally binding agreement between companies and unions to have more transparent inspections. Disney has ceased production in Bangladesh altogether. Some garment worker unions are now allowed to operate freely without the silencing of the Bangladeshi government, and, the minimum wage has been increased to $68 per month for garment workers. That’s roughly a 77 percent increase.

near Dhaka. Much to his bewilderment, fire doors and sprinklers were not installed in a single factory he surveyed and most factory owners did not even know what a fire door was. Many factories were illegally five to 13 stories high (most fire truck ladders can only rescue people from the first seven floors) so that they could fit more workers and a range of combustible materials and occasionally, the odd sleeping person could be found underneath tables.

So why do countries trade with Bangladesh? Facing rising wages and higher production costs in China, apparel brands started looking for new locations with cheap production capital. And, Bangladesh undeniably relies on trade with U.S. and European markets. Their garment industry accounts for more than three fourths of their total exports and contributes 17 percent of the country’s GDP. While the garment industry continues to take lives, Bangladesh essentially needs it for its own survival.

But how far is too far? Today, the owners of these factories face stark criticism and excessive fines. The country has suffered a permanent blemish because of the Rana Plaza incident. However, the responsibility does not just lie in the states’ hands.

Many corporations including Wal–Mart, Disney, Sears, H&M and Dickies, to name

does not produce, the corporation can easily move on to a new factory. If the supplier does produce, there’s a large chance its done in very unsafe environments. Instead of building stable trading relations with multi–year contracts, corporations generally look for the cheapest options.

Because corporations are creating unstable business relationships, they lose their leverage in persuading factory owners to maintain proper safety standards. Factory owners in Bangladesh have made it clear that they are not going to be motivated to take any fire safety measures when corporations just simply come and go.

Instituting proper safety measures is costly and time–consuming for them and its just not worth it.

Of course, many challenges remain. The line that divides what is cheap and convenient for business versus what is humane and right for the worker is still blurred.

Less visible issues such as overtime, unauthorized subcontracting, discrimination and harassment still exist. And we cannot deny that a country stricken by poverty is forced to sustain itself at the mercy of a literally, cut–throat industry.

While it seems like a rather hopeless situation, sometimes real tragedy is

Photos courtesy of countrywives.co.uk

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Are Organic Foods Outgrowing Their Ideals?

by Dara Kenigsberg

How organic is organic food? U.S. Department of Agriculture regulations state that in order for a product to be labeled “organic,” 95 percent of its ingredients must be organic. However, if at least 70 percent of its ingredients are organic, then it can be labeled “made with organic ingredients.” Unfortunately, USDA Organic is not always as natural as one may think. According to The Atlantic, “The USDA keeps a ‘National List’ of inorganic products that can legally go into foods labeled as organic.” Sausages that are labeled as USDA Organic can be made from animals that have been raised on regular farms and fed antibiotics, fertilizers and chemical pesticides can be sprayed on the hops in organic beer and strawberries that start out in a conventional nursery can still be labeled as organic.

In recent years, the Cornucopia Institute, a public interest group, has made claims that the National Organic Standards Board has been weakening regulations around what can and cannot be used in the production of organic foods. Lobbyists representing large corporations that profit from attaching the word “organic” to their foods have prevailed over the official standards regulating what organic foods are actually made of. It’s a deeply unfortunate fact, but organic foods might be outgrowing their initial ideals.

When a consumer thinks of where organic food is grown, often what comes to mind is lush, green fields with ripe red tomatoes, green peppers and yellow corn.

However, in Mexico, where many of these organic products are grown, those same tomatoes, peppers and corn are being nurtured by intensive irrigation processes due to the shortage of water and the desert–like conditions. Growers on the Baja Peninsula, Mexico’s major exporter of organic produce, liken it to planting a beach, not a farm, because it is so arid.

According to The New York Times, “But even as more Americans buy foods with the organic label, the products are increasingly removed from the traditional organic ideal: produce that is not only free of chemicals and pesticides but also

grown locally on small farms in a way that protects the environment.” There has been such major growth in the cultivation of organic tomatoes that wells are running dry and it is stressing the water table. Because of this, small farmers can no longer grow crops and instead the work is being outsourced. The The New York Times also stated that, “organic tomatoes end up in an energy–intensive global distribution chain that takes them as far as New York and Dubai, United Arab Emirates, producing significant emissions that contribute to global warming.”

Even large farms in Mexico that have qualified as organic use practices that are harmful to the environment, such as overtaxing local freshwater supplies or only planting one crop, which is bad for the soil. Furthermore, more than one third of the aquifers in Southern Baja are being damaged and overused by the Mexican water authority. According to Geo–Mexico.Com, “The ‘organic’ label also takes no account of the emissions involved in production and transport of fruits and vegetables to the marketplace; export–oriented horticulture in the Baja Peninsula is an energy–intensive enterprise.” Yet these problems have not deterred growers, or even Mexican environmental groups who defend their organic farming practices.

Growers in Mexico blame the tourism industry for the area’s depleted water sources. They argue that hotels and golf courses utilize more than their fair share of water. They also say that, even though the southern section of the Baja Peninsula is extremely dry, there are more golf courses in the southern coast, centered on Los Cabos, than anywhere else in the country.

Farms in the United States and abroad have to comply with a long list of regulations and standards in order to have the Agricultural Department’s organic label on their products. However, according to The New York Times, “the checklist makes few specific demands for what would broadly be called environmental sustainability, even though the 1990 law that created the standards was

Photo courtesy of lovelybella.com

intended to promote ecological balance and biodiversity as well as soil and water health.”

In general, organic farms are less damaging to the environment than regular farms, but they are not as sustainable as they used to be. Recently, standards started to change so that organic products better match their natural ideals. One Swedish organic certification program only allows produce to have the organic label if it was grown in buildings that use 80 percent renewable fuel. Last year, the Agricultural Department’s National Organic Standards Board changed its requirements surrounding milk labels so that it can only be labeled as organic if the cows were partly fed by grazing in open pastures, instead of standing in feedlots the entire time.

Originally, organic also meant eating locally grown, seasonal foods. However, consumers who want to buy organic tomatoes in December would be hard– pressed to find ones that were grown in the United States that hadn’t been grown in an energy–sucking greenhouse.

As the The New York Times stated, “Each decision to narrow the definition of ‘organic’ involves an inevitable tug– of–war among farmers, food producers, supermarkets and environmentalists.”

This is where the real problem lies. Will organic ever truly mean organic again?

HAUTE CULTURE Hot To Trot: Sriracha’s Factory Faces Some Heat

by Zach Rosenbaum

processed. The fact that the farms are located so close to the chilis may attribute to the high quality of their product.

Photo courtesy of laughingsquid.com

Sriracha is the hottest thing right now. It may even be the new ketchup. It’s one of the top–selling condiments in the United States and ships to every continent from their single factory in the small town of Irwindale, California. David Tran, a Chinese/Vietnamese immigrant, founded Huy Fong Foods over 30 years ago, with intentions of producing an ethnic product within the States. The clear bottle, green cap and rooster logo are instantly recognizable, and nothing is comparable to the sweet and spicy taste. It tickles our taste buds and warms our souls. We eat it on everything—mac n’ cheese, soups, scrambled eggs, you name it—Sriracha adds a delicious kick to it. Heck, now there are Sriracha flavored potato chips and cocktails!

Huy Fond Foods has made the stuff since the ‘80s, using fresh chilis turned into paste, distilled vinegar, garlic, sugar and salt. The name comes from a town in Thailand called Si Racha, where the sauce was first concocted. Huy Fong works closely with local farms in Ventura County, Calif. and neighboring areas.

Within hours of being harvested, the chilis arrive at the plant, ready to be ground and

The Huy Fong Foods Company is the only facility that produces Sriracha. It spans 650,000 square feet and produces at least 200,000 bottles daily. The demand has been so high (especially overseas) that Tran told The Daily News that by 2017, the Irwindale facility will be outgrown.

In the past five years he hasn’t added any new accounts, due to lack of room.

But all is not well for David Tran and Huy Fong Foods. There is a price for all of their success, and the price is rather smelly. During chili–harvesting season, intense, spicy odors fill the air of

code.” This past November, the factory was deemed a public nuisance, and parts of production were stopped. Sriracha is still being made, but Tran was given a 90–day period to figure out how to tackle the pungent fumes. He said that he fears what will happen when that period is over this summer. If the problem still exists, city officials will enter the facility and stop it themselves.

Huy Fong Foods was wanted, badly, by Irwindale in the first place—so much so that they funded the $40 million site.

The factory put the town on the map and provides hundreds of jobs. It brings money to the local economy, and benefits the taxpayers of Irwindale. At one time, Irwindale welcomed Sriracha with open arms. Now with this government obstruction, however, it seems as though they’ve changed their minds.

This could result a Sriracha–pocalypse... or, there could just be a major shortage of Sriracha. If that happens, then prices will spike immensely, and we’ll have to shell out way more for a bottle. In a few months, Sriracha may not be as ubiquitous as it is now, or it could significantly change in quality due to differences in soil or climate where chilis are grown.

Photo courtesy of observationdeck.io9.com

Irwindale, causing residents itchy and watery eyes, bloody noses, respiratory and asthmatic problems and coughing fits.

Residents told city officials that they were forced to remain indoors during these three months of the year. Tran has been trying to combat the issue ever since production began, to no avail.

In early 2013, the city of Irwindale sued Huy Fong Foods, claiming that the odor of ground chilis were “violating municipal

But fear not—there are many potential resolutions that could prevent a Sriracha– pocalypse. There is the option of relocating; they’re wanted most by Texas.

Republican U.S. Senator Ted Cruz of Houston tweeted: “Siracha may not be welcome in California, but you’d be welcomed with open arms and eager taste buds in Texas.” Tran has received several offers and has even heard from the San Fernando Valley, where the factory would thrive. Some cities would do anything to bring in that kind of industry. Or, Tran could develop some sort of system that would filter the harsh scent and prohibit it from being released into the local air.

Photo courtesy of seriouseats.com

Sriracha has some defense to their case.

The town of Irwindale has a population of less than 1,500—it’s barely suburban. The town is comprised mainly of gravel pits, quarries, and nature. It’s the perfect place to produce a niche product like Sriracha, and has contributed millions of dollars to the state economy.

David Tran will not move his company, saying “We’re not leaving, but we need to go… My dream is Sriracha, hot sauce made in USA that ships all over the globe.

I promise that I won’t go overseas… I build in USA,” he told The Daily News.

While they will most likely remain in Irwindale, Huy Fong will definitely see an expansion elsewhere.

Sriracha has become a commodity in American kitchens and has made the US even more of a melting pot, bringing a taste of Asia into typical American cuisine. But anything could happen in the coming months. If the case all boils over, everyone will get burned—the consumers, the company and its workers, the town of Irwindale and the state of California. Hopefully, there will be a compromise. And hopefully, the compromise will be in Huy Fong’s benefit—because we’d prefer not to find a Sriracha alternative, and we think the spice is right!

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Guatemala, The Land of Eternal Spring

by Sarah Fielding

Mayan. The rites of both traditions are combined in the church’s ceremonies.

Our next stop was eating at a beautiful lake on our ride back to Guatemala City.

The countryside of Guatemala is breathtaking–the sight of pine and palm trees that spread together on mountains upon mountains was remarkable. Upon arrival in Guatemala City, we ate and soon went to bed to rest before our 4 a.m. adventure the following morning.

temples and pyramids. The tallest temple is ninety meters high. I admit when I heard that most of the other temples were being closed when people fell from them to their deaths, I became a little wary.

However, many flights of wooden stairs had been attached to the side of the temple and I refused to not take advantage of this once in a lifetime opportunity. It was amazing, standing inches away from a huge drop looking over the rainforest. No picture could accurately capture its (and Guatemala’s) wonder.

Monday brought us to the city of Tikal. It is home to a forgotten Mayan City filled with

When my mom and I were deciding where we wanted to go during my spring break, our original thought was Paris. It is one of the most luxurious cities in the world and one she had always wanted to show me. However, we heard about tours and deals in Guatemala and began to look into it. In the end we chose, along with my stepdad, to head to Central America.

The second we arrived in Guatemala I felt like I was in a different world. Yes, it was two in the morning our time and I was sleep deprived, but that wasn’t it. All the entitlement you feel living in the United States and not knowing hunger or poverty seems so, for lack of a better word, foreign.

We woke up early the first morning and left the capital, Guatemala City, to embark on our two–day tour. Our first stop was

the historic town of Antigua. Being a history nerd and remembering learning about it in school, I was ecstatic. We went to a crypt and saw many beautiful churches. The most amazing sight was when we were there to see a volcano that started erupting.

After that, we were off to the town of Chichicastenango, a town long left behind by modern civilization (except, of course, for my hotel’s perfect Wi–Fi.) After spending the night in a beautiful room, listening to wild dogs barking all night, we headed to a huge outdoor market. This is a place known for extreme pickpocketing so we left everything except currency in our room. There were beautiful handmade rugs–one of which I bought– bags, bracelets and much more. We also discovered that Chichicastenango has the only church that is half Catholic and half

Photography by Sarah Fielding

Book Review: “The Responsible Company: What We’ve Learned from Patagonia’s First 40 Years”

by Hermina Sobhraj

Patagonia, a leading brand in high–end outdoor clothing, is widely regarded as one of the world’s most sustainable companies today. “The Responsible Company,” written by Yvon Chouinard, the founder, and Vincent Stanley, vice president of wholesale, is a company biography narrating the steps Patagonia took to becoming the establishment it is today.

In the beginning, Chouinard and Stanley blatantly alert the reader: “You should

know that at its beginning Patagonia was meant to be not a risk–taking, environment–obsessed, navel–gazing company...

Patagonia was to be our irresponsible company, bringing in easy money….”

This is what makes “The Responsible Company” a worthwhile read. What the reader gets is a straightforward, brutally honest account of how Patagonia rose, failed and rose again as a strictly environmentally friendly company. The authors

spare no details, highlighting Patagonia’s most embarrassing trial and errors at its inception and their most triumphant steps towards change.

While the book provides a substantial account of the company’s transformation, it also serves a higher purpose. It illuminates one of the biggest misconceptions in business today: that sustainability is not profitable.

“The Responsible Company” provides the reader with comprehensive stories, projects and encounters that prove that being profitable does not have to come at the expense of the environment. It is the gateway to true change in any industry, laying out the steps for any business to become sustainable and profitable at the same time. A quick, seven–chapter read, “The Responsible Company” provides valuable business lessons that many corporations would do well to follow.

HAUTE CULTURE

FIT

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Film Review:

The Tribeca Film Festival’s Greatest Hits

by Ciara McManus

For the past thirteen years, Tribeca Film Festival has quietly and dramatically influenced the NYC film scene.

The festival, founded by Robert De Niro and Jane Rosenthal, heavily focuses on character–driven films rather than big–budget blockbusters. This year’s films ranged from zombie beavers to intense explorations of mental illness to not–so–cliché love triangles. Although I missed the wackiest zombie beaver flick ever, I was able to catch quite a few films over the course of the event, four of which, for one reason or another, moved me.

Gabriel

Night Moves

Dior And I

Palo Alto

Rory Culkin dominates every scene of “Gabriel,” as he jarringly portrays a mentally disturbed late– teen, in writer–director Lou Howe’s indie debut. Gabriel (Culkin) has been released from an asylum, when his family warns him this will be his last chance to prove he can swallow his meds and survive outside of confinement.

Gabriel’s quixotic plan for an idealistic and normal life includes locating (by stalking) and marrying his childhood crush, Alice, whom he has not seen in years. Howe’s screenplay reveals a highly unstable character, escaping from his home and family any chance he gets. The film forces the viewer on an exhaustive, disheartened quest and to consider the effect of medicating mental illness. All in all, it’s an exceptional look inside how the mentally ill trudge through life’s everyday occurrences.

Jesse Eisenberg, Dakota Fanning and Peter Sarsgaard star in director Kelly Reichardt’s dark narrative following the radical eco–terrorist trio as they plot to bomb an Oregon hydroelectric dam. The group, comprised of a soft–spoken farm worker (Eisenberg), disillusioned high society dropout (Fanning) and ex–marine (Sarsgaard), decides to follow through with the plan for their own unknown reasons, but the unforeseen consequences affect them all similarly. When the bombing aftermath appears on the news the next morning, the characters struggle with the morality and longevity of extreme environmentalism.

Frederic Tcheng’s documentary tells an intimate story of the makers and creators behind Dior’s haute couture. Tcheng follows Belgian designer Raf Simons as he assumes the position of creative director at Dior, following him for eight weeks up until the day of his debut couture show. The film captures the humble and tenacious artist during his success and failures, revealing the immense pressure the designer felt – with all odds stacked against him – as his first couture collection was underway. But, more important than the story of the creative director, owner and top executives of the brand, is that of the behind–closed–doors French speaking seamstresses who have dedicated their careers to hand beading, sewing and draping to construct Dior gowns. The amount of dedication, determination and love the people behind these handmade garments have for the extensive work they do for a single collection, without a single glimpse of recognition, is astonishing.

Gia Coppola’s directorial debut and interpretation of James Franco’s novel is a completely different story than that of the book. Coppola selected which few of Franco’s short stories to include, adapted and wove a compelling script and pinpointed a tale of teenage malaise. At its core, the film follows an almost–relationship between April (Emma Roberts) and Teddy (Jack Kilmer), a pair of high schoolers prone to reckless behavior and affiliating with the wrong crowd. Fred (Nat Wolff), Teddy’s best bro, slides deeper into the pit of teenage darkness, just as Teddy slowly starts to pull himself out. Franco’s turn in the film as predatory soccer coach, Mr. B, shows yet another male in a position of power over teenage characters (in this case with April – a player on his soccer team and babysitter for his son). It’s an oddly recurring tale that Franco somehow makes even more disturbing, but in a profoundly more believable manner.

Theater Review:

The Cripple of Inishmaan

by Megan Venere

“Is there singing in this?” Audiences coming for some song and dance were in for a disappointment during the preview performances of “The Cripple of Inishmaan,” the 1997 dark comedy written by British playwright Martin McDonagh and now starring Daniel Radcliffe.

“The Cripple of Inishmaan” marks the first performance of the new theater company formed by Michael Grandage, who also directed the production. Grandage is known for his work at the Donmar Warehouse, where he held the post of Artistic Director for 10 years.

The play was inspired by Robert J. Flaherty’s 1934 documentary “The Man of Aran,” a film centered on the rural lifestyles of the residents of the Aran Islands off the western coast of Ireland. The play is set on the island of Inishmaan in the 1930s and focuses on Billy (Radcliffe), affectionately known as “Cripple Billy” among the residents of the island. Billy lives with his foster aunts Kate and Eileen Osbourne (Ingrid Craigie and Gillian Hanna), who worry, fuss and dote on their ward. As Johnnypateenmike, the island gossip, comes for his eggs and daily

tell–all of important news at the store the Osbournes own, he reveals that there is a crew from Hollywood coming to film a movie on the neighboring island and they are looking to cast local residents in the film. Billy, who passes the time reading books and staring at cows in the fields, sees this as his opportunity. He receives little support from the townspeople, including Helen and Bartley McCormick (Sarah Greene and Conor MacNeill), both of whom attempt to pursue roles in the film. Billy enlists Babbybobby (Padraic Delaney) to help him get to the audition, in hopes of getting out of Inishmaan for good and starting a new life for himself.

leg is stiff the entire show to portray the handicapped character) it’s a wonder he is standing at the curtain call for his bow.

One of the star performers in the show is Sarah Greene as Helen, who is both a ruthless tease to her brother Bartley and also a gentle friend to Billy at the end of the play. Christopher Oram, set and costume designer of the production, brings rural Inishmaan to life for the audience with tactile and raw sets that give the true

sense of what living in the Aran Islands must be like. And with a circular set that rotates throughout the production à la “Les Miserables,” the audience is fully immersed in the textures and colors of this tiny and insignificant island.

The Michael Grandage Company’s production of “The Cripple of Inishmaan” runs until July 20 at the Cort Theatre.

What is wonderful about this play is that it is absolutely hilarious, yet manages to tell a poignant coming–of–age story. Billy is desperately trying to figure out who he is beyond “Cripple Billy” and his tragic past, none of which is ever revealed to him throughout the play. The company itself and the performance of each actor is captivating and moving throughout the production. Radcliffe gets his daily exercise in each performance playing Billy; the role is so physically demanding (Radcliffe’s arm is twisted and right Photo courtesy of justjaredjr.com

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MONTH IN REVIEW

by Dara Kenigsberg

The Creeping Heroin Crisis “Heroin is pummeling the Northeast, leaving addiction, overdoses and fear in its wake,” stated James Hunt, special agent in charge of the New York office of the Drug Enforcement Administration.

According to CNN.com, “A 2012 survey by the Federal Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration found that about 669,000 people over age 12 had used heroin at some point in the year. About 156,000 of those people were first–time users and roughly 467,000 were considered heroin–dependent – more than double the number in 2002.”

The survey also found that 4.6 million individuals have reported using heroin at some point in their lives and that the average age of a first time user is 23.

However, compared to other drugs, these numbers are low. In 2012, 31 million

people used marijuana or hashish and another 4.7 million used some form of cocaine. Robert Parkinson, director of the Beachcomber Rehabilitation Center in Delray Beach, Florida told CNN.com, “It’s not at an epidemic level yet, but it’s going to be there. It’s that bad.”

Stricter regulations surrounding the prescription and sale of prescription opiates (like OxyContin) and a decline in the price of heroin due to greater supply from cartels are the two main factors contributing to this resurgence of heroin use. Greater supply has also led to a recent uptick of heroin use on college campuses as well as in suburban and rural areas. In comparison to other addicting drugs, heroin is especially easy to get hooked on and more difficult to detox from. Much purer heroin

is also being sold. In the past, heroin was often cut with so much filler that the only way to get high was through injection.

According to TIME, “The purer versions currently available can be smoked or snorted, which make them more appealing to teenagers, the college–educated and people who normally wouldn’t come near it for fear of the needle…When you can snort it as opposed to inject it, it widens the audience for heroin.”

What was once seen as an inner–city problem is now reaching across all demographics. According to TheFix.com, “In New York City alone, deaths from heroin overdose increased 84 percent between 2010 and 2012, but the city’s suburbs and smaller communities have also been rocked by the rise in drug use.” Over

the span of one week in February, three people under the age of 30 died from a heroin overdose in Westchester County.

In January, 22 people died in Western Pennsylvania from overdosing on heroin laced with fentanyl and in Vermont, it has become such a problem that the Governor dedicated his entire State of the State Message in January to it.

Andrew, a 19–year old from Pennsylvania who did not want to reveal his last name, overdosed twice on the same batch of heroin that killed 22 others. He told CNN. com, “That’s the sick thing about addiction. When someone knows that there are heroin bags that are killing people or making them overdose, then we know that those are the good bags.”

Sewol Ferry Sinks

Pro–Russia Rebels Take

off the Coast of

Hostages in Ukraine

South Korea April 16, 2014 marked a somber day for South Korea. What began as a routine trip to Jeju, a resort island considered to be the Hawaii of Korea, ended in tragedy when the Sewol ferry sank off the southern coast near Jindo, south of Seoul, leaving 302 people either dead or missing. 325 of the passengers were students from Danwon High School attending a field trip for school. Just before 9 a.m., an unidentified crew member contacted local maritime traffic control, and asked them to notify the Coast Guard that they were sinking. Within 30 minutes the ferry was already at an angle of 50 degrees, yet they had told the passengers to stay where they were. They did not follow protocol and because of this, many lives were lost that could have been saved.

Photo courtesy of seanews.com

Captain Moon Ye–shik was at the helm of the first ship to arrive to aid with the rescue. He told CNN, “The ship was listing (badly), 30 to 40 degrees. It was in such a bad condition, anyone would assume evacuation was well underway.” 20 minutes after the first SOS, when Moon and his crew were 200 meters away and ready to deploy life rafts, he radioed with a crewmember on the Sewol and advised him to tell the passengers to escape. According to CNN, “A full ten minutes later the [crewmember] was still asking – ‘if we escape, can they be rescued?’” In emergencies,

the captain of the ship should be the one on the radio because he has more experience and knows what to do in these situations. However, the captain was nowhere to be found because he had already escaped, leaving behind in danger all of his passengers.

The captain of the Sewol, Lee Joon–seok, has been charged with abandoning his boat, causing bodily injury, negligence for not seeking rescue from other ships and for violating the country’s marine law, the Rescue and Aid at Sea and in the River Act. 14 other crewmembers have also been arrested and are being held, along with the captain, in Mopko prison. On April 28, South Korean officials arrested three more people on suspicion of destroying evidence.

They also raided a Coast Guard office due to the speculation that the first emergency call was mishandled. According to CNN, “Investigators are looking into possible dereliction of duty.”

A teenage boy who died on the ferry had shot a cellphone video of his final minutes.

It was recovered with the memory card intact, along with his body and returned to his father, who then turned the clip over to South Korean national TV network JTBC. In it, you can hear the final words of some of the passengers, “Why can’t they tell us what’s going on?” “Wow, it’s tilting a lot.

We’re tilting to this side. Can’t move.” “You think I’m really gonna die?” The clip also captured the orders coming through the ferry’s loudspeakers, “Once again, please do not move from your current location,” a voice says. “Absolutely do not move.”

Ed Note: The confirmed death toll currently stands at 242.

Photo courtesy of theanalystreport.net

The southeast city of Slovyansk, Ukraine has become a hotbed for violence, protest and now, hostage taking. According to The Wall Street Journal, pro–Russian militants “began taking hostages this month, including American journalist Simon Ostrovsky, who was later released. They have held other journalists, pro–Kiev activists and people they have accused of being far–right Ukrainian nationalist provocateurs. Many have been held in a Ukrainian security service building in Slovyansk, that the militants seized in early April where they are also holding the city’s elected mayor.” On April 25, 13 more hostages were seized at a makeshift checkpoint in Kramatorsk, one of whom was later released. Seven of them are Western military observers and inspectors, members of their home countries’ militaries. They are also a part of an inspection team that had arrived in Ukraine under an Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe pact called the Vienna Document. The Vienna Document sets guidelines for exchanging military information and hosting inspections. The other five are Ukrainian soldiers who were escorting them.

Vyacheslav Ponomaryov, the self–appointed, pro–Russia mayor of Slovyansk, held a news conference on April 27 featuring the seven inspectors who are being held hostage and have been accused of being spies for NATO. According to The Wall Street Journal, “‘We have no indication when we will be sent home to our

countries and to see our families,’ Axel Schneider, the German colonel leading the mission, told the news conference.

‘The conditions…are not clear to us. It is not us [who] determine the decisions.’

Col. Schneider said the European team initially stayed in a basement but was then moved to a place with heat and air conditioning. He said they were traveling on diplomatic passports, adding that he didn’t know the whereabouts of the Ukrainians or anything about their welfare.”

According to DailyMail.co.uk, “Officials in Kiev and Moscow saw they have plans to free the monitors from the Organization for Security and Cooperation… but Mr. Ponomaryov claimed this would not happen until newly imposed sanctions freezing assets and banning travel on two separatist leaders are lifted.”

The total number of people targeted by these sanctions comes to 48. According to CNN, “The targets include Dmitry Kozak, Russia’s deputy prime minister; Russian military chief Valery Gerasimov; and pro– Russian separatists in Ukraine, including Denis Pushilin, the self–declared leader of the ‘Donetsk People’s Republic.’” The Russian Foreign Ministry responded to these sanctions in a statement on their website that said, “Instead of making the Kiev faction sit at the negotiating table with southeastern Ukraine, our partners follow Washington’s lead with new unfriendly gestures regarding Russia,” calling the action taken by the EU, “a direct invitation for local neo–Nazis to continue to promote anarchy and outrages regarding the civilians of the southeast.” It concluded by asking, “Aren’t you ashamed?”

Despite the backlash, which was to be expected, according to CNN, U.S. Secretary of State John Kerry pledged that, “NATO would stand united to defend its members’ territorial integrity.”

FIT SPEAKS Is Digital Really Greener?

by Yesica Balderrama

Illustrations by Kelly Millington

Digital publishing is championed as being the greener alternative to print.

Less printing means less paper, trees are spared, and CO2 emissions decrease, right? What about the energy used to make digital devices? The energy consumed while using the digital devices?

What happens to the devices we discard?

Neither print nor web is better than the other when it comes to preserving the environment. Print and web publications are produced and consumed differently and have different effects on the environment. Print involves ink, plates, plant emissions, print production and disposal, while digital involves content production, electricity and devices.

Digital publishing has grown rapidly over the past few years. Mobile, tablet and web design provide new platforms for publishing and information can be accessed from any place at any time. Established publications are transitioning to reach newer and broader audiences, but this is hardly the first time print was threatened by another medium. Before the Internet, there was television, radio, telephone and the phonograph.. According to an article by Octave Uzanne titled, “The End of Books,” the latter was expected to replace printing in 1894. Two centuries later, print has survived, and it is unlikely print will ever completely vanish or be replaced.

Trees are destroyed to make paper, but electronic devices are made from toxic materials discarded into the environment and require electricity to run.

Devices contain beryllium, mercury, tin, cadmium, polyvinyl chloride and lead.

They release harmful hydrocarbons and dioxins, which cause health and pollution problems. The waste is then dumped in other countries, largely in Guiyu, China.

Workers in these electronic dumping grounds scour the waste to disassemble it, or to recapture parts.

Since digital publishing is acquiring a negative stigma, print publishing appears to be a lesser of two evils. Paper is one of the most recycled materials in the world.

Environmental organizations are spreading awareness, encouraging recycling and regulating resources, among them the American Tree Farm System and the Sustainable Forest Initiative, which aims to preserve forests. There are now vegetable–based inks and recycling solvents to reduce waste.

The amount of energy saved depends on factors such as the amount of energy used to produce the material, and the time spent using it. Web, in contrast to print, can decrease the amount of energy consumed. Reading an hour of print produces 28–kilograms of CO2, compared to the 35–kilograms of CO2 that result from an hour on the web. The same amount of energy used to make 200–kilograms of paper,which is the average amount consumed per person, powers a computer for five months.

Perhaps it is the portable convenience of digital devices that makes us less conscientious. When we use books we have to acknowledge the space and weight they occupy, how much paper was used,

and what materials were used to make it. When we throw away paper, we have to see how much of it was thrown away, but we cannot see how many web pages we have read in our hands or how many hours a week we charged our laptops and cell phones. Throwing away a small cell phone is not as heart wrenching as is a stack of last semester’s printouts, which can at least be placed in the recycle bin.

The process is purchase, use and discard.

It is easy to click, plug and connect on a daily basis without thinking of how much energy we are using. Newer cellphones, tablets and devices are produced annually, and it is hard not to get carried away with having the latest iPhone or gadget. The current lifespan for a cell phone is less than two years, and the average lifespan of a laptop is two years. More is being produced and wasted every year.

So what can be done? The efforts to reduce print waste are working, and the goal has shifted to reducing electronic waste. How? Reducing the energy used to make and use them, using recyclable or non–toxic materials to manufacturing electronic devices and improving quality to make them durable and longer lasting.

On an individual level, we can choose not to buy that new laptop, purchase solar powered chargers or devices, find places that recycle electronic devices, unplug our chargers when we are not using them, turn off our computers at night and be mindful of how long and why we use our devices. Unfortunately, my Tumblr blogs are not going to update themselves.

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OYB: Dumbo, Brooklyn

by Dana Heyward

DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) is certainly more than just an acronym. This waterfront neighborhood is home to a number of gutted warehouses and factories, bakeries, galleries and boutiques nestled between the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges.

Whether you’re looking to buy some Swedish furniture, find your new favorite contemporary artist or just lay and unwind by the East River, DUMBO is your place.

variety of vintage items. The boutique’s decor is charming but the strong musky scent that fills the store is a remnant of its vintage store provenance; the attempt to cloak that smell in heavy cologne is, frankly, not that successful. In addition to the numerous shops on Front Street that could take hours to scurry through, the various cross streets of cobblestone streets also provide incredible views of the bridges and Manhattan skyline.

Front Street is home to a number of small businesses ranging from women’s clothing boutiques, unusual furniture stores and old fashioned candy shops. The Shops on Front Street carry a number of small jewelry shops, specialty bath stores, showrooms and even a barbershop.

Right next to the Shops is Dewey’s Candy. If your sweet tooth allegiance is to places like Dylan’s Candy Bar or It’s Sugar, you should give Dewey’s a shot.

Once you enter, you’re met with a lollipop chandelier that sits above all the candy your heart could ever desire. Candy is stored in buckets and glass Mason jars to give you a vintage candy shop feel and offer selections that either remind you of your own childhood or your grandparents’.

While it’s a little pricey, it’s definitely worth it and the highlight of any trip to Brooklyn.

The Front General Store is a charming little boutique that sits right next to Dewey’s. If you like stores like Saturdays NYC and low–key still–like Urban Outfitters, you’ll probably love this store too! While it primarily sells men’s streetwear clothing, the store also offers a number of botanicals, hardware and a

Photo courtesy of Dana Heyward

While you may be yearning for the praiseworthy Grimaldi’s Pizza, just know that it’s a bit of a tourist trap. Instead head to Front Street Pizza for some authentic eats. This handmade pizza place has numerous toppings and at a reasonable price. Once you feel like you’re through with Front Street, don’t head to the Brooklyn Bridge Park just yet! Right on the corner of Water Street is One Girl Cookie. While their miniature desserts are definitely the main attraction, the bakery also offers a select wine and beer menu and free Wi–Fi. After purchasing your mini treats, you can finally proceed to the park.

You probably can’t say that you have really ever viewed Manhattan until you’ve seen it from across the river. You can relax while laying on the grass or opt to make your way to the beach area to take in the sometimes overwhelming city, from a new viewpoint.

At the center of the park is Jane’s Carousel. The carousel was created in 1922 and sits right alongside the East River, giving some incredible views of the Manhattan skyline. It has been restored and fitted with watertight panels to prevent future storm damage since the tragic devastation caused by Hurricane Sandy in 2012. But something about the carousel gave me weird, “Are You Afraid Of The Dark?” vibes (childhood memories I don’t feel like re–living), so I kept my distance, but if that’s you’re thing, by all means.

Once you’ve soaked up the view and all that DUMBO has to offer, take the opportunity to walk across the Brooklyn Bridge, especially if you never have. It’s not as daunting as it may seem.

All in all, DUMBO is the ideal spot for those summer days to spend with friends or the family. You can go on a gallery crawl, buy a Swedish couch, indulge is some cookies and ride a carousel in the quaint neighborhood tucked underneath the Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges.

Alessia De Francesco | Fashion Design | Currently working on making new knit looks from old sweaters, giving them a new purpose, rather than throwing them out

Nadja Frankli–Pryor | Fashion Design | Grows a vegetable garden

Elizabeth Schafer | FMM | Takes public transportation

style on 27 Photography by Jessica Farkas

FIT’s annual Block Party is a ray of sunshine in a storm of projects, finals and end of the year activities. The school’s best and brightest came out to celebrate spring, clad in everything from jumpsuits to jean shorts. We asked them all the same question: what do you do to reduce your carbon footprint?

Sarah Elmachtab | FMM | Walks everywhere

Veronique Ehamo | ITM | Using a reusable water bottle

Ashley Laderer | FMM | Shopping at second hand stores and donating old clothes

Morgan Castilla | AMC | Public transit instead of taxis

Isabelle Castandi | AMC | Recycles