x Josefine HJ
INDIVIDUAL NEGOTIATED PROJECT 2021
WERONIKA SIDOROWICZ L4 FASHION BUYING & RANGE PLANNING
The concept for this project is a sustainable collection of minimalist, timeless pieces designed in collaboration with Josefine H.J. I believe Cos will benefit from this as collaborations and more sustainability-centred collections is what the brand is currently missing. Their sustainability approach is currently rated pretty low with a score of 3 out of 5 (Good on You, 2021) and with consumers demanding more transparency in the production chain, this would be a move in a good direction for Cos.
TPECNOC Individual Negotiated Project 2021
This limited edition collection will consist primarily of Autumn/Winter workwear and knitwear pieces such as oversized shirts and blazers, cardigans and knitted trousers, as well as elevated basics to create a timeless range for the customers, allowing them to purchase items with longevity and sustainable fashion at their core; supercharged simplicity is in this season. Furthermore, throughout the past couple of years, consumers have grown more focused on the origin and ethics within their shopping habit and this trend is predicted to last for the foreseeable future (WGSN, 2020), and this range will encompass exactly that, whilst reinforcing the brand's mission statement of creating collections made to live beyond the "season". The main concept for this range is a 'fewer items/more looks' approach, with an emphasis on simple, classic silhouettes that will stand the test of time, in a new colour mix, with newness being necessary to stimulate spending in the current climate. (WGSN 2021). Recently Cos launched Resell, a platform for own-brand secondhand items, reinforcing their ambition to becoming fully circular and renewable, developing innovative ways to continue the brand's commitment to quality and longevity by re-imagining the life cycle of each pre-loved piece. (Charged Retail, 20220) The second aspect of my proposal includes a marketing strategy to promote the COS Resell app. After conducting a survey, I found that 0 out of 101 participants stated they have never used this resale service, and with the help of a customer incentive for using the platform and an edit curated by Instagram influencer Josefine HJ.
3
ABOUT JOsefine "the quintessential cool girl with timeless
fashion pieces."
Born in Denmark, Josefine Haaning Jensen is a 26 year old fashion blogger who gained a loyal following through posting her outfits during her travels. She has 1.1 million followers on Instagram, and is obsessed with minimalist fashion trends; her style is "the perfect balance between masculine and feminine". Having previously worked with brands like Chanel, Hérmes and NastyGal, Josefine is accustomed to sharing her style tips and selecting specific pieces for edits in collaboration with brands like the Italian luxury retailer, Luisa Via Roma. This makes her the perfect candidate for the promotional campaign for Cos's Resell platform, where Josefine will have the opportunity to share her favourites within the product offer, along with the launch of her collection in collaboration with Cos. "Josefine is the quintessential cool girl [bringing] you the latest drop of timeless fashion pieces" - (NastyGal 2020) Josefine's clean, minimalist style which consistently features classic luxury pieces and accessories fits perfectly with the vision for this range: beyond seasons, as well as the target audience of COS. Josefine has her own jewelry brand, selling gold and silver chains and earrings. As she posses a creative side in regards to designing jewellery, she is a suitable choice of influencer for COS as the brand favours collaborations with artists (according to their collab h
josefinehj
VIA INSTAGRAM
RANGE DEVELOPMENT
S U P E R C H A R G E D
key trends R E - S M A R T
The multifunctional products will provide versatility and adaptability that will be celebrated in the transition to postpandemic living and socialising, where the consumer will still favour loungewear as outerwear. In the current climate, sleepwear is estimated to be worth $40bn, up to 8% YoY (McKinsey, WGSN 2021); tailoring has been one of the most impacted retail category, due to global lockdown restrictions. Consequently, the idea of a 'smart look' has been redefined by simpler, laidback silhouettes and loose fits balance comfort with a more elegant approach, making them easier to wear and more size inclusive.
Following the decrease in tailored products' popularity along with the increase of relaxed styles, it is important that I convey the versatility of blazers and dresses. I will do this by using more comfortable, cozy textures like a teddy fur fleece, or peach-skin; whilst also ensuring the fabrics adhere to/elevate the brand's sustainability procedures. (More on fabrics and trims on p.20). This will appeal to the target customer of COS as they would have been affected by the remotework and lockdowns, as the rest of the nation and this trend would certainly be favoured by them as they return to postCovid lifestyles.
S I M P L I C I T Y
This trend champions timeless core designs with durable products made with comfort and "newness" in mind - highlighted by the uplifting colours that add a sense of originality to the simplicity. "As the home continues to transition to a hub for work, wellness and play, consumers will be taking a more curated approach to the products they surround themselves with." (WGSN 2021)
NEUTRALS | MONOCHROME
My range will work everyday pieces in luxe neutral tones for a premium aesthetic, encouraging head-to-toe monochromatic outfits in nude as well as a few bold statement colours. The matching sets will highlight a minimalist hybrid of smartcasual for a versatility of outfits for different occasions , while simultaneously making it easier for the consumer to style the individual pieces.
key Items
WGSN 2021
After reviewing WGSN analytics and A/W 21/22 catwalks, I've selected the key items that I will be using in my collection for COS. These items include: Wide leg trousers Knitted skirt set Oversized blazers Bralettes
K N I T T E D
S E T
@firstriteclothing 2021
Knitted sets received a great amount of appraisal on Edited and WGSN, encouraging buyers to 'Invest, which means it is considered a trustworthy item with back up to suggest it will be a highly commercial trend.
B R A L E T T E Knitted bralettes a key transitional item from summer into winter, inspired by the rise in popularity of loungewear. During A/W, this item can be worn alone, as a layering piece under blazers and jackets, or on top of lightwear pieces, demonstrating a surprising amount of versatility thanks to the Underwear-as-outerwear trend. (WGSN 2021)
W I D E
L E G
Ultra-wide fitting trousers are seeing a large increase with a share of 27% YoY hold of the mix. The fabric should focus on comfort without compromising on day-to-day wearability. (WGSN 2021)
Renovated smartwear being one of my key trends. The range will feature a collection of oversized blazers that can be easily adapted into casual streetwear looks. Consumers' preferences have adapted so a perfect balance of comfort and professionalism is something that is likely to stay even after the ease of lockdown. The highlighted trends have been worn on celebrities, fashion bloggers and the streets of fashion weeks, and the versatility of these trends is sure to make this range highly commercial.
street style 2
Weronika Sidorowicz
product development
MISMATCHED HOOP EARRINGS
As it's already an item sold by COS, I thought it would be interesting to adapt the mismatched pearl hoop earrings and launch a new edition. Having looked on WGSN reports about AW22/23 jewellery, I decided to use turquoise (a healing stone) and a sculpted speckled hoop on the other side. The design features a daisy engraving as it is Josefine's birth flower, adding a more personal touch to the collection as she has her own jewellery line..
BELTED SHEARLING TRIM JACKET According to WGSN, plush luxe materials and relaxed tailored coats are key for the outerwear category in Autumn 2022, which is why I decided to combine the two and create a belted robe jacket, with faux shearling trim. This comfort-driven texture will add tactility and warmth to the jacket, as well as allowing the consumer to style it up or down thanks to the blur of indoor-outdoor end use.
+
=
RANge plan
HIGH-WAISTED WIDE-LEG TROUSERS Ref: 10099900099 Price: £69 Fibre Composition: 100% EcoVera COO: Portugal
RIB KNIT BRALETTE Ref: 10099900066 Price: £39 Fibre Composition: 43% Viscose (EcoVero), 47% Merino wool COO: Romania
KNITTED MIDI SKIRT Ref: 10099900077 Price: £55 Fibre Composition: 100% Recycled Wool COO: Romania
WIDE-LEG JOGGERS Ref: 10099900088 Price: £49 Fibre Composition: 100% Organic Cotton COO: Portugal
RANge plan
Button Wrap Shirt Ref: 10099900022 Price: £69 Fibre Composition: 100% EcoVero COO: Romania
A-Symmetrical Roll Neck Jumper Ref: 10099900011 Price: £59 Fibre Composition: 100% Merino Wool COO: England
Oversized Double Breated Blazer Ref: 10099900033 Price: £150 Fibre Composition: 54% Polyester 46% Wool, Lining: 100% EcoVero COO: Turkey
CROPPED ROLL NECK JUMPER Ref: 10099900055 Price: £59 Fibre Composition: 100% Recycled Wool COO: England
RANge plan REVERSIBLE UTILITY SHIRT Ref: 100999003 Price: £55 Fibre Composition: 100% Organic Cotton COO: England
Belted Shearling Trim Jacket Ref: 10099900044 Price: £120 Fibre Composition: Fur Trims & Outer Layer 100% Recycled Polyester / Lining 100% EcoVero COO: Portugal
MISMATCHED TURQUOISE DAISY EARRINGS Ref: 10099900222 Price: £29 Fibre Composition: 43% Viscose, 30% Polyamide, 26% Merino wool COO: Portugal
SATIN HALTER-BACK SLIP DRESS Ref: 10099900100 Price: £79 Fibre Composition: 100% Recycled Polyester COO: Turkey
SLOUCH MID-CALF BOOTS Ref: 1009990555 Price: £120 Fibre Composition: 100% Vegan Leather 100% Recycled Polyester COO: Portugal
OUTFIT BUILDING
£114
£228
£238
£228
£248
£118
My range will allow customers to easily create outfits through the use of coordinating in a variety of different styles and colours. The ASP for an outfit consisting of 3 items will be £238, and matching sets will average at £116.
space layout
In order to determine how I should arrange my collection, I visited two COS stores in London. Their current range is layered using tone-on-tone neutrals and blacks, combined with colour-blocking garments in statement colour like pink and green. I will do the same for my collection, contrasting soft and hard materials to create a playful simplicity that is visually pleasing to the eye. (WGSN 2021)
Garment journey
Concept
Logistics
B Y
A sustainable core-focused range manufacted with recycled and eco-friendly materials.
Supplier
F A C T O R Y
KPIs
R O A D
Quality
| sustainability | profitability
As my garments are sourced from a mix of countries around Europe, travelling by truck is a suitable option as it provides short travel time and less environmental impacts. The freight cost from Portugal is 2%, in comparison to farther countries like China with 12% duty tax and 4% freight.
D I R E C T
PROS Friendly Factories has a large network of textile factories in Portugal - narrow supply base with more breadth Problems can be solved quickly with short lead time Lower costs - saving money due to no agent fees CONS Language barriers Costs - Dealing directly with the manufacturer needs significant spend levels in order to qualify as a customer.
B E L T E D
nigirO fo yrtnuoC
S H E A R L I N G J A C K E T
T R I M
I have chosen Portugal as a primary sourcing country for my range as it is competitively prices, whilst offering high quality products with quick turnaround. Furthermore, nearshoring is key for this range as sourcing closer to UK allows for a smaller carbon footprint and lower shipping rates. Leather is Portugal's specialty and even though the jacket will be faux leather, it will be equally high quality due to expertise and skill in that specific area.
£120 Cost price £33 RRP
%
profit margin 67
Payment - 50% payment before production, 50% before shipment Production Lead Time for recycled, organic, or specific fabrics : 8-10 weeks (Friendly Factories, 2021)
PROS Close to UK = lower shipment costs and less CO2 emissions Same time zone as UK, allowing for easier communication Highly skilled workers with the ability to produce high quality garments for a competitive price Politically and socially stable Can source all types of fabrics, from organic, recycled and up-cycled. (FriendlyFactories, 2021) Quick turnaround and lead times; able to make last minute changes CONS Possible language barrier Brexit could affect customs and increase import costs Materials used often come from Asia, for example cotton and silk from India = extra shipping (
P E S T
Portugal has stable and secure political grounds and has had good trade relations with UK since the Middle Ages. Labour/living costs are competitive in Portugal, helping minimise the pound decline effect following Brexit. Portugal is the fourth most peaceful country in the world, which decreases the chances of possible delays due to strikes etc. Portugal has a good technological stance, having been at the forefront of 3G/4G, and the country has also huge advancements in navigation throughout history. 75.3% of the population has access to internet, allowing for easier international communication. (World Bank, 2019)
critical path /belted shearling trim jacket
Week 1 ORDER CONFIRMATION. LAB DIPS SENT 6/07/2022
Week 3
Week 2
SECOND FIT + TRIMS APPROVED 21/07/2022
FIRST FIT COMMENTS. 13/07/2022
Week 8 Week 10 ARRIVE AT DC. 1/9/2022
PRODUCTION SAMPLES APPROVED. SHIPPED TO UK WAREHOUSE BY TRUCK. 20/08/2022
**I HAVE ALLOWED AN EXTRA 2 WEEKS TO ALLOW FOR DELAYS
Week 4
Week 5
ACCESSORIES DYED TO MATCH AND APPROVED/REJECTED 28/07/2022
TRIM CARDS AND SEALING SAMPLES RECEIVED. 4/08/2022
Week 7 FIRST PRODUCTION SAMPLES RECEIVED. 13/08/2022
Week 6 FABRIC CUT, TRIMS AND BULK TEST SENT AND APPROVED. PRODUCTION BEGINS. 11/08/2022
ygetartS gnitekram
Instagram will be my primary mode of marketing - 68% of millennials admit to being strongly influenced by social media posts. (Salesfloor, 2021) Advertising the range on IG will mean it reaches an optimum number of consumers that are within COS' target audience. COS already uses the Instagram TV and Reels features to market their products and new collections. During the availability of the COS x Josefine H.J collection, multiple posts will be broadcasted on the brand's Instagram for the 12 week period, and also before the launch in order to create excitement. Likewise, Josefine will also post Instagram content of the collection with COS to promote it to her followers
"68 percent of Millennials admit to being strongly influenced by social media posts - SOURCE
"
ygetartS gnitekram
/josefine's favourites THE JOSEFINE EDIT
In collaboration with Josefine H.J are celebrating supercharged simplicity through the beauty of monochromatic garments that serve with timelessness and circularity. Sustainably sourced - each style is made from recycled or organic materials, manufactured locally in Europe. Charity proceeds - 5% of all sales will be donated to Canopy, an organisation that works with the forest industry’s biggest customers and their suppliers to develop business solutions that protect these last frontier forests.
JOSEFINE'S RESELL FAVOURITES
To promote the Resell platform along with the collection, Josefine will curate a favourites edit from the current product offer on the Resell website. This will contain five products across different price points and categories, encouraging the viewer to visit the Resell website and browse the products. As well as. this, there will be a blog post featured on COS's project page on their website, where customers could read the article and possibly even share it to their following. Josefine has previously worked with a retailer showcasing her favourites from their product offer so she has experience in this field and her opinion is valued by her followers and style inspiration seekers. Furthermore, Almost 80 percent of millennials use their phones to research prices while 68.9% use their phones to read reviews. The statistics are a good indicator to showing just how important positive word-of-mouth is to millennials' purchasing habits.
ygetartS gnitekram
/e-commerce With the majority of my range being sold online. good and easy-to-navigate site layout is vital to driving sales. According to SImilarWeb (2021), COS has a bounce rate of only 34.11% and average visit duration is under five minutes. Therefore, my plan is to catch the customer's attention as soon as they enter the website with a dynamic video trailer of the collection, with clear buttons inviting the visitor to shop the womenswear items.
THE JOSEFINE EDIT
Traffic Analysis to Cosstores.com | SimilarWeb
NEW ARRIVALS
/newsletter The range will also be promoted via direct marketing sent out to subscribed customers. According to a recent study conducted by Campaign Monitor and McKinsey that Gen Y consumers are six times more likely to get a click-through from an email campaign than you are from a tweet, and that email is 40 times more effective at acquiring new customers than Facebook and Twitter. (Fromm, 2017). To further increase engagement, e-mails sent to subscribers will hold a 15% discount code.
launch plan The range will launch on September 10th at Midnight, giving customers early access to purchase the products online before stores open in the morning. Newsletter subscribers will get 48 hour early access to the collection.
/packaging
A few weeks leading up to the release, there will be posts of Josefine and other models wearing the collection in order to increase hype around the range, and will continue being promoted for the availability period.
/charity 5% of my sales will be donated to Canopy, a charity that works with the forest industry’s biggest customers and their suppliers to develop business solutions that protect these last frontier forests”. (Fashion Revolution, 2021) I’ve chosen this charity as it supports the cause that COS and my new range for them stands for. According to Jeff Fromm, millennials are more receptive to cause marketing than previous generations and are more likely to buy items associated with a cause, (Forbes, 2017) Firthermore, millennial consumers are 50% more likely to buy from a brand that supports a cause.
The packaging for my range will be made out of compostable paper to reduce the use of plastic. 26% of all plastic made is used for packaging, 72% of which is thrown away, according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's estimation. This includes polybags used for transporting the garments from supplier to retailer which is why this step will be eliminated and if not possible for smaller/delicate items, recycled plastic will be used.