SPIŠ CASTLE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS

U N E S CO I N S P I Š

PART 1

THE SPIŠ CHAPTER

A B R IEF H I S TO RY OF T H E C AS TL E

THE SPIŠ REGION AND ITS CASTLE

SPIŠ CASTLE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS

THE SPIŠ REGION AND ITS CASTLE Spiš (Latin Scepusium, German Zips, Polish Spisz, Hungarian Szepes). The region below the most majestic of castles, the High and Low Tatra mountains, Pieniny, the Slovak Ore Hills and Slovak Paradise, with four rivers flowing through it – Hhbja jaornád, Hnilec, Poprad and Dunajec along the northern border. This region with an area of 3660 km2 is home to 320 000 people. The largest towns are Poprad, Spišská Nová Ves, Kežmarok, Levoča and Stará Ľubovňa.

The first written mention of Spiš dates from the year 1209. The Hungarian king Andreas II made a gift of the area between Veľká Lomnica, Stará Lesná and Huncovce to Adolf, provost of Spiš, and his sister. The High Tatras were then known as the “Snowy Peaks”.

The symbol and heart of the region is Spiš Castle with its surroundings. The Castle stands on a travertine outcrop, and is itself built from this stone from a quarry on nearby Dreveník. It stands at a height of 634 metres above sea level, with GPS coordinates 49°00’02”N 20°46’06”E. The Castle with its wards and bailey covers an area of 4.4 hectares (roughly seven football pitches), making it the largest in Slovakia and one of the most extensive castle complexes in Central Europe. It has kept its Romanesque and Gothic appearance, which UNESCO acknowledged in 1993 with its entry in the World Heritage List.

Travertine – the name comes from Latin. There are large quarries near the town of Tivoli (Lat. Tibur), just 30 km

What the Castle offers: • 1. A unique sightseeing route around the fortifications and a climb up the look-out tower. From there you can see the panorama of the High Tatras about 40 km away.

• 2. Night-time tours every Saturday in the summer holidays (July-August).

• 3. Exhibitions of archeological finds and military collections, the kitchens and the torture-chamber.

• 4. Historical sword-fighting and falconry shows, medieval theatre performances, scouting events.

• 5. Renovated (2003) interior of Gothic St.Elizabeth’s Chapel, in which services are held occasionally by arrangement.

Opening times April – November: 9:00 – 19:00

December – March: Closed Tel.: +421 53 / 454 13 36 E-mail: muzeum@levonet.sk www.spisskemuzeum.com

Spiš Castle and its surroundings

THE SPIŠ REGION AND ITS CASTLE

east of Rome, and many famous buildings in the Eternal City (urbs aeterna) were built with this white stone. The Romans called it lapis tiburtinum (stone from Tibur), which became tiburtino in old Italian and travertino in its modern form. Like limestone, it is porous, and forms by precipitation and sedimenting of mainly calcium carbonate (CaCO3) from fresh-water sources.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE CASTLE • 11th C. The first circular dwelling tower is built.

• 1241 The fortress resists siege by the Tartars, but they lay waste to the surrounding country.

• 1249 King Adalbert IV supports the building of castles. He gives the provost of Spiš space in this castle to build a tower and palace. The result is the “Provost’s Palace”, the first known addition to the original castle keep.

• 1249 Period of mass arrivals of German settlers, invited by the –1300 Hungarian kings to revive the plundered country. They consist predominantly of miners, craftsmen and traders, and they play a large part in the flourishing of the Spiš re gion. The population census of 1930 recorded 155 000 Germans living in Slovakia (excluding Transcarpathian Ukraine). At present there are 40 000 Germans in Slovakia.

Spring view of Spišské Podhradie • 1412 Hungarian King Sigismund of Luxemburg, son of Char les IV, mortgages 13 of the 24 Spiš towns, a further three towns and several villages to the Polish King Vladislaus II. The mortgage lien is lifted 360 years later by Empress Maria Theresia as part of the first division of Poland in 1772.

• 1443 The Castle is taken by Jan Jiskra of Brandýs, in the servi ces of the Queen of Hungary, Elizabeth of Luxemburg.

He fortifies the great bailey, and the Castle gradually takes on its present-day form and dimensions.

• 1464 King Matthias Corvinus gives the Castle to noblemen Imrich and Štefan Zápoľský, who greatly improve it.They own over 40 castles, but they choose this one as their residence. They remodel the Romanesque palace in Gothic style, and build a new St. Elizabeth’s Chapel. The Castle is the birthplace of the last King of Hungary before the ac cession of the Habsburg dynasty, Ján Zápoľský (1489 – – 1540).

Night-time scene at the Castle

A B R IEF H I S TO RY OF T H E C AS TL E

• 1528 Ján Zápoľský loses the contest for the Hungarian throne.

He does not take part in the Battle of Moháč (1526), and the Emperor confiscates the Castle.

• 1531 The Habsburgs make a gift of the Castle to their creditor Alexi Thurzo. He had especially the upper part of the Castle rebuilt in Renaissance style.

• 1636 The male line of the Thurzov dynasty dies out. The Cast le becomes the property of the Csáky family, who own it for more than 300 years, until 1945. In 1702 their new stately home in nearby Hodkovce is finished, complete with French garden. From 1770 to 1785 they live in another in Bijacovce. Here the architect fulfilled the master’s wishes to the letter, that it should symbolize the year: it has 365 windows, 12 entrances, 52 rooms, 7 halls and nearly 30 chimneys. The Castle continued to be guarded by a permanent garrison of around 100 soldiers.

• 1780 Annus horribilis (horrible year). After a destructive fire the remaining soldiers abandon the Castle. From then on it is deserted and turns into ruins.

• 1961 Castle is declared a national cultural monument.

• 1970 Beginning of extensive archeological research and buil ding work reinforcing fortifications and Castle walls.

• 1983 Public access to the lower ward and museum exhibition.

• 1993 Entry in UNESCO’s World Heritage List – Spiš Castle and its environs (Spišské Podhradie, Spišská Kapitula, Church of the Holy Spirit in Žehra). The Lutheran articular church in Kežmarok was entered in 2008, and the historical centre and St. James’ Church in Levoča in 2009.

• 2002 Castle illuminations installed – start of night-time tours • 2006 Performance of Shakespeare’s “King Lear”.

• 2008 Castle visited by record number of nearly 187 000 tour ists, the most since 1990.

• 2009 20th September. Celebration of the 800th anniversary of the first written mention of Spiš.

THE SPIŠ CHAPTER Until 1776 this was the seat of the Spiš Provostship, which held authority over Spiš, Turňa, eastern Liptov, and the area of Lipany in north-western Šariš. Since that year it has been the seat of the Diocese of Spiš, which also administers the Liptov and Orava regions.

The Episcopal Cathedral of St. Martin is an exemplary blend of Romanesque and Gothic architectures.

• 1245 Romanesque basilica. The White Lion (Lat. leo albus, from the local travertine used) is the oldest Romanesque sculpture in Slovakia.

It can be seen inside the Cathedral, down by the north door.

• 1317 Coronation of Charles Robert of Anjou as king of Greater Hungary. This is the oldest known painting in Spiš, and it was restored in 2005. It can be seen above the north door.

Charles Robert was called “the Wise”. He was unusually active in his support for writers, and dubbed Francesco Petrarch a master-poet. He also favoured Giovanni Boccaccio and the painter Giotto di Bondone.

In his way this monarch was a precursor of the Renaissance.

The Coronation of King Charles Robert • 1462 – 1478 Gothic reconstruction – the high altar was adapted to Baroque style in 1689, then to neo-Gothic in 1888–89. In the centre there is the figure of the Virgin Mary with the Infant Jesus. To her right stands St. Martin, patron-saint of the Cathedral and the Spiš Diocese, and the figure to her left is St. Nicholas.

Precious tabular paintings: the upper panel of the left-hand altar wing shows the three saints of the Arpád dynasty – St. Ladislaus, St. Emericus and St. Stephen.

The right-hand upper panel shows St. Edward, the English king, St. Ludovicus, Bishop of Toulouse, and St. Louis of Anjou.

The lower panels of the altar wings show the first Christian women martyrs – St. Apollonia, St. Margaret, St. Dorothy, St. Catherine of Alexandria, St. Barbara and St. Ursula.

On the reverse sides of the wings there are eight paintings relating the Passion of Christ. Various artists were involved in creating these paintings, but their names are unknown.

• 1493 – 1499 Zápoľský family chapel, its altar probably created by Vít Stwosz.

• 1776 Spiš Diocese established.

• 1815 Priests’ seminary founded – closed in 1950, reopened in 1990.

• 1819 Teacher-training institute, the oldest in Greater Hungary – – closed in 1950.

• Later 19th C. Stained-glass windows installed, preserved to the pre sent day.

Today the Cathedral has three organs with late-Gothic housings.

The steeple belfry holds the bell named Urban, dating from 1426.

CATHEDRAL OPENING TIMES

Information centre

HISTORIA EST VERO TESTIS History is truly the witness of time, TEMPORUM, LUX VERITATIS, the light of truth, VITA MEMORIAE, the life of memory MAGISTRA VITAE, the teacher of life, NUNTIA VETUSTATIS... the messenger of antiquity...

Cicero (De Oratore II. 30)

The Zápoľský family chapel

THE SPIŠ CHAPTER

tel.: +421 904 021 788 E-mail: infocentrum@kapitula.sk www.kapitula.sk Spišská Kapitula 18 SK - 053 04 Spišské Podhradie

ŽEHRA • 1245 – 74 Building of the church – the sanctuary still has its original late Romanesque vault, eight consecrational crosses are visible today in the nave,and there are four still-covered crosses in the sanctuary.

• 13th C. South door – the Crucifixion of Christ, fresco known as Golgotha.

• Early 14th C. Sanctuary – lower part of the triumphal arch.

• Later 14th C. Two frescoes in frames on the north wall of the nave.

• Later 15th C. Three rows of frescoes on the north wall of the nave.

• 1644 – 45 Plague – all walls of the church are limewashed.

• 1663 and later Baroque altar to the Descent of the Holy Spirit, and the onion spire.

• 1870 Frescoes rediscovered (partially uncovered by 1877) – the frescoes were restored in 1939 – 40 and again in 1956 – 59, when the most precious of them was uncovered, ARBOR VITÆ (Tree of Life) from the 14th C. This can be seen on the north wall, covering almost 4 m2.

• 1985 Church declared national cultural monument.

• 1993 Church entered in UNESCO’s World Cultural Heritage List. (continues on next side)

The parish church of the Holy Spirit in Žehra With thanks to the following companies, whose financial support enabled this brochure to be created:

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© Jozef Soročin, 2011 © Translated by: Andrew Billingham © Graphics & Layout: Jozef Soročin Jr. © Map: František Miháľ © Photos: Peter Olekšák, E-mail: peter.oleksak@centrum.sk © Published by: Jozef Soročin VSJ, Martina Rázusa 1848/6, SK – 071 01 Michalovce, E-mail: sorocin23@gmail.com for the Karpatendeutscher Verein in der Slowakei, Lichardova 20, 040 01 Košice 1, tel.: +421 55 / 622 41 45, E-mail.: kdv@kdv.sk, www.kdv.sk © Printed by: Rotaprint, s. r. o., Barčianska 68, 040 17 Košice

Arbor Vitæ – Tree of Life fresco in Žehra church The Tree of Life is mentioned in the Bible in Genesis (3, 2), the Book of Lamentations (5, 16ff) and in the Revelation of St. John (2, 7) and (22, 2, also 14 and 19). In (22, 2) there is a link to the prophet Ezekiel (47,12), saying that the Trees of Life stand on either side of the “water of life”. The Apostle Paul describes the relationship of Ecclesia (Latin for church or society) and Synagoga in his Letter to the Romans (9 – – 11). The Tree of Life features in Christianity from the 5th C representing Christ’s cross.

Key to motifs Hand opening the gates of Paradise Hand blessing Ecclesia Hand stabbing Synagoga Donator (the Giver) Ecclesia sitting on the Tetramorph* Crucified Christ on the Tree of Life Synagoga sitting on a donkey Archangel Michael banishing Adam and Eve from Eden Adam’s skull Serpent winding itself around the Tree Fall of Adam and Eve Hand closing the gates of Purgatory

* Tetramorph (Greek: four-shaped) – a creature formed from the symbols of the four Evangelists, which represents the Gospels and may serve as a mount for Ecclesia to ride on.

The symbols of the Evangelists: Mark – a lion, Matthew – a human being or angel, Luke – a bull, John – an eagle

Opening times: weekdays: 10 am – 4 pm; Saturdays: 1 pm – 4 pm tel: 053 / 448 50 27; there are 93 steps leading up to the church.

To reach Žehra: towards Prešov on road no. 18 (E50), turn off right after Spišské Podhradie, then 4 km. Žehra is 3 km beyond the car-park for Spiš Castle.

MENS SANA IN CORPORE SANO A healthy mind in a healthy body HIKING TRAILS Yellow trail This takes in all of the UNESCO heritage sites, and is one of the most beautiful trails in Slovakia!

Sivá Brada – Spišský salaš – Pažica – Spiš Chapter (blue trail) – – Spišské Podhradie – Spiš Castle – Dreveník (rock paradise) – – Žehra church (distance: 14 km, time: 3 hours, difficulty: medium) Blue trail Spišské Podhradie – Spiš Castle (from car-park on asphalt road under motorway) – Bijacovce (from stately home on asphalt road) – Ordzovany – Podproč (junction) – Podproč (cottages) – Oľšavica (distance: 16 km, time: 4 hours, difficulty: medium) CYCLING TRAILS Blue trail Spišské Podhradie – Studenec – Pavľany (saddle) – junction (distance: 15.5 km, height gain: 375 m, time: 1 hr 20 mins, difficulty: medium) Green trail Spišské Podhradie – Studenec – Ordzovany – Bijacovce – – Pongrácovce (junction) – Vargas Motel (distance: 9 km, height gain: 145 m, time: 45 mins, difficulty: easy) Red trail Dúbrava – Žehra – Hodkovce (stately home) – Spiš Castle (junction) – Bijacovce – Paršivá (saddle) – continuation possible on blue trail to Podproč (distance: 16 km, height gain: 170 m, time: 1 hr 20 mins, difficulty: medium) Blue trail Žehra – Granč-Petrovce – Beharovce – Vargas Motel – – Korytné – Poľanovce (saddle, 770 m) – Vyšný Slavkov (junction) (distance: 14 km, height gain: 330 m, time: 1 hr 50 mins, difficulty: hard) Names in bold type on cycling trails indicate trail-changing points.

Tourist stamps – these are interesting souvenirs, but also confirmations of visits to attractive places.

For more details about tourist stamps go to www.turisticke-znamky.sk