730 TIBAVA

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V I T I C U LT U R E I N T I B AVA A N D I T S S U R R O U N D I N G S

T H E O RIG IN A L LY GOT H I C CH URCH

HISTORY OF THE VILL AGE

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HISTORY OF THE VILLAGE 1282 First written reference; the village already exists as a hamlet.

14th cent. (2nd half) Building of the Gothic church → chapter Parish church.

1351 Louis I. the Great – son of Charles Robert I., who after extinction of the Arpáds (year 1301) was King of Hungary from 1308 until his death; from 1342 also the King of Hungary and Croatia – granted the village the right to hold markets on Tuesday. These were held to the west of the village, on the site where Sobrance was later founded... The village was at the same time the seat of a vast estate.

The originally Gothic church

1413 First written mention of the cultivating of vineyards.

1427 The Tibava estate had 82 ports (Lat. porta = gate, entrance). Veľká Tibava 17, Horná Tibava 23 and Trhová Tibava 42 ports.

15th st. Sobrance and 15 (!) surrounding villages belonged to the castle estate Tibava (Tiba).

1560 ? Protestant preachers worked in the village for a certain period.

17th cent. Founding of a manor house and park with foreign woodland species.

Former lakelet with island

Start of the 18 cent. As a consequence of the estates rebellion, particularly of Francis Rákóczi II. (1676–1735), and a Plague epidemic, the village lost nearly its entire population.

18th cent. (1st half) Baroque remodeling of the church.

1780 First mention of a school. Learning took place in homes.

1828 548 inhabitants live here, in 49 houses.

End of the 19th cent./start of the 20th cent. Great wave of emigration to America. Over the course of the centuries Tibava belonged to the estate of the Sztáray family, which had its seat in Michalovce (today the complex of buildings of the Zemplín Museum, Kostolné nám. ☎ +421 56 / 644 10 93, www.zemplinskemuzeum.sk). Irma Sztáray was the lady-in-waiting of Empress Sisi (1837–1898), the wife of Emporer Franz Jozef I. (1830–1916), and a witness to her murder in Geneva. She is buried in the common grave (!!!) of the Sztáray family on the edge of the cemetery in Sobrance. After 1945 the family tomb impeded construction of a road, so the remains of family members were buried in a single grave...

1938–44 On the basis of the First Vienna Arbitration from 2 Nov. 1938, the village became a part of Horthy’s Hungary (until 28 Oct. 1944 – liberation of the village).

1949 First forced collectivisation.

1952 The planting of the first vineyards in the ownership of the state.

1952 The war-damaged manor house was cleared.

From the renowned park with its small lake only a space with an area of 2.2878 hectares has remained over the centuries. Today protected trees more than 200year old are located here: A London planetree (Platanus hispanica) and a small-leaved lime tree (Tilia cordata).

1957 Origin of the village-wide agricultural cooperative (JRD).

1965 Establishment of viticulture-winemaking works → chapter Viticulture Protected London planetree in Tibava and the surroundings.

1966 The JRD passes into administration of state properties.

2007-2008 Building of the sewage system in the village.

2010-2011 Reconstruction of the village office building and the culture house.

HISTORY OF THE VILL AGE

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PARISH CHURCH OF THE ASSUMPTION OF THE VIRGIN MARY One of the foundation stones of the builders of Gothic cathedrals was the Biblical verse Sed omnia But you have ordered all things in mensura et in measure, and number, numero et pondere disposuisti. and weight.

Book of Wisdom (11, 20b) Gothic is the most advanced medieval building art. It originated in Saint-Denis, at that time the seat of French kings and today part of the northern edge of Paris. It employs ribbed arches, a pointed arch in windows and portals (Lat. porta = gate, entry) and an external support system, which even today alleviates the mass in an unknown way. The windows contain coloured vitrages (Lat. vitrus = glass), which evoke a typical play of light, depending on the position of the sun. The “play” is always different, while the goal always the same: to uplift the spirit and the soul of man...

The local, originally Gothic, Roman-Catholic Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary dates from the second half of the 14th cent. (Košice’s Cathedral of St. Elisabeth began being built in approximately 1380.)

It has a single nave with an ample presbytery (Lat. presbyter = elder, priest, i.e. sacral space). The tower emerges directly from the facade. The sacristy is, as is common, located on the northern side.

The following Gothic elements have been preserved up to the present: the external walls, the supporting pillars on the northern and southern sides of the nave (where an original small window is also located), part of the vault and the broken triumphal arch. This divides the nave of the church from the presbytery. Its name comes from the depiction of the triumph of the Saviour over death, which is depicted at this location in churches.

The church was rebuilt in the Baroque style in the first half of the 18th cent. Baroque is characterised by an ellipse or circle, which represents perfection, because it has no beginning and no end.

Baroque style is bounded approximately by the years 1600–1750.

Its final phase was the rococo style. Baroque was not only an architectural style but also a musical one (A. Vivaldi, J. S. Bach, G. F. Händel, J. Haydn, W. A. Mozart).

The altar painting reThe ceiling painting, presents a typical motif where depictions of of the recatholicisation the Most Holy Trinity – the Marian cult comes and the Assumption to the forefront. The of the Virgin Mary name of the painter and predominate, is from the year it was done has 1906. The artist is not been recorded.

Imrich Štefaník.

On the left, in the center of the church, is a special space – during the Christmas holidays a Nativity is placed here; during the Easter holidays the tomb of Christ, and the rest of the year it serves as a space for mothers with children.

On the first wall is a striking relief of nobleman Ladislav Pribek from the 16th century.

More than a century ago, in 1906, the church was expanded.

Its capacity is: 220 places for sitting and 250 for standing.

It is not known how long the organ has been installed in the local church.

Liturgical changes which followed from the 2nd Vatican Council (lat. versus populum = towards the people), i. e. the new Lord‘s table, ambon, and other parts, were installed in 1976–77.

SUNDIAL On the southern facade of the church is a simple sundial. The author put the following chronogram together on the occasion of the 730th anniversary of the first written reference to the village:

I Pass EX UMBRA from shadow AD LVCEM –VERITATEM ! into Light – to Truth!

Latin: I+M+V+V+I+M = 2012 The parish house in the village is quite old. Its establishment is probably associated with the construction of a Gothic church, which was certainly not the first in Tibava. The holy day for the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is celebrated on 15 August.

It’s worth noting that in the western part of the village there also stood a Reformed (Calvinist) church. This was completely destroyed by German army units from Sobrance during shelling in battles with the Red Army, which liberated Tibava on 28 Oct. 1944.

The church has been a national cultural landmark since 1963.

T H E O RIG IN A L LY GOT H I C CH URCH

At first glance the painted vault captivates the viewer. The technique of illusionary paintings creates an impression of space. Religious themes were thus made available to the faithful – “a view to heaven”.

The same technique is also partially applied on the walls, where there are scenes from the New Testament. The church was last painted in 1968.

VITICULTURE IN TIBAVA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS Grapes have been cultivated in Tibava from time immemorial, “officially” for 599 years now. The first written reference dates from 1413.

A new beginning is connected with the year 1952, when the first large-scale vineyards were planted in the area of the village.

In the end even the name of the village is exceptionally suitable as a wine label from the marketing point of view ... TIBAVÍN (“Tiba wine”).

A radical change occurred in 1965 when the viticulture and winemaking plant and the well-known Tibava wine cellar were established. Renowned brands of wine were produced here: Tibavín, Frankovka (Blaufränkisch), Rizling rínsky (Riesling) and Tramín, which represented both local growers and wine-growers both here and abroad. A great milestone is the year 2000, when the company Pivnica Tibava, s. r. o., successfully became involved in the best traditions of local viticulture.

The company Pivnica Tibava, s. r. o., produces communion wine for the Greek-Catholic Church. The criteria for production are very strict.

The owner of the company has vowed in writing to strictly observe all technological processes during the cultivation and processing of grapes.

In practice this means that the grape must be of first-class grade, that no sugar or any other unpermitted additives can be added. The decree is valid for five years. It is interesting to note that until the year 1478 only red wine was used during Mass. Then, for practical reasons, the Catholic Church showed a preference for white wine.

The technology of production at the grounds of winemakers in Sobrance meets the highest criteria of EU norms. Among the four large growers of grapes and makers of wine in the Sobrance region, it is the largest by far – it owns approximately 180 ha of vineyards and produces about 1.2 million litres of wine, depending on the harvest.

The production of good wine from time immemorial has required experience, craftsmanship (in today’s words: technology), but primarily great care.

Vinum bonum (Lat. good wine), was also acknowledged by the author of the Psalm, when he wrote: Et vinum, quod laetificat cor hominis, …

(And wine that maketh glad the heart of man, …), Psalm (104, 15a).

Wine matures in classic barrels

Operations in Sobrance

In antique mythology the Greeks called their god of wine Διόνυσος (Dionysos) and the Romans called theirs Bacchus. Their mythical forms have in the past been painted by the most important masters of the brush (for example, Leonardo da Vinci, Caravaggio, Diego Velázquez).

V I T I C U LT U R E I N T I B AVA A N D I T S S U R R O U N D I N G S

This is stated concisely by the evangelist Matthew (9:17a): Neque mittunt vinum novum in utres veteres (Neither do men put new wine into old wineskins).

TIBAVA

200 km 400 km The village belongs to the Sobrance District and lies in the Eastern Slovakia lowlands at an elevation of 130 m. The international road E50 passes through it. It has 541 residents.

Road distances in km: TIBAVA: – Sobrance: 3; – Michalovce: 24; – Košice: 83; Vyšné Nemecké (border with Ukraine): 10; – Užhorod (UA): 16.

– Ruská Bystrá: 22; the wooden Greek-Catholic Church of St. Nicholas the Bishop from 1720–30, from 2008 recorded in the UNESCO List of World Cultural Heritage sites. ☎ +421 56 / 658 40 71 (Village office).

– Zemplínska Šírava (Kaluža centre): 24; –Morské oko: 24; Stakčín: 45; starting point to the POLONINY National Park (NP Administration: Ulica Mieru 193, 067 61 Stakčín, ☎ +421 57 / 768 41 87, www.sopsr.sk) – Kremenec 95; (1210 m a.s.l., above the village of Nová Sedlica, the hill where the borders of three countries meet: SK – PL – UA).

Names of the village during its history: 1282 – Tyboa 1419 – Felsewtyba, Wasarostyba a. n.

1284 – Tyba Zobranch, Nagtyba, 1344 – Eghazas Tyba Waynatynatyba 1346 – Tyba Inferior (Lat. Lower) 1808 – Tybawa, Cybawa 1352 – Tyba, que Komorouch nunc 19th cent. – Hungarian: Tiba (*) appellatur (Lat. Tyba, which 1927 – Slovak: Tibava is now called Komorouch) Number of residents in the past century: • 1921 – 694; • 1940 – 726; • 1970 – 700.

Source: Milan Bohucký, TIBAVA and its histocial transformations, MKS Tibava 1984, pgs. 10, 25 Note: the Latin translation, however (*), is not from this source.

Tibava and its surroundings were a small cereal pantry. This is shown in the dark chambers behind the back rooms of the farmhouses. These were graineries (“sýpance”), in which stocks of cereals both old and new were stored. This is the source of the village coat-of-arms.

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© Jozef Soročin, 2012 | www.issuu.com/VydSorocinJ © Design & Layout: Jozef Soročin, Jr., www.sorocin.carbonmade.com © Photography: Peter Olekšák, peter.oleksak@centrum.sk © Translation: David McLean, dlm_slovakia@hotmail.com © For the Village Office of Tibava 131, SK–073 01 Sobrance • ☎ +421 56 / 652 22 71 ocu.tibava@lekosonline.sk • www.tibava.ocu.sk, vydal: Jozef Soročin, Martina Rázusa 1848/6, 071 01 Michalovce, sorocin23@gmail.com © Printer: Rotaprint, s. r. o., Barčianska 68, SK–040 17 Košice

NEARBY LANDMARKS AND PLACES OF INTEREST Vihorlat (1076 m a.s.l.) – symbol of this region – visitors can reach it along the marked hiking path from the village of Poruba pod Vihorlatom.

UNESCO wooden church in Ruská Bystrá first August Saturday, 2012 • Near Zemplínská Šírava, at the end of the dam from Lúčky to Jovsa, several species of rare and protected water birds nest here. The dam is accessible on foot or bicycle.

• Morské oko – a lake of volcanic origin – lies at an elevation of 618 m above sea level, is 775 m long, 312 m wide and 25 m deep. An oasis of peace and a starting point for Sninský kameň (1005 m a.s.l.), from which a beautiful view is available.

• Senné rybníky – a national nature reserve. One of the most significant ornithological sites in Central Europe.

• The surroundings of Tibava, the diverse nature and untouched Carpathian beech wildwoods, the rarest parts of which have since 2007 been recorded in the UNESCO World List of Natural Heritage, offer year-round opportunities for active recreation.

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus)

Field poppy (Papaver rhoeas)

UNESCO sites Wine-making villages Gothic landmarks Protected areas of the EU

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UBI PATRIA, IBI BENE: A man lives well where his country lies

CYCLING ROUTE Tibava (route 566) – Choňkovce – Podhoroď – – Ruský Hrabovec – Ruská Bystrá* *the wooden Greek-Catholic Church of St. Nicholas the Bishop, built in 1720–30, Since 2008 registered with UNESCO 22 km | difficulty: medium Adjoining W A L K I N G or C Y C L I N G R O U T E Ruská Bystrá – Pod dielom – Pilníkova lúka – – Falašov potok – Remetské Hámre Marked in the field in 2009.

Route length: 14 km | ascent: +540, descent -402 m time: 3:45 h | difficulty: medium | Suitable for cyclists – but difficult! Continuation to Morské oko: 8 km; 22 km | difficulty: medium Tibava (route 566) – Choňkovce – Podhoroď – – Beňatina – Inovce – Tibava 34 km | difficulty: hard Tibava – Sobrance – Morské oko – Sobrance – Tibava Tibava – Sobrance – Ruskovce – Jasenov – Remetské Hámre – Morské oko – Sobrance – Tibava 50 km | difficulty: medium Tibava – Sobrance – Zemplínska Šírava – Michalovce – Tibava Tibava – Sobrance – Ruskovce – Jasenov – Poruba p. Vihorlatom – Z. Šírava – Michalovce and back 66 km | difficulty: easy Tibava – Sobrance – Senné rybníky – Sobrance – Tibava Tibava – Sobrance – Ostrov – Porostov – Kristy – Svätuš – Blatná Polianka – Blatné Remety – Senné rybníky and back 40 km | difficulty: easy CYCLOMARATHON Tibava (route 566) – Choňkovce – Ruský Hrabovec (turnoff for Ruská Bystrá*) – Ubľa – Kolonica (Astronomical observatory**) – Stakčín (blue sign) – Starina (reservoir) – Dara – Príslop – Karcaba – Príslop (village) – Topoľa (cross-road) – – Kolbasov (village) – Ruský Potok (cross-road) – Ulič (village) – Uličské Krivé (village) – Zboj (village) – Nová Sedlica (village) and back *see the 1st route; **astrokolonica.sk, ☎ +421 57 / 767 43 48 166 km | difficulty: hard We also recommend the map SHOCART HORNÝ ZEMPLÍN, POLONINY, no. 236, M 1:100 000.